Tirana In Your Pocket 2022 by In Your Pocket

Restaurants

Cafés

Nightlife

Tirana 2022

Farm to table Agrotourism and Slow Food

All the tips you need Tirana’s best restaurants, cafés, bars and sights

inyourpocket.com N°11 - €3

Sightseeing

Hotels

Events

Map

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Feature: Farm to Table

Agrotourism and the Slow Food revolution

Basics

Arriving & Transport

8 14 16 18 20

Everything from fine dining to street food

Where to Stay

Directory

Tirana map & Street index

Find your way

Of pyramids, bunkers and art

Where to Eat

Shopping

All the useful addresses

See Skanderbeg’s imposing citadel

Sightseeing

A bed for all budgets

Opera, cinema and 2022 events

Day trip: Kruja

Nightlife

Fashion, markets and more

You couldn’t make this stuff up

Culture & Events

Drink the night away

Planes, trains and automobiles

History

Cafés Coffee shops and lounge cafés

The only A to Z of the city you’ll ever need

Communications

Wifi, mail & phones

Spikes at the National Stadium tirana.inyourpocket.com

2022

Foreword It’s good to be back. Tirana has been through some rough times since our last edition, but much has changed and we’re looking forward to a brilliant summer in Albania. What’s changed? Prices have gone up a bit, American expats have arrived in force with the year-long visa-free offer, skyscrapers are shooting up like concrete weeds, and suddenly everyone’s on instagram. In this brand new 11th edition of Tirana In Your Pocket, we take a look at agrotourism (p.37) and farm-to-table (p.28) trends, go on a day trip to Kruja (p.18) and see some nuclear bunkers (p.23). We hope you enjoy exploring Tirana as much as we do writing about it.

ABOUT THIS GUIDE The Tirana In Your Pocket city guide is part of an international series of acclaimed city guides. Our guides are written for foreign travellers and residents, to provide honest, critical information that makes visiting the city easier. As a private and commercial initiative, this guide has been written and researched by a team of local and foreign travel guide experts. We appreciate any tips for improving the next issue, sent to publishing@landways.eu. Udhëzuesi i qytetit Tirana In Your Pocket (‚Tirana në xhepin tuaj‘) është udhëzuesi i vetëm në gjuhën angleze që i dedikohet kryeqytetit të Shqipërisë, dhe është pjesë e një sërë udhëzuesve të njohur të qyteteve në mbarë Evropën. Udhëzuesit in your pocket janë dizajnuar për udhëtarët e huaj dhe banorët, por thjeshtë që të sigurojnë informata të sinqerta kritike që e bëjnë vizitën në qytet më të lehtë për të sapoardhurit. Si një iniciative private komerciale, Tirana In Your Pocket është shkruar dhe hulumtuar nga një ekip i ekspertëve vendor dhe të huaj të udhëzuesve të udhëtimit. E-mailet mund të dërgohen në publishing@landways.eu.

E S S E N TI A L

Publisher C I TY G U I D E S Landways International Rr. Themistokli Gërmenji shk.1, k.1, Tirana, Albania Tel. +355 4 225 56 55 publishing@landways.eu www.inyourpocket.com © Landways International, 2022 Printed by Expo Vision Albania 4

Tirana In Your Pocket

CELEBRATING LIFE Don’t you agree it’s time to celebrate life? After two pandemic years with personal losses and economic difficulties, Albanians are now looking forward to a successful year and renewed contact with the outside world. After decades of complete isolation and many more years of rebuilding the country, Albania attracts ever more visitors who come to enjoy our beautiful beaches, majestic mountain landscapes, lively cities and rich cultural heritage. At Tirana In Your Pocket, we have made it our mission to promote our fascinating, vibrant capital city, and to help foreigners make the most of their time here. A warm welcome to Albania and enjoy Tirana! Gazmend Haxhia, publisher

COVER - PAST AND FUTURE The bold warrior depicted on the cover is Skenderbeg, Albania’s national hero who united the nation and fought tirelessly against the Ottomans in medieval times - you’ll find this statue in the middle of Skanderbeg Square. He is juxtaposed by the new, 85-metre high 4 Ever Green Tower skyscraper, one of several strikingly designed new highrises representing the progress Tirana has made in recent years. Photo by Erich Mehrl.

Editorial Editor-in-Chief Jeroen van Marle Contributors Alexandra Lewis, Richard Schofield Research Albina Caci, Arjeta Dyli, Salvador Senia Advertising & Distribution Manager Semi Gjoni Layout Küllike Johannson-Singer Photos Jeroen van Marle Map © Bashkia Tirana Cover photo © Erich Mehrl, www.archivmehrl.de Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Landways International 2022. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner.

Basics

Tirana’s main drag, Bulevardi Dëshmorët e Kombit

THE ALBANIANS A matter of considerable academic dispute, the origin of today’s Albanian people almost certainly lies somewhere in the time before Christ when the Illyrians settled the region. The first written references to a specific Albanian race date back to historical records from the 11th century. Contemporary Albanians run on the mixed blood of several races who’ve all in one way or another had considerable influence on the nation, the only thing truly uniting them being besa, the unique Albanian honour code that insists on the well-being of honoured guests no matter who they are. Besa, which famously left Nazi-occupied Albania with a larger Jewish population at the end of WWII than at the beginning, is reason enough to visit the country. Warm, friendly, funny and inquisitive, mixing with the Albanians is guaranteed to have a lasting and positive effect on everyone who visits the country. ALCOHOL As is pretty much the same throughout the Balkans, the local firewater of choice in Albania comes in the form of a fruit-based brandy known as raki (or rakia). Distilled using anything from grapes to plums and even mulberries, commercially produced raki contains around 40% alcohol, although you may well encounter illicit moonshine containing at least twice as much as this. Be careful! At the other end of the scale, Albania’s birra production is dominated by the two national brands Birra Tirana and Birra Korça, both are lager-type concoctions that are absolutely fine to drink. Alcoholism and drunkenness in the streets are minor problems compared to many other countries in Eastern Europe. EMERGENCY NUMBERS Ambulance Tel. 127 / Fire Tel. 128 / Police Tel. 129 tirana.inyourpocket.com

COMMUNISM There are still plenty of communist-era relics to see in Tirana, by far the largest and most impressive being the gargantuan Socialist Realist mosaic adorning the façade of the National History Museum. Between 1944 and 1991 Albania was one of the most isolated countries in the world, a violent and paranoid police state that used coercion, torture, false psychological imprisonment and religious persecution as ways of maintaining law and order. Although it’s now three decades since Albania threw off its Marxist-Leninist shackles, many of its citizens still carry around the various internal scars associated with a violent and dysfunctional recent past. It would be something of an exaggeration to claim that Albania is suffering from the effects of some kind of collective, post-traumatic stress syndrome, although there is at least an element of truth in this supposition. In the meantime, the younger generation of locals is now exploiting Albania’s former communist past with various museums, tours and themed bars.

EXPAT ACTIVITIES Tirana’s local expat community is both long-standing and ever-growing, with many regular meet-ups. The most famous group Expats in Albania (www.expatsinalbania. com) hosts get-togethers at changing venues; Dine-Out on Tuesday nights, Coffee Catch-Ups on Wednesday mornings and Friday Night Drinks; their Facebook page has regular updates. Local food blog HaPiTirana (www. hapitirana.com) also regularly hosts expat events such as karaoke or cultural nights, which often include free food and drinks. For those interested in the outstanding work being done by the expat community, head to the Rogner Hotel at 10:30 on Friday morning to mingle and attend a presentation of the International Friends in Tirana (see their Facebook page for details). 2022

Basics ‘BESA’ IN THE MODERN DAY Many well-seasoned travellers have learnt the hard way to be extremely wary of anyone who approaches you. You might instinctively try to wave away any locals, but be aware that Albania is a country unlike any other. The concept of besa is one that is deeply entrenched in local culture, meaning that any guest is to be considered like one’s own family. As a foreigner, you are to be given the utmost respect whilst in the country, and many people will wish to go out of their way to help you in any way they can. CRIME & SAFETY Believed by many to be a lawless country populated by bandits and villains whose main goal in life is to separate tourists from their possessions by any means possible, Albania is in actual fact one of the safest and most relaxed countries in Europe. This isn’t to say that crime doesn’t exist of course, there’s plenty of it around, although most is to be found taking place behind closed doors in the shady underworld of business and politics. As with anywhere else in the world, there are a few people out there willing to spoil people’s holidays by stealing their luggage and helping themselves to wallets and mobile phones left in unattended jackets and bags. Be vigilant, don’t stroll around dark neighbourhoods drunk, and you’ll be fine. Gun ownership in Albania is common, although shootings are almost exclusively the result of internal squabbles and disputes. ENTRY REQUIREMENTS EU citizens as well as those from most other European countries plus the US, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and Japan can enter Albania without a visa. Other travellers need to get a visa from an Albanian embassy or consulate abroad before travelling. More information can be found on the Albanian Ministry of Foreign Affairs website at www. mfa.gov.al. Passports should be valid for a further three months after departing Albania. Citizens of the EU, Iceland, Norway, USA, Canada, Australia and New Zealand have the option of entering Albania using an ID card, although we recommend still taking your passport anyway as airlines and officials are all too quickly confused. HEALTH Although we’ve never had any problems with it, many people advise against drinking the tap water in Albania, especially in rural areas away from towns and cities. A stomach infection is the last thing anyone needs, so it’s worth considering sticking to bottled water, which is available in shops everywhere and extremely cheap. Medical and dental care in the country are of poor quality, and travelling with medical insurance is highly recommended. No vaccinations are needed when visiting Albania. Raw sewage is allegedly pumped into the sea at times, so be careful along the coast near cities and harbours. 6

Tirana In Your Pocket

LOCAL TIME Albania is in the Central European Time (CET) zone at GMT+1hr. When it’s 12:00 in Tirana it’s 06:00 in New York, 11:00 in London and 19:00 in Tokyo. Central European Summer Time (CEST, GMT+2hrs) falls between the last Sundays of March and October respectively.

INFRASTRUCTURE Not surprisingly for a former communist country still in transition to a fully functioning and transparent democracy, Albania’s infrastructure remains something of a mess. Expect to encounter (and get used to) anomalies including broken shower doors and bare wires even in some of the more expensive hotels. Beware of pavements with missing manhole covers, small lumps of metal sticking out of the ground and rubbish lying around in the suburbs. Although service in bars and restaurants is improving, it’s still got a long way to go, although Albanian waiters (waitresses still being something of a rarity) are almost universally gregarious. Disabled travellers thinking about visiting Albania, especially those who generally travel on a budget, should know right away they’re going to find it a difficult experience. LANGUAGE Sounding at times not unlike Turkish with the batteries running out, Albanian is an Indo-European language with its own isolated linguistic branch. Thought to have originated from the now long-extinct Illyrian (or possibly Thracian) language, Albanian consists of two distinct dialects, namely Gheg, spoken in the north as well as neighbouring Kosovo and the Albanian-speaking regions of Montenegro and Macedonia, and Tosk, which is generally confined to the south of the country. Featuring a Latin alphabet made up of 36 letters, peculiarities include a propensity to switch the definite and indefinite endings (thus both Tirana and Tiranë) depending on their function within a sentence, a habit we try to bypass by sticking to the definite ending to avoid confusion wherever possible. English is widely spoken in Tirana, especially among the younger generation. A lot of Albanians also speak Italian, French and, in the south of the country especially, Greek. LGBT ALBANIA Same-gender sex has been legal in Albania since 1995, although general attitudes are exceedingly conservative with many Albanians still stuck in the 16th century. Although Tirana is yet to feature rainbow flags and openly gay bars, the city does at least have one or two gay-friendly places to eat and drink. Travelling to exotic locations such as Albania for the LGBT community has been revolutionised over the past few years with the help of the internet, and we strongly recommend locating and connecting with local LGBT groups and organisations. A law exists in Albania banning discrimination on the grounds of sexual orientation and gender identity.

Basics

Tirana street art

MONEY & COSTS The Albanian currency is the lek. Banknotes come in denominations of 5,000 lek, 2,000 lek, 1,000 lek, 500 lek and 200 lek, with coins available in denominations of 100 lek, 50 lek, 20 lek, 10 lek and 5 lek. The lek is a non-convertible currency and is useless abroad; change it back into your own currency before leaving Albania. ATMs are found all over Tirana and charge up to 700 lek per transaction; only Credins Bank ATMs charge no fee. Cash can be changed at exchange offices found all over the city and offer good rates. It’s also possible to change money in banks and many of the better hotels, although doing so in the latter should only be considered in an emergency as they always charge a whopping great commission. Card payments are becoming increasingly common, but if you’re doing anything outside the immediate city centre or are planning to travel to any remote locations, be sure to carry plenty of cash. With the exceptions of the city’s five-star hotels and luxury restaurants, the cost of living for people visiting from the West remains remarkably affordable. RELIGION Contrary to what many people think, Albania is far from being an exclusively Muslim country, with less than 60 percent of the population claiming to adhere to Islam, a faith imported during the Ottoman occupation that many people originally converted to for economic reasons. Constitutionally a secular country and for two decades during the Hoxha regime the only atheist country in the world, Albania’s other main faiths include Orthodox Christianity and Catholicism. Almost none of the tiny remaining Jewish population of the country follow Judaism. All of the houses of worship in Tirana welcome visitors as both tourists and believers. tirana.inyourpocket.com

MARKET VALUES Slice of byrek 40-100 lek (€0.33-0.80) Espresso 80-100 lek (€0.70-0.80) Decent bottle of local wine 350-700 lek (€3-6) Large Birra Tirana in a bar 250-400 lek (€2-3) Pack of cigarettes 250-500 lek (€2-4) Taxi ride across town 400-700 lek (€3.30-6) Local transport ticket 40 lek (€0.33) Exchange rate €1=121 lek (May 2022) WHEN TO GO Boasting a Mediterranean climate featuring often stiflingly hot, dry summers and moderately cool winters during which temperatures tend to drop severely at higher altitudes, there’s never an especially bad time to visit Albania. Tirana itself is buzzing all year round, with bar and restaurant terraces pretty much never closing. Choosing exactly when to visit is a matter of personal preference, although we recommend the late spring, especially during the month of May when the spring flowers bloom and it’s possible to walk around in shirtsleeves without burning to death. If you choose to visit during the hot summer months and are travelling on a limited budget, make sure your hotel has airconditioning.

Exchange rates: €1=121 lek, $1=115 lek 2022

Arriving & Transport Getting to Albania has never been this easy, with affordable links via land, sea and air. Once you’ve arrived, keep in mind that as long as you’re on the ground it’s going to be a bumpy ride, whether you take a taxi, bus, car or train.

ARRIVING IN TIRANA

AIRPORT

BY BUS Most international and domestic buses will drop you off at the current bus terminal, west of the centre. The adjacent Ring Center mall has food, ATMs and toilets. From late summer, buses from the east and south will soon drop off at the fabulous new Tirana East Bus Terminal by the TEG mall. Both locations have bus stops to get to the city centre.

TIRANA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Tirana’s easy-to-use Nënë Tereza international airport is located 17km northwest of the city centre near the village of Rinas, and offers an increasingly interesting range of destinations, many of them on budget airlines. There’s a bookshop, ATMs, mobile phone shops and cafés. The airport express bus runs from near Skenderbeg Square hourly between 07:00 and 19:00 for 250 lek. Alternatively a taxi costs between 2500-3000 lek, taking 40 minutes.QRinas, tel. +355 4 2381 800, www.tirana-airport.com.

LUGGAGE STORAGE

BY CAR Since the main roads to and within Albania have been upgraded, driving to Tirana is finally an option. In summer months you may face long queues at the border, and keep in mind not all border crossings are open around the clock.

LUGGAGE STORAGE TIRANA Professional luggage storage for the Airbnb generation, 200 metres from Skanderbeg Square. Prices from 150 lek per hour up to 650 lek per day for two bags of any size, 3700 lek per bag per week or 4700 lek per month. QRr. Barrikadave, NECI Services, Elevator A1, 1st floor, tel. +355 69 246 08 22, www. luggagestoragetirana.com. Open 08:00-21:00.

BY FERRY Car ferry services from several Italian cities to the ports of Durrës, Shengjin and Vlora operate all year round. Flying to Corfu and taking advantage of the twice-daily passenger ferry to Saranda in the south of the country is often the cheapest way to reach southern Albania, though it’s still a long (yet very scenic) drive to Tirana from there.

Safe short and long term LUGGAGE STORAGE in central Tirana

OPEN DAILY from 8am to 9pm

Rr. Barrikadave tel. +355 69 2460822 www.luggagestoragetirana.com 8

Arriving in Tirana in style.

Tirana In Your Pocket

BY PLANE Tirana’s modern Nënë Tereza (Mother Teresa, TIA) airport, 17km northwest of Tirana, is a 30-minute drive away from the city centre in good traffic. Beside the baggage carousel in arrivals there are ATMs, an exchange office with so-so rates, and a tourist information desk. Buy a local SIM card at the mobile phone shops. Ignore taxi drivers harassing new arrivals and take an official yellow airport taxi to the centre for 2500 lek during the daytime and 3000 lek between 21:00 and 07:00. Other companies like Green Taxi charge only half that fee, but you need to order by phone for a pick-up across the street at the Jurgen Hotel. Alternatively, hop on the Rinas Express airport bus to Sheshi Skënderbej; these depart daily on the hour between 08:00 and 23:00 (from the centre to the airport between 07:00 and 22:00), and tickets cost 400 lek. BY TRAIN Tirana’s train station was regrettably demolished recently, so bold travellers arriving by train from Shkodra and Durrës consequently now find themselves deposited at Kashar west of town where shuttle buses take you the final 15km of the journey to the northern end of Blv. Zogu I. Albania has no international passenger trains yet.

Enjoy Albania within your budget

Make a reservation TODAY!

Mob: +355 67 601 22 72 www.budget.al

Address 1: Tirana International Airport Tirana, Albania

Address 2: Rruga Themistokli Germenji Tirana, Albania

Arriving & Transport CAR RENTAL Prices for renting a car in Albania start at around €30 a day for the cheapest model. Agencies have desks at the airport, but these are often only staffed on demand, so inform them in advance before you arrive. Make sure you have the rental agency telephone number and a good map before setting off. Albania is now pretty well covered with GPS making mobile navigation easy. AVIS The Avis desk at the airport is open 24 hours per day.QH‑5, Rr. Themistokli Germenji, tel. +355 4 450 05 41/+355 67 60 38 900, www.avis.al. Open 08:30-23:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-21:00. BUDGET QH‑5, Rr. Themistokli Germenji, tel. +355 4 450 05 41/+355 67 60 38 900, www.budget.com. Open 08:3023:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-21:00. CAMPER ALBANIA Fully equipped camper vans, from €100 per day. For a small fee you also get a map marking recommended spots to park or get fresh drinking water.QManëz, tel. +355 69 526 49 83, www.camper-albania.eu. Always open. ENTERPRISE QF‑5, Rr. Durresit, Pall. 106, tel. +355 68 40 23 218, www.enterprise.com. Open 08:00-20:00.

10 Tirana In Your Pocket

EUROPECAR QRr. 29 Nentori, tel. +355 4 580 06 00, www.europcar. com. Open 08:00-16:30; Sat 8:00-13:00; closed Sun. Airport office open 08:00-23:59. HERTZ QTirana airport, tel. +355 69 404 74 95/+355 692058775, www.hertzalbania.com. Open 08:0020:00; Sun 09:00-17:00. SIXT Also at Rr. e Kavajes 50.QTirana airport, tel. +355 4 222 39 96/+355 68 20 68 500, www.sixt.com. Open 08:0023:30. TIRANA CAR RENTALS Aslo on Rr. Sali Butka.QTirana airport, tel. +355 69 333 35 50, www.albaniaonline.org. 24 hrs.

HELICOPTERS VIVA HELICOPTERS ‘Flightseeing’ trips all across Albania and neighbouring countries. The Viva fleet of three helicopters is run by a German aviation team and based in Baldushk, 15km south of town, with an office on the 3rd floor of the Galeria ETC mall.QBaldushk, tel. +355 42 27 19 38, www.vivahelicopters.com.

Arriving & Transport DRIVING Whist the country’s roads may be improving, the local drivers who use them continue to be among the worst imaginable, with road fatality figures some of the highest in Europe. Disrespectful of the law and seemingly unaware of the fact that pedestrians are soft and break easily, the quintessential Albanian motorist is easily distracted, oblivious to speed limits and would rather undergo torture than wear a seatbelt. Before 1991, only Party officials were allowed to own and drive cars, of which there were only about 600 in the entire country. Drivers are required by law to have a fire extinguisher, yellow vest and first aid kit in the car, and always drive with the lights on. In cities, be aware of everything, in the countryside, keep an eye out for potholes and donkeys. In mountain areas, having snow chains during the winter is a good idea. Speed limits Urban areas and villages: 40km/hr Dual carriageways: 90km/hr Highways: 110km/hr All other roads: 80km/hr

CYCLING Back in the good old days when there were 600 cars in Albania, everyone had a bicycle. Now, in Tirana at least, it’s pretty much the other way round. Thankfully, plenty of streets have been upgraded with bike lanes in recent years, and cycling around town is probably nearly as pleasurable as it must have been in 1991. BIKE POINT ALBANIA Excellent bike shop with rental of city bikes for 1500 lek/ day and mountain bikes from 2500 lek/day, as well as sales and repairs. Also organises off-road tours around Tirana. QRr. Myslym Shyri 44/3, tel. +355 68 860 00 60. Open 09:00-13:00, 14:00-18:00; Sat 09:00-13:00; closed Sun. CYCLE ALBANIA Mountain (e-)bikes, from 1800 lek per day. Also organises various multi-day tours through Albania.QRr. Bardhok Biba, tel. +355 69 247 57 28, www.cyclealbania.com. Open 08:00-17:00. EVERGREEN Mountain bike rental, from 2000 lek per day.QRr. Sami Frashëri, tel. +355 69 738 69 49. Open 09:00-21:00. LIKSAD E-BIKE Luxury e-bikes for rent, suitable for calm trips around town as well as wild adventures in the mountains. From €24 per day.QRr. Margarita Tutulani, tel. +355 68 349 01 95, www.liksad.com/sq. Open 07:00-21:00; closed Sun. tirana.inyourpocket.com

Castle of Tirana

LONG-DISTANCE BUSES With daily departures to all neighbouring countries using increasingly comfortable air-conditioned buses, travel in the Balkans is getting easier every year. Domestic destinations are often stll served by furgon minibuses, a transport choice often held together with little more than tape and famous for departing only when full. Tirana’s current bus station is a depressing parking lot west of the centre, but this summer the new East Bus Terminal should open by the TEG Mall. Tickets can usually be bought on board, at one of the ticketing offices along Rruga Mine Peze, or online (international services) via www.autobus.al. TIRANA INTERNATIONAL BUS TERMINAL (STACIONI QENDROR I LINJAVE NDERKOMBETARE) Tirana’s first attempt at a bus station can be found behind the Ring Center mall and the Asllan Rusi sports complex. Apart from bus company offices, there’s little shelter from the elements, and no facilities to speak of.QRr. Ali Kolonja, tel. +355 68 406 00 01.

CITY BUSES Tirana’s fleet of buses plies a total of 12 routes between about 05:00 and 22:00. Get on, pay the conductor 40 lek and away you go. It’s unlikely you’ll ever have to wait more than 10 minutes to travel on one, so at these prices and at this frequency it would be somewhat impolite to complain. The city centre is so compact that the need to use public transport won’t happen very often. All buses are marked with their destinations, making them relatively easy to use.

SPEAK SHQIP: TRAVEL TERMS airplane - avjon ferry - trageti airport - aeroport left - majtes car - veture, makinë right - djathas train - treni Is it far? - A është larg? bus - autobus Where am I? - Ku jam? station (train, bus) - stacion (treni, autobuzi) 2022

Arriving & Transport TRAINS In an act of madness, Tirana’s train station was demolished recently, with the nearest station now being 15km away in Kashar for trains to Durres and Shkodra. With shoddy second hand carriages, excruciatingly slow speeds and broken windows, Albania’s railway network is strictly for the most hardcore of train spotters. All is not lost - Albania was awarded a substantial grant to upgrade the tracks from near Tirana to the Montenegrin border to handle trains going up to 120 km/hr. Taxi love

RIDE SHARING UDHË Cheap and efficient intercity ride sharing, courtesy of a Kosovo-made app called ‘road’ that connects vetted drivers with passengers across Albania and Kosovo.Qtel. +383 49 42 92 47, www.merrudhe.com.

TAXIS Taxis are a useful form of transport in Tirana, and, after 22:00, if you’re too tipsy to walk or confidently operate a bicycle, they’re the only game in town. Several companies use meters and can print receipts if necessary. Our experience is that drivers don’t have to be reminded to use them. Rates start at 300 lek for the first 2km (sufficient for most city centre trips) and 95 lek/km after that. Between 22:00 and 07:00 the aforementioned start rate rises to 350 lek. Few drivers speak English, so it’s a good idea to write down the address, or to telephone someone who can explain. AIRPORT EXPRESS TAXI (ATEX) The official airport taxis, but not the cheapest ones.Qtel. +355 67 500 03 00/+355 4 238 7070, www.atex.al. Always open. GREEN TAXIS Electric fleet of taxis; use their website to share your location via Whatsapp. Green has an attractive flat airport rate, with pick-ups from the hotel opposite the terminal.Qtel. +355 800 20 00, www.green.al. MERR TAXI Merr has a fixed rate of 650 lek from central Tirana to the Dajti Express cable car.Qtel. +355 67 400 66 10/+355 800 5555, www.merrtaxi.com. Always Open. SPEED TAXI The taxis with the kangaroo. Easy online ride booking. Qtel. +355 4 222 25 55/+355 69 642 2211, www. speedtaxi.al. TAXI LUX ALBANIA Cheap fixed rates to (1100 lek) and from (1300 lek) the airport.Qtel. +355 4 562 03 33, www.taxiluxalbania.al. Always Open. 12 Tirana In Your Pocket

TRAVEL AGENCIES ALBANIA2GO A Dutch-Albanian owned company, offering tailor-made business, leisure and adventure trips across the country.QRr. Nikolla Jorga 9/1, tel. +355 69 647 88 50, www.albania2go. com. Open 09:00-20:00. ALBANIA HOLIDAYS The full range of tours and tourism services.QRr. Tish Dahia, Kompleksi Kika 1, Shk. 8, Ap.11, tel. +355 4 223 56 88, www.albania-holidays.com. Open 08:00-18:00; Sat 08:0016:000; closed Sun. ALBANIAN TRIP A renowned travel agency that’s committed to sustainable tours offering ‘handmade’ boutique travel experiences for groups and individuals, working with specialists and supporting local communities where possible. Food, nature, bunkers and military history are their specialities, and some tours include a meeting with one of Albania’s famed sworn virgins. Media productions, private transfers, car rental and booking of special family-owned accommodation and character hotels are possible too. Their ‘Villa with a Star’ office is also home to a quirky memorabilia collection (see Sightseeing). QRr. Dibres 261/1, tel. + 355 4 220 8414/+355 68 406 62 07, www.albaniantrip.com. LANDWAYS INTERNATIONAL Guided city tours, day trips to Apollonia, Berat, Durrës, Kruja and other destinations, plane tickets, discounted booking of the best hotels, and much more.QRr. Themistokli Germenji 10, tel. +355 42 255 655, www.landways.eu. Open 08:3017:30; closed Sat, Sun. OUTDOOR ALBANIA Tailor-made trips: trekking, mountain biking, rafting, kayaking, mountaineering, paragliding, 4W-driving and more, for individuals or groups. Even if you’re in just Tirana for a short while, they can arrange an active day trip in the nearby mountains.QRr. Gjin Bue Shpata 9/1, tel. +355 4 222 71 21, www. outdooralbania.com. Open 09:00-17:00; closed Sun, Sat. SONDOR TRAVEL A family-run business specialising in culural, mountain and outdoor holidays.QRr. Çerçiz Topulli, P. Reli, K.1, tel. +355 4 222 50 63/+355 68 40 517 66, www.sondortravel.com. Open 08:00-18:00; closed Sun.

History

Looking up inside the entrance to the Bunk’Art 2 museum

HISTORY OF ALBANIA The origins of today’s Albania can be traced back two-anda-half millennia with the settling of the Illyrians in the region, the people who most agree the modern Albanians are descended from. Part of the mighty Ottoman Empire from the end of the 14th century until the beginning of the 20th, and the only people to expel Nazi Germany without any assistance from a foreign army in 1944, Albania’s most recent long-term incarnation was as a post-war Communist country almost complexly isolated from the rest of the world. The plucky Albanian people have been struggling with their own unique version of democracy and capitalism for the last three decades, and it’s anyone’s guess what’s going to happen next. 4th century The Roman Empire is divided in 395AD. The territory of today’s Albania falls into the Eastern (Byzantine) Empire. 14th century The Ottomans invade what’s now Albania in 1385, a rule lasting over 500 years. 15th century Skanderbeg, the Albanian leader, wages a war of independence against the Ottomans starting in 1443, and enjoys remarkable success in keeping them at bay until his death in 1468. 19th century After numerous crushed uprisings and the Russian victory over the Ottoman Empire, the Prizren League is founded in 1878 to fight for Albanian autonomy 14 Tirana In Your Pocket

20TH CENTURY Local uprisings break out in 1909-1912. Albanians proclaim independence in Vlora on November 28, 1912. The Treaty of London recognises Albania in 1913, but Kosovo is given to Serbia. In 1914 Italy invades Albania. In 1920, Albania regains independence. In 1925, Ahmet Muhtar Zogolli becomes president, but in 1928 he proclaims Albania a kingdom and crowns himself King Zog I. He cooperates with the Italians, who invade again in 1939, occupying Albania until 1943 when Nazi Germany takes over until their retreat in November 1944. Albania becomes the only Nazi-occupied country to have more Jews living in it at the end of the conflict than when it began. The Communist-led National Liberation Front takes power. Yugoslavia, Albania’s erstwhile ally, tries to absorb the country, causing Albania to break with Belgrade in 1948. After 1956, when most of Eastern Europe undergoes de-Stalinisation, Albania maintains a hard line stance. It criticises the Soviet Union, with which it breaks relations in 1961. In 1968 Albania withdraws from the Warsaw Pact and cultivates relations with Communist China. Imitating Beijing, Albania purges ‘reactionary’ influences. In its own version of the Cultural Revolution in 1967, it outlaws religion, closes all 2169 of the country’s churches and mosques and becomes the only atheist state in the world. In 1978 the country’s leaders condemn China as revisionist and Albania is left with no friends. Party head Enver Hoxha dies on April 11, 1985.

History Post-Communist Albania 1990 After Communism collapses throughout Eastern Europe, Communist Party leader Ramiz Alia announces cautious democratisation in March. The People’s Assembly reverses the ban on religion and travel abroad in May. On December 12 the Democratic Party is founded. Nine days later, the authorities remove the statue of Stalin in Tirana. 1991 In February, students at Enver Hoxha University launch a strike. Weeks of protests culminate in the toppling of Enver Hoxha’s statue in Sheshi Skënderbej. Waves of refugees flee the country in March. On March 31 the first multi-party elections in 68 years result in a victory for the Communists. In June, the faults in the economy become clear when thousands of Albanians seeking asylum in Italy commandeer ships. An estimated 100,000 Albanians flee the country in 12 months. 1997 Collapsing pyramid schemes spark months of rioting and lawlessness in January. In June, parliamentary elections result in a landslide victory for the Socialists. President Berisha, blamed for allowing the pyramid schemes to flourish, resigns. 1999 In response to Serb attacks on ethnic Albanians in Kosovo, NATO launches an air war on Yugoslavia on March 25. The war turns Albania into a NATO base of operations, and by May 500,000 Kosovan refugees have flooded into the country. 2001 In October, Edi Rama, a former art lecturer and painter supported by the Socialist Party, is elected mayor of Tirana and initiates a series of projects that change the face of the city. 2005 In July, Sali Berisha’s Democratic Party wins the national elections from Fatos Nano’s Socialists. The election results are delayed after allegations of voting irregularities and three deaths. OSCE monitors report that the elections only partially complied with international standards. Novelist Ismail Kadare wins the first international version of Britain’s Man Booker Prize. 2006 Albania signs the Stabilisation and Association Agreement with the EU, the first step towards closer cooperation with the economic superpower. 2007 US President George W. Bush gets a hero’s welcome on his visit to Albania. tirana.inyourpocket.com

2008 In March, explosions in a factory used for defusing old munitions wipe out the village of Gërdec, 14km from Tirana, killing 26 and wounding nearly 300. Hundreds of houses are destroyed, windows of cars on the highway are shattered, and the blast is heard as far away as Skopje, 200km to the east. 2009 In April Albania joins NATO. In June Berisha’s Democratic Party narrowly wins the national elections, which were marred by continuing irregularities. 2010 The EU allows visa-free travel for Albanians to Europe’s Schengen countries. 2011 In January, violent opposition protests erupt after a video exposes corruption by the vice prime minister Illir Meta. Three demonstrators are killed by guards at the Prime Minister’s residence. 2012 The presidential elections turn into a farce when talks between the main party leaders Edi Rama and Sali Berisha fall apart. Two candidates withdraw before the Minister of Internal Affairs Bujar Nishani is elected with a majority of 73 votes. In November, Albania celebrates 100 years since its declaration of independence. The EU integration process stalls when the country is refused candidate member status. 2013 Tirana mayor Edi Rama of the Socialist Party becomes prime minister, winning elections again in 2017 and 2021. He sets about gradually modernising the economy. In 2015, the 36-year-old Socialist Erion Veliaj becomes Tirana’s mayor. 2019 On 26 November, western Albania is shaken by a 6.4-magnitude earthquake, the strongest tremor in 40 years, resulting in 51 casualties, thousands wounded and substantial damage, mainly in the Durres area. 2020 The Covid-19 pandemic reaches Albania in March, with lockdowns lifted after a relatively short time to limit economic effects. By 2022, Albania had 275,000 cases, with nearly 3500 deaths. Vaccinations started in early 2021, but have so far reached less than half the population. 2022 The war in Ukraine accelerates inflation, with prices of food, petrol and rents rising and resulting in demonstrations. Petrol prices are capped but are still some of the highest in Europe. 2022

Culture & Events Tirana is bustling with events this summer, and we’ve listed a few highlights here. Beside posters on the streets, the websites of Tirana XXL (www.tiranaxxl.al), the city’s parks department (www.aprtirana.al) and Visit Tirana (www. visit-tirana.com/things-to-do/events) are good sources of up-to-date events information. It that fails, ask anyone with an interesting haircut.

FESTIVALS TIRANA EUROPEAN YOUTH CAPITAL 2022 A major festival with international youth-related events spread throughout the year, www.tiranaeyc2022.al/en. JKN INTERNATIONAL CULTURAL WEEKS A festival presenting the sounds, images, aromas and tastes of 18 countries, conceived as an international cultural parade and extended throughout the year. Throughout 2022, schedule at www.jkn.al. TIRANA PHOTO FESTIVAL 9-23 September, Galeria e Artit, Rruga e Kavajës 5 The country’s largest photography event. www.tiranaphotofestival.com NATIONAL HISTORICAL MUSEUM EVENTS Full information at www.mhk.gov.al. Spring art exhibition, 1-15 June; European Day of Cultural Heritage, 26-30 September. A photo exhibition about archaeological parks. Egypt’s cultural weeks, 19-30 September.

SPORTS EVENTS UEFA Europa Conference League final, Roma v Feyenoord Rotterdam: 25 May, National Stadium; Tiranathlon: 29 May, Farkë lake.

BEACH FESTIVALS Head to the coast for some of Albania’s best festivals this year. SOUTH OUTDOOR FESTIVAL 29 April - 3 May, www.southoutdoor.al. Sports, culture, tradition, music, nature and food festival in Borsh. Also with sports activities and excursions with Landways. UNUM FESTIVAL 1-6 June, www.unumfestival.com. Electronic music festival at Rana e Hedhun beach in Shëngjin, with 50 international and local acts over the course of 5 days and 4 nights.

A night at the opera, by Albina Caci

OPERA & BALLET SCHEDULE L’Elisir D’amore 5, 6, 7, 8 May Verdi off Flash mob (La Traviata) (Pazari i Ri ) 11 May Verdi off - Ballo in suits 12 May Ballet Monger 15, 16 May Tonin Harapi, requiem concert 17 May Verdi off (Rigoletto) (Grand Park) 18 May AP Cycle, Golden necklace “Voice of the soul” Lefter Çipa concert 27 May Symphonic Concert 28 May G.Verdi “Un Ballo in Maschera” 2, 3, 4, 5 June Concert “Artists of the future” & Carmina Burana (Grand Park) 21 June British concert 25 June Generation after generation “Sounds of my city” (in Korça, Përmeti and Erseka) 25 June (in Fieri, Lushnja and Tepelena) 16 July Symphony Concert 27 June Ballet “La Stravaganza” 29 June Ballet “Metangata & Tanzminiature” 30 June American Concert 4 July Bridges of culture - British Concert (Grand Park) 21 June Concert “Bylbyli sings” (Grand Park) 20, 21 July ANJUNADEEP FEST 15-22 June, www.anjunadeep.com. Five nights of music, connection and discovery in Dhërmi. ION FESTIVAL 7-14 September, www.ionalbania.com. A music event in Dhërmi that’s a real holiday experience, with electronic music’s best artists.

HOSPITALITY ON THE BEACH 1-7 June, www.hospitalityonthebeach.com. A drum & Bass music festival at Tisno’s Garden Resort in Dhërmi. KALA FESTIVAL 8-15 June, www.kala.al. A boutique festival with laid-back music, wellness activities and food on Dhërmi beach. 16 Tirana In Your Pocket

Tirana ballet, by Albina Caci

Culture & Events TIRANA FILM FESTIVAL The 20th edition of Tirana’s film festival is promising to be bigger and better than ever before, with visits by local, regional and international filmmakers, screenings of hundreds of fiction, documentary, animation, experimental short films and videos from dozens of countries. The festival is unique for showing the works of young Albanian film, video, and media artists, and by directors from Kosovo. The screening venue is the Millennium Cinema. Tirana Film Festival, Cinema Short Film Festival, 2430 September, www.tiranafilmfest.com.

ART SPACES Tirana’s beating art heart. See also the Destil Creative Hub on p.42. TIRANA EKSPRES The railway warehouse where Tirana’s most exciting ‘art space’ started off was unfortunately bulldozed, but they’ve popped up again near the main market to organise art exhibitions and events ranging from performances, shows and film screenings to party nights.QE‑6, Rr. Hoxha Tahsin, tel. +355 69 656 90 03, www.tiranaekspres.com. Open 08:00-24:00. Open for events only, usually 21:00-24:00. TULLA CULTURE CENTER A wonderful space for alternative culture, art and music and a cafe too.QI‑2, Rr. Hiqmet Delvina 4/2, tel. +355 69 382 96 19, www.tulla.tv. Open 09:00-17:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-15:00. Free entry.

CINEMAS Films are usually shown in their original languages with Albanian subtitles. Tickets generally cost from between 400600 lek. The Tirana International Film Festival takes place every year in September. CINEPLEXX Seven screening rooms showing mostly blockbuster films. Cineplexx also has screens at the QTU mall on the Durres highway.QTirana East Gate mall (TEG), tel. +355 44 50 02 40, www.cineplexx.al. MARUBI FILM & MULTIMEDIA ACADEMY Regular free screenings of a wide range of films inside the city’s only film school, northeast of the centre near the Kinostudio bus line terminus.QRr. Aleksandër Moisiu 78, tel. +355 69 207 95 17, www.afmm.edu.al. MILLENNIUM Recent American films in their original language with Albanian subtitles. Book in advance for evening and weekend screenings.QF‑5, Rr. Murat Toptani, tel. +355 4 225 36 54, www.kinemamillennium.com. tirana.inyourpocket.com

CULTURAL CENTRES Not only do these foreign-run centres allow locals and foreigners alike access to many materials, they are important promotors of international culture, and support many events. ALLIANCE FRANÇAISE Borrow French books or language-learning materials. QD‑4/5, Rr. Barrikadave 122, tel. +355 4 222 56 97, www.aftirana.org. Open 10:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-13:00; closed Sun. AMERICAN CORNER Browse American literature, history books, periodicals and more at this centre beside the US Embassy. Also at the USAID center.QH/I‑6, Rr. Elbasanit, tel. +355 4 224 72 85. Open 08:00-20:00; closed Sat, Sun. BRITISH COUNCIL The UK cultural and educational centre.QE‑2, Rr. Sami Frasheri, tel. +355 4 224 08 56, www.britishcouncil. org/albania. Open 09:00-17:00; closed Sat, Sun. GOETHE INSTITUT The German cultural centre has a reading room with textbooks and literature inside the National Library.QH‑5/6, Rr. Skënderbej 1, tel. +355 4 224 5510, www.goethe. al/sq. Open 09:00-12:00, 14:00-17:00; Sat 08:00-14:00; closed Sun. ISTITUTO ITALIANO DI CULTURA The Italian Institute of Culture offers cultural events and language courses.QH‑6, Sheshi Skenderbej, Pallati i Kultures, Kati II, tel. +355 4 237 95 79, www.iictirana.esteri. it/IIC_Tirana/it. Open 10:00-12:30; Tue, Thu 10:0012:30, 15:00-17:00; closed Sat, Sun.

THEATRE, OPERA & DANCE ARTURBINA THEATER QRr. Sami Frashëri, tel. +355 4 222 30 22, www. teatrikombetar.gov.al. Open 09:00-13:00/16:0019:00. OPERA, BALLET & POPULAR ENSEMBLE THEATRE Performances by Tirana’s enthusiastic opera company, with English surtitles shown above the stage.QE‑4, Sheshi Skënderbej, Palace of Culture, tel. +355 4 222 74 71, www.tkob.gov.al. Ticket office open 10:00-14:00, 16:00-20:00. Tickets 500-2500 lek. THE PUPPET THEATRE (TEATRI KOMBËTAR I FËMIJËVE) Occasional puppet shows for children in a grand old building.QE/F‑4, Rr. Çamëria, tel. +355 4 222 24 46, www. qkkf.gov.al. Open 08:00-20:00. 2022

Feature, feature, feature

Kruja

Kruja, an evocative town set 600 metres high on a mountainside, 30 kilometres north of Tirana, is a recommended destination to visit for both its stunning location and importance to Albania’s history. With origins stretching back to the Iron Age, the town has the distinction of being the capital of the first autonomous Albanian state at the end of the 12th century and the place where the noble warrior and national hero Skanderbeg held the Ottomans at bay during the 15th century. Kruja features a handful of interesting sights to keep visitors busy for a few hours, including an inhabited ancient citadel holding a faux medieval castle built in 1982 to house a Skanderbeg museum, and a better-than-average Ethnographic Museum. The town is also a popular destination for shoppers, as the Old Bazaar beside the city walls has the best range of traditional Albanian gifts and souvenirs in the country. Kruja is particularly lovely during the winter when the town is often covered in snow. The restaurants at the top end of the citadel offer great views

View over Kruja

18 Tirana In Your Pocket

of the surroundings and serve traditional Albanian food at tourist prices. Turkish coffee comes in a traditional copper pot and is best enjoyed curled up on the pillows that surround the low tables of some restaurants. There are a few hotels scattered around town, plus one or two more secluded places to sleep on the surrounding mountainside and a camping site on the winding road up from the valley below. Most easily reached by driving a short detour via the airport road or Vorë, Kruja is indeed easily visited on your way to or from the airport. On the way there, don’t miss Europe’s only statue of President George W. Bush. Minibuses to Kruja depart from Tirana regularly and cost around 300 lek; a taxi ride will costs around 3000 lek.

PLACES OF INTEREST KRUJA CITADEL (KALAJA E KRUJËS) Kruja’s legendary fortress is perched on an outcrop of rock overlooking the valley. Its walls withstood waves of Turkish sieges, only finally being conquered well after Skanderbeg’s death. Entering the city gate from the Old Bazaar, you first come across the ruins of the old mosque of Sultan Mehmet Fath, dating back to 1478, just below the Skenderbeg Museum. Beyond that stands the Ethnographic Museum. Take a right down some lovely cobbled lanes to enter the inhabited part of the fortress; you’ll pass the hamam from around 1480 and finally the Dollma tekke, a Sufi shrine built in 1780 by the Toptani family (being renovated at time of writing). Outside are the graves of several babas and a dervish (holy men), shaded by a 500-year-old olive tree, said to have been planted to commemorate Skanderbeg’s wedding. A hole in the city wall near here offers great views over to the Adriatic Sea.

Kruja DUBYA IN KRUJA

Skenderbeg Museum, Kruja

SKENDERBEG MUSEUM (GJERGJ KASTRIOTI SKËNDERBEU MUSEUM) Built to honour Albania’s most-loved national hero, this large and somewhat ostentatious museum is something of a pilgrimage site for Albanians from across the Balkans. Set in a fake castle built in 1982, the halls hold a huge diorama of the man and copies of things such as his sword and spiky helmet - the originals are in Vienna. The ticket office doubles as a small bookshop, and occasionally stocks interesting historical books in English.QKalaja e Skenderbeut, tel. +355 511 222 25. Open 09:00-17:00; Sun 09-00-14:00. Admission 500 lek. ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM (MUZEU ETNOGRAFIK) A seriously beautiful traditional Albanian house built around 1800, exhibits on display include 19th-century women’s folk dress, traditional copper goods and clay utensils and some gorgeous pieces of original furniture. The friendly gentleman who looks after the place can take you on an English-language tour of the rooms to give you the full and fascinating story of the place.QKalaja e Skenderbeut, Kruja, tel. +355 511 222 25. Open 09:00-18:00. Admission 400 lek.

GEORGE W. BUSH STATUE The unremarkable market town of Fushë-Kruje on the approach to Kruja hosts the only statue to US president George W. Bush in Europe on its main crossroads, with the plaque describing him as a “great friend of the Albanians”. This may have been torn down in any other country, but here goes to show Albania’s long fascination with the land of the bald eagle, and its gratitude for US help during the Kosovo conflict. Bush is depicted with his sleeves rolled up during his visit to Albania in 2007, and legend goes that he lost his wristwatch while greeting enthusiastic crowds in this town, something later denied by US officials. Just around the corner there’s also a great byrek bakery and a bar named after the former statesman. QFushë-Kruje. Bye bye watch

WHERE TO EAT BARDHI An atmospheric, traditional-style building on the far edge of Kruja’s citadel, with awe-inspiring drops right beside the terrace, Bardhi is Kruja’s best option for farm-to-table food, with menu full of Albanian dishes made with organic products from the Bardhi family farm. Try the delicious bruschetta starters before moving on to a ‘village rooster’, grilled lamb ribs or calf liver with cheese - or settle for quality pasta or pizza. Home-made cheese, pots of jam, compote and pickles as well as wine and raki are also for sale here.QRr. Kala, Kruja, tel. +355 69 209 88 75, www. restorantbardhi.com. Open 09:00-22:00. €€€. AP TBL

WHERE TO STAY

Old Bazaar, Kruja

19 Tirana In Your Pocket

PANORAMA HOTEL KRUJA Not called the Panorama for nothing, this popular hotel right next to the Old Bazaar comes with well-equipped rooms, the best of them boasting balconies with views to die for. The hotel’s two restaurants churn out a magnificent array of local dishes.QRr. Kalase, tel. +355 511 243 36, www.hotelpanoramakruje.com. 85 rooms (singles €45, doubles €45, triples €55). APUBVW K i tirana.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

The new Namazgah Mosque in central Tirana

Tirana’s strengths lie not in landmark sights to be crossed off a bucket list, but in its vibrancy and the warmth of the people who live in it, qualities many better-known cities lack. Tirana is very much a city for the flâneur, a chaotic urban concoction, bursting with unexpected sights and sounds that are best appreciated whilst strolling its streets in a leisurely fashion. If you must see a must-see, make it the Et’hem Bey Mosque.

PLACES OF INTEREST BULEVARDI DËSHMORËT E KOMBIT The “Boulevard of the Martyrs of the Nation” is a wide and impressive kilometre-long road stretching northsouth between Sheshi Skënderbej and Sheshi Nënë Tereza. The work of the Italian architect and engineer Gherardo Bosio (1903-1941) and still featuring many of the original examples of fascist architecture that were built along its edges and around its squares, the street dates from 1939-1941 and is the only thoroughfare in the city that gives any sense of Tirana being anything other than a typical medium-sized Balkan town. Several of the city’s better museums can be found along it, among them the National Archaeological Museum, the National Art Gallery and, at its furthest northern point, the mosaic-clad National History Museum. With the addition of the Et’hem Bey Mosque and new office blocks springing up along its length, the street offers something of a condensed history lesson of the city in one architectural ensemble.QC‑4, I‑5. MOSAIC OF TIRANA (MOZAIKU I TIRANËS) Thought by many to be the remains of a Byzantine-era Roman villa built on this site in the 3rd century AD and uncovered in 1972, this small but recommended attraction features not only some well preserved mosaic floors as the name suggests but also a collection of beautiful carved stones complete with religious motifs that have 20 Tirana In Your Pocket

led some to believe the original building that stood here was in fact a church. The jury is still out, and for the average visitor the debate is of little importance. Well worth an hour or so of anyone’s time, despite the lack of explanations in English and the fact that it’s in the middle of a residential area.QE‑2, Rr. Naim Frashëri, tel. +355 4 222 60 05. Open 08:00-17:00; closed Sun. Admission free. THE BLLOKU ‘The block’ is a relatively small patchwork of streets in southwest central Tirana, saturated with some of the best bars, restaurants and shops in the city. After the war, the area was full of factories that were cleared to make way for an enclosed and guarded complex of luxury residential buildings for the exclusive use of the country’s ruling elite. Opened to the public during the political changes of the early 1990s, the Blloku is the place to come for fine dining, people-watching from one of the countless outdoor terraces, endlessly driving around in circles in expensive cars, and generally showing off.QH‑4. THE PYRAMID (PIRAMIDA) The pyramid, as it’s popularly known, opened in 1988 as a museum dedicated to the recently deceased Albanian dictator-cum-pharaoh Enver Hoxha. Designed by Hoxha’s daughter Pranvera, the building was reportedly the most expensive ever constructed in Albania. After the regime collapsed, the place became a conference centre and location of a club (called The Mummy, what else?). Demonstrations prevented plans to demolish the structure and currently it is being converted into an educational centre for children - with a publicly accessible rooftop area. After it’s finished, we may be able to view the Peace Bell in front of the building again, an installation from 1999 that’s a memorial to peace made by the children of Shkodra. The metal for the bell came from thousands of bullet cartridges fired off during the lawless 1990s.QG‑5, Blv. Bajram Curri.

Sightseeing TOURIST INFORMATION

BALKAN BOOKS: MINARETS

TIA TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER A useful tourist information kiosk in the airport arrivals hall.QTirana Airport, tel. +355 4 238 49 80. Open 09:00-19:00.

A fascinating travel book about the Muslim history in the Western Balkans that is at the same time a quest for personal identity, and the origins of European Islamophobia. Londoner Tharik Hussain, family in tow, tours the region, visiting mosques, Sufi lodges and Ottoman architecture, following the footsteps of the 17th-century explorer and travel writer Evliya Çelebi. He spends time in Albania too, visiting the legacy of nearly six centuries of incorporation in the Ottoman Empire, passing through Vlora, Gjirokastra, Berat, Tirana and Kruja. Hussain chats with locals everywhere about their relation to and opinions on Islam, meeting critics and converts, and discussing Albania’s curious mix of Bektashi sufism and newer, more conservative Muslim belief.

TOURIST INFOPOINT The official tourist information office is right behind the National History Museum. There’s friendly and knowledgeable staff at hand to answer question and give tips, as well as books to browse through and city maps to take away.QE‑4, Rr. Ded Gjo Luli 4, tel. +355 4 222 33 13, www.visit-tirana.com. Open 08:0016:00; Sat 09:00-14:00; closed Sun.

CHURCHES & MOSQUES Despite the former Communist regime’s total ban on religion starting in 1967 in which all 2169 religious buildings in Albania were closed and religious leaders of every faith persecuted, imprisoned, tortured and murdered, contemporary Albania has witnessed something of a religious revival since the regime change of 1991. As Tirana’s skyline suggests, the Albanian capital is home to believers from a number of faiths including both Sunni and Bektashi Muslims, Catholics and members of the Orthodox Autocephalous Church of Albania. BEKTASHI WORLD CENTRE (QENDRA BOTËRORE BEKTASHIANE) The Bektashi Order is a dervish sect that fuses elements of predominantly Shia and Sufi thought into a unique blend of Islamic belief and philosophy. Founded by Balim Sultan (1457-1517) and named in honour of the Muslim mystic Haji Bektash Veli (1209-1271), the Bektashi were found throughout the Ottoman Empire and had among their followers the Albanian national heroes Ali Pasha and Naim Frashëri. The Bektashi Order was outlawed by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk soon after the foundation of the Republic of Turkey in 1923, an event that led them to move their headquarters to Albania in 1925. The fabulous Bektashi World Centre northeast of central Tirana features a vast and impressive tekke with a fascinating museum in its basement and a small gift shop. Hidden in a network of small streets east of the city centre, follow the Kryegjyshata Botërore Bektashiane Selia e Shenjtë signs. QRr. Dhimitër Kamarda, tel. +355 67 308 82 71, www. kryegjyshataboterorebektashiane.org. Open 10:0013:00, 17:00-19:00. Admission free. CHRIST’S RESURRECTION CATHEDRAL (KATEDRALJA RINGJALLJES SE KRISHTI) Opened in 2012 and now the main centre for the Orthodox Autocephalous Church of Albania, the mighty Christ’s Resurrection Cathedral has a floor plan of some 1,660 square metres and features an unattached, 46-metre bell tower tirana.inyourpocket.com

Minarets in the Mountains, by Tharik Hussain, 2021, Bradt www.bradt.co.uk equipped with 16 bells and topped with four symbolic candles, the small Nativity Chapel and even a museum in the basement. The building conforms to no traditional ecclesiastical style, and is quite simply ostentatious and vulgar in equal amounts. To see it at its best, make a visit after dark when the entire structure lights up like a Las Vegas casino. Note that, unlike in for example the Orthodox churches of Russia, where the congregation stands, this building is full of seating.QF‑4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova. NAMAZGAH MOSQUE (XHAMIA E NAMAZGJASË) Planned and argued over since 1992 and under construction since 2015, the huge Namazgah Mosque is nearing completion. With four 50-metre high minarets and a 30-metre high central dome, the Turkish-style mosque is the largest in the Balkans, funded indirectly by the Turkish state and presented as a symbol of the brotherhood between the two nations. When finished, it will have space for up to 4500 worshippers, a cultural centre, exhibition hall, a library and underground parking.QF‑5, Rr. George W. Bush. ORTHODOX CATHEDRAL (KATEDRALJA ORTODOKSE ‘NGJALLJA E KRISHTIT’) The ‘Resurrection of Christ’ Orthodox Cathedral, the third largest in Europe, was consecrated in 2012 and has a 32-metre high dome and a separate 46-metre high bell tower with four lights symbolising the evangelists who proclaimed Christ’s resurrection. Below the frescoed main space, there’s a large hall for meetings and conferences, and a small museum.QF‑4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova 1, tel. +355 4 225 72 61, www.orthodoxalbania.org. 2022

Sightseeing SACRED HEART CHURCH (KISHA E ZEMRES SE SHENJTE) Tirana’s oldest surviving Catholic church was built in 1865 as a gift from the emperor Franz Joseph. Closed in 1967 at the start of the regime’s campaign against religion, the building functioned as a cinema until the early 1990s. For a Catholic church, the interior is incredibly modest. The newer St. Paul’s Cathedral is now the main Catholic church in town.QF‑3, Rr. Kavajës, tel. +355 4 224 86 91. ST. PAUL’S CATHEDRAL (KATEDRALJA E SHËN PALIT) This refreshingly simple if somewhat gargantuan house of worship was consecrated in 2002. The cathedral is built using a combined triangle and circle shape, representing the Trinity and God’s Eternity respectively, and features a relatively plain interior. The stained glass windows at the front feature both Mother Teresa, whose statue can also be found in the garden, and Pope John Paul II, who visited the site of the church and laid the cornerstone in 1993. A range of classical music concerts are held inside the building throughout the year. Mass in English on Sunday at 09:00. QG‑5, Blv. Zhan D’Ark. Open 07:00-19:00.

DAJTI MOUNTAIN At 1613m high, Dajti is Tirana’s own little mountain, easily accessed by cable car and a great option for a meal with breathtaking views, difficult hikes to the top, or wild bike rides back down to town. Most visitors rarely step outside the immediate area around the top cable car station, 1050 metres above sea level, where there’s a large picnic field, minigolf and a kids’ adventure park.

DAJTI EXPRESS (TELEFERIKU) A lovely 15-minute, 5-kilometre cable car ride across fields, forests, a lake and bunkers takes you up to the top station at 1050 metres above sea level, well below the peak, which is difficult to reach. Restaurant Ballkoni Dajtit offers great views across the city; next door the Dajti Tower Hotel has 24 rooms, a viewing platform and a rotating bar. The lower cable car station is reached on the Porcelan bus line from the city centre, or call Merr Taxi for their 650 lek fixed-rate fee. Easy to combine with the Bunk’Art 1 exhibition, right below the lower station.QRr. Mahmut Allushi, tel. +355 67 401 10 35, www.dajtiekspres.com. Open 09:0021:00; closed Tue. Return trip 1200 lek. 22 Tirana In Your Pocket

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM (MUZEU ARKEOLOGJIK I TIRANËS) Part of Albania’s Institute of Archaeology of the Academy of Sciences, this museum offers a fascinating journey into the country’s early history, from antiquity to the Middle Ages. Items on display range from ancient jewellery to Roman statues to vast clay pots covered in shellfish, found during the many archaeological field trips the museum is involved in. Visitors with a real interest in the subject are encouraged to contact the museum in advance to arrange a guided tour.QI‑5, Sheshi Nënë Tereza 3, tel. +355 42 24 07 13, www.asa.edu. al/site/ma. Open 09:00-14:00. Admission 300 lek. ARMED FORCES MUSEUM (MUZEU I FORCAVE TË ARMATOSURA) Set inside the Skënderbej garrison complex just off Rruga e Dibres, the well-designed Armed Forces Museum greets visitors with a whopping big SAM-2 anti-aircraft missile in the lobby. There are exhibitions on the military history from 1470-1939, the 1939-1945 Liberation War, and the Cold War years of 1945-1990 including gas masks for horses as well as all the usual lethal hardware. More heavy metal can be viewed in the courtyard, where they keep the big stuff: planes, tanks, a helicopter, an armoured personnel carrier and artillery. Foreigners need to apply for their visit by emailing a scan of their ID or passport at least 3 days in advance; locals just need to bring ID. QRr. e Dibres, tel. +355 4 510 18 00, www.mod.gov.al. Open 09:00-16:00; Fri 09:00-13:00; closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. NATIONAL GALLERY OF ARTS & THE CLOUD (GALERIA KOMBËTARE E ARTEVE) Closed for extensive renovations at time of writing, the excellent collection of the National Art Gallery with its Socialist Realist paintings should not be missed once it reopens in 2023 (we’re hoping the statues of Lenin and Stalin that used to be hidden away will be put on display again). On the lawn in front of the museum stands Sou Fujimoto’s wondrous and accessible ‘Cloud’ structure (Reja), an installation made of hard white metal, yet resembling a puffy cloud, especially when it’s lit up at night.QF‑4/5, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, www. galeriakombetare.gov.al. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission 200 lek. NATIONAL HISTORY MUSEUM (MUZEU HISTORIK KOMBËTAR) Behind the famous mosaic (currently being renovated), the country’s most important museum has three floors dedicated to individual social and political periods of Albanian history from its very beginnings through to the communist period. Despite only having decent English captions in the antiquity section, this museum has beautiful and unexpected surprises in abundance. Among the expected felt hats, pointy shoes and pho-

Sightseeing CITY TOURS ALBI CITY WALKS Explore Tirana with an enthusiastic young local who enjoys showing foreigners around his home town. Albi Kusuri usually meets visitors on Fridays at 17:00 for an informative three-hour stroll past all the main sights, but can also do themed walks on communism, food and (his favourite one) religion. Give him a call to arrange meeting at another time and place.Qtel. +355 69 55 81 794. TIRANA FREE TOUR Tirana walking tours by enthusiastic local guides, starting under the porch of the opera building. The 4km route takes around 2-2.5 hours and covers all main sights and the city’s recent history. There’s no fee, but tips are appreciated. Book ahead if you’re bringing more than 7 people, for joining the communism-themed tour on Saturday at 15:00 (€10), or the day trips to Kruja, Durres, Berat or Shkodra.QE‑4, Sheshi Skënderbej, tel. +355 69 631 58 58, www. tiranafreetour.com. Tours daily at 10:00 and 18:00, Oct-Mar 10:00 and 14:00. tographs of Ottoman-era Tirana before Enver Hoxha’s ideology and the bulldozers wrecked it, find some real treats, among them a red room with hundreds of Orthodox icons and the spectacularly named Pavilion of the National Liberation Antifascist War, which remains the only place in the city where you’ll find information on the amazing story of the Holocaust in Albania. The gift shop has books, traditional textiles and other souvenirs. With the addition of more explanations in English, this museum could become a genuinely outstanding one.QE‑4, Sheshi Skënderbej, tel. +355 4 222 39 77, www.mhk.gov.al. Open 09:00-19:00. Admission 500 lek. NATURAL SCIENCES MUSEUM (MUZEU I SHKENCAVE TË NATYRËS) Albania’s national zoological collection has over 100 thousand specimens from the countries’ rich flora and fauna, some dating back to 1900, of which some 3000 are on display in this museum just east of the centre. These include the skeleton of an unfortunate whale that stranded on Albania’s shore, stuffed Dalmatian pelicans and colourful butterfly specimens. Some interesting exhibits arrived here as gifts or purchases from befriended communist nations.QRr. Todi Shkurti, tel. +355 68 694 66 91. Open 08:00-16:30; closed Sat, Sun. Admission 50 lek. RADIO & TELEVISION MUSEUM A small, specialist exhibition inside the lobby of the Albanian public broadcaster RTSH, explaining the history of radio and television in Albania in a handful of extirana.inyourpocket.com

hibits, including an early wooden Adriatik television, a Chinese studio camera that fell to pieces in less than six months, and lots of interesting photographs.QH‑5, Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II, tel. +355 4 222 84 44, www.rtsh.al. Open 08:00-16:00; closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. VILLA WITH A STAR MEMORABILIA COLLECTION (ALBANIAN TRIP) The Albanian Trip travel agency has a great little collection of Communist-era memorabilia on display at their office, where visitors are welcomed with Turkish coffee or raki plus a quick explanation of the objects. Book your visit in advance by email.QC‑5, Rr. Dibres 261/1, tel. + 355 4 220 8414, www.albaniantrip.com. Open 10:00-15:00; closed Sat, Sun. Admission free, donations appreciated.

OTTOMAN TIRANA Tirana existed and grew under Ottoman rule for 500 years. For lovers of Ottoman architecture however, the news isn’t good. A great many of the city’s original Ottoman-era buildings were destroyed by Mussolini and Hoxha, and, with the exception of the buildings listed below, little of the original Ottoman city exists. There are some exceptions however, most notably in the area immediately northeast of Sheshi Skënderbej. CLOCK TOWER (KULLA E SAHATIT) Tirana’s Ottoman Clock Tower was built by the poet Haxhi Et’hem Bey and dates from 1822. Completed by the locals and extended to 35m in 1928 when a German-made clock was also installed (the current Chinese clock is the fourth in the tower’s existence), it was for a long time the tallest building in the city. The climb up the 90 steps to the top is worth it for the views of the main square.QF‑4/5, Sheshi Skënderbej, tel. +355 4 224 32 92. Open 08:00-15:00; Sat 09:00-14:00; closed Sun. Admission 200 lek. ET’HEM BEY MOSQUE (XHAMIA E ET’HEM BEUT) Construction of this gorgeous little mosque was started in the early 1790s by Molla Bey, a task that wasn’t completed for another three decades when the building was finally finished by his son, Haxhi Et’hem Bey. Closed under Communist rule, the building reopened as a house of worship in January 1991 without the permission of the authorities. Some 10,000 courageous people dared to attend prayers, and remarkably the police did nothing to intervene, an event now hailed as a milestone in the rebirth of religious freedom in Albania. Take a look at the colourful frescoes outside and in the portico which depict trees, waterfalls and bridges - motifs rarely seen in Islamic art. Take your shoes off before entering. Friday prayers at 13:30 from May-Sep, 12:30 Oct-Apr.QF‑4, Sheshi Skënderbej. Open 08:00-22:00, closed for 45 minutes each prayer time. 2022

Sightseeing HOUSE OF THE DERVISH KHOROSANI (SHTEPIA E DERVISH KHOROSANI) A beautiful 19th-century wooden building set in a small courtyard. Next to the gate is an octagonal türbe holding the graves of three babas. Find the house in a small courtyard beside the Sami Frasheri school.QD‑4, Rr. Barrikadave, tel. +355 69 728 81 11. Open only By ordering. Admission free.

ADVENTURE TOURISM ZIP LINE ALBANIA Albania’s first zipline, in the beautiful setting ot the Erzen river valley just below Petrelë castle, is also one of Europe’s longest, at 1250 metres long. Zippers can expect to reach speeds of up to 100km/hr, depending on weight and wind, zipping over trees, farms and across the river. Visitors can optionally park at the lower station to be brought up to the take-off platform by van. It’s a good idea to book ahead in summer and on weekends. The zipline is easy to combine with a visit to the castle and the Fustanella farm restaurant further down the road.QPetrelë, tel. +355 67 400 44 44. Open 10:00-19:00. 1800 lek per ride, second ride 1200 lek.

The ﬁrst in Albania! The longest in the Balkans! Among top 10 in Europe!

zipline.albania@gmail.com

24 Tirana In Your Pocket

KAPLAN PASHA’S TOMB (TYRBE E KAPLLAN PASHAIT) Dating from 1817, this eight-columned tomb celebrates Kaplan Pasha, a former Ottoman ruler of the city. Originally part of a larger mosque complex that was destroyed during WWII, the monument sat neglected and full of rubbish for decades until it was incorporated into the modern building that now graciously shields it at one corner. Grave-robbers beware, the tomb contains neither treasure nor the remains of Kaplan Pasha, who was later dug up and reburied in Istanbul.QF‑5, Rr. 28 Nëntori. MAHMUD AGHA KOKONOZI MOSQUE Sometimes referred to as the New Bazaar Mosque (Xhamia e Pazarit të Ri), this fine Ottoman-era building dates from the middle of the 18th century and is one of a very few of its kind to survive the atheist campaign that started in the late 1960s. Used as a food and tobacco store during the Hoxha period, the mosque reopened in 1991 with a reconstructed minaret - one of only a handful in the region to feature two balconies.QE‑5, Rr. Shemsi Haka, Pazari i Ri. SERAI OF SELIM PASHA TOPTANI The grand wooden Toptani family house is one of the few traditional Ottoman houses belonging to feudal lords (serai) to survive in Tirana. Built from 1833-1840, it is still

Sightseeing looking rather lovely. The restaurant here unfortunately closed years ago and nothing has happened since, meaning you’ll have to peek at the exterior from over the fence, with no way to view the small hamamxhik baths, and the carved wooden ceilings on the first floor.QF‑5, Rr. Abdi Toptani 7. TANNERS’ BRIDGE (URA E TABAKËVE) This small but elegant triple-arched Ottoman stone footbridge once served as the main connection between Tirana and the highlands to the east. It was used to get agricultural produce and livestock across the Lana River to the markets, and sits in the traditional area of skinners and leather workers - hence the name. The Lana was rerouted in the 1930s and the bridge was neglected. It’s now restored to its former glory and is proudly used by the locals again.QF‑6, Rr. George W. Bush. Admission free. TEKKE OF DERVISH HATIXHE (TEQEJA DERVISH HATIXHE) Dedicated to the female Bektashi saint Dervish Hatixhe (1798-?), Tirana’s own Florence Nightingale who nursed people through a cholera epidemic. After her death, a tekke was founded near her grave. It miraculously survived the Hoxha regime and is still visited by people of different faiths, especially women. A corridor leads past a soot-blackened candle room to where the graves of Hatixhe, members of her family and a former servant can all be seen.QC‑4, Rr. Dervish Hatixhe nr. 8, www. dervishhatixhe.com. Admission free. TIRANA CASTLE (KALAJA E TIRANËS) The foundations that have been incorporated into the pedestrian street are all that remains of Tirana’s original castle, a military stronghold dating from some time between the 4th and 6th centuries, though there’s also a stretch of defensive wall further along the street that dates back to Ottoman times. The Toptani family from Kruja took possession of the castle around 1800, leading to decades of conflict that was only settled by intermarrying the warring families, after which Tirana started growing. The brand new, bazaar-like Kalaja e Tiranës street inside the complex is lined by upmarket restaurants and shops. QF‑5, Rr. Murat Toptani, tel. +355 69 685 47 05, www. kalajaetiranes.com. VILA SALI SHIJAKU (SHTEPIA E SALI SHIJAKUT) Said by some to be the oldest house in the Balkans, this magnificent example of a traditional Ottoman-era konak is at least 300 years old and has over the centuries served as a military building, a hospital and even a women’s prison. Now owned by the Albanian artist Sali Shijaku (1933) and surrounded by a beautiful garden, the villa operates as a café and gallery containing a large collection of Impressionist and Socialist Realist paintings.QB‑5, Rr. Vildan Luarasi, tel. +355 4 226 14 58. Open 08:00-21:00. Admission 200 lek.

tirana.inyourpocket.com

The Bunk’Art 2 museum entrance

CATHARTIC TIRANA For almost 50 years the Albanians were at war with themselves, believing (or at least pretending to believe) they were fighting to defend a Socialist paradise. The reality, as everyone knows, is somewhat different. Unlike for example the three Baltic States of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania, occupied by Soviet Russia for a similar amount of time, the story of Communism in Albania is a strictly internal one, and it’s only recently that any effort has been made to confront the recent past. Several examples, which also provide visitors a chance to experience some well-managed Dark Tourism, have emerged in Tirana. BUNK’ART 1 This huge underground nuclear bunker built in the 1970s for Albania’s political and military elite has been transformed into a combined museum and art space. Some 40 of the total 100-plus rooms on five sprawling levels contain exhibitions about the bunker’s history, offering the first serious attempt to openly confront and openly discuss the country’s silent past. The bunker entrance is reached through a long tunnel, the Porcelan city bus stops nearby.QRr. Fadil Deliu, tel. +355 67 207 29 05, www.bunkart.al. Open 09:00-17:00. Admission 300500 lek. BUNK’ART 2 The second nuclear bunker to open to the public as a museum, this was finished in 1986 and lies behind the former Ministry of Internal Affairs in the city centre. Entered through a shattered bunker decorated with the photos of victims, the exhibition in the 24 rooms along cramped corridors focus on history of the Albanian police, security forces, the labour camps and the terror spread by the Sigurimi secret police. The highlight of the complex is the lonely, wood-panelled private room of the minister.QF‑4, Rr. Abdi Toptani, tel. +355 67 207 29 05, www.bunkart. al/2. Open 09:00-18:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00-19:00. Admission 500 lek. 2022

Sightseeing HOUSE OF LEAVES (SHTEPIA E GJETHEVE) This genuine house of horrors opposite the Orthodox Cathedral functioned as the national headquarters of the Gestapo during the Nazi occupation of 1943-1944 before falling into the hands of the Sigurimi, Albania’s Communist-era version of the KGB, who used it as both a listening post and place of torture. The House of Leaves, named after the foliage then covering the facade, was opened as a museum of secret surveillance in 2017, focusing on the persecution of and psychological violence waged against Albanian citizens, and the ways the Sigurimi sought to control people’s bodies and minds. In 9 sections with names like “bugs and other creatures” or “Daily life under surveillance”, all manners of spy gadgets, photos and documents are on display, accompanied by witnesses’ chilling tales.QF‑4, Rr.Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, tel. +355 4 222 26 12/+355 69 967 61 16, www.muzeugjethi.gov.al. Open 09:00-16:00; Sun 10:00-15:00; closed Mon. Admission 700 lek.

dyl (1839-1892) was the leader of the Prizren League, Sami (1850-1904) a radical agitator for an independent Albanian republic and Naim (1846-1900) is generally recognised as being the first major Albanian-language poet. The large artificial lake in the park is a popular place during the summer, and is ringed by a handful of restaurants.QJ‑5.

POSTBLLOKU (CHECKPOINT) Part of Albania’s ongoing attempts to un-erase certain aspects of its uncomfortable recent past and come to terms with its violent Communist-era history, Postblloku (Checkpoint), or the ‘Memorial to Communist Isolation’, commemorates the country’s political prisoners who suffered under the Hoxha regime. Co-created by the former dissident Fatos Lubonja and the artist Ardian Isufi, the monument is made up of three elements: one of the small concrete defensive bunkers that continue to litter the country, some concrete supports from the mine at the notorious Spaç forced labour camp where thousands of political prisoners suffered between 1968 and 1990, and a brightly painted section of the Berlin Wall from Potsdamer Platz that once split that city in half.QH‑4, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit.

CEMETERIES

PARKS & GARDENS BOTANICAL GARDENS (KOPSHTI BOTANIK) Part of Tirana University’s Faculty of Natural Sciences, Tirana’s Botanical Gardens is a pleasant, 15-hectare oasis on the western slopes of the city. Founded in 1971, the gardens house some 1,400 species of plants, representing about a third of Albania’s abundance of flora. Bring a picnic to enjoy the meadows and lanes of palm trees. If the gate isn’t open, wave and smile at one of the gardeners.QRr. Selita e Vjeter,, tel. +355 4 222 52 87. Open 08:00-14:00; closed Sat, Sun. Admission 50 lek. GRAND PARK (PARKU I MADH) A short stroll south of central Tirana, the city’s Grand Park offers a convenient respite away from all the traffic and dust. At one time, thousands of the city’s inhabitants came here to play and picnic. Now it’s a place for people to stroll, fish, swim and have a sneaky snooze after lunch. Among the park’s small collection of monuments are the tombs of the Frashëri brothers, who helped catalyse Albania’s national awakening towards the end of the 19th century. Ab26 Tirana In Your Pocket

ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS (KOPSHTI ZOOLOGJIK) Established in 1966, Tirana’s zoo was for years too depressing to write about, but now is undergoing much-needed renovations. The conditions for the animals have been much improved, with 2 bears (Roki and Smoki), wolves, llamas, ostriches, antelopes, buffaloes, eagles, hawks, and rabbits inhabiting the enclosures. On weekends, visitors can use the four-wheeled pedalon bikes for free. Walk under the bridge at the western end of the Grand Park dam to find the entrance.QRr. Haxhi Brari, www. aprtirana.al/parqe-rekreative/parku-zoologjik. Open 08:00-18:30. Admission 100 lek.

GRAND PARK MEMORIAL CEMETERY (VARREZAT E MEMORIALIT TEK PARKU I MADHE) According to the latest statistics, 53 British troops, most of them intelligence agents, lost their lives in Albania during WWII. This small cemetery features the graves of 46 of them, and was established by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission only in 1995, their sacrifice being long suppressed from the historical Albanian narrative. There’s an official ceremony here every year on May 8. Nearby the graves stands a red stone memorial to the servicemen this was originally the stone on top of Enver Hoxha’s grave in the National Martyrs’ Cemetery, and you can still see the holes that once held a plaque etched with Hoxha’s name in gold letters. To find it, walk south to the end of Rr. Ibrahim Rugova and enter the park taking the path uphill that branches to the left and keep looking left as you reach the top of the hill.QK‑6, www.aprtirana.al. NATIONAL MARTYRS’ CEMETERY (VARREZAT E DËSHMORËVE) The final resting place of some 900 Albanian partisans who gave their lives fighting to free Albania from fascist and Nazi occupation during WWII dates from 1972. Its literal and figurative crowning glory is Kristaq Rama’s impressive, 12m-high white statue of Mother Albania watching over the city in her windswept concrete gown. Dictator Enver Hoxha used to be buried at her feet until he fell from grace in 1991 and was moved to the city’s municipal cemetery the following year. In an interesting recent political move, Hoxha’s former resting place has been occupied with the remains of Azem Hajdari, the student leader behind the fight against the regime in the late 1980s who was assassinated in Tirana in 1998. The view of the city spread out below and mountains surrounding it is worth the visit alone. QK‑6, Rr. e Elbasanit, www.aprtirana.al.

Where to Eat SYMBOL KEY P Air-conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

E Live music

G Non-smoking

B Outside seating Alongside a highly recommended collection of restaurants serving traditional Albanian cuisine, Tirana continues to add dining options to its repertoire, including more and more places serving ‘health food’ and those returning to their Albanian farming roots. With a few upmarket exceptions, dining here remains an affordable extravagance that can be enjoyed outdoors for much of the year. Eating out in Tirana has never been this good.

ALBANIAN Albanian cuisine offers a unique fusion of predominantly Balkan, Mediterranean and Turkish flavours with an emphasis on grilled meat, fresh vegetables, exotic desserts and individual portions that could keep an entire army marching on its stomach for a week. Restaurants serving Albanian food range from cheap and cheerful establishments complete with grubby tablecloths to places where you’re very likely to bump into the rich and famous.

tirana.inyourpocket.com

Communist-era memorabilia at Radio Bar

ERA RESTAURANTS Established in 1999 and hugely popular ever since, the Era restaurants serve the best of Albanian traditional dishes with only the finest cuts and ingredients. The menu evolves every few years and features outstanding traditional recipes, fresh salads, tasty desserts and pleasant wines. The professionalism is enhanced by the staff, many of whom have been working here for over a decade. Era Villa resembles a secret garden in the heart of the busy city, while Era Blloku is cozy and comfortable, located on Rr. Ismail Qemali in one of the most vibrant districts of Tirana.QH/I‑5, Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II, 11, tel. +355 4 225 50 00, www.era.al. Open 11:00-24:00. €€. APTB

2022

Where to Eat BALLKONI DAJTIT A rather lovely, Alpine-style wooden restaurant next to the cable car station with some excellent views of Tirana, this recommended place features a choice of several dining rooms of which the enclosed balcony offers the best views. Ballkoni Dajtit serves mostly Albanian cuisine, such as fergesë me speca (a dish with eggs and cheese), oven dishes, and, during the season, wild boar and rabbit.Qtel. +355 67 401 1021, www.dajtiekspres.com/facilities/ restaurant-ballkoni-dajtit. Open 09:00-22:00; closed Tue. €€. APTBL BUJTINA JONE What would you think if someone told you of a restaurant with ‘Albanian-style yum cha dining’? Ignore the extensive menu, and hand-pick local meze from a cart of ready-togo dishes that’s wheeled to your table. Each one costs 150 lek, and each one is worth at least triple that. Whilst the super-acidic house white wine is not recommended, virtually everything else is, so let the good times roll as you enjoy the views from the far side of the lake, and the beautiful garden scenery of this villa restaurant.QRr. Memo Bejko, tel. +355 67 205 29 86. Open 07:00-23:00. €€. APBE ILLUMINATUM Nuance between venue name and that of the conspiratorial secret society “The Illuminati” does not go unnoticed, especially after laying eyes on this elaborate, full-blown folly of a castle just 10 minutes drive south-east of the city. The outward appearance is only the start of the fairy-tale. Traditional Albanian fare whipped up by the kitchen staff and laid out before you by impeccably-dressed servers will make you feel like genuine royalty. Meanwhile, prices seem outrageously low for the overall experience.QUra e Peshkatarit, Petrele, tel. +355 69 208 88 22, www. iluminatum-residence.business.site. Open 12:00-24:00. €€€. APTBL ODA A truly traditional restaurant, where you can eat sitting at low tables in a reconstructed oda (guest room) in an old Ottoman-era house. Surrounded by shelves with dishes, strings of garlic and peppers and old photographs, it’s best to allow the waiters to suggest a succession of appetisers and mains. The food is fresh and delicious (try the lakror në saç ovenbaked pie), unforgettable even after washing it all down with several glasses of their home-made raki. They recently opened a lovely little garden terrace as well. Find it down a tiny alley on the north side of the road near Sheshi Avni Rushtemi.QE‑5, Rr. Luigj Gurakuqi, tel. +355 69 966 88 81. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. €. NPB VILA 31 A definite contender for Tirana’s most charming restaurant and also very hard to to find, Villa 31 really is marvellous, with an immaculately kept garden and gorgeous dining halls, one of which features a wall full of shelves stuffed with model submarines. Another room has a big open cooking place. The staff are friendly and helpful, and the exten28 Tirana In Your Pocket

O, DJALI! You’ll need to grab attention and let your waiter know if you need something - anything from a menu to paying the bill. Albanians just aren’t in a rush, so don’t hesitate to calmly yell out O, djali! (for men) or O, vajza! (for women) as you wave your arm to let them know you require service. sive menu has something for everyone. From Rr. Kavajës walk down Rr. Naim Frashëri and look for the sign down the fourth alley on your right.QE‑2, Rr. Thoma Kacorri 2, tel. +355 69 321 23 96, www.vila31.business.site. Open 07:00-24:00. €€. APB ZAFFERANO The number one lunch spot for locals and expats in the Komuna e Parisit district, tucked away near the Kika 2 Complex. This small, family-run business is one of the best-kept secrets of the neighbourhood. Depending on your mood, choose either from the revolving daily menu or go for a customizable pasta or risotto. Definitely try the tave dheu, a casserole of beef, curds, tomatoes and peppers baked in a claypot - the ultimate Albanian comfort food. QJ‑2, Rr. Haxhi Kika, tel. +355 69 587 25 06, www.zafferanorestaurant. business.site. Open 09:00-23:00. €€€. PB

FARM TO TABLE See also our Slow Food feature on p.37. CEREN ISMET SHEHU “Katunar and Proud!” read the aprons of the staff here, declaring their love for simple village life and turning a somewhat derogatory term into one of endearment. This Tirana institution is best known for its incredible farm-raised meats. Also found along the road up Dajti mountain, enjoy a tasting plate of local appetisers before digging your teeth into spit-roasted goat or lamb for an authentic Albanian culinary experience.QF‑5, Shëtitorja Murat Toptani, Kalaja e Tiranes, tel. +355 69 386 66 65, www.ceren-ismet-shehu. business.site. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€. APB FERMA 100 A large, modern pavillion of a restaurant overlooking the valley where the owner farms some of the ingredients used in the kitchen. Ferma 100 serves top-quality Albanian dishes and has a display full of fantastic steaks to choose from. The size of their car park and the kids’ playground serves as a good warning that you should book ahead at weekends.QB-22 road, Vishaj, tel. +355 69 900 90 90, www. ferma100.com/sq. Open 09:00-23:00. €€€. APTB L FUSTANELLA The most authentic organic farm restaurant we visited around Tirana, Fustanella is named after the traditional white kilt worn by men in these regions and sits on a hill-

Where to Eat side amid its vegetable and potato fields - where you’re welcome to wander around. Once seated in the elegant dining room with fabulous valley views, you feast on fresh farm bread, delicious small meze plates and seasonal meat courses, while the farm cats hunt for scraps. Home-made wine, raki, jam and oils for sale too.QPetrelë, tel. +.355 69 448 40 00, www.fustanella-farm.business.site. Open 12:30-22:30; Sat, Sun 09:00-23:00. €€€. ABE GZONA Located in the Castle of Tirana, this is the first restaurant in Tirana to truly modernise traditional Albanian food concepts. Head chef Bleri Dervishi may be young, but after immigrating with his family to Italy he began cooking at just 11 years old. His slow food of the modern day includes quail with juniper berries, and fish ragout with hazelnuts and mountain herbs. The awards received by this restaurant are a testament to its success.QF‑5, Rr. Murat Toptani, Kalaja e Tiranes, tel. +355 68 807 06 05, www.gzona.al. Open 12:30-23:00. €€€. APB MRIZI I ZANAVE One of the best farm-to-table options in Tirana, the food pouring out of the kitchen in this place near the Tanners’ Bridge never disappoints. Overseen by Avni, unquestionably one of the finest chefs in the country, Mrizi i Zanave specialises in classic local dishes with some modern twists. Relatively quiet during the week, this restaurant explodes on weekend evenings when large families come to forget about their waistlines and dance the night away to live traditional Albanian music. Not to be confused with their restaurant in northern Albania.QF‑5, Bulevardi Zhan D’Ark, tel. +355 67 691 6596, www.mrizi-i-zanave.business.site. Open 11:00-23:00. €€. APGE MULLIXHIU By now Albania’s most famous restaurant abroad, Mullixhiu, ‘the miller’, is where celebrity chef Bledar Kola brings country dining to the 21st century. Using the best locally-sourced ingredients, the menu offers an imaginative journey around traditional Albanian cuisine with lots of fancy flourishes. The rather modest, wood-panelled room doesn’t seat too many guests, so book ahead online. Find Mullixhiu hidden in the basement of a block in the park at the southern end of Rruga Sami Frashëri. QK‑4, Shëtitorja Lasgush Poradeci, Grand Park, tel. +355 69 666 04 44, www.mullixhiu. al. Open 12:00-22:00. Lunch Service 12:00-16:00 / Dinner Service 18:00-22:00. €€€. APB NANO RESORT Nano Resort is a sprawling farm and traditional restaurant with gorgeous green views, a good 15km southeast of the city. The no-thrills ‘bio food’ food on offer is genuinely authentic and packed with the kinds of flavours that simply don’t need any fancy touches. The popularity of the place means that the large dining rooms can easily get packed at weekends, so book in advance.QDaias, Petrelë, tel. +355 67 203 01 93, www.nanoresort.al. Open 12:00-24:00. €€€. APTUB6 tirana.inyourpocket.com

Behind the museum at Piazza

PRICE GUIDE As an indication of cost, in each review we’ve listed the average price of a main course dish, without drinks. € Under 500 lek

€€€ Over 1,000 lek

€€ 500 - 1,000 lek

MENU DECODER This should help you figure out what just slipped down your throat. Meat & Fish beef - biftek chicken - pulë lamb - mish qengji pork - derr sausage - sallam veal - mish viçi bass - levrek Fruits & Vegetables apple - mollë banana - banane cabbage - lakër carrot - karrota eggplant - patëllxhane Drinks beer - birrë juice - leng

codfish - merluc fish - peshk prawns - karkaleca deti salmon - salmon sea food - fruta deti sole - gjuhës trout - troftë

mushrooms - kërpudha orange - portokalle peppers - speca tomatoes - domate

wine - verë water - ujë

Common dishes Byrek - pie with cheese, meat or herbs Patate të skuqura - french fries Tavë kosi - baked lamb, yogurt and eggs Fërgesë - fried minced lamb or liver, feta cheese and garlic Speca të mbushur - stuffed peppers, feta cheese, herbs 2022

Where to Eat AMERICAN

SPEAK SHQIP: TABLE TALK

DUFF Offering a little taste of America in Albania, long-time favoured expat haunt Duff (as in the beer drunk in The Simpsons) dishes up some of the tastiest burgers in town alongside favourites such as Philly cheesesteak. Punters can enjoy an intense match of beer pong as they watch American football, baseball or European and local soccer matches. A second location, Duff Arena, can be found at the national stadium. Reservations are definitely required for both locations on big game nights. QH‑3, Rr. Brigada VIII, tel. +355 69 314 4661, www. duff-sports-bar.business.site. Open 07:00-02:00. €€. AP GE

Welcome! - Mirëseerdhët! What do you recommend? - Çfarë rekomandoni? I would like... - do të preferoja... May I have a... - a mund të kem një... ... spoon - lugë ... fork - pirun ... knife - thikë … please - ...ju lutem. The bill please - Faturën ju lutem Thank you - Faleminderit

ASIAN In the late 1950s, when Stalin’s regime was denounced, Albania turned to the Chinese for strict moral guidance, until they too were considered too bourgeois. However, it took several decades for a proper Chinese restaurant to open in Tirana. The Asian eateries present now are not quite authentic, but do the trick if you need a filling meal. KUNG FU EXPRESS A popular buffet-style restaurant with a large open kitchen and even larger pictures of Bruce Lee all over the place, Kung Fu Express serves food that’s ready to eat as well as food you have to wait for. We can recommend chicken chow mein, spring rolls and ‘prawn crisps’. The larger portions on offer can easily feed two.QE‑4, Rr. Ismail Qemali, tel. +355 67 522 5555, www.kungfu-al.com. Open 11:30-23:00. €€. P MIMI THAI CHINESE The cornucopia of Chinese and other Asian cuisines they bash together in their woks at Mimi’s wouldn’t be out of place in any half-way respectable Beijing suburb. There’s friendly service as you’d expect from Tirana, plus a full range of chicken, pork, noodle and beef standards: seafood specialities include calamari and shrimp.QI‑5, Rr. Dervish Hima, tel. +355 69 219 91 01. Open 12:00-23:00. €€. PB

ORIENTAL CITY A small, family-run business with a large menu of mostly Chinese dishes, Oriental City serves all the classics in suitably Asian-looking surroundings. Plenty of vegetarian options. There’s a tiny little seating area if you prefer devouring your noodles al fresco.QH‑5, Rr. Themistokli Germenji, tel. +355 42 28 88 88, www.oriental-citychinese-restaurant.business.site. Open 12:00-22:00. €€- €€€. APGB

BURGERS DELIBROS Great ‘artisan’ burgers in a modest restaurant with a small terrace. With nine burger varieties, our Smashburger was served fast, hot and delicious, and the Chuck Norris burger and pastrami sandwich didn’t look half bad either.QH‑3, Rr. Komuna e Parisit 19, tel. +355 67 754 44 44, www. delibrosfood.com. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri 13:00-23:00. €. APB LIKOS BURGER Whilst most Albanian burger joints fill their buns with a qofte replica of a burger patty, Likos’ lush, full-meat patties are a welcome surprise. Found in two of the most up and coming areas of Tirana, Likos also offers all the usual fast food, with the chicken gyros also a menu highlight. Also on Rr. Muhamet Gjollesha.QG‑1, Rr. Kavajes, tel. +355 69 338 22 23, www.likosburger.com. Open 10:00-2:00. €€. PB

FINE DINING

Enver Hosha’s digs in the Blloku

30 Tirana In Your Pocket

HEAT BY CALME French fine dining at its best. With a refined interior, a small terrace and excellent service, book a table here for fantastic and beautifully presented dishes by a chef who previously worked in a three-starred Parisian restaurant. Try the foie gras or escargots starter, a duck or red mullet main course, and a chocolate cigar for dessert.QH‑4, Rr. Ismail Qemali, tel. +355 67 409 99 59, www.heat.al. Open 08:00-23:00; closed Sun. €€€. PB

Where to Eat KARLSBERG This classy hotel restaurant is deservedly popular with the foreign crowd. Brick arches surround the diners, while some of the country’s best chefs ensure a quality meal is served time and time again from am impressive menu of Albanian and international cuisine. During the summer, head for the openair rooftop restaurant, a dazzlingly white classicist pleasure garden complete with fountains and amazing views.QI‑4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova, Xheko Imperial Hotel, tel. +355 68 202 97 77. Open 07:00-24:00. €€€. APGE OTIUM A firm and seasoned favourite, cosy little Otium churns out plate after plate of fabulous-looking food, thrown together from fresh ingredients bought by the chef every morning. There’s no menu; the waiters will suggest a meal suited to your taste. Featuring large salads and a lot of well-prepared meat including excellent burgers, Otium is Tirana’s fine dining gem.QH‑3, Rr. Brigada e VIII, tel. +355 4 222 3570, www.otium-restaurant.com. Open 12:00-23:00; closed Sun. $$$. APG SALT Much talked about by the Tirana in-crowd, Salt is an upmarket place set in a two-storey designer space hidden between the Blloku blocks. The pricey dishes served here include sushi, Mediterranean meals and seafood all washed down with good wines and cocktails.QH‑4, Rr.Pjeter Bogdani, tel. +355 69 400 00 13, www.salt. al. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00:23:00. €€€. APB

INDIAN CHAKRA INDIAN FUSION Firmly established in the Millennium cinema compound and featuring Indian chefs working away in the kitchen, you know this is the real deal just from the smell of spice that hits you when you enter the classy dark interior. The menu is packed with classic dishes from fresh pakora to a proper vindaloo, some unusual inventions like the Indian burger, plus a big selection for vegetarians. The dessert menu is tiny to say the least, although there are a handful of lassis. Their sister restaurant Chakra Jonë on Rruga Tish Dahia in the Komuna e Parisit district is just as worthy of a visit.QJ‑2, Rr. Murat Toptani, tel. +355 67 200 52 22, www.chakrarestaurant.al. Open 12:00-22:00. €€. APG

INTERNATIONAL À LA SANTÉ Flavours, aromas and colours congregate on your plate at this popular Mediterranean restaurant - but not for too long as everything they serve is delicious. From risotto, ravioli and beef to fantastic desserts. Hidden down the small street behind the Baronesha shop, just south of Rr. Bogdani.QH‑3, Rr. Sami Frashëri, tel. +355 4 562 87 80. Open 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00. tirana.inyourpocket.com

CENI’S Ceni’s serves wonderfully fresh and original Italian and other regional food in a small basement not far from Grand Park. The owner is also a butcher, and his cuts of meat are some of the best in Tirana. With a changing daily menu you’re never quite sure what’s going to end up on your plate but if it helps, we recommend sticking to the pasta with additional meat for non-vegetarians. The business lunch offer is extremely good value for money. QK‑4, Rr. Sami Frashëri 4, tel. +355 67 406 61 66, www. cenisrestaurante.com. Open 12:30-22:30; closed Sun. €€. NX CITY LOUNGE In the back corner of the Kika 2 Complex, City Lounge is a huge venue with a menu to match its size. Wood-fired pizzas, pastas, risottos, burgers and the excellent cold or hot antipasto platters are all highlights of the menu. The value is incredible and service is quick, friendly and more personable than most in the city. The large outdoor space for kids to run around makes it a family favourite, too.QJ‑2, Rr. Tish Dahia, tel. +355 69 833 11 11. €-€€. AP B E JONA A bustling restaurant set back from the street, E Jone (‘our place’) offers everything from humus and risotto to lamb chops. A popular place for quick and affordable business lunches during the week, find the changing specials listed on the blackboard. There’s a quiet garden terrace as well. QH‑4, Rr. Brigada VIII 7, tel. +355 69 251 5333. Open 08:00-23:00; closed Sun. €€. AP FRESH GARDEN Slow service is to be expected all across Albania and Tirana is no exception - however Fresh Garden is. Attached to the organic supermarket below, this restaurant truly understands the idea of a business lunch, in that it can spit out courses in succession with a speed appropriate for those in the hastiest of a rush. For those eaters with social media following their every bite, the dishes are picture perfect too.QH‑3/4, Rr. Brigada VIII 4, tel. +355 67 402 07 77, www.fresh-garden.al/daily-menu.html. Open 08:0024:00. €€. PBL KOSHERJA Be greeted by a cute courtyard with a Parisian vibe before entering the grand dining area and you’ll understand that the atmosphere here is as multicultural as the menu. Flavours from across the globe are featured, from Thailand to Mexico, Albania to Argentina. Enjoy a range of tapas dishes or dig into a full platter of Argentine meats. The courtyard at Kosherja, meaning beehive, is a wonderful place to soak up some summer sunshine whilst enjoying a drink. QG‑5, Rr. Jul Variboba, tel. +355 69 206 00 99. Open 09:0011:30. €€. APTUB

2022

Where to Eat BRUNCH BUFE Many places in Tirana claim to host brunch, but few actually deliver on the promise. Bufe was one of the first to embrace the magic of the mid-morning meal and, as such, offers all the typical classics for breakfast or brunch that will have your eyes looking like the love-heart-eyed emoji. In the afternoon and evening, mix and match your favourite appetisers, be they from sea or earth, or dig into their pasta dishes.QF‑4, Rr. Reshit Çollaku, tel. +355 69 318 11 49. Open 08:3024:00. €€. APB

LÖWENGRUBE A small corner of Bavaria at the southern end of the national stadium, the ‘Lion’s Den’ Bierstube has a franchise feel to it but serves authentic Späzle noodles, meaty German specialities like Bratwurst or grillplatters, together with excellent draft Löwenbräu and Franziskaner beers. Prosit.QI‑5, Sheshi Italia 1, tel. +355 4 450 50 05, www. lowengrube.al. Open 08:00-24:00. €€€. APB MIA BISTRO Contemporary with a courtyard terrace, this bistro is as cool as it is casual. The menu takes inspiration from around the globe (brunch and sushi are standouts here) and cocktails are world-class. MIA is the kind of place you can sit for hours as you watch the world go by. The crowd tends to be on the younger side and there’s a definite “too cool for school” vibe in the afternoons. Weekend nights the DJ really gets into it, spitting out soft electro tunes.QH‑4, Rr. Vaso Pasha, tel. +355 69 906 66 66. Open 07:00-24:00. €€. APUBE MILLENNIUM GARDEN Tirana’s best garden terrace, beside the Millennium cinema and removed from traffic, is dominated by lush greenery, garden fragrances and birdsong - when the music’s not too loud. The bar and restaurant promises a “journey through taste, drinks and sound” and has an eclectic and somewhat pricey menu featuring everything from breakfast and brunch classics to burgers, pizza, poke bowls, sushi and Indian food.QF‑5, Shëtitorja Murat Toptani, tel. +355 69 472 5106. Open 12:00-24:00. €€€. APB PIANO BAR PIAZZA After all these years Piazza remains a good spot to dine on well-prepared Italian dishes including some fine efforts made with their home-made pasta. The very best thing about the place is the lush terrace, set among blooming flower beds and palm trees behind the National Museum, away from the traffic.QE‑4, Rr. Ded Gjo Luli, Sheshi Harry Truman, tel. +355 42 23 07 06, www.piazza.com.al. Open 12:00-24:00. €€. APTUB 32 Tirana In Your Pocket

Souvenirs at the Pazari i Ri market

TERRACOTTA Passionate for Mediterranean food, the chefs here don’t follow a menu but rather create dishes from whatever is fresh that day, served with home-made pasta and delicious salads. The tiny restaurant with a few seats by the kitchen and the rest downstairs can get busy.QH‑2, Rr. Komuna e Parisit, tel. +355 68 306 99 90, www. terracotta-restorant.business.site. Open 12:00-23:00; closed Sun. €€. APGS THE GOAT A bustling, bright restaurant on the busiest stretch of the Blloku, this ‘gastro pub’ has everything from slap-up breakfasts, salads and burgers to tenderloin with Minnesota sauce... and draft beers and cocktails, of course. Everything except goat, come to think of it.QH‑4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova, tel. +355 69 600 46 28, www.thegoat.al. Open 07:00-24:00. €€. APB THE HOME A stylish restaurant with exposed brickwork, serving beautifully presented international dishes, ranging from Mediterranean classics and burgers to Mexican weekend brunches. Don’t miss their petulla donuts. Set back from the street, the first-floor tables overlook the market, mosque and mountains.QE‑5, Rr. Shenasi Dishnica 1, Pazar i Ri, tel. +355 68 207 19 89. Open 08:00-11:30. €€. PB

ITALIAN ARTIGIANO Artigiano and its sister restaurant Villa Artigiano (set behind a lovely leafy garden on Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II) both offer high-quality Italian dishes. You can expect treats prepared from their home-made pasta, cracking pizza baked in a proper wood-fired oven, gourmet burgers and seasonal salads - all served with a smile.QI‑4, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri, tel. +355 69 20 92 358, www.artigiano.al. Open 11:00-24:00. €€. APTB

Where to Eat FRATERIE What lies behind the doors of this restaurant are dishes so good that they made us cry tears of joy. The chef is most proud of his meat offerings, however it’s the pasta that is the true star here - definitely the best in Tirana, created with such love and care that one could argue it’s better than in Italy, and at a fraction of the price. Wine lovers will not be disappointed by the house choices here, either. QJ‑2, Rr. Bilal Golemi 2, tel. +355 674010403. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-16:00. €€. A GASTRO ORGANIC Humble is the best description for this eatery found in the student district, but those in the know are fully aware that this is one of the best pasta restaurants around. The owner is well-versed in true Italian pasta preparation and passionate about his work. Catering to students, prices are more than reasonable. The Mosaic of Tirana is nearby - though still closed at time of writing.QE‑2, Rr. Frederik Shiroka, tel. +355 69 263 75 75, www.gastro-organic. business.site. Open 11:30-24:00. €€. APBL GREEN HOUSE A 1930s villa with a quiet courtyard hidden behind high hedges seems the perfect place to indulge in some Italian food accompanied by a good selection of wines. The outside seating area has a tropical feel to it, while inside it’s all minimalist chic with delicate spotlighting.QG‑5, Rr. Jul Varibova 6, tel. +355 69 205 7599, www.greenhouse.al. Open 12:00-22:30. €€€. APB JUVENILJA CASTELO A little folly of a castle surrounded by lush greenery is as close as you can get to Camelot at a stone’s throw from the national stadium. Juvenilja has been dishing up pizza, pasta, risotto and Italian mains here since 2001, with some excellent desserts to wrap up the evening, or your afternoon. There’s another Juvenilja on Rr. Sami Frashëri in the Blloku.QJ‑6, Rr. Skerdilajd Llagami, tel. +355 422 666 66. Open 12:00-11:00. APB L’OSTERIA If you happen by L’Osteria, you too will be sucked in by the cuteness of its curbside appeal. It won’t stop at the street, either - the overture continues as you go inside, the adorable table decor seemingly straight out of a magazine. Then the food comes and it’s absolutely delectable - if you’re unaccompanied you might be inclined to join an app just to enjoy a first encounter in what can only be described as the perfect first-date location.QE‑3, Rr. Mihal Duri 7, tel. +355 69 877 11 89, www.losteriarestaurant. business.site. Open 11:30-23:00. €€. APB PANEVINO A firm business dinner favourite next to the Maritim Plaza Hotel, expect a classy interior with an open kitchen, all of your favourite Italian dishes and a few surprises such as their awesome cheeseburger. The outside seating is a little way from the chaos in the street and provides some much tirana.inyourpocket.com

FOOD DELIVERY APPS Albania hasn’t quite stepped into the technological world in the way that other countries have in regards to apps, but one area where you’ll find a few contenders is with food deliveries. The oldest and the biggest is Baboon - this cash-on-delivery service has the largest selection of restaurants to order from. Foodini is a contender for the most convenient, as you can pay directly by card through the app and order your food for a future delivery time. Others include SnapFood (best if you’re in the city centre) and newer entrants to the market Orderoo, Turboo and ToGo. needed shade during the heat of the summer.QF‑5, Rr. 28 Nentori, tel. +355 4 22 55 512, www.panevino.al. Open 07:30-23:30. €€€. APB PASTARIA Fast pasta served in a restaurant with a strikingly simple philosophy: serve as many varieties of sauces with a choice of pastas at low prices to attract a happy crowd of young Albanians. There’s so much choice that they categories sauces by colour. With speedy and friendly service we were out in a flash, feeling very content. Also on Rr. Mustafa Matohiti and Rr. Urani Pano 9.QI‑3, Rr. Sami Frashëri, tel. +355 69 379 43 43, www.pastaria.al. Open 11:0023:00. €. APBS

KOSOVAN RESTAURANT GJAKOVA Named after the Kosovar city, Gjakova is a meat-lovers haven. Always buzzing with locals and foreigners and run by a team of friendly staff from Kosovo serving absolutely magnificent grilled meat dishes from the region, their ability to go off-menu for those living a plant-based life or with other dietary requirements make it a favourite. The menu here is like a short novel. On a budget? Meatballs, side and an ice-cold Peja beer will satisfy your tastebuds and wallet. Want to splurge? Beef florentine or tomahawk provide a salivating steak experience. Their fasule beans are the best in town, too.QI‑2, Rr. Emin Duraku, tel. +355 69 255 71 95, www.gjakovadelivery.al. Open 09:0024:00. €. PTB

MIDDLE EASTERN ARABESQUE Middle-Eastern food is the latest culinary trend to hit Tirana, with the standout being this central restaurant serving delicious Syrian specialities. With limited tables, it can get busy here at lunchtimes. Besides the baba ganoush smoked eggplant appetiser, falafel, hummus and kibbeh fried meatballs, don’t miss the kunafa dessert - a sinful concoction of stringy hot cheese and syrup.QE‑3, Rr. Kavajes, tel. +355 67 203 17 33. Open 11:00-23:00. €€. AB 2022

Where to Eat LAGUNA There’s always a queue for the great-value and tasty pizza slices and ice cream served from this small kiosk at the main crossroads in town. You should be in it too.QG‑4, Blv. Bajram Curri, tel. +355 69 391 00 04. Open 11:00-24:00. €. NW PAVAROTTI When an Italian tells you that a particular place has the best Neapolitan pizza in town, you tend to listen. Pavarotti’s menu is jam-packed with both traditional and modern wood-fired pizzas and calzones, alongside a few salads. They also have the best children’s play area with attendants and even cameras to ensure that, no matter where you sit, you’ll be able to keep an eye out. Also offering high chairs for the little ones, this is a particular family favourite for Tirana.QRr. Shyqyri Brari, tel. +355 4 430 11 11, www.pavarottipizzeria. com. Open 07:30-23:50. €€. PBL PROPER PIZZA Hugely popular with the 20-something crowd, this place isn’t called Proper Pizza for nothing. Choose from a baffling array of pizzas from the traditional to the more imaginative, some of them creatively decorated with strange crop-circle patterns, and all of them perfect for snacking on the premises or eating elsewhere.QI‑3, Rr. Gjin Bue Shpata, tel. +355 69 777 88 88, www.properpizza.al. Open 10:00-24:00. €€. P

QOFTA PIZZA Because it’s everywhere, locating good pizza in Tirana is like finding a needle in a haystack. The combination of proper flour, fresh ingredients and real pizza ovens in Tirana guarantees that the pizzas are often just as good as those across the Adriatic. GOLOSA Golosa means ‘gluttonous’ in Italian and you’re sure to feel that way with your fix of genuine wood-fired pizza. Follow the smell permeating through the shopping centre and enjoy the casual and relaxed vibe, and be prepared to roll out with a full belly because you won’t be able to stop ordering.QD‑4, Rr. e Barrikadave, Galeria shopping centre, tel. +355 69 618 58 00, www.ringtravel.al. Open 11:00-23:00. €€. GRANDE ROMA A contender for some of the top pizza in Tirana, Grande Roma dishes up all your Italian favourites in a cosy environment across all seasons. The ham, truffle and cream cheese is elegantly sumptuous, whilst their risottos are dainty but filling and flavourful. With a typical trattoria vibe, the atmosphere is casual yet comfortable and their delivery service is fast and reliable. It can be busy at peak traffic times.QH‑5, Rr. Themistokli Gërmenji, tel. +355 68 871 11 17. Open 10:00-24:00. €€. AP B 34 Tirana In Your Pocket

Known more widely as kofta in other parts of the world, the Albanian qofta is a simple, sausage-like dish made from ground beef that’s cooked on an open flame and served with a wide variety of salads, sauces and fresh white bread. Popular with the more working class residents of Tirana, qofta restaurants are hard to find in the city centre. They often appear on your table in a matter of minutes, making them an excellent snack when on the run. ZGARA KORÇARE LIQENI This is our personal favourite qofta meatballs place in the capital, near the lake. As well as their magnificent Korçastyle qofta served with tzatziki and hot bread, this basic but brilliant restaurant cooks a variety of other meat dishes with accompanying cold Korça beer and soft drinks. The wooden tables outside provide a great place to watch the madness of the city below. Their other Zgara can be found on Rr. Luigj Gurakuqi, near the Pazar i Ri market.QE‑5, Rr. Sami Frashëri, tel. +355 69 353 28 03. Open 11:00-24:00. €€. PTB

KIDS’ PLAY AREAS An interesting phenomenon in Tirana is the existence of child play areas in bars, restaurants and cafés. Ranging in size, these can be found all across town, both indoors and out. So don’t be alarmed if you hear Albanian kids say they’re having their birthday party at a bar - they’re having innocent fun, not belly button shots.

Where to Eat DRINK UJË, NOT AQUA Order mineral water with your meal, and chances are that you’ll get sparkling water in a glass bottle that was shipped from Italy, France or even further away – usually at a high price for both the environment and your wallet. All this while Albania has excellent and abundant mineral water, and many good brands such as Selita and Glina. Join the revolution and ask your waiter for a local brand instead of imported mineral water, so that restaurants realise we patrons want to have the choice. The Albanian economy needs all the support it can get, and this helps in a small, bubbly way.

SEAFOOD Barely 30 minutes from the Adriatic, it shouldn’t come as a great surprise to learn that Tirana features some truly outstanding seafood restaurants. Find a few scattered around the city and a tight huddle of them stretched along bvd. Gjergj Fishta between Rr. Ibrahim Rugova and Rr. Sami Frashëri. DETI JON Deti Jon (Ionian Sea) is a simple affair with a fisherman’s cabin feel. In the time-honoured seaside tradition, it’s possible to choose exactly what you’d like before they cook it, so whatever catch is on the menu, it’s guaranteed to be fresh and delicious.QI‑4, Rr. Ismail Qemali 8, tel. +355 69 203 20 15. Open 11:30-23:00. €€€. APG FISHOP At Fishop you’re welcomed by a fantastic display of today’s catch, laid out on a bed of ice, so it’s simply a matter of pointing out your choice and asking what the chefs recommend to do with it. Be sure to book ahead, as both Fishop outlets on this street are often packed. For fast fish, visit their excellent fish burger joint at the Pazar i Ri market. QH‑6, Rr. Qemal Guranjaku, tel. +355 4 560 90 64. Open 10:00-23:30. €€€. AP LA CLOCHE Seafood is ubiquitous in Tirana, but few places serve it up with the level of artistic flair as this newcomer to the culinary scene. Although the dining area is somewhat clinical in its decor and lighting, the food will make it all worthwhile. The chef is born-and-raised Italian residing in Tirana, aiming to introduce more modern Italian flavours. A quick chat with him and you’ll understand everything is created with love and enthusiasm.QE‑3, Rr. e Bogdanëve 52, tel. +355 69 573 57 39. Open 12:30-22:00. €€€. AP LA VITA È BELLA By most accounts one of the best seafood restaurants in the capital due to an uncompromising combination of good service, good food and good value for money. Set in a lovely white villa with a spacious garden, the menu here is fairly diverse, and it’s worth asking for advice as to what’s hot tirana.inyourpocket.com

before plunging in.QH‑5, Rr. Jul Variboba 21, tel. +355 69 407 44 49, www.lavitaebella.al. Open 12:00-24:00. $$$. APGB LENTI’S FISH Seafood is best enjoyed with a water view, though with Tirana being set inland you might be willing to settle for less. No need! Lenti’s Fish, overlooking the Dry Lake (which is not dry at all), offers beautiful scenery and dishes up the best fish cakes in town. Their selection of fresh seafood is amazing - they even have scallops. A bit out of town, the bus to the TEG mall runs nearby, and it’s well worth the trek. QRr. Hamdi Garunja, Liqeni Thate, tel. +355 68 539 83 70. Open 12:00-11:00. €€. APB PIREU FISH An upmarket seafood restaurant in a striking designer building covered with foliage, and with a pleasant, spacious interior. The catch of the day is displayed by the door, though the menu has other delicacies such as seafood pasta, shellfish and lobster.QH‑6, Rr. Qemal Guranjaku 12, tel. +355 68 404 05 06. Open 12:00-23:30. €€. APB

STEAK EL GAUCHO Some venues offer Argentinian meats, but there is only one that is truly dedicated to the cuisine. Instantly becoming a hit favourite amongst the expat crowd, this is a pricey alternative to the Albanian zgares that are ubiquitous around town. The degustation menu is surprisingly good value with empanadas and steaks being the highlights. We were disappointed by their pastas, which looked and tasted like what you slop together with leftovers when feeling lazy.QH‑2, Rr. Mustafa Qosja, tel. +355 69 609 88 88. Open 11:0024:00. €€. APBS MANGIAFUOCO There are a few steakhouses dotted around town, with most highlighting their tomahawk or beef florentine, but for eye fillet lovers there’s one star that shines brighter than the others. At Mangiafuoco you are spoilt for choice on sauces and steak accompaniments. The use of herbs and spices here make even a normally boring grilled chicken fillet extra delicious. Enjoy dining whilst seated in lush and plush dining chairs and the kind of service you’d expect for the price. QH‑4, Rr. Pjeter Bogdani, tel. +355 69 642 20 36. Open 11:00-24:00. €€€. APB PAGUS There are so many other things on the menu at Pagus apart from the excellent Black Angus steak that it could also just about equally qualify as a full Italian restaurant. Smack bang in the centre of the action, if you don’t particularly like steak, the burgers here are pretty special and the pasta dishes also come highly recommended. Grown ups with children might like to know that they can slice and throw a steak inside a sandwich if the kids are particularly fussy.QI‑4, Rr. Perlat Rexhepi, tel. +355 69 203 04 09. Open 12:00-24:30. €€. APB 2022

Where to Eat SUSHI

TURKISH

SOSUSHI SoSushi has been around since before sushi became a trend in Tirana. Intimate in size and located below ground level, you’ll need to be on the lookout - but once inside be transported into a tranquil bamboo paradise. Enjoy Japanese delicacies such as sushi, sashimi and tempura without the need to offer any arms or legs as payment. Delivery is available to literally wherever you are, be it home, at a bar or even a park.QH‑3, Rr. Brigada e VIII, tel. +355 67 413 25 82. Open 12:00-23:30; closed Mon. €€€.

LEZET “Same same, but different” is a phrase that every well-seasoned traveller knows and also perfectly describes each Balkan country’s take on regional cuisine. You could be easily tricked into believing that Albanian and Turkish food are the same. Simply compare İçli Köfte with qofte and know there’s a difference. Interestingly, the same can be said about the languages - lezet in Albanian means pleasurable, whereas lezzet in Turkish means flavour. Pure genius!QF‑5, Rr. Murat Toptani, Kalaja e Tiranes, tel. +355 69 529 65 97. Open 07:30-24:00. €. APB

VILA YAMATO With an entrance between minimalist curving concrete walls that would not be out of place in Tokyo, Vila Yamato is a spacious sushi restaurant with both atmosphere and good taste, though the prices are above average and service can be slow. The menu is impressive though with all the regular options and desserts like matcha cheesecake. Yamato is also found wrapping things in rice on Rruga Ibrahim Rugova.QG‑5, Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II 13, tel. +355 69 400 40 01. Open 12:00-24:00. €€€. APB

TEX-MEX SERENDIPITY There’s nothing serendipitous about Serendipity at all, with the finger food to the full-blown Mexican dishes being about as authentic as they can when you consider this is Tirana and not Tijuana. With a very relaxed vibe, this is the kind of restaurant you may drop in to for a snack at dinner time, but end up falling into bed six hours later full of tequila and burritos. QI‑4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova 26/1, tel. +355 68 902 8029. Open 09:00-24:00. €€€. AP X U SERENDIVILLE A villa near the Dinamo sports fields has been converted into a Tex-Mex ranch, with small tables crammed with happy chicas and chicos inside, and a large terrace. The menu is massive - try the taco loco dish with beef, or the top-notch fajitas served on a sizzling plate. The enormous frozen margaritas are excellent thirst-quenchers. Service can be slow as they do get busy, but it’s always with a smile. QK‑2, Rr. Liman Kaba 30, tel. +355 68 609 33 33, www. serendiville.business.site. Open 11:30-23:30. €€. PB SPAGHETTI WESTERN Getting your fix of Tex-Mex food is surprisingly easy in Tirana with a number of options, but the best value and selection is found at Spaghetti Western. Tacos are only about 250 lek, as are draft beers. Other menu highlights include American favourites like burgers, chicken fried steak and BBQ pork ribs. The saloon style decor is very on theme and the waitstaff are dressed to match the style, cowboy hats and all.QH‑4, Rr. Pjeter Bogdani 13, tel. +355 68 207 20 00, www.spaghettiwestern.business.site. Open 12:0022:45. €€€. APB 36 Tirana In Your Pocket

SOFRA TURKE An oasis of calm in an otherwise chaotic street, this slightly upmarket restaurant specialises in original kuzhina turke as opposed to the Albanian-tinged look-alike food available in most restaurants in Tirana. Complete with pictures of old Istanbul and plenty of carpets on the walls, the staff speak enough English to take diners through the menu. Surplus to the cavalcade of delicious grilled meat options is a range of classic sticky Turkish baklava desserts.QF‑2, Rr. Kavajës 170, tel. +355 4 2 22 68 18, www.sofraturke. wordpress.com. Open 08:00-23:00. €€. APB

VEGETARIAN See also our ‘healthy food’ café reviews. VEGGIES The best vegetarian and vegan option in town, Veggies has an extensive menu of veg sushi, ramen, portobello burger, salad bowls, fresh juices, smoothies, desserts and more. There’s a nice terrace too.QI‑4, Rr. Nikolla Tupe 15, tel. +355 69 207 77 26, www.veggiestirana.com. Open 08:00-23:00; closed Sun. €€. APB

Kaplan Pasha’s Tomb

Feature, feature, feature

Farm to Table Agrotourism and the Albanian food revolution Have you ever wondered what life was like just a hundred odd years ago, before mass industry farming was a thing? When people headed out to the fields to source their food, rather than huge supermarkets? Back to the times when people milked the cow and churned the butter, and every step of the process was conducted with the utmost love, care and respect for the sustenance the food provided. Nowadays many yearn for this ‘olden-time’ experience, but not everywhere has this way of life fallen outside the norm. Dotted far and wide across every corner of the country, Albanian families are turning their household farms into the perfect place for tourists to unwind and experience a slower pace of life, one almost forgotten by those who live the daily grind in the big cities. The phenomenon dubbed ‘agrotourism’ is certainly a major highlight of any trip to the Land of the Eagle. During the reign of communist dictator Enver Hoxha, an emphasis was placed on the state’s self-sufficiency. A rather paranoid man, as evident from the ubiquitous bunkers, Hoxha had a strong desire to ensure that his people relied on no others than their own. This meant establishing adequate food supplies and, as such, significant focus was placed on farming throughout this government’s reign - although the goal was never achieved and food was rationed due to its scarcity. With more than half the country currently employed in the agricultural sector, it is clear that this industry still plays a key role in the modern day. Its luscious lands, superfluous sunshine and rigorous rainfall all contribute to creating the perfect farming conditions. Having progressed just thirty years from this time and moving into the modern day, Albania finds itself in an interesting and unusual position. The majority of its villagers know only farming and opportunities for young people outside the sector simply don’t exist in rural areas. Populations began to dwindle and many farmers were fed up with conditions. Gratefully, a solution has been found in the form of tourism and, thanks to many years of hard work and dedication, Albania is rapidly cementing itself

as the prime location to experience traditional, slow food direct from farm to table in an authentic village setting. Seeing the success of the Slow Food Movement across the world, many Albanian entrepreneurs understood the opportunities that these small, family owned and operated farmhouses could provide. What the world was calling a ‘movement’ was simply a lifestyle for the local people and one that, in the name of besa, the Albanian people are more than happy to share. It’s important to note that most of these agrotourism venues are also these families’ homes! Following significant lobbying, the government finally got on board and began the “100 Villages” project. Agricultural students from Tirana’s universities were sent to help rural farmers understand the current import/export market, thus ensuring that they planted the right crops to guarantee profit. Students were also tasked with helping farmers understand the numerous government grants available and how to apply online to receive them. However, the biggest element to this project was the marketing and promotion of 100 small villages across Albania that were perfect locations to highlight agrotourism, thus creating a secondary industry separate from simple farming that may appeal to the younger populations. One doesn’t need to travel too far to see the goat roasting on the spit, the organic homemade cheeses for sale or smell the fli (Albanian flatbread) roasting over the fire, as many agroturism venues surround the capital city of Tirana. Although, should you find yourself wandering about the country, you’ll notice these farm-to-table offerings are everywhere, each one unique in its offerings. For some of the best recommendations around the country, check out page 28. Certainly visiting one of these agrotourism is a must-do for any trip to Albania! Ju bëftë mirë! By Alexandra Lewis For more information on agrotourism in Albania, download the AgroTimeAL app which lists dozens of rural farms, guesthouses and tour options, complete with photos, interactive maps and contact details. 2022

Cafés CLASSIC CAFÉS ARDI BAKERY Anyone walking around the Komuna e Parisit neighbourhood would be hard pressed not to notice the name ‘Ardi’ in numerous locations; Ardi Bakery, Ardi Cafe, Ardi Factory. What started as a simple bread shop is now a cult favourite in the area. The first in Tirana to modernise the simple sandwich, here you can break away from typical fillings and enjoy a honey mustard chicken or tuna salad baguette, or simply enjoy a perfectly roasted coffee.QJ‑2, Rr. Tish Dahia 10. Open 08:00-22:00.

Coffee in a wedding cake

Tirana’s café scene is bigger and better than it ever was before. Just remember to be very precise to specify you want coffee in your cappuccino.

BOOK CAFÉS EPËR7SHME This combined second-hand book and café is an excellent find. Best bring your own book and walk past the curious selection of Albanian-langauge titles to find a gorgeous sheltered garden around the back which is the best place to sit and soak up the atmosphere and caffeine. They stopped serving hot meals unfortunately - drinks only for the moment.QG‑5, Rr. Jul Variboba 1, tel. +355 69 687 3284. Open 07:00-23:00. €. APB MUSIC BOOKS EATERY Set in a small cul-de-sac and boasting a huge outdoor terrace area, during the day Music Books Eatery is the perfect place to wander in and find a quiet spot to read, study or work. At night, things get a bit rowdier with a range of events including art exhibitions, jazz concerts and even sip-and-paint nights. A particular favourite with the expat crowd, every so often you’ll catch a meet-up here on a Friday night. QRr. Ilo Mitkë Qafzezi 2, tel. +355 69 373 70 08, www.musicbookseatery.com. Open 08:00-23:00; Sun 09:00-23:00. €€. PB

PRICE GUIDE For cafes that serve food, we’re indicated the average price of a main course dish, without drinks. € Under 500 lek

€€€ Over 1,000 lek

€€ 500 - 1,000 lek 38 Tirana In Your Pocket

BARDHË E ZI Something of a Tirana institution, the inappropriately named Bardhë e Zi (Black and White) is anything but lacking in colour. Located along one of the busiest streets in the blloku, the mostly 20-something crowd that choose to spend time here are a friendly bunch indeed. Serving great coffee alongside a range of other drinks and snacks, the modern interior is a good place to escape the madness outside, or, if you prefer to imbibe your caffeine in a less peaceful environment, the terrace is a fine location to indulge in a little urban anthropology.QH‑3, Rr. Sami Frashëri, tel. +355 4 222 5547. Open 24hrs. €€. APB CAFÉ BOTANICA Lush green foliage fills the interior and terrace of this buzzing bistro café below the arches of the Palace of Culture. Arrive early for a relaxed breakfast or lunch as you peoplewatch the pedestrians on the main square, drop by later in the day for a wide range of dinner options, cocktails and perhaps a DJ-driven party.QSheshi Skënderbej, tel. +355 69 463 80 00. Open 07:00-24:00. €. APXBE COFFEE-LAB The only cafe in Tirana to roast their own coffee - and these coffee-lovers do it well and are happy to explain the process to visitors. The large space with a wall of windows is infused with the smell of roasting, and offers cakes and pastries besides the coffee and hot drinks.QI‑4, Rr. Nikolla Tupe, tel. +44 75771 96870. Open 07:30-23:00. NPT KEVIN Straddling that old Tirana chestnut between café and bar, Kevin’s wood-panelled interior is a bit too much for some, although it’s the best place in the area around the Ottoman-era Tanners’ Bridge and has a great outdoor terrace. If you drop by during the evening be prepared for the occasional event, which could be anything from a poetry reading to a relaxed performance of classical music.QF‑5/6, Rr. George W. Bush, tel. +355 68 202 2505, www.kevin-bar. business.site. Open 07:00-23:00. PXB KITCHEN BAR With impeccable views of the lake, you can easily waste a few hours in the sunshine here, people and duck watching whilst you sip on your coffee, beer or wine and pound

Cafés down a pizza. Bike racks and a play area make this a great option for families, and it’s still peaceful enough to function as a quiet spot to work online. Inside find a makeshift Tirana museum, with old photos of the city and a shrine dedicated to KF Tirona, the local klubi i futbollit.QUnaze e Re, Liqeni Artificial, tel. +355 67 459 1346, www.kitchenbar.al. Open 08:00-1:00AM. €. NP B KOMETA CAFÉ & MORE Whether you’re in the mood for a coffee, cocktail, or can’t satisfy your hunger, Kometa’s got you covered. It’s no wonder this place has established itself as the neighbourhood ‘go-to’ spot for the Komuna e Parisit district. Staff appreciate their customers here with attentive service and the kind of energy many tourists would expect. The plants on the walls and ceiling give you a greater sense of the latter in the term ‘concrete jungle’. QRr. Skender Luarasi 2, tel. +355 69 881 71 59, www. kometa-cafeandmore.business.site. Open 07:0023:00. €. PB E KOMITETI KAFE MUZEUM Popular with wide-eyed tourists, Komiteti combines a café with a museum of bits and bobs from decades past - and manages to pull it off very nicely indeed. Set in the shadow of the Galeria ETC mall, the distinction between a place for a quick cup of coffee and an evening of heavy drinking is so blurred that it’s impossible to define what it is - beyond the fact that if you’re in town you really should drop by.QG‑5, Rr.Gjon Pali II, tel. +355 67 691 35 52. Open 7:00-24:00. €€. PB LA PORTEÑA A haven of excellent coffee, snacks and great service, La Porteña (a term referring to someone from Buenos Aires) is run by an Albanian-Argentinian couple who left the cruise industry to start their dream café. Hang out on the terrace or retreat to the mezzanine floor for some quiet time with your drink and a slice of banana bread or coconut tart with dulce de leche. Peckish customers should try the hearty Argentinian empanadas with corn and cheese or beef. Find it hidden in the side street.QH‑5, Rr. Themistokli Gërmenji, tel. +355 67 740 06 69. Open 07:00-21:30; Sat 08:00-21:00; Sun 08:0015:00. €. NP U B LAVEEN Attracting much of the Blloku’s professional crowd, you’ll find this unassuming cafe and restaurant busy morning, noon and night. Enjoy some of the best-brewed coffee in town whilst observing the locals busy with meetings and business deals - brush shoulders with top entrepreneurs, journalists and maybe even a politician or two. The menu features classic cafe favourites and a wide range of cocktails, from classics to specialities. At night, bring your friends and enjoy cocktail pitchers at a great price.QRr. Ismail Qemali, tel. +355 69 647 2713. Open 07:00-23:45. €€. tirana.inyourpocket.com

SPEAK SHQIP: CAFÉ TALK May I have a... - A mund të kem një... espresso - kafe ekspres espresso with milk - makiato turkish coffee - kafe turke cappuccino - kapucino me kafe filter coffee - Americano tea - caj sugar - sheker spoon - luge cigarettes - cigare matches - shkrepse ashtray - tavell QUO VADIS Great location, dangerous espresso. Quo Vadis has staying power, a quality not to be underestimated in a world where cafés come and go in the blink of an eye. Frequented by a mostly young crowd who don’t seem at all bothered about such things as needing a job.QH‑4, Rr. Ismail Qemali 25, tel. +355 4 226 65 90. Open 07:30-00:30. APB STEPHEN CENTER CAFÉ Opened in 1994 by evangelical missionaries who certainly know how to run a good café, this is one of Tirana’s best, a cosmopolitan meeting place for locals and foreigners alike, seving a wide variety of international cuisine. There’s a pleasant terrace to gorge on bottomless coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice and eggs benedict for breakfast while you watch the police endlessly remove badly parked cars from the traffic circle.QE‑5/6, Rr. Hoxha Tahsim 1, tel. +355 4 223 47 48, www.stephencenter.com. Open 07:30-23:00; closed Sun. €. APGTB TEA ROOM Like a calm little corner of England in Albania, the Tea Room is a cosy café decorated with flowery patterns and with windows overlooking the Lana river. You can try various tea leaf and herbal infusions - try the delicious Albanian ironwort mountain tea, caj mali - as well as good local wines and sweet cakes.QG‑3, Blv. Gjergj Fishta, tel. +355 68 404 70 27. Open 07:00-22:30. €. GB URBAN ROOTS With vast amounts of space indoors and out, it’s no wonder that Urban Roots is a well-known event space, hosting trivia nights and expat meetups amongst other things. During the day it’s more of a hotspot for the local highschool students and young professionals - they also offer private meeting rooms for those requiring office space. At night attracts a younger expat crowd. Munch on a sandwich or pizza to satisfy your urban hunger.QI/J‑4, Rr. Lidhja e Prizrenit 3, tel. +355 69 461 08 18. Open 07:3023:30. PBE 2022

Cafés COFFEE, BUT WITH COFFEE Famous for its café culture, Tirana is one of the best cities in Europe for roasted bean lovers. Locals enjoy sitting for three hours after placing only one initial order - usually a kafe (shot of espresso) or makiato (espresso with a dash of milk). Those looking for filtered coffee will find themselves out of luck, but can order an ‘Americano’ for the closest local substitute. If you’re a cappuccino lover, beware! You must specify that you want it with coffee - kapucino me kafe - otherwise expect to receive a rather odd-tasting cinnamonflavoured, powder-based drink (kapucino me bustine) usually consumed by children.

COFFEE SHOPS LE BON Sprinkled around several locations in town, the Le Bon bakery and pastry shops bring modern European café style to Tirana. Inside, there’s a real bustling, cosmopolitan vibe, and the sandwiches and pastries are some of the tastiest in town. Le Bon also manufactures stunning cakes, from cartoon-themed creations for the kids to Jack Daniels-laced confectionary for the adults - all available from their online shop as well. The café on Rruga Boçari by the lake is the perfect place to stock up your picnic basket. QRr. Dritan Hoxha, tel. +355 672 00 06 70, www.lebon. al. Open 06:30-22:30. €. APGTB MON CHÉRI Speciality coffees, hot cocoa, smoothies, cakes snacks and much more, in an chain of coffee shops dotted all over the city. The busy outlet on Sheshi Wilson square has a takeaway window supplying coffee around the clock for the truly desperate.QI‑3, Rr. Sami Frashëri, tel. +355 68 203 09 55, www.moncheri.al. Open 07:00-22:30. €. MULLIRI I VJETËR Impossible to miss, Mulliri cafes can be found all over Tirana, with 18 shops now offering a spot to relax with a book, get some work done, or meet friends while enjoying a speciality coffee, cookie or light meal. At this strategic Blloku street corner, Mulliri Gourmet is the flagship shop, with the largest selection of food and drinks. Their pleasant large terrace is an important fixture on the Blloku seeand-be-seen circuit.QH‑4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova, tel. +355 69 706 63 70, www.mullirivjeter.al. Open 09:00-23:00. €€. APB SOPHIE CAFFE Another popular chain of coffee shops with cosy corners to enjoy a drink, sandwich, pasta dish, cookie or cake. In summer, head to their their Bohemian Sophie Palasë cafe in Palase, on the southern coast.QH‑5, Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II, tel. +355 69 701 47 88, www.sophiecaffe.com. Open 07:00-23:00. €. APB 40 Tirana In Your Pocket

HEALTHY FOOD CAFÉS FIT FOOD Overlooking busy Sheshi Wilson square, this tiny shop has various freshly pressed juice combinations on offer, as well as healthy snack or meal options.QI‑3, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri 21, tel. +355 68 559 61 61. Open 07:00-21:00; closed Sun. €€. AP HAPPY BELLY A few steps down from the street, the tiny Happy Belly is an easily missed yet unmissable café serving fresh vegetarian and vegan juices, smoothies and Saturday brunches - all gorgeously presented by the friendly hostess from behind a market stand full of fruit and veg. QH‑4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova, tel. +355 69 54 50 082. Open 08:30-20:30. €€. MIA ORGANIC CAFÉ Hidden at the rear of a charming organic food supermarket - great for local, healthy souvenirs - the Organic Café offers a buffet-style lunch with various vegetarian and other choices to point at, naturally made with organic ingredients. There’s good fruit juice, smoothies and coffee too.QH‑3, Rr. Ismail Qemali, tel. +355 69 707 59 54, www.mia.al. Open 08:00-21:00. €. AP G

Exchange rates: €1=121 lek, $1=115 lek

LUNCH NYT BAGELS This small New York-style deli specialises in freshly-made bagels that are as good as you’re going to get in this part of the world. They come with a choice of bread, toppings and fillings such as cream cheese and salmon, customised as you wish and assembled before you eyes. There’s coffee and a few other snacks as well, plus a tiny little outside seating area. Find it in the side street halfway up Rr. Gërmenji.QH‑5/6, Rr. Themistokli Gërmenji, tel. +355 69 540 75 83. Open 07:30-19:00. €. PB THE PLACE A stylish little cafe hidden down the side of the Kika 2 complex, closing early but offering a truly excellent and nicely presented 800 lek lunch, which includes soup, salad and main course. Beyond lunch, there’s good coffee, cakes and other nibbles for inside or on the small terrace.QJ‑2, Rr. Tish Dahia 10, Kompleksi Kika 2, tel. +355 68 204 00 82. Open 09:00-17:00; Sat 08:00-16:00; closed Sun. €€. NP B

Cafés EVENT CAFÉ DESTIL CREATIVE HUB A completely unique concept in Tirana, for creative types there is no other place like Destil (named after the 1920s Dutch art movement, De Stijl). Providing exhibition space for up-and-coming artists, musicians, photographers and even historians wanting to present their topic in an interesting way, the events held here are widely varied. One of the few true LGBTQ+ venues in town, it is also the only cafe with a dedicated co-working space. The coffee and cocktails taste good too!QBlv. Zogu I, tel. +355 69 756 5237, www.destil. al. Open 07:00-23:00. €. PB

SWEET CAFÉS Cake shops, pâtisseries and other cafés that cater to your sweet tooth. BIG SCOOP Ice cream from Kosovo? Why not - this chain of brightly lit cafés was founded in Pristina by some experienced returnees from London, and is expanding across the Balkans with its delicious ice cream, waffles, crepes, brownies, pancakes and more - all laden with sweet toppings. Thankfully, there are a few savoury options too. Conveniently set near the lake, but also scooping at the Delijorgji complex along Bulevardi Gjergj Fishta.QK‑4, Rr. Sami Frashëri, tel. +383 49 805 530, www.bigscoop.menu. Open 07:0023:00. €€. PB CIOCCOLATITALIANI Modern, bright and always busy, Cioccolatitaliani’s menu stretches well beyond crêpes, with a veritable smorgasbord of tooth-destroying treats on offer, among them waffles and many concoctions with chocolate.QH/1‑4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova, tel. +355 4 431 9591, www. cioccolatitaliani.it. Open 07:00-24:00. €€. AP D’ANGELO Another Blloku favourite, this place offers the usual roll call of inventive coffee concoctions plus a range of frozen yoghurts, bubble tea, smoothies and freshly squeezed fruit juices which all taste great during the summer meltdown period. To compliment the caffeine, D’Angelo also dabbles in desserts, among them an irresistible and not expensive chocolate fondue for sharing with friends. Also in four other Tirana locations.QRr. Abdyl Frashëri, tel. +355 69 97 79 669, www. dangelo.al. Open 08:00-24:00. €. APB DUDONUTS Whilst Albania has petulla, which are more savoury, there’s only one place in town that offers real donuts as dessert. Some offerings are mouth-watering, such as the Oreo Moment or Dulce de Leche - others such as peach and pomegranate sound wonderful, but we think seeds atop a do42 Tirana In Your Pocket

nut are simply not practical. Originating from the Blloku, DuDonuts has also opened in the TEG mall and Sarande, and it seems reasonable to assume this will be Albania’s Krispy Kreme in no time.QRr. Perlat Rexhepi, tel. +355 69 700 88 22. Open 07:00-21:00. €. P EGE BAKLLAVA Albanians certainly are not known for their sweet tooth, so whilst there are usually three or four Italian desserts on restaurant menus, the selection can get boring after a while. Bakllava is a dessert of cultural significance across the Balkans and the best place to try this sweet-butsavoury sugary treat is at Ege. A large variety of different flavours is available, as well as other pastry treats, but we think the pistacchio simply is the best.QRr. Kavajes, tel. +355 69 696 97 36, www.egebakllava.al. Open 09:0021:00. €€€. PG PÂTISSERIE FRANÇAISE Opened way back in 1999 by Marie-Thérèse Marchal and an exceedingly popular place, there are many reasons to visit this tiny corner of France, perhaps the most important being the authenticity of the baked goods on sale - there’s nothing to beat the baguettes on offer here. Choose to take everything away in a bag to much on later or relax inside with a decent cup of coffee and something sweet and sticky.QG‑4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova 1, tel. +355 68 53 57 678, www.patisseriefrancaise.al. Open 09:00-22:00. €€. AP

BALKAN BOOKS: FREE A truly enchanting memoir of a young girl witnessing the last gasp of Communism in Albania, and the freshly freed country’s first wobbly steps into a capitalist future. Lea Ypi was raised in a family with ‘a biography’ or political background, and they needed to speak in code to prevent her inadvertently raising suspicion outside the home. Ypi descibers her careless pioneer years and her disillusionment with the ideology that promised so much to Albania’s children, yet disappeared so fast, only to be replaced with a chaotic and sometimes dangerous new world. You’ll never look at a Coke can the same way after reading this fascinating book. Free: Coming of Age at the End of History, by Lea Ypi, 2021, Penguin www.penguin.co.uk. Available at Adrion International Books in Tirana.

Nightlife

Tirana street art

Despite the closure of clubs and many bars due to the pandemic, Tirana’s nightlife is back on track this summer, offering an awful lot of variety within easy walking distance. For many, the fun still starts with the lively and traditional xhiro (mass evening stroll), and ends more often than not somewhere in the bustling Blloku area in the early hours of the morning. Tirana has seen a gradual adoption of hipster culture in recent years, and their taste for quality and craft beers is a welcome addition to a scene that for long has been dominated by the botoxed-up Fashion TV crowd with their sweet pink drinks. Note that Albanians still prefer sipping coffee to serious drinking, with foreigners often being the only ones knocking back the hard stuff.

BARS CHARL’S BISTRO An eclectic and fashionable 30-something crowd populates this fantastic lounge bar specialising in Western hits from the ‘60s to the ‘80s. The somewhat oddly spelt venue has admirably been going for almost two decades, hosting live music acts as well as party events on weekend evenings, and Latin dancing on Wednesdays. The cocktail bar in the lush small garden spits out great drinks all week, plus there’s a good menu of food available to soak up the excess alcohol.QH‑4, Rr. Pjetër Bogdani 36, tel. +355 69 831 65 84, www.charlsbistro.al. Open 07:30-04:00AM; Sat 08:00-03:00. €€. NPGBE CHEERS IRISH PUB Pandering to every popular culture stereotype imaginable, this perfectly adequate place to drink and be merry features an admirable stockade of German beer behind the bar, burgers and other pub food on the menu, and is more often than not overflowing with customers during the evening. The stage at the back regularly hosts DJs and live music - on our recent visit a Pink Floyd cover band trying to remember when they were young.QH‑3, Rr. Pjetër tirana.inyourpocket.com

SYMBOL KEY P Air-conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

E Live music

G Non-smoking

B Outside seating

Bogdani 39/1, tel. +355 67 203 60 11. Open 07:00-02:00. APGBE HEMINGWAY Operating along the lines of a Hemingway-Cuba theme but throwing in a lot of other cultural references along the way, find chairs and suitcases stuck to the walls and a crowd of drinkers frequenting this bar just northwest of the city centre. Friday evenings herald a weekly live music event which tends to attract big crowds. Hemingway also organises the amazing 1920s-themed Jazz train trip to Shkodra around April 30, with much dressing up and dancing.QE‑3, Rr. Kont Urani 2, tel. +355 69 208 81 21, www.hemingway.al. Open 05:00-1:00; Fri 06:00-1:00; Sat 07:00-1:00; closed Sun. GBE ILLYRIAN SALOON A favoured location for the rocker crowd in Tirana, you’ll often find live music at weekends featuring somewhat famous local acts, with no cover charge. Cheap drinks are the aim of the game here and there is a sense of camaraderie amongst patrons, as long as you fit the vibe. Set below street level, the saloon atmosphere is certainly evident from the wooden features, flowing whiskeys and of course the Wild Wild West-style doors, made for a dramatic entrance.QI‑4, Rr. Perlat Rexhepi, tel. +355 69 211 6800. Open 16:00-2:00. APBE 2022

Nightlife STRANGER DANGER As friendly as Albanians are, it’s best not to approach people whilst in bars or restaurants. Mingling in public with strangers is generally frowned upon and simply talking to people you don’t know may find you in hot water - and even asked to leave! IRONBRUSH The hottest place in town for the alternative crowd, this diverse and punky pub has walls adorned with musical instruments, games to play, and even a pool table. The owner is one of the most famous tattoo artists in town and local motorcycle enthusiasts regularly frequent. Cheap drinks are the name of the game and the outdoor courtyard is particularly popping in the summertime. The coffee isn’t too bad, either.QRr. Komuna e Parisit, Vila 2, tel. +355 67 543 10 02. Open 09:00-23:30; Sun 16:00-23:30. €. NP KINO This vintage-cinema-themed reinvention of one of the wildest venues in the centre of town has proven that a facelift doesn’t change the heart. This is still one of the city’s biggest nightlife hotspots and parties pump ‘til the early hours, with densely packed weekends putting you in an unparalleled realm of closeness to others. Also one of the best places in town to catch a rare glimpse of someone daring to groove to the music.QRr. Pjetër Bogdani, tel. +355 69 210 57 85. Open 09:00-2:00AM. €€. AP X E MYWAY The unofficial headquarters of Tirana’s alternative crowd, MyWay in Blloku is one of the best places in town to mingle with the locals - it may be the only bar in town where it’s actually socially acceptable to talk to strangers. Drinks are cheap, the waiters are friendly and this pet-accommodating venue even has its own resident cat. Don’t let the unassuming decor or dart boards fool you - MyWay can certainly lead you to wild nights.QRr. Pjetër Bogdani 11, tel. +355 69 227 05 54. Open 08:0012:00. NP B E NOOR A cosy bar with a small terrace next to the historical Toptani Serai, serving Spritz cocktails and fine Italian food, including pasta, panini and risotto. There are occasional music-themed nights but it’s Wednesday that deserves a mention here for the aperitif night from 19:00-21:00, with unlimited finger food - within reason, dear readers - for just 100 lek.QF‑5, Rr. Abdi Toptani, tel. +355 69 700 7008, www.noor.com.al. Open 07:0023:00. €€. P NOUVELLE VAGUE This popular establishment isn’t marked by a sign, but is unmissable nevertheless due to the wild and happy colour scheme used for the furniture, walls and air ducts. 44 Tirana In Your Pocket

Hammocks dangle for the ceiling, and the bearded gentlemen behind the bar mix a great selection of shakes cocktails to a backdrop of interesting music. They also like inviting bartenders from neighbouring countries to mix it up a bit.QH‑3, Rr. Pjetër Bogdani, tel. +355 69 933 3622. Open 08:30-02:00. AP B E PEPPER LOUNGE What was once one of the most bopping nightclubs in Blloku has reinvented itself as an upscale lounge and bistro bar aimed at a more sophisticated and well-dressed crowd. Despite being a vast villa venue, it’s often still packed. Rather curiously, their specialties are pizza and sushi, with a side of cocktails. Still a place to party until the early hours, put on your nicest clothes and enjoy the DJs and other special events at weekends.QRr. Brigada VIII, tel. +355 69 849 70 81. Open 09:00-4:00AM. PXB PERLA TATTOO & BAR With an intoxicating mix of great music and craft beers, Perla is a centre for Tirana’s alternative scene. This rock bar features excellent live music nights, with jazz and blues played on Thursdays and occasional open mic nights for punters to show their talents. Should you be in the mood for a tattoo, they can arrange this for you as well.QG‑3, Rr. Reshit Çollaku 6, tel. +355 69 694 24 31. Open 11:0023:00; Sat, Sun 24hrs. €. NPGBE RADIO BAR Tirana’s alternative youth can often be found hanging out at Radio Bar, where old radio station logos, black and white photographs of bygone film stars, tartan ducts and antique radio sets decorate the front room. Towards the back, the semi-open terrace looks less enticing but is still generally packed during the weekend evenings when DJs and live music can be expected. Find Radio slightly hidden away in the apartment building set back from the street. QH‑4, Rr. Ismail Qemali 29/1, www.radiobar.al. Open 10:00-12:00. NPGBE TIKI BAR Offering something of a castaway vibe, this two-floored beach hut of a bar complete with wooden face masks and lampshades made from seashells is about as close as it gets to a Caribbean cocktail bar in contemporary Tirana. Besides beer there’s a range of colourful mixed drinks and freshly squeezed fruit juice, and regular live music gigs. QI‑4, Rr. Perlat Rexhepi, tel. +355 68 518 0005. Open 07:00-24-00. €€. NPGBE XHEKO ROOFTOP The highlight of the Xheko Imperial Hotel, this elegant 14th-floor rooftop bar with its little pools and fountains offers grand views, a nice breeze on hot summer days, Saturday brunches, and sushi in the evening. DJs take care of the music several nights a week - reservations are recommended at weekends.QRr. Ibrahim Rugova 56, tel. +355 696 16 11 11, www.xheko-imperial.com. Open 07:0024:00. €€€. APTUBE

Nightlife BLURRED LINES Is it a bar? Is it a restaurant? No, it’s a super venue! Things can be a little unclear in Tirana’s drinking and dining establishments… the sleepy café you enjoyed on a Monday morning just might also be the hottest nightclub in town on a Thursday night.

BEER BARS BIRRARI KE TORI Down a few steps from street level, this lovely beer bar has everything you need: cold local beer, freshly grilled meat dishes, a small terrace and a friendly owner. Perfect for anything from a quick lunch or dinner to a night of revelry.QG/H‑4, Rr. Vaso Pasha, tel. +355 69 238 76 07. Open 10:00-24:00. €. NP B BRÄUHAUS A loud and cheerful German-themed brewery restaurant and pub, with unfiltered and un-pasteurised blonde, red and wheat beers made on the premises. In the best Brauhaus tradition there’s also plenty of Bavarian-style meat-heavy dishes on the menu, plus occasional live music and screenings of sporting events. A children’s play area is also provided for guzzlers with little ones in tow.QG‑4, Rr. Reshit Çollaku 38, tel. +355 68 376 96 42. Open 12:00-01:00. €€. NP G T E HOPS BAR A hopping bar offering more than 100 types of beer from bottles or on tap, together with an excellent range of pub food. Besides and insane range of Belgian brews, Albanian microbrews worth sampling here include the Dyst IPA from Tirana (which is recommended with a porcobello pulled pork burger) and the quirky Birra e Gjyshit “Grandpa’s beer” from Pogradec. Keep an eye on their social media for regular live music nights. QH‑5/6, Rr. Elbasanit 85, tel. +355 69 207 7772, www.hops-bar-tirana.business.site. Open 07:0024:00. €€. AP B E

CASINOS

ROYAL EAGLE CASINO Table games and slot machines inside the MAK hotel.QJ‑5, Sheshi Italia 2, MAK Hotel, tel. +355 4 451 88 88. Open 24hrs. €€€. APXUB

COCKTAIL BARS GINTONERIA Walk up the exterior staircase to find the excellent Gintoneria cocktail bar with its three-seater terrace overlooking the street. With dozens of gin varieties stacked behind the bar, and knowledgeable barmen who know their stuff, this is a great place to simply ask for recommendations and go with the gin flow. Beer is available as well, if you really must.QH‑4, Rr. Vaso Pasha 7, tel. +355 68 400 00 36, www.ginto.al. Open 08:00-1:00. APB JULIETTE COCKTAIL BAR Whilst it hasn’t been around for long, nowhere is as wellknown for live music as Juliette which has managed to quickly cement its position as the premier venue. All tastes and genres are covered, with events including rock shows, Latin nights and karaoke, but as they don’t heavily focus on advertising, be prepared to just wander in and see what’s going on. Weekends can get wild and see the party keep popping until the early morning hours.QRr. Pjetër Bogdani 37, tel. +355 69 578 5200. Open 11:0002:00AM. €€. NPGE MUGO Part of the Mulliri empire, this very elegant lounge bar serves everything from brunch with coffee in the morning, to burgers, sushi or exotic international dishes with classy cocktails later at night. There’s a DJ at hand on Friday and Saturday nights too.QH‑4, Rr. Pjetër Bogdani, tel. +355 69 706 63 70. Open 06:30-12:00. €€€. APXB WHISKEY Often frequented by the glitzy and the glamorous, it can be difficult to find a space here, and while reservations can be made, the staff aren’t known for their English skills. This is one of the best places in Tirana to mingle with the locals, with the front terrace hosting those who wish to be seen and the back area becoming more and more like a nightclub as the evening progresses. Despite its name, the cocktails are the feature focus here.QRr. Ibrahim Rugova, tel. +355 69 226 94 47. Open 07:00-1:00. €€. PXBE

To get in to Tirana’s casinos you’ll need to be over 18 and to have some form of ID; smart casual dress is fine. GRAND CASINO Promising the ‘Next Level’ of gambling entertainment, the Grand offers tables for blackjack, poker, baccarat and roulette and some 300 machines - accompanied by fine dining and good cocktails.QF‑5, Rr. Abdi Toptani, Maritim Plaza, tel. +355 4 244 4440, www. grandcasinotirana.com. Open 24hrs. €€€. AP X E tirana.inyourpocket.com

Tanners’ Bridge

2022

Nightlife GAMES BARS

IRISH PUBS

REELS GAMING CLUB A spacious Blloku lounge bar with a large terrace full of elegant young people, a good selection of food, live music on Wednesdays and a long bar serving cocktails non-stop. Reels’ speciality however is games, with stacks of board games, tables, drinking games and arcade machines free to use for guests; Thursday is games night, when you can compete with others.QH‑4, Rr. Brigada e VIII, Vila 1, tel. +355 69 600 00 94. Open 07:00-23:00. APE

MEDUZA IRISH PUB An insanely popular Irish pub with Guinness on tap and dozens of other bottles beer options, a wide range of pub food and an cosy interior with the usual collection of beer ads. The punters and staff are all extremely friendly, the terrace has the propensity to keep you glued to your seat until well after bedtime and, perhaps best of all, they screen all the major international soccer matches.QH‑5, Rr. Mustafa Matohiti, tel. +355 69 335 1654, www. meduzairishpub.com. Open 06:30-12:00; Fri 07:00-2:00; Sat, Sun 08:00-4:00. €€. APGB

THE ÇÁ ÇA Numero uno when it comes to games bars. Located in Kamëz on the northern periphery of Tirana, the ÇÁ ÇA is a rooftop venue offering some of the best views in town, day and night. Once inside, sit down, relax, eat, drink and play a game of Monopoly - Albania style - or any other myriad of board and card games on offer. A jovial place for jovial people! The UBT University bus (white line 7) stops directly in front of the venue.QBlv. Blu, Perballe UBT, tel. +355 69 666 62 22, www.mydigitalinovation.com/ menu/the-a-a. Open 07:00-23:00. €€. NP

NEW IRISH PUB Hidden behind the Mangiafuoco steak restaurant, the New Irish Pub is a fun, large bar decked out exactly as you would expect, offering Irish beers, good music and pub food. There’s regular live music and lively events like Thursdays’ karaoke night.QH‑4, Rr. Pjeter Pogdani 36/1, tel. +355 69 223 33 24. Open 17:00-2:00AM. APBE

STRIP CLUBS Prostitution is illegal in Albania - but strip clubs aren’t. MARIA BONITA A dance and strip club at the top end of Bulevardi Zogu I, with fair prices and promising dancers from all over the Balkans, private shows in a separate room and special party nights. Admission free.QF‑5, Bulevardi Zogu I 53, tel. +355 67 411 10 88, www.mariabonita.al. Open 22:00-06:00. APX

WINE BARS Sophisticated interiors, quiet music and a good selection of wines to sample. BONAPARTE Up on the first floor of the building and overlooked by a portrait of Napoleon, visitors are free to let themselves loose on a dizzying array of quality French wines, cognac, over 30 types of whiskey and the exclusive Armagnac brandy. Snacks are served, as are Cuban cigars that may be smoked on the premises.QG/H‑4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova, tel. +355 69 204 90 49. Open 07:00-02:00AM. APG

Time for a drink

46 Tirana In Your Pocket

VENA Wine lovers rejoice! Whilst many wine bars have come and gone over the past years, the intimate Vena bar has proved that it’s got what it takes to stay. The owner is passionate in his love of grapes and the staff are extremely knowledgeable regarding their selection of varietals. Find your new favourite sip whilst enjoying a plate of delicious cold-cut meats and cheeses or, if feeling more famished, dig into their signature pastas and risottos.QRr. Komuna e Parisit 3/1, tel. +355 67 490 4376. Open 08:00-12:00. €€€. APBW

Shopping Tirana has caught up with the rest of us and now boasts more or less everything the modern shopper requires, much of it for sale in modern shopping centres. A more authentic Albanian retail experience can be had in the cheap and cheerful neighbourhood shops staffed by grinning proprietors, many of them more concerned with where you’re from and if you have a husband or wife than what you want to buy. Around the Pazar i Ri market, the bustling streets cater to singular tastes such as bicycles, secondhand clothes and furniture.

CASH IS KING Even a global pandemic couldn’t turn Albania into a card-carrying country, so come prepared with cash lek in almost all bars and restaurants. Whilst some venues more accustomed to foreigners are slowly catching on, you should be aware that staff may not know the intricacies of payment machines, and tips should always be in cash.

BOOKS Tirana’s bookshops rarely offer many English-language titles, with the two listed here the main exceptions. ADRION INTERNATIONAL BOOKS The best selection of English-language books in (and about) Albania, including a wide selection of novels, art books, guidebooks, maps and an ever-increasing selection of translated Albanian literature and titles on local history and culture. Also at the airport.QE‑4, Sheshi Skënderbej, Palace of Culture, tel. +355 4 450 26 06, www. adrionltd.com. Open 08:00-21:30. A BOOKLAND A large selection of English-language novels can be found at this colourful shop on the 3rd floor of the ETC.QG‑5, Blvd Bajram Curri, Galeria ETC, tel. +355 68 409 91 99, www.bookland.al. Open 9:00-21:00. A

FASHION Before the arrival of the large shopping centres, Rruga Myslym Shyri and surroundings used to the the go-to place for fashion - and it still offers a decent clothes shopping experience. IL CAMMINO Elegant shoes.QG‑3, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova, tel. +355 69 557 52 21, www.ilcammino.al. Open 9:00-21:00; closed Sun. A ILLYRIAN BLOODLINE Urban fashion by Albanian hiphop artist Rigels Rajku, aka Noizy. Albania’s first fashion brand uses organic cotton for its comfortable hoodies, T-shirts and more, often featuring big letters and graphics inspired by Albanian history. On the eastern side of the National Stadium.QI‑5, Rr. Dervish Hima, tel. +355 69 440 41 88, www.illyrianbloodline. com. PERLA SHOP Albania’s largest online female fashion boutique, with a great selection, good prices, delivery within 24 hours in Albania and an Instagram channel with 250 thousand followers (which means basically everyone who has a phone in Albania) following the riveting adventures of the five Perla models.Qwww.perlashop.al. 48 Tirana In Your Pocket

TWENTY FIVE Modern fashion, shoes, bags and accessories for contemporary women. Also at Rr. Sami Frashëri. QI‑4, Rr. Abdyl Frasheri 7, tel. +355 69 862 69 67. Open 09:00-21:30. ZERO ABSOLUTE Quality ladies’ fashion at reasonable prices.QI‑3, Rr. Sulejman Delvina, tel. +355 69 208 00 70, www. zeroabsolute.com. Open 08:00-21:30.

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS The best souvenir shopping is in Kruja, where shops are full of jewellery, antiques and knickknacks. In Tirana, the Pazar i Ri market has good souvenir options and kiosks at the southern end of Rr. Barrikadave sell Albania mugs, dolls and bunker ashtrays. Albanian cheese and other foodstuffs also make excellent gifts if you can get them home without eating them all on the plane. ART FOREVER Folk costumes, antique chests, wood carvings and old books, near the corner of Blv. Bajram Curri.QG/H‑4, Rr. Vaso Pasha 99, tel. +355 4 224 63 86. Open 10:30-21:00; closed Sun. A HODA The “House of Design Albania” offers striking, large paintings of Albanians in traditional dress, beautiful carpets, pottery and furniture.QF‑5, Rr. Murat Toptani, Tirana Castle, tel. +355 68 200 78 80. Open 09:00-21:00. PIRRO SOUVENIRS A good selection of handicrafts and souvenirs; flags, T-shirts, and mugs depicting Enver Hoxha, King Zog and Mother Teresa.QI‑4, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri, tel. +355 4 222 55 87. Open 09:00-21:00. A TRADITA POPULLORE EDLIRA Traditional Albanian costumes for women and men for sale. You can also try these on for a photo session at the Tirana Castle souvenir shop.QCasa Italia, Tirana-Durres highway, tel. +355 68 309 91 09. Open 08:00-21:00; closed Sun.

Shopping MARKETS Anyone with a cardboard box, a few packets of cigarettes and a square metre of pavement is effectively a market trader in Tirana. Whenever it rains, people will appear as if by magic, armed with a clutch of umbrellas. PAZARI I RI Tirana’s ‘new market’ is the city’s main source of fresh produce. Indoors there’s meat, fish and cheese, while an elegant roof protects the sellers of olives, figs, wine, raki, and - our favourite souvenir - woolly house socks. Early morning is the best time of day to witness the Balkan-style trading and haggling. The area has seen huge investment recently, which has resulted in a lively scene with many good restaurants.QE‑5, Sheshi Avni Rustemi, www. pazariiri.com. Open 04:30-23:00. TREGU I ÇAMËVE This long, semi-covered alley is the main clothing and miscellaneous items market in Tirana, lined with stalls packed with cheap Chinese knock-offs, underwear, sports goods and plastic toys. Branching off from here, Rr. Çameria is the market street for mobile phones, kitchenware and bikes. QF‑3, Rr. Shyqyri Berxolli. Open 08:00-18:00; closed Sun.

SHOPPING CENTRES Until fairly recently, Tirana’s shopping centres were predominantly upmarket affairs pandering to the sophisticated tastes of the city’s fashion-conscious wives and girlfriends. This all changed with the opening of TEG, a massive complex on the edge of the city reminiscent of any shopping centre found in Western Europe. CASA ITALIA A large complex with various mid-range shop outlets. QTirana-Durrës highway, tel. +355 48 86 05 12, www. casaitalia.al. Open 09:00-21:00. A COIN An Italian department store on the lower floors of the high-rise ABA building, selling fashion, home appliances, children’s toys and other nice things.QH‑5, Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II, ABA Business Center, tel. +355 4 450 17 37, www. coin.al. Open 09:00-21:00. A GALERIA ETC One of the first modern shopping centres, the ‘European Trade Center’ has around 25 shops and a restaurant. There’s a Conad supermarket on the ground floor and a good bookshop upstairs.QG‑5, Rr. Bajram Curri, tel. +355 4 225 41 00, www.galeria-etc.com. Open 09:3021:30. A KRISTAL CENTER A shopping centre with a Conad supermarket.QRr. Frang Bardhi, tel. +355 4 480 10 28, www.kristalcenter.com. Open 09:00-21:00. A tirana.inyourpocket.com

Pazari i Ri market

QTU (QENDRA TREGTARE UNIVERS) The QTU shopping centre has a large Carrefour supermarket, electronics shop, a food court and a Cineplexx cinema with love seats at the back.QTirana-Durrës highway, km 6, tel. +355 4 238 01 00, www.qtu.al. Open 09:00-21:00. Open Apr-Sept 09:00-22:00, Oct-Mar 09:00-21:00. A RING CENTER A massive shopping complex within walking distance of the city centre with some 70 shops on three levels, restaurants, ice-skating, and children’s activities. The bus terminal for western and northern Albania is at the rear of the complex.QD‑2, Rr. Muhamet Gjollesha, tel. +355 4 454 06 00, www.ring.al. Open 09:00-22:00. A TEG (TIRANA EAST GATE) The largest and most popular shopping centre in Albania features two floors of shops, a food court, cafés, a huge Interspar hypermarket and a cinema. Also the location of the new international bus station serving the east and south of the country.QRr. Nacionale, Highway Tirane-Elbasan, tel. +355 4 239 50 01, www.teg.al. Open 10:00-21:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-21:00. A TOPTANI SHOPPING CENTER The newest large mall in the city centre has 6 floors of shops and great views over Tirana from the top floor, where there’s also a kids’ play area and few food options such as a Nona buffet restaurant. A supermarket and ATMs including a Credins Bank one can be found downstairs. QF‑5, Rr. Abdi Toptani, tel. +355 4 454 09 99, www. toptani.com.al/en. Open 09:00-22:00. 2022

Shopping SPECIALITY FOOD BARONESHA The expats’ go-to shop for ‘a taste of home’, from Vegemite to sauce hollandaise, vegan cheese to filet mignon - Baronesha has it all, even diet soda and cider.QH‑3, Rr. Sami Frashëri, tel. +355 68 407 43 19, www.baronesha.al. Open 08:30-22:00. MASÈ High quality imported meat and other hard-to-find Italian products such as gluten-free pasta. Also cheese, wine, sausages and jam.QD‑4, Rr. Sami Frasheri, tel. +355 68 205 7230/+355 68 205 72 30, www. cottomase.it. Open 11:00-23:00. A MIA ORGANIC Organic meat, fruit, vegetables and dairy products from local organic producers.QH‑5, Rr. Ismail Qemali, tel. +355 69 707 59 54, www.mia.al. Open 07:3021:00. AG S W MON AMOUR Fresh, hand-made chocolates, cakes, sweets and desserts all made in-house. Also on Rr. e Elbasanit. QD‑5, Rr. Barikadave, tel. +355 68 342 50 97, www. monamour.al. Open 07:00-22:00. A NATYRAL & ORGANIK Organic olive oil, raki, wine, honey, and dried herbs. QH‑4, Rr. Vaso Pasha 3, tel. +355 69 209 90 47. Open 08:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-14:00, 17:30-21:00. A

NEPTUN Electronics shop. Also in the TEG, Kristal and QTU malls, as well as other outlets.QE‑5, Sheshi Avni Rustemi, tel. +355 4 450 50 50, www.neptun.al. Open 09:00-21:00. A

SUPERMARKETS BIG MARKET A central, little supermarket.QE‑5, Rr. Barrikadave, tel. +355 69 707 60 25, www.bigmarket.al. Open 09:0021:00. BIO JU Organic products.QI‑4, Rr. Perlat Rexhepi, tel. +355 69 806 02 22, www.bioju.al. Open 08:00-23:00. CONAD Italian supermarket chain with shops all over Tirana.QG‑5, ETC Galeria, tel. +355 4 227 01 74, www.conadalbania. al. Open 07:30-22:00. A ECO MARKET Albanian supermarket brand with many outlets in Tirana.QD‑4, Rr.Him Kolli, tel. +355 4 450 42 86, www. ecomarket.al. Open 07:00-23:00. A SPAR A supermarket chain with stores of various sizes all over the city, and a hypermarket at the TEG mall.QH‑5, Rr. Perlat Rexhepi, tel. +355 48 845 900, www.spar.al. Open 07:00-00:00. A

NERANXI Home cooks looking for a taste of Asia or Mexico should head to the nearest Neranxi supermarket, which stocks all colours of rice, speciality herbs and spices, nuts, sauces, and more. Also at the Pazar i Ri market.QRr. Sami Frashëri 40, tel. +355 4 240 65 00. Open 24hrs. SAN TARA WINE A great little shop selling an excellent range of wine, brandy and raki from their own vineyards.QF/G‑4, Rr Myslym Shyri, tel. +355 68 60 60 380. Open 09:0021:00. A

SPECIALITY SHOPS ATOM COMPUTERS PCs, mobile phones, data projectors, monitors, accessories and lots of other computer-related goods. QG/H‑3, Rr. Myslym Shyri, tel. +355 69 985 41 99, www.atom.al. Open 09:00-17:00; closed Sun. A MOLLA STORE Authorised Apple products reseller. Guess what molle means?QH‑4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova, Sky Tower, tel. +355 68 204 88 87, www.molla.al. Open 08:00-20:00. 50 Tirana In Your Pocket

Shoeshining throne

Where to Stay The Albanian capital’s hotel scene is as dynamic as ever, with a new Marriott opening in August beside the national stadium, and Hyatt set to take over the former Sheraton by the Grand Park. Besides the big hitters, Tirana features a place to stay on almost every street, including a dazzling array of mid-range hotels and hostels. If you’re sleeping on a budget in Tirana, consider how near to a mosque you are; the first call to prayers of the day can be depressingly early. Room prices listed here include breakfast unless otherwise mentioned, and hotel categories are based on the price of the cheapest double room (listed in euros though payment is in lek).

CREAM OF THE CROP ARTÉ BOUTIQUE HOTEL Set in a gem of a building sandwiched between more modern high-rises, the Arté Boutique Hotel is a charming place with spacious, quiet rooms, great service and a beautiful restaurant with a terrace. And in the middle of the Blloku area, you’re spoilt for choice when it comes to food and entertainment.QH‑4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova 32, tel. +355 68 409 92 22, www. artehotel.al. 14 rooms (singles €125, doubles €135, 2 suites €150). AP G B K H MAK HOTEL TIRANA Between the city centre and the Grand Park, the former Sheraton and future Hyatt hotel offers world-class services and amenities. The lovely large rooms come with comfy beds and wooden floors, and suites have extra seating areas and bathtubs. The restaurant, gym and pool are all top-notch as well. The rooms face either the city or the park, you choose.QJ‑5, Sheshi Italia, tel. +355 4 227 47 07/+355 (0) 69 208 7151, www.makalbania.com. 151 rooms (singles €90-130, 95 doubles €110-150, 55 suites €150-2000). AP GU B L K H C D F O w MARITIM HOTEL PLAZA TIRANA Inside the interesting-looking skyscraper just east of Sheshi Skënderbej, Maritim Plaza Tirana offers a mighty collection of services together with almost 200 rooms spread out on 23 floors. Besides the views, guests can enjoy a gym open around the clock, a luxury spa and no less than three restaurants.QF‑5, Rr. Abdi Toptani 18, tel. +355 4 221 12 21, www.plazatirana.com. 190 rooms (singles €120-150, doubles €146-256, suites €386). AP G U B LJKH D F w ROGNER HOTEL TIRANA One of Albania’s top hotels both for its services and its reputation as a meeting point for locals and foreign visitors alike since 1995, the Rogner’s rooms are decked out with stylish wooden floors and furniture, some with balconies for some wonderful views. The highlight of the hotel is arguably its garden, complete with swimming pool, tennis court, putting green and tirana.inyourpocket.com

SYMBOL KEY P Air-conditioning

T Child-friendly

A Credit cards accepted

F Fitness centre

H Conference facilities

G Non-smoking

U Facilities for the disabled K Restaurant K Restaurant

C Swimming pool

playground, where the brilliant breakfast is served during the summer.QH‑5, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, tel. +355 4 223 50 35, www.hotel-europapark.com. 178 rooms (134 double rooms, 18 deluxe rooms, 25 suites). AP G U B L W K H C F i

UPMARKET ARBËR Mercifully quiet compared to many other city centre hotels, the Arbër is a great little hotel hidden in the streets east of Sheshi Skënderbej. Inside, expect friendly service and small but well-appointed rooms. QE‑4, Rr. Bardhok Biba 59, tel. +355 4 227 38 11, www.hotelarber.com. 24 rooms (5 singles €40, 18 doubles €50, 1 triple €60). AP L J K H BOKA A lovely city centre choice, this striking yellow Italianate building in the middle of the lively Pazari i Ri market district has comfortable rooms in 19th-century design, some with balconies. The basement breakfast room has the largest wrap-around aquarium we’ve seen, with fish eying your egg and bacon through the windows.QE‑5, Rr. Shemsi Haka 4, tel. +355 68 494 35 12, www.hotel-boka.al. 20 Rooms(17 doubles €55-€65, Singles €45, 2 Triple €80-€90, 1 Family Room €100). AP B BRILANT ANTIK Central, quiet, family-run and welcoming, the Brilant Antik has grand rooms decorated with plenty of hand-carved wood. There’s a traditionally furnished Albanian/Italian restaurant in the basement.QF‑5, Rr. Jeronim de Rada 79, tel. +355 4 225 11 66/+355 69 20 20 719, www.hotelbrilant.com. 15 rooms (singles €50- €60 doubles €65-€75). AP G T L J R KH D w

Exchange rates: €1=121 lek, $1=115 lek

2022

Where to Stay CLASSIC Bursting with friendly staff, the smart, Scandinavian-style rooms at the Classic come in a choice of singles, twins and doubles, all featuring en suite facilities, reliable wireless internet connections and a few free newspapers in English. Good for business and independent travellers alike, there’s also a restaurant, bar and conference room.QF‑1, Rr. Sulejman Delvina, tel. +355 69 808 00 69, www.classichotel. al. 14 rooms ( 3 singles €45, 9 doubles €55-65, 1 triple €65). APGUBLKH

HILTON GARDEN INN Near an upcoming hotspot of restaurants and bars at the western end of the centre, the Hilton’s first Albanian hotel has bright, decent-sized rooms, many of them with balconies, a great breakfast, a keen eye for the needs of deiabled guests, and top-notch service. QG‑1, Bv. Gjergj Fishta, tel. +355 4 220 0444, www. hiltongardeninntirana.com. 143 rooms (singles €6075, doubles €75-90, suites €105). AP G T U L KH F

GRAND SPA HOTEL The centrally placed Grand is still one of the city’s best, and its small size adds to its charm. The comfortable rooms are well insulated against street sounds emanating from the blloku, and the hotel also has some snazzy extras such as an indoor swimming pool, Jacuzzi, gym and sauna (closed at time of writing).QH‑3, Rr. Ismail Qemali 11, tel. +355 4 224 79 96, www.grandhoteltirana.com. 32 rooms (Singles €70, doubles €85, 2 suites €150). APGLKHF

KOTONI Sleep in the heart of Tirana’s administrative district. At the Kotoni the boutique rooms are large with high ceilings and modern facilities. The elegant hotel café terrace is where the who’s who of Albanian politics comes to have coffee.QH‑4, Rr. Donika Kastrati 3, tel. +355 4 227

GREEN HOUSE A small and charming business hotel above the eponymous restaurant on a quiet street yet near all the action. With well-designed boutique rooms and suites, some with a terrace, there’s room service around the clock. QG‑5, Rr. Jul Varibova 6, tel. +355 69 205 7599, www. greenhouse.al. Non stop. 23 rooms (singles €60, doubles €70, 3 suites €90). APGLRK

52 Tirana In Your Pocket

AIRPORT HOTEL N HOTEL BY NOSHI A comfortable hotel near to the airport, with quiet rooms, personal service, a restaurant and a bar. Guests also have the convenience of the Hertz car rental office in the same building. Free airport transfers between 08:30-23:00.QRr. Rinasit, tel. +355 69 206 44 48, www.nhotelbynoshi.com. 11 rooms (singles €50-68, doubles €55-72, suites €80-88). PGBLK

Where to Stay 48 88, www.hotelkotoni.com. 27 rooms (singles €75, doubles €90- €100, deluxe €105). AP G U J K OXFORD Unlike many of its type, the Oxford has been designed to fit in with its old Tirana surroundings for a change. Old outside but thoroughly modern inside, the halls and large guest rooms are decorated with modern paintings and works of art. Breakfast is served on the wonderful rooftop café, open for all to try Viennese pastries and snacks.QF‑5, Rr. Xhorxhi Martini 10, tel. +355 4 225 5937/+355 4 22 55 937, www.hoteloxford.al/en. 28 rooms (2 singles €50, 23 doubles €60, 3 suites €80€120). AP G U K H D F PADAM HOTEL A stylish and central boutique hotel in a charming white villa, with six comfortably furnished rooms featuring contemporary artwork. Padam’s restaurant and terrace bar are excellent as well.QH‑5, Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II, tel. +355 69 202 5122, www.padam.al. 6 rooms (singles €60- €80, doubles €70- €100). AP G B K TE STELA Just off the Durres highway, halfway the city centre and the airport, Te Stela is a comfortable brewery-owned hotel with calm rooms, a restaurant and beergarden serving their very own Stela beer, brewed just down the road. For a small fee, guests can make use of the spa facilities

which include a sauna, Jacuzzi, Turkish steam bath and ‘emotional showers’ and treatments including massage and manicure. For another fee, you can access the huge attached sports complex, with large indoor and outdoor semi-Olympic pools.QTirana-Durrës highway, km 7, tel. +355 67 203 33 09, www.testela.al. 100 rooms (singles €47, 33 doubles €63, 12 suites €78-90). AP T LK C D F THE ROOMS A particularly plugged-in hotel, where the the Apple TVs, lighting, curtains, shutters and other electronics in the stark white rooms are controlled via an iPad, whilst those staying in the business suites also get an iMac. All rooms have balconies, Nespresso machines and safes. Guests can also make use of the Nobis spa downstairs.QK‑4, Rr. Sami Frasheri 56, Nobis complex, tel. +355 4 555 05 01, www.theroomsapartmentstirana.com. (Singles €35, doubles €45-50, apartments €65-105). AP L 6 KC F w TIRANA INTERNATIONAL HOTEL Built in the 1970s with help of the Chinese, for years Tirana’s main landmark was the only high-rise in the country and one of only three hotels in town accepting foreigners (in bugged rooms of course), with propaganda slogans on the roof and escape tunnels for the elite. The international-standard rooms here are fine now, though the building is completely dwarfed by the gigantic new

THE ALBANIAN WAY OF HOSPITALITY

tirana.inyourpocket.com

2022

Where to Stay hotel under construction right behind it.QE‑4, Sheshi Skënderbej 8, tel. +355 4 223 41 85/+355 68 60 38 980, www.tiranainternational.com. 168 rooms (singles €116-133, doubles €126-145, suites €200-240). AP GL R K H C D F w XHEKO IMPERIAL A fascinating Albanian-style luxury hotel, the high-rise section offers over-the-top suites that drip with glam, each named after a famous painting. The open Jacuzzi bathrooms are any girl’s dream, and the fairy-tale silkdraped four-poster beds are really rather extravagant. Don’t miss the excellent rooftop bar.QI‑4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova 56, tel. +3554 2259574, www.xhekoimperial.com. 28 rooms (7 singles €110, 6 doubles €150, 15 suites €250-350). AP L K H F

MID-RANGE Good value. Doubles between €50 and €90. CITY HOTEL A nice mid-range option in a quiet courtyard in the middle of an area of good bars and restaurants, City Hotel’s rooms are clean and basic, with minibars and decent internet. Breakfast is served in the room behind reception, and there’s a small supermarket around the corner.QH‑5, Rr. Ismail Qemali 8/1, tel. +355 69 202 07 57, www.hotelcitytirana.com. 16 rooms (10 singles €32-60, 6 doubles €75). AP G L DIPLOMAT Originally Tirana’s first proper boutique hotel, this continues to be a popular choice with those who can afford their magnificent executive and deluxe rooms. The facilities boast everything one would expect from a hotel in this category, plus there’s a very good buffet breakfast on offer and an in-house spa featuring sauna, Jacuzzi and massage. West of the centre.QF‑1, Blv. Bajram Curri, tel. +355 69 203 04 57, www. diplomathotels.al. 26 rooms (2 singles €65, 24 doubles €75-€120). AP G U E L R K H D w ELYSÉE A quality mid-range hotel featuring friendly service, a top location near the US and Italian embassies and a gurgling fountain. The rooms are modern and quiet, with king-sized beds and iron balconies, although there’s no lift to get you between the four floors. QH‑5/6, Rr. Themistokli Gërmenji 2/173, tel. +355 4 222 28 80, www.hotelelysee-al.com. 20 rooms (3 singles €39-45, 13 doubles €47-52, 4 triples €60). AP B L K

Exchange rates: €1=121 lek, $1=115 lek 54 Tirana In Your Pocket

BUDGET FREDDY’S HOTEL Once one of very few affordable options in the city, Freddy’s is a marvellous family-run venture on a pleasantly quiet street that’s still among the best budget places to stay considering they almost give the rooms away for free. The rooms are basic to say the least, but there’s en suite bathrooms and Freddy himself, the amiable, English-speaking owner.QE‑4, Rr. Bardhok Biba 75, tel. +355 68 203 52 61, www.freddyshotel.com. 14 rooms (12 twins €28, 1 triple €50,1 quadruple €59). APGL

HOSTELS BUFF HOSTEL A relaxed hostel just east of the main square and Pazar i Ri market, Buff offers simple plywood-style dorm rooms with lockers and clean shared facilities, all at great prices. The private rooms with ensuite bathroom are especially good value. The owners are at hand to help with tips about Tirana and Albania.QE‑6, Rr. Johan Fon Han 4, tel. +35567 401 18 10, www.buffhosteltirana.com. 9 rooms (dorm beds €9, 4 twins €20, 3 triples €30). NPXB MILINGONA HOSTEL A hostel in an old house just a short walk Sheshi Skënderbej and near the Pazar i Ri market, ‘The Ant’ has clean dormitories with bunk beds and shared facilities, and private rooms, all with free breakfast. There’s a kitchen, laundry service, a nice garden, and the hostel organises pub crawls, tours and other activities.QE‑6, Rr. Vehbi Agolli 11, tel. +355 69 207 00 76, www.milingonahostel.com. 10 rooms (dorm beds €8-18, 1 double €28-36, 1 triple €40). NPGB EW TIRANA BACKPACKER HOSTEL Albania’s very first hostel opened in 2005, and after several reincarnations is now housed in a century-old Italian-style villa just off Rr. e Kavajës. What makes this place great is the welcoming reception, summer garden and the relaxed vibe. Facilities include a shared kitchen, bike rental (500 lek/day), and free breakfast. They organise affordable day trips (available to non-guests as well) to Dajti mountain, Kruja, wild beaches near Durres, and to Pellumbas village, where you can hike to an impressive cave and stay at house to experience Albanian mountain village life.QE‑3, Rr. Bogdaneve 3, tel. +355 68 468 23 53, www.tiranahostel.com. 6 rooms (dorm beds from €10, singles €18, doubles €35). AP TRIP’N HOSTEL Housed inside a colourful old villa and run by welcoming locals, the communal rooms here are filled with antiques and memorabilia. Each bunk bed has a locker, and the basement room is cool during the summer and warm and cosy with a fireplace in winter. Ask to see the Communist-era airraid shelter behind the building.QD/E‑6, Rr. Musa Maci 1, tel. +355 68 304 89 05, www.tripnhostel.com. 7 rooms (dorm beds from €11). APB

BUFF HOSTEL TIRANA

RECHARGE IN ONE OF OUR COMFORTABLE PRIVATE ROOMS OR DORMS AFTER A LONG DAY OF DISCOVERING THE CITY Words from our guest:

"Are you ready for a good night’s sleep? Clean and crisp with little frills, this hostel is a dream space for the minimalist backpacker. The hostel is quieter compared to some of its neighboring hostels, and perfect for the backpacker who likes to take a breath and relax without too much fuss after touring all day. The private rooms are lovely; one private attic room has wooden beam ceilings with a large, comfortable bed. The double bed private rooms also have balconies. If you’ve been dorming it up during your trip, this may be the hostel to splurge a little and get some alone time.. " *https://www.travelinglifestyle.net/best-hostelstirana/

BUFF HOSTEL TIRANA Johan Fon Han st., bld. 4, Tirana, Albania Contact us directly at: buffhosteltirana@gmail.com, +355674011810 /+355672823620 Visit us at: buffhosteltirana.com

Directory QR PAYMENTS POK An app for reliable payments and money transfers, set to launch this summer. Easy to set up, you can pay restaurant, bar or utility bills by scanning the vendor’s QR code, or use it to send and receive payments from others.QRr. Frang Bardhi, Qendra Kristal, tel. +355 69 704 72 31, www.pokpay.io.

The Cloud at the National Gallery of Arts

Dentists, hospitals, embassies and lots more.

PHARMACIES DITË E NATË QRr. Myslym Shyri, tel. +355 67 733 3777, www. ditenate.al/en. Open 06:00-03:00. GREEK PHARMA (FARMACIA GREKE) QBlv. Bajram Curri, Pallatet Agimi, tel. +355696035148, www.farmaciagreke.com. Open 08:00-22:00. PHARMA NET QRr. Siri Kodra, Nr.8/660, Kat 1, tel. +355 69 609 9222, www.farma-net.com. Open 07:00-23:00.

PRODENT QF‑1, Rr.Dervish Hima, Kati 2, tel. +355 67 200 1958, www.klinika-prodent.business.site. Open 08:30 - 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. TIRANA CENTER (KLINIKË DENTARE TIRANA CENTER) QG‑3, Rr. e Dibrës, tel. +355 67 451 3186/04 223 1564, www.klinike-dentare-tirana-center.business.site. Open 09:00-19:00; Sat 09:00-12:00; closed Sun. UFO CLINIC (POLIKLINIKA DENTARE UFO) QF‑2, Rr. Kavajës,Pallati 3, tel. +355 4 224 00 28, www. ufodentalclinic.com. Open 08:00-18:00; Sat 08:0012:00; closed Sun.

OPTICIANS

PHARMATECH QD‑5, Rr. Barrikadave, tel. +355 697033491, www. farmatech.al. Open 08:30-22:00; closed Sun.

ITALOPTIKE QD‑5, Rr. Dibrës 271, tel. +355 (0) 4 2222 985, www. italoptik.al. Open 08:00-20:00; closed Sun.

DENTISTS The Albanian for dental clinic is klinika dentare.

OPTIKA 1 (OPTIKA ONE) QF‑5, Rr. Abdi Toptani, Toptani Center, tel. +355 69 406 6387, www.optikaone.com/al.

B.E.L DENT (KLINIKA BEL DENT) QBlv. Bajram Curri, Pallatet Agimi, Shk 7, tel. +355 68 282 0771.

OPTIKA BRUNA (OTTICA BRUNA) QG‑4, Blv. Bajram Curri, tel. +355 4 224 63 61. Open 09:00-13:00/16:00-20:00; closed Sun.

DIAMOND DENTAL QKryqëzimi 21-Dhjetorit, tel. +355 67 20 81 818, www. diamond-dental.al.

HOSPITALS & CLINICS

EMERALD DENTAL CLINIC QRr. e Kavajes, Pallati me Shigjeta, tel. +355 69 205 72 77, www.emeraldental.com. LEDISMILE DENTAL CLINIC QRr. Irfan Tomini, pall. Alfa, Shk.1, Ap.1, tel. +355 69 512 2299, www.ledismile.com. Open 09:00-19:00; closed Sun. ORTHOLUX QH/I‑5, Rr. Themistokli Germenji, tel. +355 69 404 2956, www.ortholux.com. 56 Tirana In Your Pocket

AMERICAN HOSPITAL (SPITALI AMERIKAN) A modern hospital along the Durrës highway, with international staff.QE‑6, Rr. Beqir Luga, tel. +355 (0) 42 35 75 35, www.al.spitaliamerikan.com/en. HYGEIA HOSPITAL (SPITALI HYGEIA) Albania’s first large private hospital.QTirana-Durrës highway, tel. +355 4 239 00 00, www.hygeia.al. KLINIKA IRMA A large private multi-speciality clinic near the Grand Park. Doctors speak English, French and Italian.QI‑4, Rr. Dora D’Istria, tel. +355 4 224 30 00. Open 09:00-18:00; Fri 09:00-18:00; Sat 09:00-12:00; closed Sun.

Directory HAIRDRESSERS ARDI HAIR FASHION Hair styling by Ardi Borova.QH‑3, Rr. Vaso Pasha 7, tel. +355 68 202 61 18, www.ardiborova.com/al. Open 08:30-19:30; closed Sun. SALON ARBER Professional men’s barber shop for haircuts, styling, beards and barber’s massages.QRr. Gjik Kuqali, tel. +355 69 265 22 77. Open 09:00-21:00.

DRY CLEANERS FAST & CLEAN QD‑4, Rr. Esat Mekuli, Ish Fusha e Aviacionit, tel. +355 69 389 3615. Open 09:00-20:00. PASTRIM KIMIK LAVANDER QI‑4, Rr. Nikolla Tupe, 5, tel. +355 69 341 1119, www. lavander.co.

FITNESS CENTRES ANGEL’S FITNESS GYM QRr. e Kavajes, Pallati Orion, 2, tel. +355 69 402 19 01, www.angels-fitness-gym.business.site. Open 08:0024:00; closed Sun. FITNESS FORMA GYM (FITNESS FORMA & BAHOLLI’S BAR) QD‑4, Rr. Maliq Muço, tel. +355 04 562 9240. Open 08:00-23:00.

58 Tirana In Your Pocket

New architecture by the lake

MAGNET GYM QRr. Frosina Plaku, Kompleksi Magnet, Nr.40, tel. +355 69 89 02 578, www.magnetgym.al. MMA CENTER (TIRANA MMA CENTER, AKADEMIA E ARTEVE MARCIALE) QD‑6, Rr. Qemal Stafa, tel. +355 69 402 4540, www. tiranammacenter.com. Open 09:00-20:00. NOBIS WELLNESS CENTER QRr. Sami Frashëri Kompleksi TID, tel. +355 6890 46 000, www.nobis.al. RING FITEXPRESS QD‑1, Rr. Muhamed Gjollesha, Ring Center, tel. +355 4 454 06 00, www.ring.al/fitexpress. ROCK TIRANA CLIMBING GYM (ROCK TIRANA) QRr. Ali Visha 8, tel. +355 68 269 7564, www.rocktirana. com. Open 16:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. VESA SPA & FITNESS QI‑4, Rr. Abdyl Frasheri Tirana, tel. +355 67 406 9309. Open 8:00-21:00.

Directory LIBRARIES AMERICAN CORNER QE‑4, Sheshi Skënderbej (National Library), tel. +355 04 222 6955. Open Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 08:00-20:00; Sat 08:00-14:00; closed Sun. MUSINE KOKALARI LIBRARY (BIBLIOTEKA MUSINE KOKALARI) QBlv. Gjergj Fishta, Vasil Shanto. NATIONAL LIBRARY QE‑4, Sheshi Skënderbej (Palace of Culture), tel. +355 422 69 955, www.bksh.al. Open 08:00-20:00; Sat 08:0014:00; closed Sun. UNIVERSITY LIBRARY (BIBLIOTEKA SHKENCORE ALBANOLOGJIKE) QI‑4, Sheshi Nënë Tereza, tel. +355 42 24 07 13, www. asa.edu.al/site/bsha. Open 08:00-19:00; Sat 08:0013:00; closed Sun.

LANGUAGE COURSES GOETHE ZENTRUM ALBANIA Learn Deutsch.QRr. Skënderbej, Nr.1, tel. +355 69 20 75 751, www.goethe.al/sq. LINCOLN CENTER Language courses for adults: Albanian, English and German. Also at Rr. Ismail Qemali 31. QH‑4, Rr. Qemal Stafa 184, tel. +355 68 201 0607, www.lincolnalbania.org. Open 8:00-20:00; closed Sun.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS ALBANIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL QH‑6, Rr. Elbasanit 24, tel. +355 69 47 46 856, www.aistirana.org. Open 08:00-15:30; closed Sat, Sun. ECOLE VIKTOR HYGO QRr. Tre Vëllezërit Kondi, tel. +355 69 20 616 77, fax +355 4 2371725, www.ecole-vhugo.com. Open 08:0017:00; Sat 08:00-15:00; closed Sun. MEMORIAL INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL QRr. Pavarësia, tel. +355695294330, www.memorial. edupage.org/?. Open 08:00-16:00. TIRANA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL QKomuna Petrelë, tel. +355 4 236 5239, www.tirana. qsi.org. Open 08:00-16:00. WORLD ACADEMY OF TIRANA QRr. e Rezervave, Lunder, tel. +355 69 6056 123, www. wat.al. Open 08:00-16:00.

www.inyourpocket.com tirana.inyourpocket.com

CO-WORKING COOLAB 800 square metres of workstations and meeting rooms, with a cafetaria, lockers, printing services and an active local community. From €8 per day.QF‑2, Rr. e Kavajës 50, tel. +355 67 404 44 94, www.coolab.al. DUTCH HUB A large co-working space in the blloku area with private office rental, virtual office services, meeting rooms, a terrace. From €10 per day for a desk.QH‑4, Rr. Brigada VIII, tel. +355 68 209 20 89, www.dutchhub. al/en. HOTSPOT TIRANA QRr. Tafaj, tel. +355688321066, hotspottirana.com. Open 08:00-22:00.

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INNOSPACE QRr. Pjetër Bogdani, tel. +355 69 219 2666, www. innospacetirana.com. Open 09:00-19:00. MYOFFICE’AL QRr. Asim Vokshi, tel. +355 67 201 52 60, www. myoffice.al.

REMOVAL COMPANIES AGS ALBANIA QRr. Llazar Xhajanka 1027, tel. +355 4 450 06 17, www. agsmovers.com. CAGATAY LOJISTIK QVore, Tirane, tel. +355 67 550 27 68. MOVE ONE RELOCATIONS Removal services for companies and individuals.QD‑5, Rr. Myslym Shyri, tel. +355 4 225 81 03, www.moveoneinc. com. ; closed Sun, Sat.

BANKS The only bank not charging up to 700 lek to use their ATMs is Credins Bank. We love Credins Bank. ALPHA CREDIT BANK QE/F‑3, Rr. e Kavajës, G-Kam Center, tel. +355 4 223 67 10, www.alphabank.al. BKT QG‑5, Blv. Zhan D’Ark, tel. +355 4 22 66 288, www.bkt. com.al. CREDINS BANK QH‑4, Rr. Vaso Pasha, Nr.8, tel. +355 4 227 47 77/+355 67 605 6284, www.bankacredins.com. 2022

Directory INTESA SANPAOLO BANK QI‑4, Rr. Ismail Qemali 27, tel. +355 4 227 60 00, www. intesasanpaolobank.al. OTP QH‑5, Twin Towers Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, Kulla 1, Kati 9, tel. +355 68 401 21 21, www.otpbank.al. Open 08:00-15:00; Sat 08:00-13:00; closed Sun. PROCREDIT BANK QI‑3, Rr. Dritan Hoxha, tel. +355 4 238 93 89, www. procreditbank.com.al. Open 08:00-17:00; Sat 08:0013:00; closed Sun. RAIFFEISEN BANK QG‑5, Rr. Kavajes 44, tel. +355 4 238 13 81, www. raiffeisen.al. Open 08:30-15:30; Sat 09:00-12:30; closed Sun. TIRANA BANK QE‑3, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova, tel. +355 4 227 77 00, www. tiranabank.al. Open 08:00-15:00; closed Sun, Sat. UNION BANK QH‑4, Blv. Zogu I, tel. +355 4 238 91 11, www. unionbank.al. Open 08:00-16:30; Sat 08:00-13:00; closed Sun.

LAWYERS & CONSULTANTS BOGA & ASSOCIATES QH‑4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova, tel. +355 4 225 10 50, fax +355 4 225 1055, www.bogalaw.com. Open 08:3018:30; closed Sun, Sat. DELOITTE ALBANIA QF‑5, Rr. Kavajes, kompleksi Delijorgji, tel. +355 4 227 79 20, www.www2.deloitte.com/al/sq.html. Open 08:30-17:30; closed Sat, Sun. TONUCCI & PARTNERS QH‑4, Rr. Abdi Toptani, tel. +355 (0) 4 2250711, www. tonucci.com. Open 08:00-18:00; closed Sun, Sat.

MEDIA ALBANIAN DAILY NEWS The news in dodgy English, since 1995.Qwww. albaniannews.com. Open 08:00-16:00; closed Sun, Sat. EURONEWS ALBANIA News from a European perspective, in English. Part of the Euronews and NBC News brands.Qwww. euronews.al/en. EXIT NEWS Independent and critical reporting in English about news in Albania and the Western Balkans.Qwww. exit.al/en. TIRANA TIMES Local and international news and commentary in English.Qwww.tiranatimes.com. Open 08:00-16:00; closed Sun, Sat.

NOTARIES BLERINA MUSTAFARAJ NOTARY QBlv. Bajram Curri, tel. +355 69 403 69 64, www. blerinamustafaraj.com. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:0013:00; closed Sun. NATIONAL NOTARY ROOM (DHOMA KOMBETARE E NOTEREVE) QRr. Nikolla Tupe nr.7, tel. +355 4 226 6242, www. notariati.al. ROBO NOTARY (ROBO NOTERI) QH‑4, Rr. Ismail Qemali 27/1, tel. +355 69 266 66 65. Open 08:30-14:00;18:00-19:00; closed Sun, Sat.

TRANSLATORS ERGYZ BREZHANI QRr. Aleksander Moisiu, tel. +355 68 202 70 68, www. ergysbezhani.com. LANGUAGE SOLUTIONS QRr. Aleksander Moisiu, www.languagesolutions.al. META TRANSLATIONS QF‑5, Rr. George W. Bush, tel. +355 69 335 33 17, www. meta-translations.com.

GOVERNMENT Statues at the National History Museum

60 Tirana In Your Pocket

ADISA (AGJENCIA E OFRIMIT TË SHËRBIMEVE PUBLIKE TË INTEGRUARA) QG‑4, Blv. Zhan d’ Ark, tel. 0800 0118, www.adisa.gov. al.

Directory www.inyourpocket.com ALBANIAN DEVELOPMENT FUND (FONDI SHQIPTAR I ZHVILLIMIT) QH‑3, Rr. Sami Frashëri 10, tel. +355 (0)4 22 35 597/8, www.albaniandf.org. Open Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu 08:0016:30; Fri 08:00-14:00; closed Sat, Sun. INSTITUTE OF STATISTICS (INSTAT) QRr. Vllazën Huta, Ndërtesa 35, Hyrja 1, tel. +355 (4) 2233356, www.instat.gov.al. Open Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 08:00-16:30; closed Sat, Sun. MUNICIPALITY OF TIRANA (BASHKIA TIRANE) The mayor of Tirana since 2015 is Erion Veliaj (b. 1979). QF‑4, Sheshi Skënderbej, Nd. 2, tel. 0800 0888, www. tirana.al. Open Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 07:00-18:00; closed Sat, Sun. PRIME MINISTER’S OFFICE (KRYEMINISTRIA (ALBANIAN GOVERMENT)) QH‑5, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit 1, tel. +355 4 2277 369, www.kryeministria.al. ; closed Sat, Sun.

MINISTRIES MINISTRY FOR EUROPE AND FOREIGN AFFAIRS (MINISTRIA PER EVROPEN DHE PUNET E JASHTME) QBlv. Gjergj Fishta, 6, tel. +355 4 234 0358, www. punetejashtme.gov.al. ; closed Sat, Sun. MINISTRY OF AGRICULTURE AND RURAL DEVELOPMENT (MINISTRIA E BUJQESISE, DHE ZHVILLIMIT RURAL) QF‑4, Sheshi Skënderbej 2, tel. +355 4 222 6911, www. bujqesia.gov.al. MINISTRY OF CULTURE (MINISTRIA E KULTURES) QRr. Aleksandër Moisiu, tel. +355 4 222 3077/+355 4 2222508, www.kultura.gov.al. ; closed Sat, Sun.

MINISTRY OF HEALTH AND SOCIAL PROTECTION (MINISTRIA E SHËNDETËSISË DHE MBROJTJES SOCIALE) QG‑5, Rr. Kavajes, 25, tel. +355 4 237 6178, www. shendetesia.gov.al. ; closed Sun, Sat. MINISTRY OF INFRASTRUCTURE AND ENERGY (MINISTRIA E INFRASTRUKTURES DHE ENERGJISE) QRr. Abdi Toptani, tel. +355 4 222 2245, www. infrastruktura.gov.al. ; closed Sat, Sun. MINISTRY OF INTERNAL AFFAIRS (MINISTRIA E PUNEVE TE BRENDSHME) QF‑4, Sheshi Skënderbej 3, tel. +355 4 800 9090, www.moi.gov.al. ; closed Sun, Sat. MINISTRY OF JUSTICE (MINISTRIA E DREJTESISE) QF‑4, Blv. Zogu I, tel. +355 4 2259 388, www.drejtesia. gov.al. ; closed Sun, Sat. MINISTRY OF STATE PROPOSALS FOR THE PROTECTION OF ENTREPRENEURSHIP (MINISTRI I SHTETIT PËR MBROJTJEN E SIPËRMARRJES) QRr. Deshmoret e 4 Shkurtit, nr.3, tel. +355 4 222 3455, www.sipermarrja.gov.al. ; closed Sat, Sun. MINISTRY OF TOURISM AND ENVIRONMENT (MINISTRIA E TURIZMAT, KULTURE, RINISE DHE SPORTEVE) QE‑3/4, Rr. e Kavajës, tel. +355 4 222 4537, www.mkrs. gov.al. ; closed Sun, Sat.

BUSINESS SERVICES NATIONAL BUSINESS CENTRE (QENDRA KOMBËTARE E BIZNESIT) Business registration in Albania.QBlv Zhan D’Ark, tel. +355 4 225 00 66, www.qkb.gov.al. Open 08:30-14:00; Fri 08:30-13:30; closed Sun, Sat.

NGOS

MINISTRY OF DEFENCE (MINISTRIA E MBROJTJES) QF‑4, Rr. e Dibrës, tel. +355 4 222 8377, www.mod.gov. al. ; closed Sun, Sat.

AADF (ALBANIAN AMERICAN DEVELOPMENT FOUNDATION) QI‑4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova, tel. +355 4 222 2408, www. aadf.org.

MINISTRY OF EDUCATION & SPORTS (MINISTRIA E ARSIMIT DHE SPORTIT) QE‑3, Rr. Durrësit 23, tel. +355 4 222 63 07, www.arsimi. gov.al. ; closed Sun, Sat.

EBRD (EUROPEAN BANK FOR RECONSTRUCTION AND DEVELOPMENT) QH‑4/5, Rr. Abdi Toptani, Torre Drini, tel. +355 4 223 28 98, www.ebrd.com/home.

MINISTRY OF FINANCES AND ECONOMY (MINISTRIA E FINANCAVE DHE EKONOMISE) QF‑4, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit 2, tel. +355 4 22811 133, www.financa.gov.al. ; closed Sun, Sat.

EMA (EUROPEAN MOVEMENT ALBANIA) QRr. Milto Tutulani, Nd.1, Ap. 4., tel. +355 44 104 247, www.em-al.org.

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Directory EU DELEGATION (DELEGATION OF THE EUROPEAN UNION TO ALBANIA) QI/H‑5, Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II, ABA Business Center, tel. +355 4 222 83 20, www.eeas.europa.eu/delegations/ albania_en.

WHO (WORLD HEALTH ORGANIZATION) QH‑5, Rr.Skenderbej, Gurten Building, No 6, tel. +45 45 33 70 00, www.euro.who.int.

GIZ (GERMAN SOCIETY FOR INTERNATIONAL COOPERATION) QE‑5, Rr. Asim Zeneli, Nd. 6/10, tel. +355 4 223 04 14, www.giz.de/en/worldwide/294.html.

AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE QH‑4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova 11/3, tel. +355 4 225 97 79, www.amcham.com.al.

IMF (INTERNATIONAL MONETARY FUND) QG‑4, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, Twin Tower 1, tel. +355 4 228 04 00/+355 69 208 8856., www.imf.org/en/ Countries/ResRep/ALB. IOM (INTERNATIONAL OFFICE FOR MIGRATION) QH‑4, Rr. Brigada VIII, Vila nr 3, tel. +335 4 22 5783 67, www.albania.iom.int. OSCE (ORGANIZATION FOR SECURITY AND COOPERATION IN EUROPE) QJ‑5, Sheshi Italia ,Mak Albania Hotel, 1st Floor, tel. +355 4 223 5993, www.osce.org. SOROS (OPEN SOCIETY FOUNDATION FOR ALBANIA) QE‑5/6, Rr. Qemal Stafa 120/1, tel. +355 4 223 46 21, www.osfa.al. UNDP (THE UNITED NATIONS DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMME) QI/H‑5, Rr. Skenderbej, Gurten Building, 2nd Floor, tel. +355 4 2250 205/+355 4 2250 234, www.al.undp.org. UNFPA (UNITED NATIONS POPULATION FUND) QF‑4, Rr. Skenderbe, UN House, 2nd floor, tel. +35544500015, www.albania.unfpa.org/en. UNHCR (UNITED NATIONS HIGH COMMISSIONER FOR REFUGEES) QG/H‑4, Rr. Skenderbej, Volswagen Building, 2nd Floor, tel. 355 4 2250205/+355 4 225 0284, www.unhcr. org/albania.html. UNICEF (UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL CHILDREN’S EMERGENCY FUND) QF‑4, Rr. Skënderbej, tel. +355 4 4548409/+355 69 20 24 185, www.unicef.org/albania. UN WOMEN QRr. Skenderbej, P. 8, 2nd floor, Ap. 29,30,31, tel. +355 4 450 2555, www.albania.unwomen.org. USAID (U.S. AGENCY FOR INTERNATIONAL DEVELOPMENT.) QH/G‑5/6, Rr. Elbasanit 103, tel. +355 4 224 72 85, www.usaid.gov/albania. 62 Tirana In Your Pocket

CHAMBERS OF COMMERCE

BRITISH CHAMBER OF COMMERCE & INDUSTRY QBlv. Petro Nini Luarasi 58, tel. +355 4 234 10 20, www. abcci.com. SWISSA CHAMBER OF COMMERCE QStr. Ibrahim Rrugova, tel. +355 69 202 1421, www. swissa.al. TIRANA CHAMBER OF COMMERCE & INDUSTRY (DHOMA E TREGTISË DHE INDUSTRISË TIRANË) QE‑3, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, tel. +355 4 580 0932, www.cci.al.

FOREIGN REPRESENTATIONS Gone are the days when you could simply rock up at your representation for cognac and cigars with the ambassador - they all want appointments in advance now. AUSTRIA QE/F‑2, Rr. Xibrakeve 4, tel. +355 4 227 48 55/+355 4 22 74 856, www.bmeia.gv.at. Open 09:00-12:00. BRASIL QRr. Elbasanit, tel. +355 4 2258 226/+355 4 2258 227, www.tirana.itamaraty.gov.br/pt-br. BULGARIA QE‑2, Rr. Skënderbej 12, tel. +355 4 223 3155/+355 4 22 32 906, www.mfa.bg/embassies/albania. Open 08:0015:00. CHINA QE‑2, Rr. Skënderbej 57, tel. +355 4 223 23 85/+355 42253505, www.al.china-embassy.gov.cn. Open 08:3017:00. CROATIA QF‑5, Rr. Gjeneral Nikols, 7th floor, tel. +355 4 225 6948/+355 4 23 11 110, www.mvep.gov.hr/al. CZECH REPUBLIC QE‑2, Rr. Skënderbej 10, tel. +355 4 223 2117, www. mzv.cz/tirana. DENMARK QH/I‑4, Rr. Nikolla Tupe 1, Kati 4, Ap. 4, tel. +355 4 228 06 00, www.albanien.um.dk.

Directory EGYPT QE‑2, Rr. Skënderbej 1, tel. +355 4 223 30 22/+355 68 801 6200, www.egyptembassy.org/location/albania. FRANCE QE‑2, Rr. Skënderbej 14, tel. +355 4 238 9700, www. al.ambafrance.org. GERMANY QE‑2, Rr. Skënderbej 8, tel. +355 4 227 45 05, www. tirana.diplo.de. GREECE QE/F‑2, Rr. Skenderbej, 88, tel. +355 4 227 4668/+3554 2234290, www.mfa.gr/tirana. HOLY SEE (VATICAN) QD‑4, Rr. Durrësit 13, tel. +355 4 233516. HUNGARY QE‑2, Rr. Xibrakëve 47., tel. +355 4 223 22 38, www. tirana.mfa.gov.hu. IRAN QH‑5, Rr. Mustafa Matohiti 20, tel. +355 4 2 254 621/+355 4 2 255 038, www.tirana.mfa.ir/en. ISRAEL QE‑3, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri, EGT Tower, tel. +355 4450 85 02, www.embassies.gov.il/tirana. ITALY QH‑5, Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II, 2, tel. +355 4 227 5900, www.ambtirana.esteri.it/ambasciata_tirana/it. KOSOVO QG‑4, Rr. Donika Kastrioti 6, tel. +355 4 226 16 50, www.ambasada-ks.net/al. KUWAIT QRr. Durresit, Vila 134, tel. +355 4 22 36 800/+355 4 22 36 505, www.embassy-kuwait.com/kw/Kuwait-inTirana.

The Kika 2 complex in Komuna e Parisit district

QATAR QRr. Asim Zeneli, tel. +355 4 2274488/+355 4 2274579, www.tirana.embassy.qa. ROMANIA QH‑5, Rr. Themistokli Gërmenji 1, tel. +355 4 225 60 71. RUSSIA QH‑5, Rr. Ukraina e lirë, tel. +355 4 225 60 40, www. albania.mid.ru. SAUDI ARABIA QD‑3, Rr. Viena, Kompleksi Xibraku Vila1, tel. +355 69 700 0007, www.mofa.gov.sa. SERBIA QH‑4, Rr. Ukraina e lirë9 /1, tel. +355 4 222 3042/+355 4 2232091, www.tirana.mfa.gov.rs. SLOVENIA QI‑4, Rr. Abdyl Frasheri 11/1, EGT Tower, tel. +355 4 227 48 58/+355 69 40 81 999, www.tirana.embassy.si. SPAIN QD‑2, Rr. Skënderbej 43, tel. +355 4 227 49 61/+355 4 227 49 60, www.exteriores.gob.es/embajadas/tirana. SWEDEN QH‑6, Rr. Pjetër Budi 56, tel. +355 4 238 06 50, www. swedenabroad.se/tirana. SWITZERLAND QH‑6, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova, Nr. 3/1, tel. +355 4 223 48 88/+355 4 225 6535, www.eda.admin.ch/albania.

MONTENEGRO QG‑5, Rr. Abdi Toptani 8,, tel. +355 4 226 13 09/+35 5 69 6060 220.

TURKEY QI‑6, Rr. Elbasanit 65, tel. +355 4 238 03 50, www. tirana.emb.mfa.gov.tr.

NETHERLANDS QH‑5, Rr. Asim Zeneli 10, tel. +355 4 224 08 28, www. mfa.nl/tir.

UKRAINE QRr. Ukraina e Lirë, tel. +355 4 450 55 35, www.albania. mfa.gov.ua.

NORTH MACEDONIA QF‑2, Rr. Kavajës 116, tel. +3554 4 223 09 09/+355 42 274 765, www.mfa.gov.mk.

UNITED KINGDOM QE‑2, Rr. Skënderbej 12, tel. +355 4 223 49 73, www. gov.uk/government/world/albania.

POLAND QD‑2, Rr. Durrësit 123, tel. +355 4 223 41 90/+355 6 940 22011, www.gov.pl/web/albania.

UNITED STATES Visits by appointment only.QI‑6, Rr. Stavro Vinjau 14, tel. +355 4 224 72 85, www.al.usembassy.gov.

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STREET REGISTER All Tirana streets below are prefexed ‘Rruga’ (Rr.); boulevards are listed as ‘Blv’, squares as ‘Sheshi’. 4 Dëshmorët C-6 28 Nëntori F-4/5, E-5 Abdi Toptani F-4/5 Abdulla Keta D-5 Abdyl Frashëri I-3/4/5 Adem Kruja G-2 Ali Pashe Gucia C-5/6, D-6 Andon Zako Çajupi H-3 Asim Vokshi D-3/4 Asim Zeneli H-5/6 Bardhok Biba D-4 Barrikadave B/C-4, D-4/5 Beqir Luga E-6 Besim Imami F-2/3 Bilal Konxholli C-5/6 Blv. Bajram Curri H-1 to G-6 Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit F-4 to I-5 Blv. Gjergj Fishta H-1 to G-4 Blv. Zhan D’Ark G-5 to E-6 Blv. Zogu I C/D/E-4 Bogdani E-3 Brigada VIII H-3/4 Çamëria F-3/4 Çerçiz Topulli C-4, D-5 Ded Gjo Luli E-4 Dervish Hatixhe D/C-4 Dervish Hima I-5/6 Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit G/H/I/J-4 Dhimitër S. Shuteriqi J-1/2 Dibrës C/D-5, B5/6 Don Bosko B/C-2 Donika Kastrioti G/H-4 Dora D’Istria K/J-4 Durrësit D-2/3, E-3/4 Edit Durham E-2 Elbasanit G-5, H-5/6, I-6 Emin Duraku I-2, H-3 Fadil Rada I-2, H-3 Faik Konica I-6 Fatmir Haxhiu G-5 Frederik Shiroka F-1/2, E-2 Gjin Bue Shpata H/I-3 Gjin Kuqali I/J-3 Gjon Buzuku B/C-5 Gjon Muzaka E-2 Gjon Pali II G/H/I-5 Grigor Heba I-2, J-2/3 Hajdar Hidi E/F-3 Haki Mborja J-1 Halim Xhelo E-2 Haxhi Hysen Dalliu D-3, C-3/4 Haxhi Sina C-6 Him Kolli F-3 Hoxhe Vokrri D-6 Hoxha Tahsim E/D-6 Ibrahim Dervishi I-1 Isa Boletini C/D-5 Islam Alla E/F/G-3 Ismail Qemali H-3/4/5 Jani Vreto E-5/6 Jeronim de Rada F-5 Jordan Misja A/B/C-3 Jul Varibova G-5 Justin Gadari E/F-2 Jusuf Vrioni I-2 K. Shijaku B/C-4 Kajo Karafili E-3/4 Kalaja e Tiranes F-5 Karl Gega B-4 Kavajës F-1/2/3, E-3/4 Komuna e Parisit H-2/3, I-2 Kont Urani E-3 Kristaq Mema D-2/3 Lek Dukagjini I-5, J-4

Lidhja Prizrenit I/J-4 Liman Kaba J-2/3, K-2 Luigj Gurakuqi E-4/5 Mahmut Fortuzi B/C-4 Maliq Muço D-4 Margarita Tutulani J-3/4 Medar Shtylla I/J/K-2 Mehmet Brocaj D-3 Mihal Duri E-3 Mihal Grameno G-6 Milto Tutulani I/J-3 Mine Peza C-2, D-2/3, E-3 Muhamet Gjollesha D-1/2, E-1, F-1, G-1/2, H-2 Murat Toptani F-4/5 Musa Agolli B-5 Mustafa Lleshi G-6 Mustafa Matohiti G/H-5 Myrtezim Këlliçi E/F-5 Myslym Shyri G-2/3, F-3/4 Naim Frashëri E/F-2 Nasi Pavllo H/I-6 Nikolla Lena F-2 Nikolla Tupe I-3/4, H-4 Papa Kristo Negovani C-4 Perlat Rexhepi C-4 Petro Korçari I-1 Petro Nini Luarasi F-6 Pjetër Bogdani H-3/4 Pjetër Budi H-6 Prek Bibë Doda H-2 Presidenti George W. Bush F-5 Prokop Myzeqari D-3 Qemal Guranjaku H-6 Qemal Stafa E-5, D-5/6 Ramzan Farka B-6 Reshit Çollaku F-4 Reshit Petrela B/C-4 Robert Shvare I-1 Sami Frashëri G-3 to J-4 Saraçëve D-5 Sermedin Said Toptani F-4 Shaqir Ofshafi C-5/6 Sheh Ahmet Pazari I-6 Shenasi Dishnica D/E-5 Sheshi 21 Dhjetori F-1 Sheshi Avni Rustemi E-5 Shesi Fan Noli E-5 Sheshi Italia I-5 Sheshi Nënë Tereza I-5 Sheshi Skënderbeg E/F-4 Sheshi Zogu i Zi C/D-2 Shyqyr Bërxolli E/F-3 Shyqyr Ishmi F-6 Siri Kodra B-4 Skënder Kosturi B/C-4 Skënderbeg D/E/F-2 Stavro Vinjau H/I-6 Sulejman Delvina H-2, I-2/3 Sulejman Pasha D-3/4, E-4 Tafaj C-5/6 Tefta Tashko Koço E-6 Thanas Ziko B-5/6, C-6 Themistokli Gërmenji H-5/6 Thimi Mitko E-6 Unaza C-2/3/4 V. Karapici E-6 V. Luarasi C-4/5, D-5 Vaso Pasha G/H/I/J-4 Vëllezërit Manastiri D-2 Viktor Eftimiu H-1, I-1/2 Xhezmi Delli E-2 Xhorxhi Martini E/F-5 Ymer Kurti I/J-3 Zenel Baboçi D-5

Communication How to communicate in and beyond Tirana.

EXPRESS MAIL The safest, though not the cheapest, way to send valuable or urgent items. ALBANIAN COURIER QRr. Industriale Dytësore Vorë, tel. ++355 4 222 7667/+355 4 241 0720, www.albaniancourier.al. Open 08:30-17:30; Sat 09:00-14:00; closed Sun. DHL QRr. Rruga industriale km 8. Kashar, tel. +355 4 240 6666, www.dhl.al. Open 08:00-18:00; Sat 08:00-12:00; closed Sun. EMS QRr. Frosina Plaku, Godina 36, K.1, tel. +355 68 206 67 70/+355 4 2455748, www.postashqiptare.al. Open 07:30-20:00; closed Sun. FEDEX QF‑6, Rr. Industriale, Kashar, tel. +355 4 225 3203, www.fedex.com/al /contact. Open 08:00-18:00; closed Sun. TNT QRr. Mine Peza 2, tel. +355 4223 49 14, www. tntexpress.al. Open 08:00-17:00; closed Sun. UPS QH‑4, Rr. Ismail Qemali, Nr. 32/1, tel. +355 4 225 97 43, www.ups.com/al. Open 09:00-17:30; Sat 09:00-13:00; closed Sun.

Exchange rates: €1=121 lek, $1=115 lek

TELEPHONE CALLS For international calls, dial 00, the country code, the area code and the subscriber’s number. For domestic calls outside Tirana, dial 0, the city code and the subscriber’s number. Call 14 for domestic directory assistance. Local calls: Tirana numbers have seven digits, all starting with a 2 or a 3. Call 124 for international or 14 for domestic directory assistance. To call Albania from abroad, dial 00 and the country code 355, the city code (Tirana is 4) and subscriber number, or the mobile phone number without the initial zero. Selected Albanian city codes: Berat 32, Durrës 52, Elbasan 54, Gjirokastër 84, Korça 82, Kruja 511, Sarandë 85, Shkodër 22, Tiranë 4, Vlorë 47. 66 Tirana In Your Pocket

INTERNET Wifi has conquered Albania quickly. All hotels and most restaurants, cafés and bars have a network you can use for free - the staff is usually happy to hand over the password. Tirana Municipality has over 90 wifi hotpots offering free and safe surfing, filtered for harmful content; look for Tirana Free Wifi along the main square and boulevard, the market and the lake.

INTERNET PROVIDERS ABCOM (ABCOM- VODAFONE ALBANIA) Broadband internet, data transmission, VPN, wifi, hosting, e-mail solutions, digital cable TV and telephony services. QRr. Pavaresia, Kashar 61, www.vodafone.al/abcom. Open 09:00-21:00. ABISSNET QRr. Ismail Qemali 18, tel. 355 4 430 00 01/+355 4 430 0123, www.abissnet.al. Open 09:00-20:00. TRING QRr. Qelqit, Kombinat, tel. +355 4 480 00 00/+355 69 403 80 00, www.tring.al.

MOBILE PHONES Albania has three mobile network providers, their numbers starting with 067, 068 and 069. You can easily purchase pre-paid SIM cards for around 600 lek at the providers’ shops; you’ll need ID and a local address (which can be that of your hotel). Vodafone has a 1500 lek SIM package for tourists with 20GB data, 500 minutes of calling in Albanian and 10 minutes abroad. National rates for pre-paid calls are between 30-55 lek per minute. ALBTELECOM Qtel. +355 67 200 01 23, www.albtelecom.al. ONE Qtel. +355 4 227 5000/+355 68 800 0142, www.one.al. VODAFONE Qtel. +355 4 228 30 72, www.vodafone.al.

POST Postal rates for postcards and letters (under 20gr) are: Albania 20 lek Balkans 70 lek Europe 90 lek Elsewhere 100 lek CENTRAL POST OFFICE Parcels are processed between 08:00-13:00.QF‑4, Rr. Reshit Çollaku 4, tel. +355 68 204 47 27/+355 68 204 47 07, www. postashqiptare.al. Open 08:00-16:30; Fri 08:00-14:00.

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s n a k Bal

CONTACT US: LANDWAYS Address: “Rr. Themistokli Germenji” Nr.10, Po .Box 1430 Tirana, Albania Tel +355 4 2 255 655 WWW.LANDWAYS.EU

U N LO C K ALBANIA

Airport office e-mail: klevis.bejleri@avis.al tel: +355 67 60 12 272

Downtown office e-mail: genti.baboci@avis.al tel: +355 67 60 38 900

Tirana In Your Pocket 2022

Articles inside

Communications

Tirana map & Street index

Directory

Where to Stay

Cafés

Shopping

Nightlife

Basics

Sightseeing

Where to Eat

Arriving & Transport

Culture & Events

Day trip: Kruja

History

Feature: Farm to Table