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T H E E N G L I S H - L A N G U A G E M O N T H LY
7 COME TO THE CABARET
features arts &culture
All you need to know about Madrid’s International Literary Cabaret
14 Month Ahead
7 BEING SMART WITH YOUR SMARTPHONE A short guide to low-cost mobile phone providers
Art & theatre listings
AIRLINES RYANAIR, back cover
BARS ANGLET CAFÉ, p13 CAF´É GALDOS, p9
16 Concerts
8 I WISH I HADN’T DONE THAT!
Our pick of this month’s gigs
Expats confess their mistakes and blunders on arriving in the city
ad index
MI MADRE ERA UNA GROUPIE, p9 PICNIC, p17 TABERNA CHICA, p13
16 Album reviews
9 THE NUMBER GAME
Grises, Marissa Nadler, Beirut, Jay Z and Kanye West
The trials and tribulations of getting an NIE
TEMPLO DEL GATO, p13 TERRA NOVA, p15 TUPPERWARE, p17 SIDERAL, p9
10 SPORT: EVERYTHING TO PLAY FOR
17 Nightlife 18 Movie reviews New releases on the big screen
The city behind the film, The Three Musketeers
18 Book Buzz
11 LOOK WHAT YOU’VE SAID
STEREO POP, p9
The most up-to-date clubbing guide
A team preview of the new five-a-side IFL Madrid soccer season
11 MADE IN MADRID
SOUL STATION, p15
New titles for your shelf
The origin of the phrase “Castles in Spain”
CINEMAS YELMO CINES IDEAL , p6
DENTISTS AZUARA DENTAL CLINIC, P8 CISNE DENTAL, ENGLISH DENTIST, p8
11 THE OTHERS Anglos working beyond the realms of English teaching
12 FROM PG TIPS TO PUMPERNICKEL Where to buy British and German ingredients in Madrid
13 FISH, NOT FISHY Removing the mystery from Spanish fish menus
outandabout 4
Scene WHAT’S NEW IN TOWN
5
Mad World MADRID
JOB OFFERS See Service Guide for job offers, p21-22
LANGUAGE SERVICES See Service Guide, p20-21
RANDOMNESS!
15 MUSIC: COOL CATS’ TALE
6
Another Fine Mes THE MONTH’S NEWS DIGESTED
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The many styles of Jenny and the Mexicats
MEDICAL SERVICES UNIDAD MEDICA , inside front cover
5 Great Places... TO RELAX IN A CITY SPA
11 Streetwise WHAT’S IN A NAME?
PUBS DUBLINERS, p9 IRISH ROVER, p5 O’NEILL’S, inside front cover
12 Food & Drink ¡POUR FAVOR! RESTAURANTS
e all make mistakes. I assumed August editor’s note would be quiet in Madrid, and it was, until about 1.4 million visitors arrived on the 16th. How I longed for some peace, tranquility and shares in tel: 91 523 30 91 companies that made flags, hats and T-shirts. We stick email: with mistakes this issue, having interrogated expats editor@in-madrid.com about the embarrassing errors they’ve made in the city (P8). On an informative note, Andrew Sheehan’s guide to low-cost mobile providers (P7) and Tom Garton’s guide to getting an NIE (P9) should interest newcomers and long term residents alike, while Leah Rodrigues helps with Spanish fish menus (P12). Plus, for music fans, Richard Lewington meets Madrid band Jenny & the Mexicats (P15). Finally, would it be a mistake to encourage the trend that engulfed the Metro during the 16-21 August? I think so. In confined spaces, large groups of happy people breaking into song can be intimidating.
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InMadrid
ARTEMISA, p13
regulars
CRUCINA, p13
19 RESTAURANT GUIDE 20 SERVICE GUIDE 23 CLASSIFIEDS
MIL Y UNA NOCHES, p12
Want to contribute to InMadrid? Or how about being an intern? If you’re interested in collaborating, send your CV, samples of journalistic writing and ideas for articles to editor@in-madrid.com
EL ESTRAGÓN, p12
See Restaurant Guide, p19
Want to advertise in InMadrid? Quieres anunciar en InMadrid? Email us! ¡Escribenos! marketing@in-madrid.com Call us! ¡Llamanos! 91 523 30 91
PUBLISHED BY: CITYSCOPE S.L. (UNIPERSONAL) MANAGING DIRECTOR: NICK HAUGHTON • EDITOR: JEFF WISEMAN • DESIGN: KNIC • MARKETING AND SALES: marketing@in-madrid.com • ADMIN: ELENA ORTIZ • ART: ELENA RODEMANN • MUSIC (REVIEWS): RUSSELL PARTON • MUSIC (GIGS): MAGDA GAMEEL • NEWS: MARTIN DELFIN • NIGHTLIFE: RICHARD LEWINGTON • SCENE: LAURA EDGECUMBE-ANSDELL • THEATRE: HARRIET SMART • INTERNS: VICKY KNILL, TOM GARTON, GUILLERMO ULIBARRI, LUCY WILLIAMS, MAGDA GAMEEL, HARRIET SMART, NATALIA DIAZ, PATRICK FLETCHER, JESSICA RUIZ • THANKS TO: LAURA EDGECUMBE-ANDSELL, NICK FUNNELL • WEBMASTER: KNIC • PRINT: IMCODAVILA
STAFF
Views expressed in InMadrid are the opinions of the writers and are not necessarily endorsed by the publishers. Although we make every effort to quote the correct prices and opening hours for establishments mentioned in the magazine, it is possible some may have changed since we went to press. All advertisements are published in good faith. InMadrid cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions in individual ads or accept responsibility for work, service or goods. InMadrid is published by CityScope SL (unipersonal), c/Marqués de Valdeiglesias, 6-4ºA — 28004 Madrid. Unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and artwork will not be returned unless accompanied by sufficient postage. D.L.: M-11696-96.
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SEPTEMBER 2011
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scene
Check out 15 emeging circus artists at CRECE 2011, a celebration of dance and circus disciplines, running at Circo Price from 21 Sep-2 Oct. See www.teatrocircoprice.es
■ BY LAURA EDGECUMBE-ANSDELL
Important notice for US nationals According to the group Democrats Abroad, a significant new US law has been passed that may affect the families of US citizens returning to the US. Effective since 15 August 2011, most Americans will no longer be able to use the US Consular Sections in their country of residence for immigration matters. The US Citizenship and Immigration Service (USCIS) will require that you petition directly with the USCIS in the United States to bring your foreign family with you when you choose to move back to the US. For more information about how this may affect you see www.democratsabroad.org
Getafe Open Air Festival With a capacity of more than 50,000 people, this year the Getafe Open Air Festival has a number of big names in the line-up, including 1980s bands Bad Manners and The Specials, 1990s rockers The Offspring, English punk rockers The Toy Dolls, and Spanish heavy metal group Mägo de Oz. The three-day music feast has three separate stages, each one dedicated to a different genre. Getafe Open Air Festival, Cerro de los Ángeles, Getafe. 8-10 Sept. Three-day ticket (inc. camping) 35 in advance. Box office: 45. See http://envivofestival.com/2011/
Agatha Ruiz de la Prada
September Fashion Fest Cibeles Fashion Week hits the capital from 16-20 September, a veritable feast of associated fashion events for the public. Whether you just want to check out the latest trends or to partake in some serious retail therapy Madrid is the place to be for fashionistas. Fashion shows take place throughout the week at IFEMA. See http://www.ifema.es/ferias/ cibeles/default.html
English punk rockers, The Toy Dolls are on the line-up for the Getafe Open Air Festival
Festibike
Volar, pararse…sentir
The eleventh bicycle festival promises to be more innovative and active than ever. Celebrated every September, this year there’s a new location, Las Rozas, which organizers hope will allow for
Six years after her last exhibition in Madrid, prizewinning neoimpressionist artist Paloma Hinojosa returns this month with her latest showcase Volar, pararse… sentir (Flying, stopping… feeling). Hinojosa is regarded as a pioneer and has shown her work Plaza de Paris in galleries in Paris, Chicago, San Francisco and Altanta. She portrays snowy landscapes, sunsets on the beach, garden parties and night scenes of calm seas using colour to convey her feelings. “It is supposed to be the exhibition with more large format works in keeping with my essence, where the greys are disappearing to make way for new and vibrant colours with more expressive power than ever,” she says.Volar, parase…sentir, Casa de Vacas, Parque de El Retiro, (Metro: Retiro) 1-30 Sept, 10am-9pm.
Vogue España Fashion Night Out For the third consecutive year Vogue España has sponsored Madrid’s Fashion Night Out which sees hundreds of stores across the capital open for late night shopping. The event promises to be huge with a turnout of 40,000 shoppers and a host of celebrities. Brands participating include big names in Spanish and international design such as Dior, Camper, Bershka, Massimo Dutti, Zara, Burberry and Loewe. Bobbi Brown, the cosmetics firm, will offer free makeovers at El Corte Inglés stores and there will also be a chance to see your photo published in Vogue, taken by the magazine’s photographers. So for a taste of celebrity life and your 15 minutes of fame, don your coolest outfit and head to the streets of Fuencarral and Ortega y Gasset for a chance at getting snapped by the paps. Madrid’s Fashion Night Out, 7 September. For full list of participating stores and events see www.vogue.es/fashionsnightout
Coma’11 Internacional Festival This annual music festival is a showcase of works by Madrid’s modern-day composers. The festival features concerts, round table discussions and debates about contemporary music. Artists involved include Orquesta de Cámara Sic, conducted by Sebastián Mariné, the ensemble Mad4clarinets, also led by Mariné, and the Cuarteto Areteia which will perform works by composers such as Tomás Marco, Antón García Abril and José Luis Turina, among others. Coma’11 Internacional Festival, Sala Verde, Teatros del Canal, C/Cea Bermúdez, 1 (Metro: Canal). 25 Sept, 2 and 30 Oct. Entrance: free. See www.teatroscanal.com
more exciting activities and events for festival-goers to enjoy. Attractions include electric and children’s bikes, a bike park, dirt jump and bike trial. The pine wood at Navalcarbón, next to the fair area, will be the centre for most of the activities. Its pathways and tracks all make for a very challenging course. Festibike promise a great family atmosphere for all those who are interested in cycling. Festibike, Recinto Ferial Nuestra Señora del Retamar, Avda. Navalcarbón s/n, Las Rozas. 17 Sept, 10am-8pm; 18 Sept, 10am-5pm. See www.festibike.com.
The Scotsmen’s Tavern Madrid-based blues band Blue Identity form part of an innovative artistic collective known as “The Scotsmen’s Tavern”, and La Taberna del Escocés: Los Cuentos is a book of short stories, in Spanish, based on the mysterious characters they have created. The book is the work of ten Spanish writers, who met through the online blog of El País, two of whom are published authors. Each character has been brought to life in a cartoon and a Blue Identity song. See http://www.nuevos escritores.es/libros/la-taberna-delescoces-los-cuentos.html
October Issue Launch Party Set the date in your diary—our October launch party will take place on Thursday 29 September, from 8pm til late, at our regular venue of the Taberna Elisa, C/Santa Maria, 42. It’s a chance to meet, chat (in English and Spanish), drink and be happy, all of which will be enhanced by live music, plus the chance to win Yelmo Cine Ideal tickets and other surprise prizes. See you there! Our monthly InMadrid Launch party — not to be missed!
Tips from the Tower Photo (CC) flickr: WipleyBrainSins
Helpful monthly advice from the British Consulate office in Pº de la Castellana’s Torre Espacio
Billed as the most important video game fair in Europe, Gamefest, as its name suggests, will be a virtual paradise for gamers. Dedicated to video games, next-generation consoles and everything in-between, the event promises to astound with 16,200 square metres of space dedicated to the most recent technology, creativity and trends in the market. Video game buffs will have the opportunity to practice their moves and give their thumbs a workout on the best new offerings from brand names such as Sony PlayStation, EA, Nintendo and Sega, as well as getting a preview of forthcoming titles. Gamefest 2011, Pavillion 3, IFEMA, Parque Ferial Juan Carlos I, Avenida del Partenón 10 (Metro: Campo de las Naciones). 29 Sept-2 Oct. Entrance: 6-8. For more information see www.gamefest.es
Are you having trouble getting your head round the paperwork in Spain? Can’t tell your TGSS (Tesoreria General de la Seguridad Social) from your INSS (Instituto Nacional de la Seguridad Social)? Don’t panic! The British Consulate’s website has a wealth of information and links to the authorities that are in charge of assigning social security numbers, managing benefit claims and informing you about how to access healthcare. You may not know that if you’ve paid social security contributions in Spain, you might be able to claim unemployment benefit, and that your UK contributions might even be taken into account. Or that if you’ve worked here for over a year you could be entitled to a Spanish state pension. As far as the Spanish health system and access to medical treatment are concerned, in Spain, unlike in the UK, being resident isn’t enough and you have to pay into the system in order to benefit from it. For more details, check out the Pensions, Benefits and Healthcare pages on ukinspain.fco.gov.uk. Also, whether you’re planning to be in Spain for a long time, a good time, or both, do your research and check any employment contracts you may be offered, as paying Spanish social security contributions and being eligible for the corresponding benefits may turn out to be one of the best decisions you ever made.
Gamefest 2011
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mwoarldd w
Top Ten Chat-Up Lines For Madrid With many newcomers to the city this month, we thought we’d have some fun with chat-up lines, most with a distinctly madrileño flavour. Of course, we couldn’t possibly recommend using any of the following, but if you happen to chance your luck, don’t forget to let us know how you get on:
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I’m new to Madrid. Would you show me your wonderful bear figure?
2
Did you know that in the UK, a Spanish bedroom with an ensuite bathroom is called a cama-khazi?
3
With a girl/guy as cute as you in Madrid, why does everyone keep visiting the pandas at the zoo?
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You must be the woman/man who put the “flame” in flamenco.
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The way you roll your ‘r’s really turns me on. By the way, my name’s Richard Roger Rarrarutherford.
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If the world was a giant paella, you’d be its most beautiful prawn.
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You’re a living Madrid Metro map—your skin is like a Mar de Cristal, your lips are Delicias, and to be honest you’ve really raised my Esperanza.
Awww
CC) flickr: AndyLawson
And three variations, depending how much you dare risk:
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Your face reminds me of Madrid—it’s beautiful, sunny and charming.
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Your face reminds me of Madrid—it’s full of lines like the Metro map.
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Your face reminds me of Madrid—it’ll be nice when all the work is finished.
WIN TICKETS TO MADRID’S PREMIER V.O. CINEMA PLUS 2 FLIGHTS TO THE EUROPEAN DESTINATION OF YOUR CHOICE!!! Just send us a photo of someone reading InMadrid in an unusual place to have the possibility of winning one of FIVE pairs of tickets to the Yelmo Cine Ideal in Plaza Benavente, Madrid’s premier VO Cinema where you can see all the latest flicks in English. There are two ways to enter: to our email address (competitions@in-madrid.com) to have the chance of winning cinema tickets only, BUT the competition can also be entered on our facebook page, where your photo will also have the possibility of winning the tickets and Ryanair flights to the European destination of your choice too!
T H E E N G L I S H - L A N G U A G E M O N T H LY
By Leo “Majo” Drape
Christian Guilt Trip (Part 2) There I was, shivering, impatiently awaiting the result of a test that would change my life forever. I could feel a dribble of sweat making its way down my forehead. Next to me, Jerome was reading Proust (like the pretentious A-hole that he is), unfazed—his chakras nicely aligned. A life of sins flashed before my eyes. I remembered all the times when I carelessly pleasured random strangers. When I blacked out and couldn’t remember what I had done the previous night and how much fun it had been. But I was being punished. I had pissed off the big man in the sky. Would He have mercy? I doubted it. The nurse, who pricked my finger and placed the blood on a tester that would, in twenty minutes or so, reveal my fate, ushered me back into her room with a look of concern. I remember taking similar tests back in the UK. While waiting for the result, the nurse would talk to you about safe sex practices and ask you all kinds of questions, as well as letting you know about the latest advances in treatment. There was none of that here. She just abandoned me in the waiting room, surrounded by people bleeding and cursing, with Jerome, completely engrossed in his novel who, every time he turned a page, kept telling me that everything was going to be fine (liar!). Soon back in with the nurse, I grew paler by the second. She grabbed the phone and said she needed to get someone else in. I was doomed! As it turned out, she didn’t know how to read the result, most probably because her slow brain hadn’t learned to read colours. She showed me the charts, asking me what I thought. She was asking ME what the result was! I wanted to rip her head off and shove it where the sun doesn’t shine! This was absolutely ridiculous. Thankfully a second nurse came in; she glimpsed at it and said it was negative. I fell to the floor, relieved. God had heard me! I was saved! But I still had to go back to the homophobic doctor who, on finding out the test was negative, seemed displeased. She never actually looked me in the eyes; she just frowned and while tapping on her keyboard, mumbled that it might just be a benign respiratory infection that could be fixed with a simple spray. I visualised standing up and strangling the bitch. Instead, I stood up and, doing my best imitation of a drag queen, snapped my fingers in her face. As I walked out, Jerome smiled at me: one of those smiles that are supposed to make you feel better. A smile that says: “See, everything is fine. Let’s go home and have some tea.” I wanted to punch him in the face. That atheist doesn’t know the devouring turmoil that goes on inside a Christian’s heart. The never-ending guilt that rots our souls and that can only be suffocated by large amounts of booze. So I got home and opened a bottle of vodka. For more FAIRY TALES, check: www.jerome-apolda.com Or join me on facebook.
Find us on facebook: www.facebook.com/InMadrid.magazine
Fairy Tales
This month’s winner: InMadrid in London by Jóse
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Another fine mes
Catch “Flamenco por Lorca”, at 9pm on Mon 26 Sept, Teatro Compac Gran Vía. Raúl Ortega & Company dance to raise money for the Lorca earthquake victims.
Marty Delfín dissects the past month’s news headlines
Much turbulence The European Central Bank’s attempted rescue of the Spanish and Italian debt markets wasn’t enough to calm the European financial centres on 8 August. Global stock markets were violently dragged down by the surprise announcement coming out of the United States that Standard & Poor’s rating agency was downgrading US bonds from AAA to AA+ for the first time in 70 years. During the first week of August, the Spanish risk premium, the difference in yield between Spanish and benchmark German ten year bonds, spiked well above the psychological 400-limit on four occasions. By the following Monday, after the ECB announced that it would actively purchase Spanish and Italian debt to head off contagion in the euro zone and calm the situation, the money markets failed to react accordingly and stocks fell sharply on the blue chip Ibex-35 to a new annual low.
Photo: (CC) flickr: Katrin.Tuliao
Jean-Claude Trichet, the ECB president, said that the Central Bank was purchasing debt on the secondary markets and not directly from the distressed states, such as Spain, Italy, Portugal and Ireland. Still, the unprecedented debt-buying spree—rumoured to be around 5 billion in Spanish and Italian bonds—may eventually cause some financial turbulence for the euro zone’s economic giants, Germany and France. By Friday,
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12 August, the Spanish markets were calm, even showing some gains after nine days of consecutive losses. But the rollercoaster ride is expected to continue.
Changing his mind Prime Minister José Luis Rodríguez Zapatero ended all the speculation and announced on 29 July that elections will be held on 20 November. The move by Zapatero, who had been insistent on riding out his term until March, took many of his Cabinet officials by surprise, and only a week earlier Justice Minister Francisco Caamaño had told reporters that he was working on pending legislation that would keep lawmakers busy until next spring. This included a speedy trial act and changes to current laws to reform criminal and civil trial procedures. However, the outcome of many other important pieces of legislation, such as greater government transparency and guarantees for public access to official documents, now remains uncertain. Why did Zapatero decide to change his mind and make his announcement before the summer break? The Socialists know that this is likely to be the best time to call the race, four months before the general elections are scheduled. It is more a political gamble than an economic decision. Alfredo Pérez Rubalcaba, the Socialist candidate, continues to have a better showing in polls over Mariano Rajoy of the Popular Party, although the latest poll released just days before the Prime Minister’s announcement suggested that the PP would still win by seven points if the elections were held immediately. The same poll, by the state-run Centre for Sociological Investigations (CIS), also maintains that the Socialists have cut the PP’s lead by three points since April. Zapatero says he spoke “to everyone I needed” before making his decision to hold the elections early. Whoever wins will have to scurry to prepare the 2012 budget, which promises to be lean and austere. As the markets went awry in early August, some questioned whether Zapatero should dissolve parliament even earlier so he could schedule the elections for October.
Winning back the square In the early hours of 2 August, police moved into the Puerta del Sol and ousted the several dozen May 15 Movement protesters who had been camped there for nearly three months. It was a surprise move by the Madrid police force that set off an even more unexpected response by demonstrators. For four days,
W W W. I N M A D R I D . C O M
Standoff at Sol
Photo (CC) flickr: ibm4381
thousands gathered around the capital’s main plaza in a faceto-face standoff with riot police. Moments of tension were reported, including some scuffles, and some arrests were made. Madrid city officials had been trying to get the Interior Ministry to back them in their action for a number of weeks, but Alfredo Pérez Rubalcaba, the Socialist candidate who stepped down as minister in early July after he announced that he was running in the general elections, had refused to comply with city hall’s wishes. “Police are here to solve problems, not create them,” Rubalcaba said then. But his successor, Antonio Camacho, who reportedly was also reluctant, gave in only after Mayor Alberto Ruiz-Gallardón threatened to take him to court for not complying with his official duties. Marches were held throughout the city as protesters tried to converge in Puerta del Sol. The four-day standoff also caused many businesses to lose millions. Then suddenly on 5 August, the police backed off and the May 15 Movement was once again firmly implanted in the plaza. A massive rally was held that Friday evening attracting as many as 5,000 people who rejoiced in their victory. The battle for the square seems over—for now.
T H E E N G L I S H - L A N G U A G E M O N T H LY
Come to the Cabaret Looking for a venue to showcase your literary talent? Jennifer Walker reports on a night where variety and spontaneity rule
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ust a stone’s throw from the Plaza del dos de Mayo, in the heart of Malasaña, Café Isadora is more than another bar among many in the twisting downtown streets. With its inviting, vintage feel, made up of booths sporting red velvet upholstery lined above with antique mirrors and ballet prints, the Café is a keen participant in Madrid’s international literary community. The theatre-style decor proves appropriate on every third Tuesday of the month, when it hosts the International Literary Cabaret, an evening that pulsates with the spoken word spun with various accents, and resonates with song or the sound of the acoustic guitar. The Cabaret grew from the Madrid Writers’ Critique Group—expat and Spanish writers who convene every Tuesday at the café—as a medium through which actors, writers and musicians could showcase their work. While there are similar readings around the city, the Cabaret wanted a regular and informal night reflecting the freedom on which the original Group was built. The night has become something more than just another poetry reading, encompassing and embracing many performance arts, from music to song, and from play to poem and short story. The work may be personal or from an author you admire, and within reason anything goes, although thirty-minute readings of Julius Caesar’s The Gallic Wars are perhaps unwise.
have included a ten-minute play, Beyond the Gates, written and performed by Katrina Spencer, which also featured Lance Tooks and Sebastian López; a recital by well-known composer and contemporary classical guitarist, Anthony Ocaña, and an aria performed a capella from the Puccini Opera Gianni Schicchi by American soprano, Judith Rodriguez.
Group energy Before the summer break, the June event met with great success. As a writer myself, I hosted the night together with performance artist Eboli de Mer, beginning with a bilingual introduction about how the Cabaret operates. The evening opened with a reading of Sue Burke’s award winning short story, The Souvenir You Most Want, followed by Jez Patterson’s, The Lessons of the Animals, a funny tale written to amuse and warm the hearts of children and adults alike. “What I like is the variety and energy!” commented Sue. The tone was changed by poet Celia A Knight, who brought some delicate sensuality to the evening with her work. Drama then prevailed as Spanish actress and writer, Matilde Fluixá, had adapted a scene from the novel, Garras de Astracán, by Catalan writer Terenci Moix, into a short play, which was performed by her, Eboli de Mer and Charlie Sangster. Other highlights included an a capella rendition of George Gershwin’s Someone to Watch Over Me, by Arizonaborn soprano Kathleen Berger, and a dynamic performance of original poetry by Daniel Vincent from London, for whom it was a new experience. “As a firsttime participant, I found it an intimate and welcoming group,” he said, “and I heard some excellent poetry and fiction.” The night was well-received by participants and audience. “The Cabaret evenings reveal our passions and interests,” said Celia A Knight, having completed her poetry reading, “It was exciting to have a larger crowd than usual—more eclectic and more vivacious.” A Cabaret observer, opera singer Michael Callas, was equally enthusiastic. “I felt as though I was in a veritable literary no-judgement zone, a convergence of people, accents and ideas. We could’ve been anywhere in the world.”
Involvement Words and music The International Literary Cabaret made its debut in October 2010, and its immediate success ensured its continuation as a monthly event thereafter. Each night has seen varied content and turn out; some events were very popular and full of fresh faces, while others have been more intimate. Performances are decided on the night, there is no formal sign up, and each event is guaranteed to be spontaneous and different. Literary presentations are equally appreciated whether in English or Spanish, but the Cabaret also welcomes musicians and actors. Past performances
The International Literary Cabaret is open to all who love literature and the arts. You needn’t be a budding poet or a talented writer to take part—many people come along to watch and experience the atmosphere. Of course, if you’re feeling adventurous, you can opt to read your favourite poem, or sing your favourite aria or song. There are no formal rules, just turn up on the night and volunteer. Entrance is free and the night is really informal and friendly, and a great opportunity to meet people with similar interests. What good is sitting alone in your room? Come to The International Literary Cabaret—the next meeting takes place on 20 September!
Being smart with your smartphone Looking for low-cost mobile providers? Andrew Sheehan tries to find the best deals available Many newcomers arrive in Spain already owning a smartphone, which ideally they would like to continue using. However, getting data service through one of the major operators usually involves signing a lengthy contract, which often means purchasing a new smartphone altogether. This may work for those that are due for a phone upgrade, but what about those who just want to use their current phone? A solution can be found in low-cost mobile companies that provide data/voice plans that usually undercut the major operators. Who are the low cost lovelies?
Pepephone Pepephone is perfect for users who already have the phone but just need the connection. The company’s tarif Ratoncito y Elefante (Little Mouse and Elephant) offers 501mb of 3G data for 6.90 per month and 2.9 céntimos per minute for voice calls. A 15c connection fee applies to calls, and SMS messages are 9c each. If you go over 501mb per month, you will be charged 3c per additional MB downloaded. Pepephone will also mail your new sim card to your home free of charge. There is no permanencia or minimum contract length with Pepephone, meaning you can cancel your service whenever you like.
Yoigo Yoigo offers a larger variety of plans to choose from than Pepephone. Its voice plans range form 6-19 per month with a connection fee of 15c per call, and there are also 3G data plans of either 500MB ( 8) or 1GB ( 15) monthly. Once you’ve used up your allotted data, your internet speed will be reduced to 64kbps. SMS Messages cost 8c to 10c depending on your voice plan. The internet plan is an optional add-on and can be cancelled at any time. Yoigo does require a permanencia period, normally 18 months.
MÁSmovil Our third option is MÁSmovil, which can provide cheap voice and data plans. Like Pepephone, MÁSmovil does not require a permanencia. It offers some attractive voice rates ranging from 3c to 8c per minute. Miminum consumption (the minimum you will be charged each month) varies upon the amount you pay per minute. The less you pay per minute, the higher your minimum consumption, ranging from 4 to 19 monthly, with a 15c connection fee. MÁSmovil offers internet plans of 150MB, 300MB, and 500MB per month, with prices of 3, 5, and 8 respectively. Once you’ve used up your purchased amount of data, you will be charged 3c per megabyte. SMS messages with MÁSmovil cost 8c on all plans. This is the only company of the three that has its website available in English. Finally, remember that your mobile phone will need to be unlocked in order to work on these networks. If you’re unfamiliar with how to do that, just Google “unlock” and your phone type (iphone, galaxy etc.). Many phone shops around Madrid will perform phone unlocks for a small fee—look for signs that say libera móviles. All that’s left is to pick the plan that works for you!
By Camino Martínez
Five great places to..... relax in a city spa Looking for somewhere to relieve the stress, noise, pace and heat of the city? The following five spas may bring you the peace, quiet and revitalisation you seek
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Agua y bien. Located in Barrio de la Concepción, this spa opened several years ago. Customers will find a thermal bath circuit in which to tone up, cleanse and relax their bodies. The circuit, which takes one hour and a half to complete, has a hydromassage pool, a thermal bath to eliminate toxins, a foot pool with rolling stones to walk over (to activate the blood flow), a shower with water jets and, finally, another shower with essential oils to tone up the skin. They offer various other treatments, including massages with mud, bath salts, oils, flowers, stones, and bamboo. Calle de Martínez Villergas, 16. (Metro: Barrio de la Concepción). Tel: 91 403 31 73 and 680 169 896. www.aguaybien.es. Mon-Sun, 10am-10pm. Diacqua. Close to Retiro park, this spa dedicates itself to the relaxation of its clients by giving them the chance to relieve stress in its hydromassage pool, roman bath, and various invigorating showers. At the end of this relaxing journey, an ecological and revitalising fruit juice awaits. Besides its massages, Diacqua has several booking packages, so that clients can enjoy the facilities with a partner. One of the most popular is for couples, which includes a thermal bath circuit, a relaxing massage with champagne and chocolates, and finally a romantic supper! Calle de Conde de Aranda, 14. (Metro: Retiro). Tel: 91 578 43 87 and 605 252 733. www.diacqua.net. Mon-Fri, 12am-9pm; Sat, 12am-9.30pm.
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Másqueagua. If you’re looking for a place to fight fatigue and physical or mental stress, this central spa near Bilbao could be the perfect option. Másqueagua has a complete thermal circuit along with separate rooms for treatment and massage. This spa, with three other branches in the city, claims the best technologies and products, like natural oils, mud from the Black Sea, marine salts and seaweed. They can also arrange original and health-orientated hen/stag parties with a thermal tour, a massage/treatment, lovely food to eat in the rest area and cocktails! Calle de Manuel Cortina, 5. (Metro: Bilbao and Alonso Martínez). Tel. 91 445 53 31 and 650 635 061. www.masqueagua.es. Mon-Sun, 10am-10pm.
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Spacio Deportivo El Capricho. The biggest urban spa in Madrid, this huge establishment, with around 20.000 m² of floor space, is situated in Alameda de Osuna, just in front of the stunning and historical El Capricho park. This “well-being school”, as the owners call it, promotes exercise with water, housing a gym area, a large spa with jacuzzi, Finnish sauna, Turkish bath, waterfalls, thermal showers and several thematic swimming pools. As well as relaxing, people can keep in shape by attending its fun aqua fitness classes. Calle de La Rioja, s/n. (Metro: El Capricho). Tel: 91 742 59 67. www.spaciodeportivo.com. Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm, 5-8.30pm; Sat and Sun, 11am-1.30pm. W W W. I N M A D R I D . C O M
Sanctuary Spa
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The Sanctuary City Spa. Elegant and minimalist decoration with seductive lighting are to be found in this urban spa, located in Chamberí. Its thermal circuit lasts for 75 minutes, taking in temptations like bubble and waterfall springs, four saunas (Finnish, Roman, Celtic and Arab) and a charming room where you can lie down and enjoy fruit juices or teas. The session is guided, on an individual basis, so clients can relax on their own. Afterwards, a massage is available and, if desired, a facial or body treatment, as the establishment is also an aesthetic centre. Calle de Ponzano, 37. (Metro: Alonso Cano and Ríos Rosas). Tel: 91 399 59 88 and 601 025 584. www.thesanctuary.es. Tues-Sat, 10am-10pm; Mon and Sun, 11am-9pm.
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I wish I hadn’t done that! With differences in culture, food, behaviour and regulations, everyone manages to put their foot in it when they arrive in an unfamiliar city. So Harriet Smart and Magda Gameel decided to quiz some expats in Madrid about their embarrassing errors
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ost people underestimate the diversity of mistakes that can be made when arriving in a foreign country. There’ll be incomprehensible menus, language and vocabulary problems, odd rules and a minefield of bureaucracy; and if you survive all of those, you can still lose your bearings with terrifying ease. Mistakes made abroad can seem either hysterical or, if you are feeling fragile in your new environment, make you want to get on the first flight home. Nevertheless, there are always those who weather the storm, stay, and are bold enough to own up to their errors. Thankfully, we’ve managed to find a few of them:
Andrea, 21, from Glasgow
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I went into a clothes shop in Calle Atocha, but they refused to serve me. My Spanish wasn’t too good, but I could figure out that they were telling me to go to another shop. My father is Brazilian and in a moment of madness I became hysterically convinced that I was a victim of racial discrimination! I gave them a piece of my mind and stormed out. Only when I told a Spanish friend did I find out the problem—even though it looked like a normal shop, it was a Venta al mayor, a wholesalers, and not a shop that only serves white people! In the UK wholesalers don’t have premises that look like normal shops!
Mike, 26, from Derby I didn’t really understand the difference between tapas— small—and raciones—big! I confidently sat by myself on a restaurant terraza, and ordered two raciones. The odd look from the waiter should have given me a clue that I’d cocked something up, and sure enough when the two dishes arrived they were enormous. Worse than that, my choices turned out to be two varieties of chorizo. Rather than admit my mistake, pride got the better of me, and I ploughed through both. After paying, I staggered away feeling bloated and stupid in equal measure.
Kiss and tell
I turned up at a restaurant in the evening to eat at 7 o’clock, and there was nobody there. It took me a while to realise that no one goes out until about 11 here!
Jack, 20, from St Albans
Sarah, 23, from London
Katie, 31, from Lancaster
I think the most amusing mistake I’ve made in Madrid was dawdling for too long on Calle Montera, just off Sol, and being approached by a prostitute, which was a bit of a harrowing experience in the middle of the day. My advice would be to keep your head down and keep walking, unless you want to be approached by a lady in a very short skirt. The day I arrived at Barajas I was heavily-clothed because the weather was cold in the UK. In Madrid, it was baking. I struggled with my suitcase to the family apartment where I’d rented a room. The woman opened the door, and asked me how I was. I replied “Estoy muy caliente”, not knowing that in that context it meant horny, not hot. Not the best of starts.
Eric, 28, from Edinburgh When I arrived in Madrid my Spanish was almost non-existent. I went into a baker’s to ask for a bocadillo. I came out with a can of Coca-Cola. I still don’t know what went wrong but my Spanish wasn’t good enough to put the matter right!
Alice, 23, from London The worst thing I can remember was ordering callos on a Menú del Día, thinking it would be a yummy traditional dish. It turned out to be tripe, chickpeas and chorizo. Definitely a typical dish, but definitely not yummy!
Paula, 22 from Germany It didn’t directly happen to me, but I once had a very awkward situation in my language school here. Our teacher had told us to write a short text about our breakfast. One German girl started reading out hers: “Para desayuno tengo un bocadillo con jamón…”, and then it happened, “…y cojones”. The class, including our teacher, burst out laughing. The explanation: the alternative slang in Spanish for cojones (balls/bollocks) is huevos (eggs). Hence the confusion. SEPTEMBER 2011
The biggest mistake I made in Madrid was to go for a Sunday afternoon stroll by the Prado without a map. I had no idea where I was, but I now realize that I was somewhere south of Atocha. I got so lost that I didn’t get back to my flat for hours. My new Spanish flatmates thought I had run away back to the UK!
Perhaps the most awkward and common mistake made by newcomers occurs when greeting people. Most countries have a certain protocol and Spain’s “double kiss”—one on each cheek—is notably different from the British handshake (and if you ask many Brits abroad, far too friendly). You can break into a sweat trying to work out if it’s right then left cheek, or left then right. Is it best to “air kiss” or kiss the cheek properly? And if it’s an air kiss, how close to the cheek should you get? Are you insulting someone if you’re too distant? The difficulties don’t stop there:
Patrick, 20, from Chester
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Sophie, 23, from Kent
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My biggest mistake after arriving here was a little embarrassing. I arranged to meet my Spanish coworker for drinks but I arrived a little late and she was already waiting by the Metro. Bearing in mind I had only been in Madrid a few days and it was my first time in Spain, I was not aware of the “dos besos” greeting and so I went in for the traditional British handshake. I ended up jabbing her in the stomach whilst she launched herself on me trying to kiss me. Very awkward for all involved.
Lucy, 28, from Bournemouth I prefer shaking hands. I once greeted a Spanish guy with a double kiss, but I got a bit nervous and forgot I was halfway through an ice cream cornet. A lot of it went down his sweatshirt.
Gary, 24, from Manchester On being introduced, I once headbutted my Spanish girlfriend’s grandmother. Thank God it was only a light touch of heads. She was 86—the grandmother by the way, not my girlfriend.
Matt, 33, from Bristol The kissing greeting is a nightmare. I regularly move the same way as the person I’m greeting, and then of course we both move back the other way. It often looks as though I’m trying to get past her, like attack and defence on a basketball court. Either that or we’re inventing a new dance craze. Have you put your foot in it since arriving in the city? Wanted the earth to swallow you up? Please let us know! Send your stories, max 200 words, to editor@in-madrid.com, titled “Oh dear!” Two tickets to the Yelmo Cine Ideal for the best tale.
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practical info
The number game An NIE (Número de Identidad de Extranjero) is essential in order to work in Spain. Without it, you face No Immediate Employment. Tom Garton explains the struggles involved in obtaining one
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ou’ve arrived in Madrid, accompanied only by hopes, dreams and a lingering despair brought with you from your homeland. You realise, quite quickly, that without being highly qualified—and I mean very highly qualified—you won’t find a job very easily. Nevertheless, you search, even with the odds stacked against you in a country that suffers from a 20% unemployment rate, rising to 40% for young people. You don’t listen to pessimists, you don’t give up, and you keep yourself together. Then, suddenly, after days spent roaming the streets equipped with nothing but your rusty Spanish and 20 CVs printed at an extortionate price in some dodgy locutorio in Tetuán, you’re offered employment. The HR manager has smiled and patted you on the back, a firm handshake has been exchanged, and everything’s going swimmingly. But then, the manager remembers something. What was it? He looks out of the office window in a disconcertingly grave way. Oh yes. There’s a small detail. “Nothing major. It’s just, there’s a number we need from you.” “A number?” you ask, “What number?” “Oh, we call it an NIE. It’s an identity number for foreigners. You do have one, don’t you?”
Reality bites At this point your legs have, quite understandably and hopefully metaphorically, begun to sink into the floor. Your potential job, for which you looked so hard, seems a distant memory; that kindly, smiley employer now seems like a bureaucrat of questionable parentage. You walk back to your hostel or temporary accommodation in the unbearable, undying heat, shocked and saddened. You’ve lost all hope. You should never have come here. You thought the whole point of the European Union was that you could work wherever you like, but this number for foreigners, this hostile
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code will mean that you will end your days in a Malasañan gutter with several maxed out English credit cards scattered over your gaunt but tanned face. Possibly.
Guide me In fact, the number game has to be played by everyone. I certainly weathered it, which is why I’m here to guide you along, hold your hand like Clarence in It’s A Wonderful Life, and tell you how you can survive in a city which gorges on bureaucracy. I had greater problems with the NIE because I was only staying and working here for five months. If you are staying in Spain for an indefinite period then it shouldn’t be a problem to get an NIE because you will book an appointment with the Ministry of the Interior. The appointment will be roughly six months later. You will then turn up, have an interview, and get your number. However, many people stay for short time periods, and need to get one quickly.
Requirements You will need to have a job offer, because later you will need your employer’s signature on the “form”. To get the “form”, you need to go to the Ministry of the Interior, Calle San Felipe, 7-9 in Tetuán. Get there early—it’s open from Monday to Friday, from 9am-2pm. There you will either meet a pleasant civil service representative (Sorry, we can’t print the original description—Editor), or a nice, friendly policeman. Try and go for the policeman. Ask him for a temporary NIE number, and he will give you the “form”, instructing you to return it when completed. You will go back home and fill this form out, but bear in mind that to do so you will need to have a place of residence in Spain, plus your employer’s signature and approval.
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Hello again You return to Calle San Felipe. You take a number, and queue up, invariably for a long time. When your number is finally called, the woman behind the desk will pick up your documents and your passport, and will politely suggest something is wrong. (Sorry, we can’t print the original description here either—Editor). You then have to ask her what is wrong, to which she will reply “You haven’t got all the documentation.” You ask her what documentation you need, the answer to which will be two photocopies of your passport. Don’t argue, and certainly don’t point out that there seem to be three photocopiers behind her desk—it won’t achieve anything. Instead, take your papers and get your photocopies done. Of course, now that you’ve read this you’ll be suitably prepared, and can avoid the issue. However, should you disregard the above, return the next day with your documents and your photocopied passport, and wait in the queue again to have a chat with the same nice lady (Sorry, we can’t print the original description yet again— Editor). In the end, she will take all the documents, stamp the form and tell you to return again in 25 days. The form she’s stamped is important. This is your temporary NIE. With it you can satisfy your employer, and in doing so get a job contract. Importantly, you can also open your Spanish bank account. Once this rigmarole is over, life will be much easier; the 25 days will pass smoothly, and your permanent NIE will prove to be a sheet of A4 with a stamp on it. Guard it with your life. There are service providers who can handle the paperwork and obtain an NIE for you. Richard Harrison, for example, offers a consultation absolutely free without compromise. See our services guide this month.
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sport FIXTURE FIX ■ Compiled by Keith Miles
Football
Euro 2012 Qualifying 2 Sep 8.15pm—Bulgaria v England 2 Sep 8.45pm—Rep of Ireland v Slovakia 2 Sep 8.45pm—Wales v Montenegro 2 Sep 8.45pm—N Ireland v Serbia 3 Sep 4pm—Scotland v Czech Republic 6 Sep 5pm—Russia v Rep of Ireland 6 Sep 8.30pm—Estonia v N Ireland 6 Sep 8.45pm—England v Wales 6 Sep 9pm—Scotland v Lithuania 6 Sep 10pm—Spain v Liechtenstein International Friendly 2 Sep Spain v Chile Champions League 13 Sep 9.45pm—Chelsea v Leverkusen 13 Sep 9.45pm—Genk v Valencia 13 Sep 9.45pm—B. Dortmund v Arsenal 13 Sep 9.45pm—Barcelona v Milan 14 Sep 9.45pm—Manchester City v Napoli 14 Sep 9.45pm—Villareal v Bayern Munich 14 Sep 9.45pm—Benfica v Manchester United 14 Sep 9.45pm—Dinamo Zagreb v Real Madrid 27 Sep 9.45pm—Bayern Munich v Manchester City 27 Sep 9.45pm—Napoli v Villareal 27 Sep 9.45pm—Manchester United v Basel 27 Sep 9.45pm—Real Madrid v Ajax 28 Sep 9.45pm—Valencia v Chelsea 28 Sep 9.45pm—Arsenal v Olympiakos 28 Sep 9.45pm—BATE v Barcelona Europa League 15 Sep 7pm—PAOK v Tottenham Hotspur 15 Sep 7pm—Shamrock Rovers v Rubin Kazan 15 Sep 7pm—Dynamo Kiev v Stoke City 15 Sep 7pm—SK Slovan Bratislava v Athletic Bilbao 15 Sep 9.05pm—Birmingham City v SC Braga 15 Sep 9.05pm—Atlético Madrid v Sion 15 Sep 9.05pm—Fulham v FC Twente 29 Sep 9.05pm—Tottenham Hotspur v Shamrock Rovers 29 Sep 9.05pm—Stoke City v Besiktas 29 Sep 9.05pm—Athletic Bilbao v Paris Saint-Germain 29 Sep 7pm—NK Maribor v Birmingham City 29 Sep 7pm—Rennes v Atlético Madrid 29 Sep 7pm—Odense BK v Fulham La Liga 11 Sep Real Madrid v Getafe 11 Sep Real Sociedad v Barcelona 11 Sep Valencia v Atletico Madrid 11 Sep Rayo Vallecano v Real Zaragoza 18 Sep Levante v Real Madrid 18 Sep Barcelona v Osasuna 18 Sep Atletico Madrid v Racing Santander 18 Sep Getafe v Rayo Vallecano 21 Sep Racing Santander v Real Madrid 21 Sep Valencia v Barcelona 21 Sep Atletico Madrid v Sporting Gijon 21 Sep Espanyol v Getafe 21 Sep Rayo Vallecano v Levante 25 Sep Real Madrid v Rayo Vallecano 25 Sep Barcelona v Atletico Madrid 25 Sep Getafe v Real Betis Premier League 18 Sep 2.30pm—Tottenham v Liverpool 18 Sep 5pm—Man Utd v Chelsea 24 Sep 1.45pm—Man City v Everton Scottish Premier 18 Sep 1.30pm—Rangers v Celtic
Everything to play for InMadrid will be following the city’s independent, friendly five-a-side football league this season, but a league table can mean little if you don’t know the clubs involved. Luc Ciotkowski provides information about the teams Photos: © Fatima Rios Casas
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unday afternoons at the Colegio Santa María del Pilar in Sainz de Baranda will soon be about football again, with its five-a-side pitches hosting games involving players of all abilities and countless nationalities, but without referees. This season, the league has been renamed the IFL (International Football League) Madrid, having previously been the EFL (English Football League) Madrid, and if you fancy following, or joining, one of the clubs, our guide below gives some finer details:
Atlético Cero Last season: 1st, Div One Cero’s skillful, attacking football had devastating effects last season, and their record of 21 wins and one draw speaks for itself. Their top goalscorer, Dani, has averaged an incredible three goals per game over the last two seasons. Premier League Equivalent (PLE): Arsenal— for style rather than recent success.
Atlético Retiro Last season: 6th, Div One The Retiro boys have been associated with the league for more than a decade and are one of the few all-Spanish teams. What they lack in attack, they more than compensate for in defence. Expect them to make the first division again. PLE: Everton—not always fancied, but they’ll make the top half.
Barones de la Birra Last season: 3rd, Div Two “The Beer Barons” is probably the most embarrassing team name to tell the school janitor when booking a pitch, but Barones were in contention to win the second division until the final day of last season and finished in a creditable third place. PLE: Bolton Wanderers— under Owen Coyle. Attacking, but tend to wilt against strong teams.
Dirty Sánchez Last season: 8th, Div Two Was their team name inspired by pornography or a TV show like Jackass? Both could be appropriate for the players, who, if not still in bed come kick off time, are a gifted bunch undone by a “risky” approach onfield. They will be looking for new recruits to improve. PLE: Blackpool—exciting and calamitous.
FC Británico de Madrid Last season: 4th, Div Two Joined in 2009 to give competitive football to players who didn’t make their 11-a-side teams. Adapting to five-a-side proved difficult at first, but they improved to finish fourth in the second division last time. Pulled off the year’s giantkilling by knocking Atlético Cero out of the league cup. PLE: Newcastle—a sleeping giant with potential.
FC Copenbadly Last season: 5th, Div One Seven years in the league but with more line-up changes than Fleetwood Mac, last term’s crop bonded quickly, thanks in part to their post-match beer drinking. Having secured their highest finish last season, the league’s most international side (nine players and eight nationalities) will be looking to make life hard for the front runners. PLE: Tottenham— can compete with the best, but tend to have off days.
Finbar’s 67
F1 11 Sep 2pm—Italian Grand Prix, Monza 25 Sep 2pm—Singapore Grand Prix
Rugby Union 9 Sep-23 Oct Rugby World Cup, New Zealand
Last season: 8th, Div One Named after Madrid’s Irish bar Finbar’s, now sadly closed, plus the year that Celtic won the European Cup, Finbar’s 67 are the most improved team in the league. A couple of new signings will help their bid to consolidate their status as a first division side. PLE: Stoke City—not always pretty, but dangerous to let them play how they wish.
Finbar’s Celtic Tennis 29 Aug-11 Sep US Open, Flushing Meadows
Basketball 31 Aug-18 Sep EuroBasket 2011, Lithuania
Last season: 4th, Div One Currently “thrashing out a new sponsorship deal” after the closure of Finbar’s pub, Celtic’s mix of quality and tireless work rate had previously won them two successive league titles. Fortunes proved disappointing last season, but they are always dangerous. PLE: Chelsea—a team that will be there or thereabouts at the end.
Cycling
Los Lobos
20 Aug-11 Sep Vuelta A España
Last season: 6th, Div Two Named by a founder who left before revealing why he chose “The Wolves”, the club still wonder whether it was a homage to Wolverhampton Wanderers or to the band famous for “La Bamba”. This
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mostly English side played some attractive football and with a season’s experience, they might now find their bite. PLE: Wigan—good going forward but vulnerable at the back.
Madrid Reds Last season: 7th, Div One From fourth in the second division in 2009-10 to seventh in the first division last season, the team representing the Liverpool FC supporters club are expected to continue their upward trajectory. With players from the UK, Ireland and Spain, they may very well enter a second team in this year’s competition. PLE: Liverpool—obviously, although we should have said Everton just to upset them.
Madrid Villains Last season: 2nd, Div Two Made their debut last season, but with a registration spelling mistake—Villians. Were they meaning “bad guys” or suggesting a love for Aston Villa? They caused plenty of problems on the field and only a mid-season dip in form saw them drop into the second division. PLE: Aston Villa—in case they were supposed to be “Villans”.
Moore’s Tribunal Last season: 7th, Div Two Moore’s enjoyed an outstanding first season in 2009-10 with nine straight victories to steal the second division title by one point, but the loss of several key players left them struggling last year. After the demise of the watering hole that brought them together, they are still “in negotiations” for a “lucrative” new sponsorship and naming deal. PLE: QPR—not taken over, but they could be back with a new name and look.
O’Neill’s United Last season: 3rd, Div One O’Neill’s United have gained a reputation as cup specialists having won four of the five knockout tournaments over the last two years. In the league, they have clinched third place in both seasons. Their simple touch football and powerhouse goalscorer Emilio make O’Neill’s a potent threat. PLE: Manchester City—no whingeing superstars, but may fulfil their potential soon.
Santana Last season: 2nd, Div One With players from Peru, Argentina and Spain, Santana are known for their intricate footwork rather than guitar playing. They are the most successful team in the league’s history, winning nine consecutive league titles from 2000 to 2008, and 2010 was the only year they finished lower than second. PLE: Manchester United—it always feels like they’ve an extra man on the pitch.
Studio Banana FC Last season: 5th, Div Two The arts and design professionals from the platform of the same name have finished their first two seasons mid-table in the second division despite threatening to upset higher-placed teams. They will need to keep their small squad injury-free or recruit to continue their progress. PLE: Sunderland—a good bet for mid-table.
Triskel Tavern Last season: 1st, Div Two Triskel missed out on the first division championship in 2010 only by an inferior head-to-head record after finishing level with Finbar’s Celtic. A much-changed line-up saw them drop into the second division last season, which they won. Following that success, the objective now is to reclaim their place among the front-runners. PLE: Fulham—missed out on glory in 2010 because of a Madridbased team. Contact lewis.carroll@honeywell.com if you would like to sign up for the IFL Madrid as a team or player. InMadrid’s coverage of results and tables, including FC Británico in the Liga Tercera de Aficionados, continues next month.
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Jennifer Rogers Boizumault, 27, USA. Financial Assistant
Why did you decide to move to Madrid? My husband and I had been living in Singapore for two years when we decided that it was time to return to Europe. We wanted to try somewhere new—he is French and had lived in Sweden and I had lived in Italy, so those were out of the question. We had friends in Spain and so in the end it came down to “why not try Madrid?!”
What do you do here? I work as the financial assistant/student accounts representative for Suffolk University, Madrid Campus. How did you get the job? I had already been living in Madrid for two years when I decided that it was time to look for something a bit more challenging than what I had been doing previously. I started job hunting on the internet and started applying for jobs—I came across the advert for my current position, applied and then had to go through interviews, both in person and by telephone. Eventually I got the job. What’s been difficult about moving to/living in Madrid? As much as I love Madrid, there are days when I just want to scream with frustration at the pace of
things. Sometimes it seems that efficiency just does not exist here, with everything from dealing with the phone company, to the bureaucracy, and even just service in a shop. That being said, I don’t really miss much from home since I have been out of the States for about six years now, but there are times when I do just wish I could get a good sandwich! Has it worked out as you planned? In all honestly, I came here without many expectations. Having only visited Madrid twice before, I knew the basics of the city and culture but didn’t come with any preconceived ideas of what it should be like. After two and a half years here, I would have to say Madrid is my favourite city that I have lived in—great weather, friendly people and a culture that allows you to feel like a local quite easily. What are the major differences in work environment/culture compared to home? In the US, the work culture is nine to five with constant productivity. Here in Spain, the hours are longer but it is more of a relaxed environment where you don’t have to count every minute of your coffee break. Also, I have found that the workplace is friendlier and less competitive than back home so you get to know the people you work with more personally than you would in the States. What are your long term plans? Long-term is hard to say, but I think a few more years in Madrid would suit me quite well. I have definitely come to love this city as my own, but I think in the long run my husband and I will go back to France to settle down.
■ INTERVIEW BY TOM A BURGESS
Calle de la Cabeza is located near Antón Martín, parallel to the famous Calle Atocha, and its sign has to be one of the most gruesome in the city. So what’s the secret of “Head Street”? Apparently, there was once a priest with a small fortune (surely not!). He had a greedy servant who, unfamiliar with the Ten Commandments, yearned for his master’s possessions. The day arrived when the servant could no longer stand the temptation, so he waited until the priest fell asleep, then brutally murdered him, making sure of his work by removing the priest’s head from his body. Not wanting to lose his own head, he rapidly stole the priest’s money and left the country. The bloody crime remained unsolved, although the servant was the main suspect. However, there’s a twist in the tale. The servant, having done rather well for himself, returned dressed as a gentleman, convinced that nobody would recognize him. The rouse seemed to be working, and he casually bought a freshly-severed sheep’s head to cook and tuck into. Carrying it underneath his cape, the former servant didn’t notice the head was dripping blood, but it caught the attention of a policeman. The ex-servant argued that carrying a sheep’s head, bloody or not, was no crime. But as he showed it to the policeman, the head magically transformed itself into the head of the murdered priest. The killer broke down and confessed after this “punishment from above”. He was later hanged in Plaza Mayor, wearing a robe with the head drawn on the front. Is there a moral to this story? Perhaps “it doesn’t always pay to get ahead.” ■ GUILLERMO ULIBARRI
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In conjunction with www.silver-screenspain.com, each month we focus on an English language movie made in the comunidad. Whether you want to follow in the footsteps of the stars or play scene-spotting with a DVD, the clues start here. And...action!
The Three Musketeers Release date: 1973 Writer & Director: Richard Lester Stars: Michael York, Oliver Reed, Charlton Heston, Raquel Welch One for all, and all for one! Even though Alexandre Dumas’s classic novel takes place in France, a large proportion of the movie was filmed in Spain, particularly in and around the capital. Director Richard Lester tells the story of the young D’Artagnan (Michael York) who dreams of becoming a king’s musketeer. He meets and quarrels with three men, Athos (Oliver Reed), Porthos (Frank Finlay), and Aramis (Richard Chamberlain), each of whom challenges him to a duel. Without realising they themselves are musketeers, he accepts, and for his efforts D’Artagnan is invited to join them as they oppose nasty Cardinal Richelieu (Charlton Heston), who is looking to increase his already considerable power over Alcázar, Segovia Photo (CC) flickr: alaskan_dude the country’s affairs. D’Artagnan must also juggle liaisons with the charming Constance Bonancieux (Raquel Welch) and the passionate Lady De Winter (Faye Dunaway), a secret agent for the Cardinal. Lester is one of the directors who most appreciated the attraction of shooting films in Spain, and this humorous version of the classic tale, although intended as a single film, was actually released as two separate movies, resulting in lawsuits from disgruntled actors and The Four Musketeers having an almost identical cast list. The royal palace of Aranjuez, near Madrid, made a believable substitute for the French palace of Versailles, as did another old movie favourite, the royal summer retreat of La Granja, 34 kilometres northwest of Madrid. The Alcázar in the city of Segovia was used for a scene in which Richelieu tortures Monsieur Bonacieux, played with goon-like voice by Spike Milligan. Another popular filming location, Talamanca de Jarama, about 50 kilometres north-east of Madrid, was used as D’Artagnan’s home. The Riofrío Palace in Segovia provided some interior shots, and the cloister of the monastery of Uclés (Cuenca) was used for the scene in which, amidst countless lines of washing, the Musketeers first meet and fight each other before uniting against the Cardinal’s men. In addition, the film took advantage of El Escorial, Colmenar Viejo (specifically at the church there known as Ermita de Valverde), Pedraza and Nuevo Baztan, all of which are in the Comunidad de Madrid. Oliver Reed as Athos has perhaps one of the best and sadly ironic lines: “You will find, young man,” he says, “that the future looks rosiest through the bottom of a glass.” Reed died in Malta, in 1999, after a night of hard drinking.
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food&drink
From PG Tips to Pumpernickel Or from fish and chips to wienerschnitzel. In the fifth of our series about buying international ingredients in Madrid, Janel Torkington chooses two nations not hugely famous for their cuisine—Britain and Germany
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There’s no place like home. There’s no place like home. There’s no place like home.” Perhaps not, Dorothy—but who can face leaving a city where the wine is cheaper than the water? European expats of all sorts flock to Madrid for a myriad of exceptionally good reasons, ranging from alcohol-tinged cheap thrills to international language teacher dreams. At times, it can feel like the city has it all, particularly when languishing under the eternal rays of Spanish sunshine. However, any expat knows when homesickness hits, it hits hard, fast, and aims for the stomach. Adapting to the rhythm of the afternoon siesta is a breeze, but for Brits there’s a tea-and-biscuit nostalgia that simply won’t quit. Likewise for Germany, the Spanish caña tradition may be ubiquitous, but ask any German national how it compares to Bavarian brew and be prepared for a diatribe. So in service to your wistful taste buds this month, InMadrid scours the city’s best sources of imported British and German goodies.
Fish ‘n’ Chips... and mushy peas too!
Photo (CC) flickr: thefoodplace_co_uk
Keep it simple British cuisine is unfussy on the whole, and many of the classic dishes can be achieved using what’s commonly available in Spanish supermarkets. Fish and chips is an easy one—bacalao is castellano for cod, after all. Bangers and
¡Pour favor! To wrap up our Summer of Rosados, we left the young, inexpensive wines behind and went to La Rioja’s most revered, respected and time-honoured traditional producer: R. Lopez de Heredia. Famed worldwide for their reds and whites, their bottles bearing the name Viña Tondonia have been ranked among the best of all Spanish wines. Sadly the rosados are often overlooked. But after more than a month-long careful harvest to ensure that each grape is picked at peak ripeness, more than four years of oxidative barrel ageing, and more than six years of reductive bottle ageing to allow the wine to gain complexity and polish, the elevenyear-old, 2000 vintage Tondonia rosado is a
Pumpernickel
mash, which for those unfamiliar with English slang is basically sausages and mashed potato side by side, can be made with a twist by perhaps using morcilla or even Basque txistorra. If you have an oven in your piso, a traditional Sunday roast of beef, potatoes and vegetables can certainly be customised from what the local carnicería/frutería has to offer. However, there are still a plethora of stores scattered throughout the city dedicated to imported British products, a testament to the specific taste demands of its expats: when the late afternoon calls for a PG Tips tea and biscuit, simply nothing else but the genuine article will do.
Brand loyalty The most sought-after items tend to be brand-name beverages and condiments, each with its own particular flavour of home for expat Brits. The Food Hall (Isla Alegranza, 6 nave, 38) is one exported corner of Great Britain, tucked into San Sebastian de los Reyes, a town just north of Madrid and reached by Cercanías. Brands familiar to the British abound, including HP Sauce, Horlicks (a malted milk drink mix) and the infamous, irreplaceable Marmite spread (a vitamin-filled yeast extract, which, as the saying goes, you’ll love or you’ll hate. See www.marmite.com if you’re curious). Need to get your Branston Pickle fix closer to central Madrid? Try Sabri Food Store (San Emilio, 4. Metro: El Carmen), replete with goods imported directly from Wembley, North London. Coleman’s mustard is here, alongside an enormous selection of Indian and Pakistani spice mixes, which might well be considered legitimate subsections of British cuisine. Near Alonso Martínez metro is Living in London (Santa Engracia, 4), a heritage-style shop offering a selection of British teas and biscuits, as well as a wide variety of homemade jams, ranging in flavour from peach to damson plum. Also found here is a collection of knick-knacks and gewgaws that make excellent gifts for both the homesick expat and the burgeoning Anglophile; think twee tea sets and miniature bowls of potpourri. If pastries are your craving, Helen’s (Paseo de la Castellana, 204. Metro: Plaza Castilla) has your number; the small delicatessen just to the side of their restaurant stocks imported baked goods, including English apple and pumpkin pies.
What to drink this month wine that should never be overlooked again. Appearance The colour is best described as onion skin, as it toes the line between bright copper and pale amber, with a little dried orange peel tone as well. Aroma Interesting! At once subtle and intense, it comes off as slightly sweet and a little nutty. Vanilla bean and honey mix with toasted Mediterranean almonds and even a light tea fragrance. Rather than any strong fruit flavour, you’re presented with definite aromas of oxidation like dry sherries but without the bitter saltiness. A bouquet that keeps you coming back for more. Taste It’s completely dry, with a nice medium body and great smooth texture. Lemony acid makes your tongue water, but perhaps the most remarkable trait
Photo (CC) flickr: oztenphoto
When wurst is best The basic elements of proper German cuisine are, for the most part, similarly simple to find in Madrid. Meat-centric plates are commonplace in both the German and the Spanish palate; you can put together a homemade version of schnitzel by pounding the common pork chuleta until tender, coating with breadcrumbs, and frying. Potatoes are a shared starch, but the two diverge on the issue of bread. The simple, elongated barras so popular with the Spanish bear little resemblance to the heavier German loaves, which often feature multiple grains resulting in darker, more complex flavours. A thick slice of rye or pumpernickel bread is an ideal way to add a Germanic touch to any dish, but the ingredients for putting them together may prove difficult to round up. The freshly-baked offerings at Fass (Rodríguez Marín, 84. Metro: Concha Espina) should do the trick. Their richly sour loaf perfectly complements salted meat spreads, like the famous German liverwurst, also available at Fass, or alternatively, your favorite pâté from any Spanish supermarket. Fass is the only game in town (that we know of) for genuine boiled, salted pretzels, a true treat for German expats and snack aficionados alike.
We’re only here for… Of course, it’s impossible to consider German food thoroughly without a mention of German drink. The country is internationally renowned for its beer for a very good reason: fans could spend several lifetimes just sampling them all. La Maison Belge (Paseo de Santa María de la Cabeza, 42. Metro: Palos de la Frontera) has just made its way over to Madrid within the past year; this Belgian chain of imported beer shops carries German, Belgian, and French brews. The shop owner is more than kind in assisting your perusal of the hundreds of bottles on display—talk to him about your particular preferences for brew, and he’ll help you locate the perfect pairing, from dark wheat beers to pale lager pilsners. Ask about cheeses here as well; different imported varieties are available all the time, occasionally including Bavarian specialties. So until next month, it’s TTFN (Ta Ta, or goodbye, For Now) and auf wiedersehen, pet.
Bodegas R. Lopez de Heredia, Viña Tondonia Rosado Gran Reserva DO: Rioja Alta. 4.5yrs oak, 6.5 yrs bottle. 60% Garnacha, 30% Tempranillo, 10% Virua. 12% ABV.
is the length, or finish. A wine has good length if the finish lasts over a minute. This one persists for more than three. It’s like no other rosé we’ve come across. The complexity of this wine is found only in bottles of equally high quality, held in comparably high esteem. You’ll taste that nuttiness that comes with oxidative ageing; and the savoury dryness mixed with mouth-watering acidity might even remind you of tomatoes, though that’s a long way from saying this tastes like tomato juice. It doesn’t. Try it with Beef. The nuttiness and slight copper minerality go very well with meaty/umami flavours. Another idea is ceviche, hard as it is to find in Spain. Though it is a rosé table wine, its similarity to dry sherries should not be disregarded, and therefore a nice plate of olives, almonds, and boquerones should be perfect. Be wary when experi-
menting because certain things just do not work. Don’t even bother with butterscotch or chocolate. And stay away from creamy sauces. Try seafood or cheeses. Final thoughts Try this wine. It may not be for everyone; there’s a reason all winemakers don’t keep their rosé wines in barrels for nearly 5 years. But for the style, there may be nothing better. And to experience the interesting transformations the right grape juice can undergo with the right conditions and care; to know how varied the same grapes can taste when elaborated so differently; to taste old world tradition and terroir in one of its last great bastions—this wine deserves to be fought over. If only for the unique experience, relax for an afternoon or evening and drink a bottle of something you may never come across again. ■ THOMAS SPAETH
(Yes, this ad is upside down on purpose!M)
Oriental tea house Arabic cuisine and cakes –Delicious Couscous– Tues-Sat, evenings: belly dancing Classes: belly dancing Arabic percussion Poetry circle– –P c/Martín de los Heros, 28. Tel: 91 559 57 85
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T H E E N G L I S H - L A N G U A G E M O N T H LY
food
Fish, not fishy
LA TABERNA CHICA VINOS, TAPAS, COCKTAILS & LOUNGE MUSIC FABULOUS CAIPIRINHAS
The Spanish fish market is far more diverse than that of the UK. Have you ever felt out of your depth? Leah Rodrigues looks to remove some of the mystery from Spanish menus
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f you’ve confidently taken visiting friends to a Spanish restaurant, that confidence can be wholly shattered on being presented with the menu. Starters and desserts are not usually too much of a worry, and for main courses the meat dishes can often be translated without too much difficulty; but then you catch a glimpse of the heading pescado— fish—and despite the faith that your friends have put in you, you suddenly find yourself swimming against the tide. What’s merluza? Or lenguado? In a show of bravado, if you go as far as to order, you then begin to assume the worst, flapping like a fish out of water. You fantasise that you may have ordered those weird looking barnacles that you sometimes see at the market or an eel cut into large chunks with its head still attached. Finally, the waiter comes carrying a plate with your chosen fish. You exhale in relief, but it’s soon replaced by panic because of your guests’ questions. Taste? Texture? Flavour? Ordering fish that may not even appear on menus at home can be stressful. However, fear not, because to make things just a little easier, we have put together the following guide. It details eight fish that are likely to appear on madrileño menus, but that may not be quite so well-known on home turf. Or perhaps in home waters.
Bonito is related to tuna and is also known as albacore tuna in sushi restaurants. It is found in the Mediterranean Sea and all temperate and tropical oceans. Bonito is a fatty fish which has a strong flavour, and tins of it are usually piled high in supermarkets, either prepared in olive oil or in escabeche (marinated in an acidic liquid, usually vinegar). This is usually the tuna you will find on pizza, in tortilla de patata, or accompanying your salad. Popular dishes made with bonito are marmitako de bonito (stewed with potatoes, garlic, onions, tomatoes, and bell peppers) or bonito a la riojana (served with a tomato and red bell pepper sauce). Dorada, or gilt-head bream as it’s called in English, is a European fresh water fish, the range of which extends across the Mediterranean and eastern coastal regions bordering the North Atlantic. This fish is farmed and “wild-caught.” The wild bream season lasts about two months, from approximately mid-September to midNovember. Its flesh is silvery, and it’s low in fat, often promoted as a healthy protein option. You might find dorada fried with potatoes, tomatoes, and red bell pepper or al horno (in the oven) with olive oil, potatoes and onion. Restaurante La Dorada, C/Orense, 64, in Madrid specialises in this fish.
Phot:o: Harriet Smart
and the Mediterranean. This fish is low in fat and light in texture and taste. Madrid prepares lenguado with jamón and clams. The classic French version, sole meunière, pairs the fish with a lemon-butter, caper, and parsley sauce.
Lubina (or róbalo), known as sea bass in English, swims mostly in the Atlantic Ocean as far north as Norway and as far south as Senegal. The best time to eat lubina is during the colder months. However, most of the sea bass found in fish stores and at restaurants are farmed due to the increase in price over the last few years. It’s a lean white fish with a delicate flavour. Lubina a la sal, a dish popular around Christmas time, is made simply with the fish and salt. The lubina is covered with a salt crust and baked in the oven, resulting in a delicious and moist piece of fish. Merluza, or hake, can be found almost anywhere in the world as it swims in the Atlantic and Pacific oceans as well as the Mediterranean Sea. The European hake is a low calorie and low fat white fish, prized for its delicate flavour. Every Spanish province has their own way of preparing merluza. There’s merluza a la vasca (made in the oven with shrimp, clams, asparagus and hard-boiled egg) or merluza a la catalana (made in the oven with a sauce of almonds and cream).
VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT WHOLE FOOD
Ventura de la Vega, 4 (In front of “las Cortes”) Tel: 91 429 50 92 Tres Cruces, 4 (Metro: Sol) Tel: 91 521 87 21
Mero (or cherna), otherwise known as grouper, enjoys the warmer waters near Brazil or the Bahamas, and the Mediterranean Sea. The grouper is a semi-fatty fish with six grams of fat per 100 gram portion. Mero does not have a strong flavour but it is known for small pin bones, so be careful when eating it. Well-known dishes include mero al estilo canario (the fish is fried and presented with a side of potatoes, hardboiled egg, bell pepper, and nuts) and mero al estilo mediterráneo (boiled with onions, pine nuts, raisins, mushrooms, and parsley).
Boquerones are white anchovies (not to be confused with anchoa, the darker anchovy). These small oily fish are intensely flavoured. Boquerones are usually fried whole and served as a ración, intended to be eaten from head to tail. They are also available marinated and conserved. You might find them atop a slice of bread in the form of a tapa.
Rape, or monkfish, enjoy the European and North American coasts. Known in the culinary world as “the lobster of fish”, the monkfish’s white meat is firm and full of flavour. You will most likely see rape in mixed fish dishes like paella. However, it can hold its own in dishes like caldeirada de rape, typical to Galicia (the fish is cooked with onions, potato, garlic, and paprika) or rape a la catalana (fried and served with onion, vinegar, bay leaf, and a sprinkling of chocolate).
Lenguado, or sole, is a flat white fish that can be found on menus year round but its peak months are March and April. Sole is native to the north-east Atlantic, Baltic Sea
There are, of course, plenty more fish in the sea, but hopefully the above will ease menu-stress just a little. Happy dining!
T H E E N G L I S H - L A N G U A G E M O N T H LY
c/Costanilla de San Pedro, 7 (Metro: La Latina)
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Month Ahead art
Pi CK
■ BY ELENA RODEMANN
Museo del Prado Po del Prado, s/n (Metro: Atocha). Tel: 91 330 28 00. Tues-Sun, 9am- 8pm. General admission €8, students under 25 €4; permanent exhibition free, Tues-Sat, 6-8pm; Sun 5-8pm. Roma: Naturaleza e Ideal (Paisajes 1600-1650). In collaboration with Paris’ Grand Palais and the Louvre, the Prado gathers the best landscape paintings of Rome, a key cultural and artistic city that hosted great artists such as Caravaggio, Rafael, and Titian. This is your last chance to catch the exhibition, which has two sections dedicated to the most important artists of the landscape movement—Claudio de Lorena and Nicolas Poussin. Until 25 Sept.
video, sculpture and installation art, he combines the present with the past to comment on the Eastern European political climate and its transition towards a capitalist-based society. 14 Sept-9 Jan.
Other galleries Gilberto Esparza: Parásitos Urbanos. This Mexican artist combines nature with technology and explores their relationship in an unusual way: by recycling electronic parts and creating sculptures that look just like insects. Scattered throughout an urban environment, his robotic life forms are parasites that depend on the same energy sources as humans. Esparza shows how artificial
o’ the month
El Poder de la Duda Museo de Colecciones ICO
C/Zorrilla, 3 (Metro: Sevilla/Banco de España). 91 420 12 42. Tues-Sat, 11am-8pm; Sun 10am-2pm. Free. From this year’s PhotoEspaña collection, this exhibition shows 55 works crafted by 16 different artists born in areas with a tumultuous past and present: China and Eastern Europe. Under the theme of “the power of doubt”, these young minds reflect how countries with traumatic pasts endure and experience the effects of globalization. Photography, film and digital technology have emerged as the dominant form of communication and are a platform for globalized reality. These artists argue that globalization forces their countries to overcome their repressive past by making them ignore it. Under the pressure of neo-imperialist trends, they have to pretend to be happy and peaceful when in reality their past still haunts and hurts them. Artists such as Hamra Abbas, Dimitar Solakov, Wangechi Mutu, Pak Sheung Chuen, Sun Xun and Jiang Zhi portray how globalization affects our understanding of our external reality and ourselves. They encourage us to use the power of doubt in order to question what we see, hear, and know as true. Until 11 Sept.
CaixaForum Madrid Pº del Prado, 36 (Metro: Atocha). Tel: :90 233 22 11. Mon-Sun, 10am-8pm. Free. Construir la Revolución. Arte y Arquitectura en Rusia 1915-1935. The art that emerged after the October Revolution is proof of how Bolshevik artists envisioned and tried to create their socialist state through the use of their artistic talent and charisma. Over 230 works are displayed, among them drawings, paintings and models that shed light on the innovation and hope instilled in the minds of the architects who believed in the revolution. The exhibition is organised by London’s Royal Academy of Arts, with the help of Fundación La Caixa and the Museum of Contemporary Art of Thessalonica. Until 18 Sept.
Gilberto Esparza — mosca-oreja1
life is able to survive in urban spaces and what effect that might have on human life. Matadero Madrid, Paseo de la Chopera, 14 (Metro: Legazpi). Tel: 91 480 49 69. Tues-Fri, 4-10pm; Sat, Sun, 11am-10pm. Free. Until 25 Sept.
Leon Golub and Nancy Spero. These two artists met during the 1940s at Chicago’s School of Art Institute and became inseparable. While Golub focused more on canvas painting, Spero preferred means that involved the viewer more. Both understood art as a vehicle for protest, as well as political, social and sexual discourse. They adamantly believed in the power of art for social change and ceaselessly projected their ideology, ethics and beliefs through their work. Together their work is a tool to denounce oppression, injustice and war. Golub’s solo exhibition also continues at the Centro de Arte Reina Sofia until 12 Sept. Galería Pilar Serra, C/Almagro, 44 (Metro: Rubén Darío). Tel: 91 308 15 69. Mon-Sat, 10.30am-2pm, 5-9pm. Free. 6 Sept-12 Oct.
Construir la Revolución: Richard Pare
Centro de Arte Reina Sofía C/Santa Isabel, 52 (Metro: Atocha). Tel: 91 774 10 00. Mon-Sat, 10am-9pm; Tues closed; Sun, 10am-2.30pm. General admission €6, temporary exhibition €3. Free Mon, Wed-Fri, 7-9pm; Sat 2.30-9pm; Sun, 10am-2.30pm. Andreas Fogarasi. Fogarasi is a minimalist artist who uses his energy for conceptual art. Through
theatre
Latidos: Cecilia Paredes y Luis González Palma. One must be quiet in order to hear the heart’s music. The sound of a heartbeat might be one of the most beautiful sounds ever heard. For years the heart has been used as a symbol for love, emotion and irrationality. In this exhibition, artists Palma and Paredes take a look at how the heart represents the most intimate will to live, feel and rest. While Palma focuses on the heart’s internal privacy, Paredes explores how the human heart is in unison with nature. Galería Blanca Berlin. C/Limón, 28 (Metro: Ventura Rodríguez). Tel: 91 542 93 13. Mon-Sat, 10.30am-2.30pm, 5-9pm. Free. 15 Sept-26 Nov.
■ BY HARRIET SMART
Du Zhenjun
dance
■ BY HARRIET SMART
Animales
Cayetana, su pasión
Actor and presenter Junara Bonet has adapted Ricky Gervais’s Animals. The work, which is a monologue, delves into the animal kingdom aiming to understand what exactly makes animals and humans different. The show is based on all things animal, covering everything from discussion of their sexuality to the taxonimisation of bats. No subject is taboo. The humour is relentless, but will it work in Spanish without Gervais’s presence and clout? Teatro Alfil, C/del Pez, 10 (Metro: Tribunal, Noviciado). Tel: 91 521 58 27. Tickets: (entradas.com) 20. Wed-Fri, 8pm; Sat, 6pm, 8pm; Sun, 6pm. 21 Sept-27 Nov.
This is a homage to the life of the Duchess of Alba and her great passion for flamenco by the Cecilia Gómez Ballet Flamenco Company, with wardrobe by the world renowned Victorio and Lucchino. Gómez heads this spectacular work, and hopes to do justice to the celebrated Duchess, a woman full of talent, intuition and creativity, with an imposing personality. Her support for Flamenco has been undying and unconditional. This production looks also to celebrate Spanish culture generally, whether in the form of painting, poetry or bullfighting, and includes collaboration from dancer Antonio Canales and journalist Jesús Quintero. Teatros de Canal, C/Cea Bermúdez, 1 (Metro: Canal). Tel: 91 308 99 99. Tickets: (entradas.com) 18. Tues-Sat, 8pm; Sun, 7pm. Until 18 Sept.
Black Out
El Nacional The opera Rigoletto has been updated, adapted and enriched with even more music to make it into a modern, 21st century production. Producer Albert Boadella directs soprano Begoña Alberdi and baritone Enrique Sánchez, alongside the popular Joglars company. The audience will recognise distinctive arias from Rigoletto, which accompany Boadella’s updated score. The story takes us back to a moment when the theatre is no longer fashionable, and character Don José, a previous proprietor of the National Opera Theatre, is unemployed. He decides to stage a new Rigoletto production, and he sees the work as the antithesis of the intellectual performers who degrade the profession. Nuevo Teatro Alcalá, C/Jorge Juan, 62 (Metro: Príncipe de Vergara). Tel: 91 426 47 79. Tues-Fri, 8.30pm; Sat, 7pm, 10pm; Sun, 7pm. 1 Sept-13 Nov.
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Choreographer Jordi Cortés is back with his new show about the limitations and possibilities of the human body, explored through the medium of dance. Cortés explores how the human body reacts when under physical difficulty. This work premiered in Barcelona last year to much critical acclaim, and features disabled people alongside able-bodied dancers and actors. The show forms part of the eighth Festival Territorio Danza. Sala Cuarta Pared, C/Ercilla, 17 (Metro: Embajadores) Tel: 91 517 23 17. Tickets: (entradas.com) 12. Fri, Sat, Sun, 9pm. 30 Sept-2 Oct.
IV Festival Internacional de Danza: Miradas al cuerpo Miradas al cuerpo is now in its fourth year, and all works presented in the festival explore the physical nature of theatre. Four plays are featured this year, including Un presente hecho presente, an improvised dialogue-based show, Pasodoble + asi no se puede, a work based around combat, and ¿Qué harias tu si fueras Medea?, an interactive piece, combining dance and painting. Teatro LaGrada, C/Ercilla, 20 (Teatro: Embajadores/Acacias). Tel: 91 292 64 77. Tickets: (entradas.com) 12. Thurs-Sun, 9pm. 8 Sept-2 Oct.
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T H E E N G L I S H - L A N G U A G E M O N T H LY
music
Cool cats’ tale Madrid band Jenny and the Mexicats have won a number of awards for their music. Richard Lewington meets the group to find out more about their mixed cultures and unique sound
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heir style resonates an international feel and their music is a melting pot of rock, jazz, rockabilly and flamenco. It’s a genre, according to El País, that is “impossible to clarify”, but clues to the Jenny and the Mexicats sound can be found in their band members and background. The group consists of two Mexicans—Double Bassist Icho and guitarist Pantera, together with madrileño percussionist David, who provides gypsy beats on a flamenco boom box known as the cajón, and lead singer and trumpeter Jenny Ball from London, to whom their name owes its origins. Starting life in June 2008, the band’s story is unusual and turns out to be more of an accidental adventure than a well-planned project.
Opening credits “I originally came to Madrid to study cinema after finishing High School,” commences Icho. “I didn’t want to be lonely so I thought I’d bring my mates along—two best friends with whom I used to play in a rockabilly band.” One of his friends was Pantera, who takes up the story. “Icho and I have been friends forever so I wanted to join him. But I also wanted to study flamenco. My family loves flamenco and taught me the basics, so once I finished High School my mum asked me what I wanted to do. Did I want to be an architect or a lawyer? I said ‘No, I just want to be a musician!’ She said in that case I’d have to do it right and study flamenco in Madrid. Icho was here so I took advantage of that and studied flamenco seriously.” Jenny’s involvement in the band owes a lot to her relationship with Icho which began when she was still a teenager. “I was 18 then. Icho asked me if I wanted to go to Mexico with him. My mum said ‘You must be joking! You’re not going to Mexico with that strange Mexican! He might put drugs in your bag!’ I said he didn’t seem like the type and she replied ‘How do you know he’s not the type?’ She had a point so I actually said no to him at first but he got really sad. I thought it was obvious that you can’t just ask some girl to go to Mexico with you that you’ve only met once in your life! In the end I thought ‘You know what, I’m going, I want an adventure!’ I didn’t get myself over to Spain until two years later when I was 20.”
Business and pleasure Jenny and Icho have different outlooks on whether or not being in the band together affects their relationship, and vice versa. “We haven’t quite got it right yet,” says Jenny, “It’s very difficult because the band is our life. We talk about the band when the band is not together. We go on tour together, we play gigs together. Everything is ‘band’ and we have had our real ups and downs because of that.” Icho has a more positive attitude, “I think it’s a really great opportunity to have everything in the same place. Yeah, we have struggled, but to be honest, couples struggle anyway. I have the chance to share everything with her. Everybody tells me not to mix pleasure and business but this band exists because of our love, really.” “I think our approach when we started wasn’t ‘we are going to be an Indie band’ or ‘we are going to be a Pop band’,” says Jenny. “We never restricted ourselves to one genre, we just did what the hell we wanted. And in the end we made our own kind of thing. We’ve all got a different musical history and we combine a lot of different genres.” T H E E N G L I S H - L A N G U A G E M O N T H LY
Tongue twisted Up to now the band has mainly composed and performed in English, but from the upbeat “On the Hill” to guitar driven “Head in my Heart”, their songs certainly appeal to a Spanish audience too. They are about to change to Spanish lyrics, but do they believe there is a big difference between the English and Spanish music markets? Pantera believes that language doesn’t affect what the band is trying to do. “Sometimes we sing in Spanglish! The lyrics are very important but what I think is most important is the feeling that is transmitted. When Jenny plays the trumpet, it’s her second voice; she transmits something with it. That’s why we don’t have problems in Madrid. But we have been in Spanish towns on tour and they have shouted ‘Sing in Spanish!’”
Making a living So how easy has the band found it to make a living from its music? “We’ve been together for three years, and nearly all of us have been working two jobs at the same time,” comments Jenny, “I was an English teacher, David’s a full time musician but he used to be a gardener.” Icho adds, “I don’t think we have struggled a lot; things have come easily to us but it’s still really difficult. We have been fighting for three years but I see bands who have been fighting for fifteen years or so. I really think we have had it easy. The gigs that we are playing, the cash we earn is now enough to sustain us as musicians.” Being from varying backgrounds can have its disadvantages “It’s like a rollercoaster, we have had a whole heap of problems, like trying to make it into the UK with visas, but it’s been a learning experience for us. We’ve been through a lot but we all support each other,” explains Pantera.
Reaping rewards The hard work has paid off, with Jenny and the Mexicats recently winning a host of awards including Best Live Act in Madrid, National Young Best Band of 2011, Universimad and the Premio AIE Artistas en Ruta. They are now working with Grammy award-winning producer and songwriter Jimmy Hogarth who is responsible for a string of hits with artists such as Tina Turner, James Morrison and Duffy. “It’s an exciting time for us,” concludes Jenny. “We’ve been lucky enough to play to large amounts of people. But no matter how successful we become, I’d rather play in front of a smaller crowd because you feel a closeness with the people who are watching. If you say something away from the microphone, they can still hear you and the connection is really intimate. Nothing beats that. Before I had this band, I was so scared of performing in public, but this band has taught me to dance on stage and just enjoy it! If you ask me in a year I will say the same. However, you might disagree.” It just might be “impossible to clarify”. Jenny and the Mexicats can be found at www.myspace.com/jennyandthemexicats and www.facebook.com/jennyandthemexicatsmusic. You can catch them this month at the Costello Club on 1 Sept, and at Zanzibar on 17 Sept (Jenny acoustic set). See music listings for details.
W W W. I N M A D R I D . C O M
SEPTEMBER 2011
15
for the record
concerts
Catch Coldplace, the UK’s leading tribute band to Coldplay, at Sala Lemon on 23 Sept. They’ve played more than 300 gigs. See live listings page 17.
■ BY MAGDA GAMEEL
Russell Parton gets out his olives and tells us what we should, or shouldn’t, be listening to
George Michael
Grises El Hombre Bolígrafo Origami
Sun 25 Sept. Palacio de Deportes, Avenida Felipe II, s/n (Metro: Goya/ O’Donnell). Tel: 91 444 99 49. www.palaciodedeportes.com.
A tendency to flit between light and shade, or a deliberate attempt to defy expectation, could both be reasons for the band name of Basque five-piece Grises. But with new album El Hombre Boligrafo, the grey moments are few, with the group’s playful nine song LP blending 80s keyboard licks reminiscent of the Boss. Songs build up before climaxing in a pause and a seventh chord, investing the record with the much undervalued “knowing wink” factor. With “Plástico Elástico” we get a whirligig of keyboard and 80s electric guitar pop sounds, while there’s a party going on in the chorus to “No es imposible” with call and response vocals shouting “hey” amid the singer’s furrowed brow vocals and determination: “no aguanto un día más siendo idiota.” Being a sap myself, the pensive melancholy of “Polaroid” stood out as the best song, a melodic figure and picked guitar loop combining nicely to ratchet up the song’s theme of nostalgia and providing the album with its emotional core. Of course, this is immediately juxtaposed by the lollipop-licking, sun-drenched pop of “Chicles Pegados”, with a bassline that snakes up and down and with seductive, if rather silly, vocals; the message being that there’s nothing here to take too seriously.
“Last Christmas, I gave you my heart!” Believe it or not it was 27 years ago when George Michael and school friend Andrew Ridgeley, as Wham!, first crooned these famous words, which still prove a must-play for most radio stations during the festive season. George went solo in 1987, releasing his first album called Faith and now, 24 years, 5 studio albums and 2 Grammy Awards later, he will be at the Palacio de Deportes on the 25th. (But leaving us hanging on like a yo-yo til then). This concert is part of his Symphonics: The Orchestral Tour, giving a classical setting to many of his favourite songs.
Marissa Nadler Marissa Nadler Box of Cedar Records Marissa Nadler makes a delightful accompaniment to a Sunday morning. As a soundtrack to the indecision as to whether to read the paper, listen to the radio or make another cup of tea, little suits better than the lushly produced country-folk experiments of this singer from Boston. With her self-titled fifth offering, we are treated to a deluge of whispered lyrics and delicate, minor key melancholic narrative songs. Think Alondra Bentley without the irritating jazz inflections and with breathy, soporific vocals and augmented chords, and you won’t be far off. It just may be all a bit too bruised and tender, the yearning of “The Sun Always Reminds Me of You” or “Mr John Lee Revisited” overplayed. A sample lyric runs “Last time I saw you bringing firewood into your house from a tree/I didn’t love you quite as much as sweet Marie.” The phrasing is immaculate but the dreamy imagery all a bit passé. At least with Joanna Newsom, whose voice is similar though more idiosyncratic, there’s self-deprecation in her surreal touches. This appears too sombre, too earnest, and you wonder what it all means apart from the beautiful production with the picked acoustic and the maudlin percussion that seems to announce its presence each time. I think my point is that the dreamy imagery and immaculate pastoral country sound does work (especially when played on a Sunday) but when it meets with further scrutiny, this album doesn’t do, say or make you feel very much except vagaries.
In Flames
Kamikaze Queens
Fri 16 Sept. La Riviera, P° Bajo de La Virgen, s/n (Metro: Puerta del Ángel/Príncipe Pio). Tel: 91 365 24 15. www.salariviera.com.
Sat 17 Sept. Gruta 77, C/Cuclillo, 6 (Metro: Oporto). Tel: 91 471 23 70. www.gruta77.com.
In Flames were pioneers of melodic death metal music. Originally started as a side project of guitarist Jesper Strömblad, who was also a member of a band called Ceremonial Oath, In Flames were meant to fulfil his dream of writing more melodic songs. After some line-up changes, the current vocalist, Anders Fridén, joined the group in 1995 and grounded the image of In Flames to date. Having been together for 17 years, the band released their 10th album in Photo (CC) flickr: Nirazilla 2011, entitled Sounds of a Playground Fading, and after touring through the US in July and August, we get the chance to see them live at Sala Riviera on the 16th.
Punk Cabaret from Germany! Founded in 2006 and composed of two charismatic, feisty female lead singers, plus
Photo: © Alex Fuchs
three buzzin’ guys, the Kamikaze Queens follow in the tradition of sexy, theatrical live performances with elements of burlesque and Can-Can. Musically, their style ranges from punk rock to country and even to rock’n’roll. This spectacle is far from mainstream, but their inspiration is clear: the famous hedonism of 1920s Berlin.
Beirut The Rip Tide Pompeii Owl City Mon 19 Sept. Ramdall, C/Ferraz, 38 (Metro: Ventura Rodriguez). Tel: 91 542 53 29. www.salaramdall.com. Owl City first gained national popularity through their Myspace profile and the song “Ocean Eyes”. Lead singer, Adam Young, likes to include beats and sounds inspired by European Electro and Synthpop of the 80’s, and in Europe they caught people’s attention with “Fireflies”, which was celebrated as the most successful electronic/alternative song of all time, reaching number one in the charts in Denmark, the Netherlands, the USA, Australia, Ireland and the UK. Three months ago they released their third album, All Things Bright and Beautiful, which received mixed reviews due to its experimental nature.
Jay Z and Kanye West Watch the Throne Roc-a-fella records Two of hip-hop’s finest, Jay Z and Kanye West, have joined forces to bring us Watch the Throne, a new album combining audacious sampling feats, a cameo chorus from Beyonce and turns from Bon Iver’s Justin Vernon, La Roux and R&B singer Frank Ocean. While artistically it’s not really a patch on West’s My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy, the technical skill of these two titans of rap and the sheer inventiveness of Kanye West makes this album worth its salt. The confidence that comes with massive success means no subject is off limits: faith and deception are the themes of “No Church in the World”, whilst “Why I Love You; Lift Off”, with Beyonce helicoptered in to deliver the chorus, is a celebration of life’s possibilities. With West pulling the strings, there’s also a sampling of Otis Reading’s “Try a little Tenderness”, which manages to cut up the great soul-man’s voice, throwing in a few James Brown yelps and rapping over the top of it. It’s a party in a song and it’s great. Likewise, “New Day” takes the Nina Simone song and sacrilegiously slaps auto-tune all over it. Then the two old stagers take turns to rap about how they’d like their sons to turn out. “I won’t ever let him hit a strip club/I learnt the hard way that ain’t the place to get love,” confesses West. At turns funny, aggressive, thought-provoking and emotionally affecting, Watch the Throne is a majestic album that lives up to its makers’ status as hip-hop kings.
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SEPTEMBER 2011
The Baseballs Sat 30 Sept. La Riviera, P° Bajo de La Virgen, s/n (Metro: Puerta del Ángel/Príncipe Pio). Tel: 91 365 24 15. www.salariviera.com. Founded in 2007, the three singers Sam, Basti and Digger first came to mainstream attention when they produced covers of hits such as Rihanna’s “Umbrella” and Katy Perry’s “Hot ‘n’Cold”, the latter making it to the top ten in ten European countries. This year they released their album Strings’n’Stripes on which you’ll find an amusing take on 50 Cent’s “Candy Shop”. Their shows are filled with energy and are highly entertaining. As they tour across Europe, they’ll also be offering audiences a 21st century remake of old 1950s classics.
W W W. I N M A D R I D . C O M
booking ahead
While Beirut have gone about assimilating into their sound a plethora of Eastern European folk styles and, on 2009 EP March of the Zapotec, even incorporating a funereal Mexican marching band, many of their indie peers have gone the way of electronica or, like Sufjan Stevens, have delved into more left-field conceptual stuff. But judging by Beirut’s new LP The Rip Tide, singer Zach Condon is not deterred. In fact you could even call this, by his standards, a conservative record, with simplified arrangements that rely heavily on the tried and true triumvirate of horns, piano and ukelele/strings. Luckily, Beirut were always one of the most startlingly original bands out and there’s no real crime in sounding like yourself. It’s a short album of only 33 minutes that drifts by effortlessly. With the familiar marching drum patterns high in the mix, snare heavy and with emphasis on the on-beat, some distinction between songs is lost, and the album rewards multiple listens if you really want to appreciate the complex, heart-wrenching melodies and a dramatic brass section that uses dynamics to full effect.
The Kooks Sat 22 Oct, La Riviera, Paseo Virgen del Puerto, s/n (Metro: Principe Pio/Puerta del Ángel). Tel: 91 365 24 15. www.salariviera.com. €25 from www.ticketmaster.es Wilco Tues 1 Nov, Teatro Circo Price, C/Ronda de Atocha, 35 (Metro: Embajadores). Tel: 91 528 81 22. www.teatrocircoprice.es. €45 from www.entradas.com Yes Fri 4 Nov, La Riviera, Paseo Virgen del Puerto, s/n (Metro: Principe Pio/Puerta del Ángel). Tel: 91 365 24 15. www.salariviera.com. €36 from www.ticketmaster.es Rihanna Thurs 15 Dec, Palacio de Deportes de la Comunidad de Madrid, Avenida Felipe II, s/n (Metro: Goya/O Donnell). Tel: 91 444 99 49. www.palaciodedeportes.com. €45 from www.ticketmaster.es Red Hot Chili Peppers Sat 17 Dec, Palacio de Deportes de la Comunidad de Madrid, Avenida Felipe II, s/n (Metro: Goya/O Donnell). Tel: 91 444 99 49. www.palaciodedeportes.com.
T H E E N G L I S H - L A N G U A G E M O N T H LY
live listings COMPILED BY HARRIET SMART
Rock/pop SALA CLAMORES, C/Albuquerque, 14 (Metro: Bilbao). Tel: 91 445 79 38. www.salaclamores.com 1 Sept: Cuestión de gusto 2 Sept: Mario Díaz 3 Sept : Hermanas sister 4 Sept: Perro Flaco 7 Sept: Silvina Magari 8 Sept: Jaime Anglada 9 Sept: The Magnificent Brotherhood + One Hand Man’s Band 11 Sept: A Love Electric 14 Sept: Brida 17 Sept: The Rus Blues Band 22/23 Sept: María Del Mar Bonet y Manel Camp 24 Sept: Bel & The Boy 25 Sept: The Rockies 28 Sept: Gizmo + Tragicomi-k 30 Sept: Masmadera
24 Sept: Antigua + Star Mafia Boy + Viga 25 Sept: Northfolk Regiment + Dr Jekyll & Mr Funk 28 Sept: La Alternativa + Ornitovacas Of A Down 29 Sept: Dremen + Eu Libre + Ronin TSA + Niños Velcro 30 Sept: Sons of Rock + Piece of Change
nightlife
■ COMPILED BY RICHARD LEWINGTON
Madrid Superclub Kapital plays host to Cantabrian mixmaster Nacho Peña who’ll be injecting an Ibizan vibe into the main arena. As multi-club resident, winner of Flax FM’s Best DJ Award and DJ1 Magazine’s New DJ of the year, expect a roombooming session of high adrenaline and podiumpumping house music. He’ll be joined by Javier Coello and Danny DJ to see the rest of the night through with a combination of commercial tunes and classic anthems. If that doesn’t take your fancy, then browse through one of the six other rooms for a choice of Spanish hits, Latin house, karaoke, hip hop and r’n’b or order yourself a mojito or two on the roof top terraza.
GRUTA 77, C/Cuclillo, 6 (Metro: Oporto). Tel: 91 471 23 70. www.gruta77.com 1 Sept: Tom Bennet + Dollmen 2 Sept: Confunksion + Malyssia + Dead Man + Obsolet Rockers + Overdown + Swamp + 61 Garage + Violet June 3 Sept: Señores Cabrones + Dusty Trip + Los Pajarracos 4 Sept: Extra-Radio + Web Ones 7 Sept: Boom Boom Kid 8 Sept: Void Union 9 Sept: Limando el Serrucho + Despeinados + Barrio Tomillo 10 Sept: Los Carniceros del Norte + Frecuenzia Fantasma 11 Sept: Sinevenia + La Ley de Mantua 13 Sept: Mamá Ladilla 14 Sept: Trance Untes + Munduko Beat 15 Sept: The Movement (Dinamarca) + Los Penúltimos 16 Sept: Mi Animal + Love Division + Espirituosos + The Malditos + Yakuzas + Noiah + Riot City Sinners + Los Nastys + Vigilante Gitano 17 Sept: Kamikaze Queens (Alemania) + Lobo & Dirty Martini 18 Sept: Los Coronas + Lost Acapulco (México) 21 Sept: The Silver Shine (Hungria) 22 Sept: English Dogs (UK) + Windows Lickers + Poundaflesh 23 Sept: Cripta + Calibre Zero + Sonora + Downfalls Doctor
15 Sept: Maná 25 Sept: George Michael
CAFÉ LA PALMA, C/Palma, 62 (Metro: Noviciado). Tel: 91 522 50 31. www.cafelapalma.com 1 Sept: El Hombre Rana 2 Sept: Perversions 3 Sept: Gisella Novais & The Victims 8 Sept: Missmoney Penny 9 Sept: La Loba 10 Sept: Ta Ta For Now 15 Sept: La Perra que te Muerde 16 Sept: Widowmakers 17 Sept: My Left Hand + Sollecito 22 Sept: Dos Ideas + Tu Otra Bonita 23 Sept: Lila Herranz 24 Sept: Fira Fem 29 Sept: Lugosi 30 Sept: Terapia en Grupo
LA RIVIERA, PºBajo de La Virgen, s/n (Metro: Puerta del Ángel/Príncipe Pío). Tel: 91 365 24 15. www.salariviera.com 16 Sept: In Flames 30 Sept: The Baseballs
SEGUNDO JAZZ, c/Comandante Zorita, 8 (Metro: Nuevos Ministerios). Tel: 91 554 94 37. www.segundojazz.es 1 Sept: Johnny & Los Bigudies 8 Sept: Johnny & Los Bigudies 9 Sept: The Silver Tones 10 Sept: The Silver Tones 15 Sept: Johnny & Los Bigudies 16 Sept: All Together Band 17 Sept: All Together Band 22 Sept: Johnny & Los Bigudies 23 Sept: Beat Beat Yeah 24 Sept: Beat Beat Yeah 29 Sept: Johnny & Los Bigudies
ZANZIBAR, C/ Regueros, 9 (Metro: Alonso Martinez). Tel: 91 319 90 64. www.zanzibarmadrid.com/ 17 Sept: Jenny & the Mexicats (acoustic set)
dance & mixed CLUB COLORS, Laydown, Plaza de los Mostenses, 9 (Plaza de España). First & third Fri of the month, 12.30am-3am. www.myspace.com/clubcolors Dance, sit, or even lie down while listening to the beats inspired by different electronic and dance genres at this “sexy groove session”. COPOLACLUB, c/San Hermenegildo, 7 (San Bernardo/Noviciado). Wed-Sun 11pm-3.30am. www.copolaclub.com Funky disco-bar with jazz, soul, pop and chilled house upstairs and electronica and techno downstairs. Test out your DJ skills on weeknights. € FOROCIO.COM FIESTA DE INTERCAMBIO, Sala Torero, c/Cruz, 26 (Sevilla). Wed. www.forocio.com. Meet people from all over the world at this awesome international party. € JOY ESLAVA, c/Arenal, 11 (Sol). Daily 11.30pm-6am. www.joyeslava.com. Hosting lots of guest bands and DJs, Joy attracts a mixed crowd who get all dolled up to dance to an eclectic mix of music. €€ KAPITAL, c/Atocha, 125 (Atocha). Thur-Sat midnight-6am. Over-thetop seven-floor macro-club playing everything from house to hip-hop to Spanish pop. €€€ NEU!CLUB, Sala Galileo Galilei, c/Galileo, 100 (Islas Filipinas). Sat 9.30pm-5.30am. myspace.com/neuclub. Electronica, bluegrass, Motown, 60s, rock and pop during the musical, cultural and audiovisual nights, plus live music and DJ sessions. €€ OCHO Y MEDIO, c/Mesonero Romanos, 13, corner of Gran Vía, 34 (Callao). Fri 1-6am. myspace.com/ochoymedio. Popular night featuring electro-disco, bastard-pop, punk-rock, new wave and post-punk. €€ OUI MADRID, c/Jorge Juan, 99 (Goya). Thur-Sat midnight-3am. www.ouimad.com. Start the night off right at this chic restaurant which turns into a nightclub around midnight. Take the elevator to the top floor and dive into the crush of people. Don’t forget to dress to the nines! €€€ PACHA, c/Barcelo, 11 (Tribunal). Thur-Sat midnight-6am. www.pacha-madrid.com. Ultra-classy Pacha, a major force in Madrid since the 80s, now plays house, hip-hop and commercial music on three floors. Worth a try, but leave those Converse at home! €€€ REINA BRUJA, c/Jacometrezo, 6 (Callao/Santo Domingo). Fri-Sat 11pm-5.30am. www.reinabruja.com. Well-mixed, popular hip-hop and R&B for the fashionable youth of Madrid. €€ YA’STA, c/Valverde, 10 (Gran Vía). Thur-Sat midnight-6am. www.yastaclub.net. Thursdays are jazz, funk and soul, Fridays are dirty rock and electro, and Saturdays are techno and psychedelic trance. Talk about a complete weekend! €€
indie pop & rock ESPIRAL POP, c/San Andrés, 23 (Tribunal/Bilbao). Wed-Sun 11pm3am. myspace.com/espiralpop. Pop and electro pop at this funky café with featured DJs. € INDEPENDANCE CLUB, c/Santa Engracia, 26 (Alonso Martínez). Thur-Fri-Sat midnight-6am. www.independanceclub.com. Enjoy
: A bit more pricey,
: Damn! That’s expensive!
Nightlife Spotlight
Calle Atocha, 125 (Metro: Atocha). Thurs 1 Sept. From 00.00am. www.grupo-kapital.com. €15
2 Sept: Hatebreed 3 Sept: Felix da Housecat + Kill the Hipsters + Kerman 6 Sept: Micah P. Hinson 8 Sept: Steve Aoki 10 Sept: Reset + Hal 9000 + Plastidecor 16 Sept: B-Movie + Hard Rain + Mekanik Disorder 17 Sept: TNT COSTELLO CLUB, C/Caballero de 17 Sept: Boys Noize + Tony Punk + Gracia, 10 (Metro: Gran Via). Tel: 91 Radiocontrol 522 18 15. www.costelloclub.com 22 Sept: Europa FM 1 Sept: Pachuco y la Princesa + Jenny 24 Sept: We are Standard + Kill the & The Mexicats Hipsters + Kic Djs 2 Sept: Mata a tus Idolos + 30 Sept: Airbag Alborotador Gomasio 3 Sept: Tristan Shandy SALA LEMON, Avda de Brasil, 5 8 Sept: Mopane + Maud the Moth (Metro: Cuzco). Tel: 646 006 433. 10 Sept: El Menton de Fogarty www.conciertoslemon.com 13 Sept: Pura Vida 9 Sept: La Ganga Cale + Hijos de King 15 Sept: Lacara Kong + Batemotion 16 Sept: La Casa del Arbol 10 Sept: R1 + Radio Kontra + Sparkle 17 Sept: Crisis Electrica Gross 21 Sept: René 17 Sept: Piccolissima Jug Band 22 Sept: Rusos Blancos 23 Sept: Coldplace (Tribute to 24 Sept: Rock up in Fest Coldplay) 29 Sept: Alex Ferreira 24 Sept: Lamprologus + Ocean Fields 30 Sept: Ecuación Planck + Hot Deals SALA GALILEO GALILEI, C/de Galileo, + Market Garden
3 Sept: Luís Pastor 4 Sept: Certamen C.M.U. Sta. María de Europa 5 Sept: Esmeralda Grao 6 Sept: Aspasi 7 Sept: Artistas por la Consecuencia 8 Sept: Josera y Felipe Indigo 9 Sept: Diego García Trío + Eugenia Manzanera 10 Sept: Vaudi & G.A.S 11 Sept: Devadasi Global Dance 12 Sept: Mariella Köhn 13 Sept: More 14 Sept: Tontxu 15 Sept: Fernando Alfaro + Sector de Agitadas 16 Sept: Noche Sabinera + Joaquin Reyes y Ernesto Sevilla 17 Sept: Silvester Skallone con Alpargata, El Pau y El Sombrero Del Abuelo 18 Sept: Gato Carioca 19 Sept: Victor Cerro y Patri Zenner 20 Sept: Los Ilustres Ignorantes de Canal+ 21 Sept: Javier Ruibal 22 Sept: Riki López 23 Sept: Lucía Perez 23 Sept: Boto 24 Sept: Guillermo Rayo y Los Javieres 25 Sept: Buena Fe 26 Sept: Luis Ramiro
: Cheap,
Nacho Peña@Teatro Kapital
SALA HEINEKEN, C/Princesa, 1 (Metro: Plaza de España). Tel: 91 547 57 11. www.salaheineken.com
100. (Metro: Islas Filipinas/Canal). Tel: 91 534 75 57/58. PALACIO DE DEPORTES DE LA www.salagalileogalilei.com COMUNIDAD DE MADRID, C/Jorge Juan, 1 Sept: Fatou Guewel & Grupo Sope 99 (Metro: Goya/ O’Donnell). Tel: 91 Noreyni 401 91 04. 2 Sept: Biodramina Mood + Patricia www.palaciodedeportes.com Morales
We do our best to keep these listings up to date but clubs come and go so if you see anything incorrect in here, please let us know by sending an email to editor@inmadrid.com. You’ll automatically be entered in a draw to win a free pair of cinema tickets
Mark Broom—DNZ Present@Maxime Ronda de Toledo, 1 (Metro: Puerta de Toledo). Sat 10 Sept. From 00.00am. €15
Since the start of the 90s, former East Londoner Mark Broom has always been a name synonymous with the UK electronic music scene. A truly prolific artist, he has a myriad of production credits to his name having worked with world-renowned labels such as Mo-Wax, Warp, Ifach (with Baby Ford) Bpitch Control and more recently 2020 vision. In 2001, further notable success was scored with the writing of Rue East’s Indoor Culture LP alongside Dave Hill. Mark’s services as a DJ and remixer have also been in high demand over the past two decades having played around the globe at some of the world’s best clubs. He has also reworked material from artists such as Dubfire, Deepgroove and Wally Lopez and has had a string of high class releases over the last twelve months. Check him out sweeping the crowd with a sprinkling of house remixes and original productions.
popular, danceable indie-pop and rock at this excellent indie club. Email info@independanceclub.com with your full name, number of people and day attending for free entry! € SALA TABOO, c/San Vicente Ferrer, 23 (Tribunal). Thur-Sat 11pm5.30am. www.taboo-madrid.com. Hosting both concerts and DJs, this Malasaña venue has it all, from funky electronica to punk-rock to trip-hop by upcoming artists. Watch out for its indie night, Dots Club, on Thursdays. €€ TRANSMISSION CLUB, Sala Star Studio 54, Plaza del Carmen, 3, lower floor (Sol). Fri 11pm-3am. myspace.com/transmission_club. Here’s a bar with a heavy musical focus, even mixing up the styles— post-punk, gothic, 80s and more—depending on the night. € TUPPERWARE, c/Corredera Alto de San Pablo, 26 (Tribunal). WedSun 10pm-3am. myspace.com/tupperwarebar. Super-kitsch design and an indie-pop vibe that gets everyone dancing. € WILD THING BAR, c/Martín Machio, 2 (corner Padre Claret) (Alfonso XIII). Sun-Thur 9pm-close, Fri-Sat 10pm-close. www.wildthing.es. DJs rock this artsy bar with 90s and indie greats every night of the week. Make sure you take advantage of its happy hour on Thursdays from 9pm to 1am, when beers are only €2! €
electro, house, techno & drum’n’bass CAPOTE, c/Santa Teresa, 3 (Alonso Martínez). Tues-Sat 10pm-5am. This little gem of a bar puts on a good show with resident DJs Timo and Roberto Jean. Enjoy some tasty house music to whet your appetite. €€ CASSETTE CLUB, Sala Boite, c/Tetuan, 27 (Sol). Sun midnight-6am. myspace.com/clubcassette. Electro to help ease you into the working week with a smile on your face. A cool night for a cool crowd. €€ DARK HOLE, Sala Flamingo, c/Mesonero Romanos, 13 (Callao/Gran Vía). Sat 1-6am. myspace.com/darkholegothicclub. Madrid’s unofficial gothic headquarters. Listen to dark ambient, electro and goth music until dawn. €€ DOMINION CLUB, Sala Jala Jala, c/la Puebla, 6 (Callao/Gran Vía). Fri 10.30pm-3am. www.myspace.com/dominionclubmadrid DJs Fran Raven and guests spin a dark mix of EBM, dark electro, synth pop, industrial electro and future pop. FREE DU:OM, Sala Heineken, c/Princesa, 1 (Plaza de España). Fri-Sat midnight-6am. www.duomclub.com. Dress to impress and dance the night away to house and progressive house provided by some truly talented DJs: Hugo Serra, Iván Pica and Pombo. €€€ ELIXIR, Changó, c/Luchana (corner of Covarrubias) (Iglesia/Bilbao). Sat midnight-6am. A classy venue with good-looking people, hot gogos, decadent design and dance music till dawn. €€€ LOW CLUB, Sala Pirandello 1, c/Princesa, 3 (Plaza de España). FriSat midnight-6am. www.intromusica.com. Spend your weekends dancing away to resident and international DJs spinning the latest electro and techno beats. €€€ MI MADRE ERA UNA GROUPIE, c/Amor de Dios (Anton Martin). Thur-Fri-Sat. 10pm-3am. www.myspace.com/mimadreeraunagroupie
Enjoy the very best of britpop mixed in with a few rock and indie and Spanish pop oldies for good measure from DJs Double L, Rewind and Forward. Get in before midnight for the two drinks for 9€ entry deal. €€ MOMA 56, c/José Abascal, 56 (Gregorio Marañon). Wed-Sat midnight-6am. www.moma56.com. Dance to resident DJ Koke’s tunes at this disco bar. €€ MONDO, Sala Stella, c/Arlabán, 7 (Sevilla). Thur-Sat 0.30-6am. www.web-mondo.com. Funk and electronica feature in this fantastic venue located smack dab in the centre of town. Fridays lean more towards house, techno and electro under the night’s pseudonym, The Room. This is a place you night-owls won’t want to miss! €€ OHM, Plaza Callao, 4 (Callao). Fri-Sat midnight-6am. myspace.com/ohmclub. Great house DJs, great people and a great vibe. And don’t miss Weekend on Sundays, which features funky house. €€ 69 PÉTALOS, Avda Alberto de Alcocer, 32 (Cuzco/Colombia). Fri 11pm-6am. www.grupo69petalos.com With a shake-up of funk, RnB and popular house, plus cabaret, ludicrous outfits and general debauchery, the totally fabulous 69 Pétalos will leave you begging for more. €€ TWIST CLUB, @ Sala Pirandello, c/ Martin de los Heros 14 (Plaza de España) With the new year, a new chapter unfolds for Twist Club, Madrid´s N*1 weekly drum&bass night: the club moves to a new venue, still in the centre of Madrid though with more capacity and a bigger sound-system! The music policy stays true to its roots, with a selection of (inter) national dj’s playing across the full dnb spectrum. €€
reggae, funk, jazz & world music BERLÍN CABARET, c/Costanilla de San Pedro, 11. Mon, Tue, Wed: shows 1.30am; Thur: shows 1.30am & 3.30am; Fri, Sat: shows 1.30am, 2.30am & 3.30am. www.berlincabaret.com Located in La Latina, Berlín Cabaret attracts a diverse audience spilling out from the many bars in the area. It offers a lively, funky atmosphere with eclectic music ranging from the Jackson 5 to “La Lambada” and live cabaret shows, such as Psicosis Gonsales and In Drag. €€ LA BOCA DEL LOBO, c/Echegaray, 11 (Sevilla). Wed-Sat 10.30pm3.30am. www.labocadellobo.com Rock, funk, electronic jazz and rare groove served up four nights a week, plus live music. €€ COSTELLO, c/Caballero de Gracia, 10 (Gran Vía). Daily 6pm-3am. www.costelloclub.com. Everything from funk and electronic jazz to pop, rare groove and rock music. €€ EL JUGLAR, c/Lavapiés, 37 (Lavapiés). Daily midnight-3am. www.salajuglar.com. Get your daily dose of funk, house, reggae and breaks at this neighbourhood hotspot. € MARULA CAFÉ, c/Caños Viejos, 3 (La Latina). Daily 10.30pm-6am. www.marulacafe.com. Come and get your funk on at the palace of funk, also known as Marula Café. € SWEET FUNK CLUB, c/Doctor Cortezo, 1 (Sol/Tirso de Molina). Thur-Sat midnight-6am. sweetfunkclub.com. Feel free to get a little dirty at this hip-hop club near Sol. €
Flamenco LAS TABLAS, Plaza de España, 9 (Metro: Plaza de España). Tel: 91 542 05 20. www.lastablasmadrid.com CARDAMOMO, C/Echegaray, 15 (Metro: Sol). Tel: 91 369 07 57. www.cardamomo.es CASA PATAS, C/ Cañizares, 10 (Metro: Antón Martín). Tel: 91 369 04 96. www.casapatas.com
Celtic/folk The Irish Rover. Tel: 91 597 48 11 Taberna Elisa. Tel: 91 369 74 263
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moviereviews
Gabrielle Easter previews the big-screen releases heading to Madrid this month
Tickle your best friend.
Also out
■ BY NICK FUNNELL
The Tree of Life
Brooklyn’s Finest (Los amos de Brooklyn) Drugs, prostitution, violence and corruption are rampant on the impoverished streets of Brooklyn, New York, and are explored through the lives of three of Brooklyn’s cops. Richard Gere plays Eddie, a policeman one week away from retirement after 20 years in the force, who before leaving, reluctantly agrees to train two other officers. The first is narcotics cop Sal, played by Ethan Hawke, who has spent 12 years in the same job struggling to make ends meet and provide for his pregnant wife and five kids, often torn between crossing lines and being an honest cop. The second is Tango, played by Don Cheadle, who has been working undercover for three years but desperately wants his normal life back after slipping into a gangster lifestyle and finding himself a little more attached to the criminals than the force. All three are differently involved in a massive antidrug operation in one of New York’s most dangerous precincts, and find themselves struggling to find the balance between work and life, corruption and honesty, making a difference or just making it through the day. Training Day’s Antoine Fuqua calls the shots on this crime drama, which fits a similar mould to his earlier success—New York cop action movie with religion and morals thrown in for good measure. Out 16 Sept
London Boulevard The Academy Award winning writer William Monahan (The Departed, Body of Lies) turns his hand to directing in this gangster movie looking to fill the shoes of Guy Ritchie’s Lock Stock and Two Smoking Barrels. Colin Farrell plays Mitchel, a thug who’s just out of prison, but looking to leave his bad boy ways behind. However, his past is making it hard for him to start a new life and unreliable, dodgy friend Billy (Ben Chaplin) keeps leading him into unwanted situations. Things get tougher when Mitchel is introduced to Gant (Ray Winstone), a London underground boss who’s looking to recruit a highly reputable man. At the same time, Mitchel takes a job as personal security guard to reclusive, xenophobic superstar Charlotte, played by Pirates of the Caribbean’s Keira Knightley, who’s hiding away from the world and the incessant paparazzi. Based on the novel by Ken Bruen, which was a homage to the 1950’s film
13 Assassins
The Tree of Life
Sunset Boulevard, London Boulevard has a lot of potential but is exposed by a weak plot that relies heavily on a professional cast and talented crew including Oscar award-winning cinematographer Chris Menges (The Killing Fields, The Mission). Out 23 Sept
The Tree of Life (El árbol de la vida) The Tree of Life is director Terrence Malick’s (The Thin Red Line) fifth film in a 40-year career. An experimental musing on the meaning of existence, it follows a disillusioned man (Sean Penn) as he looks back on his 1950s Midwest childhood and his relationship with his strict father (Brad Pitt) and angelic mother (Jessica Chastain). Since its premiere at this year’s Cannes Film Festival the movie has both wowed and baffled viewers with its impressionistic narrative and stunning imagery, which include scenes of dinosaurs and the birth of the universe, the latter created by legendary special effects guru Douglas Trumbull (2001: A Space Odyssey). Despite critics being significantly divided in their responses, it took home the top prize of the Palme d’Or. Its originality and philosophical aspect, dealing with reconciliation, faith, disillusionment and the meaning of life, along with its credibility in the portrayal of family relationships, make this an unusual treat. Furthermore, Brad Pitt’s performance has been highly praised, possibly as the strongest of his career. Out 16 Sept
bookbuzz Herring on the Nile L C Tyler MacMillan Protagonists Ethelred Tressider and his literary agent Elsie go on a trip down the Nile in an attempt to revive Tressider’s flagging career as a crime novelist, but no sooner has the boat lifted anchor than an attempt is made on his life. Later, when the boat’s engine fails and a body is discovered, everyone aboard becomes a suspect. It does not take a degree in 1920s crime novel studies to recognise that all the markers in Tyler’s book point to those employed by the undisputed queen of crime fiction: Agatha Christie. Events such as the boat trip down the Nile, and the early murder attempt are classic Christie constructs. Tyler remains faithful to her style, with the exception of the Belgian super-sleuth’s replacement by the struggling crime writer. Nevertheless, there are plenty of MI5 spies and Lords on board, all acting as plausible suspects. At times, it is difficult to ascertain whether Tyler’s book is pastiche or a tribute, although on occasions it manages to be both simultaneously. The pace is slower than Christie’s usual tempo, and the fact that the murder takes place someway into the tale leaves little time for the resolution of the crime or the dénouement, which is a shame. However, the plot is rich, the writing witty and it’s engaging throughout. Harriet Smart
The Immortal Life of Henrietta Lacks Rebecca Skloot Pan You have probably never heard of Henrietta Lacks, but in some
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13 Assassins (13 Asesinos) Director of more than 70 films in his two-decade career (most notably the creepy psychological thriller Audition), Takashi Miike’s latest is a samurai flick set in mid-19th century Japan that finds an expert warrior training a crack team of swordsmen to hunt down the psychotic, trouble-making younger brother of the Shogun. With blood by the hoseful, it’s been hailed as a new classic of the genre by critics. Out now Cowboys & Aliens James Bond and Indiana Jones, that’s to say Daniel Craig and Harrison Ford, come together for Iron Man director Jon Favreau’s genre-mash-up, adapted from the 2006 graphic novel of the same no-nonsense name. Craig plays a lone gunslinger in 1875 New Mexico Territory who, with no memory of his past, stumbles into the town of Absolution, run by the high-handed Ford. It’s only when alien attackers start swooping down and whisking off the locals that Craig begins to remember what happened and can concoct a plan to stop them. 2 Sept The Skin I Live In (La Piel que Habito) The latest film from local-boy-made-good Pedro Almodóvar is an unsettling drama that sees him reunited with old pal Antonio Banderas for the first time since 1990’s Tie Me Up! Tie Me Down!. Señor Flags stars as a plastic surgeon who, following the death of his wife in a car crash, is obsessed with creating a synthetic skin that might have saved her life. With Elena Anaya, Blanca Suárez and Marisa Paredes. 2 Sept Fright Night (Noche de Miedo) Anton Yelchin (Star Trek) stars as a high-school kid
respects she is everywhere. There are more than several trillion of her cells in the world. Before her death from cervical cancer in 1951, doctors took some of her cancerous tissue, without her consent or knowledge. They discovered that her cells, known as “HeLa” cells, are like no other—because of their rapid reproduction rate, they are essentially immortal. Their immortality has meant that they have permitted countless medical breakthroughs in recent years, from the creation of the polio vaccine to treatments for AIDS. Rebecca Skloot’s book explores the woman to whom the cells belonged: an African-American from Virginia, and the grand-daughter of a slave, Henrietta’s life is equally as fascinating as her death. The theme is ultimately one of the exploitation of the vulnerable. It explores the reaction of her descendants to the news that their relative had played such a crucial role in many of modern science’s recent breakthroughs, and it shows the irony that her family cannot afford the life-saving medicines that their own heritage created. Skloot’s style is plain and without melodrama, and she does not pass judgments on events or actions, allowing the reader to draw their own conclusion from this astonishing story. Harriet Smart
Electrified Sheep Alex Boese Boxtree Ever wondered what would happen if scientists tried to blow up the moon? Or if a hen can be resuscitated following an electric shock? Or perhaps how scientists first discovered the inner workings of the human digestive system? In his new book Electrified Sheep, Alex Boese provides answers and anecdotes to all the weird and wonderful questions you never had about scientific discoveries. One of the most compelling and fascinating chapters documents how, in the eighteenth century, scientist Lazzaro Spallanzani swallowed different foods and inanimate objects in an attempt to
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who comes to the conclusion that his new next-door neighbour, Colin Farrell, is a vampire in this 3D revamp (geddit?) of the 1985 comedy-horror. 9 Sept The Debt (La Deuda) A remake of the 2007 Israeli thriller of the same name, this film from Shakespeare in Love director John Madden takes place across two time periods as a secret 1960s mission to track down a Nazi war criminal comes back to haunt Mossad agents Helen Mirren, Tom Wilkinson and Ciarán Hinds in the 1990s. Jessica Chastain (The Tree of Life, see left), Marton Csokas (The Lord of the Rings) and Sam Worthington (Avatar) play the 60s versions of the trio, while the screenplay is by Matthew Vaughn, Jane Goldman (Kick-Ass) and Peter Straughan. 9 Sept Arrietty (Arrietty y el Mundo de los Diminutos) The latest work from Japan’s Ghibli animation studios (Spirited Away) is a loose adaptation of Mary Norton’s classic children’s book about tiny people, The Borrowers. Animation legend Hayao Miyazaki, founder of Ghibli, co-wrote the screenplay and supervised production, while newcomer Hiromasa Yonebayashi directs. 16 Sept Horrible Bosses (Cómo Acabar con tu Jefe) Three put-upon employees, Jason Bateman, Charlie Day and Jason Sudeikis, seek help from murder consultant Jamie Foxx to rid the world of their three horrible bosses—sexually predatory dentist Jennifer Aniston, slave-driving exec Kevin Spacey and toxic waste-dumping “total tool” Colin Farrell— in director Seth Gordon’s comedy. 16 Sept
know more about our digestive system. He was the first to prove that digestion is a chemical rather than mechanical process by bravely (or stupidly) using himself as a guinea pig. Another enlightening, and quite shocking story, explains how one American university professor had plans to “eliminate” the moon, to make the Earth not tilt on its axis, so that sunlight could be spread evenly across the planet. The stories are informative, amusing and original, easy to dip in and out of, and the author adds colour by starting each chapter with his own dramatic interpretation of how the events may have unfolded. Occasionally the tales run to more pages than they merit, but Boese has clearly done extensive research and he makes the stories easily accessible to non-scientists. Harriet Smart
Los Hombres de Bolton Paul A Rose Matador “A fun-fuelled trip from Bolton to the north of Spain and Madrid” reads the by-line on the cover of Paul A Rose’s novel, and sure enough it’s a tale of wild nights, adventures and romance. The four protagonists—Dave Atkinson, Ian Taylor, Stan Stead and Brian Horrocks—are in their mid-forties, and decide to take a road trip after Dave unexpectedly loses his job but receives a large redundancy payment. The lads embark on a ferry trip to Bilbao to set their travel plans in motion, and anyone who knows the north of Spain will identify with the route that follows, which takes them through wonderful cities and villages such as Cangas de Onis, Santillana del Mar and Santiago de Compostela. The book captures the voices of the characters throughout, with the exchanges and conversation reflecting their comic tones and comments as their journey unfolds. The humour compounds through the people they meet, the tricks they play, and the countless mistakes and blunders that are made, which will be familiar to anyone who’s undertaken a similar trip at any time. Their journey culminates in Madrid, via Salamanca, as the gang take in all the famous sights and even manage to participate in a bullfight of sorts. A fun read, especially for those who know Spain, or would like to know it. Tim Inkling
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Eating & Drinking great ideas for eating out in Madrid
Bangkok
Thai Restaurant The authentic taste of Thailand in Madrid
Excellent Thai Cuisine
c/San Bernardino, 6. Metro: Plaza de España. Tel: 91 559 83 15
Find out how you can reach our 66,000 readers Call marketing on 91 523 30 91
c/Arenal, 15 (esquina Bordadores, 13) Tel: 915 591 696. Metros Sol or Ópera.
VEGAVIANA Vegetarian restaurant in the heart of Madrid Daily Menu 9,70
c/Pelayo, 35 (Metro: Chueca) Tel: 91 308 03 81. Open Tues-Sun 1:30-4pm. Tues-Sat 9-midnight. Closed Sunday & Monday
service guide service guide service guide service guide service guide Books & Coffee
Counselling
PSYCHOTHERAPIST COUNSELOR David Hugener MSW US Trained/Licensed
Help in relationships, emotional distress, problem solving. Brief or longer-term therapy for individuals and couples. Sliding Scale Free Consultation Tel: 91 594 22 08 or 626 16 00 24 Argüelles area
Obstetrics & Gynecology Computer Services
Need help with your computer? ! Effective and professional staff ! Secure and reliable service ! YOU are in control Whether you need some help with a program or have a problem with your Windows or Mac system, we can help you remotely or come to where you are.
902 24 64 24 www.benn.es
Mediation
FAMILY INTERNET SECURITY SERVICES TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE B2B NETWORK AND COMPUTER O&M
Therapies
Care for the Elderly
Language Services
Home Entertainment
Paperwork (Gestoría)
Language Services
Spanish for foreigners 1 Small groups 1 All levels (D.E.L.E. Official Exam) c/Fuencarral, 13-2º, 28004 Madrid Tel: 91 522 31 22. Fax: 91 532 85 09. e-mail: info@carpemadrid.com www.carpemadrid.com
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service guide service guide service guide service guide service guide Language Services
Language Services
C.E.E. -Idiomas
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Spanish Language School - All levels - Preparation for DELE Exam - Cultural activities
Also ENGLISH - FRENCH GERMAN - ITALIAN
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40 HOURS MONTHLY * Groups or private classes * Special classes for companies c/Carmen, 6 — 28013 Madrid 91 522 04 72 - 91 521 10 04 91 522 18 57 - 91 531 38 56 e-mail: info@cee-idiomas.com W W W. I N - M A D R I D . C O M
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service guide service guide service guide service guide service guide Work Offered
Work out — health and fitness
Work Offered
We build mutually beneficial relationships between people in the UK and other countries and increase appreciation of the UK’s creative ideas and achievements. In Spain, the British Council undertakes a wide variety of cultural activities and exchanges and manages a large examinations programme, a school and over a dozen teaching centres. The teaching centres in Madrid and the surrounding area wish to appoint teachers of English as a foreign language for the academic year starting in October 2011. The post holders will teach young learners (between the ages of 5 and 18) and/or adults. Our minimum requirements are: ● ● ● ●
English to the level of, or a level comparable to, a first language English communicator education to degree level or equivalent a recognised, relevant teaching qualification two years’ relevant experience post-qualification
Letters of application, together with an up-to-date curriculum vitae in English, should be emailed to: Recruitment.Madrid@britishcouncil.es or mailed to EFL Teacher Recruitment, British Council, Pº del General Martinez Campos, 31 28010 Madrid
Given the large number of applications normally received, we will not respond to those applicants who do not clearly meet our minimum requirements. The British Council is committed to safeguarding and promoting the welfare of children and young people, and a policy of equal opportunity and diversity, and expects all staff and stakeholders to share this commitment. www.britishcouncil.es The British Council is the United Kingdom’s international organisation for educational opportunities and cultural relations. We are registered in England as a charity.
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MADRID SCHOOL OF LANGUAGES is looking for qualified, experienced, native English, French, and German teachers for the 2011-2012 academic year. We provide young learner, adult and business classes, and we offer a competitve salary. If you would like to become a part of our team, please send your CV to: coordinador@madridschool.com
NATIVE ENGLISH TEACHERS REQUIRED Starting October to June. 20â‚Ź/hour Classes: 1,20pm to 3pm and/or 5 to 5,50pm Mon-Fri Students 4-12yrs old, small groups. Nice School near Plaza Castilla. Enthusiastic applicants, E-mail cv with picture attached to:
interlan.ingles@hotmail.com
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The InMadrid classifieds section is the perfect way to reach the English-speaking international community. To place an ad, visit inmadrid.com and click on classifieds. Obtain the best response from your ad in the shortest time by choosing one of our economical, combined print&online packages,
from as little as 8,33 / month. online-only ads in many categories are
FREE
Visit inmadrid.com and click on classifieds to create your account. DEADLINE FOR NEXT MONTH’S ISSUE IS 22ND OF THIS MONTH. Ads received after this date will be published in the following issue. NOTE: InMadrid is not responsible for the contents of its classified ads. It is the reader’s responsibility to investigate the authenticity of advertisers.
theatre scene? DON’T BE SHY come and join us. New members always welcome. madridplayers@gmail.com Club house: Plaza Perseo, 9 Metro Conde Casal Information: Find us on Facebook. www.madridplayers.org www.madridplayers.blogspot.com Tel. 916322991.
clubs-general-social
accommodation accommodation-offered FURNISHED CENTRAL FLAT FOR RENT, 3 bedrooms, bathroom, kitchen, living room and dining room, with all amenities, 5 mins tube, would suit English teachers. €390 each bedroom. Call Margaret on 634 801 575. BIG ROOMS CENTRO MADRID Big rooms for rent in a house, Centro Madrid easy walking distance to 2 metro stations cercanias,bus,free parking rooms are bright and airy as there are lots of windows,All mod cons in huge kitchen and an outside patio,internet,musical thread,Soils radiant 290€ .680653202 carlosgasanz@yahoo.es. 32M2 COZY DUPLEX FOR SHORT OR LONG RENTALS: BILBAO Refurbished 32m2 duplex available for short/long term lets. Upstairs equipped with double bed & chest of drawers. Downstairs theres a wardrobe, 2 seater white sofa, bathroom with shower & kitchenette with washing machine, 2 burner hob & large fridge. 1 min walk from Bilbao metro, 3 mins from Tribunal & 2 mins from the popular Mañuela Malasaña area. Email: rentals@innovate.es Tel: 670681435. NEWLY REFURBISHED 25M2 LOFT STUDIO/DUPLEX-TRIBUNAL For short or long term lets we have this top floor newly refurbished 25m2 loft studio duplex with or without furniture and appliances. In the very sought after area of Tribunal close to an abundance of bars, restaurants, nightlife and clubs. €730 Tel: 670681435 Email: rentals@innovate.es. 42M2 REFURBISHED 1 BED APT SHORT/LONG LETS: CHUECA 42m2 cozy, bright, quiet, newly painted, 2nd floor 1 bed furnished flat in the much sought after area of Chueca. Good sized bedroom with double bed & large wardrobe. Living room with exterior facing window, sofa bed & 4 place foldable dinner table. Kitchen with 4 burner electric stove, tall fridge freezer, washing machine & living room serving hatch. Email: rentals@innovate.es Tel: 670681435. ROOM IN SHARED FLAT FOR SHORT/LONG LETS - CHAMBERI Lovely 10m2 room available for €560 in spacious 170m2 6 bed shared flat with mixed international atmosphere. To share with students & professionals aged between 20 and 35. Living room with two sofas & kitchen with oven, dishwasher & two large fridges. Price includes internet and expenses. One Full Bathroom & One WC, Double & Twin Rooms Available @ €650 Email: marketing@innovate.es Tel: 670681435. NEW LUX 14M2 ROOM WITH A/C, TV & BALCONY: TRIBUNAL Newly refurbished 100m2 4 bed flat with 4 luxury 14m2 double rooms to let with prices from €630 to €750 all with private A/C, flat screen TV & fridge, Rooms with large cupboard, desk, chair, chest of draws, 2 lamps & storage area built into the bed for suitcases. 2 full bathrooms & fully equipped kitchen with oven, 4 burner hob & dishwasher €630 Email: rentals@innovate.es Tel: 670681435. ROOM PER WEEK IN THE HEART OF MADRID ROOM PER WEEK IN MADRID CENTER - DOWNTOWN / CHAMBERI. Room per week in downtown Madrid. METRO LINE, 2 QUEVEDO, CANAL, 7 and MONCLOA 6 and 3. At this time available. The room is used for Spanish courses, university practices, or to live the first week while looking for a room or apartment you like. The apartment is at the heart of the city (Metro L2, L3, L7 and L6, three stations of the Sol, and buses) Price 125 € per week individual Telefono: 677 82 81 76 MARIA Mail: mdoloresrac@hotmail.com. 30M2 BRIGHT STUDIO FOR SHORT/LONG LETS-ANTON MARTI 19th Century bright 3rd floor quiet 30m2 fully furnished studio available for short / long term lets 5 mins walk from Anton Martin, Tirso de Molina & Lavapies Line 1 & 3 metro stations. Separate kitchen & dressing area. Windows & skylights. Real wood beams. No elevator. Ideal as a siteseeing base for a short term let or a longer term professional home €650 Email: rentals@innovate.es Tel: 670681435.
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IN 4 CAMINOS ROOM TO RENT In 4 CAMINOS, room to rent in a flat with another girl. Completly furnished apartment. The room to rent has a big table to study. 400 euros month + expenses apart + 1 month deposit. Call diana: 676 15 69 87. 10M2 ROOM IN FIVE BED REFURBISHED FLAT - ARGUELLES Two 10m2 single rooms available in this 160m2 5 bedroom flat for short or long term lets with exterior facing balcony. 1 min walk from Arguelles metro station & 3 mins walk from the Moncloa transport hub. Rooms with single bed, desk, chair & wardrobe. The flat has a exterior facing living room with balcony, tv & two two seater sofas. Kitchen with oven €480 Email: rentals@innovate.es Tel: 670681435.
babysitting WE ARE LOOKING FOR AU-PAIRS We are looking for native english speaking people as au-pairs. Call 91 277 97 30 / 662 369 112 http://www.cuidadorasbilingues.com.
books OPEN SUNDAYS J&J Books and Coffee now open on Sundays. Buy, sell, and trade your English books plus great food, drinks and events available. C/Espiritu Santo, 47. Metro: Noviciado. Call: 91 521 85 76.
classes spanish LEARN SPANISH EASILY! Make learning funny with experienced teachers. References available. All levels and purposes: survival, business, etc. We go to your place and provide the material. 60-minute class 30e / 90-minute class 40e. Small groups (up to 4) at same price 686808091 / 646806402 mgil2000@hotmail.com. SPANISH CLASSES I am a Spanish teacher with 25 years experience. I am looking for “One to one “ classes (All levels). Role- play conversation, grammar, business,DELE examination. Also there are Openings for a shared class at any level FOR FIRST MONTH YOU PAY FOR ONLY 3 WEEKS. Maria : 699331505 91.7736471 gretachic@yahoo.es. SPANISH CLASSES Qualified native teacher with experience. One to one or groups. Grammar, conversation. DELE.Revision text. Zone: Moncloa or in your place. From 15 euros negotiable. Cristina 656 634 343. Email: cristina_dom@hotmail.com. SPANISH CLASSES IN CENTRAL MADRID Learn Spanish easily with experienced teacher, graduate by International House. One to one or groups. Materials provided. Grammar and conversation for all levels. DELE exam. Contact Javier: 661 871 239 mail: javiersanjoseespeso@hotmail.com web: http://javiersanjoseespeso.jimdo.com.
english TWINKLETOTS ENGLISH PLAYSONGS WITH SARA CAMPBELL For English & Spanish Parents and Babies from 9 months to 3 years. Accompanied by the guitar, we sing traditional english nursery rhymes and playsongs. Every song has its’ actions or related activity that help your child to understand and remember the content. They learn english word by word while developing their sense of rhythm, physical coordination and musical ear. Its a lovely opportunity for parents to share and help their child in their learning experience. 45 mins, 8€ per child. To find out where your nearest class is, or to organise one for your local community call Sara: 637553969. other-languages
clubs clubs-art MADRID PLAYERS MADRID PLAYERS English amateur theatre group for all nationalities. Are you the new budding actor, singer, dancer or just want to be part of the
THE GUILD AT ST. GEORGE’S Invites you to join an informal talk given on a wide range of subjects by Writers, Travellers, Diiplomats etc. We meet at 10.30am on the First Tuesday of every month from October to June also LIBRARY attached Open every Sunday Tuesday & Wednesday. Contact for more information Jenny Tel. 915478913 email: jennyeffer@hotmail.com or Stephen Tel.650984329 email madridbeast@hotmail.com. PARENT AND CHILD GROUP Parent and Child Group in Madrid. If you are new in town or a single parent looking to meet other parents with kids or simply want to expand your child’s network of friends then join us for walks and outings with the kids. All nationalities welcome. Write to roseantrobus@yahoo.es or call 626 065 482. Thanks!.
clubs-sports SNOOKER 4 table Snooker Club looking for new members. Open daily from 5PM to 11PM. Please cue Mark on 618 784 550 or visit www.snookermadrid.com. MADRID LIONS RUGBY FOOTBALL CLUB, EST. 1997 Madrid Lions Rugby Football Club welcomes new players of all levels and nationalities. Pub night Thursdays from 8.30pm at Finnegan’s, Plaza de las Salesas (Metro Alonso Martínez or Chueca) where you can find out why we are Madrid’s most popular and successful social rugby club. Check out www.madridlionsrfc.com, email info@madridlionsrfc.com or ring Charlie on 636 067 716 or Paul on 679 225 067. MADRID CRICKET CLUB Madrid Cricket Club is always looking for new players of all levels and nationalities. We hold regular training sessions and friendly matches in Madrid from March to November and we have two teams in the Spanish Cricket League. For more info contact Joss (663 395 058) or Jon (655 069 9 11), send an E-mail to cricketinmadrid@yahoo.co.uk or visit www.cricketinmadrid.com.
counselling COUNSELLING MADRID Counselling Madrid is devoted to the international community in Madrid. We provide confidential counselling services to students, expats and spouses. Visit our website for more details: www.counsellingmadrid.org. PSYCHOLOGY/PSYCHIATRY/SPEECH& OCCUPATIONAL THERAPY Counseling/Psychology, Psychiatry, Speech and Occupational therapy services in English and Spanish (some services also available in other languages) for all ages. Our staff of professionals has vast clinical experience helping adults and children in the Englishspeaking community in Madrid with depression, anxiety, cultural adaptation, couples/relationship problems, sensory impairments, language disorders and more. www.sinews.es Address: C/ Zurbano, 34, 1ºizq. Madrid 28010 Telephone: 91 700 19 79 Fax: 91 308 23 72.
for-sale BED BASE FOR SALE (150X190) Upholstered bed base (150x190) for sale. Suitable for viscoelastic/foam mattresses. 80€. Contact Lucy Tel. 639517285.
health-and-fitness ASHTANGA YOGA ,THAI MASSAGE &THAI COOKING CLASS My name is Amorn from Thailand. I live in Madrid almost two years now. I am Ashtanga Yoga teacher and also offer Thai Massage (certified from Wat Pho Traditional Medical School in Bangkok Thailand) and Thai cooking classes at home and outside. My place is located in the center of Madrid, metro Goya and Principe de Vergara. For more information about me and price for Yoga, Thai massage and cooking class, please kindly check at my website: www.BAAN-AMORN.COM or write me at: BRIESELANG70@YAHOO.DE.
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heart-to-heart hetero LOOKING FOR FOREIGNER GIRL, INTELIGENTE, LECTORA, agradable y tranquila, para amistad y quizá más. Soy profesor de Francés, 42 (parezco 35), delgado, 1m80, paciente, tímido pero provocador, no fumo ni bebo ni drogas, bailo fatal. Me encanta leer de todo, pensar, mi trabajo y los chavales, aprender, las manualidades y diseñar, el deporte (correr, bici, nadar, sobre todo), viajar, las buenas conversaciones en sitios sin ruido, je cuisine bien, ñam, ñam... , los gatos, sorprender, explorar, soñar, los retos, la luz de las sonrisas, y el cariño. Ah, mi jerbo se llama Malaria. Y todas las plantas se me mueren. Gustavo. dcufacuc@gmail.com.
intercambios groups MULTILINKUAL INTERNATIONAL FRIENDS IN MADRID Multilinkual.com Meet new people and practice languages, FREE. Tuesdays (O’Neill’s, Príncipe 12, 22h), Thursdays (Beer Station, Santo Domingo square, 22h), Fridays (o.v. movies at Cine Ideal, 4D pub, Jacinto Benavente square), ask for David. Also dinners, trips... puestres@yahoo.es, Facebook: Multilinkual. MADRIDBABEL: INTERNATIONAL ACTIVITIES IN MADRID!!! Meet people from all over the world, practise languages absolutely FREE & make new friends through our wide range of international activities: EVERY WEDNESDAY > International Evening from 20:30 at The Quiet Man (Valverde 44 metro Tribunal or Gran Vía). EVERY SUNDAY > International Afternoon from 19:00 at The Quiet Man (Valverde 44 - metro Tribunal or Gran Vía). EVERY WEEK-END > Films in o.v., international dinners, tapas evenings, excursions, sports, wine tastings, cultural visits, parties & many other activities!! For more info contact Fran (madridbabel@yahoo.es) or visit www.madridbabel.es.
jobs jobs-offered ENGLISH TEACHERS FOR ACADEMIC COURSE We are currently looking for native teachers with TEFL or similar who are interested in teaching mainly in the afternoons. We are an optimistic group of people who love English and those who speak it, either as learners or teachers. Our services range from onsite classes to toddlers and children to business classes and exam preparation. Two centres located near Piramides tube station. Contract offered. Minimum requirements: basic Spanish and some experience with young children. We start interviews in September, but course starts in October. Contact info: lctidiomas.news@gmail.com. PR PERSON FOR SURF CAFE Looking for a fun and outgoing person Marketing and social relationships skills required Possibility of increasing the salary www.angletcafe.com http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/AngletCafe/173020582718497?sk=wall 670 88 68 77. JOB OFFERED ADVERTISING SALES person for English magazine. Speak Spanish. Call Violetta at: 91 548 01 07. NATIVE ESL TEACHER FOR SAN MARTIN DE LA VEGA Estudio Sotomayor Idiomas is looking for an experienced NATIVE ENGLISH TEACHER for a mid-afternoon course in San Martin de la Vega. Experience teaching advanced ESL and exam preparation, university degree and TEFL certificate or CAP, and permission to work in Spain are required. A car is necessary for this location. Late afternoon classes in Getafe may also be available. Competitive pay and a transport bonus. Send CV to: empleo@soto-mayor.com tel. 91.35314 06. NATIVE SPEAKERS NEEDED FOR COMPANY CLASSES In English seeks experienced native speaker teachers for incompany classes starting in September and October. We offer a stable timetable and calendar, block hours and good rates of pay. Send CV to profesores@inenglish.es tel: 91 402 94 99 mobile: 620 46 11 28.
ENGLISH & GERMAN SPEAKING SALES CONSULTANT Environmental Expert.com is the industry’s leading web-based information resource and marketplace. Full-time SALES CONSULTANTS are needed to join our international professional sales team based in Madrid, Spain. Candidates must have European residency, work permit (where applicable), fluent English. You will need strong organisational skills with previous telephone sales experience, demonstrating the consistent delivery of results. You must be selfmotivated, results focussed and have a strong desire to succeed & improve. Email: pwe.ee@environmental-expert.com.
services LIVELY CELTIC MUSIC Talented Irish musicians available for concerts, functions, weddings and parties. Tel: 654 225 305. PIANO TUNING AND SERVICES We provide an expert piano tuning, maintenance and repair service throughout Madrid, Avila, Segovia and Toledo info@lasteclasnegras.com Tel.: 661530299. COMPUTERS / NETWORKS / WEBSITES System administrator offers professional service. Computer / laptop repair, data recovery, password recovery, IT infrastructure planning, software installation and maintenance, network administration, resolving email problems, IT security, backup solutions, web pages. Windows, Linux/UNIX supported. I speak English and German. email: info@jjaeger.fastmail.fm or Mobile: +34 65 335 11 36. FOODSMITHS MADRID British, Irish and American food and drink. Suppliers to bars, restaurants, shops and NOW the general public. Fully registered with Health authorities. We keep overheads low so that we can offer you great prices. No website, no shop but we do have a collection point in the heart of Madrid. For amazing quality food from home at very low prices then Foodsmiths is your best place to buy in Madrid. Wholesale prices available for businesses dependent on volume. email: foodsmiths@ymail.com.
travel-adventure TRAIN TO BE A TOUR MANAGER/ GUIDE 3 day residential training course in Sherborne, Dorset, UK. 28 - 30 October 2011. Must speak fluent english, foreign languages an advantage. For further information email: claireh@casterbridge-tours.co.uk.
Hundreds more ads online in many different categories at inmadrid.com
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