InMadrid August 2012 Issue

2 AUGUST 2012

MADRID IN ENGLISH

Cover photo: Tony Norman interviews Jimi Hendrix, by Chris Walter. www.chriswalterphorgraphy.com

4 SCENE What’s new in town

5 MADWORLD Top Ten List: Reasons not to head to the coast, Fairy Tales, Curiosity Shop

6 A NIGHT ON THE TILES A bar crawl to take in Madrid’s rooftop terraces

6 ELEVATING TROUBLES The trials and tribulations of meeting strangers in confined spaces

7 JUST THE TICKET Four public bus routes to see the sights of the city

8 TAKE FIVE The best film releases

8 BOOKBUZZ Jonas Jonasson’s The Hundred-Year-Old Man Who Climbed Out Of The Window And Disappeared, and Paul Read’s Inside The Tortilla

8 CONCERT HIGHLIGHTS August gigs—Niskerone, The Naked Heroes and The Hard-Ons

photo

8 FOR THE RECORD

competition

This month’s album reviews—Las Migas and Silvia Pérez Cruz

9 NIGHTLIFE

Just send us a photo of someone Find us on facebook: reading InMadrid in an unusual place www.facebook.com/InMadrid.magazine or way to have the possibility of winning lunch for two in Madrid’s wonderful vegetarian restaurant, El Estragón.

The best club nights in August, plus listings

10 MONTH AHEAD: ART & THEATRE

There are two ways to enter: send your photo to our email address (competitions@inmadrid.com), or upload the photo on our facebook page. We have had photos from all parts of the world but to have a better chance of winning, we are more interested in photos taken in Madrid or the surrounding area, the idea being to take a photo of somebody reading InMadrid in a strange way or in a strange place. Be creative, and most importantly, have fun!

Where to go and what to see

10 MAN OF THE MATCH Interview with John Fortune, an English football commentator on Spanish TV

11 WRITE ON! 12 CURED OF THE JAMÓN LOTTERY A guide for taking the misery out of the meat counter

Quieres anunciar en InMadrid?

Email us! ¡Escribenos! marketing@in-madrid.com or Call us! ¡Llamanos!

618 434 067 MADRID IN ENGLISH

ad index BARS/CLUBS

DANCE ACADEMIES

PUBS

PICNIC, p9 TABERNA CHICA, p9

FLOW DANCE ACADEMY, p7

O’NEILL’S, p2

JOB OFFERS

RESTAURANTS

See Service Guide, p12-14

See Restaurant Guide, p13

TUPPERWARE, p9 INTRUSO BAR, p7

DENTISTS CISNE DENTAL, ENGLISH DENTIST, p9

LANGUAGE SERVICES See Service Guide, p13 & 14

PUBLISHED BY: CITYSCOPE S.L. (UNIPERSONAL) MANAGING DIRECTOR: NICK HAUGHTON • EDITOR: JEFF WISEMAN • DESIGN: KNIC • MARKETING AND SALES: marketing@in-madrid.com • ADMIN: ELENA ORTIZ • DISTRIBUTION: RAFA PÉREZ • ART: THE TRIO • MUSIC (REVIEWS): RUSSELL PARTON • MUSIC (GIGS): FAYE HARRISON • NIGHTLIFE: RICHARD LEWINGTON • SCENE: LAURA STEPHENS • THEATRE: WILD OSCAR • INTERNS: LAURA STEPHENS, HANNAH COWDREY, VICKY KNILL, POLLY ACKROYD, ALEXANDRA SHEFFIELD, LOTTIE GODWIN • THANKS TO: NICK FUNNELL • WEBMASTER: KNIC • PRINT: IMCODAVILA Views expressed in InMadrid are the opinions of the writers and are not necessarily endorsed by the publishers. Although we make every effort to quote the correct prices and opening hours for establishments mentioned in the magazine, it is possible some may have changed since we went to press. All advertisements are published in good faith.

InMadrid cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions in individual ads or accept responsibility for work, service or goods.

InMadrid is published by CityScope SL (unipersonal), c/Marqués de Valdeiglesias, 6-4ºA — 28004 Madrid.

Unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and artwork will not be returned unless accompanied by sufficient postage. D.L.: M-11696-96.

STAFF

Photo (CC) flickr: ejmc

Sixties music journalist Tony Norman talks about the heroes and style of the decade, and his new book, My Cool Sixties: Lennon, Jagger & The Rest

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THIS MONTH: WIN LUNCH FOR TWO AT EL ESTRAGÓN VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT

IRISH ROVER, p5

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If you’re interested in collaborating, send your CV, samples of journalistic writing and ideas for articles to editor@in-madrid.com

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AUGUST 2012

3

scene

Catch the New York Ska Jazz Ensemble at Gruta 77 on Mon, 6 and Wed, 8 August.

Tickets from 12. See www.gruta77.com

■ LAURA STEPHENS in which young cutting-edge designers show off their talents. El Ego has steadily risen in importance since its inauguration in 2006, and is now one of the most talked about and eagerly anticipated parts. This autumn’s up-and-comers have yet to be announced, but exciting, new and innovative designs can be expected. Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, IFEMA Feria de Madrid. Parque Ferial Juan Carlos I. (Metro: Campo de las naciones). 12-9pm, 30 Aug-4 Sept

Jerez en Madrid: Original Flamenco Festival A new festival for Madrid brings more than 50 flamenco artists to the Teatro Compac Gran Vía, using the city of Jerez, known for its unique vitality and identity for flamenco singing and dancing, as its banner. The are 40 performances, and each week offers a large-scale dance show, such as Jerez puro, esencia by the María del Mar Moreno company, or ¡Viva Jerez!, a production by the prestigious Jerez Festival. The season is supplemented by dance courses, exhibitions, wine tastings, and food sampling of typical Jerez products. Jerez en Madrid. Original Flamenco Festival. Teatro Compac Gran Vía, Gran Vía, 66 (Metro: Santo Domingo/Plaza de España). Tel: 91 541 55 69. Tues-Sat, 8.30pm; Sun, 7.30pm. 8 Aug-2 Sep. See www.gruposmedia.com/obra299.html

Cine de Verano For the 13th consecutive year madrileños can while away the summer evenings at one of 38 open-air pop-up cinemas in the Community of Madrid. With nearly three hundred screenings taking place in various pueblos around the capital, the programme comprises 43 recently made films from Spanish and international cinema, although not in original version—nonSpanish language films are dubbed. Movies include Fernando Trueba’s animated Cuban hit Chico & Rita, Montxo Armendáriz’s disturbing tale of child abuse No tengas miedo and Achero Mañas’s Todo lo que tu quieras. Tom Hooper’s Oscar-winning El discurso del rey (The King’s Speech), Woody Allen’s Midnight in Paris and Rob Marshall’s Piratas del caribe. En mareas misteriosas (Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides) are just three of the international features, and children’s films include Kung Fu Panda 2, Shrek felices para siempre and Toy Story 3. The village locations range from Ajalvir to Villarejo de Salvanes, but there’s one slightly more central option—the Terraza Centro Cultural Paco Rabal (Cercanía: El Pozo). Cine de Verano, various locations until 3 Sept. For full details see www.madrid.org/cinedeverano/

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Design by Agatha Ruiz de la Prada.

Sahi in New York!

We’re sure we have some readers returning to or visiting New York City this month, in which case don’t miss the opportunity to catch madrileño artist Sahi’s participation in the exhibition Interpretive Realms at the Agora Gallery in the city’s art-packed Chelsea district. Sahi is one of 13 artists taking part in this show, which focuses on their differing interpretations of reality.

Stylistically, Sahi has been compared to Francis Bacon, his pieces featuring figurative composition mixed with drips, distortions and powerful expressionist brushstrokes. Agora Gallery, 530 West 25th Street, New York. Tel: (212) 226 4151.

Tues-Sat, 11am-6pm. Free entrance. Until 21 Aug. See www.agora-gallery.com

Titirilandia 2012 Set in the oasis of the Retiro, this puppet theatre festival is a Madrid summer classic, and a must-do for children living in or just visiting the capital. Companies from five different continents take part in this summer-long event, and in August performances include Olé, olé, a show based on Andalucian folklore, Brothers’ Grimm classic Los músicos de Bremen, and Pinguin, the story of a family of penguins. With a consistently packed open-air theatre, this is not to be missed if you have little ones. And if you don’t have little ones of your own, take someone else’s! (Ideally with their parents’ permission—Editor). Teatro de Títeres de El Retiro, Avenida de México, s/n, Parque de El Retiro. Closest entrance: Puerta de la Independencia, at Puerta de Alcalá. (Metro: Retiro). See www.titirilandia.es/festival-titirilandia-2012/

Veranos de la Villa Plenty of time remains to enjoy Veranos de la Villa, with activities taking place throughout August. The first Madrid Fringe Festival (until 11 Aug) will include performances of theatre, circus, performance art, poetry and music at the Centro Cultural Conde Duque. Madrid now joins other cities where Fringe Festivals are held, such as Edinburgh, New York, Dublin, Singapore and Melbourne. At the open-air events in the Jardines de Sabatini

Sleeping Beauty on Ice audiences will be able to enjoy Carmen Cortés (3 Aug), La verbena de la Paloma (7-15 Aug), Anfitrión, by Plautus, directed

by Juan Carlos Pérez de la Fuente (17-19 Aug), and Sleeping Beauty on Ice by the Imperial Ice Stars (21 Aug-2 Sept).

Veranos de la Villa 2012. Fringe: Centro Cultural Conde Duque, C/Conde Duque, 11 (Metro: Noviciado/Plaza de España). Open-air: Jardines de Sabatini, C/de Bailén (Metro: Ópera/Plaza de España) See www.esmadrid.com/en/veranos-villa-festival

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Get ready for Spring/Summer 2013 with this year’s second fashion week. Featuring the cream of the Madrid fashion world, including Agatha Ruiz de la Prada, Roberto Verino and Sara Coleman, the show everyone awaits with baited breath is El Ego,

4 AUGUST 2012

Hopper Cinema Season To correspond with the Hopper exhibition at the Museo ThyssenBornemisza, a season of films continues throughout August to illustrate the richness and complexity of the relationship between cinema and painting.

The movies share similar themes or styles with Hopper’s work, and all are shown in original version.

Screenings include David Mamet’s House Lynch’s Mulholland Drive of Games (3 Aug), David Lynch’s Mulholland Drive (17 Aug) and Sam Mendes’ Road to Perdition (18 Aug). And there’s no charge— free entry until the cinema is full. Hopper Ciclo de Cine, Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, Paseo del Prado, 8 (Metro: Banco de España). Fri & Sat, 8.30pm. See www.museothyssen.org/thyssen/home

Fiesta Virgen de la Paloma, La Latina One of the most traditional and lively of Madrid’s many fiestas, the countless activities, including music, dance, theatre and entertainment for children, are held mainly in Plaza de las Vistillas, Plaza de la Paja, Calle de Toledo and the surrounding streets of La Latina. The feast of the Virgen de la Paloma, the barrio´s patron saint, is celebrated on 15 August, which is also a holiday, although the festivities last several days around that date. Expect locals in traditional attire offering flowers to the Virgin, and of course the religious procession in her honour.

Fiesta Virgen de la Paloma, La Latina (Metro: La Latina).

Wed, 15 Aug. See www.fiestas-de-madrid.com

Tips from the Tower Helpful monthly advice from the British Consulate office in Pº de la Castellana’s Torre Espacio Home Sweet Home—What to do if the UK beckons Recent economic doom and gloom may have taken the shine off life in Madrid for many expat residents and for some the hike in VAT to 21% may be just the tipping point in deciding that the time has come to head home to the UK. Lots of new arrivals look to the British Consulate for advice on how to settle in Spain, but few are aware that the Consulate also gives advice on how to plan a return home equally as well as the move abroad. A quick look at the UKinSpain website can help you prepare well and potentially save both time and hassle in the long-term.

One important task is to de-register with the Spanish authorities. This may help you show proof in the UK that you are no longer resident in Spain. If you plan to resume working in the UK, it’s an idea to get hold of your criminal record certificate for the period of residence in Spain before you leave in case this is required by a future employer. You may also want to obtain a record of the time spent working in Spain (known as a vida laboral) as this can be used to count towards your UK state pension. Lastly, you should be able to export unemployment benefit to the UK for three months—contact the Spanish Employment Service (SEPE) or Jobcentre Plus in the UK for further details. For more information and links to other useful sites, visit http://ukinspain.fco.gov.uk/en/help-for-britishnationals/living-in-spain/returning-to-uk/

MADRID IN ENGLISH

Top ten reasons not to head to the coast world

mad

It’s August, and half of the population of Madrid will pack their bags and rush to the beach for the holidays. But is it really such a good idea? Jeff Wiseman suggests ten reasons why sand, sea and sunshine could be a big mistake: 1

No matter where you’re travelling to in Spain, the traffic jam will take up 75% of the total distance.

2

For every person who looks good in a swimsuit, there are a dozen who don’t.

The ones who don’t will inevitably sit at the tables surrounding you in the beach restaurant.

3

You’ll still be removing sand from various bodily cracks and crevices until next March.

4

You’ll meet complete strangers who will become “friends”. You will thoughtlessly tell them to visit you if they’re in Madrid anytime, and shockingly they’ll turn up on your doorstep within three weeks.

5

An irritating kid, invariably called Pablo, will stay in your hotel and will take great pleasure in constantly flicking ice cream at you as you lay on your sunbed.

6

Without fail, at some point in your stay, a small but important part of your anatomy will get trapped in a deck chair.

7

During a game of beach volleyball with other hotel guests, you’ll completely misjudge the flight of the ball, smack a fellow team member under the chin with both hands, and put him or her in hospital. The looks that his or her family cast at you for the rest of your stay will be mortifying.

8

You may meet your boss, who will be wearing the most inappropriate swimsuit imaginable. The image will haunt you for the rest of your working life.

9

You’ll not realise that you’ve mistaken moisturiser for factor 30 sun cream until it’s too late. Your skin will turn bright red and for at least one week you’ll scream “Don’t touch me!” at anyone who comes within five metres of your body.

10

Beware of serious injury

Photo (CC) flickr: idlefor-

Despite your best efforts, you will fall asleep in the sunshine whilst wearing your sunglasses, and have to keep them on until Christmas, when your face finally loses its embarrassing panda design.

Curiosity Shop

■ BY CAMINO MARTÍNEZ EL JARDIN DEL CONVENTO

The only shop in the heart of the city that’s dedicated to selling typical Spanish sweets and desserts handmade in convents and monasteries all over the country This shop was inaugurated in the city centre two and a half years ago, just at the side of the famous Plaza de la Villa, halfway between the Almudena Cathedral and Plaza Mayor. Located in the old monastery of Corpus Christi, created in 1604 and considered of significant cultural interest, this original shop is one of the very few establishments in the capital, and the only one in the city centre, that specialises in selling typical sweets and desserts made by nuns and monks in more than 40 different convents and monasteries all over the country. Those locations include, for example, Santa Clara in Siruela (Badajoz), Santa María de la Huerta (Soria), Santa Paula (Sevilla) and Las Jerónimas (León). In this beautiful and cosy place, with faint light, provincial decor, antique lamps and 19th century furniture, people can buy a wide range of products, like shortbread, biscuits, ring-shaped pastries, marzipan, caramel-coated almonds, truffles and chocolates, cakes, muffins, jellies (rose, orange blossom and jasmine) or lots of delicious jams!

The jams extend to more than 20 different flavours: apple with mint, caramel, kiwi, or melon, or pear with cinnamon and cardamom, just to whet your appetite. Trust us, a divine but earthly pleasure!

■ BY CAMINO MARTÍNEZ El Jardín del Convento. C/Cordón, 1, corner of Plaza de la Villa. (Metro: Ópera/La Latina). Tel: 91 541 22 99. Tues-Sun, 11am-3pm, 5-9pm. See www.eljardindelconvento.net.

MADRID IN ENGLISH

Fairy Tales

By Jerome Apolda

The Night Before It’s been three days since the intervention during which my friends took over my life and decided to get me laid against my will. Pride is in full swing.

There isn’t a single corner of the city left to the breeders; I wonder where they’ve gone.

My living room has become the HQ of operations. D is on the balcony, always on the verge of inviting half of the street up; F is simultaneously on five different gay chats, gathering the troops as he calls it; M is dancing to Whitney; and A is shagging in the bathroom—they seem to have moved in.

That horrible device they’ve lent me keeps buzzing with messages from random blokes asking me if I’m up for it. I tried switching it off but the damn thing hates me. Every time the phone beeps, one of my friends grabs it and gives the bloke my address. My flat has become a train station.

Luckily though, when the random shag gets here, he is welcomed in by one of my friends and though he is meant for me, they are the ones enjoying him. I’ve somehow survived the last three days.

But I know that tonight… Oh, God! I don’t even want to think about it.

F’s chosen what I am to wear: yellow short shorts and a navy wife-beater. I’m to leave my glasses at home. D grabs me by the waist and ushers me downstairs. Once I hear my door being locked, I know I won’t be coming back in one piece.

The crowd is so intricately webbed in a mass of sweaty flesh that it takes us half an hour to cross Gran Vía. There is an old man throwing buckets of water on the crowd. There are hands wandering every which way. My ass gets grabbed, so does my chest, my arms, even my knees. I feel like I’m fighting off a giant human centipede whose only purpose is to mate with me. M hands me a drink; I’m thankful, I know I need it. We reach a quieter spot to watch the parade. That’s when M reveals the flag I’m to sway. A huge flag tied to a threefoot tall pole. They tell me it will attract attention.

And the Union Jack does just that. Every single Brit in sight wants to have his picture taken with it, and with it, there is me. F decides that to get a picture they’ll have to snog me. Forty two pictures later, my lips hurt. I drink to give myself strength.

D pats me on the back. They’re proud of me!

We reach Chueca. I’m hoping that the worst is behind me; it isn’t. I’m dying for a cup of tea and some quiet time with a good book. I can’t stand this overwhelming sea of naked flesh, this constant rubbing and grabbing, the multitude of tongues down my throat. It’s for my own good, they tell me—something to remember in my old age. At this pace, I’m not sure I’m going to reach old age.

M chooses one. D chooses one. F chooses one.

A chooses one. And now I’m surrounded by four blokes handpicked for me. They’re hot, I’ll give them that. One of them even seems to have a twinkling of intelligence in his eyes.

Sex is inevitable…

To be concluded next month in “…The Morning After” Love FAIRY TALES? Missed an issue? Go to www.jerome-apolda.com. Or join me on facebook.

AUGUST 2012

5

A night on the tiles Fancy a bar crawl that makes you feel above everyone else?

Polly Ackroyd hits the high life at four of Madrid’s rooftop terraces

a

s the city’s bright blue sky slowly fades, and, if you’re fortunate, a cool breeze diminishes the temperature, how best to escape the noise and traffic of the street?

Let your eyes reach for the skies, and head not to the hills, but to the roofs.

Casa de Granada The night begins in Casa de Granada (C/Doctor Cortezo, 17, Metro: Tirso de Molina). Looking at the doorway at street level, it seems unlikely there is a rooftop option, but upon taking the elevator to the 6th floor one is greeted with an authentic, unpretentious neighbourhood bar that just happens to be on the top of a building. After a short wait, we are given a table on the terrace which, while fairly small and narrow, offers spectacular views over the tiled roofs of Tirso de Molina and Lavapiés. We line our stomachs in preparation for our evening of terrace-hopping with some generous and well-priced servings of croquetas, bravas and tortilla de patata.

People watching: Good—foreigners and locals, old and young.

Romance: Not ideal—due to the proximity of the tables everyone else on the terrace would be able to hear the sweet nothings you whisper to your date.

Hotel ME Reina Victoria After Casa de Granada we meander up Calle Doctor Cortezo to Plaza Benavente, turn right and after a few hundred metres are in Plaza Santa Ana, the location of the next stop on our crawl: the Hotel ME Reina Victoria. This Madrid landmark houses an iconic rooftop terrace, cunningly named The Roof. After a short wait to get in, a sleek elevator whisks us to the 7th floor where we purchase some gin and tonics at the higher end of the price scale, then sit back and enjoy the comfy couches, low lighting and a projection of the latest Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show on the hotel’s famous corner tower. After managing to drag the male contingent of our party away from that, we check out the other views on offer, which are spectacular. Looking out beyond Plaza Santa Ana and the rooftops of central Madrid you can see the iconic buildings of Gran Vía and the green expanse of Retiro in the distance.

People watching: Very good—before the light gets too dim, keep an eye out for any celebs that may have strayed from the VIP bar.

Romance: Excellent—the low lighting creates an ambience of intimacy and there are plenty of couches to get comfy and cosy with your date.

Hotel Ada Palace Heading back down to Plaza Santa Ana, we manage to avoid getting dragged by ‘public relations’ people into one of the hundreds of bars in that zone, and make our way north on foot to the junction of Calle Alcalá with Gran Vía, to the Hotel Ada Palace (Gran Vía, 2. Metro: Banco de España). This time there is no wait, and another sleek elevator takes us to the terrace, where more gin and tonics are purchased. The terrace has a similar vibe to the Hotel ME: dim lighting, white couches where you can nestle in for the evening, similarly priced drinks, and of course amazing views of central Madrid’s splendid buildings. There are fewer people which seem to give it a touch of exclusivity.

People watching: Good—the crowd is slightly less boisterous but there are still lots of glamorous people to see.

Romance: Again, excellent—couches and subdued lighting, plus the romance of seeing Gran Vía from above.

Hotel ME Reina Victoria

Mercado San Antón

Mercado San Antón Strolling out of the Ada Palace towards Chueca, the final stop is the trendy Mercado San Antón (C/Augusto Figueroa, 24, Metro: Chueca). The market stalls have closed by the time we arrive but the terrace bar stays open until the small hours. This terrace is by far the hippest and hipsterest: think guys in skinny jeans and people wearing thick-rimmed and vintage-looking glasses. After fighting our way to the bar and finally getting our delicious mojitos we share a miniscule table with a few other groups. It is generally advised that if you want a seat on this very ‘cool’ terrace you should arrive at around 1pm, not 1am! The crowd creates a great atmosphere, and the views over the roofs, and into the windows, of one of Madrid’s most beloved barrios are worth having to elbow a few hipsters to get your drink.

People watching: Excellent—lots of interesting fashion choices among the set that frequent this spot.

Romance: Poor—due to the noise produced by the large number of people, you may find yourself having to yell at your date which may make it difficult to hit that romantic note.

Mercado San Antón

Elevating troubles Almost every building in Madrid has an elevator or two, but spending a few minutes in one with a complete stranger can make or break your day. Jeff Wiseman suggests a few tips to avoid embarrassing social interaction

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Floor 3

Floor 1

OK, so you’ve smiled at your lift companion, and suddenly you’ve put yourself in very dangerous territory.

You’re thinking “Please don’t start a conversation”, while your companion is equally stressed, thinking “Well, that was a pleasant smile, maybe I should say something.” Even though you’re looking at your shoes again, suddenly you hear the two words that send a shudder down every lift-passenger’s spine: “Good morning!” Relax; take it easy. Just nod. Don’t panic, and most of all, don’t respond. Don’t. Don’t!

ou know the sequence. You’ve stepped alone into a lift, and are about to enjoy a stress-free solo journey. The doors are closing, but a last-minute passenger leaps through the gap. In your dreams, it might be Tom Cruise or Cameron Diaz. But, of course, reality is never like that. Reality bites.

The last-minute intrusion in real life is often someone who looks like an extra from a Lord of the Rings battle scene, or even worse, a sweaty businessman.

Spending time in a confined space with a stranger can be intimidating, but there are certain “don’ts” that at least make the situation bearable. Our worst case scenario illustrates the problems, floor by floor: Firstly, never make eye contact. With a stranger in a lift, remember that your feet have never been more important, and your gaze should be focused on them throughout. However, this is easier said than done. We have an innate human curiosity.

What if the person who leapt through the closing doors is actually the man or woman you’ve been waiting for all your life? Don’t even think about it.

Please don’t glance. Don’t look up. Don’t!

Floor 2 OK, so now you’ve made eye contact, and you’re cursing yourself. The person less than half a metre away isn’t dream-like. In fact, they look as though they’ve dressed in the dark, you’re pretty sure they’re wearing a wig, and they’re sweating profusely. Have they been rushing or do they have a

6 AUGUST 2012

tropical disease? There’s no need to worry—if they have a disease, you’ll have already contracted it.

It’s the eye contact that’s a bigger concern, because now the temptation is to smile politely, just to ease the tension. Whatever happens, don’t do this. Don’t politely smile! Don’t, don’t!

Floor 4 OK, you’ve responded by saying “Good morning” too. Big mistake. Now there’s a conversation on the cards. There are some terrifying possibilities here from your fellow passenger (“On Sundays I like chasing squirrels in the Retiro” or “Isn’t it funny how it gets dark every night”), but something that can elicit a reply is most likely. You pray that the comment doesn’t end with a question tag, so that you can just nod and terminate the exchange. For a brief moment there’s hope, as you hear “It’s quite hot today...” but then the hope is shattered by the addition of “... isn’t it?” Keep things simple.

A “yes” will suffice. Don’t try to be funny, and don’t let your nerves get the better of you. We repeat, don’t try to be funny. Don’t. Please don’t!

And sometimes you can meet more than one person

Floor 5 OK, you could have just said “yes”, but with nerves jangling and your mind malfunctioning, you add “er.. especially if you’re a sheep with a woolly coat.” Why did you say that? It was completely unnecessary, and now your face is crimson and you’re giggling like an idiot. You look desperately at the floor indicator, which seems to be moving slower than a Galapagos turtle. In seeking a distraction, don’t try to find your iPhone, mobile or Blackberry. In this high-stress predicament, you won’t remember which pocket you put it in. Don’t try to find it. Don’t, don’t, don’t!

Floor 6 OK, so you’ve tried to find it. Bad move; because it slowly dawns on you that, in your desperate search of your jeans’ pockets, it actually looked as though you were fondling yourself. Try to fight back the tears as you wonder what sort of signal

Photo (CC) flickr: SanFranAnnie

you’ve been giving your lift companion, and how they might have interpreted it. There’s only one floor to go. Stand in front of the doors so that you can escape this social torture.

Floor 7 Of course, in your distress you fail to notice that the lift has doors that can open to the left or right side, and sure enough it’s the doors behind you that slide apart. Your lift companion exits like a greyhound from a trap, leaving you staring at two grey metal panels. As you try to pull yourself together, a passenger leaps in, and you’re on your way back down. See floor one.

If all of these stresses and pitfalls are too much to cope with, then we can recommend the “English Method” of lift travel: if there is the remotest possibility of another passenger, take the stairs. Failing that, we hope that the neon numbers in your escapades pass as quickly as possible.

MADRID IN ENGLISH

Just the ticket Need to entertain your friends when they visit? Or just need a nice relaxing trip yourself? Lottie Godwin finds that Madrid’s public buses can provide a great sightseeing experience

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ummer is here, so are your visitors, and they’re demanding that you show them the sights of the city. Great, except madrileño that you are, you’ve seen and done them all before.

The August heat makes life difficult, plus Uncle Bernard hates walking, best friend Nigel is not exactly last of the big spenders, whilst your cousin Mabel and her daughter Posh insist on seeing everything. So how do you tour Madrid without getting overheated, tired and resentful of the city’s infamous lack of the sea?

Cue: the bashful but beautiful Madrid public transport pageant, starring buses C2, 3, 149 and 27. A perfect air-conditioned tour of the city’s most attractive spots, ideal for guests, but also an excellent trip for new expats or long-time city dwellers who want Madrid to pass them by for a couple of hours.

Leg

1

city gates—the Puerta de San Vicente is the first, albeit a 1990s replica, and then Puerta de Toledo, an original gate from the 1800s. These enormous arches were used as entrances to the old walled city of Madrid. Alight at Puerta de Toledo for photo opportunities, and refreshment at the local bars.

Leg

2

Bus: 3 Route: Puerta de Toledo—Calle Hortaleza (approx 25 mins)

Bus: C2 Route: Gta de Embajadores—Pta de Toledo (approx 60 mins)

Start on the C2 bus, designated for “Cuatro Caminos” from the Glorieta de Embajadores. A word to the wise here: sit on the left, the driver’s side, and you see much more. Within two minutes, you can’t fail to notice the striking metal red façade of the Reina Sofia, a modern addition to the 18th century hospital-turnedmuseum. Almost immediately you then catch the impressive redbrick railway station of Atocha on your right, and as the bus crosses the large traffic junction, to the left see if you can spot the crazy winged horses on the roof of the Ministry of Agriculture.

The route takes you around the back of the Retiro and through a picturesque, more residential area of the city, allowing you to relax, and watch the people and shops for 30 minutes or more. Below the vast array of balconies, just for fun, see if you can identify these shops along the tree-lined boulevards: colchonería, tapicería, ferretería and mantequería. (For your visitors, that’s a mattress shop, upholsterers, hardware shop and a dairy product store.)

Eventually crossing Paseo de la Castellana, the bus heads out of the centre until returning via Calle Princesa, a sloping street with its glitzy string of shops, leading to the famous fountains of Plaza de España. To the left, there’s a tempting glimpse up Gran Vía, after which you swing round the Plaza, downhill, and into Principe Pio, from where you see the back of the Royal Palace and its gardens on the left, and on the right the new River Manzanares development. There are two

MADRID IN ENGLISH

Leg

4

Taking bus 3 from Puerta de Toledo, the most breathtaking sight along this leg is undoubtedly las vistillas—the viewpoints. Within two minutes, to your left, your gaze sweeps across the cityscape to the mountain range beyond. It feels epic, and your trusty steed (well, bus) has yet more to offer.

As the bus turns right into Calle Mayor, on the left you can briefly catch the front of the Royal Palace, and the Almudena cathedral. Calle Mayor leads to the Puerta del Sol, the white and cream balconied plaza, famous for the Madrid bear figure, the equestrian statue of Carlos III, and for being the city’s New Year celebration point. You glide through leisurely in your air-conditioned carriage, without getting embroiled in the crowds.

Exiting Sol, the route winds a little, before entering the majestic Gran Vía. It’s only a brief visit to the street, but be sure to glimpse the Schweppes tower, famous for its convex neon sign, as the road slopes down to Callao.

However, the bus soon turns into the much smaller Calle Hortaleza, on the lip of Chueca, known for its many carnival- and gay-themed shops. Get off at the second stop in this street, immediately after an exotic underwear shop on the left, Lencería Ana Millán—we insist on choosing the best location points to identify. Here there’s a very short stretch on foot. Cross the road, backtrack a little, and turn into Calle Hernán Cortés. You come to Calle Fuencarral. Turn right, and at the entrance to Tribunal Metro station, you find the stop for route 149.

Leg

3

Bus: 149 Route: Tribunal—Santiago Bernabéu (approx 12 mins)

A necessary link, going along Calle Fuencarral, this route reaches the impressive fountains of Plaza de Bilbao. It then takes you to the Santiago Bernabéu football stadium, where you alight for photo opportunities.

Bus: 27 Route: Santiago Bernabéu—Embajadores (approx 20 mins)

The final leg of the trip goes along the elegant Paseo de la Castellana. After exclusive hotels and glass office blocks, you reach Plaza de Colón (Columbus), distinguished by the enormous Spanish flag flapping over its centre. There’s also a statue of Cristóbal Colón, perched on a column. From there, the bus heads onwards to the Plaza de Cibeles, famous for its fountain with a chariot drawn by lions, and known as the celebration point for Real Madrid victories. To the left is a striking white-icing cake of a building, Palacio de Cibeles, currently functioning as the town hall.

A few minutes after Cibeles, on the right, is the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, followed by another centreisland statue: Plaza de Neptuno, which provides the celebration ground for Atlético fans. Both Cibeles and Neptuno were designed by Ventura Rodríguez, and the water jets and fountains around the horses of Neptuno’s chariot offer a hypnotic display. Almost immediately on the left, you can make out the Prado Museum through the leaves of the avenue’s trees, followed by the Botanical Gardens, and then on the right is the Caixa Forum, with its astonishing vertical garden.

At this point you are back to Atocha. To terminate proceedings, the bus returns to Embajadores, concluding, laydeeezungennulmen, the tour. The estimated time is about two and a half hours. By the way, did we mention about mingling with true madrileños in their natural habitat? On any bus, expect to be roughed about a bit by an orange-rinsed old lady, or queuejumped by an octogenarian. It’s all part of the fun.

AUGUST 2012

7

Inside the Tortilla Paul Read See www.insidethetortilla.com

Nick Funnell selects the best movies to see this month Prometheus Thirty-three years on, Ridley Scott returns for this prequel to the Alien series he kickstarted. Noomi Rapace, Guy Pearce, Idris Elba, Charlize Theron and the excellent Michael Fassbender play a crew of intergalactic explorers combing the universe for the origins of humankind after an astounding discovery is made on Earth. 3 Aug Rock of Ages (La Era de Rock) Tom Cruise struts his stuff as rock god Stacee Jaxx in this adaptation of the 80s-set Broadway musical about a country girl (Julianne Hough) and LA boy (Diego Boneta) pursuing their music dreams to a Def Leppard, Bon Jovi and Journey soundtrack. The big-name cast includes Paul Giamatti, Russell Brand, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Alec Baldwin, Mary J Blige, Bryan Cranston and Malin Akerman. 10 Aug Brave (Indomable) A kind of baby Braveheart, the latest animation from Pixar is set in the mystical Scottish Highlands where a feisty, archery-loving princess (voiced by Kelly Macdonald) unleashes chaos and curses after she defies ancient tradition. The voice cast features Billy Connolly, Emma Thompson, Robbie Coltrane, Craig Ferguson and Kevin McKidd. 10 Aug The Pirates! In an Adventure with Scientists (¡Piratas!) The fourth stop-motion feature by Aardman Animation, the creators of Wallace and Gromit, follows an underachieving, “luxuriantly bearded” Pirate Captain (voiced by Hugh Grant) whose bid for the coveted Pirate of the Year award gets him mixed up with Charles Darwin (David Tennant) and Queen Victoria (Imelda Staunton). With the voices of Martin Freeman, Salma Hayek, Jeremy Piven and Brian Blessed. 17 Aug The Bourne Legacy (El Legado de Bourne) The Bourne saga begins again with Jeremy Renner’s superagent Aaron Cross taking over from Matt Damon’s JB and series screenwriter Tony Gilroy (Michael Clayton) behind the camera. Rachel Weisz, Edward Norton, Joan Allen and Albert Finney are among those in front of it. 17 Aug

The Hundred-Year-Old Man Who Climbed Out of the Window and Disappeared Jonas Jonasson Hesperus Press Ltd Allan Karlsson, on a whim, decides to escape his 100th birthday party at his residential home, and embarks on an adventure which involves a suitcase of stolen money, encounters with dangerous gang members, a group of new friends and a domesticated elephant.

Jonas Jonasson’s European publishing sensation, skillfully translated from Swedish, is a picaresque, raucously funny adventure story, both intelligent and gripping, which is sure to be as popular in the English-speaking world as it is in its native Sweden.

Running alongside the present day narrative is the protagonist’s back-story. Our passive and accidental anti-hero has found himself in all manner of scrapes—from the Spanish Civil War to communist China, encountering Harry Truman, Mao Tse-tung and Lenin along the way—and if the plot is to be believed, was instrumental in the invention of the Atom bomb.

Mixing actual history with historical fancy, the book manages to subtly pass comment on many of the 20th century’s most radical political and social ideologies via the mouth of our disinterested, vodka-drinking centenarian. Some reviewers have been quick to draw comparisons with Forrest Gump, and there are touches of Robert Zemeckis’s hit film in Jonasson’s tale. But it’s an original too, with moments of simple yet profound wisdom. An almost fantastical tale that hurtles unashamedly into the implausible, but never stops long enough for the suspension of disbelief to fall. ■ LAURA STEPHENS

With more than 20 years’ experience of living and working across the varied regions of Spain, author Paul Read knows a thing or two about tortilla.

Inside the Tortilla, however, is more than just a search for the perfect Spanish omelette, it is a search for authenticity in Spain in the face of an increasing plethora of microwaveable tapas and soulless beach resorts.

Read, accompanied by his faithful dog, Hound, turns his back on the Mediterranean coast and heads into the heart of Andalusia, and into the heart of the tortilla, in search of disappearing recipes from a disappearing life.

He eventually finds a village which he feels he can call home and sets about getting a loan in order to buy a rundown house in the old quarter. He is doubly successful in this quest; he gets the loan—and his first recipe from the Bank Manager for Grannie’s Pipirrana Salad, proving that the love of good cuisine really does unite people from all walks of life. The reader is then taken on a journey into the intricacies and eccentricities of village life in Andalusia; anyone who has spent any time living in Spain will be familiar with the problems he faces, and even those who haven’t will find his exchanges with locals and ensuing anecdotes amusing. As Read goes about setting up his new life, his search for authenticity, and authentic recipes, is richly rewarded, and he discovers more than a few secrets along the way. Regardless of whether you like your tortilla runny or well-done, with onions or without, Inside the Tortilla is an interesting, historically informative and enjoyable read for those of us fond of all things Spanish.

■ POLLY ACKROYD

music

for the record Russell Parton gets out his olives and tells us what we should, or shouldn’t, be listening to

Las Migas Nosotras Somos Chesapik In the male-dominated world of flamenco, all-female groups like Las Migas are still a rarity—even in Catalonia’s experimental flamenco scene. But what was more striking about this Barcelona-based four piece when they released their 2010 debut, Reinas de Matute, was their ability to blend styles—jazz, pop and fado—and their quirky humour.

Nosotras Somos is a different proposition though, with more traditional flamenco singer Alba Carmona taking over singing duties from Silvia Pérez Cruz, who is now working on solo projects (see below). The album divides roughly into two halves, the first featuring songs with more obvious popular appeal, the second a mite more experimental. “Con Toda Palabra” is a curious opener, a cross between a lover’s surrender and lament with pizzicato violin a nimble counterpoint to the hushed vocal. But Carmona soon unleashes the full force of her voice, matched on “Dime que Si” by a thumping guitar response as she implores her lover to “say yes”. In an album short of original compositions, it’s left to the playing and arrangements to provide originality, which they duly deliver. “Zambra” starts with a quivering violin sound which modulates into a single figure plucked repeatedly between pregnant silences, while the group’s version of Joan Manuel Serrat’s “La Lluna”, sung in Catalan, makes the most of the composer’s lingering and plaintive melody by contrasting a low and rattling guitar sound with melancholic and sustained notes on the violin.

Perhaps it lacks the raw inspiration of their debut disc, but Nosotras Somos is still a worthy sequel to that album, a studious and considered work that should enhance the group’s reputation among the cream of modern flamenco artists.

Silvia Pérez Cruz 11 de novembre Universal Flamenco, they say, is “the bread”, but after leaving her flamenco group, Las Migas, Catalan singer-songwriter Silvia Pérez Cruz is no longer on a strict flamenco diet, and so hops freely between genres, as evidenced on her debut, 11 de novembre, released only weeks before her ex-band’s latest offering. Jazz, folk, flamenco and cantautor styles all feature on this pared back, acoustic affair, in which Cruz’s vocals shine. The lyrics are sung in Spanish, Catalan, Gallego and Portuguese, but the singer’s immaculate phrasing and ability to convey deep emotion almost renders this unimportant. However, lyrics like those to “Iglesia” cut deep: ‘Un mundo feliz ... baños en el mar ... sueños de cristal’, sung wistfully over an intense, circular guitar pattern. It’s in the same song, though, that a tendency towards whimsy rears its head. After being lulled into a melancholic, mysterious state of mind, from nowhere the music transforms into Moon River—damaging the credibility of an otherwise beautiful song. The throwaway, jazzy improvisation in “Días de paso” is another case in point. But perhaps promising much and delivering more than occasionally is how a debut album should be. And there’s no shortage of beautiful and interesting songs here: the easy melody of “Pare Meu” is like a succession of hopes and sighs, and the percussive, chanting vibe of “O Meu Amor e Gloria” gives just the right contrast from those songs, like “Memoria de Pez”, that flow like a romantic Gondola ride.

An affecting listen from an exciting talent.

8 AUGUST 2012

concerts ■ BY FAYE HARRISON

Niskerone Thurs, 9 Aug, Sala Marco Aldany, C/Princesa, 1 (Metro: Plaza de España). www.salarena.com/salamarcoaldany.html Hailing from the dusty streets of Mitchell’s Plain in Cape Town, Niskerone’s lively and original style of mixing has entertained crowds at festivals and on dance floors all over the globe. Niskerone, who to his oldest friends goes by the name of Mark Stevens, came into the limelight in 2006 after identifying a need in Cape Town for a Drum & Bass night that accommodated the lighter side of the scene with which this style of music is usually associated.

The brand night, It Came From The Jungle, has been pleasing hundreds of Drum & Bass and Jungle lovers each week ever since. It also secured him festival slots alongside the cream of this genre’s crop such as Pendulum, Busta Rhymes, DJ Fresh, and many more. Aside from playing at countless festivals, including Spain’s popular Monegros Desert, Niskerone has constructed a dynamic vocal D&B act teaming up with Natalia Segerman, a talented, young, emerging Cape Town singer/songwriter.

The Naked Heroes

The Hard-Ons

Wed, 29 Aug, Sala Sirocco, C/San Dimas, 3 (Metro: Noviciado). Tel: 606 421 750. www.siroco.es

Fri, 31 Aug, Gruta 77, C/Cuclillo, 6 (Metro: Oporto). Tel: 91 471 23 70. www.gruta77.com

The Naked Heroes’ music has been described as ‘hard, southern-styled rock played in a lo-fi, garage-punk mode’— quite impressive for a sound produced by happily married couple George Michael Jackson (guitar and vocals) and Merica Lee (drums). Non-conformers to the abstract rock that many of today’s bands attempt to make, the Naked Heroes just bash out memorable songs in an effortless imitation of classic rock. Their passion for the rawness of rock ’n’ roll means that their sound is big. They manage to grasp the perfect combination of 70s sleaze and countrified rock and bottle it up for fans to enjoy. The duo released their debut album, 99 Diamond, in 2009 and made it available as a free download on their website. Check out the anthemic title track and go and experience this veteran rock session.

One of Australia’s most popular, longlasting and rebellious punk bands, the Hard-Ons got together in 1981 and consisted of high school pals Peter Black, Brendan Creighton and Keish de Silva. Creighton was soon replaced by Ray Ahn and the band issued their debut album, Surfin’ On My Face, followed by a number of releases that made big waves in the independent Australian charts. The band broke up in 1993, soon after the release of their Too Far Gone album, and reunited in 1997 having broadened their sound with dashes of power pop, psychedelic rock and thrashy metal. The band has changed its main lineup on two occasions since, supported the Ramones and gained fans worldwide, as well as selling a huge amount of records.

Critical success was affirmed when they recorded a cover of AC/DC’s classic “Let There Be Rock” which is definitely worth checking out. This is sure to be a jerky way to end the month.

MADRID IN ENGLISH

Nightlife Spotlight

Chase & Status DJ Set@Sala Marco Aldany

■ BY RICHARD LEWINGTON

C/Princesa, 1 (Metro: Plaza de España), Wed, 8 Aug, from 12am.

Tickets from €15.

See www.zombie studio.es

Pharrell Williams of N*E*R*D hails them as “The most exciting producers in the UK today” and Rihanna considers them “the backbone” of her record “Rated R”, but this isn’t enough to quench the musical thirst of Chase & Status aka Will Kennard and Saul Milton as multi award-winning, platinum record selling producers, writers and musicians in their own right. The duo, who count Jay Z and Snoop Dogg as fans, as well as drum and bass’s finest Andy C, Hype and Pendulum, enjoy heavy rotation in the hands of dub-step royalty such as N-Type and Skream, and have their releases enthusiastically supported by Radio 1 tastemakers Annie Mac and Zane Lowe. Their debut in Madrid has been a long time coming, but the duo will finally be gracing the decks this month at the Sala Marco Aldany alongside Madrid’s very own Zombie Kids with their techy wobble beats and energetic dub house sounds.

11 Aug: Ara Malikian & Fdo. Egozcue Qt 13-18 Aug: Lou Marini & Red House 20 Aug: Javier Paxariño Trío

BY SIR BERNARD WINTERBOTTOM BA 21 Aug: Jayme Marques Trío 22 Aug: Jerry González Band Rock / Pop 23 Aug: Jerry González Band 24 Aug: Jerry González Band 25 Aug: Jerry González Band BOGUI JAZZ, C/Barquillo, 29 (Metro: 27 Aug: Natalia Dicenta & José Manuel Villacañas Chueca). Tel: 91 521 15 68.

28 Aug: Natalia Dicenta & José Manuel www.boguijazz.com.

Villacañas 2 Aug: Pablo Gutiérrez & Toño Miguel Dúo 29 Aug: Pedro Iturralde Qt. 3 Aug: Jon Bremen & Ariel Alexander Quartet 30 Aug: Pedro Iturralde Qt. 4 Aug: Albert Sanz, Pablo Martín Caminero 31 Aug: Pedro Iturralde Qt. & Borja Barrueta Trío, “Moog Indigo” 9 Aug: Cristina Mora Y Hugo Fernández Project CONTRA CLUB, C/Bailén, 16 (Metro: 10 Aug: Iván “Melón” Lewis Trío Opera). Tel: 91 523 15 11.

11 Aug: Santiago Cañada & Norman Hogue www.contraclub.es Quintet 23 Aug: Zahara + DJ set de Zahara 14 Aug: Afrodisian Orchestra 24 Aug: Zahara + DJ set de Zahara 16 Aug: Cuban Jazz Quintet “Homenaje A Los Maestros” + Jam Session De Latin Jazz 17 Aug: Ariel Brínguez & Universal Art SALA GALILEO GALILEI, C/de Galileo, Experience Feat. Kumar 100 (Metro: Islas Filipinas/Canal). Tel: 18 Aug: Pepe Rivero Quinteto 91 534 75 57/58.

23 Aug: Alex Caporuscio www.salagalileogalilei.com 24 Aug: Kike Jambalaya 1 Aug: Soniquete Del Foro con Chaleco y ‘El 25 Aug: Santiago Campillo & The Electric Piculabe’ Band 2 Aug: Ballet Jammu y Fatou Guewel 30 Aug: Bob Sands Big Band 3 Aug: Antílopez 31 Aug: Freedom 4 Aug: Alaín Perez SALA CLAMORES, C/Albuquerque, 14 5 Aug: Andrés Lewin (Metro: Bilbao). Tel: 91 445 79 38. 7 Aug: Tiza 8 Aug: Lou Marini + Freedom www.salaclamores.com 9 Aug: Beat Beat Yeah 1 Aug: Gene Taylor & Red House 10 Aug: Joel MB 2 Aug: Gene Taylor & Red House 11 Aug: Paco Bello 3 Aug: Gene Taylor & Red House 13 Aug: Fran Fernández 4 Aug: Gene Taylor & Red House 14 Aug: Cronopios 6 Aug: Ara Malikian & Fdo. Egozcue Qt 15 Aug: Marta de la Aldea y Antonio Toledo 7 Aug: Ara Malikian & Fdo. Egozcue Qt 16 Aug: José María Alfaya y Susana Oviedo 8 Aug: Ara Malikian & Fdo. Egozcue Qt 17 Aug: Los Del Perchero 9 Aug: Ara Malikian & Fdo. Egozcue Qt 18 Aug: Rafael Amor 10 Aug: Natalia Dicenta & José Manuel 20 Aug: Nacho Taboada Villacañas 21 Aug: Buena Fe

live listings

online

Russ Yallop

Mondo goes Deep@Mondo Disko C/Arlabán, 7 (Metro: Sol), Thurs, 2 Aug, from 12.30am. Tickets €15. See www.web-mondo.com.

Few producers of recent years have exploded onto the underground house scene like Russ Yallop. While some spend time finding their feet, Russ made a clear statement of intent with “I Can’t Wait”, his debut release, a solid cut of nu-school house that was charted across the board by everyone from Jamie Jones to MANDY, with “Rock Me” on the B-side picked up by DJ Mag and featured on their ‘Best of British’ covermount compilation. 2011 was a huge year for Russ with tracks on Crosstown Rebels’ Rebellion, Hot Creations, No.19, and Foot & Mouth under alias B&B. The success of the releases as well as hugely popular podcasts for Ibiza Voice and Pulse Radio took Russ around the world last year, playing in destinations such as Brazil and Japan, and with festival bookings in Mexico’s BPM and the UK’s Secret Garden. This month, Russ will be flying to Madrid for a night of deep house at Mondo Disko hosted alongside Spain’s own Stefano Sini.

8 Aug: TV Tones 9 Aug: Semilla Negra 10 Aug: Los Franklin 11 Aug: Greenwich Village 14 Aug: Open Mic 15 Aug: TV Tones 16 Aug: Wild Horses 17 Aug: Sticky Fingers [Tribute to The Rolling Stones] 18 Aug: J. Bule Band GRUTA 77, C/Cuclillo, 6 (Metro: 21 Aug: Kike Jambalaya Oporto). Tel: 91 471 23 70.

22 Aug: TV Tones www.gruta77.com 23 Aug: La Banda Del Conductor Del 33 2 Aug: Los Galerna + Milk It 24 Aug: Santiago Campillo And The Electric 3 Aug: Los Alegres Niños Psicopatas + Band Rollercoaster Kills + Los Grilloz + Vred D.J. 25 Aug: Greenwich Village 4 Aug: Ente (Ecuador) + Demon + Percutor + 28 Aug: The Coconuts Anger Soul 29 Aug: TV Tones 6 Aug: New York Ska Jazz Ensemble (USA) 30 Aug: Arrivederci Lola [Tribute to Sabina] 8 Aug: New York Ska Jazz Ensemble (USA) 31 Aug: Los Parpel 10 Aug: Mala Muñeca + The Birras Terror + [Tribute to Deep Purple] 42 11 Aug: Alley Dog Blues + V8 Ford WURLITZER BALLROOM, C/Tres 14 Aug: Rodeo Joe + Incoherentes Cruces, 12 (Metro: Gran Vía). Tel: 91 17 Aug: Madre No Hay Mas Que Una + Bar 522 26 77.

Closer + Leather Heart www.wurlitzerballroom.com 18 Aug: Ballard Of Sam + Roni’s Hot Aces 1 Aug: The Mockers + Pravda 23 Aug: El Sobrino Del Diablo 24 Aug: Dusty Trip + Tributo 77 (Punk Rock 8 Aug: Proudz + Artista invitado 9 Aug: The Yum Yums + Suzy y los Quattro Karaoke) 25 Aug: Senorita Uva (Lady Grape y Amigos) 31 Aug: King Alvarez 30 Aug: Noche De Tributos: La Leñera (Tribute to Leño) Flamenco 31 Aug: Noche De Tributos: Iberia LAS TABLAS, Plaza de España, 9 (Metro: Plaza de Sumergida España). Tel: 91 542 05 20.

(Tribute to Heroes Del Silencio) 22 Aug: Tontxu 23 Aug: Pablo Carbonell 24 Aug: Luis Ramiro 25 Aug: Riki López 27 Aug: Prímital 28 Aug: Sinacio 30 Aug: Carlos Chaouen 31 Aug: Marwan

www.lastablasmadrid.com

CAFÉ HONKY TONK, C/de Covarrubias, CARDAMOMO, C/Echegaray, 15 (Metro: Sol). Tel: 91 24 (Metro: Alonso Martínez). Tel: 91 369 07 57. www.cardamomo.es CASA PATAS, C/ Cañizares, 10 (Metro: Antón 445 68 86. www.clubhonky.com Martín). Tel: 91 369 04 96. www.casapatas.com

1 Aug: TV Tones 2 Aug: Blood And Vision 3 Aug: All Together Band [Tribute to The Beatles] 4 Aug: J. Bule Band 7 Aug: Aventurados

Celtic/folk O’NEILL’S IRISH PUB, Tel: 91 521 20 30 THE IRISH ROVER. Tel: 91 597 48 11 TABERNA ELISA. Tel: 91 369 74 263

inmadrid.com

On the Fiddle in Madrid

LA TABERNA CHICA VINOS, TAPAS, COCKTAILS & LOUNGE MUSIC FABULOUS CAIPIRINHAS

A profile of Madrid-based avant-garde fiddle player, Eoghan Neff Kicking off a series of video profiles on interesting (English-speaking) people in Madrid, this month we join innovative Irish fiddle player Eoghan Neff (exRiverdance) as he plays us a delightful tune he wrote for his daughter, Nora.

Check it out online at inmadrid.com and leave a comment or share it if you like it!

If you know somebody doing something interesting or out of the ordinary in Madrid and they’d like to do a profile, then let us know. Doesn’t matter where they’re from as long as they speak some English! Just click on the contact link at the bottom of any page on inmadrid.com

MADRID IN ENGLISH

c/Costanilla de San Pedro, 7 (Metro: La Latina) AUGUST 2012

9

Month Ahead Pi CK

■ VINCENT VAN HOGG, POLLY ACKROYD AND VICKY KNILL

o’ the month

theatre

■ BY WILD OSCAR

Tal como somos. Indentidades cotidianas.

Soap—The Show

CentroCentro. Planta 5, Plaza de Cibeles, 1. (Metro: Banco de España). Tel: 91 480 00 08. Tues-Sun, 10am-8pm. Free.

Madrid is a mecca for people-watching, and photographers Luis Baylón and Ricardo Cases have turned this activity into an art form. Tal como somos. Indentidades cotidianas (Just As We Are. Everyday Identities) unites the work of these two wellknown photographers in two collections depicting the beauty and dignity that can be found in Madrid’s everyday citizens. Baylón has been been taking photos in the streets of the capital for more than three decades and uses the way dressing, accessories and gestures characterise a certain time period to illustrate the human need to be indentified collectively. His series Par de dos (Pair of Two), which contains more than 20 black and white photographs, subtly depicts the ancestral human desire to belong to a determined social group. Cases, for his part, is one of the artists responsible for the renewal of documentary photography in Spain.

Through his colourful and pop-art like portraits in the series Belleza de Barrio (Neighbourhood Beauty) anonymous women of different ages unveil their everyday image and their own understanding of beauty in front of the camera. Until 16 Sep.

After success at the Riverside studios in London and the Edinburgh Festival Fringe, Soap—The Show splish-splashes its way to Madrid.

Expect acrobatics, gymnastics, juggling and even a form of trapeze, but the remarkable aspect here is that the performances take place in seven bathtubs, each full of water. Foaming and frothing to a soundtrack that includes classical pieces by Puccini and Tchaikowsky, to sixties and seventies hits from Nina Simone and The Doors, its a spectacle that scores high on originality, creativity and fun. Whether Handel’s “Water Music” or Bobby Darin’s “Splish Splash I Was Taking a Bath” are on the playlist remains unconfirmed. Teatro Caser Calderón, C/Atocha, 18 (Metro: Sol/Tirso de Molina). Tel: 91 429 43 43. Wed, Thurs, 9.30pm; Fri, Sat, 8pm, 11pm; Sun, 8pm. Until 2 Sept.

Centro de Arte Reina Sofía C/Santa Isabel, 52 (Metro: Atocha/Lavapiés). Tel: 91 774 10 00. General admission inc. temporary exhibitions, €6. Temporary exhibition only, €3. Mon-Sat, 10am9pm; Sun, 10am-2.30pm; Tues, closed.

James Coleman Perception, representation, memory and identity are the foundations of James Coleman’s work. He uses audiovisual media, including slide projections, films, narrations and soundtracks, to create environments with references from daily life, literature, art and cinema. The viewer is invited to think about how interpretation shapes our understanding of the things we see. This exhibition presents a wide selection of his work, from early 1970’s pieces to the 1990s, manipulating various forms of photographic art by means of double images, repetitions, and dissociation of image and text. Until 27 Aug.

Museo del Prado Po del Prado, s/n (Metro: Banco de España/Atocha). Tel: 91 330 28 00. Mon-Sat, 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-7pm. General admission €12. Reduced €6. Permanent collection free, Mon-Sat, 6-8pm; Sun 5-7pm.

Murillo and Justino de Neve. El arte de amistad This exhibition looks to highlight some of Murillo’s late work, when he was supported by a canon of Seville catedral, Justino de Neve (16251685), as a patron and friend.

Divided into five sections—portraits, the church of Santa María la Blanca, The Hospital and Confraternity of Los Venerables Sacerdotes, Murillo and Seville

Cathedral, and The Collection of Justino de Neve—the collection has been drawn from sources such as the Louvre, the Dulwich Picture Gallery, and the National Gallery in London. Five of the works have been restored by the Prado especially for this exhibition. Until 30 Sept.

Museo Lázaro Galdiano C/Serrano, 122 (Metro: Gregorio Marañon). Tel: 91 561 60 84. Mon, Wed-Sat, 10am-4.30pm; Sun, 10am-3pm. Entry €6.

A la luz de la seda An exhibition of Moorish weaving, A la luz de la seda (In the Light of the Silk) shows fabrics made during and reflecting the period of muslim culture in southern Spain. Together with the Museo del Alhambra in Granada, experts have worked to gather the surviving pieces of this time-honoured craft. There are examples of Arabic weaving, with the oldest dating from the 13th century, as well as videos demonstrating the techniques used and a “gigapixel” feature which allows visitors to see samples in fine detail. Until 25 Sept.

Other galleries Sombras de una intersección Describing his work as “signs of a stage of existence”, artist Renato Costa has chosen a selection of his paintings from the last few years for Sombras de una intersección (Shadows of an Intersection), with the intention of prompting the viewer to question the physical and spiritual components of the human condition, touching on memory, symbolism and psychology. Born in Brazil, Costa has lived in Madrid since 2005. His work is becoming widely acknowledged, and his distinctive style captures human figures in a unique way. La Fundación Pons, C/Serrano, 138 (Metro: República Argentina).

Tel: 91 562 46 33. Mon-Thurs, 9am-6pm; Fri, 9am-3pm. Until 30 Aug.

Hendaya. Cuando Adolfo encontró a Paco On 23 October, 1940, Hitler and Franco had a seven-hour meeting in Hendaye, situated on the Atlantic coast, on the French border with Spain. What was said has remained unknown; or at least it has until now—although don’t necessarily expect an accurate historical transcript on this occasion. Instead, Hendaya, Cuando Adolfo encontró a Paco (Hendaye, When Adolf met Paco) is a crazy musical comedy, imagining what could have been said, and perhaps what was said, between the two dictators. The production, in Spanish, is written and directed by experienced comedy scriptwriter Pepe Macías. Nuevo Teatro Alcalá, Sala 2, C/Jorge Juan, 62 (Metro: Príncipe de Vergara/Goya). Tel: 91 435 34 03.

Wed-Sun, 9.30pm. Until 12 Aug.

Shirley Valentine Following a two-season tour of

Spain, which attracted more than 50,000 theatregoers, Shirley Valentine arrives in the capital.

Adapted for the Spanish stage by Nacho Artime, Willy Russell’s award-winning comedy monologue focuses on the confessions of a Liverpool housewife, from her kitchen, before and after a holiday abroad transforms her world.

Verónica Forqué, a Spanish actress with more than 50 films and 30 plays to her name, and herself a winner of four Goyas, takes the role of Shirley. Teatro Maravillas, C/de Manuela Malasaña, 2 (Metro: Bilbao/Tribunal). Tel: 91 446 84 05. Wed-Fri, 8pm; Sat, 7pm, 10pm; Sun, 8pm. From 11 Aug.

dance Caprichos para violín y cuerpo Violinist Ara Malikian brings his latest show, based on the 24 caprices of Italian composer Niccolo Paganini, to the stage of the Bellas Artes. Dance, which will be performed by Andoni Larrabeiti, Patricia Roldán, Patrizio Niccola and Vanesa Sanabria, with direction and choreography by Marisol Rozo, is essential to accompany the music on this occasion. Ara Malikian’s professional career has spanned more than 30 successful years. Teatro Bellas Artes, C/del Marqués de Casa Riera, 2 (Metro: Banco de España/Sevilla). Tel: 91 532 44 37. Wed-Sat, 8.30pm; Sun, 7pm.

Until 12 Aug. Photo (CC) flickr: Mat_Jam

Ricardo Cases

art

Man of the match John Fortune is English but works as a football commentator on Spanish TV. Vicky Knill meets him to find out how he managed to find his enviable career

f

Spanish TV, I just felt prepared. Preparation is important,” he explains. “It’s not too bad if it’s Manchester United versus Liverpool, then you can sometimes wing it. But if it’s Scunthorpe United?

Then, you’ve got to do some research. Afterwards I listened to the recording and I thought I sounded awful; just someone speaking Spanish with a Scouse accent! I don’t like listening to myself.”

You’ll never walk alone John has greatly enjoyed the work, but one thing of which he is particularly proud is his involvement Photo (CC) flickr: LovelyLeftFoot

or many football fans it would be a dream job: to appear on TV, amidst a panel of experts, getting paid to talk about the beautiful game. Madridbased Liverpudlian John Fortune has not only managed to achieve that position, but has done so on a Spanish television channel. To chat about the routes and roots of his success, he arrives with a very English sense of punctuality at an Irish bar, and we quickly settle down to talk about football.

A Liverpool fan born and bred, football has always been an important part of his life, and he’s proud that his father, Joe Fortune, played for Liverpool reserves. John began working as a special needs teacher in the UK, but he had a high level of Spanish, having previously taught English whilst living in Madrid, and he was offered a job in Spain translating information about English players for a football management game. The game became popular, and the opportunity meant he changed his UK work to supply teaching so that he could come to Madrid from September to December each year. He also took advantage of the chance to work for Spanish radio, talking about a day’s football events.

Be prepared His big break came just prior to the Liverpool versus Real Madrid Champions League match in 2009, when a friend who worked for Canal+ asked him to help out by conducting an interview in Liverpool on the channel’s behalf. As a result, John was signed as a “co-commentator” with Canal+, offering his views and analysis of English league games. “I didn’t feel nervous about appearing on

10 AUGUST 2012

in a report on the Hillsborough disaster. This tragic event happened 23 years ago, during an FA Cup semi-final between Liverpool and Nottingham Forest. Too many people were forced into the

stands, which were surrounded by high fences, and in the crush 96 Liverpool fans lost their lives.

Controversy still surrounds the incident, with the authorities arguing that the deaths were caused by football hooligans and others claiming they were caused by police negligence. It remains an emotive issue. “We spoke to families and also the Hillsborough Justice Campaign, who are behind the movement to get the papers relating to the case made public,” says John. “The Campaign managed to get 100,000 signatures on a petition, and when you have that number, you can force a debate in the House of Commons.

And once it was on the agenda, no politician was going to say ‘Oh no, I’m not in favour of the documents being published’. It sailed through.”

Image versus reality Despite some modern players having a bad reputation, John sees many in a different light. “Most footballers are working class lads who never forget where they’ve come from. Cristiano Ronaldo is extremely humble. He had a tough childhood and now takes his mum everywhere.” Other players who John claims are down-to-earth and friendly include former Spanish international Albert Ferrer, and ex-Real Madrid stars Raúl and Rafael Alkorta.

“Fernando Torres is extremely shy,” he adds, “and there is one English player in the Premier League who donates a lot of money to charity on the condition that he’s kept anonymous.”

Having spent a large amount of time analysing football styles, John has some interesting theories. “It’s strange, but it seems the Spanish play football in exactly the opposite way to how they go through life; they’re so patient and reserved

on the pitch, it’s all about keeping the ball and biding your time. Completely unlike anything you see when they’re stuck in a traffic jam! With England too, we play in the opposite style of our general culture. We’re normally quite restrained, but on the pitch English football is so impatient!”

An eye to the future In John’s opinion, what future talent should we be keeping our eyes on? “I think that Cristian Tello from Barca could be one to watch. Also Barca’s Jordi Alba. There’s lots of talent coming up all the time in Spain, but sadly I don’t think I can say the same for England. I don’t know why that should be, but it’s a shame.” Whatever happens next season, John hopes to keep the Spanish fans up to date, but he doesn’t see his fixture here as a permanent one. “I don’t want to be old in Madrid. I want to go back to Liverpool sooner rather than later. I miss Anfield too much!”

MADRID IN ENGLISH

Write on!

During his career as a music journalist in the sixties, Tony Norman met some of the biggest names in the business.

Alexandra Sheffield and Jeff Wiseman meet him in Madrid to discuss his book about the decade, My Cool Sixties: Lennon, Jagger & The Rest

Mick Jagger & Tony Norman - London 1969

“

Had the BBC TV bosses not taken the music show off the air, who knows what could have happened!” smiles Tony Norman, casting his mind back to 1966.

London was groovy, music was cool, and he’d written a song with the title of the BBC cult show—Ready Steady Go!—primarily in honour and admiration of its young, attractive presenter, Cathy McGowan. Sadly, the show was cancelled before Tony’s band could cut the disc. But the sixties were about hopes and dreams, and little did he know that, forty five years later, it would be his book about that swinging decade that would bring his group back together and the song to fruition.

Arriving for a chat whilst visiting Madrid on his way to the Spanish coast for a promotional tour, Tony is a larger than life character, distinguished by a wide-brimmed black hat, and bubbling with enthusiasm for the sixties era and music. The title of his book, My Cool Sixties: Lennon, Jagger & The Rest, is a fun wordplay. In his career as a music journalist he interviewed Lennon and Jagger, but The Rest were his mod band—with his sixties mates Shay McKeown, Colin Green, Graham Lynch and Fred Giulianotti—rather than ‘the rest’ of the music scene at the time.

“I had two dreams,” he begins, “The first was to have a hit with The Rest. Of course, when you’re a teenager, everything is very simple. We all loved Ready Steady Go! and Cathy McGowan. So I said I’d write a song for her, we’d record it at Tin Pan Alley [London’s Denmark Street, famous for its music shops and recording studios in the sixties], send it to the BBC, Cathy would love it, she’d immediately put us on the show and we’d be famous. We had it all worked out; but then suddenly the show came to an end!”

Dream number two was to become a writer.

Finding the words

mo’ ‘fo My Cool Sixties: Lennon, Jagger & The Rest (Steampacket Publishing) is available in paperback or kindle from amazon.co.uk, or from the My Cool Sixties website, www.mycoolsixties.co.uk. The EP is also on the site, where you can hear the tracks for free. A new deluxe e-book for iPads, incorporating six of Tony’s sixties-inspired songs, is now available online at iTunes or Kobo. You can also follow Tony Norman on Twitter @mycoolsixties. For photos and work by Chris Walter, see www.chriswalterphotography.com.

T H E E N G L I S H - L A N G U A G E M O N T H LY

Having finished school, but with no idea about how to get a start in journalism, on his Dad’s advice Tony looked at some small ads in the Daily Mail’s “Printing and Allied Trades” column, a section that was usually only for printers. Nevertheless, he spotted a tiny advert saying “Trainee Reporter Required”. He applied, got an interview, and had to write a 1,000-word short story, which he decided would be about a pop group. He got the job with Scottish newspaper group DC Thompson, and after a year as a trainee reporter, he became pop correspondent at Jackie magazine, which was selling one million copies per week. For the rest of the sixties he moved to Top Pops, a magazine with highly regarded music content, similar to the famous Melody Maker or New Musical Express.

His writing led him to cross paths with countless big names. “I start with journalism in the book when I interview John Lennon and Yoko Ono on their return from their Love-in in Amsterdam,” continues Tony, “It puts you right in the heart of the music world.” There were also encounters with George Harrison, who happened to enter an office at Apple Records just as Tony was presenting a recording of his own. “George gave the guy I was presenting it to, Derek Taylor, a look to say ‘What the hell is this?’ I let my imagination take hold as to how it could’ve panned out so differently,” he laughs.

His naivety occasionally got the better of him, not least in an interview with Mick Jagger. They had been chatting about the Rolling Stones’ new single, “Honky Tonk Woman”, and also the band’s forthcoming concert in Hyde Park (Stones in the Park, 1969). “I thought I’d ask him about drugs,” admits Tony, “so I suddenly popped the question, intended in a mellow, hippy way, ‘What does marijuana do?’ Mick stumbled, but then responded ‘Different things to different people’. So I followed up with ‘What does it do for you?’, and he answered ‘What does it do for me?’ but at that point his publicist jumped in because Mick had been subject to a drugs bust not long before. I felt really embarrassed because Mick had been chatting to me so nicely.”

W W W. I N M A D R I D . C O M

Being there Writing My Cool Sixties: Lennon, Jagger & The Rest also presented Tony with an unexpected challenge. He had completed about 5,000 words, but the story wasn’t coming alive. “I felt like I was writing a history book, it was all past tense,” he explains. “In the sixties, something new was happening all the time, and I realised that readers had to feel that they were really there. So I started again, this time writing entirely in the present tense. The star of the book isn’t me, or Jagger, or Lennon, but the sixties, the events, the lifestyle, the counter-culture. I’ve had a lot of kind comments from readers saying they felt as if they were back there again, which makes me happy.”

In addition to the music, the book touches on the turbulence of the times, such as the death of Kennedy, the civil rights movement, and the Cuban missile crisis. Despite the precarious state of world affairs, there’s a also strong sense of humour, and the influence and incentive of sex and girls rolls throughout. The cover blurb of ‘For Adults Only’ is not to be taken lightly.

For the accompanying photos, Tony managed to track down his photographer at the time, Chris Walter, now resident in LA. Many of the shots that Chris provided had not been seen before, and formed part of a My Cool Sixties exhibition in the UK. Perhaps the most eye-catching is a photo of Tony with Jimi Hendrix (see cover), taken during an interview in the BBC canteen. “But as you can see,” says Tony, “no entourage. Just me and him.” An equally relaxed sign of the times was a meeting with James Taylor. “I interviewed James Taylor on several occasions,” Tony recalls, “but after my future wife and I saw his show at the Palladium, we bumped into him in the street. He recognised me, asked us if we’d enjoyed the concert and then introduced the girl at his side: ‘This is Joni John & Yoko - Heathrow - 1 April 1969 Mitchell’. My partner and I were speechless. It was the strangest situation. My girlfriend and I standing in the street, talking with James Taylor and Joni Mitchell like they were just anyone else.”

Keeping track His book was the spark to reunite The Rest, to the extent they have recorded an EP. “Ready Steady Go!” is one of the tracks, now laid down after 45 years on the shelf. It’s a swinging sixties number, touching on the psychedelic, that couldn’t have been written at any other time. A video accompanies it on the My Cool Sixties website, sequencing the sixties photos with an enchanting perspective.

As well as Lennon, Jagger and Hendrix, Tony caught The Yardbirds at The Marquee in 1964, with Eric Clapton playing for them at the time, and as we draw to a close he still appreciates how fortunate he has been. “I was very lucky. To be honest, I can’t believe how lucky I was!” he reflects. “The guys in The Rest kept me very grounded though. They’ve proved to be lifelong friends, and even today we’re still on a kind of trip—we don’t know where it will lead.” Forty five years on for The Rest, in the words of Bob Dylan, the times they are (still) a-changin’.

AUGUST 2012

11

Cured of the jamón lottery What’s the difference between jamón Serrano and jamón Iberíco? What does a PGS label mean? And why is that jamón twice the price of the one next to it? Leah Rodrigues investigates

i

f you walk into any Spanish supermarket you’re likely to be staggered by countless strings of sausages hanging overhead like holiday garlands or ubiquitous legs of jamón dangling from every conceivable space, let alone the ones being thinly sliced on jamoneros by expert butchers. They’re quintessential images and yet the selection can be overwhelming. In order to make educated and tastier food choices, a little knowledge is a necessity, and the following brief guide looks to remove some of the unknowns, and make a visit to a meat counter a little less intimidating. After all, there’s nothing worse than mumbling with indecision and uncertainty in front of a butcher who has access to a selection of sharp knives.

Pork, pork, and more pork In Spain, the pig rules the culinary kingdom. Pork has been part of the Spanish diet for thousands of years, with written references to dry-cured ham dating back to the Roman Empire. Traditionally, Spanish families sacrificed their pig and began the curing process during the first weeks of winter. This ritual is called the matanza, and it was an occasion in which all family members participated, processing the pig for sausage, removing premium cuts for immediate consumption and covering the legs in salt to cure. This practice can still occasionally be found in some areas of Spain, but not surprisingly technological advancement means modern processing companies now cure meat all year long.

Know your quality indicators On a menu or at the supermarket, aside from the price, you will see various key words that indicate the quality of the cured meat. These indicators usually show the breed of pig and its diet, and for how long the meat was cured.

Protected Geographical Status (PGS)—This label has resulted from a series of EU laws to protect regional foods by eliminating the misleading marketing of non-genuine products that may be inferior in quality and flavour. If you see this seal, you know you are getting the real deal.

Iberíco—Meat is from the pata negra or Iberian black pig. The pig can be cross bred but must be at least 50% Iberian black pig to be labelled as such. Cured meats made from this breed will cure between two and four years. Cured meats from the Iberíco pig, which is fed on acorns, are of the highest quality and the best flavour.

Serrano—Meat is from Landrace or Duroc breed of white pig. Cured meats are aged from 9 to 15 months.

Puro—Both parents of the pig were purebred.

Cebo—The pig was only fed grain. These pigs have probably spent their lives on a factory farm. Grain is used as feed because it fattens the pigs quickly, making for cheap jamón but of low quality.

released into oak forests, the dehesa, at ten months old and are allowed to roam for the next four months. This phase is called the montanera. On average, a pig raised in this condition will gain a kilo of fat every day.

The pig’s unique diet of acorns combined with the curing process changes the saturated fats into healthy mono-unsaturated fats high in oleic acid. The only fat higher in oleic acid is olive oil. Hams made in this style will cure more than two years.

Know your meat Embutidos—the general term for cured meat.

Chorizo—a cured sausage made from pork meat and fat, seasoned with paprika (pimiento) and salt. Its most distinctive quality is its deep red colour given by the paprika. Chorizo can be classified as spicy (picante) or sweet (dulce) depending on the kind of paprika used. There are several Spanish regional varieties that may be smoked or unsmoked with a myriad of aromatic ingredients. Can be fried or poached, or for a Galician touch simmered in cider.

Salchichón—a dry cured pork sausage similar to chorizo, but replacing the paprika with black pepper.

Lomo Embuchado—made from the pork loin that is marinated in herbs and spices and then air-dried. There is very little fat compared to other cured meats.

Morcilla—a highly flavoured blood sausage made with a variety of ingredients depending on the region. The base is pork blood and pork fat; the morcilla de Burgos, the most famous, is seasoned with rice, onions, and salt. A sweet morcilla from Galicia contains almonds and raisins and is commonly served as a dessert. (Please don’t be deterred by the word “blood”.

Try it before you make an opinion, it’s quite delicious.)

Jamón York—the pink ham we are accustomed to seeing in grocery stores and in sandwiches (or your normal off-the-shelf ham in the UK and Ireland).

Jamón Serrano—dry-cured, with an intense salty flavour.

The Spanish enjoy Jamón Serrano for breakfast, lunch, dinner or a snack. High quality hams are recognisable by a label from the Consorcio del Jamón Serrano Español (a big curvy S). This means that the hams have passed a series of quality standards, such as being cured for at least 252 days, and a Traditional Specialty Guaranteed (TSG) certification.

Jamón Iberíco—the champion of all Spanish cured meats, Jamón Iberíco enjoys royal status in the Iberian Peninsula and throughout the world. The diet combined with the ageing process allows for the development of a symphony of flavours. A notable quality is the marvellous marbling of fat throughout each piece of meat that begins to melt the instant it touches your tongue. The flavour is less salty than Jamón Serrano and there is a hint of sweetness. The Jamón Iberíco de Bellota has a PGS (see above) throughout several regions in Spain.

Recebo—The pig was fed a mixture of acorns and grain.

Putting pork on your fork

Bellota—The pig was fed on only acorns, making for the best meat in texture and in taste. These pigs are

Spain’s cured meats are one of the country’s gastronomical treasures that reflect its history, regions, and customs. To truly savour the array of flavours, invest

12 AUGUST 2012

Jamón Serrano

Photo: Leah Rodrigues

in some quality varieties, and knowing what you are eating makes the journey of the palette all the more fulfilling.

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clubs-sports LOS NARANJAS - FIELD HOCKEY We are a mixed team of men and women of all ages and levels of experience, who meet

up at the weekends to play hockey and socialise afterwards. If you are interested in joining, contact us via email: los.naranjas.hockey@gmail.com.

MADRID LIONS RUGBY FOOTBALL CLUB, EST. 1997 Madrid Lions Rugby Football Club welcomes new players of all levels and nationalities. Pub night Thursdays from 8.30pm at Finnegan’s, Plaza de las Salesas (Metro Alonso Martínez or Chueca) where you can find out why we are Madrid’s most popular and successful social rugby club. Check out www.madridlionsrfc.com, email info@madridlionsrfc.com or ring Charlie on 636 067 716 or Paul on 679 225 067.

MADRID CRICKET CLUB Madrid Cricket Club is always looking for new players of all levels and nationalities. We hold regular training sessions and friendly matches in Madrid from March to November and we have two teams in the Spanish Cricket League. For more info contact Joss (663 395 058) or Jon (655 069 9 11), send an Email to cricketinmadrid@yahoo.co.uk or visit www.cricketinmadrid.com.

MADRID BARBARIANS RUGBY FOOTBALL CLUB The only truly competitive and social international rugby club in Madrid open to players of all levels, both ex-pats and locals. Regular league games, twice weekly training and social games for two men’s teams and one ladies team. Yearly tour, many social events.

Recently promoted in leagues. Looking for more players, coaches, supporters.

Traditional rugby values, families welcome.

Visit our web page www.madridbarbarians.com or find us on Facebook. Contact email madridbarbarians@ymail.com.

counselling COUNSELLING MADRID Counselling Madrid is devoted to the international community in Madrid. We provide confidential counselling services to students, expats and spouses. Visit our website for more details: www.counsellingmadrid.org.

PSYCHOLOGY/PSYCHIATRY/SPEECH& OCCUPATIONAL THERAPY Counseling/Psychology, Psychiatry, Speech and Occupational therapy services in English and Spanish (some services also available in other languages) for all ages.

Our staff of professionals has vast clinical experience helping adults and children in the English-speaking community in Madrid with depression, anxiety, cultural adaptation, couples/relationship problems, sensory impairments, language disorders and more. www.sinews.es Address: C/ Zurbano, 34, 1ºizq. Madrid 28010 Telephone: 91 700 19 79 Fax: 91 308 23 72.

health-and-fitness WANT TO IMPROVE YOUR HEALTH AND FITNESS? Hazel Fry is a Personal Trainer and Nutritional Therapist based in the centre of Madrid. My aim is to help others achieve their health and fitness goals through a well structured training schedule and healthy eating habits. In every day life we’re faced with various different challenges and there is no bigger challenge than keeping fit, healthy and feeling great every day. I would like to help you achieve your goals by guiding you through specialised training plans and providing advice on nutrition and healthy eating. For more info, please visit my website: www.hfhealthandfitness.com.

heart-to-heart hetero MUJER ESPAÑOLA Mujer Española, mayor de 50 años, con formación internacional, busca amigos/as, no fumadores, a partir de 45/50 años, de diferentes nacionalidades, personas

buenas, honestas, leales, cultivadas, que sean amantes de la naturaleza, con sensibilidad artística y espiritual. amara04@hotmail.es.

GOOD ENGLISH MAN SEEKS GOOD WOMAN 8 years here, teaching, 40s, arts interests, seeks 30-40s soulmate with stamina and looks... nlincsocialist@yahoo.co.uk.

I'M LOOKING FOR A LOVELY WOMAN Siento no poder escribir con más detalle mi anuncio en el idioma inglés , pero mis conocimientos son muy escasos. Así que discúlpame por continuar en español. Me llamo José,tengo 50 años,soy madrileño y busco una mujer agradable con quien establecer una relacción afectiva. Envíame tu mensaje a: josemi_prieto@yahoo.es.

ENGLISHMAN,LONDONER hoping to meet a woman who knocks me off my feet, not literally I hope. Would prefer over 35, plus if Spanish not living with parents. Non-smoker essential. Email: nothotmaildotcom@yahoo.co.uk.

BUSCO MUJER Hola, soy José, madileño,50 años. Busco una mujer agradable, española o angloparlante (mi inglés es básicamente inexistente, pero puedes ayudarme si quieres)para una relacción de amistad o más profunda si surge. Envíame tu mensaje a josemi_prieto@yahoo.es Gracias.

ATTACHED MAN Looking for married or single women to improve his sex life. If you are not judgmental then drop me line at cj94up@yahoo.co.uk. friendship LONDONER, MALE and English teacher hoping to revitalize social life looking for new friends.Preferably over 35s or Spaniards who do not live with parents.

i-saw-you ON THE METRO You were a sexy blonde lady dressed in black I saw on line 7 about 8.30 Friday 29th June. I was facing you. I had a boy next to me If you want to meet. then email me at shepardsid@yahoo.es.

IN THE LIFT AT CAIXA FORUM I hit you in the face with my guitar case when I bent down to pick up your phone which you had dropped and I haven’t been able to stop thinking about you since. I was the red haired Scotsman with a guitar on my back and you the black-haired, green-eyed vision that I can’t get out of my head. I’d love to have coffee with you. barrywallman[at]gmail[dot]com

intercambios spanish-offered ARE YOU SEEKING FOR IMPROVEMENT? Is your Spanish still bad???, don't worry!! I’m a friendly guy who loves helping other people with their Spanish, so do not hesitate to contact me!.we can learn from each other. my email account is javierspain5@hotmail.es (.es not .com lol).

FRIEND hello, I’m a woman. I need a english teacher, I need to help me about pronunciation, conversation and my vocabulary. My schedule is monday thursday 09:00 - 18:00-, friday 09:00 16:00,and SATURDAY AND SUNDAY FREE. mobilephone is 686362184. thanks so much.

SPANISH FOR BASIC ENGLISH Hello, I'm josé, madrilian, 50 years old. I'm looking for a nice women teacher to improve my poor english. I can help you with your Spanish.

We can also share other activities such visit art-exhibitions, cinema, etc. ..Why not play ping pong? Do you like it? please email to: josemi_prieto@yahoo.es.

groups MULTILINKUAL: INTERNATIONAL FRIENDS IN MADRID Multilinkual.com Meet new people and practice languages, FREE. Tuesdays (O’Neill’s, Príncipe 12, 22h), Thursdays (Beer Station, Santo Domingo square, 22h), Fridays (o.v. movies at Cine Ideal, 4D pub, Jacinto Benavente square), ask for David. Also dinners, trips... puestres@yahoo.es, Facebook: Multilinkual.

MADRIDBABEL: INTERNATIONAL ACTIVITIES IN MADRID!!! Meet people from all over the world, practise languages absolutely FREE & make new friends through our wide range of international activities: EVERY WEDNESDAY > International Evening from 20:30 at Café Galdós (Los Madrazo 10 - metro Sevilla).

EVERY SUNDAY > International Afternoon from 19:00 at Café Galdós (Los Madrazo 10 - metro Sevilla). EVERY WEEK-END > Films in o.v., international dinners, tapas evenings, excursions, trips, sports, wine tastings, cultural visits, parties & many other activities!! For more info contact Fran (madridbabel@yahoo.es) or visit www.madridbabel.es.

jobs jobs-offered ENGLISH TEACHERS NEEDED FOR YEAR COURSE LCTIDIOMAS is looking for English teachers with TEFL or similar for year course starting in October. We are an optimistic group of people who love English and those who speak it. Our services range from onsite classes to toddlers and children to business classes and exam preparation.

Conditions of employment: part-time job, in the afternoon. Possibility of enhancement in the morning or 1-t-1 classes. We offer contract. Interviews conducted in July and September. Please SEND YOUR CV to lctidiomas@hotmail.com Two academies in Trav. San Isidoro de Sevilla 6 and Valdelasierra 1.

WANTED: LIVE IN AU PAIR FOR SEPT/OCT Young family, baby (1 year), son (3 years) and daughter (6 years)seek Live in Au Pair. English speaker essential. No need for Spanish. Duties to include: looking after and entertaining children 5pm to 9pm.

No housekeeping, cleaning or cooking duties. Large, comfortable duplex flat with huge terrace. Private room provided with Wifi. Food and board provided.

50euro/week pocket money. Perfect for student. Metro: Arturo Soria and plenty of buses to centre and transport hubs. Call: 687830219 Email: easensi74@gmail.com Ask for Esther.

services LIVELY CELTIC MUSIC Talented Irish musicians available for concerts, functions, weddings and parties. Tel: 654 225 305.

COMPUTERS / NETWORKS / WEBSITES System administrator offers professional service. Computer / laptop repair, data recovery, password recovery, IT infrastructure planning, software installation and maintenance, network administration, resolving email problems, IT security, backup solutions, web pages. Windows, MacOs, Linux/UNIX supported. I speak English and Spanish. email: info@swiftnetsolutions.com or Mobile: +34 618 434 067.

CAT SITTER WANTED IN THE CENTRE OF MADRID I’m looking for an animal lover to look after my two cats from time to time while I am on holiday or away on business.

I live very near Metro Anton Martin.If you have dogs or cats this can be a reciprocal agreement, if not we can discuss payment.

Tel. 914 686 835 or scottadamsmadrid@gmail.com.

ENGLISH CV WRITING Are you looking to work for a foreign company or for the next step in your career? We offer professional English CV writing services and have over 20 years experience. For a free no obligation appraisal, email your CV to info@cvstop.net.

PIANO TUNING AND REPAIRS 20 years in California, 10 years in New York,voted best of New York in 2007, now residing in Madrid area, concert pianotuner offers the best piano service you will experience. I have worked in the best concert halls of the world including ,Carnegie Hall, Taipei National concert Hall,Paris Magador Theater, San Francisco Herbst Theater,Opera and Ballet as a Chief Tuner-Technician, Hong Kong, Shanghai. Worked with the such pianists as Bella Davidovich, Joaquin Soriano, Oxana Yablonskaya and many other great musicians. Reasonable prices . Please call or e-mail at finepianos@yahoo.com or 657162111.

IBAS SOCIAL & ADMINISTRATIVE SERVICES Tax declaration Registration Certificates Housing in Madrid Banking & Insurance Internet, Phone, TV www.ibas.es info@ibas.es +34640030721 facebook.com/ibasmadrid.

travel-adventure CIVIL WAR TOURS OF BATTLEFIELD SITES AROUND MADRID Following the footsteps of four famous artists who recorded the Spanish civil war - Ernest Hemingway, John Cornford, Gerda Taro and Charlie Donnelly - these walking tours will visit the sites of crucial battles. The day trips to Brunete, Jarama, Guadarrama and Casa de Campo are led by an expert guide with transport and picnic lunch provided.

Find out more about the war, the history and see what remains. Visit the web site for more details http://spanishsites.org/ Contact spanishsites@ymail.com or call Dr David Mathieson 646148685.

Lots more ads online in many different categories at inmadrid.com

MADRID IN ENGLISH

service guide service guide service guide service guide service guide Language Services

Work Offered

C.E.E. -Idiomas Spanish Language School - All levels - Preparation for DELE Exam - Cultural activities

Also ENGLISH - FRENCH GERMAN - ITALIAN

89E 20 HOURS MONTHLY

148E 40 HOURS MONTHLY * Groups or private classes * Special classes for companies c/Carmen, 6 — 28013 Madrid 91 522 04 72 - 91 521 10 04 91 522 18 57 - 91 531 38 56 e-mail: info@cee-idiomas.com

Work Offered

Journalism, video and marketing interns We are looking for enthusiatic people who’d like to gain some real-world journalism, video or marketing experience on Madrid’s leading print and web based English-language magazine.

Please tell us about yourself by emailing work@in-madrid.com

MADRID IN ENGLISH

AUGUST 2012

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