Nutramedic &Cosmetics
Getting Ahead of the Trend for Silicone-free Cosmetics Volatile silicones are on the way out of the cosmetics industry. Strict new regulations and increasingly eco-conscious consumers are driving a switch to silicone-free products. Why is this happening now? And what alternatives are there? There are two main driving forces for this trend: changing regulations and shifting consumer preferences.
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hen it comes to regulations for silicones in cosmetics, we’re mostly talking about three commercial volatile cyclosiloxanes: D4, D5 and D6. They are attracting regulatory attention because they were (in case of D4) or continue to be commonly used ingredients in the beauty industry but do not have a positive ecological profile. This applies in particular to D4, which belongs to category 1 for chronic aquatic toxicity and has a mandatory classification as category 2, “toxic to reproduction”, indicating that it is harmful to humans. D5 and D6 are likewise persistent, not biodegradable, and ultimately harmful to the environment. Governments worldwide are restricting or sometimes prohibiting the use of these materials in cosmetics. While it is already forbidden to actively use D4 in cosmetic products according to the EU cosmetics regulation (EU/1223/2009), its presence is still possible as an unintended impurity arising from other raw materials. To cover the unintended presence of this type of substance, they are classified as a Substance of Very High Concern (SVHC) in the European Union, while the presence of D4 and D5 in a concentration equal to or greater than 0.1 percent has been prohibited for rinse-off cosmetics since February 2020. The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) has now submitted a proposal to extend this restriction to D6, and to also include leave-on applications for all three cyclosiloxanes. When this legislation is approved, manufacturers will have five years to phase out these materials. Outside the EU, a similar regulatory focus is gathering momentum. As cyclomethicones have been under discussion for several years now, some companies have already excluded those structures from their formulations. Due to the recent regulatory developments, there is now fresh impetus to do so. By staying ahead of this regulatory trend, companies can tap into perception and high technical performance that are difficult to replicate. We are creating a portfolio of sustainable alternatives, i.e. without use of silicones – and not just the materials that
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author: Michal Stepulak, PhD, Senior Technical Manager Personal Care, Head of Reginal Formulation Center, BASF
the regulators are focusing on. Our specialists are developing state-of-the-art solutions that make it possible to eliminate all silicones from cosmetics. Fully replacing silicones puts manufacturers in a strong position, because their formulations are ahead of whatever regulations might be introduced for silicones in cosmetics, anytime and anywhere in the world. Emollients are a great example. These ingredients play a key role in creating cosmetic products that have a pleasant skin feel and gratifying textures. Especially light textures are very popular among consumers. They also provide a protective layer on the skin, keep it moisturized, solubilize lipophilic active ingredients and crystalline UV filters, and help to disperse pigments. We reviewed the use of cyclosiloxanes in various recently launched skin care products and color cos-
