APRIL 2014
MAGAZINE
THE SPORT OF FASHION
ISSUE 008
TABLE OF CONTENTS
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44 78 7 WHO WE ARE
The geniuses behind the app.
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CONTRIBUTORS So thankful for you.
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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
12 OUR COVER MODEL
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COVER STORY A Dark Sport.
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TRENDS
ARE YOU ON THE LIST? Fashion, fashion, fashion.
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HAUTE ITEMS Sprint for them.
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Lisa Dengler. What a sport.
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Perfectly Pink.
142 EDITORIAL
20 LOOK WHO’S BLOGGING 26 BEAUTY
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BEHIND THE FASHION Fashion Incubator.
Kaitlyn of Stars Model Managment.
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EDITORIAL Spring Boardwalking. INSPIRARELAND Jenny Gering of The Americans. RISING STARS BALAGANS Denim.
Three Little Sisters.
Color, Meet Me Halfway.
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WHO WE ARE
MEET THE FOLKS BEHIND INSPIRARE MAGAZINE
MICHELLE BOCCIA Design Director.
ADRIENNE GLENN
Executive Editor.
PAULA TABINKSI
Journalist.
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JOSEPHINE LIU
Business Development.
MICHELLE ARNO Intern.
CONTRIBUTORs
THE AMAZINGLY TALENTED PEOPLE THAT ADD TO THE WORDS, IMAGES AND FASHION OF INSPIRARE MAGAZINE JEN MCGOWAN
Photographer. Jen is a photographer specializing in fashion. She often loves to incorporate textures and elements of nature into her photos to create an organic feel. Over the past couple years, Jen has adapted a romantic style with a dark side, which comes out when using experimental techniques.
CHRISTINE MATHIAS
Journalist. Christine is a radio producer and host, writer, and all-around mouthy irritant. She has obsessive relationships with dozens of TV shows, books, and fictional worlds, so she’s pretty much a nerd, too.
NICOLAS ARDELEAN Photographer.
Nico is a graphic designer and part-time fashion photographer. While he enjoys both studio and location shoots, his preference leans towards runway photography. 8
JARIDANN JAMIE Makeup and Hair Sylist.
Drawing inspiration from all performance arts and making that inspiration manifest through individual and collaborative means.
MARGHERITA ANGELI Photographer.
A 31 year old, Italian photographer, based in Zurich, crazy for photography and in love with travel, fashion, cinema, art and nature.
MICHELLE RIVET
ALI COPANI
“All credibility, all good conscience, all evidence of truth come only from the senses.” - Friedrich Nietzsche
A stylist from Florida, Ali came to San Francisco for bigger and better things. Inspiration comes from the streets of the city, and the style of the locals. She favors avant garde and is always eager to test her creativity.
Stylist.
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MakeUp and Hair Stylist.
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
Sunshine and sweet, soft breezes; I tenderly conjure up of visions of flowers and rebirth. I think that is why the springtime brings a smile to my often-tired face. It is a time for us to reflect on the coldness that has passed and what is yet to come, the slow growing warmth energizes us! This reenergized feeling quickly translates to how we cover our bodies. We shed the sleeves to allow the sunshine to hit our skin. Our skirts and pants grow shorter. We kick off our boots for sandals and open-toed pumps. Our sunglass selection once again grows on our dresser top and we bound out the door, sporting off to another sunshine filled event. This issue we introduce a great new designer, Sounthavong, that designs for those sporty moments, in serious style. Also, on our pages you will see dressy womenswear springtime options, from all over the globe. Thank you for taking the time away from your bustling Spring days to flip through our amazing new digital app pages, and please be sure to share your favorite sections with your social network circles! To contact our Executive Editor, you can reach her at adrienne@inspirare.com or 415.449.8894
Happy sporting,
ADRIENNE GLENN Executive Editor.
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OUR EDITOR’S HOTTEST PICKS FROM THE
INSPIRARE DESIGNER MARKETPLACE
Hello Sailor Hip Bag
Leather ‘Dolphin’ Shorts
Noelle Dress
Ann Bittner $50
Ego Non $219
Sarah Ahn $280
Cowl Neck Cotton Dress
Pink Palm Dress
Cut Out Pants
Ria Faragova $67.84
DAIGE Girls $150
DAIGE Girls $90
TO PURCHASE THESE LOVELY ITEMS VISIT:
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COVER MODEL
Meet our Cover Model
Kaitlyn...
Photo by Jen McGowan
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A gorgeous mix of blood from all over the globe, Kaitlyn is the perfect cover model for Inspirare. As a global fashion magazine we strive to showcase beauty from every walk of life, and this month’s cover model is a beautiful blend of striking humanity. Take a few moments to learn a little more about Kaitlyn, and what makes her cover worthy! How long have you been modeling? Since I was 17! Tell us what got you started in modeling… I got scouted in San Francisco, walking around. Where were you born and where did you grow up? I was born in Hayward, California and grew up in Pleasanton, California. What is your ethnicity? I am quite the mutt actually. Here it goes: Filipino, Spanish, Mexican, Spanish, Portuguese, Native American, Norwegian, Swedish, Irish, Polish, and German. What is your favorite color? I love the color of the many beautiful oceans in the world. So I would have to say aqua, turquoise, and all those beautiful shades of blue. However my favorite color to wear is black or white. Beautiful and simplistic. A healthy body is important as a model, how do you keep yourself fit and happy? I keep myself fit and happy by eating very healthy. I don’t eat meat or dairy, and try to stay away from refined sugar. I love cooking, making smoothies, and juicing! To stay fit I do many forms of exercising, however my favorite is running and yoga! 13
What do you love most about being a model? I love the places I get to travel and see. I also am a big lover of fashion, so it is really amazing to be able to be around the people who develop the trends and play such a large role in the growth of the fashion industry! What do you see as the biggest challenges in modeling? The biggest challenges in modeling for me is the time you spend away from loved ones when traveling, or shooting spring/summer collections in winter weather! ;) Do you have a favorite clothing item or accessory? I would have to say my Levi’s ripped shorts/ jeans. They are casual and cool, and my favorite to be laid back in. I also love delicate gold jewelry. I always wear a crescent moon necklace that has a dangling crystal star and wear very simple gold rings and earrings. Who is your favorite designer? Ah, this is a tough one because there are so many designers I absolutely love and who I am an avid supporter of. If I were to choose a few brands it would be Belenciaga, Rag & Bone, Stone Cold Fox, and For Love and Lemons. How did you prepare for this shoot with Inspirare? A good nights sleep! I’m a strong believer in getting my beauty sleep! What does fashion mean to you? Fashion to me means a way to uniquely express oneself through personal style. If you could tell the world one thing about Kaitlyn, what would it be? I love being myself, because whats more unique than that? To book Kaitlyn visit: starsmodels.com
For Fashion Lovers! See unique fashion from all of the world, follow and chat with amazing up and coming designers, shop from some of the most individual stores available anywhere! And don’t forget to link Inspirare to all of your favorite social media sites for an even better experience.
STEP 1
Go to INSPIRARE.COM
STEP 2
Click the SHOP button
STEP 3
Click REGISTER
STEP 4
Enter your information or register with Facebook, Twitter or Instagram
STEP 5
Click SAVE PROFILE
Don’t worry you won’t get a ton of annoying emails from us, unless you want them! STEP 6
STEP 7
Shop , Connect, Experience!
For Fashion DESIGNERS! Sell your unique fashions all over the world, follow and chat with other designers, customers and friends! With INSPIRARE, designers are eligible for an array of marketing services such as advertising, magazine features, and much more! All of this is free of charge, so what are you waiting for? Sign up now!
STEP 1
Go to INSPIRARE.COM
STEP 2
Click the SHOP button
STEP 3
Click REGISTER
STEP 4
Enter your information or register with Facebook, Twitter or Instagram
Don’t worry you won’t get a ton of annoying emails from us, unless you want them!
STEP 5
Upload your collection and start selling your pieces worldwide
HAUTE ITEMS
Run, Jog and
FOR HAUTE ITEMS
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Quad Squad Derby KENNETH COLE $125
Score Keeping Wristband SCOREBAND $30
Pretty Pearl Punk Necklace BETSEY JOHNSON $145
Vegan Leather Tote URBAN OUTFITTERS $59
Racquet Lariat Necklace LOVE BY HAZEL $300
‘Paris’ Micro Stud Pump SAINT LAURENT $1,095
Formula X ‘The Cut’ Polish SEPHORA $10.50
Mens Pilot Sunglasses PRADA $260
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‘Roses de Chloe’ CHLOE $95
Cotton Camel Stripe
marion Shoulder Bag
J.CREW $70
TORY BURCH $475
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LOOK WHO’s BLOGGING
The Sporty Spice of Blogging Written by Paula Tabinski
Just a shy girl from New York with a passion for fashion, Lisa shows us how she stands out in the city that never sleeps. Blogging sometimes twice a week with outfits, inspiration boards and wish lists, there’s something for everyone with different styles as she brings together some of the top trends and most underrated looks this spring. This natural beauty can pull off suits, flats and oversized pieces, but always manages to keep it elegant and classic. Inspired by Alexander Wong, the undone and oversized look infuse her entire wardrobe. Be inspired by her effortlessly classy and cool vibe, perfect for the quirky working city woman or casual weekends. INSPIRARE.com
How would you describe yourself and how does it compare to your style? I’m a pretty easygoing person, though I am very determined and love to live in every moment. I love being constantly inspired, and thus my style is constantly evolving as I discover who I am. I love contrasting elements, which I think comes from my 5 years of studying architecture. What is your favorite sporty outfit and why? I mean, anything with sneakers, for comfort reasons. For style reasons, I love mixing something girly with a sporty shoe. Again, with the contrast.
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What do you dislike currently in fashion today? To be honest, I’m starting to realize I shouldn’t bother disliking anything, because a designer is eventually going to come along and make it cool again. Case in point - Birkenstocks. I noticed that you wrote in your blog your style is becoming more flowy and easygoing. Why is this? How do you see your style changing in the future? I was getting really inspired by what I saw on the runway for spring, which still had the same boxy boyish qualities that I love so much, but also had so many beautiful flowy and easygoing pieces. And this time
around I think it’s really resonating with me as I’m starting to grow up and appreciate this easygoing style, that’s a little more elegant. What can people expect to see coming up in your blog this spring/early summer? I’m starting to play around more with editorial type shoots. So not necessarily something they would want to wear, but something they see, get inspired by, and it somehow translates into their own wardrobe and style. This mixed with my own style, and more trend forecasting, wish lists, what inspires me, and so on. I have a lot of things I want to do with the blog, so it should be really exciting! What things are you most looking forward to this year? Just continuing to live my blogging life, meeting amazing people, hopefully doing some more travelling, and working with some really amazing brands.
Have you ever been involved in any sport? I used to do all kinds of sports in high school. But that sadly ended once university started since there was no real free time, and now that I’m full time blogging, I only really have time to go to the gym and do some hot yoga (which is amazing by the way!).
Where are your favorite hot spots in NYC? I just love exploring the Soho, Noho, Tribeca, The West Village, The East Village, Chinatown, The High Line, The Meatpacking District, and the Lower East Side, which seems like a lot, but they are all kind of joined together. There are so many endlessly cool places to be discovered.
I noticed you did a blog called sporty spice. What inspired you to create that outfit? Of all the Spice Girls, I always loved sporty spice the best. I was always a bit of a tomboy.
What is your typical outfit for: …a busy day working: Loose trousers, a loose sweater or tee and my most comfortable flats. Add a blazer for a little more structure and a giant carryall bag because you’re going to need it! …a night out: High-waisted ultra skinny
Seeing as you’re an Architecture graduate, what made you start blogging? It started out as an excuse to design websites, then I started sharing the things that inspired me, which turned out to be a lot of fashion, and it sort of turned into this fashion blog that grew with me. Architecture has taught me a lot about style that is timeless, because in architecture a building lasts a whole lot longer than a trend. So I think that’s now what makes my style a little more classic. Which trends do you love the most? Currently: slip on flat sandals and shoes, cropped tops, pastels worn with black, loose suits worn casually, sheer and lace things, menswear inspired, cropped at the ankle, boyfriend and mom jeans. What do you do to stay active? I like riding the bike at the gym because I can also read at the same time, so that just makes it seem so efficient. I also do hot yoga once a week.
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jeans, a lace cami, a pair of stilettos, and a cute mini bag. …going for lunch with friends: Boyfriend jeans, black leather loafers, an unbuttoned blouse with a statement necklace and a leather jacket thrown over. What are your plans for the future? I’m not sure really. I don’t like planning too far in advance. Instead I let life take me where it wants to. Just so long as I enjoy doing what I’m doing, and I have people around me to love. What do you love and hate about living in NYC? New York is endlessly inspiring and exciting, which is exactly how I want to live, and
exactly why I live here. But it can get a little overcrowded sometimes, which gets a little stressful, especially when you’re trying to get somewhere fast. What is your favorite sporty piece and why? Sneakers because my feet are so unbelievably thankful whenever I wear them. What is one of your favorite movies and why? Amelie because she sees life in such a creative way. To learn more about Lisa visit: just-another.me facebook.com/justanotherfashionblog instagram.com/lisadengler
BEAUTY
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perfectly
PINK Photographed by Böhmisch - bohmisch.com Model: Marina Sophia de Jong MakeUp : Belen Martin Photo Assistant : Vicky Cozarrín Hair Stylist: Böhmisch Accesories: Clovis Joyas Clothing: Maria Pryor Photographed in: Buenos Aires, Argentina
Perfectly Pink Written by Michelle Arno The prima ballerina is the most coveted spot at a dance company and the hardest to obtain. All other ballerinas would fight and kill to be her. But is it all it’s talked up to be? Sophie has starred as Odette, Cinderella, Juliet, and the Sugar Plum Fairy. She knows the ins and outs of every ballet. Throngs of people line up to see her grace the spotlight and command the stage. She captures hearts night after night. Little girls dream of being her. However, Sophie is never wearing pointe shoes in her fantasies. She would trade them in for combat boots and a microphone any day. Her tutu for a leather mini skirt, her nude stockings for black ripped tights, and her perfect bun for a crimped, wild mane. She’s sick of obeying the laws of perfect lines and posture. Sophie slouches in her seat on the bus ride home. She clears out the dulcet tunes of her latest ballet performance - she can’t even keep track or care to remember what it is anymore - by blasting “Bad Reputation” by Joan Jett and the Blackhearts in her headphones. Cliché, she admits, but a classic and one of her all time faves. She looks across the seat at the drunk, punk couple across from her taking swigs out of a flask and half wishes she could join them. The second Sophie steps through the door of her apartment, she releases her hair and graffiti’s her face. She never feels more INSPIRARE.com
rebellious than when she swipes on her hot pink lipstick and sea foam green eye shadow. Her director would never approve. She shakes her hair free and dreams of head banging with a crowd of true rocker chicks. The girls she aspires to be a part of. She doesn’t understand why she ever shared the dream of all of those little girls who bring her bouquets of flowers night after night. She remembers being one of them. Waiting patiently outside of the theatre until all of the dancers strutted out in their street clothes. Always looking so much cooler than anyone could ever be in a tank and a pair of sweats. The most elegant of all of them, the prima. Even in sweats, she was still the most elegant creature to grace the earth, at least in young Sophie’s opinion. She would have given up everything - her friends, her puppy, her love of ice cream - to become the prima. And she did. Now she regrets it all. Will tonight be the night she finally lets herself be free of withholding the reputation that every prima ballerina is supposed to obtain? Is it possible that her makeup and hair will help her to release her true rocker persona? Donned in black and a little splash of pink - old habits die hard - Sophie rushes out into the night before she can change her mind. She may become a rocker chick or a punk princess, but she will always be perfectly pink. 28
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BLING BONANZA
Neanide: A Jewelry that Dares to be Different Contemporary visual art is what influences Francesca, the designer of Neanide. She enjoys using unusual objects such as bolts and nails, and turning them into decorative pieces. She quotes the idea of Marcel Duchamp, conferring dignity to common objects. A revolution in art, she follows this path, changing the intended use of objects belonging to everyday life, and giving them a brand new identity.
many centuries.Studying at the Academy of Fine Arts in Naples taught this designer to work outside the box of average design. Francesca’s current favorite material is sand. Loving the idea of wearing the earth, this use of natural material showcases the basic principles of her design… “Stand out from the crowd. This jewelry is made for women unafraid to be themselves, who want challenge conventions.”
Getting much of her inspiration from travel, the collections of Neanide have recently been inspired by the culture of Naples. The first collection, Rugiada, was inspired by the goldsmith tradition that Calabria has inherited from Greeks and from the “Arbëreshë people”, an ethnic and linguistic Albanian minority community that has lived in southern Italy for
This talented jewelry designer holds great wisdom when she tells us, “The key to success, I believe, is to know how to reinvent yourself through research, courage, hard work and, of course, passion.”
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To shop Neanide visit shop.inspirare.com/Neanide
“I like to think that we can play with the design, be ironic, dare.” -Neanide
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GUEST EDITORIAL
COLOR
MEET ME HALFWAY Photographed by Margherita Angeli Styling: Adrian Gloor Mua&Hair: Marlen Kabakci Model: catalina @ Scout Model Zuerich Assistant: Leonardo Gallarado Post Production: Veronica Arganese Thanks to: Joanna Meister, Fashion Designer
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BEHIND THE FASHION
THE FASHION INCUBATOR SF, Chicago, Philadelphia Launch their New Class of 2014
Written by Adrienne Glenn
Every spring, Fashion Incubators across the country accept their new group of starting designers and welcome them into the open arms of a nurturing environment. For those of us that reside in this industry, we know that fashion can be fickle. As much as we love her, starting a career with fashion can be an incredibly challenging and complicated task. Each year Macy’s takes on six promising designers and guides them through the often-daunting task of launching a fashion line. Executive Director, Jeanne Allen, has overseen Fashion Incubator San Francisco or FISF for three years now. After a yearlong education, with a provided workspace, set curriculum and daily mentoring opportunities, she sets them free to use their knowledge and share their new apparel qualifications with the city. INSPIRARE.com
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Lia Larrea What excites you most about the Fashion Incubator program? It is the place where I am working on making my dream a reality. I am also meeting talented and creative people who I can learn from. What are you hoping to learn this year? Who I truly am as a designer. What/who inspires you to create fashion? My own life experiences and background. Fashion is not only about creating clothes, it is about our way of life and how we reflect ourselves. Everyone has something unique about them and the wonderful part about it is, that as designers, we can we can show that through our creation. What dreams do you have for your brand? To be a true reflection of my work and for people to constantly want it. Who is your customer? Independent women who have a strong sense of their goals. Do you have a formal education in fashion or are you self-taught? A Bachelor of Fine Arts from the Art Institute of California- San Francisco. If you could dress only one person, alive or dead, who would it be? Jennifer Connelly Zippers or buttons? Zippers Who is your favorite designer (besides yourself)? It’s hard to have one favorite designer, I appreciate a variety of artists. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Ricardo Tisci are among some of my favorites. For more information visit lialarrea.com
“It is the place where I am working on making my dream a reality.”
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Amanda Scarlett Smith of Scarlett Smith What/who inspires you to create fashion? I have always wanted to be a designer. I cannot remember a time when it wasn’t my dream. Everything inspires me, from a raindrop falling on the floor, the shapes and lines of a beautiful building, a movie … everything I experience I relate to fashion from an idea for a sleeve, a colour palette, silhouette, print. I just open my eyes and experience the possibilities. What dreams do you have for your brand? To see Scarlett Smith launch and grow. I wish Scarlett Smith to grow into a company that balances a smart, commercial brand with creativity. I want women to come to me when they want to feel beautiful, successful and confident. I wish to be known for beautifully crafted, structural clothing that is sensitive yet challenging. Do you have a formal education in fashion or are you self-taught? I graduated from Central St. Martins, London, UK with a BA (hons) in Fashion Design Womenswear. If you could dress only one person, alive or dead, who would it be? Cate Blanchett. Such poise, beauty and attitude. Who is your favorite designer (besides yourself)? My all time favourite designer has to be Alexander McQueen. I was introduced to his vision when I worked on his first fashion show while I was at college. I fell in love with his work and his skillful tailoring and construction and hands on approach to the design process. It was amazing to see such a talent launched into the fashion arena.
“I have always wanted to be a designer. I cannot remember a time when it wasn’t my dream.”
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Anna Min of Min Edition What excites you most about the Fashion Incubator program? The access to information! It would probably take me years if not decades to build up the contacts and relationships that I have access to through the program. What are you hoping to learn this year? I really want to better understand how the industry works so I can decide if and when it makes sense to experiment and do things differently. What dreams do you have for your brand? My goal is to disrupt the women’s ready-to-wear petite market and be the go-to label for chic women 5’4” and shorter. But more than that, I want to be a brand that women covet, not just petite women, but all women. Who is your customer? My customer is a woman who desires to update her look with quality pieces that will last, but often has trouble finding the right clothes to fit her petite frame. She’s put together, but dresses with an easy confidence because of the care she puts into curating her wardrobe. If you could dress only one person, alive or dead, who would it be? Edna Mode from the Incredibles. But no capes, I wouldn’t want to face her wrath. Zippers or buttons? Buttons Who is your favorite designer (besides yourself)? My favorite contemporary designer is Alber Elbaz. He really thinks about a women’s body and the way women want to look and feel. For more information visit min-edition.com
“I want to be a brand that women covet, not just petite women, but all women.”
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Stephanie Bodar of Honey Cooler Handmade What excites you most about the Fashion Incubator program? I’ve been working to slowly grow Honey Cooler Handmade over the past few years, but doing so as a one-woman show is a daunting task at times; I’ve put off from moving forward with production until now because the thought of doing so by myself felt paralyzing. Given that, the thing that excites me most about residency at FiSF is the promise of sending two collections through the full development and production process. The Incubator makes all that possible by connecting the Designers in Residence with industry professionals on a regular basis. With them we discuss all aspects of design and production, so there’s a support system in place if and when we need it. What’s more, each of the designers in the program brings her own unique perspective to the table, so bouncing ideas off each other is really fun and illuminating. So really, there’s a lot to be excited about! What/who inspires you to create fashion? I live in a perpetual state of nostalgia and I love all things feminine and beautiful. My parents took me to the ballet and theatre as a child; that set my mind racing in the direction of pretty dresses at a very early age. Today, I’m very much inspired by the lingerie and fashion of decades past. I also appreciate intensely modern, architectural design. The dichotomy of old and new is an important one to me, and I feel inspired anytime it’s used in art or design. If you could dress only one person, alive or dead, who would it be? Oh my, this is a hard question to answer. There are so many people I’d love to dress in my lingerie, but my current fashion crush is Jane Aldridge from Sea of Shoes. Her life seems like a beautiful daydream - her aesthetic is femme, luxe and adventurous. It doesn’t hurt that’s she’s also totally gorgeous! Zippers or buttons? Buttons for beauty. Zippers for convenience. So, buttons. For more information visit honeycoolerhandmade.com
“I live in a perpetual state of nostalgia and I love all things feminine and beautiful.”
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Dahae Kim of ADIKTION (/əˈdikSHən/) by dahae.
What excites you most about the Fashion Incubator program? Learning things that I didn’t learn from school about the fashion business/ industry, by experienced professional directors and other experts. What/who inspires you to create fashion? I draw inspiration from contemporary sounds, music, the dark side of life, and psychotic concepts, and create an alchemical interpretation of modern life. What dreams do you have for your brand? Becoming a global brand eventually and to see more menswear in ADIKTION. We gotta dream big to achieve the milestones in life. Who is your customer? Men who are confident about themselves and their life. Men who know what they want and don’t care about other’s judgments. Men who are driven with their every day life. Age and occupation don’t matter. It is all about their mentality. Do you have a formal education in fashion or are you self-taught? I graduated Academy of Art University in 2009 with BFA Menswear Fashion. If you could dress only one person, alive or dead, who would it be? The hottest male gunshot murder victim in history. I will put him in fine white suit of ADIKTION so when he dies, his blood will splash beautifully on the white suit creating epic textiles. He will be back in fashion history with his beautiful and unexpected creation. Or can I create an alien? Zippers or buttons? Zippers. For more information visit a-diktion.com
“We gotta dream big to achieve the milestones in life.”
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PHILADELPHIA FASHION INCUBATOR Elissa Bloom is the Executive Director of PFI, and with her brings 18 years of corporate and entrepreneurial experience in the world of fashion. Working for corporate fashion giants, teaching fashion entrepreneurship courses and managing her own company, Elissa brings a wealth of knowledge of a fashion business from all angles. Being the ED from the start of the initiative in 2011, Elissa has seen what the incubator can contribute to the fashion community in a city. She tells us, “The Fashion Incubator is helping to rebuild the once vibrant fashion sector - giving designers a solid foundation to build sustainable and scalable companies that they want to keep in Philadelphia.” Wanting to know more about the fashion scene there, we asked Ms. Bloom to describe it, “There is so much talent in Philadelphia being home to 4 major fashion design schools (Drexel, Moore College, Philadelphia University and Art Institute) so a lot of creativity in the city...” PFI is the perfect place for fledgling Philadelphian designers to learn how they can contribute to the industry in their city. An opportunity of a lifetime, these lucky six designers are/will be driven… to succeed!
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Gabrielle Mandel of Supra Endura
What excites you most about the Fashion Incubator program? Getting to meet and learn from so many industry professionals who are very supportive and excited about my journey as a designer What are you hoping to learn this year? I want to learn more about business and how to create a sustainable business model that is unique as my brand. I really want to work with great boutiques I believe in making clothes that make my customer feel like they own something special. What/who inspires you to create fashion? I find inspiration everywhere: films, music, art. I really get inspired by other creative people and learning about their story. I really like the work of filmmaker Shane Carruth, and am also very inspired by the multi-faceted artist Miranda July. Reading about the clothing designer’s Rachel Comey’s fashion career was very inspiring, she stuck it out even when it was bleak. Who is your customer? When designing I always try and work a ‘poetic- ness’ into the clothing. My customer is like this. She is aware of trends but she also has her own style and loves to reinterpret fashion ideas. When dressing she is always the slightly quirky leading lady in the film of her life. She is also a tea drinker, loves to read and knows the best out-of-the-way boutiques. Do you have a formal education in fashion or are you self-taught? Yes, I studied fashion design at Syracuse University. If you could dress only one person, alive or dead, who would it be? Sofia Coppola Zippers or buttons? Hmmmm… Zippers? For more information visit supraendura.com
“When dressing she is always the slightly quirky leading lady in the film of her life.”
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Jovan O’Connor
What excites you most about the Fashion Incubator program? There are so many exciting things about the Philadelphia Fashion Incubator that it’s hard to pick one!! But since I have to choose, I would say the business knowledge we are attaining from all the workshops and interactions with people who have already run successful businesses in the fashion industry. What are you hoping to learn this year? I am hoping to learn what it takes to secure investors. I’ve already learned that a successful business is one with the capital to operate comfortably and yield some profit. Since I have already learned the fundamentals of design, hopefully my line will attract an investor who is just as interested in exposing my designs to a larger audience as I am. What/who inspires you to create fashion? My customers inspire me to create fashion!! With every garment I design, I am envisioning who would wear it, what they are doing while they are wearing it, when it would be the perfect thing to wear, where my customer would be seen in my design, why they would choose my design over others, and ultimately, how my customers feel when they are wearing my design. The ultimate goal is for them to feel fabulous, of course!! Do you have a formal education in fashion or are you self-taught? I studied fashion design at Philadelphia University. I also studied a semester abroad at the American University of Rome. If you could dress only one person, alive or dead, who would it be? I thought it was great achievement to have dressed Philadelphia’s own Patti LaBelle, but if I could choose another, it would be Jacqueline Kennedy. She was such a style icon in her day, and her look is still referenced today. Being the designer associated with creating her style is certainly an achievement of a lifetime. Zippers or buttons? Can I choose snaps? For more information visit jovanoconnor.com
“My customers inspire me to create fashion!! With every garment I design, I am envisioning who would wear it…”
Rebecca Imperiano Lucena
of Rebeca Imperiano
What/who inspires you to create fashion? I am inspired by architecture, focusing on the deconstructivism movement, which is characterized by fragmentation as well as by the interest in dislocating elements of a construction. I translated the essence of these principles to fashion using asymmetry and also worked in parallel with geometric and organic shapes. The idea is to give a dynamic force to the fabric and use forms that were never seen before respecting the shape of the female body. Who is your customer? My customer is a sophisticated cosmopolitan woman who has an appreciation for art and design. She is a creative professional and could be working as an architect or artist, as well as a lawyer or a business person who is keen on escaping the imposed formality of her work attire. She travels for business and for pleasure, appreciates different cultures and has a balanced and healthy lifestyle. What dreams do you have for your brand? The dream I have for my brand consists of three goals. My first goal is to make my brand into a business in one year. The second goal is to consolidate the position of my brand in the domestic market in three years. And my third goal is to roll out my brand internationally after four or five years. Do you have a formal education in fashion or are you self-taught? Yes, I have a Masters degree in Fashion Design at Drexel University. I also hold a Bachelors degree in Architecture and Urbanism in Brazil. My mother is also a fashion designer and entrepreneur, so I have been around clothing construction and the fashion design business from an early age. If you could dress only one person, alive or dead, who would it be? Rooney Mara For more information visit rebecaimperiano.com
“The idea is to give a dynamic force to the fabric and use forms that were never seen before…”
Sherrill Mosee of Minkee Blue What excites you most about the Fashion Incubator program? What excites me most about the incubator, is the opportunity it provides to connect with industry leaders for guidance, support and networking. What are you hoping to learn this year? With what I’ve experienced so far as a DIR, I am certain I will have gained the knowledge needed to become a sustainable and successful business. What/who inspires you to create fashion? I created MinkeeBlue Baby and MinkeeBlue Travel handbags to solve a problem. I have a degree in engineering, so I’m a problem solver. I create with purpose. My handbags eliminate the need for women to carry multiple bags. What dreams do you have for your brand? I’d like my brand to be synonymous with functionality and versatility. When women purchase a MinkeeBlue Baby or MinkeeBlue Travel handbag they will know they are getting a fashion handbag that is functional and will help them to better organize the items they need for the day. Who is your customer? MinkeeBlue is a lifestyle brand for any woman who desires to carry all her items needed for the day in only one handbag. Do you have a formal education in fashion or are you self-taught? I do not have a formal education in fashion. I have a degree in engineering. I use these skills in developing MinkeeBlue. If you could dress only one person, alive or dead, who would it be? I would love to put a MinkeeBlue handbag on the arms of every woman who carries at least two bags a day—their purse and laptop bag; purse and lunch bag; purse and diaper bag. Who is your favorite designer (besides yourself)? Tory Burch For more information visit minkeeblue.com
“I create with purpose.”
Victoria Wright What excites you most about the Fashion Incubator program? What’s most exciting about this program is being able to go though this process of beginning a new fashion business with five other amazing designers who all share the struggles, obstacles, and rewards of pursuing our dreams. It’s been really exciting to see how we have formed this camaraderie with each other, and to know that we are not alone. What are you hoping to learn this year? I’m really hoping to learn more about manufacturing, and production through this program. In addition, I hope to gain and hone the business skills necessary to balance my creativity. What/who inspires you to create fashion? My customers inspire me to create fashion. Being able to create beautiful fashions that express my point of view all while bringing happiness and confidence to my customers is the driving force that keeps me passionate about this industry. Who is your customer? My customer is the kind of girl who likes to be the belle of the ball without looking like she tried very hard. She is feminine, and whimsical, but has a high level of sophistication. She has a many events to attend from cocktail parties to gallery openings and needs a variety of mix and match cocktail dresses and separates that could take her from work to play. If you could dress only one person, alive or dead, who would it be? Audrey Hepburn without a doubt! Who is your favorite designer (besides yourself)? Rebecca Taylor, I had the pleasure of interning with her while I was still in school and I really identified with her aesthetic, was inspired by her vision and her journey. She is also a really cool and amazing person to meet! Zippers or buttons? Do I have to choose? For more information visit victoriawrightdesigns.com
“My customer is the kind of girl who likes to be the belle of the ball without looking like she tried very hard.” INSPIRARE.com
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Terese Brown of Terese Sydonna What excites you most about the Fashion Incubator program? I am most excited about meeting retailers and getting vital feedback on my products through the retail critiques hosted by the Philadelphia Fashion Incubator. What are you hoping to learn this year? This year, I would like to learn more about my target customer, and create pricing strategies to reach a larger audience. What dreams do you have for your brand? I dream of Terese Sydonna being carried by retailers throughout the world. I plan to create a lifestyle brand that will be inclusive of womenswear, menswear, shoes, handbags, accessories and home goods. Who is your customer? The Terese Sydonna customer is a modern woman who wants to be comfortably chic while managing her busy lifestyle. If you could dress only one person, alive or dead, who would it be? If I could dress one person she would be Grace Jones. I love the androgyny of her features and the diverse clothing that she has worn throughout her life. Grace Jones is timeless, and so too are the designs in the Terese Sydonna line. The Terese Sydonna brand celebrates women who dare to be different and command attention. Zippers or buttons? Zippers! I love incorporating subtle details into my designs. There is something sexy and mysterious about the ability to hide or expose a zipper in a garment that a button could never achieve. For more information visit teresesydonna.com
“I am inspired by the possibility of creating something fresh and new that will add value to the lives of my customers.”
CHICAGO FASHION INCUBATOR When asked about the local fashion scene, Andrea Reynders, the Design Director of Chicago Fashion Incubator (CFI) told us, “Chicago has a wealth of talented designers and clients to support their talents. We have a strength in the independent and individual shops and boutiques as well as a thriving wholesale sector. We are planning a more centralized area for production in the city for emerging designers and small quantity production. I would say the Chicago fashion scene is alive and well!” The Windy City’s incubator was created under a slightly different model: there is a Design Director that mentors each designer in the creative development side, and there is also a Director of Business Education who specifically guides them on the formation and daily happenings of a business. Bringing in new artists can be incredibly exciting and this year Andrea notes, “The very best thing about the Incubator is the wealth of talent that fills the space and energizes the collections that are being created. I love the independent thinking, the process of development each person is going through and the value that the CFI can contribute to each of their careers.”
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Agnes Hamerlik of Hamerlik, INC What excites you most about the Fashion Incubator program? I would have to say that 2013 was a personal breakout year for me. I believe that CFI was able to open doors and present opportunities that I wouldn’t have had access to without being part of the program. I’m a part of the extended Chicago Fashion Incubator program. The help received from CFI’s mentors and friends is priceless. It’s about what kind of relationship you create on the way of your journey and how much you’re enjoying the process. And I love it every single day. What are you hoping to learn this year? The CFI has been a wonderful experience so far; I’m not only a designer/artist anymore, I’m a business owner and creative director of my company. What/who inspires you to create fashion? The creativity/inspiration in my work comes from my education in literature, art and design and my exploration of clothing based in history and technique. I love combining unusual and unorthodox materials with traditional fabrication for dramatic results. What dreams do you have for your brand? To provide the product I’m proud of. I’m tired living my life surrounded by disposable fashion. The era of ugliness is over, for sure it’s over for me. I’m committed to making my customer feel unique, confident, and independent producing a high end quality product that they will have in their private collections. Who is your customer? Anyone who gives a damn; anyone who cares about making a difference in the world of fashion. If you could dress only one person, alive or dead, who would it be? Tilda Swinton, she is quite not from this world, or Bjork. For more information visit agneshamerlik.com
“Your work should speak louder than words.”
Alyssa Kahle
of Alyssa Kristin
What are you hoping to learn this year? As a start-up entrepreneur, I am currently the COE (“Chief of Everything”): designer, marketer, sales rep, website developer, accountant, blogger, buyer, etc. As such, I am SO excited to learn how to effectively prioritize, delegate, outsource and manage all these tasks through the numerous business development workshops/seminars/ meetings that are scheduled over the next year. What/who inspires you to create fashion? I am inspired to provide the modern day bride with gowns that are refreshingly chic yet timeless, dramatic yet understated. As someone who recently underwent the dress hunt for “the one” and ended up having to create my dream dress, I became inspire to offer brides balanced designs mixing soft textures, pink/grey hues and an abundance of tulle, with plunging necklines, open backs and figure-hugging silhouettes. Do you have a formal education in fashion or are you self-taught? Self-taught. I am a CPA by training; after designing my own wedding gown I decided to trade-in financials for fabric and start my own bridal label. If you could dress only one person, alive or dead, who would it be? There are far too many lovely ladies we would love to dress – we will say newly engaged Mila Kunis would look great in one of our wedding gowns customized to fit her growing bump! Zippers or buttons? This season, zippers – delivers a clean line and slim silhouette. Who is your favorite designer (besides yourself)? Coco Chanel – she brought us the little black dress, the Chanel suit and Chanel No.5 – what is not to love? Moreover, I admire that she challenged the norms and freed women of stiff corsets and over embellishments, essentially revolutionizing woman’s wear. Likewise, I design to help brides escape “fluff and frill” and embrace their personality through a refreshingly chic yet understated wedding gown. For more information visit AlyssaKristin.com
“I design to help brides escape ‘fluff and frill’ and embrace their personality through a refreshingly chic yet understated wedding gown.”
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Grace Lee-Lim of Lee-Lim What excites you most about the Fashion Incubator program? The unique combination of business and design mentorship, along with the great studio and office spaces provided for the next two years. Starting a business for the very first time can be extremely daunting, and the incubator program provides a certain level of guidance and teamwork that helps us young designers launch our businesses with a strong foundation. What/who inspires you to create fashion? Inspiration, for me, comes from some of the most random places, most often when I’m not searching for it. I can be listening to a song that I’ve heard twenty times and somehow on the twenty first time, I’ll hear a lyric that I’ve never given attention to and it’ll speak to me and stay embedded in my head until I do something with it. Often times I’ll just see details in buildings, textiles, and simple things that other people wear or say that stand out to me, and I document it to incorporate into my designs later. I find it fascinating that something like a light fixture that I see in passing can later play its imagery into an embellishment or drape in a garment that I design. What dreams do you have for your brand? To provide an experience and bring happiness to my customer through the medium of bridal gowns. I truly want to dress and style people in a way that makes them feel their absolute best. Do you have a formal education in fashion or are you self-taught? Yes- I have a BFA in fashion design from the School of the Art Institute of Chicago. If you could dress only one person, alive or dead, who would it be? My husband’s late grandmother, whom I’ve never met - she was a graceful, strong, elegant woman who escaped to Korea with 4 children after her husband was executed. Zippers or buttons? Buttons, even if they’re decoratively sewn next to a zipper. For more information visit lee-lim.com
“Inspiration, for me, comes from some of the most random places, most often when I’m not searching for it.”
Lagilelei Nadeau of LAGI NADEAU What excites you most about the Fashion Incubator program? As an emerging designer it has been wonderful to have guidance from industry experts, the camaraderie amongst fellow designers, opportunities for exposure, and the beautiful workspace. Just by being at the Incubator I am immediately inspired, I am constantly learning and growing as a person and as a designer. I’m very excited to be participating in the two year program and look forward to growing and developing my company further over the next year. What/who inspires you to create fashion? I am constantly inspired by the women who wear my clothes and keep her in mind at all times when I design. I tend to focus on inspiration that I find in art, architecture and travel to help shape the color palette and silhouettes of the season. There is beauty in everything and I think that my surroundings and the people that I meet always factor into the season that I am working on. What dreams do you have for your brand? I see it growing into a full lifestyle brand offering clothes, shoes, handbags, and jewelry. Staying in Chicago is important to me and I envision growing my design team along with an in house sample room where I can have designs cut and sewn in our workspace. Do you have a formal education in fashion or are you self-taught? I graduated with from Michigan State University and the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York for fashion design. After college, I worked in the fashion industry in New York as an assistant designer at TAHARI and AMMARA before launching my label. If you could dress only one person, alive or dead, who would it be? Diana Vreeland; she had such a strong point of view and was very influential in fashion. For more information visit laginadeau.com
“Just by being at the Incubator I am immediately inspired, I am constantly learning and growing as a person and as a designer.”
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Olivia Hwang
of Olivia Hwang Bridal
What excites you most about the Fashion Incubator program? Whenever I walk into the Chicago Fashion Incubator, I just feel so confident and grateful, not because I am confident about the business plans and my own bridal collection, but because of all of the support I get from Macy’s, from our mentors, my fellow designers in residence, and supporters like you. What are you hoping to learn this year? I am hoping to really strategize my business plans and my bridal collections and make it accessible for real brides who are looking for custom bridal gowns. What/who inspires you to create fashion? Love. Lovers. Love songs. Who is your customer? Real brides. I would like to cater customized bridal gowns to brides in Chicago area, and expand my brand to bridal boutiques in other cities as well. Do you have a formal education in fashion or are you self-taught? I majored in fashion design at the School of Art Institute of Chicago then further refined the technical knowledge of bridal gown constructions and finishing techniques at the Bonuru Professional Wedding Dress Academy in Seoul, Korea. If you could dress only one person, alive or dead, who would it be? I would love to dress Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge. It is not that I want her to divorce the Prince and get married again. Don’t get me wrong! I just think that she is a beautiful intelligent woman living in the same era as all of the other women in the world, including myself, but lives with a huge responsibilities and respect. Zippers or buttons? BUTTONS, especially satin covered buttons on bridal gowns. For more information visit oliviahwang.com
“My dream I have for my brand is that it becomes a family tradition to pass down to next generations.”
Shelby Steiner What excites you most about the Fashion Incubator program? The Fashion Incubator has been pivotal for launching our careers within the apparel industry. It is great to have the workspace and to be surrounded by other creatives. The environment itself creates an empowering atmosphere and encourages us all to work harder. What are you hoping to learn this year? Looking to balance my life and to find the desired outlets for my niche within the marketplace. What/who inspires you to create fashion? Literally everything. I try to combine everything I see, hear, and read into an aesthetically pleasing, functional garment. Influenced by a variety of different subject matters including: menswear, Buddhism, Bob Dylan, architecture, and minimalism. What dreams do you have for your brand? You will find out in the near future. Who is your customer? She is an intelligent, casual yet elevated, and thoughtful being. She is a wanderer, a risk taker, and a free spirit. She is seeking knowledge, living in the moment, and projecting her greatest hopes and desires into the universe. Do you have a formal education in fashion or are you self-taught? I studied Interdisciplinary Arts at Columbia College Chicago focusing on fashion design and business. If you could dress only one person, alive or dead, who would it be? Susie Bubble . Zippers or buttons? Buttons. Who is your favorite designer (besides yourself)? Junya Watanabe For more information visit shelbysteiner.com
“The environment itself creates an empowering atmosphere and encourages us all to work harder.”
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FEATURE EDITORIAL
A DARK SPORT Photographed by Jen McGowan Produced by Adrienne Glenn Model: Kaitlyn of Stars Model Management Hair and Makeup: Jaridann Jamie and Ali Copani Stylist: Michelle Rivet Photography Asst: Evelyn Choi Jewelry by sharya.com
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BEHIND THE SCENES
Fun and Games in the Studio This issue we sported our feature editorial style with designer Sounthavong, who you definitely HAVE to add to this season’s wardrobe. Stylist, photographers and models let us go behind the scenes and show you what happens around the studio, and in the allleyway behind the studio!
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TRENDS
SPRING
FORWARD This season get in touch with your natural side and spring forth while wearing the most spectacular new trends in the world of fashion.
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NATURE Dries Van Noten
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THE DIGITAL AGE Christopher Kane
NEO GEO Dries Van Noten
TEA LENGTH SKIRTS Proenza Schouler
COLARLESS COATS Valentino
WIDE LEG TROUSERS Chloe
ARE YOU ON THE LIST? What does every fashionista/o dream of? Walking up to any and every event and glancing down to see his/her name prominently displayed at the top of the list, with a front row seat reserved. Sadly, most of us aren’t so lucky. INSPIRARE is doing the next best thing for you! Bringing you the view from the front row seat of the hottest events and fashion shows, so you can know EXACTLY what is happening on the forefront of fashion!
CAMELIA SKIKOS - LA FASHION WEEK
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SACRAMENTO FASHION WEEK 2014
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Photos by Nicolas Ardelean
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VASILY VEIN FASHION SHOW San Francisco, CA
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Photosw by Nicolas Ardelean
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GUEST EDITORIAL
SPRING BOARDWALKING Photographed by Aleesha Woodson Photography Assistant: Austen Krater Model: Kimberly Flink of JE Model Agency Wardrobe Stylist: Kaitlyn Vitug Wardrobe Assistant: Laynie Rouch
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Bandeau - Nordstroms; Floral Skirt - Nordstroms
Green Sequin Top - ZARA; White and Black Necklace - Nordstoms; Skirt - Nordstroms; Sunglasses - Prada; Shoes - Nordstroms
Floral Shirt - Nordstroms; Aqua Skirt - Nordstroms; Necklace - Nordstroms; Purse - ZARA; Sunglasses - Miu Miu; Shoes - Nordstroms
Red Dress - ZARA; Necklace - Nordstoms; Shoes - Nordstroms
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Yellow Coat - ZARA; Shorts - Diane Von Furstenburg; Sunglasses - Stylist Owned
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Aqua Vest - Nordstroms; Skirt - Wasteland; Shoes - Nordstroms; Sunglasses - Celine
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INSPIRARELAND
Jenny Gering: Costuming Communists since 2013 Written by Christine Mathias
When one refers to the “look” of a thing— namely a movie, or a TV show--there is, arguably, a hierarchy of responsibility. The actor gives bodily presence. The director, a vision. The costume designer literally gives the characters their “look.” She not only has to picture every character down to the spats, but she has to plan for stunts, dig up turtlenecks in springtime and corral a department, all while looking at actors naked. Jenny Gering is a costume designer in essentially every medium you can think of. Film: she just worked with Taylor Lautner in Tracers, due in August. Commercials. Music videos. And since she’s so well-rounded, Ms. Gering now has a killer TV show on her resume. Literally killer, there’s a lot of killing. It’s the FX Network’s The Americans, a Cold War espionage drama featuring two Russian spies INSPIRARE.com
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THE AMERICANS - Pictured: Keidrich Sellati as Henry Jennings, Keri Russell as Elizabeth Jennings -- CR: Craig Blankenhorn/FX. Copyright 2014, FX Networks. All rights reserved.
living a normal apple-pie life in suburban Virginia in the early 1980’s. With disguises and dead drops and fake marriages. “All my agent said is it’s about Russian spy cells in 1981,” Gering said in a phone conversation from the set of the David Schwimmer pilot at ABC. “I said ‘I’ve got to do it.’ That period, it’s so fresh in my memory. I was very into fashion at the time, getting into fashion magazines…I knew that was my job.” Part of Gering’s enthusiasm about her work comes from the challenge of working in the past and getting the details exactly right. “We look up the month and the
year and get to know those facts so there are no mistakes,” Her love of research is evident when she talks about her vision for the characters on the show. “It’s not what people think. Horrible trends, coming to life, but 1981 looks like 1978 in suburban Virginia. It doesn’t look like mid-‘80’s MTV. It’s beautiful textiles, women were dressing in menswear and doing it really well. I was attracted to that.” And since the show spans decades and continents, sometimes in the same flashback, there is a lot of fun to be had for a costume designer. “When I research for a job, if it’s the location, or the
THE AMERICANS - Pictured: Keri Russell as Elizabeth Jennings -- CR: Craig Blankenhorn/FX. Copyright 2014, FX Networks. All rights reserved.
period, or the political climate, I’ll immerse myself in it, to help myself get into the characters heads. It’s been so much fun, the flashbacks in Russia, all the military uniforms, it’s research heavy and I really love that. And of course the disguises. Every episode is challenging in its own way.” There is a long line of costume designers who do amazing period work, and Gering is a big fan of Theadora Van Runkle, she of the pencil skirts and fashionable hats in 1967’s Bonnie and Clyde. “They reinterpreted an
era and made it very relevant to a contemporary setting. Even though it takes place in the ‘30’s, it started a huge fashion trend. It’s how she (Van Runkle) interpreted it in the late ‘60’s, she drew a lot of comparisons between the two decades.” As for current designers, Gering made mention of Emmy winner Ellen Mirojnick, who just took home a statue for her work on the HBO Liberace miniseries Behind the Candelabra. “When she did Fatal Attraction I was blown away by Ann Archer’s wardrobe, it felt so real, coming from New York and being familiar
with that world. I had a chance to work with her and I told her that. She gives a story a sense of place and time but also makes her actors look beautiful, to the point where you just want to watch them. Plus she’s supportive and generous with her time.” Gering speaks about designing like it’s what keeps her breathing. Given a choice to go anywhere and any-when just for the shopping, Gering chooses London and Rome in the early1970’s. “I love the whole vibe of freedom, hippie chic, cultural revolution, women feeling their power, being able to explore different genres, and menswear mixed with bohemian influences.” And she’s got plenty of goals yet to reach. When asked about a dream project, Gering names people. “Jessica Lange, Terrence Malick, Stephen Freers…their ability to make you feel something why we’re all in this business. You’re thinking about the characters, it makes you think about the
“It’s beautiful textiles, women were dressing in menswear and doing it really well. I was attracted to that.”
THE AMERICANS -Pictured: Keidrich Sellati as Henry Jennings, Matthew Rhys as Philip Jennings -- CR: Craig Blankenhorn/FX. Copyright 2014, FX Networks. All rights reserved.
THE AMERICANS - Pictured: Keri Russell as Elizabeth Jennings, Matthew Rhys as Philip Jennings -- CR: Patrick Harbron/FX. Copyright 2014, FX Networks. All rights reserved.
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Pictured: Keri Russell as Elizabeth Jennings, Margo Martindale as Claudia -- CR: Patrick Harbron/FX. Copyright 2014, FX Networks. All rights reserved.
visuals for weeks after you’ve seen it. I want to work with people who are collaborative – it feels like you go through a mini-war together, and just to get to the other side, it’s so fascinating.” And TV shows are nothing if not a gauntlet. While movies shoot for a couple of months after extensive pre-production, television shows are more intensive. “The challenge is essentially shooting a movie for six months. We started season one of The Americans in January, and I thought I would be in the hospital by April. Reshoots (of the last episode) and prepping (the next one) and shooting all at once.” INSPIRARE.com
Costume designing seems like one of the most obvious jobs in film and television. With rare exceptions, actors are not performing naked, so it’s obvious that someone has to choose the clothes or design the clothes and then fit the clothes and make the actors look like they really are Abraham Lincoln or a cybernetic killer from the future. Strange, then, that the general public seems to have no idea what Jenny Gering really does. “What shocks me is when people find out what I do, they ask if I get to read the scripts. They think we’re glorified stylists. On The Americans, I have a core crew 138
of 15 people every day to make that happen. It can get very technical, and it’s certainly not a one-person job. It takes years to become good at it. And it’s an integral part of getting the actor to figure out who the character is. I really love film and TV. It’s about the minutiae, the details. I like to tell stories with the things that are not as obvious, but tell you something about the person.” If there is one nugget of wisdom Jenny Gering wants to impart about her love of designing, and what kids coming up in the industry should know, it’s that they should “try and remember what it is that you love, what it is that attracted you to this. You don’t have to be a master of everything, you have to be a master of what you believe in. Maintain your integrity.”
Pictured: Noah Emmerich as Stan Beeman -- CR: Craig Blankenhorn/FX Copyright 2014, FX Networks. All rights reserved.
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RISING STAR
BALAGANS – Creative Chaos and Breaking the Rules! Written by Karen Luc What is Haute Couture if you can have Denim Couture? Prepare yourself for upcoming creative chaos from Germany, which is about to spread out into the boundless world of fashion! “Passion for Denim, love for handicraft, courage to experiment and delight in storytelling.” This is exactly what BALAGANS, the name of these rising stars, stands for. In 2011 the designer duo Tanja Schmidt and Philip Rudzinski founded their own project, BALAGANS, while studying at the University of Applied Sciences and Arts Hanover. With their final menswear collection “Alles geht in die Hose” which is an idiom and means “Everything turns out to be a flop” they won the “Modepreis Hannover”, a fashion award of the University for fashion design Graduates. INSPIRARE.com
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BALAGANS recently put on a stunning show with street musicians as models, walking very slowly to Balkan music down the catwalk, looking like out of this work, majestic creature in their exceptional and experimental denim outfits! Whether a jacket in the shape of an accordion, a patchwork jumpsuit looking like a brick wall or a coat that close up with a diaper shorts – everything was made out of the royal blue, robust jeans material. The audience was taken in a whole new world of never seen denim experiments and wearable creations, with a sense of humor. This was just the beginning of a vibrant career and a new Denim Fashion Age! After winning several prizes in East Europe, they got the chance to show their fashion at the Mercedes 141
Benz Fashion Week in Berlin, January 2014. There they showed an extended collection with men and womenswear mixing together for the first time. We spoke to Philip, the current representative, to find out more about why BALAGANS is such a quickly rising star: Tell us about yourself and what drew you to fashion. I am Philip Rudzinski, 26, Denim-Designer and craftsman from Hanover in Germany. As a son of Polish emigrants I was born and raised in Germany. I always perceive fashion as uncomfortable and boring. That’s why I revised my own clothes without the real know-how, but with an inventive mind. At 16, I began an apprenticeship as a fashion designer assistant before I finally studied fashion design at the University of Applied Sciences and Arts in Hanover. My daily life after my study still looks like a creative chaos! Next to freelance projects and guest lectures I put my whole energy in
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my BALAGANS Project with different denim experiments. How did it all begin? What does BALAGANS mean? Three years ago, Tanja and I founded the Denim-Couture Project BALAGANS. We worked together in a third year project for the first time. Our different visions and standards took us to unpredictable and exciting results. So we decided to do our Bachelor and Master of Arts together. Our team cooperation just needed a name to be recognized. BALAGANS was born! BALAGANS is a term of the Polish and Russian language, which means “chaos.” A name that represents our East European roots. Tanja is originally from Russia and my ancestors are from Poland. What are the benefits and challenges of working together as a designer duo? Our cooperation leads to a whole new strategythe creative chaos. Our ideas come together in the design development. To sort out the “chaos”
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we discuss and try out the design concept right down to the last detail. This is always very timeconsuming and energy-intensive. In exchange we detect the love for detail in every completed design. Step-by-step and stich-by-stich is how a BALAGANS collection progresses. We consider ourselves designers and artisans at the same time. We design, sew and refine our jeans. The denim design consists of 3 stages, the design, the handicraft and the refinement. The benefit is that we can guarantee a high quality garment considering all demands starting from the first idea to the finished garment. Why do you specialize in denim? Why does it fascinate you? The denim technology evolves everyday and allows infinite possibilities to give the design it’s own character and to tell stories by experimenting with the denim. The procedure of denim is very distinctive. The whole design process needs to be well ordered in the beginning. The material shrinks in the washing whereby the proportions change. So we need to try out a lot in the pattern and fitting development as well as in the detail solution. The basis of our work is always the denim. But we also combine a few designs with other materials Where does your inspiration come from? I am inspired by the streets, art, music and survival artists. Courageous personalities as Malcom McLaren and Christopher Nemeth are role models for me.
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What are your most meaningful senses of achievement? Which prizes have you won? I would describe our teamwork as our biggest success and our first international cooperation, which often seems to be a complete flop (that explains the title for our collection). Thankfully everything turns out good and we’ve been invited to Istanbul where we could wash our final BA-collection. It was a full success! One of a lot of other incredible moment was the chance to show our collection at the Mados Infekcija Fashion Festival in Vilnius, Lithuania when we got the Mados Injekcija Award 2013. It was a really great network with a lot of interesting people and a very inspiring city. Besides that award and the “Modepreis Hannover 2012”, we won the European Fashion Award at FASH 2013 and the Baltic Fashion Award 2013, all first prizes. We also got an award of the “Wilhelm Lorch-Stiftung”. Which difficulties have you had to face? The financial embarrassments are challenging. But if you are creative there is always a way! Over time we build up our own community. In cooperation with artists and street musicians, we tried to build up creative projects without budget… true to the motto “Art supports Art.” To learn more about BALAGANS visit balagans.de
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Editorial
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Little Sisters
Photographed by Jessica Sidenros Styling: Christina Van Zon of nude-agency.de Make-up/Hair: Josephin Martens with Optix Agency; Kathi Armleder; Mirjam Drabiniok Models: Polly Jenkinson of Indeed; Alicia Bublitz of Indeed; and Ava of Izaio
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