The Explorer - 12: The RENEW Issue

EXPLORER THE

REBUILDING THE RAINFORESTS IN RWANDA THE WILDS OF PATAGONIA CULTURAL REVOLUTION IN COLOMBIA

From Madrid to Barcelona and Santiago to Seville…

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CONTRIBUTORS

MELISSA HAUN

Writer and digital nomad

North Carolina native Melissa has a passion for storytelling and travel. She’s lived all over the world getting under the skin of each new place. Currently Lisbon based, when she’s not writing you’ll find her searching for the best surf spots and food that Portugal has to offer. Melissa explores the rebuilding of Gishwati rainforest on page 16.

Next destination? Indonesia

MELANIE VIEIRA

Latin America expert and concierge Melanie has been working in the travel industry ever since she graduated and wouldn’t change it for the world. Helping people discover their dream destinations is her calling in life. For Melanie travel is about discovering new places, cuisines and cultures and meeting locals whenever possible.

Next destination? The Inca Trail, Peru

Editor Jessie Brechin

Sub-editors

Beverley Lennon

Terri Dunbar-Curran

Design

She Was Only shewasonly.co.uk

Illustrations

Lauren Crow

Other Contributors

Melania Siriu

Berni De Luca

Rachel O’Leary

Jody Van Merode

Rebecca Rothney

Katie Barratt

With thanks to Mark Waller

Wilderness Safaris

Galavanta Colombia

Sea Song Turkey

Luxury Lodges of Australia

Wanderlust Argentina

Aonken Experience

The Fabulous Getaway

Cover Image Forests rising from the mist in Rwanda

Dear Travellers,

Welcome once again to a new issue of The Explorer And ‘new’ is a particularly appropriate word for it, because with this edition we’re celebrating renewal in all its forms.

As travel starts to breathe life into our favourite destinations once more we’ve been taking the time to reflect on how far we’ve all come in the past months and years. From the standstill of 2020 we’re thrilled to say that in 2021 we’ve delivered some incredible trips, totalling more than 23 years’ worth of travel between them.

Perhaps the biggest change for Jacada since our last edition is that we are now a proud part of the Wilderness Safaris family. We’ve been fans for many years, and count their camps among some of our favourites, as you can see on page 64. But what makes this move even more exciting is that Wilderness believes the same thing we do: that travel, and luxury travel in particular, can be a powerful force for good in the world.

Our cover story highlights this philosophy in action. We look at the incredible reforestation and conservation work being done in Rwanda, where the Gishwati Rainforest and National Park is being brought back to life by

the wonderful efforts of Wilderness Safaris, its partner organisations and the local communities.

On the other side of the world we travel to Colombia, where recent developments have hit refresh on the nation’s international image, rightly centring it as a destination full of joy and colour.

For this edition we’ve also enjoyed chatting to some inspiring individuals from different sides of the travel spectrum:

Rebecca Rothney, founder of Pack for a Purpose, shows us how we can all make a real, tangible difference when we travel and Mark Waller, a long-time Jacada client and friend, shares his insights on what makes travel so important to his family.

Patagonia, Sri Lanka, Japan and Australia are on our minds too, with a side of Turkish cuisine and South African wine to wash it all down.

Finally, we’ve been continually inspired by you; our travellers. The conversations we have with you spark our imaginations on a daily basis, connecting us to that deep desire we all share: to learn more about our world. We hope these pages will do the same for you.

Warm regards,

The Explorer is published by Jacada Travel

Travel enquiries enquiries@jacadatravel.com

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BEVERLEY LENNON

Writer

Word-tinkerer and ramen-enthusiast, struggling to pronounce anything correctly through a bizarre mix of collected accents, Beverley was born and raised in Mauritius. She got bitten by the travel bug when she moved to live in South East Asia and is currently based in The Netherlands, she is mastering the art of biking like the Dutch. Next destination? Greece

TERRI DUNBAR-CURRAN

Writer

After a decade as a newspaper journalist, Cape Town-based writer Terri left the newsroom behind for the boundless adventure of the travel industry. She loves getting lost in new places, and collecting interesting characters and stories. When she’s not able to venture too far from home, she spends her time fattening her family up with dishes inspired by the places she hopes to visit one day. Next destination? Russia

Alex Malcolm Founder

Online jacadatravel.com

When you have finished with this magazine please recycle it.

CONTENTS

Boarding Call Features

Inspirations

10 The List

Our favourite products made from repurposed and sustainable materials

12

24

Positive Impact Travel

Rebecca Rothney, founder of Pack for a Purpose, shares the story behind the organisation making a difference around the world

Gishwati, Rising

An ambitious reforestation project in Rwanda

38

16 08

66 Turkish Delights

A whistle-stop tour of some of the country’s best dishes

70

To the Vines

South Africa’s own wine fairy, Katie Barratt shares her love for the grapes

74 How I Travel

We sit down with a long-time Jacada client to chat all things travel

Patagonia in Pictures

Exploring the vast landscapes of the wilds of Chile and Argentina

Uplifting an Island

Terri Dunbar-Curran discovers how Sri Lanka is using tourism to support marginalised populations and endangered species

56

Briefing

The latest news from the world of luxury travel

Reborn in Colour

Beverley Lennon dives into the wonderful world of Colombia

Australia is Back

How the country is reconnecting with its indigenous heritage and rebuilding the reefs

image.”

38 Colombia

64

Luxury Made Local

An up close look at the refurbishments of DumaTau in Botswana and Little Kulala in Namibia

“Together they moved mountains to change people’s perceptions and shed the city’s former

BRIEFING

Openings and news in the luxury travel world.

GAL Á PAGOS BY SUPERYACHT

Cruising the Galápagos islands, Aqua Expeditions’ Aqua Mare will be the epitome of luxury for the guests in its seven spacious suites. The custom interiors of the 50-metre yacht were individually designed by Francios Zuretti. The Owner’s Suite is set to be the largest room on the archipelago, incorporating a 20-square-metre bathroom and an exclusive butler service.

GIVING BACK TO LOCAL COMMUNITIES

IN BRIEF

South Africa celebrated an excellent wine harvest this year with nearly 9% more than in 2020. A slow ripening season means that the 2021 vintage is shaping up to have some fantastic bottles, particularly for its Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blancs.

The Palace of Versailles opened its first hotel. Airelle’s Le Grand Controle features 14 decadent rooms and suites right in the grounds of the iconic Palace.

UNESCO added another 34 properties to its heritage list between 2020 and 2021, including the beautiful Paseo del Prado area in Madrid. A must-see for artloving globetrotters.

2022 marks the 100th anniversary of the death of Antarctic explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton.

MACA OPENS IN PUNTA DEL ESTE

SIX SENSES FORT BARWARA IS HERE

Leading Uruguayan contemporary artist Pablo Atchugarry will open the nation’s first contemporary art museum in January. In addition to some of the artist’s own works, such as his first marble sculpture from 1979, expect an impressive collection ranging for up and coming national voices to renowned international names including Wifredo Lam, Vik Muniz, Louise Nevelson, Frank Stella, and Joaquín Torres-García.

Global restrictions on travel have hit some areas particularly hard. Communities and local economies depend on tourism for their regular sources of income and without visitors action was needed. Since April 2020, Wilderness Safaris has distributed over 17,000 food parcels to 35 communities in six different countries, impacting more than 88,000 people.

TRAIN TRAVEL BY WES ANDERSON

The decadent British Pullman train has had a makeover. Wes Anderson has collaborated with Belmond to redesign one of the carriages on this classic train. True to his signature style the decor features angular lines and unexpected quirks, with a pink and green palette. Swan details throughout nod to the carriage’s name: Cygnus. Travellers can reserve a table or one of the two private coupés, with exclusive use of the whole carriage available on request.

The lovingly restored 14th-century fort was once owned by the Rajasthani Royal Family and is now the latest addition to the Six Senses portfolio. Sitting opposite the Chauth ka Barwara Mandir temple, the imposing structure incorporates two temples and features 48 suites as well as a spa and fitness centre contained in the original women’s palace.

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The List

Our favourite products made from repurposed and sustainable materials.

2.

Palladium Recycled Collection

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4. Stow Leather Tech Case From $511 stowlondon.co.uk

6.

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Patagonia Black Hole Duffel Collection

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Positive Impact Travel

Pack for a Purpose partners with accommodations and tour companies to help travellers use a small space in their luggage to have a big impact on community projects around the world.

Interview with: Rebecca Rothney, founder of Pack for a Purpose

How did Pack for a Purpose come about?

On one of our very first trips to Africa, we travelled to Botswana with Wilderness Safaris and had the opportunity to visit a local school. As a teacher myself back then, I asked if we could contribute supplies.

My friends pitched in and by the time we left for Botswana, we had collected over 140 pounds of supplies. Once in Johannesburg, the Wilderness Safaris team collected the donations and arranged to have them delivered to Botswana. On the day of our visit to the school, I was delighted to see how helpful the supplies we brought actually were.

We did the same on our next trip to Kenya. This time we brought supplies for a clinic, which requested a stethoscope. With the help of a few friends, we packed not one, but two stethoscopes, four blood pressure cuffs and other requested medical supplies. I recall telling my husband ‘we have to do this every time we travel’. And that’s how Pack for a Purpose was born.

Could you tell us about the destinations and organisations you support?

We have over 60 destinations and over 400 projects supported by our participants around the world and

our list of destinations and projects is continuously expanding. The projects we support include child welfare projects, schools, animal welfare projects and socioeconomic projects. Several of these projects focus on people with disabilities and care of the elderly.

When we first started we had to look for organisations by ourselves, but now they’re the ones knocking on our doors. For the onboarding process, we have a set of requirements that organisations must fulfill and we look into each project as much as we can to ensure it has a positive impact.

How can travellers get involved?

Travellers pick the destination they’re heading to on our website to see the list of accommodations and tour companies located in that country. Once they’ve selected the place they’re staying at, they will see a list of supplies requested by the partner organisation there. And now they’re packing for a purpose!

On our website, you can also find packing tips such as ‘how to deflate a soccer ball’, as well as advice on what not to bring. For example, we highly discourage bringing in latex balloons due to their negative impact on local wildlife. We also request that travellers not bring candy as there is very little dental care in many of our destinations and bringing requested supplies is much more useful for the community projects.

Once at the destination, guests drop their donations with our participants and the staff make sure they get to the right place. In some instances, travellers can even visit the school or centre to make the donation physically, but this will be be decided at the local level once the traveller arrives.

Can people get involved even if they're not travelling to a partner camp?

Most definitely. In fact, several of those who Pack for a Purpose do not necessarily travel to a partner accommodation. Often, generous travellers make the effort to take supplies to participants on our website, going the extra kilo to make that happen! We encourage those not staying with the participant on our website to get in touch with us to make the process as easy, beneficial and enjoyable as possible for all the people involved. We’re unable to accept supplies from people who are not travelling to the destinations, but to help us continue our mission, we are most grateful for donations to our project.

Visit packforapurpose.org or ask our team about Pack for a Purpose partners in your destination.

Left & Right Students from the Sol y Luna school in Peru, one of the many projects supported by travellers who pack for a purpose

Below Rebecca with cases destined to help projects in Zambia.

Gishwati, Rising

Two decades ago, Gishwati Forest was on the brink of total destruction. But today it’s poised for a comeback, thanks to a collective effort to restore its forests and protect its native wildlife.

Words: Melissa Haun

Images: Wilderness Safaris

When most people think of Rwanda, Gishwati Forest may not be the first thing that comes to mind. But although it’s lesser known than some of the country’s other attractions, this vibrant region certainly has a story to tell.

Until very recently, that story was one of hardship. For the first part of the 20th century, Gishwati Forest covered several thousand hectares of land on the Congo-Nile Divide along the Albertine Rift. But from the 1950s onward, its area steadily – and at times sharply – decreased, due to various kinds of human activity.

This destruction threatened the rainforest ecosystem and the species that call it home, gravely endangering local populations of chimpanzees, monkeys and many other animals and plants. In the last several years, however, people have started taking action to stop it.

Today, organisations like Wilderness Safaris, in conjunction with the Forest of Hope Association and the Rwanda Development Board, are working to restore Gishwati Forest. Their goal is to protect its incredible biodiversity, transforming it into an example of what can happen when we stand up in defence of natural resources.

If all goes to plan, Gishwati will soon join the ranks of other Rwandan success stories – such as Bisate Lodge in Volcanoes National Park – which have managed to use sustainable tourism and community engagement to help rebuild habitats and protect endangered species.

In just a few short years, this breathtaking landscape of lush hills and valleys will be not only a haven for wildlife, but an inspiring symbol of hope in the face of hardship.

A legacy of destruction

The modern history of Gishwati Forest began in 1930, when it was officially established as a natural reserve. During the first half of the 20th century, it comprised around 250,000 acres. But by 1960, it had already lost more than half of that land to deforestation. And in the 1980s, large swaths of the forest were cleared for cattle ranching, crops and logging.

Things got even worse in the 1990s, as civil strife in Rwanda caused hundreds of thousands of people to relocate to the region. Even more land was cleared for subsistence farming, settlement and mining, and by the early 2000s, Gishwati only had about 1,500 acres of native forest left.

All of this deforestation created a myriad of problems, from soil erosion and degradation to flooding

Left. Golden Monkeys saw their habitat drastically reduced through decades of deforestation

and landslides – and it also had a devastating effect on biodiversity. Some local species were driven to the brink of extinction; in 2008, there were only 13 Eastern chimpanzees left in Gishwati. Other endangered species like the golden monkey, the blue monkey and many others were also threatened as their habitats were destroyed. With nearly everything that made this place special at risk, the situation seemed irreversible. But things were about to take a turn for the better.

Research and rebuilding

In the mid 2000s, a few organisations decided to take a stand to save Gishwati Forest. In 2007, the Gishwati Area Conservation Program was established. Five years later, the Forest of Hope Association (fha) took its place and over the past decade, conservationists and government officials have started working together to restore the majesty of Gishwati and protect it from further destruction.

In 2019, Gishwati Forest officially became part of Gishwati-Mukura National Park: the fourth national park established in Rwanda and a unesco biosphere reserve. That same year, Wilderness Safaris signed a 25-year concession agreement with the Rwanda Development Board. Together, they started developing an ambitious conservation and tourism management programme focused on chimpanzee monitoring, community engagement, education and reforestation.

Right The forest rises up above local plantationsconem. Sequam

Wilderness also partnered with the fha to create an indigenous tree nursery, which has already greatly contributed to reforestation efforts.

With an eye towards the future, Wilderness Safaris is working on bringing sustainable tourism to Gishwati. They’re creating an exclusive chimpanzee and primate trekking experience that will allow visitors to see some of the forest’s most fascinating species up close, bringing people from across the globe to Gishwati to experience its stunning beauty firsthand.

One tree at a time

The support of local communities is vital to the success of any conservation project. Luckily for Gishwati, local residents have already demonstrated their commitment to rebuilding and protecting the one-of-a-kind environment where they live.

In November 2020, fha helped to organise an umuganda: a monthly Rwandan tradition in which community members combine efforts to achieve a common goal. In this case, the objective was to plant tree saplings to help with the reforestation process. More than 80 local residents joined in, managing to plant 770 trees in just one day.

According to fha coordinator Thierry Aimable Inzirayineza, the organisation’s strength is ‘the relationships that we have built with our local community partners over the years, and our collective mindset in the importance of the protection and conservation of Gishwati that will ultimately benefit the people too.’

Mr Inzirayineza makes a crucial point: in order for a long-term restoration project like this to work, it must

take into account not only environmental issues, but also social and economic concerns. This kind of holistic approach aims to benefit local residents as well as the ecosystem itself – and this will be key to its ongoing success.

In the future, local community members will likely be joined by visitors from around the world, as Gishwati gains prominence as an ecotourism destination. These travellers will also need to be involved in the restoration process, whether by making responsible choices in general or even helping to plant trees. In fact, this is already possible in other parts of Rwanda, where similar conservation projects have reached later stages.

Following in Bisate’s footsteps

Less than 100 kilometres north of Gishwati Forest, there’s another inspiring story to be told. Bisate Lodge is perched on the edge of a crater beside Volcanoes National Park, one of Rwanda’s most famous attractions. Around five years ago, Wilderness Safaris started working with other organisations to restore this unique ecosystem, which was also at risk of destruction.

Today, they’re finally reaping the fruits of that labor. The team at Bisate Lodge – with the help of many guests and local community members – have planted more than 55,000 trees so far. These efforts have helped to

Left. The involvement of local communities makes caring for these habitats possible

Right Bisate Lodge, where guests can relax and immerse themselves in the forest

reverse deforestation and rebuild the habitat of the endangered mountain gorillas that call the area home.

In June of this year, one of these stunning creatures was spotted on the Bisate property for the first time. This gorilla sighting is a testament to the success of ongoing efforts to protect the park, and a remarkable reward for all the hard work that’s been invested. Today there are around 1,000 mountain gorillas living in the wild. Although they’re still endangered, they’re the only species of great ape whose population is actually increasing – thanks in large part to projects like Bisate. This project has many parallels with the work going on at Gishwati. Both are grounded in local communities and aim to use sustainable tourism as a mechanism for positive change. The ecosystems and species at stake may be different, but the principles are the same. And the encouraging success at Bisate gives us a glimpse into what the future of Gishwati could look like.

A bright future

There’s no question that Gishwati Forest is on the path to renewal. In just a few short years, it may be possible to reverse the damage that’s been inflicted on this area for decades, and to breathe new life into an awe-inspiring ecosystem that was previously on the edge of collapse.

We have an extraordinary chance to ensure that the chimpanzees, monkeys, birds and other animals that live here have a secure habitat for years to come, helping these species to survive and thrive. The acres of land that were once blanketed in green foliage can return to their former glory, and with every tree planted, we get one step closer to that reality.

It’s important to note, however, that none of this is guaranteed. The success of Bisate Lodge, for example, did not come about on its own. It required years of dedication and commitment from community members, conservation experts and visitors. Many more years of hard work will be needed – but we’re certainly on the right track.

In Gishwati the restoration project is off to a promising start, and the organisations involved are ready to meet the challenge of maintaining and expanding these efforts as time goes by. Continuing to prioritise the environment and all of the diverse life it contains, while finding ways to simultaneously empower local communities is crucial – not only in Gishwati, but throughout all of Rwanda, Africa and the rest of the world.

Tourism can be a powerful tool to achieve this, as long as it’s ethical and sustainable. Wilderness Safaris is committed to promoting this type of travel, which benefits the environment, visitors and locals alike. As Rob Baas, Wilderness Safaris Rwanda MD, puts it, ‘There is now the possibility to use sensitive tourism to unlock the value of Gishwati Forest; to use revenue generated to enhance its protection and restoration, and to benefit the local rural people surrounding the forest. This is the first step towards a very bright future.’

Gorillas in Rwanda

It is believed that there are only around 1000 mountain gorillas in the wild. These gorillas live in only two places: Bwindi Impenetrable Rainforest in Uganda, and the Virunga Massif, a chain of volcanoes stretching 174 miles across Rwanda, Uganda, and the Democratic Republic of Congo.

Volcanoes National Park is one of the most accessible places to spot them and is where Dian Fossey, the inspiration behind ‘Gorillas in the Mist’ conducted her groundbreaking research.

There are twelve habituated groups of mountain gorillas in the National Park. This means that these groups are accustomed to the relatively close proximity of humans and can be safely encountered on a gorilla trek.

Trekking to find the gorillas can take anything from one to five hours, so it’s important to be physically prepared.

Learn more in our Definitive Guide to Gorilla Trekking and start planning your Rwandan adventure. enquiries@jacdatravel.com

PATAGONIA

Spanning Southern Chile and Argentina, Patagonia is a land of vast expanses and epic scenery, with huge distances to be covered. But within that it’s the sheer diversity of the region that captures people’s hearts.

‘Every time I go to Patagonia I feel free’, says Jacada Concierge Berni, chatting to me as she sips mate from her apartment in Buenos Aires.

Being based in Argentina is certainly an advantage when it comes to accessing the region, but it’s been two years since Berni was able to head way down south and she’s itching to go again.

We caught up over some of Berni’s favourite images that capture the magic of the incredible region.

The far-stretching wildernesses of Patagonia are home to some of the best views in the world. Trek through the epic landscapes and discover a whole new outlook

Words: Jessie Brechin

Left & below. Rugged landscapes make horseback the transport of choice for local shepherds in Torres del Paine National Park, Chile

With so much territory to explore, private guides like those at Awasi Patagonia are invaluable

Above. The surreal spikes of the glacier on Lago Grey, as captured by Sernatur

Right Guanaco pose indifferently in front of the iconic peaks

Below Magellanic penguins, named after the European explorer who first spotted them in the early 16th century. Now their colonies can be seen (and heard) all around the peninsula

Right. The iconic Perito Moreno glacier in Argentina’s Glaciares National Park towers 240ft above the lake below. ‘Trekking on the surface of the glacier and hearing the ice move under your feet is one of the most amazing things I’ve done in my life.’ Periodically huge towers break away from the glacier and collapse thunderously into the icy water

Below The lighthouses at Cape Horn keep watch over the treacherous waters of the Drake Passage

Right. The wildlife that calls Patagonia home can be just as impressive as the scenery

Fitz Roy looms over the long road to El Chaltén

After experiencing the majesty of some of the world’s most incredible wildernesses, returning to bright city lights can be surreal. Like emerging from a theatre in the middle of the day it takes a moment to readjust.

For many, it’s a feeling that they’ll keep chasing: Patagonia has a hold on those that get to know it. Nothing could make this clearer than the message I get from Berni two days after our chat: ‘You’ve inspired me,’ she says, ‘I’m going to El Chaltén next month.’

Discover Patagonia → jen@jacadatravel.com

Berni’s Patagonia address book

Explora El Chaltén

I’m very excited about this addition to the Explora portfolio. El Chaltén is one of my favourite destinations for hiking and enjoying the drama of the Andes. This hotel offers the perfect base to come home to

Australis Expedition Cruises Australis run fantastic expedition cruises from Punta Arenas, through the Strait of Magellan and around Cape Horn to Ushuaia. Navigation techniques (and onboard facilities) may have evolved since the first Europeans traversed this route in the early 16th century, but it’s not difficult to imagine the awe those explorers felt

Awasi Patagonia

All of the Awasi hotels are incredible in their own right but the Patagonia base is probably my favourite. Set in stunning Torres del Paine National Park, each ‘room’ is in fact a private cabin which comes complete with your own dedicated driver and guide for the duration of your stay

Buenos Aires: Two Ways

Buenos Aires is the perfect place to bookend your Patagonian adventure. But with so many things to offer it’s hard to know where to begin. Luckily we have a couple of locals on the Jacada team who were more than willing to share their tips.

What’s the best meal you’ve had in Buenos Aires, and where can we get it? Milanesas at El Preferido de Palermo. This restaurant is similar to the "bodegones", which are classic Argentine places to eat, but it’s a bit more sophisticated. Their Milanesas - generally a breaded beef or chicken cutlet - are some of the best I’ve ever eaten!

Best-kept Buenos Aires secret? The botanical gardens. Even though they are located in one of the busiest areas of the city they’re very quiet. The place doesn't look like much from the outside, but once you get inside and start following the many little paths it's a whole different story.

BERNI

Where is home for you? Home is where the heart is, and my heart is right here in Buenos Aires. I live in Recoleta, a very nice neighborhood not far from the city downtown.

What is your favourite Buenos Aires delicacy? Empanadas, a kind of pastry that is very traditional in Argentina. The filling may consist of meat, cheese, tomato, corn, or other ingredients. A meat empanada is my favourite.

What do you love most about living in Buenos Aires? Buenos Aires has it all: amazing architecture, great museums and a huge variety of cultural events, as well as some of the best food in the world and great wine. You always have something to do and this city never sleeps.

What are the qualities of the typical Buenos Aires local? Porteños' energy is quite spectacular. We’re not the kind of people to stay indoors over a weekend to rest up and relax. We unwind by going out to exercise at one of the city’s many green areas; to watch a football game; or to eat at a nice restaurant with a lovely view, good food and wine.

What’s your favourite thing to do in Buenos Aires on a weekend? I am a foodie and a wine-lover - I enjoy discovering new places and usually look for little bars or local restaurants to go to with my friends.

Have you discovered anything new about Buenos Aires recently? I started using my bike a lot since public transport was very limited during the pandemic and I realised there are a lot of cycle paths I wasn’t aware of. Even though it’s a huge city you can get anywhere cycling.

If you had friends visiting Buenos Aires for one day, where would you take them? If it's their first time here, the city downtown is a must. I would probably take them there early in the morning, and we would go to a traditional bar in San Telmo so they can have a traditional breakfast (medialunas and café cortado, or 'cortadito' as we say here), while we watch couples dancing tango in the street.

Then I would show them the less traditional side of the city and probably my favourite part: Palermo. There are many local designers in this area and I would take them to some ateliers. We would have lunch at a nice restaurant with a glass of Malbec, and try as many local dishes as possible.

We would finish the day at the theatre, watching a musical, a comedy or stand up. Corrientes Street is filled with theatres, but I would probably take them to a more local, less busy one.

MELANIE

Where is home for you? I live in the suburban area of Buenos Aires city.

What is your favourite Buenos Aires delicacy? Butter medialunas! When you visit the city make sure you try some for breakfast. They are quite similar to French croissants. There are actually two versions of medialunas: the larger one is made with butter, and the smaller is made with lard. I usually have them with mate, but they go great with coffee too!

What do you love most about living in Buenos Aires? There is no better place in the world to enjoy an asado: our local barbeque. We meet up with friends and family and everyone is involved in the process: making the fire, preparing the salads, setting the table or just being there to refill the wine glasses for the chefs - with Argentinean Malbec of course!

What are the qualities of the typical Buenos Aires local? We are storytellers by nature. If you want to know more about our culture, geography, traditions or just want to chat, you need to find a local! We’ll happily share a mate or a drink with someone we’ve only just met and chat like we have known each other for a lifetime.

What’s your favourite thing to do in Buenos Aires on a weekend? I’d say a bike visit to the Costanera Sur Ecologic Reserve. The reserve is the biggest and most biodiverse green area in the city. Despite its proximity to the centre, with the high-rises of Puerto Madero in plain sight, it's a real oasis of calm. If you’re a bird watcher and wild-life lover, this is the place for you!

Have you discovered anything new about Buenos Aires recently? Bocabajo, Bocarriba is a speakeasy bar located in the Retiro Neighborhood. If you walk in a little distracted, you might think that you’ve walked through a dry cleaner, but the washing machines near the window are all part of the experience. Downstairs, there is an underground cellar which is the promised land for wine lovers!

What’s the best meal you’ve had in Buenos Aires, and where can we get it? Parrilla Don Julio offers the best steaks in town. Make sure you try the bife de cuadril (rump steak) and entraña (skirt steak). For a starter, I always go for the fried beef empanadas and the crispy mollejas (sweetbreads), which are lightly seasoned with lemon juice and salt.

Best-kept Buenos Aires secret? El Ateneo bookstore is a magnificent old theatre that has been converted into a stunning bookstore. As if browsing through books under the ornate ceilings of the El Ateneo Grand Splendid weren’t special enough, you can also take a stack of books into one of the box seats or onto the stage itself, which is now a café with tables and couches where you can relax and read.

If you had friends visiting Buenos Aires for one day, where would you take them? We’d go to the Centro Cultural Recoleta, near to the Recoleta Cemetery. It hosts all sorts of exhibitions, sculptures, as well as concerts and artistic presentations and workshops. Then we would visit the Centro Cultural Kirchner in the former Buenos Aires Central Post Office. The nine-floor building has a concert hall, rooms for poetry readings, auditoriums for theatre and other performance arts, art and history galleries and two rooftop terraces. Finally, we would take a private tango lesson! I love dancing and I think there’s no better way to get involved with the local culture than music.

"Porteños' energy is quite spectacular. We’re not the kind of people to stay indoors over a weekend to rest up and relax."

Reborn in colour

Colombia. A photogenic gem full of incredible culture, delectable cuisine, unmatched biodiversity and charming architecture. But not so long ago, this country was making international headlines for very different reasons. Following decades of conflict and violence, a new era of peace has created the chance for a fresh start – and they’re certainly taking it. Colombia has been reborn.

For many in Colombia and around the world, Medellín used to be synonymous with danger. In fact, Time magazine granted it the dubious honour of being named ‘the world’s most dangerous city’ in 1988. More recently, Medellín has captured the international imagination through dramatisations of the life of Pablo Escobar, whose infamous cartel was once based in this city.

But visit Medellín today and you’ll find a very different story. Now commonly referred to as ‘the Silicon Valley of South America’, Medellín has a booming economy and is well on its way to becoming one of the world’s most innovative cities, with plans to cut its carbon emissions by 20%, expand its bike lanes by 50% and make all public transport electric by 2030.

This reinvention did not happen overnight. It required bold efforts from the Colombian government and, crucially, the determination and passion of local communities. Together they moved mountains to change people’s perceptions and shed the city’s former image.

One part of Medellín that’s seen especially drastic changes is Comuna 13. In the world’s most dangerous city, this area was known as the most dangerous barrio of all. But over the past few decades, Comuna 13 has experienced a cultural revolution. Local artists have turned the neighbourhood into a vibrant place, filled with street art depicting scenes of peace and positive change.

This barrio is now one of Medellín’s most famous attractions, with proud locals leading walking tours of the transformed streets. Strolling through the brightly coloured alleys, the guides share stories of Medellín past and present, often passing live street art performances or even running into the local artists who are behind the surrounding masterpieces.

In August, Medellín’s streets are further transformed for the Feria de Las Flores, a week-long extravaganza featuring festive flower parades set to the sounds of Colombian music.

Left The vibrant displays during Feria de Las Flores

Right. The colourful barrios of Medellín are now home to unique street art

Colourful Cartagena

Colombia is now known globally for its innovative restaurants, luxury accomodation and world-leading ecotourism attractions. But arguably the most important novelty is the fact that its streets are now safe to wander.

In the Old Town of Cartagena, those streets are some of the most spectacular in the world. This unesco World Heritage Site is known for its colourful façades and beautifully preserved colonial architecture. Flower-laden balconies overhang atmospheric cobbled alleys, brimming with locals and visitors alike. The Old Town is also home to one of Anthony Bourdain’s favourite local spots: La Cevicheria, a laid-back eatery known for its fresh seafood.

Cartagena is located in northern Colombia, an area that has seen its share of strife. For decades, travel between regions was limited. One unexpectedly positive result of these restrictions was that many local traditions managed to survive, untouched by outside influences.

The diversity of these local customs and cuisines is the driving force behind Cartagena’s Celele, which has been named one of Latin America's 50 Best Restaurants. Stepping over the threshold here feels like being welcomed into someone’s home.

In the kitchen, Jaime Rodríguez and Sebastián Pinzón give local cuisine a unique makeover. They com-

bine popular dishes, indigenous cooking techniques and little-known local ingredients in a creative take on all things Colombian and Caribbean. Each course is accompanied by music from the same place as the dish being served, and the menu is complemented by an impressive wine list.

The way forward

Colombia has immense potential when it comes to sustainable tourism. It’s home to more bird species than any other country on earth, many of which inhabit the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. At one point in time, drug traffickers, paramilitaries and guerrillas made it impossible for outsiders to explore this area, but it’s now accessible to intrepid travellers.

This megadiverse country also features expansive areas of protected lands and oceans, making it a hotspot for biodiversity. Fortunately, many city officials recognise the importance of eco-friendly practices and support them accordingly.

Pack your bags for Colombia

→ lily@jacadatravel.com

Astounding Experiences

A helicopter tour over the Ciudad Perdida

The Lost City, or Ciudad Perdida, is Colombia’s answer to Machu Picchu, and is believed to have been once inhabited by the Tairona people. The remains of this once-forgotten city are hidden deep in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta National Park.

After being closed to the public for many years, the Lost City is accessible again.

Reaching it by foot involves a multi-day hike featuring steep climbs and river crossings. Alternatively, a scenic aerial adventure can bring you up close to this intriguing archaeological site within minutes. On a helicopter tour, you’ll fly over Colombia’s most stunning landscapes, hover above the ruins and take in views that are too immense to fully appreciate from the ground.

An unforgettable dining experience at Elcielo

It’s no wonder that you sometimes need to book months in advance to secure seats at Elcielo Restaurant. With locations in both Bogotá and Medellín, it offers an exclusive journey of multi-sensory gastronomy. Diners are taken on an exhilarating ride for all the senses, in which every bite is both surprising and exquisite.

The multi-course tasting menus, which consist of ‘moments’ rather than just ‘dishes’,

feature mainly Colombian-inspired creations that combine fresh local ingredients with traditional and avant-garde cooking techniques. These moments are artfully constructed by none other than chef Juan Manuel Barrientos, a Medellín native who was recognised as the youngest chef on Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list three consecutive times.

Colombia on Film

Narcos and other films and shows like it have brought Colombia’s drug wars to a global audience. But there is so much more to the vibrant nation. Here are some of our favourite pieces that show a different side to Colombia.

Colombia: Wild Magic (Colombia: magia salvaje)

This award winning documentary showcases the phenomenal biodiversity that makes this country an incredible destination for nature lovers.

The Wind Journeys (Viajes de viento)

A quirky story about a cursed accordion, this film beautifully presents the charming towns and vistas of Northern Colombia. At times fantastical, the film draws from myths and legends as the characters complete their epic journey.

Love in the Time of Cholera

The film adaptation of the Gabriel García Marquez classic received mixed reviews when it was released, but one thing is certain: it captures the atmospheric beauty of early 20th century Colombia perfectly.

Uplifting an Island

The Pearl of the Indian Ocean is using travel to support crucial social and conservation projects in one of the world’s most beautiful countries.

Words: Terri Dunbar-Curran

Endless hills blanketed in lush green tea plantations, wisps of mist curling through valleys, idyllic beaches and ornate temples attracting thousands of worshippers and travellers alike… There’s no doubt that Sri Lanka will take your breath away.

Any visitor will tell you that two of the things that make this country so special are its welcoming people and stunning natural beauty. As tourism gains steam, a growing number of organisations are leveraging the power it brings in order to preserve and uplift the elements that make Sri Lanka unique.

Planting hope

When you think of Sri Lanka, images of rolling hills and verdant tea plantations may be some of the first you conjure up. But behind these picturesque scenes, there’s important work to be done. Many of the approximately 500,000 plantation workers in Sri Lanka come from families that have lived and laboured here for generations, working long days for little pay.

A legacy of immigration and marginalisation means that the living conditions for these workers have historically been very poor, and lack of access to schooling has made it difficult for them to break the cycle.

The Tea Leaf Trust works directly within these communities, helping to uplift young people by improving their access to education and employment. Supported by tourism partners, the Trust gives the younger generation

Previous page. Stilt fishermen wait patiently for their daily catch. The unique poles have become an iconic image of Sri Lanka

Right and below The rolling green hills of tea country are a beautiful backdrop to what is often the harsh reality of plantation life

Left. The Sri Lankan leopard is a small subspecies of leopard. It’s currently on the ‘vulnerable’ list, with fewer than 1000 left in the wild

Right Bare tree trunks in the vast wetlands of the Yala National Park

fresh opportunities, opening doors to new careers – and helping to create brighter futures for their families in the process.

One of the main ways they’re helping to effect lasting change is by improving the employability of young people, through training to improve their English language skills and professionalism in business interactions. There’s also a strong focus on mental health, which includes teaching them about resilience and providing positive coping strategies.

For many participants, the benefits of this training extend beyond employment prospects. It also helps to improve their self-worth and imparts a new sense of enthusiasm for life, which works wonders for social transformation across the broader community.

Land of the leopards

Spending time with the locals of Sri Lanka makes it clear how connected they are to the land and the astounding beauty that surrounds them. The country’s people and nature are inextricably linked, and as the Sri Lankan economy has begun to benefit from tourism, efforts are being made to ensure that the same is true for its environment.

There are many organisations and projects focused on sustainability and conservation here, each doing their part to ensure that future generations will also be able to appreciate and benefit from the country’s natural beauty.

The Sri Lankan leopard is one of the largest subspecies of leopards in the world, and is now the only large mammalian predator in the country. This species has

been officially protected since 1964, but the current population is estimated at only 750–1,000 adults. However, the changes brought about by the COVID-19 pandemic have actually had some positive outcomes for the Sri Lankan leopard and other endangered species. As the pace of modern life slowed over the past two years, nature was given some space to breathe. The resulting lack of human encroachment allowed many animal and plant species to recover. It also provided the perfect opportunity for proper conservation strategies to be implemented.

Using Tourism for Good

Two of the properties that Jacada works closely with –Resplendent Ceylon’s Wild Coast Tented Lodge in Yala National Park and Ceylon Tea Trails in tea country –have set up the Leopard Research Centre to support this work. The primary objective of this non-profit is to provide funding, facilities and logistical support for researchers and research projects focusing on Sri Lankan leopards, with a particular emphasis on longterm studies.

One major goal of this partnership is to ensure that the people who live in and around these areas understand the value and importance of the forests and the animals that inhabit them. Targeted education programmes and conservation measures have led to the removal of illegal snares and a reduction in the damage done to the forests. Additionally, wild corridors between habitats are being maintained to ensure that the leopards can move freely and avoid confrontations with humans. And because Sri Lankan leopards can be found across most of the country, any work done to conserve and protect them invariably ends up benefitting other wildlife and habitats as well.

The early signs are encouraging; camera trap footage has revealed a very healthy population of leopards living in the forested areas between Ceylon Tea Trails’ Dunkeld and Norwood bungalows. With the continued work of the Leopard Research Centre the hope is that these incredible creatures will go from strength to strength, and as anyone who has been lucky enough to see one up close will attest, that is a cause well worth fighting for.

Visit the tea plantations and support leopard conservation on your trip to Sri Lanka. rachel@jacadatravel.com

Reading List

A selection of our favourite books that bring this island country to life.

The Teardrop Island, Cherry Briggs

The author follows in the footsteps of an eccentric Victorian explorer, through hidden trails, tea estates and rural gems across the island.

Running in the Family, Michael Ondaatje

An unusual book from the author of The English Patient, this memoir follows stories in the author’s own family across centuries of Sri Lankan history.

Trouble in Nuala, Harriet Steel

In 1930s Ceylon an Inspector and his English wife move to hill country, where a suspicious death needs to be solved. Full of colourful characters and the right amount of mystery.

The Girl Who Stole an Elephant, Nizrana Farook

An entertaining children’s adventure set in a Sri Lanka of the past. Chaya leads her friends (and an elephant) on an extraordinary jungle adventure.

After a challenging couple of years, Australia is gearing up to welcome travellers again. And as it prepares to do so, the country is rediscovering itself and striving to protect the wealth of its cultural and natural heritage for generations to come.

Australia is back

Rainforest: restored

Valued for its incomparable biodiversity, Daintree National Park is the world’s oldest rainforest. It was designated as a unesco World Heritage Site in 1988, which marked a victory for the protection of its ecosystem. But consideration of the Eastern Kuku Yalanji, who had called the rainforest home for thousands of years, was noticeably lacking from the registration.

In the decades since, huge strides have been made to properly recognise and respect the rights of the Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples. Among the crucial work being done is the return of key ancestral lands to their traditional owners. Notable landmarks that have been returned so far include the iconic Uluru and Kakadu.

In September of this year, the Queensland government took similar steps to redress historic wrongs in Daintree by officially handing the land back to its Indigenous owners.

This decision has been welcomed by Jacada favourite Silky Oaks Lodge, which reopened this month after a significant refurbishment. This Baillie Lodges gem borders the Daintree, making it the perfect base for exploring the national park. Silky Oaks has supported the decision to return the land to its traditional custodians, and is committed to sharing the area’s heritage with guests. To that end, it’s partnering with Indigenous-run businesses such as Walkabout Adventures to offer a variety of activities led by local guides.

Visitors can connect with the cultural history of the rainforest through guided walks, such as the Ngadiku Dreamtime Walks at Mossman Gorge, during which stories and legends are shared. Other tours offer insight into the foods and medicines of the Kuku Yalanji people. These experiences add an invaluable extra dimension to each visit, while helping to support and preserve these ancient cultures.

Left Silky Oaks Lodge makes for the perfect relaxing base to explore the National Park

Below Guided walks like those with Walkabout Adventures teach guests about the forest and its significance

From rainforest to reef

Not too far north of Daintree National Park lies Lizard Island: a place on its own quest for rebirth, where crucial steps are being taken to safeguard the future of the Great Barrier Reef.

The northernmost resort on the reef, Lizard Island is a unique destination that places profound importance on preserving its marine life. There’s a lot more to this Luxury Lodge of Australia than its breathtaking beauty and unrivalled proximity to one of the world’s greatest natural wonders.

Owned and operated by the Australian Museum, the Lizard Island Marine Research Station attracts coral reef researchers from all over the world. Facilities include laboratories with equipment for processing samples before they're transported to the mainland or overseas. There’s also a flexible seawater aquarium system, where controlled experiments with living reef organisms are conducted. The station is open to visitors interested in learning about the work done there, and a variety of citizen science activities are set to be launched next year.

With these projects and many others like them going on across the nation, it’s clear that Australia is entering a new phase. As the country emerges from an incredibly difficult era, people and businesses alike are seizing the opportunity to recognise the value that their history has – and that their future could hold.

Pack your bags for Australia → rachel@jacadatravel.com

More of our favourite luxury lodges of Australia

Longitude 131

Another highlight of the Baillie Lodges portfolio, Longitude 131 is a ‘luxury desert basecamp’ in the heart of the outback. All of its tents offer outstanding views of Uluru and the exclusive Dune Pavillion also takes in World Heritage listed Kata Tjuta.

Across the country in Western Australia, Sal Salis sits at the edge of the outback overlooking the stunning Ningaloo Reef. Each of the safari style tents is perfectly positioned to see the sun rise and set over the waves.

Stay tuned for… Southern Ocean Lodge

A former Jacada favourite, this Kangaroo Island lodge was sadly destroyed by wildfires in January 2020. Now the rebuild is underway and the new lodge is slated to open in early 2023.

Sal Salis

Luxury made local

Wilderness Safaris knows how to create incredible camps. With every update and opening they lead the way in low-impact luxury, blending impeccable style and comfort with the very best local design, resources and produce. Here we take a look at two of those camps, in two very different settings.

DumaTau and Little DumaTau, Botswana

When Wilderness set out to rebuild DumaTau and add the brand new Little DumaTau, we knew it was going to be flawless. Together with Luxury Frontiers and Artichoke Interiors and in association with local South African artist Gina Waldman, the Wilderness Safaris team transformed the existing DumaTau into an oasis of renewed luxury.

Reflecting the lagoon

Sitting right in the middle of Botswana’s elephant-filled Linyanti Reserve, DumaTau and Little DumaTau blend in with their surroundings and the idyllic Linyanti River frontage.

Inside, the colour palette reflects the natural tones of the outdoors and design elements subtly nod to the wonderful setting. The team drew inspiration directly from their backyard: even the pops of colour inside were influenced by the water lilies that grace the lagoon. These delicate flowers have long been associated with the idea of ‘rebirth’, a connotation that fits perfectly with not just the rebuild, but also the effect a stay here has on each guest.

The hand-dyed cushions scattered around the camps feature details cut from old game-drive vehicle tyres.

Sustainable sources

Living up to their title as pioneers of conservation, DumaTau and Little DumaTau follow Wilderness Safaris’ long-standing ban on concrete in its camps. The camps are 100% solar-powered with water-efficient showerheads, tap aerators and cisterns enabling guests to leave an impressively small environmental footprint without compromising on luxury.

The explorer tented style has been retained but on the inside every inch and detail of the decor has now been ethically sourced from local artisans in Botswana. The wooden decking was repurposed from the old DumaTau and even the materials used to transport items to the new camp have been transformed into something new.

‘Curiosity boxes’ resembling an explorer’s research are hung in each room to pay tribute to the population of elephants and wild dogs in The Linyanti Reserve.

The local connections continue throughout the camp experience. The menus celebrate seasonal produce

and offer plant-based options. You’re invited to dine alfresco and come and meet the chef as they prepare food using traditional methods. The dining room and tents have also been reoriented to offer more expansive views out over the water, bringing the wildlife spotting experience right to your table.

Little Kulala, Namibia

Pointing the compass to Namibia, we take a look at the freshly restored Little Kulala. This desert retreat is no mirage, set within the dramatic landscape of the Sossusvlei area, overlooking oceans of sand and giving you access to the 27,000-hectare Kulala Wilderness Reserve.

Recently unveiled, Little Kulala’s bold innovations include 100% solar-powered tents, decor made of natural materials such as wood, new walkways allowing small insects to move freely across their land. The water supply throughout the lodge is purified using a filter, allowing you to drink directly from the tap, in line with the camp’s commitment to eliminate plastics.

The lodge is also encouraging guests to consume local, farm-to-table produce. By introducing indigenous ingredients in their kitchen, they are able to help local farmers in the region and contribute to the local community. Guests can also browse pieces by local talents in the on-site shop.

What the doctor ordered

Little Kulala’s fantastic spa uses local ingredients like the Namib melon and African potato skin as part of their signature treatments.

There is also a new emphasis on guests taking more time to maintain their health. Each of the 11 airy guest suites is equipped with a private plunge pool and rooftop, making them the perfect place to relax. Or if you have energy to spare, take advantage of the available exercise equipment for a workout with a view.

Opposite DumaTau’s deck reaches out into the lagoon, giving guests the perfect vantage point

Below Little Kulala blends into the sand against the bright sky

← “Discover more of our favourite Wilderness Safaris camps”

Turkish delights

A melting pot of flavours and spices, Turkish cuisine is certainly something to write home about. Tuck into a few of our favourite dishes and whet your appetite for this colourful destination.

Mezze

Technically more a style of eating than a dish itself, mezze has been the cornerstone of Turkish cuisine since time immemorial. Hummus, fava, aubergine dishes, calamari, meatballs and feta cheese all combine to create a wonderful array of appetisers. Mezze are found everywhere from locals’ homes to high-end restaurants and, given that it tastes so good, it’s not hard to see why.

Kebabs

Perhaps Turkey’s most famous export, kebabs come in all shapes and sizes. You may have heard of the ubiquitous döner but the shish, iskender and adana varieties are all definitely worth a try too.

Iskender kebabs are named after culinary visionary Iskender Efendi, who invented the special grill which allows meat to be grilled vertically. They’re traditionally slices of döner kebab served on pita alongside melted butter, creamy yogurt, and a tangy tomato sauce.

Adana kebab is named after one of Turkey’s most famous ‘kebab cities’ and among the spiciest of Turkish kebabs. Usually served with a hearty portion of bulgur and vegetable pilaf, this is one of the most wholesome Turkish dishes out there.

Manti

Manti is Turkey’s own version of Italian ravioli, and you’ll find it served differently across the country. Despite its variations, there is one thing all of its forms have in common – they all taste incredible.

Most often, it’s served as small parcels of dough filled with a delicious mixture of minced lamb and onions. There’s also a vegetarian version, stuffed with aubergine, for those who prefer meat-free dining. The whole affair is finished off with a trio of mouthwatering sauces – caramelised

tomato, brown butter and garlic yoghurt. It’s a wonderful, distinctly Turkish, combination of flavours.

Baklava

Turkish desserts are something special and baklava is one of the most ubiquitous. A rich and sweet pastry, baklava consists of layers of flaky filo pastry stuffed with a mouthwatering pistachio filling. Held together with a sugary syrup of honey, this traditional delight is a real indulgent treat. Although the origins of baklava are still somewhat mysterious, it’s thought that this dish first appeared in the imperial kitchens of Istanbul’s Topkapi Palace.

Kunefe

For those who can’t decide between sweet and savoury, kunefe is essentially baklava with a cheese filling. This gourmet delicacy is made with kadayif, a traditional shredded

wheat dessert finished with a classic pistachio filling. Served fresh from the oven, the cheese inside will melt in your mouth. Finished off with a large helping of clarified butter and a sprinkle of pistachios, this indulgent dessert is worth leaving your diet at the door for.

Turkish coffee

Turkish people have been enjoying this caffeine-laden tipple since the sixteenth century. It’s thought that the Ottoman Governor of Yemen Özdemir Paşa introduced coffee beans to Turkey in 1517. Nowadays, coffee houses line the streets of Turkey’s major cities and city-dwellers carve time out of their busy days to meet loved ones for a coffee. Beyond its excellent taste, the most intriguing thing about Turkish coffee is reading your coffee grounds once you’ve emptied your mug. Locals have been doing this for centuries and, according to many Turks, there’s no better way to predict your future.

Melania recommends:

A gulet escape

Straddling two continents, with unique culture and an endlessly fascinating history, Turkey is the perfect destination for the culturally minded… and with delicious food and welcoming locals too, you’ll never want to leave.

One of the best ways to appreciate the beauty of the Turkish coast is to charter a luxury gulet and spend a few days exploring the towns and sites that dot the seafront.

Gulets are beautiful traditional handcrafted boats that cut through the turquoise water with ease, taking you to destinations often inaccessible by road. Head south from Bodrum and explore the ancient ruins at Knidos or wander the streets of Datca. Mix in some kayaking or snorkelling or even add a little Greek to your vacation with a visit to the surrounding islands like Symi.

Onboard the gulet your private staff and chef will take care of everything, with delicious Turkish cuisine served to you breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Begin your Turkish adventure → melania@jacadatravel.com

“The most intriguing thing about Turkish coffee is reading your coffee grounds once you’ve emptied your mug.”

To the vines

Gorgeous estates, rolling vineyards and beautiful gabled manor houses, the Winelands are one of the most picturesque regions in South Africa. But where to start? We asked an expert: the Cape’s own ‘Wine Fairy’, Katie Barratt.

Tell us about what you do. All things wine. I host fabulous tours around the Cape and throughout the winelands of South Africa whether it be one day, multiple days or just an evening out to showcase the abundance of beauty, splendour, culture and diversity around us. I travel abroad hosting my global wine and culinary adventures, and I drink wine, yet all in the name of research.

How did you get into wine?

I was a student at Hotel School when I went on a wine tour from Johannesburg to the Cape. It was a hot day in April and we were at a stunning farm in Stellenbosch waiting under the oak trees to be introduced to the winemaker. Glass in my hand, I sipped the golden nectar as the cellar door swung open and we turned to see this gorgeous man standing there. I swear there were lights and music too. I went weak at the knees and was just completely overwhelmed. This is love, I thought.

Education has taught me that it was actually the CO2 being released during fermentation combined with the heat of the sun that made me dizzy... but that feeling has lived with me my entire life and is the passion that drives my love and continued journey of wine. I’ll not allow science to take that moment away from me.

What is it that makes the Winelands so special?

The obvious answer here is wine, yet for me it's the people. It's the stories beyond the glass, the secrets of the cellar, the history, the terroir, the food, the magnificent views. Vines only grow in spectacular places, yet it takes people to nurture and respect the process through sustainability and passion.

What does your ultimate day in the Winelands include?

It would typically include visiting up to three wineries, exploring a cellar, meeting a winemaker, savouring a light lunch along the way and just immersing myself into everything wine. Add in a helicopter ride, a chef’s table-style multi-course food and wine pairing dinner and a gorgeous hotel for the night and now we’re really styling.

How do you approach touring with guests who know very little about wine but want to learn?

Wine is for everyone and I love introducing people to it. I start at the very beginning. I take them through my three-step tasting protocol, then all about the lifecycle of the vine, the basics of winemaking and cellar technique influences all with wine glass in hand. It’s so rewarding for me to see how people react, light up and suddenly understand the ‘why’ and ‘how’ behind it all.

Visit the Winelands with Jacada → jody@jacadatravel.com

How to enjoy wine at home

Explore a variety you like. If you know you enjoy a French Suavignon Blanc,why not try a version from another part of the world like Chile or South Africa? You might just find a new favourite.

Keep notes. You don’t have to be a card carrying oenophile to know what you like. When you try a new bottle at home, make a note of your opinion – you’ll know what ones to look out for in future.

Do a virtual tasting and share the fun.

Senior Africa Travel Designer Jody is a former Winelands local and to stay connected while far from the vineyards she loves to do tastings through her local wine shop. ‘Not all of my friends have been lucky enough to go to South Africa so it’s a fantastic way to share my passion’.

“It’s the stories beyond the glass, the secrets of the cellar, the history, the terroir, the food, the magnificent views.”

Below Idyllic views are a staple of any Winelands experience

Right. Katie among the barrels

A tale of two seasons

Depending on the time of year, Japan can look very different. Which season will you choose?

Cherry Blossom

There’s more to Japan’s Sakura season than just the splendour of its cherry blossoms. As spring makes its grand entrance, locals trade their heavy coats for lighter clothing. This period also marks the beginning of the ‘hanami’, a century-old flower viewing tradition.

Between March and April, blooms begin to open and cities like Kyoto, Okinawa and Hokkaido are covered in a sea of pink. Find locals and tourists alike gathering underneath the trees to picnic, drink sake, barbeque, and celebrate this time of renewal among friends and family. Travel to Lake Kawaguchiko for scene-stealing views of the mighty Mount Fuji surrounded by blossom.

Autumn Leaves

Summer can be sweltering in Japan, so when September is finally over and the stunning colours of fiery red and gold take over the trees there’s a sense of new beginnings in the air.

Autumn follows the Obon holidays, when the souls of ancestors return to this world for a few days. As the days get crisper, locals enjoy long walks to soak up the beauty of the colours, a tradition known as momijigari – leaf hunting – that dates back 1,200 years.

Head to Arashiyama Bamboo Forest to see it carpeted in crimson-coloured leaves. Sample the seasonal, locally produced delicacies on streets filled with food carts. Don’t miss the mouth-watering grilled squid, takoyaki (octopus balls) and okonomiyaki (a savoury Japanese pancake). But as temperatures start to drop, you’ll find nothing quite like a steaming bowl of flavourful ramen.

Pack your bags for a Japanese adventure with Jacada.

→ jacadatravel.com/japan or rachel@jacadatravel.com

HowI travel

You recently came to Jacada to plan multiple trips at once. Why did you take that approach?

What does travel mean to you?

I grew up travelling, it’s a real passion of mine. It’s in my DNA. I credit my parents with my total love for the safari experience and what it represents, but more broadly with my ‘the world is your oyster’ mentality.

My wife and I met overseas and so as a family we’ve always associated travel with great things. It’s an amazing way to bond, creating a variety of unique experiences that you can share and then reminisce about later.

I think it’s a great way to see the world, on your own terms with the people you love.

What do you prioritise when you travel and how has it evolved over time?

We start by thinking about the experiences we’re looking for, which could be anything from the specific ‘I really want to dive with dolphins’ to something much broader like wanting to visit a desert or see a glacier. What flows from that tends to be the geography and from there the logistics of time of year, convenience and availability for us. Particularly when you’re juggling kids and they’re in jobs and relationships as well you have multiple dimensions that you’re trying to balance out.

Our approach has naturally evolved over time as we collectively have become more involved in the planning. Through experience you also become very much more attuned to what you all like and don’t like and know more about what’s important to each of you. You become much more choiceful - which ends in you making better choices and getting more out of the commitment you make.

As a family we are in a period of life where we’re blessed with good health and the benefit of time and resources. My wife and I are at the moment right now where you can take advantage of those circumstances and do the things that you might not be able to count on doing five to ten years from now. There’s also a definite covid impact of ‘wow life is too short’, so you’d better make sure that you really get to have the experiences you want to have and you go to where you want to with the people that you love. The third part of it is that if you do it really well, you’ll probably uncover a lot of places that you’d like to go back to later. For example, our trip to Australia and French Polynesia: I can bet that this won’t be our only trip to that part of the world but we’ll get a sense of which bits are truly awesome.

Where is somewhere that’s really captured you like that in the past?

I was born in Kenya so it’s a wonderful memory for me and it’s great to share that with my family. I think that Africa is just a unique place to visit, I don’t think I know anyone who’s been and hasn’t come back transformed in some way by the experience of it.

Long-time Jacada client and McLaren executive Mark Waller chatted to us about his approach to travel, how it brings his family together and why he believes it’s one of the greatest things you can give another person.

“Travel is a great way to see the world on your own terms, with the people you love.”

Are there any other trips you’ve taken that really stand out to you?

I truly don’t think we’ve ever been to a bad place. Peru and the Galápagos was really memorable. The excursions: Machu Picchu; the hiking for our kids; the wonder of the Galápagos; being able to dive and enjoy the ecosystem there… An extraordinary family trip. That’s definitely somewhere we’d all go back in a heartbeat.

Argentina was also incredible. And again that had something for everyone.

When you travel with family, a lot of effort goes into planning to make sure there’s something for everyone and also that there’s time built in for people to do their own thing. People have different needs and so you want it to be fulfilling for everyone individually as well as collectively.

One of our most memorable days was on safari when a horse riding excursion was available. The kids went on that and my wife and I went on a walking safari instead. Unbeknownst to us the excursions ended up in the same place and we had an extraordinary family breakfast in the middle of the savannah: completely stunning and unexpected. We had all got to do what we wanted to and still shared the experience.

Similarly in Peru the kids hiked Huayna Picchu and then we met up for a beer... Some of the family dive and others don’t… you always want to make sure that the options available meet the needs of everyone

as much as possible, so it doesn’t become ‘Dad’s vacation’ and everyone else is just along for the ride.

Is there anything that you think ties together the places you’ve loved the most?

The common theme is the extraordinary majesty of nature, and the beauty of what the world has to offer.

In terms of experiences, the Machu Picchu experience of being in a place like that and understanding how it came to be and how absurdly ridiculous it is that human beings could build that. For my wife the wonder of the Great Wall of China was similar. That people that long ago had the ability to create these extraordinary structures is incredible.

Swimming with seals in the Galápagos was another highlight. It was incredible how natural they were and how unintimidated by humans. Going on walking safaris too, being that vulnerable and exposed and yet comfortable. When we see nature as it’s meant to be we realise just how wonderful it is.

And finally, what is the best thing about travelling as a family?

Part of what we’ve wanted to do with our own family is to give our children that breadth of perspectives and broadening of horizons and experiences that you can only get from travel.

Travel is an amazing gift and it’s one that we give to each other. It’s not just one directional – when we plan trips it’s not a question of just ‘can the kids make it’ but of the kids genuinely wanting to give that time back to us. That’s a pretty cool thing.

How will you travel with Jacada?

Start your adventure. → enquiries@jacadatravel.com

“Peru and the Galápagos was an extraordinary family trip. We’d all go back in a heartbeat.”

A safari like no other

Travel way down south to the frozen continent for an awe-inspiring adventure.

Aurora Expeditions are celebrating their 30th Anniversary this year, and with it a legacy of industry-leading service. Now certified carbon neutral, the expeditions offer lots of ways to explore, from zodiac trips to polar kayaking and even camping on the ice itself.

Discover the epic scenery and unique wildlife in one of the last true wildernesses.

→ enquiries@jacadatravel.com

Share the magic

A private boat trip down through the canals of Venice? It's on us.

Personal recommendations mean a lot to us. When you introduce a friend or family member to us we’ll always take great care of them. We’ll even sprinkle a little something extra on their trip to welcome them to Jacada.

And as a thank you for spreading the joy, we’ll do the same for you when you next travel.

Who will you share the magic with?

Email referrals@jacadatravel.com or get in touch with the team directly.

Where will you venture next?

We’ve made it even easier to get inspired for your next trip.

Tell us a little about what you’d like to see and do on your adventures and we’ll suggest destinations and trips from all over the world.

And remember: all of our trips are as unique as our travellers: once you've found your inspiration our team is here to help you make it yours.

jacadatravel.com/trip-inspiration