Zurich In Your Pocket by In Your Pocket

Maps Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels

Zurich February – March 2020 Winter in Zurich

p. 14

Alpine Adventures p. 52

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Contents

Zurich Arriving & Getting Around

City Basics

History

Zurich’s districts

Sweet Swiss Chocolate

Winter Joys

Where to experience the nation’s claim to fame Fondue trams, ice skating and thermal baths

Culture & Events 15 Concerts, shows and exhibitions

Restaurants

Cafés

Nightlife

Fine dining, cheesy treats and much more Chocolate, coffee and conversation Bars, pubs and clubs

Queer Zurich

Sightseeing

Zurich Nord

Shopping

Churches, murals and museums

It’s possible to go on a day trip to many nearby mountain peaks such as Chäserrugg. Find a handful of suggestions in our Alpine adventures chapter on p. 52. PD

Watches & Jewellery

Restaurants and bars in the north of the city Fancy fashion and Swiss design

Mountains & Ski Resorts

52 Snow-capped mountains, ski slopes and winter hikes

Zurich for kids

Hotels

Major fun for minor citizens

Maps & Index 58-60 61 62

City map Index Public transport map Advertisement

Winter brings some unique opportunities to Zurich, like ice skating high above the city at Dolder. Read all about winter fun in the city on p. 14. Stefan Schmidlin

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Oberdorfstrasse 25 - Zürich

February – March 2020 3

Foreword Although winter isn’t exactly peak tourism season in Zurich, we still think it’s a great time to experience Switzerland’s largest city. All of its best sights can be seen, but without the summer crowds. Its natural beauty is also undeniable at this time of year. Take a ride up to the top of Uetliberg for spectacular scenery and incredible views of distant mountain peaks covered in snow. If you’re lucky, you might just be above the fog line, so you can gaze upon a sea of mist far below. To avoid disappointment, check the visibility at Uetliberg’s webcam before taking the journey (see p. 35). If, however, you’d like to truly experience all of winter’s bounty, then a number of popular Alpine mountains are only a short ride away. It’s possible (even recommended) to take a day trip for a stroll or hike in the snow, but many people, of course, hit the slopes for some skiing, snowboarding or crosscountry skiing. Take a look at our winter sports suggestions on p. 14. Winter is also the time when the city’s cultural life is in full swing. For exhibitions, concerts and the like turn to p. 15. And finally, winter also has some culinary advantages. While we admit that the Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette are on offer year round, winter is actually the season when locals eat these gooey treats. There’s nothing cosier (or more Swiss) than dipping bread in a pot of hot melted fondue (see p. 20) on a dark winter evening! Lukas Füglister has lived in Zurich for 16 years now. As editor and general manager of Zurich In Your Pocket he made sharing his profound knowledge of the city his profession in 2010. He loves dining out, craft beer and tennis and never tires of exploring Zurich. lukas.fueglister@inyourpocket.com

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COVER STORY A light dusting of snow covers Zurich’s rooftops in this photo not to mention the Fraumünster Church, only steps away from the River Limmat. As always, the city’s own mountain, Uetliberg, looms large in the background.

PUBLISHER & STAFF Publisher pocket publishing GmbH, Wuhrstrasse 15, 8003 Zürich tel. (+41) 44 500 29 75, zurich@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.ch Member of Zürich Tourism / Spirit Club Yearly print run: 180 000 (6 x 30 000) ISSN 1663-9944 © pocket publishing GmbH 2020 Editor & General Manager Lukas Füglister, Copy editor Mārtiņš Zaprauskis, Layout & Maps Tomáš Haman Cover ©Zurich Tourism, Christian Beutler Sales manager Susi Haefeli, susi.haefeli@inyourpocket.com, (+41) 44 500 29 76, Photos For photographers see photos, Ad rates at www. inyourpocket.ch, next closing date: March 10, 2020 Editor’s note & Copyright notice The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising (exception: Swiss Chocolate, Mountains). We assume no responsibiltiy for changes and errors. Content copyright pocket publishing GmbH. Photos copyright photographers. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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Arriving & Getting Around ARRIVING BY PLANE Zurich International Airport (ZRH) lies 13 kilometres north of the city centre and handles around 700 flights a day departing to around 200 destinations. You can find ATMs and switzerlandinfo desks just after you pass customs. There you can also find free copies of Zurich In Your Pocket. There’s a big shopping area with most shops open from 08:00 - 21:00 (groceries from 06:00 - 23:00) and free Wi-fi for the first 120 minutes. Connect your device to ’ZurichAirport’.

At the ticket office in the main hall (as well as at many ticket machines) you can buy train tickets, tickets for public transport in Zurich and also change money. For timetables and tickets refer to www.sbb.ch, call tel. (+41) 900 300 300 (1.19Sfr/min) or download the ‘SBB Mobile’ app to your smartphone.

ARRIVING BY BUS International buses as well as sightseeing coaches and bus tours arrive and depart from Zurich Bus Station (Sihlquai, F‑10), a two-minute walk north of the main train station (close to track 18). Currently there are no domestic inter-city buses in Switzerland. The only operator ceased operations in November 2019.

ARRIVING BY CAR

Zurich’s fabulous old town ensconced in a winter coat. Zurich Tourism

Getting to town: The easiest and fastest way to get to and from the airport is by train. Catch a train at the underground train station near terminals 1 and 2 - if the sign on the platform reads Zürich HB (HB = Hauptbahnhof = main station), it’s the right train. Up to 10 trains leave each hour and the journey takes roughly 10 minutes. Tickets can be bought at the counters or at the less busy ticket machines (switch them to English on the first screen) next to the stairs leading down to the platforms. A ticket for an adult is 6.80Sfr and valid for one hour in the whole city (3 zones). If you plan to do more travelling by public transport, make it a 24-hour ticket for just twice the price or consider buying a Zürich Card (see p. 36). A taxi ride to central Zurich costs around 5060Sfr. Official taxi stands are just outside Arrivals 1 and 2. Uber is available, too. Also see the Tax Smarts box below. Tram N°10 takes you from the airport via Oerlikon to Zurich main station as well. The journey takes 37 minutes and the same tickets that are valid for the trains can be used.

ARRIVING BY TRAIN Zurich’s main train station, referred to by locals as HB (short for Hauptbahnhof, say haa-bay), is right in the centre of the city. All international and domestic trains depart and arrive here. From the platforms just follow the herd towards the main hall, where you’ll find the main exit towards the city centre, the ticket offices and Tourist Information (see p. 8). Trams, buses and taxis are just outside the station. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

The Swiss highways A1, A2, A3 and A4 lead from all directions to Zurich. But parking in the city centre is scarce and very expensive. If you’re using the motorways you have to buy a vignette for 40Sfr (valid 1 calendar year). Trams always have the right of way, as well as pedestrians on zebra crossings without traffic lights. Headlights must be turned on at all times. The legal blood alcohol limit for drivers is 0.05%. The speed limit is 50km/h in urban areas, 80km/h outside towns and 120km/h on motorways. In the city of Zurich, especially in residential zones (but not only!), the speed limit is often 30 km/h. We strongly advise you observe the limits carefully as there are dozens of fixed and temporary radar controls in the city. Fines are high, and yes, Switzerland has agreements with many European countries to make sure you pay the fine even if you have a foreign number plate.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT CITY TRANSPORT Zurich’s public transport network includes trams, buses, local trains and even ships. The ticket system is fairly simple: the regional network is divided into zones. You don’t buy tickets for a trip, but rather for a zone. The network of the city of Zurich is zone number 110. Tickets are valid in the chosen zones for all kinds of transportation. A 24-hour pass for the city will cost you 8.80Sfr, a single ticket valid for one hour 4.40Sfr and 6 - 16-year-olds pay 3.10Sfr. Tickets can be bought at the ticket machines at nearly every stop (they take credit cards) or via the ZVV Tickets app. Note that Uetliberg and the airport are not within zone 110. If you get caught without a valid ticket, you’ll be fined 90Sfr. For more advice on public transport go to the VBZ Ticketerias situated at larger tram stops throughout the city. Another option is the Zürich Card (27Sfr/24hrs, 53Sfr/72hrs), which is valid for zone 110 as well as between the airport and the city and includes free admission to many museums. See p. 36. Public transport runs roughly from 05:00 - 00:30. There are night buses and night s-trains on the weekends. They require a 5Sfr supplement to any valid ticket. Send a text message from your mobile with ’NZ’ to 988 to purchase the supplement by phone. February – March 2020 5

Arriving & Getting Around TAXI SMARTS

An unexpected view down Bahnhofstsrasse.

Zurich Tourism

TRAINS Switzerland’s train network is fast, reliable and extensive. For getting around the country, trains are definitely best. The stateowned train company is called SBB. There are regional private networks, but you don’t have to worry about this, as tickets are valid on all trains. For timetables refer to www.sbb.ch. Tickets are sold at vending machines (switch them to English) and at the counters in the main hall at Zurich’s main station. Or buy tickets with your smartphone using the SBB Mobile app, which even indicates which connections have Supersaver Tickets (see box). The app now also has a check-in function called EasyRide. You simply tell the app whenever you board and leave public transportation and it

SUPERSAVER TICKETS If you know when and where you want to go beforehand, you can save up to 70% on your train journey with so-called Supersaver Tickets. The easiest way to get these tickets is to install the ‘SBB Mobile’ app on your smartphone (available in English). Check the connections for your route on your travel day with the timetable function, the ticket prices are indicated for each connection. If Supersaver Tickets are available, a % sign is displayed. Click on the connection, then on the button ‘Tickets from CHF xxx’ at the bottom. Then you’ll see the Supersaver Ticket price for this connection. Select and purchase the Supersaver Ticket. You’ll need to set up an account (credit card required). Supersaver Tickets are only valid on the chosen connection and are not available at ticket counters or ticket machines.

Taxis in Zurich are in general clean, safe, reliable - and expensive. It‘s usually easy to get one, even at rush hour. The city sets the following maximum prices for taxis: initial fee 8Sfr, 5Sfr per kilometre, 80Sfr per hour. The actual fees have to be displayed on a sticker on the door of the car. In reality only two prices exist: the maximum fee and the lower one many companies charge (incl. the two listed below): initial fee (Basis on the sticker) 6Sfr, 3.80Sfr per kilometre (Distanz), 69Sfr per hour (Wartezeit). When taking a taxi from a stand, check the prices on their door. Yes, you are free to take any taxi at a stand. Cheating is rare. You can download the app go! (search for ‘go! taxi’ ) to order a taxi at a fixed rate. The ridesharing service Uber also operates in Zurich. TAXI 444Qtel. (+41) 44 444 44 44, www.taxi444.ch. TAXI 7x7Qtel. (+41) 44 777 77 77, www.7x7.ch. will charge you automatically the best price for your journey at the end of the day. If you plan to travel often, consider buying a Swiss Travel Pass, an all-in-one ticket including extra benefits (such as admission to the Chocolat Frey Visitor Centre, see p. 12) or a Half Fare Card for a month (120Sfr) which gives you up to a 50% discount on public transport in all of Switzerland. For longer distances standard tickets are valid for a trip on any train throughout the day. You can purchase single and return tickets. Children up to 5 travel for free, from 6 - 16 years they pay the so-called half fare.

BICYCLES & E-SCOOTERS Hundreds of stationary rental bikes and free-floating electric scooters are available throughout Zurich. You simply download the respective app, register your credit card and then you’ll be able to see where the closest station or scooter is located. Find and unlock it with your phone and hop on! ZÜRI VELO - PUBLIBIKE, high-quality bikes, pick-up and return only at stations.Qwww.publibike.ch. ELECTRIC SCOOTERS The companies below operate freefloating e-scooters in Zurich. Find its apps in your app store: Lime, Bird, Tier and Circ.

SWISS CHOCOLATE MOMENTS CHOCOLAT FREY VISITOR CENTRE WWW.CHOCOLATFREY.CH

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just 39min from Zurich main Station 6 Zurich In Your Pocket

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City Basics BASIC DATA Area Switzerland: 41285 km² Zurich (Canton): 1729 km² Zurich (City): 92 km²

OFFICIAL INTERNET SHOP WWW.PARTIMEWATCH.COM

Population Switzerland: 8 million Zurich (city): 405,000 Official languages Switzerland: German, French, Italian, Romansh Zurich: German Local time Central European (GMT+1h)

SWISS MADE

CUSTOMS Switzerland is not a member of the European customs union. On the one hand that gives you the opportunity to buy real tax-free goods at airports when you are travelling from and to Switzerland. On the other hand there are tight restrictions on the goods you can take free of customs duty from Switzerland to your country. For EU-countries the following customs and tax allowances apply (for other countries check with the appropriate customs authorities): Tobacco: 200 (50 to some countries) cigarettes or 100 (20) cigarillos or 50 (10) cigars or 250 (50) g of smoking tobacco. Alcohol: 1 litre of spirits over 22% vol or 2 litres of spirits with less than 22% vol, 4 litres of still wine, 16 litres of beer. Other goods: Max value of all goods: 430 euros for air travellers and 300 euros for other travellers. Goods over these limits must be declared when entering an EU-country, additional taxes and VAT may apply.

TO SEE THIS CUP YOU NEED TO MAKE IT TO THE WORLD CUP FINAL – OR TO ZURICH.

In Switzerland there is duty-free shopping for arriving passengers at airports.

LANGUAGE SMARTS

Hello (formal)

Grüezi

(groo-e-tsi)

Goodbye (formal)

Adieu

(as in French)

Thank you

Merci

(mersi)

Sorry!

Entschuldigung!

(ent-shooldi-goong)

Excuse me!

Exgüsi!

(ex-gewsi)

Switzerland

D’Schwyz

(t’shviiits)

Cheers!

Zum Wohl!

(tsoom vol)

Zurich

Züri

(tsoori)

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™

Here are some typical Swiss German words - it will be always appreciated if you use a few Swiss words. The ‘r‘ in Swiss German is rolled, the ‘ch’ is pronounced like in the Scottish loch. Mind your throat.

WWW.FIFAMUSEUM.COM Seestrasse 27, 8002 Zurich February – March 2020 7 ZIYP_60x90_en_Version Q1_2018_v03_hgs.indd 1

08.01.2018 16:08:16

City Basics USEFUL ZURICH APPS Our own app, In Your Pocket City Essentials, features only our favourite places in Zurich (and many other cities). Just as useful is the map with directions, which is also available offline. It’s available for free on both iOS and Android. To download, simply go to iyp.me/app on your smartphone or scan the QR code on the front cover of this guide. The ZVV-Timetable app provides real time door-todoor timetable information for all public transport within the canton of Zurich in English. It also tells you where the nearest stop is. With the free ZVV-Tickets app you can also buy tickets on the fly. It now even offers a check-in function, automatically charging you the best price for your ride when you finish travelling. For national tickets, use the app SBB Mobile.

EMERGENCY UNIT STADTSPITAL TRIEMLI QBirmensdorferstrasse 497, 8Triemli, tel. (+41) 44 466 11 11. Open 24 hrs. EMERGENCY UNIT STADTSPITAL WAID QC‑4, Tièchestrasse 99, 8Bucheggplatz, tel. (+41) 44 366 20 55. Open 24 hrs. Pharmacies To find out where the next pharmacy (Apotheke in German) on duty is, call (+41) 900 55 35 55 (1.50 Sfr/min). The pharmacy at Bellevue is always open 24hrs (G-14, Theaterstrasse 14, (+41) 44 266 62 22).

DRINKING The drinking age in Switzerland is 16 for wine and beer and 18 for spirits and alcopops. The standard sizes for beer are the 0.3 litre Stange (pronounce: shtang-eh) and the 0.5 litre Grosses (gro-sus). Swiss wines are not to be underestimated. While the best come from further south, you’ll find some good Blauburgunders and Riesling Sylvaners from the Zurich region.

ELECTRICITY Electricity in Switzerland is 230 V, 50 Hz AC. Plug sockets can take Europlugs with two pins. If you are coming from the US or the UK (as well as from many other countries) you need an adaptor. Travellers from countries with a a different voltage additionally need a voltage converter.

HEALTH & EMERGENCY Emergency telephone number (operators usually speak basic English): Ambulance: 144 Police: 117 Fire brigade: 118 If you need medical attention, there are several walk-in medical centres, like Permanence at the main train station (facing Bahnhofstrasse), where you just pull a ticket and wait your turn ((+41) 44 215 44 44, Bahnhofplatz 15, open 07:00 - 22:00 or mediX (+41) 44 298 50 50, Badenerstrasse 41, open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 18:00). Zurich also has three public hospitals with walk-in emergency units which are open 24 hours a day for urgent matters. EMERGENCY UNIT UNIVERSITÄTSSPITAL QH‑11, Rämistrasse 100, 8ETH/Universitätsspital, tel. (+41) 44 255 11 11. Open 24 hrs. 8 Zurich In Your Pocket

A view across Zurich to Uetliberg and the Albis mountains.

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MAIL Post: Swiss post is generally reliable and also can take care of all your financial transactions. The Sihlpost is the post office with the longest opening hours (see below). SIHLPOST Zurich‘s central post office, open until late. Take a ticket and wait your turn. QE‑11, Kasernenstrasse 97, 8Sihlpost/HB, tel. (+41) 848 888 888. Open 06:30 -22:30, Sat 06:30 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:30.

TOURIST INFORMATION The Tourist Information run by Zurich Tourism is located in the main hall of the main train station. This is a one-stop solution for all the information you might be missing. For personal advice at the counter, take a ticket and wait your turn. They also offer the following services. They... • will book city tours and excursions • sell tickets for public transport, incl. the Swiss Travel Pass • sell the Zürich Card (see p. 36 for more infos) • can make hotel reservations • sell tickets for events and museums and souvenirs Last but not least you can always pick up the latest copy of Zurich In Your Pocket here - for free, of course. QG-11, Main hall of the main train station. Open 08:30 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. zurich.inyourpocket.com

City Basics NATIONAL HOLIDAYS January 1 January 2 April 10, 2020 April 13, 2020 April 20, 2020 May 1 May 21, 2020 June 1, 2020 August 1 September 14, 2020 December 25

New Year Berchtold Day (local) Good Friday Easter Monday Sechseläuten (Zurich only) Labour Day (Zurich only) Ascension Whit Monday National Holiday Knabenschiessen (Zurich only) Christmas

The best Zurich has to offer in one great app

LANGUAGE Switzerland has four official languages: German (spoken by 64%), French (20%), Italian (6.5%) and Romansh (0.5%). Zurich lies in the German speaking part of the country, where people speak a German dialect, so-called Swiss German or Schwyzerdütsch. Be it among friends or at work, people speak dialect. However, they use standard German, so-called Hochdeutsch, when writing and speaking at school.

MONEY & TIPPING The currency of Switzerland is the Swiss franc (Sfr or Chf ), which is divided in 100 rappen. There are banknotes of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 1000 francs. The coins in use are 1, 2 and 5 francs as well as 5, 10, 20 and 50 rappen. Credit cards are widely accepted. Service is always included. At a restaurant however, if you were happy with the service, round it up or leave 5-10% of the bill as a tip.

POLITICS Switzerland is not a member oft the European Union. The Swiss like to consider their country the home of direct democracy and citizens here are regularly asked to take a stand on national issues. The two chambers of parliament are (mainly) elected in a proportional voting system and the seven-member government appointed by parliament always includes representatives of all of the four or five major parties. Switzerland is a federal republic consisting of 26 cantons, once sovereign states which retain some independence and have their own constitutions, parliaments and governments. Bern is the capital.

SAFETY Zurich is a safe city and there is no no-go area, even for single travellers. As always, beware of pickpockets.

City Essentials Only our favourite places Works ofﬂine, incl. maps Free download Incl. dozens of other cities www.iyp.me/app

SMOKING The legal age of smoking is 16. Smoking in public buildings is illegal. However, restaurants and bars are allowed to have a separate smoking room (fumoir). facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

February – March 2020 9

History XVI Century Huldrych Zwingli, priest at the Grossmünster, was a major critic of mercenary service. But he had a lot more to say and became the initiator of the Reformation in Zurich from 1520 on. The Reformation meant an end to all frivolous behaviour - drinking, prostitution and actually most fun was forbidden or strictly regulated.

NAPOLEON CAUSES A BOTHER XVI - XVIII Century During the 16th and 17th Centuries Zurich’s wealth and influence increased. Among the intellectuals of the time were the educational reformer Heinrich Pestalozzi or the painter Johann Heinrich Füssli, whose work you’ll find today in the Kunsthaus. In 1798 Zurich lost its independence as Napoleon took over, transforming the Swiss Confederacy into the Helvetic Republic for a brief five years. Zurich’s somewhat grim reformator Huldrych Zwingli.

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ROMANS AND SCHWYZERDÜÜTSCH

RAILWAYS AND A STRIKE

100BC - X Century Around 15 BC the Romans established a military base at the site of today’s Lindenhof where you can find a copy of the Roman tomb stone mentioning Turicum, the word from which Zurich derives. Roman rule ended around 400 AD and nobody really has any idea what went on in Zurich for the next few centuries. One change was the arrival of the Germanic tribe of the Allemanni, who brought with them the language that was to become today’s Swiss German (Schwyzerdüütsch).

XIX - XX Century Modern-day Switzerland was founded in 1848 as a federation. The year before, the first railway line in Switzerland was opened. Railways were the business Alfred Escher was in. He dominated Zurich and Swiss politics for the next few decades. His statue can be found just in front of the main train station. Switzerland remained neutral during the First World War and was refuge to the artists who started the Dada movement in Zurich. The war exacerbated the poverty of the working classes and in 1918 a socialist committee called a general strike. Many of the committee’s demands were later fulfilled, though not the demand for the right of women to vote, which was not introduced until 1971!

ZURICH IN WOMEN’S HANDS

THE RÉDUIT AND THE WAR

XII - XIV Century In the 13th Century Zurich became an imperial city, answering only to the emperor of the Holy Roman Empire. Zurich was now headed by a woman the abbess of the Fraumünster abbey. In 1336 an uprising of Zurich’s craftsmen made the newly founded guilds the foundation of Zurich’s political structure. Many of the guild houses, still in use today, are now also restaurants like the Zunfthaus Zur Schmiden or the Zunfthaus am Neumarkt (emblem of the guild of the shoemakers on the left).

XX Century During most of the Second World War Switzerland, formally neutral, was totally surrounded by the Axis powers, making it difficult to import food and other goods. General Guisan prepared for a military attack by literally hollowing out the Alps, envisaging a guerrilla war from the mountains, the socalled réduit strategy.

ZURICH GOES SWISS… AND PROTESTANT XIV - XVI Century In 1351 Zurich joined ’Switzerland’, which had existed as a treaty since 1291. This however didn’t stop the city waging war against fellow cantons, such as against Schwyz. Soon the city ruled over lands around Lake Zurich and north all the way to the river Rhine. 10 Zurich In Your Pocket

ZURICH TODAY XX - XXI Century After the war Switzerland’s economy boomed and mass immigration from Southern Europe set in, while culturally and politically Switzerland remained very conservative. In 1968 and 1980 youth movements clashed with police, but also brought new cultural life to Zurich. Today Zurich is still a major financial centre and has lost the conservative reputation. It has become popular as a place to live for highlyskilled workers from across Europe. This has made the lack of affordable apartments one of the major topics in Zurich today. zurich.inyourpocket.com

Zurich’s districts ZURICH NORD

Rive

r Lim

mat

ZURICH WEST

CITY NIEDERDORF

LANGSTRASSE ENGE

SEEFELD Lake Zurich

WOLLISHOFEN

The City of Zurich officially has 12 urban districts, called Stadtkreise. They are simply numbered from 1 to 12. However, these urban districts are mostly for administrative purposes, so we introduce the most important districts for the city’s visitors by the names they’re usually known by. The numbers in parentheses show roughly which official districts they include.

NIEDERDORF (1) Niederdorf (the Lower Village) is the part of the old town on the eastern bank of the River Limmat between the Central and Bellevue squares. It’s teeming with restaurants, bars and, spiteful tongues say, undiscerning visitors from the neighbouring canton of Argovia (Argovians take a bit of flak in Zurich). There is also a sprinkling of adult entertainment, especially in and around Härringstrasse where sex workers of both sexes look for suitors. Most of Niederdorf is a pedestrian area. It’s criss-crossed with medieval alleys, so a walk through Niederdorf should be a mandatory part of every visit to Zurich. If, however, you leave very busy Niederdorfstrasse and head uphill towards Oberdorf you’ll discover some lovely spots you might not have expected. Along the river on the Limmatquai you’ll find lovely cafés with outdoor seating.

CITY/LINDENHOF (1) On the western bank of the River Limmat lies the Lindenhof quarter, the other part of the old town. Right in its centre, on a small hill, Lindenhof affords excellent views of Niederdorf. Zurich’s citizens held their meetings here in medieval times. The alleys and streets near here abound with shops of all kinds, not to mention some restaurants and bars. Towards the west, Bahnhofstrasse - one of the world’s most famous shopping streets - marks the border of the Lindenhof district, and on the other side, the so-called City includes Paradeplatz and the financial and business district, which spreads out toward the lake. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

SEEFELD (8) Seefeld is the name of the district on the eastern shore of the lake. Over the past 15 years or so it has become an incredibly popular area to live in, which has resulted in very high rents. This has been driving away the area’s original inhabitants and there are worries it’s spoiling its charm. With all the new residents, scores of trendy bars and restaurants have opened in Seefeld, but the major attraction here is the lake. On the lakeside there is a promenade with boat rentals, two swimming spots and the ever-crowded Blatterwiese.

ENGE & WOLLISHOFEN (2) The western shore of Lake Zurich is a bit less popular, but that’s exactly why it’s worth a visit. When the Seefeld side is overcrowded on a sunny summer weekend, you might find it more relaxing on this side. Try swimming at Mythenquai, or on Landiwiese, right on the shore.

LANGSTRASSE (4 & 5) Langstrasse (Long Street) connects districts 4 and 5 via a tunnel underneath the ocean of railway tracks which divide the western part of the city. It was once the best-known red light district in Switzerland, but over the past 15 years much has changed. More and more striptease clubs have morphed into urban bars and clubs popular with Zurich’s young crowd. You’ll still find some strip clubs, drugs and a few alcoholics, but also some of the most interesting bars, restaurants and clubs in the city. As a result it’s Zurich’s most cosmopolitan and multicultural district, perfect for barhopping almost around the clock. This also has its downside, namely lots of litter and noise. Langstrasse at 02:00 on a Saturday night can look as busy as shopping mecca Bahnhofstrasse a few hours earlier. It’s not a dangerous area, but probably not for the faint-hearted.

ZÜRICH WEST (5) Probably Zurich’s fastest developing district, this formerly industrial part of the city is rapidly changing into a new business and residential area. Office space and residential developments have sprouted everywhere, making construction sites a long-term feature. The area around Escher-Wyss-Platz has also become one of the city’s entertainment districts with bars, restaurants and clubs popping up like mushrooms over the last 20 years. The first clubs occupied abandoned industrial buildings, but now many have moved into newly built or renovated locations.

ZÜRICH NORD - OERLIKON (11) Urban district 11 in the north of Zurich, behind the Käferberg and Zürichberg hills, is often referred to as Zurich Nord. Close to the airport, Oerlikon is home to numerous companies and the trade fair grounds. Lots of housing, offices, parks and hotels have been built here in the past 10 years and Oerlikon train station just got a major facelift. February – March 2020 11

Sweet Swiss chocolate Yes, you should definitely take advantage of Zurich’s claim to fame and try some sinful Swiss sweets. The city has many local confectioners and chocolatiers, and there are some nearby producers with visitor centres offering great insights.

BACHMANN - CHOCOLATE WORLD Bachmann is a temple to chocolate on Bahnhofstrasse and includes a café. On the ground floor you’ll find bread and pastries, but on the second Chocolate World features a flowing wall of chocolate as well as Bachmann chocolate bars, truffles and a whole assortment of Lindt chocolates.QF‑11, Bahnhofstrasse 89, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 221 97 80, www.confiserie.ch. Open 06:45-20:00; Sat 07:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-18:00. CHOCOLAT FREY VISITOR CENTRE You and your kids can get to know how chocolate is made at Chocolat Frey, Switzerland’s biggest chocolate producer. On the so-called ‘expert trail’ chocolate makers will demonstrate the production of those sweet delicacies. And yes, you and your kids will be able to taste some too (also see p. 54). QBresteneggstrasse 4, Buchs, tel. (+41) 62 836 24 25, www.chocolatfrey.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00; closed Mon. Free admission with the Swiss Travel Pass.

SWEET CHOCOLATE MOMENTS CHOCOLAT FREY VISITOR CENTRE

The Chocolat Frey visitor centre just 39 minutes from Zurich central station by public transport

FREE ENTR Y WITH SW ISS TRAVEL PA SS

Free entry to the Café Frey with its chocolate factory playground and to the Boutique Frey Chocolat Frey Visitor Centre Bresteneggstrasse 4 | CH-5033 Buchs bei Aarau Tel. 0041 (0) 62 836 24 25, besucherzentrum@chocolatfrey.ch www.chocolatfrey.ch

12 Zurich In Your Pocket

zurich.inyourpocket.com

Swiss Chocolate SAY CHOCOLATE

Here you can say it with chocolate - literally. With the chocolate letters sold in this shop, you can write messages to your loved ones. You can choose between three different sizes of boxes, depending on your message. They fit 9, 16 or 25 letters, and there are chocolates with symbols to fill the box too. They also have macarons in a variety of flavours like gin, passion fruit and vanilla. Perfect as a gift or to enjoy with a coffee on the spot. QE‑11, Lagerstrasse 28, 8Sihlpost/HB, tel. (+41) 44 211 66 11, www.saychocolate.ch. Open 10:00-19:00; Mon 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; closed Sun.

Bahnhofstrasse 89 Zürich

VOLLENWEIDER CHOCOLATIER Vollenweider is a traditional family-owned Swiss chocolatier. In its Zurich shop you’ll find all of the sweet Vollenweider specialities such as Champagne truffles, filled chocolates in boxes of all different sizes, chocolate bars and chocolate panels as well as other treats like macarons, ice cream and pastries. All are handcrafted with dedication at its own workshop in Winterthur. QH‑14, Theater‑ strasse 1, 8Opernhaus, tel. (+41) 43 288 04 04, www.vollenweiderchocolatier.ch. Open 08:0019:00; Sat 09:00-18:00; Sun 10:00-17:00. MAESTRANI’S CHOCOLARIUM You can watch the entire chocolate-making process from start to finish at the chocolate producer Maestrani. A one-hour chocolate experience tour is available in English and German. Learn all you need to know about cacao seeds, cocoa and everyone’s favourite sweet, chocolate. Create a personalised chocolate bar or head over to the café where you can taste and buy all of the delicacies that Maestrani has to offer. QToggenburgerstrasse 41, Flawil, tel. (+41) 71 228 38 88, www.chocolarium.ch. Open 10:0018:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-17:00. 14/8Sfr, families 34Sfr. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

Get 4 Lindor truffles

FOR FREE

by showing this voucher in our shop Valid until 1.1.2021

February – March 2020 13

Winter joys In winter, Zurich is often covered by a thick layer of highaltitude fog. That doesn’t sound very pleasant, but in fact, fog is way better than clouds in Switzerland as all you have to do to get some sunshine is to climb a nearby mountain. Or even better: ski it. In fact, there are many resorts so close to Zurich that it’s worth going to one just for the day. These resorts open as soon as there’s enough snow, usually by the end of November or mid-December. Check out our suggestions on p. 52. But of course the city offers some winter fun such as ice skating and thermal baths too, all of which you’ll find below.

THERMAL BATHS & SAUNAS

FONDUE CRUISE Every Tuesday and Thursday evening at 19:15 the Fondue Ship sets off for a 2.5 hour cruise on Lake Zurich. On Tuesday the Swiss national dish cheese fondue is served, on Thursday fondue chinoise (meat) is on the menu, starting January there is a hot stone grill instead. Dinner while cruising the lake with a view of Zurich by night - not bad at all.QF‑14, Bürkliplatz, 8Bürkliplatz, tel. (+41) 44 487 13 33, www.zsg.ch. Starts Tue and Thu 19:15 at Bürkliplatz, book in advance by phone. Runs until March 31, 2020. Tickets 55/27.50 (cheese), 80/40Sfr (meat). Fondue included, drinks and side dishes are extra. SAUNA SEEBAD ENGE This is no ordinary city sauna - at Seebad Enge the sauna is located on a platform floating on Lake Zurich. So when it’s time to cool off, you can step out onto the pier and jump into the lake. There are three saunas, one only for women. Remember: Nude areas for both sexes are common in Europe, and you usually enter saunas sans clothing, with the exception of a towel. Massages and other treatments are available. A very pleasant option for spending a cold winter evening.QF‑16, Mythenquai 9, 8Rentenanstalt, tel. (+41) 44 201 38 89, www.tonttu.ch. Open 10:0023:00. Mon women only (all three saunas), Sun only mixed, otherwise mixed/women. Admission 29Sfr.

Aja City Resort

AJA CITY RESORT WELLNESS AREA The aja resort in the Altstetten district includes a wellness area that is open to the public. It’s spread out over 600m2 and features different saunas such as a bio sauna and a steam bath, but the definitive showpiece is the Finnish panorama sauna which affords incredible views while you relax and sweat away your everyday stress. A relaxation room, ice fountains, special showers as well as a state-of-the-art gym with all of the latest equipment are also at your disposal after a busy day. QVulkanstrasse 108b, 8Bahnhof Altsetten, tel. (+41) 43 523 12 00, www.ajahotel.ch. Open 15:0023:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-23:00. Admission sauna or gym 25Sfr, sauna & gym 29Sfr. THERMALBAD & SPA ZÜRICH Zurich’s only thermal bath is located in the buildings that once were home to the brewery Hürlimann in Zurich Enge using the spring water that was once sold for drinking as Aqui. There are different pools, some of them in the old stone cellars as well as an outdoor area on the rooftop open all year, with a view over the city and towards the Alps. Besides whirlpools, massage jets and resting zones there is an Irish-Roman Spa area with ten different stations like a peeling niche (extra fee applies).QC‑15, Brandschenkestrasse 150, 8Waffenplatzstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 205 96 50, www.thermalbad-zuerich.ch. Open 09:00-22:00. Admission 36/18/10Sfr, children up to 3 years free. 14 Zurich In Your Pocket

Ice skating at Dolder is synonymous with winter fun. Stefan Schmidlin

SKATING RINK DOLDER (KUNSTEISBAHN) Surrounded by woods up above Zurich the Dolder outdoor skating rink is a great little getaway. Getting there is a little adventure too. Take tram N°3, 8 or 15 to Römerhof and then get the little red Dolderbahn, a cogwheel railway, up to the last station (6 min). Self-service restaurant on site. QAdlisbergstrasse 36, 8Römerhof, tel. (+41) 44 267 70 80, www.doldereisbahn.ch. Open until Martch 11, 2020, 09:00 - 22:30, Sun 09:00 - 17:45. The rink is closed on Wed from 17:30 to 19:15. Admission: children 4-16 years: 4Sfr, 17-20 years: 6Sfr, adults: 8Sfr. If you just want to watch you‘ll have to pay 2Sfr. Renting a pair of ice skates: 8Sfr. Family ticket including skates rental: 40Sfr. zurich.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events Zurich offers a rich bouquet of culture, with its opera and ballet of (at least) European renown and a packed programme of excellent concerts. Pop and rock stars almost always stop in Zurich when touring the continent and Zurich also has a vibrant theatre scene, but unfortunately very few productions in English.

Ottorino Respighi, Piotr I. Tchaikovsky and Giuseppe Verdi. Conductor: Willi Zimmermann.QB‑8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, www.zko.ch.

Events are listed in the following categories: classical concerts, exhibitions, musicals and rock and pop concerts. Of course, there are many more events than we can list, so please check www.iyp.me/zurich/events or the websites of the venues we list for full programmes.

CLASSICAL CONCERTS 05.02 19:30, 06.02 12:15, 06.02 19:30 » TONHALLE ORCHESTRA & VILDE FRANG

Zurich’s Tonhalle Orchestra will perform works by Béla Bartók, Dmitri Shostakovitch and Antonín Dvořák. Conductor: Rafael Payare; violin: Vilde Frang.QB‑8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch.

25.02 19:30 » ZURICH CHAMBER ORCHESTRA & MARC LACHAT

The Zurich Chamber Orchestra and its music director Daniel Hope perform works by Johann Sebastian Bach and Edvard Grieg. Oboe: Marc Lachat.QB‑8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, www.zko.ch.

26.02, 27.02 19:30 » TONHALLE ORCHESTRA & SOL GABETTA

Tonhalle Orchestra Zurich performs works by Carl Philipp Emanuel Bach, Robert Schumann and Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. Conductor: Giovanni Antonini; cello: Sol Gabetta. QB‑8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34.

11.03 19:30, 12.03 18:30, 13.03 19:30 » TONHALLE ORCHESTRA & PAAVO JÄRVI

Zurich’s Tonhalle Orchestra performs works by Piotr I. Tchaikovsky. Chief conductor: Paavo Järvi; accordion: Ksenija Sidorova.QB‑8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch.

19.03 12:15 & 19:30, 20.03 19:30 » TONHALLE ORCHESTRA ZURICH

Zurich’s Tonhalle Orchestra performs works by Piotr I. Tchaikovsky and Karol Szymanowski. Chief conductor: Paavo Järvi; violin: Lisa Batiashvili.QB‑8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch.

24.03 19:30 » ZURICH CHAMBER ORCHESTRA & AVI AVITAL

The Zurich Chamber Orchestra and Avi Avital (mandolin) perform works by Antonio Vivaldi , Johann Sebastian Bach, facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

The music director of the Zurich Chamber Orchestra, Daniel Hope.

Nicolas Zonvi

26.03 19:30 » CONDUCTOR’S ACADEMY FINAL CONCERT

The Tonhalle Orchestra Zurich and its chief conductor Paavo Järvi organise a Conductor’s Academy that lasts three days, where seven to eight young international conductors are coached in the demanding task of conducting an orchestra. It concludes with a final concert like this one. The orchestra will perfrm works by Béla Bartók, Camille Saint-Saëns, Antonín Dvořák et al.QB‑8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch.

EXHIBITIONS 17.01 - 13.04 » GAMES

Around the globe, 2.5 billion people play video games. This exhibition takes visitors on a journey through the 50-year history of electronic games. Initially a fringe phenomenon, games have evolved into complex entertainment media and have become an important part of our culture. The exhibition traces the historical and technical development of video games from amusement arcades to virtual reality, and also explores the aspects that are perceived as a concern. Gaming stations invite visitors to immerse themselves in virtual worlds and to try out the games for themselves. QF‑10, National Museum (Landesmuseum), Museumstrasse 2, 8Hauptbahnhof, www.landesmuseum.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.

20.02 - 07.06 » LIFE AS A PRINCE

Until the 20th century, painting in India was restricted almost entirely to royal palaces and princely courts. The elite audiences took delight in the noble miniatures and in turn inspired artists. The exhibition of Indian miniatures shows and deciphers portraits and self-representations of Indian rulers, and provides glimpses of the luxurious and vibrant life behind palace walls.QD‑16, Museum Rietberg, Gablerstrasse 15, 8Museum Rietberg, www.rietberg.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. February – March 2020 15

Culture & Events 01.01 - 08.03 » KNOWLEDGE IN IMAGES – INFORMATION DESIGN TODAY

Never in our history has so much information been exchanged as it is today. Whether for visualising big data, publishing journalistic findings, spatial orientation, or as material promoting effective learning and teaching— information design explains the most diverse contents within the shortest time by combining large amounts of visual material with few words. Images have the power to simplify and illustrate complex facts. But because information design must lend itself to intuition, its objective form may also contain manipulated content. This exhibition presents this topical area of visual culture in printed and moving images and makes immaterial knowledge playfully experienceable through interactive installations including one covering the threatened heritage of Asian martial arts.QA‑7, Museum für Gestaltung Toni-Areal, Pfingstweidstrasse 96, 8Toni-Areal, www.museum-gestaltung.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 06.09 » DESIGN LABORATORY: MATERIALS AND TECHNOLOGY

Ceramics dripping from a 3D printer? Clothing that helps one get up? Bacteria instead of leather for a shoe? What sounds like science fiction is already within reach. Not only in the laboratory, but also in design, material issues are more relevant today than ever due to digitization and the quest for greater sustainability. To this end, designers are increasingly working with scientists from the fields of biotechnology and materials technology. Together they are exploring the future with unprecedented ideas and solutions. The exhibition presents promising projects in the field of sustainable materials, robotics and 3D printing. It’s also open to the public as a discussion forum: the design laboratory enables visitors to observe, touch, discuss, try out and experiment!QA‑7, Museum für Gestaltung - Toni-Areal, Pfingstweidstrasse 96, 8Toni-Areal, www.museum-gestaltung.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon

Knowledge in Images - The Digital Heritage of Hakka Kung Fu.

Kenderdine, Shaw

17.01 - 22.03 » OLAFUR ELIASSON - SYMBIOTIC SEEING

Danish-Icelandic artist Olafur Eliasson has created a large scale installation exclusively for this Zurich solo exhibition. It addresses a key issue of our age: the relationship and interplay between human and non-human actors on Earth. In ‘Symbiotic Seeing’, Eliasson tackles themes such as coexistence and symbiosis and aims to bring about a fundamental shift of perspective. The exhibition invites us not only to reflect on climate change – as a consequence of human action – but also to comprehend the human being as part of a larger system. The socially and environmentally committed artist, who was appointed Goodwill Ambassador for Climate Action and the Sustainable Development Goals by the UN in September 2019, proposes an idea of the world based on coexistence and collaboration, rather than competition. Eliasson’s art translates complex theoretical deliberations into spatial works that not only appeal to people rationally, but also touch them emotionally and move them physically.QH‑13, Kunsthaus, Heimplatz 1, 8Kunsthaus, tel. (+41) 44 253 84 84, www.kunsthaus.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

MUSICALS 21.01 - 23.02 » LES MISÉRABLES

Olafur Eliasson puts the ceiling in motion. Quite literally.

16 Zurich In Your Pocket

Cameron Mackintosh’s acclaimed production of Boublil and Schönberg’s musical Les Misérables will be performed for the first time in Switzerland in its original English version. Set against the backdrop of 19th-century France, Les Misérables tells an enthralling story of the ex-convict Jean Valjean, who agrees to take care of dying factory worker Fantine’s daughter, Cosette. Jean Valjean is hunted for decades by the ruthless policeman Javert, so he escapes together with Cosette to Paris, where they join the street revolution fighting for life, hope, love and freedom. QH‑1, Theater 11, Thurgauerstrasse 7, 8Messe/ Hallenstadion, www.musical.ch. zurich.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events ROCK & POP CONCERTS

CINEMAS

17.02 20:00 » JESSE COOK

The Canadian guitarist Jesse Cook has set out to succeed guitar grandmasters like Paco De Lucia, John McLaughlin and Al Di Meola. With his fast-paced mix of Nuevo Flamenco, rumba, jazz and different forms of world music, Jesse Cook has long been a star in the USA, and especially in his Canadian homeland. The man who has sold over 1.5 million albums will perform in Switzerland for the first time!QF‑13, Kaufleuten, Pelikanstrasse 18, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 225 33 22, www.allblues.ch.

20.02 19:00 » FIVE FINGER DEATH PUNCH, MEGADETH & BAD WOLVES

The metal giants Five Finger Death Punch, Megadeth and Bad Wolves have joined forces in 2020! On February 17, this unique spectacle will arrive at Hallenstadion Zurich. Get ready, if you dare!QI‑1, Hallenstadion, Wallisellenstrasse 45, 8Messe/Hallenstadion, www.hallenstadion.ch.

28.02 20:00 » ANNENMAYKANTEREIT

AnnenMayKantereit is one of the best selling German rock/pop bands in recent years. They’re now touring through Germany, Switzerland and Austria with their latest record.QI‑1, Hallenstadion, Wallisellenstrasse 45, 8Messe/Hallenstadion, www.wwwhallenstadion.ch.

06.03 20:00 » MACEO PARKER

Funk and soul master Maceo Parker is back in town and he’s not alone. This living legend and his band will perform a concert that will be a must for anyone who’s into funk music.QF‑13, Kaufleuten, Pelikanstrasse 18, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 225 33 22, www.allblues.ch.

13.03 20:00 » KELIS

The soul diva is back! On the occasion of the 20th anniversary of her debut hit album Kaleidoscope she returns to the club stages for a short European tour and celebrates her modern interpretation of classic soul between funk and RnB. Welcome back!QF‑13, Kaufleuten, Pelikanstrasse 18, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 225 33 22, www.allblues.ch.

Zurich has more than a dozen cinemas, many of them with more than one screen and the large ones with up to 12 screens. Traditionally films in Switzerland are shown in their original language with German and French subtitles. But the big multiplex cinemas that have displaced some of the smaller ones in the last two decades have started to show more and more movies dubbed in German. In smaller cinemas you can still watch all movies in the original language – lots of them in English of course. They are marked with the letters Edf in the programmes (English with German (Deutsch) and French subtitles) - a D (capital) indicates the movie is screened in German. KOSMOS The films shown here (six screens) are so-called arthouse movies, so you can expect mostly international independent films. That said, Kosmos is much more than a cinema, as it’s also a bistro, a bar, a bookshop, a café and a club lounge spread out over three floors – a real cosmos of culture, indeed.QD‑10, Lagerstrasse 102, 8Sihlpost/HB, tel. (+41) 44 299 30 30, www.kosmos.ch. Open 08:00-24:00; Sun 10:0023:00; Sat 10:00-24:00. bookshop 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00, bar/club Fri & Sat until 02:00. RIFFRAFF RiffRaff is a lovely arthouse cinema with four screens just off Langstrasse.QD‑9, Neugasse 57, 8Limmatplatz, tel. (+41) 44 444 22 00, www.riffraff.ch.

13.03 20:00 » TORRES

Mackenzie Scott aka Torres is on tour with her latest album Silver Tongue. The artist has built on her previous works, with finely polished arrangements that offer plenty of scope for creativity when performed live. Support: Katie Harkin.QRote Fabrik, Seestrasse 395, 8Post Wollishofen, www.rotefabrik.ch.

23.03 20:30 » MOON HOOCH

From the first beat of their concert you’ll realise that this dubstep-jazz-punk band is going to blow you away. These three musicians began their careers in different New York City subway stations and weren’t even stopped by the police.QB-7, Moods, Schiffbauplatz, 8Schiffbau, www.moods.club.

28.03 21:00 » 2RAUMWOHNUNG

Maceo Parker will be bringing some coolness to the stage.

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

For many years, the 2raumwohnung duo have been two of the most important protagonists of German-speaking electropop, if not the leader of the genre. They’re back on tour again for their 20th anniversary, so don’t miss your chance to see them on stage.QE‑9, X-TRA, Limmatstrasse 118, 8Limmatplatz, www.x-tra.ch. February – March 2020 17

Restaurants

Simple, yet trendy interior design at Japanese restaurant Ooki (see p. 24). | PD

Zurich has around 2,000 restaurants, bars and takeaways. No wonder you can find almost any kind of food imaginable: from down-to-earth Swiss to traditional Vietnamese, from Lebanese to Japanese and back again. But today many restaurants also cook in a mélange, international style and are not easily categorized. Nevertheless we have tried. We list the places we recommend within any particular category. For lunch, lots of restaurants offer special deals, usually considerably cheaper. Note that many restaurants close their kitchens between roughly 14:00 and 17:30 and in the evening at 22:00 or 23:00. For the evening we recommend you book a table. For more suggestions see www.iyp.me/zurich/restaurants

SYMBOL & PRICE KEY A Credit cards accepted

X Smoker lounge

J City centre location

N No credit cards

8 Nearest tram station

C‑1 Map coordinates

€ €€ €€€ €€€€

most mains under 25Sfr most mains 25-40Sfr most mains 40-55Sfr most mains over 55Sfr

18 Zurich In Your Pocket

BURGERS HELVTI DINER BELLEVUE Helvti Diner’s burger concept is simple, and that’s probably one of the reasons why it’s so successful (this is its second location in town). You can customise your burger in three steps: first you choose the meat (Swiss premium, Angus, chicken or veggie), then your add-ons like bacon, cheese or fried eggs and then you decide on a sauce. Our burger was grilled medium and the meat was perfectly pink inside, just as we ordered it, but next time (and there will be a next time) we might order some guacamole for a little extra flavour. The service was quick and friendly.QH‑14, St. Urbangasse 4, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 43 500 05 35, www.helvti-diner.ch. Open 11:30-23:30; Mon 11:3022:30; Fri 11:30-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:30. kitchen open continuously until 23:00, Mon & Sun 22:00. €€. AJ THE BITE Burgers seem to be back on the locals’ hitlist. The Bite convinced us with their Classic burger - it was one of the best we have had in a long time. The beef was fried to perfection, the blend delicious and the cheddar cheese, the shallots and the sauces a great match. The home-made ketchup and cocktail sauces which came with the fries went down well too. We could do without some of the arty chichi - the drinks are served in jars and the burgers come on wooden chopping boards - but we would always come back for zurich.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants these burgers.QD‑11, Brauerstrasse 15, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 44 242 30 00, www.thebite.ch. Open 11:3013:30, 18:00-22:00; Fri 11:30-13:30, 17:30-22:30; Sat 17:30-22:30; Sun 17:30-21:30; closed Mon. €€. AB

GUILD HOUSES

TACOS EL LUCHADOR Oh, the ceviche! The pungent cocktail of fish, chilli, coriander and lime juice is reason enough to visit El Luchador. But the other dishes on the small menu are full of flavour too. Soft maize tacos are the mainstay, with shrimps, meat or vegetables and always served with four freshly made sauces - add as you wish. Quite low-key, this is a great place for a few beers and no one will mind if the sauce doesn’t stay in the tacos.QE‑10, Konradstrasse 69, 8Museum für Gestaltung, tel. (+41) 44 271 72 00, www.elluchador.ch. Open 17:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 17:0001:00; closed Sun. Kitchen open 18:00 - 22:30. €. AB NEW LA BREA - SOCAL TACOS Paying tribute to the multicultural melting pot of Southern California and Los Angeles in particular, the tacos here come in true fusion style. Examples include tacos filled with fried chicken and kimchi flavoured pico de gallo salsa (Korean crispy chicken) or tacos with shrimp balls and pickled vegetables (Vietnamese shrimp balls). We enjoyed the unexpected combinations of ingredients, which create unique aromas, not to mention the tacos themselves, which are full of flavour. We also loved the posole soup (a hominy and green chilli stew) served as a side. You get four small tacos with your order and a side, but we recommend a mixed platter (minimum 2 people), so you can taste four different tacos. The casual style at LA Brea might also make you want to linger for an after-dinner cocktail. It is, however, a rather pricey treat, but what else would you expect from La La Land?QE‑9, Josefstrasse 59, 8Museum für Gestaltung, tel. (+41) 44 311 20 20, www.la-brea.ch. Open 11:30-13:30, 18:00-22:00; Fri 11:30-13:30, 18:0022:30; Sat 18:00-22:30; Sun 17:30-21:30. €€. AB

CHINESE

Zum Grünen Glas

Zurich’s guilds or zünfte are prestigious men’s clubs today, and many own a mediaeval guild house in the old town. Quite a few of these guild houses are also restaurants which cultivate a traditional, refined cuisine. ZUM GRÜNEN GLAS A little bit off the beaten track on the upper edge of Niederdorf, the Zum Grünen Glas offers notable Mediterranean-style cuisine in the noble atmosphere of an old guild house. The classic here is the beef tartar - it’s served either with basil and olives or Asian-style with wasabi and mango chutney. And yes, it’s very tasty. You will find fish, meat and some typical Zurich dishes like geschnetzeltes on the menu as well.QG‑13, Untere Zäune 15, 8Neumarkt, tel. (+41) 44 251 65 04, www.gruenesglas.ch. Open 11:30-14:00, 17:3023:00; Sat 17:30-23:00; closed Sun. €€. ABJ ZUNFTHAUS ZUR HAUE The all-wood panelled walls make for a stately atmosphere in the refectory of the guild house Haue. Unsurprisingly, they serve traditional Swiss food here. The capuns, a pasta dough wrapped in leaves of white beef on a creamy sauce were tasty, the veal liver came very tender and the rösti crispy. The waiter was very attentive, just as it should be.QG‑13, Limmatquai 52, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 252 33 62, www.zunfthaus-zur-haue.ch. Open 10:00-23:00; closed Sun. In Feb closed 14:00-17:30. €€. ABJ

LUCKY NOODLE The noodles in this state-of-the-art city centre venue really made an impression on us. We chose the dan dan mian (served dry as the chef recommended), and were quickly hit with an explosion of flavours. The noodles with minced pork and Si Chuan peppers were decorated with a bit of fresh cabbage, carrots and cilantro and a fiery sauce making it a truly flavourful dish. There are at least a dozen different noodle dishes on offer, all of them served either as a soup or what they call dry (but you still get sauce). The menu offers different dumplings too, but why not stick with the noodles, as they certainly made our day better, if not luckier.QE‑12, Sihlporte 3, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 558 28 27, www.luckynoodle.ch. Open 11:3014:00, 18:00-22:30; Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 18:00-22:00. €. ABJ facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

February – March 2020 19

Restaurants CHEESE RESTAURANTS

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The Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette originally come from the French-speaking areas of Switzerland. Fondue is a mix of melted cheese and white wine bubbling over a small burner which you dip bread cubes into, while raclette is pure melted cheese which is poured over boiled potatoes. The listed restaurants below are 5specialists. CHÄSALP Chäsalp is a former farm on top of Zürichberg, where fondue and raclette are now served in the ancient and recently renovated stable. This gives you a kind of alpine-hut experience, which makes the extra bit of travel up the hill well worth it. While there are 17 different kinds of fondue on offer, we recommend sticking to the house blend or the classic moitié-moité (we very much liked both). Take tram 5 or 6 to Kirche Fluntern and then bus 751 will drop you off right in front of the restaurant (all in all just 17 minutes from the main station).QTobelhofstrasse 236, 8Tobelhof (Bus 751), tel. (+41) 44 260 75 75, www.chaesalp.ch. Open 11:30-14:30, 17:30-24:00; Sat 10:00-14:30, 17:30-24:00; Sun 10:00-24:00. €€. AB FRIBOURGER FONDUESTÜBLI Fondue is considered a Swiss national dish, but some regions have more of a tradition than others. The canton of Fribourg prides itself on making some of the best fondues, and here you can choose between two different Fribourger cheese blends.QD‑12, Rotwandstrasse 38, 8Staufffacher, tel. (+41) 44 241 90 76, www.fribourger-fondue-stuebli.ch. Open 11:30-14:00, 18:00-23:30; Sat, Sun 17:30-23:30. €€. A RACLETTE FACTORY Raclette Factory offers raclette, but in fast food-style portions at the counter, hence the name. This gives you the opportunity to taste a handful of different cheese varieties on offer including the blue cheese option, which we immediately fell in love with.QG‑12, Rinder-markt 1, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 261 04 10, www.raclette-factory.ch. Open 11:30-22:30; Fri, Sat 11:30-23:30. €. AJ 20 Zurich In Your Pocket

HONGXI We’ll say it straight away: Hongxi serves excellent Chinese food. The dough of the steamed dim sum we had as a starter was thin, yet firm and the slices of pork with Hoisin sauce and chilli were simply heavenly. The sauce was thick, but not too sticky, and salty as well as sweet with just a hint of spiciness. In short, it’s the kind of flavour that makes you want to eat more of it immediately. The steamed lobster tail was tender, the spring onions and the roasted garlic a perfect match for this decadent crustacean. Finally, the mango and grapefruit soup was just the finish we were looking for. Our only complaint would have to be the kitchen’s ventilation system, which doesn’t seem to be up to the task. However, the incredible cuisine made us quickly overlook this small point. Expect to be seated at tables with other guestsQD‑11, Zwinglistrasse 3, 8Sihlpost/HB, tel. (+41) 43 549 20 20, www.hongxi-restaurants.ch. Open 11:30-14:00, 17:30-22:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€. A

FINE DINING NEW NEUE TAVERNE At Neue Taverne vegetables are king and chef Nenad Mlinarevic and his team conjure up genuine delicacies on every plate. Dishes are ordered to share here and there are usually roughly a dozen different plates on offer. The briefly fried cabbage with tapioca and Hollandaise sauce we had was a divine combination, the fireweed with chive and blinis delicious and the tagliolini pasta with shimeji mushrooms and kotteri sauce was a real treat. In fact, we were impressed with everything we experienced here, including the friendly service, and the atmosphere in this wood-panelled old town tavern is cosy. If we were to try to find one flaw it would have to be the congested seating in certain areas, but this is also quite common in Zurich. Bear in mind that not all dishes are vegetarian and vegan options are available, too. Recommended.QF12, Glockengasse 8, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 221 12 62, www.neuetaverne.ch. Open 11:30-14:30, 18:00-24:00; Sat 18:00-24:00; closed Sun. €€€. ABJ

Divine food on stylish plates to share at Neue Taverne. Lukas Lienhard

zurich.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants MÉMOIRE At Mémoire the tables are set in the kitchen and its subterranean location at the bottom of a former silo once owned by local brewery Löwenbräu isn’t its only unique feature. Chef Chris Züger will create a lovely menu right in front of your eyes with local ingredients that can be ordered in three to five courses (around 85 -120Sfr). We chose four courses and it looked a little something like this. Fresh goat cheese, grilled spring cabbage and dim sum were served on a brick as an appetiser, which was then followed by heirloom wheat ravioli filled with mashed mangold and sushi and sashimi of Swiss salmon. A variety of carrots presented as chips, a cake and as foam were served as a vegetarian main. But don’t worry. There’s plenty of meat to be had, too! We finished with a piece of sheep’s milk cheese and a small panna cotta. The service was both professional and friendly. We also recommend that you listen to sommelier Paul who will ask you what kind of wine you like and then suggest some bottles to choose from, which is much easier than studying an extensive wine list. QD‑7, Limmatstrasse 254, 8Dammweg, tel. (+41) 76 580 10 57, www.restaurantmemoire.ch. Open 19:0023:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun. €€€€. A WYSTUBE ISEBÄHNLI This small, old town tavern combines gourmet cuisine with an excellent selection of wine. A unique menu is available that changes every week and you can order either four or six courses (4 courses around 110Sfr). The wild salmon starter on a watermelon-dill gazpacho was a refreshing flavour combination and the tomato salad with burrata cheese was topped with a remarkable vanilla-lemon emulsion. A tuna tartar with cucumber and wasabi foam was served before we received the highlight of the evening, black Angus beef with carrot purée. All in all, this is very imaginative cuisine that creates extraordinary flavours, which we thoroughly enjoyed. Isebähnli also has one of the largest collections of wine we know of. The Bordeauxs go back to the 1940s, but you’ll also find Super Tuscans as well as bottles from Spain, Austria and farther afield. The wait staff are happy to offer advice, but bear in mind that all of this comes at a price. QG‑12, Froschaugasse 26, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. +41 43 243 77 87, www.isebaehnli.com. Open 12:00-14:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 15:00-24:00; closed Sun. €€€€. AJ

VEGETARIAN & VEGAN TIBITS The bounteous vegetarian buffet is the focal point of tibits - where everybody queues up to choose from around 40 home-made salads, hot daily specials, soups, sandwiches and sweets. It’s more than plain tasty, believe us. tibits is very popular for lunch, dinner or coffee with all kinds of people. Sister restaurant ‘tibits Bistro Zürich’around the corner at Falkenstrasse 12, (+41) 44 260 32 12 (open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00). QH‑15, Seefeldstrasse 2, 8Opernhaus, tel. (+41) 44 260 32 22, www.tibits.ch. Open 06:30-23:00; Fri 06:30-24:00; Sat 08:00-24:00; Sun 09:00-23:00. Food served until 30 min before closing. €. ABSJ NEW SPRÖSSLING This café is completely vegan. The salmon in the sandwiches is made from carrots, the egg filling in the croissant is a clever substitute and all of the pastry is naturally baked without any butter. For lunch you can take your pick of gratins, burgers made from beans and the like. The so-called planted chicken (made of peas and oil) served with a vegan mushroom cream sauce and rösti was impressive. This is also a cosy place to have a coffee with friends.QF‑6, Hotzestr. 65, 8Schaffhauserplatz, www.sproessling.info. Open 07:00-20:00; Sat 08:00-18:00; closed Sun. €. AB

VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT & BAR

FRENCH BRASSERIE LIPP The real French brasserie experience in Zurich: sauerkraut (choucroute) with sausages, mussels with French fries, and a rich choice of sea food including oysters. The Art-Deco interior gives you a real feeling of Paris - but it’s in fact just off Bahnhofstrasse. The lift takes you up to the Jules Verne panorama bar in the tower of the city’s observatory, a great place to finish your evening with a cocktail and stunning views over the city.QF‑12, Uraniastrasse 9, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 43 888 66 66, www.brasserie-lipp.ch. Open 08:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00; Fri 08:00-01:00; Sat 11:3001:00. Kitchen open until 24:00. €€€. ABJ facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

3 x IN ZURICH Seefeldstrasse 2, Falkenstrasse 12, 8008 Zürich Tramstrasse 2, 8050 Zürich www.tibits.ch |

February – March 2020 21

Restaurants LUMIÈRE At the Lumière, the cuisine and the style is traditional French. The speciality of the house is Entrecôte Café de Paris, a tender cut of beef on a butter based sauce, served with pommes allumettes, slender french fries. We definitely liked it. Besides beef there is coq au vin (chicken) and duck on the menu. The place is small, space is a bit scarce, the service is attentive and the recommended grappa was delicious and unsurprisingly expensive.QF‑12, Widdergasse 5, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 56 65, www.restaurant-lumiere.ch. Open 11:3014:30, 18:00-23:30; Sat 12:00-14:30, 18:00-23:30; closed Mon, Sun. €€. AJ

and one for dinner (including a vegetarian variation), but during the day you start with a salad bowl followed by a trip to the open-plan kitchen where you can pick up a main course directly from the chef. You can even go back for a second helping and a small dessert is also included for only 25Sfr! We loved the grill cheese sweet and sour with rice and vegetables and the sauce was simply divine. In the evening a three-course menu can be enjoyed for 58Sfr and, best of all, nearly everything here is homemade. They even have their own dairy in the back!QE‑10, Zollstrasse 37, 8Sihlquai/HB, tel. (+41) 44 206 50 60. Open 07:0024:00; Sat, Sun 08:00-24:00. ABJ

INTERNATIONAL

ITALIAN

SCHIWAGO Schiwago is a little off the beaten track in the Wiedikon district, but well worth the visit. The guest room here is decorated with a conglomeration of photos from around the world, deer antlers, some kind of shrine and even a perfume display box with a tiger pattern. Fancy and bizarre, this is the new kingdom of one of the city’s most original culinary entrepreneurs, Christian Egger. He changes the menu regularly, but it always features some Swiss fair like roast beef, game (in season), cordon bleu and sometimes some more exotic dishes as well. Much to our pleasure, we found moules et frites on the menu, one of the classics that he’s offered at his earlier endeavours. The sauce was simply sublime. We also enjoyed the schupfnudeln (potato noodles) with mushrooms and the seasonal salad as a starter. All in all, a laudable establishment that differs from the chic, safe and more generic restaurants of the city centre, but bring cash as Schiwago doesn’t accept credit cards!QA‑12, Bertastrasse 76, 8Goldbrunnenplatz, tel. (+41) 44 241 22 28, www.levante.ch. Open 17:00-24:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€. NB

IL GIGLIO Simple and down-to-earth Italian cuisine, that’s what chef Vito Giglio has been offering for years now with great success in his small ristorante. As Vito cooks with fresh ingredients from the market only, the handwritten menu changes daily. Choose from three starters and two main courses for lunch or go for the four-course menu in the evening (around 90Sfr): home-made pasta, meat and vegetables as a side dish and sweets. The Il Giglio is pricey, but serves excellent food.QD‑13, Weberstrasse 14, 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 242 85 97, www.ilgiglio.ch. Open 11:00-14:30, 18:30-23:30; Sat 18:30-23:30; closed Sun. €€€. AB

Werkstatt: an original concept and contemporary design.

Daniel Ammann

NEW WERKSTATT ZUR GLEISTRIBÜNE ‘The Workshop’ is serious about its concept and we have to admit that we like it. Each table has its own toolbox, where you’ll find cutlery, bread, homemade salad dressing and even syrup to flavour the tap water that’s provided. There is usually one ever-changing menu available, one for lunch 22 Zurich In Your Pocket

ITALIA Simple, unspectacular, but nevertheless outstanding Italian cooking. Start with a misto salumi, a selection of the almost twenty Italian sausages in stock, then continue with some pasta (we recommend linguine nere con gamberi, panna e pomodori - black pasta with shrimps, cream and tomatoes) as a first dish and then choose the galeton al diavolo (chicken on hot sauce, not always available) - or skip the pasta and leave some space for sweets. The Italia is a wine lovers paradise: there are 24 different wines served by the glass. The futuristic wine tasting machine makes sure the wines don’t oxidise and the quality stays perfect.QD‑11, Zeughausstrasse 61, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 43 233 88 44, www.ristorante-italia.ch. Open 11:30-14:00, 18:0024:00; Sat 18:00-24:00; Sun 18:00-23:00. Kitchen open until 22:00, Thu - Sat until 22:30. €€. AB PANEOLIO The tiny tavern Paneolio is a great place to go for a generous helping of italianità. The atmosphere in here is chatty, the seating arrangement tight and the charming all Italian waiter patiently explains the changing all Italian menu. The pasta and the lamb chop we had were really good, but even better was the mixed antipasti platter with vegetables and dry meat. They usually also have many fish options. A really good choice, but not cheap.QD‑12, Cramerstrasse 8, 8Werd, tel. (+41) 44 240 02 50, www.paneolio.ch. Open 11:30-14:00, 18:00-22:30; Sat 18:00-22:30; closed Sun. €€€. AB zurich.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants THE ONLY REAL STEAKHOUSE IN ZÜRICH

SPLÜGENSTRASSE 2, ZÜRICH

STEAKHOUSES Despite the trend towards vegetarian and vegan food, Zurich has experienced a real renaissance in terms of steakhouses and meat restaurants over the last couple of years. Today you can find anything from Argentinian steakhouses and establishments specialising in French-style entrecôtes (with secret sauces) to small delicatessens with more of a nose-to-tail approach. We found that the meat quality in Zurich is consistently high, but nevertheless here are some of our favourite steak and meat restaurants that we’ve encountered in Zurich. Check www.zurich.inyourpocket.com for more options. GOODWIN - THE STEAK HOUSE Goodwin is a recently opened classy steakhouse located in the Alden hotel, close to the lake. It offers all the traditional beef cuts from porterhouses to T-bones, the meat usually originating in Australia or the US. We ordered the rib-eye and received a juicy piece of meat cooked to a perfect medium rare and the charcoal oven definitely added some extra flavour. The mashed potatoes with Dorblu cheese was incredibly smooth and an excellent pairing with the flavour of the meat. The décor of dark leather benches and chairs, brass lamps and black and white photos on the walls is elegant and our waiter was professional and attentive. Some fish and other seafood are also available, as well as a good selection of wine, not to mention a bar for a pre- or after-dinner drink.QD‑15, Splügenstrasse 2, 8Tunnelstrasse/Rentenanstalt, tel. (+41) 44 558 88 37, www.goodwin-steakhouse.ch. Open 06:30-23:00. €€€. ABJ SCHNUPF We like simple concepts, especially if they’re executed well and that’s definitely the case at Schnupf. The menu offers steaks, Argentinian entrecôtes to be precise, served with classic béarnaise sauce and fries. That’s pretty much all they do, but, oh, they do it so well. The steak was tender with a strong meaty flavour, the béarnaise creamy and rich and the thinly cut fries were perfectly crispy. And best of all, you can order as many of those facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

WWW.GOODWIN-STEAKHOUSE.CH

tasty fries as you like! Schnupf has the added benefit of a pleasant traditional tavern-style atmosphere and even features some great cocktails. Why not order one of those for dessert?QD‑10, Neufrankengasse 29, 8Bäckeranalage, tel. (+41) 44 291 92 73, www.schnupf.bar. Open 17:00-24:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00-02:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€. A SIMON’S STEAKHOUSE When you enter Simon’s in the Niederdorf section of the old town, you’re instantly faced with the core of its kitchen - the flame grill. Luckily the grill and the whole kitchen are behind a glass partition, so only the chef handling the meat has to deal with the smoke and the flames. Argentinian and US beef are served here and the latter is dry-aged between 30 and 90 days. We chose the bife de chorzio (entercote) and the bife de lomo (fillet) with fries and grilled vegetables. Both pieces of meat were expertly grilled, tender and quite flavourful. The chimchurri and bearnaise sauces complemented the beef and even the tomato soup we had as a starter was beyond reproach. However, we recommend a table in the back of the big dining room as the atmosphere is more pleasant and there’s no cold air from the entrance or noise and smoke from the kitchen.QG‑12, Niederdorfstrasse 13, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 260 56 46, www.simon-steakhouse.ch. Open 11:00-24:00; closed Mon. ABJ

Goodwin - The Steak House

February – March 2020 23

Restaurants JAPANESE KOKORO This small Japanese restaurant convinced us with great food and friendly service by the Japanese staff. After an excellent spicy tuna tartar, we continued with salmon and avocado maki and finished off with a fried chicken gorgonzola sushi roll, a truly novel taste experience. All the food was produced directly in front of us. With the changing mix of traditional and modern variations of Japanese cuisine, this is more than just another sushi bar. Recommended.QD‑10, Neufrankengasse 25, 8Bäckeranlage, tel. (+41) 44 241 37 37, www.kokoro-restaurant.ch. Open 11:30-14:00, 18:3022:30; Sat 18:30-22:30; closed Mon, Sun. Last orders 14:00/21:45. €€. AB MIKI RAMEN Miki Ramen is an adorable, simply decorated small venue where the Japanese ramen noodles are homemade and firm. The broth of our miso ramen was flavourful and salty and the extra egg and spring onions weren’t just there for decoration. You can sit on small tables or on a kind of bar directly facing the kitchen, where you can watch how your meal is prepared. For lunch you might have to queue, but in the evening it takes

BEER HALLS RHEINFELDER BIERHALLE The Rheinfelder is one of the oldest beer halls in town: a place where workers, students, and business men alike go for the big portions, good prices and traditional down-to-earth food - and lots of beer of course. The waiters have a rough charm, but usually serve the desired dishes quickly: schweinsleberli (pork liver), bratwurst, kidney, rösti or chnöpfli (small ball-shaped noodles). If in doubt go for the jumbo-jumbo cordon bleu that the Rheinfelder is famous for. But beware: the waitress will poke fun at you if you can’t take this piece of meat the size of an elephant’s ear.QG‑11, Niederdorfstrasse 76, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 251 54 64, www.rheinfelderbierhalle.com. Open 09:0024:00. Kitchen open until 23:15. €. ABJ RHEINFELDER BIERHAUS (BLUETIG DUUME) Known to locals as the bloody thumb (Bluetig Duume) this no-frills beer hall serves Swiss and Zurich specialities: züri gschnätzlets (veal) with rösti, schweinsleberli (pork liver), marinated beef with dumplings or snacks like fleischkäse (a kind of meat pàté served hot) with bread. Prices are moderate, the atmosphere is rustic. Service is more straightforward than overfriendly. QG‑12, Marktgasse 19, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 29 91, www.restaurant-rheinfelderbierhaus.ch. Open 09:00-24:00. Kitchen open 11:00 - 23:00. €. ABJ 24 Zurich In Your Pocket

reservations.QB‑11, Sihlfeldstrasse 63, 8Lochergut, tel. (+41) 44 450 37 76, www.miki-ramen.ch. Open 11:45-14:30, 18:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 18:0023:00. Kitchen closes 14:00 & 22:00. €. AB

Flavourful broth, and excellent noodles at Miki Ramen.

ZIYP

OOKI Although we have to admit that we haven’t been to Japan recently, the simple style of Ooki is what we imagine a trendy venue in Tokyo would look like, especially the bright wood panelling, the Japanese characters and the assorted knick-knacks. Japanese chef Ooki and his son specialise in ramen and udon noodle soups, kareeraisu (Japanese curry) and donburimono (rice dishes with toppings). We began our culinary journey with some ippinryouri, which are like tapas, and then moved on to gyoza dumplings, which were a real treat. The soups were also perfectly prepared, especially the thick udon noodles, which were remarkable. To finish off the experience we ordered ice cream served in a tasty rice dough. Reservations are essential, but if you can’t get one, try dropping by late and you might just find an empty seat or two.QB‑12, Zentralstrasse 53, 8Schmiede Wiedikon, tel. (+41) 44 461 15 86, www.ooki.tokyo. Open 11:30-14:00, 18:0024:00; Sun 18:00-22:00; Sat 18:00-24:00; closed Mon. €€. AB

MEDITERRANEAN BAR BASSO We like the style at the Basso - it’s modern and pure, without being super-cooled. The Italian-Alpine menu is also definitely worth a mention, offering e.g. tasty tartar, excellent cheese lasagne, served not in layers but open, so to speak and some great cuts of meat too. They also have a wood-fire oven for genuine pizze. If in doubt, go for the 5-course taster menu. The service is attentive and fresh, and on a sunny day, their colourful outdoor tables just overlooking the Schanzengraben canal are a lovely place to enjoy a good cup of coffee.QE‑12, Sihlstrasse 59, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 497 25 28, www.barbasso.ch. Open 08:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; closed Sun. €€. ABJ zurich.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants LES HALLES This garage-style restaurant offers mostly organic food from around the Mediterranean with a particularly French touch. The ever fresh moules et frites (mussels with French fries) are what a lot of people come here for, or the tasty beef tartar. The restaurant works like a market hall: you place your order at the kitchen corner and it‘s served to your table. It’s always very busy and loud - so come here rather for the outstanding fresh food and the industrial style than for a quiet evening with your significant other. There is also a delicatessen in the back. And since autumn 2019 credit cards are finally accepted!QB‑8, Pfingstweidstrasse 6, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 273 11 25, www.les-halles.ch. Open 11:00-24:00; Thu 11:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-02:00; closed Sun. Kitchen open until 13:45/22:00, Sat 18:00 22:00, snacks & tapas througout. €€. AB

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MIDDLE EASTERN BEBEK This restaurant is an architectural mezze platter: concrete walls, mosaic floors, high ceilings, chandeliers and a peekthrough window to the neighbouring tram shed. We love the mix of concrete and orient. The menu is dominated by food from Lebanon, Greece and Turkey. We tried the all-you-caneat mezze platter - and loved what we got: skewers of chicken and köfte, tabouleh, tzatziki mousaka and much more, everything was excellent. You can also order the different mezze as small portions. The service is a bit nonchalant, but friendly.QB‑12, Badenerstrasse 171, 8Kalkbreite, tel. (+41) 44 297 11 00, www.bebek.ch. Open 07:00-24:00; Fri 07:00-01:00; Sat 08:00-01:00; Sun 08:00-24:00. Kitchen open throughout until 23:00. €€. AB

Pfingstweidstr. 6, 8005 Zürich, les-halles.ch

slow.QG‑13, Schifflände 5, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 252 83 70, www.libanesisch.ch. Open 11:30-15:00, 18:0024:00. Kitchen open until 14:30/22:30. €€. ABJ

SWISS As it’s sometimes hard to tell what Swiss cuisine really is (see Swiss cuisine p. 27), we list some traditional restaurants here as well as some that interpret Swissness in a modern way. If you want to try the Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette, see the box on p. 20. We list the traditional Zurich beer halls in a separate category overleaf. They serve generous helpings of earthy local food - definitely not a bad way to explore Swiss cuisine either.

Au-Gust is all about looks, but the food is great, too.

LE CÈDRE - BELLEVUE This is the city branch of the original Le Cèdre (Badenerstrasse 78, (+41) 44 241 42 72), which opened more than 20 years ago as one of the first Lebanese restaurants in town. And we can confirm that it serves the same excellent cuisine that host Maurice Houraibi stands for. On offer are more than 100 different types of mezze (cold and warm starters) with all kind of mystic tastes unfamiliar to Western tongues. There are also lamb, veal, poultry and fish dishes. Service tends to be a little facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

AU-GUST (WIDDER HOTEL) Black and white tiling, industrial style lamps and an open kitchen: the Au-Gust definitely looks stylish. But it’s not only looks - the food is a treat too. They major on meat, not on steaks like everyone else but on cold cuts, sausages, terrines, carpaccios and innards (well, beef filet is available too). Our fleischkäse (Swiss style meat loaf) was bursting with flavour. We’re not usually passionate about innards, but the tripe Zurich style with its spicy sauce changed our minds on this one. No reservations - in case there is no space, you can simply wait in the in-house Widder bar until they call you.QF‑12, Rennweg 1, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 224 28 28, www.august.ch. Open 11:30-23:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-23:00. Breakfast 06:30-10:30, Sat & Sun 06:30-11:00. €€. ABJ February – March 2020 25

Restaurants NEW CAFÉ BOY Despite its name, this is actually a restaurant and it’s hardly immature either. Just beyond Langstrasse, in a former working-class area, Café Boy occupies a building of Bauhaus-inspired elegance from the 1910s. Since autumn 2019, a cooperative from the ranks of the Social Democrats has taken over, and it serves ever-changing, locally sourced dishes. The polenta we had was finegrained and creamy and the winter vegetables (think Brussels sprouts, carrots and the like) that came with it were refreshingly crunchy. It usually also has Swiss dishes like boiled meat or meat loaf on offer and one pasta, soup or similar dish for below 20 Sfr. Intended as a meeting point where political ideas can find a voice, it’s a good place to drop by for a beer and some political discourse with the regulars.QB‑11, Kochstrasse 2, 8Lochergut, tel. (+41) 44 240 40 24, www.cafeboy.ch. Open 11:30-14:30, 17:30-23:30; Sat 17:30-23:30, Sun 17:30-22:00. €€. AB NEW DREI STUBEN The wood panelling on the ceiling and the walls give this old tavern a genuinely rustic atmosphere and the cuisine on offer is probably best described as modern and refined Swiss. We chose the five-course meal and it proved to be an excellent decision. Everything was carefully prepared, be it the tuna tartar on guacamole, the porcini mushroom soup with tender venison or the homemade tagliolini pasta with clams. However, the highlight of the meal was the perfectly delicate beef fillet served with a fortified wine sauce. Most of these dishes can also be ordered à la carte with other traditional local favourites like geschnezeltes with rösti (sliced meat with hash browns) or meat loaf. We had a splendid evening, made even better by both the friendly service and the wine selection.QG‑9, Beckenhofstrasse 5, 8Beckenhof, tel. (+41) 44 350 33 00, www.dreistuben.ch. Open 11:00-15:00, 17:00-24:00; Sat 17:00-24:00; closed Sun. €€€. AB

SPANISH MADRID Not surprisingly given it’s name, the Madrid serves exclusively Spanish cuisine. The menu is long with plenty of grilled fish and meat, the classic paella (minimum 2 pers.) and some more unusual dishes, which remain clearly committed to the Spanish origins. The cooking is of high quality, service professional. The slightly dated interior has a sprinkling of Iberian kitsch, while the outside tables are in the cobbled streets along the two sides of this corner house.QG‑12, Brunngasse 12, 8Rudolf-Brun Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 251 13 33, www.restaurantmadrid.ch. Open 11:30-24:00. Kitchen closes 23:00. €€€. ABJ 26 Zurich In Your Pocket

KRONENHALLE The Kronenhalle is Zurich’s most legendary restaurant: top bankers, artists, authors, editors-in-chief and celebrities come to the famous brasserie on Bellevueplatz as well as a mix of (well-dressed) ordinary people. Lots of dark wood and original paintings by Mirò and Picasso on the walls give the brasserie its classic, yet old-fashioned look. The food (schnitzel with cucumber salad, bouillon with liver dumplings) is good to be sure, if a bit pricey, but many people simply come here to see and be seen. There is a salon for private dinners and a cocktail bar.QG‑14, Rämistrasse 4, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 262 99 00, www.kronenhalle.com. Open 12:00-24:00. Kitchen open until 23:15. €€€€. AXJ

The food at Café Boy certainly has the looks, but it also has the flavour. PD

MARKTHALLE Eat a contemporary mix of Swiss and international cuisine in Zurich’s only market hall, located underneath a railway overpass (part of the Im Viadukt shopping mall). Start with a portion of fresh sausages or go for the awesome seafood platter with prawns, tuna tartar, octopus and oysters. There are also some small appetisers like tartars and artichokes, all of which are easy to share. For mains Markthalle majors in beef, chicken and fish, but if you’re touring in numbers order a whole fish or a côte de boeuf (check available sizes on the blackboard). The beef and the turbot we had were excellent, not unlike the grappa that was offered. And don’t worry if it feels like an earthquake has just begun. It’s just a train passing overhead.QC‑8, Limmatstrasse 231, 8Dammweg, tel. (+41) 44 201 00 60, www.restaurant-markthalle.ch. Open 09:00-24:00; Mon 09:00-23:00; closed Sun. Kitchen open 11:30 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 22:30. €€. AB WIRTSCHAFT IM FRANZ If a long menu makes you nervous, Wirtschaft im Franz might just be the alternative you’ve been looking for as only a handful of dishes is available here for each course. It’s that simple and we were pleasantly surprised to discover that there are at least as many imaginative vegetarian options as there are meat and fish dishes. zurich.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants SWISS CUISINE

Dining below Picassos and Miròs at Kronenhalle.

Wooden tables and deep black chairs make for a relaxed atmosphere in this courtyard building where the food is seasonal and of local origin. Some offerings can even be described as daring, yet the quality is consistently extraordinary. The service is also outstanding, and can best be summed up as casual, yet attentive. Recommended. QB‑12, Bremgartnerstrasse 18, 8Bahnhof Wiedikon, tel. (+41) 43 558 44 22, www.wirtschaftimfranz.ch. Open 11:30-14:00, 18:00-24:00; Sat 18:00-24:00; closed Sun, Mon. €€€. AB WIRTSCHAFT NEUMARKT The lovely Neumarkt is tucked away in Zurich‘s old town. Step inside where the wooden beams and wrought-iron chandeliers make for an almost mediaeval, warm and quite elegant atmosphere. The very good, imaginative cooking is Swiss with some Mediterranean influences, for example the vegetable chickpea ragout with deep-fried eggplants. The chef uses mainly regional, additive-free produce as well as fish and meat from sustainable and ethical sources. In summer, book a table in their lovely old town garden. They also have a bar/café (with an amazing schnapps menu by the way) in art déco style if you just want to have a drink. QG‑12, Neumarkt 5, 8Neumarkt, tel. (+41) 44 252 79 39, www.wirtschaft-neumarkt.ch. Open 11:30-14:00, 18:00-23:00; closed Sun. Barcafé open 08:30 - 24:00. €€. ABJ ZEUGHAUSKELLER The Zeughauskeller (the arsenal) is situated in a mediaeval arsenal right on Bahnhofstrasse and serves good solid traditional Swiss fare: generous helpings of meat, sausages, schnitzel and roast. Popular with tourists, locals and lads out for the night, it’s a place where it’s easy to get to know people, as you share the big tables with other guests. Old military devices standing around are there to remind you where you are. So don’t get too drunk, or you might end up getting conscripted.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 28a, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 220 15 15, www.zeughauskeller.ch. Open 11:30-23:00. Kitchen open non-stop until 22:00. €. ABJ facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

What the Swiss like to eat at home and when out is heavily influenced by their neighbours’ cuisine, especially the Italians. But what is real Swiss cuisine? Most Swiss would probably say: käsefondue (cheese fondue), a hot soup of cheese and white wine eaten by dunking cubes of bread in it. Delicious, but the smell can take getting used to. Raclette is another cheese speciality, melted cheese on potatoes served with different pickles and sides. Würste or sausages are also very Swiss, the bratwurst (usually veal) and cervelat (pork) being the most common. Züri gschnätzlets is a traditional Zurich dish, thin strips of veal cooked in a cream sauce, often with mushrooms. This is often served with rösti, a cake of fried grated potatoes, a bit like Spanish tortilla but also on the list of Swiss traditionals. Switzerland also has an impressive range of breads to go with the cheeses, e.g. the rich zopf (plaited loaf ) is a favourite for Sunday breakfasts. Fondue chinoise and fondue bourgignonne are not traditionally Swiss, strictly speaking, but these two meat fondues are very popular too. Both involve dipping meat into a pot, full of either hot broth (chinoise) or oil (bourgignonne) and then enjoying with a range of sauces and sides.

Offers hearty traditional Swiss cuisine at affordable prices. Centrally located on Bahnhofstrasse at Paradeplatz.

open daily for reservations

11.30 – 23.00 +41 (0) 44 220 15 15 www.zeughauskeller.ch February – March 2020 27

Cafés Cafés in Zurich generally serve coffee Italian style (from ristretto to cappuccino) and many draw on the rich Swiss tradition of pastry and chocolate making. But there is no fixed definition of a café, most also serve alcoholic beverages, other snacks or even full meals and many double as bars in the evening rather than closing. BABU’S BAKERY You might have to queue to get one of this coffeehouse’s lovely sweets or excellent fresh sandwiches, but never mind, it’s worth every second of your time. Armchairs which remind us of our grandmothers’, wooden shelves filled with pottery and a fireplace make for a very cosy interior. And because you can not stay there forever, you can buy your favourite blend of coffee or tea, so you can enjoy some of Babu’s joys at home.QE‑12, Löwenstrasse 1, 8Sihlporte, tel. (+41) 44 212 87 45, www.babus.ch. Open 07:00-20:00; Sun 09:00-17:00. ABJ

BREAKFAST Sunday breakfast is an institution in many Swiss families. Zopf is one of the mainstays of Swiss breakfasts, a rich white bread baked in the shape of a braid, which is served with butter, jam, honey, cheeses or cold meats. Swiss bakeries bake a huge variety of breads - rye bread, corn bread or potato-and-walnut bread to name just a few - which add to the breakfast spread. Buttery croissants, called gipfeli, are also a favourite. Another breakfast dish with strong roots in Switzerland is müesli, made of oat flakes, grated apple, ground hazelnuts and yogurt in the birchermüesli version. Here are some of our favourite breakfast places: SPRÜNGLI, an impressive selection from pastries and egg dishes to classic müesli (07:00-11:00, Sat 12:00), three different brunch combos served on tiered stands (until 15:00) and a Sunday brunch buffet.Qsee below. BEBEK, different breakfast options including one with a Middle Eastern touch and add-ons like birchermüesli and waffles available daily until 16:00.Qsee p. 25. of day.QG‑12, Niederdorfstrasse 1, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 54 54, www.cafe-henrici.ch. Open 08:00-23:00; Sun 09:00-22:00; Mon 08:00-22:00; Fri 08:00-24:00; Sat 09:00-24:00. ABJ

The cosy feel of a backpackers’ paradise: Henrici.

HENRICI With the colourful jumble of tables and chairs, local graffiti art on the wall and its young staff, the Henrici has the cosy feel of a backpacker’s paradise. The wide range of food and drinks is crowned by the outstanding coffee. Apart from the classics like cappuccino or espresso, there are iced coffees, coffee cocktails and a selection of special blends. Foodwise they offer quiches and flammkuchen, a kind of Alsacian pizza with sour cream topping, among cookies and cakes from the in-house bakery. And as café and bar, it’s a good place for a drink at any time

SPRÜNGLI CAFÉ & RESTAURANT Sprüngli has been around for over 180 years and for locals it’s synonymous with excellent confectionery and chocolate. Their café is the place to stop for a coffee when shopping on Bahnhofstrasse. Try to get a window seat on the first floor overlooking Paradeplatz, order a coffee and choose something sweet from the display cabinet like their famous luxemburgerli (macaroons with a light and airy cream filling) or Swiss chocolate. They also offer many breakfast and brunch options including three different combos, which are served in style on tiered stands until 15:00.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 21, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 224 46 16, www.spruengli.ch. Open 07:0018:30; Sat 08:30-18:30; Sun 09:30-17:30. ABJK

BREAKFAST AT SPRÜNGLI’S Tradition since 1836

28 Zurich In Your Pocket

zurich.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife Zurich’s nightlife offers classy clubs, casual and alternative bars, as well as live-music venues and strip clubs. On the weekend people from almost half of Switzerland come to the city to have a good time. The main nightlife areas are Niederdorf in the old town (G-11/13), the streets around Langstrasse (C/D-10/11) and Zurich West (B/C-7/8). There is a lively club scene - but with dozens of bars around, barhopping can be just as much fun. A night out in Zurich can be great, but quite expensive. Most venues take credit cards, but if you’re heading for bars and clubs have some cash handy. If you prefer it on the quiet side, there are wine and cocktail bars in the old town and around Paradeplatz. Check out our listings. For more recommendations check www.iyp.me/zurich/nightlife.

SYMBOL KEY A Credit cards accepted

N No credit cards

E Concerts

K Restaurant

J City centre location X Separate smoker’s lounge

KANONAEGASS The bare brick walls contrast nicely with abstract geometric patterns here and the 1970s-style lamp shades at the bar add a little retro charm. There’s beer, drinks and cocktails and after 22:00, often DJs. If you’re lucky, co-owner Richard Dorfmeister will serve you a drink himself or get behind the turntables. You might have danced to his downbeats in the 1990s, when he was part of the very successful duo Kruder & Dorfmeister, or more recently, on their comeback tour. QD‑11, Kanonengasse 9, 8Sihlpost/HB, tel. (+41) 44 291 33 33, www.kanonaegass.ch. Open 17:00-02:00; Tue 17:00-021:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-02:30; closed Mon, Sun. A

CRAFT BEER BARS

At BierLAB, the brews are very much from here.

CASUAL BARS CORAZON Just opposite the Prediger church the Corazon attracts the young and beautiful - and lots of students trying to escape the Zentralbibliothek, Zurich‘s biggest library, on the other side of the square. The discrete bossa nova in the background and the tapas on the menu give the place a Latin touch. A good place for a coffee in the morning or a glass of wine or a cocktail in the evening. Occasionally concerts.QG‑12, Zähringerplatz 11, 8Rudolf-BrunBrücke, tel. (+41) 44 261 09 59, www.bar-corazon.ch. Open 09:00-24:00; Fri 09:00-01:30; Sat 10:00-01:30; Sun 12:00-22:00. AJE KAFI SCHNAPS On of the coolest places in the district of Wipkingen: this old butcher’s shop has been transformed into a bar and bed and breakfast. The white tiles on the floor and the walls from days gone by give the place a rough charm. The locals love it and it‘s crowded every night. Enjoy breakfast until 16:00 or grab a big bottle of tangy tasting Urweizen beer and some freshly baked, salty puff pastry as a snack and enjoy the seeing and being seen which goes on all night. QF‑7, Kornhausstrasse 57, 8Schaffhauserplatz, tel. (+41) 43 538 81 16, www.kafischnaps.ch. Open 08:0024:00; Thu, Fri 08:00-01:00; Sat 09:00-01:00; Sun 09:0024:00. A facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

BIERLAB Zurich’s Bear’n’Stein craft brewery has made this snug bar in a former district tavern its new home. They decided not to sell their beer in bottles, but rather on tap in their own bar. You can spot their pride and joy, a 500-litre brewing plant, behind a glass partition in the back. Six of their specialities are available on draught, all of which are named after pop songs like California Dreamin’ (a fruity IPA). Although they have more than a dozen fixed beer styles, each brew can still vary a little as the recipes are constantly being adjusted. It’s the beer lab, after all. Taster sets with four different beers (10Sfr) are also available as well as some snacks.QD‑12, Grüngasse 7, 8Werd, www.bierlab.ch. Open Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00-24:00. A

CASINO SWISS CASINOS ZÜRICH More than 350 slot machines and the table games roulette, black jack, punto banco and texas hold’em poker on two floors make this casino the largest in Switzerland. The stakes on the table games set in at 2 Sfr – with practically no upper limit. For your physical well-being there are two bars and a lounge. The casino also has a smoker’s section. To get access you need to be at least 18 years old, well dressed and have a valid ID card or passport with you. The entrance fee is 10 CHF after 19:00.QE‑12, Gessnerallee 3-5, 8Stauffacher / Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 330 30 30, www.swisscasinos.ch. Open 11:00-04:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-07:00. Table games start at 14:00, close 05:00. February – March 2020 29

Nightlife ADULT ENTERTAINMENT If you’re male and looking for the so-called ‘sins of the flesh,’ then Zurich has a lot to offer. Prostitution is legal in Switzerland, so you can find everything from strip bars and erotic massages to sex clubs and escort services in Zurich. While hardly an alpine Amsterdam, Zurich is an inviting destination if you’re looking for carnal pleasures and sexy ladies in various states of undress. Prostitution is not only legal but is also regulated by the city. Sex clubs need permission to operate and this is only granted if a business follows all of the security, health, social security and tax regulations, doesn’t place any undue pressure on the sex workers, ensures their health and guarantees violence prevention. For all these reasons, sex clubs are probably the best and safest option if you’re looking for sex in Zurich. Street prostitution is also regulated, but is only permitted in a few areas (i.e. Häringstrasse in the Niederdorf district) and only at certain times. For obvious reasons, street prostitution is harder to control than sex clubs and it’s much more likely that the workers you’ll encounter have been coerced into working as prostitutes or, even worse, are victims of human trafficking. Here are some reputable strip bars. Check our website www.iyp.me/zurich/adult-entertainment for more listings, massage parlours and sex clubs. Escort

THE ALEHOUSE With up to 21 different craft beers on draught and on the hand pump, Alehouse is one of the best-stocked bars of its genre in town. You’re guaranteed to find a brew that suits you here, be it a hoppy IPA, a Belgian amber or perhaps a chocolate stout. A good number of the beers on offer also happen to be local, but you’ll find a complete list of what’s currently available on its website. The bartender is usually happy to give you a taster before ordering and the pub-like atmosphere is a favourite of students and expats, many of whom speak English. If you feel the need to strap on the old feedbag, they also do classic bar fare like burgers, fish

The library of spirits at Old Crow is impressive.

30 Zurich In Your Pocket

services also seem to be popular, just search the internet. We believe the places we list to be upstanding businesses, but we still recommend employing simple common sense when delving into the world of adult entertainment. If in doubt, use cash and not your credit card. CALYPSO Located in Niederdorf, Calypso claims to have the only shower show in town. Apart from that there is the standard stage with two poles and a huge mirror in the back.QG‑11, Niederdorfstrasse 60, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 252 33 70, www.calypso-nightclub.ch. Open 19:00-04:00; Fri, Sat 19:00-05:00; closed Sun. RED LIPS STRIP CLUB | CABARET | NIGHTCLUB Red Lips is a classic strip bar in the Langstrasse nightlife district. A fully stocked bar is of course at your disposal as well as a stage where a variety of dancers perform striptease shows around a central pole. The current dancers are published on its website. You can sit on bar stools at high tables, on leather sofas or in booths, if you’re looking for more privacy. From Thu - Sat a DJ adds a little extra energy to the scene. Private dances are also available.QD‑11, Hohlstrasse 47, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 44 241 59 87, www.redlips.ch. Open 21:0004:00; Fri, Sat 21:00-05:00; closed Sun. A

and chips, chicken and salads.QH‑10, Universitätstrasse 23, 8ETH/Universitätsspital, tel. (+41) 44 542 87 45, www.alehouse.ch. Open 11:30-24:00; Sat 16:00-24:00; Sun 16:00-22:00. AK

CLASSY BARS GOETHE Situated on the ground floor of the Neue Zürcher Zeitung newspaper offices, this stylish bar offers everything a cocktail lover might want. The staff is fast even when the place is very crowded - be it at the bar or at your table. The red barstools, the black tables and the wooden shelf behind the bar give the place a classy atmosphere - the crowd honours this with their appearance: stylish, well dressed but not too chichi. They serve nice breakfast too.QH‑14, Sechseläutenplatz 10, 8Opernhaus / Stadelhofen, tel. (+41) 44 222 20 30, www.brasserie-schiller.ch. Open 07:00-24:00; Sun 09:0024:00; Fri 07:00-02:00; Sat 09:00-02:00. AJ OLD CROW The range of bottles behind the bar is truly impressive - over 1,150 spirits, apparently. The barkeepers are real aficionados, particularly regarding whisky, and some of the rarities on offer are from the private collection of one of them. Their bar has something of an English cottage seen from the street, inside the soft lighting, the mediaeval stone arch and the green leather benches make for a calm zurich.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife atmosphere. That means you can take your time to choose a cocktail, for instance a beer cocktail. If you need advice, the well-dressed staff will be glad to help. No reservations. QG‑12, Schwanengasse 4, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 43 233 53 35, www.oldcrow.ch. Open 17:00-00:30; closed Sun. AJ

COCKTAIL BARS 4 TIERE 4 Tiere impressed us with outstanding service and excellent cocktails. We were warmly welcomed by the waitress who naturally took our coats before seating us. A glass of water and a bowl of nuts were served before we chose our drinks, both of which were continuously refilled. More than 100 different gins and gin cocktail variations are listed on the menu, but we started with a Lemongrass Colllins, one of its signature drinks. The smashed lemongrass added a pleasant citrus flavour and the composition was well balanced. For our second round we chose a drink from the section labelled ‘forgotten cocktails’ and we weren’t disappointed. The Ford from 1896 was strong and a little bitter, but an excellent choice nonetheless.QC‑11, Feldstrasse 61, 8Bäckeranlage, tel. (+41) 44 240 00 88, www.viertiere.ch. Open 17:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 17:0001:00; closed Sun, Mon. A NEW MANUEL’S With dozens of different rums, a huge selection of coffee and a cigar lounge, Manuel’s might be one of the best places in town for lovers of all things Cuban or Caribbean. The ground floor features a smoke-free bar and a shop all in one, while the cigar lounge is located upstairs. Our mulata cocktail with aged rum, lime juice, crema de cacao liqueur and roasted cacao beans from the bartender’s very own cacao field was both tasty and aromatic. On the other hand, the cigar lounge is quite popular and the tables there feature integrated chess boards in case you want to play a round while smoking. A 10Sfr fee is charged if you want to smoke your own cigar on the premises, but you can of course buy one from the walk-in humidor.QE‑12, Löwenstrasse 12, 8Sihlstrasse/Löwenplatz, tel. (+41) 44 545 21 40, www.manuels.ch. Open 11:00-24:00; closed Sun. AJ

VINERIA CENTRALE We guarantee you will feel like you’re in Italy in this genuine, tiny venue! A few tables, a diagonal bar with some stools and a cordial host is all it takes, besides the friendly, easygoing crowd and maybe a glass of wine of course. But it’s not just an ideal spot to have a drink and a chat with friends. They also do great Italian food, be it appetizers or pasta or other mains (and a daily lunch deal). You’re on your own? No problem, as a chat comes easy here. It’s the Italian way, you know!QD‑9, Neugasse 42, 8Limmatplatz, tel. (+41) 76 513 22 04, www.vineriacentrale.ch. Open 11:00-01:00; Sun 17:00-01:00; Thu 11:00-02:00; Fri 11:00-04:00; Sat 17:00-03:00. AK

Manuel’s cigar lounge has a Cuban feel.

DANCE BARS KAUZ This is a real gem of a place. The 70s style crystal lamps and the projections on the walls give it a retro touch, the DJ sits cosily on a sofa, everything is just very smooth here. And the revellers are not as young as elsewhere. It’s quite a challenge finding this underground-style club in a basement though, as there is no outside sign at all. So here come the tips: just enter the black door next to the big metal gate with a ‘no parking’ sign on it. The building is located just next to the bus terminal behind the main train station. And yes, we think it’s totally worth looking for!QF‑10, Ausstellungsstrasse 21, 8Sihlquai/Hauptbahnhof, www.kauzig.ch. Open Thu Sat 22:00 - late. Usually no admission before 23:00. Check its website before you go. J

ALTERNATIVE BARS

PUBS, WINE BARS, TAVERNS

STALL 6 Once a stable for horses, nowadays Stall 6 is a watering hole for an alternative rather young clientele, who come for afterwork beers and nights out. The comfy sofas and armchairs are definitely an easy-going setting for a chat with some friends - or do you fancy a game of table football? On Fridays and Saturdays there is usually more action: bands and DJs hit the stage, usually at around 22:00, and don’t stop until the early morning.QE‑12, Gessneralle 8, 8Sihlpost, tel. (+41) 44 225 81 54, www.stall6.ch. Open 17:00-late; closed Mon, Sun. Admission for concerts and parties. J

KENNEDY’S IRISH PUB The Kennedy’s is an Irish pub with a large outdoor area, located close to the main train station. It’s popular with expats and locals alike. They have Guinness, Smithwicks and Magners Cider on tap and really helpful and friendly staff and of course all the major sports on different flat and big screens. Besides burgers, salads and sandwiches they do some genuine pies, for example a beef and Guinness one we liked very much. Pub Quiz on Monday nights!QE‑11, Freischützgasse 14, 8Sihlpost, tel. (+41) 44 241 92 94, www.kennedys.ch. Open 11:30-24:00; Sun 13:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 11:30-02:00. Kitchen closes 22:00. AEJK

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

February – March 2020 31

Nightlife GAMPER BAR This wine bar is run by the owners of the successful Gamper restaurant. We like the sober atmosphere of the locale that’s set by the plywood bar, the simple metal rack in the corner and the reddish leather chairs with some original patina. The glass mosaic on the window frames and part of the ceiling also act as a welcome contrast. Ask the barkeeper for the wines that are currently served by the glass. However they also have a comprehensive list of wines sold by the bottle of mostly small European wineries and offer some cold dishes like the delicious mozzarella with Speck (lardo) and fennel seeds we had or other snacks like olives, boquerones, salamettli and the like.QC‑10, Dienerstrasse 75, 8Bäckeranlage, tel. (+41) 43 243 78 78, www.gamper-bar.ch. Open 16:00-24:00; closed Mon, Sun. A OEPFELCHAMMER Oepfelchammer is best known for its wine tavern on the first floor called ‘Oeli’, which still looks like it did more than 200 years ago. A special challenge awaits you here: climb over two ceiling beams and then drink a free glass of wine hanging upside down. If you succeed, you’ll be allowed to carve your name into the wooden walls, a real honour. Give it a try, but be warned: it’s not as easy as it sounds. Make sure you respect the written house rules (i.e. no applause, just knocking on the tables) or the waiter will be happy to fine you 5Sfr. Traditional Swiss food with a modern touch in the refectory.QG‑12, Rindermarkt 12, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 23 36, www.oepfelchammer.ch. Open 17:00-24:00; closed Mon, Sun. Restaurant open Tue - Fri 11:30-14:00; 18:00-24:00; Sat 18:00-24:00. AJK

LIVE MUSIC VENUES Zurich offers all kinds of live music: jazz, pop, rock, metal, indie, gothic and much more. You will find bands playing somewhere every night of the week. The clubs and bars listed here focus on live music - we tell you what you can usually expect. Some are just open if there is a concert. For their daily programme, check the websites - or find all concerts on www.zueritipp.ch. EXIL National and foreign bands from indie rock through folk to electro, often hip hop and urban music, live on stage. After-parties until late.QB‑8, Hardstrasse 245, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 43 366 86 84, www.exil.cl. X ROTE FABRIK This centre of alternative culture funded by the city has about 100 concerts a year on their variously sized stages. On Tuesdays often concerts in the Ziegel oh Lac restaurant.QSeestrasse 395, 8Post Wollishofen, tel. (+41) 44 485 58 58, www.rotefabrik.ch. 32 Zurich In Your Pocket

Shake it baby, shake it! At Mascotte, that is.

CLUBS HELSINKI The Helsinki is a great little alternative bar and club next to Hardbrücke train station. Situated in a former garage, lots of Swiss and sometimes foreign bands hit the stage. The admission fee is usually low and if no one is playing live, there is a notable jukebox in a minimalistic and trashy atmosphere. QB‑8, Geroldstrasse 35, 8Escher-Wyss Platz, www.helsinkiklub.ch. Open Thu 20:00-01:30; Fri, Sat 20:00-04:00; Sun 20:00-02:00. Other days check programme. EN HIVE The Hive has set the pace of Zurich West’s nightlife for many years now and still does for house, techno and indie dance – which they play on different floors. The crowd from students to thirty somethings (usually) knows how to party. QB‑8, Geroldstrasse 5, 8Escher-Wyss-Platz, tel. (+41) 44 271 12 10, www.hiveclub.ch. Open Thu 23:00-04:00; Fri 23:00-07:00; Sat 23:00-09:00; sometimes afterhours on Sun. A MASCOTTE In this club you can feel the history: built around 1900 as a variété it has been a music and culture club ever since. Sammy Davis Junior and Louis Armstrong played here in the time of swing and big bands. Nowadays bands like Arcade Fire, The XX and MGMT played their first ever Switzerland shows here. But it’s a very popular party place too. International DJs (Martin Solveig, Jazzy Jeff ) and local heroes spin their tunes for all kinds of people: twens mix with thirty-somethings dressed from chic to indie. On Fridays the DJ usually plays all styles, on Saturdays the music is either house, disco, hiphop, electronic or Latin.QH‑14, Theater-strasse 10, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 260 15 80, www.mascotte.ch. Open Mon, Thu -Sat 23:00-late. AXEJ zurich.inyourpocket.com

Queer Zurich Zurich is undoubtedly Switzerland’s queer capital and is in general quite gay- and lesbian-friendly. What better proof than the re-election of lesbian Corinne Mauch as mayor in spring 2018 (in office since 2009)? Zurich’s vibrant queer scene was one of the driving forces in creating today’s club culture. Of course, some of the queer venues are cool places to hang out even if you’re hetero. Zurich’s queer calendar has several major events, all in spring or summer. For over ten years a Christopher Street Day has been held in June. Called Zurich Pride Festival (www.zurichpridefestival.ch) today, this is a huge event with parties, open-air bars and a colourful parade through the city. In spring, the Pink Apple film festival (April 28 - May 7, 2020, www.pinkapple.ch) shows gay and lesbian films from all over the world and awards a prize to one young director. But the queer scene is also very lively, big events aside. Whether you’re looking for a gay-friendly bar to relax in, gay and lesbian clubbing or venues of a more raunchy variety, you’ll find it in Zurich. Check out the websites we list or just ask around in some of the bars.

PETRA’S TIP TOP BAR Chanson - or what is called schlager in German - is at the top of the menu here. But there’s enough Abba, Boney M and what have you as well. Host Peter is well known - especially for his drag performances. A cosy place for some nostalgic merrymaking.QH‑12, Seilergraben 13, 8Neumarkt, tel. (+41) 44 251 78 20, www.tip-top-bar.ch. Open 18:3002:00; Fri, Sat 18:30-04:00; closed Mon, Sun. AJ PREDIGERHOF The Predigerhof in the centre of the Niederdorf area is a sure bet, open 365 days a year until two in the morning. Order one of their sandwiches and a beer - or step it up a little and choose one of their champagnes. Maybe Lotti, the famed landlady, will join you. You can ask the Thai and Swiss staff for tips for gay events - but maybe you’ll just want to stay here, if they’re showing a game of soccer or the Eurovision song contest.QG‑12, Mühlegasse 15, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 251 29 85, www.predigerhof.ch. Open 14:00-02:00. AJ

CLUBS HEAVEN The Heaven is a cosy queer club featuring music from charts and house to more underground tastes like deep house.QG‑12, Spitalgasse 5, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, www.heavenclub.ch. Open usually Fri & Sat 23:00 - 06:00/07:00. AJ

Love is celebrated at the Zurich Pride Festival.

Zurich Tourism

CAFÉS & BARS CRANBERRY Campari is a major theme in this minimalist bar - a play on the most famous Swiss German pop song Campari Soda? You can certainly order campari soda, but the team will make you most any other cocktail - and well. The Cranberry is a buzzing bar for gays, lesbians and anybody gay-friendly. There are occasional theme parties. Check out the website for some useful queer links.QG‑12, Metzgergasse 3, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 261 27 72, www.cranberry.ch. Open 17:00-00:30; Fri, Sat 17:00-02:00. AJ DANIEL H. Daniel H. is a low-key star in Zurich’s gay bar scene. With no exuberant glamour and just the occasional party, Daniel H. is very relaxed and heterofriendly. The finger food on offer is also quite a treat. Good place to pick up flyers on gay parties and events in Zurich.QD‑11, Müllerstrasse 51, 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 241 41 78, www.danielh.ch. Open 17:00-24:00; Fri 17:00-02:00; Sat 19:00-02:00; closed Sun, Mon. AK facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

RAGE Rage is a factory of a cruising club with all the works darkrooms, slings, tubs and, of course, bars. Sector C is fetish pure, with a strict dresscode and changing themes. Only men are admitted. Get there by train to Schlieren station or with bus 31 to the stop Wagonsfabrik. Nightbuses on the weekend.QWagistrasse 13, Schlieren, www.rage.ch. Thu 18:00-24:00; Fri 22:00-04:00; Sat 22:00-04:00; Sun 17:0001:00. A

RESOURCES GAYMEBOYS.COM ONLINE MAGAZINE This is a Zurich-centred gay online community with English-language content. There’s a chat area, personals and a listing of up-coming events and info on gay venues. It’s free, for some services you have to register.Qwww.gaymeboys.com. LGBT+ HELPLINE LGBT+ Helpline offers telephone counselling and operates as a registration office for homophobic violence. (In an emergency always call the police at tel. 117). Counselling is available Mon - Thu 19:00 - 21:00. In case of homophobic violence you can also report the incident online. Counselling is in German but many counsellors speak at least some English. It’s free to call. The number is (+41) 800 133 133.Qtel. (+41) 800 133 133, www.lgbt-helpline.ch. February – March 2020 33

Sightseeing

Winter can be beautiful! Especially at Lindenhof, the churches of the old town and at the lake. | Zurich Tourism

Zurich’s largely intact medieval town on the one hand and its natural setting on the other are the city’s charms. It also has an excellent range of museums and galleries showing international art. Admission to many places is free, if it does cost we indicate the full price followed by reduced price, usually the children’s price, e.g. 10/5Sfr. Museums are usually closed on Mondays.

MAIN SIGHTS If you ask someone from Zurich which of the city’s sights represents Zurich best, they’ll probably point to the Grossmünster, its unmistakable double towers making it the closest Zurich has to a landmark. Wasserkirche and Fraumünster complete the trinity of famous churches. Lindenhof is where Zurich started off and is a lovely spot today, while the central police station is another unlikely lovely spot - unless maybe you’re escorted there. Its entrance hall is splendidly decorated with work by Augusto Giacometti. But two of Zurich’s major attractions are not man-made at all: the lake and the Uetliberg peak. FRAUMÜNSTER Today most people come to Fraumünster to see the magnificent stained glass windows in the choir created by French artist Marc Chagall in the early 1970s, or the windows by Augusto Giacometti. But in days gone by this Gothic abbey dating from the 9th century was more than just pretty. Fraumünster, which literally means women’s abbey, belonged to the Benedictine convent whose abbess had wide powers in Zurich. Women came on harder times 34 Zurich In Your Pocket

in the 16th century. The little archway on the outer corner of Fraumünster (Poststrasse/Münsterhof ) was used to limit decadence and elaborate clothing, and women’s wide hoop skirts had to fit through here, or else a fine was due. Since summer 2016 the crypt is open to visitors. Be considerate, no photos, no visiting during Sunday services.QG‑13, Stadthausquai 19, 8Helmhaus, www.fraumuenster.ch. Open 10:00-18:00 (Nov-Feb 10:00-17:00). Admission 5Sfr, incl. audioguide (available in 8 languages) or brochure and admission to crypt museum. Children free. GIACOMETTI MURALS In the entrance hall to the city’s police headquarters, Augusto Giacometti’s (1877 - 1947) magnificent murals adorn the vaulted ceiling and the walls. We think this impressive work is a must see for any Zurich visitor! The Giacomettis were a family of artists: Augusto’s cousin Giovanni (1868 - 1933) and Giovanni’s son Alberto (1901 - 1966) were successful artists too. And while Alberto and his haggard bronze figures are probably the best known Giacomettis (you can see some of those figures in the permanent exhibition at Zurich’s Kunsthaus), Augusto had the strongest connection to Zurich, as he studied and later lived here. And the murals in the entrance hall of Zurich’s police headquarters (1923 - 1925) is not the only work of his you can see in the city: he revitalised the art of stained-glass windows, creating the choir windows in the Grossmünster (1932), the window depicting paradise in the northern transept of the Fraumünster (1945) and windows in the Wasserkirche. The murals however, remain the work he is best known for. Admission to the murals is zurich.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing free, the opening hours are quite short though.QG‑12, Polizeiwache, Bahnhofquai 3, 8Bahnhofquai/HB. Open 09:00-11:00, 14:00-16:00. Admission free, ID required. GROSSMÜNSTER The two towers of the originally Romanesque Grossmünster are Zurich’s landmark and they also offer a great view over Zurich, if you make it up the 187 narrow steps (5/2Sfr admission for the tower, open 10:00 - 17:30 (16:30 in winter), Sun 12:30 - 17:30 (16:30 in winter)). According to legend, Felix and Regula, Zurich’s patron saints, were beheaded at the site of the Wasserkirche and then walked up to where the Grossmünster stands, taking their heads with them. Centuries later the emperor Charlemagne was passing through Zurich and decided to found a church in honour of the martyrs - after a hint from his horse. Since the Reformation the church has a barren feel, alleviated only by the windows. German artist Sigmar Polke finished 12 simply beautiful windows in 2009, partly made of semi-precious stones. Crypt and cloister with a museum on the Reformation are also accessible.QG‑13, Grossmünsterplatz, 8Helmhaus, www.grossmuenster.ch. Open 10:00-18:00 (Nov - Feb 10:00 - 17:00).

View of the old town and wintry Uetliberg mountain. Zurich Tourism

UETLIBERG The Uetliberg is Zurich’s own little mountain, marking the end of the Albis mountain chain on the western side of Lake Zurich. It rises up to 869 metres a.s.l. - towering around 450 metres over the city. There is a lookout tower on top (admission 5Sfr) bringing you to exactly 900 metres a.s.l. and offering a stunning view over the city, the lake and on to the Alps. The mountain is a popular local recreation area all year round. There is a train (S10 from track 21 or 22) from the main station twice an hour (more on weekends). Be aware that you need an additional ticket even if you have a day pass for Zurich (with a day pass, buy a 1 - 2 additional zones’ day ticket at the ticket machine). From the terminal station it’s an easy 10-minute walk to the peak with the lookout tower and a restaurant. You can also walk up from the city to the peak. Take tram N°13 in direction Albisgüetli and get off at the last stop. From there two different paths lead to the top, both take about an hour. You do not need hiking equipment, but we recommend good shoes and staying on the path, especially in winter. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

LAKE ZURICH

Zurich Tourism

The lake is certainly one of the city’s highlights and a walk along the shores is a must, whatever the season. Start for example at Bellevue and walk along the promenade towards Zürichhorn. After a few hundred metres a park fills the expanse between the lake and the street. The huge Blatterwiese, also known as Chinawiese because the Chinese garden is just next to it, is popular for relaxing, sunbathing or playing sports. There is also a playground for kids. Continuing, you get to Zürichhorn, a small delta with some lakeside restaurants and later still to the railway station Tiefenbrunnen where you can hop on a tram (or train) back to Bellevue. The western shore of the lake is a bit less popular though just as nice for a walk. Start at the Arboretum and walk along the shore passing Enge port, the cactuses of the Sukkulentensammlung, and the Mythenquai until you reach the Landiwiese, a large field where many cultural events take place. If you go just a little further, you can enjoy a beer in the restaurant of the offstream cultural centre Rote Fabrik (red factory), marked by the red brick factory chimney. LAKE ZURICH CRUISES The Lake Zurich Navigation Company operates ships on Lake Zurich and the River Limmat. If you just want ten minutes of captains’ uniforms and brass foghorns, the routes Bürkliplatz-Wollishofen and BürkliplatzZürichhorn are included in any public transport ticket covering zone 110. If that’s not enough for you, go the whole hog with a roundtrip. There are different cruises all year round. They all start from the port at Bürkliplatz close to Bellevue several times a day. The short cruise (90 minutes) for example starts in winter daily at 12:40 and 14:10, more frequent on weekends, the 4-hour daily at 13:30. Tickets and timetables are available at the port. Standard public transport tickets are valid. QF‑14, Bürkliplatz, 8Bürkliplatz, tel. (+41) 44 487 13 33, www.zsg.ch. Tickets for roundtrips 8.80-26Sfr, children half the price, discount with Zurich public transport day cards. February – March 2020 35

Sightseeing MARKETS There are many markets in Zurich - from fruit and vegetable markets with farmers selling their own fresh produce to flea markets with all sorts of stuff. FLEA MARKET KANZLEI This is probably Switzerland’s biggest year-round flea market. Up to 400 people put their second-hand goods on sale here every Saturday, professional traders as well as people who are just flogging things they don’t need anymore.QC‑11, Kanzleistrasse 56, 8Helvetiaplatz, www.flohmarktkanzlei.ch. Open Sat 07:20-16:00. FRUIT & VEG MARKETS Zurich’s four outdoor food markets offer fresh, often organically grown produce from the region, mostly sold by the farmers themselves. You’ll also find fish from Lake Zurich, different meats and specialities from further afield like Italian salami or Greek cheese. Bürkliplatz (F/G-14), Tue & Fri, 06:00-11:00 Helvetiaplatz (D-11), Tue & Fri, 06:00-11:00 Oerlikon (G-1), Wed 06:00-11:00, Sat 06:00-12:00 Rathausbrücke (G-12/13), Sat 06:00-12:30 Qwww.zuercher-maerkte.ch.

MORE FOR LESS WITH THE ZÜRICH CARD You’re in town for only two days? Too short, but the Zürich Card can help you make the most of it. For a busy day or two in Zurich, you can’t really go wrong with the Zürich Card. It gives you free entry to a number of great museums like the National Museum and dozens more. It also gets you a 10% discount in lots of shops, e.g. Meng Cutlery or Vollenweider Chocolatier. You get free entry to several of Zurich’s best clubs and to the casino and many restaurants will give you dessert on the house with the card or some other extra, if you have a main course first. The Zürich Card also gives you unlimited use of trams, buses and trains within the city and includes the train trip from and to the airport, and the trip up to Zurich’s little mountain Uetliberg. Now that’s a deal!QThe Zürich Card costs 27/19Sfr for 24hr and 53/37Sfr for 72hr. Buy it at SBB counters, at the airport, train stations, at the tourist information at the main station or at all VBZ public transport sales points and from all ticket machines in town (stamp it before you set off!). Check www.zuerich.com/zuerichcard for the full range of discounts. The Zürich Card is issued by Zürich Tourism who cooperate with Zurich In Your Pocket. 36 Zurich In Your Pocket

LINDENHOF This idyllic square on a little hill in Zurich’s old town used to be an important place. The Romans set up shop here and later mediaeval royals would stay here when travelling in the region. Check out the replica Roman tomb stone in the right-hand wall of Pfalzgasse leading down and out of the square. The view from here over the Limmat is very pretty and on sunny days you can join in a game of chess at the back of the square.QG‑12, 8Rathaus.

CHURCHES See main sights at the beginning of this chapter for the churches Fraumünster and Grossmünster. ST. PETER St. Peter church is the one with the huge clock-faces on all four sides of the tower you can spot from far away. The diameter of the clock-faces is almost 9 metres - they are said to be the biggest in Europe. The first mayor of Zurich, Rudolf Brun, was buried here in 1360 - a copy of his tomb stone can be seen on the northern side of the church. The nave of the church was finished in 1706, while the choir and the tower date from a Romanesque church built in 1230. This was the first church in Zurich that was built as a Protestant place of worship after the Reformation.QF‑13, St.-Peter-Hofstatt, 8Paradeplatz, www.st-peter-zh.ch. Open 08:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-17:00; Sat 10:00-16:00.

MUSEUMS & ART Zurich is a real city of museums - there are 43 of them with all kind of exhibitions. We list the most popular ones and the ones we like best. You can find more information in English on all the museums on www.museen-zuerich.ch.

The impressive round cinema at the FIFA Football Museum.

ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM (VÖLKERKUNDEMUSEUM) From the Himalayas to Ethiopia, from Panama to Papua New Guinea, the treasures of the Ethnographic Museum (Völkerkundemuseum) come from cultures across the planet. They include cultic wood sculptures, intricately patterned textiles as well as collections of photographs and films shot by anthropologists over the past decades. The museum, which is pleasantly located in Zurich’s old botanical zurich.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing gardens, was renovated in 2014 and shows temporary exhibitions with different focuses.QE‑13, Pelikanstr. 40, 8Sihlporte, tel. (+41) 44 634 90 10, www.musethno. uzh.ch. Open 10:00-17:00; Sun 11:00-17:00; Thu 10:0019:00; Sat 14:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission free. FIFA WORLD FOOTBALL MUSEUM Zurich is the hometown of the International Federation of Association Football or FIFA. Its very own museum tells the history of football, FIFA and the World Cup over more than 3,000m². You’re initially met with the jerseys of all 211 FIFA member associations, which are on display in a kind of colour-coded rainbow, as well as a timeline that takes you through the history of FIFA. The second floor is dedicated to the World Cup complete with dozens of historic artefacts including the tracksuit that football’s first real star Pelé wore in 1958. And yes, the original FIFA World Cup trophy is also on display! The third and last floor is dedicated to the impact football has had and continues to have on society. There’s also a gaming zone with giant pinball machines where you and your kids can test your skills with actual footballs. The museum is great for football fans and families and a bistro, a café-bar, a shop and the Sportsbar 1904 can also be found at the museum.QE‑15, Seestrasse 27, 8Bahnhof Enge, tel. (+41) 43 388 25 00, www.fifamuseum.com. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 24/14Sfr, students 18Sfr, kids younger than seven free, families 64Sfr. For Tuesdays 50% discount when you book tickets online. KUNSTHAUS Zurich’s major art museum has an impressive collection with work by many Swiss artists such as Füssli, Hodler, Segantini or Bill and the largest collection of Alberto Giacometti’s work including some of his trademark haggard statues. Work by international artists like Manet, Van Gogh, Kokoschka or Baselitz also please the eye and mind. Additionally there are usually two very worthwhile temporary exhibitions. English language audioguides available. Café and shop on the ground floor.QH‑13, Heimplatz 1, 8Kunsthaus, tel. (+41) 44 253 84 84, www.kunsthaus.ch. Open 10:00-18:00; Wed, Thu 10:0020:00; closed Mon. Admission for collection 16/11Sfr, for exhibitions 23/18Sfr, combined ticket 26/19Sfr. Free admission to the collection every Wednesday.

Gaze at classic art at the Kunsthaus.

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CONTEMPORARY ARCHITECTURE

The rather harsh ‘Neue Einfachheit’ (new simplicity) is the style which was most readily associated with Swiss architecture in recent decades. More recently, architects in Zurich have shaken off the austerity and a number of architectural gems have been built in Zurich. KRAFTWERK 1 Architects: Bünzli/Courvoisier and Stücheli Architekten Kraftwerk 1 was built by a cooperative founded with the aim of experimenting with new types of living arrangements. Completed in 2000, the flats range between 2 and 13 rooms in size, making it possible for up to 15 people to share a flat and to organise their lives in ways beyond the traditional family.QHardturmstrasse 261 - 269, 8Bernoulli-Häuser. UNIVERISTY OF ZURICH LAW LIBRARY Architect: Santiago Calatrava Valls In a quest to create more space for the university without acquiring any new land, the Spanish architect who is based in Zurich added in 2004 two stories in steel and glass to this 1909 building. He also roofed the inner courtyard and set into it a series of elliptic steel balconies finished in wood, gaining even more space. From the bottom floor where one enters, this construction appears as an immense wooden sculpture (see photo above). Calatrava is also the creative spirit behind Stadelhofen train station (1984 - 1990).QG-3, Rämistrasse 74, 8Kantonsschule. Library open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00 (Nov - June). MUSEUM RIETBERG An internationally recognised collection of art from Asia, Africa and the Americas is on show at the Rietberg Museum, in permanent and temporary exhibitions. As of 2013, the Meiyintang collection of Chinese ceramic art has been added to this, in an all new interior, making the Rietberg perhaps the top address for Chinese art in Europe. The museum is housed in several period villas and pavillons, all set in Rieterpark.QD‑16, Gablerstrasse 15, 8Museum Rietberg, tel. (+41) 44 206 31 31, www.rietberg.ch. Open 10:00-17:00; Wed 10:00-20:00; closed Mon. 14/12Sfr. February – March 2020 37

Sightseeing SIGHTSEEING TOURS BEST OF ZURICH - ZÜRICH CITY TOUR Enjoy a city tour in an air-conditioned coach including a short stroll through the old town and a ride with the Dolderbahn rack-and-pinion railway up into the residential area of Zürichberg. In a little more than two hours you get to see Bahnhofstrasse and the financial district, the old guild houses and the universities. There’s live commentary in English and German as well as audio guides in Spanish, Russian, Chinese and Japanese. In addition to the city tour, the company also offers tours to Titlis, Pilatus, Rigi, the Rhine Falls and Jungfraujoch, just to name a few. Excursions for small groups and adventure packages are also available. Visit www.switzerland-tours.ch for more information. QF‑10, Bus Terminal Sihlquai, 8Sihlquai/HB, tel. (+41) 44 710 50 50, www.switzerland-tours.ch. Starts daily at 13:00 at the Sihlquai bus terminal. Tickets available on the spot, but reservation by phone/ website is recommended. Tickets 34/17Sfr, 10 - 20% discount with the Zürich Card. THE ZURICH EXPERIENCE CITY TOUR Ride around Zurich in a modern panorama coach. The two-hour tour gives you an overview of the city showing you the financial district, Bahnhofstrasse and a part of the old town including the Grossmünster, Fraumünster and St. Peter’s churches as well as the posh residential areas on Zürichberg. Commentary including some insights into the history of the city is provided via headsets in eleven languages (English, French, German, Italian, Spanish Japanese, Portuguese, Russian, Chinese, Hindi, Arabic). They also offer many other tours, including trips to Lucerne, Mount Pilatus, Jungfraujoch and more. See website for more tours. QF‑10, Bus Terminal Sihlquai, 8Sihlquai/HB, tel. (+41) 44 383 78 78, www.meiertours.ch. Daily 09:45, 12:00 & 14:00. Tickets 34/17Sfr, available on the spot, reservation by phone recommended. ZURICH OLD TOWN WALKING TOUR A professional guide will take you on this two-hour walk through the old town of Zurich. What links famous literati, scientists or visionaries such as Albert Einstein, Lenin and the Dadaists with Zurich? Discover the city’s history and listen to anecdotes from its past in English and German. Good choice if you really want to see the old town, where the bus tours can’t go. For other walks such as the ones on design and gourmet food or the E-bike city tour ask at the Tourist Information at the main station.QG‑11, Tourist Information Main Train Station, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 44 215 40 00, www.zuerich.com. Starts at the Tourist Information at the main train station. Nov - March Wed & Sun 11:00 (bilingual German/English), Sat 11:00 (German only) & 15:00 (English only). 25/12.50Sfr, 50% discount with Zürich Card. 38 Zurich In Your Pocket

MUSEUM FÜR GESTALTUNG ZÜRICH MUSEUM OF DESIGN The collection of Zurich’s design museum Museum für Gestaltung comprises more than half a million objects relating to poster and object design as well as applied art and graphics and is of international renown. The museum runs two locations and has regularly changing temporary exhibitions on both locations (see the Events section of this guide), often with works from its collection. The location on Ausstellungsstrasse close to the main station is in a listed building, an outstanding example of modernist Swiss architecture that has just been renovated, the other one in the onetime dairy factory of Toni-Areal, which also accommodates the Zurich University of the Arts. (Pfingstweidstrasse 96, A-7). While a museum’s storage rooms are usually off-limits to visitors, at the ToniAreal guided tours take you deep into its archives (daily at 12:00, in German). Tour numbers are limited, register on its websiteQE‑9, Ausstellungsstrasse 60, 8Museum für Gestaltung / Toni -Areal, tel. (+41) 43 446 67 38, www.museum-gestaltung.ch. Open 10:00-17:00; Wed 10:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission 12/8Sfr, daypass for both locations 15/10Sfr.

The Swiss National Museum is also fun for kids.

NATIONAL MUSEUM (LANDESMUSEUM) It will take you a while to get through the permanent exhibitions in the Swiss National Museum, but hey, they took centuries to accumulate. Complete with sights, sounds, animated projections and research stations, this is not some bone-dry collection of old things, but rather a modern museum with sections that are also suitable for kids from the age of five. ‘History of Switzerland’ is one of six permanent exhibitions and it illustrates Switzerland’s 550-year journey from a confederation of states to a federal state and includes the challenges which the democratic institutions now face. Other exhibitions include one about the city and canton of Zurich (‘Simply Zurich’, free admission), while the ‘Collection in the West Wing’ showcases more than 7,000 exhibits of Swiss craftmanship and artsitry created over the last 1,000 years. The family exhibition ‘A Magic Carpet Ride Through History’ allows you and your kids to travel back in time and explore the topics zurich.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing of the Orient, Railways and Seafaring in an Arabian-style palace, on the deck of a sailing ship and in a vintage railway carriage. Lots of hands-on fun is included. The museum also features temporary exhibitions, a study centre and a large restaurant. The ‘Landesmuseum’ smartphone app guides you through the museum in English and other languages.. QF‑10, Museumstrasse 2, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 58 466 65 11, www.landesmuseum.ch. Open 10:0017:00; Thu 10:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/8Sfr. NONAM (NORTH AMERICA NATIVE MUSEUM) The permanent exhibition of the North America Native Museum shows over 700 objects like masks, boats or totem poles from six regions in the USA and Canada. The exhibitions’ aim is to render a better understanding of the natives of North America and show the various ways the Inuit, Indian and Métis groups lived from the arctic north to the deserts in the southwest.QSeefeldstrasse 317, 8Tiefenbrunnen, tel. (+41) 43 499 24 40, www.nonam.ch. Open 13:00-17:00; Sun 10:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission 15/8/6Sfr, families 25Sfr. TRAM MUSEUM Uniforms, ticket machines, model-trams and of course lots of old trams from days gone by are on show in this one-time tram depot. It’s quite a hands-on exhibition, so good for kids, but also has a few things to say about how traffic systems shaped the city. But you have to catch the best part of this museum - Zurich’s oldest tram

MEIER TOURS - GRAY LINE ZURICH A bus tour is defintely an easy way to see some of Switzerland’s most picturesque mountains and best outdoor destinations. Meier Tours Gray Line Zurich offers guided day trips to many mountains and other attractions in their comfortable coaches. They provide, for example, daily tours to Lucerne, Mount Titlis, Jungfraujoch, Interlaken and Grindelwald as well as a so-called Great Country Tour where you can see the eastern part of Switzerland, which is also known as the home of the worldrenowned literary character, Heidi. Just check their website for available tours, consult your hotel reception or call (+41) 44 383 78 78 to make a booking.QF‑10, Bus Terminal Sihlquai, 8Sihlquai/HB, tel. (+41) 44 383 78 78, www.meiertours.ch. (from 1897) runs from the main train station through Bahnhofstrasse to the tram museum and back as tram N°21. It leaves every last weekend of the month from the stop Usteristrasse which doesn’t exist otherwise, just off Bahnhofstrasse next to Globus department store. Normal public transport tickets are valid (summer only). QForchstrasse 260, 8Burgwies, tel. (+41) 44 380 21 62, www.tram-museum.ch. Open 13:00-18:00; closed Tue, Thu, Fri. 12/6Sfr, families 24Sfr.

Daily Excursions

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The Zurich Experience City Tour

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Regular Sightseeing Tours

Exciting tours to Glacier Paradise Mt.Titlis, Jungfraujoch, Heidiland, Pilatus, Lucerne, Black Forest, Rhine Falls… and many more

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February – March 2020 39

Old-town stroll at the top of Marktgasse and now you’re on the main throughway of pedestrian Niederdorf, the other part of the old town. On the right is 5 Cabaret Voltaire, from where the Dada movement - jolifanto bambla o falli bambla - set off to confuse the bourgeoisie in 1916. A little further on to the left, set back in a little courtyard, is Schober, a richly decorated sweets and pastry shop worth at least a quick visit. Directly opposite are Schwarzenbach coffee roasters - the irresistible smell gets even better if you stick your nose inside. Strolling further along Münstergasse you pass the Bodega Española on your right, where in the 1950s author Max Frisch used to drop in for a beer and a few tapas.

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40 Zurich In Your Pocket

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On the other end of the bridge you have the Rathaus, the town hall, to your right and the Rathaus café to your left. Our rigorous ramble takes us straight ahead, across the tram lines on Limmatquai and into Marktgasse, where you’ll find one of Zurich’s prettiest flower shops. Turn right

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Ahead of you is the church tower of 3 St. Peter (see p. 36), our next destination situated on one of Zurich’s most peaceful squares (St. Peterhofstatt). Going left, either of the alleys (Weggengasse or Thermengasse) gets you to the second bridge, 4 Rathausbrücke, also known as the vegetable bridge because of the small fruit & veg market held here on Saturdays.

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Just after Schipfe 16 take the climb up to 2 Lindenhof (see p. 36), just turn right and up Fortunagasse and then left into Lindenhof with its tall trees, one of the oldest parts of Zurich. The mediaeval German kings would stop over here and the Romans also occupied the spot in their day and age. Take in the view over the parapet or play with the royals who are always here, in one of the games of outdoor chess. Leaving Lindenhof opposite from where you entered (down Pfalz-Gasse), there’s a copy of the Roman tombstone which mentions Turicum (Zurich) on your right, set in the wall.

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Zurich’s old town snuggles up to both banks of the river Limmat, so our old-town stroll does much the same and heads upstream, crossing two bridges and passing a third. We set off at the bridge named after Zurich’s first mayor, 1 Rudolf-Brun Brücke, which is easily reached from Bahnhofstrasse or by walking along the Limmat (down Bahnhofquai) from the main train station. At the bridge’s south-western corner, just by the Swiss handicrafts shop, head down the steps to the metal walkway leading upstream along the Limmat, almost touching the water (Heiri-Steg). Soon you’re on a cobbled street (Schipfe), with some miniature antiques shops and boutiques on the right and the restaurant Schipfe 16, a work project for unemployed and well worth a quick stop, on the left.

Bahn hofst

The view of Grossmünster from the wintry Lindenhof. Zurich Tourism

A few steps along you’re at Zurich’s landmark Romanesque - style abbey, the somewhat austere 6 Grossmünster with its double towers and their rather unique, Neo-Gothic spires added in the 18th century. Looking towards the river, the third bridge, Münsterbrücke, appears and the graceful Fraumünster Abbey is visible across the Limmat. Take the steps from the Grossmünster courtyard down to the 7 Wasserkirche and the Helmhaus art gallery by the river and then cross the bridge to 8 Fraumünster (see p. 34) to gaze at the famous stained-glass windows by Chagall. You’ve seen all the really important parts of Zurich’s old town now and can finish off with one of Zurich’s other major attractions - the lake - which is just five minutes’ walk further along the river.

zurich.inyourpocket.com

Zurich Nord The part of the city behind the two hills Käferberg and Zürichberg is commonly referred to as Zürich Nord. The districts 7, 11 and 12 used to be independent villages and merged with the city in 1934. Close to the airport they are now home to many international companies, the trade fair, some hotels and more and more restaurants and bars. You definitely don’t have to go to the city centre to have a good night out.

RESTAURANTS CHEYENNE The Cheyenne is the place for American food in Zurich Nord: big burgers, club sandwiches and spare ribs are its specialities. Sit at large tables and watch all the important football and ice hockey games on the screens. The signed NHL T-shirt of the famous Swiss player and Stanley Cup winner Mark Streit on the wall is Cheyenne‘s pride.QG‑1, Querstrasse 3, 8Sternen Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 44 313 90 90, www.cheyenne-oerlikon.ch. Open 11:00-24:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-24:00. Brunch on Sat & Sun 09:00 - 16:00. €€. AB

bistro too.QG‑1, Affolternstr. 52, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 43 288 94 45, www.perron9.ch. Open 11:30-14:00, 18:00-24:00; Sat 18:00-24:00; closed Mon, Sun. Bistro Gleis 9 open daily 10:00 - 24:00, Sun closed. €€. AB ROLLI’S STEAKHOUSE This is a very popular steak house: if you are a meat lover, this is the place to go - beef, pork, lamb, they have it all. But don’t forget to book a place in advance - or go early. All steaks are served on a hot stone - making you the grill chef yourself. Which also means there is no one else to blame if your steak is overdone. Steaks come with fries and three excellent homemade sauces. The menu features pasta as well - but come on, who needs pasta if there’s meat?QH‑1, Schaffhauserstrasse 352, 8Sternen Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 44 311 28 80, www.rollis-steakhouse.ch. Open 10:0023:30; closed Sun. Kitchen open 11:00 - 22:00. €€. AB TIBITS OERLIKON The bounteous vegetarian buffet is also the focal point of the tibits branch in Zurich Nord. Choose from around 40 homemade salads, hot daily specials, soups, sandwiches and sweets. Take it from us, it’s more than just tasty and many of the dishes are actually not just vegetarian, but vegan. The colourful wallpaper and the modern designer lamps make for the typical airy urban tibits atmosphere. A kids’ corner is available in the basement and, yes, all the food can be ordered as takeaway.QH‑1, Tramstrasse 2, 8Sternen Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 44 317 25 55, www.tibits.ch. Open 07:30-22:30; Sun 09:00-22:00. €. AB

NIGHTLIFE

Giesserei is steeped in industrial charm.

GIESSEREI OERLIKON The Giesserei has made itself a name as a fine dining restaurant, though the place still has a feel like the last workers just left this ancient foundry a couple of weeks ago. The menu is simple: every day there are a few different starters, main courses and desserts - an international mix according to the season and the desires of the kitchen crew. Recommended.QF‑2, Birchstrasse 108, 8Regensbergerbrücke, tel. (+41) 43 205 10 10, www.diegiesserei.ch. Open 11:3014:00, 17:30-24:00; Sat 17:30-24:00; closed Sun. €€. AB PERRON 9 The culinary concept at Perron 9 is focussed on high quality meat - like entrecôte or lamb chops from the charcoal grill and veal shoulder and pork belly from the BBQ-smoker. You’ll also find fish or vegetarian dishes on the menu. The industrial-age rooms with the cast-iron pillars make for a pleasing surrounding and there is a bar and facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

COOPER’S PUB Located just next to Oerlikon train station (and in walking distance of the Swissôtel and the Courtyard Marriott), the Cooper’s with its whiskey barrels and dark wooden floor and panels, brings an Irish pub feel to this part of town. They of course have Murphy’s Red and Guinness on tap, all the sports on TV and serve really affordable burgers. There are also fish & chips, pies and salads on the menu. Occasionally concerts. Cheers!QH‑1, Schaffhauserstrasse 359, 8Sternen Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 76 261 00 30, www.coopers-pub.ch. Open 15:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 15:00-02:00; Sun 15:0022:00. AK JAIME EL BARCO The Jaime is a bar with a South American touch in Zurich Nord, just next to the Courtyard Marriott. Hot panini for a snack, a daiquiri or a margarita from the cocktail menu or a beer will cheer you up after a hard day of walking or working. There is table football and darts - quite some entertainment in this part of the city.QOtto-Schütz-Weg 5, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 44 310 21 70, www.jaime.ch. Open 09:0014:00, 16:00-24:00; Mon 09:00-14:00, 16:00-22:00; closed Sat, Sun. E February – March 2020 41

Shopping

A stroll through the old town comes with lots of shopping opportunities. | Zurich Tourism

Zurich has a reputation as a shopping city, even if it’s not quite London or Milan. Bahnhofstrasse is especially renowned as one of the most exclusive and expensive shopping streets in the world. For Swiss and urban design, Europaallee (E-11) and the area around Langstrasse (see box overleaf ) are good places to start. As far as shopping malls are concerned, Switzerland can’t match other European nations where huge centres are the order of the day, but perhaps that’s a good thing. The Sihlcity shopping centre, an easily accessible mall that opened in 2007, is an example of innovative development, without the massive sprawl of other malls. The Glatt shopping mall just outside city limits is Switzerland’s most popular shopping centre. The malls and best shopping areas of the city are listed here together with other notable shops. Remember that all shops are closed on Sundays except those at the railway stations and some souvenir shops. For more suggestions visit www.iyp.me/zurich/shopping. The main shopping areas are: Bahnhofstrasse (F-11/14) Bahnhofstrasse leads from the main railway station to the lake and is mostly a pedestrian area with nearly no traffic, but watch out for the trams! It’s world-famous for its luxury stores: find jewellery, watches and designer boutiques as well as the big department stores Jelmoli and Globus here. In recent years, more big foreign companies like Apple have opened stores on Bahnhofstrasse displacing some traditional Zurich businesses and some say Bahnhofstrasse is losing its atmosphere. Naturally not everyone is happy about this. 42 Zurich In Your Pocket

Nevertheless, a walk down this famous street is a must for every shopping fan. Wander down the side streets as well, where some more unusual little gems are hidden. Niederdorf (G-11/13) Even if Niederdorf - the part of the old town east of the River Limmat - is better known for dining and nightlife than shopping, it’s well worth expanding your shopping tour into this quarter. Along the Limmatquai and Niederdorfstrasse streets - both pedestrian areas - you’ll find smaller shops with up-to-date street wear, fancy shoes and fashion stores. The smaller alleys are also well worth a peek. Old Town (F/G-12/13) The old town between Bahnhofstrasse and the River Limmat is another shopping area not to be missed. Try the pedestrian street Rennweg with its international clothing brands and boutiques or Storchengasse with its luxury designer stores.

OPENING HOURS Many shops on and around Bahnhofstrasse are open Mon to Fri 09:00 - 19:00 / 20:00. Smaller shops including jewellers and shops outside the centre often close at 18:30, some are closed on Monday mornings. On Saturdays most shops open from 09:00 - 17:00 (or 18:00, department stores until 20:00). On Sundays all shops are closed (except in train and petrol stations). Banking hours are Mon - Fri 08:30 - 16:30. zurich.inyourpocket.com

Shopping BOOKS & MUSIC PILE OF BOOKS Lovely, small English bookshop. Riffle through the pile and discover stuff you didn‘t even know existed.QB‑13, Zentralstrasse 16, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 43 333 29 45, www.pileofbooks.ch. Open 12:00-18:30; Sat 10:0016:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun. ZERO ZERO RARE GROOVE Ten thousands of vinyls from rock to hip hop and new beats, from the 60s to the latest records. Thousands of CDs as well, mostly second hand. Just tell the staff what you are looking for.QD‑11, Bäckerstr. 54, 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 241 85 20, www.zerozero.ch. Open 12:0018:30; Sat 11:00-17:00; closed Sun.

MODISSA Modissa does elegant business dress and evening attire for women. The choice on the four storeys of their Bahnhofstrasse branch is huge. The local company is still family-owned and runs its own exclusive fashion lines and well-known brands like M Missoni, Hugo Boss and Kenzo, to name just a few. On the more casual side, they have knitted garments mostly of exclusive materials like silk and cashmere. Their alteration studio offers quick and accurate service.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 74, 8Bahnhofstrasse / HB, tel. (+41) 44 217 74 74, www.modissa.ch. Open 09:0020:00; Sat 09:00-19:00; closed Sun.

DEPARTMENT STORES GLOBUS The Globus is a stylish department store on Bahnhofstrasse: on six levels you can find everything for your beauty, the latest fashion from brands like Esprit, Marco Polo, Strellson and Dockers, shoes, watches, jewellery, travel bags, lingerie and much more. After strolling through the stories take a break in the pleasant restaurant on the top floor.QF‑11, Schweizergasse 11, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. (+41) 58 578 11 11, www.globus.ch. Open 09:00-20:00; closed Sun. JELMOLI They call themselves the house of brands - and that’s what they are indeed: Hugo, DKNY, Karl Lagerfeld, Diesel, Tommy Hilfiger, Versace are just some of the fashion brands you can find here. But there’s more than fashion: perfumes, household goods, a huge sports and an electronics department. And not to forget the Jelmoli Food Market grocery store in the basement.QF‑12, Seidengasse 1, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 220 44 11, www.jelmoli.ch. Open 09:30-20:00; Sat 09:00-20:00; closed Sun.

FASHION BRANKOB This men’s fashion boutique on the Viadukt shopping street has an extraordinary selection of local and international brands like Tiger of Sweden, Marc Stone and Julian Zigerli. Accessories, bags and shoes are also available.QC‑8, Viaduktstrasse 41, 8Dammweg, tel. (+41) 43 205 22 26. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; closed Sun. FIZZEN Fizzen does young, loud, distinct fashion with a range of small international brands like Swedish Fjällräven backpacks and clothing and accessories by Stüssy or Native Youth. They also have select second-hand or ‘vintage’ pieces, such as wonderfully flowery dresses from the 1950s. QG‑12, Preyergasse 6, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 262 20 64, www.fizzen.ch. Open 10:00-19:00; Thu 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; closed Sun. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

Modissa sells a huge selection of elegant women’s fashion.

RRREVOLVE FAIR FASHION rrrevolve specialises in fashion for men and women that is produced sustainably with fair trade materials. You’ll find brands like Amedangels, Wunderwerk and Jungle Folk here and it also has a concept store with accessories such as backpacks, bags, jewellery, drinking bottles, lunch boxes and bed linen at Josefstrasse 45 (E-10). All of these products are also available on its large webshop.QG‑12, Niederdorfstrasse 17, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 261 02 27, www.rrrevolve.ch. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; closed Sun.

www.fizzen.ch

Store Zürich Preyergasse 6

Basel–Bern–Luzern–St.Gallen–Zürich

February – March 2020 43

Shopping DI SC OV ER MU T L I - V E N T L IM I T ED E D T I O N

E CCO FL AG SHIP S TOR E BA HNHO FSTRASSE 6 5 8001 Z URIC H

SHOPPING MALLS AIRSIDE CENTER AT ZURICH AIRPORT Zurich airport’s passenger area is a shopping centre too! And quite a large one, in fact: more than 60 shops are located in the Airside Center which is accessible only to passengers. Here you can find literally anything you might be looking for. Be it Swiss watches, fashion or souvenirs, it’s all there, Swiss as well as international brands of course. In the Zürich Duty Free Stores you can buy a varied range of perfumes and cosmetics, tobacco products, spirits, wines and chocolate creations from Lindt, Cailler or Toblerone. The many restaurants and bars serving Swiss and international specialties make the Airside Center complete.QZurich Airport, www.flughafen-zuerich.ch/shopping. Open 06:0022:00. Accessible only to passengers. GLATT This is Switzerland’s most popular shopping mall. There are typical Swiss shops as well as international brands, watches and jewellery shops and department stores – around 100 shops spread out across 43,000m², all under one roof. It’s located just outside city limits, but it’s easy to get there. Take the S3, S9 or S12 train to Stettbach and from there take tram 12 to the Glatt stop and you’ll be in this shopping paradise in just 20 minutes.QNeue Winterthurerstrasse 99, Wallisellen, 8Glatt, tel. (+41) 44 839 42 42, www.glatt.ch. Open 09:00-20:00; closed Sun. 44 Zurich In Your Pocket

SIHLCITY A true shopper‘s paradise, opened in 2007 on the grounds of an industrial-age paper mill. Modern architecture carefully blends with the factory buildings which house more than 80 shops from fashion to electronics, restaurants, a hotel, a gym and a multiplex cinema. Easily accessible from the city centre by tram N°13 & 17 in direction Albisgütli or N°5 in direction Laubegg - or take the S4 train, exit at Saalsporthalle. QC‑16, Kalanderplatz 1, 8Sihlcity Nord, tel. (+41) 44 204 99 99, www.sihlcity.ch. Open 09:0020:00; closed Sun. Coop grocery store open until 21:00.

OUTDOOR CLOTHING & SPORTS ARC’TERYX ZÜRICH Named after the Archaeopteryx - the so-called ‘old wing’ or missing link between feathered dinosaurs and modern birds - the Canadian brand Arc’teryx is synonymous with top-notch outdoor clothing and gear. Be it shell jackets, insulated jackets, base or midlayer clothing, footwear or backpacks and climbing gear, you’ll find it all in this very cool shop at the Im Viadukt shopping street.QC‑8, Viaduktstrasse 33, 8Dammweg, tel. (+41) 44 322 33 27, www.arcteryx.com. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; closed Sun. zurich.inyourpocket.com

Shopping BURTON STORE ZÜRICH This is Zurich’s flagship store for the American snowboard and clothing manufacturer Burton. Founded in 1977 by snowboarding pioneer Jake Burton Carpenter, it has become one of the best known brands for winter sporting goods. In addition to snowboard apparel and accessories, Burton also offers jackets and sweaters, bags and luggage, camping equipment and much more, so you don’t have to be a hardcore mountain junky to find something here.QG‑12, Marktgasse 3/5, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 578 09 46, www.burton.com. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; closed Sun.

Marktgasse 3-5 8001 Zürich Switzerland

@BurtonZurich @burtonzurich www.burton.com

PERFUMES & BEAUTY OSSWALD Osswald is the specialist for perfumes and beauty products for facial care and spa treatments. This family-run business BUR18_StoreBriefNameHeader_60x45mm.indd 1 07.05.19 offers excellent consulting services and beauty aids. Facial care products include Swiss brands like La Prairie, Cell Cosmet and Valmont, and the fragrances available are nearly endless including many niche brands from around the globe like Profumum Roma and Roja. In their facial spa, they also offer medical and cosmetic facial treatments, but you’ll also find make-up, hair products, home fragrances and even accessories for your bathroom here.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 17, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 211 20 30, www.osswald.ch. Open 09:00-18:30; Sat 10:00Fair Fashion Store, Niederdorfstr. 17, 8001 Zürich 17:00; closed Sun. Facial spa on Sat open 09:00 - 16:00. Eco Concept Store, Josefstr. 45, 8005 Zürich

Not just for mountain junkies: the Burton Store.

The World’s Most Luxurious Fragrances and Skincare in Zürich

12:07

ESTABLISHED

1921

SHOES & ACCESSORIES ECCO FLAGSHIP STORE Danish shoe manufacturer Ecco stands for comfortable shoes made in their own factories with leather, produced in their very own tanneries, or with breathable, high-tech materials. All are equipped with ingenious insoles. Here you’ll find anything from elegant shoes and sandals for both men and women to trainers, golf shoes and children’s footwear. And they don’t just cater to your feet. Fine leather bags and accessories are also on offer.QG‑12, Limmatquai 94, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 251 72 00, www. ecco.com. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; Sun closed. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

BAHNHOFSTRASSE 17 PARADEPLATZ 8001 ZÜRICH TEL. 044 211 20 30 www.osswald.ch /osswaldzh /osswald_zh

February – March 2020 45

Shopping FABRIC FRONTLINE Exquisite foulards, scarfs, ties and coats all made of coloured, patterned silk, is what the Swiss family business Fabric Frontline specialises in. You can find it all in their store in the covered courtyard of the Credit Suisse building at Paradeplatz.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 25, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 222 20 00, www.fabricfrontline.ch. Open 10:00-18:30; Sat 10:00-17:00; closed Sun.

SWISS FOOD

The flagship store of Freitag is made of old freight containers.

Zurich Tourism

LEDER LOCHER No doubt, this is the shop in Zurich for leather bags (travel and business), suitcases and accessories like belts - all for men and women. There are dozens of brands available. And first-class advice is included.QG‑13, Münsterhof 18/19, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 211 18 64, www.lederlocher.ch. Open 09:30-18:30; Sat 09:3018:00; closed Sun.

SWISS FABRICS BOUTIQUE CHRISTIAN FISCHBACHER For nearly 200 years this family-owned Swiss company has produced fine fabrics for luxurious interiors. Drop by its Zurich boutique to find everything from finest bed linen, duvets, pillows and cushions to carpets, accessories and bath textiles. All of the standard sizes are available here, but the staff can also take custom orders. They’ll also be happy to help you find the perfect interior fabrics to match your personality and your home.QF‑13, Kappelergasse 11, 8Börsenstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 211 57 47, www.fischbacher.com. Open 09:00-18:30; Sat 09:0016:00; closed Sun.

Uraniastrasse 1 | 8001 Zürich | 044 222 19 55 Bahnhofstrasse 2 | 8001 Zürich | 044 221 08 37 www.heimatwerk.ch

46 Zurich In Your Pocket

GLOBUS DELICATESSA In the basement of the Globus department store you’ll find almost any kind of food imaginable, be it organic Swiss cheese, meat specialities from across the country or perfectly ripe exotic fruit from around the world. Although all of the produce isn’t necessarily Swiss, we’re certain you’ll find every Swiss delicacy you might be looking for including chcolate and the like from small local producers. It’s not a cheap place to shop, but the diversity is impressive. QF‑11, Schweizergasse 11, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. (+41) 58 578 11 11, www.globus.ch. Open 09:00-20:00; closed Sun. TRITT-KÄSE Dozens of different cheeses from all corners of Switzerland. Don’t be shy, ask for a taster! The sales staff is usually happy to cut some for you or to recommend their favourites. QD‑8, Limmatstrasse 231 (Im Viadukt), 8Dammweg, tel. (+41) 43 366 87 88, www.tritt.ch. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 08:00-20:00; closed Sun.

SWISS DESIGN ERFOLG This Swiss clothes label has been producing shirts and knitted garments since 1993. Expect colourful, mostly non-synthetic clothing, some with reduced, stylish designs, all actually made in Switzerland. Erfolg means success, and that’s what the label has become in recent years. They have another shop at Löwenstrasse 2.QC‑8, Viaduktstrasse 45, 8Dammweg, tel. (+41) 43 810 85 10, www.erfolg-label.ch. Open 11:00-18:30; Sat 10:0017:00; closed Sun, Mon. FREITAG The Freitag brothers produce all kinds of bags made out of old truck tarpaulins and used seat belts from cars. They‘ve been at it since 1993 and with great success. The flagship store is made of 17 old freight containers stacked up to make a tower, so you can choose from hundreds of bags on four floors. From the top of the tower you can spot the trucks on the neighbouring ‘highway’bridge across Zurich – and be inspired just as the Freitag brothers were when they had the same view from the window of their living room in the early 90s.QB‑8, Geroldstrasse 17, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 43 366 95 20, www.freitag.ch. Open 10:30-19:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; closed Sun. zurich.inyourpocket.com

Shopping TEDDY’S SOUVENIR-SHOP At Teddy’s they have a wide range of souvenirs and gifts. Whether it’s watches, cowbells, hats, music boxes, soft toys, pocket knives or clothes you’re after: you’ll find it all at their shop on Limmatquai, just next to the church Grossmünster. And it’s not just souvenirs of Zurich, like beer glasses with the city’s coat of arms, but from all over Switzerland. For example the sännechutte, a traditional shirt worn by alpine herdsmen since days of yore. And yes, this souvenir shop is open even on Sundays.QG‑13, Limmatquai 34, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 261 22 89, www.teddyssouvenirshop.ch. Open 08:30-20:00; Sun 10:00-17:00; Sat 08:30-19:00. Nov - March Sun 11:00 - 17:00.

SOUVENIRS DOLMETSCH They offer classic Swiss souvenirs and gifts such as the Swiss army knives from Victorinox, many watch brands as well as a large choice of Swiss textiles like T-Shirts and outdoor fashion. Free engraving service on Victorinox knives for customers directly in the shop. Sister shop Swiss Shop 1291 at ShopVille underground at the main railway station.QG‑11, Limmatquai 126, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 251 55 44, www.dolmetsch.ch. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-20:00.

Kappelergasse 11 8001 Zürich +41 44 211 57 47 WWW.FISCHBACHER.COM

course!), toys, bags, watches army knives and much more. QF‑11, Bahnhofplatz, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 43 497 23 80, www.edelweiss-shops.ch. Open 08:00-21:30. MESSER-SCHARF Pocket knives are part of Swiss cultural heritage, and messer-scharf takes great pride in this heritage. You’ll find an extensive range of knives and other products by Victorinox, such as kitchen implements, watches or rucksacks. messerscharf also stock high-end kitchen knives by Chroma. QG‑13, Oberdorfstrasse 25, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 01 20, www.messer-scharf.ch. Open 09:30-19:00; Sat 09:30-18:00; closed Sun.

Souvenirs, souvenirs and more souvenirs at Dolmetsch.

MENG CUTLERY Meng Cutlery just off Bahnhofstrasse offers classic Swiss souvenirs such as army knives by the famous brand Victorinox. Also in stock: other knives, scissors, watches and more ideas for gifts to take home. Sister shop at Poststrasse 4 (E-4).QF‑12, Rennweg 31, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 18 48, www.mengcutlery.ch. Open 09:00-18:30; Sat 09:00-18:00; closed Sun. EDELWEISS SHOP At the Edelweiss shop, they have a huge choice of souvenirs and gifts including clothing (with lots of Swiss crosses of facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

SCHWEIZER HEIMATWERK Swiss handcrafted souvenirs of high quality: fashion accessories, toys, bells, books and fondue sets all with lots of Swiss crosses, red and white colours, cows and edelweiss. Sister shop at Bahnhofstrasse 2.QG‑12, Uraniastrasse 1, 8RudolfBrun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 222 19 55, www.heimatwerk.ch. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-18:00; closed Sun. ZÜRICHFOTO.CH Photographer Rolf Müllestein sells souvenirs of Zurich beyond army knives and cow bells: authentic pictures of the city of Zurich, the old town, the lake.QG‑13, Kirchgasse 32, 8Kunsthaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 21 45, www.zuerichfoto.ch. Open 11:00-18:00; Sat 11:0016:00; closed Sun, Mon. February – March 2020 47

Watches & Jewellery Switzerland is the country of watches - yet another cliché? Actually, it couldn’t be more true. More than 95% of all watches with a value of over 1000Sfr are made in Switzerland! The Swiss watch industry started off in Geneva around 1600, founded by Huguenots who had fled France. Zurich however is a prime shopping spot for watches today. Whether on busy Bahnhofstrasse or in a quieter corner, you will find a huge selection of brands and models here. The next couple of pages will guide you! BEYER WATCHES & JEWELLERY For more than 250 years Beyer has been selling and repairing watches. The family business is now managed by the eighth generation. Beyer specializes in selling some of the world’s most sought-after brands, such as Patek Philippe, Rolex, Breguet, Hublot and IWC as well as its own Beyer brand. The boutique will be closed for renovations from March to July this year, but it will be open for business in the Beyer pavilion next to the shop.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 31, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 43 344 63 63, www.beyer-ch.com. Open 09:30-18:30; Sat 09:3016:00; closed Sun. CHRIST WATCHES & JEWELRY With more than 70 shops, CHRIST is the biggest jeweler in Switzerland. Find top watch brands like Rado, Tag Heuer, Certina, Frederique Constant and their very own CHRIST Swiss Made as well as many fashion jewels. There are sister shops at the department store Jelmoli (Seidengasse 1, F-12), ShopVille at the main train station and the shopping centre Sihlcity (Kalanderplatz 1, C-16).QF‑11, Bahnhofstrasse 93, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 212 14 47, www.christ-swiss.ch. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-19:00; closed Sun.

LES AMBASSADEURS Find a large selection of Swiss watches and jewellery at Les Ambassadeurs store. They have long established partnerships with leading brands such as Audemars Piguet, Blancpain, Breguet, Breitling, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Jaquet Droz, Longines, Vacheron Constantin, Omega as well as Pasquale Bruni and Pomellato. Their sales staff provide expert advice in many languages.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 64, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 227 17 17, www.lesambassadeurs.ch. Open 09:30-19:00; Sat 09:30-17:00; closed Sun. 48 Zurich In Your Pocket

TAX FREE SHOPPING As a foreign resident you are entitled to a refund when making purchases for more than 300Sfr (including VAT), provided the goods leave the country within 30 days. You will get back the VAT, which in Switzerland is only 7.7% - minus a handling fee. It’s as easy as this: watch out for the Global Blue - Tax Free sign. When paying, ask for a tax refund form. When leaving Switzerland, present your purchases, receipts and passport to Swiss customs officials. They will stamp your tax refund form. To claim an immediate refund, present your stamped tax refund form at a Global Blue refund point (e.g. at Zurich Airport or all around Europe). For more infos see www.global-blue.com. FATA MORGANA Fata Morgana specialises in fairly produced and traded jewellery as well as all kinds of accessories and even lamps and interior design items. It stocks for example imaginative collections by Auryn Jewels and silver jewellery for men by D’Oz Hommes, not to mention handmade Indonesian pieces by E’Kollektion. All of it is presented in a unique way in this lovely shop on Limmatquai.QG‑13, Limmatquai 36, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 262 18 06, www.fata-morgana.ch. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:0018:00; closed Sun. GÜBELIN Since 1854 Gübelin have been selling jewellery, watches and precious stones. You will find their own jewellery lines as well as many renowned watch brands such as IWC Schaffhausen, Zenith, Parmigiani Fleurier, Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 36, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 387 52 20, www.guebelin.ch. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00; closed Sun. HARRY WINSTON ZURICH Since 2018 Harry Winston has had its very own boutique on one of Zurich’s most prestigious squares, Paradeplatz. Nearly 150m² of space features areas for a highend jewellery collection, a bridal collection and watches. Diamonds, of course, are its speciality and they can be found on rings, bracelets, earrings and necklaces. After all, Harry Winston, who opened his first store in New York in 1932, was better known as the King of Diamonds. Private selling rooms are also available.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 28, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 43 456 37 40, www.harrywinston.com. Open 09:30-18:30; Sat 09:3017:00; closed Sun. HEINICKE This small but charming watch shop right next to Grossmünster Church has been in business since 1937. They sell the Swiss brands Longines, Tissot, Mido, Rado, Claude zurich.inyourpocket.com

Watches & Jewellery Bernard and Claude Meylan. Can’t decide? Expert advice is included here.QG‑13, Limmatquai 32, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 66 70, www.heinicke-uhren.ch. Open 09:30-18:30; Sat 09:30-16:30; closed Sun. KURZ JEWELLERY AND WATCHES Kurz have a large selection of jewellery e.g. by Chopard and from their own workshops, as well as a broad range of mainly Swiss watch brands like Omega, Zenith, Maurice Lacroix, Tissot, Rado and many more.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 80, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. (+41) 44 219 77 77, www.kurzschmuckuhren.ch. Open 09:1518:30; Sat 09:15-17:00; closed Sun. PARTIME This Swiss designer watch simultaneously shows the time of day and how much of the day is left. The blue area within a circle represents the amount of time still remaining in the day, while a white area gradually eats into the blue. Find it at Teddy’s Souvenir Shop and the retailers indicated on page ?? -, order it in the webshop, or ask for an express delivery to your hotel.QG‑13, Teddy’s Souvenir Shop, Limmatquai 34, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 43 422 00 11, www.partimewatch.com. Open 08:30-20:00; Sat 08:3019:00; Sun 10:00-17:00.

OFFICIAL VICTORINOX STORE Flagship Store Zurich Rennweg 58, 8001 Zurich +41 44 229 60 70 info.zurich.ch@victorinox.com More than just watches and knives - the Victorinox flagship store. PD

VICTORINOX FLAGSHIP STORE This is Zurich’s flagship store by Victorinox, the world renowned Swiss family business. They’re probably best known for their Swiss Army knives, but they also produce many different collections of high-quality Swiss watches for both women and men. In addition, they also manufacture household and professional knives with an ergonomic design and exceptional sharpness, multifunctional travel gear items like luggage and backpacks, and even fragrances, inspired by Swiss nature. The entire world of Victorinox products is available at this store. There’s also an engraving service for the pocket knives and you can personalise them even further by using the interactive pocket knife configurator to create a unique souvenir or gift!QF‑12, Rennweg 58, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 229 60 70, www.victorinox.com. Open 10:00-20:00; Sat 09:30-18:30; closed Sun. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

AUTHORIZED RETAILERS H. Meng AG Meng Messerschmiede Rennweg 31, 8001 Zurich Meng Cutlery Poststrasse 4, 8001 Zurich Zwilling J. A. Henckels Schweiz AG Bahnhofstrasse 58, 8001 Zurich FROM THE MAKERS OF THE ORIGINAL SWISS ARMY KNIFE™ ESTABLISHED 1884 February – March 2020 49

A. Lange & Söhne Audemars Piguet Balmain Baume & Mercier Bell & Ross Beyer Blancpain Breguet Breitling Bulgari Cartier Certina Charriol Chopard Corum De Grisogono Ebel Eterna Franck Muller Girard Perregaux Hublot IWC Schaffhausen Jaquet Droz Jaeger-LeCoultre Jowissa Longines Louis Erard Maurice Lacroix Mido Mondaine Movado Nomos Glashütte Omega Oris Parmigiani Fleurier Patek Philippe Piaget Quinting Rado Raymond Weil Rolex Swatch Swiss Military Hanowa TAG Heuer Tiffany Tissot Ulysse Nardin Urwerk Victorinox Swiss Army Vulcain Wenger Zenith Zurich Partime

Les Ambassadeurs, Bahnhofstrasse 64

Kurz, Bahnhofstrasse 80

IWC Schaffhausen, Bahnhofstrasse 61

Heinicke, Limmatquai 32

Christ at Jelmoli, Seidengasse 1

Gellner & Friends, Strehlgasse 27

Christ, Bahnhofstrasse 78

Gübelin, Bahnhofstrasse 36

Chopard Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 40

Galli, Theaterstrasse 16

Central Jewellery, Limmatquai 140

Feist Daniel, Seefeldstrassse 45

Cartier Joailliers, Bahnhofstrasse 47

Dolmetsch, Limmatquai 126

Bulgari, Bahnhofstrasse 25

Christian Uhren Schmuck, Limmatplatz 1

Breguet, Bahnhofstrasse 31

Bucherer, Bahnhofstrasse 50

Airbijoux, Bahnhofstrasse 1

Beyer, Bahnhofstrasse 31

Affolter Max, Strehlgasse 25

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Omega Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 48

Oscar Stahel, Gerbergasse 5

Patek Philippe Boutique, Bahnhofstr. 31

Rolex Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 17

Swatch Store, Bahnhofstrasse 52

Tiffany & Co, Bahnhofstrasse 14

Tissot Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 94

Victorinox Flagship Store, Rennweg 58

Zeit Meister, Badenerstrasse 16-18

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Lake Zurich February – March 2020 51

Alpine adventures Many snow-capped mountains are easily accessible on a day trip from Zurich, so take a train or organised bus tour to discover incredible winter wonderlands boasting views, ski slopes, sledge runs and winter hiking paths.

FLUMSERBERG

Flumserberg has 65km of slopes and 17 lifts. After a 60-minute train ride to Unterterzen, a cable car takes you up to the resort. The slopes range from beginner to expert levels. There are snow parks, cross-country ski trails and a 3km-long sledge run. Winter hiking trails are also available if you prefer a walk in the snow to action on the slopes.QFlumserberg, tel. (+41) 81 720 15 15, www.flumserberg.ch. Until April 5, 2020. 2

CHÄSERRUGG

Chäserrugg is a pleasant destination for an easy day trip into the snow. Take a train from Zurich to Unterwasser and then reach Mount Chäserrugg (2,262m) by funicular and cable car. At the summit you’ll find spectacular views and a restaurant designed by the world-renowned Swiss architects Herzog & de Meuron, as well as many ski slopes and winter hiking trails.QChäserrugg, Unterwasser, tel. (+41) 71 998 68 10, www.chaeserrugg.ch. Zurich

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Altdorf Engelberg

Brienz

3 Titlis - Engelberg

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Mountains & Ski resorts

Daytrip to Mount Chaeserrugg Breathtaking views and walk at 7’420 ft a.s.l. Unique architecture by Herzog & de Meuron Exquisite cuisine in the restaurant on the summit 1.5h bus ride from Zurich

Book your ticket on www.chaeserrugg.ch

TITLIS - ENGELBERG

Engelberg is the biggest resort in central Switzerland. Its top attraction is Mount Titlis: a rotating gondola takes you up to more than 3,000 metres. There you get a spectacular view, a glacier and some steep slopes. There are 82 kilometres of slopes suitable for beginners as well as experienced skiers, snow trekking paths and cross country ski runs. The train ride from Zurich takes just under two hours.Q Engelberg, tel. (+41) 41 639 50 50, www.titlis.ch. 4

BRAUNWALD

The small mountain village of Braunwald has no car traffic and is only accessible by a cable railway from Linthal (Braunwaldbahn). Public transport gets you there in just under two hours. Ski lifts that are suitable for beginners, intermediate skiers and families are available. On a sunny day it’s a lovely place for a walk and a cup of hot tea in the fresh air.QBraunwald, tel. (+41) 55 653 65 65, www.braunwald.ch. Season 2019/20. Until March 15. BEST OF SWITZERLAND TOURS Day trips organised by tour operators are an easy way to explore Switzerland and its gorgeous mountains. Forget the hassle with timetables, itineraries and the like. Best of Switzerland tours offers daily trips from Zurich to Pilatus, Rigi, Titlis and Jungfraujoch. You can take the rotating gondola up to Titlis, where an encounter with ice, snow and facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

a glacier await you. Just check their website for available tours and book up to a day before online or by phone. The tour buses leave from the Zurich Bus terminal Sihlquai, just next to the Hauptbahnhof (main train station, F-10). Qwww.switzerland-tours.ch, tel. (+41) 44 710 50 50. February – March 2020 53

Zurich for kids Are we there yet?! Children have their own idea of how to have a good time and stylish bars or Gothic cathedrals may not exactly do the trick. But no fear, there’s plenty to do with children in Zurich. Find more suggestions on www.iyp.me/zurich/zurich-for-kids.

LEISURE, PARKS & SPORTS Little guests need room to jump and run. Not to mention swim, skate or canoe. The most central playground is next to Lindenhof (p.36, E-3) and there is a large one next to the Chinese garden. The GZ community centres of the city also have good playgrounds (www.gz-zh.ch).

So that’s what cocoa tastes like! Find out at Chocolat Frey.

SWIMMING BATHS OERLIKON (HALLENBAD) Zurich’s biggest indoor swimming baths and the best with children. There’s a 25-metre pool for non-swimmers, a children’s pool with water toys, a 50-metre pool for good swimmers and a diving pool. Get there on tram N°11 (plus a good 5 minutes walk) or buses N°62 or N°94. QJ‑1, Wallisellenstrasse 100, 8Messe/Hallenstadion, tel. (+41) 44 413 55 00, www.sportamt.ch/schwimmen. Open 06:00-22:00; Mon, Tue, Thu 06:00-20:00. Admission: 8/6/4Sfr, under 6 years free.

CHOCOLAT FREY VISITOR CENTRE You and your kids can get to know how chocolate is made in a playful way at the visitor centre of Chocolat Frey, Switzerland’s biggest chocolate producer. On the so-called ‘expert trail’ some of Frey’s chocolate makers will explain and demonstrate the production of those sweet delicacies. And yes, you and your kids will be able to taste some, be they pieces straight from the production line or from the two chocolate fountains. You can watch Röbi the Robot pack chocolates or dress up as a cocoa bean and make funny photos to surprise your friends with. You can also identify different smells in the Aroma Lab or play a giant computer game. Or Book a place at a chocolate moulding session online where you can create your own individual chocolate. Afterwards you

CAFÉS KAFI FÜR DICH This café next to the park Bäckeranlage has a children’s corner where your young ones can paint the walls with chalk or play with one of the many toys while you sit and have a coffee or a drink. On weekends the place is so popular with parents you have to weave your way through the many push chairs standing around. Well worth a visit even without your kids.QC‑11, Stauffacherstrasse 141, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 43 317 91 60, www.fuerdich.ch. Open 08:00-24:00; Sat 09:00-24:00; Sun 09:00-20:00. 54 Zurich In Your Pocket

can fortify yourself up in the café and, of course, buy all of the Frey delicacies at the shop. This pleasant day trip, which isn’t just for chocolate connoisseurs, is reachable in only 39 minutes from Zurich (take the train to Aarau, then bus Nº1 to the Industrie stop in Buchs). Admission is free with the Swiss Travel Pass.QBresteneggstrasse 4, Buchs, tel. (+41) 62 836 24 25, www.chocolatfrey.ch/en/visitor-centre. Open 10:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission 12/10/6Sfr, family ticket includes up to 5 kids (6-16 years) 30/18Sfr. Free admission to the café with a playground and shop. Free admission with the Swiss Travel Pass.

Fascinating experiments at Technorama.

TECHNORAMA - SWISS SCIENCE CENTRE At Swiss Science Center Technorama the usual museum slogan ‘do not touch’ has been replaced by ‘try it!’ In fact, your participation is expected. And it’s not just about pressing buttons. What you decide actually alters the results of the displayed experiments. These experiments are designed to help visitors understand natural phenomena and technology. More than 500 exhibits spread across 6,500m2 of space on three floors are waiting to be explored. Technorama is divided into 12 sections: Mindscapes, Light and Sight, Current and Magnets, Mathemagic and Mechanicum, to name a few. Most of the exhibits are also explained in English, French and Italian as well as German. It’s not only great for children, but for mum and dad as well. To get there, take a train to Winterthur from Zurich’s main train station (eight per hour) and then take bus N°5 to Technorama.QTechnoramastrasse 1, Winterthur, tel. (+41) 52 244 08 44, www.technorama.ch. Open 10:0017:00. Admission 28/17Sfr. zurich.inyourpocket.com

Hotels SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

H Conference facilities

R Internet in room U Facilities for the disabled F Fitness centre

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J City centre location

Zurich is a business destination first and foremost and hotel rates reflect that. From Friday night to Monday morning, prices often drop sharply. Why not take advantage of this and spend a weekend in one of the many four- and five-star hotels in the city? Despite this, accommodation in Zurich remains rather pricey and real budget accommodation is rare. But nevertheless there is something for any taste and almost any budget.

traces of historical paintings which were brought to new life when the hotel was built in over ten years of work. Some rooms have modern elements which contrast with the ancient walls and beams. Others are furnished with antiques and look more classical. Naturally they all have the latest entertainment technology and bathrooms to dream of.QF‑12, Rennweg 7, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 224 25 26, www.widderhotel.ch. 49 rooms. APULJ R6WKHF hhhhh

UPMARKET CENTRAL PLAZA Central is in the name, and central it is indeed. The old town starts right in front of the main entrance. With a tram junction next to the hotel, it’s not the quietest spot - but the triple glazing shuts out the city‘s noise. Standard rooms are rather small, but live up to the standard you can expect of a hotel of this class. There is free Wi-fi and wired internet. Ask for a room with a view onto the river or one of the tworoom junior suites. One of the suites even has a glass ceiling so you can watch the stars while you fall asleep. No airconditioning but an air cooling system. Fitness room, piano bar and King’s Cave restaurant - known for its excellent sirloin - are in the building too.QG‑11, Central 1, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 256 56 56, www.central.ch. 103 rooms. AXUELJR6WKHF hhhh

In Switzerland hotels are officially categorized with stars from one to five. The categorization is done by hotelleriesuisse, the national hoteliers association. A hotel can also receive the supplement ‘superior’, indicating a higher level of service and quality. We list the hotels according to their official classification in the following categories: Cream of the Crop*****, Upmarket****, Midrange*** and Budget (0 to **). Outside this classification we list pensions - usually small and with less services than a hotel - and some of the hostels in town. Find more hotels on www.iyp.me/zurich/hotels.

CREAM OF THE CROP STORCHEN ZÜRICH The Storchen Zürich is a newly renovated five-star hotel of exceptional style. It is situated right on the banks of the River Limmat in the old town and even has its own private landing stage for river boats. The rooms vary in size, are decorated either classically or contemporary and offer either a view over the river or over the old town towards St. Peter’s church. On the first floor the Restaurant Rôtisserie serves fish and meat specialities on a lovely terrace above the river.QG‑13, Weinplatz 2, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 227 27 27, www.storchen.ch. 66 rooms. APUB JR6WKH hhhhh WIDDER The fabulous Widder is situated in nine former residential houses in the mediaeval old town, with the prestigious Bahnhofstrasse just around the corner. Each of the 49 rooms is different in layout and atmosphere. Many have facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

The lights of Hotel Storchen reflected in the River Limmat.

swiss-image.ch/Christof Sonderegger

FIFA HOTEL ASCOT The Ascot opened in 1955 and was completely refurbished in 2010. The dark wooden furnishing is now the hallmark of the rooms which feature large beds, an armchair, an espresso machine, a flat-screen TV and free internet access. South facing rooms have balconies. The updated bathrooms are styled in vivid colours and have a bathtub. Both the lake and Bahnhofstrasse are just a few minutes away. There are direct trains to the airport from the train station Zurich Enge just across the square. Start your evening at the very British Turf Bar on the ground floor or enjoy steaks and seafood in the restaurant Ascot.QE‑15, Tessinerplatz 9, 8Bahnhof Enge, tel. (+41) 44 208 14 14, www.ascot.ch. 74 rooms. APLJ6WKH hhhh February – March 2020 55

Hotels FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON SIHLCITY This four-star hotel is housed in what was once the warehouse of a 19th-century paper mill. The listed columns and windows are subtly integrated into the architecture and give the hotel a distinct urban-industrial touch. There are different room types, all offering large showers, huge beds and flat screen TVs. Mineral water, internet and coffee are included. The Four Points Hotel is located in the shopping mall Sihlcity which includes a multiplex cinema, restaurants and excellent connections to the city centre and the lake by tram and train (8 min). The fitness centre Fitnesspark Sihlcity is located in the same building.QC‑16, Kalandergasse 1, 8Sihlcity Nord, tel. (+41) 44 554 00 00, www.fourpointssihlcity.com. 132 rooms. APULR6WKH hhhh GLOCKENHOF This four-star superior hotel in the middle of Zurich‘s shopping district is located only a few steps from Bahnhofstrasse. The rooms evoke a very modern Swissness: the walls of the bathrooms are clad with quartzite from the Grison mountains and the parquet is made of Swiss oak. In some rooms the shower is just next to the bed, divided only by a see-through glass wall. A coffee machine and mineral water - Swiss of course - are included. In the superior category you get more space and a sofa lounge. Restaurant with nice garden on the ground floor. QF‑12, Sihlstrasse 31, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 225 91 91, www.glockenhof.ch. 91 rooms. APULJR6 WKH hhhh

The lakeside at Bürkliplatz in winter attire.

Zurich Tourism

HELMHAUS Centrally located in a historic building near the Wasserkirche the rooms of this small and personal hotel have a classy starkness with dark wood floors, modern, sleek bathrooms and 19th century touches. The Boutique Relax category offers some extra space while the rooms on the fifth floor have an individual touch. Soundproof windows that really deserve the name make sure you enjoy a good night’s sleep.QG‑13, Schifflände 30, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 266 95 95, www.helmhaus.ch. 24 rooms. APJW hhhh

Eating with all senses THE VBZ GOURMET LINE On the VBZ gourmet line, we‘ll be serving you the most interesting views of Zurich in the rolling restaurant, a vintage tram. Please have a seat: www.vbz.ch/yummytram

genusslinie englisch 124 x 90mm.indd 56 Zurich In Your Pocket

24.01.2018 16:56:30 zurich.inyourpocket.com

Hotels KRONE UNTERSTRASS Just three stops by tram from the main train station and the city centre, this four-star hotel is conveniently located for leisure and business stays. The Langstrasse district with popular bars and restaurants is in walking distance. The rooms are bright and modern and rates are moderate. There is a Mediterranean restaurant and a separate bar. QF‑8, Schaffhauserstrasse 1, 8Kronenstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 360 56 56, www.hotel-krone.ch. 76 rooms. APUL6WKH hhhh WELLENBERG Most of the rooms at the Wellenberg sport beds and curtains in bright, warm colours, dark wooden floors and arty pictures on the walls. Located in the middle of Niederdorf, Zurich’s historic heart, it’s only a few minutes’ walk to the main station and to the shopping street of world renown, Bahnhofstrasse. Dozens of restaurants eager for your custom are close by, but closer still are the in-house Brasserie Louis and the Tina bar. Soundproof windows should make sure you get only the advantages of the location. Lovely terrace for breakfast or an afternoon break. QG‑12, Niederdorfstrasse 10, 8Rudolf-Brun Brücke, tel. (+41) 43 888 44 44, www.hotel-wellenberg.ch. 45 rooms. AUJ6WKH hhhh

BUDGET HOTELS MARTA The Marta is a functional hotel, very centrally located in the Niederdorf, just a few minutes away from the main train station. The blue coloured rooms have a modern feel. There is a twin bed, a bathroom with shower and a flatscreen TV in every room, as well as Wi-fi throughout the hotel. The hotel is run by a non-profit cooperation, giving socially challenged women an opportunity to work. There is no air-conditioning but ventilators. QG‑11, Zähringerstrasse 36, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 269 95 95, www.hotelmarta.ch. 39 rooms. AU J6WH hh

LADY’S FIRST This small hotel is situated in an elegant 19th-century villa in the Seefeld district, not far from the shores of Lake Zurich. The rooms have retained much of their original charm, the high ceilings and wooden panelling blended with modern furnishings to make for a very light, special atmosphere. On the top floor there is a sauna and wellness area which is for women only - as is the roof-top terrace. The hotel is run by a non-profit cooperation, giving socially challenged women an opportunity to work.QH‑16, Mainaustrasse 24, 8Feldeggstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 380 80 10, www.ladysfirst.ch. 28 rooms. AUL6WDi hhh SCHEUBLE The Scheuble is situated in a historic building in the centre of the Niederdorf district and has been completely refurbished in winter 2017/18. It is now a three star superior hotel with character, the rooms feature dark parquet flooring and can be had as twin with two beds or with one double bed.QG‑12, Mühlegasse 17, 8RudolfBrun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 268 48 00, www.scheuble.ch. 64 rooms. ALJR6WK hhh

HOSTELS The spires of Fraumünster and St. Peter’s.

zürichfoto.ch

MID-RANGE CORONADO The Coronado is a functional three-star hotel close to University Irchel. The rooms all feature dark parquet flooring, a desk and a mini-bar. Doubles either come with two beds or one kingsize one. The tram stops just opposite the hotel and takes you to the centre in around 12 minutes - or straight to the airport in 20. For a relaxing walk Irchel Park lies just opposite the street.QG‑5, Schaffhauserstrasse 137, 8Milchbuck, tel. (+41) 44 360 26 26, www.hotel-coronado.ch. 40 rooms. AP LR6WH hhh facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

YOUTH HOSTEL This modern youth hostel has four- and six-bed rooms with bunk beds and shared showers and toilets. All rooms have a small vestibule where lockers and the washbasin are located - so latecomers don‘t wake up the rest. There are also private doubles and four-bed rooms with en-suite bathrooms. 24 hours reception and cheap meals (20Sfr incl. soft drink). It‘s just a five-minute walk to the lake and 15 min by tram to the centre. On the weekends a night bus (N°12) stops right in front of the hostel all night long. Great place to meet other travellers.QMutschellenstrasse 114, 8Morgental, tel. (+41) 43 399 78 00, www.youthhostel.ch/zurich. 76 rooms. AUWKH

/zurichinyourpocket February – March 2020 57

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ZURICH CENTRE

Culmannst r.

Index 4 Tiere 31 Wirtschaft im Franz 26 Airside Center at Zurich Airport 44 aja city resort Wellness Area 14 Arc'teryx Zürich 44 Au-Gust 25 Babu's Bakery 28 Bachmann - Chocolate World 12 Bar Basso 24 Bebek 25 Best of Zurich - Zürich City Tour 38 Beyer Watches & Jewellery 48 BIERlab 29 Boutique Christian Fischbacher 46 BrankoB 43 Brasserie Lipp 21 Braunwald 53 Café Boy 26 Calypso 30 Central Plaza 55 Chäsalp 20 Cheyenne 41 Chocolat Frey Visitor Centre 12, 54 CHRIST Watches & Jewelry 48 Cooper's Pub 41 Corazon 29 Coronado 57 Cranberry 33 Daniel H. 33 Dolmetsch 47 Drei Stuben 26 Ecco Store 45 El Luchador 19 Erfolg 46 Exil 32 Fabric Frontline 46 Fata Morgana 48 FIFA Hotel Ascot 55 FIFA World Football Museum 37 Fizzen 43 Flea Market Kanzlei 36 Flumserberg 52 Fondue cruise 14 Four Points by Sheraton Sihlcity 56 Fraumünster 34 Freitag 46 Fribourger Fonduestübli 20 Fruit & Veg Markets 36 Gamper Bar 32 gaymeboys.com online magazine 33

Giacometti murals 34 Giesserei Oerlikon 41 Glatt 44 Globus 43 Globus Delicatessa 46 Glockenhof 56 Goethe 30 Goodwin - The Steak House 23 Grossmünster 35 Gübelin 48 Harry Winston Zurich 48 Heaven 33 Heinicke 48 Helmhaus 56 Helsinki 32 Helvti Diner Bellevue 18 Henrici 28 Hive 32 Hongxi 19 Il Giglio 22 Italia 22 Jaime El Barco 41 Jelmoli 43 Kafi für Dich 54 Kafi Schnaps 29 Kanonaegass 29 Kauz 31 Kennedy's Irish Pub 31 Kokoro 24 Kosmos 17 Kronenhalle 26 Krone Unterstrass 57 Kunsthaus 37 Kurz Jewellery and Watches 49 LA Brea - SoCal Tacos 19 Lady's First 57 Lake Zurich Cruises 35 Le Cèdre - Bellevue 25 Leder Locher 46 Les Ambassadeurs 48 Les Halles 25 LGBT+ Helpline 33 Madrid 26 Maestrani's Chocolarium 13 Manuel's 31 Markthalle 26 Marta 57 Mascotte 32 Meier Tours - Gray Line Zurich 39 messer-scharf 47 Miki Ramen 24 Museum für Gestaltung Zürich - Museum of Design 38 National Museum (Landesmuseum) 38 Neue Taverne 20 Nonam 39

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket

Oepfelchammer 32 Old Crow 30 Ooki 24 Osswald 45 Paneolio 22 Partime 49 Perron 9 41 Petra's Tip Top Bar 33 Pile of Books 43 Predigerhof 33 Raclette Factory 20 Rage 33 Red Lips Strip Club | Cabaret | Nightclub 30 Rheinfelder Bierhalle 24 Rheinfelder Bierhaus / De Bluetig Duume 24 RiffRaff 17 Rolli's Steakhouse 41 Rote Fabrik 32 rrrevolve fair fashion 43 Sauna Seebad Enge 14 Say Chocolate 13 Scheuble 57 Schiwago 22 Schnupf 23 Schweizer Heimatwerk 47 Sihlpost 8 Simon's Steakhouse 23 Skating rink Dolder 14 Sprössling 21 Sprüngli Café & Restaurant 28 Stall 6 31 Storchen Zürich 55

St. Peter 36 Swimming baths Oerlikon 54 Swiss Casinos Zürich 29 Technorama - Swiss Science Centre 54 Teddy's Souvenir-Shop 47 The Bite 18 Thermalbad & Spa Zürich 14 The Zurich Experience City Tour 38 tibits 21 tibits Oerlikon 41 Titlis - Engelberg 53 Tram Museum and Vintage Tram 39 Tritt-Käse 46 Victorinox Flagship Store 49 Vollenweider Chocolatier Confiseur 13 Wellenberg 57 Werkstatt zur Gleistribüne 22 Widder 55 Wirtschaft Neumarkt 27 Wystube Isebähnli 21 Youth Hostel 57 Zero Zero Rare Groove 43 Zeughauskeller 27 Zum Grünen Glas 19 Zunfthaus zur Haue 19 zürichfoto.ch 47 Zurich Old Town Walking Tour 38

FEATURES INDEX Adult entertainment Beer Halls Breakfast Casino Cheese restaurants Contemporary architecture Guild Houses Lake Zurich Language smarts Live music More for less with the Zürich Card National holidays Supersaver tickets for trains Swiss cuisine Taxi smarts Tax free shopping Thermal Baths & Saunas Tourist Information Useful Zurich apps

30 24 28 29 20 37 19 35 7 32 36 9 6 27 6 48 14 8 8

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