Ink Magazine - April 2019

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April 2019

Complimentary

publicationsÂŽ

www.inkct.com

Vol 15 Issue 161 2019

A guide to finer living in Connecticut & abroad.


SLEEP + SCIENCE Innovative cures for sleep apnea and other disorders. The Middlesex Health Sleep Disorders Center was the rst in the state to deliver some of today’s most groundbreaking treatments, including the revolutionary Inspire® Therapy and DaVinci® Robotic Surgery for sleep apnea. If you or someone you love is suffering with a sleep disorder, our experts will take the time to craft a personalized, scienti c approach to get you the results—and the night’s sleep—you’ve been dreaming of. It all adds up to the smarter choice for sleep. MiddlesexHealth.org/sleep


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www.inkct.com

Features

APRIL 2019

Dough on Main It’s All From Scratch

pg. 10

Cindy Stevens Fine Art Mastering a Balancing Act.

pg. 18

Columns, Reviews, Events

ISSUE CONTENTS

Cardinal Points Not Narcissus, Great Egret, St. Augustine, Florida Crusty Old Diver Fishing On The Dock of The Bay Music Mirth & Mojo American Vinyl All Star Band The Cheesemonger National Fondue Day On the Vine Germany, another one of Europe’s great wine producing countries Life on Sugar Spring-ing Ahead Food Thoughts from Italy Pasta Fresca April Events Upcoming Events in Connecticut

pg. 24 pg. 38 pg. 50 pg. 72 pg. 74 pg. 76 pg. 78 pg. 80

INK is much more than a magazine. It is an illustration of Connecticut life. A drive down winding roads past innocent looking gravel driveways.

The Photography of Beebe & Clegg

There are big things happening at the other end of those driveways. Our

Livin’ Large On and Off the Tracks

Ingenuity and purposeful living abounds. You really never know who

pg. 30

commerce intertwine. Whether you call Connecticut home, or you’ve

state is filled with the most amazing people doing incredible things. you are talking to. Artisanship is second nature here; art, culture, and come to“get away from it all” one thing is for certain. You know what you love about being here. Our devotion is and always has been to capture the “Connecticut experience” one story at a time.

Traveler Food and Books

“Your neighbor just designed a new postage stamp and the gentleman down

“Lunch with Balwin, with a Book by King.”

the street discovered Machu Pichu.” For over a decade, Ink Publications has

pg. 42

more than ever, we take great pride in telling these stories.

documented Connecticut residents and life here in the Nutmeg state. Today

from all of us at Ink On the Cover: Photo by Lucius Beebe Collection of the Ca. State Railroad Museum, BC3274

INK staff The Havemeyers of Greenwich Leaving and Impression on Art in America

pg. 54

Contributors:

Advertising:

Jeffery Lilly- originator/founder/publisher

Contact us to receive our media kit complete with detailed advertising information including ad rates, demographics, and distribution in your area.

Stephanie Sittnick - founder/publisher/sales design/account receivables Caryn B. Davis- editorial Susan Cornell - editorial Alison Kaufman - editorial/photos Mark Seth Lender - editorial/photos

10 Islands, 13 Days Adventure on a Freighter in French Polynesia

Rona Mann - editorial Tom Soboleski - editorial/photos Anne Semmes - editorial John Tolmie - editorial/photos

Please direct your advertising inquiries and questions to: Stephanie Sittnick - Director of Advertising advertising@ink-pub.com - 860-227-8199 Cheryl Powell - Greater Connecticut cheryl@ink-pub.com - 860-608-5749 Rona Mann - Greater Connecticut six07co@att.net - 401-539-7762 Jacki Hornish - Litchfield jacki@inkct - 860-488-0393

pg. 64 Every issue is printed using 100% Soy based ink.

We encourage the public to submit stories, poems, photography, essays, and all things creative. If you know of a person or place of interest, please submit your ideas to: submissions@ink-pub.com We will do our best to put your ideas in INK.

All content of INK Publications including but not limited to text, photos, graphics and layout are copyrighted by INK Publishing, LLC. Reproductions without the permission of the publisher is prohibited. Ink Publishing, LLC is not responsible for images or graphics submitted by advertisers which are not copyrighted or released for use in this publication.

INK PUBLISHING, LLC 71 Maple Avenue, Old Saybrook, CT 06475 email: submissions@ink-pub.com www.inkct.com


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† Air valued up to $1,500 per person including air taxes and fees. * Offers apply to new, individual bookings made March 12 to June 5, 2019, for select Galapagos cruises and cruise packages aboard Celebrity Flora departing May 26 to December 31, 2019. Cruise Fare Savings offer: Galapagos cruise packages of 10 or 11 nights include half off the second guest’s cruise fare with the purchase of the first guest’s cruise fare at full price. Round-Trip Air offer: Galapagos cruise packages of 10, 11, or 16 nights receive round-trip air departing from US or Canadian gateways, booked via Flights by Celebrity. Guests with independent air arrangements may choose a $1,000 per person cruise fare savings instead of air via Flights by Celebrity. Offer applies to the first two guests in a stateroom, is subject to availability and change; is capacity controlled, nontransferable, and not combinable with any other offer; and may be withdrawn at any time without notice. Air tickets may be purchased on a nonrefundable or refundable basis and are each subject to the cancellation terms of the applicable airlines and Flights by Celebrity. Offers are available to residents of the United States and Canada. Refer to Cruise Ticket Contract for additional terms and conditions. Celebrity reserves the right to correct any errors, inaccuracies, or omissions, and to change or update fares, fees, and surcharges at any time without prior notice. ©2019 Celebrity Cruises Inc. Ships’ registry: Ecuador.



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It’s All From Scratch at Dough on Main by Rona Mann / Photos by Jeffery Lilly / Food photos courtesy Dough

“Cooking is all about people. Food is maybe the only universal thing that really has the power to bring everyone together.”

...Guy Fieri

There is nothing, absolutely nothing, that brings people together more than enjoying good food and free-flowing conversation with the best of friends. It’s a dance really, one that is choreographed by the cook, the host, or the group itself, for food is an activity meant to be appreciated as well as consumed. Sharing a meal is not something you should wolf down in a hurry while looking at texts on your phone, catching up on the latest video games, or grab while running out the door to another activity.

Good food should be savored and appreciated for exactly what it is and the work that has gone into it, and enjoyed with friends. No one knows that more than Francis Brooke-Smith, he the chef, proprietor, and “choreographer” of the glorious dance that is performed daily at Dough On Main in the charming little river town of Deep River.

just another takeout place; it’s an exceptional shop where made from scratch food is revered and lovingly prepared each day. Francis is quick to point out that although they serve a limited breakfast menu of wraps and such that many locals have made their daily

For more than six years now, Brooke-Smith, along with his business and life partner, Joan Fox, and a passionately devoted staff of food professionals, have been bringing the best madeon-premises pasta, sauces, desserts and pastries, soups, Jura DellaCamera, Megan Ouellette, Francis Brooke-Smith, Joan Fox sandwiches, salads, prepared foods, and outstanding catering to their growing habit and others stop by for a quick sandwich list of devotees. They come from the surrounding at lunch, “We are not a restaurant. We are a river towns, the coastal communities, and from pasta shop with prepared foods.” all over the state because Dough on Main is not


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And what a shop it is.“We have an open canvas,” the chef states proudly. And upon that canvas you might, on any given day, find pasta dough, pizza dough, a variety of pre-made sauces, soups, quiche, crab cakes, meatballs, cheeses, salads, dessert bars, their famous scones, cakes, and cookies, and a large variety of prepared foods for both vegetarian as well as vegan taste buds. “We run the gamut,” adds Joan Fox, “from something as simple and delicious as mac and cheese, to the finer items. Our seafood chowder is to die for and has a real following.” One wonders then, how do the faithful find out when the chowder’s bubbling, or about any other Dough on Main favorites or daily specials? “Ask not what you can do for your country, ask what’s for lunch!” ...Orson Welles Dough on Main’s customers and the foodie faithful know to frequently check the store’s

website or Facebook page as Joan is religious about posting daily specials, lunch specials generally featuring two soups and two sandwiches, and their Dough to Go pasta dish. Artisan breads are baked daily by their neighbor down the block, the well loved “Albert’s Bakery,” which really makes Dough on Main’s sandwiches pop. “In short,” says Fox, “we offer good food, well prepared all the time.” Those who have lived in the area for years know that Dough on Brussel Spoons Main’s location has always been synonymous with pasta, as Pasta Unlimited was located in the same spot for 20 years before Francis, who trained at The Ritz in London and Paris, came to Connecticut and took over the space. Creating pasta, according to Brook-Smith, represents a balance between the technical and the artistic. His pasta machine – the same one used for years by Pasta Unlimited – sits in the store’s front window and is operated by a professional who knows exactly how to fashion the dough for each variety they sell. “The fillings have to be

Patty Pans

Assorted fresh pasta

just right as well,” Francis says. “You can’t just throw any kind of filling in a ravioli, it takes time and know-how.” This kind of hands-on loving care with all the food they create is an enviable source of pride to both him and Fox, so when Francis speaks of an open canvas, he is not exaggerating, food is his art. Perhaps of greatest importance to both of them and the integrity of Dough on Main is their commitment to custom design whatever the customer wants and needs. “YOU decide what you get here,” Joan says. “She may want just a small piece of salmon for dinner, while he wants meat and potatoes. We can do that. People love our potatoes and often ask if they have to buy a specific quantity. Not at all, you can have just four pieces, if that’s all you want.”

Fritatta w/cheese


13 “I got to thinking about all those women on the Titanic who passed up dessert.” ...Erma Bombeck No need for you to pass up dessert any day of the week or at your next party or meeting. Dough on Main is one-stop shopping and can provide you with cookie trays, platters of pastries, even an occasion cake or two, whether it’s for a house party, a family get-together, or a large party. All these items are available on their catering menu as well; and if you don’t see something you want, just ask.

More and more, people are realizing that Dough on Main is not just a place for a sandwich or to take home prepared foods...it’s a full service catering business that can provide whatever is needed for any event. “We cater parties, luncheons, showers, business events, buffets, even weddings. Not only can we remove the stress you might have over what to serve and when, but we can take care of any rentals you might need, every detail, and all Tomato salad staffing, so we can handle as large a celebration or event as you want to arrange. Think of us as full-service caterers.

Yes, Dough on Main is not just a store. It’s a place where food is taken seriously, where they filet their own fish, make all their own stocks, and nearly every item on the menu and in the case is made fresh from scratch. Easter’s coming, along with Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, Graduations, and all those parties. Dough on Main can provide your entire Easter ham dinner from appetizers to dessert, or perhaps just roast a turkey while you make the sides...or vice-versa! They are open Monday through Saturday, although in summer and near the holidays they add Sunday hours. Once again, make sure you check their website often.

enjoying the experience of eating fresh, good tasting food with friends. “They consistently tell us,” says Joan, “that the price we charge is so reasonable for the level of quality we provide. That’s what we’re about.” “I’m not a chef, but I’m passionate about food – the tradition of it, the cooking, and the sharing.” ..Zac Posen, fashion designer Dough On Main, 159 Main Street, Deep River (860) 322-4590 www.doughonmain.com

Dough on Main is all about passion...the passion Francis has for creating food, the passion Joan has for pleasing customers, and the passion their customers have when

Salmon - Cucumber scales

Filet Mignon - Crostini


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Old Saybrook Antiques Center

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Cindy Stevens in her gallery


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Mastering a Balancing Act:

Cindy Stevens Fine Art by RONA MANN / Photos by Stephanie Sittnick “I’m overwhelmed,” the artist begins, leaning forward in her chair with a smile, “but it’s a happy problem.”

what she wants to be doing, surrounded by the colors, the rhythms, the pulse, and the people she loves.

Looking at Cindy Stevens - fine artist, teacher, gallery owner, and lover of life, one sees absolutely no signs of someone being overwhelmed. Instead, one sees a very fulfilled woman with a schedule that would overflow any appointment book or smartphone; yet this is most definitely not a real problem. Stevens simply thrives on the activity because she’s at a place in her life where she is doing exactly

Stevens has always had artistry in her genes as her mother was a pen and ink artist and both her siblings are professional painters as well. For more than a quarter century, Cindy has operated a frame gallery out of her home and subsequently opened Cindy Stevens Fine Art right in downtown Clinton five years ago. While she is a born Nutmegger and loves its coasts, she is constantly drawn to Monhegan Island, a beautiful plantation with less than one square mile of land, just 12 miles off the coast of Boothbay Harbor, Maine. By the mid-19th century, Monhegan beckoned painters, quickly earning a solid reputation as

an art colony. Artists were drawn to the tiny island for its cliffs stark against the landscape, bold shoreline, and endless sea views. Additionally, visitors from the New York


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School of Art, Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts, and other prestigeous institutions flocked to Boothbay or Port Clyde to board the ferry for the short ride out to the remote venue. Soon, Cindy Stevens found herself among them, and thus Monhegan became a place she would return to twice a year for inspiration, relaxation, and continuation. “I recharge out there.” Since opening the doors of her own gallery, Stevens has quickly garnered an enviable reputation as her business is comprised of her own art, painting parties, and art activities crafted for, and centered on kids. “It’s a balancing act,” Cindy says with a smile, “but one I love.” The walls of the intimate gallery are filled with Stevens’ paintings, many of them vistas and memories of Monhegan, others recognizable by those who live in Clinton. She wishes she had more time to paint for

herself, but she’s not complaining about the way her gallery, classes, and events have taken off. “Still, my favorite thing to do is to just lock the door, put on music real loud, and paint, and forget all about time. But then I realize I have to go home and make my husband’s dinner,” she laughs. Cindy Stevens Fine Art painting classes and parties have really taken off, as she carefully custom designs each event, which can be held right at her gallery or at a location chosen by the host. In addition, she provides the fun at showers (so much better than those silly games of years past), can put an inter-

esting spin on a Girls Night Out, or recently has been in demand for corporate events as a thank you or team-building exercise. Once a month you will find Cindy Stevens at the nearby Chips Pub for Positive Paint Night, an art experience geared for fun. “You don’t need to have any experience,” Cindy says. “You come, order food and drink if you wish, and we paint. I walk around and give advice and suggestions, but it’s meant to be just a lot of fun with art, good food and drink, and other like-minded people. I like to see


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people excited about art, it’s what drives me.” Much in demand are Cindy Stevens’ Art Camps for Kids, held during July and August. Each session is a week long, geared for children ages 4 to 13, and encompassing five days of fun, learning, and growing. They are so popular that Stevens says, “I am almost full for this summer, so if you have interest, call me.” Art classes for kids are also held every week throughout most of the year and are wildly popular. All information regarding dates, times, and how to sign up may be found on Cindy’s website. Stevens has a special knack with children since she’s the proud grandmother of six, yet she

still knows how to work with adults who are a bit reticent about being able to create their own art. “Sometimes in my classes people are so into their own heads that I have to walk them off the cliff,” she laughs. “What you tell yourself is what you believe,” Stevens says. “I try to teach people to get out of their own heads, to not try to be perfect. Perfect is all in your head anyway, there really is no perfect.” Having stated her case, Cindy Stevens now leans back in her chair and gazes at the paintings that adorn the walls, most of the work her own, but many created by her students, both young and old, as well as guest artists. “I just want to give people a positive experience with

art so they want to do it again. When you come here, expect to have a good time.” Then the slightly “overwhelmed” artist gets ready to lock her door, turn the music up loud, and slip into the reverie that is her world when she paints. Perhaps today it might be the Monhegan lighthouse, sunset over the shore in Clinton, or a faraway vista that has only existed in her own head until now. One thing is certain, however. When Cindy Stevens finally sits down at her easel, she will be relaxed, recharged, and in her own world...a world she has known since she was a child, a world she longs to share with others, a world she both needs and respects. And when that happens, Cindy’s husband might just have to order out dinner tonight. Cindy Stevens Fine Art is located at 30 East Main Street (Rt.1) right in the heart of downtown Clinton. www.cindystevensfineart.com (860) 304-1666


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arrived, and found a place of standing. The thin plumes descending at his tail are falling water, the color of his face is emeralds of high degree, his bill is electrum. Canary yellow diamonds are his eyes. He is radiance. He is the glow that displays upon the sunrise sky.

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Not Narcissus

Great Egret, St. Augustine, Florida Photos and editorial © Mark Seth Lender In the leafless somnambulance of winter the tree sways in the wind, and has not recognized that by all the other purposes of Life it is already spring. The warmth that should be early April has arrived a month too soon. The Order of disorder rules. White as the snow that never falls here, white as the clouds that pillow on the sky, white as sequins sewn to the wedding suit of some mysterious groom, now Great Egret has

Great Egret bows, the long neck reaches down, the long bill taps sharply on the branches below the branch whereon he stands (to show, how he will find substance for the nest; how he will strike the water to capture fish). He stretches towards the blue above him (to show, the way he will defend eggs, then young, and challenge all intruders and unwanted suitors). He strops the feathers and the long decorating quills vibrating along his sides (to show, by his perfection how fit he is for the tasks he promises to perform). He sways side to side (a demonstration that his balance is unshakable). He looks straight and long (taking the parallax view of any danger lurking near or far).

And just in case you think all this is rote, that he has no idea what it’s all about, and who it’s all for? When the dance is done, like any single dancing son alone at a high school prom, he looks all around as casually as possible so that you’d hardly notice it – a glance here, a glance there – in hope that at the very least just one of the girls was watching! .


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Field Note:

where the hundreds of yards of separation of my home view becomes only tens of feet.

We tend to assume that mating and courtship displays in birds, in part because they are so elaborate, must be automatic, and that the birds have little if any awareness of why exactly they do what they do. But this is a lazy assumption. Based primarily on preconception; though perhaps more than anything on a lack of first-hand observation, because of how difficult it is for most of us to find the place, and the time, to have a really good look. In my own yard on the Connecticut shore, facing the barrier islands of Long Island Sound, I have a clear view of a great egret rookery. But that view is distant. In many years I am privileged to see the first wave of great egrets arrive, already in their wedding finery. I watch them gather high in the yet leafless trees and then descend to the deeper safety of the grove for the night. But for the details, even from this wonderful vantage point, I have to head south,

That place is in St. Augustine Florida where (proximity notwithstanding) different times of year reveal different

behaviors. Early spring, before there are eggs much less young, all the birds are in full decorative plumage and among those not yet in pairs, a palpable anxiety rules. The story told here is not based on a singular event in the idiosyncratic mating display of one particular great egret. There were a number of males in breeding plumage and this set of behaviors was common to almost all of them. The glances were furtive, sent in different directions, and always at the conclusion of the display. As far as I could tell, at least on the several days I was there to see it, the boys were going to be dancing alone. No one was paying attention. These lonely egrets, late to the party, were probably the younger ones. Perhaps in the next year of their maturity Nature will be more kind. Mark Seth Lender is a producer for wildlife content at Living on Earth ( LOE.org ), the only program on US Public Radio exclusively dedicated to wildlife and environmental reporting.


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Livin’ Large On and Off the Tracks... The photography of Beebe and Clegg By Caryn B. Davis

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ucius Morris Beebe was a renowned with Holiday and Playboy. He photographer, socialite, railroad historian, penned many articles for numerand a prominent journalist born in 1902 to a ous publications on subjects wealthy Boston family. He lived life large in a ranging from men’s fashion, to decadent, hedonistic manner, happily over trans-Atlantic travel aboard the indulging whenever possible in fine food, Cunard Line, to more somber cigars, and liquor. But even if Beebe was often topics like opposing the Photo by Charles Clegg, San Luis Valley Southern Railway Jaroso, Colorado. the last person to leave El Morocco or The Vietnam War. Collection of the California State Railroad Museum, BC1404 Stork Club which he frequented, he was serious about his profession Beebe was a true dandy. In 1938 Beebe published High Iron: A Book of and was extremely His wardrobe was as outra- Trains. The idea for the book was not his. prolific. He had his geous as his lifestyle. He Rather, it was suggested by his drinking own column in The adorned himself in baroque cohort, Elizabeth Haskell, a senior editor at New York Heraldattire consisting of doeskin Appleton-Century, who published six of Tribune, read each gloves, custom suits, mink Beebe’s books. Beebe wrote the copy but also morning by 1.5 millined overcoats, top hats, took many of the photographs using a 4x5 lion New Yorkers, and walking canes, and gold Graflex camera. The book was an instant by today’s standards watch chains. His ensemble success. It was the first of its kind, bringing the was an influencer of earned him the January 16, art of the train, railroads, and train travel to style and taste. He Photo by Lucius Beebe California Collection of David P. 1939 cover of Life magazine mainstream America. It reached an audience also wrote a column Morgan Library, Kalmbach Publishing Company and the garnered the atten- beyond just train hobbyists and aficionados. for Gourmet about all tion of fellow columnist And of course moving within all the right social the best dining hot spots and fashionable Walter Winchell who christened him "Luscious circles and being a celebrity writer of sorts certainly did not hinder sales. restaurants of the day, which he shared Lucius,” a name now immortalized in history.

Above: Lucius Beebe (left) and Charles Clegg pose along the tracks of the Southern Pacific narrow gauge in the Owens Valley of California. Clegg made the photo using a self-timer and tripod. Collection of the California State Railroad Museum, BC3411. Facing Page: Charles Clegg, Tremont and Gulf Railroad, Collection of the California State Railroad Museum, BC0612.


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“He had already published several books on New York society, so he had a built-in audience and had a good publisher,” said J. David Conrad, Director / Curator of the Oliver Jensen Gallery at the Essex Steam Train & Riverboat in Essex, Connecticut. While at a party in Washington, D.C at the home of Evalyn Walsh McLean, a mining heiress who owned the Hope Diamond, Beebe met Charles M. Clegg Jr. who became his lover and business partner. True to his flamboyant nature, Beebe did not hide his homosexuality, but rather boldly and bravely lived openly at a time when social mores dictated otherwise. “Beebe seemed to be "obvious" about his lifestyle during a time when being gay and having gay relationships wasn't discussed and

were taboo,” said Kevin Dodd, President and CEO of Essex Steam Train & Riverboat. “Their position in society ensured no one said anything, at least not to their faces,” adds Conrad. Clegg was already a photographer, and the pair started taking photographs together traveling across the country. Beebe, with his large format camera, was better at capturing that one iconic shot of a steam locomotive in all its majestic glory barreling down the tracks at 90 miles per hour. Clegg, on the other hand, could take many photos in succession with his smaller Kodak medalist, without having to set up, change the film after one exposure, or use a tripod. He concentrated on recording railroad stations and train cars. After the publication of several books, Beebe and Clegg were regarded as experts on the subject. “The early books were just photographic albums with captions. Lucius

was a very florid writer, and the captions were heavily embellished and often inaccurate. He had a reputation for that, but it was well outweighed by the quality of the photographs,” said Conrad. “Later they both wrote the books, but Lucius was the primary writer, and his prose is purple as they say. He took a lot of liberties with the facts, changing things to suit his narrative. Nonetheless, they were well received and sold well.” Beebe and Clegg rode on nearly every railroad as they traversed the country multiple times, but eventually they purchased their own private Pullman train cars and used those for both business and pleasure with frequent trips to Miami, New York City, Chicago, New Orleans, and Denver, always with Beebe’s 185-pound St. Bernard dog onboard. Robert

Top: Charles Clegg Denver & Rio Grande Western Railroad, West of Denver, a double-headed passenger train climbs toward Tunnel 1. Collection of the California State Railroad Museum, BC3791. Middle right hand photo: Lucius Beebe, Southern Pacific freight train extra 5042, with a rear helper locomotive to attack southern California’s Beaumont Hill. Collection of the California State Railroad Museum, BC3274. Bottom: Charles Clegg, This northbound Louisville & Nashville (L&N) freight train enters Gadsden, Alabama, where it runs on a city street. Collection of the California State Railroad Museum, BC2677


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Above: Charles Clegg, Georgia and Florida Railroad, Swainsboro, Georgia. Black and white passengers leave from separate ends of a segregated Jim Crow car. Collection of the California State Railroad Museum, BC0883. Below: Charles Clegg, Denver & Rio Grande Western Railroad. Durango, Colorado roundhouse, “the hub of narrow gauge world in the United States,” introduces “Narrow Gauge Kingdom,” an expansive section of Mixed Train Daily.


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Above: Lucius Beebe, Union Pacific Railroad Ogden, Utah. An outstanding example, “Wings of the Morning,” shows the streamliner, City of San Francisco, heading east from East Riverdale Yard in Ogden, Utah, in 1939. Collection of the California State Railroad Museum, BC0807. Below: Lucius Beebe, Illinois Central Railroad Union Station, St. Louis, Missouri. Illinois Central’s Green Diamond, which served the Chicago-St. Louis market, pauses on the tracks at St. Louis Union Station. Collection of the California State Railroad Museum, BC2459


historical and a cultural era when train travel met its ultimate demise as automobiles and airplanes became the preferred mode of transport. After Beebe’s death in 1966 and Clegg’s death in 1979, Clegg’s niece donated all of their photographs and negatives to the California State Railroad Museum (CSRM) in Sacramento. In conjunction with the Center for Railroad Photography & Art located in Madison, Wisconsin, the two institutions created a traveling photographic exhibition entitled “Beebe and Clegg, Their Enduring Photographic Legacy”. It includes some never before seen prints by the public and will be on display at the Oliver Jensen Gallery at the Essex Steam Train from May 10, 2019 through

Hanley, a friend and a Hollywood set designer, opulently decorated the Gold Coast and the Virginia City in antique furnishings. The cars were fully staffed by employees from the Southern Pacific Railroad and included a porter and a personal chef. In an article written on December 15, 2009 in the New York Society Diary by Michael Grace he noted, “The Virginia City had a 23-foot observation-drawing room, a dining room where 8 guests could dine as if at the Waldorf, a 50-bottle wine cellar, 3 staterooms, a small Turkish bath, and quarters for two staff. When the legendary director Cecil B. DeMille, a

friend of Beebe’s, first saw the Virginia City’s baroque interior, he supposedly said, "Tell the Madame I'll have a drink, but I'm too old to go upstairs."” It also included a butane fireplace. Beebe and Clegg published over 30 books together, yielding thousands of images of locomotives, trains, railroads, and railroad travel from the 1930s-1950s. In essence, they were documenting and preserving the end of an

October 27, 2019, with an opening reception on May 10 from 5:00pm - 8:00pm. A book by the same title accompanies the show. It was complied by John Gruber, the former executive director for the Center for Railroad Photography & Art and by John Ryan. “When the archive was donated to Cal State, Gruber had the idea of doing a book, and he and Ryan assisted by Mel Patrick, went through the archive. They did a first cut of what images should go in the book. The pictures needed to reflect the story they wanted to tell about Beebe and Clegg. When Scott Lothes, the current executive director for the Center for Railroad Photography & Art chose the photos for the show, I am guessing he chose photos that would complement the narrative for the book,” said Conrad. “Beebe and Clegg represent the confluence of two very different worlds and two very different time periods. And we're lucky to have them here at the Essex Steam Train, and hope everyone will enjoy the exhibit,” said Dodd. For more information, log onto www.essexsteamtrain.com/plan-a-visit/oliver-jensen-gallery.

Top: Photo by Lucius Beebe, Collection of the California State Railroad Museum, BC1259 Middle: Photo by Charles Clegg, Collection of the California State Railroad Museum, BC3248. Bottom: Photo by Charles Clegg (by timer) At dinner in Durango aboard D&RGW car B-2 sits (clockwise from left foreground) Charles Clegg, reporter Pasquale “Pocky” Marranzino, bank president Alfred P. Camp, Rio Grande Southern General Manager Clayton W. Graebing, Lucius Beebe, Durango Herald Democrat editor Harold L. Anderson, Durango chamber of commerce president Clair Campbell, D&RGW Chief Engineer Alfred E. Perlman, and D&RGW Alamosa Division superintendent L. H. Hale. Perlman and Beebe became lifetime friends.. Collection of the California State Railroad Museum, BCP4022

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Fishing On The Dock of The Bay By John Tolmie / Photos by John & Kate Tolmie

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f you live in a town along the Connecticut shore there is most likely a town dock where you can enjoy the beautiful sunsets, take in our amazing coastline, view the seabirds circling overhead and watch sailboats cruise lazily by. The town dock in April is a very special time in our little seaside village. The tourists haven’t yet arrived and the water is too cold to for a swim and I often find that I have the entire place to myself. I go to the dock to center myself in full view of the majesty of the sea and also to have a bit fun. I await aquatic visitors venturing north during April in the form of massive schools of striped bass. As they start to run north, these bright eyed and sleek fish congregate in pursuit of bunker and shad through the arterial brackish rivers that cut into the Connecticut shoreline. Anticipation of angling one of these prized fish mixed with the cool ocean air causes goose bumps to form on my arms. The first fish of the season solidifies that spring is here and catching one

seems to break the curse of that long winter we’ve just suffered through. It’s like a New England Groundhog Day, convincing myself that if I don’t catch a fish we will have six more weeks of cold weather! With a small lump of anxiety on my throat I step to the edge of the dock and take my first cast with a white soft lure mounted on a barbless hook. It’s a good cast that lands just shy of the channel leading up to the Mystic River. My mind races in hope and anticipation! Have they arrived? Am I using the right lure? Am I reeling it in naturally? Will they even bite? Is it too early in the seaso… BAM! Something snags the

end of my line and I instinctively pull up to set the hook. It’s been over five months since I’ve felt the fight of a fish and for a moment I think I am stuck on a rock or sunken chunk of driftwood. I start to reel in and then the drag on my reel starts to pay out. I yelp like a kid on Christmas and continue my childish hooting as I coax the feisty fish fighting for purchase a just few yards away. As the fish gets closer to me I feel spring getting closer. I see its tail swirl on the surface but still I’m not sure what I’ve hooked. Is this a bass or a weakfish or a bluefish? All my joy is bubbled up and overflowing as I pull the spirited finned predator out of the water. It’s


39 a small or more affectionately a “schoolie” striped bass. I talk to it like it’s an old friend who I’ve missed dearly and start apologizing to it for disturbing its day. The hook slips out without a hitch, I kiss it and thank it and howl once more before gently placing it back into the water and watching it zoom off in pursuit of more palatable fare. I lift my hand to my nose and huff the scent of my first fish of the season. It’s a smell that triggers memories of wonderful times on the ocean with friends and family. It reminds me why we suffer through the dreary winters here in the North East only to be rewarded with a spring and summer that is unrivaled anywhere else in the world. I take a few

more casts but alas there were no more takers this afternoon. Still, I am stoked! It’s a sign that spring has sprung and other species of fish will soon be congregating around our little seaside dock.

It’s amazing how many species of fish we have in our cool New England waters. Over the past three years I’ve landed thirteen different species of fish from this tiny speck of waterfront. Bluefish, scup, black seabass, weakfish, fluke, winter flounder, searobin, sand shark, dogfish, clear-nosed skate, tautog, kingfish and of course striped bass. It’s been a fun and frugal way to supplement meals during the spring and summer months. With the price of fish rising and the quality of store bought fish going down, I find myself harvesting fresh fish more often with each passing season. Fishing from your town dock has rules… some posted with signage while others are unspoken. With all situations in life a splash courtesy goes a long way. First I never cast from the dock if I arrive and people are swimming. They showed up first and I don’t want to put a damper on their fun. As my dad always says, “It pays to be first!” Second, I always keep my area neat and tidy. If I’m using bait such as squid I bring my own cutting board so as not to soil the deck. Third, I use as little space as possible. I want other people to be able to use the dock and enjoy the beauty of the ocean. Lastly, if people come up to me asking what I’m fishing for I’m always friendly. I usually bring two sets of tackle with me and I’ve often invited strangers to take a few casts if they are game. I’ve met so many interesting folks down at the dock. People from all over the country venture to the

coastline to take in the majestic scenery and I try to be an ambassador of sorts. Some folks aren’t into fishing but everyone seems to be intrigued by what is pulled from our briny waters. Fishing

from your local town dock is a grand way to experience and share what we have been gifted while making our home along Connecticut’s rugged coast. Please review Connecticut’s Department of Energy and Environmental Protection (DEEP) website prior to fishing as rules and regulations change often.


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“Lunch with Baldwin, with a Book by King” Traveler Food and Books

by Tom Soboleski / Photos by Jeffery Lilly

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magine savoring your bacon and eggs in a casual family style eatery beside Bill Murray. Or your tuna cheddar melt next to Alec Baldwin. Or relishing a Godfather Burger with Stephen King. These are just a few of the celebrities who occasionally pop in to Traveler Food and Books in Union, in Connecticut’s Corner. And Quiet besides them, you get to take home a book - or three - for free. Traveler is a one-of-akind restaurant. It has the feel and layout that reminds you of a library, Photo by Tom Soboleski without the stuffiness. It’s a friendly atmosphere, and anyone who has a meal is entitled to three free books; yours to keep. Lining the walls are framed portraits of numerous authors who have visited and left signed handwritten notes. Many are the giants

of storytelling; Stephen King, Alex Haley, Dr. Seuss, Robert Ludlum, Isaac Asimov, Mary Higgins Clark, and many others. “We easily give away 100,000 books a year,” said Karen Murdock, who together with her husband, Art, own and operate Traveler Food and Books. The novelty goes back to the early ‘80s when the previous owner, Marty Doyle, began bringing in books “because his house was overrun with them,” Karen said. “He was just a real big reader. He just left them lying around, and customers started to take them, and it kind of branched out from there.” As the idea took off, Doyle began to drive around the state scrounging through flea markets, yard sales, and library sales. Karen and

Art began working at the restaurant in the late ‘80s, and soon started going on book runs with him. When Doyle began thinking of retiring, he let Art and Karen run the place for a time to decide if they liked the business. After a year, they took the plunge and bought it. That was 26 years ago. “So here we are. It’s worked out well,” Karen said. The menu of Traveler is as unique as the establishment. Art said they try to present a large


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variety to appeal to the diversity of the traveling public. You can have a Charles Dickens Wrap with your James Michener epic, or a Booklover’s Burger with your John Updike saga. Start your day with a John Grisham thriller and a Novel Omelet (3 eggs, apples, and Vermont cheddar), or end it with asparagus French fries and a juicy Jackie Collins. There’s pizza on Fridays and Saturdays and full dinners like grilled salmon or bourbon marinated steak tips.

Dining areas are both spacious and cozy, with tables for two to eight arranged in little nooks and different rooms. Bookcases, shelves, and lamps give it a library-like feeling. But it’s all very informal, with diners encouraged to browse around for titles. Just the book you’re looking for may be on a shelf above a table of four, encouraging a chat amongst book lovers. It’s part of the charm that Karen has worked to establish. “Everybody gets to move around, and the customers get to talk to each other.” “We have an interesting clientele, it’s very diversified,” Karen said. Some stop 4-5 times a year while traveling the highway (I-84) - even a lot of Stephen King’s neighbors stop in. And the locals “a real big cross section and a lot of generations. People who brought their

kids, and now their kids are bringing their kids.” On a Saturday in February, Patricia Carucci stopped for lunch on her way to Boston from her home in upstate New York. It’s one of her favorite road stops. “The quaintness about it” really appeals to her. “This is like an old soda shop,” she said. “You have the old tables and everything. You have the wood paneling. I send so many people here. It’s wonderful. There should be other places like this.” The easy hop off and on I-84 makes Traveler a


Photos by Tom Soboleski


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convenient meeting place. Richard and Liz Hart of New Hampshire were here to reacquaint with old friends from New York. They come for both the food and the books and “have taken a number over the years,” Richard said. Their original visit was more than 30 years ago when they lived in Illinois and were driving through Connecticut. Celebrities popping in are fairly common. Most “like to be incognito,” Karen said. But not Susan Sarandon, who was in last year and took a photo with the diner at the next table. That was posted on the restaurant’s Facebook page. Robert Redford stopped in last summer and tried to keep a low profile. “He didn’t identify

himself,” Karen said, “but I’m pretty sure it was him. We were talking about horses actually, which was kind of funny.” Books cover all genres from fiction to non-fiction, mysteries to histories, mainly in hardcover, by authors from obscure locals to national best sellers by John Grisham, Elmore Leonard, Irving Wallace, and Danielle Steel. There’s a bookcase full of children’s books. For the ever-hot romance market, bushel bags of

paperbacks sell like hotcakes for $10. Bags of mysteries are $15. Audio books and a small selection of DVDs are also available.

set by William Thackeray, guides to Lionel model trains, a wine tour of France, and Shelby Foote’s Civil War.

To keep up with a pace that sees a few thousand books a week fly off the shelves, Karen and Art now make upwards of 50 or more collecting trips a year, towing a 16-foot horse trailer with their pickup. Their main sources are libraries and Friends of the Library group book sales. “It’s gotten to where they look for us,” Karen said. “At certain times of the year - like September is a big month for book sales - we can go to three a week.” Typically they will take whatever is left over at the end of the day, when the library just wants to get rid of them. In return, Art and Karen make a donation to the organization running the sale.

In these times when multi-tasking with high tech devices is second nature, perhaps Karen and Art’s most valuable contribution is providing the opportunity to escape our digital madness, if only for an hour or two. Getting lost in engaging stories while eating comforting food in a neighborly ambiance, you can make new friends and refresh your mind.

Customers also bring in books to donate every day.The Murdocks sort through them, trying to stay current with popular authors and titles, but also keeping an eye out for oddities like a medical dictionary from 1940. Encyclopedias, magazines, and outdated textbooks are refused, but “other than that, we pretty much take everything.” The lower level features row after row of used books for sale, all categorically sorted. Included are 10 volumes of the complete works of Robert Louis Stevenson, a 25 volume

Traveler Food and Books is just a stone’s throw off exit 74 from I-84 in Union, right next door to Sturbridge, MA. They’re open seven days a week from breakfast through dinner.


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American Vinyl All Star Band Old School Cool Just As Hot As Ever by Ali Kaufman / Live photos by Dan Minicucci Photography

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he talent and history that this band brings to the stage are staggering and diverse. This entire article could be a list of the bands' credits on albums, tours, and stages all around the globe. Resting on their laurels is not American Vinyl All Star Band are doing. Instead, this group has formed with Bill Johnson's expert management and are using their incredible musicality and high profile name recognition to not only keep the music flowing, but also farm a lot of good karma

drop as the former member of The Wailers and Third World, Leroy Romans, played No Woman No Cry, to open the show. The genuine affection these bandmates have for each other is palpable as they take us on a journey through their history. They all bring such extensive catalogs of music to the table that every song they play is not only recognizable, but is a musical thread woven into the fabric of our collective memories.

along the way by supporting various foundations and charitable groups. That is how I first came to see the American Vinyl All Star Band. They were celebrating Jeffrey "Skunk" Baxter's 70th birthday with a star-studded bash at the Birchmere in Alexandria, Virginia, but the Marine Corps Scholarship Foundation received the gift of the sold-out benefit.

Baxter has a Connecticut connection as a graduate of the Taft School in Watertown as well as a link to nearly every rock star that you can think of. In 1966 after fortuitously meeting Jimi Hendrix at the Manhattan music shop he worked, he went on to play in his band, Jimmy James and the Blue Flames that year. Fast forward to 1972 where he became a founding member of Steely Dan and played on their first

The nucleus of the group consists of Jeffrey "Skunk" Baxter, and Barry Goudreau both lead guitarists and vocals, Leroy Romans on keyboards/vocals, Tim Archibald on bass, Robert "Mousey" Thompson on drums and lead singer Danny Beissel. They are enthralling from the first note, you could have heard a pin

three albums. His guitar solos on Rikki Don't Lose That Number, and My Old School are still inspiring musicians of all ages. In 1974 Skunk joined the Doobie Brothers and solidified his full member status on the 1975 release of Stampede. Before leaving the band in 1979, the Doobie Brothers took his genius suggestion

to bring his friend Michael McDonald onboard, which was a brilliant move as proved by the hugely successful succession of albums that followed. It is a safe bet that you've been listening to Skunk Baxter's instrumentation on many of your favorite albums, he was and is in much demand as a sessions player. In addition to his music career, there is another world that Jeff orbits as a highly sought after Defense consultant. After taking an interest in militaryoriented publications, he wrote his own paper, that "proposed converting the ship-based antiaircraft Aegis system into a rudimentary missile defense system." That paper found its way to Dana Rohrabacher and another facet of Baxter's illustrious career was born. These two arenas seem vastly different, but they do intersect at times, such as in 2007 when close friend and former White House Press Secretary, Tony Snow, jammed on the South Lawn of the White House at a Congressional Picnic.


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The American Vinyl All Star Band also consists of, Barry Goudreau, guitarist, formerly of the band Boston. Barry is most closely related to classic rock, and his style is recognizable from the first note. In addition to his work with The American Vinyl All Star Band, he recently formed Barry Goudreau’s Engine Room which has already put out one album in 2017, Full Steam Ahead, and is at work on recording the sophomore follow up for release later on this year. Tim Archibald's bass can be heard on both albums as he is a member of Barry's new band as well as the All Stars. Tim spent four years at Berklee College of Music in Boston and went on to spend six years playing with Peter Wolf, among many

Connecticut gets its first chance to experience this astonishing band when they hit the stage to grandly open the new dining and entertainment venue, The Phoenix, in Pawcatuck with two very different and distinct evenings of music and conversation on April 19th and 20th. Details on these events and more about the musicians can be found at Americanvinylallstarband.net and PhoenixDandE.com other collaborations. His love of what he does is clear when you see him perform live, his joy reels you in. Rounding out the band is drummer Robert "Mousey" Thompson from James Brown's band and Wilson Picket. I challenge you to sit still during his powerful and precise solos. Lead singer Danny Beissel bravely takes on the monster hits they perform, his unique voice and vivacious stage presence put a fresh spin on seasoned classics. Beissel is also releasing new music with another band he fronts, Featherborn. Check out the latest single, Blush. It is on the excellent new self-titled offering.

Visit Melvinsealsandjgb.com for more information


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Leaving an “Impression” on Art in America The Havemeyers of Greenwich By Anne W. Semmes / Images courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art / Greenwich Historical Society from artist friend, Mary Cassatt that she purchase the Edgar Degas pastel the “Ballet Rehearsal.” The year was 1877.

Louisine Waldron Elder Havemeyer and Henry Osborne Havemeyer in Paris

“It was so new and strange to me! I scarcely knew how to appreciate it, or whether I liked it or not,” is how 22-year-old Louisine Elder, destined to marry the Sugar King, Harry O. Havemeyer, reacted to the recommendation

Louisine’s purchase was made in Paris for $100, with a loan from her two sisters, making Louisine Degas’s first American patron. With the death of Louisine Havemeyer, age 74, (her husband died in 1907), came her bequest to the Metropolitan Museum of Art of the astounding 2,000 objects of art in the H. O. Havemeyer Collection. “One of the most magnificent gifts of works of art ever made to a museum by a single individual,” is how Laura Corey, a specialist in Impressionism, related the reaction of the director of the Met at that time. Corey, Research Associate in European Paintings at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, spoke recently before a Greenwich Art Society audience in Greenwich, former hometown of

the Havemeyers, to tell the story of “The Extraordinary Havemeyer Collection: from the Occident to the Orient and from Clouet to Cezanne.” “There are now over 4,000 objects in nearly every Department of the Metropolitan from the H.O. Havemeyer Collection,” said Corey, but what resonated was, “The Havemeyer Collection is known best for its Impressionist paintings.” That pioneer collection of French Impressionist paintings with Louisine’s early enthusiasm, mentored as she was by Paris-based Impressionist painter Mary Cassatt, would continue through the years Louisine and Harry Havemeyer lived in “Hilltop,”a house they built in 1890 atop Palmer Hill in Greenwich. The family divided their time between “Hilltop” and their New York home at 1 East 66th Street.

Edgar Degas, “Rehearsal of the Ballet” 1876 - The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York., H.O. Havemeyer Collection, Bequest of Mrs. H. O. Havemeyer, 1929


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The H.O. Havemeyer home, "Hilltop" in Greenwich that was located on Palmer Hill - Courtesy of The Greenwich Historiacl Society

Edouard Manet, “The Grand Canal Venice� 1875 - The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York., H.O. Havemeyer Collection, Bequest of Mrs. H. O. Havemeyer, 1929


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Cezanne, “Winter Landscape with Viaduct” 1882 - The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York., H.O. Havemeyer Collection, Bequest of Mrs. H. O. Havemeyer, 1929

Manet, “Boating” 1874 - The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York., H.O. Havemeyer Collection, Bequest of Mrs. H. O. Havemeyer, 1929

Edgar Degas, “Self-Portrait”

Edgar Degas, “Woman Bathing in a Shallow Tub” 1885 - The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York., H.O. Havemeyer Collection, Bequest of Mrs. H. O. Havemeyer, 1929

Monet, “The Drawbridge, Amsterdam” 1874 - The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York., H.O. Havemeyer Collection, Bequest of Mrs. H. O. Havemeyer, 1929

Claude Monet, “Bouquet of Sunflowers” - The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York., H.O. Havemeyer Collection, Bequest of Mrs. H. O. Havemeyer, 1929


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Edgar Degas, “Dancers, Pink and Green” 1890 - The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York., H.O. Havemeyer Collection, Bequest of Mrs. H. O. Havemeyer, 1929

And this kind of foursome of Durand-Ruel, Cassatt, Harry, and Louisine join forces and make the huge impact on exporting Impressionism to America.” The couple committed to meeting the artists. “Degas tenderly lifted drawings and showed them to us,” Corey quoted Louisine. “We could see how greatly he prized them. Mr. Havemeyer requested to Degas to let him have some of them, but he seemed reluctant to give them up.”

Mary Cassatt, “Louisine Havemeyer” 1896 - The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York., H.O. Havemeyer Collection, Bequest of Mrs. H. O. Havemeyer, 1929

Their next door neighbor in New York showed how the Havemeyers collecting taste impacted others. “His name was Colonel Oliver Hazard Payne,” noted Corey, “He fought in the Civil War ultimately at the rank of Brigadier General.” Introduced to Impressionism by the Havemeyers, the wealthy Payne would purchase an “incredible work of art by Degas, another ‘Ballet Rehearsal’…but they almost regretted giving it to him because it's such a great one.”

Payne would likely have enjoyed the purchase the Havemeyers would make of Manet’s Civil War era marine painting, “The Kearsarge at Boulogne.” Manet painted it in 1865 soon after the famed Confederate cruiser, the “Alabama,” was sunk by the Union ship, “Kearsarge” off the coast of Cherbourg, France. The Havemeyers’ subsequent purchase of Monet’s “The Green Wave,” was said to have been inspired by Manet’s painting. These two paintings starred in an exhibit at the Met, “Manet and the American Civil War,” that cited the pair as having “paved the way for a new kind of painting…Impressionism.” But those two purchases came after Louisine introduced her husband Harry to Mary Cassatt in Paris in 1889, six years after their marriage and after having borne three children. “It’s the year of the World’s Fair that debuts the Eiffel Tower,” said Corey. “They see these major exhibitions. They're led by two major figures, Mary Cassatt and Paul Durand-Ruel, who is the main dealer for the Impressionists.

Edouard Manet, “The 'Kearsarge' at Boulogne” 1864 - The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Individual Gifts - 1999

Degas would become “the most important artist” in the Havemeyer collection. “They had over 60 paintings, drawings, pastels, and fans, a full set of all 70 bronzes, and almost countless prints,” noted Corey. “So not only were they the first American collectors of Degas, but even including French collectors, really the most impressive.” Degas’s bronze sculpture of “The FourteenYear-Old Dancer” is world famous. But not for Louisine Havemeyer and Mary Cassatt, it might

Edgar Degas "The Little Fourteen Year Old Dancer" 1880 The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York., H.O. Havemeyer Collection, Bequest of Mrs. H. O. Havemeyer, 1929


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Katsushika Hokusai, The Great Wave, ca. 1830.32 - - The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York., H.O. Havemeyer Collection, Bequest of Mrs. H. O. Havemeyer, 1929


59 not exist. Originally a wax figure as exhibited by Degas, “dressed in a tutu with hair with ribbon,” it was considered “vulgar;” thus Degas kept it in his studio, related Corey. Seeing its deterioration, the two women encouraged Degas to “fix it up” unsuccessfully. After Degas’s death, this, and other of his wax sculptures, were cast in bronze with Louisine obtaining “the first full set.” All those years before Louisine and Harry got together, Harry had collected Dutch masters and much Asian art. The 300 Japanese color woodblock prints are cited “as the best of the Havemeyer Asian Collection,” which includes that famous Hokusai color woodblock, “The Great Wave at Kanagawa.” Cassatt and other French Impressionists were also Japanese print collectors. “Many, many of these artists were inspired by Japanese prints,” noted Corey. Surely, as the Havemeyers’ collection grew with its French Impressionist acquisitions making the headlines, so must have the inspiration with those Connecticut artists who were shaping American Impressionism in a lively art colony in Cos Cob. From 1890 to 1920 they were living and working not far from the Havemeyers, simultaneously with an art colony in Old Lyme. The Havemeyers footprint in Greenwich is large – it includes a Havemeyer School, now the Havemeyer Building that houses the Town’s School District, Havemeyer Lane, Havemeyer Field, and Havemeyer Place. But perhaps most impressive in size is what became of the 200-acre property of the Havemeyer Hilltop estate. It was not until 1946 that the Havemeyer heirs sold off the property to former heavyweight boxing champion and real estate developer, Gene Tunney, whose wife Polly Lauder was the granddaughter of a former business partner of Andrew Carnegie, and who lived in another Greenwich “house on a hill” i.e. “Tighnabruaich” (Gaelic). Tunney, a WWII veteran, developed Havemeyer Park, with housing affordable for his fellow veterans and streets appropriately named for its war heroes. Meanwhile, the Havemeyer family art collecting legacy continues. Louisine and Harry’s three children, Horace, Adaline, and Electra would collect, with Electra creating her own Shelburne Museum south of Burlington, Vermont, housing not only Manets, Monet, and Cassatt, but primarily Americana. Electra Havemeyer was particularly inspired by this spoken legacy of her mother Louisine:

“Children, remember how blessed you are, and if the opportunity ever offers, equalize the sum of human happiness, and share the sunshine that you have inherited.”


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PLEASE JOIN US FOR FIRST FRIDAY, APRIL 5th, 2019 FROM 5 - 8 pm FOR AN EHHIBIT OF NEW PAINTINGS FROM HIS HOME & TRAVELS BY LEIF NILSSON WITH LIVE MUSIC BY ARROWHEAD. THE NEXT CONCERT IN THE GARDEN - SATURDAY, APRIL 13th 2019 FROM 7 - 9 pm WITH D.B. REILLY Arrowhead strings along on most Sunday afternoons. Find out about the Concerts in the Garden, First Fridays, Leifs paintings, prints and more at

www nilssonstudio com


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Travel

10 Islands,13 Days: Adventure Aboard a Freighter in French Polynesia by Susan Cornell / Photos by Susan & Bailey Cornell

Photo by Bailey Cornell


65 No one would call the Aranui 5 stunning. This hybrid of part passenger and part freighter is the main supply line to paradise. The front half looks like other cargo ships, with cranes and holds for all types of goods. The back, though, is like a cruise ship with cabins, decks, and a pool. This is not the kind of trip that would appeal to “fly and flop” vacationers nor the lion’s share of those who hop on a ship for their holiday. No midnight buffets, no stage shows, no casino. But if you’ve got some Walter Mitty in you and dream of jumping aboard a freighter to see the world, this option might make your fantasies come true.

Photo by Bailey Cornell

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f there’s an iconic trip in the South Pacific, it’s the Aranui. For three decades this ship has been the umbilical cord between the Marquesas and Tahiti and a favorite with adventuresome tourists. The 13-day voyage departing from Papeete takes her to two atolls in the Tuamotus, six islands in the Marquesas, as well as Bora Bora.

The Aranui 5, described as a “freighter to paradise,” carries a couple of hundred passengers who think it’s cool watching the ship offload cars, oil, generators, boat motors, pallets of toilet paper, and other staples from the outside world, as well as onloading coconuts, bananas, citrus, and fish. If the Marquesas sound familiar, it’s probably because it was showcased on the TV show, Survivor. Most of us hadn’t even heard of these

islands before, but Herman Melville wrote about it, Paul Gauguin painted it, and Jacques Brel sang of it. Papeete, the capital of French Polynesia, is not exactly paradise, but you have to start somewhere with an airport. Outside the city are fabulous resorts, which make for perfect pre- and/or post-trip stays since flights probably won’t align well with a cruise departure or arrival. Our first stop in paradise landed us at Fakarava, an atoll in the archipelago of Tuomotu. Fakarava is a popular destination for several reasons. UNESCO protects this atoll for its particularly rare flora and fauna. We discovered the small village of Rotoava, a church built of coral and local arts and crafts.


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While some of the guests rented bicycles and ventured to an old lighthouse, we enjoyed the day swimming and snorkeling. The following day, a sea day, was spent attending a workshop on how to make Tahitian raw fish with coconut milk, followed by weaving palm leaves, Tahitian dance class, and a lecture on the Marquesas. Our next stop took us to the island of Nuka Hiva in the Marquesas, where the village stretches along a beach of an amphitheater, created by eruptions of three volcanoes. Our adventure included a tour of the Cathedral Notre Dame, famed for its wood sculptures and stonework, a 4x4 tour to the northern coast, and a visit to the archaeological site, Tohua Kamuihei. A traditional “Umu,” a Marquesan specialty where food is cooked in an underground oven, was served for lunch. The only negative in paradise we found was in Nuku Hiva, and it was a double negative; the “no-nos,” or small sand flies -nothing a little DEET can’t remedy.

Each island is completely unique, and what Hiva Oa, on day six, is primarily known for are the marks post-Impressionist artist, Paul Gauguin and Belgian singer-songwriter, Jacques Brel have left to such an Photo by Bailey Cornell extent that a replica of the House of Pleasure, where Gauguin painted the place is of homage and reflection. The day and celebrated the life he felt was escaping started with an early hike to the cemetery him, was built. Hiva Oa is not touristy; rather, where both Gauguin and Brel are buried, followed by an exploration of the Gauguin and Brel museums. On Fatu Hiva is the most famous trek of the Aranui adventure: 10 miles, the first half of which are uphill (completely and straight up hill). I’ve hiked 20 miles of Blue-Blazed and Appalachian Trails in Connecticut in one day more than once and can attest that hiking 10 miles in French Polynesia is harder than 20 miles in Connecticut for three reasons: the combination of steeper, hotter, and more humid. But this was also one of the best hikes of a lifetime. Why? Because what goes up, must come down, and the down half offered spectacular views of valleys and towering cliffs, waterfalls, and the Bay of Virgins, one of the world’s most beautiful bays.

The following morning, we landed in Ua Poa, often called “The Cathedral Island”. We were among the energetic early risers who hiked up the hill to the Cross for breathtaking views of the village and valleys. The nearby artisans’ center offered works featuring the unique “flower stone,” pebbles decorated naturally with flower shaped designs. Back on board, we attended a lecture on “Colonization, Epidemics, and Depopulation.”

Fatu Hiva, the most lush and remote in the archipelago is also the center of Marquesan crafts. Women demonstrated making taa by bark on a log to be dried and painted with ancient traditional designs. Another demonstration showed making humuhei, a flower Burial site of artist Paul Gauguin.



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and herb bundle used to perfume the women’s hair. The next day took us back to Hiva Oa, but to a different bay. A morning drive by 4x4 led to Puamau to visit the most important local archaeological site for tikis. The guides showed us the ruins and shared stories of the statues and ancient civilization. Thoughts of chieftains and priests, prisoners, and sacrifices, and of course cannibalism were constantly on the mind. Next stop -- Ua Huka, also known as the island of horses, where they roam freely in the valleys. Here we explored the community botanical garden and foraged starfruit, mangoes, breadfruit, and Noni (a native plant). We had time to visit the fishing village of Hakatu with a handicraft center and petroglyph museum, followed by a visit to Hane village with another handicraft center and sea museum. The second of two sea days was just busy enough: a Polynesian brunch followed by a workshop on creating shell jewelry, a Q&A with the head of the cargo side of the ship, Polynesian-themed movies, and another Ori Tahiti dance class. Back in the Tuamoto archipelago, the island of Rangiroa or “huge sky” is definitely on the bucket list for a future trip. While some of the passengers visited a pearl farm to learn about these rare gems and see how they are grown, we swam, snorkeled, and explored the largest atoll in French Polynesia. Our last new adventure took us to Bora Bora, which showcases a lagoon in myriad shades of blues and greens, as well as Mt. Otemanu.

We enjoyed a day at the beach on a private motu (a small islet) where the crew prepared a delicious picnic lunch featuring Tahitian specialties. In the afternoon we chose an optional activity, a wooden canoe journey circumnavigating Bora Bora and stopping to snorkel and feed sharks and rays. All good things come to an end, and we did return to Papeete for the flight home. With an early disembarkation, but a late night flight, the Intercontinental Resort Tahiti became our home for the final day in paradise.

What Henri Matisse (1869-1954) said of his journey in the Tuamotus years ago is as true today as it was then: “I find everything magnificent: the landscapes, the trees, the flowers, and the people. It is impossible for me to describe everything that I’ve felt since I arrived here.”



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Cheesemonger Paul Partica, The Cheese Shop, Centerbrook CT

National Fondue Day It just so happens that one of my favorite foods has its own holiday. April 11th is National Fondue Day. How good is that? I have enjoyed making and eating fondue for over fifty years. Now it has its own national holiday. Fondue is a lot of fun. Your food is not delivered to you on a plate. You assemble it as you go, and you eat at your own pace. For my family it serves as more than a holiday tradition, but a treat we enjoy all year long.

Did you know that fondue was originally considered a peasant food? It was a way to re-purpose old bread, dried-out cheese and wine that might have been opened too long. I find it amazing how many old peasant foods are now considered gourmet. A classic example is serving olive oil in a small dish laced with fine herbs, instead of butter. This started because butter was less affordable for many. The original fondue gets its name form the French word “fonder,� which means to melt. Today, the term is used widely for anything that can be dipped into a sauce or oil of any kind. For me, it means a blend of Swiss cheeses, white wine and crusty bread. I have used the following recipe for almost 50 years. I hope it will work for you.


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CHeeSe FoNDue ReCIPe 1 cup dry white wine 1/4 cup Kirsch (optional as this can be too strong for some) 1 pound cheese, shredded or cubed * (1/2 pound Emmenthaler and 1/2 pound Gruyere) 2 tablespoons arrowroot (corn starch or flour will also work) 1 garlic clove Squeeze of lemon juice Nutmeg and pepper to taste 2 loaves French bread, cut into bite sized cubes * To a v o i d a b l a n d - t a s t i n g f o n d u e , p u r c h a s e a w e l l - a g e d E m m e n thaler and Gruyere. Some like to add a quarter-pound of Appenzeller cheese to the mix. Appenzeller is a very flavorful Swiss cheese that is aged in a vat of white wine and spices.

Choose the correct fondue pot for the job. Your pot should be either earthenware, glazed clay or enameled cast iron. Do not use metal pots; save those for beef fondue.

Troubleshooting Fondue is too thick Add a little wine to the mixture

Fondue is too runny Add more cheese or a little more arrowroot

Fondue separates Always stir the fondue while cooking and at meal time, to keep it smooth and creamy. Add additional heat if necessary

Bread falls in to the fondue Rub the fondue pot with the cut garlic clove, then discard. Then mix the shredded or cubed cheese, black pepper and arrowroot powder in a plastic bag. Try to coat all of the cheese with arrowroot to stop the cheese from sticking together. Heat the wine in the fondue pot until hot, but not to a boil. Stir in a squeeze of lemon juice, which adds acidity to help the cheese and the wine merge. Add the cheese to the wine, a handful at a time, until melted and smooth. Stir constantly with a wooden spoon to keep the cheese from burning on the bottom. Top with a little nutmeg and additional pepper to taste. Tradition has it that if a man drops his bread while dipping his fork into the pot, he has to buy the next round. Should a lady lose her bread, she has to kiss the guy to her right. You can always start your own tradition.

Guidelines Please be careful with the hot pot, especially with children. Keep the pot in the center of the table. Today’s electric pots have breakaway cords to help eliminate accidents. I suggest placing a large cutting board under the pot to protect your table from pot burns or spills. Make sure you have plenty of room for all of the additional plates and glasses required. Fondue is often served with white wine, but many prefer beer, Kirsch or other liquors. I like a white wine that pairs with the wine used for making the fondue. It is always best to remember the old adage, “Don’t cook with a wine that you wouldn’t drink”.

Always cut the bread to leave some remaining crust on each piece, to give the fork something to hold on to.

Bottom burning In addition to stirring often, be sure to watch for boiling fondue. If this occurs, lower the heat. If you waited too long, you might have to transfer the fondue to another pot, clean the pot, then return the fondue mixture to the new pot. But if you catch it just right, the bottom of the pot forms a crust which, when peeled with a fondue fork, becomes a gourmet treasure. It is often fought over in my home.

Have fun Try bringing other foods into the mix. For a change, I enjoy dipping apple slices, mushrooms, cooked shrimp and assorted vegetables, to name a few. I used to think that fondue was only a winter dish, served near a warm fireplace. But since we started preparing fondue kits for customers, our summer days have also become busy. People love fondue all year long. Paul Partica, The Cheese Shop, (860) 767-8500 33 Main Street, Centerbrook, CT 06409 www.cheeseshopcenterbrook.com


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By Art LiPuma, General Manager SeaSide Wine & Spirits, Old Saybrook, CT

Germany, another one of Europe’s great wine producing countries. Germany is the fourth largest wine growing country in Europe. Even though this country is vast in growing grapes, it is small in comparison to the other products that are grown there. Most of the high quality wines are grown on steep slopes above the Rhine River. These vineyards need to be handpicked, which takes many extra hours. Along the flat lands the growers use machines for harvesting, there are smaller lots of land for grape growing than in the a higher elevation. In the 80s Liebfraumilch was one of the largest white wine exported, with wines like Black Tower and Blue Nun. Due to the sweetness of these wines the wine drinking population increased. The most popular grapes now are Riesling, Muller-Thurgau, and Silvaner. One of the most difficult things about German wines is understanding the label. One item that is always on the label is the region. There are thirteen winemaking regions in Germany. The four major wine regions are Mosel, Pfalz, Rheingau, Rheinhessen. The biggest growing region is Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. This region has been growing grapes for over 2000 years. Up until the 20th century most of the wine from this area stayed in the country. You might also see words like Tocken, Kabinett, Spatlese, Auslese, Trocken, Beerenauslese,Trockenbeerenauslese, and Eiswein. Tocken meaning dry, in a Riesling, you get a dry crisp wine if this term is on the label. Kabinett is picked during normal harvest which leads to a semi dry or dry wine. Spatlese means picked late, hence these wine are a little sweeter. Auslese is a process where the fullest ripe grapes are picked, which results in a fuller, slightly sweeter wine. With the Beerenauslese method the best grapes are handpicked to produce a juicy sweeter wine of slightly better quality. Trockenbeerenauslese is similar to that of Beerenauslese, however the grapes are dried so they become raisiny; hence producing a sweeter and more intense wine. Lastly, one other type of wine is Eiswein. This is a process of freezing the grapes on the vine. They are then pressed while they are frozen which makes for a concentrated wine with sweet fruit, also classified as a dessert wine. Some of the other practices that they use in wine making are: adding sugar to the wine to raise the alcohol content, called

chaptalization. Wine makers in Germany are also using brief skin contact before fermentation for their white grapes to give more body and control to the acidity, which was once reserved just for red grapes. One last thing to understand about many of the higher quality white wines is that they can age for many years, like a red wine which it can be up to 10-20 years or more of cellaring, which is not typical of most whites. Hopefully this will give you a better understanding of German wines and make it easier to pick out the wine you desire from Germany. With the variety of the wine making processes you can purchase a Riesling from bone dry to intensely sweet. Have fun with your next selection of German wines, as they will prove to be a tasty accompaniment to many dishes. Cheers! Art LiPuma, General Manager at SeaSide Wine & Spirits 118 Main St, old Saybrook, Connecticut www.seasidewineandspirits.com


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Written by Heather Kelly Director of Operations, NoRA Cupcake Company Photos: Winter Caplanson, Connecticut Food and Farm

Spring-ing Ahead Sweet, Sweet, Spring. Don’t get us wrong - we love winter hibernation cupcake eating season but we’re ready to get back into the sunshine with some light and fruity flavors. Is there anything livelier than lemon to awaken those taste buds? We don’t think so - which is why we can’t seem to stop coming up with endless combinations to highlight that citrusy kick. Looking for some options on how to put your lemon to good use besides a traditional meringue? We’ve got some flavor ideas that you can make on your own at home or check out at our bakery. RASPBeRRY LeMoNADe - as refreshing in dessert form as the beverage is on a spring day. The natural sweetness of the raspberries baked into a tart lemon cake balance beautifully. We like to finish it off with a black raspberry buttercream frosting and a candied lemon zest for a sweet pucker. LeMoN DRoP - this one’s for the real lemon enthusiast! The lemon curd filling is definitely the highlight in this lemon flavored cake. To balance out the citrus kick you can use an almond buttercream for a silky finish. We like to mix in some toasted almonds into the candied lemon zest topping on this one which gives it a nice added crunch. CoCoNuT LeMoN BeRRY - a whole flavor explosion! If you want a full tropical dessert experience - this cupcake is for you. A coconut cake serves as the base, filled with sweet raspberry preserves, and a coconut flake covered lemon buttercream is the finish. The creamy taste of the coconut mellows out the lemon punch and adds a nice textured finish. When life hands you lemons - zest ‘em up and put ‘em in a cake! If you’re not the baking type but want a sugar fix come see us at our bakery in Middletown and our NEW location at 60 Bank Street in New London! We’re so excited to be slingin’ cake in Southeast CT and meeting all of our new neighbors in Downtown New London. And as the weather warms up - keep an eye for the Lil’ NoRA cupcake truck at local events and festivals. Enjoy the sunshine! NoRa Cupcake Company - noracupcake.com (860) 788-3150 - 700 Main St, Middletown, CT 06457 (860) 574-5860 - 60 Bank Street New London, CT 06320


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PASTA FReSCA In Italy, there are two main types of pasta: Pasta secca (dry pasta made with only flour and water) and pasta fresca, which replaces the water with eggs.

Written and Photos by Bob Zemmel, Owner of Alforno Trattoria

Pasta fresca is served cooked all the way through and typically is made into shapes such as tagliatelle, long strands about 3/8 of an inch wide, and pappardelle, which are long strands ž of an inch to an inch wide. Pasta fresca is used for lasagna sheets, ravioli and all sorts of filled pastas.


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Fresh pasta made with local eggs, non-industrially produced eggs, which have a deeper orange-yellow yolk, yields a better tasting and better looking pasta. The ratio of egg to flour is always roughly one large egg to one cup of flour. If needed, an egg yolk or two can be added to soften the dough and add extra flavor. The traditional method is to make a well of flour with an egg dropped into the center. We then gather the flour into the egg until all the flour has been incorporated. hen we knead until we get a slightly elastic dough ball. Alternately, we can use a food processor to mix and knead the dough. The dough can be rolled out by hand or fed through a pasta machine. An inexpensive Italian pasta machine (about $30-60. the Mercato Italian made machines are he reference standard for home use.) will come in handy to roll out the dough to the preferred thickness. Fresh pasta is typically combined with hearty meat sauces as well as butter and cream sauces. The latter sauces allow the pasta to shine as the centerpiece of the dish. We often add seasonal ingredients to garnish the creamy sauce for color and different flavors. As we head into spring, asparagus, peas and wild mushrooms make terrific additions to a fresh pasta dish.

Process the dough for 45 seconds to mimic hand kneading. Wrap dough in plastic wrap and allow to rest at room temperature for about 1 hour. Cut the dough into three pieces. Starting with the widest setting on the pasta machine, run one portion of the dough through the rollers. Repeat this step, adjusting the settings from widest to thinnest, using the numbered guide on the side of the machine. Repast with the remaining dough pieces. To cut the pasta dough into noodles by hand, lightly flour or sprinkle semolina or cornmeal onto the pasta sheet and roll up like a jelly roll. With a sharp knife, cut across the jelly roll every 3/8 of an inch wide. Unroll the strips of tagliatelle, sprinkle with cornmeal and gather into a loose mound. The pasta can be frozen or used immediately.

Tagliatelle with Asparagus To make Tagliatelle

Ingredients:

For the pasta:

12 ounces tagliatelle 2 ounces butter ½ cup heavy cream, optional 1 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano 8 ounces asparagus spears, cut into 2-inch pieces

2 cups (10 ounces) all-purpose flour 2 large eggs with 1 egg yolk reserved Pinch of salt

Handmade method: Make a well of flour with a hollow in the center. Put the eggs in the center of the well and break the yolks with a fork. Gather in the flour, beginning with the center of the well, and mix continuously until all of the flour is incorporated into the eggs and a ball of dough is formed. If the dough ball doesn’t form, add the reserved egg yolk. Knead the dough vigorously for 5 minutes or so until the dough is elastic and smooth. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and allow to rest at room temperature for about 1 hour. After the rest the dough ball should allow you to push your finger into the dough with little resistance. Lightly flour a clean work surface and rolling pin. Roll out the dough in all directions until the pasta sheet is almost translucent. Food processor and pasta machine method: Add flour and salt to the bowl of the food processor. Pulse a few times. With the machine running, drop in the eggs through the feed tube. Initially, crumbs of dough will form followed by the dough ball.

Bring 4 quarts of water to a rolling boil. Add 1 tablespoon of kosher salt to the water. Blanch the asparagus pieces for one two minutes, depending on thickness. Remove with a strainer or slotted spoon into a cold water bath. Put the tagliatelle into the same boiling water, stir to separate the noodles and cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Test for doneness by biting into a piece. There should be little resistance to the tooth. Drain the pasta, reserving a cup of the cooking water. In a 12-inch skillet, melt the butter. Add the pasta, cheese and asparagus. Toss until well mixed and the cheese coats the pasta. If the sauce is a little dry, stir in a couple of tablespoons or so of the cooking water or, if desired, the heavy cream. Stir until all ingredients are incorporated. Divide into two large portions or four appetizer portions. enjoy Alforno Trattoria • Bar • Pizza 1654 Boston Post Road, old Saybrook, CT 860-399-4166 | www.Alforno.net


APRIL EVENTS

80 Month of April - old Saybrook Just some of the happening at Little Pub! Please check out our website for the full events calendar! Wednesday, April 3 - SHAWN TAYLoR 7:00 pm - 9:00 pm Thursday, April 4 - Sean Chewy CHuA 7:00 pm - 9:00 pm Friday, April 5 - Brandon Terzakis 9:00 pm - 11:45 pm Wednesday, April 10 - Green eyed Lady Acoustic Duo 7:00 pm - 9:00 pm Thursday, April 11 - Thursday Night Music Club with Griff Anthony 6:30 pm - 9:00 pm Friday, April 12 - Mike and the Mackerels 9:00 pm - 11:45 pm Saturday, April 13 - Pimpinella 9:00 pm - 11:45 pm Wednesday, April 17 -unplugged With elle Sera 6:30 pm - 9:00 pm Thursday, April 18 - Izzy Malek 7:00 pm - 9:00 pm Friday, April 19 - Jamie's Junk Show 9:00 pm - 11:45 pm Wednesday, April 24 -evie Joy 7:00 pm - 9:00 pm Saturday, April 27 -Acoustic Mafia 8:00 pm - 11:00 pm Little Pub 1231 Boston Post Rd Old Saybrook Ct 06475 (860) 339-5591 http://www.littlepub.com/oldsaybrook/ April 1 - June 9 New London Chinese Landscape Rethought, a new group exhibition opening at the Lyman Allyn Art Museum, presents a rethinking of Chinese landscape or shanshui (“mountain-water”) art through the convergence of traditional Chinese ink painting and contemporary experimental art. The exhibition will be on view through June 9, 2019. It was organized by guest curator, Dr. Yibing Huang, Associate Professor of Chinese and Curator of the Chu-Griffis Asian Art Collection at Connecticut College. In conjunction with the exhibition, the Lyman Allyn will host a symposium with the exhibited artists on Friday, April 12 from 1:00 – 5:00 PM. The artists will discuss how through their different artistic approaches and personal backgrounds they make a new contemporary Chinese landscape that is universally relevant. This event is free to the public. Please RSVP to 860.443.2545 ext. 2129, space is limited. A Chinese Brush Painting Workshop instructed by Eva Leong will be held on Saturday, April 27 from 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM. Participants will gather in the studio for a full day workshop to learn about the mindfulness and discipline of Chinese painting history, traditions, and techniques. All materials are included. Museum members are $80, and non-members are $90. Please RSVP to 860.443.2545 ext. 2129, space is limited. Lyman Allyn Art Museum 625 Williams Street • New London, CT 06320 860.443.2545 • www.lymanallyn.org Month of April - Branford April events at Lennys Indian Head Restaurant! Please go to our website www.lennysnow.com for complete list of events April 7 - Java Groove @ 1:00 pm - 4:00 pm April 14 - Joe and Me @ 1:00 pm - 4:00 pm April 21 - easter Sunday @ 11:30 am - 5:00 pm. Enjoy our full menu and ham and lamb dinner specials. Live jazz with the Jeff Fuller Trio from 1-4 pm. Reservations accepted 203-488-1500. April 28 - Four Barrel Billy 1:00PM – 4:00PM RePeAT eVeNTS: Thursday Nights – Ladies’ Night $6 Martinis and Apps at the bar Friday Nights - Happy Hour 4-6 $2 Bud Light bottles and Free Wings Sunday Fundays – Build your own Bloody Mary Bar and Live Music 1-4 pm Lennys 205 South Montowese St (Rt. 146) Branford, CT 06405 www.lennysnow.com 203-488-1500

Month of April- Westbrook April events at Waters edge Resort & Spa. Please go to our website www.WatersEdgeResortAndSpa.com for complete list of events April 6 – A Tribute to Linda Ronstadt: Reception: 6:00pm Dinner Show: 7:00pm April 12– A Tribute to elton John: An evening with Sir Elton John – Performed by Yellow Brick Road. Reception: 6:00pm Dinner Show: 7:00pm. April 20 – A Tribute to Dave Matthews: Performed by Crowded Streets 6pm-10pm. April 21 – easter Brunch 9:00am to 5:00pm - $49.95++ per person, $22.00++ for children under 12. April 22 - 26 – Spa Days at Water’s edge, Enjoy 50% Off All 50 minute Treatments. April 26 – A Tribute to The Rolling Stones: Performed by Satisfaction. 6pm-10pm. RePeAT eVeNTS: Prix Fixe Lunch Mon. through Fri. 11:30am-2:30pm $14++ Prix Fixe Dinner Mon. through Fri. 5:30pm-9pm $25++ Lobster Boil specials and trivia every Monday Happy Hour Specials Mon. through Fri. 4pm-6pm Taco and Tequila specials every Tuesday Girl’s Night Out every Wednesday Thursday Night Burger Specials Sparkling & Sushi specials every Friday night Live music every Friday and Saturday night Award winning Brunch every Sunday Tickets available online or by calling the front desk 860-399-5901. Water’s Edge Resort and Spa, 1525 Boston Post Road, Westbrook, CT For info, call 860-399-5901 or visit www.WatersEdgeResortAndSpa.com April 2 thru May old Saybrook Wine Course at Alforno in old Saybrook To explore the World of Wine. Alforno in Old Saybrook will host a series of wine education tastings that will meet on eight Tuesdays beginning April 2 through May 21. The hour-long sessions will take place at 6:30 p.m. in Alforno’s new bar. Ben Zemmel, who draws on 10 years of immersive experience in the study of wine, will lead the wine-tasting journey through Italy’s wine regions as well as the American West Coast, France and Spain. He will guide guests through the characteristics of each region’s wines. Each session will feature four wines paired with small bites.The schedule is: Bordeaux, April 2; Piedmont, April 9; West Coast, April 30; Campania, May 7; Burgundy, Beaujolais and Rhone, May 14, and Spain, May 21. For more details on the wines please visit our website: www.alforno.net/events. Each tasting will be limited to eight guests. Sessions are sold in multiples of two per person – 2, 4, 6 or all 8 sessions. The cost is $30 per session. To register, email Ben Zemmel at ben@alforno.net. Alforno, at 1654 Boston Post Road, Old Saybrook, is open daily for lunch and dinner. Telephone: 860-399-4166.


81

easter Sunday 4/21: Join us for Brunch and Dinner Specials, as well as Live Music. NCAA Basketball Championship Weekend: $3 Bud light drafts during any tournament game. Live Music: Wednesday, 4/3 – Keith Cooper and Trish Radill from 5:30pm Friday, 4/5 – Mad Men from 8pm Saturday, 4/6 – Nightshift from 8pm Sunday, 4/7 – Brett Bottomly Trio from 3pm Wednesday, 4/10 – Carrie Ashton from 5:30pm Friday, 4/12 – Crossover from 8pm Saturday, 4/13 – Primetime from 8pm Sunday, 4/14 – Mixed Bag Duo from 3pm Wednesday, 4/17 – Just the Two of us from 5:30pm Thursday, 4/19 – Sugar Daddy from 5:30pm Friday, 4/20 – 384 east Band from 8pm Wednesday, 4/24 –Borderline Genius from 5:30pm Saturday, 4/26 – Whiskey, Wine and Coke from 8pm Sunday, 4/27 – Avenue Groove from 3pm Repeat events: Mondays: Half-Price Wine Bottles from 5pm – close Tuesdays: Taco Tuesday from 5pm – close Wednesdays: Live Music from 5:30pm – 8:30pm Thursdays: Ladies Nite with Drink & Happy Hour Specials from 3pm – close Fridays: Prime Rib from 5pm – close & Live Music from 8pm – 12am Saturdays: Live Music from 8pm – 12am Sundays: Brunch from 11:30am – 3:00pm & Live Music 3pm – 6pm

April 5 - May 11 Madison Annual Still Life Invitational at Susan Powell Fine Art. We are pleased to present our 13th Annual Still Life Invitational, a popular exhibition that has become an exciting tradition and highly anticipated show for painters and collectors of still life. Join us for the Opening Reception on Friday, April 5, from 5 to 8 pm, wine and hors d'oeuvres will be served. Twenty-five award-winning artists are participating this year. The varied subjects and compositions are portrayed in both traditional and contemporary styles by these classically trained, modern realist painters. The gallery is located at 679 Boston Post Road, Madison near the fire station. Gallery hours are Tuesday-Saturday, 11 am to 5 pm, and any day by appointment. For further information, please call (203) 318-0616, email us at susanpowellfineart@gmail.com and visit www.susanpowellfineart.com to see works in the show. April 6 Salem Felting Artist Lori Neumann will demonstrate and walk you through steps to create your very own felted tapestry of a Spring Flower Landscape. No previous felting experience n e e de d. C l as s Fee: $85 includes all materials and guided instruction, 9am-1pm at The Red House, 22 Darling Road, Salem. Visit salemredhouse.com for more info. (860) 608-6526.

Scotch Plains Tavern, 124 Westbrook Road, Essex CT Call 860.662.4032 or visit scotchplainstavern.com April 1 – May 17 Westbrook open call exhibit “Local Vision IV” at the Valentine H. Zahn Community Gallery at Middlesex Hospital Shoreline Medical Center. The exhibition features selected works by pastel artists from throughout Connecticut. The works were chosen through an open call, curatorial process and is curated by Jan Ayer. The Gallery is open during regular business hours and is located at 250 Flat Rock Place, Westbrook, CT. For more information, contact Middlesex Health at 860-358-4065 or zahngallery@gmail.com. April 4 New London Arm Your Voice featuring Justis Lopez-“ Arm Your Voice” is a monthly poetry series features talented spoken word artists, an open mic, and an opportunity for the community to come together. This month will feature Justis Lopez, a dynamic educator, artist, and activist. Thursday April 4th, 7:00pm. Cash bar will be offered. Hygienic Gallery, 79 Bank St, New London, CT 06320

April 6, 11, 25, 26 & May 9 old Lyme events at the Lyme Art Association. Art Supply expo. On Saturday, April 6, from 10am – 3pm, the Lyme Art Association hosts the Third Annual Art Supply Expo; a marketplace of high-quality supplies and materials for artists. This event is free and open to the public. Spring Lecture Series April 11 – Deborah Quinn-Munson: Composition April 25 – Leif Nilsson - An Artist and His Process May 9 – Harry White - Art in the Garden Refreshments served at 6:30 pm, Lectures start at 7:00 pm. Fee: $5 for members and $10 for non-members. April 26 - June 7 old Lyme The Lyme Art Association presents the elected Artists exhibition, with works by the most accomplished artists of the Association, as well as an exhibition of work from the Connecticut Watercolor Society. Open Wednesday through Sunday, from 10 am – 5 pm, and by appointment. The Lyme Art Association 90 Lyme Street in Old Lyme,(860) 434-7802 for more information or visit lymeartassociation.org.

APRIL EVENTS

Month of April - essex events at Scotch Plains Tavern. Please go to our website scotchplainstavern.com for a complete list of events.


APRIL EVENTS

82 April 6 Salem Alcohol Ink Flowers. Take your alcohol ink painting to the next level. Learn how to make flowers using alcohol ink. Tools provided for use. Class Fee: $40 includes alcohol inks, ceramic tiles, Yupo paper and guided instruction, 2-5pm at The Red House, 22 Darling Road, Salem. Visit salemredhouse.com for more info. (860) 608-6526. April 12 - New London eryka ortiz Album Release Party-Celebrate the release of local musician Erycka Ortiz's first EP. The night will include a video premiere and performances by Erykca and guests. Friday, April 12th, 7:30pm Light refreshments and cash bar will be offered. Hygienic Gallery, 79 Bank St, New London, CT 06320 April 13 essex Chocolates and Pictures with the easter Bunny! All Ages Welcome! Bring your camera, we'll have ours, for pictures with our very own Easter Bunny!!! Enter our "Golden Egg" drawing for a $50 Gift Certificate to Scotch Plains Tavern! Shop our great selection of chocolates and enjoy our hot & cold drink menus. Inside Essex Chocolatier Store. Rain or Shine Saturday, April 13th from 11am-3pm Essex Chocolatier and Coffee Bar, 124 Westbrook Road April 13 Salem easter Bunny Felting. Create your very own adorable needle felted bunny. You will learn to wrap a supplied wire armature and apply basic face and body sculpting needle felt techniques. With the wire armature inside, these bunnies will be poseable. Class Fee: $65 includes glass eyes, wool and armature and use of a felting pad with an option to purchase, 9am-1pm at The Red House, 22 Darling Road, Salem. Visit salemredhouse.com for more info. (860) 608-6526. April 13 Chester Concert In The Garden. D.B. Rielly WMLB in Atlanta calls him "One of the best songwriters you've never heard of" D.B. promises his listeners an “instantaneous cure for all afflictions. Saturday, April 13, 7 - 9 pm $20 donation - BYOB and picnic - Inside the Gallery. GATES OPEN Half Hour before the show. First come first seated. Shop at the Chester Package Store across the street! Open 'til 8 pm. Sorry, no pets allowed. The Leif Nilsson Spring Street Studio and Gallery 1 Spring Street, Chester, CT 06412 (860) 526-2077 April 19 Guilford MeeT THe ARTIST SoIRee Friday, 57PM Featuring new works by renowned CT watercolorist Elizabeth Bullis-Wiese and custom woodworked signs by East River Woodworking. Also currently exhibiting recent works in oil, watercolor, photography, pottery, glass and jewelry by our eclectic and distinguished family of talented gallery artists and artisans. Light refreshments served. This event is free and open to the public. The Bird Nest • 25 Water Street • Guilford, Ct 06437 • 203.689.5745 • art@thebirdnestsalon.com Contact: Lisa Fatone, Gallery Director 203-689-5745

April 24 - May 12 Ivoryton Guess Who’s Coming To Dinner. Matt and Christina Drayton are a progressive couple living in San Francisco. It is 1967 when their daughter Joanna arrives home unexpectedly with her fiancé, Dr. John Prentice, an African American doctor 11 years her senior. They’re in love and they want the Draytons’ blessing for their marriage – today. Blindsided by their daughter ’s whirlwind romance and fearful for her future, Matt and Christina quickly come to realize the difference between reading about and supporting a mixed-race couple in your newspaper and welcoming one into your family. It’s not long before a multi-family clash of racial and generational difference erupts. At the end of the day, will love prevail? Email: info@ivorytonplayhouse.org Theatre Address: 103 Main Street Ivoryton, CT 06442 Box Office Phone: 860.767.7318 April 27 - New London Group Therapy & Co'opt Collab-Join us for the opening reception of two exhibits featuring the Hygienic Resident Artists, and members of the Fiddleheads Cooperative. Saturday, April 27th, 5:30- 8:30pm. Show runs through May 25th. Light refreshments and cash bar will be offered. Hygienic Gallery, 79 Bank St, New London, CT 06320 April 27 - 28 Waterford “ART IN WATeRFoRD" Past + Present + Future Appreciate Waterford’s art history through outstanding examples of art from the last two centuries; cartoons, 3-D objects, and paintings. More contemporary artwork includes the sculpture of Fran Violante and oil paintings by Leif Nilsson and many more offerings by local artists. Create your own art, no matter your age! Enjoy and dance to live music and tour historic buildings. Free event presented by the Waterford Historical Society, Saturday, April 27 and Sunday April 28 From 10:00 am to 4:00 pm at the Jordan Green: corner of Route 156 a & Route 213 (besides Waterford Public Library) Free Parking at the Waterford Community Center, 24 Rope Ferry Road, (860) 389-7529 www.waterfordcthistoricalsociety.org April 28 Middletown Daffodil Day. A plethora of daffodils might be in bloom to greet visitors as they follow the entrance drive leading to the Beaux Art style mansion for this annual celebration of spring. Guests are encouraged to enjoy the meadows planted by volunteers over the last decade. Throughout the afternoon, there will be numerous activities that include kite flying, nature exploration, live music, and a comedy variety show for children. Enjoy delicious food from a variety of food trucks in the oval. Docents will lead guided tours of the Mansion providing a narrative that details the history of the Estate. Furniture donated by the Wadsworth Family will be on display in the History Room.Sunday, April 28, 2019, 1:00PM – 4:00PM, Fre. The Wadsworth Mansion, 421 Wadsworth Street, Middletown, CT 06457.


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Easter Brunch Sunday, April 21, 2019

Saturday, April 6 A Tribute to

Friday, April 12 A Tribute to

A Tribute to

Elton John Performed by

The Linda Ronstadt Experience

Saturday, April 20

Performed by

Yellow Brick Road

Friday, April 26 A Tribute to

The Rolling Dave Rolling Stones Stones Matthews Band Dave Matthews Performed by Performed by

Crowded Streets Robert Black

Performed by

Satisfaction

For Details & Reservations: WatersEdgeResortandSpa.com 1525 Boston Post Rd Westbrook, CT 06498 (860) 399-5901



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It\u2019s All From Scratch at Dough on Main

8min
pages 10-13

Mastering a Balancing Act: Cindy Stevens Fine Art

6min
pages 18-21

Not Narcissus Great Egret, St. Augustine, Florida

4min
pages 24-25

Livin\u2019 Large On and Off the Tracks... The photography of Beebe and Clegg

7min
pages 30-35

Traveler Food and Books - \u201CLunch with Baldwin, with a Book by King\u201D

7min
pages 42-47

American Vinyl All Star Band\u00A0 Old School Cool Just As Hot As Ever

4min
pages 50-51

Leaving an \u201CImpression\u201D on Art in America The Havemeyers of Greenwich

8min
pages 54-59

10 Islands,13 Days: Adventure Aboard a Freighter in French Polynesia

8min
pages 64-69

The CheeseMonger - National Fondue Day

4min
pages 72-73

Germany, another one of Europe\u2019s great wine producing countries.

2min
pages 74-75

Life on Sugar - Spring-ing Ahead

2min
pages 76-77

Food Thoughts from Italy - PASTA FRESCA

4min
pages 78-79
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