2011 fall and winter Collection
St yle DEVE(R)GO’
A rt
since 20 yea rs
Fashion
www.devergojeans.com
Design Free magazine
Issue 1
We believe that making a good pair of jeans is art. Designing them is an independent category of art, and
do nar Leo by (r)t Jeans is A
that’s why we have chosen the slogan: “Jeans is A(R)T” for the present issue of this series.
[ p age 6 ]
da i nc Vi
DÁvid BaranYa
He was only 15 when he already danced in the Hungarian National Theatre. In the following 6
years and after several other roles Dávid got dancing the White Vampire’s role in the world famous musical „Dance of the Vampire” in Berlin, Budapest, Oberhausen and Stuttgart. And the story has just begun...
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[ page 8 ]
2011fallandwinter revolution
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Authors, Editors and Design: Anita Fodor, Istvรกn Czinege (ityuART), Zsolt Lรกnczok Pictures by Zoltรกn Sรกrosi and Istvรกn Czinege Publisher: Flas Ltd. Hungary All rights reserved. No parts of this work may be reproduced, copied, published, transmitted or used in any from or by any means, graphic, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, scanning, recording, taping or any information storage and retrieval system, without written permission of the Flas Ltd. Budapest, Hungary
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4. Twenty years Originally, the firm was specialized in making suits and other menswear, but in the 80’s when the Italian jeans brands were forging ahead, they hired some young Italian fashion designers.
6. Jeans Is A ( r ) t Faithless: “You don ’t need eyes to see, you need vision”
8. David Baranya Young
Talented
Hungarian
Dance Artist
11. Beyond the denim Our globalised world offers more and more comfort seemingly and of course more and more danger along with it.
12. Materials The original jeans are made of “denim” and their colour is the typical indigo.
14. Manufacture We treat the raw DEVE(R)GO’ Jeans by the most eco-friendly wash.
16. Collection 2011 / 1 2 Fall and winter
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( more than )
twenty years
DEVE(R)GO’ Jeans is a unique brand offering very elaborate, high-quality clothes and accessories. The brand can be met in several multi-brand stores in Europe.
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DEVE(R)GO’ was founded in the 1980’s in Italy. Originally, the firm was specialized in making suits and other menswear, but in the 80’s when the Italian jeans brands were forging ahead, they hired some young Italian fashion designers. Thus, they have created a new jeans-brand, which fits into the new trends. By the end of the 90’s they became very successful in Italy, Brazil and many countries of Asia and Europe. Their great momentum has broke due to the financial crisis in 1998. A young man has taken over the company from the Italian owners and although he kept the designer team, he had to reorganize the firm. He was born in Greece, but lived in Hungary since his childhood. He has been is holding the post of the official representative of DEVE(R)GO’ Jeans for Hungary since 1991. After taking over the management, he moved the headquarter to Budapest. The company flourishes under the management of the new owner since 1991. At this point of time, that year becoming the real birthdate of DEVE(R)GO’ Jeans. By today DEVE(R)GO’ Jeans has become an
international brand targeting those who seek good quality, well made, custom-designed and stylish wears.The inspiration of our products has the combination of the European design elements and the vintage American style. Milestones 1980 DEVE(R)GO’ Jeans is founded in Italy 1991 The Hungarian and international distribution begins 1993 The DEVE(R)GO’ “round label” appears 1998 The headquarter moves to Budapest 1998-2004 Very strong sales activity in Hungary, Greece and Romania 2005 DEVE(R)GO’ shoes show up on the market 2006 Launches the DEVE(R)GO’ website 2007-2009 Entering to the market of Russia, Slovakia, Czech Republic 2011 DEVE(R)GO’ Jeans expands to Belgium, The Netherlands, Switzerland, Germany, Bulgaria and Poland anno 1991
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Turku and Tallin The European Capitals of Culture 2011 Urban Symphonies @ Kumu Dokumentaal The result of a partnership between the Kumu auditorium and the Black Nights Film Festival, Kumu Dokumentaal is a film programme which makes the audience think about, see and discover the world within and around us. http : // kalender.tallinn2011.ee Tartu’s Uus Teater in Tallin Tartu’s Uus Teater (New Theatre)-the core of contemporary theatre and bright ideas in the southern city, will be coming to Tallin to diversify the capital’s cultural scene. http : // kalender.tallinn2011.ee
Alice in Wonderland Alice in Wonderland is the largest exhibition of contemporary art photography ever seen in Finland. The event provides a link between international trends and world renowned Finnish photographic art. http : // w ww.turku2011.fi Carl Larsson - Dreams of Harmony Turku Art Museum presents the beloved works of Sweden’s great artist Carl Larsson in a major exhibition in the autumn of 2011. Turku Art Museum presents the beloved works of Sweden’s great artist Carl Larsson (1853-1919) in a major exhibition in the autumn of 2011. http : // w ww.turku2011.fi
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You don’t need eyes
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We believe that making a good pair of jeans is art. Designing them is an independent category of art, and that’s why we have chosen the slogan: “Jeans is A(R)T” for the present issue of this series. Tailoring and fashion design have developed into the same form of arts as music, dance, painting, sculpture or any other. Fashion design has become part of our everyday life. Many – who just jump into their freshly bought jeans - don’t realize how much fantasy, mindful shaping and detailed preparation comes before the actual product comes out. The greatest designers are celebrated guests of exhibitions and fashion-shows, as the great composers and artists were sometime in their shows. The bond between art
to see, you need vision and fashion is eternal. Since always, those creative spirits become fashion designers who have already beertists or have grown to be one. No matter what sort of art it is, artists are driven by their own fantasy and creativity. Maybe the optimum expression for the essence of art is best said in this sentence, from the first album of Faithless: “You don’t need eyes to see, you need vision”.
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tunity, of course, I would be very proud to work there. To enter for an international ballroom dance competition, (world championship) however not really the medal is the dream for me. It’s more the atmosphere what’s in the air of these competitions, during a world championship, for example. It is a
I joined a ballroom dance class when I was 9. Practically, I got addicted to dance through ballroom dancing. Then, around 14 consciously I have chosen a dance school, and after high school I had a chance/opportunity to work with experienced dancers at Budapest Ballet.
werp and Tokyo have been amazed by this mind-blowing musical. What do you think, what is the secret of this unbroken success?
think. As I’ve had an opportunity to do so many different performances in Hungary, in Germany, after 2 years and about 600 „Dance of the Vampires” per-
dance
things: the performers and the creative team. The
for one more year.
to create a perfect performance, independently of cultural or other differences, origin or social background. At the time of my involvement, more than 10 nations were working together on this show.
“Dance of the Vampires” is apostrophized as a cult musical; so far over 5 million people across the world have seen this unusual, spectacular show. After being a leading dancer of this production, what
power and motivation of the whole team is crucial
Generally, the success of the show lies on two
giving up a certain thing, I did choose not to sign
formances diversity was missing. So, even if I was
Berlin, Stuttgart, Hamburg, Warsaw, Budapest, Ant-
Following its debut in Vienna in 1997, audiences in
to understand.
Dancing the same role is pretty normal abroad, I
the same role on the same stage for a long time?
Is there always a danger of being typecast, if you dance
Broadway or West End would be an incredible oppor-
was being held by somebody I have known for years.
world apart that you have to experience to be able
dancer I would have one. Dancing in a show on the
I have no dream roles. Maybe, if I were a ballet
would be your ultimate dream role?
It all started at school, where a dance performance
been pushed into this direction by somebody?
Have you always wanted to be a dancer or have you
Tours: Night of the Dance (Germany-Switzerland-Austria), Salut Vienna (Canada), Strauss (France)
Theatrical Roles: Pressed for time, No with, not without , Dance of the Vampire, Romeo & Juliet, 1 Body 2 Spirits, Bolero/Tabula Rasa, In the City, Carmina Burana, Vivaldi Four Seasons, Storm, Peer Gynt
He was only 15 when he already danced in the Hungarian National Theatre. In the following 6 years and after several other roles Dávid got dancing the White Vampire’s role in the world famous musical „Dance of the Vampire”, in Berlin, Budapest, Oberhausen and Stuttgart. And the story has just begun...
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only style that is not so interesting for me. I would be able to learn it of course, I’ve tried it before, but it won’t come out from my heart. But it’s cool.
working with the fascinating choreographer Dennis
Callahan and Cornelius Baltus, the well-known Dutch
director. They were responsible for setting up the
productions I took part in. These two mentors were
ly, I couldn’t just throw them away, so I gave them to my girlfriend. Anyway, I buy my own clothes. A pair of jeans, especially, I buy it only if I fell in love with them. If I have to think about it or even
want to enjoy your profession, you have to return
to your roots, so as an adult try to be busy with
something you really loved in your childhood. What
do you think about this statement?
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portunities to be able to continue ballroom dancing.
matter where I work, I’m always looking for the op-
dance, than for me it is the ballroom dance. Doesn’t
Absolutely! Jeans can be a kind of art, and dance is
Jeans is art. Do you agree with this?
I still can’t wait to put them on again!
You should never forget your roots, where you came
from. If I would translate it to a language of the
pair of jeans I wear for years, and even after years
Well, I think I keep on returning to the roots.
hesitate a bit, I know they won’t be mine. A good
bought my first jeans which I worn for years. Final-
According to a famous artist-designer, if you really
As a child I had a few of them. When I was 15, I
pair of Jeans?
ski. He directed the debut in Vienna and visited the
premieres as well.
Do you have any memories about of your first
the show that was originally dreamt by Roman Polan-
very inspiring and helped a lot to guide me into
I think there isn’t, but maybe the hip hop is the
Is there any music you can’t dance to?
so popular. I have been extremely lucky meeting and
level, so no wonder that this spectacular satire is
Something like this can generate energies on top-
Yes, sure. I think new models will be designed all the time, but on the other hand new stuff is often based on something from the past. From my point of view real revolution will be caused by revolutionary fabrics.
Do you think something or somebody will cause a revolution in the world of denim?
connected with jeans on many different ways. Certain performances would be unthinkable without jeans. The whole message would be different, if we wouldn’t have jeans on. Jeans is power, strength, endurance, even if it is destroyed or dirty.
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B e y on d the denim
Our globalised world offers more and more comfort seemingly and of course more and more danger along with it. Today the high-end cell-phones allow us to send e-mail, listen to music, make pictures, read e-books, apply GPS navigation, surf on the internet, and for long we can list up the features of different phones. However, there is one thing we always forget about (or ignore), the radiation of these devices.
There are mobile phones what entire frames are functioning as antennas fully. Do we ever think when we simply put our phones into the pocket, that it sends and receives radio waves even in standby mode? After paying sometimes a lot of money for a phone, we expect our device to be ready all the time when we need it. Of course, to do this, the mobile phone must keep permanent contact and communication with the cell tower we are closest to, just then and there.
Consequently, we expose ourselves to constant radiation freely and willingly, because very few or no pieces of our clothes absorb radiation. What can we do then to protect ourselves from or even filter the surrounding radiation in some degree?
Intelligent textile types appeared some years ago which can protect their wearer against for instance the UV radiation or the radio waves created by mobile phones. There are other types of intelligent textiles as well. There is one for example which – based on the lotus-effect - makes the water run down its surface. Or there are phase-shifter materials that change their consistency by the effect of temperature and create a heat barrier between the wearer and the external environment.
We were always very interested in new solutions and technologies to use them in manufacturing of such clothes which protect the wearers from harmful environmental impacts. Based on all of the above this January we have invited tenders in Sportswear International Magazine and on many other international forums, young designers who can compete by creating models using intelligent materials for the next DEVE(R)GO’ Jeans Fall/Winter collection of the year 2012. The company is going to sign up contracts with the best applicants whose works will appear in the next collections of DEVE(R)GO’. anno 1991
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The original jeans are made of “denim” and their colour is the typical indigo.
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In Europe, the word “farmer” is used to name “jeans” in
After a while by the beginning of the 21st
Hungarian, Finnish and Serbian language. Although the name
century, the manufacturers had to realize
“jeans” has been taken over in several other languages in
that the environmental pollution is greatly
The Netherlands the word „spijkerbroek” (studded trousers)
caused by the huge amount of applied ar-
is also very popular. 22 years before the appearance of jeans
tificial materials and the production sys-
in America, heavy-duty clothes, especially trousers have been
tem itself. It has driven them back to the
manufactured in Hungary and they were very similar to the
natural and traditional materials and old
jeans known today.
technologies.
The castle of Szeged in 1848 gave home to Italian workers
The products of DEVE(R)GO’ are always made
who have made sail and soldier clothing.
using the highest quality cotton. Our attention is fully on to use those materi-
The jeans worn today is not similar to those that Jacob Da-
als, which get the least chemical treatment
vis and Levi Strauss had been supplying the gold-diggers
through their making. After breaking the
with, when they were looking for heavy-duty clothes in the
bales, the cotton is prepared for spinning
end of the 19th century. Moreover, since the 1950’s jeans
by carding. The denim itself is basically
have been altered so much compared to how James Dean or
the cotton textile created from this combed
Marlon Brando presented them in the movies.
thread by a winged or ringed spinning. Who else could have created the winged spindle
During the past few decades, both the appearance of jeans
for the winged spinning other than Leonardo
and their material compound have changed a lot. The various
Da Vinci, one of the greatest artists who
denim textiles as we know today kept their original texture
have ever lived?
and conformation, but their material composition, the finishing and their colours became varied. Jeans had been really stiff and hard until certain washing has been built into the production process. The – mainly young – customers solved this by sitting into a tub of water wearing their new jeans and let them dry on them. By doing this, the jeans have become softer and got formed to the shape of their wearer. After this treatment, they were much more comfortable. The natural indigo was extracted from a plant called Indigofera at an early stage. Artificial indigo blue dye finally has been made only in 1878, based on Adolf Baeyer’s work, who wrote down as first, the chemical formula of the indigo in 1865. They started producing it in an extent in 1897 at the German BASF (Bayerische Anilin und Soda Fabrik) firm.
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Manu fact ure
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The manufacturing process begins with forming the pattern, which means about 15 different pattern pieces in the case of a standard 5 pocket jeans. Based on the finished patterns the necessary amount of material is being calculated with the computer, then the pattern goes onto the top of the denim textile and drawing paper which has the cutting lines on it. Weights has to be placed on the top to make sure the layers stay still during the cutting process (on the sometimes more than 100 layers of denim). After which, the separated packs of the cut materials are bound per sizes and it is followed by stitching. To make one pair of DEVE(R)GO’ standard jeans about 1,6 m denim, some hundred meter thread, 6 rivets, 1-5 buttons (depends if they’re zipped or button-fly jeans) and 4 labels are needed. Stitching one pair of jeans requires about 13 minutes. Tailoring is followed by washing. We treat the raw DEVE(R)GO’ JEANS by the most eco-friendly wash. Its purpose is to make the trousers material softer, lighten their colour and optically highlight the typical stitches. Stonewashing is also done on the finished detailed trousers. For this purpose, we use special washing machines in which pumice stone pieces are placed. These machines are able to handle even 140 trousers together. Washing time may last from 30 minutes up to 6 hours as it greatly depends on the time needed to age the jeans. It is followed by the final work phases like mounting the buttons, rivets, placing the various leaking, tearing and fading. It is always done by hand on each pair with special tools and equipments, for instance metal-nailed combs.
For fading and during the aging process no harmful treatments (sand blast) are used, it is always done by hand rubbing or using harmless chemicals. To manufacture our products we always pay full attention to use eco-friendly methods.
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Dear DEVE ( R ) GO’ friends, In the following season, the passion for the mountain and the fascination of the sea is still living inside us. That’s why our new collection is divided in two main themes. The style of the LUMBERMAN is inspired by the living and lifestyle of the farmers, and also the wood workers who lived at the beginning of the 20th century. Their clothing was durable and resisted the cold. In the ARCTIC SAILOR style the clothes of the old times arctic explorers and sailors crop up. For example the American Robert Edwin Peary and his little crew’s garments, when they reached the North Pole in 1909. We hope that our products will be used for your satisfaction in the new Fall/Winter season.
Collection 2011 / 12
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DEVE ( R ) GO’ Jeans and Shoes Ltd.
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