i-D MAGAZINE

THE DREAMS AND ASPIRATIONS ISSUE NO. 315

i-DEAS,FASHION,MUSIC,PEOPLE

dream big MANUELA SANCHEZ PHOTOGRAPHY VERONICA IBRAHIM

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insi-De the dream big issue it’s never too late to start dreaming

feature + fashion People think that only kids have the right to dream. The fact is, anyone can dream and actually everyone should dream. It helps people express their goals and fantansies, which is very psychologically and emotionally healthy. It helps incentivate our creativity and push us to pursue our ambitions and reason of existence.

For this issue, our versatile cover personality of the season 19

MANUELA SANCHEZ photography Veronica Ibrahim 30 WHEN I GROW UP

starring Lean Evans, Xander Bevilacqua, Cameron Royal Chase, Cristina Londoño and Gwen Evans photography Francisco Betancourt art director, styling and make up Mericia Ramirez 43 SMART FABRIC: A FAST-GROWING TREND text Qiaoning Gu photography Mark Weaver 44 THE CITY BY STORM starring Nick Sturdevant, Kendall Jackson, Terry Ck Aahn and Bruno Sicilia photography Kyle Adams art director and styling Mericia Ramirez

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text Isabella Costa starring Allie Edwards, TJ Snider and Andrew

Repak photography Veronica Ibrahim and Andrea Di Lello makeup artist Lauren Pitcairn Miro

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83 MAKEUP - CRUELTY FREE text fashion editor Fabiola

collection from fashion design student KIKI LI starring Alex Jones, Niambi Nelson and Tianyi Chen photography

Veronica Ibrahim and Andrea Di Lello makeup Lauren Pitcairn 114 THE SLEEPER starring Catherine Atkinson photography Shayna Colvin makeup Mericia Ramirez styling Isabella Costa and Mericia Rmirez, i-D also has accessory design student 126 THE BAD GIRL featuring ANDREE KONG accessory collection starring Hou Yin and Andree Kong text Cassondra Morrison photography Ali Competiello, styling by Oudulin Chen art director Oudulin Chen and Qiaoning Gu.

146 ATENZIONE MILANO, MILITARY HITS THE RUNWAYS text fashion editor Mericia Ramirez

eye 58 “BE YOURSELF, EVERYONE IS ALREADY TAKEN” text and photography Mericia Ramirez

art director and styling Mericia Ramirez 108

BECOMING SAFE LEE text Isabella Costa ID went all the way to Atlanta to cover Daniel Lismore´s

first US solo exhibition 148 iCON

JEAN-PIERRE VILLAFAÑE text Isabella Costa photography courtesy of Jean Pierre Villafañe

life Here we flick through the work of industrial design and accessory design student 66 inspiration, passion for her work and perspective about success text Mericia Ramirez photography Nguyen Phi Dieu Hang

MADELEINE RIANDE where she talks with ID about her work

96 MID-NOON TIME, TAKE A NAP starring Thu Anh Ho

136 TAKE A BREATHE starring Tianyi Wang photography Yong Chen

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the dream big issue. 341 editor-in-chief Mericia Ramirez

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creative director Oudulin Chen

new north place,

fashion directors Mericia Ramirez and Oudulin Chen managing director Isabella Costa fashion editors Fabiola Miro, Isabella Costa,

Qiaoning Gu and Mericia Ramirez

london, EC2A 4JA tel +44(0) 207 749 7999 production@i-d.co

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production manager Fabiola Miro

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cast director Mericia Ramirez, Qiaoning Gu, Oudulin Chen

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fashion assistant Isabella Costa designers Kiki Li, Emily Seifert, Andree Kong and Dani Ho contributor editor Qiaoning Gu contributors Dani Ho, Sean Wang, Cassondra Morrison, Nguyen Phi Dieu Hang

fashion directors Mericia Ramirez and Oudulin Chen

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contributors

Dani Ton Fashion Designer and intern at WEPHOBIA. She contributed in this “dream big” issue by sharing her “Mid-noon time” collection for i-D´s “mid noon time, take a nap” photo shoot in Vietnam thuyanhton.wix.com/home

Cassondra Morrison Jewelry design grad student at SCAD Savannah Campus. She contributed with i-D sharing as guest fashion editor, a close overlook article about Andree Kong work and her lastest collection. editor “the bad girl” facebook.com/cassondrajustine

Nguyen Phi Dieu Hang Vietnamese photographer who worked close with fashion Designer Dani Ton contributing with photography material for the “mid noon time, take a nap” photoshoot in Vietnam

Sean Wang Painter, grad student at SCAD Savannah Campus. He contributed with i-D sharing his work and studio as the setting of “when I grow up” photoshoot www.shengwangart.com

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spring 2016 the dreams and aspirations issue

“I would never see myself doing anything else.”

MANUELA SANCHEZ

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manuela sanchez TEXT FABIOLA MIRO PHOTOGRAPHY VICTORIA IBRAHIM AND ANDREA DI LELLO

Makeup by Julia Munera using Urban Decay Cosmetics. Photography assistance Samuel Gonzalez, Andrea Di Lello, Ana Ospina Production Isabella Costa, Oudulin Chen, Qiaoning Gu, Fabiola Miro, Mericia Ramirez

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IT OPENED MY EYES AND MADE ME REALIZE THAT IF I’M EVER PUT IN THAT HARD SITUATION I WILL ALWAYS HAVE FIBERS, THAT WILL BE THE ONE THING THAT I’M SURE WILL ALWAYS BE A PART OF MY LIFE. IT WILL NEVER GET OLD FOR ME

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28 manuela sanchez Manuela Sanchez was born on March 19, 1994 in Bogota, Colombia. Daughter of Camilo Sanchez and Monica Penaranda. Camilo owns a graphic design business that also focuses on digital printing. She has one older sister, Andrea, she’s getting her Business and Marketing degree in Bogota. She graduated from El Colegio Nueva Granada, also known as the American School of Bogota. She is now a Senior at the Savannah College of Art and Design, studying Fibers with a minor in Accessory Design. However, that was not her plan initially. Manuela graduated from High School in 2012 and took a Fashion Design course back home in Bogota, Colombia.“I couldn’t stand it. Sewing was very hard for me because of how precise it has to be.”

She planned to attend SCAD that August, and was enrolled as a Fashion Design major. She talked to a friend who was already a SCAD student about her problem and disliking Fashion Design, and showed him the work she had done all through high school. It was pretty obvious she had a talent! Just by looking at her work, which included crochet and knitted handbags and accessories, he suggested taking Fiber courses. “I didn’t even know that Fibers was a career!” She went ahead and took an Introduction to Fibers course.

She fell in love with it instantly. She decided to tell her parents when she went back home for winter break. She was nervous because it is a career that very little people are aware of. She was shocked to find out that her mother had actually studied this. Manuela had always been exposed to knitting and and sewing since a very young age because of her mother but thought it was just one of her hobbies.

“My parents have always been incredibly supportive. My mom was so happy and amazed that she immediately said go for it!”

Monica, Manuela’s mother, owned a loom in Colombia. TV reporters and models from Colombia would go to her when they needed curtains and other textiles. She sold the loom because she never imagined her daughters sharing that same passion with her. Monica still enjoys knitting and sewing, so much that she made a club with her friends and they get together once a week and plans yearly trips around the world to get new fabrics. The thing she enjoys making the most is quilts. Manuela has always admired her mom, so having one more thing to bond about was very exciting for her. Since then they have worked together in several projects, combining their talents and learning from each other.

However, their styles when it comes to this are completely different.

“My mother’s style is very traditional even though she incorporates new materials every chance she gets. My style is more fashion forward, before I make a new textile I always think on what handbag or clutch it would look good on first.”

Do you ever think about shoes?

“I am taking my first shoe making class this quarter and it has been very challenging for me.”

Why is that? You have such a strong passion when it comes to accessories.

“Shoe making is different, the process is very rigid and I can’t work with that. I like breaking the rules and having fun… that’s not possible when making shoes.”

Manuela learned a lot about handbag techniques when she took sewing tech here at SCAD. That class made everything click for her, from the construction to the sewing. She likes making textiles that include weaving, sewing, knitting, beading but she also likes using water colors in order to create different effects and patterns on her fabrics. She dislikes using Photoshop or Illustrator to create patterns because she feels like that process is not personal at all, so she gets bored.

“The only time I have enjoyed using Photoshop to create a pattern is when I had to take a CAD class and it was a Collaborative Learning Center project. The class was taught by a man who recently left Polo Ralph Lauren and decided to open his own swimwear company. ”How does the SCAD Collaborative Learning Center program?

“So basically someone who has succeeded in the professional world comes in at least once a week to show you and teach you what they have learned.”

That’s a chance that not many people get.

“Yeah, each one of us drew 15 different patterns, he picked one and we then played around with the colors and the placements on Photoshop.”

What pattern did you end up with?

“I have a Yorkshire Terrier named Nicolas back home, we call him Nico. He was actually the inspiration behind my pattern. I was able to make a pair of pajama pants and the I named them Nico in the Spring Time.”

Manuela has had the opportunity of interning in many different places. The first internship she did was at a company in Bogota in 2013. The company was actually linked to an interior design firm. So she combined her fiber background in order to create amazing textiles to furnish the furniture the company sold. At this point Manuela decided to declare an accessory design minor. Ever since Manuela got to SCAD she planned in returning to Colombia as soon as she graduated and possibly opening her own business.

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29 "Fibers is something that will grow with me as I grow old. I can picture myself being and old lady and knitting fun and colorful sweaters for my daughters, sons and grandchildren."

MANUELA SANCHEZ

This changed when she started talking to her friends about the internships and opportunities that the United States had. They finally convinced her and made her apply for an internship in New York City for Ralph Lauren. “I didn’t see myself working for Ralph Lauren, that’s not my style at all. But I applied and I got in. It’s the most incredible experience I’ve had so far. It was an amazing opportunity working for such a large and recognized company.”

This internship was the push she needed to finally decide to get an Optional Practical Training (OPT) Visa and apply to get a formal job in the US. Her dream would be to work for Anthropologie but she’s still very undecided in what she would want to specialize in. There are so many possibilities when it comes to Fibers that she is not sure if she just wants to focus on beading and embroidery, knit wear, weaving but she wants a job that involves a lot of crafts, that’s really hands on. “It’s hard to study just fibers because, okay you have the fabric, but what do you place it on? My ideal job would be something that has to do with product design but my main focus would be making the material. I want my work to be significant.”

Coming from such a rich and culturally diverse country like Colombia, it is a constant source of inspiration for her. Manuela’s loves her Colombia is so much that you can see this strong influence in all of her work, from the color palettes to the designs and the stories She is mesmerized by the beautiful landscapes that suround her regularly. Not only are the landscapes beautiful but they also have an incredible amount of natural resources. “Maybe it’s because I’m far away from my country, that I keep going back to it; but that’s definitely my main inspiration. It’s hard to try to put my culture’s richness into words because it doesn’t do it justice.” Colombia is not only known for it’s good weather and beautiful beaches. It was also home for drug dealers like Pablo Escobar, Manuela likes incorporating this into the themes of her work. She feels like this is a way of giving back to her country that has given her so much. “I have always felt that my portfolio is a tribute to Colombia!”

“My teachers always tell me to use less colors, but it’s very hard for me because colors for me are everything. I mostly only use warm colors in my work, those are my favorite.” Her most recent work was a printed pattern that she first did with aquarella on paper. The patterns Manuela drew ressembled a lot of prints seen in Colombian fabrics. She included a variety of oranges, reds and yellows. This piece was actually used for a Fiber’s exposition at the Svannah College of Art and Design this February.

Manuela has participated in every fiber show SCAD has had since she began in 2012. She has also paid close attention to all of the events that SCAD fiber events.

Manuela’s grandmother moved in with them after her husband passed away. She has had a very hard life; two of her children passed away and now she really has nothing to look forward for anymore. Watching her grow old is something that has been very hard on Manuela. “It opened my eyes and made me realize that if I’m ever put in that hard situation I will always have Fibers, that will be the one thing that I’m sure will always be a part of my life. It will never get old for me!” Manuela’s love for fibers only gets bigger with every day that passes and her work is exemplary. She definitely has a bright future ahead of her and is somebody you should keep an open eye for.

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WHEN I GROW UP PHOTOGRAPHER FRANCISCO BETANCOURT MAKEUP AND STYLING MERICIA RAMIREZ PRODUCTION ASSISTANTS FABIOLA MIRO AND ISABELLA COSTA

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Leah Evans: “I wanna be a photographer.”

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Xander Bevilacqua: “I wanna be a teacher.”

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35 Gwen Evans: “I wanna be a painter.”

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Cameron Royal Chase: “I wanna be an actor.”

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38 Cristina Londoño: “I wanna be a ballerina.”

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Smart Fabric: A Fast - Growing Trend Smart Fabric is not just a leading trend in the fashion industry influencing our lifestyles and environment.

Smart Fabric is developed in the US with new technologies to provide added value to the wearer. The “Smart Fabric” innovation is applied in multiple areas, such as athletes, patients, soldiers, first responders and everyday consumers in recent years. This new high-tech product continues to become a top trend in 2016 under US government support.

According to a report from the U.S Commerce Department, they will partner with the Industrial Fabric Association International (IFAI) to host the first-ever Smart Fabric Summit on April 11, 2016 in Washington. The Summit will provide a platform to public and private sector leaders in technology, apparel, and textiles for better collaboration and communication.

The forecasting data released from Tactic LLC research shows that the smart fabric industry will continue to make technological advances and expand into new untapped markets in the upcoming years, which is projected to grow from a base of $ 17.2 million in 2013 to approximately $600 million by 2020 in the world market. There are two different categories of Smart Fabric: Aesthetic and Performance. The Aesthetic function is usually applied in fashion shows or performing arts: for example, the fabric lights up and can also change color. The Performance Enhancing fabric is best applied to the athletic, extreme sports and military industries. These are fabrics that can help improve athletic performance through regulating body temperature, reduced wind resistance and controlled muscle vibration. The best example is Nike, who introduced AeroReact smart fabric technology in September, 2015. This technology was designed for body temperature regulation, resulting in a bi-component yarn that opens its structure when it senses moisture vapor to maximize breathability. In the upcoming years, the Performance Enhancing fabrics would also extend to the health and beauty industry, which range from drug-realizing medical textiles, to fabric with moisturizing properties, perfume and anti-aging properties.

All in all, smart fabrics innovation has a great developing space under government support. In the upcoming years, smart fabric innovation will be extended into new areas, specially in the health and beauty industries.

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“TO CONQUER SOMETHING OR SOMEONE IN A FURY.”

the city by stor m PHOTOGRAPHY KYLE ADAMS

Photography assistance Fabiola Miro, Mericia Ramirez, Qiaoning Gu, Oudulin Chen Models Nick Sturdevant, Kendall Jackson, Bruno Sicilia, Terry Ck Aahn

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languages. What’s your dream when you were child? I wanted to be a scientist but got bored with the subject. I’ve been dreaming to become a designer since 14. I loved drawing clothes, lots of shirts and collars for some reason. How do you usually get your inspiration for your collection? It’s different every time, sometimes I go to library to just pick a book and go on from there, or scraping random images from magazines and pin them on the wall, deconstructing an existing garment, etc. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t. I guess there are never right or wrong answers for it. But geometries, architecture and Japanese kimono from Heian period are the main inspirational element. What’s the biggest obstacle you have during college? Without a single doubt, I’d say time management. What are you planning to do after graduation? As for now, I’m moving to New York to build up my experience. I’m very interested in patternmaking as well, so as for future, I’m planning to do further study of it in France.

Terry Chi Kyun Ahn, fashion design student, 22 Where are you from? I was born in Korea, then moved to China at 11 and stayed 10 years in Shanghai, so I speak three

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Sanglim Lee, fashion design student, 23 Korean What’s your dream when you were child? I do not have exact dream, but I was playing piano for 7 years since I was 6 years old. I loved playing when I was young. How and when did you decide to be a fashion designer? Since middle School.This is because I loved styling and Vintage stuff. How do you usually get your inspiration for your collection? Basically everything arounds me. What’s the biggest obstacle you have during college? Time limitation. I am a kind of slow worker and I do not like to do something very speedy because being so fast is sometimes interrupted me to think more deeply. I think most of people feel the same haha. What is your collection for CDFA competition about? My inspiration is Serengeti. At that time I love to see the documentary about animal’s life. The big part of collection is animal’s print based on their skins. I want to make prints which seem young because my customer are teens and twenties, and most of animal prints that I used was old and boring. What are you planning to do after graduation? I want to create my own label and fashion house.

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66 believing self believing in in your yourself Senior student Madeleine Riande talks about her work inspiration, her passion for Industrial Design/Accessory Design and her perspective about failure vs. real success

Madeleine believes art and design go hand in hand, especially when developing a new piece. She considers necessary for a designer not only to know its role - but also to be submer ged and inspired by art because at the end of the day what makes the design stand out is it being a work of art. “I consider myself an artist, not just a designer, I believe that is what gives me the freedom to be able to experiment and create the thing that never thought I would. That´s pretty much my philosophy, and I understand each designer is unique and has their personal view toward their work”. Being and industrial design student as well as having a background in accessories, is a strong factor Madeline has in her favor. She explains to ID that she finds inspiration in both fields and enjoys working with mix media and taking a concept from industrial design into her accessory designs and the other way around. Even though Madeleine’s statement reflects the versatility of this young designer, there is an evident juxtaposition between these two branches of her work.

Madeleine considers Savannah, GA the perfect place to start an undergraduate education. “It’s a relaxing place that makes you feel comfortable with Art. Surely the Savannah College of Art and Design is a big part of this artistic environment. It´s an awesome school and has a great program for what I do, but more than anything it’s great to see everyone is the same mood as idealists designers, and creators.” The real story about how she ended up choosing industrial design as her major and then pursue a minor in accessories, starts from the very basic desire to create something physically. The question was, what to create? Then, the concept of industrial design, by being the architecture of an object, finally motivated her to get into this field; the industrial design gives you the freedom to build whatever you want, from a shoe to a piece of furniture. Of course, Madelaine has a significant interest in accessories, especially due to the extensive use of material such as leather, fur, etc. She is a big fan of leather; she loves smelling and feeling the leather, the different types of skins that can be used to create beautiful pieces. It is an excellent balance since this particular background gives the designer a better eye for detail and craftsmanship as well as that visionary thinking for design and material innovation.

Time management sometimes becomes a problem, usually no matter what career you study, finding a balance between time for yourself and work is challenging. But Madeleine, even though she admits that this sometimes can be a problem, never complains about work. “Doing more what you do makes you realize how much you love it, even when you’re working it doesn’t feel like working because you are actually doing what you love.” Sculpting used to be her break activity; this was before the school closed the sculpting department in the Savannah Campus. She could escape from the strict measures of design and just enjoy sculpting different forms and expressions, especially her favorite subject, based in the concept of “thinking with the heart.” Her brain designs, done with all kind of materials, from clay to wood and warm glass, are described as an emotional analogy of how she feels designing and creating art functions, a combination of thinking and feeling.

When touching the topic about plans after graduation, she confessed she would love to work for a startup company because she prefers to work with small groups of people, is easier for her to learn from a supervisor and a team when you are working close to them. She aims to find something in Europe; she feels her personality and style fits more with the European culture, possibly somewhere in Germany. Madeleine is very moved by both accessories and industrial design. She would work in any of this two industries as long as she loves what she does. She confesses that what she loves the most about Industrial Design is the design of furniture which could take her to the home and furniture industry. In terms of accessories; handbags and leather goods are her passions, and now she is discovering an interest in footwear. She has demonstrated that she has a talent for any of these fields by getting recognition for her work both in accessories and industrial design. Just last November one of her best handbags done by veg tan leather, violet wood, and silver fox fur was selected by the department for public exposition. Also her latest piece, a leather stool, was chosen as part of the International Design Awards nominations. It is a big accomplish for her “sometimes artist struggle, sometimes you may think that you are not good enough, I mean you can´t be perfect all the time, but is stuff like this that makes you realize that , shit! you are in the right place, you are at the right moment. Things just fit in when they have to fit in and thats the beautiful about art”. Besides, Madeleine highlights the importan ce of believing in yourself, “because, if you don’t believe in yourself, no one, no one else will.” And it is ok if you step into failure, not everything you do is going to be an awesome piece of art. She mentions that she sees failure as a learning process that helps you realize what your strengths and weaknesses are to help you improve your work. In the end, success is every step in your life that brings you more knowledge, things that make you grow as a person and know who you are. “Getting to know about yourself, and what you love, more, more and more, is what being successful in life is all about.”

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MODEL ALLIE EDWARDS MODEL WEARING DESIGNER EMILY SEIFERT’S COLLECTION MAKEUP ARTIST LAUREN LEIGH PITCAIRN PHOTOGRAPHER VERONICA IBRAHIM

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MODEL ANDREW REPAK MODEL WEARING DESIGNER EMILY SEIFERT’S COLLECTION PHOTOGRAPHER VERONICA IBRAHIM

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MODEL TJ SNIDER MODEL WEARING DESIGNER EMILY SEIFERT’S COLLECTION PHOTOGRAPHER VERONICA IBRAHIM

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MODEL ANDREW REPAK MODEL WEARING DESIGNER EMILY SEIFERT’S COLLECTION PHOTOGRAPHER VERONICA IBRAHIM

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80 emily seifert “Inspiration comes in so many forms it’s hard to list one word answers.”

Emily Seifert is a fashion designer who recently graduated from the Savannah College of Art and Design. In this interview she talks about her senior collection, which is part of the next editorial in this issue. How would you describe your

collection? I read House of Leaves by Mark Danielewski the summer before senior year and that book was the cornerstone in building my collection. The plot line is almost as difficult to explain as it is to read. There are multiple narratives going on at once, there are so many layers and parts to uncover. All of my prints derived from sketches and stories I wrote while reading the book. The collection is my way of organizing personal narrative threads into a comprehensive thesis, which is similar to what Johnny was doing when he found Zampano’s trunk… and to understand that you’ll have to read the book; or at least google it. What

is

your

main

source

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inspiration? I love literature, so that’s definitely something I pull from. Otherwise I think inspiration comes in so many forms it’s hard to list one word answers. It’s not like I go outside and look at a tree and then make a collection. It’s very process based and it involves multiple facets. Story lines, experiences, memories, images from magazines, music, and basically every creative form you can think of is involved when I’m working on a project. Which were your greatest challenges while working on this collection? There were so many challenges. Just finding time to eat and sleep and be a normal person. I was so obsessed with this body of work for so long it was hard to separate myself from it. I didn’t have much of a life outside of Eckburg. Balancing life was the biggest challenge and making sure the collection was something I was really proud of. I felt like I had one shot and I couldn’t blow it. It was a lot of pressure. What were the outcomes after participating in the SCAD fashion show? I could breathe again. Ha. It was really rewarding. Being a part of the show was a goal I had for a long time and it was really great to accomplish that. What comes next? That’s a good question. After graduation I went to New York and worked as a Freelance Menswear Designer for J.Crew. I went up there on a one way and lived on friend’s couches and living rooms for months. I did that for about 7 months and now I’m working on a collection for Charleston Fashion Week. I’ve been going nonstop for so long, so what’s next is a vacation. Hopefully. And after that I’m not sure. I always make plans yet still nothing ever goes as planned so I’m winging it. @emilyseifturnt

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makeup - cruelty free ID magazine is bringing good news, products tested on animals may soon be a thing of the past.

According to a recent report conducted by PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) more than 250 cosmetic brands still use animal testing for their products. It is estimated by the Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals that this year over 27,000 animals will be used for this practice. We are in the 21st century, it is sad that established companies like Guerlain, L’Occitane and MAC cosmetics don’t use all of the alternative options they have to test their products. I think it’s simple if you don’t want blood on your hands why should you put it on your face?

Some of the most common ways of torture include acute toxicity tests, eye- and skin- irritation/ corrosion tests and product tests. During the acute toxicity tests animals are forcefed and are bathed in extremely high doses of chemicals, this is to determine the consequences of an exposure to a chemical, the product. It has never been scientifically validated that their results are predictive of chemical effects on humans.

The corrosion tests are primarily conducted on rabbits; substances are poured into their eyes or put on their skin to prove the toxicity. Rabbit’s eyes tend to have stronger reactions to chemicals than human’s eyes. The product tests are not required by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration; they encourage you to test the most appropriate manner for sustaining the safety of their products. The Consumer Product Safety Commission only require companies to label their products with the hazards associated with those chemicals.

Science and technology are so advanced that animal testing could be completely avoided. However, many countries still are not just given the option buy required by the law to test on animals. The biggest problem lies in China, their cosmetic industry is the third-largest market in the world. They are expected to grow 8 percent each year until 2017, and are currently worth $26 billion a year. Animal testing is required by the law when it comes to imported products. This means that even brands that take pride in being cruelty free are tested on animals before they are allowed to be on the market.

“Cosmetics companies, including Estée Lauder and Clarins, have policies on their websites stating they do not test on animals anywhere in the world — except when required by law. Yet, these companies market their products in China where animals will die for any eye shadow or a lipstick,” says Mimi Bekhechi, UK director of PETA. When it comes to products made domestically only products; like perms, deodorants, hair dyes and sunscreens are required by the law to be animal tested. British scientists have paired with Chinese scientists in order to research alternative methods in order to replace the ones they currently practice.

Today England is the most cruelty-free country. It is because of this that China’s president Xi Jinping made an agreement with Prime Minister, David Cameron. Japan’s market is not as big as China’s however it is a much harder market. Their laws do not require neither do they ban animal testing. Many scientists believe that their culture is actually to blame.

On a recent interview Manfield quoted, “That’s the way it’s always been done. Animal tests are familiar, even if they’re flawed.”

The future is promising though, there is an apparent trend surging and each time more and more companies are joining this cause. According to Palmer “Nobody wants to be known as the last major cosmetics company that still thought it necessary to cause animal suffering,” he adds. “Ultimately, we expect it to become an antiquated notion that no serious company will pursue.”

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MODEL NIAMBI NELSON MODEL WEARING DESIGNER KIKI LI’S COLLECTION MAKEUP ARTIST LAUREN LEIGH PITCAIRN PHOTOGRAPHER VERONICA IBRAHIM

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MODEL TIANYI WANG MODEL WEARING DESIGNER KIKI LI’S COLLECTION MAKEUP ARTIST LAUREN LEIGH PITCAIRN PHOTOGRAPHER VERONICA IBRAHIM

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MODEL ALEXANDRIA JONES MODEL WEARING DESIGNER KIKI LI’S COLLECTION MAKEUP ARTIST LAUREN LEIGH PITCAIRN PHOTOGRAPHER VERONICA IBRAHIM

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MODEL NIAMBI NELSON MODEL WEARING DESIGNER KIKI LI’S COLLECTION MAKEUP ARTIST LAUREN LEIGH PITCAIRN PHOTOGRAPHER VERONICA IBRAHIM

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mid-noon time, take a nap Taking a nap during the mid-noon time is one of Vietnams’ culture. This age-old custom retains, which reminds a feeling of silence and returning back to the nature self. A series of photos creates a scene of peaceful and relaxed base on Vietnam by using mixed warm and cool colors and soften silk material.

Photographer Nguyen Phi Dieu Hang, Model and makeup by Thu Anh Ho, Illustration on dress by Nghia D Quach, Design and concept by Doni Ton

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108 becoming safe lee Tommy May talks about the story behind Safe Lee and his passions: painting and photography.

Tommy May, better known as Safe Lee, is a painter and co-owner of the Lee O’Neil Gallery. He is also a photography student at the Savannah College of Art and Design. Ever since he started exploring with acrylics and developed his own style, he has never stopped evolving.

If he is not working on a new series, he is incorporating his art in fashion or combining it with photography.

Tommy’s curiosity for painting first became evident when he was a college freshman. Over the years, he became increasingly interested in it and as a consequence of that, his photographic work started fading a little into the background. Painting just became more interesting to him. “I was seeing this symbols and I wanted to create work with that, and I obviously couldn’t do that with photography.” As a result of this, he started getting involved and experimenting more with painting. He decided to take time off from school to pursue a career more focused on painting. In addition to having already found his personal style as an artist, he got to a point where he was already showing and selling his artwork without necessarily delving into painting as a major even though everyone in his entourage, including his parents, told him to switch majors. “I had already figured out how I wanted to paint. I think it’s great for people to go learn how to paint but for me it wasn’t the right thing. ”The symbols on his paintings are supposed to reflect a child’s point of view. To go back to basics and put things in perspective. “You know, when you are a kid you draw a house and it’s supposed to be comforting, but I always in paintings put the window outside the house, so it’s kind of this idea of being thinking that the house is safe but if there’s no windows, how do you know what is out there? How do you know what is different? So it’s this idea of someone getting stuck in a situation when there is also stuff out there that you don’t know about, and you cannot see it because there are no windows.”

Safe Lee is currently working on his longest series of paintings. He had a showing in his gallery last fall called “100 Suns”. He got really interested in that particular symbol so the series consisted of a hundred 36” x 36” suns in addition to a lot of small ones, which he would do ten at a time. He is focusing on breaking down the symbols he has previously used in other paintings. He started with the sun symbol and now he has moved on to the house that appears in a lot of his work. Another style that can be seen in his earlier paintings is one that combines text and imagery, with a little bit of pop art mixed in there. He describes that series as containing historical references as well as references to the natural course of life: death, dreams, lost opportunities, combined to tell a story as a whole. His style is really centered around what he feels when he wakes up the day he is doing a particular painting. He likes to act on raw emotion, rather than particular situations. This results in a lot of random paintings, not necessarily following the same path. That’s all that some of his paintings are: just ideas for the future.

TEXT ISABELLA COSTA PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF TOMMY MAY 108 i-D

109 “Because my work is so vibrant and bright, people sometimes say that I’m shy or quiet, but if you really get to know me, you know that I’m this. This is who I am; a really bright, vibrant kind of guy.”

TOMMY MAY

“Fashion is kind of my final thing. I really want to do something like fashion with one of these people I’ve been talking. It would be an incredible thing.”

Even though Lee’s artwork is mainly projected via canvas, he has previously switched from canvas to fashion throughout his painting career. He has painted on jeans, leather bags, raincoats, and the list goes on. He has collaborated with designers such as Victor + Alexander with whom he created a limited collection in which he painted on leather bags. For the past few years, he has also been talking to recognized shoe designers such as Marc Fisher and Ruthie Davis about potential collaborations in the future.

“It’s so interesting to see, like the other day, I was driving down Broughton Street and someone was wearing a pair of my jeans and I was like what? It’s just such a weird thing!”

When he started painting, he was doing all that photography work and for some reason, wanted to be anonymous. “But it has turned out that I’m not really anonymous!” he says.

“I wanted to be more like a façade, like the Lee was different than me in my kitchen making salad for dinner. It was almost like when I come up here to my studio I turn into a different person, I create all this work and because my work is so vibrant and bright, people sometimes say that I’m shy or quiet, but if you really get to know me, you know that I’m this. This is who I am; a really bright, vibrant kind of guy.” Growing up in Alexandria, Virginia, his mom, who used to be an art consultant, had her first place on Lee Street and his dad, was born on the same street, so he chose this to be part of his identity. “Safe” was the name of a group of friends he had in high school. They were all artists who did not really fit into that kind of mold that existed in their school. “We were all kind of funky people but cool you know? We became really good friends, and were passionate about the work we were doing in our fields.” Safe is also a British slang word that means “cool”. “Even though no one though we were cool, we knew we were cool.”

Then he moved to Savannah and found himself surrounded by the same kind of creative and artistic people who were eager to collaborate and explore all the possibilities that the different art fields had to offer. This atmosphere greatly influenced the development of his work.

Safe Lee, along with his girlfriend, Gwen O’Neil, who also happens to be a photography-painting hybrid, opened the Lee O’Neil Gallery in Savannah. In a random conversation about the future, they were talking about the idea of opening an art gallery and by the time the conversation had ended, they already had an established business plan and knew a bunch of artists they wanted to show. The gallery is located in the up and coming art district in Savannah. For now, the plan is to see how this place evolves in the next few years. If it doesn’t fit their vision, they would probably move to Los Angeles or New York and set up a studio.

“I paint on everything I can find, its funny.” As an artist, Safe Lee is very mixed media driven and so creatively innovative when it comes to his work. He projects his work on anything he can draw inspiration from: mirrors, furniture, trash bins, walls, amongst others. Also, Lee and Gwen often combine different mediums such as painting and photography to create pieces that are about combining reality with abstract ideas. His style is very messy, he says, whereas Gwen’s is more on the subtle side.

“Everyone’s been asking us to do stuff and we’re like, we’re not that cool.” – and that’s what makes them even cooler.

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BOLTON SAFE LEE 72’’ X 84” ACRYLIC ON CANVAS

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PHOTOGRAPHER SHAYNA COLVIN STYLIST AND MAKEUP MERICIA RAMIREZ MODEL CATHERINE ATKINSON

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“At midnight, in the month of June, I stand beneath the mystic moon.

An opiate vapor, dewy, dim, Exhales from out her golden rim...�

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“So fitfully—so fearfully— Above the closed and fringéd lid ’Neath which thy slumb’ring soul lies hid, That, o’er the floor and down the wall, Like ghosts the shadows rise and fall!...”

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“Some sepulchre, remote, alone, Against whose portals she hath thrown, In childhood, many an idle stone— Some tomb from out whose sounding door She ne’er shall force an echo more, Thrilling to think, poor child of sin!

It was the dead who groaned within”

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the bag girl TEXT CASSONDRA MORRISON PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF ANDREE HAU YIN KONG

Andree Hau Yin Kong has been attached to handbags since the age of four - no matter the circumstances, even when riding her bike, she managed to have a handbag

rst love - handbags. Through the intricate detailing in her handbags it is clear to see that each thread is sewn with much care and intention. The thought, time and design that is put into each piece is apparent when viewing her work. She feels that it is essential to have a “hand touch” when making and believes the process of creating the piece and the time that goes into it is what makes each piece so exceptional. “I always love to work with raw materials. It creates an intimacy between the wearer and the bag. It is almost as if the bag is alive.” The

uence of the preciousness of jewelry has relayed into her handbag design. Carefully choosing each material

relating to its concept is part of a very thought out process for Andree. Selecting the precise leather for “Be Such a Cow” so that the leather can be reversed for the ears as well as strategically placing each stud is a perfect example of her planning in action making the product come to life. Coming from a multicultural background with her mother from Korea and her father from Hong Kong has encouraged her to have an open mind when it comes to inspiration. Her father worked in the textile industry and

r even a walk down the block. “Wherever it comes from, it takes me to where I need to go and places I didn’t even know I needed to go.”

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MODEL AND BAG DESIGNER ANDREE KONG MAKEUP ARTIST HEEJUN HWANG AND OUDULIN CHEN STYLIST OUDULIN CHEN PHOTOGRAPHER ALI COMPETIELLO

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take a breath

Photographer Yong Chen + Model Tianyi Wang + Photo editing Qiaoning Gu and Oudulin Chen+ Makeup artist from Belk using Chanel and Lancome Cosmetics + Stylist Oudulin Chen. Location Tybee Island.

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146 Here it comes, Military hits the runways!

ID’s fashion editor Mericia Ramirez makes an exciting recap on the strong take on Military style over Menswear autumn season finale in Milan, Italy.

The highly expected Autumn/Winter 2016 menswear collections just hit the runways of European fashion epicenters.

The level of innovation and creativity was highly noticed and well received by the industry. Prestigious and emerging designers, not only brought newness into their collections but also familiar trends that from time to time reclaim their place in fashion seasons. The protagonist of this week was the all-time acclaimed city of Milan, Italy was the menswear Fall season made its last stop (saving the best for last), personalities in the industry as well as the Alta Socialità were witnesses of a clear reference to the military style of men’s clothing. Italian Designers like Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Rodolfo Paglialunga, and American designer Thom Browne, brought this past weekend highly relevant silhouettes and patterns from the iconic military trend. All these three collections showed exciting and highly diversity of expression of this style each one giving the assembly uniqueness and something to talk about. As witnessed, some designers preferred a greater take on in the silhouettes and construction details and others in the color palettes and prints.

Dell´Aqua´s interesting proposal of military flair for this season reflected the great detail of military silhouettes like most noticeable features in his collection, outer oversized breast pockets, boxy top pieces, Parka and field jackets. Also, Alessandro successfully combined several shades of the khaki giving the collection uniqueness within a sense of unity.

Additionally, this collection expresses a wide variation of fabric selections by which the designer subtly accentuates juxtaposition between a gentle side and balance with the toughness of the military silhouettes. Dell´Aqua desired this collection to be an expression of a kinder, softer masculinity.

But Alessandro Dell´Aqua was not the only Italian designer drowned by the martial aesthetic. As well as the previous design house, Jill Sander made a similar approach to the military for the autumn menswear collection 2016. The label´s creative director Rodolfo Paglialunga took over military and transformed it into simple forms and designs. This approach was strongly present over strong boxy silhouettes in outer wear pieces such as jackets and the bumper sweaters. The aviator jumpsuit, which was a big hit in this collection, and boxy waist pants were significant elements in this collection.

The Harness straps over voluminous coats and funnels neck sweaters brought the assemblages back to the war years, especially because of its great resemblance to the German army of 1930´s. This collection was more than exciting to watch and might be probably one of Paglialunga´s best collections since he joined the label so far.

Without leaving apart the American designers, Moncler Gamme Bleu´s creative director also brought an unusual offer for his latest collection. The artist went to an entirely different direction with this military inpired collection creating a strong statement on the martial trend. Thom Browne takes a deep thought in the camouflage pattern originated during World War I. There might be some who consider Browne just went crazy with the Camo since the entire collection was based on that print. Nevertheless, he confidently brought innovation with this approach. The visionary factor starts from the color story select within the development of his iconic print which included red, white and navy blue.

Milan Fashion week was for sure full of innovation and creative turns of classic trends. There as an incredible variety of proposals for this autumn menswear season. Military style is a style that, if it´s true it seems always to find its way back to fashion, is starting to become an exciting challenge for designers to explore and bring newness and prove the world their creative skills.

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148 i-Con Jean-Pierre Villafañe TEXT ISABELLA COSTA PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY JEAN-PIERRE VILLAFANE

“I am currently trying to get my hands on everything I can, that seems interesting and fun.”

Jean-Pierre is an Architecture student at the Savannah College of Art and Design and a graffiti artist from Puerto Rico. He has found a way of getting involved with other fields such as Industrial

Design

and

Fashion;

incorporating his art in everything.

Background about yourself.

They call me Jeanpi, my full name is Jean-Pierre. I was born in San Juan, Puerto Rico. A city which was much inundated with graffiti about 10 years ago. After leaving high school in PR, I wanted to study something that was directly involved with art. The school I wanted to come to needed to be this exclusive. Where does your interest for street art come from? San Juan served as the platform to learn, practice and engage with other graffiti writers. At the time I would drive around the city and you would see kids my age painting walls. It was very exciting and caused an interest in me. At school, I was always sketching and drawing graffiti I had seen through the streets on the back of my notebooks (classes were very boring at Catholic school). I picked up my own tag and started developing it into what it has become now. How would you describe your style? Very dynamic and rapidly changing. I am currently trying to get my hands on everything I can, that seems interesting and fun. I recently started studying Industrial Design. I try to combine techniques and styles that I acquire from each and combine them. I consider all of these fields very flexible in terms of their direction. Architecture has become the playground were I bring all these new elements from my “side projects”. What direction

do you think street art is taking nowadays? It has become very commercial. A lot of big brands are using graffiti as a tool to appeal to a broader crowd. To me, graffiti started as something I would do behind my parents and had to be careful not to get caught, now I see in a completely different manner. I don’t think the graffiti I paint in canvases reflects what I used to paint on the streets. It’s more tailored, manicured and refined. It has become less ordered in a sense, ironically. It’s interesting to see where street art has headed, a lot of new art forms have appeared thanks to this movement that graffiti might have not been exposed to if it would not happen. What are you up to right now?

Waiting for grad school applications, designing a new clothing line and trying to get my hands on everything I can before I leave SCAD. Industrial Design seems like a fun major, I wish I could pursue it longer. @skemongo

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