RomaniaBucharestBeyond.com
Corina Chirileasa
Romania: Bucharest & Beyond
Bucharest, 2018
2019
Essentials version
Romania: Bucharest & Beyond
Bucharest landmarks & Centennial sights #PositiveRomania
Charming villages, castles & adventure tourism
This is a selection of content from the book Including special chapter:
Romania: Bucharest & Beyond
2019
You can buy the full book at RomaniaBucharestBeyond.com
Bucharest, 2018
RomaniaBucharestBeyond.com
2019
WELCOME TO INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BUCHAREST
Learn, Respect, Succeed Dear parents, ISB is a school that prides itself on the warmth of its welcome to students and parents from around the world. The multi-national community represented at ISB by pupils and their families, as well as staff, helps to create a learning environment which fosters a global understanding and appreciation of each other and the variety of cultures we bring to the school daily. We are proud of the high academic standards attained by our students, and encourage them to achieve their best in all aspects of the curriculum. We promote the values of caring, self-discipline, respect, humour, a love of learning and a sense of discovery which are all so important to the adults of the future, who will soon be shaping our world. This then comes as a warm welcome to ISB from me and from all of our staff and students who are always eager to make you a part of a very special school community. SINAN KOSAK Director
Established in 1996, authorised by the Romanian Ministry of Education and accredited by the Council of International Schools, the International School of Bucharest provides a complete educational programme for students from ages 2-18. International School of Bucharest follows the National Curriculum for England and Wales, adapted to meet international best practices. We offer International General Certificate of Secondary Education (IGCSE) and International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme, which means our students can apply and go on to respected universities in Romania and around the world. Our curriculum offers students a broad-based, challenging and reflective education with an international perspective. English is the primary language of instruction throughout the school. For those students whose English is not yet
fully developed, there is English as a second language (ESL) instruction available, as well as in-class support. Mission Statement
The International School of Bucharest provides each student with a broad, balanced education in a safe and supportive environment. We promote an enjoyment of learning, creativity and excellence whilst working in close harmony with our diverse community. We enable students to reach their full potential and develop skills to become independent, respectful and caring adults who will be successful and contribute to global society. Early Years Foundation Stage
Early Years Foundation Stage provides a safe and secure environment in which very young children can grow and learn. In the Early Years, children learn through a combination of teacherpupil initiated activities and, of course, play. Children’s learning areas are large, well planned
6 and appropriate to the age and needs of the children. Classrooms are set up to encourage young children’s natural play behaviour and allow free access to a wide range of resources. Developing learning needs are taken into consideration with regards to environment, resources, challenges set and daily routines. Close relationships are built with parents, teachers, and assistants to ensure each child has the best preparation for the next stage of their education.
tools available. English is taught using the Talk for Writing methodology. Teachers share the main features of a genre of writing eg - narrative fictional story, report, persuasive writing; children learn the structure of each type of writing through modelling and then adapt this to write their own work independently. We invite children to participate in the Cambridge Young Learners English programme for second language learners. The children may be assessed as Beginners, Movers or Flyers. They complete the course over the year and then take the exam in the summer term. The qualification is accredited by Cambridge. Primary students have the opportunity to learn their first language for two sessions a week. The first languages included in the programme are Arabic, Mandarin, Romanian and Turkish. KS2 students take Swimming lessons in the autumn and spring term, as part of the Physical Education Programme led by professional swimming coaches. The lessons are differentiated to match the abilities of the students.
Primary School
At primary school level, learning often takes place through cross-curricular topic based study. Reading, Writing, and Maths are tied together with elements of Science, Geography, History, ICT, and Art. For example, pupils gain appreciation of a History topic, such as Ancient Egypt, by writing an instructional text on the process of making a mummy in Literacy, and crafting their Egyptian plaster masks in an Art lesson. By placing children at the center of the learning experience we encourage them to investigate, discover and to learn how to harness their abundant natural curiosity. There is a strong emphasis on learning to work independently, and in groups, whilst making use of the latest ICT
As part of the Computing curriculum, all children gain experience of coding. In addition to this, there is an enrichment activity (Robotics) to supplement this learning.
Secondary School
The certainties of childhood give way to the questions and doubts of young adults, as our students grow and thrive in an atmosphere of independent learning and guided study. A blend of practical experiences and experimentation, books, discussions, lectures and new technology allows students to learn at a rapid pace. Careful assessment, linked to international standards, allow us to be sure that everyone is reaching their potential. Real-time online reports to parents provide reassurance and maintain the link between home and school, while encouraging students to reflect on their own work and to believe in themselves. All subjects are taught by specialist teachers, making use of an extensive range of facilities, science laboratories, computer rooms, 2 art studios, a theatre, a gym and rooms for music all ensure that our students learn through experience. Technology complements learning, with classrooms equipped with projectors and interactive whiteboards to help teachers bring learning to life. We take pride in our students’ achievements, and teachers are committed to helping each individual succeed. This is at the heart of our community. Cambridge IGCSEs
The IGCSE is the international version of the examination sat by almost all students in England
and Wales. It is studied over 2 years with final examinations taken at the end of Year 11. It is the most popular qualification for international students aged 14 to 16 and is widely recognised by universities and employers. Students at ISB follow an IGCSE diet which is broad, balanced and individualised. All students study English, Maths, Global Perspectives and an additional language. They must also choose a science subject and a humanities subject. The remaining 2 courses can be a mixture chosen from the arts, humanities and sciences. The IGCSE programmes of study are academically rigorous and help students develop subject knowledge, deep understanding and academic skills. The IGCSE is a valuable qualification in its own right but also provides an excellent stepping stone to the International Baccalaureate. IB World School
The International School of Bucharest is proud to have become a member of an ever-growing global community of over 4000 schools offering the International Baccalaureate in 147 different countries. The IB Diploma programme combines academic rigour with critical thinking skills and personal growth to produce a programme which truly prepares students for university study and professional life after school. At ISB, students can select their required six subjects from a choice of 24 different options. In addition, they follow a dedicated course in Theory of Knowledge, write a 4000 Extended Essay on a subject of their choice and complete a programme of Creativity, Activity and Service which can be linked to the Duke of Edinburgh’s Award and completed making use of extensive opportunities for them within or out with the school. The IB Diploma is accepted and respected by universities in Romania and around the world and is an exciting improvement to our already successful pre-university education.
Welcome letter 8
Published by
City Compass Media Partners
City Compass Media/Business Insider SRL. Bucharest, November 2018
Andrei Chirileasa, Corina Chirileasa, Grégoire Vigroux, Volker Moser
CITY COMPASS ROMANIA: BUCHAREST & BEYOND, 2019 By Chirileasa Corina ISBN: 978-973-0-28118-7 2,000 copies (printed edition) & e-book www.romaniabucharestbeyond.com
Editors of this guide Corina Chirileasa Ecorina@citycompass.ro Simona Fodor Esimona@citycompass.ro
Proofreading Giles Eldridge
Contributors Bogdan Popa, Floriana Scânteie, Ioana Enache, Irina Chirileasa, Marlena Grzeda, Matt Sampalean, Oana Pascu, Peninah Zilberman, Ruxandra Stan, Simona Avram, Thorsten Kirschner, Volker Moser
Design & layout PQB Digital Business Communication Econtact@pqb.ro
Photos Adobe Stock, Kathrin Weident, Shutterstock
Advertising sales Founders of City Compass Group Volker Moser, Christian Pauls, Cristian Bizău
City Compass Tours & Events Partners
Irina Chirileasa Eirina.chirileasa@citycompass.ro
Administrative support
Thorsten Kirschner, Volker Moser
Ruxandra Stan Eruxandra.stan@citycompass.ro
City Compass Intercultural Partners
Printing
Volker Moser, Christian Pauls
Smart Print
More than a travel guide... This is not (just) a travel guide. It’s not just about the places we recommend you to visit, nor just about the things we encourage you to try in Romania. It’s also about discovering this country and its people through their past and their present. Through the stories in this book, and with each of the yearly editions we publish, you’ll know more and more about Romania. This book will offer a balanced combination of carefully curated highlights about main regions, cities, resorts and practical and updated listings for places around Romania and its capital Bucharest. The launch of this 11th edition of our guide coincides with an important celebration for Romania: 100 years since its Great Union in 1918. A perfect time to look back and understand how Romania came to be and what people shaped its last century. Topping it up with a list of places to visit to soak in the history. Check the dedicated Centennial chapter at page 45 to discover all these. We’re more than ever dedicated to showing a positive side of Romania. We all need positive models, now more than ever. While we do cover everyday politics, business and society on our flagship media Romania-Insider.com, with both the good and the bad happening nowadays, we also want to highlight more the things which inspire. This is how the Romania
Insider Awards series was born in 2018 — you can read all about it and the winners of this first edition on page 166. Over 20 partners joined this cause in its incipient year and we’re committed to making it even bigger and better for 2019. Apart from our regular recommendations from all around Romania (which we update every year when we publish new editions of this book), we’ve also chosen several charming villages and several castles to feature in this edition. You can get inspired in our #PositiveRomania chapter on page 56. I hope this book will be a good reading companion on your strolls, travels, flights and on your busy or off days, in Romania or elsewhere. We’ve kept its practical format, upgraded the design here and there, and tried to be even more brief and practical to fit into this hectic world. I do recommend you also check Romania-Insider.com throughout the year, as we’re relaunching the site and adding more valuable content and new columns there. You can always reach out to me directly for ideas or just feedback. Enjoy Romania!
CORINA CHIRILEASA Editor of this guide & Managing Parter City Compass Media corina@romania-insider.com
What's inside this guide DISCLAIMER Unless otherwise stated, all material that is contained within this publication, provided by Business Insider SRL, shall not be reproduced in whole or in part, without specific written permission. Business Insider SRL offers this guide as a publication for entertainment purposes only and takes no responsibility for the accuracy of the data or information within its pages. A good faith effort has been made to present the information contained within this book accurately, however no liability is accepted for any inclusions, exclusions, advice given, or for omissions from the publication. While Business Insider SRL exercises editorial control for contributions, it takes no responsibility for the actual content provided by its outside contributors, and recognizes that they are solely responsible for the content they provided. In addition, any information from any outside contributor does not necessarily reflect the ideas and opinions of Business Insider SRL. Due to the nature of the information business, contact information may change regularly and it is therefore recommended that the respective websites listed, as well as www.citycompass.ro are consulted for more recent information and updates for listings. Business Insider SRL does not take any responsibility for the content of links published within its pages as Business Insider SRL has no control over the dynamic nature of those sites and their content.
In this book, you will find recommendations in different categories, most of which are chosen independently by our editorial team — the lower format to the right. These are always listed in alphabetical order. There are also premium listings, which are promoted on behalf of advertisers — the top format to the right. They appear before the editorial ones and have a colored background. The texts in this guide are editorial stories. Advertising formats include advertorials (which are marked as such), as well as full page, half page, third page and stripe ads, or ads on covers two and three.
City Compass — Tours & Events
A61 Buzești St., Bl. A6, Sc. A, 4th Fl., Apt. 23, Bucharest T+40734 611 223 Wwww.citycompassevents.ro
Romania-Insider.com A61 Buzești St., Bl. A6, Sc. A, 4th Fl., Apt. 23, Bucharest T+40722 206 413 Wwww.romania-insider.com
Table of contents 10
What’s inside the full guide centennial special discover romania 8 10 12 14 16 17 18 20 21 23 24 26 28 29
70–71
District 1
District 2
Buzău Sinaia
District 6 District 3
Brașov
bucharest practical handbook
More mountain resorts
District 5 District 4
Cluj-Napoca Alba Iulia Sibiu Sighișoara Moldova & Bucovina Maramureș Danube Delta Dobrogea & Seaside Near Bucharest Romania listings
46 48 49
Romania Centennial Timeline
52
Centennial places in Romania
The Great Union story
Centennial sights in Bucharest Old Town listings
89–92
Pipera & Băneasa listings Transport essentials House & home tips Shopping options
The people who shaped Romania
Bucharest landmarks
bucharest practical listings
positive romania
93
Carefully selected recommendations of places to check, things to do, useful contacts in Bucharest:
59
Castles to visit this year
68 72 79 82 86 88
56
Charming Romanian villages
63
Concerts & cultural events
64
Adventure tourism
Map of Bucharest neighborhoods
Eating & Drinking Hotels Transport Healthcare Personal care Education Culture
Shopping Legal & business House & home Family & children Fun & entertainment Emergency numbers
Architectural icons, churches, museums and parks not to miss in the capital.
166
Romania Insider Awards Uncovering #PositiveRomania & the winners of the 2018 edition.
164
Alphabetical table of contents
Table of contents 12
11 City Compass
Essentials about Romania Local time: Romanian time is GMT +2. Summertime starts on the last Sunday in March (03:00 becomes 04:00), and wintertime on the last Sunday in October (04:00 becomes 03:00).
Ethnicity: 89% Romanians, 6.5% Hungarians, 3.2% Roma, 0.3% others.
Pronunciation & special signs: we use the following special signs (diacritics) in our guide:
Climate: temperate – cold, cloudy winters with frequent snow and fog; sunny & hot summers with frequent showers and thunderstorms.
ʡʡ Ț/ț is pronounced TS like ‘ts’ in ‘skits’ ʡʡ Ș/ș is pronounced SH like ‘shoe’ ʡʡ Ă/ă, Â/â and Î/î are difficult, but not impossible, for most foreigners to master, and they eventually do. They sort of sound like ‘uh’ but we recommend that you just listen very closely as a Romanian pronounces them, and then practice thousands of times. Seriously! Conversions: Romania used the metric system. 1 m = 3.3 ft = 1.1 yd = 39.4 inches 1 km = 0.62 miles 1 kg = 2.2 lb = 35.3 oz 1 L = 0.26 US gallons
Religion: majority – Christian Orthodox, a small minority of Roman Catholics and Greek Catholics.
Lowest point: Black Sea – 0 meters. Highest point: Mount Moldoveanu – 2,544 meters. Natural resources: petroleum, timber, gas, coal, iron ore, gold, silver, salt, arable land, hydropower. Natural hazards: earthquakes, landslides, floods. Form of organization: Republic, with a President and a Prime Minister who runs the Government. It has a Parliament with two Chambers.
Discover Romania For journeys to Romania’s main regions and cities, a selection of highlights and recommendations.
Membership: EU since 2007, NATO since 2004.
Location: Central and Eastern Europe, bordered by Hungary (W), Bulgaria (S), Ukraine (NE), the Republic of Moldova (E), Serbia (SW) and the Black Sea (SE). Romania has 225 km of coastline.
Currency: the Leu – symbol: RON. The Leu is a controlled floating currency: exchange rates against the EUR, USD and other currencies are set daily by the country’s Central Bank (BNR).
8 Buzău
20 Sighișoara
10 Sinaia
21 Moldova & Bucovina
12 Brașov
23 Maramureș
Gross Domestic Product: € 187.5 bln (in 2017).
14 More mountain resorts
24 Danube Delta
Unemployment rate: 4,5% in June 2018.
16 Cluj-Napoca
26 Dobrogea & Black Sea
17 Alba Iulia
28 Near Bucharest
18 Sibiu
29 Recommended listings
Capital city: Bucharest. Other major cities: Iași, Timișoara, Cluj-Napoca, Constanţa
Phone prefix: +40; Internet domain: .ro.
Regions of Romania: Muntenia, Transylvania, Moldova, Dobrogea. 41 counties.
Language: the official language is Romanian.
Population: 19.5 mln in January 2018, 2.1 mln in Bucharest (National Statistics Institute – NSI).
Flag: three equal vertical bands; blue, yellow, red. National holiday: December 1, celebrating Unification Day
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Discover Romania: Buzău 14
13 City Compass
Buzău Buzău county, just 100 kilometers North of Bucharest, offers breathtaking mountains, wild forests and unique natural phenomena. It is said to have been the cradle of Christianity in Romania, and it is definitely one of Romania’s best wine regions. Pictured here is Lake Siriu. The sparsely populated forests, hills and mountains of Buzău are perfect for sport and adventure activities: mountain biking, rafting, canyoning or paragliding.
The city of Buzău is the capital of Buzău County and makes a convenient starting point, but one should focus on traditional villages, monasteries and archaeological sites. Rural tourism and off the beaten tracks are predominant. Good maps or official trails are unavailable, so a local guide and good preparation in advance are recommended. Information signs are rare and the same goes for restaurants. Rural guesthouses — offering a range of standards — can be found across the whole county.
Nowadays, it has faded: tourists mostly come to swim in its salty waters on summer weekends. It is a good starting point to discover the Dealu Mare (Big Hill) wine region.
Berca area at the entrance of Buzău Valley is a perfect place for sightseeing or to hike or bike into the hills of its muddy volcanoes, its salt mountains, the Meledic Plateau, Lake Mocearu or the “Living Fires.” The Berca village is also known for culinary reasons. It is home of the famous Pleșcoi sausage, a traditional spicy sheep sausage — famous all around Romania. You can buy them in small shops in the whole village.
The cave churches and settlements of Buzău are no less than the cradle of Christianity on Romanian territory — a mystical place full of legends and a cultural and historical treasure amidst a breathtaking landscape. More than 15 cave settlements are spread over more than three square kilometers: the region is nicknamed the Athos of Romania. Some caves are old geological forms, others are carved into the rock. Signs of the first settlement in this area date back to the Iron and Bronze Ages. Until the 19th century, hermits and monks used these caves as places to live and pray. Access: DN 10 to Pătârlagele–Colți–Aluniș. There is no direct access by car — a 4–6 hour walking tour with a local guide is highly recommended.
Sărata Monteoru, nicknamed Little Switzerland, was once a famous spa with visitors from all over Europe.
Bike tourism: Besides the 140 km Dealu Mare cycling route, several one-day mountain bike trails are waiting
Gas from 3,000 meters underground pushes water and clay to the surface. The area is full of small cones of mud, which look like volcanoes. The Muddy Volcanoes (Vulcanii Noroioși), a spectacular moon-like landscape, is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Buzău County. Follow the signs to “Muddyland” instead of going where the vast majority of tourists go. There, you will find much bigger volcanoes.
Gura Țeghii, the area of Lake Siriu, Chiojdu or Bisoca, with the lakes, rivers and valleys of Buzău County allow for several interesting water sport activities. The Buzău River, which has its source at Lake Siriu, is one of the best places for rafting in Romania. Canyoning can be done in Bâsca Mare near the village of Gura Țeghii. Paragliding courses are also available and offer spectacular flights over the Muddy Volcanoes.
to be discovered, for example the 30 km Muddy Volcanoes mountain bike trail (starting from Berca). Buzău County is mainly a one-day or weekend destination in the summertime. Spring and autumn, however, offer very good conditions for leisure activities. The winter — completely free of tourists — creates an enchanting environment in the sub-Carpathian Mountains. Despite the lack of ski-lifts, a lot of activities can be enjoyed, including sledging, walks through the snow and truffle hunting. Truffles can be found in Buzău’s forests between June and January. Dealu Mare, also nicknamed the Tuscany of Romania, is one of the most beautiful wine-growing districts in the country. It is situated on the same latitude as Northern Italy. Places to visit: the stone church and open-air sculpture camp at Năeni (with a spectacular panoramic view) and the vineyards at Pietroasele, Fințești, and Săhăteni. Access: Dealu Mare extends around 60 km north of the DN 1B between Ploiești and Buzău. The best way to find it is to leave the main road and take one of the several small parallel roads that lead through the vineyards.
HOW TO GET THERE Access to Buzău is fairly easy, compared to the Prahova Valley. The closest destinations can be reached in one and a half to two hours’ drive from Bucharest. car DN 2 Voluntari—Urziceni—Buzău (c. 110 km); Alternatively: Bucharest–Ploiești Highway—DN 1B—Urlați–Buzău (c. 120 km): this route is much more attractive as it passes through the Dealu Mare wine region. From Brașov: car, DN 10 Prejmer— Întorsura Buzăului—Lake Siriu (80 km)— Buzău (180 km). The Brașov–Buzău route is one of the most beautiful Trans-Carpathian routes. subway from the North Railway Station; check the Transport section in this book.
Discover Romania: Sinaia 16
15 City Compass
produce Rhein Champagne, which has been made in Romania since 1889. They also have a restaurant and a small wine shop where you can buy award-winning Romanian wines.
Weather
Sinaia
Bolboci lake — pictured here, partially — is just 8 kilometers away from Sinaia. Nicknamed the Sea of Bucegi mountains, the lake was created artificially on the Ialomița river, behind the Bolboci dam.
Sinaia is a must-see city in Romania for its unmatched history. It is the former summer residence of the Royal Family. It is charming, full of history, with impressive architecture by famous Romanian and European architects and it has great landscapes.
How long should you stay? A trip to Sinana should last 3 days to a week: breathe fresh air, enjoy the beautiful landscape, visit museums, go hiking, go to the park, visit the casino building, swim in one of the two local pools, get a massage, have a nice dinner, take a walk. Then schedule day trips to the Babele rocks, the Rhein cellars in nearby Azuga, or the cities of Brașov, Sighișoara or Bran.
Sports Skiing, snowboarding and paragliding are also good options in the winter. The view at Cota 2000 — when the sky is clear — is unbeatable and will fill you with good energy and peace. The cable car up the mountain makes two stops: one at 1,400 m, and the next at 2,000 m. There is also a gondola lift from 1,400 m to 2,000 m. The view on top is stunning. Between May and September, you can enjoy a long or a short hike and from December to April or sometimes as late as May, you can go skiing.
HOW TO GET THERE FROM BUCHAREST car via the Bucharest–Ploiești highway, or via the DN1, along Prahova Valley. The only rush hours are Friday afternoon to Sinaia and Sunday afternoon on the way back to Bucharest subway from the North Railway Station — check the Transport section in this book.
Cumpătu neighborhood — a residential, quiet and elegant area on the opposite mountain from the city center. The house was recently renovated: entry tickets and audio guides are available. The visit is rich in information and also very personal: you are surrounded by Enescu’s music all the way through.
The main park in Sinaia is well maintained and provides a great experience for adults and kids as well as for couples looking for a romantic escapade.
Up in the mountains, there is also the Stâna Regală cabin and restaurant. It is a hard drive, almost an hour on a poor road. Once there, don’t miss the view from Franz Iosif Stone — if the sky is clear, you should be able to see the entire Prahova Valley — a breathtaking view.
The house of famous Romanian composer George Enescu is a little-known tourist spot, located in the
A short drive north of Sinaia brings you to the Rhein Wine Cellar in Azuga, where you can see how they
What to see
In Sinaia it rains often: take a raincoat and proper shoes. The showers are short, so don’t give up the plan for the entire day if it rains in the morning. Carry warm clothes with you at all times — even if it’s 38 degrees Celsius in Bucharest. It can still get very cold in Sinaia, especially if it rains or if you’re on top of the mountain.
At the beginning of the 20th century, Sinaia was the place to be: an elegant, cultural and lively city, a special retreat for powerful Romanian and foreign families, and a yearround tourist attraction. The first King of Romania, Carol I, fell in love with the surroundings and established his summer residence there. He built Peleș castle. Take the time to visit it, together with Pelișor castle, including their interiors. Peleș is one of the best preserved castles in Europe and has a mix of eclectic styles from all over the world. More about it and other castles on page 59.
Discover Romania: Brașov 18
17 City Compass
It is probably one of the best known mountain cities in the country. Located in central Romania, it is close to the picturesque Prahova Valley, and a tourist destination all year long.
Brașov
Founded by Teutonic knights in the 13th century, Brașov was predominantly inhabited by Transylvanian Saxons until the 18th century. This heritage gives the city its distinctively German feel. The Old Town lies in the heart of the city, with its fan-shaped Town Hall Square (Piața Sfatului), lined with red-roofed merchant houses and Town Hall in the middle. The building dates back to 1420 and for centuries hosted the Saxon town council. The Town Hall is home to the city’s tourist office. Downtown, a walk up the pedestrian Republicii Boulevard reveals shop after shop, and numerous cafés and restaurants. Hard to miss from the center is the town’s name in Hollywood-style lettering on
a mount called Pinnacle (Tâmpa) — 955 meters high. To get there, take the cable car which leaves from the station on Aleea Brediceanu — also the starting point of a marked footpath up to the top.
The Old Town, framed by the steep slopes of a surrounding valley, also hosts the 65-meter-high tower of the so-called Black Church, which got its name after a devastating fire swept across the town in the 17th century, leaving it with sootblackened walls. It is the largest Gothic church in Romania, built in the 14th century. It became mostly Baroque after several renovations in the interior. It currently hosts a large collection of Turkish carpets. Through the Șchei gate, some 300 meters behind the Black Church, is the traditional Romanian district. Until the 17th century, Romanians were not allowed to buy property within the city walls — a privilege of the Saxon population. Thus, Romanians settled in areas outside the fortifications, such as the Șchei District, which is one of the oldest. Here, the houses are smaller, huddled together, and the streets are narrower.
Near Brașov Leaving town, a forest road leads through the woods to the Poiana Brașov ski resort, 12 kilometers outside the city. It is accessible by car via Stejărișului St. or from the small town of Râșnov. Eight ski-slopes are available, ranging from 300 meters to three kilometers in length. Bran Castle, in the village of Bran, is often connected to Count Dracula. The castle was built by the Brașovians to control a toll collection point. There are stories that Vlad Țepeș (Vlad the Impaler), the historical Wallachian prince who inspired the Dracula legend, at least in part, stayed a night or two here. The castle lies at the edge of the Bucegi Massif mountain range. More about Romanian castles on page 59.
A recommended natural site is the National Park of King’s Rock (Piatra Craiului), including the highest peak — the 2,244 meter Piscul Baciului. The fortified church of Prejmer is about 15 kilometers outside of Brașov. The village was sacked more than 50 times over the centuries, but the holy fortress resisted. In 1999, UNESCO put it on their world heritage list. All the former Saxon villages in this region have their own fortified church, as you will see if you drive through the country; in contrast, peasant fortresses are a rarity.
HOW TO GET THERE FROM BUCHAREST car via Ploiești (either through DN1A, or the A3 highway, then DN1A) — a three-hour ride or longer at weekends, as you have to go through the Prahova Valley and its resorts crippled by traffic jams during weekends and holidays; to avoid it, drive through Ploiești towards Cheia to reach Brașov directly subway also through Prahova Valley — check the Transport section of this guide for railway information.
Romania centennial timeline 20
19 City Compass
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ʡʡ Centennial places around Romania
Romania centennial timeline 22
21 City Compass
Romania Centennial Timeline
1941–1944 The Second World War After the Soviet Union occupied the territories of Bessarabia, northern Bucovina and the Land of Herța in June 1940, and Hungary, the northeastern part of Transylvania, in August of the same year, Romania entered the Second World War in June 1941, on the side of Germany and against the Soviet Union, aiming to reunify its territory. Bessarabia and northern Bucovina were liberated in July 1941, and in October of the same year the Romanian army reached Odessa. In April 1944, during the talks held in Stockholm, the Soviets proposed a truce to Romania which included going back to the 1940 frontier, and having Transylvania or “most of it” back. Romania rejected the conditions of the truce and by August 1944 the Soviet troops broke the Romanian–German front in Moldova. On August 23, 1944, King Michael I ordered the dismissal and arrest of marshal Ion
1918 The Great Union The Great Union of 1918 was the process that saw all the provinces inhabited by Romanians join the Romanian kingdom of the time. As such, Bessarabia, Bucovina, Banat, Crișana, Maramureș and Transylvania joined the kingdom made up of Țara Românească and Moldova. The latter two came together under the rule of prince Alexandru Ioan Cuza in the 1859 union. Another important moment prior to the 1918 Union was the gaining of the independence from the Ottoman Empire, following the 1877–1878 Russo–Turkish War.
1916–1918
Antonescu, the prime minister and leader of the state. Antonescu wanted to sign the truce only after the front had stabilized and Hitler had given his approval. After Antonescu’s arrest, Romania signed the truce with the United Nations and exited the alliance with the powers of the Axis. Through the armistice of September 1944, and later, the Peace Treaty of Paris of 1946– 1947, Romania had to accept tough political, economic and military conditions but the northeastern part of Transylvania was returned to the country.
1947–1989
1947 Abdication of King Michael I King Michael I signed his abdication on December 30, 1947, at a time when the country was led by the communist government of Petru Groza. The abdication came after the falsified November 1946 elections, where the National Democrat Bloc, made up of the Communist Party and other several satellite parties, was declared a winner. King Michael later explained that he was forced to sign the abdication under threat that over 1,000 youth, mostly students, who had been detained after a November 1945 demonstration in favor of the king, would be executed.
Communism After the abdication of King Michael I, the Popular Republic of Romania was declared. Under the sphere of influence of the Soviet Union, the country moved towards a centralized economy and the private enterprises were nationalized. Its political, cultural and religious leaders were prosecuted and sent to political prison, where they were subjected to forced labor, starved and tortured. Only students coming from of families of “healthy origins”, namely workers and peasants, could attend university in the 1950s. The period of brief relaxation and openness that began starting with the 1960s ended after a visit dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu made in China and in North Korea. What followed was one of the darkest periods in the country’s history as the dictator’s personality cult intensified and the standard of living dropped significantly when he decided to erase the country’s foreign debt.
The First World War After two years of neutrality, Romania entered the First World War in 1916, on the side of the Entente made up of France, Great Britain, and Russia, hoping to get united with Transylvania, Banat, and Bucovina. After a series of victories in Transylvania, the Romanian army suffered a series of serious defeats in the fall of 1916, forcing the state authorities to retreat in Iași, as a large part of the national territory, including the capital, was occupied. In May 1918, Romania signed the treaty known as the Peace of Bucharest with the German Empire and Austro-Hungary. Among other provisions, Romania was forced to cede the Southern Dobrogea, known as Cadrilater, and a part of Northern Dobrogea to Bulgaria. At the same time, but outside of the treaty, the Central Powers agreed not to oppose the union of Bessarabia with Romania. The parliament ratified the treaty but King Ferdinand I did not promulgate it, leaving the door open for the Great Union of 1918. Read more about the Union on page 48.
1989 The Revolution of 1989 The Romanian Revolution of 1989 encompasses a series of protests, street fights and demonstrations that took place in the country between December 16 and December 25, 1989. It ended with the overthrowing of dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu, who was executed, alongside his wife, on December 25. The revolution started in Timișoara as a response to the government’s attempt to evacuate pastor László Tőkés, who had made critical comments targeting the regime in the international media. From Timișoara it spread to Bucharest and other cities in the country. More than 1,100 people were killed and 2,200 were injured during the December 1989 events in Bucharest, Timișoara, and other Romanian cities. Most people lost their lives or were injured in the armed confrontations that followed after Ceaușescu fled Bucharest.
Positive Romania: Charming villages 24
23 City Compass
Positive Romania
Discover Romania’s charming villages
More reasons to discover authentic Romania and soak in its charm ʡʡ Charming villages from across Romania ʡʡ Castles and fortresses ʡʡ Annual concerts & cultural events ʡʡ Adventure tourism
Picturesque views, tranquil surroundings and the opportunity to explore the local traditions are the promises of rural tourism in Romania. One can now explore the villages across the country with easier access to accommodation and meal options. Some suggestions of villages making up the diverse picture of rural Romania below. The commune of Ciocănești (to the right), in the historical region of Bucovina in northern Romania, impresses the visitor with its houses, which bear traditional motifs on the facades. The commune hosts various events, including an egg painting festival, held before Easter, the Tillage Week, and a Trout Festival. Lonely Planet included it on a list of the most colorful destinations in Europe. How to get there: Ciocănești is located in northern Romania. plane Fly to Cluj-Napoca, Târgu-Mureș, or Suceava, all of them cities with airports, then drive car. The village of Gărâna, in western Romania, is the place where the jazz festival of the same name has been
taking place for more than twenty years. People flock each summer there to listen to a line-up of prominent international musicians and the accommodation options in the area have developed as a result. As it is set close to the Semenic Nature Park, the surrounding landscape offers plenty of options for exploring, either on foot or by bike, for which trails have been set up. How to get there: car Gărâna can be accessed from Reșița or Slatina Timiș. plane The closest city with an airport is Timișoara. Also in Banat is Gârnic, one of the few remaining Czech villages in the area. It is surrounded by green hills and good for exploring the area’s amazing landscapes. It is
Positive Romania: Charming villages 26
25 City Compass
located close to Cheile Nerei National Park, near the Danube Gorges, in western Romania. A music festival, called Rocker’s Challenge Gârnic, also takes place in the village. Further down south, towards the border with Serbia, is the village of Eibenthal, recognized for its theft-free reputation. How to get there: car Gârnic can be reached from Orșova, on the DN57.
A bit further up north from Hoghilag is the village of Cund, where the rural retreat Valea Verde has been set up by the German Jonas Schaefer and his wife Ulrike Schaefer when they decided to settle in Romania. How to get there: car Hoghilag is a twenty-minute drive from Sighișoara, on the DN14. Follow the county road DJ151B to Cund.
The village of Biertan, located in the commune of the same name, is one of the most important Saxon villages with fortified churches in Transylvania (pictured below). It has been on the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites since 1993. The village, established in the 13th century, was an important agricultural and crafts center. Its traditional houses, built in the style of the Transylvanian baroque, and the fortified church are
Another popular rural tourism destination in the area of Brașov is the commune of Moieciu, close to Bran Castle and a good spot for exploring the beautiful landscapes in between the Bucegi and Piatra Craiului mountains. How to get there: car From Brașov, take the DN13/E60 to Viscri. The same road leads further north to Biertan. Moieciu is south of Brașov, on the DN73.
just some of the sites to see in Biertan, a village also known for its original remedy for divorce. This entailed locking the unhappy couple in a tiny prison, where they would spend six weeks working on their marital problems and sharing everything. The Full Moon horror film festival takes place here every summer. In the same commune, visitors can also stop in the village of Richiș, probably the most international in the country: residents of 12 nationalities live in this 700-inhabitant village. The entire region of Mărginimea Sibiului is filled with villages that have preserved the habit of continuous shepherding, taking advantage of the alpine pastures found there. The cheese and meat delicacies produced here, including ‘telemea’, ‘urdă’, and ‘caș’, are famous. In Sibiel (pictured to the right), visitors can see a museum featuring a large collection of icons painted on glass and the 18th century Holy Trinity Church, also hosting an important collection of wood and glass icons. Visitors can also drop by
Rășinari (opening picture on the left), the birthplace of Romanian philosopher and essayist Emil Cioran and poet Octavian Goga. How to get there: car Coming from Brașov, Sibiel is a two-hour drive on DN1/E68. Rășinari is east of Sibiel, on the county road DJ106E. The region of Maramureș is a must-see when looking to discover the local traditions. The village of Săpânța, with its Merry Cemetery, is one of the best known in this northern part of Romania, but the village of Breb can also be a good destination. The old wooden church (pictured above) and the traditional households with their wooden gates are part of the village’s charm. Various options for hiking, biking and fishing are available in the area. How to get there: Săpânța is located in the north of the country, close to the border with Ukraine. The closest city with an airport is plane Satu-Mare.
and other items. Rîmetea, which also impressed actor Jeremy Irons when he visited, sits at the foothills of the Piatra Secuiului massif (pictured above), in an area good for trekking. How to get there: car Rîmetea is 53 km north of Alba-Iulia, on the DN1/E81. In Brașov county, the village of Viscri has seen an increasing number of tourists after Prince Charles bought a property there. The beautiful landscapes and the old Saxon church (pictured below), included on the UNESCO World Heritage list, are top attractions. In 2017, Viscri also made it on a Businessinsider.com list of 25 secret European villages everyone should visit in their lifetime.
Close to the border between Alba and Cluj counties, Rîmetea stands out with its recently restored, beautiful white houses. The ethnographic museum in the village presents many examples of traditional wear, furniture
Close to the medieval town of Sighișoara, Hoghilag is known for being the only place in the country where tuberoses have been grown since the 1960s. A festival dedicated to these flowers has been organized in the past years, attracting visitors to the village and wider commune of the same name towards the end of July. A fortified evangelical church, first documented in the 15th century, can also be found on site.
This village in central Romania shot to fame after rapper Snoop Dog checked in there online by mistake. Bogata, which was first documented in the 13th century, is close to Cluj-Napoca, Mediaș, Sighișoara and Târgu Mureș. A self-described “best place for chillin’ in Romania”, it can be a departure point for visits to the Ciucaș waterfall or simply a place to stay and take in the beautiful landscape. How to get there: car From Cluj-Napoca, take the DN16 to get there. The DN13/ E60 connects the village to Brașov. Jurilovca, in eastern Romania’s Tulcea county, is a fishermen village (pictured below). It was established by Lipovans at the beginning of the 19th century. The seaside beach at Gura Portiței is located nearby as is the ancient fortress Argamum. Jurilovca can serve as a base for exploring the Danube Delta, a biosphere reserve and an UNESCO World Natural Heritage site, and tourists can try boat routes in the Razim-Sinoe lake complex. In 2013, Jurilovca was included on the list of European Destinations of Excellence (EDEN), which focused on Accessible Tourism. How to get there: car From Bucharest, take the E81 to get to Jurilovca.
Bucharest practical handbook: Centennial sights 28
27 City Compass
Bucharest practical handbook
Centennial sights in Bucharest
Uncover the secrets of the Romanian capital and find your way around this city of contrasts. 68 Centennial sights
79 Pipera & Băneasa
70 Neighborhoods map
82–88 Practical info
72 Old Town
89 Bucharest landmarks
These places in Bucharest bear the marks of history — some of them are well-known, others are tucked away but deserve a visit. They are also connected to the Great Union of 1918.
Monument of Infantry This monument on Șoseaua Kiseleff was erected only in 2000, replacing the version which was placed on the same spot in 1936 (sculptor: Ion Jalea) and destroyed after the Second World War.
Arch of Triumph
chevron-up
Built in 1935 by Petre Antonescu (1873-1965), it replaced the provisional arches built for the parade of the returning army in 1918. On the inside of the arch one may see the names of the most important battles
fought during the 1916-1918 and 1919 campaigns. Two of the adjacent streets were given the names of Marshalls Alexandru Averescu (who had a house built precisely near the monument) and Constantin Prezan. The two were the masterminds of the survival and rebirth of the army after 1916.
Ion I.C. Brătianu Statue On Dacia boulevard, in the park behind the former family house, one may see the monument erected in 1938 by Croatian sculptor Ivo Meštrović, who created the original equestrian statue of King Carol I. Ion I.C. Brătianu (1864-1927) was several times Prime-Minister. Maybe his most important mandate was that of 19141918. During those times he oversaw Romania’s tide change and involvement in the war with the purpose of achieving the union with Transylvania. His diplomatic
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Transport essentials
one were names of the fallen military pilots are even nowadays still added. It is located in the Aviatorilor Square.
The Monument of the Railroad Heroes
Sculpted by Cornel Medrea and Ion Jalea and placed in front of the North Railway Station in 1923, it commemorates the workers of the railroads who managed to take overcrowded trains out of the reach of the enemy and safely transport the army and the civilians.
The Last Defender of the Capital This solitary and unknown monument commemorates the soldiers fallen in the ill-fated battle for Bucharest (or the Argeș-Neajlov battle) in November 1916. It was built by Ernest Doneaud in 1921 and it is located in front of Băneasa Airport.
Like in other capitals, traffic is an issue in Bucharest. Some routes are clogged all day during working days — Splaiul Independenței, Calea Victoriei, Piața Unirii, Bălcescu Blvd., Magheru Blvd., Piața Romană and Piața Victoriei. Those who live in the Northern part of the city (Băneasa, Pipera), will see morning and afternoon rush hours in both directions. Pictured above is the Basarab flyover, which helps cross to the Western part of the city.
Airport failures during the Paris conference triggered his withdrawal, but he returned and helped pass the democratic Constitution of 1923.
The Monument of the Sanitary Heroes chevron-up
Work of the Italian sculptor Raffaello Romanelli, it was erected in honour of the medical corps, volunteers and charity sisters who did not only took care of the wounded, but also helped during the spread of the typhus epidemic in the Moldova region during the refuge of the government, army and civilians. It was built between 1916-1920. It can be seen near the Eroilor Underground Metro station.
The Monument of the Heroes of the Air chevron-right
Built by sculptor Lidia Kotzebue and Iosif Fekete in 1934 and inaugurated in 1935, it is the only
Bucharest Airport, also called Otopeni (OTP), or formally The Henri Coandă Airport, is located some 16 kilometers north of the capital, in the small town of Otopeni. It is fairly big, transited by over 11 million people a year. Some of the most popular airlines serving the airport are WizzAir, Blue Air, Tarom, Ryanair and Lufthansa. It has 2 floors, and includes a business lounge and a VIP lounge, as well as offering VIP ‘meet and greet’ services. The busiest international routes are London, Paris, Rome, Istanbul, Amsterdam, and domestic, Cluj, Timișoara and Iași. Check the HenriApp Port Whenriappport.ro/en
Airport taxis At the airport, there is a big taxi area in front of Arrivals, with approved taxi companies. There are touch screens in the airport for ordering taxis: you will receive a printed slip with the cab’s identification number — this is how you know which cab is yours. Very often, the taxi area is crowded and somebody else might take the cab you ordered.
Alternatively, you can also use the Black Cab, Alpha Cab, Uber or Taxify apps — check page 110. Black Cab, Alpha Cab and Uber offer airport pickup at a certain hour. You can also rent a car at one of the car rental offices within the airport: the corridor between Departures and Arrivals. The taxi fare from downtown Bucharest to the airport (or the other way around) should be around RON 50 (around €12), depending on traffic. Make sure
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to take a cab with a fare below RON 2 per km, which you will see written on its door. When going to the airport, the cab driver might try to convince you to pay them for their trip back to the city, but you should not do this. Passengers usually pay a 10% tip at the end of the taxi ride, if the service was good. With Uber and Taxify, the app takes the money directly from the user’s credit card, with an option to add a tip at the end.
taxi CAB SIGNAGE Bucharest cabs carry a lot of signage. Here’s the essential to scan for the right information and distinguish between licensed and overpriced cabs. The cab company name or logo can be found on the front door, as is the price per km. Most licensed cabs run at a tariff of RON 1.7 per km, with RON 17 per hour when stopped. In some cases the tariff can go as high as RON 3.5 per km — you should avoid these. The back door lists on a red background the logo of the Bucharest City Hall, a four-digit number, and a letters and numbers code below. These are the cab’s license and registration numbers. The red background also includes the validity date of the cab license. The cab’s identification number (indicativ), the one you are given when ordering a cab, is listed on the upper, back lateral sides. The cab company’s short, four-digit calling number is listed on to the lower, lateral sides of the car’s trunk, and its regular ten-digit numbers below. Each number corresponds to a different mobile carrier.
Airport buses
There are two express buses available from the airport to the city. Express Bus 783 departs round the clock from the International Departures Hall at the airport, and the journey to downtown Bucharest — Unirii Square — takes approximately 40 minutes, sometimes more (even double during rush hours). It departs Monday through Friday every 15 minutes and every 20 minutes during the weekend between 6.00 and 20.00. At night, it runs every 45 minutes. Express Bus 780 goes to the main train station (Gara de Nord). The fare is RON 7 for a magnetic card valid for two trips and a monthly subscription costs RON 80. The
cards can be purchased at the ticket counter in the Domestic Flights Hall, or at STB ticket kiosks in the city. Cards must be validated upon boarding the bus, using the orange machines — place the card near the machine until you hear a beep.
Streets & traffic Traffic is a problem in Bucharest, and some of the streets are also bad, so expect some potholes. Sometimes drivers do not respect traffic lights, nor do they see anything wrong with driving off-road or parking on the pavement! Expect to hear a lot of honking while driving, especially during traffic jams: mornings and the end of the work day — especially if you plan to drive north to south, or reach areas in downtown. Many in Romania use the Waze app, thus allowing for a better route planning, and avoiding the traffic jams. Google Maps also offers a live view of busy areas for Bucharest, as well as for the country’s main highways. The subway is the preferred alternative, and Bucharest has a fairly good coverage, plus trains run frequently on main lines during the week.
Drink & drive Romania has a 0.0 alcohol limit policy, so better not drink and drive. You can order a cab, an Uber car, or use a Ride Me Home service from Black Cab. They will send two drivers, one of whom will drive you home in your car.
Road tax If you are moving to Romania with your car or are even just driving through, you have to pay the Romanian road tax, which is called Rovinietă. The authorities will be able to check electronically whether you have bought a Rovinietă or not, as cameras have been installed at city exits. The tax can be paid for a period of seven days (€ 3), thirty days (€ 7), ninety days (€ 13) and one year (€ 28), and can be paid in RON at current exchange rates. Most gas stations sell the Rovinietă — try Petrom and Rompetrol. You can also buy it online at e-rovinieta.ro/en. To check whether your Rovinietă is valid, go to this website cnadnr.ro/ro/verificarerovinieta.
Parking Parking is one of the biggest issues in Bucharest. Most office buildings and shopping centers have adequately sized parking lots – check beforehand whether parking is available, ask the person you’re meeting. There are several public car parks — check the listings section of this guide. To park your car near your home, you can
SUBWAY FARES LIMITED TRIPS
rent a parking place outside your building and mark it with your car registration number. Avoid using someone else’s paid spot as they may damage your car if you do so a couple of times in a row. People tend to get very angry about this in Bucharest. If someone takes your parking place, you can use the Romanian method: honk your horn until they come and move their car. It is surprisingly effective. If they do not come, or it happens more than once, lift up their windshield wipers. This will let them know they are in the wrong spot! Cars are parked almost everywhere, including on pavements, at pedestrian crossings, at bus stops, on corners and where “No Parking” signs are clearly posted! Sometimes, a driver would park their car temporarily on a driving lane, leaving the emergency lights on. This means they would return soon, most likely from a shop. In some Bucharest districts, the authorities tow cars parked in wrong places. Check the locations of main car parks on page 110.
Accidents Romanian law requires the driver of any vehicle involved in an accident to stop immediately at the scene of the crash, and to find out if anyone is hurt. If someone is injured, they should call 112 right away and try to provide the injured person all reasonable assistance, including transport to a doctor or hospital, as well as also report to a police station. For minor accidents, there is an option available which does not involve the police, which is called “constatare amiabilă” or “friendly resolution.” Your insurance company will issue a form that you can use. If the accident resulted in only material damages, you must go to a Collision
UNLIMITED TRIPS
2 trips
ron 5
10 trips
ron 20
per day
ron 8
per week
ron 25
per month
ron 70
Damage Bureau to obtain repair permits, within 24 hours of the crash.
Public transport Bucharest public transport is divided into street-level means, and underground transport, each managed by a different company. A company called STB (Societatea de Transport București — formerly known as RATB) runs street-level transport — buses, trolleybuses and trams — and is a great way of getting around. Day buses run from 5 AM to 11 PM, when some night buses take over. Tickets — plastic cards — must be purchased or re-charged beforehand and validated upon boarding at the orange device in the bus. They work on trams, buses and trolleys. Any transfer to another means of transport needs another validation. Night transport in Bucharest starts at 11 PM and most night buses arrive every 40 minutes from 11 PM to 1 AM and 3 AM to 4.30 AM; expect longer wait times between 1 AM and 3 AM. The price of a trip is the same as during the day, RON 1.3, and all subscriptions for day buses work for night buses as well. All the night buses — 25 such lines — have the letter N in front of their number (N101, N102 and so on).
Metro Metrorex manages the subway network. You can spot the underground metro stations easily as they are marked with a big letter M sign at the entrance. Metro
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trains run between 5 AM and 11 PM daily. Access to the station is allowed only after validating your metro card. There are four metro lines in Bucharest, M1, M2, M3, and M4. The most frequently used is the northsouth M2. Some of the most crowded metro stations — especially in the morning and afternoon rush-hours — are Unirii, Universitate, Victoriei, Romană, which are also good meeting places. Also crowded are the ones near office areas, such as Pipera and Aurel Vlaicu stations, and Aviatorilor. www.metrorex.ro/Resurse/Harta/harta2017_iunie.pdf In many stations, the access system is made of glass doors (newly installed), while in some others, to enter, upon validating your card, you have to pass by metal turnstiles (old system). You can buy paper cards from the operator at the metro station or from one of the 35 automatic vending machines installed across Bucharest metro stations. Some of the big stations downtown allow to use contactless cards (credit or debit card) to buy a metro ticket and enter the station. It is not possible to use the STB card on the metro system. But there is a separate joint STB–Metrorex card which is valid for 60 minutes from the first validation.
Tourist line Red double-deckers carry tourists along the Bucharest City Tour route, several times a day between 10 AM and 10 PM, from spring to fall. The route is 15.4 km long and should take 50 minutes, with buses running every 15 minutes. The price of a ticket is RON 25 (the equivalent of € 5.6) for adults and RON 10 (some € 2.2) for children up aged between 7 and 14. The transport card can be bought on the bus and is valid for 24 h. The most popular Bucharest exits by car are the Sun
Rejoignez les lecteurs francophones de Roumanie!
STREET-LEVEL TRANSPORT FARES ONE TRIP
MONTHLY SUBSCRIPTIONS
OTHER SUBSCRIPTIONS for all urban lines
ron 1.3
for 1 urban line
ron 30
for 2 urban lines
ron 35
for all urban lines
ron 50
valid 1 day
ron 8
valid 7 days
ron 17
valid 15 days
ron 25
Highway in the east to go to the coast, the Bucharest– Ploiești Highway to go north, and the DN1, also to the north, via Otopeni, which goes to Ploiești and the mountain resorts in the Prahovei Valley. Another exit to the west on A1 Highway towards Pitești is the main road to western Romania, and an alternative route for those heading to Transylvania.
Railways The Romanian railway company CFR (Căile Ferate Române) provides a reliable and often scenic means of transport to destinations outside Bucharest. But trains are rather slow, and for some destinations in Transylvania, the connection to capital Bucharest can reach up to 12 hours! Information in English cfrcalatori. ro, or m.cfrcalatori.ro. Alternatively, several private railway operators run routes throughout the country, with the similar speed limitations, due to the poor quality of the tracks. ʡʡ Check the listings on page 110.
BUCAREST
Découvrez LePetitJournal.com/Bucarest: portraits, chroniques, interviews, décryptage de la société roumaine, infos pratiques, coups de coeur et sorties. Facebook: LPJBucarest
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Bucharest practical listings
Eating & drinking Restaurants
They serve steaks and sushi, a common combination in South America.
AMERICAN, STEAKS & BURGERS
Champions – American bookmark Sports Bar and Restaurant
94 Eating & drinking
127 Shopping
106 Hotels
134 Legal & business
110 Transport
146 House & home
A90 Calea 13 Septembrie (inside JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel) T+40214 031 917 Echampions@marriott.com Ffb.com/chefnicolaelica instagram instagr.am/chefnicolaelica An authentic American sports bar located in the famous JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel where you can follow your favorite game while eating some all-time American classics such as JW Black Angus Burger alongside the well selected beverage menu, among fellow sports lovers.
114 Healthcare
151 Family & children
116 Personal care
156 Fun & entertainment
JW Steakhouse
118 Education
158 Sports
123 Culture & arts
162 Emergency numbers
A selection of recommended places & businesses in the capital.
bookmark
A90 Calea 13 Septembrie (inside JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel) T+40214 031 903 Ejwsteakhouse@marriott.com The star restaurant of the wellknown JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel, JW Steakhouse is the absolute location for the refined meat lovers. The fine cuts selection is prepared under the expert supervision of chef Sorin Barbu and served by the professional staff of the restaurant, in order to ensure the complete satisfaction of each guest.
Aria Burger A2 Slănic St. T+40773 778 860 Wwww.ariaburger.ro Open-kitchen concept, burgers, wraps and salads.
Barbizon Steak House A10 Montreal Square (inside Pullman Hotel) T+40212 021 635
Baz Bistro & Lounge A13 Barbu Văcărescu St. T+40740 791 193 Wwww.bazbistro.ro Ffb.com/bazbistro
Beef Room
Hard Rock Café A32 Kiseleff St. (inside Herăstrău Park) T+40212 066 261 Ffb.com/hardrockcafebucharest The famous restaurant now also serves vegetarian dishes.
La Estancia A4 Herăstrău St. T+40 787 444 604 Wwww.estancia.ro
Modelier A12 Duzilor St. T+40799 630 693 Ffb.com/modelierbar They serve tasty burgers.
Osho A19-21 Primăverii Blvd. T+40215 683 031 Wwww.osho-restaurant.ro
A12 Doamnei St., Old Town (inside Hilton Garden Inn Hotel) T+40735 223 355 Ffb.com/beefroom Business lunches during the week, à la carte dinner, Argentinian beef. It comes highly recommended.
Prime Steaks & Seafood
Burgerbar
A56 Franceză St. T+40756 600 000 Wwww.redangus.ro Ffb.com/RedAngusSteakhouse Tender, juicy steaks and burgers, highly recommended.
A182 Calea Dorobanți T+40212 339 096 Wwww.burger-bar.ro Ffb.com/BurgerBarRomania
Daniel’s American Pub & Restaurant
A63-81 Calea Victoriei, B-4 (inside Radisson Blu hotel) T+40213 119 000 Wwww.radissonblu.com/en/ hotel-bucharest/restaurants
Red Angus Steakhouse
Switch.Eat
A3 Covaci St., Old Town T+40737 197 710 Ffb.com/danielsamericanpub
A34 Horei St. T+40726 023 881 Wwww.switcheat.ro
Argentine
EMTE
Vacamuuu
A7-9 Șoseaua Nordului T+40720 100 400 ABăneasa Shopping City T+40 721 100 400 Wwww.restaurant-argentine.ro
A77 Calea Floreasca T+40799 358 585 Ffb.com/emterestaurant Gourmet burgers, Scandinavian decor.
A111 Calea Floreasca T+40731 351 135 Wwww.vacamuuu.com Ffb.com/vacamuuu.bucharest
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Vivo
Calif (Condimental)
A60 Calea Floreasca T+40787 709 154
A100 Mărășești Blvd. T+40752 228 727 Wwww.calif.ro They sell shaorma, kebabs and dishes with some interesting ingredient combinations.
White Horse A4A Călinescu George St. T+40212 312 795 Wwww.whitehorse.ro
Zvetto Burger Bar A3 – 5 Ion Minulescu St. T+40728 875 665 Wwww.zvetto.ro
CHINESE
Chong Qing A28 Pache Protopopescu Blvd. T+40731 383 952 Wwww.restaurantulchinezesc.ro
Nan Jing
Dristor Kebap A1 Camil Ressu St. T+40213 468 100 Wdristorkebap.com
Pep & Pepper ASeveral malls in Bucharest Wwww.pepandpepper.ro Restaurant offering a fixed number of combination dishes with pasta, meat and salad.
a good taste oasis placed on the border between the historical center and one of the city’s most beautiful gardens.
TAPO
Taj
Casa di David
A30 Oltețului St. T+40747 083 083 Wwww.tapo.ro
A127-131 Calea 13 Septembrie T+40748 133 300 Wwww.tajrestaurant.ro
A7-9 Șoseaua Nordului T+40212 324 715 Wwww.casadidavid.ro
Cave de Bucharest
Veranda Casa Frumoasă
INTERNATIONAL CUISINE
Chefs Experience
A139-143 Mărgelelor St. T+40746 254 444 Wwww.lacave.ro
A5 Clopotarii Vechi St. T+40733 735 932 Wwww.verandacasafrumoasa.ro
Corso Brasserie
Ici et Là
The Artist
A26-30 Intrarea Odăii, La Plage T+40731 453 608 Wwww.icietla.ro
A147 Calea Victoriei T+40728 318 871 Wwww.theartist.ro
Galli, Rôtisserie Française
GREEK
A6 G-ral Christian Tell St. T+40213 138 230 Wwww.rotisseriegalli.com Ffb.com/rotisserieGalli
Pizza Hut
Amvrosia A11 Drumul Bisericii St. T+40722 227 465 Wwww.amvrosia-restaurantgrecesc.ro
La Cantine de Nicolai
A2-4 Gheorghe Manu St. T+40213 181 285 Wwww.restaurantnanjing.ro
A5-7 Calea Dorobanți T+40740 121 901 Wpizzahut.ro Wwww.pizzahutdelivery.ro
Orașul Interzis
Subway
GERMAN
A98 Vasile Lascăr St. T+40314 254 747 Wwww.orasul-interzis.ro
A1 Nicolae Titulescu Blvd. T+40721 782 929 Wsubwayro.com
A238 Traian St. T+40733 567 827 Wlakostas.ro
Die Deutsche Kneipe
La Zavat
Qian Bao
Taco Bell
A2 Intrarea Baba Novac T+40722 622 865 Wwww.qianbao.ro
ABăneasa Shopping City T+4021 203 9000 Wtaco-bell.ro Ffb.com/tacobellro
A9 Stockholm St. T+40722 284 560 Ffb.com/diedeutschekneipe
A16 Popa Nan St. T+40766 526 791 Wwww.taverna-lazavat.ro
FUSION & FINE DINING
LNKO Souvlaki & Grill
Wu Xing A6E Dimitrie Pompeiu Blvd. T+40722 830 330 Wwww.wuxing.ro Several locations in Bucharest & home deliveries available.
FAST FOOD Most of these fast food outlets have several locations throughout the city below we list one main location for each. Check their websites for more locations.
A15-17 Povernei St. T+40725 210 608 Wwww.lacantinedenicolai.ro
Ad Hoc Bistro
FRENCH
Cișmigiu – Bistro la Etaj
bookmark
A38 Regina Elisabeta Blvd. (inside Cișmigiu Hotel, 6th Fl.) Econtact@cismigiu.ro Wwww.cismigiu.ro/en We wished for a one-century old address to recreate the atmosphere from times when Bucharest was known as Little Paris. Cișmigiu Restaurant is sheltered on the upper floor of the Cișmigiu Hotel. It appears as
A10 C.A. Rosetti St. T+40770 214 214 Ffb.com/AdHocBistro
Joseph by Joseph Hadad A8 Dr. Ion Cantacuzino St. T+40753 999 333 Wwww.josephrestaurant.ro Among the best fine dining options in the city, as well as one of the most expensive.
Madame Pogany A40-44 Banu Antonache St. T+40735 091 532 Ffb.com/madamepogany
La Kostas Taverna
A1 Divertismentului St. (inside Divertiland Park) T+40736 887 307 Ffb.com/lnkogreekfood
INDIAN
Karishma A36 Iancu Căpitanu St. T+40212 525 157 Wwww.karishma.ro
Kumar’s Agra Palace A78 Alexandru Moruzzi Voievod St. T+40764 523 202 Wwww.agrapalace.ro
bookmark
A4 Nicolae Bălcescu Blvd. (inside Intercontinental Hotel) T+40213 102 020
The Garden
Chez Marie Garden bookmark
A90 Calea 13 Septembrie (inside JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel) T+40214 031 919 Echampions@marriott.com The wonderful summer terrace is located outside JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel, where clients can enjoy a relaxing lunch or dinner during the warm season. The enchanting peaceful atmosphere and friendly ambiance, delicious dishes and experienced staff are the key features that represent the wellknown terrace.
18 Lounge A3-5 Presei Libere Square, City Gate South Tower, 18th fl. T+40733 501 401 Wwww.18lounge.ro
Astrodom A33 Alexandru Constantinescu St. (inside Domenii Plaza Hotel) T+40730 630 630 Wwww.astrodom.ro
Beca’s Kitchen A80 Mihai Eminescu St. T+40744 344 700 Wwww.becaskitchen.ro
Bite A53 Mătăsari St. T+40730 375 522 Wwww.bitebucharest.ro
A55 Calea Floreasca T+40723 856 916 Wwww.chefsexperience.ro
A44 General H. m. Berthelot St. T+40314 278 776 Wwww.chezmarie.ro
Chico Chillout A10 Tonitza St., Old Town T+40733 324 426 Wwww.chicochillout.ro
Citronelle A1 Poligrafiei St. (inside Crowne Plaza Hotel) T+40212 240 034 Ffb.com/Citronelle
Gargantua A8 Șerban Petrescu St. A69 Jean-Louis Calderon St. T+40726 555 679, T+40726 555 688 Wwww.restaurantgargantua.ro
Hambar – Brasserie & Charcuterie A31 Aviatorilor T+4021 222 6422 Wfb.com/hambar.brasserie
Journey Pub A25 George Enescu St. T+40752 285 286 Wwww.journey-pub.ro
La Samuelle A3-5 Charles de Gaulle Square T+40730 173 180 Wwww.la-samuelle.ro
La Veranda A1 Poligrafiei St. (inside Crowne Plaza Hotel) T+40212 240 034 Ffb.com/LaVeranda
Everything you need to feel at home in Romania!
Alphabetical table of contents 40
Alphabetical Index 2 Mai
23 August
www.citycompassmedia.com
Reliable & practical information, advertising, editorial services & events. Team buildings, culinary events, tailored solutions.
www.citycompassevents.ro
Trainings & tailored intercultural & sales consultancy. trainings@citycompass.ro
hello@citycompass.ro
41 42
A
ccidents 84 Addictions 116 Adventure tourism 64 Agigea 42 Air condition repair 148 Airport 82 Alba Iulia 17, 36, 52 American restaurants 94 Antipa museum 91 Antique & crafts shops 127 Apart hotels & short term apartments 110 Architects & interior designers 149 Arieșeni 34 Art galleries 123 Astronomy 123 Auction houses 123 Azuga 34
Baby sitting
Banking & money wire Beer halls & bars Bike & skateboard shops Bike rental Black Sea Blood donation Body remodelling Bran—Moeciu—Rucăr Brașov Bucharest landmarks Bucharest listings Bucharest neighborhoods Bucharest tips Building contractors Bungee jumping Buses Business organizations Butchers Buzău Bușteni Băneasa
154 144 105 110 110 27 114 116 34 12 89 93 70 67 149 65 113 142 127 8, 29 34 79
Cable TV, internet, telephony 151
Cafés, tea houses & bistros 103 Carpentry shops & carpenters 148
Cars 111 Castles 59 Catering & delivery 102 Centennial places 52, 68 Childbirth care 152 Chinese restaurants 95 Churches & culture 44 Churches 126 Citizen services 162 Classical 63 Climbing 158 Clothes for children 154 Clubs 36, 73, 156 Cluj-Napoca 16, 35 Coaching 138 Collision damage bureaus 112 Communism 47 Constanța 40 Cooking classes 156 Costume shops 156 Cultural centers 123 Culture & arts 123 Câmpina 34
D
ance studios Danube Delta Darts Delicatessens, bio & ethnic food Dental clinics for children Dentists Dermatology & dialysis centers Discos & fun Discover Romania listings Do-it-yourself shops Dobrogea Doftanei Valley Drink & drive
E
ating & drinking Education Eforie Nord Electric charging stations Electricity Embassies Emergency numbers English books, press Escape rooms
156 42 158 127 153 114 114 40 29 128 26 35 83 94 118 42 112 150 162 162 124 157
Events Eye clinics & hospitals
63 114
F
amily & children 151 Fashion designers 116 Fashion shops 128 Fast food 95 Financial authorities 134 Fitness centers 158 Food shops 88 Foreign exchange offices 136 French restaurants 95 Fun & entertainment 156 Furniture shops 129 Fusion & fine dining restaurants 95
G
arbage collection Gardening & landscaping Gas services German restaurants Gifts Golf Graphic design Great Union Greek restaurants Gura Portiței
87 149 151 95 129 159 138 48 96 42
H
airdressers 116, 154 Handymen 87, 148 Healthcare 114, 52 Hiking 65 Horse-riding 44, 159 Hostels 110 Hotels 106 House & home 146 House cleaning & maids 149 House repairs 148 HR & head hunters 138 Hypermarkets 129
I
mmigration Indian restaurants Intellectual property Intercultural consultancy International cuisine Internet & cable tv IT&C and web development Italian restaurants
136 96 138 138 96 86 138 97
Positive Romania: Romania Insider Awards 42
41 City Compass
J
apanese restaurants Jewelry & watches
K
arting Kayaking & canoeing Key cutting/copying centers Kids entertainers Kinesiotherapy Kitesurfing
Lactation consultants
Language lessons Laundry services Law firms Lebanese restaurants Legal & business Local & central authorities Locksmiths
98 130 159 64 148 152 116 64 153 122 117 136 98 134 135 148
Malls
130 Mamaia 40 Manicure 117 Maramureș 23, 40 Massage 117 Maternity wear 154 MBAs, higher education 122 Mediterranean restaurants 98 Metro 84 Mexican restaurants 100 Ministries 136 Mobile telephony 162 Moldavian restaurants 100 Moldova & Bucovina 21, 38 Mountain biking 66 Mountain resorts 14 Movie theaters 157 Moving companies 146 Museums 40, 124 Music shops & lessons 157 Music venues 125 Near bucharest 28, 43
NGOs
Nurseries & kindergartens Nutrition & supplements
O
ffices & co-working spaces Old town Olimp Online shopping Opticians Organic food
125 118 130 142 72 42 88 117 100
P
adel 159 Paintball 159 Painting & decorating 149 Pakistani restaurants 100 Parcel & courier services 150 Parking 83 Parks, playgrounds, theaters 151 Pastry & confectionery 100 Pediatricians & children’s hospitals 153 Personal care 116 Pharmacies 77, 114 Photographers 124 Pilates 159 Pipera 79 Plastic surgery 114 Plumbers 148 Pool & bowling 160 Pool cleaning 149 Portuguese restaurants 101 Positive Romania 55 PR agencies 140 Predeal 35 Private clinics & hospitals 115 Private maternity hospitals 153 Property management 146 Public transport 84, 113 Pubs & cafés 31, 74, 104
Railways
Raw & vegan restaurants Real estate agencies Recycling centers Restaurants Road tax Rock climbing Romanian restaurants Roofs Rânca Râșnov
S
85 101 146 150 94 83 66 101 148 35 35
chools 119 Scuba diving 42 Seafood restaurants 102 Seaside highlights 27 Security 87, 150 Shoes 117, 130 Shopping 79, 127, 154 Sibiu 18, 32 Sighișoara 20, 37 Sinaia 10, 33 Skiing/snowboarding 65
Sky-diving & parachuting 65, 160 Soccer 160 Spa & beauty centers 117 Spanish restaurants 102 Spice shops 132 Sports 155, 158, 160 Squash 160 State-owned maternities 153 State hospitals 115 Stock & forex brokers 136 Stock market 136 Storage 146 Strategy consulting 137 Street food 106 Streets & traffic 83 Supermarkets 132 Swimming pools & spas 160
Romania Insider Awards Gala 2018
Jury table at the Romania Insider Awards Gala, October 16, 2018
Cătălin Radu, Country Commercial Lead, Bayer Romania & Moldova
Luc Beiso, CEO of Crédit Agricole Bank Romania
Awards sponsor table branding at the Romania Insider Awards Gala
Dragoș Ungureanu, Deputy Director SMEs, Banca Transilvania
Elena Pap, General Manager of Up Romania
Deutsche Schule Bukarest showcasing their future school
Beatrice Dumitrașcu, VP Residential Sales, One United Properties
Gustavo Navarro, Managing Director, CRH Romania
T
ailors 117 Tanning 118 Tattoos 118 Tax consulting & accounting 137 Taxis & car sharing 113 Tennis 161 Thai restaurants 102 Timișoara 37 Tourist bus 85 Tours & events 44 Toys & baby gear 155 Traditional markets 132 Translation centers 138 Transport 82, 110 Transylvania 38 Travel agencies 110 Turkish restaurants 102
U
pholsters Utilities & bills
V
149 86, 150, 162
adu Vama Veche Vietnamese restaurants Villages
41 41 102 56
Wakeboard
161 Watch repairs 118 Water & amusement parks 158 Water delivery services 149 Windows & doors 148 Wines 29, 75, 105, 133
Yoga
161
Romania Insider Awards 2018 Jury: Manuela Banu – CEO of Orkla Foods Romania, Sebastien Delen – General Manager of Ubisoft, Ioana Enache – General Manager of Amway Romania, Bulgaria & Greece, Gustavo Navarro – Managing Director of CRH Romania, Aurelia Luca – Managing Director of Skanska Romania, Robert Maxim – Founding Partner of Ensight Management Consulting, Richard Sentkar – Country Head for Romania, BNP Paribas Group.
Positive Romania: Romania Insider Awards 44
43 City Compass
The first edition of the Romania Insider Awards, a new event series by RomaniaInsider.com and City Compass Media meant to uncover #PositiveRomania and #GameChangers, revealed its winners in October 2018. Kai Hennig, Deputy Ambassador, German Embassy to Bucharest
Ioana Nainer, Patient Engagement, Advocacy & CSR Lead, Janssen Romania
Bogdan Bercean (L) and Ștefan Iarca of XVision
Cosmin Mihăiță, Marketing Manager, Catinvest Eastern Europe
Alex Skouras (L) and Leonidas Anastasopoulos, founders of Alesonor
Adrian Cighi (L) and Mr. Alexandru Gala-Popescu, co-founders of Pago
Florina Iordache of MagiCAMP (L) & Ioana Tătar of Fundația Principesa Margareta a României
It was a months-long selection process which started with online nominations and continued with two rounds of judging — with the help of the 12 members of the Board of Advisors, heads of main business associations and consultants and supported by the seven jury members: top Romanian and foreign CEOs. The scoring and judging rounds were un-biased: nominations were anonymized so that Board and Jury scored the projects, not the brands. Romania Insider Awards 2018 also included a prize awarded by the young generation of professionals under 30, who chose the people and projects with the best contribution to Romanian Society. The public also casted their vote online by selecting the public prize winners in seven categories of awards, from among the top-ranked nominations after the previous judging rounds. We’ve discovered the Jury prize winners and the public prize recipients at the Romania Insider Awards Gala on October 16 at the InterContinental Hotel in Bucharest, together with over 200 top managers, investors and diplomats. Stay tuned for the 2019 edition: Romania-Insider. com/Awards
Jury prizes Elena Pap of Up Romania and Gabriela Alexandru, regional HR Director with Michelin – Employer of the Year award winner
Charlie Ottley and Oana Mihai, the producers of Wild Carpathia, winners of Best Promo for Romania abroad
Sergiu Pâca, Fundația Adept, receiving the Best Rural Development Award from Luc Beiso of Crédit Agricole.
This event was possible with the help of the following partners (in alphabetical order): ADA Economics, Alesonor, Anchor Group, Banca Transilvania, Bayer Romania, Bitcoin Romania, Catinvest Eastern Europe, Cegeka, Crédit Agricole, CRH Romania, Deutsche Schule Bukarest, Grecu & Asociații, Hotel Cișmigiu, Intercontinental Hotel, Janssen Romania, Le Petit Journal de Bucarest, Lea Broker, Nespresso, Nomenius, Norville Barns Investments, One United Properties, Online Real Assets, Telus International, Up Romania.
ʡʡ Best Innovation Award powered by Bayer Romania went to XVision — an automated x-ray analysis system built by a team of students from Timisoara. ʡʡ Best Rural Development Award powered by Crédit Agricole went to Transylvania Mountain Bike Trail by Fundatia Adept, a 100-kilometer bike trail connecting 8 villages in Central Romania, together with a dedicated yearly Mountain Bike Trail competition. ʡʡ The Most Scalable Social Responsibility Project Award powered by Janssen Romania
PROMO
PROMO
Romania Insider Awards 2018 Winners was received by Generations Community Centers created by the Fundatia Principesa Margareta a Romaniei, a project which brings together the elderly with children from modest-income homes in former after-school centers. ʡʡ The Best Promotion for Romania Abroad Award powered by One United Properties went to Wild Carpathia & Flavours of Romania series and to Simona Halep. ʡʡ Best Start-up award powered by Banca Transilvania went to Pago, the mobile app used for paying all utility bills in one place. ʡʡ Fair Play Real Estate Project powered by Catinvest Eastern Europe went to Amber Gardens, the luxury residential project developed by Alesonor in Tunari. ʡʡ The Employer of the Year Award powered by Up Romania was given to Michelin Romania, which runs three factories and a shared business center in Romania. ʡʡ The Young Generation’s Award for Contribution to Romanian Society powered by CRH Romania was given to Mr. Vlad Voiculescu, co-founder of MagiCAMP NGO and former Health Minister. He created the Citostatics Network, which brought cancer medicine from abroad and distributed it to patients in Romania.
Public prizes ʡʡ The public prize for Best Innovation Award powered by Bayer Romania — XVision — same as Jury winner ʡʡ The public prize for Best Rural Development Award powered by Crédit Agricole — Transylvania Mountain Bike Trail — same as Jury winner ʡʡ The Public Prize for Most Scalable Social Responsibility Project powered by Janssen Romania — MagiCAMP ʡʡ Public prize for Best Promotion for Romania Abroad Award powered by One United – Instagram Romania ʡʡ Public prize for Best Start-up award powered by Banca Transilvania — XVision ʡʡ Public prize for Fair Play Real Estate Project powered by Catinvest Eastern Europe — Globalworth Campus ʡʡ Public prize for Employer of the Year powered by Up Romania — Adobe Romania
Positive Romania: Romania Insider Awards 46
Want the full edition of this guide, in print or digital?
Everything you need to feel at home. WHAT’S INSIDE THIS EDITION d Special chapter: Centennial people, places, events; the Great Union story written by a local historian & a timeline of the last 100 years d Travel destinations from all over Romania, including main cities & regions, mountains, seaside, Danube Delta d #PositiveRomania: Charming villages, castles, main concerts & events, adventure tourism
Head to RomaniaBucharestBeyond.com Online payments and delivery worldwide
d Bucharest’s vibrant Old Town & Pipera, the expat area d Map of main Bucharest neighborhoods d Bucharest landmarks & Centennial sights d Practical info on life in Romania d Recommended & updated business directory: Restaurants, hotels, shopping & much more w RomaniaBucharestBeyond.com