The Explorer - Issue 03

I S S U E 03 | SP RIN G 2016

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A L ETTER FROM A LEX

Dear Traveller,

B

ack in January I took the first real holiday I’ve had in years. As someone who is constantly jetting around for work, I rarely get the luxury of travel being a relaxing experience. So, when I set off for a family trip to Argentina, I made a point of turning my ‘out of office’ on for the first time - well, ever.

I cannot stress the importance of allowing yourself time away from work - not just physically, but mentally. My two weeks in Argentina left me feeling like a new person by the time I returned - the ideal way to start the year.

I appreciate how hard it can be to switch off, which is why we’ve suggested some destinations that are perfect for a ‘digital detox’ on page 22. Some ‘real life’ examples are outlined in Ciara’s travel journal of her time in Antarctica (page 38) and Richard Mellor’s experiences in Peru’s Amazon rainforest (page 32).

In line with the ‘slow travel’ movement, we’ve also highlighted some of the world’s best luxury train journeys (page 14).

Travelling by train is an indulgence - most of us are time-poor these days, but train journeys celebrate the act of travelling itself.

For further inspiration about switching off and better appreciating your leisure time, our Asia expert Kate has suggested some of her favourite spa retreats in Asia, and we’ve also rounded up our top travel books, too.

If you really can’t face logging out of social media, then you might enjoy browsing some of our most Instagram-worthy experiences on page 36. From private access to some of the busiest tourist sites in the world to exclusive opportunities, these VIP experiences will be guaranteed to impress - even if you only share it with the person you’re with at the time.

Warm regards,

Alex Malcolm Founder & MD

THE EXPLORER | SPRING 2016 | 03

I N THI S I SSUE OF THE EX PLORER

FEATURES

P 0 8 B A R C E LO N A

P14 TRAINS

P 2 2 D I G I TA L D E TOX

P 3 2 P E R U V I A N A M A ZO N

Travel writer and Spain expert, Eddi Fiegel delves into Barcelona’s long history of cutting-edge design.

It can be hard to part ways with technology. Learn how to switch off in one of these remote, wild places.

We highlight four of the most luxurious train trips across the world, from Asia to Latin America.

Richard Mellor visits the Peruvian Amazon and finds it’s easier than he imagined to go with the flow.

CON T EN TS

06 HOT TICKETS: TIME TO BOOK YOUR NEXT TRIP 12 WHAT TO READ: THE BEST TRAVEL BOOKS 20 THE GUIDE: VENICE 36 BE EXTRAORD INARY: UBER-LUXURY EXPERIENCES 38 JACADA TRAVEL JOURNAL: ANTARCTICA 42 INSIDER GUIDE: BALI 46 GIVING BACK: UTHANDO, SOUTH AFRICA 48 TOP SPAS: THE BEST SPAS IN ASIA 50 LAST-MINUTE ESCAPES: GO NOW

CONTRIBUTO R S

CI ARA OWEN S LAT IN AMERICA & POL AR E XP E RT

ED D I F IEG E L TR AVE L W RI T ER

H E AT H E R RI C H A RDSO N ED I TO R

Ciara’s love affair with South America began in 2001 when she went to Ecuador to teach English and was captivated by the vibrancy of the culture, the friendliness of the people and living at high altitudes. Since then she has ventured all over the continent from Patagonia to Colombia, living and working in the Galápagos Islands and Chile.

Eddi is an award-winning travel and arts journalist and author. She lived in Barcelona for several years and has been smitten with all things Spanish and Catalan ever since, not least the food, wine and design. A fluent Spanish speaker, she now has family in the Costa Brava and Andalucía and swaps Britain’s grey climes for Spanish sunshine as often as she can.

Heather’s experience of travelling started at 18 years old with a trip to Ecuador and the Galápagos Islands, including a six-week stint in the rainforest. An award-winning writer and one of TTG’s 30 under 30, Heather combines her passion for travel with her creative credentials as Jacada Travel’s marketing and editorial manager. @hg_richardson

K AT E EDWA RDS A SIA E X PERT

R ACH EL E RD OS TR AVE L W RI T ER

RI C H A RD ME L LO R T RAV EL W RI T ER

It was during Kate’s regular trips to Asia when she lived in Australia that she first discovered her love for this continent. Numerous trips back to the region have taken her trekking in the Nepalese Himalayas; exploring Myanmar; re-discovering the charms of Indochina; and island-hopping around her beloved Indonesia.

Rachel Erdos is a freelance travel writer and editor. Following stints at the Guardian, Jetsetter, Travelzoo and Eurostar (plus summers serving afternoon tea in an Austrian chalet and frozen yoghurt in North Carolina), she found her penchant for posh hotels and travels the world to find them. @rachelerdos

Richard is a London-based writer for the Times, Guardian and BBC among others.

Initially starting his career in travel PR, he soon realised that he preferred writing about foreign shores to showing them to smug journalists, and quickly swapped sides. He’s never regretted it, although his accountant remains angry. @dick_mellor

THE EXPLORER | SPRING 2016 | 05

hot tickets

CELEBRATE THANKSGIVING OR NEW YEAR’S EVE IN PATAGONIA

Escape for the holidays to the wilderness of Chile’s beautiful Torres del Paine National Park.

NOVEMBER 2016 >>> DECEMBER 2016

BOOK N OW

DECEMBER 2016

SPEND CHRISTMAS AS A FAMILY IN THAILAND

Availability is tight during peak season in Thailand and it’s worth booking ahead to secure a well-deserved family getaway to these sunny shores.

SEPTEMBER 2016 >>> NOVEMBER 2016

ADMIRE JAPAN’S AUTUMN LEAVES

One of the most popular seasons in Japan, the fall leaves make this scenic country all the more beautiful. Generally, six months ahead is the minimum booking period.

THE EXPLORER | SPRING 2016 | 07

W

BARCELONA’S GOT STYLE Eddi Fiegel looks back at the Catalan capital’s history of design.

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midst the meandering Medieval lanes of Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter, enticing patisseries are two a penny, but few are as staggeringly contemporary as Bubó – one of the city’s most celebrated chocolatiers and patissiers. Gazing through the windows, I’m mesmerised by an immaculately square, layered chocolate mousse cake with what looks like a totemic chocolate ring or bracelet standing upright above a rectangle of coral-coloured mousse. Alongside it there are fruit tarts so artfully constructed they likewise look like they should be in the Tate Modern rather than a confectionery shop.

Just around the corner, the Pastelería Hofmann cake store has equally stunning creations - but then striking design is par for the course here. Walk into any of the tantalisingly chic restaurants, hotels or bars and your eye will be caught by the interiors, from ornate wooden Art Nouveau pharmacy counters to the sleek, industrial charcoals and yellows of celebrity chef Carles Abellan’s Comerç 24 restaurant. Likewise, from the surreal faux Gothic of Gaudí’s Sagrada Família to the shimmering, skyscraping, mirrored glass of the W hotel on the waterfront, the city’s skyline is dominated by eye-catching architecture.

DESIGN IN THE DNA

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s much as their language, their flag or their football team, design is part of Catalan DNA. Consequently, much more than Madrid or indeed any other part of Spain, Barcelona is internationally renowned as one of the world’s major centres for pioneering, outstanding design.

Little wonder then that Barcelona is the location for Spain’s first Design Museum – a grand-scale project housing some 2,000 exhibits over four floors and bringing together four major collections of textile design and fashion, graphic design, ceramics and decorative arts. Looking something like London’s National Theatre had it been designed by Gaudí, this top-heavy, grey, industrial oddity with floor-to-ceiling glass walls and clear-sided escalators, sits alongside Jean Nouvel’s, rainbow-hued, Gherkinstyle Torre Agbar tower, on the eastern outskirts of Barcelona in a part of town known mainly for its Spaghetti Junction-style flyover and sprawling flea market.

The impressive collection, which opened in December 2014, pulls together a fantastic range of creations from an 18th-century wooden gilt carriage and elegant 19th-century crinoline gowns THE EXPLORER | SPRING 2016 | 09

PREVIOUS PAGE, MAIN IMAGE: GAUDÍ CERAMICS. PREVIOUS PAGE, TOP RIGHT: A CAKE FROM BUBÓ. THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: LA PEDRERA; PALAU DE LA MÚSICA; CASA BATLLÓ; DESIGN MUSEUM. OPPOSITE: BENCHES AT PARK GÜELL

Palau de la Música concert hall, with its stunning floral pillars and ornate stained glass dome, easily rivals any of Gaudí’s masterpieces.

BARCELONA REDISCOVERED

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to a 1966 Paco Rabanne go-go dress made from plastic, steel and aluminium rings. The product design is no less fascinating.

Almost every aspect of modern life is represented here, from a Seat Ibiza car, cutlery from the renowned elBulli restaurant, bicycles and Pop Art-style chairs to Catalan designer Rafael Marquina’s 1961 olive oil dispenser (a glass, conical bottle with an anti-drip spout, now ubiquitous in stylish homes). There are also wonderful posters from the 1920s and ‘30s onwards and similarly evocative packaging design.

THE HISTORY OF STYLE

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he power of design in Catalonia and in Barcelona in particular dates back to the Industrial Revolution of the 19th century. As Pilar Vélez, Director of the Design Museum says: “There were two factors behind this: the importance of the Industrial Revolution and Catalonia’s proximity to France and the rest of Europe.”

With the exception of the Basque Country, Catalonia was the part of Spain in which the Industrial Revolution took the biggest hold, with factories springing up across the region. The boom created a generation of business magnates keen to create bold, modern warehouses, factories, businesses and homes. The newfound wealth led to a fresh sense of civic pride and prompted the commissioning of a wave of buildings by an outstandingly talented generation of architects, such as Gaudí.

Gaudí’s fantastical creations are obviously world-famous and his La Pedrera apartment block and Park Güell are still highlights of the city, but there were also equally important and talented architects such as the prolific Domènech i Montaner, whose

esign remained important throughout the following decades, but the city’s international reputation faded during General Franco’s dictatorship. It wasn’t until the late 1980s that Barcelona once again began to cause an international stir and Britain’s then-fashionable ‘style press’ in magazines such as The Face and iD ‘discovered’ Barcelona and branded it the world’s hippest city.

Journalists found that not only did Barcelona have stunning Art Nouveau architecture, but that during the mid to late ‘80s, a new wave of bares de disseny, aka ‘design bars’, had sprung up, any one of which would have caused a major sensation elsewhere in Europe.

Incorporating the elements which we now take for granted in new bars and restaurants – stylish, cutting-edge design with a nod to retro elegance, moody lighting and hip, good-looking staff - these bars were effortlessly cool and understated. But they were also continuing the city’s long-standing tradition of design.

For those who hadn’t yet cottoned on to Barcelona’s reemergence, the 1992 Olympics changed that irrevocably.

Suddenly, the world was introduced to a city with spectacular stadia in the Olympic Village, a mascot – Cobi, the graffiti dog, created by designer and architect Javier Mariscal – and a highly sophisticated opening ceremony full of style, verve and aplomb.

Anyone who still thought of the city as a parochial Spanish backwater had to think again.

Since then, Catalan design has continued to capture the world’s attention and is still renowned for its pioneering excellence.

THE CITY TODAY

S

o, where should design lovers head on a visit to Barcelona?

Simple. Almost any quality restaurant or boutique in the hip El Born part of the Gothic Quarter or virtually anywhere along the Bond Street-style deluxe shops of Paseo de Gràcia and Rambla de Catalunya – just a ten-minute stroll from Las Ramblas.

Also not to be missed is a visit to BD Barcelona Design, a stunningly converted warehouse showcasing furniture, art and design of all kinds, where you can buy your own piece of Gaudí or Dalí as well as art by the most prestigious contemporary designers and architects. And when you’ve had your fill? There are always some state-of-the-art cakes and chocolates at Bubó or Hofmann.

PACK YOUR BAGS Luxury Exploration of Spain >> Ten nights travelling through Madrid, Seville, Grenada & Barcelona – from $8,200 per person.

THE EXPLORER | SPRING 2016 | 11

BOOKS

WHAT TO REA D Travel has inspired some of the greatest novels of all time. Here are just some of our personal favourites.

T HE GREAT RA I LWAY BAZAAR

BY PAU L T HEROUX

One of the finest travel writers, Theroux’s debut novel, published in 1975, recalls his four-month journey from Europe, through the Middle East and into Asia by train. From the iconic rail lines of India and the famous Trans-Siberian Railway to more obscure routes through Iran and Myanmar, Theroux writes of the places he visits and the people he meets in this travel literature classic.

T HE SHA D OW O F T H E SUN

BY RYSZA RD KA PU ŚC IŃSKI

H OMAG E TO C ATA LO N I A

BY G EO RG E O RW E L L

Published in 1938, Orwell’s account of Barcelona during the Spanish Civil War – in which he fought until a bullet through the throat sent him home to Britain – is unforgettable.

His writing is both political and autobiographical, as well as being tragically prophetic: upon reaching England, Orwell wrote that the country seemed to be ‘sleeping’ through the growing tension in Europe and he feared ‘we shall never wake till we are jerked out of it by the roar of bombs’.

I N PATAGO NI A

BY B RU CE CHAT WI N

Chatwin’s travels through Patagonia are interwoven with legends of the area, historic facts and geographical explanations. The writer recorded his six-month trip around the southern region of Argentina and Chile in an unusual way, breaking the boundaries of what was considered a travelogue.

His writing is more of a musing, his story meandering through Patagonia just as the writer himself did.

Kapuściński was a foreign correspondent in Africa for close to 30 years. The Shadow of the Sun records the end of colonial rule throughout the continent, from Nigeria to Rwanda. During his time in Africa, Kapuściński immersed himself in the places he visited, living in slums, wrestling snakes and surviving malaria. A fascinating and unique novel, full of vivid description and astute observations, The Shadow of the Sun offers an insight to various groups of people, cultures and politics around the African continent.

T HE L I S T

TH E S U N A L SO R I S E S

BY ERNES T H EM I N G WAY

N OT ES FRO M A SMA L L I SL A ND

BY B I L L B RYSO N

J U PI T ER’S T RAVE LS

BY T ED SI MO N

A story about American expats in Europe in the wake of World War I, Hemingway’s The Sun Also Rises is considered one of his best novels.

The scenes he describes throughout Paris and Spain capture the essence of western Europe during the 1920s, from the cafes of Paris to the bullring of Pamplona.

Bryson’s travel writing is light-hearted and humorous. This novel centres on Great Britain, as Bryson records his observations – sometimes touching, sometimes unflinchingly disparaging - during a trip around the whole country, which was taken just before the author returned home to the US after over 20 years in Britain.

Simon took four years to cover 45 countries on the back of his Triumph Tiger motorbike. Starting in Africa in 1973, Simon travelled from Tunis to Cape Town before heading over to South America, around Australia, and then up to Asia reaching Europe via India, Afghanistan and the Middle East.

T HE B EACH

BY A L EX GA RL A ND

An iconic travel novel (though Garland describes it as ‘anti-traveller in a lot of ways’), its popularity boosted by the film adaptation starring Leonardo DiCaprio, The Beach is responsible for encouraging a boom of backpackers heading to Thailand’s beautiful Koh Phi Phi and the surrounding islands. The novel follows a British backpacker who seeks an untouched paradise.

Although the story is based in Thailand, a destination which Garland thought more suited the tale of escapism and his characters, the location itself is based on the shores of El Nido in Palawan.

TRAV EL LI TERAT U R E TO U R S B OTS WANA WI T H A L E X A N D E R MCCA L L S M I T H

Discover Botswana with the author of The No.1 Ladies’ Detective Agency, Alexander McCall Smith from 10th - 16th November 2016. Email us (enquiries@jacadatravel. com) for more details on this special, author-led tour.

30 Y EARS OF O U T O F A F R I C A

In the 30th year of the iconic film Out of Africa, explore the Laikipia Plateau and the legendary Maasai Mara. See the original 1929 biplane used in the film, Karen Blixen’s private journals and unpublished letters, and enjoy a classic Out of Africa-style picnic.

THE EXPLORER | SPRING 2016 | 13

FOLLOWING TRACKS Train travel is all about the journey. Heather Richardson suggests some of the greatest luxury train trips around the world.

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omething about travelling by train evokes a great sense of romance and escapism. It affords one time to think and celebrates the journey itself. From the Andes to the tropics, here are four of the world’s best luxury trains.

“Life is a journey, not a destination.”

- Ralph Waldo Emerson

THE EASTERN & ORIENTAL EXPRESS SINGAPORE - BANGKOK

Rolling through the lush valleys of Southeast Asia, the Eastern & Oriental Express travels between Singapore and Bangkok, two of the region’s major cities. From the plush carriages, you’ll see farmers working in the fields, watch the mist drift up from the forests as the sun rises, and wave to the children who live alongside the train tracks.

In the evening, as your beds are turned down, you can enjoy fine

dining in one of the three restaurant cars, sip your nightcap in the piano bar, and watch a local dance performance. The train stops for regular excursions along the way.

How long: Either three or four days When: January-April; SeptemberDecember

E&O Express and Koh Kood Beaches – seven nights travelling from Singapore to Bangkok with some beach relaxation to finish - from $11,870 per person.

CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN: EASTERN & ORIENTAL TRAIN; THE HIRAM BINGHAM. PREVIOUS SPREAD: EASTERN & ORIENTAL

THE HIRAM BINGHAM

PHOTOS:

CUSCO - MACHU PICCHU

One of the most iconic train journeys in the world, the Hiram Bingham is named after the US explorer who rediscovered Machu Picchu, the ancient Incan citadel, back in 1911.

For those who do not have the time – or the desire – to hike, taking the train to Machu Picchu on board the Hiram Bingham is by far the most comfortable way to journey to this ancient site, hidden high in the mistshrouded Andes.

The blue and gold Hiram Bingham is designed in the style of the 1920s Pullman cars with shiny brass and

wooden panels, evoking the romance of travel and exploration in the early 20th century. The open-air observatory means you don’t miss out on the unspoilt, rural scenery, and when the sun goes down, there are endless pisco sours and live music to be enjoyed.

How long: Approximately four hours When: Year-round (though from January-April, the train departs from Poroy Station, 25 minutes’ drive from Cusco)

Luxury, Private Peru Tour – seven nights in Peru, including the Hiram Bingham train from the Sacred Valley to Machu Picchu – from $5,390 per person.

THE EXPLORER | SPRING 2016 | 17

CLOCKWISE FROM MAIN: VENICE SIMPLON-ORIENTEXPRESS; ROVOS RAIL; VICTORIA FALLS

PHOTOS: BELMOND; ROVOS RAIL

VENICE SIMPLON-ORIENT-EXPRESS LONDON - VENICE

Arguably the most iconic train in the world, the Venice Simplon-OrientExpress journeys through Europe, with its most famous route being between London and Venice. Other destination options include Paris, Berlin, Prague, Budapest, Vienna and Istanbul.

The train still has the original 1920s cars with Art Deco furnishings.

Naturally, there’s a Champagne bar and a piano bar in which to while away the evening. Make sure you spend the daytime soaking up as much of that French countryside as possible and wake early to find yourself rushing past Switzerland’s sublime lakes and mountains.

How long: One night on the LondonVenice route When: March to October

Venice Simplon-Orient-Express and Grand Tour of Italy – an 18-day, bucket list luxury tour of Italy – from $26,000 per person.

ROVOS RAIL CAPE TOWN - VICTORIA FALLS

The Rovos Rail train has several different routes through Africa, from the classic Pretoria to Cape Town journey to the epic Cape Town to Dar es Salaam in Tanzania. There’s also a route between South Africa and Namibia, and one to Victoria Falls.

The lavishly appointed train carries a maximum of 72 guests, indulges passengers in high tea and fivecourse, wine-pairing dinners, and makes regular stops along the way. On the Pretoria to Cape Town route, which of course runs in both directions, you’ll stop at the Big Hole at Kimberley, the world’s largest excavation,the Diamond Mine Museum, and the historic village of Matjiesfontein. Aside from the opulence of travelling in this style, passengers also get to see places they would normally miss on a South African holiday.

How long: Three days on the PretoriaCape Town route When: Year-round

Game, Trains, Wine and Waterfalls – 14-night trip from Cape Town to Victoria Falls – from $9,756 per person.

THE EXPLORER | SPRING 2016 | 19

V ENI C E Rich in history and culture, Venice is an iconic European city. To get the most out of a trip to these islands, learn how to beat the crowds and discover the insider track to one of the world’s most famous cities.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: VENICE FROM ABOVE; A GONDELIER ON THE GRAND CANAL; VENETIAN STREET CAFE; VENICE’S BIRDS; BASILICA SANTA MARIA DELLA SALUTE; BURANO

WHAT TO DO

O

ne of the most romantic cities in Europe, images of Venice are instantly recognisable all over the world.

From the narrow, shadowy canals to Piazza San Marco, these iconic sights make visiting Venice seem sometimes surreal. Around the main islands are smaller, further-out isles. Burano is known for its lace making and multicoloured buildings. When the residents want to repaint their houses, they must apply for permission from the local authorities, who will assess whether the colour is appropriate. Nearby Murano is where you’ll find glass-blowing workshops. But there’s a lesser known side to Venice, too: the yards where the iconic gondolas are carefully crafted, and the student quarters where the locals socialise over cicheti – Venetianstyle small dishes served with drinks in the early evening – outside by the canals. The key to enjoying Venice is to find the insider track.

Don’t just sit in a gondola like all the other tourists – learn how to row your own instead. On a quiet canal in Cannaregio – the northern part of Venice – practise your technique under the watchful eye of a skilled gondolier. It takes three years to become a licensed gondolier, so don’t expect it to be easy!

After that exertion, take it easy with lunch at one of Venice’s fantastic osterie. An osteria is a restaurant serving

simple, local food with a short menu of traditional dishes. Try risotto, a typical Venetian dish, due to the fact that when the city was a centre for trade, Venetians were wealthy enough to buy rice from Arabia.

Next, try your hand at making your own Venetian mask at a traditional workshop.

Learn about the origins of the masks and the different types, from those prostitutes used to wear to visit their

THE G UI D E

INSIDER TRICKS

• As soon as you sit down, your coffee can cost anything up to €10, but when you stand, the cost is capped between €1 and €1.50.

• Make sure you buy only from local craftspeople, rather than falling prey to the made-in-China offerings that line the streets in the most popular areas of Venice.

• Get lost: this is the best way to explore Venice if you have the time. When you find yourself in a crowded street, duck down the next side lane you find. It’s amazing how suddenly the noise dies away.

• If you don’t have the time for a full 45-minute gondola ride, simply hop on a traghetto: a gondola ‘ferry’ that takes people from one side of the Grand Canal to the other. If you do opt or the full gondola experience, try a cruise in the more peaceful San Polo instead of the ever-busy San Marco.

WHEN TO GO

clients to the variety created for doctors when the plague hit Venice.

April to early June and September to late October are the best months to visit Venice. The city is very busy during

the summer and throughout holidays such as Christmas and Easter. In the winter, Venice is often flooded.

PACK YOUR BAGS Luxury Private Tour of Italy >> A 13-night tour through Rome, Venice, Florence and the Amalfi Coast – from $7,542 per person.

THE EXPLORER | SPRING 2016 | 21

SWITCH OFF

Learn to live in the moment with a digital detox. Heather Richardson selects four destinations that lend themselves to ditching technology.

L

ast year, a photograph of a man sat on a sailing boat hunched over his phone went viral. A local photographer, Eric Smith, snapped several pictures of the man - absorbed in the contents on his phone and oblivious to his surroundings - as a humpback whale and her calf calmly surfaced right next to his boat. As Smith watched, the man never once looked up from his phone and the whales passed by completely unnoticed.

Most of us spend too much time staring at our phones, laptops or tablets. In 2014, a survey suggested that Brits spend more time using technology than we spend sleeping.

In the US last year, 21% of Americans said they are online ‘almost constantly’.

On the train, at work, on the sofa in the evening: these might be times during which using your phone or being online is appropriate. Travelling is a different story. In a world where the days we spend away from work and the daily grind are precious, how much of that time do we waste checking emails, selecting Instagram filters for a beautiful scene we only saw through our lens, or pouring over the goings on back home?

It can be hard to switch off. But when you do, you’ll remember that experiences are much more powerful when you’re not taking them in from your smartphone screen.

Photos are great memories, but you only need one, if any, to recall a special moment.

Sit and watch as the rising sun turns the sky to burnt orange; listen to the deep growl of a male lion and feel it reverberate in your chest; stare out to the endless horizon from the deck of your boat, sipping a chilled Chenin Blanc; let a cool breeze stroke your face through the open window of a train chugging between emerald paddy fields. These are the moments that make travelling worth it.

Here are some destinations wonderfully suited to unplugging.

DIGITAL D ETOX

BOTSWANA

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country known for its untouched, undeveloped spaces, Botswana demands your full and undivided attention. With a country-wide policy that encourages low-impact tourism, environmental awareness and a fierce anti-poaching programme, Botswana’s wild has been allowed to stay just that.

On a mobile safari – the most authentic kind of safari – in the famous wildlife-rich Okavango Delta, there is no Wi-Fi, no phone signal, and no power outlet. Electronic pinging is replaced by the chirping of birds. Leave your phone behind; you won’t miss it. You’ll be too busy watching hippos wallow in the shallows, elephants cooling off in the water, wild dogs hunting, leopards snoozing in a crook of a tree, and the brilliantly coloured malachite kingfishers dive after fish.

After your safari, head to the otherworldly terrain that is the Makgadikgadi Pans. These barren salt flats are home to a handful of camps, including the luxurious Jack’s Camp. Deliberately designed to enable guests to truly escape the modern world, Jack’s has no Wi-Fi, though it does have quad bikes which guests can use to zip across the salt pans. Local bushmen teach guests how to hunt using a bow and arrow. At night, the sky becomes a thick blanket of glittering stars.

A Digital Detox Safari in Botswana – five nights mobile camping in the Okavango Delta followed by three nights in the Makgadikgadi Pans – from $9,937 per person.

THE EXPLORER | SPRING 2016 | 25

DIGITAL D ETOX PATAGONIA

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ast year, New Yorker Jim called Latin America expert George Warren, and simply asked for remote, solitary hiking to counter his busy life in the city.

George organised a trip to Torres del Paine in Chile’s Patagonia region, planning a couple of hikes outside the national park. Upon his return to New York, Jim emailed George with his feedback: “Loved the two hikes outside the park. Truly amazing and saw zero people on the trail with me. Ahhhh, total peace and solitude.”

PHOTO: AWASI PATAGONIA

Sometimes a few days by ourselves is all it takes to create some headspace and recalibrate. Patagonia’s epic, dramatic scenery – the type the Romantic poets wrote about on the topic of the sublime – provides a suitable backdrop for such meditation. Getting out of the national parks and onto some of the lesser known trails is the key to feeling as though you have this rugged and cinematic background all to yourself. Let a gaucho guide you on a horseback gallop across the plains with the brisk wind sweeping away your problems, before restoring the warmth to your extremities with a large glass of South American wine by the open fire of your lodge.

THE EXPLORER | SPRING 2016 | 27

ANTARCTICA

I

f there is any place that will put everything in perspective, it’s Antarctica.

Ciara Owens, polar and Latin America expert said of her expedition cruise around the White Continent, “I felt so incredibly lucky, but I also felt humbled.” It goes without saying that Wi-Fi is mostly non-existent on the boats that venture to these waters.

One of the most remote places you can visit, Antarctica feels like a different planet. Looming cliffs of ice tower over the frigid sea, whilst great icebergs drift almost imperceptibly. Very few people are privileged enough to see this place in person, which makes it all the more important to soak up every second, every sight and every sound.

Read Ciara’s Antarctica travel journal on page 38.

DIGITAL D ETOX

THE EXPLORER | SPRING 2016 | 29

PHOTO: ALILA PURNAMA

DIGITA L D ETOX

INDONESIA

C

ruising around the turquoise waters of far-flung Indonesian islands, signal strength should be the last thing on your mind. Beneath the water’s glimmering surface, huge manta rays glide and vibrant shoals of fish flit around the coral reefs. Empty, golden beaches await your footprints. On the Komodo Islands, the giant, eponymous monitors dwell.

Stop to enjoy a picnic lunch of barbecued seafood in a deserted cove, before sailing off to the night’s resting place in time for sunset over the Indonesian sea.

Get immersed in that book you’ve never made time to read, or simply while away the days chatting and watching the world go by.

THE EXPLORER | SPRING 2016 | 31

GO WITH THE

flow

Richard Mellor revels in the slow pace of life along the river banks of the Peruvian Amazon rainforest.

“C

aiman” says Hugo, our guide.

Or might do. I’m not completely sure.

We’re floating along Peru’s Rio Madre de Dios, a major Amazon tributary.

In the dark, the banks are but vague, inky shapes, discernible only thanks to a platter of stars above. No one in our six-strong group has spoken for ten minutes. The motorboat’s engine has been killed, Hugo is sporadically shining a power torch at different locations, and mysterious, faceless beasts ripple the water every so often. It is still and suggestive.

“Caiman,” says Hugo, definitely says Hugo.

His kitten-soft voice is the sort chiefly owned by hypnotists. Every word seems to contain an element of tacit apology to the nature he is so regretfully having to disturb, courtesy of some gringos who’ve barely seen a rabbit, let alone a caiman. Still, I silently retort, better us than illegal loggers or gold-miners who deliberately come to scar the jungle.

My mind’s drifting off, flowing freely like the river beneath me. This is the delightful quietude that the Amazonian rainforest has effected on me: a complete loss of hurry and worry, of ‘must see this’ or ‘not enough’ of that. Not bad in just over a day… *** We materialise in the mid-afternoon: a 55-minute flight from Cusco to the rubberboom town of Puerto Maldonado, half an hour’s van-ride past shack-cafes and mopeds carrying entire families, and a 45-minute boat transfer.

Then at last, lining the chocolate-coloured river, is Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica. You traverse this 35-room eco-retreat, we find out, by

THE EXPLORER | SPRING 2016 | 33

“Forced to slow down, I notice curious details: the way a shake of one tree passes to another, a tense exchange between two invisible parrots.”

walkways one at the time, our circuit is gradual and contemplative, allowing ample time for observation. Forced to slow down, I notice curious details: the way a shake of one tree passes to another, a tense exchange between two invisible parrots.

At dusk, our group head up and across the river to the neighbouring Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion’s estate. Squeezed into a long dugout canoe, we are soon being paddled about the soupy, oxbow-shaped Lago Sandoval. We duck low-hanging vines, and jump pathetically as a leaping arowana fish lands on a lap. The gentle splashes of Hugo’s oar strokes are interrupted by squawks from large birds with eccentrically-coiffed orange plumage: hoatzins, Hugo reveals admiringly. “They survive almost from dinosaur times.”

From primeval to primate, I spot a mob of rust-coloured howler monkeys descending a tree. Everyone is silent, and Hugo smiles, enigmatically. “Yes,” he says at last, and we paddle on.

On the walk back we – as in Hugo – spy a sloth, high in the tree above, lifelessly living up to his name, a stationary brown ball of torpor.

I’m scarcely any more animated myself that

PHOTOS: ISTOCK; INKATERRA

stepping along circular slices of tree trunk, laid on the squelchy ground.

After depositing bags and changing into shorts – the sun isn’t out, but the jungle is sweltering – our travelling quartet reunite in the excursions lodge, and first meet Hugo. He is small, like so many Peruvians, and resilient-looking, the kind of man who uses every part of his Swiss army knife. Methodically, plaintively, Hugo outlines the numerous activity choices, almost all of them included in our board. The list seems to go on forever: evening walks around Inkaterra’s 12,000-hectare reserve, kayak-based wetland explorations, even plantain flour-making lessons at a local farm.

We choose first the resort’s flagship experience: a 300-metre circuit of seven canopy walkways, each 25-30 metres high. These are essentially the rope bridges of Indiana Jones films, but the utterly-safe, high-sided variety, rather than the kind that disintegrate just as Indy’s – quick – jump! – almost across. Unless you’re a vertigo-sufferer, they aren’t scary. Nor are they particularly prolific in terms of wildlife: we spy nothing bigger than a grizzly grasshopper.

But it is lovely, being up there, amongst the trees. With rules dictating we walk the

evening. We spend hours over dinner in the central two-floor pavilion – meeting other guests, sipping absurdly refreshing pisco sours, eating grilled fish – because, well, why rush?

It’s not like we need to make it home for Match of the Day. When I do finally return to my thatched, spacious cabana, I loll in a hammock on the veranda, behind a gauze of mosquito netting, and listen to the jungle’s exotic night orchestra.

Eventually, sighing contentedly, I retreat inside, using my paraffin lamp – electricity’s only available for a few daytime hours – and sink into a big double bed.

I try to rise for first light. No go: turns out that sunrise happens very early in the Amazon; it’s 4.30am and I’ve already missed it. Still, no one else is up, and the morning’s lovely and cool. Sauntering around, I watch a red squirrel stashing Brazil nuts, and a long trail of worker ants, some carrying leafage three times their size. While they’re working intensely, the adjacent river appears becalmed. I effortlessly begin to meditate beside it, aided by a nowincessant dawn chorus. A passing fisherman glances over, faintly inclining his head.

I couldn’t be more relaxed, although, actually, it turns out I could. The afternoon sees me

supine in one of two wooden treatment huts, the river lapping just a coconut’s throw away.

My massage utilises mint and the medicinal copaiba plant, and any last traces of tension vanish. With every firm stroke, I forsake my urgent desire for Wi-Fi or the Strictly Come Dancing results. There’s nothing that can’t wait.

Why waste energy hoping for things I can’t have? Over me floods the tremendous relief of simply accepting my circumstances, rather than constantly wishing them different. *** “Caiman,” Hugo whispers for a third time. We keenly peer, following his torch beam to a spot 30 metres away. I see water, more water, some floating logs, a bottle, more water. But no, hang on, that last log just moved its eye. Turns out it’s not a log at all, because logs don’t have eyes, but rather the bobbing head of a sleek caiman, hunting from the shallows and looking seriously miffed at having its cover blown. Heaven knows how Hugo spied it.

I do nothing. It’s a bit dark for photos, and I don’t really fancy taking one anyway, despite some distant, nagging, automaton impetus that I should do. Instead, I just sit there contentedly, beaming at the caiman, thrilled to see it.

PACK YOUR BAGS Peru Adventure Vacation >> 11 nights in the Sacred Valley, Machu Picchu and the Peruvian Amazon – from $4,610 per person.

THE EXPLORER | SPRING 2016 | 35

DE S TI NATION INSPIRATION

BE EXTRAORDINARY Feeling flash? There are some experiences that only a select few will be able to sample. Enjoy exclusive access as a Jacada Travel VIP.

DINNER WITH MICHELANGELO’S DAVID, ITALY

If you’re looking to impress your friends or perhaps you have a big birthday or anniversary on the horizon, don’t settle for a fancy new restaurant or a villa on a Caribbean island. At Florence’s Galleria dell’Accademia, you can hire the whole museum for a VIP dinner at the foot of Michelangelo’s David. After dinner, take advantage of having the place to yourself and wander around the museum to admire the Italian artworks and sculptures.

PRIVATE OPERA PERFORMANCE IN A VOLCANO CRATER WITH CANAPES AND CHAMPAGNE, ICELAND

From your base in a lodge so exclusive it has no name, take a helicopter to the dormant Thrihnukagigur volcano. Head into the magma chamber of the crater, where you’ll find Champagne and canapes awaiting your arrival. The natural acoustics of the chamber make it perfect for an operatic performance, which you can enjoy as you sip your fizz, before heading back to the lodge for a soak in the hot springs.

UNDERWATER EXCAVATION, CROATIA

Off the coast of Croatia, a small village has been discovered dating back 3,000 years. During the Ottoman-Venetian War from 1570 to 1573, the village was abandoned and slowly sank. For a few lucky people, there is the opportunity to assist with the underwater excavation in specially organised archaeological tours.

So far, thousands of pieces of broken pottery and bone and wooden tools have been found, and ancient wooden pylons have been uncovered, too.

PRIVATE DINING AT THE ANGKOR TEMPLES, CAMBODIA

If you’ve ever wanted to experience the Angkor temples without the crowds and happen to have a spare $11,000, then this is for you. After the complex has closed to the public, you can enjoy a private evening of food and entertainment in one of the ancient Angkor temples, illuminated by candles and spotlights. As this is your night, you can call the shots. If you want Apsara dancing, that can be arranged. Would you prefer a completely undisturbed, romantic dinner? No problem.

No matter how you prefer to dine, this experience is the ultimate in bucket-list experiences.

ULTRA-LUXURY PRIVATE BOAT CHARTER, ANTARCTICA

The Enigma offers one of the most lavish cruising experiences in the world. This six-cabin boat sails all around the world, but nowhere does it seem more luxurious than in the remote waters around the Antarctic Peninsula. For a cool $450,000, up to 12 guests get spacious, comfortable suites, 21 staff members to hand, an on-deck Jacuzzi, and will be able to do what they want without the need to follow a programme like noncharter cruises. Aside from kayaking, hiking, visiting penguin colonies and taking Zodiac rides, you can also invite scientists from an Antarctic research facility for dinner on board the Enigma to really learn about this fascinating, fragile continent.

DINNER IN HOUSE OF NAVARRE PALACE WITH A DESCENDANT OF EL CID, SPAIN

This castle was built by the Knights Templar, but is now a 33-room heirloom of the Royal House of Navarre.

It is considered one of the most beautiful houses in Spain. You’re here to dine with the first-born son of the Marqués de Legarda, and a descendant of the legendary chevalier El Cid. Your VIP access allows you to break all the usual rules and pick up and examine some of the priceless relics dating from the 12th to the 19th centuries.

Join your host for dinner in one of the palace’s rooms - complete with enormous medieval dining table and antique linens and silver.

THE EXPLORER | SPRING 2016 | 37

JAC ADA TRAVEL JOURNAL

ANTARCTICA Ciara Owens, polar and Latin America expert, writes about her life-changing trip to Antarctica.

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s I lay in my hand-built snowbunker and bivvy bag with nothing between me and the twinkling stars, I heard a far-off rumble. I sat bolt upright and watched as, in the distance and gleaming through the dark, an avalanche of snow tumbled down a cliff and into the sea with a faint roar that carried across the deserted landscape.

I sat alone, gazing out into the darkness, as my fellow expeditioners from our boat slept peacefully through the polar night.

That night spent camping on the ice was one of the highlights of my trip to Antarctica.

I’d chosen to sail across the Drake Passage to reach Antarctica. You can fly in, but for me, the journey was all part of the adventure. On our trip towards the peninsula, we were blessed with excellent conditions. The passage is known as the ‘Drake Lake’ when it’s this placid.

Lectures prepared us for what we were about to see, from the wildlife to the environment. We read about explorers, such as Shackleton, whose stories inspired our own – somewhat easier – travels.

Following in their wake, the long, twoday journey eased us into this new world, adding to the spirit of exploration and travel.

The first time we saw an iceberg was as exciting as you’d expect, though by the end of the trip our memory cards were full of much more dramatic scenes.

CAPTURING THE MOMENT

C

amping on the ice for a night was one way to maximise my one-on-one time with this otherworldly destination. In a

slightly more dramatic effort to throw myself into the experience, I had to take the ‘polar plunge’. The hardiest members of our team raced down the black-sand beach and hurled ourselves into the water for a few flesh-numbing seconds – though seriously icy, the sea temperature wasn’t quite as shocking as I was anticipating, perhaps because the volcanic sand absorbed some of the sun’s heat. Getting out of the water to be faced with the biting wind was quite another matter.

We were in Antarctica during the penguins’ nesting season, so we got to watch them engaging in their courtship rituals, the males presenting the females with pebbles, and the pair carefully transferring their egg between one another. As we watched mini dramas unfold and spats rectified, it felt like

watching a penguin soap opera.

Other moments were much simpler.

Our Zodiac drivers would kill the engines as we journeyed to land for our next tour, so we could just sit and take in the surroundings, absorbing the silence. On a clear day, I felt like I’d stumbled into a painting, so surreal was the landscape.

The water was like a mirror, perfectly reflecting the giant snowy cliffs, the ice glittering in the sunlight. It felt like being on a different planet.

At times like these, I would try and soak it up as much as I could. I started writing down my thoughts in an effort to put that feeling of being somewhere so seemingly unearthly into words, but it’s difficult to express. Before I travelled to Antarctica, I didn’t have any solid expectations. I certainly did not expect to be so moved by

temperatures and monitor changes, taking advantage of their regular access to the continent. This too helped bring home how minute changes in the world (a global temperature change of just 2°C, for example) can impact this region.

Contrasting with the sense of solitude I experienced in the White Continent, there was also a great comradery amongst all of us on the boat, perhaps as a result of sharing such a special experience. We bonded quickly, as the only people notably present in this remote corner of the world. Our phones had no signal; there was no Wi-Fi. Instead, we were forced to plug into the present, to our immediate surroundings.

A FRAGILE ENVIRONMENT

“It took me a while to absorb everything I’d seen and experienced. I felt so incredibly lucky, but I also felt humbled.”

my experiences there.

SENSE OF RESPONSIBILITY

PHOTOS: CIARA OWENS

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side from the sheer awe I felt, I couldn’t stop thinking about how everything we do up in ‘the real world’ impacts on these areas of wilderness. I was left feeling a sense of responsibility I hadn’t really felt so keenly before. This seemed like much more than a tourist destination – it was a lesson. The guides on our boat (one of whom was amongst the first women to ski to the South Pole) were like guardians of Antarctica, educating us, encouraging us to become ambassadors for the planet and ensuring we left with more than just a tick on our bucket list. Perhaps because it’s a land that is collectively owned, there is a shared

feeling of responsibility when it comes to Antarctica. I really did feel like a changed person when I returned home, and it took me a while to absorb everything I’d seen and experienced. I felt so incredibly lucky, but I also felt humbled.

I wasn’t alone in this. Most of my fellow travellers were just as well-travelled as me – if not more so – and for most, this was their seventh continent. A lot of travelling, whilst immensely rewarding, can leave you a little jaded and difficult to impress – yet, without fail, every single one of my shipmates was left bedazzled by Antarctica. When I say it is a destination like no other, I really do mean it.

On board, we were able to help with the research efforts of the Citizen Science Project. The boat works with universities and research facilities to record water

M

y biggest tip for anyone about to travel to Antarctica is to make sure you take the time to put down your camera and simply be in the moment.

At first, the glass-like water and icebergstrewn scenery seems completely still and silent – but then you start to notice the subtle noises that fill the chilly air: the faint growl of a blanket of snow falling a few miles away; air bubbles making the ice crackle; the murmuring of a nearby colony of penguins.

It’s an unpredictable terrain. A sunny day can turn into a snow storm in an instant. Glaciers rise up like skyscrapers, but suddenly snap, shattering the glassy surface of the water below. One time we watched from the safety of the boat as an enormous section of ice fell away from a glacier, causing a mammoth wave that rushed towards us. Giant icebergs seemed solid and unmovable, but as the water slowly makes the bottom lighter, they eventually flip right over, rocking in the frigid sea. You start to realise that this continent, that appears so strong, is actually extraordinarily fragile.

THE EXPLORER | SPRING 2016 | 39

Each one of our travellers require the same amount of care and attention, according to their individual needs. Honeymooners will usually expect privacy on their trip; families value stability and safety in a region; a female solo traveller might want to consider a country where she will feel secure; and same-sex couples will prefer to explore places in which they can be comfortable and relaxed.

Same-sex travel is something with which we’re very familiar. Aside from many of our clients travelling in same-sex couples (including the first ever people we planned a holiday for, back in 2008), several of our team are LGBT travellers – so we understand what it’s like to journey to a destination where you might not know what is locally accepted.

This year, we joined the International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA) to make sure every one of our current and prospective clients knows what we stand for: inclusive, immersive and inspirational travel.

THE EXPLORER | SPRING 2016 | 41

BA LI

T H E JT INS I D ER G U I D E Rachel Erdos gives you the low-down on what to do with one week in Bali.

It may be small in size (just 69 miles at its longest point) but Bali packs a big tropical punch. From ancient temples to active volcanoes, chic beach clubs to lush jungle retreats, this Indonesian island idyll offers something for every kind of traveller. Spiritual and sun-kissed, a week here is good for the soul. And in seven days you can cover a lot of ground. Taxis are cheap and accessible and it’s easy to navigate between Bali’s cultural hotspots and natural treasures and still have plenty of time to kick back on a beautiful beach or two.

On arrival at the airport, bypass the crowd-packed coastline around Kuta and travel 20 minutes north to Seminyak instead. This upmarket resort caters to those looking for laid-back lounging with access to lively nightlife. The shoreline is dotted with surf schools, hip hotels and glamorous beach clubs including Potato Head and Ku De Ta. There’s plenty to keep you occupied for a couple of nights, even if you’re just hopping from the pool to the beach and back again. Earmark one night to watch the sun set over Tanah Lot temple, a 10-mile drive north. This magical sea temple teeters on a rock and is cut off

from the shore at high tide. It’s particularly photogenic at dusk.

After soaking up the sunshine, venture an hour north to Ubud, Bali’s cultural hub, where the streets are lined with artists’ studios, craft shops, cafes, and of course temples (the island is home to around 10,000 of them). There are tons of day trips on offer from this central base so plan to spend at least three nights here. In Ubud itself, visit the Sacred Monkey Forest, an ecological reserve and Hindu temple that’s overrun with playful primates. The Agung Rai Museum of Art is a great way to immerse yourself in Indonesian art, and there are independent studios and galleries galore. Learn how to whip up traditional dishes like nasi goreng and gado-gado at a cookery class in one of the many restaurants (some include trips to the morning market to pick up produce). If that sounds too taxing, hit one of the spas that line Monkey Forest Road to indulge in an authentic (and incredibly cheap) Balinese massage. Active types should head down to the Ayung River for a spot of white water rafting.

Put aside a day to explore a little further afield. A popular itinerary from Ubud includes Tirta Emplu Holy Water Temple to witness Balinese bathing rituals; Kintamani for awesome views of Mount Batur, an active volcano, and its neighbouring lake; a coffee plantation tour and tasting; and a walk around the stunning Tegalalang rice terraces.

From Ubud, head an hour and a half south to the Bukit peninsula to spend your last two nights hopping between some of Bali’s best beaches including the lesser-known Balangan and Padang-Padang, accessed by a steep walkway guarded by monkeys. End your trip on a spiritual high with a trip to Uluwatu temple to see the sun set over this dramatic cliff-top sanctuary.

PACK YOUR BAGS Secret Bali: Hidden Gems and Cultural Charms >> Get off the beaten track on a nine-night break in Bali – from $5,354 per person.

THE EXPLORER | SPRING 2016 | 43

LUX URY IND ON ESI AN C RUI SE & BEAC H BREAK A FOUR-NIGHT CRUISE AROUND THE KOMODO ISLANDS, FOLLOWED BY FIVE NIGHTS AT THE EXCLUSIVE NIHIWATU RETREAT ON THE REMOTE ISLAND OF SUMBA FROM $7,830 PER PERSON QUOTE ‘EXPLORER MAGAZINE’ AND GET A COMPLIMENTARY SPA SAFARI EXPERIENCE AT NIHIWATU*

*T&CS APPLY

JACADA TRIBE SHARE ON INSTAGRAM @JACADATRAVEL TWITTER @JACADATRAVEL FACEBOOK /JACADATRAVEL #JACADATRIBE

WE LOVE IT WHEN YOU SHARE YOUR TRAVEL PHOTOS WITH US. HERE ARE SOME OF OUR RECENT FAVOURITES.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: JANE & DAVID IN ECUADOR; THEIR PHOTO OF A GALAPAGOS PENGUIN; MIGUEL & CATHERINE AT MACHU PICCHU; BOB & MARY IN BHUTAN; THEIR PHOTO OF BOROBUDUR TEMPLE, INDONESIA.

THE EXPLORER | SPRING 2016 | 45

U T H AN DO M E A NS LOV E Heather Richardson visits some of the Cape Town community projects supported by Jacada travellers and the community charity, Uthando.

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time to supporting the people and communities who need it most.

On a rainy morning in Cape Town (it does happen), Jacada Travel’s Africa expert Tess and I climbed into a car driven by James’ colleague Xoloni to see some of the projects Uthando support.

We drove first into Langa, the oldest township in Cape Town.

We were here to visit the project Brothers For All, and its cofounder Sihle, who met us at his headquarters in the township.

At the age of 19, Sihle was arrested for robbery and spent the next 11 years in prison. During his time inside, he realised that if he was to stand any chance of avoiding the cycle of crime (80% of prisoners reoffend after 10 or more years in prison), he had to educate himself. With no prior experience, he wound up teaching English and maths in prison, but it wasn’t

until an inmate asked Sihle what he could learn that would actually get him employed outside that he began to think about skills with real job potential. Recognising it as knowledge with long-term relevance, Sihle began to teach himself to code.

Eager to help break the patterns of his community, he now teaches others to code at Project CodeX in Langa, which is where we met. Students of all ages, male and female, were busy working as Sihle spoke about his experiences growing up in Langa in a community where a life of crime was almost inevitable. His aim now is to prevent others from falling into the same cycle. “I’m in the business of selling hope”, Sihle said. His success is evidence that there is always hope.

Aside from the coding, Brothers For All also educates the local

PHOTOS: UTHANDO & JACADA STAFF

eaming with pride, Mama Zoliswa Siko shows us her upstairs living quarters, located above the school.

A couple of years ago, she lived in a shack, which she regularly gave up so that some of the most underprivileged or orphaned local children from her township, Mfuleni, had somewhere to sleep.

Now, more than 65 children who previously had nowhere to go during the day come to Isiseko Educare Centre, a concrete building with three proper classrooms, all made possible by funding from Uthando.

The word ‘uthando’ means love in Zulu, which seems fitting given the enormous heart behind the charity. James Fernie gave up a career in law to set up Uthando, an organisation that funds various grass-roots projects in and around Cape Town. He now dedicates his

GIVIN G BACK

youth about safe sex, from HIV risks to preventing teen pregnancies.

We drove on to Khayelitsha, the largest township in Cape Town, home to some 400,000 people. South Africa’s townships - communities clustered around the cities - are a relic of apartheid, a dark period of the country’s history. Today, millions of South Africans still live in these communities, although middle classes within the townships are gradually emerging.

Many tourists want to visit the townships and there are several tours that cater for this. However, I have never felt particularly comfortable with this kind of tourism and I know many travellers feel the same way. It is, perhaps, important for

visitors to see this side to South Africa, but travelling into the townships with Uthando adds a positive slant to the trip in raising awareness, witnessing community development, and of course, funding these local initiatives.

In Khayelitsha, we visited a gardening project at a school and the eKhaya eKasi project, where women create beadwork for sale, educate families about healthy eating, and promote AIDS awareness in the community.

Another of Uthando’s fundraising initiatives is their book, Abantu Abadala - Conversations with the Elders. The book features short stories about the struggles of living in South Africa throughout its most turbulent decades from some of the oldest members of the communities in which Uthando

OPPOSITE FROM LEFT: ISISEKO EDUCARE; UTHANDO’S BOOK, ‘ABANTU ABADALA’; SIHLE OF BROTHERS FOR ALL; THE KIDS OF ISISEKO; ISISEKO EDUCARE; THE GARDEN AT ISIKHOKELO PRIMARY SCHOOL; A CHOIR IN ONE OF THE TOWNSHIPS.

work. Alongside their words are striking portraits of the elders.

Uthando is just one example of ways in which tourism can be responsible and have a positive impact on local communities. Not only does your money go to a good place, but the tours enable visitors to meet locals in a way they wouldn’t be able to on any other tour or alone.

Though seeing townships can be eye-opening and perhaps shocking for some, these kind of visits are, at heart, positive. The clue is in the name, Uthando.

Jacada Travel supports Uthando by donating a set amount of the profits from each trip to Africa we plan.

THE EXPLORER | SPRING 2016 | 47

DE S TI N ATION INSPIRATION

TOP SPAS IN ASIA K ATE E DWA RDS A SIA EXPERT If there’s one region that excels in wellness resorts and spas, it’s Asia. From treehouse pampering to sleek retreats, these are four of my favourite luxury spas.

NIHI OKA SPA SAFARI AT NIHIWATU – SUMBA, INDONESIA

On the undeveloped island of Sumba lies one of Indonesia’s best hotels. For years Nihiwatu was a surfer’s bolthole, before it was transformed into a luxury resort. The spa is quite different from any other spa. Guests trek for 90 minutes through rural Sumba’s forests and rice paddies to reach Nihi Oka, a deserted beach, save for the treehouse spa that sits on the clifftop. After being greeted with fresh coconuts, you can indulge in as many treatments as you want. If you’d prefer to forego the walk, there’s a beach spa back at the resort alongside in-room massages and treatments.

COMO SHAMBHALA ESTATE – BALI, INDONESIA

COMO Shambhala is a wellness retreat located in the lush centre of Bali, near Ubud. The resort is home to an Ayurvedic doctor, a dietician, yoga teacher and spa therapists, all on hand to ensure guests leave feeling refreshed and relaxed. Aside from in-house therapies, there’s hiking, climbing and cycling to add to your programme.

AMAN TOKYO – TOKYO JAPAN

With an enviable view, the spa at Aman Tokyo is the perfect antidote to the fast pace of city life. On the 33rd floor, the spa rises above the noise of Tokyo with a 30-metre black, granite pool and therapies based on traditional Japanese ingredients and ceremonies. The style is sleek and modern, but with Japanese elements.

FUSION MAIA DA NANG – DA NANG, VIETNAM

As though a stay at the Fusion Maya in Da Nang is not enough of a treat, guests in the spacious pool villas also get two complimentary spa treatments per day – and of course that doesn’t mean you need to stop at two. Your treatments might be a calming sleep therapy massage or the holistic head therapy, or even the bamboo rollout that targets the lymphatic system. There are also steam rooms, saunas, Jacuzzis and a yoga studio.

THE EXPLORER | SPRING 2016 | 49

LA ST-MINUTE ESCAP ES

ITCHY FEET

Need to scratch that travel itch? Here are some destinations just ripe for visiting...

BEAT THE CROWDS IN CROATIA

EXPLORE THE ATACAMA DESERT

GO WILD FOR COSTA RICA

SAFARI IN THE SERENGETI

Travel to the sun-kissed shores of Croatia before the crowds and the sweltering heat of the summer hit.

April and May fall just before the rainy season in Costa Rica, one of the most eco-friendly places to visit for the nature-loving traveller.

The dramatic, unearthly Atacama Desert offers great value for those visiting before September.

Spot migration herds, giraffes and elephants on a Tanzanian safari in the legendary Serengeti National Park.

The Explorer Lounge is where the travel elite gather. Based in Hong Kong’s Central district, the lounge is an inspiring space for planning and talking about travel.

Come and meet us for a glass of wine or cup of tea, and we can start crafting an experiential, luxury journey designed especially for you.

EMAIL TRAVEL@JACADATRAVEL.COM CALL +852 2110 0537

ENQUIRIES@JACADATRAVEL.COM | WWW.JACADATRAVEL.COM