Narratives of Ladakh: Documenting the tangible and intangible aspects by Intersection Foundation

Narratives of Laadakh Documenting the tangible and intangible aspects

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Helene Thebault | Edoardo Ferrari |

Tampi | Rishabh Wadhwa | Jahnavi

Urmimala Nag| Mudita Pasari | Farzan

Acharya | Jasma Vekaria | Vatsal Patel

Dalal | Tanvi Patil | Nikita Goyal | Rohit

| Kashvi Vora | Zubin patel | Jugal Naik

Dhawle | Ajita Deodhar | Lavina Pothen

| Vivek Shah | Smit Anand | Harsh

| Bhargav Padhiyar | Nayanatara

Barot | APoojan Shah | Pooja Nagaraj | Divyarajsinh Rana

Participants 4

On site collaborators Debashish Borah Muzzammil Hussain Munshi Ajaz Hussain Munshi Bhanupratap Sharma Vivek Sheth Iliyaz Ansari

Editorial team Authors

Bhanupratap Sharma Vivek Sheth Editors

Bhanupratap Sharma Ishita Jain Shubhanyu Jain Student Editoral Team

Pooja Nagaraj - 3rd year Vatsal Patel - 3rd year Kashvi Vora - 4th year

Acknowledgements

Objective of the workshop Narratives of Ladakh, a collaborative summer programme hosted jointly by Indus university, INTACH Ladakh Chapter and Central Asian Museum, Kargil, was a collaboration of architects, conservationists, a cartographer and graphic designers, both students and professionals. It aimed towards studying the architecture, understanding the built legacy of the mountain people and inspire a study of Islamic art, crafts and architecture beyond the plains of mainland India. The study involved documenting the tangible and intangible aspects of the region that acted as a generator for the existing spatial configuration responsible for the Kargil town. The study focused on the influence of climate, material, and confluence of culture on architecture and the fabric of the old town Kargil to re-engage with Kargil, understand forces that acted in ancient time in shaping of a trade town and to develop a multidisciplinary documentation and collaborative understanding.

Preface Narratives of Ladakh, a summer programme hosted jointly hosted by Indus university, INTACH Ladakh Chapter and Central Asian Museum, Kargil, aimed towards studying the architecture, understanding the built legacy of the mountain people and inspire a study of Islamic art, crafts and architecture beyond the plains of mainland India. It aimed towards documenting the tangible and intangible aspects that acted as a generator for the existing spatial configuration responsible for the Kargil town. The study focused on the influence of climate, material, and confluence of culture on architecture and the fabric of the old town Kargil. It was a collaborative workshop between architects, conservationist, cartographers and graphic designer, both students and professionals. The objective was to re-engage with Kargil, understand forces that acted in ancient time in shaping of a trade town on the confluence of silk routes and to develop a multidisciplinary project and collaborative understanding.

Kargil 12

Hundarman 40

Framing the forgotten

At Kargil, the intervention happenend to study the intangible aspects that shaped the trade town while Silk Route operated in its full glory. At the same time, the transformation of the town due to the end of Silk Route, Kargil becoming a war zone and a shift in the needs to people, were noted. The method of reresentation is superimposition of narratives on facts.

Kargil 12

Kargil as “a place to stay” has enjoyed a rich and long history of trade and intermingling of communities, and as such, is of immense value in terms of its cultural and built heritage. Kargil, known originally as “Khar-Gil,” literally means “a place to stay.” The town was an integral part of the Silk Route. Due to its strategic position apropos the surrounding towns of Zanskar, Leh, traders would stop-by, stay for weeks and trade goods with each other here. In the summer of 2015, a group of young learners travelled to the place with an objective to capture that cultural heritage. They had only heard of the Silk Route 14

but were yet to be introduced to the stories. Here, they met Ajaz Hussain Munshi who owns the Central Asian Museum and is also trying to further tourism in and around Kargil. He recalls the trade town of Kargil when the Silk Route flourished. He brings to life the traders who travelled from Ladakh, Kashmir, Zanskar, Skardu to Kargil. Sharing facts about the Silk Route, he recalls and recites a story of an old friend of his. Tariq Ahmed Tibeth-Baqal, a traveller from Bota Kadal, Kashmir, travelled to Kargil every year. He braved the dangerous route via Zozilla Pass to get to Kargil and trade his Pashmina shawls for products from 15

all over the world. In return for his fine Pashmina wool and shawls, he would get items like tea, salt, apricots and even imported products from Germany and Italy like razors, buttons etc. In 1947, with the partition of India into India and Pakistan, the trade routes got severed. Trade suffered gravely and many families were split in the process. Many Sikh and Hindu families had to move out of Kargil to Jammu or other lower parts of the mainland India. These families had to cross snow covered mountainous regions in mid-December, very careful to walk only at night. Unfortunately, they could not go further than Drass, and were stuck for about a month as the snow was deep. They were given shelter by very kind families 18

in Drass, who were later harassed by religious fanatics. In September of 1977, Tariq’s grandson, Nazir Ahmed Tibeth-Baqal crossed the Zozilla Pass to Kargil with fellow travellers. It is a tortuous yet scenic route to take. Passing amidst the snow-capped mountains he entered Kargil, a lively town with people belonging to different communities. He moves along the narrow streets, past the small vendors. He guides his horse on to see his friend, Imtiaz. He greets people he sees on his way, as a mark of respect. Imtiaz was a native to Kargil and belonged to one of the most important and powerful families of the town. Imtiaz and Nazir’s grandfathers were trade friends and this relationship had helped Nazir’s grandfather in securing accommodation in the 19

sarai on his visit every year, despite the huge crowd that poured in from different cities to trade. Nazir recalls all the stories he heard about the town when trade flourished along the Silk Route. The street which was once was the busiest of Kargil is now all pale and comatose. Nazir wonders what might have happened that transformed the place over these years. He hardly finds anything like an extent that it no more bears any resemblance to the place his grandfather described in his stories. He walks along the narrow lane, heading towards a worn out earthen structure with a short wooden door.

On stepping into the sarai, through the door, his feet land at a narrow, sparsely-lit passage leading up to a space wide enough to shelter the horses. The stable was lit by the huge courtyard with a horse dung pit in the centre. He finds out that it hardly has anything like what his grandfather had once told him.

... no more bears any resemblance to the place his grandfather described... 21

Around the pit there were some enclosed spaces where goods carried by the travellers and the fodder for the cattle would have been stored. Towards one end there was a wooden staircase leading up to the first floor. The first floor consisted of rooms where traders would reside, around the courtyard, which opened towards the corridor. The small openings in the room limited the ventilation and helped to keep the room warm during winter. The fireplace in the corner would have served as a hearth. These traders would carry their bedding and as such did not demand well-furnished spaces. The spaces towards one side of the courtyard would have been used to trade goods. 22

Three rooms had extended balconies that opened to the Suru River. The place that saw a variety of people pouring in with their products; the horses neighing and interacting with their kind; the excitement as old friends met up – the place where people would have taken stock of what would they barter and what had to be paid for, a place buzzing with life and trade was lost in between the concrete buildings. Nazir steps into the balcony facing the river. The sound of the gushing water fills his ears and he feels strangely relaxed. He feels the wind blowing across his face as he stares at the bridge connecting the land on either side of the river, recalling a story of traders who camped in tents when sarai had no space for them. 23

Tashir Namgyal Manepah, was coming in from Khalsi, near Leh. He belonged to the Boto community and traded in tea and barley. Tashir Namgyal approached reached Kargil from across the Suru river with his caravan of laden horses and now- tired men. He too had had a long journey and was looking forward to a comfortable stay at the sarai. As he approached the river, his heart sunk. The river was flooded and the only bridge connecting him to his destination was broken. He had heard of a similar incident from travellers a couple of years ago. He was new to the trade and was making the trip only a second time. He decided to let his pony swim across and take support from the tail to swim against a strong current. After 24

toiling for hours and making trips to and fro the banks, he got his people to get the entire load across the river. Finally, they were on the banks of Kargil, with all their belongings. After drying themselves they moved quickly towards the sarai. To their dismay, the sarai had no room to accommodate them. They moved back towards the river, tied their horses to the tree trunk in the shade and went towards another sarai; which was fully occupied too. The caravan often carried their own tents, food, cattle and other supplies along with them. They knew that despite their hospitable attitude, the inhabitants of Kargil would not be able to supply them with food for 25

their entire stay. They would dig the ground and store their cattle there for warmth. The women had carried their pots and pans; a cooking area was set up, with a burning hearth for a home-like feel. The cool breeze blowing across interrupts Nazir’s thoughts. He was standing in the balcony overlooking the river and suddenly notices a familiar silhouette down there. He was delighted to see Imtiaz at the sarai. He carefully climbs down the broken staircase and walks out of the sarai to meet his friend. Their happiness has no bounds. They have met after quite a few years and have lots of stories to exchange. 28

Imtiaz insists to take Nazir around the town. While walking along the old street, Nazir notices a man in his 60s, walk out of an old house. Imtiaz greets Sibtehassan and introduces him to Nazir. Sibtehassan Mah-to-pah was a resident of Balti Bazaar, Kargil. His father had moved to Kargil from Skardu when trade was flourishing in the town. He traded in fresh and dried apricots. Carrying forward the tradition of his father’s trade he would meet travellers from various places and exchange his apricots to obtain salt, tea, barley etc. His family now owned a beautiful three-story house. It was the traditional Balti house built of Stone and mud. Nazir observes the terraces being employed for sitting, drying the apricots and 29

spices, while the ground floor served as the shop and storage. The three traders meet at the Balti bazaar and swap stories, while they exchange goods. Each brings their goods and decides the quantum exchanged or the amount to be paid to one another. Trade was usually done on trust and was a peaceful affair.

Days passed. One day, while they sat on the porch of the house, discussing trade, Nazir noticed Haji Gulam Mohammad Gonpa on the street. He was a Purkhi runner and had set off with a note for Nazir Ahmed. He was passing on a message all the way from Bota Kadal. Nazir Ahmed was the proud father of a daughter and was being asked to come back soon. Nazir’s joy knew no bounds and after having replied through the same runner, went about closing all his trade deals – his new born daughter was waiting for him, as was he to see her.

As soon as he was done, he started packing up his belongings and asked the members of his caravan to prepare for leaving as well. Heavy rain forced his hand, and as eager as he was to leave, he decided to wait for the rain to stop. There also came news of early snow in the higher mountains and the Zozilla Pass being shut till the weather averts. Weeks passed and soon Nazir Ahmed realises that he was stuck in Kargil for the winter. He reluctantly decides to stay back and stop trying to leave.

Sibtehassan gets the news that Nazir Ahmed is staying in Kargil, so offers him a place to stay the winter his home. Sibtehassan’s warmth and earnestness convinces Nazir Ahmed, who gratefully accepts the former’s invitation. He soon moves into the Balti household. It is located towards one of the ends on the old street of Kargil. Lush carpets from Persia covered the floor; beautiful hand-embroidered cushions and bolsters sat on the mattress. He was served traditional butter tea in intricately painted ceramic cups and Nazir soon realised he had developed a flavour for the local drink and cuisine.

He was grateful to the family and would always be on the lookout to help them in small tasks like raking the snow off the roof, or helping shift requirements from the shop to living spaces on the first floor. The second floor had windows larger than those on the lower levels and was used by the family to catch some sun in the winter months. Nazir would keenly observe the lady of the house preserve meat, fruits and vegetables in the now snowy backyard.

He had started to settle in well, when a blacksmith came to stay with the family. The blacksmith would make locks and other containers. He stayed with the family for about a month and did his work, while his food and lodging was taken care of. He had been to so many places and lived with so many families, that he had many stories to tell. He would talk about the Yarkhandis, the Mogols and Zanskaris. He would sit by the candle-light at night and tell tales while the women knit next to him. Soon the winter festivities began in Kargil where communities would celebrate the decline of biting winter in January. They would invite all members of the family and extended family for a feast. The celebration 36

would go on, people would visit each other and the married women would stay at their maternal homes for some weeks. Nazir Ahmed started enjoying his stay as he met many people, intermingled with the Shias, the Sikhs, the Hindus and the Buddhists. He was awestruck by the varied communities and the intermingling of people and made many friends. Even as the winter waned, his friends took him to enjoy the winter sports in Kargil and Drass- Archery and horse polo.

By the time the snow had melted completely, he was well settled in the landscape. The place had made so much impact in his life that he decided to make it his home and called for his family from Bota Kadal. Soon his entire household had shifted. His goods would come in from his hometown in Kashmir and he would trade them with traders from within and outside of Kargil. His trade flourished and his family lived happily in Kargil for many years to come.

The main settlement of Hundarman

The settlement of Hunderman

Broq is a balti village older than 500

comprises of houses on a cliff built of

years, close to the international border

dry masonry random rubble walls in

with Pakistan. Abandoned since 1971,

levels and terrace farming. Since it was

the settlement is the only existing

a community living, there were many

example of its kind today.

interactive spaces.

The main occupation in this region is agriculture. Due to the topography of the land, farming is done on contours.

Hundarman 40

Cluster 1 This is a schematic sketch of the site section of the settlement in Hundarman Broq, cut along the slope of the mountain. The construction has been done in multiple levels according to the slope. The edges of the cliff are not cut and the structure is built using stone and timber. The staggering of contours follows the slope of the mountain.

The typology of the

the levels were created.

masses were broken by voids and a difference in

shared the walls and had multiple levels. The

2 clusters with five houses each. The houses

used as manure. The settlement is divided into

the human waste got collected and was further

This lower-most level is the pit level where all

settlement was governed by the functions.

in Hundarman Broq.

floor plan of the entire stretch of the settlement

Level 1 (Ground Floor) - This is the ground

storage space for fodder, in each house.

place. This floor consisted of cattle shed and

house varied due to the topography of the

Level 2 (first floor) - The floor levels of each

out. It could be closed at times of snow and rain.

small opening in the flat roof to let the smoke

let in a bit of light to enter inside. There was a

evenly warm. There was a small opening that

centre so that the fire kept the entire space

They were dark rooms with kitchen in the

were placed in the floor above the cattle shed.

Level 3 (second floor) - The habitable spaces

to have multiple spaces.

accommodate everyone, the houses needed

in olden days had more members. Thus to

and storage space for the grains. Families

other spaces that served as sleeping areas

Level 4 (third floor) - The third floor had

This space was shared by all the houses.

they also stored the cereals they cultivated.

during the summers. In the enclosed spaces,

columns where fodder was stored and dried

of a long semi open space with multiple

Level 5 (fourth floor) - Fourth floor consisted

done on these terraces.

the grains. Harvesting of the grains were

other spaces that served as storage space for

Level 6 (fifth floor) - The fifth floor had

shelter the goods.

terrace with a small semi open space to

Level 7 (sixth floor) - This served as the

Cluster 2

Clockwise from top: view of cluster 2, view of first floor of, view of upper levels.

store fodder and water for a longer time.

restrict movement of the cattle inside and to

The cattle shed had further partitions to

storage space for fodder, in each house.

place. This floor consisted of cattle shed and

house varied due to the topography of the

Level 2 (first floor) - The floor levels of each

with multiple

they also stored the cereals they cultivated.

during the summers. In the enclosed spaces

columns where fodder was stored and dried

of a long semi open space

Level 4 (third floor) - Fourth floor consisted

Thus, to accommodate them, all the houses needed to have multiple spaces.

evenly warm. Walls had small openings to

opening in the flat roof to let the smoke out.

let the light penetrate in. There was a small

Families in olden days had more members.

centre so that the fire kept the entire space

Other spaces served as sleeping areas.

It could be closed at times of snow and rain.

They were dark rooms with kitchen in the

were placed in the floor above the cattle shed.

Level 3 (second floor) - The habitable spaces

Old Settlement The old settlement of Hundarman is oriented towards the North and Northeast. It is built on a cliff edge in multiple levels. It has been constructed using timber and stone.

The openings are

smaller to avoid wind from entering in.

New Settlement The walls of the ground floor are built using stones while the ones in the first floor

Above: Old settlements in Hundarman, Opposite: New settlements in Hundarman.

Comparing the built forms of the two settlements Old Settlement There has been a gradual change in the typology of the house forms governed by the site conditions . Spaces: It had compact and closely designed spaces. One room was used as a Kitchen, sleeping space and as a storage space. Height of the space: The spaces had low height of about 1.6 metres. This was 56

a result of the need to keep the place warm. Also, the height depended on the length of timber members available that were used in columns and doors. Construction

technique:

Ramdom

rubble masonry was used without any binding material to hold the stones together. Windows: Small windows helped in avoiding the wind from entering in, hence the place was warmer.

New Settlement

Height of the space: The spaces have

The houses in the new settlement were

height of a space is about 2.5 metres.

scattered due to the topography of the area, hence were independent. They had larger openings as the walls were

considerably lofty ceilings. The average This is a result of the use of materials and construction technique.

made using dressed stones. The interior

Construction

spaces were larger in comparison to the

stones have been used in walls and

old. This change was favoured by the

bound using mud mortar. Due to the

availability of land area.

precise edges of the stones used, the

Spaces: It is open and spacious. There are different rooms to serve distinct

technique:

Dressed

house form has a cuboidal form and not organic.

functions. Also, the number of rooms

Windows: They were wider and well

increased.

finished. Wider openings helped them invite in more light. 57

Elements Most of the elements in the settlement are structural. Timber is used in columns and beams. Willow sticks are used in creating partion walls. Thin and flexible ones are chosen and split into two. They are then wooven to interlock each other in order to create a surface that will serve as an enclosure element.

Timber is used in columns and beams.

Clockwise from top: External column beam and roof junction// Partition wall made up of willow sticks// Internal column beam and roof junction.

Column beam detail The columns are made out of Juniper, a locally available species of wood that has higher strength. The beam rests on the column with the help of the spacer to provide a surface area. In some cases, the beam directly rests of the column. Some columns run from the first level to the third level to carry the load of the roof above it.

Roof detail The roof is flat for insulation during snow. Also, the roof serves as an access to the spaces in each level. Willow sticks used in the roof under a layer of grass. Mud and gravels are used to fill the slab. Bigger stones are used towards the edges. Structure of the reflected roof: Column (juniper) | Primary beams (poplar) Secondary beams (poplar)| Willow sticks | Dry grass | Mud

Top: Reflected roof// Bottom: Layers of roof Opposite, clockwise from top: Spacers used above the column to rest the beam // Beams pass through the wall from both the ends// An opening in the roof. 61

Wooden door detail

wall beside the door where the fist was

The wooden door was 1.5 metre tall and approximately 0.9 metres

wide.

This door had a unique lock system which was quite complicated for any person to understand the mechanism. Both the lock and key were made of wood. There was a small niche in the

inserted to reach the key hole.

reaching the lock, the key was inserted in and the door could be unlocked. Only the owner of the house knew the mechanism and no one could see how it is being opened.

Customised wooden door lock This lock was designed exclusively for the house. Both, the lock and the key, were made out of wood. A small wooden block is fixed behind the door. Another

There was a small niche in the wall beside the door where the fist was inserted

piece of wood, which has the key hole, is inserted into the block. When this piece is completely inserted, the pins drop into the holes and get locked. The key is then inserted , twisted and lifted to move the pins up and unlock the door.

Spaces The space is sparsely lit as it has very small openings to avoid cold winds from entering in. The walls are made of random rubble. Fodder for cattle is stored here. The partition walls made out of mud. Clockwise from top: Internal space// Dark interiors// Fodder storage

Spaces The internal spaces are low heighted with a smaller opening. A thin beam of light enters in from the small opening. The size of the opening limits the entry of natural light, thus making the interiors dark. Clockwise from top: The quality of light entering into the space// Internal storage space in cattle shed// Internal storage space for cereals grown

Spaces The semi open space extending out of the enclosed space. Multiple semi open spaces created that are seperated by a stone wall. The roofing layers are Poplar beams, willow sticks, dry grass and gravels and a finishing layer of mud.

Clockwise from top: Semi open space// Semi open spaces

Materials and details There have been three main materials used in construction, which include stone,

timber,

mud.

Using

there

materials they have explored methods of

construction.

The

construction

details have been shown through wall sections of each building type.

Wall Sections Stone plinth. Rammed earth wall extends up till the bottom of slab. Ramming is done in bands and to bind the bands together gravels are used between two bands. The slab is made up of wooden beams, willow sticks and a layer of mud to seal the gaps and to provide an even surface for the floor above.

Random rubble wall made of dry masonry in the ground floor extends up to the next floor. The thickness of the wall reduces as is extends higher in order to reduce the self-load of the wall.

Random rubble wall made of dry masonry in the ground floor has through stones at regular intervals, in order to tie the stones together. In the first floor adobe wall is made, to reduce the dead load of the wall. The mud bricks are held together using mud mortar.

Stone wall tapers towards the higher end. The beams pass through the wall and extend out. The stone wall extends up to cover the edges ofthe slab and project the edges.

Column is made out of juniper and rests on a stone slab. It has a capital to provide surface area for the beam to rest. The beam supporting the slab takes the load transferred by the column above it. The secondary beams are used in roofing to support the willow sticks upon which dry grass and mud filling is done.

Column rests on a stone slab to avoid direct contact with mud, in order to prevent termites. The beam supports the slab and the wattle and daub wall above it. Wattle and daub helps in reducting the dead load.

In the course of our study, we came

The yellow frame is a gesture that

accross many elements whose

we used to highlight the important

importance had faded with time. The

elements within the street.

thought of giving back to the people for being such warm hosts resulted in the exhibition we put up in the old street og Kargil, to reconnect them with cultural heritage they possesed and the need to preserve them for years to come.

Framing the forgotten 82

Participants setting up the exhibition in the old street of Kargil

Civilians taking interest in understanding the work displayed

This page: Officials of the town// Opposite page: Students actively participating in the exhibition