Tartu In Your Pocket 2022

Welcome to Tartu

As Estonia’s second-largest city, Tartu boasts plenty to see, do, eat and drink. It is best known as Estonia’s student capital thanks to the University of Tartu, which was established in 1632 and is one of the oldest universities in Europe. The large population of students in Tartu makes it a city with vibrant nightlife, booming cultural scene and much more. It is after all the ‘City

of Good Thoughts’,

and don’t be surprised if you happen to make some new friends while exploring it.

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION

We truly hope you have a safe stay in Tartu, but in case you should have any sort of emergency then here’s what you need to know:

For the ambulance, police and rescue services dial 112

TARTU VISITOR CENTRE

Located in the beautiful, old Town Hall, the Tartu Visitor Centre is a full-service affair. It provides travel tips on all of Estonia, but of particular interest is the wealth of information available for Southern Estonia. Here they’ll help you find tour guides, hold onto your luggage and even sell you some cool Tartu trinkets. There are three internet terminals, free for tourists and exhibitions on the city of Tartu in an adjoining room. Q Raekoja plats 1A (Town Hall), tel. +372 744 21 11, www.visittartu.com. From May 15 to September 15 open Mon 09:00-18:00, Tue - Fri 09:00-17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-16:00. From September 16 to May 14 open Mon 09:00-18:00, Tue-Sat 09:00-17:00. Sun closed.

Emergency medical services are offered by Tartu University Hospital, L. Puusepa 8, tel. +372 731 91 00, http://www.kliinikum.ee.

Other type of, ehem, emergencies may be resolved by the use of publictoilets.There are several public facilities around town and in the one located at Vabaduse pst.4. It costs €0.20, and for €1.60 you can take a 15-minute shower here. as well The facility is set up for disabled people and even offers services such as ironing and towel rental - more information is available on-site. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

A handy map marking the public toilets as well as taps for filling your drinking water can be found here.

Tartu at night. Shutterstock.

Arriving & Getting around

ARRIVING IN

Even ifTartu is your final destination, it’s likely that your first stop in the Baltics will be Tallinn or Riga. Pick up the appropriate In Your Pocket guide to learn the intricacies of arriving in those cities.

BY BUS

For anyone without a car, the bus is a convenient way to get from Tallinn to Tartu. Each day more than 30 express buses make the 2.5-hour trip from the capital, departing from Tallinn’s bus station (bussijaam) at Lastekodu 46. See www.tpilet.ee for a complete schedule and prices. Buses arrive at Tartu’s bus station atTuru 2. Getting to town: Taxis are usually standing out front, but you’re only a 5-minute walk from the heart of Tartu.

BUSSTATION

Tartu’s bus station might be small but it is very centrally located. It’s best to buy your tickets from the booths or machines inside the station, but you can usually also purchase tickets directly from the driver if space is available.  QTuru 2 (next to Tasku Centre), tel. +372 680 09 00, www. tpilet.ee. Open 06:00-21:00.

BY TRAIN

For those coming fromTallinn, Estonia’s shiny, new trains offer a fast and comfortable way to reach Tartu at roughly the same price as the buses. Eleven trains make the trip from Tallinn’s Balti Jaam train station each day (info at www.elron.ee). Rides take about 2 to 2.5 hours, depending on whether it’s an express train. The trains have free WiFi throughout. Booking your seats in advance is recommended as the trains tend to fill up, especially on Fridays and Sundays. Travelling to Tartu by train is very convenient but the one drawback - especially if you’re travelling with more than a backpack - is that the station in Tartu is a bit of a hike from the centre.

Getting to town: Tartu’s train station, located at (B-3) Vaksali 6, is about 1.5km from the centre, so walking isn’t out of the question. A taxi should only cost about €4-5. Buses N°3 and N°25 take you to the centre, and N°25 rides all the way to the Estonian National Museum if that’s where you’re headed.

TRAINSTATION

The station offers a spacious waiting hall and a placetobuysnacksandhousesalovelycaféWedur. Tickets can be purchased online or from an agent on the train (credit cards accepted).Tickets to/from Tallinn cost €10.60 - €12. First class costs a tiny bit more and doesn’t give you many perks. For more information see www.elron.ee or call.QVaksali 6, tel. +372 616 02 45 (24h). Open 06:00-20:15.

Although Tartu is Estonia’s second largest city, it’s not exactly a metropolis and is quite easy to navigate.

TARTU

Tartu train station. Photo: Phil Richards

GETTING AROUND

If you’re based in the centre, you can pretty much get everywhere on foot, it’s also a great place for cycling, scootering or using any other form of electric/peddle power. Taxis or ride alternatives such as Bolt or Uber are however available, if you happen to need to get somewhere a little further out, to haul a bunch of shopping, or just want a speedy trip from point A to B. Public transport is also both very efficient and inexpensive depending on the route and or what your travel needs are. Both long distance bus and a quite excellent train service also operate between Tallinn-Tartu and more exotic Estonian locations. Car hire is also a good option if you’ll be in the city for some days and yearn for a bit of a roadtrip in Tartu County and beyond.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

Taking a bus is a convenient way to get around in Tartu. Buy a one-hour ticket from the bus driver for €2, or, if you’re going to be riding frequently, go to a kioskandpay€2foranelectronicpasscardorsticker, which you then load with credit. Be sure to validate your pass once on board or risk a hefty fine if an inspector catches you. The cards automatically give you the cheapest rate, be it a 1-hour ticket (€1.50), a 1-day ticket (€3.75) or a 5-day ticket (€12.75). More info about tickets and routes as well as time tables can be found here.

TAXIS

Taxi fares are basically made up of a starting fee and then a per-kilometre charge. Another option is to use one of the numerous taxi ordering apps like Bolt,Taxigo, Forus or Uber.

ELEKTRITAKSO €2.90 + €0.69/km.

Qtel. +372 58 85 88 00/1918, www.elektritakso.ee

TAKSO ÜKS €2.80 + €0.65/km.

Qtel. +372 742 00 00/1210, www.taksod.ee

TARTU TAKSOPARK €2.95 + €0.69/km.Qtel. +372 730 02 00/1200, www.gotaksopark.ee

TARTU SMART BIKE SHARE

There are 69 bike rental points aroundTartu, offering 750 bikes, of which 510 are electric (which can be used only when temperatures are above 0°C). Bikes can be unlocked using a Tartu bus pass (bus pass must be linked to your bike share account) or via the Tartu Smart Bike app, and are available free of charge for those who can ride free onTartu buses, as well as those with the following active bus tickets: 10, 30, or 90 day ticket.   Qwww. ratas.tartu.ee. Bike share membership fee is €1/ hour, €5/day or €10/week.

PARKING

Driving to Tartu is easy, but finding convenient parking in the city centre might not be, especially during working hours. Public parking in the centre, either on the street or in small lots, is generally a paid service on weekdays from 08:00 - 18:00. Weekends and public holidays are free, except for the most central zone. Parking costs €1.5 - 3, depending on the zone. Detailed info on parking can be found here.

Alternately you can opt for a private lot at the Kvartal, Kaubamaja or Tasku shopping centres. All are reasonably priced and centrally located. More info here.

KVARTAL PARKING

First hour free, after that €1/hr. QRiia 2, www. kvartal.com.ee. Open 24hrs.

TARTU KAUBAMAJA PARKING

First hour free, second hour €0.60, and €1/hr from then on. QRiia 1, tel. +372 731 48 00, www. tartukaubamaja.ee. Open 09:00-22:00; Sun 10:0020:00.

TASKU PARKING

Parking on 2-4 floor: first hour free, €1/hr after that and a day charge €5 is applied if you park for 6 - 24 hours. Q Turu 2, tel. +372 661 02 23, www. tasku.ee. Open 24hrs.

Culture & Events

Tartu has a burgeoning cultural scene, and is often considered the cradle of Estonian culture, given its ties to the University as well as being the birthplace of many Estonian independence awakening movements throughout history. Each year there are many special events in the city, many of which have even outgrown Tartu and spread to other Estonian cities.

ART GALLERIES & EXHIBITIONS GALERII PALLAS

Located just a short walk from the centre, the Pallas University of Applied Sciences’‘Youth Gallery’ naturally showcases works by the best and the most promising of the student body. Some of the art displayed here also showcases the bodies of promising students - naturally. Check the list of exhibitions from website.QRiia 11, tel. +372 734 99 54, www.pallasart.ee/pallase-galerii-janaitused/. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Sun, Mon. Admission free.

KOGO GALLERY

CULTURAL VENUES

Perhaps the biggest powerhouse of culture in Tartu is the Vanemuine Theatre has been operating in its current location since 1967 and they regularly put on operas, ballets, dramas, modern dance performances and musicals in addition to various types of theatre. The same building is home to the Vanemuine Concert Hall. There are also several other smaller theatres worth checking out as well, such as the Tartu Uus Teater, Black Box Theatre, Emajõgi Summer Theatre, and the Karlova Theatre. For theatre fans, there is truly no lack of choice in the city, perhaps the hardest part is trying to fit it all in to your schedule. You’ll also find no shortage of performances that also provide English subtitles - just in case that app that was promised to teach you Estonian in 30 min, happens to not work out so well for you.

If the cinema grabs your attention more so than ballet or live theatre, Hollywood beckons from the Apollo cinema. Here you can catch all the latest that the mainstream film industry has to offer, as well as local and even some art films. Please note that most films will be in English with Estonian subtitles, the main exception to the rule are films geared towards the younger audience, which are usually dubbed into Estonian, or Russian in some cases.

Kogo is a contemporary art gallery representing outstanding emerging and mid-career Estonian and international artists of all media.The gallery is focused on solo artist projects, curatorial projects, and exhibitions born out of cooperation between artists.The gallery is particularly passionate about supporting artistic freedom, interdisciplinarity, and fresh ideas. Check the gallery’s website or Facebook page for current and upcoming exhibitions. QKastani 42, tel. +372 557 75 92, www. kogogallery.ee. Open Wed, Thu, Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat 13:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun.

TARTU ART HOUSE

RunbytheTartuArtists’Union,theTartuArtHouse has gallery rooms on two floors. Check their website for the current exhibitions.  QVanemuise 26, tel. +372 742 76 71, www.kunstimaja.ee. Open 12:00-18:00; closed Tue. Admission free.

TARTU ART MUSEUM

This museum in Tartu’s famous ‘Leaning House’ hosts temporary exhibitions on its ground floor, while upper floors present works by great Estonian artists of the past.  QRaekoja plats 18, tel. +372 58 81 78 11, www.tartmus.ee. Open 11:0018:00; Thu 11:00-20:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission €6, reduced €4, family €8.

TARTU CENTRE FOR CREATIVE INDUSTRIES

Tartu Centre for Creative Industries is located in Tartu at Kalevi 13, 15 and 17 and Lutsu 5 and 3, where the popular concert venue Antonius Courtyard is situated. The centre provides both business incubation services and longterm rental spaces to creative entrepreneurs. Conference and seminar rooms and outdoor areas for various events are also available for rent. Catering can be ordered from Café Spargel at Kalevi 13. The houses on Kalevi Street are home to both fledgling creative businesses and already established designers whose studios are open for visits.QKalevi 13 and 17, www.lmk.ee.

BEAUTY OF COLOURS

Golden Age of Estonian Art from the Enn Kunila Collection 19 February – 2 October 2022

GLASSPERLENSPIEL

Inspired by Herman Hesse’s novel of the same name, the festival Glasperlenspiel (“The Glass Bead Game“), taking place in Tartu, brings together excellent ensembles and talented musicians from home and abroad, offering a very diverse programme that is open to different art forms and discovers enriching connections between music and other fields.

Please check www.erpmusic.com/events/ glasperlenspiel-festival-2022 for detailed info.

Estonian National Museum Muuseumi tee 2, Tartu erm.ee

Glassperlenspiel (The Israeli Baroque Orchestra Barrocade and Estonian chamber choir Voces Tallinn.)

Sightseeing & Attractions

A large part of Tartu’s charm is that it’s an incredibly easy city to explore on foot. The most interesting bits are all concentrated in the same general area, with the historic Old Town flanked on one side by the leafy Toome Hill and on the other by the peaceful Emajõgi river.

ESSENTIAL WALKING TOUR

Tartu is made up of a few districts, each with its own unique charm. If you really want to get a feel for the city, we suggest renting a bike to get around town.

In a kind of ironic twist of fate, for the best modern-day view of the city, head up to Tartu’s most historic, and oldest location, which just so happens to be on Toomemägi Hill. Here you get some spectacular vistas of the Emajõgi River, running through the heart of the city, the valley and all the shining structures built in recent years.

But before you head down to check out the river area, on the hill itself there are some great attractions. One of the most important and pivotal of which are the Cathedral Ruins which dates back to the 13th Century. The massive redbrick structure was the main cathedral in the city, but was heavily damaged during the Livonian War and finally finished off by fire in 1624. After some years of dormancy, when the University of Tartu reopened in 1804, the largely intact choir end of the building was renovated and turned into a library. Now it houses the University of Tartu Museum. The towers can be explored from May through September and the museum is also worth a visit. Toomemägi Hill houses several University of Tartu buildings, including the Old Anatomical Theatre, which is not creepy in the slightest.Unfortunatelythebuildingisnotopento the public, however, the university’s collection of

decently creepy, formaldahyde-preserved‘bodies and parts’ that the theatre used to house are on display at the Science Centre AHHAA. If you are perhaps a little interested in the macro vision of the universe, the Old Tartu Observatory is truly a unique experience. It was here that the calculations were done by astronomer Friedrich Georg Wilhelm Struve when he came up with the Geodetic Arc between 1816 and 1855. It basically enabled the way to establish the exact size of our planet, kind of a big deal and is now a Unesco World Heritage site.

A couple of other things worth taking in on the hill are two bridges, one is the Angel’s Bridge, and the other - naturally the Devil’s Bridge. They are fairly easy to find, each comes with its own lore, and you’ll certainly be able to tell which one is which. Numerous monuments dedicated to, well, monumental things or people are also scattered atop the hill and are also worth a look.

Angel bridge

Cathedral ruins, home to University of Tartu Museum

Head down the hill and you’ll end up back in the centre, and right at Town Hall Square. Here you’ll see the beautiful Old Town Hall building (especially lovely when its all lit up at night), and a large fountain right in front of it - the ‘Kissing Students’ fountain has become one of Tartu’s endearing symbols, and you’ll see why once you gaze upon it.

From here, you have several optionsyou can wander the streets of Old Town, using Rüütli street as a reference point, and take in the impressive architecture, discovering some great boutiques and specialty shops, cafés, as well as bars and restaurants. It’s on these side streets in Old Town that you will discover the fantastically restored, brick Gothic St. John’s Church and admire the beautiful view of the city from the church’s viewing platform. The city’s beating heart is its university and student life. Tartu University was established in 1632 and is one of the oldest universtities in Europe. The classically pillared University of Tartu Main Building.

BOAT TOUR

PEGASUS (RIVERBOAT)

If you have a thing for boats or just want to see Tartu and the surrounding areas with the waves under your feet, the Pegasus will whisk you away for a one hour cruise up the Emajõgi River. Regular boat tours launch from a dock next to the Dorpat Hotel June through August

Tuesday - Friday 12:00, 14:00 and SaturdaySunday 12:00, 14:00, 16:00. Tickets cost €10, reduced €6 - 8, family (2 adults & 2 up to 16-yrolds) €20. Private bookings available as well.

QSoola 6, tel. +372 737 10 43, www. dorpat.ee/ et/joelaevpegasus.

The University of Tartu Art Museum is also located here, and it is definitely on our list of places to visit, especially if you are into the fine arts. Or you can head straight towards the river, also passing numerous eateries (filled with terraces in the warmer months). One more site on Town Hall Square that should not be missed is the famous Leaning House, which certainly seems to defy gravity and is rather impressive to say the least, currently housing Tartu Art Museum. Just beyond that you’ll confront the infamous arched Walking bridge, which was built to replace the original and ornate one that stood for centuries before an untimely end during WW2. The current structure is not without its own tales and controversies, mostly involving students - we’ll just leave it at that.

University of Tartu main building

Now that you’ve arrived at the Emajõgi River, enjoy a leisurely walk or stop into one of the restaurants or cafés that overlook it. It’s kind of a big deal in Tartu, the history and importance of the river to Tartu, and even Estonia go back at least a thousand years. Here you can usually find all the locals by the riverside when numerous popup cafés and bars open for the warmer season (which we’ll cover more in Restaurants and Nighlife sections). You can also experience the river on a guided tour or cruise with one of the many operators in the area.

The positively eccentric districts of Supilinn and Karlova are a must. Supilinn or Soup Town is known for its colourful wooden houses, and streets named after vegetables. Karlova is known for its quaint cafés and shops, as well as its ornate colourful houses. Visit the Aparaaditehas, an old Soviet-era factory that has now been converted into a creative space for local artists, design shops, restaurants and events.

of Tartu’. The focus is on the tailor-made, personalised solo or small-group experiences. Outside of Tartu, they offer intimate and enticing ‘undiscovered’ highlights of South Estonia - personal and special meetings with the locals, opportunities to ask questions, and have a dialogue.The Russian Old Believers’“fish and onion”villages of Lake Peipsi, their wonderful secret“notes”from ancient Byzantine, but also the rich slopes of beautiful Mulgimaa, the mysterious Viljandi region, sportive and green Otepää and UNESCO-listed famous Leelo-song cradle Setomaa are among some of the trips you can choose from. All tours are tailor-made to suit your interests, and are available in both English or Swedish. Please pre-book all the tours and activities at info@babelhouse.eeQtel. ( +372) 51 17 138/+372 58 87 85 52, www. babelhouse.ee/en.

TARTU GUIDES ASSOCIATION

GUIDED TOURS

If you’re interested in tours ofTartu, you can check out any of the operators we have listed here, check www.visittartu.com website or you can pay a visit to the Tartu Visitor Centre at Town Hall Square and they’ll help you find qualified guides. Allow at least one and a half hours, preferably more, to see the main points in town.

BABELHOUSE

Babelhouse provides professional cultural tours. In the rich choice of offers there are also gourmet and experience trips, exciting solo trips and those with a special edge - like the ‘Early morning Tartu walk’, ‘The university ensamble’, or ‘The markets’ , ‘Walk on the river coast’ and ‘The wooden areas

Tartu Guides Association is the place to turn to when you want to discover Tartu in company of a local professional tour guide. Their guides come from different fields of life and cultural backgrounds and are keen on sharing their local insight into past and present day Tartu. They can take you both to the most known or less visited, but charming or otherwise interesting places in Tartu and tell you about the current developments and future plans of the city.

Altogether they offer tours in ten different languages. To book a tour, see website for details and contact a tour guide directly. Tour guides operate on all four seasons of the year. Qwww. tartugiid.ee/en.

Bablehouse tours

Tartu tour guides. Photo: Maero Pukk

Tartu Guides Association. Photo: DEO rejser

ESTONIAN NATIONAL MUSEUM

If there’s one iconic, over-the-top, must-see tourist attraction in Tartu, it’s this super-modern facility where you can learn anything and everythingabouttheEstoniannation.Somassive that they had to find an old airfield to fit it on, the ERM, as the locals call it, comes with 6,000 square metres of exhibition space, an art gallery, its own cinema, a library, a restaurant and a café. One permanent exhibition, ‘Encounters’, walks you through the entirety of Estonian history from the Stone Age to this morning, with fascinating side rooms that delve into topics like language and cuisine. Downstairs, ‘Echo of the Urals’ tells the story of the Finno-Ugric peoples. A guided tour will race you through both exhibits in 1.5 hours, otherwise plan to spend 3 to 6 hours exploring at your own leisurely pace.

Through October 02, 2022, a temporary exhibition“Beauty of Colors. Golden Age of Estonian Art from the Enn Kunila collection” presents works by the most important Estonian painters from the first half of the 20th century.

Getting there: It’s a 20-minute walk from the centre, but you can take bus N°7 from ‘Soola’ stop next to Tasku shopping mall or ‘Vabaduse’ stop next to the Market hall to the ERM stop. And especially handy if you’re coming from the train station, bus N°25 also goes to ERM while stopping in the city centre at‘Kesklinn’,‘Turu’and ‘Soola’ stops. Q Muuseumi tee 2, tel. +372 736 30 51, www.erm.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission €14, reduced €10, family €28. There are various special ticket prices depending on exhibitions, please check the website for more info: www.erm.ee/en

KGB CELLS MUSEUM

As if you needed more reasons to dislike the KGB... The KGB Cells Museum is housed in Tartu’s infamous ‘Grey House’ which was the regional KGB headquarters in the 1940s and 50s. Apart from the lock-ups themselves, the museum has extensive exhibits on deportations, life in the gulags and Estonian resistance movements. Q Riia 15b, tel. +372 746 17 17, www.muuseum. tartu.ee/en/kgb-cells-museum. Open 11:0017:00; closed Sun, Mon. Admission €5, reduced €2, family €10. Joint ticket to Tartu City Museum and all of its branches is €15.

Impressive inside and out - the Estonian National Museum. Photo: Claudio Parada Nunes

KGB Cells Museum

OLD OBSERVATORY

This grand building was the university’s original observatory, founded in 1810, and now houses one of university’s museum branches. Its most famousdirector,F.G.W. Struve (in charge 1820 - 1839) installed what was then the most powerful telescope in the world. A shiny plaqueinfronthonours Struve’s Geodetic Arc, a string of survey triangulations stretching 2,820km from Norway to the Black Sea. The arc was put on UNESCO’s Cultural Heritage List in 2005. The museum takes visitors through the observatory’s history from the early-19th-century right up until the time of the Soviet space program. Here visitors can check out antique stargazing devices, try several interactive exhibits and climb outside for city views. Old-school planetary shows done on a mechanical projector will help you keep your zodiac signs straight. Q Uppsala 8, tel. +372 737 69 32, www.tahetorn.ut.ee. From May to September open 12:00-18:00, closed Mon,Tue. From October to April open only on Saturdays 11:00-17:00. Admission €4, reduced €3, family €10, planetarium admission €3. Joint ticket for University of Tartu Museum, Old Observatory and University of Tartu Art Museum is €9-14, families €24-27.

OSKAR LUTS HOME MUSEUM

Often referred to as the ‘Estonian Dickens’, Oskar Luts (1887 - 1953) wrote touching stories that continue to be near and dear to the hearts of all Estonians. His most famous novel Kevade (Spring), published in 1912, has been adapted into plays, ballets and even a well-known film. Set in the house Luts lived in for the last years of his life, this museum displays an extensive exhibition on his life and works, and includes a his quaint old sitting room, preserved for posterity. Q Riia 38, tel. +372 746 10 30, www.muuseum.tartu.ee/ en/oskar-luts-home-museum. Open 11:00-17:00; closed Sun, Mon, Tue. Museum is closed July 126. Free of charge.

SONG FESTIVAL MUSEUM

Located in the wonderfully restored nineteenthcentury Vanemuine society house, this museum exhibits and showcases the history and ideas behindEstonia’smostpowerfuldisplayofnational identity – The Song Festival. The heart and soul of the collection here is a permanent exhibit entitled ‘Carrying Our Own Tune’, which looks at what makes singing together so powerful and celebrates 150th anniversary of the first Estonian Song Festival. Q Jaama 14, tel. +372 746 10 20, www.muuseum.tartu.ee/en/the-tartu-songfestival-museum. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Sun, Mon. Admission €5, reduced €3, family €8. Joint ticket to Tartu City Museum and all of its branches is €15.

SONG CELEBRATION MUSEUM

TARTU CITY MUSEUM

The best overview of Tartu’s history can be found at the City Museum, housed in a beautiful, 18thcentury mansion just across the river from Old Town. Permanent exhibition is ‘Dorpat. Yuryev. Tartu.’ and it covers all the major periods. One can learn about the brick structures of the Medieval era, the aftermath of the Livonian war, 18th century handicraft, the signing of the allimportant Tartu Peace Treaty and more. Q Narva mnt. 23, tel. +372 746 19 11, www.muuseum. tartu.ee/en/tartu-linnamuuseum. Open 11:0018:00; closed Mon,Tue. Admission €5, reduced €3, family €10. Joint ticket to Tartu City Museum and all of its branches is €15, reduced €8, family €25.

TARTU TOY MUSEUM ANDTHEATREHOUSE

With more toys than even the most shamefully spoiled of children could possibly imagine, this museum could easily keep most youngsters, and probably more than a few adults, wide-eyed for hours. Here you’ll see everything from antique paper pop-ups and a 130-year old doll to an elaborate electric train set that will move if you drop in a coin. Upstairs is a free playroom for kids. Your ticket includes entry to the neighbouring Theatre House which displays puppets and archeology in its low cellar.Tall visitors are supplied with hard hats. Q Lutsu 2 and 8, tel. +372 746 17 77, www.mm.ee. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue. Play room open 11:00-16:00, closed Mon, Tue. Admission €8, kids €6, family €20.

journey through time and space. Perhaps the objects reverently made by people who lived in ancient times can also help us understand their way of thinking, which is not so unfamiliar to us, the people of the 21st century – the wish to be beautiful and prosperous, possess power and a home, to entertain and revitalise the soul.

The museum also offers tours of the fabulously decorated Assembly Hall (aula) andthebuilding’s weirdest feature, the Student Lock-up where, in the 19th Century, students were incarcerated for minor offences. The punishment for returning a library book late was 2 days. Insulting a cloakroom attendant would get you 5 days, and duelling, 3 weeks. Cartoons and graffiti the students scribbled still cover the walls.You can experience a complete virtual tour of the university by logging on to  www.ut.ee/virtualtour. Q Ülikooli 18, tel. +372 737 53 85, www.kunstimuuseum.ut.ee. From May to September open 10:00-18:00, closed Sun. From October to April open 11:00-17:00, closed Sun, Mon. Admission to entire building €6, reduced €4, family €14. Art Museum only €4, reduced €3, family €10. Joint ticket for University of Tartu Museum, Old Observatory and University of Tartu Art Museum is €9-14, families €24-27.

UNIVERSITY OF TARTU MAIN BUILDING & ART MUSEUM

Built in 1809 just after the Tartu University’s reopening, this grand, neo-classical structure is the symbol of Estonia’s biggest brain factory. The building holds three main attractions for visitors. Among Estonia’s oldest museums, the University of Tartu Art Museum, displays plaster cast copies of ancient Greek and Roman sculptures as well as the not-to-miss ‘Chamber of Mummies’. The exhibition “From Ancient and Forgotten Times. The Things Necessary for a Good Life” focuses on objects that take us on a brief cultural

University of Tartu Art Museum

Tartu Toy Museum and Theatre House

University of Tartu main bulding

UNIVERSITY OF TARTU MUSEUM

One of three branches of the university’s museum (with Art Museum and Old Observatory), the division housed in the city’s famous Tartu Cathedral chronicles the history of the university from its founding in 1632 to the present time and also of the building. Its well-presented collection with the fascinating University Treasury, Morgernstern Hall and Parrot’s office brings the story of the institution to life. Little ones will be intrigued by the ‘The Crazy Scientist’s Office’ with many hands-on attractions and interactive fun. From May through September, the same ticket will let you climb the cathedral towers for some great city views. On June 29, the museum opens a new exhibition “Heaps of happiness!? An exhibition on well-being, mental health, and balance”. The exhibition explores what makes people happy and highlights issues of mental health and coping. We share practical tips for concentrating on our positive inner strength and make conscious efforts towards a better life. Q Lossi 25, tel. +372 737 56 74, www.muuseum.ut.ee. From May to September open 10:00-18:00, closed Mon. From October to April open 11:00-17:00, closed Mon, Tue.Cathedraltowers’viewingplatformsareopen from May till September, Tue - Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Admission from May to September €7, reduced €6, family €17; from October to April €6, €5, €14, respectively. Joint ticket for University of Tartu Museum, Old Observatory and University ofTartu Art Museum is €9-14, families €24-27.

UNIVERSITY OF TARTU NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM

The recent update puts this curious institution among Tartu’s most contemporary museums while the title of its permanent exhibition,‘Earth. Life. Story.’tells you everything you need to know about what’s inside. As Estonia’s oldest museum, displays cover geology, meteorites, fossils and evolution, but the bulk of the space is taken up by all varieties of creatures great and small, safely behind glass. Explanatory texts are in Estonian and English. Q Vanemuise 46, tel. +372 737 60 76, www.natmuseum.ut.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission €8, reduced €4, family €16.

University of Tartu Museum

Cathedral ruins

UniversityOfTartu NaturalHistoryMuseum

University ofTartu Botanical Gardens

SOMETHING DIFFERENT UNIVERSITY OF TARTU BOTANICAL GARDENS

The university’s botanical gardens isn’t just about studying and classifying plant species. It’s also a peaceful place where visitors can stop and smell the roses - quite literally. You can escape the northern climate in the steamy, jungle-like palm house, which has its own fish pond and tropical birds. The gardens hold 9,000 plant species from all climatic zones of the world, making it the most species-dense area in the entire Estonia. Be sure to check out both of the greenhouses. Q Lai 38, tel. +372 737 61 80, www.botaanikaaed.ut.ee.

April 15 - October 15 open 07:00-21:00; October 16 - April 14 open 07:00-19:00. Greenhouses open 10:00-17:00. Admission to greenhouses €3, reduced €2, family €8.

Upside Down House

Upside Down House

UPSIDE DOWN HOUSE

Located just a hop, skip and a jump away from the Estonian National Museum and its dramatic structure, the Upside Down House will challenge your perception of reality – if it doesn’t, we’ll be happy to refer you to a very good psychiatrist. For those that aren’t quite sure, the whole house has actually been built upside down and all the furnishings have been attached to the walls or ceilings, or floors, or... we’ll let you be the judge. While we think it would be quite a challenge to live here (especially using the toilet or having a bath), it’s certainly worth a visit. The attention to detail here is fantastic and is the perfect place to take some funky selfies, although most of the situations one can get themselves into here will probably require the assistance of a friend. Oh, and if you think you can handle more dimensional confusion, we dare you to rent a pair of reversal goggles which will ... you got it, turn your view upside down! What will they do in an upside down house? You’ll have to discover that one out on your own.QD-1, Roosi 86, tel. +372 56 88 18 11, www.tagurpidimaja.ee. Open 10:00-18:00. Admission €8.50, reduced €7, family €24.

Around Tartu Around Tartu

Tartu County boasts beautiful countryside. To the east, explore the relatively undeveloped sandy coastline of Lake Peipsi, one on Europe’s largest lakes, and learn about the Old Believers and visit their quaint lakeside villages.

Vooremaa - the land of drumlins and lakes (see featured). And Elva city and region, home to the Tartu Observatory, Akva:rium Lake Museum and Musical Instruments Museum. There is a lot to see and do around Tartu - please check here more information on Tartu County.

ATTRACTIONS

Tartu County’s biggest attractions on top of Estonian Agricultural Museum and Lange Motocentre, include Estonian Aviation Museum displaying about 25 aircrafts, including helicopters, fighter jets, passenger planes and even a Soviet-era bomber, the inside of the exhibition house is filled with glass cases containing more than 400 model aircraft, fighters and bombers of every type and manufacture from around the world.

Estonian Road Museum a features a permanent exhibition about the history of roads and communications, and one-of-a-kind outdoor exhibition ‘Road Time’ lets you stroll through the centuries, catching a glimpse of vehicles of both the past and future.

Akva:rium Lake Museum tells you everything you ever wanted to know about freshwater fish in Estonia but were afraid to ask.The museum houses 15 indoor tanks filled with swimming creatures and their plant friends. In the warmer months they even have a few outdoor enclosures for their guests to peruse.

ESTONIAN AGRICULTURAL MUSEUM

Just outsideTartu is this sprawling outdoor museum set up on the grounds of what was the Ülenurme manor house. The museum explores every aspect of Estonian agriculture, from the old days of hand plows to modern horticulture. In an addition to antique carriages, harnesses and flax-making equipment, there’s a re-created poultry shed complete with stuffed birds and recorded chirping. There are real, live animals here too (cow, goats, sheep, rabbits, chickens) and pony rides for little visitors. An extensive collection of old farm machinery (tractors and such) is lined up in rows in the courtyard. Getting there: Take bus N°37 next to Tartu Kaubamaja (see Shopping section for details) to Ülenurme keskus stop (about a 15-minute ride).QPargi 4, Ülenurme, 7km from Tartu along Vőru road, tel. +372 738 38 10/+372 58 55 66 44, www.maaelumuuseumid.ee/ en/estonian-agricultural-museum. From June till August open 10:00-18:00, closed Mon, Tue. From September till Mayl open 09:00-17:00, closed Mon, Tue. Admission €6, reduced €4, family €12.

LANGE MOTO CENTRE

As the largest motocross centre in Estonia, Lange offers something for every fan, and even boasts the largest indoor go-kart track in Scandinavia. They have three different extreme tracks for every taste and their outdoor karting track is the longest track in South Estonia. The karting circuit offers a 9-meter wide track with the length of 1015 meters, wild climbs and falls that gives adrenaline rush to both children and adults. The indoor karting hall allows you to drive all year round, not depending on the weather. The total length of the karting track is 450 meters and the width is 6 meters. Extremely comfortable electric karts are easy to control for both beginners and experienced riders. And third, their most beloved and modern motocross track in the Baltics, is a 1650-meter long clay+sand mix track where every year they host international championships with hundreds of participants across the world and thousands of spectators. And there’s more at Lange Motocentre - from a sauna to a café to a conference centre, and all of it located just under 10km fromTartu city centre. QLange village, Kastre parish, tel. +372 615 00 59, www.langemotokeskus.com/ en. Price is 20€ for a 10-minute ride in a single seater kart and 25€ for a two seater kart.

Tartu is certainly a fun and fascinating city, but it’s also the centre of Tartu County and a launching point for travel to other parts of Southern Estonia. There are quite a few interesting things to do in this part of the country.

Estonian Agricultural Museum

Activities Activities

Sure, you can admire Tartu’s sights and check out the local museums, but if you’ve got the time and or are looking for something cool, hands-on or sporty with the family - or just by yourself - we’ve got a few interesting options listed here.

ACTION AND DISCOVERY

For a truly exciting and hands-on experience, both kids and adults will find plenty to do among the interactive exhibits at the AHHAA Science Centre

Another venue that offers hours worth of entertainment and a possibility to learn something new is Tartu’s Nature House, a small green oasis in the middle of the city.

Anothergreatfamilyactivityisbowling,whichyou can do at Funbowling. Pool and snooker tables await at Baribal where you can also challenge yourself at their new shuffleboard table.

For a more sporty activity, head to Tartu Adventure Park. This ‘heights-oriented’, treetop adventure park offers a fantastic opportunity to those who’ve never experienced this kind of bird’s-eye (or sometimes squirrel’s-eye) view of the world. They also have an indoor adventure park in Lõunakeskus shopping centre with three different trails.

For less adrenaline-filled sporty activities, check out Tähtvere Leisure Park at Laulupeo street - there’s an 850m asphalt track for roller-blading and roller-skiing, a wood-chip track for running and Nordic walking, and an 18-hole disc-golf course and hiking trails (1.3 km & 5 km). It’s also the largest skateboard/BMX park in the Baltics. In winter, there’s a 850m and a 1.3 km track for skiing - these are lit until 23:00 so there’s no need to bring a flashlight. Equipment for most of

the above can be rented on the spot. There are different attractions for children as well.

You don’t need to wait for the winter for this traditionallywinteryactivity. Astri Arena ice rink - Tartu’s indoor ice rink inside the town’s biggest shopping mall, Lõunakeskus. The kids skate, the parents shop, everyone wins. Call ahead or check the website to make sure ice time is available.

TARTU NATURE HOUSE

Tartu’s Nature House is a small green oasis in the middle of the city. The innovative and sustainably built house offers environmental education and activities for the whole family. At the heart of the centre is the winter garden where you’ll find various exotic plant species, as well as tortoises. In the animal room, you can meet dozens of furry and feathered pets. The centre always has many different nature-themed exhibitions on display, including a permanent exhibition, which looks at different sustainable building options and in the play corner, you can even ride a bike to generate electricity. A beautiful park surrounds the centre, where visitors can familiarise themselves with different educational trails, a beaver dam meant for humans, gardens, a viewing platform and children’s play area. Want to learn more? Why not book an guided tour of the centre. Q Lille 10, tel. +372 736 61 20, www.tartuloodusmaja.ee/en. Open 10:00-18:00; Closed Sat, Sun. Admission €3, reduced €2, family €10. In summer (June - August) with a special exhibitions admission €5, reduced €3, family €13.

Aura Water Centre (see listed on the next page)

V Spa

Where’s the thrill? Feel like you need a challenge? Tartu has several escape rooms to fill the needthe newest one, the Escape Room at National Archives “Noora” seems like something out of a movie. You can choose between the “Archival Riddles” and the “Legends of Tartu”, both suitable for younger folk as well, and they are free of charge, you just need to book in advance. If you want your nerves tickled to the max, check out Gameground featuringtheescaperoom“Legacy of the Madman’” where you find yourselves as prisoners of extra-terrestrial powers. Or head to Escape Room - one of the bigger escape rooms in Estonia. There are five different escape rooms to choose from, which vary in difficulty and type of task.

SPAS AND WATER CENTRES

If you’re looking to relax and unwind, Tartu a few spas to choose from, including the rather impressive V Spa (see listed), featuring a water park with various saunas, jet pools and chillout zones as well as rejuvenating and relaxing treatments such as massages and various exotic therapeutic options.

Located right in the centre of town, the Aura Water Centre (see listed) features several pools with water-slides, Jacuzzis, and a sauna complex, all in the name of wet’n’wild fun. A magnet for both the young and the young at heart, it would not be difficult for a family to spend the whole day here.

AURA WATER CENTRE

Located right in the centre of town, Tartu’s indoor water park features three large tube slides, 5 smaller water-slides, waterfalls, Jacuzzis, fountains and several other pools, including a 25 x 50m competition-sized pool and a 25 x 8m beginners’ pool. The ticket is good all day, so stay as long as you like, or until your fingers get all wrinkly. Visitors can also enjoy different saunas

(Finnish sauna, juniper sauna, rock salt sauna and steam & aroma sauna). There’s also a large outdoor terrace, where you can treat yourself to yet two more saunas, these are unique Estonian ‘Igloo’ saunas, as well as the accompanying jacuzzis, one of which is a hot tub and the other one a very refreshing cold tub.  For those that want to really cool off after, you can take advantage of the icy cold water provided, or spend a few minutes in the refreshing cold room, then wind down in the cosy leisure area with hanging chairs. NB! Aura Water Centre is closed from June 01 - September 30 (2022). Q Turu 10, tel. +372 730 02 80, www. aurakeskus.ee. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri - Sun 10:0022:00. Swimming pool open 06:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.

V SPA

A worthy attraction in the Kvartal shopping centre, V Spa is more than merely a spa. The sprawling complex boasts day spa facilities offering a wide range of rejuvenating and relaxing treatments such as massages and various exotic therapeutic options. Naturally, the water park and all of its various saunas, jet pools and chill-out zones - including a bar area - are a huge draw, as are the speciality salt and sauna worlds. The salt world offers a dreamy floating salt bath, salt stone sauna and a salt scrub sauna. The sauna world offers various options including a Russian Banja and a cold dipping pool. If you’re lucky, the sauna master will be on site to beat you down with branches as well.We enjoyed it so much it was hard to leave when we last visited. Various packages available, including ones combined with hotel stays. See website for a full list. Q Riia 2, tel. +372 740 40 70, www.vspa.ee. Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:0020:00.

Restaurants & Cafés

For a city its size, Tartu has a surprising variety of restaurants. It’s important to note though that the lines between restaurant, café and pub are often blurred here - you can get full meals in most cafés and pubs, and by the same token, you can drink the evening away in a restaurant.

HÕLM

ROMANTIC & FINE DINING

If you’re looking for something extra classy and special, or perhaps a spot that paints a picture of true romance, ie. you have left the kids at home or hotel, there are plenty of great places to let that loving feeling flow while enjoying the company of your significant other, that first date or an intimate gathering of close friends.

For a truly refined dining experience head to Hõlm (see listed) located in the Lydia Hotel. Delicious food, a lovely atmosphere and some excellent wines are to be expected here.

V Spa’s Joyce (see listed) has a more cosy and casual feel while offering a high-scale dining experience. And for something modernly stylish, try Fii. They have a very creative menu, each piece basically a work of art. Focus on freshness, local ingredients and flavour combinations that tickle all the senses.

Each of the above choices also have received special distinctions of merit in that they are all Michelin recommended restaurants.

For more casual romantic dining - Chez André is a lot more than the loungey café that it appears from the outside. Imagine buttering fresh-baked cornbread while Frankie sings longingly about summer winds, then sampling one of the classics or nouvelle cuisine mains crafted by Chef André.

For that high-class, bow tie and linen glove experience, you’re simply not going to do better than Hõlm and in fact, the restaurant belongs to the best restaurantsintheBalticandNordicregionaccording to the gastronomical guide White Guide Baltics and is recommended by Michelin Guide 2022.We found the entire operation to be every bit as crisp and professional as we’d expect from the renowned Lydia Hotel’s restaurant Hõlm and the items we tried from the inventive menu came off flawlessly. The open kitchen is an interesting touch, but diners will probably be drawn more to the picture windows offering alluring views of the adjacent park and - albeit from an oblique angle - Town Hall Square. QÜlikooli 14, tel. +372 730 40 08, www.holmrestoran.ee. Open 18:00-23:00; Sat 17:00-23:00; closed Sun.

JOYCE

Acknowledged with a Michelin Guide recommendation in 2022, Joyce is certainly one of the culinary gems of Tartu. The feel is upmarket, yet somehow casualandinnowaydoesitgiveofftheairofahotel restaurant - naturally, the attached V Spa Hotel is also a gem worth checking into. We truly and thoroughly enjoyed each delicious morsel of the international offerings. If you’re lucky enough to have your kids along with you, they’ll joyfully finish every last bite from the specially created children’s menu. From the enthusiastic and knowledgeable service to the fancy yet cosy interior, the time spent at Joyceis a joy, to say the least.QRiia 2, tel. +372 53 21 75 00, www.vspahotel.ee/en/joyce-restaurant. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00.

The elegant Joyce

Hõlm

Restaurants & Cafés

CASUAL

Dorpat is a good choice, especially if you have a big group of friends or colleagues to join in, as they have a spacious yet stylish atmosphere, great international menu and an excellent drinks list. In the Old Town Kampus is a popular for their reasonable prices and a great selection of entertainment to go along with your meal. Vilde ja Vine has a great atmosphere, as well as Pepe’s Bistro and Social Club

EnjoyalittlebitofParisinTartuat GMPPatisserie - its cosy tables offer the perfect setting for a romantic dinner or casual lunch with friends and taste your way through their French-inspired menu. A must on any culinary tour of Tartu.

Green Room Cafe, located on the banks of the Emajõgi River, offers beautiful views of the city, and a sunny terrace on which to enjoy good food, good wine, and good company.

If you don’t mind a bit of a walk out of the Old Town, then another wonderful venue is Hansa Tall (see listed)- a truly unique establishment featuring traditional Estonian meals in their country style tavern with a lush summer terrace that also features a fountain.

HANSA TALL

As far as super-elaborate decorations go, nothing in Tartu comes close to Hansa Tall. Owners have gone all out to create an old-fashioned, country-style feeling to go with their lengthy offering of hefty and hearty dishes. The antique-packed interior is a must-see, resembling a rural Estonian home of bygone days. When the season turns warm, diners can enjoy their meals in a wide flower-filled courtyard featuring a fountain.Q Turu 27a, tel. (+372) 737 18 02, www.hansatall.ee. Open 08:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-23:00; Sun 08:0021:00.

WITH KIDS

Most restaurants and eateries offer some sort of kids’ menu, or choices for the youngsters, and most are well suited for the whole family, with the exception perhaps of some of the finer dining or romantic establishments.

That being said, a few of the more popular options with a few extra features for the younger generation are Kohvik Newton in the Ahhaa Centre which offers both a play area and a kid’s menu, but perhaps the biggest reason to eat here is the attached science centre. And although you may eat here without a ticket to the science centre, as there is a separate entrance, if you choose to do so with kids, you’ll probably end up buying a ticket - perhaps against your own will. It’s really a great place to spend the day though, so not necessarily a bad choice.

The Parisian-style V Café has a nice play corner for the kids, where the smallest members of the family can learn how to set a table and make coffee or a smoothie. Please check Cafés for a full review.

Kids are also fully catered to with a special menu, chairs and a play corner at restaurant Dorpat, located at the hotel by the same name.

Café Spargel makes its home in a stylish, Art Nouveau building in Karlova area, sharing the space with Tartu Centre for Creative Industries. They offers a menu with the emphasis on local ingredients and they have a cute two-story playroom inside with a slide and swings in the yard. The café also doubles as a commercial art gallery - come in for the paintings and stay for the cakes.

Hansa Tall

ITALIAN & PIZZA

Easily one of the most popular foods in the world, pizza comes in many different shapes, sizes, flavours and styles based on where in the world it’s made. Tartu is no different, however, Italian-style wood oven pizzas have become increasingly available in the country - and this is a good thing to be sure. Find the best pizzas and Italian food at these venues.

La Dolce Vita (see listed) has however operated in the city for years now, it’s owned by Italian friends who were struck by breathtaking Estonian beauty and made a home here. They just so happen to also create beauty of their own in terms of culinary delights - the pizza is quite literally the best in the country and look no further for other authentic Italian dishes also.

In Aparaaditehas, ever so popular Kolm Tilli serves Neapolitan style pizza made on open fire alongside a full food and drinks menu and the great Aparaadi complex vibe. Certainly worth the hike up Riia mnt.

For a more generic pizza experience, although still quite decent, Vapiano does offer up some European chain-variety pizzas and pastas, all made fresh and done the Italian-way.

A more local and Estonian version of the American-style pie can be found at Pappa Pizza, certain to satisfy that melted cheese, crust, tomato sauce and a variety of toppings craving.

LA DOLCE VITA

Everything you could possibly want in a casual, Italian restaurant - checker-print tablecloths, pleasant aromas and authentically thin, crunchy pizza crusts - it’s all here. The owners are actually Italian, so this is the real deal. The menu includes an excellent meat plate, cheese plate, a choice of bruschettas, salads, fresh pastas and over 40 kinds of tasty pizza and calzones, which are cooked to perfection in a wood-burning oven. To top off your meal, there’s a home-made tiramisù for dessert. Voted among the best 50 restaurants in Estonia for the last several years. Bellissimo!QC-2, Kompanii 10 (entrance from Gildi), tel. +372 740 75 45, www.ladolcevita.ee. Open 11:30-23:00; Fri, Sat 11:30-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00.

La Dolce Vita

Restaurants & Cafés

TIPPING TIPS

There is still no rule per se, but the general practice is to leave roughly 10% in any restaurant where you ate a full meal and where the bill was brought to your table (i.e., you didn’t order and pay at the bar). Also, it’s often simpler to tip in cash rather than adding the tip to a credit card payment.

BREAKFAST

They say that breakfast is the most important meal of the day, we personally believe that brunch is even more important - but the lines are sometimes blurred, especially when you’re on holiday and decided to go for a couple of extra ‘nightcaps’ at your new favourite nightspot.

STREET FOOD

Simple grab’n’go food is always quite popular, especially in a student town, and in recent years ‘street food’ has become a go-to when you’re hungry and just want some great grub, without the need for anything fancy.

Already recommended for their pizza - Kolm Tilli is truly the place to head to for the widest variety of street foods, from nachos and fish’n’chips to ramen and Chinese baos. Oh, and the deliciously sweet and crunchy churros. Can you say Yum?

NOKK offers a wide variety of chicken dishes, they even have vegan chicken (if that makes sense to you), and we hear their chicken liver salad is to, die for … yeah, to die for. At any rate, they really do chicken up the right way.

VLND Burger, a Viljandi city transplant and now part of a growing chain, is all about the burgers and keeping things simple. Basically just a few burger choices, with all local ingredients, (a haloumi cheese veggie option as well) and some delicious home cut fries keep the throngs coming back for more. It’s also located in the Aparaaditehas courtyard and a popular choice for patty and bun lovers.

Anna Edasi is a lovely little bohemian café in Karlova that serves up some great food, all made from scratch and usually done as if your grandmother would have prepared it. They open from 11:00, have an excellent choice of omelettes, salads, pancakes (both savoury and sweet) as well as delicious pastries and cakes. Werner is a longtime favourite in Tartu. Their quality is top-notch and they have a very nice breakfast menu alongside their quiches and cakes. This one is for the early birds however, as their breakfast runs from 7:30 - 10:00. Krempel truly serves up a delicious breakfast in a very cute space and the somewhat fancy, yet homestyle dishes, cakes and more. In terms of breakfast, expect the classic eggs & more, omelettes, French toast, waffles, and a variety of pancakes.

For a classic English breakfast, and for a decent price, Gustav Café in the Tartu Kaubamaja certainly fits the bill.

A daily brunch menu that has received a lot of praise can be enjoyed at Kolm Tilli Mon-Fri 09:00 - 11:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00.

Several hotel cafés and restaurants offer up wonderful breakfasts as well like V Café, Dorpat, Antonius and many more.

Intheend,thereareplentyofbreakfastchoices in the city, we’ll let your stomach be the judge as to your favourite choice. Bon appétit!

Hungry for more?

tartu.inyourpocket.com

100+ reviews and all the info you need about Pärnu.

Restaurants & Cafés

CAFÉS

Tartu truly has a fantastic selection of eateries, and that certainly includes cafés and bakeriesthe latter of which often allows eating in as well as takeaway. The lines are often blurry as to what makes a café and what should be designated a restaurant, as many cafés also offer full à la carte menus.

Werner - a true symbol of Tartu’s café scene has been around since 1895, but after its transformation into a lounge café, you’d never guess. Grab your coffee and snacks at the well-stocked pastry counter in front, then head to the back room for cushy chairs and piped-in Jazz. Be sure to check out the long menu, which offers breakfasts and lunch mains at incredibly friendly prices.

Café Truffe on Town Hall Square is definitely a hit, it’s certainly a café but it also has a full menu, if mere pastries and cakes just won’t quite cut it. It’s both stylish and cosy, the dishes are artfully presented and it provides the perfect spot for a chat with a good friend, or a lazy place to sip tea and read a good book.

Another Town Hall Square situated café is Pierre, and as the name suggests it revels in its ode to Frenchness. While it is probably the most French, they do add a few creative touches and incorporate some Estonian cuisine, with a French twist, into the menu as well.The atmosphere does make one feel as if they are sitting in Paris, and the food, pastries, cakes and truffles are quite magnifique.

Crepp is another one that really has an air of Frenchness, and their crêpes - as the name suggests, are really quite tasty. Overall a really nice atmosphere and great spot to linger a while.

Säde Kohviteek is truly all about the coffee, with a truly stylish interior and down to the point

menu (mainly pastries and cakes), it’s a great spot for sitting with your laptop responding to some unwanted work emails or reading a book you started two years ago.

Karlova Kohv, as the name would suggest is located in Karlova and is as bohemian and hipster as the area is known for.They roast their own coffee beans onsite, and serve healthy, organic yet rather tasty food. So dust off your beret, throw on a sweater knitted by your grandmother, or someone else’s grandmother, add some vintage cowboy boots with some Gucci shades and you’ll fit right in.

The delicious pastry smell from Cruffin bakery in Aparaaditehas lure in even those who have sworn off carbs on business days (like the legendary sirens of yore). Pizza-inspired, ovenwarm flatbreads fill hungry bellies, and delicious buttery croissants as well as pastries seal in the deal.

No matter what your café requirements, the student town of Tartu really does have you covered. So grab a friend, a laptop, or a book, delicious coffee or a steaming tea, get settled in and enjoy what this city has to offer.

V CAFÉ

V Café, a cosy and romantic Parisian-style café, has both healthy and decadent options to choose from, coming from comes from the same chef and kitchen as the Michelin recommended Joyce. Starters, mains, drinks, and of course cakes, are affordable and exquisite. The kids play corner just adds to the experience, and the à la carte menu as well as the variety-filled buffet breakfast will keep you full and filled with energy for the entire day.

QC-3, Riia 2, tel. +372 53 21 75 00, www.vcafe.ee. Open 10:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-19:00.

Delicacies and a wonderful atmosphere at V Café

The nightlife inTartu is hopping. No matter what time of year there’s always something going on, and given that it’s a university townweekends tend to start on Wednesday. Whether it be nightclubs, riverside locales (in the warmer months), bars, pubs, lounges or live music venues, we’re sure you’ll find

type of nightlife you might be into and everything in-between.

BARS & PUBS

For a truly classic experience, one that even brings you back in time - both literally and figuratively, Püssirohu Kelder is one of the oldest pubs in Tartu, certainly the largest and even historical. It’s located near the university grounds in a former gunpowder storage building. The structure is impressive, the drinks never stop flowing and you’ll often find live music events here as well.

Walk over to the Emajõgi River and you’ll notice a bunch of smaller locales that fill up rather well in the evenings and night. The atmosphere is superb. Our favourite spot here happens to be Väike Kuuba (Little Cuba). Their claim to fame is the oversized jugs of fresh cocktails, the recipes of which have an island bent - Mojitos in various flavours, Piña Coladas and loads of other tropical cocktails are on offer here, and the prices make chilling around a while quite worth it. The newest riverside venues to join the bunch are Riffen which offers a short grill menu as well as some tasty cocktails, and TOKO - a quite stylish establishment housing a summer restaurant with truly enjoyable, artfully prepared cuisine and naturally a great drinks menu as well.

Further up the river towards Vabadussild, you’ll discover the nice little locale Naiiv. It still gives off that great river vibe, but without such a heavy crowd. Not to say that it isn’t happening, it’s just a little lower-key and chill than the main riverside area, and it gives a different, almost voyeuristic view down the river as well.

For something just a short hop away from the more heavily trodden streets, Ula bar is a really great nightspot and kind of a hidden gem. A great choice for a relaxing drink, live music and quiz nights during the summer, on cooler evenings they have a nice firepit outdoors to cosy up to while you enjoy sipping something a little stronger. Another quite cosy place to while away the evening hours is the Jakobi cocktail bar, it’s got an Italian feel, Italian and international cocktails as well as authentic appetisers from the Southern European country. If you’re feeling lucky, head over to Lucky Loore. This sports lounge is for more active nighlifers and they’ve got billiards, darts, poker tables and more to satisfy folks that like to actually do something while enjoying a beer or cocktail. Perfect place for a night out with a group of your close friends.

whatever

Nightlife

The newly opened Chaplin on Küüni street invites guests with an entitrely film-inspired ambience, just as though you were playing out your existence on the‘Silver Screen’. Although, perhaps unlike the good old Hollywood days, here they serve up hearty meals while vive music fills the stage on many weekend nights, as do regular sports events, and the occasional classic/cult film nights are also shown on the big screens, which dot the interior.

One ofTartu’s longest running bars is Illegard, it’s become a fixture in town for both residents and visitors alike. Located in a cellar, behind Town Hall Square, it’s everything you need in a bar, large screen for the latest sports events, great beer and drinks selection, decent pub-grub, Fußball tables and you’ll often find people playing chess here as well.

Not to be missed, a few other longtime classic bars that have stood the test of time, and proven their nightlife worthiness are Möku, Kivi and Pirogov. They all add a certain something that helps to make theTartu after hours entertainment scene complete.

Thirsty for more?

tartu.inyourpocket.com

100+ reviews and all the info you need about Tartu.

ILLEGAARD

This cellar bar is a favourite local watering hole and eatery serving simple dishes like burgers, wraps, salads, etc, until late. In fact, their vegan burger gets great reviews! While there are a few screens for watching sports, the real sports happen in the bar, as many locals come here to play chess or table soccer. QÜlikooli 5, tel. +372 740 17 14, www.illekas.ee. Open 11:00-01:00; Fri 11:00-03:00; Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 12:00-01:00.

CLUBS

It’s worth noting that Tartu also has its share of nightclubs, and if you want to get shaking on the dancefloor while enjoying some liquid refreshments and checking out all the fine forms in action, you’re in luck. Maasikas (Strawberry) is another institution in the nightlife circuit, it’s stylish, has great DJs and various special events which always keep things hopping. One of the more exclusive clubs in the city is Vabank, expect beautiful people, opulent interior, topnotch DJs, a decent amount of Champagne flowing, strict ‘face control’ and prices to match. It does however make a pretty great night out if your pocketbook can handle it. A rather interesting spot for clubbing in ‘The City of Good Thoughts’, or beats as it were, is Level, and this particular club happens to be at the underground sort of ‘level’. After an extensive security pat down at the door, you’ll enter a space that looks as though you travelled back in time. With all kinds of spinning lights, neon and‘Studio 54’ vibes it’s truly retro - not to mention all the spandex and miniskirts.

We have listed above just a sampling out of all that Tartu has to offer in the way of nightlife, it makes a good starting point, but as to where you’ll end up - we’ll leave that to you. Party hard, party soft, or mix it up a bit, but just make sure to party.

Vabank

Illegaard

Tartu has several large shopping centres located both in and outside of the centre. The most central and convenient is Kaubamaja, right off the Emajõgi river. It houses the local branch of Estonia’s largest department store. It also functions as a full-fledged shopping mall, offering everything from food to flowers to fashion, and a great food store which stocks a decent variety of international and more specialty items as well. Whether or not you’re looking to replace a charging cable, buy an outfit for a night on the town, or a few ingredients to complete that delicious mediterranian dish you want to make back at the Airbnb - you’ll find it here.

Located just across the street, Tasku is a decent sized, trendy shopping, eating and entertainment complex which also houses various boutiques and a reasonably large grocery store called Rimi. Also located in the vicinity, in what has now become the central shopping district, Kvartal offers three floors and a plethora of places to spend your money as well as more than a few dining options. Attached you’ll find the rejuvenating V Spa just in case the shopping therapy didn’t quite do the trick.

Lõunakeskus is the largest shopping and entertainment complex in South-Estonia and accommodates even an indoor ice-skating rink an adventure park, cinema, a golf studio, a sports club as well as a variety of restaurants and cafés. Oh, and stores, plenty of stores. If you can’t find whatever it is your looking for at one of the previously mentioned malls, you’ll find it here.

KAUBAMAJA

This centrally located, retail mecca houses the local branch of Estonia’s largest department store, Kaubamaja. It also functions as a full-fledged shopping mall, offering everything from food to fashion. It’s the best destination for finding upscale and known fashion brands, some of which are exclusively sold here, as well as a good selection of authentic Estonian designs.Q Riia 1, tel. +372 731 48 00, www.tartukaubamaja.ee. Open 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00. Food department open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20.00.

LÕUNAKESKUS

Lõunakeskus is the largest shopping and entertainment complex in South-Estonia, offering the greatest variety of goods and services in the region The centre boasts more than 180 stores, service providers, restaurants and cafés and they are constantly surprising visitors with new attractions. There is truly something for everyone among the variety of entertainment venues: Astri Arena and ice rink are open year-round, while beginners and experienced adventurers alike are welcome to explore the largest indoor adventure park in Estonia.Moreover,withsixscreensthe Apollo Cinema complex is always showing something exciting, while the sports club offers a whole host of activities. Feel like you can’t move an inch after a full day of shopping and activities?The solution is‘next door’- the neighbouring Hotel Sophia provides a convenient base for both holiday-makers and business guests. Its location at the intersection of the Tartu Ring Road and Riga Street makes it easily accessible to shoppers coming from every direction. GettingthereissimpleviatheLõunakeskusexpress bus which operates from in front of the Kaubamaja department store, on the Riia mnt. side.Q Ringtee 75, tel. +372 731 55 00, www.astri.ee/lounakeskus. Open 10:00-21:00.

Lõunakeskus shopping and entertainment complex

Hotels

Due to the city’s increasing popularity, new hotels are springing up everywhere. However, just because there is a lot of choice these days in Tartu, doesn’t mean that you should just show up in town without a reservation, so book as far ahead as you can to guarantee getting a place that suits both your style and your price range.

DORPAT

Modern, stylish, comfortable, friendly staff, lots of amenities and just steps from the bus station and a shopping centre - what more could you ask for? Tartu’s largest hotel is a professionally-run, 205-room affair on the banks of the Emajõgi river. Many rooms enjoy views over the city or the Emajõgi River – scenes of Tartu you’ll never forget! Features include seminar rooms, a Herb spa and a little, red car parked in the lobby. Guests get vouchers for a morning sauna and swim at the nearby Aura Keskus and room keys are good for free entrance at some local nightclubs. We also found the morning breakfast buffet quite excellent, even if you’re not staying in the hotel it’s well worth the low price. QSoola 6, tel. +372 733 71 80, www.dorpat.ee.

HANSA HOTELL

Big, colourful and cosy rooms, some decorated with striped wallpaper, others with brick, set Hansa apart from its rivals. Some suites even have little bar areas. The real difference at Hansa hotel though is the complex’s Hanseatic-style courtyard, a wide, outdoor tavern with wooden wagons, a windmill and other props, offering Estonian food dishes.QTuru 27a, tel. +372 737 18 00/(+372) 569 81 700, www.hansahotell.ee.

LYDIA

If we could afford to, we’d move in here. Permanently. Lydia is the latest offering from the same group that runs the much-respected Dorpat, so in addition to its ideal location just behind Town Hall, it offers a level of swank modernity that’s hard to top. Rooms come in three different classes (Classic, Superior and Executive), all of which come loaded with a long list of goodies like bathrobes, slippers, coffee-making gear, laptop safes, etc. Guests are free to work out in the little gym, chill out in the spa or mix themselves a cocktail in the elegant, self-service lounge, which operates around the clock. Lydia’s restaurant Hõlm on the 2nd floor is recommended by the Michelin Guide 2022, please check the Restaurants section for more info.QÜlikooli 14, tel. +372 733 03 77, www. lydia.ee.

Hansa Hotel

View of hotel Lydia. Photo: Jorma Suumann