Tallinn In Your Pocket Autumn 2020

Maps Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels

Tallinn Autumn 2020

The most comprehensive city guide to Tallinn since 1997

inyourpocket.com N°132 Complimentary copy

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Arrival & Transport

4

Navigating Tallinn

Culture & Events 6 Major events, cinemas, art galleries and more

Sightseeing

Essential Old Town The medieval centre in a nutshell

9

Sightseeing tours By bus, by bike or by tram

12

Museums Covering city history, from tunnels to airplanes

13

Kadriorg & Pirita Tallinn’s most beautiful park and seaside await

19

Kalamaja - Tallinn’s artistic district

22

The hip and happening neighbourhood

Noblessner - the city’s new hotspot 25 Art, culture and good food

Leisure

28

From sushi to sült

Cafés

37

The hottest places in the caffeine scene

Nightlife

Publisher Linnajuht OÜ, Küllike Johannson-Singer C I T Y tallinn@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com

48

Editors Nathanael A. Singer, Kristina Lupp Photography Küllike Johannson-Singer and Nathanael A. Singer unless otherwise stated Cover Tammsaare park (D-5 on the map); © visitestonia.com, EAS

Maps & Index

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

By this issue’s print time, the world is still dealing with the effects of the global COVID-19 pandemic. Travel and social restrictions are still being enforced, and special safety measures implemented in restaurants, museums, concert venues, and other places where people gather in groups. Please visit the Foreign Ministry’s website https://vm.ee/en and the local crisis management website https://www.kriis.ee/en for more detailed and up-to-date information.

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Tips on getting you started Old Town map City centre map

As always, we have packed Tallinn’s most up-to-date guide with everything you need to know about the city, and although there haven’t been so many new openings as of late, the choice of bars, restaurants, and sights remain stellar.

Printed by Reusner, Tallinn ISSN 1406-2690 © OÜ Linnajuht

From souvenirs to shopping malls

Living in Tallinn

If it’s nature and parks you’re after, head to the picturesque neighbourhoods of Kadriorg and Pirita (pages 19 - 21).

Nestled in between the two, you’ll find the hilltop Maarjamäe, Estonia’s tribute to wartime history and remembrance.

38

Find your perfect party

Shopping & Directory

While the Old Town is fascinating and will always remain a special gem in Tallinn’s crown, we urge you to also venture out to Kalamaja (pages 22 - 24) where you’ll find some funky bars, cool cafés and tasty street food, as well as to Noblessner - the city’s seaside hotspot (page 25).

covid-19 in estonia 26

Take action or take a breather

Restaurants

Summer is slowly making way for Autumn – yet, Tallinn is a great destination any time of year. The Old Town transforms from bustling to cosy, and Tallinners embrace a ‘new normal’ while still dealing with the effects of Covid-19. Events and festivals are still being held - safely, and terraces will remain open through September. Estonia has truly taken great strides to show that it’s still possible to enjoy life, while staying safe - and there’s plenty to enjoy here.

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E S S E N TI A L GUIDES

Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Linnajuht OÜ. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Autumn 2020

3

Getting around

Public transport

Buses

Tallinn’s public transportation system is a fairly straightforward network of buses, trolley-buses and trams, all of which use the same ticketing-system.

Trams provide the simplest way to get around downtown areas. From the centre, most major bus routes leave from the terminal under the Viru Centre, or from Vabaduse väljak (Freedom Square). Routes and schedules are listed in English at https://tallinn.pilet.ee/buy where you can also find a handy route planner to help you navigate your way through Tallinn’s pubic transport system.

All new CAF trams offer free wifi for passengers.

We also recommend to consider buying Tallinn Card that provides free transportation among other perks.

Please see Sightseeing section (page 10) for more details.

Tickets: The same tickets/cards are good on all three systems. The simplest version is the 1-hour QR ticket which can be bought with tallinn.pilet.ee app. If you are planning on travelling a lot via public transport, other types of tickets are good for specific periods of time and are sold in Tourist Information Centre (Niguliste 2), bus station, Balti jaam train station, airport, ferry terminals A & D, Selver and Prisma supermarket info desks, or R-Kiosk shops. One-hour Tallinn tickets (€1.50) may also be purchased onboard using Mastercard, Maestro, Visa and Visa Electron bank cards with contactless interfaces. Qwww. tallinn.pilet.ee/buy.

If you’re travelling city-to-city in the Baltics or around Estonia and you don’t have your own car, the bus is definitely the way to go. Connections are frequent and cheap, allowing you to cross the country for the same money you might spend on a taxi in Tallinn. Tickets can be bought online at www.tpilet.ee/en or from the bus station. International routes are operated by Lux Express (www.luxexpress.eu) and Ecolines (ecolines.net).

Airport Lennart Meri - Tallinn Airport Voted third best airport in Europe, Tallinn’s airport is a modern affair, but still so small there’s never a worry about getting lost. Officials still recommend you arrive 2 hours before your flight though. A taxi ride from the centre roughly costs €10 and takes between 10 and 20 minutes.

Alternatively, tram N°4 from the Viru stop will conveniently take you to the airport in just 20 minutes. You can also take bus N°2 from the A. Laikmaa stop on Laikmaa street, located between the Viru Shopping Centre and Tallink Hotel.

QM‑9, Tartu mnt. 101, tel. +372 605 88 88 (24hr flight info), www.tallinn-airport.ee.

4 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Bus Station Tallinn’s small bus station has been recently renovated to suit the modernity of its passengers. Tickets are available inside the station or from the driver but it is advisable to reserve or buy your ticket in advance. Get to the station by taking city trams N°2 and 4 from the centre, or bus N°17 or 23 next to the Solaris Centre, to the Bussijaam stop.QL‑8, Lastekodu 46, tel. +372 680 09 00, www.bussijaam.ee.

Open 05:00-01:00.

Ferries The vast majority of visitors travelling onward from Tallinn go by ship, and it’s no wonder - the city has excellent, affordable ferry connections to Helsinki, Stockholm and Saint Petersburg. On the Tallinn-Helsinki route, you have the large car ferries, which make the crossing in about two hours. Ferries are operated by Tallink (www.tallink. ee), who have large and fast car ferries and also operates the Tallinn-Stockholm line; Viking Line (www.vikingline. ee) and Eckerö Line (www.eckeroline.ee). Ferries leave from various terminals of the city’s two passenger harbours, clustered just outside Old Town (see area K/L-6 on the map).

Passenger Port Nearly all ferry companies use the Tallinn Old City Harbour’s Passenger Port, which is divided into passenger terminals A and D.QE‑2, Sadama 25, tel. +372 631 85 50, www.portoftallinn.com. Terminal A open 04:30-00:15, Sun 05:00-00:15, Terminal D open 06:00-01:00, Wed 06:00-01:30. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Transport tourist information

basic data

Tourist Information Centre The city’s official tourist information point is the best equipped to answer any question. QB‑5, Niguliste 2, tel. +372 645 77 77, www.visittallinn.ee.

In September open Mon - Sat 09:0018:00, Sun 09:00-16:00. From October open Mon Sat 09:00-17:00, Sun 10:00-15:00.

Tallinn Population: 444,563 (as of 01.02.2020) Density: 2,795.99 inhabitants/km2 Ethnic composition: Estonians 53.2%, Russians 38.1%, Ukrainians 3.4%, others 5.3%

Trains Train travel in Estonia hasn’t gained the popularity it has elsewhere in Europe.The only real international connections are to point east (Moscow, St.Petersburg and beyond).

Although plans are under way, forget about taking the train to Riga or Vilnius. It is, however, possible to get to Tartu and other Estonian cities by rail. Two separate companies cover Estonia’s train system: GoRail (www.gorail.ee) handles international, Elron (www.elron.ee) operates the local electric trains and the inter-city diesel trains.

Train Station (Balti jaam) Located just outside Old Town, Tallinn’s revamped train station boasts a trendy café, a day spa and a small grocery store, but unfortunately has little information posted in English. Luckily, the system is not too confusing and there are information and ticket booths (open 07:00 - 21:30), usually staffed by someone multi-lingual. For all domestic routes, you don’t even have to bother with this process since the same tickets can always be purchased right on board the trains - just check which track your train will leave from.

Tickets for trains to Russia are sold at the ticket booths on the 2nd floor, which are open daily 08:30 - 19:00.QA‑4, Toompuiestee 37, www.baltijaam.ee.

Parking Tallinn is so centralised and pedestrian-friendly that there’s absolutely no reason to bring a car. If you happen to be here with your own set of wheels though, keep in mind that finding parking in downtown Tallinn, especially during working hours, can be a real nightmare. Public parking on streets in the town centre, as well as a few streets in Old Town, costs €1.5 - 6/hour, depending on the zone. Buy perhour parking passes from streetside vending machines or kiosks, and be sure to leave a parking clock (or barring that a written note) on your dashboard to mark the time that you first parked. If all this sounds too complicated, you can just use the following guarded central parking lots/garages: Europark Toompea 3 €2.40/hour.QB‑6, Toompea 3, www.europark.ee.

Vabaduse väljak parking house €3.60/hour.

QB‑6, Vabaduse väljak 9. Open 24hrs.

Viru Centre parking house €2/hour.QE‑5, Viru väljak 4, tel. +372 651 15 30. Open 24hrs. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Estonia Population: 1,323,824 (as of 01.01.2019) Territory: 45,339km2 Density: 29.06 inhabitants/km2 Ethnic composition: Estonians 68.7%, Russians 24.8%, Ukrainians 1.7%, others 4.8% Islands: 1,521. The three largest are Saaremaa 2,673km2, Hiiumaa 1,023km2, and Muhu 206km2 Local time: Estonia is in the Eastern European Time Zone (GMT+2hrs). Summer time (GMT+3hrs) is in effect from the last Sunday of March until the last Sunday of October.

Rental bikes & scooters If you’re looking for an alternative way to get around town, there are three companies that rent electric scooters - Tuul (€1 + €0.15 min), Bird (€1 + €0.15 min) and Bolt (€0.50 + €0.15 min) are all app-based and offer scooters for the same price. There is a fee for unlocking the scooter and after there is a cost per minute. Scooters can be found using the app. For more detailed information visit: www.tuul. xyz, www.bird.co or https://bolt.eu/scooters.

The biggest bike rental company is City Bike, located at Vene 33 (C-1 on the map; www.citybike.ee) and you can also check out 16 Euro Bike Rental at Munga 4 (C-4 on the map; www.16eur.ee).

Taxis Taxi stands can be found near major hotels and in several locations just outside Old Town, but grabbing a taxi on the street usually comes with a premium fare. Luckily the city government has implemented a law governing taxis and have put a cap on the starting fare (max. €5.50) and per kilometre rates (€1.10/km) - so even if you just hail a cab you shouldn’t be in for too much of a surprise. Ordering by phone is the best strategy though, as usually they have better rates. Another option is to use one of the numerous taxi ordering apps like Bolt or Yandex. The often controversial Uber ‘taxi’ service is also available in Tallinn.

Here’s a list of taxi companies along with their daytime base fares and per-kilometre rates. Night time metres can run about 20% more.

Peretakso Only large taxis available, best for small groups. €4.80 + €0.95/km.Qtel. +372 646 00 06.

Takso24 €2.95 + €0.60 - 0.75/km.Qtel. +372 640 89 27.

Tallink Takso €3.95 + €0.99 - 1.10/km.Qtel. +372 640 89 21/1921.

Autumn 2020

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Culture & Events While Tallinn may not be a cultural metropolis like London, Paris or New York, people here do still like to feed their souls.

The town is home to a number of theatres, an opera house, several interesting museums, galleries, and even a couple art-house cinemas. If you are still thirsting for more, an exhaustive calendar of culture is available at www.culture.ee.

main events Estonian Music Days 2020 September 12 - 20, various venues around Tallinn, www. eestimuusikapaevad.ee.

Dating back to 1979, this festival brings together composers of different generations and presents new compositions from more than 30 Estonian composers - written especially for this event. An excessive amount of new commissions each year has made it the most established festival focusing on Estonian contemporary music. The programme includes Estonia’s most important and internationally renowned musical collectives.

Listeners get the opportunity to hear dazzling young Estonian musicians who primarily work abroad.

Jazzkaar 2020 October 9 - 15, November 3, Telliskivi Creative City (see p.22) and Alexela Concert Hall (see p.8), www.jazzkaar.ee.

The biggest international jazz event of the year will pull in performers from around the world, even from as far away places that GPS might make them difficult to find. Most concerts will take place at Telliskivi Creative City, except the headliner Dee Dee Bridgewater, who will perform in Alexela Concert Hall. Some of the highlights of this year’s festival are Dee Dee Bridgewater (USA), Dirty Loops from Sweden and Airto Moreira & Flora Purim with Neto Band from Brazil. Joining these and other international talents are a host of Estonian jazz artists, all with their own take on this popular genre.

Bocuse d’Or Europe 2020 October 15 - 16, Saku Suurhall (see p.8), www.bocusedor.ee.

Foodies not familiar with this prestigious cooking competition will certainly not want to miss any of the culinary action at Saku Suurhall. This is how it works: 24 young chefs from all over the world must prepare dishes within 5 hours and 35 minutes. Their dishes are judged by a jury of top chefs. The finalists will go on to compete in the finals in Lyon in 2021.

Estonia has been competing in the Bocuse d’Or for ten years and thanks to the dedication and passion of Dimitri Demjanov, the competition will be held in Tallinn for the first time.

where to get tickets Tickets to most major events are available from: Piletilevi E-5, Viru Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, www. piletilevi.ee. Also at: D-6, Solaris Centre, Estonia pst. 9.

Estonia’s major concert organiser, Eesti Kontsert, has its own box office in Tallinn at D-6, Estonia pst. 4, tel.

614 77 00, info@concert.ee, www.concert.ee.

Tallinn Comedy Festival November 3 - 6, various venues throughout Tallinn, http://comedyfestival.ee.

With the shorter, darker days on the way, a little bit of laughter goes a long way, and that’s exactly what the annual Tallinn Comedy Festival is for! Laugh out loud to famous comedians and up-and-coming acts, with entertainers from Estonia and around the world. Read more about this year’s programme from the website.

St. Martin’s Day Fair 2020 November 5 - 8, Saku Suurhall (see p.8), www.folkart.ee.

In honour of St. Martin’s Day, the Estonian Folk Art and Handicraft Union organises this fair involving workshops, handicraft sales, national cuisine, folk music, ‘mardi’ costumes and the general promotion of the folk lifestyle. A perfect place to load up on gifts for Christmas. But personally we like it best for homebrewed beer, dark bread slathered with butter and the smoked meat... mmmm.

Tallinn Vegan Fair 2020 November 7 - 8, Tallinn Creative Hub D‑2 (see p.8), www. facebook.com/veganfair.

The first and largest vegan food fair in the Baltics will take place at Tallinn’s Creative Hub for the ninth year in a row.

This ever-growing fair dedicates its theme this year to world-changers and spices. For full programme details visit the website.

24th Black Nights Film Festival PÖFF November 13 - 29, various venues throughout Tallinn, https://poff.ee.

Now in its 24th year, PÖFF is one of the largest and most prestigious film festivals to be held in the Nordic nations and also the only one in the region with an international film competition programme recognised by FIAPF (Fédération Internationale des Associations de Producteurs de

6 Tallinn In Your Pocket

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events Films), only 14 film festivals in the world can boast this kind of recognition. The festival itself consists of many different events, among them are 3 sub-festivals - Animated Dreams, Just Film, Sleepwalkers and the international film industry components. The importance of PÖFF brings films and filmmakers from more than 70 countries to Tallinn. In addition to the films there are some cinematic special events such as concerts, exhibitions as well as interesting lectures.

Black Food Festival November 21, Põhjala factory (G-5, Marati 5), www.tick‑ eter.ee.

Liven up the dark November nights at the Black Food Festival! This popular festival, which has taken place in Berlin, London and New York come to Tallinn in November at Põhjala Tehas. Black food comes in all shapes and sizes, and this festival invites you to come and have a taste. Full programme details can be found on their website.

Art galleries There are loads of little galleries in Tallinn, here we have listed some of the more important and centrally-located ones.

Design & Architecture Gallery Changing exhibition of Estonian product design.QC‑5, Pärnu mnt. 6, tel. +372 627 36 30. Open 12:00-18:00; closed Sun. Free admission.

Draakoni Gallery The famous Dragon gallery holds small, often strange exhibitions in its quaint, Old Town shop. QC‑4, Pikk 18, tel. +372 646 41 10, www.eaa.ee/draakon/.

Open 11:00-18:00; Sat 11:00-17:00; closed Sun. Free admission.

Fotografiska Tallinn Internationally renowned Fotografiska is featured in our Kalamaja section (page 23).

Haus Gallery A commercial gallery, Haus is also open to the public and has an active exhibition schedule. QC‑4, Uus 17, tel. +372 641 94 71, www.haus.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 11:00-16:00; closed Sun. Free admission. Buzz to enter.

as well as showcasing of Estonian documentary photos around the world. Until November 11: Outlook - 40 Years of Street Photography in Estonia. See website for full programme of events and exhibitions.QJ‑7, Telliskivi 60a/5, tel. +372 522 24 22, www.dokfoto.ee/en. Open 12:00-19:00. Admission €5, reduced €3, family €10.

Kai Art Centre Giving new life and purpose to one of the historic Noblessner, formerly secret, submarine and military ship building plant structures, Kai unites and promotes both local and international artists from all the various contemporary artistic disciplines. From artist-residency programs, special events, workshops, lectures, and a state-of-the-art cinema space - to unique and thought provoking exhibits, Kai is an innovative institution. Visit the Temnikova & Kasela art gallery, which hosts interesting exhibitions by local and foreign artists. Worthy of visiting simply for the art and artistic endeavours - on the ground floor of the premises you’ll find four eateries/locales that will provide an artistic experience for your tummy. QJ‑6, Peetri 12, www.kai.center. Open 12:00-19:00; closed Mon, Tue. Exhibitions €8, reduced €5. Y Kullo Children’s Gallery Located in a fascinating medieval dwelling house, Kullo hosts workshops for children and highlights works by the coming generation of Estonian artists.QC‑5, Kuninga 6, tel. +372 644 68 73, www.kullo.ee/Kullo_Lastegalerii.

Open 10:00-18:00; closed Sat, Sun. Admission €2.

Tallinn Art Hall & Galleries Drop into this imposing 1930s-era building on Vabaduse square to find some of the most daring and avant-garde temporary exhibitions from Estonia and abroad. The Art Hall’s smaller galleries (where admission is free) at Vabaduse väljak 6 and Harju 13 host separate exhibitions.

Until September 6: Urmas Pedanik. Transitions. Until September 6: Alina Bliumis and Tanja Muravskaja.

Narrating Against the Grain. Until October 4: Olev Subbi.

Landscapes from the End of Times. September 11 November 8: Like stones in flowing water. September 17 - November 8: Maria Kapajeva. Through the Thorns to the Stars.QC‑6, Vabaduse väljak 8, tel. +372 644 28 18, www.kunstihoone.ee. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission €8, reduced €4, family €12. Y

Hobusepea Gallery The Estonian Artists’ Union operates this cosy, twostorey gallery.QC‑4, Hobusepea 2, tel. +372 627 67 77, www.eaa.ee/hobusepea. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Tue. Free admission.

Juhan Kuus Documentary Photo Centre Named after Juhan Kuus, a world-renowned documentary photographer of Estonian origin who lived and worked in South Africa. This new documentary photo centre aims to promote and support the development of documentary photography in Estonia facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Tallinn Art Hall and Galleries

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Culture & Events folk holidays in autumn All Souls’ Day November 02. Estonians don’t traditionally celebrate Halloween, but they do have a day to honour their dead. All Souls’ Day (Hingedepäev) is a solemn, private affair in which the dead are honoured by placing candles in windows or on graves. Indeed any cemetery visited on that night will be filled with the eerily beautiful glow of flickering flames.

St. Martin’s Day (Mardipäev) November 10. One of the most important holidays in the rural calendar, St. Martin’s Day traditionally marks the end of the autumn season and is basically the Estonian version of Thanksgiving. On the previous evening young folks put on costumes and go door to door, performing and begging for treats.

Cinamon Kosmos During the Soviet-era, Kosmos was the most advanced cinema in the Baltics. Three theatres are housed here, one of which has the largest screen in Estonia. Regular and 3D films are also shown in the other halls. See website for programme and ticket details.QK‑8, Pärnu mnt. 45, tel. +372 53 08 07 02, www.cinamonkino.com/kosmos.

Coca-Cola Plaza This high-tech, 11-screen super cinema is most people’s first stop for Hollywood blockbusters. Now even featuring a 3D theatre. QE‑4, Hobujaama 5, www. forumcinemas.ee.

Sõprus Now operating on a regular basis, this is the kind of place cinemaphiles hang out at. These art house films are often European or Estonian productions, but be warned - you may not be able to see them with English subtitles. Truly for the more hard core among cinema viewers. See website for schedule. Ticket booth opens one hour before ‘seance’ - not really sure what that means, but Bela Lugosi might also be in attendance.QC‑5, Vana-Posti 8, tel. +372 644 19 19, www.kinosoprus.ee.

Event and Culture Venues Alexela Concert Hall Tallinn’s world-class concert hall, complete with a stunning sound system and high-tech gadgetry.QD‑6, Estonia pst.

9, tel. +372 615 51 11, www.tallinnconcerthall.com.

St. Catherine’s Day (Kadripäev) November 25. The female version of Mardipäev and also features similar activities. Instead of animal masks however, revellers of both genders dress as women. Don’t ask, don‘t tell. All in all just good oldfashioned fun.

Cinemas Tallinn’s cinemas are fairly central, and all films except kids’ films are shown in their original language with Estonian subtitles.

Tickets cost around €3 - 10.

Apollo Kino Solaris Located in the Solaris Centre, this is the most state of the art cinema in Tallinn.QD‑6, Estonia pst. 9, tel. +372 633 60 20, www.apollokino.ee.

Artis Tallinn’s two-theatre, art-house cinema has a full schedule of independent films, Estonian productions, shorts and kids’ films.QD‑6, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. +372 663 13 80, www.kino.ee.

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Estonia Concert Hall The premier venue for classical music and the home of national concert organiser Eesti Kontsert.QD‑6, Estonia pst. 4, tel. +372 614 77 65, www.concert.ee. Open 12:0019:00; Sat 12:00-17:00.

Estonian National Opera The majestic, historical opera house is located in the very heart of Tallinn. The repertoire consists of classical and contemporary operas, ballets, as well as operettas, musicals, and frequent performances by internationallyrenowed guests.QD‑6, Estonia pst. 4, tel. +372 683 12 15, www.opera.ee. Box office open 11:00 - 19:00, closed Mon. Y Saku Suurhall Famous as the venue for the 47th Eurovision Song Contest in 2002, this 7000-seat sports and concert arena hosts large concerts and major sporting events.QF‑8, Paldiski mnt. 104b, tel. +372 660 02 00, www.sakusuurhall.ee.

Tallinn Creative Hub (Kultuurikatel) This cultural area has lots to offer the visitor who is looking for something a little different. From concerts to film nights, theatrical performances, fashion shows, various exhibitions and special events.QD‑2, Põhja pst. 27a, tel. +372 56 20 11 15, www.kultuurikatel.ee. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

Experience the best views of the city from Skywheel of Tallinn (see p.12) Given its age (over 800 years old) and fascinating history, Tallinn is chalk-full of sights, museums and countless stories to help you pass the time rather interestingly. Here you’ll find the must-sees and a whole lot more.

Find the Tourist Information Centre’s info on page 5.

essential Old Town Dating back as far as the 13th century, the old section of Tallinn is what keeps most visitors occupied during their stay. The winding, cobbled streets of the medieval capital take you past half-hidden lanes, courtyards, spired churches and old, merchant houses. For centuries, what’s now the Old Town has been divided into two distinct parts: Toompea Hill, which was home to the gentry that lorded over the countryside, and Lower Town, which was a separate political entity with rights as an autonomous town.

Toompea Hill Dating back as far as the 13th century, the old section of Tallinn is what keeps most visitors occupied during their stay. The winding, cobbled streets of the medieval capital take you past half-hidden lanes, courtyards, spired churches and old, merchant houses. For centuries, what’s now the Old Town has been divided into two distinct parts: Toompea Hill, which was home to the gentry that lorded over the countryside, and Lower Town, which was a separate political entity with rights as an autonomous town.

Climb Pikk jalg and you’ll find yourself on Castle Square (Lossi plats), smack-dab between the seat of the Estonian government at Toompea Castle and the 19th-century symbol of the Tsar’s power in Estonia, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. You are standing at the birthplace of Tallinn, where the Knights of the Sword built a fortress in 1229. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral Toompea’s dominating landmark is the Russian Orthodox cathedral named for the duke who attacked southeastern Estonia and Pskov in the early 13th century. Tsar Alexander III ordered the cathedral designed in 1894 by St. Petersburg master Mikhail Preobrazhensky and it was completed in 1900.

According to legend, the cathedral was built on the grave of Estonian hero Kalev and has suffered structurally as a result.QA‑5, Lossi plats 10, tel. +372 644 34 84, www.orthodox.ee. Open 08:00-18:00. Services in Rus‑ sian Mon - Fri 08:30; 17:00, Sat 08:30, Sun 09:30. Free admission.

Danish King’s Garden One of the most picturesque and secluded locations in Old Town, the Danish King’s Garden is filled with trees, benches, little nooks and a great view of the Niguliste Church spire. The Garden also has a dark side, as it’s featured in the centre of many famous ghost stories about the Maiden’s Tower, Marstal Tower and Short Leg Gate Tower. The best time to visit the garden is at night with the medieval walls at your back and the beautifully lit lower town roofs providing ambience. Statues of three monks are illuminated. It also features two of Tallinn’s fortification towers, Neitsitorn (Maiden’s Tower) and Tallitorn (Marstal Tower). A replica of the 16th century Red Lion cannon was added to the garden in Spring 2018.QB‑5, Lühike jalg 9a.

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Sightseeing - Essential Old Town tallinn card If you’re trying pack the most into your time in Tallinn, consider picking up the city tourist office’s discount card, the Tallinn Card, good for 24hrs (€29), 48hrs (€43), or 72hrs (€52). ​There is also Tallinn Card Plus which gets you a free entry to the hop-on hop-off buses and costs 24hrs (€40), 48hrs (€54), 72hrs (€64). For kids 7 17, the price is reduced by about 50%. Cardholders will gain free admission to over 40 museums and sights in the city, unlimited use of public transport and all sorts of fun bonuses and freebies at restaurants, shops, etc.

Look for the Y symbol in this guide for listed partners.

The card can be bought online and used in your mobile phone or you can buy a plastic card from major hotels as well as the airport, harbour and at the Tallinn Tourist Information Centre (Kullassepa 4). For more details, consult the website at www.tallinncard.ee.

Dome Church (Cathedral of Saint Mary the Virgin) What might be the oldest church in Estonia was founded in 1219 by the first wave of Danish forces. The Gothic exterior dates to the 14th century, but the interior was rebuilt after the 1684 fire. The Baroque pulpit (1686) and organ loft (1780) are worth a look. As you enter be sure to step on the tomb of Otto Johann Thuve, who asked that his grave be placed in this humbling location. Please be considerate and visit after the Sunday service. The tower’s viewing platform is open to the public 10:30-16:30.QA‑5, Toomkooli 6, tel. +372 644 41 40, www.toomkirik.ee. Open 10:00-17:00. Services in Estonian Sun 11:00. Organ music Sat 12:00. Admission €2. Tower admission €5. Y

castle you can see Pikk Hermann tower with the blue, black and white tricolour flag waving above it. It’s commonly recognised that whoever’s flag flies on top of this tower is the ruler of Estonia. The pink section you see in front is actually a baroque structure added in the 18th Century. For a more castle-like view of this building, head behind it, down the opposite side of the hill.

Please check the website for information on available tours. QA‑5, Lossi plats 1, tel. +372 631 63 45, www. riigikogu.ee/en/visit-us.

Toompea Castle Built on the spot where the ancient Estonians’ wooden fortress stood before the 1219 Danish invasion, Tallinn’s castle served for seven centuries as the seat of power for the nation’s foreign masters. Now it houses the Riigikogu, Estonia’s parliament. On one corner of the

Viewing platforms The Kohtuotsa and Patkuli view platforms are usually the first place that tourists want to see when they visit Tallinn.

From here, sweeping views of the town, its red-tiled roofs, its towers, its walls and all of its charm open up. Get your camera ready.QB‑4, Toompea hill.

Toompea Castle. Photo by Kaupo Kalda

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Sightseeing - Essential Old Town Lower Town Lower Town, the larger part of medieval Tallinn (or Reval as it was called back then), became a member of the Hanseatic League at the end of the 13th century. Goods from around the world came in through the port and were traded on the market on Town Hall Square. Reval operated autonomously from the rest of the Estonian territories right up until Tsarist Russian times. As in the rest of the country, the real movers and shakers in Reval society were the Baltic Germans, with Ethnic Estonians for most part second-class citizens. However, Estonian peasants from surrounding areas often escaped to the city, where they could eventually be considered free.

Holy Spirit Church This awe-inspiring, 13th-century church adjacent Town Hall Square sports an impressive Baroque tower as well as an ornate, outdoor clock that’s said to be one of the most photographed objects in Tallinn. The real treasure however is the intricate, wood-carved interior, which includes Baroque pews and a Renaissance pulpit (the oldest in Tallinn). Founded by the Order of the Holy Spirit, the church was always close to the people - It was the most active in providing alms to the sick and poor, and it was here that the first sermons were given in Estonian after the Reformation.QC‑4, Pühavaimu 2, tel. +372 646 44 30, www.puhavaimu.ee. Services in En‑ glish every Sunday at 13:00, classical music hour Mon 18:00. Entrance fee €1.50. Y Niguliste Church - Museum Tallinn’s most famous work of art, a wall-sized fragment of Bernt Notke’s spooky, 15th-century masterpiece Dance Macabre, has its home in this 13th-century Gothic church-turned art museum. Destroyed during World War II and rebuilt during Soviet times, the church now houses a fascinating collection of medieval religious art, with altars from the 15th and 16th centuries, a collection of Baroque and Renaissance chandeliers, and a ‘silver chamber.’ The church is also known for its acoustics - organ concerts are held here every Saturday and Sunday at 16:00.

Special exhibition on display from November 6 until May 2, 2021 ‘Christian Ackermann: The Arrogant and Gifted Phidias of Tallinn’ introduces the life and work of Christian Ackermann, the most scandalous and gifted sculptor of the Estonian baroque era.QB‑5, Niguliste 3, tel. +372 631 43 30, www.nigulistemuuseum.ekm.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. From October open 10:00-18:00, closed Mon, Tue. Admission €8, reduced €6, family €16. Y facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

St. Catherine’s Passage One of the prettiest little walkways in all of Old Town, the medieval St. Catherine’s passage connects Vene and Müürivahe streets. On the northern portion of the passage you can find what’s left of St. Catherine’s Church (hence the passage name) and various large, ancient tombstones that used to line the inside of the sanctuary. On the southern portion of the passage, you’ll find numerous artisan workshops, where you’ll even get to see them hard at work creating new items for you to buy. At any rate, we’re sure you’ll find Katarina Käik, a pretty nice hike.QC‑4, Katariina Käik.

St. Olaf’s Church St. Olaf’s 124m spire is a Tallinn landmark, and was the tallest building in Europe between 1549 and 1625. An old legend claims that the church was built to attract more merchant ships to the town by a mysterious craftsman who promised to work for free if the townspeople discovered his name (Olev). In reality, the church took its name from the canonised Norwegian king, Olav Havaldsson. The first mention of the church dates to 1267, but the interior dates to 1840 and reflects that era’s Historicist bent. QC‑3, Lai 50, tel. +372 641 22 41, www.oleviste.ee. Services in Estonian Sun 10:00, 12:00, Thu 18:30 (prayer). Y Town Hall Square As a medieval market and a modern meeting place, Town Hall Square, has been the heart of city life for eight centuries.

With the Town Hall at your back, you can survey some of the most impressive examples of Gothic architecture in Tallinn.

Hunt for a circular stone in the centre of the square marked with a compass rose. From here, if you stretch, you can see the tops Tallinn’s five most famous spires.QC‑5, Raekoja plats.

Town Hall The jewel in the crown of Old Town is unquestionably the Town Hall, the centre of civic rule from the Middle Ages to the early 20th century. Though a previous town hall stood here at least as far back as 1322, the imposing Gothic building of today dates to 1404.

Old Thomas, the weather vane who symbolises Tallinn, has been keeping watch since 1530. This time of year you need to call ahead to arrange for a glimpse of the vaulted halls and carved friezes of the historic interior.

QC‑5, Raekoja plats 1, tel. +372 645 79 00, www.raekoda. tallinn.ee. Admission €5, reduced €3, family €10. Y Autumn 2020

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Sightseeing town hall pharmacy One of the oldest continuously running pharmacies in Europe is on Town Hall Square.

No one knows exactly when it opened, but records show that the Raeapteek was already on its third owner in 1422. In medieval times patients could buy mummy juice and burnt bees for treatment, and healthy folks could even drop in for a glass of spiced wine. Keeping up with the times, the pharmacy sells the usual aspirin and condoms, but part of the shop is also a museum, displaying old medical instruments and other curiosities.QC‑4, Raekoja plats 11, tel. +372 58 87 57 01, www.raeapteek. ee. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Sun. Free admission.

Sightseeing tours City Bike Tours Now more than just bikes, Citybike offers tours on wheels and by foot. There are tours available for pretty much any interesting sight in and around the city. These include excursions of Old Town, including a visit to the tunnels and trips to Pirita and Kadriorg. Customised tours are also available.

‘Welcome to Tallinn Bike Tour’ €21, price includes rental, equipment, tour and a refreshing drink. Excursions leave from the City Bike office in Old Town. QC‑4, Vene 33, tel. +372 511 18 19, www.citybike.ee. Open 10:00-19:00. Y City Train This is a happy, blue little tourist train that makes a 25-minute circuit through the streets of Old Town all year long. Departures are from Vana-Viru street, near Viru gates.

Great fun for both kids and kids-at-heart. Ride costs €7 for adults and €5 for the kids.QC‑5, tel. +372 58 87 77 42.

EstAdventures This innovative outfit organises regular free walking tours such as a great Communist Tallinn tour and an excellent Old Town tour. Tours start in Tallinn Tourist Information Center.Qtel. +372 58 02 75 84, www.estadventures.ee.

Ronk Ronk Ghost and Folkore Tours Do you love ghost stories and folklore? Take a tour with Ronk Ronk to discover such things as ‘Oldest Ghost of Tallinn’ and ‘Hidden Stories of Down-town of Tallinn’.

Minimum group size is 10 people for a private tour or look at their schedule for regular tours. Qtel. +372 53 90 21 77/+372 56 48 99 38, www.ronkronk.ee.

Tallinn Day Trip by Prangli Travel Prangli Travel offers professionally-guided private and group day trips from Tallinn. Different tours and activities in Tallinn, as well in its surroundings include the Old Town walking tour, Tallinn Top Attractions tour, Lahemaa National Park day trip, Prangli island day trip, bog-walking and sauna, tours to Jägala waterfall and many more. All day trips start conveniently from Tallinn. QB‑6, tel. +372 56 47 71 72, www.tallinndaytrip.com.

Tallinn Official Sightseeing Tour The classic general tour of Tallinn, the Official Sightseeing Tour, is made up of two parts: a bus tour of the city that covers downtown and some of the more interesting outer areas, and also a walking tour of Old Town. The whole affair takes 2.5 hours. The tour costs €30 and departure is 10:30 daily in front of Original Sokos Hotel Viru. See website for detailed information. Pre-booking is needed.QE‑5, tel. +372 610 86 16, www.travel-expert.eu.

skywheel of tallinn See Tallinn at a new angle from the Skywheel! At 120 metres above sea level, you’ll experience magnificent views of the city, the sea, Ülemiste Lake and the airport. Each weather-proof pod holds up to six people.

The pods are heated in winter and air-conditioned in summer. If you want to make it an extra special experience, you can book a 100€ Mumm VIP package (for up to 4 people) that includes a ride in a private Mumm VIP gondola, with leather armchairs, and a champagne cooler with a cold bottle of the world-famous G.H. Mumm champagne or a special non-alcoholic drink. QM‑8, Peterburi tee 2 (T1 Mall of Tallinn), tel. +372 656 51 15, www.SkywheelOfTallinn.ee. Open 10:00-22:00; Mon 12:00-22:00. Admission €10, fam‑ ily €28. Children up to 3 years old free of charge.

Nordic Experience If you want to make the most of your limited time, and enjoy a personal private guided tour, check out ‘Nordic Experience’. Their friendly and entertaining guides can be booked on short notice and your tour can be tailored to suit your pace and interests. The following tour prices are for 2 people: 2hr ‘Tallinn Old Town Walking Tour’ €49, 4hr ‘Tallinn Panoramic Drive’ with guide and driver €185, 4hr ‘Tallinn Old Town and Kadriorg-Pirita Tour’ €143, 4hr ‘Paldiski and Countryside Tour’ €160, 10hr ’Helsinki Day Trip’ €230. See website for additional tours and info.QD‑5, Viru 21, tel. +372 59 00 51 51, www.nordicexperience.com.

12 Tallinn In Your Pocket

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Sightseeing Churches

Art museums

Although Tallinn is small, the amount of historic churches around the city is quite impressive. The styles and variety in architecture also vary quite a bit, from the predominate Lutheran to Orthodox and Catholic amongst others.

Tallinn’s most famous churches have already been listed in the Old Town section, but here are some others for readers with a special interest.

Located throughout the city, you’ll find some intriguing art museums to explore, some of which are located in Kadriorg (please see them listed on pages 19-20). If you’re interested in learning more about Estonian art, KUMU, the Art Museum of Estonia is a good place to start, with the largest permanent collection (see page 20).

Dominican Monastery Claustrum This 13th century monastery offers a glimpse into the lives of medieval monks. The east wing of the once three chambers remains where you can explore many rooms including a monk’s dormitory and prior’s living quarters.

One of the most interesting spots may be the downstairs room that houses the ‘energy pillar’ purportedly the source of a mysterious power.QC‑4, Müürivahe 33, tel. +372 511 25 36, www.claustrum.eu. Open 10:00-17:30.

Open from May through September, other times only for prearranged group bookings. Admission €3. Various programmes available, see website for details.

St. Charles the XI’s Church Built in pseudo-Romanesque style on the site of a 17thcentury wooden church, Kaarli is an excellent example of the use of one of Estonia’s greatest resources - limestone.

In all, construction took 20 years (1862 - 1882), but painter Johann Köler completed Estonia’s largest mural here, Come to Me, in just ten days. The church is also home to Estonia’s largest church organ.QA‑7, Toompuiestee 4, tel. +372 611 91 00, www.kaarlikogudus.ee. Services in Estonian Sun 10:00 and Mon 13:00. Classical music hour on Tue 17:00.

St. Michael’s Swedish Lutheran Church Originally built as a hospital in the 16th century, St. Michael’s also housed a spinning factory where ‘fallen women’ worked. Then it was transformed into a church for local Swedes. After serving as a weightlifting room under the Soviets, the church was returned in 1993 to the Swedish congregation, whose efforts to fund-raise for renovation of the church have paid off. Book in advance for museum tour.QB‑5, Rüütli 9, tel. +372 644 19 38, www. stmikael.ee. Services in Swedish every Sunday 12:00 and in Finnish every Sunday 10:00. In German every 2nd and 4th Sunday 15:00.

St. Peter and Paul’s Roman Catholic Church A relative newcomer as far as Tallinn’s houses of worship go, this pseudo-Gothic church was built in on the former refectory of the Dominican Monastery from 1841 - 1844.

Drop by to look at the interior. If the door is locked, go to the office and knock.QC‑4, Vene 18, tel. +372 644 63 67, www.katoliku.ee. Services in Estonian Mon - Fri 08:00, Mon - Wed & Fri 18:00, Sun 11:30; in Russian Sun 18:00; in Latin Sat 08:00; in Polish Thu 18:00, Sun 10:00; in English Sat 18:00. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Adamson-Eric Museum The permanent collection of works by the world-renowned artist Adamson-Eric (1902 - 1968) is housed in a 16thcentury in Old Town. Affiliated with The Art Museum of Estonia. Until October 25: Olev Subbi: Using Paint to Find an Ideal World.QB‑5, Lühike jalg 3, tel. +372 644 58 38, www.adamson-eric.ekm.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. From October open 10:00-18:00, closed Mon, Tue. Admission €7, reduced €5, family €14. Joint tickets to all branches of the Art Museum of Estonia available. Y Contemporary Art Museum of Estonia In a former office building on a deck of an old heating plant is where you’ll find the Contemporary Art Museum of Estonia. The museum aims to find middle ground between official art museums and alternative galleries.

Exhibitions are constantly changing, so be sure to check the website for what’s on display. In addition to the exhibitions, there is also a café on the main floor that often hosts different events. QD‑2, Põhja pst. 35, tel. +372 53 30 54 49, www.ekkm.ee. Open 12:00-19:00; closed Mon. Open from April 18 until November 30.

Free admission.

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design Works of Estonian applied art and intriguing temporary exhibitions are set off by irregular white walls. Until September 20: Ingrid Allik. SEKRET / CEKPET. A-hide and seek of memories.QC‑4, Lai 17, tel. +372 627 46 00, www.etdm.ee. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission €6, reduced €3, family €10. Y Museum of Photography Back in the 14th century this building behind the Town Hall served as the town prison (as a visit to the cellar will show). Now it houses an extensive exhibition on Estonian photography, mainly devoted to the 1840 - 1940 period.

Drop in to peruse the old Tallinn photos, recreated studio and antique cameras on display. Until November 15: Estonian Avant Garde Portraits 1980-2000.QC‑5, Raekoja 4/6, tel. +372 644 87 67, www.linnamuuseum.ee/ fotomuuseum. Open 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00; closed Mon, Tue. From October open 10:00-17:00, Thu 12:00-20:00, Sun 11:00-16:00, closed Mon, Tue. Admission €5, reduced €3, family €10. Y

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Sightseeing Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials app

History museums Estonia’s fascinating history can be discovered in one of its many history museums. Starting in the Old Town, you can learn about 11,000 years of Estonia’s history at the Great Guild Hall, or the country’s haunting Soviet past at the KGB Prison Cells. Towards Pirita area you can find the Maarjamäe History Centre and futher on to Viimsi area the Estonian War Museum.

Estonian History Museum - Great Guild Hall Housed in the Great Guild Hall, this newly renovated museum’s permanent exhibition, entitled ‘Spirit of Survival’, covers 11,000 years of Estonia’s history with interactive displays and text in Estonian and English (audio-guides available in Russian and English). The building, built 1407 1410, is significant as the home of Tallinn’s union of wealthy merchants and is a sight worth visiting in its own right. As part of the renovations, several formal rooms and cellars have now been opened to the public for the first time. Next to the museum, follow the Börsi Passage where Estonia’s history is set in the stone path (when it’s not covered in snow), from the pre-history, through the present-day. The exhibition ‘I love you, Georg Ots’ is on display until October 11. The famous singer and actor Georg Ots (1920-1975) was adored for his talent and charm. He was highly regarded in Estonia, as well as in Russia and Finland. The exhibition looks at the actor’s life and work through the eyes of his admirers and aims to unravel the meaning of Georg Ots for his contemporaries and his place in Estonian culture. QC‑4, Pikk 17, tel. +372 696 86 90, www.ajaloomuuseum.ee.

Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission €8, reduced €6, family €16. Y Estonian History Museum - Maarjamäe History Centre Maarjamäe Palace is the most well-preserved, summer manor complex in Tallinn today. Built in 1874 and commissioned by Count Anatoly Orlov-Davydov from St. Petersburg, it has played many different roles during its long history. This palace has housed a posh restaurant and hotel, an Aviation School of the Republic of Estonia as well as the Soviet army, before being given new life as a museum in 1987. The permanent exhibition ‘My Free Country’ takes visitors on a 100-year journey, from the birth of the Republic of Estonia to modern day. Part of the Estonian History Museum, the Estonian Film Museum houses a permanent exhibition entitled ‘Take ONE’. The exhibition looks at the filmmaking process and lets you in on the secrets of filmmaking and filmmakers. Over the last decade, the museum has been collecting monuments from the Soviet period with the intention of making an outdoor exhibition that presents a specific period of local 14 Tallinn In Your Pocket

history. This exhibition is displayed behind Maarjamäe Palace and forms one part of the museum’s new park.

The historic Maarjamäe Stables building is a venue for exhibitions, currently displaying ‘Sound of Freedom. The Story of Estonian Popular Music’.QN‑6, Pirita tee 56, tel. +372 696 86 00, www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. Open 10:0018:00; closed Mon. Entire centre admission €8, reduced €6, family €16. Y Estonian War Museum - General Laidoner Museum Housed in Viimsi Manor, the former summer residence of General Johan Laidoner, the Estonian War Museum is a great place to start if you’d like to learn more about the history of this country. Over hundreds of years, Estonia has had troops fighting on its soil from Denmark, Sweden, Germany, Poland, Russia and has even hosted a fair share of Viking battles. Inside you’ll find displays and stories about the various wars Estonia and Estonians have been involved in. There are several exhibitions available for visit. The exhibition starts with a room dedicated to war history in Estonia since ancient times to the 20th century.

The exhibition of WW I speaks about the destiny of Estonians who either conscripted or drafted voluntarily to the Russian army and is continued with the exhibition about the Estonian War of Independence. The period of WW II is told through the story of three men depicting the situation in Estonia under the occupations. The highlight of Cold War exhibition is a replica of a winter bunker of Estonian partisans (so-called Forest Brothers). Selection of Estonian historical uniforms as well as around 130 firearms and cold arms from the mid-18th century to the 20th century can also be seen. A display of big artillery guns and military vehicles is located 300 m from the museum.

Getting there: Take bus N°1A to Viimsi from the Viru Centre’s underground bus terminal (C-4) and get off at Viimsi vallamaja stop (should be about a 25min ride).

Walk back to the main road and turn right, another 50m and it will be the large yellow building on your left.QO‑1, Mõisa tee 1, Viimsi, tel. +372 621 74 10, www.esm.ee.

Open 11:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue. The heavy artillery exposition is open from May through September Fri Sun 11:00-18:00. From October through April you need to prebook a guided tour for visiting the heavy artillery exposition. Admission €3, reduced €2, family €5. Y

Estonian War Museum

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Sightseeing KGB Prison Cells The unsuspecting facade of Pagari 1 in the Old Town hides a dark past that once was the KGB Prison Cells in Tallinn. The former KGB headquarters building has long been a symbol of the former Soviet oppression in Estonia.

In the basement, suspected enemies of the state were imprisoned in tiny cells, sometimes up to 18 people at a time, before they were interrogated, then either shot or sent to labour camps in Siberia. Visit a part of the dark cellar, KGB Prison Cells is now open for visitors.QC‑3, Pagari 1 (entrance on Pikk 59), tel. +372 668 02 50, www.vabamu.ee/kgb-prison-cells. Open 14:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-18:00. Admission €5, reduced €4, family €11. Joint ticket with Vabamu Museum of Occupations and Freedom available. Y Kiek in de Kök Fortifications Kiek in de Kök, Bastion Passages, the Carved Stone Museum, Maiden’s Tower, Marstal Tower and the Short Leg Gate Tower make up a massive museum complex over 300 metres long.

Kiek in de Kök tower is an excellent introduction to the history of Tallinn’s defences. Built 1475 - 1481, the 45-metre, six-storey cannon tower played a key role in the Livonian War and still has nine of Ivan IV’s cannonballs embedded in its walls. And where did the tower get its name? Medieval soldiers joked that from its top, they could see right into the kitchens of the houses below - hence the odd name.

Legends, secrets and underground tunnels, the Bastion Passages aren’t just for rats any more. Built in the 17thcentury by the Swedes to help protect the city, these passages are a fascinating relic of times past. The Carved Stone Museum, housed in the same passages, displays decorative and interesting carved stone fragments, including columns and family crests dating back to the 15th century. Originally erected in 1370-73, the Maiden’s Tower has undergone extensive renovations and it’s been reconnected to the adjacent defence tower, the Marstal Tower. Maiden’s Tower features historical exhibits reflecting these fortifications and the stories that go along with them.QB‑6, Komandandi 2, tel. +372 644 66 86, www. linnamuuseum.ee/kok. Open 10:00-17:00; Thu 10:0020:00; closed Mon. Admission €14, reduced €8, family €28. Only towers or only passages tickets also available.

Y Tallinn City Museum By far, the most modern and complete introduction to Tallinn, City Museum was established in 1937. Appropriately built into a 14th-century merchant house, the Tallinn City Museum houses elaborate displays, with English captions, demonstrating various aspects of Tallinn life through the ages. They also house a depository of porcelain and faience (fine tin-glazed pottery on a delicate pale buff earthenware structure). Until October 4, 2020: ‘Tallinn Cathedral School - the cornerstone of education in Estonia’. Until May, 2021: From stronghold to town - the birth of a Danish town 800 years ago.QC‑4, Vene 17, tel. +372 615 51 80, www. linnamuuseum.ee/linnamuuseum. Open 10:00-17:00; closed Mon. From October open 10:00-17:00, Tue 10:00facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

OLD THOMAS One of Tallinn’s most recognised and legendary figures, the weathervane Vana Toomas (Old Thomas), can be seen guarding over Old Town from the top of the Town hall tower, rain or shine. Toomas wasn’t always as old as his current name suggests - you see, as a wee peasant lad he won an annual archery contest that was only reserved for the nobility. He expected to get into a fair amount of trouble for winning, as it had never been done by someone of his lowly stature, but his win would not be in ‘vain’ as he was invited to become an apprentice guard. The next few years would see much adventure for our young hero as he performed numerous heroic deeds during the Livonian war and went on to serve Tallinn well past the usual retirement age. At some point later the townsfolk noticed a similarity between the weathervane and their favorite soldier and decided to honor him by giving his name to the vane. He has since become a symbol of the city.QC-2.

19:00, Sun 11:00-16:00, closed Mon. Admission €6, reduced €4, family €12. Y Vabamu Museum of Occupations and Freedom In the period from 1941 to 1991, Estonia was occupied briefly by Nazi Germany and then for four and a half decades by the USSR. The history of this difficult period comes to life in this modern museum on the edge of Old Town. After extensive renovations, this now, state-of-the-art museum has reopened with a new permanent exhibition ‘Freedom Without Borders’, which looks at occupations, resistance, restoration, and freedom from five different perspectives: crimes against humanity, Estonians in the free world, life in Soviet Estonia, the restoration of independence, and finally - freedom. The exhibition can be self-explored or guided by an entertaining, e-tour guide, available in seven languages (Estonian, Russian, English, Finnish, German, French, Spanish). The fascinating exhibits are punctuated by personal possessions from those that escaped, lived through or were exiled to Siberia during the occupation – bringing a very human element to the situations they faced and how they coped with them. Their stories are also told here, often in their own words, which truly bring their experiences to life. Vabamu also has a special exhibition tailored for children, where different stories are told for different age groups.QA‑6, Toompea 8, tel. +372 668 02 50, www.vabamu.ee/en. Open 14:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-18:00. Admission €11, reduced €7, family €23. Joint ticket with KGB Prison Cells available. Y Autumn 2020

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Sightseeing Museums When you’ve finished learning about Estonia’s history, there are many speciality museums to explore, many of which are located in the Old Town. Explore every topic, from food and health, to marzipan and music. You are sure to find something interesting for both kids and adults alike.

Children’s Museum Miiamilla This hands-on museum just for kids is located in the beautiful Kadriorg Park and is especially geared towards children between the ages of 3 and 11. The playful and often practical exhibits are constantly changing, with active themes so that the little ones are sure to be stimulated to the point of exhaustion - which we’re sure all parents are sure to appreciate.QM‑7, Koidula 21A, tel. +372 601 70 57, www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamilla.

Open 12:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission €4, reduced €2, family €8. Y Estonian Health Museum This fascinating museum is filled with historic health related artefacts, interactive displays and hands-on exhibits. The top floor of the museum certainly contains some of the most interesting displays such as those concerning sexual health and reproduction, addictive substances and a special section highlighting various parasites and bacteria that live inside us or feed from us. Some of the exhibits are certainly a little creepy, but overall it’s quite an educational and thought-provoking experience. Be sure to check out the virtual hairstyle machine where you can send a photo to yourself via e-mail. Other highlights include the ‘dental’ room and collection of gallstones.QC‑4, Lai 30, tel. +372 505 68 62/+372 511 17 32, www.tervishoiumuuseum. ee. Open 10:00-18:00; Wed 10:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission €8, reduced €5, family €18. Y Estonian Maritime Museum - Fat Margaret After two years of renovation, the Estonian Maritime Museum has finally reopened. The new fascinating permanent exhibition includes a 700 year old shipwreck, something which you certainly won’t see anywhere else. The shipwreck, otherwise known as the cog, was discovered together with almost 800 artefacts back in 2015 in Tallinn. With plenty of interactive parts to exhibition, both young and old can learn about Estonian seafaring from medieval to modern times. The museum is also accessible to those with disabilities, including those who are visually or hearing impaired. The Fat Margaret Tower is the first Old Town tower to have a lift. After a visit to the Estonian Maritime Museum, be sure to continue on to the Seaplane Harbour where you can learn about 20th century maritime equipment. Audioguide available in 6 languages.QD‑3, Pikk 70, tel. +372 620 05 50/+372 673 30 92, www.meremuuseum.ee/paksmargareeta. Open 10:00-19:00. From October open 10:00-18:00, closed Mon. Admission €10, reduced €5, family €20. Children up to 8 years free of charge. Joint ticket with Seaplane Harbour available. Y 16 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Estonian Maritime Museum - Seaplane Harbour The highly interactive Seaplane Harbour, literally, has ‘tonnes’ of reasons why it’s the most popular museum in Estonia. This modern museum is housed in architecturally unique seaplane hangar, which includes structures that were part of the Peter the Great Naval Fortress between 1916-1917. The authentic submarine Lembit from the 1930-s, the century-old steampowered icebreaker Suur Tõll at the marina, the world’s only copy of Short 184 seaplane and many other life-sized exhibits are on display here. You’ll get a chance to take part in maritime history, as well as interact with many hands-on exhibits. Audio guide in 10 languages available. Temporary exhibition ‘1944 THE GREAT ESCAPE’ is on display until January 17, 2021. It is an audio-visual exhibition about twists of fate and escaping across the sea, connecting intriguing stories of people who set sail from different parts of Estonia in a dash for freedom. October 17 - April 25, 2021: Unseen Oceans. October 17 - June 30, 2021: The Baltic Sea in the World Ocean.QJ‑6, Vesilennuki 6, tel. +372 620 05 50/+372 620 05 45, www.meremuuseum. ee/lennusadam. Open 10:00-19:00. From October open 10:00-18:00, closed Mon. Ticket €15, reduced €8, family €30.

Children up to 8 years free of charge. Joint ticket with Fat Margaret available. Y Estonian Museum of Natural History All your favourite taxidermic Estonian, and a few foreign, animals (not to mention dried plants and molluscs) are on display in this renovated three-storey museum designed to introduce nature to entire family. The permanent exhibition ‘Estonian Mires’ gives a brief overview of the origin and life of the mires, and looks different types of bogs and their importance. Don’t miss the chance to embark on a virtual reality adventure and use their AR app to see nature like never before. English language audio guides are available and a small museum shop selling natural Estonian souvenirs is open on the first floor. Until September 30, 2021 a temporary exhibition ‘Terribly adorable bats’ is on display.QC‑3, Lai 29a, tel. +372 641 17 39, www. loodusmuuseum.ee. Open 10:00-19:00. From October open 10:00-19:00, closed Mon. Admission €10, reduced €6, family €22. A joint family ticket for Tallinn Zoo, Estonian Museum of Natural History and Tallinn Botanic Garden is €35 and it may be used on separate days. Y

Estonian Museum of Natural History

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Sightseeing Estonian Theatre and Music Museum After extensive renovations, the Estonian Theatre and Music Museum is open with a permanent exhibition ‘Stories and Songs’. Stories and songs play an important role in every culture; they unite people and preserve our history. The museum tells the story of Estonian history using classic Estonian literature and songs, while at the same time looking at music and theatre in the context of late 19th century education, village life, Estonian independence in 1918, Baltic German power, the church, the Soviet period, and childhood. ‘Stories and Songs’ received the Annual Award of Estonian Museums for Best Permanent Exhibition of 2017. There is also plenty of things to entertain the little ones, like instruments to play and costumes to try on. On the top floor, there is also an attic where children can play until their parents delve into extensive information on the screens. Until November 15 a temporary exhibition ‘VELJO TORMIS – A World Born Of Folk Song’ is on display to celebrate Veljo Tormis’ 90th anniversary. Exhibition mainly focuses on his works based on runic songs.QC‑6, Müürivahe 12, tel. +372 696 86 88, www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission €6, reduced €3, family €12. English language tour available for €30. Y Estonian Museum of Architecture Tallinn’s architecture museum is located in the port area and housed in the restored Rotermann Salt Storage building, itself an architectural curiosity. The permanent exhibit on the main floor features architectural models from the museum’s collection. ‘SPACE IN MOTION: A Century of Estonian Architecture’ exhibition, acquaints visitors with the development of professional Estonian spatial and architectural culture. It encompasses the most important segments of 20th ­ century Estonian architectural history, as well as the more intriguing aspects of contemporary design. A second permanent exhibition ‘Explore Space!’ is geared toward children and young people. The exhibition teaches you how to experience space and grasp the essence of architecture. Located in the basement level of the museum, the exhibition offers different experiences for the senses, inviting everyone to smell and touch architecture and experience it with their whole body. Until November 8: The Obscure World of

the Urbatect. Architectural comics by François Schuiten & Benoît Peeters. Until November 29: Leisure spaces.

Holidays and Architecture in 20th Century Estonia. QE‑3, Ahtri 2, tel. +372 625 70 07, www.arhitektuurimuuseum. ee. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission €6, reduced €4, family €12. Y Museum of Puppetry Arts Look behind the scenes of the fascinating world of puppetry. This interactive museum is fun and educational for the whole family. Visitors can try their hand at being an actor, director, artist, or stage master. Exhibitions feature masks, stage sets, costumes, props, and puppets of all shapes and sizes. Step 50 years back in time and watch old performances and meet the people who used to work at the Puppet Theatre using the Time Machine.

Performances can be enjoyed in the Ferdinand Hall from September to June. QB‑4, Nunne 4, tel. +372 667 95 42, www.eestinoorsooteater.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission €5, family €15. Booking of games, workshops and guided tours for groups should be done at least seven days in advance. Y

Museum of Puppetry Arts

l marks the spot Look for two long cobblestones that make the letter ‘L’ in the corner of Town Hall Square nearest the Raeapteek. This spot marks one of the more bizarre tales from Tallinn’s medieval history. In the late 1600s, so the story goes, a priest named Panicke walked into an inn and ordered an omelette. What he got was ‘hard as the sole of a shoe,’ so he sent it back. The next two that the waitress brought were even worse, and after an argument, the priest decided to make his point by killing the waitress with an axe.

For this unusually violent crime, the priest was swiftly hauled out to the square and beheaded, and the spot was marked for the convenience of future tour guides.

Museum of Estonian Architecture

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Autumn 2020

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Sightseeing Outdoor attractions

Town Fortifications

While the summer might be the best time to be outdoors, that certainly doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the outside in winter. From the Estonian Open Air Museum to the Tallinn Zoo, there are exciting outdoor attractions to discover any time of year.

With 66 towers, medieval Tallinn was known as ‘one of the most fortified burgs in all Northern Europe’. Today 1.85km of the original city wall and 26 towers survive and several of them are open to the public.

Estonian Open Air Museum Put on your hiking boots! This outdoor museum includes a whopping 70 buildings, mostly farm-related, sprawled out across 70ha of forest and land in Rocca al Mare, on the shore of the Kopli Gulf. There are even a couple of windmills, some sheep, pigs, chickens, and you can also take a ride on the horse-drawn waggon or sleigh - depending on the weather. Informative signs in Estonian, Russian, English and German guide you through 150 years of farming history. Sample the pea soup and other traditional and hearty foods at the Kolu Inn (Kolu Kőrts). September 13: Day of Estonian Bread and Autumn Fair. October 3: Onion and Fish Day. Take bus N°21 or 21b from the Viru stop to the Rocca al Mare stop.QF‑7, Vabaőhumuuseumi tee 12, tel. +372 654 91 00/+372 654 91 01, www.evm.ee. Open 10:00-20:00. From September 29 open 10:00-17:00. Ad‑ mission €10, reduced €7, family €20; from September 29 respectively €8, €6 and €16. A joint family ticket for the Tallinn Zoo and Open Air Museum is €17, and it may be used on separate days. Y Tallinn Zoo Tallinn Zoo boasts one of the most impressive collections of exotic species in Northern Europe. In addition to extensive outside exhibits including birds of prey, lynxes and grey seals, you can check out the Pachyderm house, which also features loads of snakes and a couple of pigmy hippos, or duck into the steamy, crocodile and chimp-filled Tropical House. The Amur leopards are also must-sees as they are critically endangered - Tallinn Zoo is a very important and successful part of their international breeding program. The Zoo also features a Polarium that provides a spacious home for two polar bears. Environmental Education Centre and Children’s Zoo can be found near the west gate at Ehitajate tee 150. By public transport it is easiest to enter through the north gate at Paldiski tee 145, just take bus N°21, 21b, 22, 41, 41b or 42 from city centre to the Zoo stop.QG‑9, Paldiski mnt. 145, tel. +372 694 33 00, www. tallinnzoo.ee. Ticket office is open 09:00-17:00, from November 09:00-15:00. Indoor expositions (Tropical house, Pachyderm house) 10:00-18:00, from November 10:00-16:00, closed Mon. Children´s Zoo is open daily 10:00-19:00, from October 10:00-17:00. You are allowed to wander the zoo 2 hours after the ticket office closes.

Admission €8, reduced €5, family €20, from October respectively €5, €3 and €13. A joint family ticket for the Tallinn Zoo and Open Air Museum is €17, and it may be used on separate days. A joint family ticket for Tallinn Zoo, Estonian Museum of Natural History and Tallinn Botanic Garden is €35 and it may be used on separate days. Y 18 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Epping Tower The tower features an interactive exhibition that walks the visitor through the history and development of medieval defence systems. On display are items pertaining to the towers’ history, including suits of armour and complete maps of how the town looked during the 15th-century.

Make sure you climb all the way to the top, the view of Old Town is pretty cool.QC‑3, Laboratooriumi 31, tel. +372 601 30 01, www.epping.ee. From September through April open only on Saturdays and Sundays 11:00-16:00.

Admission €6, reduced €4. Y Fat Margaret’s Tower Originally constructed in the 14th century and arguably one of the top sights in the city, Paks Margareta as she is known to locals, is 82m in diameter and boasts 5m thick walls. At one point, Tallinn’s harbour was just outside the Great Coastal Gate and she certainly provided a formidable defence against any hostile forces trying enter the city here. The tower currently houses the Estonian Maritime Museum, see museum entry for details.QC‑3, Pikk 70. Y Nunne, Sauna and Kuldjala Towers Three of the oldest towers are open to the public, entrance at this spot. Tour hours may vary. Call ahead to make sure they are open.QB‑4, Väike-Kloostri 1, tel. +372 644 98 67, www.kodulinnamaja.ee. Open 14:00-18:00. Admis‑ sion €2. Y Viru Gates The main entrance into Old Town is marked by these beautiful twin gate towers, which are only a fraction of a previous gate structure. The gate entrance was composed of a large tower, walls and the existing two towers. Unfortunately the larger inner gate towers were destroyed, but if you close your eyes we’re sure that you can picture what they would have looked like.QD‑5.

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Sightseeing - Kadriorg & Pirita

Kadriorg Palace and Art Museum. Photo by Kadi-Liis Koppel, visittallinn.ee

Kadriorg area Just a short westerly hike along Narva mnt. brings you to one of the most beautiful districts in all of Tallinn. Kadriorg is home to magnificent parks and gardens, the Presidential Palace and several art museums. Trams N°1 and 3 will also get you there. Once you’ve arrived, nearly everything you want to see is located conveniently on, or just next to, the same short stretch of Weizenbergi. The park also has its own info kiosk located at Weizenbergi 33 across from the Swan Pond.

Kadriorg Palace and Art Museum Italian master architect Niccolo Michetti designed this magnificent, Northern Baroque palace in 1718 at the request of Russian Tsar Peter the Great, who intended to use it as a summer residence for the royal family. The emperor named the estate for his wife Catherine I (‘Catherine’ is ‘Kadri’ in Estonian), hence the name of the area. The palace is now home to the Kadriorg Art Museum. In addition to perusing the nation’s collection of foreign art, visitors get to see the mind-bogglingly ornate Great Hall, and the room upstairs that served as president’s office in the 1930s. Don’t miss the lavish manicured gardens, out back. September 26

Swan pond

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- February 28, 2021: Always by Our Side: Cats and Dogs in 16th to 19th-Century Art.QM‑7, Weizenbergi 37, tel. +372 606 64 00, www.kadriorumuuseum.ekm.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; Wed 10:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission €8, reduced €6, family €16. Joint tickets to all branches of the Art Museum of Estonia available. Y Presidential Palace For a few years during Estonia’s first period of independence (1918 - 1940), the Estonian head of state worked out of the Kadriorg Palace, but in 1938, this purpose-built presidential palace was opened next to it, just up the hill. The Presidential Palace’s style echoes the Kadriorg, albeit without quite so much flourish. Since the building once again serves as the President’s office and residence, it’s closed to visitors, but you can still wander into the parking area for a better view and, if your timing is lucky, you’ll see the honour guards marching out front.QM‑7, Weizenbergi 39.

Kadriorg Park Information Point Looking for a bit more info on the beautiful gardens at Kadriorg Park? Visit the information point to find out about upcoming events or buy a couple of postcards and other souvenirs to take home. QM‑7, Weizenbergi 33, tel. +372 601 57 83, www.kadriorupark.ee. Open 10:00-17:00; closed Tue, Mon. Peter the Great House Museum This humble little cottage’s claim to fame is that this was where Russian Tsar Peter the Great stayed during his visits to Tallinn before his Kadriorg Palace was complete. In fact it’s still filled with Peter’s furniture, portraits and other artefacts from his interesting life.QM‑7, Mäekalda 2, tel. +372 601 31 36, www.linnamuuseum.ee/peetrimaja. Open 11:0018:00; Sun 11:00-16:00; closed Mon, Tue. From October open 10:00-17:00, Sun 10:00-16:00, closed Mon, Tue. Admission €5, reduced €4, family €12. Y Autumn 2020

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Sightseeing - Kadriorg & Pirita

Kumu Winning the title ‘European Museum of the Year 2008’ , Estonia’s largest art museum makes its home in this enormous, cutting-edge facility built into a limestone cliff in Kadriorg. It serves as both a national gallery, displaying treasured works from Estonia’s past, and as a contemporary art gallery, showing the latest trends. While here, be sure to explore the fascinating complex, built by Finnish architect Pekka Vapaavuori. Until September 13: Ando Keskküla. Reality and Technodelics. Until October 4: State of Emergency.

Flo Kasearu. Until January 31, 2021: Ado Vabbe. Wunderbar.

October 10 - March 28, 2021: Egypt of Glory. October 30 - February 21, 2021: Broken Symmetries.QM‑7, Weizen‑ bergi 34/Valge 1, tel. +372 602 60 00, www.kumu.ekm. ee. Open 10:00-18:00; Thu 10:00-20:00; closed Mon. Ad‑ mission €10, reduced €7, family €20. Joint tickets to all branches of the Art Museum of Estonia available. Y Mikkel Museum Housed in the renovated kitchen building on the grounds of Kadriorg Palace and Park, the Mikkel Museum has one of Estonia’s most impressive private art collections. Johannes Mikkel donated his vast collection of European, Russian and Chinese paintings, prints, porcelain and icons to the Estonian Art Museum in 1994. Until November 8: A Personal Century: Mart Lepp’s Art Collection.QM‑7, Weizenbergi 28, tel. +372 601 58 44, www.mikkelimuuseum.ekm. ee. Open 10:00-18:00; Wed 10:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission €6, reduced €4, family €12. Joint tickets to all branches of the Art Museum of Estonia available. Y 20 Tallinn In Your Pocket

russalka monument This striking sculpture of an angel facing out into the sea horizon is a memorial to the 177 men of the Russalka, a Russian military ship that tragically sunk while en route to Helsinki in 1893. Created by famed Estonian sculptor A.H. Adamson, the monument has become a Tallinn landmark and a traditional spot for Russian couples to lay flowers on their wedding day.QG‑6, Across Narva mnt., by the shore.

Pirita area A bit further out from Kadriorg is another district that provides an escape from the downtown bustle - Pirita.

The sprawling district is actually within Tallinn’s boundaries, only a 10 - 15 minute ride from the city centre.

When most Tallinners think of Pirita, they think of the popular beach, which calls for a nice walk even after the beach season is over.

The region has a history that goes back at least as far as the early 15th century, when the now-famous convent was founded on the banks of the Pirita River. Pirita stayed fairly rural through the centuries, but after World War II, partitions of land were given out to Estonians to build homes on, and Pirita began to evolve into the residential district it is today. The 1980 Moscow Olympics also had a major impact on the region. When Pirita was to host the yachting events, image-conscience Soviet authorities built the entire coastal Pirita highway, the TV Tower, an extensive beach house and the Olympic Yachting Centre for the occasion. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing - Kadriorg & Pirita On the way to Pirita, Maarjamäe is a worthwhile stop. Here you’ll find Tallinn’s most monumental war shrines, Maar‑ jamäe War Memorial and the Memorial to the Victims of Communism, as well as the Maarjamäe History Centre (see p. 14).

Getting here is simple. Take bus N°1, 1A, 8, 34A or 38 from the underground stop at the Viru Centre. For the Song Festival Grounds get off at Lillepaviljon stop and for the Maarjamäe museums or memorial area get off at Maarjamägi stop. For the beach, convent or river area, get off at the Pirita stop, which is the first one after you cross the river.

Memorial to the Victims of Communism This striking memorial is dedicated to all Estonian people who suffered under the terror inflicted by the Soviet Union. There are two parts to the memorial - ‘Journey’ and ‘Home Garden’. ‘Journey’ consists of name plaques of all the victims. Apple trees and honey bees are the symbols of the ‘Home Garden’, marking a place for the victims yet to be identified. Estonia was occupied by the Soviet Union from June 17, 1940 to August 20, 1991. More than 75,000 Estonians were murdered, imprisoned or deported over this period. Estonia lost one of every five persons from its population of slightly over one million.QN‑5, Pirita tee 78, www.memoriaal.ee/en.

Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) Located directly between Kadriorg and Pirita, lies one of Estonia’s most important pieces of real estate, the Song Festival Grounds. In June of 1988 these grounds played host to over 100,000 Estonians who raised their collective voices in songs of freedom that would ultimately lead to Estonia regaining her independence after more than 50 years of Soviet rule. Singing has always had an important place in the hearts of Estonians and the first song festival was held in Tartu back in 1869. Currently a Song Festival happens every couple of years, and still plays a huge part of the national identity. When there isn’t a festival happening, the grounds host numerous other events and concerts. If you’d like to take a peek at the historic grounds and the massive bowl structure where the choirs sing, the park is open to the public without an admission fee during non-event times.

QM‑6, Narva mnt. 95, www.lauluvaljak.ee.

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Tallinn Botanical Garden With the richest collection of live plants in Estonia, the gardens are a well-kept secret. Around 8,000 species are arranged on 123ha of land, with large modern greenhouses where you can find displays of tropical, subtropical and desert plants. Take bus N°34A or 38 to the Kloostrimetsa stop.QQ‑4, Kloostrimetsa tee 52, tel. +372 606 26 66, www.botaanikaaed.ee. Open 10:00-19:00. From Oc‑ tober open 11:00-16:00. Admission €5.50, reduced €3, family €10. A joint ticket for the Tallinn Botanical Gar‑ den and TV Tower is €17. A joint family ticket for Tallinn Zoo, Estonian Museum of Natural History and Tallinn Botanic Garden is €35 and it may be used on separate days. See website for further admission info. Y St. Bridget’s Convent ruins Rising up along the banks of the Pirita River, the spectacular ruins of this 15th-century convent make one of Tallinn’s more fascinating historic sights. Founded in 1407 by the Bridgetine Order, the convent was unique in that it housed both monks and nuns. The convent crumbled in a siege by Ivan the Terrible in 1577 and its stones were later carted off to construction projects throughout Tallinn. What remains today are the towering Gothic gable and walls of the main hall, as well as some surrounding foundations and cellars.QO‑4, Kloostri tee 9.

TV Tower Officially opened on July 11th in 1980, the 314m tower was, and is, an imposing example of Soviet engineering.

From its observation deck at the 175m level, which is the highest in Northern Europe, you can see Finland on a clear day. The renovated tower features a museum and a swank restaurant ‘Teletorn’. One of the more exciting features include some pretty freaky floor-windows that you’re encouraged to jump on and you can take full advantage of ‘streaking skyward’ in the lightning-fast elevators. From April through October try out the ‘Walk on the Edge’, which just might possibly be among the most extreme activities you’ve ever done, even though you’re attached to the structure by safety harnesses. A new virtual reality ex‑ perience will take visitors to the spine-tingling adventure of flying around the tower. Until December 31, 2021, a temporary exhibition ‘GENE-IUS’ looks at everything that makes up modern humans, like genes and DNA and genetic codes and more. Take bus N°34A or 38 from the Viru Keskus bus terminal on Narva mnt. to Teletorn stop.

QQ‑4, Kloostrimetsa 58a, tel. +372 59 11 ​93 35, www. teletorn.ee. Open 12:00-21:00. Restaurant open 12:0021:00. Ticket €13, reduced €7, family €27. From October after 19:00 ticket €7 and restaurant admission €3. A joint ticket for the Tallinn Botanical Garden and TV Tower is €15. See website for fur‑ ther admission info. Y Autumn 2020

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Kalamaja - Tallinn’s artsy district

Kalamaja Just a short hop from the Balti jaam train station lies the eclectic and historic district of Kalamaja. The area’s name means ‘Fish House’, referring to its fishing past. Colourful wooden houses, funky shops, cool restaurants and bars, all add to the artsy/bohemian vibe of Kalamaja. (see area J-6/7 on the city map)

One of Tallinn’s last remaining ‘wooden house’ and antiquated industrial districts has seen somewhat of a trendy revival as of late, akin to what happened in the Soho districts of New York or London, albeit on a smaller scale. The revival, as with most cases in developed cities of the world, happened thanks to inexpensive real estate prices and the historic/industrial surroundings. First, the ‘hippies’, bohemians, artists and students set up shop and residence here. Now it seems that everyone wants a piece of the action and as a result real estate prices have gone through the roof over the last few years. What was once home to fishermen, sailors, dock-workers, shipbuilders and factory employees now houses boutiques, some great flea markets, high-brow eateries and a few cool nightspots for Tallinn’s hipsters and trend setters. There are in fact still quite a few industrial complexes and sea-oriented businesses operating in the area due to the proximity of the harbours and rail-lines that still skirt these districts.

Besides being home to some architectural and often derelict delights, Kalamaja has some interesting sights from the fascinating Patarei Sea Fortress and former prison (read more on p. 17), the now world-famous Estonia Piano Factory (J-6, Kungla 41), the 1928 Jugenstil Kalma Sauna 22 Tallinn In Your Pocket

(A-2, Vana-Kalamaja 9a) and Kalmistu Park (J-6), formerly home to Tallinn’s oldest cemetery, which was unfortunately flattened by the Soviets in 1964 to make way for military complexes. Clues to the park’s original purpose exist only in the form of a plaque and a bell tower from the year 1780.

In terms of dining or shopping, one might expect that such an up-and-coming area would be on the pricey side - it’s not. Although quite trendy at the moment, most of the establishments in Kalamaja are much less expensive than those located in Old Town. Hopefully it will stay that way, at least for a little while.

Although there are places to eat and shop scattered throughout the district (with new ones opening up every month), the epicentre of the whole Kalamaja frenzy, including shops, boutiques, handi-crafters, a large flea market, eateries and much of the nightlife scene is headquartered in and around the old Telliskivi factory and warehouse complex, and Telliskivi Creative City (area J-7 on the map, see also https://telliskivi.cc/en and telliskvartal. com). This is probably your best place to start when visiting the district and it’s easily reachable, just around the corner from the far end of the Baltic Jaam market. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Kalamaja - Tallinn’s artsy district Where to eat Kalamaja has seen a boom in the number of restaurants in recent years. Here you’ll find everything from French to Mexican to modern Estonian bistros. Please refer to the Restaurant section for the symbol key.

Boheem One of the first of a whole line of trendy eateries in the area, this bohemian and rather inexpensive café, serves up some hearty breakfast choices, delightful crepes, salads and delicious desserts along with all your favourite caffeinated beverages. Certainly not a ‘fast food’ spot - Boheem is the kind of place for lingering rather than a quick bite. Conveniently located just next door, they also run an artsy pizzeria where they offer up decent Italian-style pizza at an affordable price.QJ‑7, Kopli 18, tel. +372 631 19 28, www.boheem. ee. Open 10:00-22:00. €. B­S­6­W F-Hoone Located in the Telliskivi industrial/warehouse complex and one of the first eateries to set up shop here, F-Hoone is one of those success stories that every wannabe restaurateur dreams of and we rather enjoy it. The food is fresh and usually quite inspired. The atmosphere is certainly industrial and chic, the service attentive and the prices are surprisingly low for the quality and portion size - especially the daily offers. Child-friendly with a decent little play area as well.QJ‑7, Telliskivi 60a/4, tel. +372 53 22 68 55, www. fhoone.ee. Open 09:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-02:00; Sun 09:00-23:00. €€. T­B­W­i Fotografiska Restaurant Fotografiska truly takes care of all your various senses.

Whether you combine your experience with a tour of their iconic photo gallery or merely on its own, their rooftop restaurant is worth every bite. Run by one of Estonia’s top chefs, Peeter Pihel, the eatery is located on the sixth floor of the gallery, and offers great panoramic views of the city.

The restaurant’s concept is ‘sustainable pleasure’, which combines top quality dining using sustainable ingredients and a zero waste philosophy. On Sundays you can enjoy brunch from 11:00-15:00.QJ‑7, Telliskivi 60a/8, tel. +372 57 45 09 22, www.fotografiska.com/tallinn/en/ restaurant/. Open 12:00-23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00-18:00; closed Mon. €€€. B Frenchy This eatery is indeed très French and actually quite stylish, as well as being an affordable option for a delicious and delightfully prepared meal. The menu changes somewhat frequently, but in general the classics always remain. The French onion soup was particularly tasty as were the Parisian gnocchi in an excellent mushroom cream sauce.

Naturally the French wines, beers and ciders are all quite well chosen.QJ‑7, Telliskivi 60A/5, tel. +372 56 04 82 62, www.frenchybistro.wixsite.com/mysite. Open 12:0023:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; closed Sun. €€. P­B­S­ 6­W facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

art and entertainment Fotografiska Tallinn Internationally renowned Fotografiska’s Tallinn location is in the Telliskivi Creative City. The gallery or meeting place is known for bringing the world’s best photography to its walls, and its Tallinn location is no exception.

The aim of this urban meeting place is to redefine the traditional museum space, where visitors are invited to linger and become inspired. Fotografiska includes exhibition and event spaces, a music club, bars (see page 24), café, gift shop, and restaurant (see the listing on left). Current and upcoming exhibitions: until Sep‑ tember 20 Bryan Adams ‘Exposed’; until October 25 Sebastiao Salgado ‘Gold’; September 11 - November 29 Alex Prager ‘Welcome Home’; September 25 - Jan‑ uary 17, 2021 Erik Johansson ‘Beyond Places’; October 30 - February 7, 2021 Anders Petersen ‘Color Lehmitz’; December 4 - March 7, 2021 Evelyn Bencicova ‘Mirror’.

QJ‑7, Telliskivi 60a/8, www.fotografiska.com/Tallinn.

Open 09:00-21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00-18:00.

Admission €15, reduced €12, family €28.

Korsten Kitchen Named after the the large (non-functioning) smoke stack beside the restaurant, Korsten is one of the best meals we’ve had in a long time. It’s the combination of friendly and experienced service, an Mediterranean-inspired menu by a passionate young chef, reasonable prices, and a funky atmosphere that made this an all around great experience. Tip: try the mussels and cockles.QD‑2, Põhja pst. 27a, tel. +372 511 78 11, www.korstenresto.ee. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:0023:00; closed Sun. €€€. P­T­U­B­S­V­6­W Lendav Taldrik Located in the black building towards the end of the Telliskivi Complex, the ‘Flying Saucer’ or ‘Plate’, depending on how you choose to interpret it, is certainly a welcome edition to the area. The interior style is quite excellent - with its rugged good looks, industrial sensibility and just the right amount of comfort, guests here will feel both stylish and at home. The cuisine is kind of an Asian-fusion blend, with definite Indian leanings, and all is certainly tasty to say the least. Decent vegetarian options also available. Fast, friendly service is just a mango on the lassi - so to speak.QJ‑7, Telliskivi 60a/6, tel. +372 621 42 22, www.lendavtaldrik.com. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:0024:00. €€. P­T­U­B­S­V­6­W Autumn 2020

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Kalamaja - Tallinn’s artsy district Kalamaja Nightlife Kalamaja is undoubtedly the hotspot of Tallinn’s nightlife scene. Popular with locals, expats and increasingly, tourists as well.

Kohvik Tops Kind of an artsy-trendy-underground place, Tops is certainly ‘tops’ to over 6,000, primarily locals - at least on Facebook. Hosting a wide-variety of events ranging from live music to film nights and a whole host of other happenings, including something called ‘Femme Fatale’. This nightspot can truly get packed on the weekend nights and the wide-range of the people who hang out here certainly makes for an interesting time. They also offer a decent selection of lite-bites that happen to go well with drinks and the prices are incredibly decent for Tallinn.QA‑1, Soo 15, tel. +372 56 79 63 33.

Open Tue, Wed 16:00-24:00; Thu 16:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 16:00-03:00; closed Mon, Sun. X­E ­L ­6 ­W Odeon This funky bar simply oozes style and comfort. Think upscale diner, though you wouldn’t find any of this food in your typical diner. Their menu features dishes meant for sharing - we really loved the snacks, like filo wrapped merguez sausage and the nduja scotched egg, as well as truffle parmesan fries. The flora and fauna dishes are slightly larger, so if you don’t feel like sharing, these are a generous serving for one. The cocktails are exceptional, especially their selection of gin and tonics. Located a short tram ride towards to Kopli, Odeon is certainly worth the slight detour.QI‑6, Kopli 27, tel. +372 527 27 12, www.odeon.ee. Open 12:0022:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. P­U­ B­S ­V ­L ­6 ­W Põhjala Tap Room Just a short jaunt from the centre, this pub, set in the revived Noblessner Port area is worth the trip. Ranked among the the top 100 breweries in the world, Põhjala has taken the the local craft beer scene by storm - and tours of the brewery can be booked in advance. The spacious tap room boasts an ever-changing selection of craft beers, ciders, and cocktails. Their bustling kitchen churns out some fantastic BBQ, alongside their own take on some classic American smoke-house fare.QJ‑6, 24 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Estonia’s first dedicated craft beer bar

· Over 100 craft beers from the worlds best brewers · Full range of Estonian microbrews · Beer flights · English ciders and botanical soft drinks · Relaxed interior with outdoor terrace ·

Telliskivi 60A · (+372) 5866 4496

Fotografiska Rooftop bar & #snäptäpbar They really know how to keep you entertained at Fotografiska! Whether you prefer a view from the top or a street vibe - you can choose to sip a cocktail at their Rooftop bar offering some great vistas of the city, or on the 1st floor #snäptäpbar, perfect for neighborhood mingling. Both venues offer snack menus and treat you to frequent live music events - check their site for a list of upcoming events.QTelliskivi 60a/8, tel. +372 57 45 09 22, www.fotografiska.com/tallinn/en/baar/. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00.

Peetri 5, tel. +372 56 66 28 00, www.pohjalabeer. com. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 10:00-17:00; closed Mon. U­B ­6 ­W Pudel Baar ‘Bottle Bar’ operates under the philosophy that a decent watering hole should stand on the foundation of great beers, ciders, and other quality beverages.

Fourteen taps serve top quality ales - and many from local Estonian breweries. Given the name, you’ll also find loads of drinks to choose from in the fridges as well. This bar is located in the Telliskivi complex and in keeping with the industrial, atmosphere of the area, is stylish yet industrial in feel. Great terrace in summer (voted one of Tallinn’s finest) for catching rays all day, and night. It can get super busy on weekends, but it’s totally worth a visit.QJ‑7, Telliskivi 60a/5, tel. +372 58 66 44 96, www.pudel.ee. Open Mon, Tue, Wed 16:0024:00; Thu, Fri 16:00-02:00; Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 14:00-24:00. U­B ­I ­S ­6 ­W Sveta Baar This just might be one of the coolest bars we’ve ever been to in Tallinn. New music, parties and culture, top that off with super cool and friendly staff and you’ve got yourself a great bar for an even better night out!

QJ‑7, Telliskivi 62, tel. +372 56 88 91 01, www.sveta. ee. Open Mon, Tue 17:00-02:00; Wed, Thu 17:0003:00; Fri 17:00-05:00; Sat 12:30-03:00; Sun 12:3024:00. Admission €0-10. B­E ­6 ­W tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Noblessner

Photo: Martin Dremljuga.

Just past the fascinating Seaplane Harbour, and Patarei Sea Fortress, the Noblessner Port area (area J-6 on the map) is quickly continuing the development of the seaside in Kalamaja. The historic submarine shipyard is now home to new apartment blocks, boat anchorage facilities, offices, and a growing number of galleries, restaurants, bars and boutiques.

A fascinating history The Submarine shipyard, named after Emanuel Nobel, nephew of Alfred Nobel, and his business partner Arthur Lessner (hence Noblessner), was built in 1912. A total of 12 modern submarines were built here between 1913 and 1917.

Although the production of submarines ceased as Estonia gained its independence in 1918, ship repair and construction continued in the Noblessner area until August 2018. Today, Noblessner has been transformed into a quayside community, open to the public and the sea. It has historical industrial buildings, a seafront promenade, marina and newly developed residential and commercial spaces. Noblessner features cultural events, business, creativity, homes and maritime culture.

Shopping in Noblessner The impressive Shishi store is packed full of inspiring decor for the home. On a smaller, but no less stylish scale, Kalhoj sells Scandinavian-style kitchen and dining room accessories. Treat yourself to jewellery at Baltic Brilliant or pamper yourself at Biomarketi Ilu- ja Tervisetuba, which offers ecological manis, pedis, and facials. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Eating and drinking in Noblessner You’ll find something for every taste and budget at Noblessner, including one of Estonia’s top restaurants (according to the White Guide Nordic). 180° is run by Michelin-starred chef Matthias Diether, so you can expect no less than an unforgettable gastronomic experience (see p.30). Craft beer enthusiasts will not want to miss a visit to Põhjala Tap Room (see page 24). For something quick and casual, head to Patarei Burger (J-6, Staapli 3-111). for a satisfying burger, or some of their tasty ‘loaded’ fries.

Speaking of loaded, the bottom floor of the Kai Art Centre (see page 7) plays host to a plethora of eateries, bars and cafés. Here you can find the unique Japanese gastro bar Kampai owned and chefed by a master of Japanese cuisine - a sushi bar, grill and a replica street bar complete the experience. Another fantastic eatery located under the same roof is the Nordic-style LORE bistro. Delicious delights and hedonistic pleasures await at Kaif bar. Back to Staapli - the newest addition there is HOGO featuring casual Asian cuisine (J-6, Staapli 3, next to Patarei Burger).

And for those looking to stay out a bit later, head to Klubi Hall (J-6, Peetri 6), a nightclub for underground electronic music. But check their Facebook site first to see if they’ve re-opened after the Covid-19 restrictions for nightclubs.

Art and culture in Noblessner Stop in for a good coffee and admire the art at Staapli Art Gallery (see page 44). Kai Art Centre (see page 7), located in the waterfront old factory building is home to a stunning exhibition space, auditorium, and several eateries. PROTO Invention Factory (see page 27) is where virtual reality brings history alive.

Autumn 2020

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Leisure

Super Skypark - where the fun never ends! (see the listing below) Apart from the usual, boring sightseeing tours there are loads of other activities available in Tallinn. And as Tallinn has increasingly become a destination for families, we list plenty of things to do and see that will intrigue both young and old alike - for the tourist it can be a bit of a chore to figure out just where best to take the kids and what activities will keep them occupied.

Entertainment venues From golfing to bowling to shooting, we list a plethora of hands-on activities for the more adventurous tourists to enjoy. Some activities may even result in the loss of hands, but most of those types of adventures require that you sign a waiver and naturally Tallinn In Your Pocket cannot be held liable if you do lose a limb.

Energy Discovery Centre Based in a renovated, over 100-year-old power plant building just opposite Old Town and the first of its kind in the Baltics, the Energy Discovery Centre is the place to discover science with a hands-on approach. The building houses unique historic devices and more than 130 hands-on exhibits dealing with themes such as electricity, magnetics nuclear energy, sound and optics. Perhaps one of the coolest exhibits will actually allow the visitor to experience ‘lighting’ - up close and personal, via the Tesla Coil. They also have a virtual planetarium, temporary exhibitions, interesting theatre programmes and some great workshops (theatre and workshops are available for groups, pre-booking is a must).QC‑2, Põhja pst. 29, tel. +372 620 90 20, www.energiakeskus.ee. Open 12:0018:00. Admission €9, reduced €7, family €25. Y

www.inyourpocket.com 26 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Kuulsaal This ultra-modern, ultra-cool, two-storey club offers the closest bowling to Old Town. Try their blacklight system for a cosmic effect. 12 lanes €16 - 26/hr. They also offer seven pool tables for €6 - 8 per hour.QD‑4, Mere pst. 6, tel. +372 661 66 82, www.kuulsaal.ee. Open 11:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-02:00. Also at: Sõpruse pst. 15, Viimsi, tel. +372 605 11 01, viimsi@kuulsaal.ee. Open 14:00-22:00, Fri 14:00-23:00, Sat 11:00-23:00, Sun 11:00-22:00.

PROTO Invention Factory This Tsarist-era submarine factory in the revitalised Noblessner Port area, is the perfect backdrop for this science museum/virtual reality/invention theme park. With numerous, hands-on, VR goggles-on, mind-blowing main exhibits, numerous smaller attractions and more information than an average brain can handle - Proto is both educational, yet loads of fun, all packed into one very cool space. There’s truly something for every age group to enjoy. Both the young and the young-at-heart, will be inspired and thrilled by this Jules Verne, meets Da Vinci, meets “The Imaginarium of Doctor Parnassus”, Nikola Tesla-esque museum. Their excellent on-site café will also help replenish your mind and body throughout the adventure.QJ‑6, Peetri 10, tel. +372 627 66 61, www.prototehas.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue. Mon, Tue open only for pre-arranged group bookings (min.20 persons). Admission €14, reduced €10, family €32. Y Super Skypark Located at the top of Tallinn’s newest shopping/lifestyle/ experience centre T1, Super Skypark is actually rather super. The largest entertainment facility of its kind in the region, and featuring the largest trampoline area in Europe – it’s a paradise for the young, and the young at heart.

Bumper cars, a 360° cinema, a 7D cinema, the SkyLab mini science centre, the unique in Europe - rooftop ferris tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Leisure

NEWLY RENOVATED

KALEV SPA HOTEL & WATER PARK Aia 18/ Kanuti 2,10111 Tallinn www.kalevspa.ee kalevspa@kalevspa.ee

wheel Skywheel on Tallinn (see Sightseeing section), a relaxing 21+ chill-out lounge just for adults, a café, an eatery, 17 party rooms for kids’ birthday celebrations … your youngsters will forget all about their screens for a good while. Climbing, sliding, jumping, running, crawling, exploring and learning – did we mention this place is super? It’s also exceptionally easy to get to, taking tram N°4 to Ülemiste jaam stop either from the city center or the airport.QM‑8, Peterburi tee 2 (T1 Mall of Tallinn), tel. +372 656 51 15, www.superskypark.ee. Open 10:00-22:00. SkyLab and shop open 11:00-21:00. Daily pass €10, evening pass €5, family €28. Free entrance for up to two accompanying adults who don’t use the attractions. SkyLab’s daily pass €5, family €18. See website for more admission info. Y

Spa & Beauty You don’t have to go far to find pure relaxation and pampering in Tallinn. There are many great spas and salons right here in town, where you will find everything from beauty treatments to saunas. Go ahead, indulge a little.

Aurea Ayurveda Health Centre Aurea is an Ayurveda and massage studio located in the heart of the city where you can come to restore your body’s natural balance with over 20 different types of massage and 10 different types of therapy.QK‑7, Narva mnt.

7d, tel. +372 669 67 73, www.aurea.ee. Open 10:0019:00; closed Sat, Sun. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Kalev Spa Health & Beauty Centre Pamper yourself at this health and wellness centre, which offers a wide range of health and beauty services. Their friendly, experienced and highly trained staff use only the best products and equipment. Choose from a long list of services and indulge in a treatment for your hands, feet, face, or whole body. The centre also offers a variety of rehabilitative and body-strengthening services, including appointments with nurses, localised cold and heat therapy, a salt chamber, light therapy, and ECGs. QD‑4, Aia 18, tel. +372 649 33 50, www.kalevspa.ee.

Open 09:00-19:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Kalev Spa Water Park Kalev Spa has one of the largest indoor water parks in Estonia, as well as the only 50-meter pool in the city. The newly renovated water park includes four slides, children pools, a massage pool, and saunas. The Sauna-Oasis is the newest addition to the complex and is for adults only. Here you can relax in peace and quiet in different jacuzzis and saunas. The fitness centre offers different group workouts and a spacious gym with a view of the pool. You can also book a private sauna with Jacuzzi and private access to the water park (for up to 15 persons).

QD‑4, Aia 18, tel. +372 649 33 70, www.kalevspa.ee/ veekeskus. Open 06:45-22:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-22:00.

Sauna Oasis open 12:00-22:00. For 3 hour visit, the price for adults €14-17, reduced €12-14 and a family ticket (2 adults plus up to 3 children) is €45-49. 1.5 hour admission also available.

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Restaurants

Have you got a craving? Head to Allee! Read more on page 32.

In Tallinn it seems they grant a new restaurant licence every week and sometimes we do miss one, but we’ve tried our best to make recommendations. Service in restaurants is improving for the better, but it’s still not perfect. Due to the popularity of food delivery apps, like Bolt Food and Wolt, waiting times may be longer than usual, even if the restaurant appears to be empty. In pubs, you’ll likely need to order and pay at the bar.

Service in the centre is nearly always English-speaking and foreign-language menus are the rule - although, the words may not always be spelled correctly. VAT (20%) is always included and a gratuity should never be added to the bill. Please check the Kalamaja section on page 23 for more area specific restaurants listings.

Estonian There are two classes of ‘Estonian’ restaurants - new Estonian cuisine and traditional. The traditional fare consists of a lot of heavy pork dishes, herring and potatoes, sauerkraut, etc. The new cuisine is usually a fusion of traditional and international/Nordic cuisines along with the chef’s own vision of what Estonian cuisine should be. These eateries use primarily fresh, local and often organic ingredients wherever possible. Both have their own merits - the traditional cuisine will leave your belly warm and full and the new will usually be more of a feast for your senses.

Farm Looking into the window of this eatery you might kind of wonder what on earth is happening here. A table all set up with a wild boar and wolf eating dinner enjoying wine, they are surrounded by their friends Mrs Fox and Mr Raven. Certainly a scene not likely witnessed before - but also something that begs you to at least have a peek inside. The elaborate restaurant is all decked out with birdcage chandeliers and rustic elements mixed with a certain amount of elegance. The open kitchen allows you to see the chefs at work preparing some delicious meals - add to it some great artisan breads and their own craft-beers 28 Tallinn In Your Pocket

SYMBOL key T Child-friendly

J Old Town location

6 Pets allowed

U Facilities for the disabled

E Live music

X Smoking area

S Take-away

V Home delivery

L Free parking

P Air-conditioning

W WiFi

Y Partner of Tallinn Card

and the whole thing comes together quite nicely.QC‑5, Müürivahe 27B, tel. +372 517 32 61, www.restaurant. farm. Open 12:00-22:00. €€€. P­U­B­I­S­J­W Kaerajaan Named after a popular national folk dance, this is an Estonian-themed restaurant with a modern twist. It consists of a café on the main floor and a slightly more formal restaurant in the top floor. You won’t find any of the traditional, national dishes on the menu, however you will be pleased to discover many Estonian ingredients sporting an haute cuisine style. Check out the upstairs toilet for a truly architectural experience.QC‑5, Raekoja plats 17, tel. +372 615 54 00, www.kaerajaan.ee. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. Please check the website for Oct - Nov opening hours. €€€. P­T­B­S­J­6­W Stenhus Restaurant Schlössle Hotel’s restaurant is a combination of old world elegance and modern style, rolled into an Estonian dining experience. The menu focuses on the perfect balance between food and fine art, and the creative flair of head chef Timofei Monahhov truly shines. With produce and foods, up to 90% of which are farmed, fished or to tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants price guide Based on the average price of a main course. €

Up to 7 euros

€€€ 14 - 19 euros

€€

8 - 13 euros

€€€€ Over 20 euros

Raekoja plats 17 (Town Hall Square 17) +372 615 5400 SÖE

be found throughout Estonia or her waters - the Stenhus team of culinary artists are able to turn the most mundane or misunderstood ingredients into delicious, edible works of art. The results are a feast for the eyes and the palate. Be sure to explore the divine courtyard - weather, and season permitting.QC‑4, Pühavaimu 13/15, tel. +372 699 77 80, www.stenhusrestaurant.ee. Open 13:00-22:00. Break‑ fast 07:00 - 10:30. €€€. P­X­B­I­S­J­6­W­i SÖE Set in the historic Three Sisters Hotel, this fine-dining establishment brings Nordic/Nouveau Estonian cuisine to the next level. Owned and operated by a decorated young chef, and a high energy, well-credentialed sparkle of a human being - their combined attention to detail and commitment to perfection is admirable. ‘Coal’ offers up wonderfully prepared cuisine inspired by the Estonian nature, the fresh local ingredients are truly satisfying and appreciated. Head chef Pavel Gurjanov, his excellent team, their love for food, and all the elements that go into executing and presenting their masterful dishes is quite evident. The ambience is also befittingly elegant - modern and bright, and leaves guests feeling comfortable dressed to the nines, or dressed down.

Eating here is not so much about satisfying ones hunger, it’s

www.kaerajaan.ee an adventure for all five senses.QC‑3, Pikk 71/ Tolli 2, tel. +372 630 63 55, www.soerestoran.ee. Open 12:00-22:30.

Breakfast buffet (€22) 07:00-12:00, Sat, Sun 08:00-12:00. €€€€. P­U­B­J­W­i Von Krahli Aed If you’re looking to please many diners with diverse diets, Von Krahli Aed is the place to come. Located in a cosy and romantic medieval building in the Old Town, the “Garden” is a not a vegetarian restaurant, but the focus of the menu is certainly on vegetables. Ingredients are local and organic, including the wines.QB‑5, Rataskaevu 8, tel. +372 58 59 38 39, www. restoranaed.ee. Open 18:00-23:00; Fri 18:00-24:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. €€. B­S­V­J­6­W

Pikk 71 / Tolli 2 +372 630 63 55 www.soerestoran.ee facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

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Restaurants Fine dining Looking for a romantic night out or a truly exquisite dining experience? These places are worth the splurge.

180° by Matthias Diether If you’re looking for a truly exquisite dining experience, may we suggest a table at 180°, or more specifically, at their Chef’s Table. Located in the historical area of Port Noblessner, the Chef’s Table seats up to 10 people around the open kitchen in the centre of the restaurant. You can watch the ‘kitchen stage’ while a six-course tasting menu, created by Michelin starred chef Matthias Diether and his team, is prepared and served. Alternatively, you can book a regular table and choose between a six- or four-course tasting menu. And be sure to opt for the wine pairing.

The menu is internationally-inspired, using innovative techniques and the best produce Estonia has to offer.

The food is truly a feast for the senses. Dinners last from 2.5-3.5 hours, depending on the number of courses. Bookings recommended. QJ‑6, Staapli 4, tel. +372 661 01 80, www.180degrees.ee. Open 18:00-23:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. P­U­I­L­W Dominic The historic Dominic has two different faces - an elegant ‘black & white’ café in the front and a luxurious restaurant in the back. The café is a great place to nibble on a slice of cake while enjoying a rich espresso or to even indulge in one of the light bites on offer. For a more formal experience, table cloth napkins and all, the restaurant might just fit the bill - and cost a few too.QC‑4, Vene 10, tel. +372 641 04 00, www.restoran.ee. Open 12:00-23:00; closed Sun. €€€. X­B­J­6­W Gloria Gloria has been synonymous with class and style since it opened in 1937, and once you get a look at the intricate, pre-war interior, you’ll understand why this was the restaurant of choice for the Pope and several visiting heads of state. In case you need more convincing, Condé Nast named Gloria one of the world’s 100 best. We found our meal here a relaxing, well-orchistrated experience.QC‑6, Müürivahe 2, tel. +372 640 68 00, www.gloria.ee. Open 17:30-23:30; closed Sun. €€€. S­J ORE Located in a stunning Old Town location with high arched stone ceilings, the atmosphere at ORE is intimate in the large dining hall. This is a meal you want to save for when you truly want to indulge. Start with a few of the “snacks” to whet the appetite and then move through the courses.

The pan-fried veal sweetbreads are divine (if you’re into that sort of thing), and the hangar steak with onion-liquorice cream is a real treat. Vegetarians won’t be disappointed either with the selection of veggie dishes.QC‑3, Olevimägi 9, tel. +372 611 72 90, www.orerestoran.ee.

Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. €€€. B­J­6 30 Tallinn In Your Pocket

American Burgers, Buffalo wings, ribs, BBQ, nachos - whatever your favourite American dish is, chances are you'll find it at one of these places. Now, if only someone would open a proper diner.

Route 33 Grill This American-style restaurant/night-spot is certainly aiming to become the best eatery in its class in Tallinn. We’ve actually had some good conversations with the owners and they’re quite committed to getting everything just right in order to make this the best ‘American-style’ locale in Estonia. From what we’ve experienced so far, ‘Route 33’ just might become a lucky number. We quite enjoyed their burger last time we stopped by and the wings had just the right amount of bite.QC‑5, Suur-Karja 13, tel. +372 602 12 12. Open 11:00-04:00; Fri 11:00-06:00; Sat 12:0006:00; Sun 12:00-04:00. €€. X­B­J­W Texas Honky Tonk & Cantina Beer ads, steer horns, cactus and rowdy conversation - this bar screams ‘Texas’ so loud you might think you’ve walked into one of those old roadhouse movies. Thankfully the ambience is more rock and blues than twangy two-step.

The long menu is mostly U.S. -style Tex-Mex (nachos, quesadillas, etc) with other things like hot wings and a decent selection of vegetarian items thrown in. Not all dishes are as authentic as the Alamo, but enough are to make this a tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants decent destination for homesick Yanks.QC‑4, Pikk 43, tel. +372 631 17 55, www.texas.ee. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-01:00. €€€. B­I­S­J­6­W

Texas Honky Tonk & Cantina

Asian Sometimes you just want a bit of spice! Tallinn’s palate has really come a long way and here you’ll find a great mix of Chinese,Indian, Thai, and everything in between.

Chakra If there’s one thing you should know about Chakra, it’s that the people who envisioned it have a long and successful history bringing innovation and quality to the local dining scene. The atmosphere comes complete with authentic, often naughty, knick-knacks from India. The food is prepared with care, using top-notch ingredients and recipes, some of which only the best chefs from the home country can pull off. In short, we think that it probably won’t be the last time we’ll dine here.QC‑4, Bremeni käik 1, tel. +372 641 26 15, www.chakra.ee. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:30. €€. P­B­S­J­W DimSum Food Club The DimSum Food Club serves up a few versions of this popular Chinese speciality. They do get a bit creative with their dumplings, many of which aren’t exactly Chinese in origin, mainly due to the various fillings in their dumplings - however, the selection we tried were quite tasty. This is actually more of an Asian fusion type place (which isn’t at all a bad thing), also serving miso soup, spring rolls, bao burgers, kimchi, wakame salad etc. QD‑6, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris), tel. +372 55 54 45 60. Open 11:30-19:30. €€. P­U ­S ­6 ­W Elevant This is an exceptional Old Town alternative to medieval theme restaurants. Beautiful décor from the entry foyer’s antique wrought iron staircase to the sparse earthy sheik furnishings make it a place to linger over your meal. The sophisticated East meets West style also extends to the menu, offering a wide selection of innovative, carefully prepared Indian and fusion dishes. Adventurous diners should pay particular attention to the meat selection.

QC‑5, Vene 5, tel. +372 631 31 32, www.elevant.ee.

Open 12:00-23:00. €€. B­S­V­J­6­W facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Guru Restoran Delectable appetisers, pungent curries, and charming decor all add up to what makes Guru so special. Though relatively new to the restaurant scene, Guru is certainly among the top Indian restaurants in Tallinn. The dishes are thoughtfully plated and portions are perfect for sharing.

QAia 10a, tel. +372 611 80 18. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€. P­B­S­J­6­W Very Thai This colourful and flavourful Thai restaurant may be located a bit off the beaten path, but it’s certainly worth the journey.

Run by a husband and wife team, Very Thai makes its guests feel right at home. The menu offers traditional Thai dishes, including some from Butsaba’s home town, as well as an entirely separate vegan menu. QL‑8, Katusepapi 4, tel. +372​ 53 31 77 20. Open 12:00-21:00; Fri 12:00-21:30; Sat 13:0021:30; Sun 13:00-20:00. €€. T­S­6­W

kadriorg area The restaurants listed here are located in the scenic Kadriorg district of Tallinn. Check out our ‘Sightseeing’ section to find out more.

Mantel ja Korsten Named after the mantle chimney in the middle of this quaint wooden house in Kadriorg, Mantel ja Korsten is the place to come if you’re looking for a casual, yet delicious meal. The Mediterranean-inspired menu changes seasonally, and the expertly-chosen wine list compliments the menu well.QL‑7, Poska 19a, tel. +327 665 95 55, www.mantel-korsten.ee. Open 17:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€.

P­B­I­S­V­6­W NOP - shop & café Originally touted as an eco-friendly organic shop and café, this addition to the Kadriorg landscape is certainly fresh and trendy. The food was nicely prepared, presented and we certainly enjoyed the mellow atmosphere while lingering over a coffee. You’ll also be able to find some fresh and interesting food items to take home with you from the shop.QL‑7, Köleri 1, tel. +372 603 22 70, www.nop.ee. Open 08:00-21:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-21:00. €€. T­B­I­S­6­W­i NEW Rudolf Located at the edge of Kadriorg, this French-style restaurant aims to please and they seem to do it quite well. With a chef that has paid his dues at a Michelin star restaurant at the helm, and a team dedicated to details - Rudolf impresses both in terms of style and culinary satisfaction. Bon appetit!QL-7, R.Tobiase 11, tel. +372 53 09 00 13, www.rudolfrestoran.ee. Open 07:30-23:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-23:00; closed Mon, Tue. €€€. P­B­W Autumn 2020

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Restaurants International There are plenty of exciting dining experiences to be had in Tallinn. These are places where the chef plays with the ingredients and combines international cuisines to bring you something a little different. If you’re looking for a casual, yet memorable meal, look no further than this category!

Allee Located inside Kalev Spa Hotel & Water Park, this sleek and modern restaurant offers beautiful views over the park and seating on a large outdoor terrace during warmer months. The internationally-inspired seasonal menu has something for both omnivores and herbivores. We quite enjoyed that herring ice cream and beef carpaccio. Be sure to leave room for dessert, too! A full breakfast menu is served until 11:00 and on Sundays you can enjoy their brunch menu from 12:00 - 15:00. QD‑4, Aia 18/ Kanuti 2, tel. +372 649 30 33, www.kalevspa.ee. Open 12:0022:00. €€€. P­U­B­J­W

Allee

Clayhills Gastropub The first of its kind in Estonia, Clayhills Gastropub has raised the bar high. With executive chef Zvaonekwa (Zvaon) Chamunokara at the kitchen’s helm, the fresh cuisine is more along the lines of a Michelin Star restaurant than that of a pub. Fortunately you won’t have to pay Michelin level prices. The rich interior is heavily garnished with leather and the cellar is well stocked with quality beers and wines alike. The service also comes with a welcoming smile and the atmosphere is brimming with warmth. Situated in the heart of Old Town, Clayhills hosts a spacious outdoor terrace in the warmer months!QC‑4, Pikk 13, tel. +372 641 93 12, www.clayhills.ee. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-01:00. €€. B­E­J­6­W Cru restoran Cru offers up the same quality and service that you would expect from a restaurant whose chef competed at the prestigious Bocuse d’Or competition in 2015. The interior is stylish, the cuisine creative and the staff are ready to serve you. Portions tend to be a little smaller than we personally would like, but perhaps the extra calories aren’t needed anyway. We did however compensate by ordering one of their excellent desserts.QC‑5, Viru 8, tel. +372 32 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Check out Kalamaja section on page 23 for more area specific restaurants.

614 00 85, www.crurestoran.eu. Open 14:00-22:00; closed Sun. €€€. P­B­J­W Pegasus This stylish and trendy, multi-level restaurant has returned to its former home and generally, people have been pretty pleased with their experience here. We found the service to be top-notch, the cuisine fresh and creatively prepared and the atmosphere quite chic. We did think the portion sizes were perhaps a little on the light side, but this gives one a good excuse to sample a few of their offerings.QB‑5, Harju 1, tel. +372 662 30 13, www.restoranpegasus.ee.

Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€€. B­J­6­ W Platz Everything old is new again - or at least in the Rotermanni Quarter it is. It’s here you’ll find this stylish yet elegant eatery nestled into an old, industrial limestone building. The artfully prepared cuisine, is an innovative and fresh fusion of European flavours using local ingredients whenever possible. The service is equally crisp but not too starchy.

We quite enjoyed the duck breast and the crème brûlée on our last visit.QE‑4, Roseni 7, tel. +372 664 50 86, www. platz.ee. Open 11:30-23:00. €€. T­B­S­V­6­W Rataskaevu 16 The service, quality and cosy atmosphere here make it worth coming back to. The cuisine is fresh, imaginative and their home-made artisan bread is in a word delicious. Personally we have a few other spots in and around Old Town that we prefer, however, they do hold the ‘number one’ spot on ‘Tripadvisor’ and have a prime location just opposite the ‘Cat’s Well’. Because of this we would advise making a reservation. They also have a second location around the corner, serving the exact same menu. All-in-all a decent spot for a meal or for a romantic lite-bite and a nice glass of wine.QB‑5, Rataskaevu 16, tel. +372 642 40 25, www.rataskaevu16.ee. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. Also at: C-2, Niguliste 6, tel. +372 601 13 11, vaike@rataskaevu16.ee. €€.

P­T ­B ­S ­J ­6 ­W

Restaurant Pull Opened by one of Estonia’s top grill masters Enn Tobreluts, Pull is another addition to the rapidly growing Rotermann area. The renovated warehouse space certainly fits the vibe of an upscale grill restaurant, with its sleek open kitchen. The menu has a little bit of everything, with some nice seafood dishes, vegetarian and vegan options, and of course great steaks.QE‑4, Rotermanni 2, tel. +372 53 82 50 00, www.resto.pull.ee. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri 12:0024:00; Sat 14:00-24:00; closed Sun. €€€. P­B­S­V­ 6­W tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants pulcinella.ee. Open 12:00-22:30; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€€. P­B ­S ­J ­W

Italian Due, perhaps in part, to the influx of Italian men who have seemingly migrated to Tallinn because of the rather endless supply of long-legged blondes, the city has a plethora of eateries in this category. We’re not complaining though, both the food and the blondes are bella.

Basiilik Pizza & Pasta Attached to the giant cinema house in Rotermann district, Basiilik is a pleasant find. The fresh dishes are inspired by the Mediterranean and European cuisine, adapted to the Nordic taste. With special attention to healthy ingredients, the menu offers good choices for everyone and includes good options for vegans.QE‑4, Hobujaama 5, tel. +372 56 50 99 91, www.basiilik. ee. Open 11:00-22:00. Also at: L-8, Tartu mnt. 87, tel. +372 56 20 21 17. Open 11:00-20:00. €€. P­B ­S ­V­ 6­W­i

Vapiano Foorum Vapiano is a European chain of ‘fresh-casual’ concept restaurants where the tantalising food is prepared right before your very eyes. When you arrive at the door you’re greeted and given a plastic card, then proceed to the open kitchen area or bar where you can place your orders (pasta, salad/antipasti, pizza, drinks) and the items are charged to the card. The majority of mouth-watering food items are fresh and home-made.

That’s right - fresh, pastas are dispatched quite quickly, the pizza doesn’t take too long either, but you’ll be given a pager that vibrates and blinks when your pizza is piping hot. The prices are delightfully affordable and the food – bella!QE‑4, Hobujaama 10, tel. +372 682 90 10, www.vapiano.ee. Open 11:00-23:00. Also at: D-6 Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), solaris@vapiano. ee, tel. 628 59 99. Open 11:00-22:00. Also at: M-8, Suur-Sõjamäe 4 (Ülemiste Centre), ulemiste@vapi‑ ano.ee, tel. 55 54 50 24. Open 11:00-21:00. €€. P­T­ U­B ­S ­6 ­W

Japanese Japanese restaurants offer so much more than just sushi (though there still are plenty of places for sushi). The ramen craze has certainly hit Tallinn, but there are also a few places specialising in regional cuisines that are certainly worth a visit.

Basiilik

Controvento Decorated in a cosy combination of medieval Estonian and rustic Italian, this stylish eatery has been a favourite of expats and locals for years, and deservedly so. The food here is absolutely top notch, with excellent pastas and beef dishes complemented by a good selection of Italian wine. It’s featured in every tourist guidebook, so be sure to make reservations.QC‑4, Vene 12/Katariina käik, tel. +372 644 04 70, www.controvento.ee. Open 12:00-22:00. €€€. P­B ­I ­S ­J ­W Pulcinella Certainly a dining delight, this very authentic, Neapolitan cellar-restaurant pulls all the stops to give you the complete experience. Italian-owned and operated, they also feature a fresh, imported deli counter where one can find top-notch ingredients. We quite enjoyed the cosy, low-key Italian ambiance. The cuisine was also delightful and our pizza was one of the best we’ve had in Tallinn. There are so many layers to explore at Pulcinella and naturally it isn’t all pizza with them, they offer some other tasty and traditional dishes as well as a surprising array of seafood dishes inspired by the Tyrrhenian Sea.QC‑5, Suur-Karja 2, tel. +372 56 22 96 91, www. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Haku This truly authentic Japanese restaurant, located near the US Embassy, is owned and managed by a Japanese chef and his Estonian wife (who also happens to be a Japanese trained sushi chef). The menu is compact and quite traditional - albeit with a certain modern flare and filled with all the tasty delicacies you might want to enjoy from a restaurant in this genre. Everything at Haku is down to the details, homemade soy sauce, fresh seafood and imported Japanese ingredients. Stepping into this eatery is like entering another world. Reservation is highly recommended.QD‑7, Lätte 6, tel. +372 56 31 45 47, www.haku.ee. Open 18:00-22:30; Fri, Sat 17:00-22:30; closed Mon, Sun. €€. B­I ­S ­V ­6 Tokumaru If you’re looking for something a little different than the usual fare, this stylish Japanese restaurant in the centre is both authentic and tasty. They offer a full range of ramen soups, sushi, and other Japanese specialities such as tempura - perhaps the best thing about this eatery though are the prices and value for money combos.

Great daily offers as well.QD‑6, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. +372 57 70 24 05, www.tokumaru.ee.

Open 11:00-19:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-20:00. €€. P­S ­6­ W Autumn 2020

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Restaurants BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH

Mexican There’s nothing like a good taco to cure the munchies. In Tallinn, you’ll find many interpretations, with some chefs even making their own tortillas.

Breakfast at Allee

To help you in your quest for eggs or porridge, or whatever your preferred start to the day may be, we’ve compiled a list of restaurants and cafés serving breakfast and brunch.

Breakfast While it may be regarded as the most important meal of the day, breakfast, especially in a café or restaurant open before 9 am, can be difficult to find in Tallinn.

Some of our favourites in Old town are Allee (page 32, Rukis (see page 37), Kompressor (page 39), Must Puudel (page 37) and Maiasmokk (page 37).

And outside of the Old Town Carmen Café (E-4, Rotermanni 5) and RØST (E-4, Rotermanni 14) in Rotermanni district, Fotografiska café (page 23) and Sesoon (A-2, Kotzebue 18) in Kalamaja, NOP café (page 31) in Kadriorg, and Grenka (K-8, Pärnu mnt 76) in Uus Maailm.

Ancho This eatery is right up there in terms of quality and they happen to care a lot about the end result - ie. tasty and rather authentic Mexican cuisine. If you have a hankering for this type of food then Ancho is probably your best bet.

The jalapeño poppers were both crispy and juicy the last time we ‘popped’ in and the fajitas were very tasty. They also serve food late on Friday and Saturday nights which is a bonus when bar-hopping.QA‑2, Niine 11, tel. +372 53 89 89 26, www.ancho.ee. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00. €€. B­S­6­W Taqueria - Tacos & Drinks Located in the Rotermann City industrial space, the atmosphere at this qausi-Mexican place is both cosy and interesting. While the menu isn’t huge, they feature a lot of the classics (tacos, quesadillas etc.), and all with various meaty fillings - some great veggie options for you herbivores too.

We were thrilled with their hand-made and sufficiently caliente jalapeño poppers, they came with a rather tasty dipping sauce and even a drawn and quartered pineapple!

Unfortunately we didn’t see any handmade tortillas while we were there, perhaps they’ll offer them in the future... hint, hint. Overall we very much enjoyed the experience - some delicious cocktails to suck back as well.QE‑4, Rotermanni 14, tel. +372 56 99 88 98, www.taqueria.ee.

Open 11:45-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:45-24:00. B­S­W

Theme restaurants It’s certainly not unusual to find a medieval restaurant in a medieval Old Town, but did you know that Tallinn even has a pirate-themed restaurant?

Breakfast at Rukis

Sunday Brunch Brunch is growing in popularity in Tallinn. More and more places are offering Sunday brunch menus, either à la carte or as a buffet (though currently restricted).

Be sure to call ahead or check Facebook pages before going, because some places are not consistently offering brunch.

Worthwhile to check out are Allee (page 32), Humalakoda (J-7, Kopli 1), Põhjala Tap Room (page 24), Fotografiska Restaurant (page 23), R14 (E-4, Rotermanni 14) and Sesoon (A-2, Kotzebue 18).

34 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Olde Hansa Many frequent travellers would say that you haven’t really been to Tallinn unless you’ve visited Olde Hansa. This Mecca of mediaevalism in the heart of Old Town doesn’t just serve historically authentic fare made from carefully researched recipes, it provides guests with a whole experience using a combination of candlelight, waiters and waitresses in period costume and medieval background music. Chamber musicians round out the ambience every night of the week.QC‑5, Vana turg 1, tel. +372 627 90 20, www.oldehansa.com. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:0023:00. €€€€. U­B­I­E­J­6

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials app tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants Peppersack Peppersack makes wonderful use of the 15th-century building it calls home - both the vast main hall and the more intimate rooms further back exude comfy medieval-ness. The menu is European-based, with hearty dishes to satisfy any palate. The fresh, hot rolls are a nice touch.

Every day around 20:30 there’s a theatrical sword fight in the main hall. Great terrace in the summer.QC‑5, Viru 2, tel. +372 646 68 00, www.peppersack.ee. Open 09:0023:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-24:00. €€€. P­T­B­J­6­W­ Y­i

street food

Vegetarian & Vegan Vegetarian and vegan foods has grown in popularity over the last few years, so much so that your veggie options are so much more than potatoes or dhal or veggie stir frys. You will find at least a few vegetarian/vegan options at most restaurants or even full menus at some of Tallinn’s vegan establishments.

Rohe Kohvik This bustling vegan café tries to be green in everything it does from its no-waste food policy to its biodegradable packaging. The menu boasts a vegan take on classic dishes - from their ‘tšiken tsaesar’ to their corn bites with ‘cheeze’ jalapeno sauce. We absolutely loved the ‘tsaesar’ salad and a cup of spicy ginger turmeric tea.

For something a little bit more filling, try the teriyaki ‘tšikin’, Rohe Kohvik’s most popular dish. Service is friendly. The interior is light and modern, and we were told that there are plans for a rooftop terrace.QA‑3, Kopli 4, tel. +372 437 00 95. Open 12:00-21:00. €.

P­B ­S ­V ­L ­6 ­W Toormoor Toormoor Probiotic smoothie or avocado cake, anyone?

Toormoor is essentially a vegan cake café (hence bakerylike hours) that happens to have a fantastically dreamy, old gallery-style interior. The limited food menu means this place isn’t so much about filling up at mealtimes as it is about slow, caffeinated contemplation and satisfying your sweet tooth. The only danger is that once you try one cake, you might be tempted to try them all.QC‑3, Sulevimägi 1, tel. +372 502 70 35, www.toormoor.ee.

Open 09:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-18:00; closed Mon. B­S ­J Vegan Restoran V Sure, V fills a niche, but people don’t come here just because it’s vegan, they come because it’s good. We found the service helpful, the medieval-meets-rustic décor charming and the prices friendly, especially for Old Town.

It was the food itself we liked the best though, with inventive dishes like fishless fish burger with oven baked sweet potato that is surprisingly filling. Small and popular, so book a table in advance.QB‑5, Rataskaevu 12, tel. +372 626 90 87, www.veganrestoran.ee. Open 12:00-23:00. €.

B­S­V­J­6­W facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Who doesn’t love good street food? Perhaps an oversized burger oozing some signature sauce or something that reflects local cuisine with a name you can’t pronounce… Whatever your flavour, there’s plenty to explore right here in Tallinn.

Street food is a great way to get a sense of local food culture without committing to an entire meal in a restaurant. While Tallinn isn’t quite yet overrun with food trucks like many other cities of the world, we still have our fair share of street food where you can taste the flavours of the world without spending a fortune.

You’ll find a few street food options in the Old Town.

Medieval-themed III Draakon (C-5, Town Hall) has been enticing tourists with its unforgettable elk soup and fresh pies for years. Due to popular demand, Baojaam (D-5, Müürivahe 50) opened a second location on Müürivahe, with a slightly longer menu than at it’s Balti jaam market location. FishBish (E-5, Viru Väljak 6), a fish and chips takeaway in Viru Keskus, let’s you choose your own combo, including some excellent vegetarian and gluten-free options.

The one-stop-shop for street food is hands down the Baltic Station Market. The ever-growing street food section of the market offers everything from sushi and dumplings to fried chicken and burgers. Just outside of the market is Depoo, a collection of old train cars and containers that have been turned into small restaurants and takeaways. Check the full listings in Shopping section (page 47).

Some of the first places to start offering street fare were Papa Joe (K-6, Sadama 25, Sadama market) and Bueno Gourmet (J-7, Telliskivi 60a). Still going strong, Papa Joe offers some of the best falafel and kebabs in town, as well as a good selection of Middle Eastern dips, spreads and olives to take away. Bueno Gourmet, a food truck located in the Telliskivi area, serves up tasty tacos, burgers, wraps and sandwiches.

Autumn 2020

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Restaurants

World Cuisines The international community is growing in Tallinn, which means a growing number of international restaurants to try.

Argentiina Certainly worth the brief walk from Old Town, this well-established, popular and slightly swank restaurant where South American cooks grill slabs of steak and fish right within view of one of the dining areas - is certainly a ‘cut above’ many other eateries in town. From the service to the kitchen staff, one gets the impression that everyone working here truly puts a lot of pride into what they do and it definitely shows in the end result. Prices are decent especially given the overall experience. We quite enjoyed our grilled rib-eye steak and home-made jalapeno poppers with a twist.QK‑8, Pärnu mnt. 37, tel. +372 660 51 77, www.argentiina.ee. Open 12:00-24:00. Also at: L-7, Lootsi 8, +372 66 05 178. Open 12:00-24:00. €€€. P­X­B­S­6­W Beer House In keeping with its beer-drinking theme, the menu at Old Town’s only micro brewery lists three different kinds of sausages alongside all sorts of other foods that go great with beer - naturally pizza and some juicy grilled items are also available. The real reason to stop in though is the beer-hall ambience and the unpasteurised, home-made, living beers, which come in seven different varieties. If you’re a cheese gourmand, also check out Rae Meierei, next door (see re36 Tallinn In Your Pocket

view under New Nordic category).QB‑5, Dunkri 5, tel. +372 58 19 06 70, www.beerhouse.ee. Open 12:00-22:30; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00-24.00. €€€. P­X­B­S­V­J­W Kuldmokk Located at the base of Toompea, this small restaurant offers delightfully prepared seafood dishes (with some meat too) and a wonderful selection of wines by the glass to pair with them. The rustic, yet modern interior makes for a lovely place to spend an evening or enjoy their garden terrace in warmer weather.QJ‑7, Falgi tee 3, tel. +372 56 00 41 71, www.kuldmokk.ee. Open 17:00-23:00; closed Sun. €€€. P­B­I­L­6­W new Zaiqa restaurant & takeaway With limited seating, this spot is decidedly more of a takeaway/delivered to your door kind of restaurant. That being said, they truly do make excellent, authentic Pakistani dishes - alongside delicious ‘doner kebabs’ and very good pizza, totally unique in Tallinn. The fact that they are also open late and the prices very reasonable, is just icing on the cake. QD‑4, Aia 10, tel. +372 884 00 00. Open 12:0002:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-06:00. P­S­J­6­W

Read more reviews online: tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Cafés Ranging from full on eateries, to quaint little coffee nooks that serve up a few pastries and cakes - Tallinn has a lot to offer if you’re looking for a café. With our comprehensive list, we’re sure you’ll find the right one for you.

Classic cafés The staple formula of a bunch of little, round tables and a pastry counter has served Tallinn well for years. It’s not that these places don’t have ambience - they do, but they’re more for grabbing a bite on the run than for settling in.

Gustav Café If your in the mood for great cakes, pastries or an excellent cup of coffee - Gustav will probably satisfy your cravings. This nice little café at the bottom of the Solaris Centre treats their baked goods with serious respect and they try to put positive thoughts into everything that goes into their ovens. The staff are also quite friendly which certainly helps make a visit to Gustav an enjoyable experience.QD‑6, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. +372 672 27 22, www.gustavcafe.ee. Open 09:0019:00. P­U ­S ­6 ­W Kehrwieder One of the best cafés in town for ambience, Kehrweider is a snug warren of cave-like stone rooms filled with quirky, old furniture. Excellent gourmet coffees, handmade chocolates and the Town Hall Square location are other plusses, but be warned it can get crowded here.

QC‑4, Saiakang 1, tel. +372 55 56 72 03, www.kohvik. ee. Open 08:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-01:00. B­S ­J­ W­Y Maiasmokk Tallinn’s oldest café, the Sweet Tooth has been serving marzipan and other treats since it opened way back in 1864. Drop in for elaborate cakes, cheap coffee, and an amazing, pre-war interior.QC‑4, Pikk 16, tel. +372 646 40 79, www.kohvikmaiasmokk.ee. Open 08:00-21:00; Sun, Sat 09:00-21:00. S­J Pierre Chocolaterie People squeeze into this quaint, frilly, 19th-century style café for two reasons: One is that it has its own master Chocolatier who cooks up truffles from scratch, and the other is the unbeatably cosy atmosphere. Be warned that seats fill up fast and that during slow times they occasionally close a little early.QC‑5, Vene 6 (in the Masters Courtyard), tel. +372 641 80 61, www.pierre.ee. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-23:00. B­S ­V ­J ­6 ­W Reval Café This rustic Old Town café invites you to stop in for a quick bite or relax with a good cup of coffee and a piece of cake.

Their menu offers everything from warm meals to gelato.

QC‑5, Vene 1, tel. +372 644 64 73, www.revalcafe.ee.

Open 08:30-19:00. €. U­I ­E ­S ­J ­6 ­W facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Modern cafés Tallinn’s most en vogue cafés all offer full meals as well as the satisfaction that you’re with the ‘in’ crowd. These classy establishments are best for long chats with friends, romantic encounters and discussions about your next novel.

Kohvik Komeet This gem of a café located in the sparklingly modern Solaris centre has great views, fresh foods and above all, killer desserts. Did we mention the awesome desserts? Because if you come here you should really try some of their excellent desserts.QD‑6, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. +372 614 00 90, www.kohvikkomeet.ee. Open 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:0021:00. €€. P­T­U­B­S­6­W Must Puudel The Black Poodle is a funky, retro eatery with a heavy Soviet living-room feel and a cosy, retro atmosphere that seems to be its main draw. The fresh cuisine is kind of a blend between trendy and home-style, the prices won’t bankrupt you and there are even live entertainment events held some weekends. It certainly can get quite busy during the lunch rush and some evenings, just keep that in mind.QC‑3, Olevimägi 7, tel. +372 505 62 58. Open 09:00-23:00; Wed, Thu 09:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-02:00. €. P­B­E­S­J­6­W­i Ruby Ruby, located in the Rotermann Quarter, is one of two kosher restaurants in Tallinn. We’re particularly excited about the bagels, although on the pricey side, are pretty great.

Eat in or take away bagels, salads and various other bits and pieces. A good choice if you’re looking for something fast and fresh!QE‑4, Rotermanni 2, tel. +372 56 79 11 11. Open 09:00-18:00; closed Sat. €.

Rukis Attached to the popular Estonian restaurant Farm, enjoy a great selection of cakes and pastries, as well as Rukis’ own house-made black bread. In addition to the delectable baked goods, Rukis also offers hearty breakfast options, as well as a full menu throughout the day. QC‑5, Viru 11, tel. +372 517 32 61, www.rukis.ee. Open 08:00-20:00. €€. P­U­B­S­ J­W­i Autumn 2020

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Nightlife

One could get the impression that Estonians are hopeless party animals. For a town its size, Tallinn has a suspiciously high number of bars and nightclubs. But for foreign visitors, this just means there’s more variety on offer. This section is designed to help you pick the nightspot that suits your mood, whatever that may be.

Please keep in mind that many of the bars, lounges and pubs we have listed also offer extensive menu’s and are usually open at noon - making some of them quite viable options for lunch or dinner.

Expat hangouts Whether or not you consider it a stamp of approval, these bars and pubs are where Tallinn’s expats, a fare share of locals that like to speak English and more than a few tourists, tend to congregate.

Clayhills Gastropub Serving up gastronomical delights both by day and night, this is a great place to hang out in a relaxed atmosphere. Clayhills, situated in the heart of the Old Town offers up an excellent selection of local and imported beers, heart-warming and creative pub cuisine and a healthy dose of live music on weekends. If you’re looking for a more intimate experience, you can check out the cosy upstairs on the 2nd floor. Watch Tallinn pass you by from one of the window seats, or from the large outdoor terrace in the warmer months!QC‑4, Pikk 13, tel. +372 641 93 12, www.clayhills.ee. Open 12:0024:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-01:00. B­E ­J ­6 ­W Mad Murphy’s Mad Murphy’s is everything you’d expect from an Irish Pub and a whole lot more. Featuring a well-ventilated smoking room, a dance-floor, more large-screens than you can shake a stick at and some fantastic live music on weekends, Murphy’s can certainly get quite ‘mad’ any night of the week. They also serve up an excellent 38 Tallinn In Your Pocket

SYMBOL key 6 Pets allowed

J Old Town location

I Fireplace

U Facilities for the disabled

E Live music

X Smoking area

S Take-away

L Free parking

B Outside seating N Payment in cash only W Wifi

Y Tallinn Card partner

variety of your favourite pub grub. Great selection of beers on tap. Murphy’s currently has a whiskey corner and one the largest selection of whiskeys in Estonia. A sampler menu also available for the whiskey connoisseur.QC‑4, Mündi 2, tel. +372 601 10 70. Open 12:0001:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-03:00; Sun 11:00-02:00. X­B­ E­J ­W Nimeta Baar (The Pub with No Name) In case the flags hanging out front don’t give it away, Nimeta is the quintessential expat bar. At times it looks like something between a British stag party hangout and an expat boys’ club, but a good number of locals and traveller types make it more interesting, especially on weekends when DJs get people into the dancing mood. One of the best paces in the city to watch to watch live broadcast sports events on one of their many screens. If you’re into Indian cuisine they also offer some truly excellent curries for rather reasonable prices, and make sure to check out their daily dish during the week.QC‑5, Suur-Karja 4, tel. +372 641 15 15/+372 56 49 14 91, www.nimetabaar.ee. Open 11:00-05:00; Mon, Tue 11:00-03:30; Sun 11:00-04:00.

X­U ­B ­J ­W tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife how to toast in estonian If you want to get in good with the locals, it never hurts to learn how to toast in the national language.

Luckily it’s fairly simple here: Estonians toast by clinking their glasses and saying ‘Terviseks’ (health). It’s crucial, however, that you look your drinking companion in the eye just as your glasses are clinking. If you miss this step, the toast doesn’t count and you’ll have to start all over!

Bars & Pubs Assorted watering holes, each with its own style.

Kompressor Students in particular seem to be drawn to this simple, unassuming bar with oversized tables and cheap drinks.

Kompressor is also locally famous for its excellent pancakes, which are both cheap and filling. Kitchen closes at 22:00.QB‑5, Rataskaevu 3, tel. +372 646 42 10, www. kompressorpub.ee. Open 11:00-22:00. N­J Route 33 Bar Restaurant by day and bar/nightclub after dark, this very lively locale is situated on Old Town’s main bar street. The atmosphere has an air of being a bit of a ‘meet market’ but that’s kind of the point. Lots of big screens so you can catch the latest premier league matches, special events, a dance floor, beautiful girls and live music kind of pull it altogether. If you have a hankering for some decent ‘Yankeestyle’ food, their kitchen is also open late.QC‑5, Suur-Karja 13, tel. +372 602 12 12. Open 11:00-04:00; Fri 11:0006:00; Sat 12:00-06:00; Sun 12:00-04:00. X­B­J­W Scotland Yard An absolute monster of a pub just outside Old Town, Scotland Yard earns praise for its quaint Victorian-library/police-department interior, which even includes toilets done up like electric chairs! It can get rather busy on weekend nights, so bring along some patience, grab a seat when you can and slam a few back before heading out to one of the numerous clubs in the area. Live music nights from Tuesday to Saturday.QD‑4, Mere pst. 6e, tel. +372 653 51 90, www.scotlandyard.ee. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. B­E­W St. Patrick’s The name and décor may be Irish, but the crowds in each of Tallinn’s four St. Patrick’s pubs are just about as Estonian as they come. All offer decent, cheap food, and every fourth Saku Originaal is always free. The one on Pikk is situated in a gothic house from the 15th century. The 600year old house is worth exploring, especially with a pint in hand.QC‑4, Pikk 45, tel. +372 641 81 73, www.patricks. ee. Open 11:00-23:30; Fri, Sat 11:00-02:00. Also at: G-3, Narva mnt 5, tel. 664 04 43. Open 10:00-23:30, Fri, Sat 11:00-02:00. J­6­W facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Texas Honky Tonk & Cantina Respectably busy (but rarely packed) on a given Friday night, Tallinn’s Texas-style cantina is a casual place to knock back a corona while tapping your foot to the twangy country/rock or old blues played in the stereo.

Monster portions of fries will kill even the worst munchies.QC‑4, Pikk 43, tel. +372 631 17 55, www.texas.ee.

Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-01:00. B­I ­E ­S­ J­6 ­W The Highlander The only Scottish pub in Tallinn, this intimate little cellar venue stocks the largest variety of Scottish beers and the largest selection of whiskeys in Estonia. If you have a hankering for some of Scotland’s favourite bar foods, you’ll also find them at the Highlander. Deep-fried ‘haggis-baws’, sausage rolls, scotch eggs and deep fried mars bars make this the right place if you’re planning on throwing your diet into a deep ‘loch’. Occasional live music on weekends and some excellent whiskey based cocktails and moonshine as well. ‘Lets get pissed!’.QC‑5, Kuninga 1, tel. +372 58 83 61 20. Open 17:00-03:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-07:00; Sun 12:00-03:00; closed Mon. X­B­ J­W Check out Kalamaja section on page 23 for more area specific Nightlife spots.

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Nightlife Beer bars A few years ago it was difficult to find beers of exceptional character or quality in Tallinn. A few individuals and establishments certainly changed that and now it’s actually hard to find a decent bar that doesn’t serve up great imports and local craft brews. Some however go the extra mile, if you happen to be a beer connoisseur check these places out.

Artsy/underground The raw underbelly of Tallinn's music and art scene will be appealing only to more adventurous travellers.

Depeche Mode bar Vilnius has its Frank Zappa statue, so it’s only fair that Tallinn has this bar dedicated to Depeche Mode. For normal humans, this is just a friendly dive bar stuffed with fan memorabilia. But if you’re a true DM fan, this is all you ever wanted, all you ever needed.QB‑4, Voorimehe 4, tel. +372 631 43 08, www.depechemode.ee. Open 18:0002:00; closed Mon. Age restriction 18+. X­E­J­W Nāganaga This cosy bar/restaurant offers quite a few vegetarian/ vegan options, perfect for snacking on while sipping one of their many unique craft beers. We’ll definitely be back to try some more things from the menu. In summer, enjoy a large street-side terrace.QC‑3, Uus 25, tel. +372 660 25 59. Open Wed, Thu, Fri 17:00-02:00; Sat 14:00-02:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun. €€. B­J TUUM This tiny café-bar sandwiched between galleries has been a popular meeting place for artists and artsy types since 1935. While the café opens early for coffee and fresh pastries, don’t let the opening hours fool you. Come here in the evenings for some great snacks and a glass of wine or cocktail after a night at the theatre and enjoy jazz, soul and pop music as well.QC‑6, Vabaduse väljak 8, tel. +372 644 59 26, www.tuumcafe.ee. Open 09:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-18:00. B­J­6­W Valli Baar The Valli is definitely one Tallinn establishment you need to check out. Let’s just say that it is so full of ‘local colour’, it even had a documentary made about it. It’s also a well known fact that attractive blondes often head here for the house speciality ‘Millimallikas’ cocktail before trawling for men over at Club Hollywood. This bar undoubtedly makes it seem cool to be a dirty old man.QC‑5, Müürivahe 14, tel. +372 641 83 79. Open 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00.

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Beer House So, how much German oompah music can you stand?

Just teasing, they do play other beer-drinking favourites as well. This enormous, old-fashioned, Bavarian-style beer hall is something of a landmark in Tallinn. That said, the sprawling restaurant just off Town Hall Square is also Old Town’s only micro brewery, serving seven very decent in -house varieties of live beer.QB‑5, Dunkri 5, tel. +372 644 22 22, www.beerhouse.ee. Open 12:00-22:30; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. P­X­B­S­V­J­W

Beer House

BrewDog Tallinn Brewdog is perhaps one of the most famous craft-beer establishments in the world of brew. Now with a pub in Tallinn and located in a fantastic old industrial site, Brewdog continues to bring great brews to a larger audience. In addition to various merchandise they also offer signature Brewdog snacks and some warm and tasty flammkuchen made by their neighbour just a few doors down. You can also try the hot dogs from TapTap next door. You can find a few terrific beers from other producers on tap here as well. Truly a must visit for beer lovers.QE‑4, Rotermanni 2, tel. +372 557 97 87, www.brewdog.com/bars/global/ tallinn. Open 17:00-24:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 14:00-02:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. Age restriction 18+. B­6­W Hell Hunt If you just want to grab a beer with friends and avoid the tourist scene, Hell Hunt (The Gentle Wolf) is probably your best bet. An open, comfortable drinking establishment with a strong sense of style, it pulls in the locals by the droves with its no-nonsense atmosphere. While here, try the pub’s own brand of light, dark, ale and wheat beer (brewed by Viru Õlu) or one of their other 130-140 beers.

Decent, cheap food too.QC‑4, Pikk 39, tel. +372 681 83 33, www.hellhunt.ee. Open 12:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 12:0002:00. X­B­I­E­J­6­W tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

CIGAR SHOP & LOUNGE & BAR

HAPPY CIGARS Lootsi 14 - 2, close to terminal D at Tallinn passenger harbour www.cigars.ee, info@cigars.ee, phone +372 5400 5481 Happy Cigars Lounge

Happy Cigars Lounge

Cigar lounge

Cocktail bars

Happy Cigars Shop & Lounge This port-side cigar shop offers a wide range of Cubans and cigars from other countries. In addition to the smoking room, the spacious walk-in humidor lets you easily familiarise yourself with what’s on offer. Located in a century-old warehouse, you can also also enjoy coffee or a drink from bar, as well as some nice dishes. Tax-free sales are available to tourists living outside EU.QL‑6, Lootsi 14, tel. +372 54 00 54 81, www.cigars.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-19:00. P­X­U­B­I­6­W

Tallinn’s new nightlife trend will probably become a mainstay. There are so many of these lounge bars at the moment that we’ve chosen only to list our favourites. Some are stand-alone establishments and focus solely on beverages, both the classics and their signature cocktails can usually be had - while others also serve fairly tasty food.

Botaanik You’ll want to book ahead if you plan to visit this trendy artisan cocktail bar. But, you’ll be glad you did. With only a few tables, Botaanik fills up quick. The cocktails are created focusing on “the incredible taste of plants”, with anything from wild fruit to moss. A perfect place to start your evening.QC‑3, Suurtüki 2, www.botaanik.ee. Open Thu, Fri, Sat 18:0001:00; closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. B­J­6­W

Happy Cigars Shop and Lounge

Butterfly Lounge When we were last here we got the distinct feeling that this lounge was geared primarily towards the ladies. Perhaps it was the pink-clad waiters, overall butterfly motif, frou-frou menu items and more cock... tails than you can shake a stick at that made us feel this way, but if you want to spend the evening hanging out with a harem of beautiful dames, this just might be the perfect place. Excellent service.QD‑5, Vana-Viru 13 / Aia 4, tel. +372 56 90 37 03, www.kokteilibaar.ee. Open Mon, Tue 15:00-24:00; Wed, Thu 15:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 15:00-03:00; closed Sun. Age restriction 18+. B­E­J­6­W

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

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Nightlife Sessel Speakeasy bar Not your typical cocktail lounge, this nightspot is a mix of a trendy/artsy underground lounge, with a plethora of quirky retro fittings, a smattering of gaudy, lush furniture, and with just enough bling - yet not at all pretentious. It has the cosy feel of a second living room - if only your living room looked this nice, had a well stocked bar and bartenders that could whip you up the best vintage, and signature cocktails on a whim. They also host various special events each month including, intimate concerts, film nights, DJs, stand-up comedy shows, and open mic nights among other happenings.

QC‑5, Viru 3, tel. +372 55 94 84 94, www.sessel.ee. Open 17:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-03:00. P­E­J­6­W Sigmund Freud Bar This funky cocktail bar has received nothing but rave reviews, including from us. The talented bartenders are skilled in making inventive, as well as classic cocktails, all for a great price, considering the top quality. In addition to the great drinks, the atmosphere and the decor is fun, yet sophisticated.QC‑5, Sauna 8, tel. +372 53 50 33 60. Open 19:00-01:00. Age re‑ striction 18+ €€. J­6­W new Sonora Cafe This ‘chill’ locale is a great spot to unwind and or grab a bite after a busy day of seeing the city’s sights. The international cuisine, comes with a Mediterranean flare and so too the ambience. The menu focuses heavily on the ‘sharing plate’, designed to give the opportunity to, well, share with your partner, close friends or family. A decent cocktail and wine list certainly invites as do the DJs spinning smooth grooves on weekend nights.QD‑5, Vana-Viru 6, tel. +372 641 04 60. Open Wed, Thu 18:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 18:0002:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun. B­E­J­W

Live entertainment Lots of pubs have weekend bands, but some places in particular are known as venues for live music. Café Amigo (see clubs) also pulls in some of Estonia’s best acts.

Barbar rock club & bar This rock club/bar has received nothing but rave reviews from its growing, loyal fanbase. Live rock and metal shows happen every Friday and Saturday (except for July and August), with other gigs and events happening throughout the week.

Tickets are very reasonable (up to €10), with many free events.

In addition to great gigs and music, Barbar also offers a small food menu, as well as pool and darts free of charge. And to top it off there’s a year-round, covered terrace - yeah!! Be sure to check their website for full programme details.QE‑6, Rävala pst. 8, tel. +372 58 37 77 88. Open 15:00-03:00. B­E­W Chicago 1933 For some of the finest live blues this side of... well - Chicago, you can check out this swinging establishment just around the corner from the Viru Gates. The interior is all decked out in rich, dark wood and filled with large booths just like they have 42 Tallinn In Your Pocket

karaoke Due to Tallinn’s proximity to the karaoke-loving nation of Finland, there are quite a few karaoke spots to be found here. By no means have we listed all the possible karaoke venues, but here are a few that specialise in the art of personal embarrassment.

Retroteek With over 100,000 songs to choose from and a great stage from which to sing them from, Retroteek is a favourite karaoke place for locals.QE‑6, Kaubamaja 8/Rävala pst. 8, tel. +372 56 75 18 55. Open Tue, Wed, Thu 20:00-05:00; Fri, Sat 21:00-07:00; Sun 21:00-03:00; closed Mon. Shamrock Shamrock is a favourite among Finnish, Russian and Scandinavian tourists looking for a night of cheap beer, good laughs and karaoke. Although technically Irish, don’t let the name fool you, its new digs, under Musumägi (Kissing Hill) in the Old Town bastion wall gives off a bit more of a sports bar vibe than an Irish one, but the late night parties continue and so does the multi-lingual karaoke.QD‑5, Valli 1, tel. +372 660 11 20. Open 17:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 12:0004:00; Sun 12:00-02:00; closed Mon. B­S­J­6­W in the ‘Windy City’. There’s a strict ‘no firearms allowed’ policy though, so make sure you check your guns at the door.QE‑4, Roseni 8, tel. +372 627 12 66, www.chicago.ee. Open Mon, Tue 12:00-23:00; Wed 12:00-24:00; Thu 12:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€. P­U­B­E­W Philly Joe’s Jazz Club Who doesn’t love a great jazz club? From the relaxed, intimate atmosphere to the great music - it’s a night well spent. Don’t expect a bunch of fancy extras, just smooth grooves and well mixed cocktails. See website for events and details.QB‑6, Vabaduse väljak 10, www.phillyjoes.com. E­J Urban Bar If there’s any place that embodies the upscale-but-still-hip vibe of the Rotermanni district, it’s Urban Bar. Catering to urbanites who are willing to pay a bit more for quality, the sophisticated haunt acts as a combination cocktail bar, restaurant and live performance venue, opening its doors only on the evenings that matter. Expect the expected contingent of bearded barmen, inventive drinks and cool acts.QE‑4, Roseni 9, tel. +372 58 84 85 75, www.urbanbar.ee. Open Fri, Sat 18:00-02:00; closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. P­X­E­6­W Von Krahli Baar The real name is ‘Von Krahli Baar’ but regulars just call it ‘Krahl.’

This down-to-earth pub attached to a local theatre is where Tallinn’s alternative bands come to play, and naturally the crowd tends towards students, hipsters and artsy types. Decent selection of snacks and salads as well. See website for events.QB‑5, Rataskaevu 10, tel. +372 626 90 90, www.vonkrahl.ee/baar1.

Open 12:00-22:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. E­J­W tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife midnight munchies If you’re looking for food and drink after the pubs close, here are some decent options.

Peetri Pizza A local favourite, Peetri offers pizzas that we find - well, passable. Apart from this fairly simple café, it has various branches and stands all over town just in case you need that cheesy fix.QE‑2, Roosikrantsi 23, tel. +372 660 26 26, www.peetripizza.ee. Open 12:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-04:00. S­J

Wine bars In recent years, wine bars have emerged as a sophisticated, mature alternative in this overly beer-centric town.

Flamm Named after the famous Alsatian ‘flammkuchen’, a thin crust pizza-like dish, Flamm is one of many addition to rapidly developing Rotermanni area. This hip little bar and kitchen is perfect for after work drinks and snacks. While we would have liked the base of our ‘flammkuchen’ to be thinner, the toppings were exact and the service, friendly.

QE‑4, Rotermanni 2, tel. +372 53 33 71 54. Open 12:0022:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00; closed Mon, Thu, Sun. €€.

Pan Y Vino Great wines, friendly service and some tasty but simple food, make this wine bar both popular and a really nice spot to spend a few hours with a small group or a loved one. The Peruvian owner has worked in the industry for years and he takes a lot of pride in making everyone feel at home and comfortable - so much so that you’ll probably want to come back for more.QC‑4, Pikk 34, tel. +372 521 44 61, www.panyvino.ee. Open 16:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 16:00-01:00; closed Mon, Sun. B­S­J­6­W Vixen Vinoteek This cosy wine bar is a real treat. Not only can you sample wines by the glass, but you can choose between different flights of three wines to learn a little bit more about what you’re drinking. Most of the wines are selected and imported by the bar from small European wineries and the small snack menu offers flavourful, local bites to compliment the list.QC‑3, Pagari 1, tel. +372 515 28 98. Open 16:00-24:00. J­6­W Wine Not? This chic little wine bar is just the kind of place to spend a relaxed evening while enjoying a glass of wine and some great tapas. The bar specialises mainly in Portuguese wine, but what makes Wine Not? different from the rest is that you can try any bottle before you buy.QB‑4, Lai 6, tel. +372 600 32 22, www.winenot.ee. Open 17:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 15:00-01:30; closed Mon, Sun. B­J­6­W facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Wok to Walk Dine in or take out depending on your preference and the options of wok-style cuisine are seemingly endless. There’s also a huge amount of choice for vegetarians, vegans and those who have allergies to certain foods. Certainly a great choice for anyone who loves Asian cuisine.QD‑5, Vana-Viru 14, tel. +372 444 33 20, www.woktowalk.com. Open 10:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-05:30. €. P­B­S­J­6­W

Clubs Tallinn has quite a bit to offer on the club-scene. From tacky to cutting edge, you’ll certainly find something that fits your needs. The regular admittance age to most clubs is 18+, exceptions are listed at the end of our review. Please check our website for the full list of clubs.

Club Hollywood If there’s one club in Tallinn that’s guaranteed to be jumping, it’s Hollywood. Located in a historical theatre, this melting-pot for tourists, and Tallinn’s young and youngat-heart party crowd, usually ends up being a full-house.

Their VIP experience is excellent and they boast the largest video screen in Estonia - making a night out here a worthy expedition. Wednesday night is ladies night, i.e. free entrance for the fairer sex, which pretty much guarantees a good time for the lads as well.QC‑5, Vana-Posti 8, tel. +372 53 05 89 55, www.clubhollywood.ee. Open Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 23:00-05:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Admis‑ sion €5 - 20. X­E­J Venus Club Rows of classical cherub statues added to an Arabian desert motif are certainly over the top, but we think the überkitsch decor helps to create a great party atmosphere.

Open three days a week, indeed the party never seems to stop. The excellent bartenders mix fantastic cocktails and there are loads of special events to keep things hopping and interesting. It’s also one of the few clubs in town where you can often find people dancing before midnight. QD‑5, Vana-Viru 14, tel. +372 551 99 99, www. venusclub.ee. Open Thu 23:00-04:00; Fri, Sat 23:0005:00; closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Admission €4 - 10.

Age restriction 21+. X­J Autumn 2020

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Shopping & Directory

Staapli 3 Art Gallery and Art Cafe - bringing a splash of colour to your life! Please see review below. Photo: Andrei Chertkov

There are plenty of opportunities to spend money shopping in Tallinn. Old Town is literally lined with dozens of souvenir, antique and speciality stores. The most central shopping centres are Viru Centre, Solaris and Nautica.

Alongside its stunning, ‘new meets old’ architecture, the Rotermann Quarter (see E-4 on the map) features dozens of unique shopping and dining experiences. Other shopping destinations include Ülemiste and Kristiine shopping centres. Check our webiste for the full list of options.

Commercial galleries and art shops Fe Gallery At Fe Gallery, you can find a variety of quirky and classical pieces by local artists including metal, ceramics, glass, textiles, and jewellery.QC‑4, Hobusepea 10, tel. +372 53 44 79 22, www.artfe.eu. Open 11:00-18:00.

Helina Tilk Joyful hand-painted porcelain, glass and ceramics by an Estonian artist.QC‑4, Pikk 41, tel. +372 641 45 15, www. helinatilk.com. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-17:00; Sun 10:00-16:00; closed Tue, Wed. Kunstiaken This gallery and shop offers textiles, glass, ceramics, leather, and more, all designed and made by Estonian artists.QC‑4, Vene 20, tel. +372 646 42 09, www. kunstiaken.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; Sun 10:00-16:00.

Lühikese Jala Galerii Beautifully displayed ceramics, glass and textiles.

QB‑5, Lühike jalg 6, tel. +372 631 47 20, www.t6nis2. wixsite.com/lj-galerii. Open 10:00-18:00; Sun, Sat 10:00-17:00.

44 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Okapi An art and design gallery that also functions as a glass studio. They sell Estonian applied arts, photography, design and graphic works.QB‑5, Niguliste 2, tel. +372 56 88 14 34. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Staapli 3 Art Gallery and Art Café This Noblessner Port area commercial gallery and café has something for every taste and budget, served up with a side of coffee and cake. Please read more about them in our Noblessner section on page 25.QJ‑6, Staapli 3-114, tel. +372 660 22 11, www.staapliart.ee. Open 10:0020:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00-20:00.

Estonian design Although we haven’t made a final count of all the souvenir shops and boutiques in Old Town there appear to be thousands of them. This makes it pretty hard for the tourist, not to mention locals, to find souvenirs, fashion, art and other handicrafts that are truly Estonian - either made here or conceived and designed here. Listed below you can find a number of shops, products and boutiques that specialise in bringing authentic Estonian goods to the public.

A-galerii Estonian-designed jewellery and fashion accessories.

QC‑4, Hobusepea 2, tel. +372 646 41 01, www.agalerii. ee. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 11:00-16:00; closed Sun. Estonian Design House The Estonian Design House showcases the best of Estonian product design from interior accessories to fashion and is run by the Estonian Association of Designers.QD‑6, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris), tel. +372 53 57 11 50, www. estoniandesignhouse.ee. Open 11:00-19:00. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Shopping & Directory Muulin This Estonian family business specialises in handmade items for people who appreciate organic and sustainably-produced high-quality fabrics. Muulin has a great selection of items in a variety of styles for any room in your house. Muulin Child offers lovely, unique, playful and comfortable handmade dresses for all occasions, for girls (80–128 cm tall). All fabrics are made from soft and durable organic linen and cotton blend.QB‑5, Ra‑ taskaevu 9, tel. +372 55 58 57 47, www.muulin.ee.

Open 10:00-18:00.

Oma Asi Design This design/concept/lifestyle store features carefully chosen jewellery, fashion, home decor and accessories made by local and international artists. If you’re looking for something a little different, this is the place to come.

QD‑5, Viru 21. Open 11:00-19:00. Also at: QC‑4, Sa‑ iakang 4, www.omaasi.com. Open 12:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu. Tallinn Design House The Tallinn Design House showcases the best of Estonian design from fashion apparel, jewellery, handbags, footwear, organic cosmetics, ceramics to furniture, interior design accessories and interior lighting. The unique interactive showroom acts as a multifunctional art space, for presentations, events, and meetups.QE‑4, Rotermanni 14, tel. +372 58 65 05 58, www.tallinndesignhouse. com. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Sun. Y Zizi Table and bed dressings for the style-conscious.QC‑4, Vene 12, tel. +372 644 12 22, www.zizi.ee. Open 10:0018:00; Sun 10:00-16:00.

Gifts & Souvenirs The difficult challenge of selecting souvenirs that possess some practical use is actually possible to achieve in Tallinn. However, just as in any town heavily reliant on tourism, you could also go poor buying useless crap or items that really have nothing to do with Estonia, such as the ever prevalent Russian nesting doll. Just like the nesting doll, Old Town is filled with souvenir shops, some even inside other souvenir shops. Here we have listed just a few that specialise in various gift items.

DEKO Local design and small factory production is tastefully combined at DEKO, where you can find unique handmade gifts items and lots of cool retro stuff too.QB‑5, Voorimehe 1, tel. +372 56 80 90 85. Open 11:00-19:00; Mon, Sun 12:30-17:00.

Estonian House Located in the Old Town, Estonian House sells beautiful handicrafts directly from the artists who produce them.

QC‑4, Pikk 15, tel. +372 600 67 15. Open 12:00-19:00. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

made with love Estonian Folk Art and Craft Union handicraft centers & shops Selection of beautiful and high-quality crafted items by master craftsmen from all over Estonia. Qtel. +372 631 40 76, www. crafts.ee. Kaarmanni Handicraft, (C-5) Vanaturu kael 8; Estonian Handicraft House, (C-4) Pikk 22; Allikamaja Handicraft, (B-5) Lühike jalg 6a.

Check opening hours from www.crafts.ee website.

Estonia Shop This souvenir shop features different sections devoted to various handicrafts such as leather goods, local delicacies, wood items etc. The craftsmen sell their own wares and you won’t find any ‘Russian nesting dolls’ or other non-Estonian souvenirs for sale here - a plus in our books.

QC‑5, Viru 3, tel. +372 640 40 37, www.estonianshop. com/en. Open 10:00-20:00.

Katariina Guild Various artisan shops/workshops, including a glass studio, ceramics studio, textile studio and hat workshop among others.

You can witness the creation of the products on site.QC‑4, Vene 12/Katariina käik, www.katariinagild.eu. Opening hours for each studio can be found from website.

Olde Hansa Shoppe This great medieval shop, brought to us by the folks at Olde Hansa, features authentic wares such as hand-blown glass, hand-crafted pottery, leather items and even spirits.

All of the bits and pieces here have been recreated based on countless hours of research and are replicas of items used by actual townsfolk in the days of yore. The items are even functional, which is pretty cool in our books.QC‑5, Vanaturu kael 12, tel. +372 627 90 40, www.shoppe.ee.

Open 12:00-20:00.

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Shopping & Directory alcohol

Pharmacies

Please note that alcohol sales in Tallinn are prohibited from 22:00 until 10:00.

BENU Apteek A centrally-located pharmacy to suit all your health needs.

QD‑4, Aia 7, tel. +372 648 41 99, www.benu.ee. Open 08:30-19:30; Sat 10:00-17:00; closed Sun. Also at: C-4, Narva mnt. 1, tel. +372 613 07 00. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.

Liviko store & more Estonia’s largest and longest running alcohol producer runs a few of its own stores stocked, naturally, full of their own products and imported wares at competitive prices.

QD‑4, Mere pst. 6, tel. +372 683 77 45, www.alcostore. ee. Open 10:00-20:00. Also at: G-4, Narva mnt. 7, tel.

683 77 40. Also at: G-4, Lootsi 8, tel. 660 5986.

Rein Kasela Wine Room This charming wine room offers an exclusive selection of wines from Europe, but their focus is certainly on French wines. You’ll also be able to find some excellent Cognacs, Calvados, Grappas, Marsala and dessert wines.QE‑4, Rotermanni 14, tel. +372 501 45 47, www.manipenny. ee. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Sat, Sun. Taptap Tallinn With over 230 different bottles from Estonia and abroad, this is a must-visit for any beer lover. Taptap also has six taps and serves Danish-style hot dogs.QE‑4, Rotermanni 2, tel. +372 53 03 95 53, www.taptap.ee. Open 12:00 22:00. Sun 12:00 - 17:00.

Grocers Kaubamaja With its very convenient Viru Center location, Kaubamaja stocks a huge selection of gourmet and local items.QE‑5, Gonsiori 2, tel. +372 667 31 00, www.kaubamaja.ee.

Open 09:00-21:00.

Kolmjalg (the Everything Store) Conveniently located in the Old Town, this small grocer will help you in a pinch with all the basics.QB‑4, Ra‑ taskaevu 2, tel. +372 631 15 11. Open 24hrs.

Prisma Prisma’s Old Town location is one of the larger grocery stores in the city centre. Open 24/7, this shop covers all your basic grocery needs.QD‑5, Aia 3, www. prismamarket.ee. Open 24hrs.

Rimi One of the largest grocery chains in Estonia.QC‑3, Aia 7, tel. +372 644 38 55, www.rimi.ee. Open 08:00-23:00.

Also at: C-4, Pikk 11. Open 07:30-22:00. Also at: K-7, Ahtri 9 (Nautica). Open 08:00-22:00.

Euroapteek QB‑6, Vabaduse väljak 10, tel. +372 646 30 41, www. euroapteek.ee. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun. Tõnismäe Apteek The most central pharmacy that stays open all night.QJ‑8, Tőnismägi 5, tel. +372 644 22 82, www.sudameapteek. ee. Open 24hrs.

medical services urgent care Need help now? The Tallinn First Aid hotline tel. +372 697 11 45, can provide treatment advice in English, and if need be, direct you to the appropriate hospital. If you need cough syrup at 03:00, try the round-the-clock Tõnismäe pharmacy.

For dramatic situations that require an ambulance, call 112.

Emergency operators speak English.

Tallinna Hambapolikliinik Large, state dental clinic. Call here in an emergency.QA‑6, Toompuiestee 4b, tel. +372 612 12 00, www.hambapol. ee. Open 08:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-15:00; Sun 09:00-14:00.

where to stay academic Hostel If you like affordable and comfortable accommodation with great service, the Academic Hostel is just for you.

This hostel is well suited for both individual guests and families. It’s located about 5 km from the city centre, on the grounds of the Tallinn University of Technology. You will find excellent sports facilities as well as other amenities nearby. Take trolleybus N°3 from Vabaduse väljak to the Keemia stop. Twin room €37, breakfast €4.QAkadeemia tee 11/1, tel. +372 620 22 75, www. academichostel.com. G­U­L­R­6­W­i

Selver Selver caters to all your grocery shopping needs, with a wonderful selection of fresh produce, local and imported foods, baked good, and more.QA‑4, Toompuiestee 37, tel. +372 619 24 40, www.selver.ee. Open 07:00-23:00. Also at: A-4, Kopli 1 (Baltic Station market 0-floor). Open 08:00 - 22:00.

46 Tallinn In Your Pocket

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Shopping & Directory Markets

Shopping centres

Baltic Station market Just a short jaunt from Old Town, the trendy Balti Jaam market brings close to 300 different retailers and smaller producers together, offering the most fresh, interesting, and exotic goods, all under one roof. Wander through the open-air market where you’ll find a great selection of produce. Inside, the meat, dairy and seafood halls offer a wide selection of primarily local products - as well as some of the freshest imported ingredients. You’ll also find a whole street food section and several eateries, with a lot of different vendors to choose from. Don’t forget about the antiques, clothing, shoes, handicrafts, brewery, supermarket, and fitness club as well - you might even be tempted to spend the whole day here, and there’s plenty of parking available in order to do just that. QA‑3, Kopli 1, tel. +372 641 34 36, www.astri.ee/bjt. Open 09:00-19:00; Sun 09:00-17:00. Street food area open daily 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. Second floor opens from 10:00 daily.

Shopping malls of various sorts have sprouted up all over town. Here’s a bit of direction for serious shoppers.

Kristiine Centre This bustling shopping mall has a wide mix of shops and services, including a large Prisma grocery store. It also houses O’Learys, the biggest entertainment centre in Estonia for sports events, virtual games and dining.QJ‑8, Endla 45, tel. +372 665 91 00, www.kristiinekeskus.ee. Open 10:00-21:00. Prisma grocery store open 08:00 - 23:00.

Nautica With close to 60 shops and a large Rimi Hypermarket, the only one in the city centre, and a large Calle liquor store, this makes Nautica a convenient place to shop between the port and the city centre. On top of great fashion brands along with Estonian design, there are also plenty of places to get a bite to eat and you can entertain yourself at Park Minigolf or get pampered at Aulis beauty salon. ​QK‑7, Ahtri 9, www.nautica.ee. Open 09:00-20:00.

Nautica Baltic Station Market

Central market (Keskturg) A popular destination for fresh food items. Also has clothing and other assorted ‘treasures’. Take tram N°4 from the centre towards Ülemiste, make sure to get off at the Keskturg stop.QL‑8, Keldrimäe 9. Open 07:00-17:00.

Depoo Located just around the corner from Baltic Station Market, Depoo features an impressive container hotel, as well as a street food area.QJ‑7, Telliskivi 62, www.astri.ee/depoo/.

Sadama Turg Various Estonian handicrafts and food items can be found at this market in the port area.QK‑6, Sadama 25, www. sadamaturg.ee. Open 09:00-19:00.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials app facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Solaris Solaris is both an entertainment complex that comes complete with a state of the art cinema, concert hall, and shopping centre with several local design stores and great places to eat. In fact the only thing it doesn’t have is a hotel and if it did, there would be really no reason to leave. QD‑6, Estonia pst. 9, tel. +372 615 51 00, www. solaris.ee. Open 09:00-23:00. Shops open 11:00-19:00.

Restaurants open 11:00-21:00. Ülemiste Centre Ülemiste centre is the most popular shopping centre in Tallinn with its cosy atmosphere and many opportunities for leisure.

It’s truly a one-stop shopping centre with everything from a grocery store and electronics, to shoes and clothing for the whole family. There’s tons of great places to eat, to suit even the pickiest of eaters, as well as plenty of entertainment like the Apollo cinema and an indoor play area for kids. For serious shoppers, it’s worth the short trip from the centre. To get there take bus N°15 from the Viru bus terminal to Ülemiste jaam stop or tram N°4 from Viru stop (A-4) to the Ülemiste linnak stop. QM‑8, Suur-Sőjamäe 4, next to Tallinn Airport, tel. +372 603 49 99, www.ulemiste.ee. Open 10:00-21:00.

Autumn 2020

47

Living in Tallinn Settle in Estonia Programme is a state provided and free of charge national programme, designed to make it easy as possible for newly arrived foreigners to join in with Estonian life, and to get used to the business, study and leisure culture. Participating in the programme will give you a wealth of information on everyday life in Estonia, plus how to study at university, how to get lessons in the Estonian language, and much more.

Please check our website for an extensive overview of various services providers, groups and organisations catering to both newcomers and settled expats in Estonia: www.inyourpocket.com/tallinn/living-in-tallinn

We hope you’ve enjoyed your visit to Tallinn - we think it’s a charming city full of surprises and excitement, and we hope you agree. If you’ve had a good time as a visitor here, whether you came on a business trip, or as a tourist, maybe you ought to consider living and working in the Estonian capital, where doing business is simple and efficient. It’s easy to get to work here in Tallinn, and there are many organisations ready and waiting to help you as well as services like Settle in Estonia Programme.

International House of Estonia The International House of Estonia is a one-stop-shop for internationals in Estonia. The Centre facilitates communication with the state, provides counselling and aims to help create a network. The services provided are aimed at internationals (mainly specialists) who have come to Estonia to work or to study, but there are also services for families and companies looking to hire international talent. QM‑9, Valukoja 8, C Wing, ground floor, tel. +372 627 97 01, www. workinestonia.com/internationalhouse.

Online consultations are offered on Mon, Fri 09:00-15:00, Tue - Thu 09:00-17:30, in-office consultations on Tuesdays and Thursdays 9:00-17:30.

Settle in Estonia Programme for new arrivals Are you considering moving to Estonia?

Or maybe you’re already living in this beautiful and innovative country?

Do you want to acquire the primary knowledge and skills to settle in as fast as possible? To get you acquainted with the Estonian way of life, Settle in Estonia Programme.

Investing in your future

SETTLE IN ESTONIA PROGRAMME (free of charge) consists of various informative and interactive TRAINING MODULES: •

BASIC MODULE which gives an overview of the Estonian state, society, culture and people, also rights and obligations of residents, public services etc;

•

THEMATIC MODULES which give an overview of working and entrepreneurship, family life, studying and research;

•

SEPARATE TRAINING MODULES for children under the age of 15 and

•

BASIC LEVEL ESTONIAN LANGUAGE TRAINING (level A1).

More information about the programme and registration: www.settleinestonia.ee; info@settleinestonia.ee SettleinEstonia

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