Food Life

southern Culture

explore the WnC Cheese trail

local Forager

Wild for mushrooms

spring 2015

Say Cheese

FoodLifeMag.com

drink pairings, recipes, & much more

World Class Cuisine

with Chef adam Wilson

the Best of Fairview, NC

pLUs

SPRING 2015 | FOODLIFEMAG.COM

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FOODLIFEMAG.COM | SPRING 2015

features spring 2015

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world cla ss cu isine

Get to know Adam Wilson, owner and executive chef of The Square Root Restaurant.

by Josh O’Conner

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wild mu shrooms

What do you do when you’re not sure if what you’ve gathered is edible or regrettable? by alan muskat

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a tou r for tu rop hiles

The WNC Cheese Trail’s doing big things for cheesemakers and cheese connoisseurs.

by Maggie Cramer

photograph by Tim Robison

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FIrST lOOK / issue 03

s pr i n g 2 0 1 5

14 o n the co V er For the ultimate toasted sandwich try cheddar and gruyere on freshly sliced sourdough. Photographed by Tiffany Welsh

the guide a ta ste o f so uther n cultur e 17 Katie Moore, owner of the Cheese Store of Asheville dishes on our cheese sampler.

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say cheese 18 Make your own spicy cheese straws, macaroni and cheese, cheesy garlic pull apart bread, and pistachio chevre cheesecake.

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lo cal li bati o n s 22 The guys at Appalachian Vintner tell us what to sip this Spring. so w what? 24 A Guide to Planting & Harvesting in the Southern Appalachians pla n n o w/ eat later 25 Eat Fresh from Your Yard in 6 Simple Steps

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city spotlight hi cKo ry n ut g a p fa r m 28 The letters “HNG” on menus are now an integral part of the dining out experience in Asheville and the surrounding region. by noah raper robins

the lo r d’s acre 30 At the heart of Fairview lies a hidden gem. by tiFFany Welsh

the lo ca l Joint 32 Nearly 4 years ago, Chris and Stephanie Sizemore took over an old Huddle House restaurant attached to a gas station on Charlotte Highway in Fairview. by emi Chiappa-starnes

by kimberly kirstein

Q&a 26 with authors of Farmer & Chef Asheville

stay Co NNe Cte d

all new FoodLifeMag.com facebook.com/foodlifemag

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edITOr’S leTTer /

ASHEVILLE CITY MARKET

April 4, Saturdays 8-1

ASHEVILLE CITY MARKET SOUTH April 1, Wednesdays 12-4

BLACK MOUNTAIN TAILGATE MARKET May 2, Saturdays 9-12

EAST ASHEVILLE TAILGATE MARKET May 1, Fridays 3-6

FRENCH BROAD FOOD CO-OP TAILGATE MARKET April 15, Wednesdays 2-6

HENDERSON COUNTY TAILGATE MARKET March 14, Saturdays 7-12

LEICESTER FARMERS MARKET April 4, Saturdays 9-2

MILLS RIVER FARMERS MARKET May 2, Saturdays 8-12

NORTH ASHEVILLE TAILGATE MARKET

Do you remember the National Dairy Board commercial from the 80s — Cheese, Glorious Cheese?

They really hit the nail on the head with that ad, because it has stuck with me for thirty years. Or maybe, cheese just isn’t a hard sell. There are not many foods I can name that are more universally loved than cheese. According to our recent Facebook poll, you agree – 85% of you said, “you can never have too much cheese.” A sentiment I share whole-heartedly.

Needless to say, with a subject so delicious, making this issue was not a hard job. You know, someone (ME) has to taste test all the recipes we include…But enough about the melted, creamy, delicious stuff.

We also visit Fairview, NC in this issue – A fertile valley, located in the southeastern corner of Buncombe County. There are so many farms in Fairview it was hard to choose who to spotlight. I think Fairview might be one of the few local areas where you can get every kind of food you need right in one spot – meats, cheeses, dairy, vegetables, fruits, jams and more.

But that’s not all. We talk with Chef Adam Wilson from the Square Root Restaurant and have a Beginner’s Foraging Guide from Alan Muskat, the king of the local foraging scene.

It’s spring, the plants are sprouting and before you know it the fresh fruits and veggies will be ready to be eaten. So dig in y’all!

April 11, Saturdays 8-12

OAKLEY FARMERS MARKET

May 7, Thursdays 3:30-6:30

ORIGINAL WAYNESVILLE TAILGATE MARKET

May 13, Wednesdays + Saturdays 8-12

EDITOR twelsh@iwanna.com

WEAVERVILLE TAILGATE MARKET

April 8, Wednesdays 2:30-6:30

We asked on Facebook:

WEST ASHEVILLE TAILGATE MARKET

What is your favorite type of cheese?

April 7, Tuesdays 3:30-6:30

For a complete list of the 90+ tailgates in the region, including their season start dates, visit ASAP’s online Local Food Guide at appalachiangrown.org.

31% Sharp Cheddar 10% Chevre (Goat’s Milk Cheese) 7% Monterey Jack 7% Gouda 5% Parmesan 5% Feta 5% Colby 30% Other Cheeses

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FOODLIFEMAG.COM | SPRING 2015

Since 2002, ASAP’s Growing Minds Farm to School program has provided support for hands-on local food experiences for thousands of children at hundreds of schools in the Appalachian Grown region.

Publisher VinCent grassia Assistant General Manager patriCia martin betts Editor tiFFany Welsh Art Director aDalee elkins Production Manager lisa gallagher Contributors katie moore maggie Cramer Josh o’Conner tim robison Charles & geoFF aleXanDer kimberly kirstein noah raper robins Christine sykes loWe Debby maugans emi Chiappa-starnes Advertising Consultants kimberly White rose lunsForD meg hale brunton pam hensley riCk Jenkins Proofreader sam hoWell Distribution Manager mark graham Website Development Dan JaWorsky i wa N N a P ub L i C at i oN s 2 2 g a rf i e l d str e e t, sui te 100 a s h e Vi l l e , n c 28813 828. 210. 0340 Food Life, a publication of IWAnnA, has accepted contributions which may not reflect the opinion of the publisher. No portion of Food Life may be reproduced without permission of the publisher.

In 2015 we launched our new Growing Minds School certification program to honor the fantastic work being done throughout the region at these schools. Here’s the first round of awards: Cherokee Central Schools Cullowhee Valley School Emma Elementary Estes Elementary Evergreen Community Charter School Fairview Elementary Furman University Child Development Center Glenn C. Marlow Elementary Isaac Dickson Elementary Kneedler Child Development Center North Buncombe Elementary St. James School for Little Folks Summit Charter School

Should your school be on this list? To apply, visit our website: growing-minds.org.

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feature

chef

World Class Cuisine Adam Wilson, owner and executive chef of The Square Root Restaurant offers a diner-focused experience centered on “relaxed American cuisine with a world-view”, inspired by his own lifetime of food and travel. by josh o’connor

by Tim Robison 8photographs FOODLIFEMAG.COM | SPRING 2015

vIEW THE MEnU AT sQuarerootrestaurant.com

WILSOn’S TIME In THE RESTAURAnT business spans some twenty years. His previous background involves a wide range of cooking venues including Ritz Carlton Hotels and country clubs, as well as stints as a personal chef on a mega-yacht and on an estate owned by multi-billionaries. “I moved around a lot in the earlier part of my career to learn as much as I could,” said Wilson.

Wilson’s early life as a child of a military father allowed him to encounter food in a variety of areas around the country, but he found much of his passion rooted in the Southern flavors he encountered in Altanta, combined with the fusion dishes he learned in the upscale restaurants for whom he was employed.

Connections to the area

After visiting WnC, Wilson fell in love with the natural scenery and friendly people. The Square Root opened in downtown Brevard in May of 2010 in the former home of the Transylvania Times. Wilson felt the small mountain town of Brevard offered an excellent opportunity to share world-class cuisine that people may not have had a chance to experience before.

The restaurant’s following among Hendersonville residents allowed him to open a second location on Hendersonville’s Main Street, just two years after the original Square Root opened it’s doors.

The Square Root restaurants embody a sense of history from the communities they call home. The

Warm & inViting The interior of the Brevard location.

Hendersonville location is shored up by one of the oldest walls in Hendersonville. The bar at the Brevard location features a bar top milled from a slab of spalted Ambrosia Maple felled in recent years on King Street and the bar itself is constructed of antique panel doors salvaged from a house on Main Street.

growing a business

Wilson is very open about the tremendous labor of love behind opening and working in his restaurants. His desire to build a team of people who share his sense of passion and adventure in bringing SPRING 2015 | FOODLIFEMAG.COM

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feature

ch e f inspiring cuisine Clockwise from top

his vision to diners drives his sense of ownership. “There’s a feeling you can’t explain when someone loves what you are doing. I get a lot of enjoyment teaching and educating younger chefs that come into the industry as someone once did for me.”

Wilson also points out that balancing the demands of overseeing a restaurant with family life and spending a tremendous number of hours away from home each day requires dedication. “Opening a restaurant is intense, in terms of making sure all the ducks are in a row and paying attention to detail. It’s all about making sure each guest has their needs met and that they leave with a smile.”

left: Filet Mignonette Rockefeller with a Hollandaise brûlée, atop Peruvian purple fingerling potatoes and cauliflower purée; Lemon Thyme roasted bone marrow over an Asiago crostini, served with red onion marmalade, finished with black and red Hawaiian sea salt; BBQ rubbed grilled petite pork osso buco pops atop smoked Gouda and Parmesan grits, apple cabbage slaw and crispy fried spiced black eyed peas.

Fresh, Local Connections

In looking to create connections to local food, Wilson makes it clear that quality is one of the key factors in deciding what makes it onto his plates.

Sprouts, micro-greens, mountain trout, bone marrow, and a selection of beers and ciders are among The Square Root’s locally sourced offerings. While he buys as much as he can locally, he also points out that seasonality is a major factor in deciding what can be put on the menu and what has to be sourced from further away. Even during winter months, the emphasis is on supporting local farmers whenever possible.

The relationship with local purveyors is clearly important to Wilson, who tours facilities to understand how his ingredients are produced and grown.

But some relationships are closer than others. “In the summer my wife and mother grow our micro-greens, a dozen or so varieties of edible flowers and fresh herbs. So I’m able to get some of our products directly from my family.” Wilson enjoys pairing the different flavors, which come from the various fresh ingredients he is able to obtain. “We start out with fresh food and always strive to put out food with flavors that will make a memorable experience.”

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Vision for Cuisine

The Square Root’s connections with the local economy can be seen in their partnership with The Brown Bean Coffee Roasters, a roaster right across the alley from the Brevard location.

The Square Root has their own unique blend, prepared by The Brown Bean, which is used in both restaurants.

The blend is in high demand at the restaurant, particularly during the popular Sunday brunch, and diners can take the coffee home with them by visiting the coffee shop.

In relaying his vision for cuisine, it is clear that Wilson feels inspired by the relationship between people and their food, “When I walk out into the dining room and hear that it’s the best dish that they’ve ever eaten or a guest relates a meal to a special place they have traveled to somewhere around the world; it makes all the long hours every day worth it.”

Wilson is not shy about conveying the fact that quality and attention to detail maintain a place of paramount importance in his kitchens; he ensures that every plate that leaves the kitchen is perfect.

Josh O’Conner is an urban/land use planner with a passion for food and urban agriculture.

photographs by Tim Robison

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feature

w i l d f o o d f o r a gi n g

A Hidden Treasure

by alan muskat philosoforager Left: Alan Muskat has been taking people “out to eat” for over twenty years. Below: Maitake; Opposite: Edible indigo milk cap

Each year, millions of Americans suffer from the debilitating effects of a devastating disease.

Are you at risk? Take this quick survey to find out. Which of the following statements are true?

• Most mushrooms are poisonous.

• It is dangerous to touch or smell a poisonous mushroom.

• Even experts often cannot tell edible from toxic species.

• Mushrooms have no nutritional value.

• Mushrooms taste better than ice cream If you chose at least two answers, you could have fungophobia. Fortunately, there is a cure. The truth just might set you free.

Out of 10,000 mushroom species in North America, less than a dozen are deadly. Granted, there are about 200 12

FOODLIFEMAG.COM | SPRING 2015

common mushrooms that are merely toxic. They won’t kill you, but you might wish you were dead. However, that leaves almost 9800 species, at least 250 of which are edible and

common. The rest? Their edibility is unknown. No one’s willing to find out!

But get this: very few mushrooms are suspected of being poisonous.

The vast majority are believed to be quite harmless. Of course, that doesn’t mean you want to play fungus roulette. In some areas, the culinary culprits are quite common.

I’ve been hunting, eating, selling, and feeding wild mushrooms to courageous consumers for over twenty years. And I haven’t lost a customer yet. After two decades with nary a basket case, I’ve managed to pinpoint exactly what one needs to know in order to boldly go where no one has died before. I will tell you now — for free!

What do you do when you’re not sure if what you’ve gathered is edible or regrettable? The answer is one word, and that word has only three letters.

The word to the wise is not eat, try, see, run, or die. It’s not 911 either, though that’s close. Give up?

It’s the middle of etksalf backwards.

I did that in case you looked ahead.

Experienced mushroom hunting teachers learn these tricks the hard way.

The Tonga of Southern Africa don’t have to learn the hard way. They have a well-known saying, “the one who asks is the one who does not get poisoned by wild mushrooms.” Simply put, DIY is DUM. Until you’re an expert, consult one.

photographs courtesy of no taste like home

learn more at notastelikehome.org

However they may be served and eaten, mushrooms you must make yours at any cost... learn to like them, will to like them, or else your sojourn on this earth will be a wretched waste.

-- E.R. Pennell, The Delights of Delicate Eating, 1896

Don’t worry, it’s perfectly safe to touch and smell even the deadliest mushroom. In fact, picking mushrooms is like sitting in a car. Nothing terribly dangerous about that — unless you’re driving with your eyes closed.

Mushrooms are the same way: staying safe has less to do with how much you know than with how careful you’re willing to be.

Are you dying to learn how to forage? The last thing to remember is that haste makes waste. When shopping the Safe-way, the only thing that separates the novice from an expert is practice. If you can tell cabbage from iceberg lettuce, you can tell an edible mushroom from a deadible one. And you don’t need any book to do it. You just need practice and guidance. The only “field guide” worth having is one with two legs.

The world is full of expert mushroom hunters. Most of them live in places where mushroom hunting is as common as driving. Imagine if learning to hunt mushrooms were part of growing up, like learning to ride a bike or tie your shoes. In fact, it’s much easier.

This is how it is in much of the world. People learn to recognize one mushroom from another effortlessly — just like you can spot a sibling in a crowd — simply because you grow up with them. This is the natural way, the only way that works.Only practice makes perfect.

Why bother? Mushrooms, like all wild foods, are superfoods because they are what we evolved to eat. It’s not that they’re so good for you; it’s that anything else isn’t. It should be no surprise, for instance, that beefytasting mushrooms are high in protein.

Some have as much protein as meat or milk. Mushrooms are also rich in most vitamins, particularly B and C, and contain practically all the major minerals, especially phosphorus and potassium.

The most common and popular mushrooms in our area include lobster mushrooms, which look and even taste mildly like lobster; chicken of the woods, which really does taste like chicken; chanterelles, which also have a firmer texture than button mushrooms plus a faint smell of apricots; maitake, which is even firmer with a meaty/nutty flavor; and honey mushrooms, also nutty but slightly sweet and tangy as well.

Every mushroom tastes different, even the “same” mushroom growing in different locations. That’s part of the charm of foraging. Foragers can’t be choosers, so the woods is always full of surprises. No garden-variety produce here!

Probably the best part of foraging is that it feeds you whether or not you find anything.

Besides exercise and time in nature, you gain the reassurance that you are provided for. You may not ‘hit the jackpot’ every time, but sooner or later, you will.

Mushroom hunting, then, can be a kind of meditation, a spiritual practice in nonattachment.

Can you “look without seeking?”

Can you just take a stroll through the woods, alone, or with a friend, and not miss the forest for the fungus?

The deepest lesson mushrooms bring us is that there’s no need to hurry or worry. Good health and real wealth are our birthright. Both come in time, naturally.

Fungophobia is just one aspect of biophobia: fear of life. Do we really have to struggle in a world of scarcity?

That’s not my experience. We may have left The Garden, but it has never left us. Cure your Eden disorder today!

Alan Muskat is the founder of the Asheville-based wild foods tour company and nonprofit educational organization, No Taste Like Home.

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feature

wnc cheese trail

a tour for turophiles the WnC Cheese trail’s doing big things for cheesemakers and cheese connoisseurs by maggie Cramer

ASHEvILLE HAS LOnG BEEn known as a hippie town. So it’s no surprise that area cheesemakers abide by a philosophy of peace and love rather than cutthroat curd competition. A dozen artisan makers (and growing) have banded together as the WnC Cheese Trail: a collective marketing effort that’s working.

At their last annual meeting, members answered a resounding yes when asked if the trail was benefiting their business. Jennifer Perkins, who was inspired by the successful vermont Cheese Trail, spearheaded the WnC effort. She currently serves as chair of the nonprofit and owns and operates trail stop Looking Glass Creamery with her husband, Andy (learn more at ashevillecheese.com).

“People think it’s the coolest thing they’ve ever heard of,” she says, noting that at least 80 percent of traffic to her retail cheese shop is trail14

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related—visitors show up with the printed brochure in hand (brochures with maps are stocked at the Asheville CvB and at trail locations). “People are coming from all over the country because of it.”

Perkins regularly has visitors from across the state, South Carolina, Georgia, and Florida, but people have traveled from as far as Texas and even from across the pond and Down Under. They all leave with cheese in hand.

Tourists are often impressed by the sheer number of cheesemakers in the region, says Rachel English Brown, whose family runs trail stop English Farmstead Cheese and who heads up the trail’s media coordination and press relations. And, she notes, they’re amazed at how different the producers are from one another.

“That’s one thing that helps make the trail work, not only from a participant

looking glass Creamery Left to right: Pack Square; Connemara; Ridgeline perspective but also from a member perspective: Everybody has their own niche that they do really well,” Brown shares. Members craft chevre, Gouda, blue, Cheddar, provolone, you name it from cow, goat, and sheep milk. “It’s not about I have the best cheese in WnC. Each producer is different.”

Perkins echoes Brown’s sentiment: “The trail opens the door for cooperation and recognizing that we’re in the same boat.”

WnC’s Cheese Culture

Of course, locals travel the trail, too.

And while tourists can typically only make it to two or three producers, WnCers can more easily visit every stop. The trail stretches across more than 30 counties, from the nantahala Gorge to just outside of Charlotte.

photographs by tim robison

visit mountaincheesefest.com

Several of the trail’s cheesemakers are clustered around Asheville, and Perkins hopes the outliers will be joined by others as the cheesemaking community continues to grow, and the value of partnership in the trail continues to be recognized.

New cheesemaking members include Bosky Acres in Waxhaw, Dark Cove Pottery and Farm in Cullowhee, and Spinning Spider Creamery in Marshall. But they aren’t the only new trail additions: Fields of Gold, a goat milk gelato maker in Hendersonville, and Mills River Creamery, an ice cream shop in Mills River, just signed on as associate and affiliate members, respectively.

Associate and affiliate businesses support local cheesemakers either by selling their products or by being part of a complimentary industry—think wineries, breweries, and bakeries. “The focus is on the cheesemakers and the cheese, but we also want to highlight those businesses that are helping to make it all possible,” Brown says.

Farther Down the Trail

As the trail’s second year in operation begins to unfold, Perkins, Brown, and the team are excited to spread the curd word even further through the Mountain Cheese Festival (more at mountaincheesefest.com).

“It’s not a hoity-toity cheese festival,” says Perkins. “It’s a down-to-earth, have fun, learn, and enjoy a grilled cheese fest.”

Though the event itself may not be too serious, the cause is, reminds Katie Moore, special event coordinator for the trail and festival director.

“This fest is only a one-day event. It’s supporting something larger: The WNC Cheese Trail is an incredibly important part of our economy.”

“For me, one of the most important things people leave the fest knowing is that there is a viable cheese industry right here in WNC,” Moore stresses. “It’s viable, it’s sustainable, and these cheesemakers are making wonderful cheeses.”

Perkins hopes the festival will help the nonprofit provide additional support to its members, so they can in turn provide better service to cheese enthusiasts. The cheese trail started as a curiosity – could a cheese trail work in WNC? “We’ve done a great job up to this point,” Perkins says, “Now we have to exceed expectations.”

Maggie Cramer is an Asheville-based freelance writer, editor, and communications specialist.

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Jefferson

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ARK WAY EP DG

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Marshall

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Lenoir

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Morganton

Hickory

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Black Mountain

Asheville

Marion

Yadkinville

looking glass Creamery

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Wilkesboro

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Bakersville Burnsville

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Jennifer perkins, mastermind behind the WnC Cheese trail, owns and operates looking glass Creamery with her husband, andy.

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Waynesville

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Rutherfordton

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Hendersonville

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TRAVEL TIPS

traveling the trail is easy

All you need is a brochure/map (pick up around the region or download at wnccheesetrail.org) and a vehicle. But there are a few things to remember.

Plan ahead

Some cheesemakers have regular visiting hours and some are open by appointment only—a few don’t accept guests; they are clearly marked on the map. Head out to explore when members are open, or call in advance to schedule a time.

dress appropriately

Brown reminds that cheesemaking members are working farms with animals and heavy equipment, so clothes can get dirty. “You’re going to be up close with the cheese,” she emphasizes. After all, that’s a major aspect of the trail’s mission: to allow you to see where and how local artisan cheeses are crafted.

85 THE DUO STARTED THEIR BUSInESS In 2009, and they’ve been growing ever since: opening their cheese shop in 2013 (which serves as a retail outlet for their products and other locally made foods and beverages, as well as offering cheese boards and wine by the glass or bottle) and consistently Gastonia developingCharlotte new cheeses.

One of their newest creations, Connemara—an aged goat’s milk cheese— was recently selected as a 2015 Good Food Awards winner. The Good Food Awards celebrate tasty, authentic, and responsibly produced foods; Looking Glass was the only nC cheese producer recognized. Up next? They’ll 601 experiment with Asiago.

So that they can put all their energy into cheesemaking, the Perkins buy their milk from two local dairy farms, making weekly trips. Milk for their goat cheeses comes from Round Mountain Creamery in Black Mountain (a trail member), while their cow’s milk comes from the Pack family dairy in Polk County.

Find more information about Looking Glass cheeses, as well as their cheesemaking classes, at ashevillecheese.com. Their cheese shop is located at 57 noble Road in Fairview and is open Thursdays, 3-7 pm, and Fridays and Saturdays, 11 am-5 pm.

try everything

“Everybody has his or her own personal tastes,” says Brown. “At the same cheesemaker you may find something you absolutely love and something that’s really not your cup of tea.”

ask ‘what else?’

“Most members have something else happening on the side they’d love to show you,” Brown notes. For example, you can purchase pottery at Yellow Branch Cheese, caramel at Spinning Spider Creamery, blown-glass vessels and sculptures at Blue Ridge Mountain Creamery, whey-fed pork at English 16 FOODLIFEMAG.COM | SPRING 2015 Farmstead Cheese, and the list goes on.

photographs by tim robison

the guide

loca l c h e e s e

Katie Moore, owner of the Cheese Store of Asheville, knows her curds. Check out what she has to say about our cheese sampler.

Looking Glass Creamery Not only does this cheese look marvelous it tastes extraordinary. Using beer as one of the ingredients and then rubbing the rind with cocoa, cheese-maker Jennifer Perkins is able to bring a unique blend of flavors to each wheel. Small holes in the semi-soft cheese give it a wonderful texture and feel in your mouth. It’s a beautiful addition to a cheese platter, pairs well with malty beers and is a fun cheese to snack on. Yum!

Three Graces Dairy

Sequatchie Cove Creamery I love this unique blue.

Being wrapped in whiskey soaked fig leaves, Chattanooga whiskey that is, provides the cheese with wonderful undertones and earthy flavors of the whiskey.

Very subtle, this cheese pairs nicely with hearty reds and crumbles softly onto salads of arugula and strong greens.

Goat Lady Dairy Award winning Goat Lady Dairy is a NC treasure.

Their Classic Chevre is a vegetarian cheese that sticks with tradition. Great in recipes that call for Chevre because it maintains its flavor without overpowering fellow recipe ingredients.

The cheese comes in handy sizes and is good for adding to sandwiches and spreads. Pairings - the list is extensive. Try with a grapefruit-y sauvignon blanc or a light red. In the beer category go with an IPA.

There’s nothing like a creamy, rich, Brie style cheese that’s made with local cow milk.

Blanche is a little beauty with a wonderful texture that softens as it ages. The size of Blanche is perfect for a picnic, a cheese platter or to pair with a nice bottle of Pinot Noir.

photograph by Tiffany Welsh

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Say Whether it’s Chèvre, Cheddar, Gruyère, or Parmesan, these four easy, cheesy recipes will leave your mouth watering for more. courtesy of tiFFany Welsh

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gruyère

[groo-yair] :: a firm, tangy cheese

pistachio chèvre cheesecake makes 6-8 serVings

ingredients

1 ¼ C Pistachios (roasted, salted), divided ½ C Sugar, divided 3 Tbsp Unsalted Butter, melted 11 oz Goat Cheese, room temperature ½ C Sour Cream 2 Tbsp Honey, plus more for garnish ¼ tsp Vanilla Extract Pinch of Salt 3 Eggs 2 Tbsp Brown Sugar 1 Tbsp Hot Water

cheddar

[ched-er] :: sharp and tangy, gets better with age

prepare

1. For the crust: Combine 1 C pistachios and ¼ C sugar in food processor. Process until it becomes meal. Transfer it to a bowl and combine with melted butter. Press mixture into the bottom of a spring form pan and move to refrigerator to cool.

2. Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Bake crust for 10 minutes. Cool completely before adding filling.

For the filling: Combine goat cheese and ¼ C sugar in food processor and process for 1 minute. Add sour cream, honey and vanilla and process another 30 seconds. Add eggs one at a time processing each only until combined.

Pour on top of crust.

3. Place spring form pan on cookie sheet and bake for 30-40 minutes.

Remove from oven when it is just set.

Cool to room temperature. Transfer to refrigerator and chill for at least 4 hours or overnight.

4. For topping: Chop remaining ¼ C pistachios in a food processor until small pieces. In a small bowl, combine brown sugar and hot water. Mix well then coat pistachios. Pour nuts onto a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake for 8-10 minutes. Cool and then break into small pieces.

Garnish with candied pistachios and honey.

chèvre

[shev-ruh] :: cheese made with goat’s milk; unique, tart, earthy flavor

spicy cheese straws makes aBout 22, 8-inch straWs

ingredients

1 ½ C Extra Sharp Cheddar, grated 4 Tbsp Butter, softened ¾ C All Purpose Flour ½ tsp Kosher Salt ¼ tsp Crushed Red Pepper Flakes ¼ tsp Cayenne Pepper 1 Tbsp Milk

prepare

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper.

2. Cut butter into cubes. In a food processor, combine cheese, butter, flour, salt and peppers. Pulse until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs.

Add milk and pulse until the dough forms a ball.

3. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough to a scant ¼ inch thick, trying to achieve a rectangle shape.

With a sharp knife, cut the dough into ¼ inch wide strips. Gently transfer the strips to the parchment lined baking sheet, spacing at least ¼ inch apart.

4. Bake for 13-16 minutes or until the ends are barely browned. Remove from oven and cool on cookie sheet.

Serve at room temperature. Store in refrigerator in a sealed container for up to 2 days.

cheesy garlic pull apart bread makes 1 loaf

ingredients

2 pkgs Can Biscuits (or you can make a yeast bread dough from scratch) 8 oz Gruyere Cheese, shredded 2 heads Garlic, roasted ¼ C Parsley, minced ¼ C Basil, minced ¼ C + 1 Tbsp Olive Oil

prepare

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

2. Remove papery skin from garlic, while keeping heads intact. Cut the top off of each head and drizzle with olive oil. Wrap in aluminum foil and bake on a pan for 40-45 minutes, until the middle cloves of garlic are brown.

Remove from oven to cool.

3. Reduce oven temp to 375 degrees.

4. Peel roasted garlic cloves and place in a small bowl. Add parsley, basil and olive oil. Stir together until well combined.

5. Open biscuits. Split each biscuit in half and spread with herb/garlic spread and cover with a small handful of cheese. Place biscuit halves back together and place into a 9x5 loaf pan. Continue with remaining biscuits, packing them in the loaf pan until full.

6. Bake for 40-45 minutes. If bread becomes overly brown, cover with aluminum foil.

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19

the guide

s ay c h e e s e

parmesan

[pahr-muh-zahn] :: hard, dry cheese with nutty flavor

macaroni & cheese makes 4-6 serVings

ingredients

8 oz Pasta 2 C Milk 6 Tbsp Butter, divided ¼ C Flour 1 ½ tsp Kosher Salt 4 oz Sharp White Cheddar Cheese, grated 1 oz Asiago or Parmesan Cheese, grated 4 Tbsp Bread Crumbs (optional)

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FOODLIFEMAG.COM | SPRING 2015

prepare

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

2. In a large pot, cook pasta to package directions for al dente preparation. Strain and set aside.

3. In a large saucepan, heat milk over medium heat until warmed through.

Stir occasionally to avoid overcooking.

4. In a second large pot, heat 4 Tbsp butter until melted over medium-high heat. Add the flour, a little at a time, whisking continuously until smooth.

Cook for 3-4 minutes whisking constantly. Add warmed milk to the flour and butter mixture, a little at a time, whisking continuously until smooth.

It will become thick at first and then thin as you add more liquid. Once all the liquid has been added, continue stirring and add salt to taste.

5. Add shredded cheese to milk mixture, stir just until cheese is melted.

Add cooked pasta to the cheese mixture and stir well. Cook for 2-4 minutes more until pasta is heated through, stir frequently.

6. Pour cheese and pasta into a 9x9 baking dish. Melt 2 Tbsp butter in a microwave safe dish. Stir breadcrumbs into melted butter. Sprinkle over pasta. Bake for 15-20 minutes until breadcrumbs are browned.

Sign up for our CSA by May 15th $400 Join us for Summer Camp $150 for one week Ages 5-12

adelbertfarm.com | 828-215-7208 | adelbertfarm@gmail.com

SPRING 2015 | FOODLIFEMAG.COM

21

the guide

local libations

➊ ➍ ➋

➌

Raising the Bar The Guys at Appalachian Vintner tell us what to sip this Spring

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FOODLIFEMAG.COM | SPRING 2015

photographs by tiffany welsh

LEARn MORE AT appalachianVintner.com

➊

➌

The apples for this cider were picked at the peak of freshness from an orchard in the Brushy Mountains of Wilkes County. Ciders like this are frequently finding their way into the fold manly because they are just so full of flavor, yet delicate, refreshing and complex.

Filling the void between a lighter ale, lager or sparkling wine. pairing: Cherve or Gouda

Sour beer is beer which has an intentionally acidic, tart or sour taste.

The most common sour beer styles are Belgian: lambics, gueuze and Flanders red ale. Asheville’s own Wicked Weed specializes in this uncertain and very tricky brewing method. Genesis is brewed with over 200lbs of Mango, Papaya, Guava and Pineapple and aged for 6-12 months in white wine barrels. Each batch is then blended to bring out the nature of the yeast and fruit. pairing: sharp Cheddar or blue cheese

SALE $9.99 mcritchiewine.com

➋ You want red, they want white?

Rosé it is! Aptly named for their cheeky angelic like color, it pairs with just about anything and usually perfectly. The key word to all of this of course is the word DRY. Just remember, not all Rosé colored wines are created equal; the syrupy sweet juice in your grandmothers fridge is not Rosé.

The true expressions, made by a dedicated means, are the most refreshing wines around. A chilled bottle of Rosé is spring in a glass, and MIP combines the greatest attributes of the best we’ve sampled. pairing: almost all cheese $21.99 mip-provence.com

$13.50 wickedweedbrewing.com

➎

➍ A natural wine from the heart of the Southern Rhône in France, and imported locally by Robert Walters Selections. Isn’t all wine natural?

You’d like to think so, but alas this is not the case. Mistral is sourced from ancient Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and Roussanne vines, grown organically and some nearly 80 years old. Like the Wicked Weed Genesis, it has a “wild” flare to it, no doubt from its own wild yeast fermentation. One of the greatest values in rich, earthy reds we’ve come across. pairing: Brie or creamy blue $21.99 rouge-bleu.com

➎ The India Pale Ale category of beer has all but exploded over the last few years. At the 2014 World Beer Cup there were 224 entries for this style, more than any other by a long shot.

Hop Drop n’ Roll beat them all and took GOLD. Brewed in the “West Coast” style but with a big enough malt backbone to keep us east coasters happy. pairing: aged gouda or toma $13.50 nodabrewing.com

appalaChian Vintner Charles & Geoff Alexander are the owners of Appalachian vintner, a fine wine & craft beer store, located near Biltmore village.

The company supports local, organic and sustainable products, produced by small family owned businesses. The store features twenty rotating beer taps, a comfortable lounge and bar, loC at e D at and a huge private patio, all 745 Biltmore Ave, Ste 121 in addition to a well-stocked Asheville, nC 28803 showroom filled with wine, beer, C A L L 828-505-7500 ale, cider and more.

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A Guide to Planting & Harvesting in the Southern Appalachians DE C

JAN

FEB

MA R

A PR

MAY

KEY

How to plant

space between plants / planting depth Plant seeds Plant transplants, shoots, or roots Recommended planting dates

JU N E

JU LY

AUG

N OV

*seedlings

50-55 days 2 years

4-5 ft apart / plant same depth as nursery 18” apart / ½” deep

70-80 days

12” apart / ½” deep

70-80 days 85-95 days

2” apart / ¼” deep

85-95 days

12” apart / 1½” deep

85-95 days

10” apart / 1” deep

90-100 days

60” apart / 1½” deep 75-80 days

4” apart / ½” deep

75-80 days

18” apart / ½” deep 95-120 days

10” apart / ½” deep

2 ft apart / ¾ inches deeper than transplant soil

2 years

2 years 95-125 days

12” apart / 5½” deep

75-85 days

18” apart / ½” deep 24” apart / 1½” deep

OCT

2 years

3” apart / 1” deep

10” apart / 4” deep

Days to maturity Winter Spring Summer Fall

6-10 years*

15-18 ft apart / 12-18” deep* 15” apart / 6” deep

S E PT

Harvest

50-60 days

Compiled from research provided by the University of North Carolina Cooperative Extension, ASAP, and the Farmer’s Almanac, this guide includes suggested dates for several crops. Note: The Southern Appalachians are diverse, and growing seasons vary. The months above are approximate.

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FOODLIFEMAG.COM | SPRING 2015

by aDalee elkins

the guide

in t h e ya r d

Eat Fresh from Your Yard in 6 Simple Steps

by Kimberly Kirstein

➊Think about what you eat

Yes, squash is easy to grow and pink and white striped eggplant is really pretty, but the real reward is in the meals that you make from the food that you grow. Notice what vegetables you put in your basket at the market and what your family gobbles up. That is what you grow! There isn’t much that is less motivating than watching your hard work rot in the back of the refrigerator when no one wants to eat it!

➋Think small

A well managed and maintained 4x8 raised bed will yield more food than an overwhelming and neglected large garden plot. If you think small and enjoy your garden and truly reap the fruits of your labors, you will be much more likely to continue growing! And believe me when I tell you that one or two well loved squash or zucchini plants will be all of that vegetable you need!

➌Make a plan on paper

Get out graph paper, a tape measure, and a seed catalog or gardening book. Draw a map of your garden area on a piece of graph paper (your high school geometry teacher would be thrilled to see you are still using these skills!). Use seed catalogs or a gardening book to determine plant spacing.

If you don’t want to drag out books and catalogs, google “vegetable spacing guide” and you will find everything you need to know! Add the plants to the garden map and your plan is done!

➍Prepare your soil

If you are starting a brand new garden endeavor, a small raised bed is the way to go. Use 1x6 inch boards and build a

simple 4x8 foot box. Fill this box with layers of cardboard or newspapers on the bottom, then layers of leaves, topsoil, and compost. When the weather warms, you will be ready to plant your seedlings right into the box. If you are preparing a space in your yard, the process is a bit more laborious. Loosen and aerate the soil in the space with a pitchfork or shovel. Cover with a layer of leaves and a thick layer of newspaper. Spread six inches or so of topsoil on top of the newspapers, then spread a couple of inches of compost on top of the topsoil.

➎ Buy seedlings!

Seriously. It is well worth the cost of those little plants to skip the work and frustration that goes into starting seeds. The exception to that rule would be squash, cucumbers, peas, and beans, for anything else buy seedlings! The best place to buy seedlings is your local tailgate market, farmers market, or greenhouse.

➏ Think local!

You want plants that were started in your climate zone and are already acclimated to it. These are going to be the healthiest and strongest starts you can grow. If you buy from a local farmer, then will be growing varieties that tend to do well in your area. Try to transplant these seedlings late in the day on the day that you bring them home.

Once you get your garden going, the best way to help it thrive is to love it and visit it daily. Pull those stray weeds, harvest regularly, and water if it hasn’t rained in 4 or 5 days.

Next year, start back at the beginning and make your garden plan learning from what worked and what didn’t this year.

Mostly, though, get out there and grow some food!

SPRING 2015 | FOODLIFEMAG.COM

25

Q&A

Christine Sykes Lowe & Debby Maugans Authors of Farmer & Chef Asheville

Q

Your website says you are “a media resource for upto-date information on Southern food trends and the forces behind them”, tell us a little about your background.

C: I have had a 20-year career in marketing, production and public relations, with a specialty in the travel, tourism and culinary markets.

Since 2008, I have owned T3 Creative Group, a marketing and PR firm specializing in these markets. I enjoy writing, so with Farmer and Chef South it made sense that, in addition to our first cookbook project, we also launch a blog that focuses on topical happenings within and around the farmer and chef relationship. Our blog also highlights our partners and other food writers locally and throughout the Southeast.

D: I’m all about Southern food, networking with and learning about its sources. I’m a Florida cracker and have always lived in the South, where I’ve enjoyed a 30-year career in interpreting Southern Food trends. As the former food editor of the nationally circulated Creative Ideas for Living magazine, published

by Southern Living, my job was to spot food trends, know where they came from, and be able to distinguish them from fads — and then interpret them for the consumer.

D: When I moved to Asheville from AL, I joined the Oversight Committee of the Asheville City Market. I learned the most delightful stories about farmers in this area: one was an ad exec, one was a Julliard graduate, and one sold a very successful natural foods restaurant business. Those farmers moved here for the natural resources, as well as the generous community. When I experienced firsthand the symbiotic relationship between these farmers and the talented chefs who cook their food, it was obvious to me that their stories needed to be told.

Q

To what do you attribute your love of food? Any special food memories?

Q

C: That is an easy one for me. It would be the matriarchs of my family. I have a blended heritage of Italian, Lebanese and Irish, and there was always something cooking that smelled amazing morning, noon and night. To this day, the smell of something cooking brings back memories of the people I love. nourishing family, to me, is at the root of those moments. To me, that says love.

C: We both live here and love our hometown. We also know the food scene well – the restaurant

D: My soon-to-be101 year old Aunt Cora taught me to cook. She didn’t have children, so I spent summers

Why did you pick Asheville as the feature city of your debut cookbook?

26

community, the network of farmers and food producers. Asheville has a special collaborative spirit when it comes to our culinary community and we wanted to tell those stories and offer up some focused recipes by the people make this area as unique.

FOODLIFEMAG.COM | SPRING 2015

with her baking pound cakes, coconut cakes, and breads. I’ll never forget standing on a stool at her counter (I was about 9) where I could look out her window at the giant live oak tree in her yard while we baked her oatmeal raisin cookies. Last year, at her 100th birthday party, I stood in the same kitchen and gazed out the same window at the huge tree. Her old Sunbeam mixer that we used together sat on the counter in front of me — a very special moment.

Q

If you could have dinner with one person (living or dead), who would it be? And why?

C: I love this question! It is nearly impossible to narrow it down to one person – so many interesting people that are living or have lived!

If I had to be honest on just one, it would be my father, William Gerard Sykes. He passed away when I was 6 years old and I think it would be pretty amazing as an adult to share a special meal with him.

D: I’d have John T. Edge all to myself at a coastal South Carolina oyster roast or a throw down BBQ joint eating sloppy sauced pulled pork sandwiches on white bread.

John T knows Southern food and culture like no one else, and I’d love to hear his stories.

Q

Your cookbook reads like a who’s-who of local chefs and farmers…I won’t ask you to name a favorite, but I would like to know what local food you always have in your refrigerator or pantry?

C: I always have local honey; I use it for baking and as a sweetener for a lot of things. Seasonally, I just try and purchase whatever is growing and looking great. Or as I like to say, whatever is calling out to me. Local meat, bread and cheese is another treat that is available year-round, which I like to have on hand. I can easily get in trouble at any farmers market!

D: I always have a local soft goat cheese and a firm one for grating, like 3 Graces Dairy’s Castanet, a Manchego-style raw aged Sheep & Cow/Sheep’s milk blended hard cheese. My very favorite, on slices of warm bread, is Stackhouse from Spinning Spider Creamery. I always have Counter Culture’s Big House to grind for espresso, and a crusty loaf of bread from one of our many award-winning bakers. There’s always kale or collards and lettuce, Lusty Monk mustard, Smokin’ J’s hot sauce, and whatever else that grabs me at the farmers market. I have no willpower when I go.

Farmer & Chef

Asheville Over 200 Recipes

from our

Restaurants & Farms

Debby Maugans Christine Sykes Lowe

strawberry & pistachio trifle Enjoy a taste of the French Broad Chocolate Lounge at home, with this recipe excepted from the Farmer & Chef Asheville cookbook. pistachio cake 1 C unsalted Butter, softened 1 ¼ C Pistachio Flour ¾ C All-Purpose Flour 2 ½ C Powdered Sugar 8 large Egg whites, room temperature 1. Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over low heat. Cook until dark golden, taking care not to let it burn, about 7 to 10 minutes. Let cool to room temperature.

2. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Line a 13 x 9 inch baking pan with parchment paper.

3. Combine the flours and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer and whisk to blend. Add the egg whites all at once and mix, using the paddle attachment, on medium speed for 3 minutes. Add the butter and mix on medium speed until the batter is thickened, about 3 minutes. Pour the batter into the prepared pan.

4. Bake for 15 minutes, rotate the pan, and bake 10 to 15 minutes more, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

Jael and Dan Rattigan, French Broad Chocolate Lounge

marscapone cream 8 oz Marscapone, room temperature 3 large Egg yolks ½ C Sugar 1 C Heavy Whipping Cream, divided ½ Vanilla Bean Pod or 1 tsp Vanilla Extract 1. Beat the egg yolks in a medium mixing bowl at medium speed using the whisk attachment until that are thick and pale, 3 to 5 minutes.

2. Bring the sugar and 2 Tablespoons of water to a boil in a small saucepan, stirring until the sugar melts. Boil, without stirring, until the syrup registers 250 degrees on a candy thermometer. With the stand mixer running, gradually port the hot sugar syrup into the yolks. Continue to beat the mixture until the bowl is cool to the touch.

3. Clean the whisk attachment. Put the heavy cream into a large mixing bowl and beat until soft, firm peaks form. In a separate bowl, add half of the whipped cream to the softened marscapone and fold to combine.

Add the cooled yolk mixture and whisk to combine. Fold in the remaining whipped cream and the vanilla.

4. To assemble the dessert, use a biscuit cutter to cut cakes to fit into your glass. Place a circle of cake in the bottom of each. Spoon in a layer of marscapone. Top with another cake circle. Add a scoop of strawberry ice cream.

SPRING 2015 | FOODLIFEMAG.COM

27

City sPotLight

fa i rVi e w Fourth generation Farmers Owners Jamie & Amy Ager. Opposite: 100% grassfed beef; The Farm Store.

local leaders in sustainable meat production the letters “hng” on menus are now an integral part of the dining out experience in asheville and the surrounding region. by noah raper robins NOT EVERYONE MAY BE FAMILIAR with the farm (and farmers) behind the letters, however. Located in Fariview just as Highway 74A begins to wind its way up and over the mountain, Hickory Nut Gap Farm is owned and operated by Jamie and Amy Ager, a husband-and-wife team who are in their 14th year of grass-fed and pastured meat production, with no signs of slowing down. From their 350acre farm just outside of Asheville, the Agers are spearheading a movement of local, sustainably produced meat and humbly redefining our region’s farm-to-table experience.

Hickory Nut Gap is the epitome of a family farm. The farm’s modern history began in 1916 when Jamie’s great-grandparents Jim and Elizabeth McClure purchased the historic inn at the top of the gap and the surrounding acreage, which was in disrepair; the land has been in active agricultural production ever since.

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FOODLIFEMAG.COM | SPRING 2015

The Agers operate HNG’s sustainable meat operation along with an ever-expanding array of other offerings, all while raising three active boys, the fifth generation of their family on the farm. Numerous other relatives live on the surrounding land and are engaged in a variety of pursuits (many agricultural). The Agers and other descendants of the McClures take land stewardship seriously. Several years ago the family placed the farm’s land into a conservation easement with the Southern Appalachian Highlands Conservancy.

Under the terms of the easement, the land will remain in agricultural use, managed by the family in perpetuity.

When Jamie was growing up, the farm was a dairy and apple operation managed by his parents, John and Annie Ager, and he admits that there were frequent times when his main goal for the future included “a house with cable TV and wall-to-wall carpet,” well away from the “rougher side” of farming. When he and Amy fell in love while attending Warren Wilson College,

they began to think about their own vision of the future, one that included farming as their vocation and lifestyle. That vision has blossomed into the modern-day reality of Hickory Nut Gap Farm.

While the farm’s unique history and multi-generational family involvement are notable in their own right, what has really put Hickory Nut Gap Farm on the map is its line of farm-raised meats. Initially focused on beef production and selling locally to restaurants and at farmers markets, The Agers have since expanded into pastured pork and poultry. They now distribute their farm-raised meat products to a broad range of customers, from local restaurants to larger stores across the Southeast, under the brand Hickory Nut Gap Meats. The farm’s beef operation recently became certified organic, which is rare for meat producers. Jamie is excited by this development: “It’s an interesting challenge for us now, how to actually do this – this clearly isn’t something that we spontaneously decided to do, but it does mean pioneering a new way a little bit.

There are very few fully certified organic meat producers.”

Providing meat directly to customers and restaurants even while scaling up production to serve grocery stores and other retailers has meant keeping a finger on the pulse of an ever-more-adventurous culinary landscape and customer base, a fact not lost on Jamie. “Right now you can sell the heck out of some pig ears, sweetbreads, and tails, but sometimes we have to remind people that our plain old pork chops are pretty good, too.”

Chefs routinely feature HNG’s products on their menus, and the Agers are delighted to have the opportunity to partner with leading-edge restaurateurs. As Jamie says, “we’ve been blessed to have the interest we’ve had from so many restaurants, and to be a part of building this regional food system.”

As the meat business has grown and evolved, Jamie and Amy have actively developed other aspects of the farm, all with an eye toward deepening consumers’ sense of the food we eat, which Jamie describes as an “emotional experience with food that we all share.” The Agers have always emphasized the full farming experience for visitors and customers, and

photographs courtesy of amy ager

for much more information, visit hickorynutgapfarm.com

their recent activities reinforce that holistic picture of a working farm. Branching out from livestock, they have planted apple trees, established shiitake mushrooms and u-pick berry patches, and grow a broad range of certified organic produce.

The farm welcomes visitors and offers tours and other activities depending on season. They operate a year-round store to sell a full range of their own meats, fruits and produce and those of other local producers, including cheeses, milk, sauces, and other value-added products.

The next big project at the farm will cater to those seeking an even closer connection with their food and its sources.

Footers have already been poured for a commercial-scale kitchen and event space, which will allow chefs to prepare full meals in what Jamie calls an “expanded farm to table experience.” This project, years in the making, has Jamie thrilled at the

potential: “for the first time, visitors will actually be able to eat prepared food that’s completely grown right here on the farm.”

The new facility should be open and ready for visitors in late summer.

Their success has not escaped notice: the Agers have been recognized as leaders within both traditional farming circles and sustainability-focused groups. In 2011, the Agers were named the Carolina Farm Stewardship Association “Young Farmers of the Year, ”were honored with the NC Farm Bureau Federation “Young Farmer and Rancher Achievement Award, ”and were noted as a “NC Company to Watch”

by CED, a Triangle-based entrepreneurial support organization. These acclaims from diverse sources are a testament to the Agers’ ability to navigate the sometimescontentious world of sustainable agriculture. Observers often describe the dynamic of small vs. large producers in

adversarial terms. When asked about this dynamic, Jamie struck a more conciliatory tone. “I do feel that there is a perceived divide [between small-scale producers and more industrial operations], and that it’s actually been harmful to both sides. At the end of the day all farmers are land-based folks who have to operate in a business environment.”

For much more information, visit Hickory Nut Gap Farm’s website at hickorynutgapfarm.com. The farm is currently advertising for two full-time positions for a yearlong internship to run from May 2015-May 2016; applications are due April 15th. Details can be found on the farm’s website.

Noah Raper Robins, a native of Madison County, grew up on a farm and is passionate about all things local, particularly food and drink.

SPRING 2015 | FOODLIFEMAG.COM

29

City sPotLight

vISIT thelorDsacre.org

fa i rVi e w

the lord’s acre at the heart of Fairview lies a hidden gem. by tiFFany Welsh SEATED ATOP A ROLLING GREEN hillside against a mountainous backdrop, you will find the Lord’s Acre. There is no fanfare announcing it’s location, but it is a place to behold - both beautiful and with an admirable mission.

Despite it’s name, the Lord’s Acre is not religiously affiliated. The name is derived from a movement, which originated in 1922. At that time, Rev Henry Melton from Bluffton, GA, asked each member of his congregation to set aside an acre of farmland and to donate the proceeds of that acre to the church. By 1927, Jim McClure, head of the Farmer’s Federation of WNC and owner of what would one day become Hickory Nut Gap Farm, announced his support of the initiative. The idea quickly spread into an international and interdenominational movement.

Beginning the Lord’s Acre garden in Fairview was the dream of Pat 30

FOODLIFEMAG.COM | SPRING 2015

Stone, who now acts as Chairman of the Board. Stone knows a little bit about gardening. He is editor of Greenprints, coauthor of Chicken Soup for the Gardener’s Soul, and former Garden Editor of Mother Earth News magazine, as well as having been a CBS and public radio garden correspondent. Stone approached several friends and colleagues with the idea and they decided to form a Board to make the dream into a reality.

By 2009, the group had acquired land, generously donated by the Chapel Door, and had set up a small ¼ acre garden.

With the help of monetary, equipment and supply donations from the community plus the sweat of over 100 volunteers and a very active Board, they were able to produce and donate 3 tons of produce from that modest piece of land in the first year. Today, they hold about six acres of land, although they are only farming one acre right now. The Lord’s Acre provides over 9 tons of fresh produce a year to Food for Fairview, the Fairview Welcome Table

and the Share the Harvest Market. They employ an Executive Director and Garden Manager, who both work in the garden, plus several unpaid interns. The Board continues to be heavily involved in farm projects and of course, they still welcome volunteer gardeners on their weekly work night and schedule volunteer groups as they are able.

After seeing the success of their model, The Lord’s Acre wanted to share their ideas with other gardens. They started the WNC Alliance of Gardens that Give, which is a network of community gardens growing produce for donation. Currently made up of nearly 20 community gardens in our area, they hope to expand to project to a more national audience in the future.

But their work doesn’t end there. They perform food assessment studies and work with their pantry clients to develop a more self-reliant community. They provide education opportunities for every age from 3 up. They hope to teach people how to grow their own food, so there is less dependence on food pantries. According to Susan Sides, Executive Director, “We are building ways for communities to feed themselves and hope to one day put ourselves out of business.”

As with all non-profit organizations, the Lord’s Acre can always use more help and support from the community. They welcome donations, volunteers of time and services.

If you’d like more information, please visit their website at thelordsacre.org

photographs courtesy of susan siDes

SPRING 2015 | FOODLIFEMAG.COM

31

City sPotLight

fa i rVi e w

the name speaks for itself nearly 4 years ago, Chris and stephanie sizemore took over an old huddle house restaurant attached to a gas station on Charlotte highway in Fairview. by emi Chiappa-starnes THEY NAMED IT THE LOCAL JOINT. Once voted as Asheville’s Best Undiscovered Restaurant, a look around their dining room indicates they are not undiscovered anymore.

The Local Joint is now thriving.

Both owner and Chef, Chris has an extensive background in the food industry. At the age of 15, he got a humble start as a dishwasher in a large

32

FOODLIFEMAG.COM | SPRING 2015

kitchen in Knoxville. He then went on to travel and work in kitchens as far north as Washington and as far south as Antartica.

Chris and his wife Stephanie were looking to relocate to Alaska when she became pregnant and the couple decided instead to move back to southern Georiga, where her family is based. After spending some time in the deep south they sought more seasonal diversity, so the Sizemores began

their search for a new home. Stephanie discovered, fell in love with and set her heart on moving to Asheville. Although Chris never envisioned himself taking over an old Huddle House, when the opportunity came up they couldn’t resist jumping on it.

It turns out, the Local Joint was the perfect fit for the Sizemore family. There was a real gap in dining options in the Fairview area, so it was a welcome addition for local diners. The Sizemores have been overwhelmed with the amount of support from people near and far; the name really does speak for itself. They set out to create a place where everyone felt comfortable, from truck drivers to bankers to children.

They use local farmers and suppliers whenever possible, such as Hickory Nut Gap Farm and JMJ produce from Fairview; a fact they share with diners through a list

photographs by tiFFany Welsh

of local partners proudly displayed in the restaurant. And with classics like biscuits and gravy and eggs benedict for breakfast, to shrimp and grits and pork tenderloin for dinner, there is something to please everyone’s tastes.

With Chris’ background in upscale dining and Stephanie’s background in high-end bars they are the perfect duo, with Chris organizing the kitchen side of things and Stephanie managing the creative side. Stephanie is constantly scouring auctions and eBay for the quirky interior items - from large metal letters, which can be found on the walls spelling out “EAT LOCAL” to old filing cabinets, which she has turned into planters outside the restaurant.

The Local Joint doesn’t end there!

On the other side of the gas station the Sizemores have recently opened up the Joint Next Door, a small tap house serving only local beers. Stephanie has turned this place into something quite different. With repurposed wood covering the walls and an old bedspring holding the wine glasses at the bar, it is a really fun place to hang out. The Joint Next Door has live music, open mic nights, ladies nights and more -

and they keep it open late!

Things are going so well for Chris and Stephanie that they are now working on their next project called The BBQ Joint, which they hope to open on the hill behind the Local Joint this summer.

These days the Sizemores find themselves entrenched in the Fairview community to the point where their middle daughter thinks she is running the small town. Chris hopes that he and Stephanie are building something that will make available opportunites for his children to work, live and be a part of this community for many years to come. Based on his desire to see customers leaving with a smile, Chris finished by sharing his philosophy for the business, “yes is the answer, what’s your question?”

Emi Chiappa-Starnes released a cookbook Simply Italian with her Welsh-Italian sisters, and now teaches regular cooking classes at Dough on Merrimon Ave.

Put your $ where your ❤ is!

SPRING 2015 | FOODLIFEMAG.COM

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calendar / level, five-hour, exploratory workshop designed to help people who are seeking practical, common sense information on whether sustainable farming is the next step for them, and how to move forward. This is a great workshop to attend if you are in the exploratory stages of getting started farming. Admission is $55 organicgrowersschool.org

A PRI L Moth e r E a r t h N e w s Fai r April 11-12, 2015 at WNC Ag Center –Fletcher, NC Hundreds of regional and national vendors that feature sustainable lifestyle products and services.

More than 150 practical, hands-on demonstrations and workshops.

Admission is $25 motherearthnews.com/fair/ Sm o ky M o u n tai n O y s t e r & Se a f o o d F e st i val April 25, 2015 at French Broad Food Co-Op – Asheville, NC Over 30 vendors and educators will present a plethora of ideas and products, tentatively including: bee keeping, mushroom growing, poultry raising, mead making, permaculture, alternative energy sources, bread oven building, hops growing, alternative education, herbal medicine making, and fermentation.

The event exemplifies the Food Coop’s mission, to be a transformative force in the community, and two of the Co-op’s 7 Principles: Concern for Community, and Education. frenchbroadfood.coop/movementcenter/urban-homestead-fair

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C ar o lina M o unta in C h e ese Fe st April 26, 2015 at the Meadow, Highlands Brewing Company – Asheville, NC A celebration of southern cheese.

Explore the process from the field and farm to the dinner plate. Learn about the past, present and future of this ancient craft. Admission is $12 mountaincheesefest.com

m ay 2 6 t h Ann ua l Ashe ville Sp r i ng Her b Fest iva l May 1-3, 2015 at the WNC Farmers Market – Asheville, NC This long-running festival celebrates its 26th year. This is the largest festival of its kind in the Southeast.

Not only can you find every type of garden and cooking herb imaginable, you can also see how herbs are transformed into medicines, salves, balms, soaps and teas. Admission is FREE ashevilleherbfestival.com Far m Dr ea ms Wo r ksho p b y O rg a nic Gr o we r s Sc h oo l May 2, 2015 at the Buncombe Co Extension Office – Asheville, NC Are you dreaming of starting your own farm? Farm Dreams is an entry

11t h Ann ua l Ashe vi ll e Ar t isa n Br e a d Ba k ers Fest iva l May 2-3, 2015 at AB Tech – Asheville, NC Celebrating local farmers, millers and bakers, the bread festival will feature the talents of three of the most respected bakers in the United States: Lionel Vatinet, Peter Reinhart, and Jeff Yankellow. This two-day event offers an opportunity for bread enthusiasts and professional bakers to break bread together, to improve their baking skills, share ideas, and network within the artisan bread community. Admission is $10 per class and $30 for the evening reception. ashevillebreadfestival.com Ashe ville Beer Week May 22-30, 2015 – Asheville, NC It’s time to celebrate all things craft beer at Asheville Beer Week. Come see why 26 breweries were started here and still call Western North Carolina home. And, find out what drew Sierra Nevada, Oskar Blues and New Belgium to build second homes here. Asheville Beer Week will feature an amazing line-up of tastings, dinners, beer education and other beer-related fun (and nonsense).

Events are individual priced avlbeerweek.com 6t h Ann ua l Be e r Ci ty Fest iva l May 30, 2015 at Roger McGuire Field – Asheville, NC Dozens of breweries (and plenty of live music) will transform Roger McGuire Green into, oh, shall we say, beer paradise. Ticket information is available on their website avlbeerweek.com/beer-city-festival

photograph by tiffany welsh

SPRING 2015 | FOODLIFEMAG.COM

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FOODLIFEMAG.COM | SPRING 2015