Tallinn In Your Pocket Autumn 2022/Winter 2023

Welcome to Tallinn

Welcome to Tallinn, the ancient yet increasingly modern capital city of the smallest Baltic country, right at the sea.

There’s nothing truly small about Tallinn however, and throughout the ages it has indeed packed a punch far higher than its weight class. Nowadays things aren’t any different. In fact Estonia, home to Tallinn identifies far more with it’s Nordic neighbours and has a fairly shared culture - especially with Finland. Tallinn is also a growing tech hub and centre for innovation. Its home to one of Europe’s best preserved medieval‘Old Towns’, and because of this, the site is a designated Unesco World Heritage site. So whether or not you merely have a few days, or a few weeks to spend in this world-class city, between the architecture, the cuisine, the history, the nature and parks, the shy yet (deep down) friendly locals, the many activities, events, and museums available to explore - this big-small town is happening. Great for a romantic escape, a getaway with friends and also a safe and friendly place to bring your family. Enjoy your stay!

COVID-19 IN ESTONIA

Duetoongoingpandemic,thetravelandsocial restrictions are still being enforced, and special safety measures implemented in restaurants, museums, concert venues, local businesses and other places where people gather in groups. If you would like to be informed about Estonia’s current restrictions, please visit the Foreign Ministry’s website https://vm.ee/ en and the local crisis management website https://www.kriis.ee/en for more detailed and up-to-date information. You can also look for the round blue door label “You are safe here” which marks the establishments that follow the recommendations of the Health Board.

TALLINN VISITOR CENTRE

The city’s official tourist information point is best equipped to answer any question. They also offer tour booking services and sell Tallinn Card that gives you discounted or free access to many venues around the city.  QB-5, Niguliste 2, tel. +372 645 77 77, www.visittallinn.ee. Open 09:00-18:00.

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION

We truly hope you have a safe stay in Tallinn, but in case you should have any sort of emergency then here’s what you need to know:

For the ambulance, police and rescue services dial 112

Emergency medical services are offered 24h by East Tallinn Central Hospital (IdaTallinna Keskhaigla) QRavi 18, tel. +372 622 7070, https://www.itk.ee/en and North EstoniaMedicalCenterHospital(Põhja-Eesti Regionaalhaigla) QSütiste 19, tel. +372 617 1369, https://www.regionaalhaigla.ee/en. Emergency dental care is provided Tallinn’s Dental Polyclinic QToompuiestee 4B, tel. +372 612 12 00.

If you need cough syrup at 03:00, try the roundthe-clock Tõnismäe pharmacy QTõnismägi 5, tel. +372 644 22 82. Open 24h.

Photo Jaanus Jagomägi, Unsplash

OLD TOWN

Dating back as far as the 13th century, the beautifully preserved medieval Old Town is registered in the UNESCO World Heritage list. The winding, cobbled streets of the medieval capital take you past half-hidden lanes, courtyards, spired churches and old merchant houses. For centuries, what’s now the ‘Old Town’ has been divided into two distinct parts: Toompea Hill, which was home to the gentry that lorded over the countryside, and Lower Town, which was a separate political entity with rights as an autonomous town and run primarily by the merchant class.

ROTERMANNI & PORT AREA

Conveniently wedged between the Old Town, Viru Square and the port area, Rotermann’s old 19thcentury brick warehouses have been transformed into an ever-growing urban meeting place for gourmet food and posh shopping. A little further towards the passenger port you’ll find the underdevelopment, Porto Franco complex featuring shops, offices and eateries. Near the harbour lies the impressive and sprawling Linnahall - a grand, former concert hall and fine example of the Soviet monumental building style. The structure was also used as a location in the recently released “Tenet” film by Christopher Nolan.

KALAMAJA

Just a short hop from the Balti Jaam train station lies the eclectic and historic district of Kalamaja. The area’s name means ‘fish house’, referring to its fishing past. One of Tallinn’s last remaining ‘wooden-house’and antiquated industrial districts has made a trendy revival and the gentrification continues. Although there are places to eat and boutiques scattered throughout the district, the epicentre of the whole Kalamaja frenzy, including shops, handi-craft studios, eateries and much of the nightlife scene, is headquartered in and around the old Telliskivi factory and warehouse complexnow called the Telliskivi Creative City.

NOBLESSNER

Just past the fascinating Seaplane Harbour, and Patarei Sea Fortress, the Noblessner Port area is quickly continuing the development of the seaside in Kalamaja. The historic submarine shipyard is now home to new apartment blocks, boat anchorage facilities, offices, and a growing number of galleries, a science centre, restaurants, bars and boutiques. On a nice evening, the area fills up with people enjoying the beautiful seaside sunset.

Rotermann Quarter. Photo by Kaupo Kalda

Photo Ilya Orehiv

Kalamaja. Photo by Matheus Frade. Unsplash

Noblessner. Photo by Deniss Slenduhhov. Unsplash

KADRIORG

Just a short westerly hike along Narva mnt. brings you to one of the most beautiful districts in all of Tallinn. Kadriorg is home to magnificent parks and gardens, the Presidential Palace, KUMU art museum as well as several smaller art museums. The jewel in Kadriorg’s crown however is the Kadriorg Palace, a magnificent, Baroque structure surrounded by manicured gardens and fountains. This was the centre of an estate that Russian tsar Peter the Great established as a family retreat in the early 18th century.

MAARJAMÄE

Mostly known for its massive memorial complex, including the newly constructed Memorial to the Victims of Communism, the area is also home to EstonianHistoryMuseum-MaarjamäeHistory Centre featuring a beautiful courtyard with several buildings, including the historic Maarjamäe Castle, and a collection of Soviet monuments. Right between Kadriorg and Maarjamäe one of Estonia’s most important pieces of real estate, the Song Festival Grounds where in 1988 over 100,000 Estonians raised their collective voices in songs of freedom as part of The Singing Revolution that would ultimately lead to Estonia regaining her independence after more than 50 years of Soviet rule.

PIRITA

Further along the seaside is another district that provides an escape from the downtown bustlePirita. When most Tallinners think of Pirita, they think of the popular beach, which calls for a nice walk even after the beach season is over. 15-century St. Bridget’s Convent ruins give a glimpse into Pirita’s long history. The Olympic Yachting Centre built for the 1980 Moscow Olympicsisamorerecentlandmark,togetherwith the TallinnTVTower in the nearby Kloostrimetsa area, also home to Tallinn Botanical Garden

ROCCA AL MARE

Home to the great Tallinn Zoo, the Estonian Open Air Museum, some excellent cycling, roller blading, walking paths, the Rocca al Mare Shopping Centre and some lovely sea views of Tallinn - the Rocca al Mare area, already long popular with locals, is fast becoming a destination for visitors to the city as well.

And if you venture a little further out along the coast, you’ll get to Haven Kakumäe - a modern marina with a beautiful seaside promenade and several eateries that makes a perfect spot for catching that seaside vibe.

Photo by Estonian Open Air Museum.

St.Bridget’s Convent ruins.

Memorial to the Victims of Communism

Kadriorg Palace-. Photo Vladislav Melnyk. Unsplash

Getting Around

As European capitals go, Tallinn is a remarkably easy-access city. The passenger port and train station are both within shouting distance of the Old Town/centre, while the airport and bus station are a quick, cheap 10 - 15 minute taxi ride away and also easily reachable by tram.

RENTAL BIKES & SCOOTERS

If you’re looking for an alternative way to get around town, there are two companies that rent electric scooters. The app-based Tuul costs €0.09 per minute and and Bolt costs €0.15 per minute. There is no unlocking fee.

The biggest bike rental company is City Bike, located at Vene 33. They offer a wide variety of bikes from the classic city bikes to tandem, retro and electric bikes. The prices start from €7 for a 3-hour rental.

TAXIS

Taxi stands can be found near major hotels and in severallocationsjustoutsideOldTown,butgrabbing a taxi on the street usually comes with a premium fare. Ordering by phone is a better strategy though, as usually they have better rates. A more popular option is to use one of the numerous taxi ordering appslike Bolt or Forus.TheoftencontroversialUber ‘taxi’service is also available inTallinn. Here’s a list of taxi companies along with their daytime base fares and per-kilometre rates. Night time metres can run about 20% more.

PERETAKSO

Only large taxis available, best for small groups. €4.80 + €0.95/km.Qtel. +372 646 00 06/16111, www.peretakso.ee.

TALLINK TAKSO

€3.90 + €0.85 - 1.10/km.Qtel. +372 640 89 21/1921, www.tallinktakso.ee.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

Tallinn’s public transportation system is a fairly straightforward network of buses, trolley-buses and trams, all of which use the same ticketing-system.

Trams provide the simplest way to get around downtown areas. From the centre, most major bus routes leave from the terminal under the Viru Centre, or from Vabaduse väljak (Freedom Square). Routes and schedules are listed in English at https://tallinn.pilet.ee/buy where you can also find a handy route planner to help you navigate your way through Tallinn’s pubic transport system. All new CAF trams offer free wifi for passengers.

We also recommend to consider buying Tallinn Card that provides free transportation among other perks.

TICKETS

The same tickets/cards are good on all three systems. The simplest version is the 1-hour QR ticket which can be bought with tallinn.pilet. ee app. If you are planning on travelling a lot via public transport, other types of tickets are good for specific periods of time and are sold in Tourist Information Centre, bus station, Balti jaam train station, airport, ferry terminals

A & D, supermarket info desks, or R-Kiosk shops. One-hour Tallinn tickets (€1.50) may also be purchased onboard using Mastercard, Maestro, Visa and Visa Electron bank cards with contactless interfaces. www.tallinn.pilet.ee/buy.

PARKING

If you happen to be here with your own set of wheels, keep in mind that finding parking in downtown Tallinn, especially during working hours, can be a real nightmare. Public parking on streets in the town centre, as well as a few streets in Old Town, costs €1.5 - 6/hour, depending on the zone. First 15 minutes of parking is free of charge. Buy per-hour parking passes from streetside vending machines or kiosks, and be sure to leave a parking clock (or barring that a written note) on your dashboard to mark the time that you first parked.

If all this sounds too complicated, you can just use the following guarded central parking lots/ garages.

Tallinn is basically a large village and getting from one end of the city to the other is usually fairly quick and easy - compared to most international standards of course. Here we have listed all of the different ways you can navigate the city.

Sightseeing & Museums Sightseeing & Museums

Tallinn is an extremely unique city and truly a blend of many eras, having been settled and then ruled by various nations, empires, and even guilds or trading groups for much of its 5,000 year written history.

HISTORYMUSEUMS

ARTMUSEUMS&GALLERIES

MUSEUMSFORFAMILIES OUTDOORATTRACTIONS

During those centuries it played host to Vikings (both local and from various other Nordic lands), Teutonic knights, a bustling medieval period, a possession of several neighbouring countries, an importanttradinghubduringtheHanseatictimes, playground of Russian royalty and a thriving, independent republic from the last half of the 1900’s until WW2, then through the challenging decades under Soviet rule and finally “singing its way ” to re-independance in 1991 which was kicked off by the ‘Singing Revolution’ - one of the most peaceful ends to Soviet occupation in all of the former‘Republics’of the USSR.

OLD TOWN WALKING TOUR

Dating back as far as the 13th century, the old section of Tallinn is what keeps most visitors occupied during their stay. The winding, cobbled streets of the medieval capital take you past halfhidden lanes, courtyards, spired churches and old, merchant houses. For centuries, what’s now the OldTown has been divided into two distinct parts: Toompea Hill, which was home to the gentry that lorded over the countryside, and Lower Town, which was a separate political entity with rights as an autonomous town. The two are actually to this day separated by a massive gateway and two smaller doorways, which used to be locked at night.The OldTown was surrounded by a 2.35kmlong defensive wall, 1.85 km of which still stand strong, including 25 of the original 46 towers, several of them open to the public.

Tallinn’s Old Town may seem like a never-ending maze, but the area itself is not that large and easy to get a sense for in a day or two. Walk up Viru Street toTown Hall Square and be prepared to revel in the medieval charm. The square is filled with terraces in summer and various events take place there all year long.

The imposing Gothic old Town Hall building dates to 1404 and Old Thomas, the weather vane who symbolises Tallinn, has been keeping watch since 1530.

Photo: Jaanus Jagomägi. Unsplash

On the square you’ll also find the one of the oldest continuously running pharmacies in Europe on the square. Records show that the Raeapteek was already in the hands of its third owner in 1422. In medieval times patients could buy mummy juice and burnt bees for treatment, and healthy folks could even drop in for a glass of spiced wine. Just outside of the pharmacy, look for two long cobblestones that make the letter ‘L’. This spot marks one of the more bizarre tales from Tallinn’s medieval history where according to the tale, in the late 1600s, a priest unhappy to have been served several as „hard as a shoe sole“ omelettes in a row, decided to kill the waitresswithanaxe.Forthisunusuallyviolentcrime, the priest was swiftly hauled out to the square and beheaded in that very spot.

We then suggest you follow Dunkri Street that takes you past another peculiar piece of the medieval era’s daily life - the Cat’s Well where locals threw down animal sacrifices to keep the city’s wells from running dry. In a sense, the sacrifices worked - the town’s wells never ran dry. But the practice of throwing animals down the well didn’t do much for the water quality, and the Cat’s Well had fallen into disuse by the mid 19th century.

Past the well, take the beautiful stairway of Lühike Jalg and walk up to Toompea, the upper part of Old Town. At the top of the stairs you’ll notice a heavy door on your right that gives a good sense of how well the Toompea hill was separated from the lower town. It’s also worth noting that you’re now at the most ‘haunted’ spot in Old Town which explains the three grim and foreboding monk statues once you go through the little gate to the Danish King’s Garden, where the ghost stories connected with the Maiden’s Tower, Marstal Tower and Short Leg Gate Tower continue. The best time to visit the garden is at night with the medieval walls at your back and the beautifully lit lower town roofs providing ambience.

RAEAPTEEK

One of the oldest continuously running pharmacies in Europe is on Town Hall Square. No one knows exactly when it opened, but records show that the Revali Raeapteek (Town Hall Pharmacy) was already on its third owner in 1422. In medieval times patients could buy mummy juice, earthworm oil and burnt bees for treatment, and healthy folks could even drop in for a glass of spiced wine. In fact the pharmacy also filled a role of a modern day café as a meeting place of aldermen and other important people where they can have a cup of tea or glass of claret and discuss the daily news.The Raeapteek still sells claret, the famous pharmacy wine created at the Raeapteek apothecary shop in 1467 and marzipan which was once listed as medicine for relieving love sickness and restoring memory. Keeping up with the times, you can also buy your usual aspirin and condoms, but part of the shop is also a museum, displaying old medical instruments and other curiosities. Check the website for the information on guided tours and workshops. QRaekoja plats 11, tel. +372 631 48 60, www.raeapteek.ee Open 10:00-18:00; closed Sun. Free admission.

Now you’ve reached Toompea where you’ll find some of the most unique and breathtaking views of the city from one of the several viewing platforms. The Estonian Parliament (Riigikogu) is situated in what remains of Toompea Castle and the ‘blue, black & white’ Estonian flag is proudly hoisted on high from the Pikk Hermann Tower there.

Photo by Tiit Aunaste

Right across the street, the impressive and purposely built, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral makes an antiquated political statement, built at the end of the Tsarist Russian-Era, with its classic 5 ‘onion domes’, it offers a colourful contrast to the many Lutheran churches that spot the Old Town and Toompea itself. It is truly a sight to behold, and the interior meticulously decorated in all the finery one would expect, worth visiting for anyone interested in Russian culture.

The Dome Church (St.Mary’s Cathedral), where the interior is filled with elaborate funereal coats of arms from the 17th to the 19th centuries, as well as burial stones from the 13th to the 18th centuries makes a worthwhile stop on your way the KohtuotsaandPatkuliviewingplatforms by Kohtu and Rahukohtu streets. The views over Tallinn and the seaside are spectacular, and worth the climb.

To get back to ‘Lower Old Town’, you can take Pikk Jalg street and head by Pühavaimu street past the13-century Holy Spirit church to admire the detail-rich main altar, which is both a functioning musical instrument and work of art by Bernt Notke. On the outside you’ll notice the ornate outdoor clock that is one of the most photographed objects in Tallinn.

TALLINN CARD

If you’re trying pack the most into your time in Tallinn, consider picking up the city pass Tallinn Card, good for 24hrs (€35), 48hrs (€52), or 72hrs (€63). For kids 7 - 17, the price is reduced by about50%.Cardholderswillgainfreeadmission to over 50 museums and sights in the city, unlimited use of public transport and all sorts of fun bonuses and freebies at restaurants, shops, etc.. The card can be bought online and used in your smart device or you can buy a plastic card from major hotels as well as the airport, harbour and at the Tallinn Tourist Information Centre (Kullassepa 4). For more details, consult the website tallinncard.ee.

When you reach Vene street, you’ll notice both St. Peter’s and St. Paul’s Cathedral across the street, to your right and just past this is a little alleyway leading to St.Catherine’s Passageone of the prettiest little walkways in all of Old Town, connectingVene and Müürivahe streets. On the northern portion of the passage you can find the somewhat intact remains of St. Catherine’s Church and various, large ancient tombstones that used to line the inside of the sanctuary. On the southern portion of the passage, you’ll find numerous artisanal workshops - including the ever popular glass blowing studio, where you’ll even get to see them hard at work creating new items for you to purchase.

Reaching the end of the passage you’ll notice the high city wall along Müürivahe street and handicraft sellers along it. Here’s your perfect spot for picking up a cute pair of woolen socks, sweaters, hats and other authentic items before heading back to the Viru Gates on your left.

Dome Church (St.Mary’s Cathedral)

St.Catherine’s Passage

Kohtuotsa viewing platform

MUSEUMS

Tallinn has a lot to offer in terms of museums. Here are some of the most impressive ones that should be on your visiting list.

HISTORY MUSEUMS

In a city over 800-year of dated history, the history museums are plentiful.

In a city with over 800-years of ‘dated’ history, the museums are plentiful and filled with ancient artefacts, loads of fascinating stories and even interactive exhibits - bringing history to the modern era. The Kiek In De Kök Fortifications where the massive Kiek in de Kök defence tower, the subterranean Bastion Passages, the Carved Stone Museum, the Maiden’s Tower, Marstal Tower and the Short Leg Gate Tower make up a massive museum complex over 300 metres long.

One of the best preserved buildings in Old Town, the Great Guild Hall, completed in 1410 gives a glimpse into the house of a wealthy merchant. And if you want to learn more about life through the centuries in Tallinn, (or Reval as it was once known) the Tallinn City Museum houses elaborate displays demonstrating various aspects ofTallinn’s history.

Outside of Old Town, the architecturally unique Estonian Maritime Museum’s Seaplane Harbour hangar, is among the most visited museums in the city with the actual submarine Lembit from the 1930-s, the century-old, steampowered icebreaker SuurTõll docked at the marina, the world’s only copy of a‘Short 184’seaplane and many other life-sized exhibits are on display here. If you’re a true maritime enthusiast, you should also squeeze in a visit to the Maritime Museum’s Fat MargaretTower location that displays a 700-year

old shipwreck discovered inTallinn in 2015 among many, smaller maritime artefacts as well.

And finally the Estonian Open Air Museum that includes a whopping 70 historical buildings, mostly farm-related, sprawled out across 70ha of forest and land in Rocca al Mare. Please see Outdoorattractions for the listing.

ESTONIAN HISTORY MUSEUMGREAT GUILD HALL

The Great Guild Hall built 1407 - 1410, was significant as the home of Tallinn’s union of wealthy merchants and is a sight worth visiting in its own right as one of the best preserved medieval buildings in Old Town. As part of the renovations, several formal rooms and cellars have now been opened to the public for the first time. There is temporary exhibition “Musical Garden. Hortus Musicus 50”, which tells the story of music through centuries. In the cellar one can have an overview of the Guild Hall´s history, can find a Treasury and historical Weapons Chamber.  Next to the museum, follow the Börsi Passage where Estonia’s history is set in the stone path (when it’s not covered in snow), from the pre-history, through the present-day.QPikk 17, tel. +372 696 86 90, www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. Open: October through April Wed - Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €12, reduced €8, family €24.

SOMETHING DIFFERENT

The Banned Books Museum preserves and exhibits banned, burned, and censored books from around the world. There is also a selection of books for sale detailing the history of censorship, free speech, and authors’ rights.QMunga 2, www.bannedbooksmuseum.com. Open Sat, Sun 11:00-18:00. Private tours for groups of four or more individuals are available by request. Entry to the museum is free, but donations are welcome.

Great Guild Hall building

Monk statue at Danish King’s Garden

THE OCCUPATION & RECENT HISTORY

Between 1941 and 1991, Estonia was occupied briefly by Nazi Germany and then for four and a half decades by the USSR. The history of this difficult period comes to life in the Vabamu Museum of Occupations and Freedom. The permanent exhibition ‘Freedom Without Borders’, speaks of crimes against humanity, Estonians in the free world, life in Soviet Estonia, the restoration of independence, and freedom.

After you have learned about all the Soviet-era historical details, you are ready to head to the KGB Prison Cells Suspected enemies of the state were imprisoned in tiny cells, sometimes up to 18 people at a time, before they were interrogated, then either shot or sent to labour camps in Siberia.

From there you can head to the imposing, seaside complex of the Patarei Sea Fortress and former prison, which was the next destination for many of the people interrogated in the KGB prison cells. Here you can walk around in part of the prison that was even in active use until 2002.

A brighter stop on this rather depressing museum tour would be to visit the Maarjamäe War Memorial Complex, including the beautifully designed Memorial to the Victims of Communism. Nearbly you’ll also find the Estonian History Museum’s Maarjamäe History Centre consisting of Maarjamäe Palace that takes visitors on a 100-year journey, from the birth of the Republic of Estonia to modern era, the beautifully restored MaarjamäeStables and the Estonian Film Museum. You can also visit an interesting collection of Soviet statues and monuments in the museum gardens.

And futher out, housed in Viimsi Manor is the Estonian War Museum - General Laidoner Museum is dedicated to the war history covering

WWI and WWII as well as the Cold War period. An impressive display of big artillery guns and military vehicles is located 300 m from the museum.

ESTONIAN HISTORY MUSEUMMAARJAMÄE HISTORY CENTRE

Part of the Estonian History Museum, Maarjamäe Palace and park is the most well-preserved, summer manor complex in Tallinn today. Built in 1874 and commissioned by Count Anatoly OrlovDavydov from St. Petersburg, it has played many different roles during its long history. This palace has housed a posh restaurant and hotel, an Aviation SchooloftheRepublicofEstoniaaswellastheSoviet army, before being given new life as a museum in 1987. The permanent exhibition ‘My Free Country’ takes visitors on a 100-year journey, from the birth of the Republic of Estonia to modern day. The historic MaarjamäeStables building from the 19th century is a venue for temporary exhibitions  and educational programs.

Part of the Estonian History Museum, the Estonian Film Museum houses a permanent exhibition entitled ‘Take ONE’. The exhibition looks at the filmmaking process and lets you in on the secrets of filmmaking and filmmakers.

Over the last decade, the museum has been collecting  monuments from the Soviet period with the intention of making an outdoor exhibition that presents a specific period of local history. ThisexhibitionisdisplayedbehindMaarjamäe Palace and forms one part of the museum’s new park.QPirita tee 56, tel. +372 696 86 00, www. ajaloomuuseum.ee. October through April openWed -Sun10:00-18:00.Admission to the entire centre is €15, reduced €10, family €30. Separate admission to Maarjamäe Palace is €10, reduced €8, family €22, Film Museum €10, reduced €8, family €22, Maarjamäe Stables €10, reduced €8, family €22.

Maarjamäe History Centre

ESTONIAN WAR MUSEUMGENERAL LAIDONER MUSEUM

Housed in Viimsi Manor near Tallinn, the former summer residence of General Johan Laidoner who was the Commander in Chief of the Estonian Armed Forces in the Estonian War of Independence, the Estonian War Museum is a great place to start if you would like to learn more aboutthehistoryofthiscountry.Stepintogeneral Laidoner’s office, climb into Forest Brothers’ winter bunker, take a look at various arms and historical uniforms of the Estonian army. There is also a huge display of artillery guns and military vehicles located 300 m from the main building, Vehema tee 1a that is unique in the whole Baltics. Getting there: Take bus N°1A to Viimsi from the Viru Centre’s underground bus terminal (C-4) and get off atViimsi vallamaja stop (should be about a 25min ride). Walk back to the main road and turn right, another 50m and it will be the large yellow building on your left.Q Mõisa tee 1, Viimsi, tel. +372 621 74 10, www.esm.ee. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue. Heavy artillery hall is open from November to April by booking only. Admission €5, reduced €3, family €10.

VABAMU MUSEUM OF OCCUPATIONS AND FREEDOM

The unsuspecting facade of Pagari 1 in the Old Town hides a dark past that once was the KGB Prison Cells in Tallinn. The former KGB headquarters building has long been a symbol of the former Soviet oppression in Estonia. In the basement, suspected enemies of the state were imprisoned in tiny cells, sometimes up to 18 people at a time, before they were interrogated, then either shot or sent to labour camps in Siberia. Visit a part of the dark cellar, KGB Prison Cells is now open for visitors.Q Pagari 1 (entrance on Pikk 59), tel. +372 668 02 50, www.vabamu. ee/kgb-prison-cells. OpenWed - Sun 11:00-18:00. Admission €5, reduced €4, family €11. Joint ticket with Vabamu Museum of Occupations and Freedom available.

In the period from 1941 to 1991, Estonia was occupied briefly by Nazi Germany and then for four and a half decades by the USSR. The history of this difficult period comes to life in this modern museum on the edge of OldTown. After extensive renovations, this now, state-of-the-art museum has reopened with a new permanent exhibition ‘Freedom Without Borders’, which looks at occupations, resistance, restoration, and freedom from five different perspectives: crimes against humanity, Estonians in the free world, life in Soviet Estonia, the restoration of independence, and finally - freedom. The exhibition can be selfexplored or guided by an entertaining, e-tour guide, available in nine languages (Estonian, Russian, English, Finnish, German, French, Spanish, Latvian, Lithuanian). The fascinating exhibits are punctuated by personal possessions from those that escaped, lived through or were exiled to Siberia during the occupation – bringing a very human element to the situations they faced and how they coped with them. Their stories are also told here, often in their own words, which truly bring their experiences to life. Vabamu also has a special exhibition tailored for children, where different stories are told for different age groups.Q Toompea 8, tel. +372 668 02 50, www. vabamu.ee/en. From October through April open Wed – Sun 11:00 – 18:00. Admission €11, reduced €7, family €23. Joint ticket with KGB Prison Cells available.

Estonian War Museum - General Laidoner Museum

KGB PRISON CELLS

KGB Prison Cells

Vabamu Museum of Occupations and Freedom

Sightseeing & Museums

ART MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

The ultimate destination for an art history enthusiast is Kadriorg - home of the Presidential Palace, lovely manicured gardens, ponds, fountains and everything else one might expect from a sight built to amuse Russian royalty and aristocracy. Commissioned by Peter the Great and completed in 1725 for Catherine I, this was a summer cottage if you will, surrounded by magnificent grounds with a view to the sea.Today you can still find many of the original structures, including the main Kadriorg Palace, which now houses the Kadriorg Art Museum, with a fantastic display of European and Russian artists.

The younger sister of the museum is the world-class KUMU, which houses primarily contemporary artworks in various mixed media.

The neighbouring and smaller Mikkel Museum displays an impressive private art collection of European, Russian and Chinese paintings, prints, porcelain and icons donated to the museum by Johannes Mikkel in 1994.

In the Old Town the 13th-century gothic Niguliste Church - Art Museum displays a wall-sized fragment of Bernt Notke’s spooky, 15th-century masterpiece Dance Macabre and a fascinating collection of medieval religious art.

For modern art head to the Contemporary Art Museum of Estonia where the exhibitions are constantly changing.

Another destination for enjoying modern art is the Tallinn Art Hall and Galleries that runs a number of alternating exhibitions at their two locations.

KaiArtCentre inNoblessnerholdscontemporary art exhibitions and cinema screenings and is home to Temnikova & Kasela art gallery that runs exhibitions by local and foreign artists.

Unique multimedia art exhibition at DigitiviaMultimedia Art Space Tallinn combines live art projection and music creating a new way to experience world-famous art.

The Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design displays works of Estonian applied art and intriguing temporary exhibitions.

And if architecture is your passion, the Museum of Estonian Architecture housed in the historic Rotermann Salt Storage is an architectural curiosity in its own right and covers the history of 20th century Estonian architecture.

Also with design in mind, the small yet happening Design and Architecture Gallery runs various, rotating exhibits of Estonian product design.

Photography enthusiasts can head to the fascinating Museum of Photography housed in a rather small, 14th century town prison behind the old Town Hall that houses an extensive exhibition on Estonian photography, mainly devoted to the early days of the art form covering the 1840 - 1940 period.

For newer photo art exhibits head to Telliskivi Creative City in Kalamaja where you have two neighbouring galleries. Juhan Kuus Documentary Photo Centre which specialises in documentary photography, and the internationally renowned and truly larger than life Fotografiska Tallinn location, which showcases arguably the world’s best photographers works in their regularly changing exhibitions.

Check here for an extensive list of art galleries.

Dance Macabre at Niguliste Church - Art Museum

Sightseeing & Museums

TALLINN ART HALL & GALLERIES

Discover some of the most daring and avantgarde temporary art exhibitions from Estonia and abroad! As the historic modernist landmark from 1934 at Vabaduse Square is in restoration, the institution is currently exhibiting in two venues – the Tallinn Art Hall Lasnamäe pavilion (located at Jaan Koorti 24) and Tallinn City Gallery. While addressing the most pressing issues in contemporary society, Tallinn Art Hall provides a fascinating programme for all audiences including performances, concerts, talks and educational events for children.

Currentandupcomingexhibitions:

TALLINN ART HALL LASNAMÄE PAVILION

November 19 - February 05, 2023: Is There Hope for Lovely Creatures?

Getting there:

FOTOGRAFISKA TALLINN

Internationally renowned Fotografiska’s Tallinn location is in the Telliskivi Creative City. The gallery or meeting place is known for bringing the world’s best photography to its walls, and its Tallinn location is no exception. The aim of this urban meeting place is to redefine the traditional museum space, where visitors are invited to linger and become inspired.

Fotografiskaincludesexhibitionandeventspaces, a café, a gift shop, a restaurant and a rooftop bar. The restaurant, run by one of Estonia’s top chefs Peeter Pihel, is located on the sixth floor, offering panoramic views of the city. The restaurant’s concept is ‘sustainable pleasure’, which combines top quality dining using sustainable ingredients with a zero waste policy.

Current exhibitions:

June 17 - November 20: Frank Ockenfels 3 ‘Introspection’

August 19 - January 15, 2023: Cho Gi-Seok

‘Coexistence’

September 25 - February 26, 2023: Andy Wahrol‘Photo Factory’

QTelliskivi 60a/8, www.fotografiska.com/Tallinn

Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 10:0019:00. Tickets €12 - 17, reduced €9 - 14. Kids up to 16 years old free of charge.

You can take bus no 9 from‘Estonia’stop just across the street from the Estonia Concert Hall (Estonia pst.4) or alternatively bus 67 or 68 from ‘Estonia’stop located by the nearby Teatri square and get off at the‘Kotka kauplus’stop. On disembarking, turn right and take the stairs to Lindakivi Bridge. Cross the bridge and you’re there!

Arriving by car, you can park on the opposite side of Laagna tee in the car park of Kalevipoja MiniRimi supermarket at Kalevipoja põik 8. From the car park, head to the other side of the supermarket, turn left and head towards Lindakivi Bridge, which will take you directly to the Lasnamäe Pavilion.

Q Jaan Koorti 24, tel. +372 644 28 18, www. kunstihoone.ee. Open 12:00-19:00; closed Mon, Tue. Free admission.

TALLINN CITY GALLERY

November 12 - January 15, 2023: Bad Ideas

QHarju13,tel.+3726442818,www.kunstihoone. ee. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue. Free admission.

Fotografiska. Photo by K.Kalda

Tallinn Art Hall Lasnamäe Pavillion

FOR FAMILIES

Most museums in Tallinn have made an effort to offer knowledge and entertainment hand-inhand, but some are naturally more exciting than others. The Maritime Museum’s Seaplane Harbour and the Kiek in De Kök fortifications have the biggest ‘cool’ factor out of the ones that we have already covered. And the outdoor attractions like the Zoo, Open Air Museum and Botanical Gardens allow the little ones to run their energy out while offering plenty of entertainment and new knowledge for the whole family.

Here are a few more that are more geared to families.

This one is in ways perhaps slightly creepy, but also very educational, and highly entertaining. The EstonianHealthMuseum has put together some really great interactive displays centred around the human body and all of its fascinating details. There’s even a special section on bacteria and parasites (you can’t say we didn’t warn you, right?).

For more lighthearted fun head over to the interactive Museum of Puppetry Arts exhibiting feature masks, stage sets, costumes and yes, lots of puppets. A great chance to learn all about the art and science behind puppetry throughout the ages.

The Estonian Museum of Natural History is also a great destination for families, and has a myriad of taxidermied animals and interesting

temporary exhibitions. It really packs a lot of punch into a fairly small space - by museum standards.

The Estonian Theatre and Music Museum’s main exhibition “Stories and Songs” introduces Estonian history through theatre and music, and it offers plenty of things and hands-on exhibits to entertain the little ones, such as instruments to play and costumes to try on.

And finally a museum dedicated specifically for the littlest ones is the Children’s Museum Miiamilla with ‘fingers-on’, playful exhibits that are sure to stimulate the kids to the point of exhaustion. A wide range of play parks and jungle gyms outside as well when the weather cooperates.

MUSEUM OF PUPPETRY ARTS

Look behind the scenes of the fascinating world of puppetry. This interactive museum is fun and educational for the whole family. Visitors can try their hand at being an actor, director, artist, or stage master. Exhibitions feature masks, stage sets, costumes, props, and puppets of all shapes and sizes. Step 50 years back in time and watch old performances and meet the people who used to work at the Puppet Theatre using the Time Machine. Performances can be enjoyed in the Ferdinand Hall from September to June.  Q Nunne 4, tel. +372 667 95 42, www. eestinoorsooteater.ee. Open: Tue - Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €8, reduced €5, family €20. Booking of games, workshops and guided tours for groups should be done at least seven days in advance.

Museum of Puppetry Arts

OUTDOOR ATTRACTIONS

While the summer might be the best time to be outdoors, that certainly doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the outside in winter. From the Estonian Open Air Museum to the Tallinn Zoo, there are exciting outdoor attractions to discover any time of year.

Lions and tigers and zebras, oh my! Visit the Tallinn Zoo for a truly ‘animalistic’ time. This relatively large zoo has elephants, polar bears, wallabies and a bunch of wild asses, among many other fascinating creatures.

ESTONIAN OPEN AIR MUSEUM

Put on your hiking boots! This outdoor museum includesawhopping70buildings,mostlyfarm-related, sprawled out across 70ha of forest and land in Rocca al Mare, on the shore of the Kopli Gulf. There are even a couple of windmills, sheep, rabbits, chickens, and you can also take a ride on the horse-drawn wagon or sleigh, depending on the weather. The newest addition to the museum, the fully furnished kolkhoz apartment building is widely popular and won the best Estonian museum exhibit award in 2021. Informative signs in Estonian, Russian, English and German guide you through 150 years of farming history. Along the way you’ll also be welcomed by various landladies or landlords dressed in the appropriate wear for the era of building(s) they tend to, who will be happy to share colourful stories from the farm, candy shop, tavern etc. and it certainly brings the structures and history to life. Sample the pea soup and other traditional and hearty foods at the Kolu tavern (Kolu Kõrts) and pay a visit to the Lau shop where you can buy 1930’s themed sweets and handicrafts. Take bus N°21 or 21b from the Viru stop to the Rocca al Mare stop.

Q Vabaőhumuuseumi tee 12, tel. +372 654 91 00/+372 654 91 01, www.evm.ee. Open Tue - Sun

10:00 - 19:00 (ticket office, museum shop and buildings 10:00 - 17:00). September 23 - April 21 admission €8, reduced €6, family €16. A joint family ticket for theTallinn Zoo and Open Air Museum is €17, and it may be used on separate days.

TALLINN BOTANICAL GARDEN

With the richest collection of live plants in Estonia with around 8,000 species arranged on 23ha of land, the gardens are a well-kept secret. In colder months you’ll find a piece of tropical paradise here, with large modern greenhouses where you can discover displays of tropical, subtropical and desert plants. There are many special exhibitions and events throughout the year. Take bus N°34A or 38 to the Kloostrimetsa stop.

Q Kloostrimetsa tee 52, tel. +372 606 26 66, www. botaanikaaed.ee. Open 11:00-16:00. Oct.10th through April 30th: admission 5€, reduced 3€, family 10€. A joint ticket for the Tallinn Botanical Garden and TV Tower is €17, reduced and family fares available as well. A joint family ticket for Tallinn Zoo, Estonian Museum of Natural History and Tallinn Botanic Garden is €15 and it may be used on separate days. See website for further admission info.

Estonian Open Air Museum

Tallinn Botanical Garden

Tallinn is one of the oldest cities in Europe, founded in 1248, but some of the earliest human settlements date back 5000 years. A city can’t be around so long without a few dark secrets, hidden passageways, and haunted places to explore. With this in mind, we decided that this would be a good time to go ghost hunting - specifically, to find out which places in Old Town are associated with spooky stories and paranormal activity. It’s pretty much required for any town as old as Tallinn to have a number of such tales, but while researching the subject we were surprised to learn that, without exaggeration, almost every house in Old Town is reputed to be haunted by some spirit or another. Some of accounts of ghostly activity have taken on the quality of legends, while others, with more recent witnesses, are simply creepy.

RATASKAEVU16,THEDEVIL’SWEDDING

If you happen to be standing near the so-called Cat’s Well on Rataskaevu street, look up and house number 16 and you’ll notice something odd - one of the windows on the top floor is bricked up from the inside, and has false curtains painted on the inside. This 15th century house happens to be the subject of Tallinn’s most famous ghost legend, a story called‘The Devil’sWedding.’

Thetalegoeslikethis:Longago,thelandlordofthis house, desperate for money and near suicidal with despair, was approached by a mysterious, cloaked man who offered a huge sum of money to rent the upstairs flat for a party. The renter’s only condition was complete privacy. The landlord readily agreed. During the evening in question, loud noises were heard, as if a hundred guests were tramping up

the stairs, and an ungodly racket issued from the room. Precisely at one o’clock, the sound abruptly stopped, as if the party had simply vanished. The next day the landlord ‘s servant, who had been spying through the keyhole, was found mortally ill. Before dying, the servant claimed to have seen the Devil himself having a wedding party in the flat.

For centuries, people passing this house late at night have heard unexplainable party noises, and these only stopped once a later owner of the flat, tired of the complaints, bricked up the window.

LÜHIKE JALG GATE TOWER, THE EXECUTIONER

The three neighbouring towers next to the Danish Garden on Toompea all have ghost stories associatedwiththem.Oneofthese,thegatetower at the top of Lühike Jalg street, can be considered Old Town’s most haunted spot, simply due to the number and persistence of reported incidents. Its fame in this regard has made it the subject of several psychic studies and investigations into the paranormal. Sightings have included a pair of monks, a woman in old-fashioned dress, and even a fire-spitting dog. In one version of events, spiritualists in the 1930 contacted the troubled spirit of a monk who had been the town executioner early in life, and couldn’t atone for his previous occupation.

STABLE TOWER (TALLITORN), A HAUNTED PRISON

The small, round tower next to the abovementioned Lühike Jalg Gate Tower also seems to be infested with spooks. It served as a prison for minor offenses in the 16th and 17th centuries. Town records from November 1626 tell of the son of Burgomaster B. von Gerten, who was locked up for something called an‘engagement offence.’

According to the records, the young man was so afraid of the ghosts that reputedly haunted the tower, that he was given special permission to have his servant accompany him. Both were found pale and extremely shaken the next day, claiming to have been harassed by spirits, and were relocated. In a more colourful version of the story, a sceptical councilman, tired of the prisoners’ complaints about a glowing skeleton that tormented them during their internment, decided to debunk the case by moving the prisoners out and spending the night there himself. Unfortunately, nobody knows what he saw. He was carried out the next morning in a catatonic state, and died a few days later.

Lühike jalg gate

VIRGIN’S TOWER, THE DRINKING MONK

In medieval times, this large, square tower at the edge of Toompea served as a prison for prostitutes. Now it’s home to a café, but it seems that its new function has done nothing to convince resident ghosts to change take the hint and haunt a less busy location. Tallinners have long known the tower as a haunted building. Café employees have reported eerie footsteps and scratching noises for years, and there have even been sightings of a monk-like figure in the cellar, who appears to be drinking wine.

GUSTAV ADOLF GYMNASIUM, SPECTRAL NUNS

As if school kids didn’t have enough stress as it is, the kids at the Gustav Adolf Gymnasium also have to worry about being spooked between classes. This school, located at Suur-Kloostri 16, has the proud distinction of being Tallinn’s oldest, established by the education-minded Swedish King Gustav Adolf in 1631. Earlier, however, this had been the site of St. Michael’s Convent, which began operating back in 1249. The nearby Nunne (nun) street gets its name from this important institution, but it seems the convent has left its mark in another way as well. Through the years, students and staff at the school have reported noises that sound like the ringing of church bells, and spectral figures of women in nun’s habits have been seen moving through the corridors.

SUUR-KARJA 10, BONES IN THE WALL

For centuries, this nondescript house on SuurKarja had the reputation of being haunted. The house itself is quite old – records of a dwelling house existing on this spot go back to the 13th century. People living here up until the late 1920s claimtohaveheardstrangenoisesthroughoutthe building, including knocking sounds, scratching and mysterious voices. In 1928, during an extensive remodelling, workers supposedly found a skeleton sealed up in one of the house’s walls. Once the bones were removed and buried, all the noises stopped. Unfortunately, now residents of the building have a different variety of night-time disturbance to contend with - the location houses the Can Can Room, a sketchy, 24-hour strip club.

NOVEMBER IN FOLK CALENDAR

October and November are dark months in Estonia, with the days getting shorter and the nights a lot longer and colder. Historically, Estonians did not celebrate Halloween, but observed St. Martin’s Day and All Souls Day in the folk calendar. St. Martin’s Day (November 11) celebrates the end of the agrarian year and the beginning of winter. On this day, children dress up as men and go from door to door, singing and telling jokes in exchange for treats. On All Souls Day (November 2nd), Estonians light candles in the windows and on the graves of loved ones in remembrance.You can visit the Metsakalmistu Cemetery in the evening to see hundredsofcandlesburningontheplotsinthis beautiful forest cemetery.

You can read more about these legends and ghost stories in our article Haunted Tallinn Or see for yourself on a ghost tour of the city run by Nordic Experience where one of their knowledgeable guides take you on a walking tour of the haunted streets of Tallinn at night. Ronk Ronk Ghost and Folklore Tours also offers tours like‘Oldest Ghost of Tallinn’ and ‘Hidden Stories of Down-town of Tallinn’.

You can of course wander through the city visiting some of the more eerie places yourself. You need not walk far in the Old Town to discover Vaimu (Ghost) Street between Lai and Pikk. It’s not clear why residents believed the street to be haunted, but at one point they objected when the town governor wanted to change the street’s name to ‘Evil.’

Monk’s statue in Danish King’s Garden

Lühike jalg street

Activities Activities

There are loads of activities available in and around Tallinn. From water parks to bowling and skating, we list a plethora of handson activities for the more adventurous visitors to enjoy. Some activities may even result in the loss of hands, but most of those types of adventures require that you sign a waiver and naturally Tallinn In Your Pocket cannot be held liable if you do lose a limb.

FUN FOR THE FAMILIES AND THE YOUNG AT HEART

Tallinnisagreatdestinationforafamilyvacationand there’s plenty to see and do at any time of the year.

EDUCATIONAL YET THRILLING

The Proto Invention Factory, located in a Peter The Great-era submarine factory, is the perfect backdrop for this science museum/virtual reality/invention theme park. With numerous, hands-on, VR goggles-on, mind-blowing main exhibits, numerous smaller attractions and more information than an average brain can handle.

Also educational yet loads of fun, the Energy Discovery Centre is the place to discover science with a sometimes ‘very’ hands-on approach. The building houses unique historic devices and more than 130 interactive exhibits dealing with themes such as electricity, magnetics, nuclear energy, sound and optics. Their ‘faraday cage’ with ‘Tesla coil’is positively electrifying.

The newest addition to educational entertainment isthe EuropaExperience,aninteractiveexhibition area presenting a deep dive into how the European Union works, as well as its people, policies and how theirinitiativesplayanimportantroleinbothEurope and the wider world. A great place to gain a greater understanding of the EU, and equally interesting for residents and non-residents alike.

ENERGY DISCOVERY CENTRE

Based in a renovated, over 100-year-old power plant building just opposite Old Town and the first of its kind in the Baltics, the Energy Discovery Centre is the place to discover science with a hands-on approach. The building houses unique historic devices and more than 130 hands-on exhibits dealing with themes such as electricity, magnetics, nuclear energy, sound and optics. Perhaps one of the coolest exhibits will actually allow the visitor to experience ‘lighting’ - up close and personal, via the Tesla Coil. They also have a full-dome planetarium, temporary exhibitions, interesting theatre programmes and some great workshops (theatre and workshops are available for groups, pre-booking is a must).

Q Põhja pst. 29, tel. +372 620 90 20, www. energiakeskus.ee. Open 10:00-16:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-18:00. Admission €10, reduced €3 - 8, family €30.

Super Skypark (see listed)

Energy Discovery Centre

JUST FOR FUN

A popular choice for special events, parties or for those who just enjoy the thrill, Lasergame offers laser games and other exciting electronic adventures both indoors and outdoors. There are two locations, each with different gaming options.

Bowling is a great way to spend some quality time among family or friends. Both Kuulsaal and Akadeemia Bowling are great choices for this. If you want a few more options besides rolling the balls, then head to O’Leary’s at the Kristiine Centre, which also offers shuffle board, VR games and other interactive entertainment.

Minigolf is also a nice, classic, truly relaxed way to spend the time and you can do this at Park Minigolf in the Nautica Shopping Centre near the port, or at the more flashy Adventure Golf Centre, located in the lower base of theVabaduse Square.They have a 17-hole mini golf course, disc golf, ladder golf, a Full Swing golf simulator and a 5D cinema.

If you’re looking to burn more calories, head to energy intensive Super Skypark, a massive trampoline and play centre that also features bumper cars, a 7D cinema and a separate mini science centre called Sky Lab. And as if that’s not enough - a massive, rooftop ferris-wheel, the

Skywheel ofTallinn where you can enjoy a slow ride and magnificent views of the city 120 metres above sea level, is also located on the roof of the same building.Truly a unique experience.

Everyone loves taking in a good film, and it’s always somehow more exotic when doing it in a foreign country. It’s also the perfect choice for a rainy day, or less than desirable weather conditions. Cinemas in Estonia run films in the original language with Estonian/English/Russian subtitles depending on the movie. The exception however are films truly geared for young children - these films are usually dubbed, but often have subtitles. You can check to see what the deal is on the websites before booking a seat. The latest Hollywood flicks are aired at the Apollo Cinemas and Coca-Cola Plaza. For more artsy and international movies, check out Sõprus, and Artis. For an IMAX experience head over to the Cinamon in T1, always an amazing exercise for the senses.

AKADEEMIA BOWLING

With sixteen lanes this is the largest and newest bowling outfit in Estonia. Bowling lanes are €18 - 33/hr depending on the time. They also offer pool tables for €6 - 9 per hour.   Q Akadeemia tee 30, tel. +372 656 06 46, www.amb.ee. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-22:00.

Akadeemia Bowling

WET & WILD

For an entertaining time of the swimming and spa variety, and for those into watersports, spend an afternoon at one of Tallinn’s many family-friendly spas.

If it’s the water slides and tubes you’re after, Kalev Spa Water Park and Atlantis H2O Water Park in Viimsi have just that and more. Both include relaxing jacuzzis and sauna centres with a separate entry.

The Mustamäe Elamus Spa doesn’t have the tubes but has a very nice and sizable kids water play area and is certainly the best choice if you have smaller kids.

KALEV SPA WATER PARK

Kalev Spa has one of the largest indoor water parks in Estonia, as well as the only 50-meter pool in the city. The newly renovated water park includes four slides, children pools, a massage pool, and saunas. The Sauna-Oasis is the newest addition to the complex and is for adults only. Here you can relax in peace and quiet in different jacuzzis and saunas. The fitness centre offers different group workouts and a spacious gym with a view of the pool. You can also book a private sauna with Jacuzzi and private access to the water park (for up to 15 persons).Q Aia 18, tel. +372 649 33 70, www.kalevspa.ee/veekeskus. Open 6:30 - 20:30, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:30. For 3 hour visit, the price for adults €14-17, reduced €12-14 and a family ticket (2 adults plus up to 3 children) is €4549. 1.5 hour admission also available.

MUSTAMÄE ELAMUS SPA

This spa and sauna complex offers plenty of options for relaxation, for both young and old. With 22 different saunas, different spa treatments, a 25-metre swimming pool, as well as kids pool, what more could you ask for. Elamus Spa has three different types of admission: the swimming pass with traditional sauna access; the friends and family pass, which gets you access to 13 saunas, outdoor terracce, saunabar and the pool daily from 10:00-23:00; and the Spa 21+ pass, which is meant for those 18 and older and includes access to 22 saunas, the pool, sauna bar, outdoor terrace and free towel and robe use. From autumn to spring, there’s a DJ and the spa is open until 01:00. Q Akadeemia tee 30, tel. +372 650 20 00, www. elamusspa.ee. Open 08:00-23:00; Sat, Sun 10:0023:00, Spa 21+ open Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. Spa admission €15-29 and SPA 21+ €30-45, swimming pool admission €9-14, depending on the time of your visit.

Kalev Spa Water Park

Mustamäe Elamus Spa

WINTER ACTIVITIES

While it may be tempting to escape the cold by staying indoors, there’s plenty to keep you occupied outdoors in winter.

SLEDDING

If there’s snow, the hill of the Song Festival Grounds offers one of Tallinn’s best sledding hills. Schnelli Park, just outside of the Old Town also has a few short, but steep slopes to conquer. Our favorite sledding hills are in the park forest between Nõmme and Mustamäe, accessible near the Nõmme market - just follow the kids with sleds. Whichever slope you choose, you’ll have to bring your own sled. And, the parks are not supervised, so sled at your own risk.

SKIING

Did you know that you don’t even have to leave the city to find a ski trail? Tallinn has several options, including lit trails in Pirita (Rummu tee 3d, http://piritaspordikeskus.ee) and Nõmme (Külmallika 15, https://sportkeskus.ee). Ski equipment rental is available, as are lockers and saunas. Nõmme Snow Park (Vana-Mustamäe 16, www.nommelumepark.ee) offers downhill skiing and snowboarding, too, with lit slopes, as does Vimka Ski Resort (Lubja Street, www.vimkapark. ee) in Viimsi.

NÕMME SNOW PARK

Skiing and snowboarding abound at Tallinn’s only organised snow hill. In case they wouldn’t let you on the plane with your equipment, you’ll be able to rent skis and snowboards too. Adult slope tickets cost between €16-35, children up until 12 years €12-28 depending on the day of the week. See website for details.

Q Vana-Mustamäe 16, tel. +372 56 15 91 60, www.nommelumepark.ee. Open 14:00-21:00; Sun, Sat 10:00-21:00.

HARJU STREET OUTDOOR ICE RINK

Uisuplats, an outdoor skating rink in Old Town, provides a perfect opportunity for slippery, winter fun. There’s even a fast-food eatery onsite, which is open all year long. The rink is located adjacent Harju street, next to the Niguliste Church. Toilets and lockers on site. For more details, see website.

Q Harju Street, tel. +372 56 24 67 39, https:// uisupark.ee. Open 10:00-22:00. Operates from November until March. Prices per hour are: children up to 14 y.o. €5 - 7, adults €7 - 9. Skate rental €4 - 8. Using your own skates is also permitted.

Nõmme-Mustamäe forest sledding hills

LEAVE YOUR KIDS BEHIND

While all the previous venues can also be enjoyed by adults and kids alike, there are a few places that are more geared towards the adult crowd.

Shooting ranges definitely offer a great adrenaline rush, excitement and are even highly educational - if you have never done any shooting, you might be surprised to find out it’s such a fulfilling pastime. Tondi Shooting Range and Tactical Shooting Centre are both good choices and likewise offer a wide variety of guns and shooting packages. Whether or not you are an advanced, intermediate or beginner shooterthey both focus on safety and have highly trained instructors to help you direct your bullets into the target center.

Another adrenaline booster is certain to be the TV Tower’s‘EdgeWalk’. As theTVTower is generally also a good deal of fun for kids, it’s a good idea to head there with the whole family and leave them to cheer you along, or scream in fear while you enjoy your leisurely stroll 170m above the ground while merely attached to a harness and some safety ropes.

Seeking out re-l-axion, instead of action? - Well, then adults only spas are truly the perfect escape. The Mustamäe Elamus Spa as well as the Viimsi Spa both feature adults only spa and sauna centres perfect for a romantic getaway, or just a super-chill getaway away from the kids. The age requirements are certainly in your favour at both spas, and are 18+ at Viimsi and 21+ at Mustamäe spa. You can thank us later for the tips.

Sweating your worries away at a sauna is indeed a very Estonian way to relax - the reason why the forementioned spas also feature a wide choice of saunas. But if you want to go more traditional, Kalma Sauna is Tallinn’s oldest public bath and they use the traditional method of wood heating.

If you’re looking for a perfect cultural evening and something truly refined, make sure to check out the Estonian National Opera whose repertoire consists of classical and contemporary operas, ballets, as well as operettas, musicals, and frequent performances by internationallyrenowned guests. Or perhaps the Estonia Concert Hall, the premier venue for all things in the classical music world. Make sure to see our shopping section, just in case you forgot to pack the tuxedo and or couture gown.

Just thinking about it makes you that much more cultured, and to round out the evening you may want to take a look at our upscale or romantic dining options as well.

As you can see, Tallinn truly is a fantastic place to escape boredom and everyday life. We’ve given you a great list to ensure your time in the city is well spent, no matter if you like to take things fast and furious, or slow and leisurely, with or without kids - you’re covered here.

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Mustamäe Elamus Spa

Restaurants Restaurants & Cafés

Even 10 years ago, your eatery choices inTallinn were rather limited - there were certainly a lot of places to eat, but most fell into the pub/café/lounge category and many even had a cafeteria ethos. i.e. a lot of pork and potatoes, deep fried foods and Russian-style dumplings. Leap forward to today, and the scene has evolved so much that the level of quality, choice, creativity and service is now on par with most Scandinavian nations.

FINE DINING

Arguably, many of the best romantic dining restaurants are upscale and many of the upscale establishments also fall under the romantic category - just keep that in mind when choosing an excellent dining experience and you’ll certainly be satisfied.

Locatedinthebeautifullyrenovatedandrevitalised Noblessner Port area, 180° by Matthias Dieter is a cream-of-the-crop dining experience and a prime choice for those that believe food is more than mere eating.The restaurant recently became one of the two restaurants in the Baltics to have received a Michelin star.

The other Michelin star restaurant in Estonia is NOA Chef’s Hall, attached to the already popular and excellent NOA restaurant in Viimsi, just past Pirita district. This eatery provides a unique dining experience overlooking the Baltic Sea. Their multi-course tasting menu provides a rich culinary experience from start to finish, and alongside their stylish yet cosy atmosphere make NCH certainly worth a visit.

Back in Old Town at the high-end Telegraaf Hotel, Tchaikovsky delivers imperial cuisine with a Russian flare and every morsel, every opulent detail is truly superb - you will certainly leave with the excellent memory of a refined mea,l and a myriad of subtle flavour combinations on your tongue.

Old Town is certainly the hub of many highend eateries and you’ll find no better example than Restaurant 38. It’s super stylish, Michelin recommended and their cuisine is more akin to an artform than mere food. Their attention to detail is superb, atmosphere on another level, and the food is something to write home about.

Swisshotel’s Horisont Restaurant & Bar may have a great view, but we think the cuisine and top-notch service are even more spectacular. The folks at Horisont treat everyone like a VIP no matter who they are, every staffer’s move is like a beautiful waltz and every morsel of food a flavourful work of art. We’re pretty sure that if you dine here once, it won’t be your last visit.

Photo by Rachel Claire, Pexels.

ROMANTIC

If you happen to be visiting with your partner or significant other, the choices for a romantic experience are indeed plentiful. There are a few ideas.

ISSEI Restaurant & Bar at the top floor of Radisson Collection Hotel impresses with an incredible view and offers guests a unique dining experience with delicious Peruvian-Japanese fusion cuisine and delightful cocktails.

One hot pick for this category is Anno, located right next to the bustling port area in a renovated industrial-erastonebuilding, whichissurprisingly cosy inside and certainly classy. They serve up cosmopolitan European cuisine with a twist and a flare, alongside some delightful wines. It certainly makes for a lovely date-night.

Also located on the sea, with Kakumäe’s Haven harbour providing the backdrop - Puri is as happening as it is romantic, with sailboats and yachts coming and going in the warm season. Their cuisine is a treat, and a walk around the harbour and pier are always a lovely activity.

Controvento, one of the longest-running restaurants in Tallinn is located in the most romantic streets in Old Town, the St.Catherine’s passage and offers a cosy combination of medieval Estonian and rustic Italian. This stylish eatery has been a favourite of expats and locals for years, and deservedly so. The food here is absolutely top notch, with excellent pastas and

beef dishes complemented by a good selection of Italian wine.

Schlössle Hotel’s top-notch restaurant Stenhus is a combo of old world elegance, and modern style rolled into a fine Estonian dining experience.

In the beautiful Kadriorg district, French-style Rudolf impresses both in terms of style and culinary satisfaction. With a chef that has paid his dues at a Michelin star restaurant at the helm, and a team dedicated to details - Bon appetit!

ISSEI RESTAURANT & BAR

This rooftop restaurant and bar is located on the 24th floor of Tallinn’s flagship Radisson Hotel - it features an open-air terrace, exceptional views onto the Medieval Old Town, the thriving port area and an increasingly vibrant city. The worldclass menu offered here is termed Nikkei cuisine (Japanese-Peruvian fusion), where the finest ingredients and flavors come together to form something exceptional. Both the Japanese and Peruvians have a deep love of fresh fish and seafood in common, and that is how Nikkei cuisine came to life. It’s an entirely new culinary world to explore and experience - delicious and certainly unique. The food & design of this eatery/bar gets its inspiration from both the sea and land alike, making every guest feel that they are on a flavourful journey. A great spot for a special occasion or those looking for a culinary delight. Q Rävala pst.3 (Radisson Collection Hotel), tel. +372 682 3025, www.isseitallinn.ee. Open 17:00-00:00; Fri, Sat 17:00–02:00; closed Mon.

ISSEI Restaurant & Bar

CASUAL

For a little bit more of a laid back meal, with no need to dress up fancy and shell out as much as a small used car for dinner, Tallinn has got you well covered. However, it doesn’t mean the quality or atmosphere in these eateries leaves anything to be desired.

SituatedontheedgeofOldTownandoverlooking a lovely park, Kalev Spa Hotel’s restaurant Allee has a focus on fresh and healthy cuisine - it is attached to a spa after all. They offer extremely tasty menu items, a great kid’s menu (even healthy baby puree options) and a nice leisurely breakfast from 7-11am. This can also be enjoyed on their large outdoor terrace during the warm months.

MEKK Restaurant & Bar is inspired by the rural way of living and the versatility of the blessings and gifts that the Estonian nature offers.

One really quirky and chill spot is Manna La Roosa which sits just at the edge of Old Town in a historic, former apothecary. It’s a refined yet über kitsch locale, with great and unique cuisine, a superb cocktail menu and great for people watching from the terrace during the warmer months.

In Telliskivi you’ll find the incredibly chill Kivi Paber Käärid (Rock Paper Scissors) bar and eatery. Great tunes, excellent people, craft beers, signature cocktails and their cuisine is all gluten free - with a focus on the fresh as well as their own take on pub grub favourites.

In the same complex there’s the equally hip Fotografiska Restaurant. Situated in the photography museum of the same name, it sits atop the building and offers spectacular views of the city, a truly unique and stylish menu yet the atmosphere here is definitely relaxed. In terms of their food offerings they focus on sustainable food as well as farm to table freshness, which provides for a one-of-a-kind dining experience.

A little further out from the city centre you’ll find a great spot called HÜGGE, they have quite an eclectic menu with continental European favourites, Russian cuisine, a wide variety of sushi as well as a great breakfast which runs until 11am. For families with kids they also offer a great play area and fun children’s menu as well.

These are just a sample of the many chill spots to grab a bite, along the way we’re sure you’ll stumble upon more.

Fotografiska Restaurant

Restaurants

ALLEE

Located inside the Kalev Spa Hotel & Water Park, this sleek and modern restaurant offers beautiful views over the park as well as seating on a large outdoor terrace, during warmer months. Allee is all about being close to nature. This eatery offers a seasonal menu with a colourful international range of dishes using only fresh local ingredients - all with an emphasis on healthy foods that offer a wide range of flavours. Allee’s healthy and varied menu with an excellent drinks menu will satisfy even the most demanding of guests. They’ve also got a separate children’s and even a ‘baby puree menu’ on offer. Another plus is the  long breakfast which runs from 7:30 - 11:00. Q Aia 18/ Kanuti 2, tel. +372 649 30 33, www.kalevspa.ee

Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00.

FOTOGRAFISKA RESTAURANT

Fotografiska truly takes care of all your various senses. Whether you combine your experience with a tour of their iconic photo gallery or merely on its own, their rooftop restaurant is worth every bite. Run by one of Estonia’s top chefs, Peeter Pihel, the eatery is located on the sixth floor of the gallery, and offers great panoramic views of the city. The restaurant’s concept is‘sustainable pleasure’, which combines top quality dining using sustainable ingredients and a zero waste philosophy.

QJ-7,Telliskivi 60a/8, tel. +372 57 45 09 22, www. fotografiska.com/tallinn/en/restaurant. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; closed Mon, Sun.

Café open 09:00-19:00, Sun 09:00-18:00. €€€.

This classy restaurant and bar is inspired by the rural way of living and the versatility of the blessings and gifts that the Estonian nature offers all who embrace it. Under the watchful gaze of Executive Chef Rene Uusmees, the honest and authentic menu has been created bearing in mind the culinary artistry of the ancients, combined with the best flavours and ideas from cultures around the world. It mirrors the skills of the locals who have become masters of bringing together simple and authentic Estonian recipes while fusing them together with worldly classics and making it their own. Estonians have always had a deep connection with nature, they value their roots, appreciate the fresh produce created by nature as well as that cultivated by the local farmers, all the while keeping up with the increasingly cosmopolitan Estonia. Q Rävala pst.3, tel. +372 682 3020, www.restoranmekk.ee. Open 11:30–22:00; Sun 11:30–16:00. Breakfast Mon-Fri 06:30 – 10:30, SatSun 07:00 – 11:00.

Allee

MEKK RESTAURANT & BAR

MEKK Restaurant & Bar

Fotografiska Restaurant

DINING WITH KIDS

Dining with kids isn’t always an easy experience, luckily many of the eateries in Tallinn are fairly child-friendly with kids menus being the norm, and often they have a small kids play corner or at least some colouring books and crayons to help them pass the time while waiting for their meal. Some do go the extra mile however and or happen to be located with an outdoor playpark in the vicinity.

Platz in the RotermannQuarter is one of those spots, as there’s a decent playpark just outside and plenty of room to run and hills to climb.

Literaat is the restaurant attached to the Rahva Raamat bookstore in Telliskivi area, and it’s encouraged to grab a book or three to browse while waiting for your meal here. Just make sure to wipe your little one’s fingers down pretty well before they pick up the latest comic book after they eat.

The fabulous Lee at the edge of Old Town which is situated in a lovely courtyard garden provides top-notch cuisine and they have a lot of room for the kids to roam around in their beautiful garden.

The Estonian American-style Mack Bar-BQue chain at Ülemiste and Rocca al Mare shopping malls also have kids areas, as well as providing children’s menus which double as colouring sheets.

MOOS Resto in Mustamäe is a happy little spot with a little something tasty for everyone, large and small - including a great play area and childfriendly menu.

You can be sure that no child will wrinkle their nose if you offer to eat at the TV Tower Restaurant. A splendid menu for adults and a separate premium menu for children, combined with the spectacular views and entertainment offered by the TV Tower, will ensure a long and enjoyable dinner, during which you may not see your children too much. However, you will have to factor in the cost of tickets to the tower. Some discounts to the admission apply if you book the table ahead of time.

And the slightly further out Lucca on the way to Tabasalu, is truly a family restaurant with a large play area as well as serving up some decent Italian-style pizza.

Photo: Pexels, Elina Fairytale

TV Tower Restaurant

ITALIAN & PIZZA

There is no shortage of great Italian restaurants in Tallinn and you can find something to fit any occasion and budget.

For a more upscale experience we recommend La Bottega in Old Town where the beautiful atmosphere is combined with a menu boasting classic Italian dishes with a special emphasis on seafood and fish.

Another Old Town favourite is Controvento, which we covered under Romantic dining section.

Flavore is a top-notch Italian restaurant with a great atmosphere, chefs that truly care about feeding the soul as well as the body and all of their dishes are prepared with love and freshness. The pizza here is in fact so good that barely any crusts are left uneaten.

Just at the edge of the Lasnamäe district, Ciao Ragazzi Resto serves up authentic Italian cuisine, provides a stylish dining experience and even the occasional live music on weekends.Truly a family restaurant, the experience here is just overall cosy.

PIZZA is arguably one of the most popular‘ethnic’ origin foods in the world, add to that pasta plus other Italian favorites and usually everyone ends up with a happy tummy. Tallinn has a good deal of these restaurants in the city, and when it comes to pizza you’ll find a‘buona selezione’of authentic Italian, American style and even a few rather Estonian variants.

Foratrulytop-notch,authenticItalianexperience, head over to Pulcinella - owned and primarily cheffed by natives of Napoli, their wood oven pizzas are melt-in-your-mouth delicious and they also offer a great selection of other national dishes at this OldTown, cellar establishment.

For a more informal experience, but also rather true to the original style and flavours of Italy, head over to the Baltijaam train station to Pizzergreat prices and they even have mini pizzas if you don’t want to commit to something larger.

A combination American pan pizza with an Estonian twist can be found at the aptly named Pizza Americana, just next to the Freedom Square. It’s fairly similar to Pizza Hut, yet looking at the menu there are a fair number of items offering ingredients that are rather unfamiliar to thetraveller.Youcanaddortakeawayingredients, build your own pizzas, and in the end it’s a great and very cheesy experience.

Flavore

ETHNIC

Just a few years ago, with the exception of a handful of establishments, it was a bit tricky to find good, authentic ethnic cuisine in Tallinnthat is no longer the case, and while it is still a bit lacking in a few categories, for a city of its size the choices are plenty. The sushi and Asian categories are certainly chalk full of great and even authentic options with either the chefs, owners or both hailing from all over the continent.

Intermsof JAPANESE OR SUSHI, looknofurther than Kampai in the Noblessner Port area. The owner and head chef is Japanese and his vision to bring a little piece of Tokyo to Tallinn in the form of a rather street food market experience is truly Ichiban. It’s our go-to when we’re craving a full-on Japanese meal.

Another great, mostly sushi place (although they do offer some other favourites) and also Japanese owned is Tokumaru. They have become a chain and are so popular that several food stores carry their pre-prepared sushi boxes. Try the Solaris Shopping Centre or Baltijaam Market locations for the best experiences.

A popular sushi/Asian fusion spot is MySushi, which has a number of locations, the biggest and most central is just across the street from Old Town on Mere pst. You might even be able to catch one of their super discount days where the sushi is 50% off. Not entirely authentic, but the quality is quite decent and they offer various fried makis selections.

Moving a little further west on the continent brings us to India, and Tallinn does in fact have a few great INDIAN offerings.

Elevant in Old Town has got a great ambience and it begins with a climb up a winding staircase in a historic building and is followed by a kind of a turn of the century, upscale Indian brothel vibe. Their cuisine is very authentic and all of your favourite curries, tandooris and Naan breads are done perfectly here.

Another authentic Old Town spot is Chedi, the founder hails from Goa and the UK and his chefs prepare an otherworldly cuisine, using some rare recipes in this unique half-cellar eatery. They have a sister location called LendavTaldrik (a play on the Estonian Flying Saucer) in the Telliskivi Creative City which has a completely different, modern vibe yet offers food equally as good.

Just next door to India is the neighbouring Pakistan and Zaiqa, at the edge of Old Town on Aia Street prepares some excellent PAKISTANI FOOD, just the way they do back home. It’s kind of a mix between Indian and Middle Eastern cuisine, the easiest way to describe it if you’ve never eaten it before. It’s a very small place with just a few seats, best for takeaway or delivery back to the hotel or rental apartment. In addition they also offer truly delicious pizza, done in a style all its own and everything served here is Halal.

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Photo: Pexels, Vinicius Benedit

No Asian restaurant list would be complete without mentioning some CHINESE dining options.

One of the best in this category is Han’s, located near the giant tower of the Hotel Olümpia. They are full on Chinese here, and offer many of the classics as well as many delightful spicy, yet full of flavour Szechuan cuisine.

For those that aren’t too picky, yet still have a hankering for Chinese, you can check out the Old Town situated Golden Dragon or Chi, which can be found Nautica shopping centre. Both have a large range of pan-Asian dishes, with Chinese cuisine being their main focus. The prices are decent and the dishes large enough to share a few with friends.

If you’ve got a hankering for some burritos or tacos and a margherita or a refreshing Mexican beer, there are a few MEXICAN eateries in Tallinn that can fill that desire.

Located slightly off the beaten track, in Kalamaja is Ancho. They’re right up there in terms of quality and have tasty and rather authentic Mexican cuisine. The cheddar-filled, homemade jalapeño poppers are amazing and the fajitas sizzling with flavour.They also serve late on Friday and Saturday nights which if you happen to be bar hopping in the area.

Located in the Rotermann City industrial space, the atmosphere at this Taqueria is both cosy and interesting. While the menu isn’t huge, they feature a lot of the classics (tacos, quesadillas etc.), and all with various meaty fillings - some great veggie options for you herbivores too.

One of the best in its class for a MEATY MEAL is the Goodwin Steak House, in Old Town near the sweater wall, and it’s one of the best steak spots in the city. The interior is rich and woody, the service is efficient and the imported cuts of beef are excellent. If a full-on beef-fest is a little too heavy, you could always drop by during the week for their business lunch specials or just grab a mouth-watering burger.

Photo: Pexels, Hana Brannigan

Pull, in the Rotermann Quarter, and operated by one of Estonia’s top grill masters - certainly fits the vibe of an upscale grill restaurant. The menu has a little bit of everything, with some nice seafood dishes, vegetarian and vegan options, and of course - great melt in your mouth steaks, and all in a superbly renovated industrial environment.

Switching gears slightly, we head over to the Georgian Tavern Tbilisi, situated at the back endof OldTown,thiscosyandwarmtavernoffers up a real taste of Georgia. No not the American State, but the one located in Europe at the Asian continental crossroads.You’ll find all the Georgian classics such as khinkali (meat dumplings), grilled shashlik (meat skewers) and our favourite, the mouth-watering hachapuri (melted cheese filled flat-bread) among many others and everything is prepared fresh here.

For a tasteofArgentina, make sure to check out Siga La Vaca, this colourful restaurant located just around the corner fromTelliskivi inKalamaja - which prides itself on its parrilla, or grilled meat. Chef Simon, a trained parilla chef offers beautifully grilled steaks from Brazil and Uruguay, all served with chimichurri. Service is very friendly and staff are very knowledgeable, and happy to talk to you about the menu which includes some great seafood and tasty appetisers as well.

There ‘aint’ a lot of great AMERICAN-STYLE places to be found in the city (other than Burger King, McDonalds and KFC), but there are a few that do a reasonable job of putting together a more Yankee dining experience - one of which is BabyBackRibs&BBQ located in theViru Centre. You gotta step into this authentically Americanstyle ribs joint. Upholstered booths, bottles of Heinz 57 on the tables and a piped-in radio station from Louisiana make it perhaps more American than any place in America. The long menu includes pizzas, milkshakes and burgers, but the steaks and ribs are the stars here.

Another contender in the category is the Route 33 Grill, this American-style restaurant/nightspot is certainly aiming to become the best eatery in its class in Tallinn. From what we’ve experienced so far, they’ve done a decent job. We quite enjoyed their burger last time we stopped by and the wings had just the right amount of bite.

Photo: Pexels, Kasumi Ioffler

DEREKU BURGER

Certainly one of the better burgers in Estonia, Derek, an Estonian Canadian went through great lengths to create the perfect ‘American’ meaty sandwich - now a more or less silent partner, he and the head chef Fleur still tinker and tweak the magic formula to get it just right. The homemade patties are sourced from 100% Estonian meat, and are truly tasty. Decent prices, custom buns, fresh greens and a variety of special sauces all help to make this a sure bet. Not only burgers now, they also serve all-day breakfast, alongside a variety of other tasty ‘comfort cuisines’. They’re always adding things to the menu and conjuring up new ways to enjoy food, which they truly love to create.QFaehlmanni 3, tel. +372 55 67 20 10. Open Tue 11:30-22:00; Wed, Thu 11:30-21:00; Fri, Sat 11:30-22:00; Sun 11:30-21:00; closed Mon.

PATAREI BURGER

Named after the famous ‘Patarei’ sea fortress and prison just a bit down the road, this burger joint is just the place to grab an appy, fill your belly with one of their meat loaded brioche buns, or munch on some‘loaded’fries.While you’re here, you might as well try one of the local craft beers or signature cocktails to quench that traveller’s thirst. Vegetarian options can also be enjoyed here.QStaapli 3-111, tel. +372 56 63 69 00, www.patareiburger. ee. Open 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00.

VIRU FOOD HALL

The most tasty part of the Viru Centre, the food hall offers a rich, street food-influenced, high-quality food selection from 15 different eateries. The choices include Asian street food and poke bowls, wood-ovenpizza,burgers,tacos,seafoodandsushi and Hawaiian flavours from the more exotic end. There are also plentiful of pastries and desserts as well as a wide choice of well selected local and imported beverages. With so much choice, and just one stomachs the only problem will be deciding which delectable items to try. We wish all of our readers good luck and Bon Appetit!QViru väljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), www.virukeskus.com/en. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-24:00.

Patarei Burger

Viru Food Hall

Dereku Burger

Cafés

We suggest you start with classic, ‘Old World’ Maiasmokk on Pikk Street. It’s in fact Tallinn’s oldest café, and pretty much the only one left from that era. It reminds of a Viennese coffee parlour in all of its grandeur, and has been serving marzipan, cakes, pastries and other treats since it opened up way back in 1864.

Nearby is café Saiakang, located in the narrow passageway connecting Pikk Street and Town Hall Square, carrying the same name which translates to ‘bread passage’ as it used to house bread merchants in the ‘days of yore’. Here you can sit by the large windows and watch the ‘world’ pass you by while enjoying an aromatic, quality coffee, freshly-baked pastries and other delicious goodies. Another great option is the neighbouring Kehrwieder, one of the best cafés in town for ambience, offering excellent gourmet coffees and handmade chocolates, alongside delectable pastries, cakes and ice-cream.

And while we already mentioned handmade chocolates and great ambience - the quaint, frilly 19th-century, Parisian/bohemian style (think Moulin Rouge meets upscale brothel à laToulouse Lautrec) Pierre Chocolaterie on Vene Street, certainly offers competition in both categories and is considered the most adorable café in town by many visitors.

Outside of Old Town, Kohvik Komeet in the Solaris centre has great views over the city and Old Town, fresh and extremely tasty cuisine - and above all killer desserts, naturally all low calorie of that we can assure you (nod, nod - wink, wink).

For a great view of the sea, and all of the hustle and bustle a port should be, head on over to the Noblessner Port area, a recently renovated and revitalised zone that plays host to numerous attractions and eateries. Art, culture, coffee and tea always go hand-in-hand and the Staapli 3 Art Gallery & Art Café have plenty to offer in those regards. Grab your laptop, a warming beverage as well as a piece of delicious cake and let the colourful artworks give you inspiration for a few hours here. Another great stop while in the area is the Proto Café, where you can also snack on some warm food and lite bites.

Just a short hop away, you’ll find the ultra-hip TelliskiviCreativeCityinKalamaja, with loads of eateries among other attractions and nightlife spots.

Frenchy is a great spot to while away some time here, it’s très French and although perhaps more of a restaurant, it certainly has a café vibe. The ground floor café located at Fotografiska is also a great spot to enjoy a great ‘Cup of Joe’, the industrial yet stylish interior, alongside the gallery shop. Truly a hip way to pass the time.

Ranging from full on eateries, to quaint little coffee nooks that serve up a few pastries and cakes - Tallinn has plenty to offer if you’re looking for a café.

Photo: StockSnap

For an experience perhaps a little more ‘refined’, it’s all just a‘walk in the park’while seeking out a good café experience in Kadriorg. Here you’ll be surrounded by trees, gardens, lovely old wooden houses, and a palace or two.

NOP is a longtime favourite of locals and visitors alike.You’ll find a lot of choices for vegans, as well as gluten and lactose free items on their menu consisting of fresh and light dishes. Gourmet Coffee, which is nestled just at the edge of the park, even roast their own coffee beans, just another ‘perk’ of checking them out. Another lovely spot, perched on the banks of the Swan Pond is Katharinenthal, a completely decadent experience with a well rounded menu and sinful desserts. Especially devine in the summer months.

BOBA KODA

This cosy bubble tea shop offers high quality milk teas, matcha and a variety of other signature drinks including the widely popular pink caramel and delicious handmade lemonades. Everything on offer is made in-house, and each drink is highly customisable via different flavour choices and other tasty additions. You won’t find any artificial syrups or low-grade powders in use here either. The beverages can also be made with or without the tapioca bubbles, although we believe that’s where the magic happens. Great vegan options as wellforthosethatswingthatway.QMüürivahe21, tel. +372 59 11 88 78. Open 13:00-19:00.

NOP SHOP & CAFÉ

Aneco-friendlyorganicshopandcafé,thisaddition to the Kadriorg landscape is certainly fresh and trendy. The food was nicely prepared, presented and we certainly enjoyed the mellow atmosphere while lingering over a coffee. You’ll also be able to find some fresh and interesting food items to take home with you from the shop. In summer they have a big nice bohemian garden under old shady trees.QKöleri 1, tel. +372 603 22 70, www.nop.ee Open 08:00-21:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-20:00.

STAAPLI 3 ART GALLERY AND ART CAFE

A bit of a new‘thing’for Tallinn, and the brainchild of an expat from the UK (who also has a similar concept gallery in Scotland), the Staapli 3 Art GalleryandArtCafé-isjustthat,yetsomuchmore. Forget the snobby, ‘high-brow’ mentality of most ‘fineart’institutionswherethestaffneedtoexplain the artist’s motives, using metaphors that belong in a psychology text book. This is a commercial gallery, they offer works of art which appeal to every taste and budget, and the art speaks for itself.They also do custom framing, offer advice on where best to hang a piece, pour a decent cup of coffee or tea, offer a lovely selection of cakes and pastries - which can be enjoyed, while surrounded by inspiring works of art.  QStaapli 3-114, tel. +372 660 22 11, www.staapliart.ee. Open 10:00-20:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00-20:00.

NOP Shop & Café

Boba Koda

Staapli 3 Art Gallery and Art Café

Tallinn’s nightlife scene is pretty happening. Given its location,

with Finland

to

the

north,

Latvia to the west, Russia

to the

East and a fairly quick jump from many other Northern European countries - the DJ’s, bands and live music acts, the newest trends, as well as other entertainment professionals give the city’s bars and clubs easy access to some great talent and ideas from abroad - alongside the great local artists and creativity.

roasted pork knuckles, and naturally the German national food ‘pizza’ as well. With the karaoke machine blasting, the lederhosen and dirndl-clad staff flying about, it’s like Oktoberfest everyday.

There are also a few Irish pubs that dot Tallinn, and probably the number one pick would have to be Mad Murphy’s. It’s located right on Town Hall Square, features loads of Irish and international brews and serves up all the pub-grub classics one would expect. Live music on weekends and naturally the best St Paddy’s Day in the city can be found here.

If you’re looking for a moreYankee experience you can head over to Route 33, they even serve up a greatThanksgiving turkey dinner to celebrate that holiday and hold probably the best Superbowl party in Estonia.

In recent years the city has become progressively, cosmopolitan given the amount of expats now living here, and that has upped the ante for enjoying the life - that the night has to offer. Not only that, but there are so many unique old, new and recently gentrified locations/districts which provide for a great amount of atmosphere in which to enjoy a great time out. That being said, we’ve divided up the nightlife into districts instead of categories - followed by the top nightclub spots.

OLD TOWN/CENTRAL TALLINN

Almost everything in Tallinn begins and ends with Old Town - nightlife is no exception as there are loads of bars, pubs, lounges, and a decent amount of clubs here also. It’s not to say that it’s the be-all-and-end-all of the city’s nightlife scene, but certainly a good place to start. If you aren’t incredibly picky, and are just looking for a good time out, there are many spots that fit the bill. Beer House has kind of become an institution, they brew their own signature beers onsite, have a lively ‘beer hall’ vibe and a load of primarily Bavarian-inspired menu items such as sauerkraut,

Alternatively you could check out Texas Cantina for one of the better Tex-Mex experiences in this small Nordic country - popular with locals and expats alike, it’s a pretty chill and laid back night outandaneasyplacetohookupwithnewfriends.

For something a little more refined, head over to Frank Underground, which provides a truly Soho, NY experience. The cocktail list is stunning and the atmosphere is quite something.‘Old Blue Eyes’would approve.

After that, head over to Sessel, for something quite special. This nightspot mixes it up a bit and is a trendy/artsy underground lounge, with a plethora of quirky retro fittings, a smattering of gaudy, lush furniture, and just enough bling - yet not at all pretentious. It has the vibe of a second living room and a great view out onto the bustling Viru Street. Truly tasty, vintage and signature drinks are served up here with ease and there are loads of special events to boot.

Another great little cocktail locale is Botaanik, where they mix up signature drinks based on botanicals and herbal essences. They truly take their cocktails seriously here, but the vibe is all about good times.

Photo: Pexels, Michal Lizuch

If wine is more your thing, one of Tallinn’s best kept - not so secret, is the delightful Pan Y Vino trattoria. Started by a longtime Peruvian expat who speaks more languages than we can count, they have a delightful wine list, some excellent cocktail recipes, a truly chill vibe and a great selection of Spanish appetisers as well. Thought by many to be the Baltics’most dazzling wine bar, VixenVinoteek indeed dazzles with its unmatched selection of wines and its casual chic atmosphere.

Just at the edge of Old Town, Butterfly Lounge is worth checking out. The pink-shirted serving staff, overall butterfly motif, and more frou-frou, cock...tails than you can shake a stick at, make this a place for beautiful people. Top-notch service, great DJ-spun‘chunes’and truly tasty‘appies’- are all good reasons to‘fly’over to Butterfly.

Wanna rock? Barbar is a rock haven that has received nothing but rave reviews from its growing, loyal fanbase. Live shows gigs and events are commonplace, and they even have a great terrace - perfect for any season.

ROTERMANNI QUARTER AND PORT AREA

The modern Rotermann Quarter and the fast developing port area have a lot going on also in nightlife scene.

In Rotermann you can enjoy a pint at the BrewDog pub. The world-renowned, Scottish brewery of the same name produces some serious brews for serious beer lovers. It’s not a huge locale, but the atmosphere is super - sadly they don’t have a kitchen, but, in case you get the munchies - they have an arrangement with the neighbouring Flamm and you can order their delicious flatbreads from the menu.

Chicago is another great bar in the area. They’ve got a huge drinks selection, a very good menu and a truly exhaustive programme of live acts

perform here as well. The atmosphere is also quite right and harkens back to the speakeasy/ prohibition era of - you guessed it, Chicago, when Al Capone was in charge of things. Literally a few ‘hopscotch’ skips away is the also quite stylish Urban Bar located at the base of the Metropol Hotel. It’s truly a classy spot, and they host a great deal of live acts to keep quests entertained until they cut the power. If you happen to be a smoker, cigar enthusiast or vaper, they’ve got a great smoking lounge, where you can enjoy your bad habit in comfort.

in port area, near Terminal D awaits Happy Cigars Shop & Lounge offering a wide range of cigars that you can familiarise yourself with in a spacious walk-in humidor or enjoy with a nice glass of rum in the smoking lounge.

BARBAR ROCK CLUB & BAR

This rock club/bar has received nothing but rave reviews from its growing, loyal fanbase. Live rock and metal shows happen every Friday and Saturday (exceptforJulyandAugust),withothergigsandevents happening throughout the week during those months.Ticketsareveryreasonable(upto€10),with many no-charge nights as well. In addition to great gigsandmusic,Barbaralsooffersasmallfoodmenu, as well as pool and darts at no extra cost. And to top it all off, there’s a year-round, covered terrace - yeah!! Be sure to check their website for full programme and other important details.   Q Rävala pst. 8, tel. +372 58 37 77 88. Open Tue - Thu 16:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00-03:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

HAPPY CIGARS SHOP & LOUNGE

This cigar shop and lounge located by Tallinn passengerportTerminalDoffersawiderangeofcigars. The spacious walk-in humidor lets you easily familiarise yourself with what’s on offer and you can enjoy a nice glass of rum with your selected cigar in the smoking lounge. Happy Cigars also carries a variety of humidors, ash trays, pipes and rolling papers. Q Lootsi 14, tel. +372 54 00 54 81, www. cigars.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-19:00.

Live music show at Barbar

Happy Cigars Shop & Lounge

KALAMAJA

One of Tallinn’s most happening areas in the last few years is the former blue collar and industrial zones of the Kalamaja district. Once home to sailors, fishermen, dock workers and the more heavy lifting members of society, as well as their employers - it’s now been gentrified, and is once again thriving, albeit with an entirely different kind of nightlife to days gone-by.

The epicentre of the whole Kalamaja frenzy, including the nightlife scene, is headquartered in and around the old Telliskivi factory and warehouse complex - Telliskivi Loomelinnak (Telliskivi Creative City). The space has a wonderful community feel to it, with plenty of events and festivals happening throughout the year.This is probably your best place to start when visiting the district and it’s easily reachable, just 10-minute walk from the train station at the edge of the Old Town.

Experience great drinks, friendly folks and nonstop tunes at the Terminal Records & Bar. The first of its kind in Estonia, they have the largest collection of vinyl in the city, as well as serving up great cocktails, wine and all the other night time favs.

If it’s a view and cocktails you’re after, the Fotografiska’s Rooftop Bar in the Telliskivi Creative City serves up great cocktails, excellent appetizers and a stunning 360 view of the city. Fono is a great retro themed place that kind of reminds one of a totally decked out Soviet-era apartment, the only difference is that nothing is in‘deficit’here - with it’s speakeasy vibes, fantastic

artisanal cocktails and ‘strong musical DNA’, it’s a great setting for good times. Another hot pick here is Sveta Baar, and it just might be one of the chillest bars we’ve ever been to in Tallinn. New, fresh music, swag parties and a ‘Pandora’s Box’of culture await you - top that off with super cool, friendly staff and you’ve got yourself a great bar for an even better night out!

Tops, which is actually one the first night spots to open in the area - it’s just a short hop, skip and a jump from Tellisikivi and located in what we believe used to be a convenient store. They’ve got some really great parties happening here, excellent DJs, special events, and the drinks prices are also rather reasonable.

If it’s less the type of crowd and more the type of drink you’re after, there are many different locales that specialise in wine, gin, beer, rum and various other alcohol-based beverages.

The self-service wine bar, Time to Wine has 22 different wines to choose from, which you can drink as much or as little of, as you like. Likewise, the nearby Tiks bar with friendly and knowledgeable staff, along with reasonable prices makes a good stop for a glass of wine - or two - and certainly helps to build an exceptional evening out.

A truly effervescent spot for interesting, locally produced wines and bubbly is the Nudist Winery & Bar, which combines a winery during working hours, a shop throughout the day, and a bar at night and on weekends.

Terminal Records & Bar

Perhaps gin might be more of your thing, and you can always let your‘gin-ny’out of the bottle at the Metsis Drinkery, run by the award-winning, Estonian gin producer Distillierium. Gin has seen a big resurgence in popularity recently and another great spot for getting your fix would be to head to the Juniperium Distillery Gin Bar, which features great gin-based cocktails and that eclectic Telliskivi vibe.

For some, rum is the spirit of choice, and Mojitobaar’s colorful, full-flavored mojito varieties, mixed with top quality sugarcane distilled Plantation rum are certainly inviting.

However, if you find cocktails a little blasse, and beer or hopped up beverages are more to your liking, a great spot is the Põhjala Tap Room just a short hop away in the Noblessner Port area. It’s situated in a former warehouse/factory, with the award-winning brewery onsite as well as a great kitchen serving up their take on gastro-pub fare. Another alternative for brewed beverage lovers, is the Purtse Telliskivi Tap Room, offering Estonian craft beer from the small yet tasty Purtse brewery.

For a little bit of everything, craft beers, cocktails, quiz nights, bingo and live performances - all with a great second living room vibe, Tartu’s newly opened second location of Möku just might become your favorite new hangout. It may even be too cosy and you might not want to leave - unless of course you end up making some new friends to bring over to your own living room.

NUDIST WINERY

Nudist Winery & Bar combines a winery during working hours, a shop throughout the day, and a bar at night and on weekends. They also offer winery tours and tastings and it’s a great place for picking up some interesting locally produced wines, bubbly and beer, including their most popular product, the Rabarbara rhubarb sparkling wine. Naturally you can consume them all in their bar before drawing up your shopping list and the occasional live music events will add a nice beat to the mission.QTelliskivi 60M, tel. +372 522 96 68, www.nudistdrink.com. Bar is open Wed, Thu 14:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00. Shop is open Mon, Tue 10:00 - 17:00, Wed - Fri 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 14:00 - 22:00.

TERMINAL RECORDS & BAR

Terminal is the perfect place to have afternoon coffee and dig through the international music, movie magazines and books or to spend the evening hours sipping musically inspired cocktails. It’s a record store, bar and venue all in one - and the first of its kind in Estonia. Being the largest record store of Estonia,Terminal mostly carries new vinyl, but also has a good variety of second hand records that you can also listen on-site, as well as a wide selection of CDs, Dvds, Blu-Rays and other merch, including T-shirts, mugs, posters, badges etc.They also sell turntables and vinyl accessories. The bar area has a superb selection of gin, wines, cocktails and local craft beers in addition to great coffee. Perhaps one of the coolest things is that you can even order your coffee with a choice of images (even an image from your mobile) magically printed into the foam - how about a selfie with your cappuccino? Truly the next level of cool.  Look out for the occasional events like album presentations, live music, DJ sets, movie nights, quizzes and more.QTelliskivi 60/2, tel. +372 53 80 55 34, www.terminal.ee. Tue - Wed 12.00 - 20:00, Thu 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12.0001:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

Terminal Records & Bar

Nudist Winery & Bar

CLUBBING

Tallinn has a pretty decent clubbing scene, although in recent years it’s become a little more spread out and less concentrated, which has seen the smaller clubs taking a bit more of the action. That being said, there’s nothing quite like a large space, wicked sound system and a throng of sweaty, beautiful bods writhing to some sick beats - and if you didn’t quite understand that last statement, you’ll probably want to stick with the lounges and more chill nightlife spots.

Club Hollywood is always happening. Located in a historical theatre in Old Town, this meltingpot for tourists, andTallinn's young and young-atheart party crowd, usually ends up being a fullhouse.Theyregularlyfeatureloadsoffunkyevents as well as some great local and international DJs on the decks, it really gets hoppin’. Their VIP experience is excellent and Wednesday night is ladies night, i.e. free entrance for the fairer sex, which pretty - hint, hint gents.

Another one of the long-time Tallinn clubbing fixtures is Venus Club.With its über-kitsch decor, this place is really all about having a great time and the vibe here isn't as serious as some of the 'elite' clubs in town (and not to say it isn’t a hot spot) - which is in our opinion a good thing. It's also one of the few spots in town where you can often find people dancing before midnight.

If you are more into a latin groove, a more intimate space, and ‘the dirty dancing’ Baila, in the heart of Old Town, is always a great time. It’s got a calienté tropical vibe, tropical menu and island-inspired menu as well. A huge selection of ‘vacation-vibe’ cocktails, super latin jams and rather friendly clientele make for a wild time.

At the heart of the underground nightclub scene in Tallinn is 9/11. The name of the club probably wouldn’t go over too well in NY City, howeverthe phat beats and rhythm of deep progressive house & techno shake the walls and writhing bodies here. You’ll experience ‘chunes’ from the best local and international DJs, and its location in an old factory building in the Kristiine district sets the perfect backdrop for an amazing night out, which often turns into the break of dawn.

And the last gem is club Hall. Just a little outside of the centre, this underground club is a ‘Mecca’ for those into hardcore techno. Located in the old Noblessner factory building, Hall features electronic music and visual arts, introducing Eastern European underdogs to the world. The crowd here really depends on the programme.

Party on!

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Photo: Pexels, Mauricio Mascaro

Shopping Shopping

There are plenty of opportunities to spend money while shopping in Tallinn. From souvenir stores and local design boutiques in the Old Town, to the funky little shops in Telliskivi, and the numerous shopping malls both in and outside of the center.

HANDICRAFTS & SOUVENIRS

Nothing says “I’ve been to Estonia!’’ like a juniper wood kitchen spatula, or a pair of hand-knit woolen mittens. Your best bet for landing these popular items is naturally the epicentre ofTallinn’s tourism - Old Town. The highest concentration of souvenir shops lies along Viru and Vene streets, and paying a visit to the affectionately named ‘knitting wall’ found along the old, city fortifications at Müürivahe street is a mandatory stop for any‘virgin’tour of Tallinn.

Kaarmanni Handicraft shop is the largest handicraft centre in Estonia where you can buy beautiful and high-quality crafted items. Estonian Handicraft House offers a wide selection of textiles from natural materials, as well as wooden, metal, and ceramic items.

Another must visit for authentic souvenirs is Katariina Gild. It’s located in the most picturesque and historic alleyway in Old Town, the St.Catherine’s Passage, and hosts various artisan shops/workshops, including glass, ceramics, textile, leatherwork, jewellery studios, a hat workshop.

Literally around the corner in an equally historic space is the Master’s Courtyard, here you’ll also find various artisans at work creating beautiful and stunning creations which make both excellent gifts, souvenirs or simply artistic items to proudly display in your home. There’s also a fantastic, cosy and Bohemian Parisian-style café and chocolaterie here withalovelyoutdoorpatiointhewarmermonths.

For slightly more unique souvenirs we recommend that you check out the Oma Asi stores featuring creative and modern local design. There’s one right by the Viru gates and the second is next to Town Hall Square in the quaint little pink house on Saiakang.

The popular medieval restaurant institution that is Olde Hansa, also runs a medieval wares shop, the Olde Hansa Shoppe which features truly authentic items such as hand-blown glass, blacksmithery, hand-crafted pottery, leather goods, medieval clothing, and spirits crafted from original recipes. Here you’ll also find a longtime favourite among locals and visitors alike, roasted almonds, ranging from sweet/spicy to savoury/ herbal and perfectly packaged as to make for an inexpensive souvenir - if you can hold off on not consuming them before you even arrive back home that is.

Estonian Handicraft House and Kaarmanni Handicraft shops sell the widest collection of authentic Estonian handicrafts.

ART SHOPS AND GALLERIES

For some really great Estonian art and design, it’s also worth checking out Fe Gallery and Kunstiaken where you can find a variety of quirky and classical pieces by local artists including metal, ceramics, glass, textiles, and jewellery.

For primarily high-end paintings, prints and framed pieces Haus Gallery is another great bet.

A-Galerii in OldTown is one of the best places for buying Estonian-designed jewellery and fashion accessories.

Steppingjustoutsideofthecitycenter,the Staapli 3 Art Gallery and Art Café in Noblessner, represents both local, as well as international artists featuring a wide variety of styles, subject matters, price points which can either be enjoyed over a cup of coffee as well as purchased here.

LOCAL DESIGN

Many souvenir shops sell small local design products like jewellery and household items, but if you really want to explore the best in Estonian design, we advise you to head to these specialised venues.

As one-stop destinations, you’ll want to visit the Solaris Centre and the Telliskivi Shopping Complex are both great spots where you can find lots of small shops and boutiques selling local designs - from hand-made jewellery and clothing to skincare products, accessories etc.

In Rotermann Quarter Tallinn Design House showcases the premium choice of Estonian designer brands from fashion apparel, jewellery, organic cosmetics, ceramics to furniture and interior design accessories.

In Kalamaja, TALI is a popular destination for finding the most unique selection of items by young Estonian designers as well as established brands.

Teele DISAIN on the 2nd floor of Balti jaam market features a wide range of items from up to 60 different Estonian designers and crafters. You can also browse for the local handicafts at the neighbouringTeele ETNO.

ESTONIAN HANDICRAFT HOUSE

Established in 1927 to revive Estonian handicrafts, this shop sells locally-made handicrafts, each with their own story. The shop has a wide selection of textiles from natural materials, as well as wooden, metal, and ceramic items. The Handicraft House also includes a Folk Art Gallery, which organises exhibitions, master classes, and workshops.QPikk 22, tel. +372 631 40 76, www.crafts. ee. Open 10:00-18:00; Sun 10:00-17:00.

KAARMANNI HANDICRAFT

This shop is the largest handicraft centre in Estonia where you can buy beautiful and high-quality crafted items. Shop is also offering presentations of regional handicraft shops and workshops. QVanaturu kael 8, tel. +372 644 88 73, www. crafts.ee. Open 11:00-19:00; Sun 11:00-18:00.

KATARIINA GUILD

St.Catherine’s Guild unites various artists who have their workshops and studios along Tallinn Old Town’s most picturesque alleyways - the St.Catherine’s Passage. You can watch the craftsmen at work which is a real treat and alos pick up freshly made unique handicrafts on-site. You also witness the creation of the products on-site and see the artists at work. Definately a must experience while visiting Old Town. QVene 12/Katariina käik, www.katariinagild.eu. Opening hours for each studio can be found from website.

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Katariina Guild

Local design at Teele DISAIN

LOCAL FOOD & BOOZE

They say that if you want to truly experience the local culture, head to the market. Tallinn’s markets have all been modernised and no longer really give the hustle and bustle, the smells and sounds or the range of unique items they once offeredbut in exchange, they have become more clean and civilised (read, less former Soviet-era) and more inline with their Nordic location.

The biggest and most central market is the Baltic Station Market next to the train station. There’s a good selection of fresh seasonal and local produce (or items from other nearby European climes depending on the season), meats, seafood, and dairy products as well as small specialty food stores and a variety of ethnic food stalls ranging from Italian to Asian and African as well. Some of the local selections include Muhu Leib that sells the popular Estonian black bread, (now produced fresh in most major cities) and the Kalev store where you can fill up on local sweets and chocolates as well as the ever so popular marzipan.

Another smaller food market is the Sadamaturg in the harbour, which offers up a great variety of mostly local and regional delights. Check out our feature on Flavours of Estonia to find the best things to sample and for items to bring back home.

You can find a very good selection of local and international brands for both soft and hard alcohol from most supermarkets, but if you’d like

to get some good advice and the chance to buy something more unique, the smaller specialized stores are your best choice. Please note that alcohol sales in Estonia are prohibited from 22:00 until 10:00am.

The country’s flagship alcohol brand is the rumbased, herbal infusion liquor, Vana Tallinn (‘Old Tallinn’), produced by Liviko, and it’s a popular pick as a local souvenir to bring back from your trip here. There are 3 strengths: 40,45,50% and several different cream variations also. You can buy Vana Tallinn in most supermarkets, but the best deals and widest selection of Liviko products, including several vodka varieties can be found in their Liviko branded stores.

For both great and strange brews, TapTap carries over 230 different handicraft beers, from local and international breweries as well. Another option is to head to UbajaHumal or SIP inTelliskivi which carries a wide selection of beer, wine and stronger spirits and liqueurs.

Flavours of Estonia

Balti jaam market

Terminal Records & Bar

SPECIALTY STORES

For all the bookworms, or those just looking for a bit of light reading while on holiday, the largest bookshops in the centre are Rahva Raamat and the Apollo chain stores. Raamatukoi in the Old Town specializes in antique books. All carry a fair selection of literature in English and Russian.

If you’re a music fan then a visit to Estonia’s largest record shop Terminal Records & Bar in the Telliskivi area is a must. They feature the biggest collection of previously enjoyed and new vinyl in addition to a tonne of ‘fan merch’ as well as CDs, DVDs, high-end turntables and sound system accessories. They also have a great bar where you can listen to tunes and sip on a sweet cocktail or hard brew.

Vintage fanatics should head to A.G.A.N. - As Good As New - which is both a second-hand boutique and a showcase for young Estonian designers who specialise in creations made from reclaimed materials - or the now very popular, Kopli Couture which offers quality vintage and various eclectic items as well. Sveta Vintage, with a selection of exclusive and casual retro treasures, is also in the same neighborhood and worth a visit.

Shop until you drop

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SHOPPING CENTRES

The most central shopping centre is the Viru Centre with the Tallinna Kaubamaja department store right next door, although they aren’t huge malls, between the two - you can usually find most of what you might be looking for.

Nautica in the port area, isn’t too much of a hike and with close to 60 shops it’s a great choice if it happens to be along your trajectory.

Serious shoppers though will want to head to Ülemiste, Kristiine Centre or Rocca al Mare shopping centres, each of them featuring a huge selection of stores, various eateries and dedicated indoor (paid) playgrounds for kids.

ÜLEMISTE CENTRE

Ülemiste centre isTallinn’s most popular retail-entertainment centre, with its cosy atmosphere and manyopportunitiesforleisure.It’strulyaone-stop shopping centre with everything from a grocery store and electronics to shoes and clothing for the whole family.There are tons of great places to eat, to suit even the pickiest of eaters, and plenty of entertainment like the Apollo cinema, O’Learys Sports Restaurant, trampoline centre and an indoor play area for kids. For serious shoppers, it’s worth the short trip from the centre. To get there, take bus N°15 from the Viru bus terminal to the Ülemiste jaam stop or tram N°4 from Viru stop to the Ülemiste linnak stop.Q Suur-Sőjamäe 4, next to Tallinn Airport, tel. +372 603 49 99, www. ulemiste.ee. Open 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00.

Ülemiste Center