Buying and merchandising -Fashion Timeline

LEVEL 4 DIPLOMA IN BUYING AND RANGE PLANNING FOR FASHION RETAIL.

Izabela Niemiec.

task 1

FASHION TIMELINE

Culture Films, TV Shows

Fashion Designers

INFLUENCE ON FASHION War Working Women

Festivals

Technology

Paul Poiret – Revolutionary designs of the French Designer who brought retro look: Slim skirts, loosen corsets which allowed women to breathe. He also brought harem pants , kimono and higher waisted look.

During the world war 1 The silhouette evolvedLampshade shape skirt was brought in as well as asymmetrical draping techniques .

After the market Crash in 1929 and The Great Depression More down to earth attitudes Let designers to explore new Simplicity. For instance the famous little black dress by Coco Chanel.

Coco Chanel

Coco Chanel – Little Black Dress

1900-10

1920-30 Waist has been dropped to the hip level and dresses became unfitted. This time its known as a Flapper Era. Decorative seaming, contrasting fabrics, and overlays began to appear.

Quality, previously apparent by means of complicated fit and construction was now expressing itself through fabric and by manipulating a single layer of material.

(Vintagefashionguild.org, 2016)

1930-1940 Designers started to simplify the Waste line, and experiment with New materials , like silk. It became fashionable to wear ,,House pijamas”they were trouser with wide bottoms made from soft material.

Fashion was influenced by movies,thanks to designers like Irene.

As a result of World War II, Fabrics became less available, And that lasted thorough the whole Decade.

Leftover military fabrics were used.

Women wore skirt below the knee and straight.

Tops were worn with boxy padded jackets.

Late 1950 brought full skirts, and tiny waits.

Anther very popular look which was introduced it was a pencil skirt.

Cocktail dresses become also very popular

1940-1950

In 1947 Christian Dior Introduces his revolutionary New Look Collection. He introduced completely new style which Involved rounded shoulders massive bust lines, padded hips, and full skirt which required loads of material.

1950-1960

1950 was also a year of Pret –aPorter (ready to wear).

Baleciaga itrodueced new look – flawlessy cut clothing.

And Yves Saint Lauren brought us –Trapez Dress

Late 60s are known As Hippie Era. Young people were depressed by the Vietnam war .

Teenagers rebelled against the values of their parents generation, and established their own trends, rules, fashion, music.

Beginning of the 1960 is known as Keneddies Era. Women were inspired by Jackie Kennedy and her style. She was Named a “Queen� of American fashion.

She was know for wearing iconic suits.

Coco Chanel suit became very popular at that time.

Brigitte Bardot

1960-170 Mid 1960 brought revolutionary changes .

Mary Quant inspired by young peoples high street Style designed A-line mini skirt which became a must have through the whole decade.

Girls got their inspirations from style icons like Twiggy and Brigitte Bardot.

Mini skirt look Became very popular.

Very often worn with GoGo boots , and nylon Tights.

Twiggy

In the mid 1970 Glam/ Glitter rock look was brought on to the fashion scene. Nothing was too much –high platform shoes were the number one look.

David Bowie, Kiss , New York Dolls were the style icons.

Disco Fashion became big in New York.

Studio 54 leads disco trends.

Hippies Flower Era gets carried for the first half of the 1970.

Flared pants , and flowery shirts were still “top look”.

Denim look became very popular.

1970-1980

Women stopped showing off their bodies , and started to wear trousersPantsuit look was introduced.

Dawid Bowie

Studio 54 Fashion Party New York-1980.

Punk Fashion developed alongside with the music.

This style represented darker, unhappy , rebellion side of reality. It was dangerous.

Increasing profile of women in the workplace required a new style.

This decade witnessed a birth of “Power Dressing� .

Everything was oversized, power suit came back with over sized shoulder pads.

This fitness trend was a combination between dance and gym clothes.

This style was popular within music icons like Madonna Girls also got inspired by Movie-Flashdance.-after that tracksuit became an every day wear.

1980-1990

Vivienne Westwood and Malcom McLaren opened SEX shop in London.

That had a massive influence on british fashion.

The term Yuppie was used to describe young career Driven professionals. Their look involved traditional Blue blazers, Ralph Lauren cardigans tied over one shoulder.

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One thing about the decade we can say confidently was that after the conspicuous consuming years of the 1980s less became more in the 1990s. Not everyone adopted minimalism, but many did as they sought to blend and fit with an increasingly aggressive urban society. The silhouette became neater as shoulder pads finally died and jewellery became non existent or chic in its fineness and barely there quality. http://www.fashionera.com/power_dressing.htm

• Breward, C., Gilbert, D. and Lister, J. (2006). Swinging sixties. London: V & A.

Sophisticated Heritage

Hugo Boss is a German fashion house which was founded in 1924 by Hugo Boss.

He was a Nazi member and was designing SS uniforms , which brought the company big profit. Until the end of Nazi he was a provider and a manufacturer for their uniforms.

After the war , his son in law took over the company and start to manufacturing suits.

In the 1970 first suits with the Hugo Boss logo been produced.

Brand Boss includes classic menswear.

Boss Orange-quirky styling with bohemian influences.

Boss Green –golf style active clothing.

Hugo – includes fashion styling with European influences.

Mood board above shows how Hugo Boss statement suit and menswear is influenced by classic tailored suit from the war times or even later 1950 years.

Designed and the shape developed only by use of different materials and to fit todays modern man.

As we can see accessories been taken form the classic gentleman look , hats , suitcases ,and shoes still have that sophisticated look.

Mary Quant had a huge influence on the style of the decade.

Carnaby Street became a centre for men's as well as women's fashion in 1960s.

Mary Quant Mini Skirt and the Shift Dress Vidal Sasson – geometric style hair

Keneddies Era

1963 Trends were associating with youth , what was worn on a high Street , was picked up by designers.

Marry Quant influences fashion

Pierre Cardin ultimate designer for men.

Ossie Clark – throwaway paper shift dress.

Stephen Bates – Designs jumpsuit for Avengers

Mid 60s

1966Modernist style ; Twiggy style icon

Vietnam war and events in USA, started Hippy Cultureyoung people were doing everything just to not be like their parents. colourful clothes, own style and music- young led the old, London was the inspiration for the whole world.

Late1960s –Vietnam war ; Flower Power

Hot pants , mini shorts, with flat heeled white boots.

It's hard to discribe a distinct Winklepickers (also known as shoe look for the 60’s. Conservative women stuck winkle pickers) were sharp shoes, quite literally, with a with the stiletto but slip on shoes pointed toe. Winkle pickers with clunky heels were also were popular mainstream popular to wear with pants. Of fashion for young men in the course, there were boots to go early 60s. The pointed toe along with the mini skirt. First was also fashionable for they were loose plastic or plain young ladies' shoes, which were also known as winkle leather but eventfully they pickers . morphed into clinging treated textiles. Go-go boots were the (Vintagefashionguild.org, 2016) must have and came in every different height imaginable.

Influence from 60s today SHOES

The swinging 60s were the Golden Age of freedoms, with so much happening in music, politics, society, morals .

It's hard to describe a distinct shoe look for the Young people refused to be/look/act/think as their 60’s. Conservative women stuck with the stiletto but slip on parents did. Young let the old. shoes with clunky heels were also popular to wear with pants. Of We can still see it all in todays fashion . Leading course, there were boots to go along with the mini skirt. First designers like Micheal Kors , Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs they were loose plastic or plain leather but eventfully they in their collection in 2013 brought us back to the fresh , morphed into clinging treated textiles. Go-go boots were the young colourful fashion trends from 60s: must have and came in every different height imaginable.

-A-line dresses -Kitten heels -Pointed toes.

Winklepickers (also known as winkle pickers) were sharp shoes, Which we can find in leading high street shops like quite literally, with a pointed toe. Winkle pickers were popular Asos, New Look , Top Shop . mainstream fashion for young men in the early 60s. The pointed One of the main shoe styles is the Chelsea boots (wet toe was also fashionable for young ladies' shoes, which were alsolook) which was brought to us by Mary Quant .

Another style also brought by Mary is the A line shaped known as winkle pickers . skirt which just recently arrived in high street shops like River Island .

(Vintagefashionguild.org, 2016) B ig fashion trends for men are: Denim shirt, Winklepickers boots , and which I personally think main one is theTrench Coat designed by Lord John. Now found in a big fashion houses like Burberry .

Looking at the whole 60s we can see how dramatically fashion been changing just during those 10 years , and how it was sheped by historical events.

1960’S Era in articles.

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“The Chanel suit, originally designed by Coco Chanel in the 1920s, was still popular with many women in the 1960s. Jackie Kennedy was a role model for older women in the 60s. She is pictured right with John F Kennedy in the pink Chanel suit she wore on the day of his assassination. Later stained with JFK's blood it became one of the most famous pieces of clothing in history. “

Fashion went through a revolution in the 1960s. Mary Quant “ decided that young women needed their own style when she opened her first store, Bazaar, on the King's Road as early as 1955. She popularised the mini skirt and shift dress which became the foundation of 'the look' for the mid sixties. Vidal Sassoon's geometric hair styles completed the image. A new type of store, the boutique, colourful and trendy with pop music filling the air, became the place to buy these new clothes.

In the second half of the 60s, young people discovered the past and searched for Victorian and Edwardian military uniforms in shops such as 'I Was Lord Kitchener's Valet' in Portobello Road. Change came again at the end of the decade when the hippy style - beads, kaftans and long hair replaced the look of the mid 60s. The style reached its peak in the Summer of 1967, but continued to influence fashion well into the 1970s.”

(Retrowow.co.uk, 2016)

make it mini

White River Island top

Zara suede jacket

River island coat Vintage Chanel bag

River ‘island boots Cut out leather boot –Nasty Gal

The Mini skirt was the mainstay in the1960s .It was designed by Mary Quant who influenced 60s fashion. Her designs were complementing a woman’s shape . The main aim was to design clothes that will suit everyday life.

For my collection I have chosen a mini skirt where the design hasn’t changed much since 1960. The A line shape compliments the figure and it suits all body types. It can be worn everyday and for every occasion , Nowadays we can buy it from leading high street designers and it comes in various colours and designs, and all different kinds of materials .

Product on high street

Chelsea boots

Links between products

Era

1960

£40.00 Bomber jacket.

1930

Nylon fabric with stud detail.

£58.00

Evening dress

1920

Embellished chiffon with sequin detail.

100% Polyester

Task 5

£120.00

White colour block asymmetric column dress

1960

36% Nylon (polyamide), 64% Viscose

£45.00 Flarred jeans 7% Polyester, 2% Elastane, 91% Cotton .

1970

£42.00

Monochrome jacquard dress

£35.00 100% Polyester Jersey

1960

1930 100% Polyester

ÂŁ38.00

1920 Kimono 95% Polyester, 5% Elastane

ÂŁ60.00

Swim suit £30.00

Denim shirt £29.99

Jacket with shoulder pads. £190.00

1960

1970

FUTURISTIC DENIM

Yohji Yamamoto

DKNY

Yohji Yamamoto

J.APOSTROPHE

Yohji Yamamoto

JULIEN DAVID

Joseph

Task 6

Supersize 1990

similarities with the late 90s style but the aim

The statement suit

Calvin Klein pencil skirt suit

Pierre Balmain day suit 1953

Asos workwear 2016

Asos tweedy skirt suit Top shop suit

1940-work clothes Zara suit

Gucci denim jacket

Embroided Denim

Alexander McQueen Spring 2016

Dolce and Gabbana jeans

http://www.wgsn.com/storage/vol21/ss_image_store/56/43/84 /52/thumb_08_High_Waist_DIY.jpg

Deconstructing the Artefact

African mask meaning

LLulua mask –

http://www.artyfactory.com/africanmasks/information/african-mask-functions.htm

Clothes.

Romans created their own style and cut of clothes.T he material used to form the clothes were either wool, or linen. Clothes sewn through thick needles. Any seams and stitching were kept to a minimum. There were no buttons, but they used different kinds of brooches or clips.

Roman dress consisted of tunic and the top cover. The colour was usually white.

Roman helmet mask made from bronze. http://www.imperiumromanum.edu.pl/spoleczenstwo/ubior-starozytnych-rzymian/

Gladiators were slaves who professionally fought in order to entertain Romanian public .

Gladiator games came from the tradition of Etruscan. The appeal was to distract public from political problems .

The contest of the game was usually the matter of the life and death.

Their clothing depended on how well they fought , if they were a good fighter their master would make sure that they look good at the arena. That way he wanted to show off his wealth to the people.

Their fancy armor was made from black or brown leather.

Richer form of tunics, founded in the late Empire, was Dalmatica, which was made from wool, line or linen.

The range of colours used in the production of Roman clothing was achieved through a complicated process of dyeing.

They were able to achieve the following colours: white, purple, blue, red, scarlet, orange, yellow, green, brown, black.

Shoes The difference between male and female shoes, was small. Man and women usually wore sandals with a strap around their ankle.

Cherry blossom CheBlossom

Geisha

Architecture

JAPAN Japanese gardens

Lanterns

TOKYO

Kimono Sushi

Platforms

KYOTO

Japanese kimono

Japanese lanterns

Japanese Culture Geisha

Alexander McQueen spring 2015

Kimono

Cherry blossom Dior Haute Couture

Tina Patni Amato Haute Couture

K i m o n o

Dries Van Noten spring 2016

Delpozo Fall 2016

Issey Miyake Fall

Delpozo Fall 2016

Etro S/S2013

Delpozo Fall 2016 Valentino Fall 2016

Japanese culture :Impact and influence on fashion .

Japanese culture is seen everyday on a catwalk. Designers take their inspirations from original Japanese costumes . Floral prints, shapes and the designs. One of the main themes taken from Japanese Culture is Kimono- which is the main piece of Japanese/ Geisha of their outfit. They are hand made , from soft fabrics and with beautiful flower prints .They are worn by Geishas who wear them everyday. Kimonos usually have various patterns which “tell” a story of the kimono , or the house which Geisha is from.

Designers like: Delpozo, Etro ,Valentino used Kimono as their main piece in their 2016/17 collection.

Kimono is shown as a coat with embroider flower pieces .

Original Japanese Kimono

Etro went for traditional Kimono style , and made into evening wear with soft fabrics and beautiful floral prints .

Different sort of design of kimono we can see at Issay Miyake Fall collections – his modern version of kimono is completely different to other designers but we can still see where the idea and shape came from.

http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/65507/page/3 http://cehs.unl.edu/textilegallery/

http://www.matchesfashion.co m/womens/designers/isseymiyake-women#

This link is about Exhibit opened on the 24th of February 2014 , and it features Japanese influenced garments, and the traditional Japanese Costumes.

The exhibit is devoted to the interface between traditional Japanese dress and contemporary Western fashion. Over 18 traditional kimonos in various shapes and sizes are included, along with a significant collection of obis.

(Network, 2016)

Japanese Designers Issey Miyake showed his outfits on that exhibit He takes his ideas and influences from Japanese culture , especially the main piece of the Geisha garment which is Kimono. He uses modern techniques ,and modern fabrics in his collections while he uses the basic design of the kimono as his theme.

(Network, 2016)

PAPER

NEW YEAR

HONG KONG

BRUSH PAINTING

YING YANG

THE GREAT WALL OF CHINA DRAGON DANCE

CHINA

SHANGHAI ORCHIDS

RED SEA BEACH LANDSCAPE

Chinese Culture 中國文化

中國文化

Alexander McQueen Fall 2016

Chinese fashion week Vogue Dior Couture fall 2016

Chinese fashion week

Vogue

Dior Couture 2009

Chinese influence in fashion

Shimmering metallic

Brocade

花香 Floral prints

Gucci A/W 2016

Adidas

Gucci A/W2016

Platforms

列印

Tassels

Evaluation –Chinese Culture influence and impact on fashion.

Chinese culture is one of the oldest cultures in the world.

Their fashion culture was always changing dramatically , through the political changes. https://www.travelchinaguide.com/intro/clothing/ Inspired by the China through the looking glass exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Designers decided to combine traditional colours and shapes from the East , with modern silhouettes.

They want to establish a new feminine look.

Colours which they have been using are rich , and bold like true red , porcelain blue , jade green.

Patterns are traditional blue and white , inspired by ceramics print. Floral patterns are also getting used.

Little details like tassels , lace trims , are playing a big role in this style.

Chinese culture ha been a big inspiration for big designers Paul Poiret, Yves Saint Lauren, Gucci. http://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/listings/2015/chinathrough-the-looking-glass

At the Metropolitan Museum of Art, we can Can find an exhibition called China Looking Glass.

This exhibition shows the impact of Chinese culture on fashion. Chinese paintings , films, costumes are used to reveal reflections of Chinese Imagery.

Street art New York

Iris Apfel

Fashion

Sex and the City Fashion Trends

Yellow Taxis

Broadway Style

Central Park

Friends Carrie Bradshaw

http://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/new-york-fashion-week-2016street-style

New York High street style.

This trend / style is a combination of various styles and people , because people who use streets as their catwalk are the ones who end up on blogs , fashion websites , magazines. This style is a inspiration for many fashion bloggers .

It all started from street photography , which is seen as a form of art that features random incident which occur in public places It can focus on peoples behaviour , looks , street performances, and in this case is the New York streets.

New York attracts millions of people every day .

Lifestyle , fashion , shops , trends are the main things which brings people every day.

Different cultures make this city buzzing .

Trends which are captured by photographers show that you do not have to famous to be noticed .

‘ “I feature people who live full creative lives. They live life to the fullest, age gracefully and continue to grow and challenge themselves.’’

Advanced Style

Advanced Style is a fashion blog run by Ari Seth Cohen. He photographs stylish women over 50 years old.

The reason why he started this fashion blog was to get closer to his grandmother who was his best friend.

After she passed away he noticed lack of older people in fashion (adverts , campaigns , street style websites) He says: "I wanted to show that you can be stylish, creative and vital at any age.”

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NX46yvihOGU http://www.advanced.style/

Asos launched a collection inspired by style icon Iris Apfelcalled “Granny’s attic”.

This trend references a variety of decades.

Different styles and materials mixed together make perfect outfits for every occasion. Just like Iris who loves over style every outfit, this trend is perfect for “maximalist” styling .

Granny’s Attic www.asos.co.uk

The world of Kardashians and its social influences on todays fashion and behaviour.

Well known Kardashian family who's got their own show , became very popular In recent years. First in America, then here in the UK. Thanks to very good marketing skills of Kris Jenner family became very popular and gained many followers and fans.

Kim Kardashian known for her astonishing look and bog booty has over 37 mln followers.

Her sisters are not far behind, right up with Kylie and Kendal Jenner. They have gained Their popularity by scandalous events , which involved sex tapes and , friendships with Celebrities.

Currently Kardashians clan earns million of dollars , for attending social events , parties, for simple tweets , and all that thanks to millions of people who follow their accounts on Instagram , Twitter, Facebook, and of course watch Keeping up with the Kardashians.

Show gets streamed on E! channel .Their popularity is massive , world is obsessed with Kardashians , with their looks, style , life style. Many of teenage girls take their look inspiration of how to dress , what's on now, how to live by watching that show and by following them on social media.

Kim , Kylie and rest of the family capture their every move , they live for social media . That’s why we are able To see what they were wearing , what they have been up to and all their recent gossips.

Loads of young girls gets influenced by their looks.

They want their body , make up , lips , hair , they want the whole package .

Kardashians created that certain image of their perfect body. Instagram accounts show their selfies with full make up , new outfits, special apps got created ( using certain filters ) so people will look like Kim, or Kylie.

Picture taking nowadays involves 100 of filters , different make up apps or make over apps.

Anything to create that flawless contoured look started by the Kim Kardashian. When they upload new picture they automatically start a new trend like – rose blond hair, fuller lips look, contour face look.

It seems that Kardashians are the trends leaders. People want to look at them , and be them .

Analysing this I am able to tell that level of insecurity nowadays has been increased by “flawless” celebrity looks.

Especially within teenagers who blindly follow their perfect idols , they make themselves look older than they actually are and create this whole fake image which doesn’t have any purity of the child. I personally think that there should be a line between being trendy and taking care of ourselves and copying someone's lifestyle which half of the teenagers cannot afford.

This fake image can lead to serious consequences , which could involved bullying , cyber bullying ,and even extreme cases Rape- because by looking older and dressing older than they actually are they attract those unwanted behaviours.

Here are some examples of people willingness to look like their idols .

Fashion

We can also find sisters on their personals websites on which we are able to follow their each move, what they were wearing at that day and where we can we buy it.

Kylie and Kendal have their own style websites which shows how to dress like them and look like them.

After their each post we get an immediate update of outfit and where will we be able to purchase it.

High street online retailers also do not fall behind The Kardashians. By launching Kardashians style inspired collections, they successfully attract million of fans who want to look like favourite celebrities .

We can see how businesses use famous names to attract potential consumers.

Media made so easy , by googling one of the sisters name we are able to see what can we do to look like one of the sisters , and where shall we shop . We can imagine that Kardashian driven business will bring millions of costumers .

As we can see there are pros and cons where is comes to celebrities influences .Everything is for people, but sometimes that line should be drawn and everyone should remember that their a special and unique just like their idols.

.

Task 10 Brand is everything what company stands for .It is a promise of a certain product advertised by the companies . To be successful it has to be addressed to a right audience and it has to have a right descriptions in which it talks about the brand and it purpose.

Brand trust is build through clients perceptions , expectations and their experiences . Product can be made by any company , but it is the brand which keeps the reputation of the business and the business running successfully .

In this advert the link between fashion product and the branding is not very clear , we are not able to see what does the company wants to show.

However the brand statement –I hate ugly – used as a main message in the advert is simple and strong at the same time , but we are unable to see what does it describe.

We get a clear message from the brand but we do not get a product.

To make this advert easier to read I would perhaps , use another female/male model and I would put more clothes so the product would become easier to see. And I would make the background colourful ,a and the back of the car I would leave black and white, by doing this I would put more focus on the “pretty” bit of the advert and pointed out the ugly bit which no one wants (black and white back of the car).

Advert for the company EXPRESS. First thing we see it a quote by famous Coco Chanel.

-I don’t do fashion. I am fashion.

Anyone who knows a little bit about fashion world knows that Coco Chanel made revolutionary changes to a fashion world , and that she was one of the most stylish women.

This quote strategically used as a brand statement is targeted to all the customers who wants to be or who are stylish and chic. Its very clear that each product on this website is a top product and that by buying it we will be trendy .

Great , catchy advert.

The only thing I would change would be the logo of the company , we cannot see who is the company this advert is for. I would bring up the logo EXPRESS to the front and make it looking more noticeable to potential customers.

Relationship between product and the branding is very visible.

Company name and logo is strong , and easy to understand .

Brand message is provocative but obvious at the same time. It is targeted to the male audience and it describes the make and its purpose.

Product is clear and directed to their audience.

Personally I think it is a great advert and I wouldn’t change anything, because it does the job.

Relationship between brand and the product is visible and it sends the correct message .

Brand message is catchy and understable to a customer.

Product and the company name are clear and visible.

The whole advert tells us a little story which combined with the bold statement makes it more interesting. Play with words used in a brand message it promises fun and asks us to make/create our own rules.

This advert is eye catching , rich and fun.

I wouldn’t change anything about it , because I personally think it meets all the necessary requirements of the advertising , it sends a clear message to a targeted audience, who in this case is everyone .

Link between the product and the branding is noticeable.

There is no brand message , just the company logo.

The audience to which this advert is directed to are men .

This advert is by a Dolce & Gabbana and its directed to male customers , its clear and it states the product, there is no brand message because Dolce & Gabbana is a big brand itself and the name of it says it all , we know that we will get a good quality products.

Company logo is rich and bold .

The adverts stands out .

The only thing I would add is a little statement , which could send message to more potential customers , perhaps to the ones who do not know the actual brand.

Relationship between branding and the fashion product is clear.

Brand and the products are visible.

There is no brand statement but the advert itself sends the right message . Colourful and dynamic outfits make the consumer want to check other products by Tom Ford who's brand is known by everyone in fashion world, and even if its not the “fullness� of it encourages to buy these exact clothes.

This ad sends a very clear message about the brand and its audience .Dior make is very well known and doesn’t need a big statement Use of a famous actress makes this commercial more distinguish and it promises the product to be a very high quality .

Product is targeted to a female customers , because of the use of the female actress , the clothes and the accessories.

It is a successful advert because a very famous make uses a very famous actress who's one of the most looked up celebrities.

This is a Marc Jacobs advert.

The model in its Victoria Beckham.

We cannot see the product or the brand .

Message is not clear. We don’t know who's the recipient.

Because of the was she is lying we are unable to the name of the brand , and we cannot tell who is in it and what it the purpose of it.

I would change the whole ad , and I would ensure that the model is visible , same as the brand and the product. This way we would make this advert interesting and inviting.

Calvin Klein advert.

Brand and product are visible.

But the message isn’t clear , we do know if the product is targeted to women or men , because of the way the model has her hands.

We also don’t know what the ad is trying to tell us .

Nike Advert Well known sportswear brand uses as their statement quote , which do not exactly communicate the product to us.-Greatness wears sweat as a perfume. It is provocative ,however is not clear.

We don’t know the exact product .

I think that’s this commercial is unsuccessful and there is not much links between the fashion product and the branding.

I would add some clothes with a Nike logo on them and change the statement .That would show customers what it’s the main product .

Balmain

Kenzo

Versace

Alexander Wang

Sonia Rykiel

Karl Lagerfeld Marni

New Remix

Satin cap

Wool coat

Ankle Boots

Pleated top

H&M logo H&M sports a simple and free-spirited typographical logo as the company’s target customers are mainly youth and students.

Colours of H&M Logo The use of red colour in the H&M logo symbolizes such qualities as passion, love, acceptance, courage, energy, joy and youthfulness.

Font of H&M Logo The H&M logotype incorporates a custom-made italic typeface.

History In the 1946 Swedish entrepreneur opens his first shop in Vasteras and names it Hennes – Swedish for hers.

His aim was to offer customers fashionable clothing at low prices.

He designed H&M logo himself.

First store in capital opens in 1952.

In the 1968 he joins Stockholm based hunting and fishing clothing company called, and the name is changed to Hennez& Mauritz.

By the 1969 the have 42 stores , new store opens in Netherlands, United Kingdom.

1973 they start selling underwear, and expanded their collections to a menswear. In this year Abba member becomes the first super model photographed for the company, wearing make up from the new cosmetic range.

In the late 1970 , teenagers get their own version of H&M an the concept Impuls is launched.

In the 1990 introduction of massive advertising billboards with famous supermodels on them , which shows that the company became international, in this year a famous Christmas campaign is launched , and brings loads o media attention.

Throughout the 1990s, models from– Elle Macpherson, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer, Christy Turlington and Linda Evangelista – are used in H&M’s campaigns.

1998 – first online shopping website in Sweden.

In 2000 they open their first store in New York. Four year later a famous designer Karl Lagerfeld teams up with H&M. After him fashion designers like Vercase , Roberto Cavalli , Sonia Rykiel , Jimmy Choo, Alexander Wang , Stella McCartney.

In 2013 they introduced Garment Collecting –Customer start bringing all clothes in , and the would get recycled.

In 2014 they launch Sport Wear, and in 2015 beauty products get launched in.

In the 2015 they launch Global Change Award founded by H&M foundation.

Lace maxi dress £49.99 Fitted maxi dress in lace with ribbon appliqués, a cut-out section at the back with buttons at the back of the neck and long sleeves with raw-edge cuffs. Lining in a contrasting colour.

Small shoulder bag £24.99 Small shoulder bag with a flap and magnetic fastener, wide adjustable, detachable shoulder strap in fabric and imitation leather, two compartments and a small inner compartment.

Wide shorts £24.99 Short, wide shorts in sturdy stretch fabric with pleats at the top and a concealed zip in the side.

Halterneck body £24.99 Sleeveless, draped body in two types of stretch jersey with a wrapover front, a halter neck with hookand-eye fasteners at the back of the neck and an open back

Black lace panel bodycon dress £32.00 •Soft jersey with lace inserts •Bodydcon fit •Plunge neckline •Long sleeve •Midi length

Black quilted shoulder bag

£25.00 •Quilted design •Popper fastening •Chain shoulder strap •Gold tone accents

Black flippy shorts

£30.00 •Textured fabric •Flippy design •Belted waist

£20.00 Black draped bodysuit Single jersey Draped front Sleeveless

Cameo Rose Black Crochet Lace Midi Dress £24.99 Crochet lace fabric - Bardot neckline - Zip back fastening - Slim fit that is closely cut - Midi length

Black Quilted Box Shoulder Bag £12.99 Quilted finish - Single handle strap - Gold chain detail - Buckle fastening

Black shorts £12.99 All over crochet design - Casual fit that is true to size - Mini length - Soft cotton fabric

Black Choker Neck Velvet Playsuit £24.99 Choker neckline - Cut out front - Sleeveless design - Velvet fabric - Zip back fastening - Casual fit that is true to size - Mini length

Floral Lace Sheath Dress £23.00 A sheath dress crafted from semi-sheer floral lace with built-in contrast lining, a mock neckline, 3/4 sleeves with eyelash trim, an invisible back zipper, and a scalloped eyelash lace hem.

Quilted Faux Leather Bag £18.00 faux leather shoulder bag featuring a quilted pattern, twisted chain straps, and an interior slip pocket.

Belted Floral-Embroidered Shorts £19.00 A pair of woven shorts featuring a braided faux suede belt.

Contemporary WrapFront Bodysuit £13.00 A knit bodysuit featuring a wrap front, chest cut out, round neckline, long sleeves, and a snap button closure.

Draped maxi dress £39.99 Long, fitted dress in lightly crêped jersey with a V-neck, long sleeves, seam at the waist, a high slit at the front and concealed zip at the back.

Adjustable belt at the waist with a gold-coloured metal fastener and concealed pressstuds Lined at the top.

Sleeveless dress £29.99 Short, fitted dress in sturdy, ribbed jersey with wide shoulder straps, wrapover bust and cut-out section at the back.

Black ruched wrap maxi dress £60.00 •Silky jersey fabric •Ruched wrap dress •Gold ring crossover strap detail •Bodycon fit •Sleek plunge neck •Split skirt

£30.00 Red wrap choker dress

Mela Black Embellished Maxi Dress £35.00 - Simple long sleeves - Embellished detail - Rounded neckline - Casual fit that is true to size

Black Choker V Neck Bodycon Dress £24.99 Choker neckline - Wrap front - V neckline - Sleeveless design - Split front hem - Slim fit that is closely cut

£19.99 Leather pencil skirt £79.99 Pencil skirt in soft leather with a concealed zip in the side, side pockets and a slit at the front. Lined.

Platform sandals £29.99 Platform sandals in imitation leather with an elasticated ankle-high shaft with an adjustable metal fastener, imitation leather insoles and rubber soles.

Black exposed zip leather look pencil skirt £32.00 •Faux leather •Textured panelling •Exposed front zip fastening •Pencil skirt

Black patent thick strap platform heels £45.00 •Patent upper •Thick multi strap design •Buckled ankle strap •Chunky platform heel

Black LeatherLook Pencil Skirt .

Wide Fit Black Strappy Platform Heels £27.99

Mesh Maxi Dress £23.00 A semi-sheer maxi dress featuring a floral embroidered mesh, long sleeves, an illusion neckline, round neckline, and a flared hem

Asymmetrical Wrap Dress £24.00

A sleeveless partially lined woven wrap dress featuring a plunging V-neckline with an asymmetrical hem and a ruched side

Contemporary Faux Leather Skirt £16.00 A faux leather skirt featuring a knee-length and concealed back zipper.

Platform Block Heel Sandal £29.99 Flaunting a block heel and a platform, these sandals are complete with a double-buckle ankle strap. Get your maxi and mini dresses ready for these must-have shoes.

Dress with lace £39.99 Backless V-neck dress in woven fabric with narrow shoulder straps that cross at the back and an underdress with a lace trim at the top.

Leather biker jacket £199

Biker jacket in soft leather with lapels with a press-stud, a diagonal zip at the front, zipped chest and side pockets, and a zip at the cuffs.

Strappy jumpsuit £39.99

Jumpsuit in sturdy jersey with double narrow shoulder straps that cross at the back, a deep V-neck, low-cut back and a seam at the waist with long, wide legs. Partly lined.

Satin strappy top with lace £19.99 Satin top with narrow adjustable shoulder straps, a V-neck and wide lace trim at the top. Slightly longer at the front.

Black lace hem cami midi dress £30.00 •Lightweight fabric •Black lace trim detail •Textured satin back •V-neck •Cami straps

Black biker jacket £60.00 Leather-look •Biker style •Long sleeve •Asymmetric zip fastening •Stud detail •Zip pockets

Black cami jumpsuit £48.00 •Woven •Cami neck •Sleeveless

Black stripe lace hem cami £26.00 •Striped satin finish •Dipped neckline •Cami straps •Lace hem detail

£19.99 Dark Green Cami Slip Dress - V neckline - Cut out back - Shoestring straps - Casual fit that is true to size

Black biker jacket £29.99

Leather-look finish - Double side zip pocket detail - Simple long sleeves - Zip front fastening - Lapel detail

Black Notch Neck Jumpsuit £24.99

Notch neckline - Adjustable straps - Double pocket back detail - Side pocket - Zip back fastening - Slim fit that is closely cut Black Sateen Layered Colour Block Cami £14.99

Eyelash Lace Cami Dress £15.00 This knit cami dress is crafted from eyelash lace with a scalloped hem, adjustable straps, and a concealed back zipper.

Faux Leather Moto Jacket £27.00 Faux leather moto jacket featuring an asymmetrical zippered front, front zippered pockets, and long sleeves with zippered cuffs.

Crisscross Back Playsuit £23.00 A gauze jumpsuit featuring adjustable crisscross straps, a plunging Vneckline with cutouts, elasticized waist, and pockets.

Floral Lace Trim Cami £9.00 A soft knit cami featuring adjustable straps and a wide V-neckline with floral

.

lace trim

Comp Shop evaluation.

On of the two H&M competitors are New Look and River island and Forever 21.

Both of the companies are fast fashion businesses . They deliver newest trends to their shop and they never fail to deliver that .

By the looking at their Going Out collections , we can notice that they all have similar style or colours , they just use different materials.

H&M in their collection use Jersey as main fabric with their cheaper items, however in their Limited Edition collections materials like real leather get used with skirts ,trousers, biker jackets or cashmere with jumpers.. I have noticed that H&M use better fabrics with their expensive limited collections , where River Island or New Look tend to use cheaper material with the similar items from not limited edition clothes , but make them at the higher prices , than H&M. With the name Limited Collection (which involves day to day wear , as well as Party outfits) we know that we will get a good quality items made form high quality fabrics .

Where their competitors tend to only have limited collection with going out outfits.

Competitors: History and mission statement.

River Island

New Look

Forever 21

1969 1948 Bernard Lewis starts selling knitting wool from The Wool Shop on an East London bomb site 1955 Lewis Separates, as it has become known, increases from five stores to nine .

1965 -With 70 stores , rebranded to Chelsea Girl 1982- menswear is launched 1988-New brand launched – River Island.

At River Island we always aim to bring new and original fashion to you, with great design at the heart of everything we create. Almost all of our products are designed in-house and, as we have one of the largest design teams on the High Street, we are proud that we can deliver fabulous new fashion in-store and online for you every single week

.

River Island. (2016). About Us - River Island. [online] Available at: http://www.riverisland.com/inside-river-island/about-us [Accessed 4 Oct. 2016].

Opened first store in Taunton 1988 Opened first store in France 1996 Launched our teen wear range: Generation 915 2000-MIM (the French fashion store) joins our Group

2004 maternity range

2011 - first ever TV show, on Channel 4: New Look Style The Nation . Launched mobile shop

It’s about that upcoming party, the catch up with friends and all the excitement that comes with it. We put our customers at the heart of everything we do; this helps us to understand how they feel when searching for products and ultimately, making sure they feel great when wearing them, whatever the occasion.

By reacting quickly to the latest trends and interpreting them in a way that’s wearable for our customers, we can help them find a look that fits their personal style. So whether they’re looking for the latest trends, or simply that perfect party dress, we’ve got it covered.

2011(Newlookgroup.com, 2016)

1984 first shop opened known As fashion 21 n los Angeles.

Its known For their trendy style economical pricing.

Their goal is to open more stores , but they do not focus directly on their customers or their employees.

It is a typical fast fashion retailer.

Mission Statement and marketing strategy. ‘’We want to make fashion sustainable and sustainability fashionable. The commitment of our employees is key to our success. We are dedicated creating a better fashion future and we use our size and scale to drive development towards a more circular and inclusive fashion industry.’’

H&M is the largest ant the fastest growing company – they are one of the main leaders in Fast Fashion .

Their collection are based on the most recent catwalk trends.

They have a very good understanding of their market – which are low price range of clothes which they renewed frequently.

Their marketing strategies are based on bringing in celebrities and top designers into their campaigns.

They doing this by using bold and striking advertising .

They also have a wide range if resources to help their customers understand their brand and find out about the newest fashion trends – They have H&M magazine which has all newest catwalk trends ,and newest H&M collections.

They have H&M foundation which mission is to drive long lasting changes in living conditions for everyone by : -supporting children education - They fight for equal rights for all women and girls.

- Recycling old clothes to protect the planet.

Market research

Customer Profile

Name

Gender

Age

Favourite shops

Hobbies/Tv Shows/Spare time activities

Occupation

Amy

Female

21

River Island Meeting up with H&M, Zara, Gap friends , going out/ The Only way is Essex

Fashion Student

Roxy

Female

24

New Look, Zara , H&M, Miss Selfridge

Running/ Going out/ Made in Chelsea/ I am Celebrity

Student/ part time sale assistant

Laura

Female

19

Forever 21, Bershka, Top Shop, h&m

Going out/ Gym classes/ Celebrities go dating

Student/part time sales assistant.

Katie

Female

23

Top Shop, River Island, H&M

Dance Classes/ Gym / Big Brother, anything on Netflix.

Full time Sale Assistant.

H&M customer.

Based on a quick questionnaire we can see that H&M customer are usually women from 19-25 .

She is a usually in full time education , or in full time employment.

Their hobbies are similar , they include Gym Classes, Outdoor exercises .

In the spare time they like to go out with friends , and watch variety of TV shows mainly Made in Chelsea, Celebrities go dating or I am a Celebrity .

Their looks and being on top with fashion trends is very important to them , especially nowadays where looks are driven by celebrities and media.

They all say that being physically attractive its very important for them for being in full time education they are not able to afford a expensive outfits, but they to go out and enjoy themselves at the same time.

Their majority of time they spend online is to browse thorough shopping websites.

Key points: •

• • • • •

Digital wave Phase 1

Praising the work of 1980 designers like Armani. In the 2017 look is updated with oversized , relaxed suit.

Body-con dressing with a mix of gloss, glamour and sex appeal.(Cindy Crawford) Gender is neutral and style is diverse with elements of punk , and new romantic.

Wet look- fabric have metal reflective feel- drenched look Night life -1980 nightlife with leopard prints-too much is never enough.

Fabrics-silk chiffons.

Colours Colours will be infused from the 1980 looks.

Black and plum will become main colours.

Jelly bean , electric magenta, bold blue and horizontal yellow.

This palette works for dressier and active wear looks.

Trend forecast S/S 2017

Edgelands Phase 2

Key points • Mix of urban grit and romantic folks • Relaxed feminine style • Vintage floral wallpaper inspired prints • Casual mixes of soft floral and lace patterns with strong tomboy silhouettes with boxy shirts and washed denim trousers.

• Urban folk • cotton, light chiffons

Colours Homespun feel with boohoo inspired colour pallets.

Encounter Culture Key points • • • • • • •

Exotic rainforest floral –maxi dresses Beach dressing partnering with evening wear Use of artefact from travelling the world Rainforest prints.

Rasta style Handmade tassels and trims Influences taken from 1940 pin- up girl.

Colours Ray of sunshine as the pallet sweeps from the sea to the beach. Sapphire red is introduced .

Pause Key points • • • •

Introduction of Cone silhouette Quality and comfort are a key.

Importance of head to toe dressing Satin , crushed velvet,cotton.-fabrics

Colours Cold white and grey provide a calming effect.

Champagne colour is providing a feeling of luxury.

Yellow colours lift the palette , by bringing lighter side to it.

http://atfashionforte.com http://www.rosie-fortescue.com/street-style-archive/

Rosie Fortescue for

For my branding task I have chosen brand H&M. H&M is a Swedish company , which has been very successful in the past years.

There are known as Fast Fashion company , which means that they have the products coming in every time there are new collections on a catwalk.

They are also known for their cooperation with famous designers as well as celebrities like Katy Perry or Kendal Jenner , and designers like Karl Lagerfeld or Versace.

Their mission statement is to deliver top fashion trends to their customers- which are mostly young women who are usually a students .

By analysing H&M products I have noticed that they tend to set prices low to attract their targeted customer, which are students and they do not have a high budget to spend on their clothes but they still want to look good , that’s why H&M are good with product concept which had been successfully establishes . Products might not be very expensive but that doesn’t mean that they are a bad quality items. Most of them are made from Jersey or Cotton.

They do have a Limited Collection items which are made from materials like leather or cashmere , these items are a bit more pricey , but we have guaranteed that they are a good quality stuff.

Their advertising strategy involves a big campaigns , either on internet , TV or on massive billboards – by doing that they attract publicity , and by use of celebrity endorsement they keep the company image as a high profile .

For my advertising I have used Rosie Fortescue as my main campaign point.

She also will be posting outfits with the pieces from the collection on her blog and her Instagram account with the #hmlimited tag. That will attract many people who follow .

Customers can be tagged on her profile by using #hmlimited. This will bring the brand closer to customer and the customer closer to a brand – its all about creating that special relationship with them , which they will be able to receive by purchasing this limited edition collection.

#hmlimited

For my branding by analysing H&M marketing and product mix I have decided to make a Limited Collection S/S17 , -my theme is Garden Party , and as my celebrity endorsement I have used Rosie Fortescue from popular TV show – Made in Chelsea .

Limited collection will be available online only , because by doing customer profile I have researched that most of H&M consumers spend weekly up to 50 hours online , by making this collection online only I am providing an easy access to all web browsing consumers, and by making it Limited I am providing them with the opportunity to have something trendy but limited at the same time , I am creating that special relationship with the costumer.

Theme- Garden Party – was an easy choice ,everyone like to have ,whether it is a barbeque , or a cocktail party during warm summer evening . I think that will attract all those fashionistas who always want to look good.

Choice of my celebrity was made by a research I have completed during my customer profile task.

Most of them chose Made of Chelsea as their favourite show , so by choosing one of the stars from the show I a providing shopping experience for fan of the show, they will be able to dress like their favourite celebrity , and feel like they are a part of something special.

She is famous for her fashion blog , on which she posts outfit ideas , and she uses loads of high street shops, and she also has an Instagram account ,and another style website.

I am not doing anything different to the things H&M already has done , its will still send the same message.

My collection is based on my concept board which is called Secret Garden Party . Main colours are green , bright pink, dark blue and pastels –pink , lavender .

Based on the S/S 17 trends forecast which shows us four different trends: • Digital Waves • Edgeland • Encounter Culture • Pause I have used Encounter Culture because I just think that the prints , fabrics and the colours are perfect for my theme.

Collection is build peace which can be worn to a glamorous cocktail party or just a simple summer party day or night time.

Prints from dressers work perfectly with the garden theme , same as green colours and dark blues.

Collection could be worn during day time / and night time , thanks to their style of dresses and jumpsuits which make a perfect combination for day to night time wear.

Prices of them items fit perfectly into budget of H&M customer – they do not cost over £40 , but they are a limited collection items which suggest to them that they are a high quality.



What overall did you feel that you learnt throughout unit 1?

I learn a lot about fashion history and about different fashion era , I found it very interesting , and I learnt a lot about different fashion eras .

By doing market research I learn about different links and fashion trends , and how the fashion form back a days , comes back in todays trends.

I found it fascinating how fashion changed thorough they years and what has affected it and what trends and pieces of clothing we can see in high street shops.

Bibliography

British Vogue. (2016). British Vogue. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/?international [Accessed 12 Oct. 2016].

Fashiongear.fibre2fashion.com. (2016). New Look Brand History,New Look Clothing History,New Look Boots History,New Look Footwear History. [online] Available at: http://fashiongear.fibre2fashion.com/brandstory/newlook/history.asp [Accessed 12 Oct. 2016].

Rosie Fortescue. (2016). Rosie Fortescue's Style Blog - At Fashion Forte. [online] Available at: http://atfashionforte.com/ [Accessed 12 Oct. 2016].

Cumming, V., Cunnington, C., Cunnington, P., Beard, C. and Cunnington, C. (2010). The dictionary of fashion history.

Oxford: Berg.

H&M. (2016). Fashion and quality clothing at the best price. [online] Available at: http://www2.hm.com/en_gb/index.html [Accessed 12 Oct. 2016].

Bone, E., Bursi, S. and Andreasson, E. (2015). 1960tal. GoĚˆteborg: Tukan.