Explorer 15 – The Time Issue by The Explorer by Jacada Travel

THE

EXPLORER

The Time Issue

RETRACING OUR STEPS IN BUENOS AIRES FROM DAWN TO DUSK IN THE SERENGETI ART THROUGH THE AGES

CONTRIBUTORS ALICIA WARNER A self-defined child of the tropics, with Thai and Antiguan heritage, Alicia enjoys capturing the world's vibrant tapestry of food, people, and places through visual storytelling.

ISABELLA SULLIVAN Born in Cape Town and based in Dubai, Isabella is a former editor of Condé Nast Traveller Middle East and the founder of regional luxury travel magazine Near+Far.

BEVERLEY LENNON Salty hair and sandy toes, Beverley was born and raised in Mauritius. She made the ultimate weather switch, trading the tropics for the Netherlands, fueling her passion for island life.

JANINA DOWNEY An enthusiast in using storytelling to inspire positive impact, Janina has spent more than 20 years within the industry. In this issue she highlights Wilderness’ 40th milestone.

BRITTANY REEVE Fresh from a creative writing degree and full of inspiration, Britt's passion for travel writing is developing into a sincere obsession.

JESSIE BRECHIN-LEMAN As head of our marketing team, Jessie is always thinking about the future. For her honeymoon, she took time to revisit a country she called home more than a decade ago.

ELEANOR ALDRIDGE A passion for food and wine took Eleanor to live, work and write in Paris for five years. In this issue, she reflects on the joys of French food culture.

LAUREN KEITH Lauren is a freelance travel writer, editor and guidebook author who loves shining the spotlight on off-the-beaten-track and underloved places.

EMELIE STEVENSON With her sights always set on her next adventure, Emelie revels in the flavours, stories and cultures she encounters. Here, she dives into the rich history of tattooing.

MIRABEL OKPLA Aspiring polyglot and avid foodie, Mirabel has spent the past few years studying and working abroad, which has fuelled her interest in exploring different cultures.

EMILY OPIE After many years travelling the world Emily put down roots in the UK, spending her time writing, reading and dreaming about globetrotting escapades.

TERRI DUNBAR-CURRAN Whether exploring the rhythms of ancient dance or retracing the journeys of travellers past, Cape Town-based writer Terri loves collecting stories from around the world.

The Explorer is published by Jacada Travel

Editor-in-chief Jessie Brechin-Leman

Travel enquiries enquiries@jacadatravel.com US +1 646 895 8368 UK +44 20 3514 0977

Editor Eleanor Aldridge

Online jacadatravel.com

Design Extract Studio Illustrations Alicia Warner

With thanks to Kisawa Sanctuary Journey Mexico Charlotte Berney Wayo Africa Duane and Victoria Funk Claudio Sieber Cover Image Photo by LongX Music on Unsplash

When you have finished with this magazine please recycle it.

Dear Travellers,

hen I founded Jacada Travel in 2008, I don’t think I had any idea what lay ahead. It’s been a fantastic and fascinating journey, not without its lows but marked by an incredible number of highs. From sending our first clients to Brazil and Latin America to opening up our most recent destinations in the Middle East this year, we’re proud of always pushing to bring new experiences and destinations to our travellers. Depending on how you look at it, fifteen years is either a very long or a very short period of time. And time has become the theme of our current reflections at Jacada and of this particular issue of The Explorer. One of the most significant events in the past few years at Jacada was joining Wilderness in 2020. You can read a little more about Wilderness, and their trailblazing initiatives we’re proud to help support, on page 10. The enduring power of nature is explored through the magic of trees on page 16, while we dig deep into the history of Egyptian art as it has evolved over millennia on page 58. For smaller snapshots, why not take a coffee break in Jordan (page 80) or witness the way that Laos can change from day to night (page 68)?

You’ll find these and many more stories in the following pages. Before you turn the page, I’d like to highlight three key elements that have made the past fifteen years such an incredible adventure. Firstly, our people. The Jacada team has seen an incredible amount of talent and passion, the likes of which you’d be hard pressed to find in another company. Some of our team have been with us since the early days, and others are far newer. While of course we’ve said goodbye to many faces over the years, they each had a hand in shaping the purpose-driven business we’ve become. Secondly, the destinations. We now offer trips all over the world, and our inspiration just keeps growing. Searching for new perspectives and places to visit is something that we never tire of. And finally, you: our travellers. Getting to know you over the years has made all the difference. In many cases, we’ve been by your side for trips year after year, and our teams truly feel a part of your lives. It’s a privilege to share stories from your travels and celebrate your milestones and accomplishments, knowing that we do our bit to make your time away all the more special.

Happy travelling,

Alex Malcolm Founder

CONTENTS

Boarding Call

Features

Briefing The latest news from the world of luxury travel

Standing Tall Exploring the world of trees, true keepers of secrets around the globe

10 Four Decades of Wilderness A journey to conservation, community and connection

Returning to South America In Chile and Argentina, we discover the joy of revisiting long-loved destinations

Inked Identities Body markings represent a language that transcends borders and spans centuries

12 Down Memory Lane Reflecting on fifteen years of travel and our never-ending appetite for adventure

Inspirations 68 Dawn til Dusk Luang Prabang transforms from a slowpaced haven by day into a lantern-lit spectacle by night 72 Paradise Found In tranquillity on secluded shores, time surrenders its hurried nature and gifts precious moments just for two… 76 Unlocking Memories Let the scent of perfume transport you to moments otherwise lost to time

On the Tide In the waters off Mexico’s Baja Peninsula, fragile ecosystems hang in a delicate balance

Beat of Tradition Step into a firelit circle for the powerful, rhythmic singing and dancing of Kenya’s Maasai warriors

80 Sipping Over Centuries Coffee customs in Jordan serve as a gateway to the country’s past, present and future 82 Life in Colour Mark your calendars to experience Central America at its most vibrant

86 Savoir Faire Time is the secret behind exceptional flavours in France 88 24 Hours at Wilderness Usawa Serengeti Join us at a mobile safari camp in Tanzania’s epic Serengeti National Park 92 How I Travel We chat with Jacada’s long-time clients and discover how they love to travel

A Grand Affair By sea, rail, land or air, Europe lends itself perfectly to the age-old idea of a grand tour

Art Through the Ages One of the cradles of human civilisation, Egypt has been an artistic centre since time immemorial CONTENTS

Boarding Call

08 Briefing 10 Four Decades of Wilderness 12 Down Memory Lane PAGE TITLE

BRIEFING Openings and news in the luxury travel world.

THE BENSLEY COLLECTION’S LATEST ADDITION Perched 3000 metres above sea level, Shinta Mani Mustang in Nepal has recently marked its debut as Asia's most eagerly awaited hotel. Crafted through the collaborative genius of visionary architect Bill Bensley and hospitality maestro Jason M. Friedman, this 29-suite sanctuary is a living testament to their unrivalled creativity. Set against the backdrop of the Tibetan Plateau, the hotel offers breathtaking vistas of the Himalayas, with rooms overlooking the snow-covered Nilgiri range. Every contour and hue have been orchestrated to blend seamlessly with the beauty of the mountain kingdom of Mustang.

NEW WINE EXPERIENCES UNCORKED

AN OLYMPIC YEAR UNLIKE ANY OTHER IN BRIEF

Discover the world of winemaking at Brookdale Estate's new cellar in South Africa. Sitting in the picturesque landscape of the Winelands, the talented winemaker Kiara Scott and her team work their magic onsite, crafting exquisite vintages. Among other exciting upgrades is a freshly minted tasting room, showcasing Brookdale's exceptional wines and inviting you to savour the complexities and subtleties of each pour.

The eagerly anticipated Grand Egyptian Museum is now scheduled to open its doors in early 2024. Located just outside of Cairo on the Giza Plateau, adjacent to the Pyramids, this monumental edifice is poised to become Egypt's new crown jewel. Boasting the distinction of being one of the largest, most modern, and globally renowned museums, it will showcase over 100,000 ancient artefacts, including the complete treasure trove of King Tutankhamun.

On the 26th of July 2024, a spectacle will grace the iconic river that winds its way through the heart of Paris. Instead of the customary stadium setting, thousands of athletes will embark on a parade, gliding along the Seine in boats to celebrate the start of the Olympic Games.

Switzerland has achieved an illustrious victory, clinching the top prize at the Rail Tourism Awards and reaffirming its position as a trailblazer in railway excellence. The nation's commitment to sustainability in rail travel has played a pivotal role in securing this prestigious accolade.

THE MICHELIN GUIDE HAS LANDED IN VIETNAM The culinary scene in Vietnam is about to experience an unprecedented wave of recognition as the prestigious Michelin Guide makes its debut. Renowned for its rich tapestry of flavours and culinary traditions, Vietnam has long been a favourite among food enthusiasts. The spotlight now shines brightly on the exceptional talent of Vietnamese chefs and the unparalleled gastronomic experiences that grace the bustling streets and hidden corners of cities like Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

Peru's first luxury tented camp, Puqio, opened in the Andean Valley of Colca last September. Just a threehour drive from Arequipa, the Colca Valley is known as one of the most remote places on earth. Ancient pre-Inca terraces, still actively used, share untold stories of the past. From here, guests can discover the land's mysteries through bespoke experiences guided by a local herbalist.

DISCOVER EGYPT, JORDAN AND OMAN WITH JACADA As we celebrate our 15-year anniversary, we’ve embarked on a new adventure. We're delighted to begin offering bespoke trips to Egypt, Jordan and Oman with more destinations to follow in the coming months.

BRIEFING

Four Decades of Wilderness A journey to conservation, community and connection. Words: JANINA DOWNEY

ore than forty years ago, Wilderness embarked on a passionate endeavour to educate, empower and protect. Since 1983, their dedication to their mission has fostered a profound culture of conservation – and their remarkable, transformative initiatives have evolved from a single African camp into a globally renowned organisation accountable for preserving more than 6 million acres of pristine wilderness around the globe. Jacada, part of Wilderness since 2020, is at the heart of this journey, driven by a mutual commitment to preserving wildlife and benefiting local communities. Today, as we celebrate Wilderness’s 40-year milestone, we share their inspiring journey and ambitious vision for the future. A rich heritage of preservation What began with one Land Rover and a tent sparked a collaborative mission to conserve extensive areas of land while also facilitating a deep connection between travellers and the wild. Over the years, Wilderness has

Boarding Call

3. Redoubling Rwanda’s reforestation efforts. In the woodlands of Gishwati and Bisate, Wilderness is actively engaged in reviving and replenishing natural habitats. The forest has experienced a remarkable revival after seeing a 98% reduction in size and forest cover since the 1970s thanks to the planting of more than 100,000 indigenous trees. Trail cameras tracking wildlife in recently replanted areas confirm that the forestry programme is effectively expanding the habitat of wild animals, with the park's famous golden monkeys, servals and mountain gorillas all spotted. Wilderness is also developing an exclusive chimpanzee and primate trekking experience, providing local jobs for rangers, guides and porters.

initiated projects that have left a permanent mark on the conservation landscape. Three standout initiatives exemplify their commitment to the environment, wildlife and the communities who call these areas their home. 1. Safeguarding Namibia’s endangered rhinos. Wilderness joined forces with Save the Rhino to establish the Desert Rhino Camp. This initiative aims to protect the rhino population by implementing effective tracking methods and supporting dedicated rangers who play a vital role in preserving these majestic creatures. As visitors embark on journeys through the country’s rugged wilderness, they are actively contributing to the solution, whilst simultaneously participating in conservation efforts to protect one of our planet’s most vulnerable species.

Embracing a better future Wilderness continues to push boundaries and design unforgettable experiences that connect travellers and the untamed natural environment. By expanding their conservation initiatives and curating trips that inherently include active participation in a greater cause, Wilderness upholds its commitment to safeguard the Earth’s invaluable wild wonders. When you choose to journey with Jacada, you are not only embarking on an adventure, but also becoming part of a legacy that promotes environmental preservation, community involvement and a deep connection to the natural world. Wilderness proves what can be accomplished when passionate travellers join forces.

2. Actively involving the younger generation. The Children in the Wilderness programme provides avenues for children to establish a connection with nature, prioritising community education while also addressing the issues of human-wildlife conflict. These initiatives by Wilderness aim to foster a balanced and peaceful co-existence between wildlife and the communities living nearby.

Wilderness in numbers

60+

40K+

Wilderness operates across eight African countries

With more than sixty different camps and lodges

Six million acres (2.3M hectares) of land protected

More than 40,000 guests welcomed each year

FOUR DECADES OF WILDERNESS

Down Memory Lane

veryone comes to travel in their own way and at their own time. Some start young, fuelled by their family's insatiable appetite for adventure. Others embark on their own journeys when the freedom to wander solo finally graces their doorstep. One thing is common to all travellers: that is that the experience is forever evolving. Even within the relatively short span of 15 years since we crafted our inaugural trips at Jacada, the landscape of travel has undergone significant transformation. We took a moment to chat with some of our team, delving into the recesses of their earliest travel memories, and the changes they’ve witnessed since then.

NATALIE JOHNSON Travel Designer for the Middle East

JAMEY LOWIS Travel Designer for Africa

Tell us about one of your earliest travel memories. When I was ten years old I spent three weeks in Canada. Our tour of the country included Ontario and Niagara falls. Taking the boat trip under the falls was amazing, though I wasn’t prepared to get as wet as we did! Then there was Toronto. I loved Toronto because at that age I'd not been to many other big cities before, so the view from the top of the CN tower was extra special for me.

Tell us about one of your earliest travel memories. I am from Kenya and many of my earliest travel memories are from time spent on safari. My favourite memories are all from the same place, Shaba National Park in Northern Kenya. It’s an incredibly wild region, with vast plains, rocky outcrops, crystal clear springs and great wildlife. It’s still my favourite place in the world for safari. My memories include climbing rocks, spotting leopards and swimming in the Ewaso River. My favourite thing about Shaba is that we would never see another vehicle: it felt like the whole world was ours to explore.

Jacada celebrates its 15th anniversary this year, where were you 15 years ago? Fifteen years ago was actually the same year I moved to London. I moved into my first house share in North London and was working at the Guardian newspaper. How has the concept of travel changed for you in the past 15 years? Having backpacked solo around South East Asia, then been on research trips ranging from staying at a sloth sanctuary in Costa Rica to having a private villa to myself in Greece, I’ve realised that great travel experiences are not about where you stay. It’s about the things you do and the connections forged with fellow travellers along the journey.

Boarding Call

Jacada celebrates its 15th anniversary this year, where were you 15 years ago? When I wasn't in school I was working for my family's safari camp as a spotter in Kenya. I would spend all day sitting on the back of the game vehicle spotting wildlife or helping out around camp. How has the concept of travel changed for you in the past 15 years? I've observed a significant shift, primarily influenced by the rise of social media and online search platforms. The allure of popular destinations has surged, creating what feels like an overcrowding issue in certain regions. Sometimes it can seem like every patch of forest has a camp, every lion has six vehicles around it. This transformation has steered my preferences toward less-explored destinations which offer incredible wildlife and experiences yet remain largely undiscovered simply because they don't feature prominently in popular online searches for the "best safari."

JENNIFER RICHT Senior Travel Designer for Latin America

KATE HERZ Senior Travel Designer for Europe

CHARLIE MORRIS Travel Designer for Asia Pacific

Tell us about one of your earliest travel memories. I'm from Malmo in Sweden and one of my very earliest travel memories is from when I was around four years old. My parents and I would travel between Sweden and the UK, as we had family in both countries. We would drive and take the ferry in my dad's jet-black American Dodge. For me it was always an adventure being on the big ship. I loved seeing this as a big moving home and meeting the other people onboard. Despite occasional tempestuous seas, I remember it as precious quality time together. My father was incredible at telling (and inventing) long stories about trolls and giants which kept me entertained for hours!

Tell us about one of your earliest travel memories. One of my earliest travel memories is tucking into one of the huge pots of moules marinières (mussels in white wine sauce) that are served in Bruges, and the look on my mum's face when it was placed in front of me. Well-sized for an adult, absolutely enormous for a seven year old! They remain a firm favourite to this day.

Tell us about one of your earliest travel memories. I went to South Africa when I was 11 and visited a new wildlife area that had just welcomed a herd of giraffes. I asked to name one and the fortunate (read: unfortunate) giraffe ended up with the name Ronald after my grandpa. I also requested to stop every tortoise we saw so I could inspect their shells.

Jacada celebrates its 15th anniversary this year, where were you 15 years ago? I had just returned from two years abroad exploring every inch of Australia, and travelling through South East Asia. I was 25 years old and a little late to the real world of work. I embarked on the most natural career to fulfil my love of discovering our wonderful world: travel!

Jacada celebrates its 15th anniversary this year, where were you 15 years ago? Fifteen years ago I began my solo travels. Following a year-long journey on my yacht, navigating from Thailand to Australia through the Indonesian islands, I then spent some time exploring New Zealand, embarking on a road trip that spanned from the northern reaches to the southern landscapes. This is still my favourite way to explore a new destination.

Jacada celebrates its 15th anniversary this year, where were you 15 years ago? I was working hard at a cosy country hotel in a little English town called Cirencester saving up for a six month trip to explore India, Thailand, Vietnam and Malaysia. How has the concept of travel changed for you in the past 15 years? There has been a considerable shift in the travel industry, with a growing emphasis on contributing to global initiatives for the well-being of our planet. Although this endeavour is in its early stages, the promising aspect lies in the swift and positive impact it can have on restoring habitats and honouring local communities when executed thoughtfully. It is imperative for each of us to play a role in this collective effort through our choices and actions, ensuring the preservation of these remarkable spaces for generations to come.

How has the concept of travel changed for you in the past 15 years? The style and comfort in which I travel has dramatically improved in 15 years but the concept of travel remains the same; my curiosity for anthropology and local cuisine is just as strong as when I first started exploring.

How has the concept of travel changed for you in the past 15 years? When I first started to travel it was for me to see the world and new places. Over the years I have learnt how we can use these experiences to give back in many ways to the local communities and the people we engage with daily. When you travel, the world seems smaller and more connected, and giving back can have a bigger effect. My favourite saying now is ‘It’s not where you are, it’s who you're with.’

DOWN MEMORY LANE

Features

16 Standing Tall 24 Returning to South America 30 Inked Identities 38 On the Tide 46 Beat of Tradition 52 A Grand Affair 58 Art Through the Ages PAGE TITLE

Tall

Standing 16

Features

Trees breathe life into our planet and landscapes. It’s impossible to travel without witnessing how they shape the world, their roots deeply interwoven with our heritage and culture. Words: EMILY OPIE

STANDING TALL

rees have been culturally and spiritually vital for millennia. Perhaps more than any other form of life, they give us fascinating insights into the past. Unyielding against the tests of time, they remain rooted to the spot while the world moves frantically around them. No matter where you are in the world, trees are true keepers of secrets. They hold stories of history and evolution, of periods marked by change and growth. From the sacred bodhi tree and towering kapok to gnarly bristlecone pines and tiny saplings nurtured for reforestation projects, each tree, much like us, has its own tales to tell. It’s always a humbling experience to stop for a moment, lay your hand against an oak, baobab or banyan tree, and imagine all it has witnessed. Ancient history Trees are first thought to have appeared between 350 and 420 million years ago, millions of years before early humans evolved. The first tree, the archaeopteris, a tall tree with a slim trunk and green fern-like foliage, is now extinct. Yet from images generated by scientists, it’s not dissimilar to species found on earth today. In Sweden, on the steep slopes of the rugged Fulufjället National Park, you can still come face to face with one of the world’s oldest trees. The unassuming Old Tjikko, a rather spindly looking Norway spruce, is thought to be at least 9,500 years old. Researchers have been able to date the tree, in particular its root system, by identifying processes such

as vegetative cloning (producing new organisms with identical genomes), layering (when branches sprout new roots into the ground) and carbon dating. Lacing up your hiking boots to explore Sweden’s thirty national parks promises more than just fresh air and epic scenery. Living among giants Wherever you are in the world, trees always make their presence known. Cambodia’s Angkor Wat complex has long attracted travellers to its seventy temples, where intricate towers, courtyards and pathways reveal the fascinating 12th century history of the Khmer empire. One temple in particular, made famous by the movie Tomb Raider, receives much attention from visitors. Ta Prohm, built in the traditional Bayon style, intricately carved and constructed without mortar, was slowly taken over by trees after it was abandoned in the 15th century. Tentacle-like tree roots seem to protest against this human structure, growing out of the building itself, as the lush jungle seemingly tries to reclaim its lost terrain. In east and southern Africa, where the big five roam and the skies seem endless, the mighty baobab is never far away. Its most vital role is interwoven with the fragile ecosystem of the savannah across Kenya, Tanzania, Namibia and beyond. These massive trees are the embodiment of survival. They help to keep the soil humid, aid nutrient recycling and slow erosion with their enormous roots – and enable us to discover the regions’ incredible wildlife, season after season.

Left: a giraffe roams beneath a baobab Right: Ta Prohm, Angkor Wat

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STANDING TALL

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"From Norway to Iran, China to Greece, tangled roots, intertwining branches and robust trunks have been depicted on the armour of warriors, in palaces, fortresses and churches, and woven into textiles."

Spirituality & beliefs Humans have long celebrated the natural world, acknowledging, worshipping and sacrificing to the power of the planet, sun and stars. Ancient beliefs and practices such as Shintoism in Japan and the worship of the Earth Mother, Pachama, in indigenous Andean communities, are still spiritually significant and practised today. The concept of the ‘tree of life’ has played an important role in mythology and philosophical traditions. From Norway to Iran, China to Greece, tangled roots, intertwining branches and robust trunks have been depicted on the armour of warriors, in palaces, fortresses and churches, and woven into textiles. Even the twinkling modern Christmas tree is derived from evergreen tree branches the ancient Greeks and Romans used as symbolic decoration. Arguably the world's most sacred tree is the bhodi tree, ‘the tree of awakening’, revered by Buddhists who believe Siddhartha Gautama was meditating beneath its branches when he gained enlightenment. The tree was a fig, with large heart shaped leaves and a smooth trunk. It grew in Bodh Gaya in India, although other ancient trees of the same species are also considered sacred and referred to as bodhi trees. The Mahabodhi tree that now grows close to the original plot is thought to be a direct descendant of the first, and considered one of the four main Buddhist pilgrimage sites in India and Nepal. India’s national tree is the banyan. Sacred to the country’s Hindu population, it’s a symbol of life, fertility, growth and strength. It also holds religious, mythical and cultural significance for other Dharmic religions, such as Jainism, Sikhism and Islam. The tree itself is beautiful, capable of growing for centuries to cover expanses of up to 4.7 acres, putting down a forest-like tangle of roots from its branches. In China, the Lam Tsuen Wishing Tree in the grounds of Hong Kong’s Tin Hau Temple, has been worshipped since the late 1700s, said to be able to make wishes come true. STANDING TALL

Left: “The Cabin” at Sweden’s Treehotel Right: looking up into the forest canopy in Colombia

Looking to the future An unsustainable pressure is mounting on our environment. The effects of climate change – wildfires, flooding, drought and storms – as well as industries such as mining, logging and agriculture threaten the survival of forests worldwide, from Australia’s Daintree Rainforest to the dense Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in Uganda. Innovative projects now look to counter these threats and bring about positive change. People from many countries and cultures are committed to enabling future generations to, literally and metaphorically, be protected by trees' shelter and magnificence. Indigenous Amazon communities in Colombia have taken the protection of the rainforest into their own hands, a new generation of community leaders recognised as the key to protecting the forest against mining, logging and farming. Elders are training younger members not only to preserve their culture but also to use connections to build lines of communication with government officials and mining companies. In Tanzania, a mutually beneficial business idea has grown from the baobab. Women from local communities, who have harvested baobab fruit for centuries, have begun selling new products: delicious jams 22

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and vitamin-C-rich skin products. Due to the success of their small businesses, landowners have begun to preserve baobab woodlands, instead of cutting them down for fuel and farming. Conservation is now at the core of some luxury camps, lodges and boutique hotels, which look to minimise the impact on the environment by building around or within forests rather than cutting them down. Lapa Rios in Costa Rica, Sweden’s tree-top Treehotel and Ecuador’s Mashpi Lodge offer an unrivalled connection to nature by working with trees rather than against them. The cultural significance of trees is also being marked in the United Kingdom. The UK Tree Charter has set out ten principles, supported by councils, community groups, schools and churches, to cement the positive relationship between trees and people. Part of their research included collecting 60,000 emotive and inspiring stories from individuals who explain why trees are so important to them.

Books we recommend Literature is a wonderful way to immerse yourself in the world of trees. From fictional tales to mind-expanding facts and science, we’ve rounded up a few of our favourite books.

The Hidden Life of Trees by Peter Wohlleben After 20 years working for the forestry commission in Germany, Peter Wohlleben explains the science behind tree communication.

The Overstory by Richard Powers A novel that tells the tale of nine strangers who get caught up in an unfolding environmental crisis.

Siddhartha by Herman Hesse A fictional story which explores the teachings of Buddhism, asking questions and describing the natural world with a lyrical and mesmerising style.

STANDING TALL

Returning

Features

A conversation about the joys of returning to a much-loved destination was a lightbulb moment for Jessie BrechinLeman. An epic honeymoon took shape, the journey taking her from Buenos Aires, through Argentine and Chilean Patagonia, to finish in the wine country near Santiago.

South America

Words: JESSIE BRECHIN-LEMAN

RETURNING TO SOUTH AMERICA

Top left: wandering the corridors of Recoleta Cemetery Top right: the majestic choripan Bottom left: the brightly coloured buildings of Caminito Bottom right: a tunnel in the Perito Moreno glacier

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’ve had the privilege of visiting some incredible places. Places that make your heart stutter and imprint themselves on your mind. I’ve explored many unsung destinations and been marked by many firsts but, until recently, I resisted the idea of ‘returning’ somewhere. With so much to experience, I didn’t see the value in going back. Yet when I revisited India with my now husband, Sven, I was blown away at the joy I found. Not only unearthing sites and sounds that had slipped below the surface of my memory, but in sharing them with him. No matter where we go, we are touched by the places we visit, the people we meet and the things we experience. Returning with your loved ones makes these memories all the sweeter, as you share a once-private piece of your soul. When it came to planning our honeymoon this year, we found the perfect destinations in Argentina and Chile. Buenos Aires In 2010, as a student, I lived in Buenos Aires. I’ve long credited this year, full of adventures, highs and lows, as being the foundation of my love for travel and insatiable interest in the world. Our time in Buenos Aires is a whirlwind of the best kind. I reacquaint myself with the city I once called home, dragging my husband to key sites such as ‘the front door of my old building’ and ‘my old local supermarket’. In some areas nothing appears changed, but the signs of time passing are everywhere. My local butcher has been replaced with a fruit and veg shop and the run-down area next to the railway line is now a beautiful park. San Telmo market now features artisanal dulce de leche alongside the antiques. The bright walls of Caminito are shining proudly, a far cry from their state over a decade ago.

Travel often exists in a vacuum. The locations we visit live on in our memories as static; as film sets for the stories we tell. But when you revisit a destination, you’re inevitably confronted with the fact that everywhere in the world experiences time in the same way. I didn’t just live in Buenos Aires: I lived in the Buenos Aires of 13 years ago. The Buenos Aires of today has evolved in much the same way that I have over the interceding decade and a half. We rediscover the city with the help of a crack team of guides. They take us through the history of Buenos Aires as I find myself caught between excavating dim memories and being thoroughly fascinated by new discoveries. Sven is a historian by education and dug far deeper than I ever had into the whys of this beautiful city. We also explore the food scene that makes Porteños so proud. With a huge history of immigration, many of the typical foods in Buenos Aires reflect different cultures, with the Italian influence particularly strong. Sven was delighted to be introduced to the majestic choripan. A spiced pork and beef sausage on a baguette with chimichurri sauce, this is a staple of the Buenos Aires food scene and has a fond place in my memories as an excellent postnight-out snack. At Pizzería Güerrin, where the fires of the vast stone oven have burned consistently since 1932, Sven was further thrilled to learn that in Buenos Aires, a single pizza might be topped with a whole pound of mozzarella. An asado experience rounds out our feast as we learn how to grill the different cuts of meat that form the centrepoint of this cultural phenomenon. We learn a few basics of tango in a private class, and enjoy an evening in a milonga even if neither of us is likely to grace a dance floor in the near future. One of my highlights is the street art tour – a look at the city through the lens of artistic expression in different neighbourhoods. The colour and vibrancy of this scene has developed enormously over the past decade. I love seeing some murals that are familiar to me now accompanied by

newer artists, who are sharing stories of more recent history – Messi now joining Maradona in his mythological status. Argentine Patagonia As soon as we land in Patagonia, it’s clear to us, both Scottish, why many of the first non-native settlers were from our country. The vast landscapes are eerily and beautifully familiar; rugged, shaped by glaciers and splintered by rivers running as far as the eye can see. It’s Scotland on a grand scale, and it feels like home. Starting in El Calafate, which didn’t even have an airport last time I was in the country, we set out to see the highlights of Argentine Patagonia. Our first full day is spent at the Perito Moreno glacier where we watch huge shards of ice collapsing from the face and into the lake below. After crossing by boat, we don crampons to hike on the glacier itself. We follow our guide across the compacted ice as he expertly steers us past cracks and pools almost invisible to the untrained eye. The further we go, the larger the glacier seems to become, and the more vivid the colours. As the finale to our excursion, we climb down to a tunnel, painstakingly formed by streams of meltwater boring their way through the mass of ice. The compacted crystals create a blue unlike anything I’ve ever seen in the natural world, shining like neon in the sun. Our day at Estancia Cristina starts a little less hopefully. This huge ranch was founded over a century ago and is accessible by a catamaran that takes a couple of hours to cross the chilly waters of Lago Argentino. The wind has picked up and brought the clouds down to meet the lake. As we sail up towards the Upsala glacier and cruise past the immense icebergs that dot the channel, the snow lashes the windows and a day of horse riding looks increasingly miserable. But the weather is on our side. Much like in Scotland, it can turn in an instant. By the time we disembark to meet our guide, Vicente, the sun has made itself known.

“In some areas nothing appears changed, but the signs of time passing are everywhere.” RETURNING TO SOUTH AMERICA

Estancia Cristina earns its description as remote. In the winter months, the horses roam freely on the land. They’re beautiful creatures, blending into the yellows and browns of the landscape and completely unbothered by the battering wind. We trek towards the mountains, a two-hour journey through a stunning valley accompanied only by the occasional sight of a hare, more horses or the circling condors. A small refuge hut at the edge of Lago Anita provides a welcome sanctuary from the sunny but blusterous ride. One of the Estancia’s gauchos has ridden ahead: the log fire is burning and there is an even-morewelcome spread of meat, cheese and Malbec to greet us. As we warm up, lunch is prepared: flat iron steak sandwiches followed by a dessert of vigilante – cheese topped with sweet potato jelly. The description gives us pause but emboldened by the wine, cautious nibbles soon become enthusiastic bites. Isolated in this hut in the middle of nowhere we exchange stories and cultures with our guides. We share mate and my husband is horrified to discover the number of tiny rules associated with drinking this most Argentine of drinks. Vicente fills the mate with leaves and adds hot water from his flask (an omnipresent accessory). We pass the vessel and sequentially take our sip, remembering not to say thank you unless we’re completely finished, and absolutely not to move the straw. If the food and drink took the chill from our extremities, then arriving in Eolo and stepping into the embrace of the lodge warmed our souls. Valentin, the long-serving manager, makes us feel right at home. The start of the season sees a lot of the staff returning, including the local chef who creates some of the most delicious meals we have all trip. Local lamb melts in the mouth and the fresh raviolis are the best I’ve had outside of Italy. Whisky from the antique English bar is the final touch to an unforgettable stay. Compared to El Calafate, El Chaltén is far quieter. The visitors here are all present for the same reason as us: Fitz Roy. The

peaks loom into view from the road hours before we reach the town and we stop for the obligatory photo. The next morning we set out with our guide, Fede, to hike up to Laguna de Los Tres, in the shadow of the towers above. As it’s early in the season and there has been late snowfall the last mile ascent to the Laguna is one for crampons and poles – kit which seemed like overkill at the start of the trail but for which we are immensely grateful. Crunching through the snow and ice to the top is a slog but well worth it for the view of the lake, frozen and covered in pristine snow. It’s a view for a well-earned packed lunch, eaten under the watchful eyes of the bold caracaras, hoping for errant crumbs. We spend our days in El Chaltén hiking with Fede and learning about the area and its history, comparing the challenges of the area with our experiences in the Dolomites and Alps. Sven and Fede share common ground with their love of mountains, climbing and the stories of first ascents. I have never learnt more than I do on those treks. What El Chaltén lacks in infrastructure it makes up for with heart. We find a favourite dinner spot in La Tapera, our active days excusing any excess of steak consumed. By the time we leave to transfer to Chile we are full of plans to return, multi-day hikes on our future menu. Chilean Patagonia The long drives between locations in Patagonia serve as a reminder of the immense challenges that humans faced to create lives here. The bright red shrines to Gaucho Gil are often the only interruption to miles and miles of deserted road. By the time we reach the border, the only word for it is desolate. The crossing at Rio Don Guillermo is, I’m convinced, the windiest border in the world. Even the police dogs show no inclination to leave their kennels. After this battering by the elements it is a relief to head towards Torres del Paine national park and Awasi Patagonia. Each ‘room’ here is an individual cabin

and comes complete with your own guide for the duration of your stay. Our guide, Tere, is knowledgeable and enthusiastic, and more than able to keep up with our incessant questions and observations. In true Patagonian style the weather is challenging and changeable. Beautiful views of the Torres themselves greet us as we drive to the lodge, stick around as we enjoy a charcuterie board and glass of wine, but vanish by the time we’re dining in the restaurant. We won’t see them again on this trip. With longer hikes off the table due to the weather, Tere works with us to put together a plan. We pack in blustery walks and scenic drives as well as a massage to knead out the weather before dinners with wine pairings from the resident sommelier. The highlight comes on our second day. We get an early start, leaving the only (human) footprints in the fresh snow to head puma spotting in the national park. Within the hour we find success. A beautiful female cat has taken down a guanaco and is beginning to hide the carcass from the watchful scavengers circling above. At this time in the morning, we’re all but alone at the sighting. Reality is beginning to loom at the end of our trip and we fly north to finish our trip in the wine region, relaxing in the opulence of Vik – a truly fascinating winery hotel with beautiful panoramic views and art-filled rooms. They each have their own personality and unique names to match. We stay in one of the exclusive glass bungalows, ‘Shape of Women’, complete with sculptures of the female form. Other rooms celebrate Japanese simplicity, holograms and even Hérmes. The change of pace allows us to reflect on everything we’ve seen and done. For me, Argentina now has a second, equally significant story in my life. In Patagonia, Sven has found a part of the world that has embedded itself in his soul. Far from thinking about our next destination, in the way we might usually, we find ourselves imagining returning to share these places with others. Going back might just be the best way to travel after all.

“Crunching through the snow and ice to the top is a slog but well worth it for the view of the lake” 28

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Top left: getting aquatinted at Estancia Cristina Top Right: Monte Fitz Roy from below Bottom left: hiking in the best of the Patagonian weather Bottom right: where the ranch meets the mountains at Estancia Cristina

RETURNING TO SOUTH AMERICA

Inked Identities Beyond the intricate detail and unique designs of body marking lies a language that transcends borders and spans centuries. Adorning the bodies of people across the globe, body markings hold diverse and multifaceted meanings, ranging from expressions of identity and spirituality to symbols of group belonging and rites of passage. Words: EMELIE STEVENSON

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INKED IDENTITIES

History and ancient practices Indigenous to the Terai region of Nepal and northern India, Tharu women have long celebrated their cultural identity and traditions through tattoos, known as ‘Godna’. Inspired mostly by nature, the designs typically include intricate line work and small, repetitive symbols across the hands, feet, limbs or chest. The Godna symbolises both beauty and marks a rite of passage, the transition from adoles-

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cence to womanhood. Historically, these tattoos were used to stop Tharu women from being kidnapped by royals, but today they are believed to ward off evil spirits and protect against diseases. However, the influence of western culture has impacted the popularity of Godna, with less and less Tharu women continuing the tradition today.

Cultural preservation Tattoos, or Tā moko, among Maori in New Zealand serve as cultural archives etched into the skin. These intricate facial and body tattoos are charged with ancestral knowledge, storytelling and the preservation of Maori heritage. Their presence allows Maori people to honour their roots and ensure the passing down of traditions and stories to future generations. Each

design is unique, reflecting the wearer’s tribal affiliation and personal experiences. Moko kauae – received by women on their lips and chin – represent leadership within the community, and traditionally feature lines and spirals that accentuate the natural lines of the face to emphasise expressions.

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Traditions that endure today The Wai Kru Festival is a remarkable annual event held in Thailand, with attendees from all over the world gathering to receive Sak Yant tattoos. Monks or master tattoo artists, known as ajarns, perform the tattooing rituals, which involve chanting and meditative techniques to infuse the tattoos with spiritual power. The festival also allows those that have previously received a Sak Yant tattoo to spiritually ‘recharge’ them, as their power is believed to wear off over time. Originally 34

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used by warriors for strength and protection in battle, today the tattoos are believed to offer blessings and spiritual guidance to those who wear them, often incorporating ancient Buddhist symbols into the designs. As pictured, Sak Yant tattoos traditionally feature geometrical shapes, animals, sacred phrases or deities. The festival is a mesmerising display, with participants engaging in prayer and blessings, paying homage to the spirits and showcasing their intricate body art with pride.

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Spiritual connections Across diverse cultures, natural motifs such as animals or plants have been incorporated into designs as symbols of protection or to represent spirituality. Vietnam, Thailand and Cambodia share the tiger as a symbol of strength, power and courage, often associated with protection and warding off evil spirits. Similarly, elephants

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hold deep cultural importance, often symbolising wisdom, longevity and loyalty. The significance of the lotus flower within Hinduism and Buddhism can often be seen reflected in tattoo design as a powerful symbol of purity, enlightenment and spiritual growth.

Past impacting present Dating back to the Edo period (17th–19th centuries), tattoos in Japan were traditionally used to mark criminals as a form of punishment. Whilst tattoos are becoming more culturally accepted, some negative implications have remained to the present day, with many public places prohibiting

entry for visitors with visible tattoos unless they are covered. Today, younger generations are challenging some of these perceptions, increasingly viewing tattoos as a form of personal expression and art, the designs often featuring colourful creatures or characters. INKED IDENTITIES PAGE TITLE

On the Tide 38

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The waters surrounding Mexico’s Baja Peninsula ebb and flow, as tides, migrations, seasons and currents slowly mark the passing of time over thousands of years. Fragile ecosystems above and below the waves hang in a delicate balance. Words: EMILY OPIE ON THE TIDE

ninhabited craggy islands, covered by sparse vegetation and dusty hills, give way to soft-sand beaches that trace the shoreline, their ripples still visible beneath the crystal-clear water. Startling grey granite slabs burst through the foamy spray to form massive sheer cliffs, some carved into arches by powerful tides and crashing waves. Tiny rocky islets and massive boulders sit marooned at sea, birds circling above and crustaceans concealed within the crags below. This is the Gulf of California, or Sea of Cortez as it’s known colloquially, which separates mainland Mexico from the Baja Peninsula, and to the peninsula's west, the North Pacific Ocean. Since its creation more than 4.5 million years ago, the Gulf of California’s perpetual movements of tides and currents, combined with the effects of geology and climate, have made these waters some of the most naturally abundant and diverse in the world. Beneath the waves The Gulf of California dazzles with its beauty – and it’s pretty impressive on paper too. It’s home to 39% of all the marine animals in the world. That’s around 900 species, a large proportion of which are endemic. Nearly 700 plant species are also found here, making this one of the most biologically rich bodies of water in the world. The diversity of landscapes, from white-sand beaches to jagged rock pools, is echoed in the marine diversity. Massive lumbering whales glide like silk through the water next to the tiny vaquita, the world's smallest porpoise. You’ll also find sea turtles, whale sharks, sea lions, dolphins, manta rays and hundreds of different fish species. The gulf is notably frequented by the largest and most varied population of whales in the world, representing a crucial mating, feeding, calving and migrational

resting place. Eastern Pacific grey whales give birth and nurse in only three locations in the world, all of which can be found on the Baja Peninsula: San Ignacio Lagoon, Magdalena Bay and Laguna Ojo de Liebre. The whales migrate here during the cold northern Arctic winters to feast on the rich nutrients created by cool currents that rise to meet the warm Mexican sunshine. And then there are the turtles. The waters off the Baja Peninsula are home to five of the world's seven sea turtle species. Green turtles can be found in Magdalena Bay, while at Cabo San Lucas, on the southernmost tip of the bay, you’ll spot enormous leatherbacks that can grow up to seven feet long. Across the country on the Yucatan Peninsula, a further two species cement Mexico’s reputation as ‘The Land of the Turtles’. In Cabo Pulmo National Park, both an ancient 20,000 year old coral reef and the tiny endangered Olive Ridley Sea Turtles are protected. A plethora of marine life thrives amid these unbelievably intricate and delicate corals, with their purple, brown, orange and pink hues. Brightly coloured parrot fish, angel fish, red snapper, rainbow fish and many, many more dart beneath the waves, along with playful sea lions, bottlenose and spinner dolphins. Complex relationships Since the first humans were recorded in the region more than 9000 years ago, the relationship between nature and humankind has been at once harmonious, destructive, respectful and protective. Human actions have become inextricably tied to the behavioural patterns of ocean life off the Baja Peninsula. Some changes, such as the disturbance of turtle nesting patterns by rising water levels driven by climate change, are global. Others, including the impact of commercial whaling, overfishing and unsustainable fishing practices, which drain the ocean of wildlife and nutrients, and damage corals, are more local. Yet positive stories also shine through these troubled times. The fishermen of San

“Nearly 700 plant species are found here, making this one of the most biologically rich bodies of water in the world.” 40

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Above: Land's End Arch, Cabo San Lucas Left: a striped marlin takes centre stage

ON THE TIDE

“Nearly 700 plant species are also found here, making this one of the most biologically rich bodies of water in the world.”

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Below: looking out over the Gulf of California near Pichilinque.

ON THE TIDE

Right: a whale shark feeding on copepods Below: a pod of dolphins in Loreto Bay

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The wild side There are a number of places where you can responsibly observe marine wildlife around the globe. In Costa Rica: stay at Lapa Rios or El Remanso and take a walk through the jungle to the beach. From the shoreline, you can watch migrating humpback whales breaching out of the water from July to October. In the Galapagos: choose to travel on more sustainable ships, which minimise pollution through sophisticated water filtration systems, efficient engines and strict maintenance schedules. We recommend the Endemic or Elite. In South Africa: Stay at Cape Town’s More Quarter Hotel, which supports social initiatives through their More Community Foundation, adding on coastal excursions to spot penguins, migrating whales, dolphins and sharks.

Ignacio Lagoon live in harmony with nature like their ancestors before them, the indigenous Cochimi people. They have treated grey whales as part of their family for generations. The fisherman fabled as the community’s first whale watcher is said to have initially been scared by the shadow of a whale in the water below his boat. The story goes that when the whale didn’t swim away, the man peered over the edge of his boat and saw a large eye looking up at him. He tentatively reached his hand out to the whale, who responded to this touch. Thus a pledge was formed to care for the whales for eternity. Today, the San Ignacio whale watchers collectively rally against commercial fishing methods. They support only small-scale, sustainable techniques in their lagoon, which is part of the massive El Vizcaino Biosphere, a vital area for hundreds of marine species. They are not alone in their respect for the natural world. Countless people who have visited the peninsula are stunned by its beauty. In the 1940s, ocean explorer Jaques Cousteau nicknamed the Gulf of California the ‘aquarium of the World’. Since 2005, twelve different areas of natural importance across the gulf have been protected by unesco, affording a level of research and recognition that’s highlighted the oceans’ plight to the world. In 2023, unesco released a report calling attention to the continued problem of illegal fishing and the fear of imminent extinction of the endemic vaquita porpoise. Yet while the waters are being watched more than ever, there are significant challenges to combatting these ongoing threats, in part due to the huge areas of land and sea in need of protection and the limited resources available. A sustainable vision for tourism The difficulty that Mexican authorities face in protecting the Gulf of California’s fragile ecosystems cannot be ignored. Some damage

is unfortunately irreversible, bringing with it important lessons for the wider global community. Scientists, private organisations and conservation projects may be monitoring, researching and ultimately working to protect these fragile ecosystems – but more work needs to be done to ensure future generations can also witness some of the most fascinating and phenomenal marine wildlife on the planet. As the sixth most visited country in the world, Mexico's tourism industry can play a huge part in these solutions, and some initiatives are already demonstrating results. Off the coast of La Paz, designated observation zones have been set up to allow visitors the opportunity to get close to whale sharks without overwhelming them. These zones are regulated with only fourteen boats allowed to visit at one time. Excursions are educational, focused on explaining the ecology of the region and conservation work. Visitors can also join scientists to working on coral restoration, learning about projects spanning the entire Mexican Pacific and even cleaning racks used for growing colonies of corals that will be placed in restoration areas of La Paz Bay. On land, guided nature hikes in the relatively less-visited Sierra de la Laguna Biosphere Reserve both relieve pressure on popular areas and offer the chance to visit a stunning, naturally beautiful area, rich in geological history, as well as a wide diversity of flora and fauna. What’s sure is that regeneration and education go hand in hand. In Bahía Magdalena, the Grupo Tortuguero de las Californias help with turtle monitoring, releasing hundreds of turtles back to their natural habitat. Elsewhere in the bay, environmental education camps instil a profound sense of responsibility and stewardship of the natural world to the next generation.

“They are not alone in their respect for the natural world. Countless people who have visited the peninsula are stunned by its beauty.” ON THE TIDE

OF BEAT

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TR AD ITION

Step into a firelit circle and discover the powerful, rhythmic singing and dancing of Kenya’s Maasai warriors. The traditional jumping dance has been keeping time for centuries and heralds a coming of age for young men. Words: TERRI DUNBAR-CURRAN BEAT OF TRADITION

ust swirls in the firelight as the young man’s feet leave the ground, rich crimson fabric brushing across his calves. Muscles flex as his body launches upwards, all power and control. Around him, a circle of red-clad warriors dip in unison – keeping time with bending knees, thrusting shoulders and chins, and rhythmic throat singing. His feet barely touch down before he propels himself skyward once more. This is adumu, the traditional jumping dance of the Maasai people of Kenya. Music and movement traditions like this one serve a variety of purposes for many cultures across Africa. From spiritual rituals and celebrations, to entertainment and even as preparation before battle – dance is integral, adding vibrant rhythm to everyday life. For the Maasai people, dancing and singing are a fundamental part of their identity. Eunoto, the ceremonies celebrating the coming-of-age of warriors, usually involve ten or more days of singing, dancing and rituals. Adumu, which means ‘to jump’ in Maa, features heavily in these traditional gatherings. Other occasions, like weddings, hunting or blessings of cattle, are also marked by their own meaningful dances. Origins and cultural significance According to their oral history, the Maasai people have lived in Kenya and central Tanzania since somewhere between the 17th and 18th centuries, having migrated south from the lower Nile valley region. Despite hundreds of years having passed, some Maasai people maintain a remarkably similar way of life to those early days in the region. As boys grow to become men, the different stages they pass through are marked by rhythm and movement, all under the watchful eyes of the elders who have been there before them. The movements and sounds of this ritual dance echoing back through the generations.

“DUST SWIRLS IN THE FIRELIGHT AS THE YOUNG MAN’S FEET LEAVE THE GROUND” 48

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A time-honoured tradition While no one is really certain of how the dance originated, it is believed that it may have begun as a way for Maasai warriors to train for battle, showcasing their strength, stamina and agility at the same time. Adumu sees the community’s morani, young warriors between the ages of 14 and 30, form a circle. Taking turns, either alone or as part of a pair, the young warriors enter the ring and begin to jump, posture controlled and heels never touching the ground. Their athleticism and motivation to impress leads to magnificent heights being attained, as the morani surrounding them match their feats by raising the pitch of their voices. In addition to the movements and singing, clothing and jewellery also play an important role. The dancers’ colourful shukas (traditional garments) are wrapped in a specific way and are often adorned with intricate beadwork. Bracelets, necklaces and earrings, mostly made of beads and shells, symbolise some of the most notable parts of Maasai culture, like identity, social standing and wealth. Spears and shields are also carried by the men as symbols of the bravery of their ancestors as well as a celebration of warrior tradition. A link between the past and present – every aspect of the dance, from clothing and weapons to movements and gestures, reinforces their cultural identity. The sonic pulse of Maasai culture Besides the incredibly high jumping, it’s the rhythmic throat-singing that adds to adumu’s significance. One of the world’s oldest forms of music, throat-singing gives the impression of more than one note or pitch being produced at the same time. In adumu, not only do the warriors sing, but you’ll often find their mothers joining in the harmony, praising their sons for their courage, and young single women encouraging their favourite participants. In fact, it’s only after the ceremony is completed, that these young men will be eligible to marry.

BEAT OF TRADITION

“TOGETHER, THE THROAT-SINGING AND DANCING COMBINE TO CREATE AN ARRESTING RHYTHMIC DISPLAY” The adamu begins with the olaranyani (lead singer) singing the first line or title (namba) of a song, with the rest of the group responding in unison. The olaranyani then continues with the verse over the group’s throat-singing. The songs, which follow themes, each have their own namba structure with a call-andresponse pattern that varies between songs. The distinctive neck movements are largely a result of the style of singing. On an outbreath the singer’s head leans forward, and then tilts back for an inward breath. Careful movements of the lips, tongue, larynx and jaw all combine to create the beautiful sound that accompanies adumu. One of the characteristics of the Maasai’s singing is that it uses drone polyphony, where one note is held continuously through the song, something that other African tribes don’t usually do. Together, the throat-singing and dancing combine to create an arresting rhythmic display, which has made this aspect of Maasai life recognisable around the world. Preserving tradition in a modern world A semi-nomadic and pastoral people, the Maasai live by herding cattle and goats. So it is unsurprising that one of the biggest challenges they’ve faced is the diminishing size of the land they live on, first as the Europeans arrived in Africa, and then as cities grew and surrounding societies modernised. Despite this, the Maasai have maintained their traditions, determined to preserve their culture and way of life for future generations.

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One of the knock-on effects of less land is that their cattle are more prone to attack by predators like lions. This often leads to the community responding by hunting lions in order to save their livestock, further thinning the already rapidly dwindling numbers of lions in the region. Initiatives like the Maasai Wilderness Conservation Trust are working to restore the balance that once existed between humans and wildlife. One of the ways the trust is doing this is by reimbursing the communities for livestock that is killed by lions, as well as employing warriors as lion scouts, demonstrating the economic value of the presence of such animals on their land. There are also camps and lodges playing their part. Angama Amboseli, for instance, is an small lodge in the heart of Kimana Sanctuary, Kenya’s first community-owned conservancy. It is owned by 844 Maasai family members, and the majority of the team at Angama come from the local communities, including the guides, naturalists and chefs. Experiencing the Maasai rhythm After a day of exploring, find a comfortable spot in the boma at Angama Amboseli and enjoy the sounds and sights of a Maasai warrior performance. Over in the Mara Conservancies, guests celebrating a special milestone can experience a meaningful, sunset Maasai blessing at certain camps. Or allow yourself to be enveloped in a vibrant cultural celebration in the Maasai Mara as you learn more about your welcoming hosts. Angama Mara Craft Studio in Mara Conservancies also offers a fantastic opportunity to learn more about their traditions. Here Maasai women showcase their beading techniques and even let you try your hand at this delicate artform. Taking the time to appreciate and experience the deep cultural roots of the Maasai people, through their stories, art, singing and dancing can result in a truly life-changing visit to Africa. And sharing the significance of such cultural traditions can ultimately help to protect and preserve them.

An African Trilogy with Jacada

Fifteen days, three countries, a once-in-a-lifetime experience. An African Trilogy trip allows you to experience some of sub-Saharan Africa’s highlights in luxury and style. This trip is the perfect example of the kind of adventure we can craft for you. You might choose to begin in Kenya where you’ll get to experience the culture of the Maasai people as well as incredible safari drives, and possibly even witness the Great Migration. Next, you could head for the Zambian town of Livingstone where you would be

able to explore both the Zambian and Zimbabwean side of the Victoria Falls. Then end the trip in Cape Town where you can fill your days with incredible food, mountain views, excellent wines and more.

Start planning your own two-week African adventure

BEAT OF TRADITION

A Grand Affair 52

Inspirations

World travel with unlimited time By sea, rail, land or air, Europe lends itself perfectly to the age-old idea of a grand tour. Words: TERRI DUNBAR-CURRAN

In days gone by, some 400 years ago, the grand tour was quite a tradition. The 17th and 18th centuries saw wealthy young men and women on the cusp of entering elite society, enhancing their education and life experience by spending months or even years touring some of the greatest European cities, garnering cultural enlightenment along the way. Huge advancements in transportation over the centuries that have rolled by since then have changed everything. As rail was modernised and eventually passenger planes came in to land, travellers longing for adventure no longer had to rely on ships and face the often treacherous roads between cities and across snow-capped peaks. Travel became far more accessible and journeys that would once take weeks, could now take no more than a day. Perfect, if you have a tight schedule. Yet, travel, when unbound by time constraints, still presents a myriad of possibilities. Especially if you’re the kind of traveller who considers the journey an important part of the overall experience, and not just a way to get from A to B at speed. In recent years there has been a marked return to slower travel, something that often goes hand-in-hand with luxury, as well as deeper, more meaningful experiences. Taking the time to really get to know the places you’re visiting allows you the space to connect with different communities and slow down to a pace that matches the rhythm of daily life. Today, the grand tour is undergoing a make-over. The idea of visiting new places and broadening one’s own experience at a gentle pace remains, now coupled with an awareness that the impact we leave behind is just as important as the experiences we take away.

What better place to dip your toes into this rewarding way of travelling than in the place it all began: Europe. A European adventure The options are seemingly endless in Europe, especially when you’re unfettered by time constraints. Imagine a private driving tour of Paris, and a behind-the-scenes look at the Palace of Versailles with access to the private apartments of King Louis XIV and Madame de Pompadour. Or touring the ancient monuments of Athens and relaxing in Santorini as the sunset drops into the sparkling Aegean Sea. How about scaling the heights of Renaissance art and culture in Florence, strolling the spectacular Piazza del Duomo in Siena, perusing hidden galleries, museums and palazzos in Venice, and learning the art of pizza making with a chef in Rome? Consider taking time to explore Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia, with an evening boat cruise, or take a private tour of the hilltop walled village of Smartno. Having extra time also means you’re more able to truly embrace some of the local customs. If you find yourself in Italy, you might leisurely fall into step with the locals and their passeggiata tradition – a short stroll after a pleasant meal. Or in Spain, welcome the opportunity for a siesta, an afternoon nap, or even just a break from the busyness of the day.

A GRAND AFFAIR

Spain: For architecture, pilgrimage trails and beautiful beaches A highlight of an extended journey through Spain is exploring the architectural evolution from Southern Andalucia with its Moorish influence, to the Roman influences around Merida, the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, and western Christian architecture along the Camino de Santiago. And of course, there’s Antoni Gaudi’s unmistakable stamp on Barcelona. His amazing buildings and sculptures are dotted throughout the city. The walking and hiking trails of the Camino de Santiago itself are also well worth treading on a longer European trip. Established at the beginning of the 9th century after the discovery of the relics of St James the Great, the Way of St James became a major pilgrimage route of mediaeval Christianity. The winding paths along

the rugged northern coast reward walkers with fantastic ocean views. Hear stories about life in Spain in the mediaeval period as you walk from the town of Melide, passing beneath chestnut and oak trees and into fragrant eucalyptus forests. This part of the contemplative Way takes you past Boente and Castañeda to Arzúa, a town known for its cheese. Slow the pace even further with a spell on the coast exploring the beautiful beaches of Malaga and the Costa del Sol, Catalonia and the Costa Brava, or Marbella. A longer trip is the perfect chance to combine a journey through Spain with some time in Portugal. It’s another opportunity to take in exquisite architecture in Porto, Lisbon and Sintra. Or explore the lovely beaches in the south. It’s even possible to have the same driver across both countries.

Left: Gaudí’s Casa Batlló in Barcelona, Spain Right: outdoor cafe life in Alacati, Turkey

Inspirations

Turkey: For dramatic landscapes, history and culture One of the most prominent destinations on an 18th-century grand tour, Turkey is still a firm favourite on the list. As you journey across the country, the changing landscapes, from coastal cliffs and other-worldly cave systems to terraced pools and snow-dusted peaks, make for a most memorable experience. A grand journey takes you from the cityscapes of the cultural capital, Istanbul, and exploring the shimmering blue waters of the Bosphorus Sea and the surrounding palaces and mansions, to the lunar landscapes and rock formations of Cappadocia. Take to the air in a hot air balloon or lace up and go hiking. Izmir,

with its invigorating sea breeze, offers the chance to explore the archaeological sites of Ephesus and Pergamum, ushering you into the ancient past. And don’t miss the world-class vineyards in Urla and the region’s sleepy seaside villages. Pamukkale in the west is known for the mineral-rich thermal waters which flow down white terraces – breathtakingly beautiful. Include time in Sultanahmet, the oldest neighbourhood in Istanbul and discover the Hagia Sophia, which was completed in the 6th century, and the iconic Blue Mosque with its six minarets. Get a taste for Turkish life in the captivating labyrinth of stalls that is Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar. It’s a treasure trove of sensory delights that you can spend ages exploring. Dis-

cover everything from bright textiles and intricate woven pieces, to aromatic spices and exquisite jewellery. Set beside the turquoise waters of the Aegean Sea, you’ll find the charming town of Alacati. Vibrant cerise and magenta bougainvillaea adorn whitewashed buildings along historic streets. The narrow cobblestone alleyways packed with quaint cafes and interesting boutiques invite you to explore at a stroll. It’s along this same coastline that you’ll discover the formidable fortress of Bodrum Castle. Behind its weathered stone walls is the Museum of Underwater Archaeology and a trove of maritime artefacts and cultural treasures.

A GRAND AFFAIR

Left: Skogafoss waterfall in Iceland Right: Trsteno Arboretum on Croatia’s southern Dalmatian coast

Iceland: For otherworldly landscapes and northern lights Let your grand tour take you further north and spend your time exploring the stunning and varied landscapes of Iceland. From glacial lakes and icebergs to rugged volcanic plains, red-hot lava fields and steaming geothermal geysers, the otherworldly scenery here gives you a glimpse into how landscapes change through the ages. Taking your time means you’ll get to fully appreciate the beauty of this fascinating country where fire and ice coexist, as well as delve into the culture. And of course, having a little more time on your hands lends itself to the increased possibility of spotting the celestial ballet that is the northern lights in winter. To reduce the amount of not-always-fruitful hunting required, choose a hotel which is known for sightings and you’ll be able to spend your time relaxing until you get the call that the phenomenon is visible, with a specific location.

Inspirations

Croatia: For coastal towns and island living With its hidden coves and stunningly clear waters, Croatia lends itself to coastal exploration. Take time to enjoy sun-soaked Split, enchanting Zadar and fairytale-like Rovinj before hopping onto a boat and discovering some of the thousands of islands off the Adriatic coast. Immerse yourself in unhurried island living. The shoulder months of May and September are particularly rewarding times to visit if you’re looking to truly slow down and make the most of this beautiful part of the world. Deeply connected to the land and traditions, Croatia embraces the philosophy of ‘pomalo’, taking things slowly when it comes to food, and life in general. Locally sourced, seasonal ingredients are given pride of place on menus and meals are enjoyed slowly, with a focus on community. Get comfortable at the table and savour the opportunity to connect with the culture and flavours that make this country so unique.

Start planning Taking a grand tour with Jacada means embracing opportunities for deeper connections with the people and places you visit. Food and wine • Enjoy a private tapas cooking class with a chef in Seville, Spain. • Visit the Kostem Olive Oil Museum and have an olive oil tasting in Izmir, Turkey. • Spend a day visiting local farms and sampling fresh produce in the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, Iceland. • Go truffle hunting and enjoy a wild-table picnic dinner in the forest outside Split, Croatia. Art • Tour the streets of Madrid in Spain, admiring the city’s everchanging graffiti scene. • Watch the mystical ritual of the Mevlevi Order in Turkey, whose whirling dance has been declared a UNESCO Heritage of Humanity. • Visit the majestic Meštrovic Gallery and its manicured gardens in Split, Croatia. History • Learn about Madrid’s history on an all-encompassing tour of the city. • Visit the Izmir Archaeology Museum in Turkey and browse its exhibitions of artefacts. • Immerse yourself in the rich tapestry of Viking heritage on a tour of Reykjavik, Iceland. Nature • Embark on a 40-kilometre bike excursion along Spain’s Cantabrian Coast. • Admire the remarkable rock formations, fairy chimneys and lunar-like landscapes of Cappadocia, Turkey. (above) • Set off on a unique hiking exploration of Krupa River Canyon in Zadar, Croatia.

Get in touch to start planning → enquire@jacadatravel.com

A GRAND AFFAIR

Art Through the Ages One of the cradles of human civilisation, Egypt has been an artistic centre since time immemorial. Words: LAUREN KEITH

Right: hieroglyphics in the Valley of the Kings

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ART THROUGH THE AGES

ome of the most recognisable pieces of art in the world, such as the 10kg solid gold death mask of Tutankhamun, grew from the minds of the people of Egypt. The distinctive style of ancient Egyptian art hardly changed in more than 3000 years, and remarkable past achievements in architecture and art still show their influence today. Though art styles have changed significantly over thousands of years of prosperity, colonisation and revolution, Egypt remains an important conservator and breeding ground for beautiful and evocative work today. The art of Ancient Egypt’s New Kingdom Seen as the peak of ancient Egypt’s empire, the New Kingdom was a golden age of creativity. Modern historians divide the timeline of ancient Egypt’s lengthy pharaonic history into three kingdoms (Old, Middle and New), which are bookended by ‘intermediate periods’ marred by war and foreign invasion. Times of peace and prosperity were creative highpoints in ancient Egypt. During the New Kingdom, which lasted from the 16th to the 11th century BC, the country was reunified and expanded its boundaries into Palestine and Syria, allowing the accumulation of wealth and the opening of trade routes. While many visitors to Egypt might not have heard specifically of the New Kingdom,

some of this era’s pharaohs are widely known names, including Tutankhamun, Ramses II and Akhenaten. Ancient Egyptians did not make art for admiration or public display but to perform a religious or funerary task – it’s thought that they didn’t even have a word for ‘art’. The immaculately painted tombs in the Valley of the Kings in Luxor would have been seen only by a select few, such as priests and members of the royal family, and many of the unearthed treasures that are lauded today, such as Tut’s golden mask, were created to be sealed in a sarcophagus. The scenes that decorate tombs are of a religious nature, often depicting the pharaoh making offerings to the gods or funerary texts, such as the Book of the Dead, a collection of magic spells intended to help the deceased navigate the afterlife. The most superlative tomb in the Valley of the Kings is that of Seti I, a 19th Dynasty pharaoh, whose burial place is the longest, deepest and most highly decorated of any in the valley – or the entire country. It was the first tomb with a vaulted ceiling and also the first to be painted with the full collection of funerary texts. As you descend into the tomb, you pass beneath colourful ceilings painted with cobra-headed vultures and child-like stars. Walls show Seti I making offerings to the sun god Ra-Horakhty before being presented to Osiris, god of the afterlife. The construction and decoration of the pharaohs’ tombs took place throughout their life over many decades, and just how long this process took is particularly evident in the tomb of Tutankhamun,

Left: inside the Safarkhan Art Gallery (see page 64) Right: the interior of the temple of Seti I in Abydos.

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ART THROUGH THE AGES

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Left: the Dendera Temple of Hathor; one of the best-preserved temple complexes Right: an ancient drachma, a silver coin from the time of King Ptolemy

who died prematurely at 18. The tomb he was buried in – the most famous in the valley after Howard Carter’s surprise excavation 100 years ago – is thought to have been started for a non-royal burial and was then taken over for Tutankhamun at his sudden death as the original tomb slated for Tut was far from finished. Most walls were left undecorated, except for those in the burial chamber, which show common motifs of the deceased with deities, spells from the Book of the Dead and scenes from the Opening of the Mouth ritual, which reanimated the mummy with their senses so that he could see, hear, eat and breathe in the afterlife. The paint was applied to the walls so hastily that it grew spots of mould, indicating that the workers didn’t let it dry fully before sealing the tomb. The occasionally strange look of figures in ancient Egyptian art – with limbs coming from odd angles and stacks of people and offering pots – was intentional. Art provided permanence: what was displayed in this art is what would appear in the afterlife. With so much wealth and time poured into decorating and building tombs, it would seem that the ancient Egyptians were obsessed with death, but in actuality they loved their lives on earth and wanted to make sure they continued for eternity. This veneration of the afterlife continued after Alexander the Great took control of Egypt from the Persians, as well as when Rome came knocking after the defeat of Cleopatra and Marc Antony.

The influence of Greece and Rome The ancient Egyptians saw the Greek Ptolemies as liberators from the Persians, and the Ptolemies sought to legitimise their place in power by adopting aspects of Egyptian culture, including using the title of ‘pharaoh’ and building monumental temples in traditional designs. Some of ancient Egypt’s most beautiful and impressive temples, such as those in Edfu and Esna, are actually Ptolemaic-era constructions and not quite as ancient as you might think at first glimpse. These landmarks do have a distinctive Greek flavour, with elaborate capitals on the columns and pillared porticos, showing just how thoroughly blended hieroglyphs and Hellenistic style became. The depiction of people in art during Egypt’s Greco-Roman era found a more life-like classical form, but revered Egyptian gods often still made an appearance on funerary goods. Funerary art also became more democratised and available to commoners instead of only the crowned. Anubis, the jackal-headed god of mummification, was painted on some Greco-Roman coffins, and Horus, the sky god with the head of a falcon, was sometimes shown as a Roman army officer. While Rome was initially fascinated by Egyptian gods and traditions, the arrival of the Roman Empire spelled the end of ancient Egypt. Instead of combining cultures, the Romans looked to conquer, converting temples into churches with the rise of Christianity and ART THROUGH THE AGES

ending the use of hieroglyphic script. In the subsequent centuries, Egypt was further conquered by the Arabs, the Ottomans, the French and the British. 21st-Century Creativity Since shaking off the shackles of colonialism in the 1950s, Egypt has used art as an avenue of finding its identity, reckoning with national political and religious issues, and seeking greater freedom. Street art saw a meteoric rise during the 2011 Arab Spring protests and their aftermath as ‘artivism’ and a way to express ideas without government censorship. Many pieces had unfiltered political commentary or were portraits of people who had been killed by police and government security forces. The centre of the uprising in Cairo was Tahrir Square, and the nearby street of Mohamed Mahmoud became something of an open-air art gallery. Famous pieces included Ganzeer’s Martyr Murals, Omar Fathy’s Illi Kalif Ma Matsh (‘The one who delegates doesn't die’), a painting of deposed Egyptian President Hosni Mubarak and Field Marshal Hussein Tantawi, who became the de facto head of state after Mubarak’s ouster, as two sides of the same face, and Alaa Awad’s Marching Women, painted in a neo-pharaonic style with rows of women holding papyrus scrolls of knowledge and other female figures climbing a ladder that symbolises the revolution. However, laws enacted since the uprising have quashed street art in the capital, and the vibrant

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murals have been scrubbed away, painted over or demolished, living on only in books and blogs. Both famous pieces mentioned above were removed in 2012, and though street artists came back with tongue-in-cheek tags (‘Congratulations on the new paint’), today many of them fear arrest, imprisonment or worse. The most iconic large-scale work in Cairo now is Perception by French-Tunisian ‘calligraffiti’ artist El Seed, who blends Arabic calligraphy with street art. The piece shares an important but different message. It’s painted across 50 buildings in the neglected neighbourhood of Manshiyat Nasr, derided as ‘Garbage City’ for the community of informal rubbish collectors who live here. The artwork is visible as a whole only from a specific viewpoint on Mokattam Mountain in this district, and the scrawled words are from the Coptic Saint Athanasius of Alexandria, who said, ‘Anyone who wants to see the sunlight clearly needs to wipe his eye first’. Cairo’s contemporary galleries channel this lively, youthful spirit. In the upscale Nile-side district of Garden City, the dynamic Medrar for Contemporary Art often showcases work by young, boundary-pushing Egyptian artists. The Nile island of Zamalek also has a particularly dense concentration of galleries. Seek out vibrant paintings at the family-run Picasso Art Gallery, see the latest creations at Ubuntu and discover the up-and-coming names of the Egyptian art world at Safarkhan.

Above: Perception by by French-tunisian ‘calligraffiti’ artist El Seed Left: the Obelisk of Ramses II in Tahrir Square

ART THROUGH THE AGES

Inspirations

68 Dawn til Dusk 72 Paradise Found 76 Unlocking Memories 80 Sipping Over Centuries 82 Life in Colour 86 Savoir Faire 88 24 Hours in the Serengeti 92 How I Travel PAGE TITLE

Dawn til Dusk Discover the captivating passage of time in Luang Prabang as the town transforms from a tranquil, slow-paced haven by day into a vibrant, lantern-lit spectacle by night. Words: BEVERLEY LENNON

Left: monks walking through Luang Prabang Right: rice paddies outside Luang Prabang and the Kuang Si Falls

Luang Prabang by Day As the first rays of sun begin to break, they cast a gentle kiss upon the ancient temples, leaving everything they touch in a golden glow. The scent of incense wafts through the air. By 5am, monks adorned in saffron robes move gracefully through the streets, collecting alms with silent reverence. Down by the river, the Mekong glistens, reflecting the misty mountains that cradle the town. And so, as the day begins to unfold. Luang Prabang awakens. Step into tradition Rise before dawn to witness a remarkable sight: slews of barefoot monks emerging from temple gates in a solemn procession known as Tak Bat (or Sai Bat). Every morning, they wind their way through the historic town centre, a unesco World Heritage Site since 1995. The sleepy riverside city comes alive with hushed anticipation as both locals and travellers line the sidewalks. They await the passing of the monks, bearing alms that include food and heartfelt donations. In the quietude of the early morning, the ceremony unfolds in profound silence, a form of meditation in itself. Breakfast done differently As you wander the town's ancient cobblestone alleys, they whisper tales of monarchs, monks and sacred temples, each step resonating with the echoes of centuries past. But the true essence of this mystical land lies deeper, concealed within the verdant embrace of its lush jungles. Just a 45-minute drive from the historic heart of Luang Prabang lie the cascading Kuang Si Falls. Renowned for their emerald waters, these waterfalls have long captivated the hearts of visitors. With Jacada, a truly exclusive experience awaits. Gain private access before the world awakens from its slumber, breakfasting against the backdrop of a majestic 60-metre-high three-tiered cascade.

Inspirations

Cultivating knowledge In the outskirts of Luang Prabang, where time seems to slow, sun-kissed paddies glisten. They serve as a reminder of the intricate mastery that allows the humble grain to grace our tables. As you stand amidst their perfect lines, it's easy to take for granted the grain that sustains billions around the globe. The 14-step rice-growing process unfolds before you, from the meticulous sowing of the seeds by hand, to the diligent care bestowed upon the growing plants, and the rhythmic dance of harvest. Join the farmers and learn the intricacies of each step. Through this immersive experience, the secrets of the trade are unveiled: the ancient techniques of crushing, winding and grinding that transform raw grains into the dishes we cherish. Witness the final steps of soaking and steaming, culminating in a satisfying meal where you can savour the fruits of your newfound knowledge. The path from seed to plate is a testament to the dedication and resilience of countless farmers worldwide. Set sail As the late-afternoon sun bathes the Mekong in a fiery orange glow, it sets the stage for the adventure that is about to begin: a fascinating journey along Southeast Asia’s longest river. At this time of the day, the river undergoes a breathtaking transformation, mirroring the vivid hues of the sky and unfurling into a tranquil expanse. The Mekong River is known as the 'Mother of Waters'. Meandering gracefully through the heart of Luang Prabang, its life-giving currents serve as an eternal wellspring of sustenance for countless communities. Originating in China's Tibetan Plateau, it journeys through Myanmar, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia and, finally, Vietnam, where it fans out into the intricate Mekong Delta before merging with the South China Sea. This transboundary river not only sustains the livelihoods of millions but also weaves together the cultures, traditions and ecosystems of these nations, making it a vital thread in the fabric of Asia's landscape and heritage. Onboard a sunset cruise, you’re offered a chance to witness a centuries-old flow of reverence and transience.

DAWN TIL DUSK

Above: a display of traditional parasols for sale Above right: dining at Manda de Laos Below: preparing for a Baci ceremony Below right: the night market springs to life

Inspirations

Luang Prabang by Night Night time brings with it the most playful side of Luang Prabang. Streets light up with the flicker of a thousand paper lanterns, their warm glow casting a spell on the town. Night markets spring to life, bustling with the chatter of eager shoppers and the sizzle of street food stalls. That’s when everything comes alive. Foodie adventures Once the sun has set, a symphony of sights, scents and sounds converge to create an immersive experience like no other. At the local night market, the air is filled with tantalising aromas of lemongrass, lime and galangal. Sticky rice skewers grill on open flames and spicy noodles simmer in fragrant broth, tempting tastebuds with savoury delights. Traditional Lao textiles, meticulously handwoven by local artisans, drape elegantly from wooden stalls. Their vibrant patterns and intricate designs tell the stories of generations past, showcasing the rich cultural tapestry of Luang Prabang.

Jeu de boules As you stroll through the town’s charming streets, the French influence is palpable, etched into the architecture and everyday rhythms. Perhaps surprising, it's a leisurely pastime that truly captures the essence of this historical bond: the game of pétanque. Joining the locals for an evening match is akin to stepping into a sepia-toned postcard brought to life. Courtyards and neighbourhood parks become the stage for this quintessentially French pursuit, reminiscent of boules but nuanced with a touch of Laotian charm. The objective is simple: skillfully toss metal balls toward a smaller target ball, aiming for precision and outwitting your opponents. Cultural immersion Graced by over 30 temples, each a testament to the region's rich history and spiritual heritage, Luang Prabang emerges as a living testament to Laos' enduring cultural legacy. The ancient town is a treasure trove of customs and traditions, a living museum of Lao culture that invites you to step back in time. Every corner of it bears witness to age-old rituals. As night descends, you’re offered a chance to immerse yourself in the Lao Baci ceremony. The sacred ritual symbolises deep connections to ancestral roots and spiritual traditions. Hosted within a local's home, you make offerings and tie silk threads around each other's wrists as a gesture of goodwill, blessing and protection. In the background, local performances unfold, commemorating the true essence of this meaningful ceremony.

Charlie recommends Just back from an amazing adventure through Luang Prabang, our travel designer, Charlie, has returned with a wealth of firsthand knowledge. Spend the night at: Rosewood Luang Prabang “A long-time Jacada favourite, Rosewood Luang Prabang is a hilltop jungle retreat designed by the renowned Bill Bensley, the creative genius behind the iconic Capella Ubud in Bali and Shinta Mani Wild in Cambodia. Choose between a collection of exquisite rooms, villas or safari style tents, all of which are thoughtfully set amidst the backdrop of a cascading waterfall.”

Book a table at: Manda de Laos Restaurant “For a true Laotian fine dining experience, you’d be hard pressed to find somewhere more atmospheric than Manda de Laos Restaurant. Upon arrival, you’re guided to the main restaurant area which overlooks three unesco-listed lotus ponds. Kick off the evening with their enticing Lao-inspired cocktails. In the kitchen, time-honoured recipes are lovingly preserved and presented in the form of an exceptional 11-course culinary experience.” See more of Charlie’s adventures around the world via the link below.

DAWN TIL DUSK

Paradise Found In tranquillity on secluded shores, time surrenders its hurried nature and gifts precious moments just for two… Words: BEVERLEY LENNON

Islas Secas, Panama Some 20 miles off Panama's west coast, in the Gulf of Chiriquí within the Central American Pacific, lies the extraordinary Islas Secas – a vision brought to life by conservationist Louis Bacon. Approaching the island by boat, it appears untouched by human presence. It’s only upon setting foot on land that you can discern the seven tented casitas discreetly concealed within a lush tropical forest. Only 24 guests are welcomed to Islas Secas at any given time, creating an exclusive setting that also allows wildlife to thrive. Bacon has created a retreat where guests can immerse themselves in the wonders of the natural world, including the annual migration of humpback whales. 72

Inspirations

A commitment to environmental stewardship is evident. The resort is powered by solar-generated energy, every scrap of food waste finds purpose through recycling initiatives, and wastewater undergoes a transformative journey, finding new life in the irrigation of the island’s lush landscapes. Choose to spend your days exploring one of the world’s richest marine ecosystems, perhaps asking the staff to arrange a surprise beach barbeque as the sun sinks towards the horizon. It’s possible to completely privatise Islas Secas, making the entire island your playground, free from distractions except than the sound of the waves.

The Brando, French Polynesia Set against a breathtaking backdrop of fan-shaped palms and surrounded by azure lagoons, The Brando, a private island resort in French Polynesia, is just 30 miles from Tahiti. Yet despite its proximity to the archipelago’s largest island, Tetiaroa feels like a world away. Accessible exclusively by a quick light plane flight, this pristine sanctuary is a champion of outstanding conservation practices, proudly holding French Polynesia’s first LEED certification (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design). At the heart of this tropical paradise, 35 beachfront villas and one private residence stand in perfect harmony along a stretch of fine caster-sugar sands. Offering one, two, or three bedrooms, every lodging features a private plunge pool with views over the world's largest body of water: the Pacific Ocean. Varua Te Ora Spa invites you to experience holistic Polynesian-inspired therapies and a range of wellness treatments. Massages at Fare Manu – a suspended

bird nest resting in the treetops – allow couples to connect with both nature and each other in an intimate, private setting. Although there's hardly any reason to leave your cocoon, venturing out by boat allows you to discover the treasures of the neighbouring isles, including impressive bird colonies (depending on the season). Along the sea's surface, protected barrier reefs teem with vibrant marine life, schools of turtles, stingrays and sharks. The Brando's acclaimed dining, curated by French chef Jean Imbert, presents modern twists on classics, highlighting Tetiaroa's locally sourced ingredients and authentic Polynesian flavours. Barefoot private dining on an islet elevates the romance, a table for two set at the water's edge.

PARADISE FOUND

Song Saa, Cambodia Bid farewell to the lively rhythm of Sihanoukville as you step onto a private speedboat. Over the next 45 minutes, you slice through the Gulf of Thailand, heading towards the Koh Rong archipelago off the southern coast of Cambodia. As a series of primaeval islands come into view on the horizon, the twin islands of Song Saa emerge from the ocean, set amid a 100-hectare marine reserve. In the embrace of Song Saa’s natural splendour, 27 villas are meticulously designed to blend with the pristine surroundings. Wander along the sandy paths and you'll discover a unique sense of seclusion and privacy. A series of one and two-bedroom overwater bungalows snakes out to the sea, below them turtles leisurely grazing on seagrass alongside schools of parrot fish, sea horses and spotted rays. 74

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Song Saa’s ethos is rooted in sustainability. Virtually every facet of each structure, and nearly every piece of furniture, features upcycled local wood sourced and the craftsmanship of local artisans. The Song Saa Foundation is a non-profit organisation with a mission to safeguard the habitats of the Koh Rong Archipelago and enhance the well-being of its communities through a diverse range of conservation and humanitarian initiatives. Join their conservation team for a tour of Prek Svay village on the neighbouring island, where you can witness firsthand the foundation's commitment to supporting the local community.

Kisawa Sanctuary, Mozambique To understand the true meaning of paradise, you need to look no further than Kisawa Sanctuary. This slice of heaven is set within 300 hectares on the southern tip of Benguerra Island in the Bazaruto Archipelago – Mozambique’s first marine national park. Here, time exists in its own fluid rhythm. The clock's ticking is replaced by the rustle of palm leaves. Watches are rendered meaningless as the sun takes charge, orchestrating the flow of hours. At this all-inclusive sanctuary, a dedicated personal service team stands ready to cater to your every whim at any time of the day or night, as days effortlessly blend into a harmonious continuum. A cap on the guest count means Kisawa feels perennially quiet. Just 11 bungalow residences are spread across the island, some of which sit on the calmer side of the cove, others perched amidst the dunes by the ocean. Each residence comes complete with an exclusive stretch of soft-sand beach, an infinity pool and an eclectic mini moke.

The range of bespoke experiences and activities at Kisawa includes hikes with a nature guide to spot more than 150 bird species and climbing the red dune for sunrise. As night falls, moonlight barbeque dinners on the beach and wild dune glamping beckon, or the “pizza tuk tuk” delivers slices to your residence. If you travel in search of natural wonders, you’ll find them in astonishing quantities in Mozambique. Dolphins, sea turtles, manta rays, dugongs: you never know what you’ll see in these waters. Adding to the spectacle, humpback whales grace the seas with their majestic presence during their annual migration from July to October. The wealth of wildlife here has captivated oceanic researchers. As a guest at Kisawa, not only does your stay contribute to vital research funding, but you also have the opportunity to join marine scientists from the Bazaruto Center for Scientific Studies (Africa’s first permanent ocean observatory) as they strive to protect the future of this delicate ecosystem.

PARADISE FOUND

Unlocking Memories In the delicate dance between fragrance and memory, the scent of perfume can transport you to moments otherwise lost to time. Words: BRITTANY REEVE

he idea that our sense of smell is linked to time has been around for hundreds of years. The instant that a scent conjures a memory is known as a Proustian moment, as Proust was among the first to write of its effects. It has been found that memories associated with smells are more likely to be remembered due to their evocative power. Scent is the closest thing we have to time travel; whether it’s the faint smell of food being cooked from a restaurant kitchen as you walk by, or the lingering cologne on an old coat. In an instant, you're transported back to a moment you may have long forgotten – perhaps a family dinner, a past romance, or a summer evening under the stars. Perfume in particular is often the most evocative of memories, especially those linked to travel. I have a perfume that transports me back in time whenever I wear it. Bought by my mother for my sixteenth birthday, I wore it the summer when we toured Italy. Now when I put it on, I’m instantly whisked away to Lake Garda, listening to the bells of the church peeling in the night sky and the crash of waves against the shore – or I’m walking along the cobbles in Florence as a man plays a tune on his flute further down the street. Crafting attar The history of perfume spans centuries, with one of its earliest forms originating over 400 years ago in Kannauj, India. Attar, an essential oil derived from plants, is at the heart of this fragrant narrative. Known as degh-bhapka in Hindi, the artisanal method of creating attar uses copper stills fuelled by cow dung and wood. Kannauj itself is a place lost to time, with archways a whisper of their former incarnation, when the city was part of the Harshavardhana Empire in the sixth century. Down the narrow lanes of the main market you’ll find shops displaying glass bottles of attar, and men sniffing vials and swiping perfumed cotton pads behind their ears. You can watch as the craftsmen meticulously scoop rose petals into copper stills and top them with fresh water – the initial steps in the intricate process of attar-making. It will be many months before you’ll be able to smell the finished product of this exact rose attar, but the small bottles in the shops available for you to buy can serve as a reminder of the history of this small city.

Inspirations

A festival of flowers Grasse, lovingly called the perfume capital of the world, earned its title by making scented gloves using local flowers and herbs. They were originally used to mask the odour of noblemen’s well-worn leather garments. Today, the city stands proudly as a UNESCO World Heritage site, a testament to its enduring legacy in the world of perfumery. You’ll see an abundance of flowers here: iris, jasmine, violet and the stunning Centifolia rose that’s become the emblem of Grasse over the years. During the Rose Festival during the month of May, the entire town turns pink to commemorate the flower and those who produce it. With roses spread across the streets in captivating designs, and atomisers spraying the delicate scent of roses into the air, it’s a true celebration complete with dancing and music performances. Jasmine is one of the blooms that first started Grasse’s perfume industry, and has been found in this region of France since the 17th century. It takes centre stage during the annual Fête du Jasmin, a lively celebration that takes place over the first

Left: blooms on show during the Rose Festival in Grasse Above: the town of Grasse and ancient stills used in perfume-making

UNLOCKING MEMORIES

weekend of August, spanning three days of vibrant festivities. During this event, the local community comes together to honour the region's perfume creators, flower growers, and, of course, the beloved jasmine. You’ll long be whisked back to the French Riviera when you take one of their perfumes home. You can even choose from more than 100 essences to craft a personalised perfume, each spritz transporting you back to this enchanting town.

Above: the Duomo in Florence and fragrances from Officina ProfumoFarmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella Right: the Perfume River, Hue

Inspirations

Incense-making In Jiuzhaigou, China, the history of incense-making has been an important part of Tibetan culture for centuries. Crafted meticulously by hand, these incense sticks are composed solely of pure herbs, spices, and flowers. Unlike traditional incense, there's no bamboo stick here to hold everything together, making them truly distinctive. There are many different types of incense, from rope incense to the famous Mindroling Monastery incense, for which the recipe is only known to a few lamas. The act of making traditional Tibetan incense includes grinding your chosen wood, herbs and flowers into a paste with water and stones before squeezing it out

“Scent is the closest thing we have to time travel; whether it’s the faint smell of food being cooked from a restaurant kitchen as you walk by, or the lingering cologne on an old coat”

through a bull horn. It isn’t just perfume that can hold memories of travel; light the end of an incense stick and let yourself be enveloped by scents of sandalwood, saffron and clove. On the perfume river The Hương River crosses the city of Hue in Vietnam. It’s a beautiful sight in the autumn (fall), when orchard blossoms cascade into the water, infusing it with fragrance. Kayaking leisurely down the river as dusk falls across the city skyline is a delightful experience, with the colours and smells of the changing seasons all around you. Head on to visit incense-making villages and the village of Thanh Tien, where you can learn how to craft paper lotus flowers reminiscent of those that float on the river. The queen’s water Known for its Renaissance art and architecture, Florence is a city whose history is also infused with perfume. Just steps away from the Basilica of Santa Maria Novella, on the outskirts, you’ ll find Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, the world’s oldest pharmacy. It was founded by Dominican friars, and the production of scented waters here can be traced back to the late 1300s. To mark its 800th anniversary, the Firenze 1221 Edition was unveiled: a tribute to the gift of Florentine noblewoman Caterina de' Medici to the future King of France, her husband for whom she left Florence. Acqua della Regina, meaning 'the queen's water,' is the oldest fragrance found within the pharmacy's historic walls. A celebrated art Perfume has long been part of Moroccan culture. Time-honoured techniques, such as steam distillation to extract essential oils from plants continue to be practised today. In Marrakesh, the Musée du Parfum takes you through the journey of making a scent, from distillation to bottling, and the composition process at the perfume organ. Each room unveils the diverse stages of transforming raw materials into perfumes, cosmetics, body care products and well-being essentials. You can even sign up for a workshop to craft your own bespoke blend. Get in touch to start planning a sensory journey → enquiries@jacadatravel.com

UNLOCKING MEMORIES

Sipping Over Centuries Coffee customs in Jordan transcend mere routine: treasured and steeped in history, they serve as a gateway to the country’s past, present and future. Words: ISABELLA SULLIVAN

Inspirations

here’s something mesmerising about the preparation of Jordanian coffee. The ceremonious pouring, the proud yet delicate dallah pot, the fragrant, piping hot steam – and it must be piping – peppered with cardamom dancing through the air. It’s more than the pouring of a drink, but a feeling and a memory, nuanced with hundreds of years of history and tradition, a tool for forging connections. Cherished origins In the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan, coffee is an opportunity to reflect and celebrate life, with each sip and pour imbued with meaning. For Jordanians, coffee – specifically black with cardamom, known

as qahwa sadad – has been a constant, a bridge between the past and present. It’s there at times of celebration, reflection and challenge, representing a sign of respect and moment to pause and consider life. Much can be achieved over a cup of coffee. On your trip to Jordan, these moments will stay with you long after you return home as the ultimate expression of Arabic hospitality. Today, Jordan is a dynamic and modern country with burgeoning industries and glossy new hotels attracting travellers the world over, but it’s deeply rooted in its past. Sharing coffee is at the heart of Jordanian culture, dating back to time immemorial when the brew made its way from Yemen through the trade routes of the Middle East. In the capital Amman, many cool cafes serve Jordanian coffee, alongside Turkish, sans cardamom, a pour perfected by the Bedouins and still loved today. Brewing traditions The perfect Jordanian coffee starts with the beans being ground, boiled and placed onto the fire’s coals in a pot. It’s served neat, sweetened with a side of dates, or infused with fragrant cardamom or sometimes, cloves and cinnamon. This process requires patience, allowing the preparer time to contemplate, before transferring the coffee still piping hot, into a dallah, a small coffee pot found in each Jordanian home. From here, coffee cups known as fenjan deliver the perfect portion: just a few moreish sips. One thing is certain, it is always the compliments of the house, and a Jordanian home or establishment is not complete without its dallah and tray of sweets – even in the desert of Wadi Rum.

the distinct rattle of the mehbash, or grinder, would send out a wordless invitation for discussion. Over the centuries, its meaning has developed, and today, coffee is a symbol of hospitality. A first cup is served to welcome guests, and coffee can solve disputes or dictate the fate of love stories. Before a marriage proposal, the future bride and groom’s family will meet for coffee. If the bride’s family accepts the groom, they will offer a cup of coffee. If no coffee is presented, their love story may sadly be over. Rites and rituals Pouring coffee is as nuanced and meaningful as the sipping itself. When entering a Jordanian home or establishment, the host will use three cups. The first is poured for themselves, indicating the coffee’s quality, the second is for the eldest male, seated right of the host, and the third presented to the next seated in the circle, following on to the right. Three cups are usually drunk – more, and there’s a score to be settled – with a delicate tilt of the cup symbolising your fill. Some hosts even delight guests with the reading of their fortune from the leftover grounds.

Jacada recommends Experience these timehonoured traditions for yourself in the natural surroundings of a Wadi as you visit a Bedouin camp. Learning about Bedouin culture, you will participate in daily activities, including bread and coffee making – the chance to share stories and cement new friendships.

Get in touch to start planning → nataliejohnson@ jacadatravel.com

Common grounds Human interaction and coffee have long gone hand-in-hand in Jordan. Rituals are intertwined with Bedouin culture, when

SIPPING OVER CENTURIES

Life in Colour Mark your calendars to experience Central America at its most vibrant. Words: MIRABEL OKPLA

LIFE IN COLOUR

f you’re looking for adventure, Belize beckons. Few countries offer so much diversity in such a small area as this tiny Central American nation, sandwiched between larger neighbours, Mexico and Guatemala, and shaped as much by Caribbean culture as Mayan history. Belize’s geography alone is astounding. The coastline and lush, jungle-covered interior are true natural playgrounds, strewn with limestone sinkholes and fringed by the Belize Barrier Reef, the second-largest of its kind – not only a unesco World Heritage Site but home some 450 different marine species. At its centre, amid the Lighthouse Reef Atoll, lies the Great Blue Hole, one of the world’s most spectacular underwater marvels, an otherworldly abyss that draws divers into its inky depths. Inland, Belize’s rainforests teem with wildlife, including five native species of wildcats. Playtime comes naturally to big and little kids alike here. Days fly by as you leap into cenotes, kayak through underground caves and soar along tree-top ziplines.

Stay longer, planning your trip around the country’s rich cultural calendar, and you’ll find Belize has more to offer than meets the eye. Despite covering an area barely larger than Massachusetts, Belize is home to twelve distinct ethnic groups, among them Creole, Mestizo, Garifuna, Mennonite and Maya communities. The country plays host to a unique range of traditions and celebrations, boasts local cuisines that marry indigenous ingredients with African, European and Caribbean influences, and is a leader in both regenerative and community-led tourism. A year of festivities There’s no better way to gain a deeper understanding of Belizean culture than by joining the party. The action kicks off in March, when La Ruta Maya Belize River Challenge, one of the longest canoe races in Central America, sees participants set off on a four-day paddle along 175 miles of the twisting and turning Belize Old River – as much a celebration of Belize’s natural resources as a feat of sporting endurance.

Teams from around the globe converge to navigate challenging currents, the air thick with anticipation as onlookers cheer from the banks each time their paddles slice through the water. May marks the end of the dry season and heralds the arrival of the Chocolate Festival. Taking place in the small fishing town of Punta Gorda, located in Belize’s southernmost district of Toledo, the festival celebrates Belize’s long chocolate legacy, which stretches back to the profound role a played for the ancient Maya. Today, local cacao producers take centre stage, showcasing their mastery at crafting truffles, bonbons and bars over the three-day event. In September, as clouds start to bring the promise of rain, Belize undergoes a month-long metamorphosis. Streets burst into life across the country with carnivals taking place from Corozal and Caye Caulker to Belize City in the lead up to independence day on the 21st. Expect a riot of colour and music, with revellers vying to craft the most creative feathered headpieces and sequin-bedazzled costumes.

Left: Goff 's Caye on the edge of the Belize Barrier Reef Right: dancers during carnival season

INSPIRATIONS

The festivities don't wind down as the year comes to a close. November 19th is marked by Garifuna Settlement Day. Descendants of West African, Carib and Arawak people, the Garifuna community are an Afro-indigenous ethnic group with a distinct cultural heritage stretching back to the 1600s. Celebrations take place throughout the entire week and across most of Belize, but especially in Dangriga, where the day itself brings drumming performances, dance, music and the opportunity to sample Garifuna specialities such as conch soup and cassava pudding. From coral reefs to caves A trip to Belize isn’t complete without soaking up the country’s natural beauty and visiting at least one of its ancient sites. It takes approximately four hours by boat from Placencia to reach the Great Blue Hole, some 70 kilometres (44 miles) offshore. A submerged marine sinkhole, it spans 300 metres and plunges to depths of 125 metres. PADI-certified divers can descend into its mysterious underwater caverns. Beneath the surface, intricate cave formations guard a labyrinth of secrets, as reef sharks and exotic fish dart between elkhorn cor-

"Beneath the surface, intricate cave formations guard a labyrinth of secrets, as reef sharks and exotic fish dart between elkhorn corals."

als. Soaring above by helicopter, an all-encompassing and breathtaking view unfolds, a perfect midnight-blue sphere fringed by coral and lapis-hued shallows. Back on the mainland, the Caracol archaeological site stands testament to the wonders of Central America’s ancient Mayan civilisations. Hidden in the Belizean rainforest, this ruined city is the largest Mayan archaeological site in the country. Stelae adorned with intricate carvings tell tales of dynasties, celestial alignments, and the eternal dance between gods and mortals. Exploring the expansive plazas and ball courts, you can sense the pulse of a civilisation that thrived in harmony with the natural world. Elsewhere in Cayo District, other clues to ancient Mayan life come to light. In Barton Creek Cave, reached by canoe, remnants of pottery and jewellery provide evidence of ceremonial activities. As you glide through the cave guided only by a head torch, stalactites hang like delicate chandeliers from the ceiling, emitting an ethereal glow.

Left: a drumming lesson in the Garifuna village of Hopkins Right: snorkelling off South Water Caye

LIFE IN COLOUR

Make it two The best of Guatemala and Belize From the heights of Tikal’s ancient ruins to gentle, white-sand Caribbean beaches, mixing these two beautiful destinations offers a unique combination of natural and ancient wonders. Get inspired here:

INSPIRATIONS

Savoir Faire French culinary know-how, the savoir faire behind one of the world’s greatest cuisines, needs little introduction. If you’re looking to gain a deeper understanding of French culture, there’s no better way than through the country’s food and drink. Words: ELEANOR ALDRIDGE

Right: a typically Burgundian patchwork of vineyards

Inspirations

ating well is more than just a passion in France. The French spend longer at the dinner table than almost any other European nation, leisurely meals regularly lasting from an early-evening aperitif long into the night. Paris, perhaps unsurprisingly, has more than a hundred Michelin-star restaurants. Away from the capital, French food culture remains deeply regional and traditional. Coq au Riesling, a local variant of the traditional chicken stew coq au vin, has been made much in the same way in Alsace for centuries. Wheels of raclette have sizzled by the fire in parts of the Alps far longer than skiers have raced down the mountain slopes. The integrity of some recipes, such as the humble baguette, baked only from flour, water, yeast and salt, are fiercely protected by law. Dusty bottles of wine age in cool, damp cellars. Cheeses slowly mature on ancient stone-built farms set amid rolling coun-

tryside. Garlic is gradually dried by the warmth of the Mediterranean wind as it sweeps inland. Time is the shared secret behind their exceptional flavour. The rhythm of great ingredients No matter where you are in France, seasons dictate the menu. Glossy strawberry tarts herald the arrival of summer; truffles mark the first cooler days in November. Oysters, farmed in the tidal waters off the Atlantic coast, are shucked with abandon from September to January. Only a few specialities are perennial. Bresse chickens, famously praised by King Henri IV, must be raised for at least four months – a life four times longer than many birds that find themselves on supermarket shelves. The cured ham, jambon de Bayonne, is required to be dried in the region for more than seven months to bear the name. Cheese courses to savour Cheeses, of course, are France’s oozing, pungent and crowning glory. There are a dizzying number to try: some 1200 in all. Camembert and Brie are essential to sample, but few show the magical effects of the passing of time like Comté, matured from the milk of the Montbéliard cows that graze the Jura mountains. Try a piece from a wheel aged for just nine months and it’s supple, sweet and fruity. At 30 months, the cheese becomes nutty, dry and crystalline, almost closer to Parmesan. Uncorking the finest vintages With great wine comes great patience. Patience for the buds to burst each spring and the leaves of the vines to unfurl. Patience for the grapes to grow, colour and ripen. Patience for oak barrels to slowly impart their tannin and flavour to a final blend. Once bottled, Burgundy’s elegant reds, made exclusively from Pinot Noir, have among the longest ageing potential. The best can easily lay in the cellar of a tile-roofed chateau on the Côte de Nuits for ten years. Those from the hallowed “DRC”, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, for twenty.

In Champagne, the story goes back further. Chalk caves, hewn by the Romans beneath the modern-day city of Reims, turn out to be the perfect temperature and humidity for ageing Champagne, which must rest on its lees (the sediment that forms after fermentation) for fifteen months, although most houses leave their bottles for three years. It’s these lees that give Champagne its rich, creamy and nutty notes. Spirited away Outside France, you’re most likely to see French liqueurs and spirits in a cocktail. Perhaps Lillet in a vesper martini, Cointreau in a margarita, or absinthe in a sazerac. Dining in France, expect to be offered spirits served neat as a digestif after a meal. None are more loved than Cognac, the golden and aromatic brandy produced in Charente-Maritime. It’s the ultimate expression of France’s time-honoured traditions, each sip some hundred years in the making. The oak trees felled to make the barrels in which Cognac matures grow for around 150 years before finding themselves in the hands of a tonnelier (barrel maker), who will carve them into staves that go on to dry for another 36 months. Once distilled, the cognac itself must age for at least four years to be classified as VSOP, very superior old pale. Cognacs that are denoted XO, extraold, age for at least ten.

Tours and tastings Join us for a private visit and tasting at a family-run biodynamic Champagne estate on the Côte des Blancs, learning about their philosophy for sustainable winemaking. At Cognac Delamain, specialised exclusively in the production of old cognacs, you’re invited to uncover the secrets of the 18th-century stone cellars with the Cellar Master, followed by a tasting. In Provence we go behind the scenes of the hunt for “black gold”, learning how elusive black truffles are cultivated and truffle dogs trained, before a class in truffle cookery. Appetite and interest piqued? Start planning a culinary journey with Kate → kate@jacadatravel.com.

SAVOIR FAIRE

24 Hours in the Serengeti How do 24 hours unfold from a mobile safari camp in Tanzania’s epic Serengeti National Park? Come with us to experience the thrill of the Great Wildebeest Migration, one of Earth's most impressive wildlife spectacles, at the epicentre of the action with Wilderness Usawa Serengeti. Words: EMILY OPIE

Inspirations

icture a safari camp. Sun-bleached wooden poles reach skyward from the dusty earth and khaki canvases form stretched triangular shelters. A peek inside the tents reveals stylish furniture made from the local mringa ringa wood, sustainable ‘greenwood’ bathroom vanities and locally-sourced hand woven textiles, before the massive gauze panels draw your eye to the savannah outside. Now, put this camp in a remote part of Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park, far from the crowds and surrounded by the drama of the Great Wildebeest Migration. Welcome to Wilderness Usawa. The team at Wilderness Usawa track and predict the movements of the migration, relocating the camp to one of its seven locations across the Serengeti to ensure guests land, literally, amid one of the world’s most epic natural spectacles. Serengeti National Park is enormous, dwarfing its neighbour the Maasai Mara. While hundreds of thousands of wildebeest and zebras continuously move between the two parks, it’s the sheer scale of the Serengeti that makes it suitable for mobile safaris. Moving with the herds as their pace quickens or slows, sometimes unpredictably, is the key to immersive wildlife experiences. But, how do you witness the frenetic energy of the so-called ‘circle of life’? How do you even begin to scratch the surface? Join us for 24 hours at Wilderness Usawa to get a sense of how safaris play out hour by hour.

DAY 1 10.45am: Start your journey on a sometimes bumpy, but always scenic light aircraft flight from Arusha, the typical international arrival point, bound for the Serengeti. A small duffle bag, your pilot, a handful of fellow passengers and a sense of adventure are all that accompany you on your journey. 11.00am: Touch down on a dirt landing-strip, a small wooden building and billowing orange windsock are the only indication that an airport exists here. Meet your Wilderness Safaris vehicle and guide, setting off on a game drive into camp. 12.00pm: It feels like the camp appears out of nowhere. Its tranquil luxury should jar against the wild land, yet the structures blend in and sit unassuming in their temporary home. Pull up to camp and meet the team. Smiles, handshakes, refreshing drinks and light snacks are offered, the chats about your journey and the introductions flow easily. As your bags are taken to your tent you’ll take a seat for the camp welcome briefing.a

1.00pm: A fresh and delicious lunch is served, as you sit together in the communal tent. Your guides will now begin to explain what happens next and your plan for the afternoon is formed. When lunch is finished and coffees have been sipped, you’ll be led to your tent, your home for the next few nights, to settle in. 3.00pm: High tea is served. You’ll then prepare your day bag (camera, spare batteries, sunglasses, a warm fleece) and it’s time to hop into the vehicle for your first official game drive, watching out for predators amidst the wildebeests and zebras. 6.00pm: Sundowners are served in the park. At Wilderness Usawa, sundowner spots are specially pre-arranged with rangers, allowing guests to alight from the vehicle and take in their surroundings. The glowing sunset slowly begins to dominate the never-ending skies that are synonymous with the Serengeti and it's time to head back to camp before darkness falls.

24 HOURS IN THE SERENGETI

7.30pm: Weather permitting, a delicious dinner is served under the stars, next to a crackling campfire. There’s no light pollution in these remote areas and on clear nights it's possible to see the spellbinding milky way. 8.30pm: After dinner guests and guides sit round the campfire, reliving their highlights from the day and discussing what lies ahead tomorrow. The expertise and local knowledge of the guides is invaluable as they listen to guests' passions and make plans that are best suited to the current environment. 9.30pm: With a full day of safari experiences starting at dawn, most will choose to retire to their luxury tents. A member of the team will lead you through the campsite looking out for any wild visitors who may have wandered in unannounced. Dim lighting welcomes you as you step inside your tent. We recommend sleeping with the sheer gauze uncovered at least once during your stay, for a night drenched in the sounds of the bush, twinkling stars and pitch black mornings that slowly turn orange and pink as the sun rises. 90

Inspirations

DAY 2 6.00am: The smell of fresh coffee floats into the tent from mugs left just outside as part of your wake up call. Take a few moments to appreciate the morning sounds of the Serengeti before meeting your guides at the main tent for breakfast-snacks. All Wilderness Usawa locations are within the Serengeti’s walking zones, meaning that an all-senses walking safari excursion is possible straight from camp. Set out this morning with your guide and ranger to experience an authentic and peaceful connection to the land. 8.00am: Walk back into camp for a hearty breakfast. Once finished, freshen up with a hot shower, and then meet your guide in camp to get ready for the next activity.

Our favourite camps Serengeti National Park is home to a host of different mobile camps, here are some of our favourites:

9.00am: Today’s game drive will last the rest of the day, so there’s a sense of adventure as picnics, drinks, blankets and snacks are loaded into the vehicles. First stop will be the river to sit under the shade of an acacia tree, quietly watching the murky waters for signs of crocodiles awaiting their prey. The time of year and the location of the camp will determine the different wildlife you can view, such as wildebeest calving season which peaks in February. 12.00pm: A picnic lunch is served. Relax and use binoculars to search the horizon for game. After lunch, set off into the depths of the Serengeti for a complete immersion in this remote, beautiful destination, jampacked with wildebeest, zebras and of course, predators, just the start of what the next 24 hours have in store.

Serengeti Safari Camp The adventurous ethos here began many years ago with a couple of Land Rovers and second-hand safari gear. Now, Serengeti Safari Camp is a classic luxury camp with a roster of exceptional naturalist guides to help you follow the migration. Songa Camp A well-established camp that has two locations. One in the savannahs of Lamai in the north, and the other on the short grass plains of the south – covering the key migration routes. Both locations offer their own signature experiences, including meeting the Datoga tribe while staying in the south.

Olakira Migration Camp Covering two important migration points, Olakira Migration Camp offers the chance to see either adrenaline-filled river crossings in the north or the birth of thousands of wildebeest calves in the south, as well as the lure of predators. The design of the tents facilitates sleeping beneath the stars, with an extended mesh area for experiencing the outdoors while remaining indoors. Roving Bushtops Pure luxury on the savannahs of the Seregenti, roving on wheels between two wildliferich locations. An innovative design sees the tent is packed into a trailer and assembled quickly, complete with a private deck area and luxury outdoor bath.

24 HOURS IN THE SERENGETI

How I Travel Duane, Marcia, Victoria and Alexandra have been travelling with Jacada since 2015. Duane chatted to us about how travel has changed over time for him and his family and how, when it comes to wanderlust, some things simply never change.

You’ve travelled all over the world: can you tell us if who you travel with has changed over the years? We love to travel as a family: myself, my wife Marcia and our daughters Victoria and Alexandra. As time has gone on and our daughters have gotten older with busy schedules of their own, it can be harder to find free time for trips. In the future we envisage taking more couples trips, or trips with friends, while the girls do their own thing. Ultimately though, getting away, all four of us, is our goal. Family travel is important as it’s such a wonderful connecting point. Have your travel priorities evolved over time? I think our priorities have shifted over time. In the past we would have opted for busy itineraries where you get to see and do a lot but now we like to have a little more free time to relax, be together and soak up the area we’re in.

Inspirations

We used to think that we would simply rest on the plane on the way home, but you can come back feeling tired from a trip like that. We do have a bit of fear of missing out though. When we were in Belize we very nearly didn’t go on the excursion to the Actun Tunichil Muknal Cave as there was an early start and the activity itself was challenging, but it was so incredible! It's the duality of not wanting to miss out on the incredible activities, but also using a vacation as a time to recharge. One thing that definitely remains unchanged is prioritising time to connect with local guides on our excursions. Pretty much all of our most incredible experiences have been thanks to the guides. Tell us about some of your most meaningful travel experiences? Being in the Galapagos was truly incredible. On the one hand, lots of people have been there, but when you’re there it feels completely exclusive. Walking down a pathway to see the blue footed boobies that you’ve read so much about, and then finally seeing them, is a very cool experience. In Belize, Jacada found this little bbq place for us to have dinner at and we became friends with the owner. Then, when we went to say goodbye, he gave us food to take for the journey home. It was so kind of him. Such a lovely, meaningful connection to have made with someone from the area. Meeting local people and having those kinds of experiences mean a lot to us. Our guides in Botswana were great too, taking us to remote sundowner spots that were almost otherworldly in terms of beauty – just incredible. You realise that all these places in the world are so beautiful but it's the people you meet along the way that really add meaning to the travel you do. What does travelling with family mean to you? To have the four of us together with no distractions, no one busy doing something else, feels special, and it can be hard to achieve back at home. Even the simple things like getting to spend your meal times together feels like a privilege. Having time to be together while we’re away gives us that dedicated family time we crave. Travelling as a family means we can set down new pathways as a group. All the incredible experiences we get to share connect us as a family, like getting off a boat on the Galapagos Islands and snorkelling for the first time, it bonds you in a way that being in your own country doesn’t. We love the whole experience of travelling from start to finish, including the journey and even the flights. We find it really fun when we’re together. We’ve been reflecting recently and discovered that over the years, we’ve each taken different meanings from some of our travel experiences. It’s interesting because at the time you think you’re all seeing the same thing, so it’s been fascinating to learn about our different perceptions, particularly from the girls when they were younger.

"To have the four of us together with no distractions, no one busy doing something else, feels special, and it can be hard to achieve back at home." HOW I TRAVEL

"Meeting people from different cultures, who educate you on their own stories, makes you realise that on some levels we are all similar in some respects, and those connections drive us to keep travelling as well."

so in-tune with one another because we have travelled together so much. When Marcia and I took an anniversary trip to Italy and France in 2022, the girls would have loved that adventure too. We do have different passions but we enjoy sharing them – even if our personal interests might lie elsewhere. For example, Alexandra loves museums, and Victoria has started to share that passion. Victoria is a little more adventurous, but we all love to get involved there too. When we were in the Galapagos there was the chance to jump off the top of the boat, which we all ended up doing. In Belize, Victoria was keen to go zip lining, so it turned into a ‘I guess we’re zip lining now’ situation and we all loved it. The trickiest part of planning is really just finding time in our schedules.

Is there one thing you always love to include on your trips? We all love to be near the water: somewhere we can swim. When Marcia was growing up, her family enjoyed holidays at a cottage by a lake where they could swim everyday. It was an important and joyous part of her childhood. She passed this core memory onto me when we first met, and we’ve now passed it onto the girls. When planning our recent trip to Zambia we decided to add Mozambique to the end of our safari, which was fantastic. Mozambique has some of the most beautiful beaches I have ever seen and the most stunning sunsets. Our shared love of water is another meaningful bonding experience for us. How does your approach to planning a vacation change depending on who you travel with? There really isn’t much difference in planning for just Marcia and I, versus planning for the four of us. All of our interests are very much aligned. We’re probably 94

Inspirations

What motivates you to keep travelling? I think we get more motivated to travel the more we’re exposed to it. Meeting other travellers who share their own amazing travel stories motivates us to see all the beauty the world has to offer. Meeting people from different cultures, who educate you on their own stories, makes you realise that on some levels we are all similar in some respects, and those connections drive us to keep travelling as well. Is there a place you'd go back to? If so, why? A tough call. We would love to go back to all the places we’ve been to, however there are lots of new places we want to go to as well. If we went back to Galapagos we could combine it with Peru for example; Peru would be new for us. In theory we would go back everywhere, but I think we’ll probably try to discover new destinations. It can depend on the practicalities too, the time of year we can travel, the purpose of the trip. These considerations could possibly see us going back to somewhere we’ve already been. It’s all about balance. Where’s next and who will be coming with you? Hopefully summer 2024 will see all of us travelling together again… the list is quite long. Latin America is definitely on that list; so is Africa.

HOW I TRAVEL

Where to next?

A country of volcanic mountain ranges, shifting golden deserts, cities that span centuries, breathtaking fjords and beautiful waterfalls – Oman is a truly memorable destination. This is one of the oldest human-inhabited places on Earth, offering a fascinating combination of ancient history, incredible landscapes and mesmerising wildlife.

Find out more: Discover Oman for yourself

Time is perhaps the greatest force to shape the world. In this issue, we delve into its mysteries traversing oceans and forests to arts and traditions. The deeper the journey, the richer the reward.