Jane Dungate DUN14416680 Concept Development Report 4081 words
CONTENTS 1. Executive Summary 1 2. Concept 3 3. Brand 5 3.1. Brand Ethos & Values 5 3.2. Name & Logo Development 7 3.3. SWOT 9 3.4. Summary 11 4. Consumer 13 4.1. Survey Findings 13 4.2. Focus Group Findings 15 4.3. Profile 17 4.4. Brand Ambassador 19 4.5. Secondary Consumer 21 4.6. Future Consumer 23 5. Competitors 25 5.1. Key Competitors 25 5.2. Aspirational Competitors 33 5.3. Case Study 1 – Boux Avenue 41 5.4. Case Study 2 – Marks & Spencer 43 5.5. Case Study 3 – Victoria’s Secret 45 6. Market Overview 47 6.1. Market Positioning 49 6.2. Market Potential 51 6.3. Macro Environment 53 6.4. Micro Environment 55 7. Supply Chain 57 7.1. Sourcing 57 7.2. Critical Path 59 7.3. Sourcing Considerations 59 7.4. Manufacturing 59 7.5. Sustainable Production 59 8. Retail Plan 61 8.1. Packaging and Labels 61 8.2. Distribution and Stockists 63 8.3. Website 63 8.5. Social Media 65
9. Brand Marketing 67 9.1. PR Events 67 9.2. Promotions 67 9.3. Body Positivity Campaigns 67 9.4. Rewards Scheme 69 9.5. E-mail Newsletter 69 10. Business Strategy 71 10.1. Core Model 71 10.2. UK Expansion 71 10.3. International Expansion 71 11. Collection Overview 73 11.1. Inspiration 73 11.2. Trend Board 75 11.3. Colour Board 77 11.4. Fabric Board 79 11.5. Evaluation 81 11.6. Price Architecture 81 11.7. Initial Designs 83 12. Conclusion 87 13. Appendices 89 13.1. Survey 89 13.2. Focus Group 95 13.3. Guardian Article: UK plastic surgery statistics: breasts up, stomachs in 98 13.4. BAAPS Article: Tweak not tuck 102 13.5. BAAPS Article: SUPER CUTS ‘Daddy Makeover’ and Celeb Confessions: Cosmetic Surgery Procedures Soar in Britain 106 14. Bibliography 110 15. Image Bibliography 115
Beautiful • Timeless • Feminine
1. EXECUTIVE SUMMARY This report reviews and analyses the lingerie market in the UK, specifically looking at the smaller bust market, with the aim of developing a brand for this market.
The findings from this research gave a view of what the market currently looks like and how it has behaved in the past; this has been used to make a prediction about how the market may change and where there may be any gaps in the market.
Primary research for the report was gathered using methods such as: interviews (by way of email) and questionnaires. This research helped to form a After analysing it, I have used the research to develop a consumer profile, give a greater understanding of brand and design a collection of lingerie that is relevant to consumer behaviour and what the consumer wants. the target consumer and addresses a gap in the market. Secondary research was gathered from books, web pages and market reports. This is where mostly objective research comes from, including important facts and figures.
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“I’m sorry I don’t conform to your standards of feminine perfection, but I’m quite happy the way I am—anyway, I wasn’t born to be buxom..” (Armstrong, 1992)
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2. CONCEPT In the UK, over the last 100 years, women’s busts have increased from a B cup to a DD cup, with the national average UK bra size now a 36DD (Rainey, 2015). Due to this increase in bust size, many lingerie retailers are increasing their offering for the larger bra market; however, as Elisabeth Dale points out in her article Small Bust Lingerie Market (2014) “Another group of lingerie consumers still feels neglected. And these smaller busted women (who might be considered the C- crowd) feel they have few choices when it comes to intimate apparel.”
Large breasts, whether natural or implants, can cause pain and back problems; this was illustrated in an episode of Celebrity Botched Up Bodies (2016) when ex-children’s TV presenter and ex-glamour model, Gail Porter, sought advice and underwent surgery to reduce her 28JJ breasts to 28C.
Even though there are women who are smaller busted, there do not seem to be many retailers who cater this market. Currently, small busted women have to purchase ill-fitting bras in larger band sizes or buy from the children’s department – not something they Also, since 2008 the number of breast reduction tend to enjoy. Jane Elizabeth is a brand that aims to surgeries has increased by 54.74% from 3,522 (Rogers, deliver beautiful lingerie to this under-valued customer. 2010) to 5,450 in 2015 (Lancaster-Smith, 2016).
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“Mass advertising can help build brands, but authenticity is what makes them last. If people believe they share values with a company, they will stay loyal to the brand.� (Yang & Schulz, 1999)
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3. BRAND “1.2 A particular identity or image regarded as an asset.” (Oxford Dictionary, 2016)
3.1. BRAND ETHOS & VALUES Jane Elizabeth is intended to be a high street lingerie brand that focuses on bringing beautiful, sexy and classic lingerie to all women with small band sizes (26-34). It will carry lines with cup sizes AA-D and DD-G in a selection of ranges. The brand is ageless and will offer lingerie to women of all ages with an everyday basics range, fashion ranges and Limited Edition ranges that will be available around Christmas and Valentine’s Day making the perfect gift.. Jane Elizabeth is a brand that will use its lingerie, and specialised campaigns, to target issues surrounding body positivity and femininity. By creating lingerie for the small bust market it challenges the idea that a woman must have large, round breasts “Beautifully set breasts emphasize the harmony of the female body” (The breasts - the ultimate symbol of femininity, no date).
In 2015 breast augmentation was the most popular cosmetic surgery for women with 9,652 procedures carried out (Lancaster-Smith, 2016). Women are feeling uncomfortable with the size of their breasts and want them bigger. Websites out there such as http://www.howtomakeyourboobsgrowbigger. com/ and ebooks like Boost Your Bust by Jenny Bolton also tell women it is possible to try and increase their bust size naturally and without turning to surgery. Jane Elizabeth wants to create lingerie that makes women feel sexy, no matter what bra size they are.
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Fig 1. Logo Development (Dungate, 2016)
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3.2. NAME & LOGO DEVELOPMENT
“In the fashion industry it is particulary important to get your name and logo right, as they are such an integral part of creating your overall brand image� (Meadows, 2012)
The concept and values of the brand are very personal to me; because of this the brand is named Jane Elizabeth. By using a name that is considered classic and ageless, all women should be able to identify with the brand. The chosen logo is shown below.
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“In the midst of chaos, there is also opportunity� (Tzu and Cleary, 2005)
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3.3. SWOT The SWOT analysis below shows the Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities and Threats that I consider are particularly relevant to the brand. By acknowledging and building on its strengths and opportunities addressing the weaknesses and threats, it can best develop and evolve positively.
STRENGTHS: • Focused on one niche area of the market – market research should be easier to collect and there won’t be as many variables within it • Strong values that appeal to the target consumer – customers should feel close to the brand • Strong aesthetic that appeals to all ages – a woman can spend all of her adult life buying lingerie from the brand • Ignored market – big brands may continue to ignore it
WEAKNESSES: • Doesn’t offer larger band sizes – keeps target market relatively small • High Street brand – many other brands in this market • Name doesn’t specifically reference lingerie – consumers may not be aware of what products the brand sells based on name alone
OPPORTUNITIES: • Few shops offering small bust lingerie – not as much competition, could become market leader • Body Positivity Campaigns – can work closely with these to promote a cause close to the brand • Social media and the internet – can promote the brand, relatively inexpensively, on a number of platforms and so spread the word nationally, and possibly internationally, creating scope for global expansion in the future • Sister brand, , offering young adult lingerie – creates a larger customer base
THREATS: • Competition – market competitors may start to sell a small bust range, possibly encouraged by the success of the brand • Brand loyalty seems to be decreasing – consumers like to buy from many different brands, it is difficult to hang on to returning customers. • Economic pressures – Brexit and market uncertainty could mean that brand could face an uncertain future
Fig 1. SWOT Analysis of Jane Elizabeth
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“Branding is not just about being seen as better than the competition. It’s about being seen as the only solution to your audience’s problem.” (Morgan, 2011)
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3.4. SUMMARY “Your image is your brand and you have only one opportunity to make that first impression. Choose to make a positive first impression.” (Peterson, 2011) Jane Elizabeth aims to create a strong and sophisticated brand that fits well within the High Street market of lingerie brands. By targeting a gap in the market, it allows for Jane Elizabeth to become a market leader in this category due to the lack of competition. The brand’s values include increasing body positivity within the small bust market, something which hasn’t been focused on by a major brand before. Hopefully, this will lead to increased brand loyalty. Jane Elizabeth will start by creating a range for AW 17/18.
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Fig 1. “Where Do You Buy Your Underwear From?” Consumer Survey (Dungate, 2016)
Fig 2. “What Makes You Buy From a Certain Brand?” Consumer Survey (Dungate, 2016)
Fig 3. “Do You Sign Up to Brand Loyalty Schemes?” Consumer Survey (Dungate, 2016)
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4. CONSUMER “1 A person who purchases goods and services for personal use.” (Oxford Dictionary, 2016)
“With the blurring of age and gender, marketers are putting more and more emphasis on understanding the personal values of their consumers.” (Chiarelli, 2008)
4.1. SURVEY FINDINGS I carried out a survey which was posted online to collate information about where consumers shop for their lingerie, why they buy from certain brands and whether they could find their size in store. Marks & Spencer came out as the most popular brand for lingerie with 17 respondents buying from them, with ASOS and Debenhams coming joint second with 5 respondents (Dungate, 2016).
The most common reason for buying from a brand was price (11) followed closely by aesthetics (10). Brand loyalty was also a common reason (8) and fit was also important (5) (Dungate, 2016). Consumers more often than not signed up for brand loyalty schemes (17) (Dungate, 2016).
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“A focus group study is a carefully planned series of discussions designed to obtain perceptions on a defined area of interest in a permissive, nonthreatening environment.� (Krueger and Casey, 2014)
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4.2. FOCUS GROUP FINDINGS
I carried out a focus group exercise over Facebook with target customers. This also gave insightful information into how the target customer behaves, gets her information and their values. On the subject of social media, Instagram was the main platform mentioned. “It’s mostly the few bloggers I follow, some celebrities, stylists and some random inspirational accounts.” (Benedicte-Sture, 2016) Consumers are using Instagram to get inspiration for what to wear and how to wear it. Celebrity brand ambassadors have to be chosen carefully because if they have values that aren’t in sync with the brand and target customer they can be ineffective or actually damage the brand by discouraging people from buying from it “I think if I really didn’t agree with them out
of stubbornness I may not buy it” (Beet, 2016). Brand transparency is also important to the consumer when it comes to ethical issues “I think not using sweat shops is important but I feel like a lot of brands do and lie about it” (Huthwaite, 2016) When the consumer is buying from a brand, they want to know what the brand’s values are and that they agree with them. Design and price were the two most influential factors as to whether to buy from a brand or not “Price and design are very important. If I like a design but it’s too expensive I won’t buy it” (Huthwaite, 2016).
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Fig 2. Woman on a boat at sea
Fig 1. Youthful woman
Fig 3. Organised desk
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Fig 4. Professional woman street style
4.3. PROFILE The target consumer for Jane Elizabeth is ageless, however she has a young and playful mind and outlook on life. She is someone who likes to feel good about her body and appreciates the finer things in life.
Beautiful • Timeless • Feminine
Fig 5. Woman doing yoga on the beach
Fig 6. Dinner and drinks with friends
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4.4. BRAND AMBASSADOR Jane Elizabeth has chosen Lily James as a brand ambassador. Lily James is an actress that women from 1660 can identify with; her involvement as a main character in the widely watched ITV series Downton Abbey made her accessible to everyone.
In August 2016, she became the face of Burberry’s fragrance, My Burberry, replacing Kate Moss and Cara Delevingne (Lily succeeds Kate and Cara at Burberry, 2016) Lily James has a bra size of 32B.
FILMOGRAPHY War & Peace Prideand Prejudice and Zombies Downton Abbey Burnt Cinderella Fast Girls Broken Wrath of the Titans Secret Diary of a Call Girl Fig 1. Lily James Filmography
Fig 3. Lily James for Burberry (2016)
< Fig 2. Lily James for Glamour Magazine (2015)
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Fig 2. Office
Fig 1. Professional man
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Fig 3. Lingerie as a gift
4.5. SECONDARY CONSUMER Jane Elizabethâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s secondary consumer is a partner of the primary consumer. This consumer buys the products as gifts for their other half and will therefore be more likely to buy those from the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Limited Edition ranges.
Fig 4. Healthy man
Fig 5. Romantic date
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Fig 1. Playful girl
Fig 2. Girls having a sleepover
Fig 3. Teenage girlâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bedroom
Fig 4. Study supplies
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4.6. FUTURE CONSUMER Jane Elizabethâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s future consumer is the younger market with the scope to address that market with create a range called Miss Jane Elizabeth targeted at teen girls.
Fig 5. Teenage fashion
Fig 6. Teenage girl
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â&#x20AC;&#x153;Competition is always a good thing. It forces us to do our best. A monopoly renders people complacent and satisfied with mediocrity.â&#x20AC;? (Pearcey, no date)
Fig 1. Tabitha Lingerie Set (Boux Avenue)
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Fig 2. Latoya Lace Body (Boux Avenue)
5. COMPETITORS “1.1 An organization or country engaged in commercial or economic competition with others.” (Oxford Dictionary, 2016).
5.1. KEY COMPETITORS The following brands are key competitors for Jane Elizabeth as they offer smaller band sizes and they are at high street level; however, they do not offer many options for the small bust market, meaning customers buy the closest fit they can find.
BRA SIZING 28 30 32
SHOPS GB - 28 International - 12
BRIEF SIZING 6-16
PRICING
34 36
38 40 42
44 46 48 50 52
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AA A B C D DD E
Bras - £15.00 - £45.00 Briefs - £4.00 - £28.00
F
SOCIAL MEDIA
G
FF GG H HH J JJ K
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Fig 1. Rosie for Autograph - Silk and Lace Lingerie Set (M&S)
Fig 2. Rosie for Autograph - Historical Romance Embroidered Set with Bodice (M&S)
Fig 3. Thea High Neck Lace & Mesh Body (ASOS)
Fig 4. Lara Set (ASOS)
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BRA SIZING One size, 8 - 18, S -XL, 1 - 6 28 30 32
SHOPS
AA
GB - 302 International - 468
A
BRIEF SIZING
C
6 - 36, S - XL
D
PRICING Bras - £14.00 - £30.00 Briefs - £6.00 - £35.00
SOCIAL MEDIA
34 36
38 40 42
44 46 48 50 52
54
34 36
38 40 42
44 46 48 50 52
54
B
DD E F FF G GG H HH J JJ K
BRA SIZING 4 - 20, 1 - 10 28 30 32
SHOPS Online only - ships internationally
AA A
BRIEF SIZING
B
4 - 30
C
PRICING Bras - £6.99 - £125.00 Briefs - £4.95 - £38.00
SOCIAL MEDIA
D DD E F FF G GG H HH J JJ K
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Fig 1. B by Ted Baker Black Floral Lace Lingerie Set (Debenhams)
Fig 2. Reger by Janet Reger Light Pink and Black Lace Lingerie Set (Debenhams)
Fig 3. COLLECTION by John Lewis Evie Intense Lingerie Set (John Lewis)
Fig 4. COLLECTION by John Lewis Valentina Luxe Sparkle Lingerie Set (John Lewis)
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BRA SIZING 28 30 32
SHOPS GB & Ireland - 172 International - 68
34 36
38 40 42
44 46 48 50 52
54
34 36
38 40 42
44 46 48 50 52
54
AA A B
BRIEF SIZING
C
6 - 22
D
PRICING
DD
Bras - £10.00 - £49.00 Briefs - £6.00 - £36.00
E
SOCIAL MEDIA
FF
F G GG H HH J JJ K
BRA SIZING 8 - 16, XXS - XXL 28 30 32
SHOPS GB - 49 International - 0
AA A B
BRIEF SIZING
C
8 - 26, XS - XL
D
PRICING
DD
Bras - £9.95 - £60.00 Briefs - £8.00 - £55.00
E
SOCIAL MEDIA
FF
F G GG H HH J JJ K
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Fig 1. Refined Glamour Lingerie Set by Wonderbra (Bravissimo)
Fig 2. Idina Lingerie Set by Panache (Bravissimo)
Fig 3. Grace Silk Lingerie Set (Figleaves)
Fig 4. Temptation and Lace Lingerie Set (Figleaves)
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BRA SIZING 28 30 32
SHOPS GB - 26 International - 0
34 36
38 40 42
44 46 48 50 52
54
34 36
38 40 42
44 46 48 50 52
54
AA A B
BRIEF SIZING
C
8 - 20
D
PRICING
DD
Bras - £22.00 - £41.00 Briefs - £10.00 - £40.00
E
SOCIAL MEDIA
FF
F G GG H HH J JJ K
BRA SIZING 6 - 18, XS - XL 28 30 32
SHOPS Online only - ship internationally
AA A
BRIEF SIZING
B
6 - 44, 1 - 6, XS - XXL
C
PRICING Bras - £10.00 - £96.00 Briefs - £6.00 - £71.00
SOCIAL MEDIA
D DD E F FF G GG H HH J JJ K
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“To understand the heart and mind of a person, look not at what he has already achieved, but at what he aspires to.” (Gibran, 2008)
Fig 1. Lace Plunge Teddy (Victoria’s Secret)
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Fig 2. BODY BY VICTORIA Crochet Lingerie Set (Victoria’s Secret)
5.2. ASPIRATIONAL COMPETITORS The following brands are aspirational competitors for Jane Elizabeth because although they don’t offer small band sizes, the styles of their lingerie is similar to that of Jane Elizabeth.
BRA SIZING XS - XL 28 30 32
SHOPS GB - 16 International - 1019
34 36
38 40 42
44 46 48 50 52
54
AA A B
BRIEF SIZING
C
XS - XL
D
PRICING
DD
Bras - £13.64 - £63.18 Briefs - £7.73 - £25.45
SOCIAL MEDIA
E F FF G GG H HH J JJ K
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Fig 1. Karly Lingerie Set (Ann Summers)
Fig 2.Audrina Lingerie Set (Ann Summers)
Fig 3. Emerson Lingerie Set (Bluebella)
Fig 4. Esme Lingerie Set (Bluebella)
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BRA SIZING XS - L, 6 - 16, 8 -14 B/C, 1 -7 28 30 32
SHOPS GB - 135 International - 0
34 36
38 40 42
44 46 48 50 52
54
44 46 48 50 52
54
AA A B
BRIEF SIZING
C
6 - 24, XS - XL
D
PRICING
DD
Bras - £10.00 - £35.00 Briefs - £4.00 - £18.00
SOCIAL MEDIA
E F FF G GG H HH J JJ K
BRA SIZING XS - XL, 8 - 16, 30/32/34/36 B/C, 28 30 32
SHOPS Online only - ships internationally
A B
6 - 22, XS - XL
C
Bras - £18.00 - £42.00 Briefs - £8.00 - £30.00
SOCIAL MEDIA
38 40 42
AA
BRIEF SIZING PRICING
34 36
D DD E F FF G GG H HH J JJ K
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Fig 1. Gina Lingerie Set (Agent Provocateur)
Fig 2. Joan Lingerie Set (Agent Provocateur)
Fig 3. Angela Girdle Dress (Bordelle)
Fig 4. Soft Mesh Caberet Lingerie Set (Bordelle)
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BRA SIZING 2-5 SHOPS GB - 11 International - 108
28 30 32
34 36
38 40 42
44 46 48 50 52
54
34 36
38 40 42
44 46 48 50 52
54
AA A B
BRIEF SIZING 1 - 5, S/M, M/L
C D
PRICING
DD
Bras - £75.00 - £995.00 Briefs - £20.00 - £495.00
E
SOCIAL MEDIA
F FF G GG H HH J JJ K
BRA SIZING S-L 28 30
32
AA
SHOPS
A
Atelier in London, stocked in Selfridge’s & internationally
B
BRIEF SIZING
D
S-L
DD
PRICING Bras - £70.00 - £260.00 Briefs - £50.00 - £165.00
SOCIAL MEDIA
C
E F FF G GG H HH J JJ K
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Fig 1. Night Mist Embroidery Lingerie Set (Myla)
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Fig 2. Nicole Lingerie Set (Myla)
BRA SIZING S-L 28 30
32
34 36
38 40 42
44 46 48 50 52
54
AA
SHOPS GB - 1 International - 0 but stocked in Selfridge’s & internationally
BRIEF SIZING XS - XL
A B C D DD E
PRICING
F
Bras - £90.00 - £175.00 Briefs - £45.00 - £95.00
FF
SOCIAL MEDIA
G GG H HH J JJ K
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Fig 1. Bridal gift
Fig 2. Fragrance sprays, perfumes, candles, reed diffusers and lotions
Fig 3. Lucy Watson for Boux Avenue
Fig 4. Lingerie set and body
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5.3. CASE STUDY 1 - BOUX AVENUE
“The Boux Avenue story is a teasing transatlantic tale born out of a love for lingerie and all things romantic.” (Boux Avenue Ltd, no date)
Boux Avenue was founded in 2011 by Theo Paphitis after he sold high street lingerie brand La Senza. The target consumer is similar to that for Jane Elizabeth and it has a very similar aesthetic – beautiful, timeless and feminine. The brand is found on the high street and has bras starting at £15.00 going up to £45.00 and briefs starting at £4.00 going up to £28.00; with sizing of bras from 28 – 38 A-G. Boux Avenue offers everyday basics lingerie, such as t-shirts bras and strapless bras, and more fun and flirty lingerie that incorporates lace, silk satin and prints. It also offers a bridal range of lingerie.
Alongside their lingerie ranges, Boux Avenue offers swimwear, nightwear, loungewear, slippers, fragrances and other small accessories. Even though Boux Avenue is a relatively new brand, it has already made great progress with total UK sales increasing by 35.5% in the year ending March 2015 (Boux Avenue Ltd, no date). Jane Elizabeth has identified Boux Avenue as their main competitor due to the similarities between the brands. However, Boux Avenue does not offer small band sizes in all ranges.
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Fig 1. Rosie for Autograph Historical Romance Embroidered Set with Bodice Balcony
Fig 2. Limited Collection Artisan Lace High Apex Plunge Padded Bra and Artisan Lace Brazilian Knickers
Fig 3. Rosie for Autograph Silk and Lace Nude Body
Fig 4. Autograph Long Sleeve Nightdress with Cashmere
5.4. CASE STUDY 2 - MARKS & SPENCER
“Did you know that we sold our first bra in 1926?” (Marks & Spencer Plc, no date)
Marks & Spencer has been a fixture on the Great British high street since 1894 growing out of Michael Marks’ penny bazaar at Kirkgate Market in Leeds, founded in 1884 (Marks & Spencer Plc, no date). Mintel Academic (2016) reports that Marks & Spencer is still the market leader for lingerie and attributes its continued success to the popularity of Autograph campaigns with Rosie Huntington Whiteley and, for men’s underwear, David Gandy. Marks & Spencer has bras starting at £14.00 going up to £30.00 and briefs starting at £6.00 going up to £35.00 in sizes 28 – 46 AA – K and 6 – 36.
t offers everyday basics, post-surgery bras, maternity and nursing bras, sports bras, teen bras and their fashion ranges, including Limited Collection and Rosie for Autograph. In the lingerie department, Marks & Spencer also offers nightwear, loungewear and swimwear. Marks & Spencer is a key competitor for Jane Elizabeth because of its popularity with the target audience. However, the offering for small band sizes is very small, most of it within the Angel First Bras teen range.
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Fig 1. The Cropped Bustier Uplift
Fig 2. Strappy Plunge Teddy
Fig 3. Dream Girl - Maria Borges - London Fashion Show 2014
Fig 4. Exotic Traveller - Adriana Lima and Alessandra Ambrosio - London Fashion Show 2014
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5.5. CASE STUDY 3 - VICTORIA’S SECRET
“Our name is synonymous with all things feminine and sexy” (Victoria’s Secret, no date)
Victoria’s Secret was founded in 1977 when its founder, Roy Raymond, felt uncomfortable buying lingerie for his wife in department stores. The first shop opened in Palo Alto, named after Queen Victoria. “The shop was the quintessential American vision of an English boudoir.” (Blakeman, 2014). In 2014, Victoria’s Secret was the largest lingerie retailer in the US and it had begun global expansion (Snyder, 2014) and currently has 16 stores in the UK. Victoria’s Secret is well known for its annual Fashion Show where ‘angels’ strut their stuff down a catwalk, in the brand’s lingerie, specially made wings, along to performances by some of the most current acts in music.
One or two ‘angels’ will be chosen to wear a specially designed “Fantasy Bra’ for the show usually worth millions (Snyder, 2014). Victoria’s Secret has bras starting at £13.64 going up to £63.18 and briefs starting at £7.73 going up to £25.45. The brand currently offers fun and flirty lingerie, swimwear and beauty accessories; however, in May 2016, new CEO Jan Singer announced she would be cutting swimwear from the offering (Conlon, 2016). Victoria’s Secret do not offer any bras in band sizes lower than 32.
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â&#x20AC;&#x153;The aim of marketing is to know and understand the customer so well the product or service fits him and sells itselfâ&#x20AC;? (Drucker, no date)
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6. MARKET OVERVIEW “Mintel estimates that the underwear market will grow by 2.2% in 2016” (Mintel Academic, 2016) Marks & Spencer is the lead retailer for lingerie with 46% of female shoppers buying their underwear there; however, for younger shoppers Primark and supermarket retailers are also popular choices. Replacement buying is the main motivation of female shoppers with 78% of sales, although 34% also buy as a treat for themselves (Mintel Academic, 2016).
Female shoppers 65+ dominate the lingerie market with £863million, however 25-35 come not far behind with £715million. 16-25 brought in £622million worth of sales in 2015 (Verdict Retail, 2015).
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Fig 1. Price Comparison graph of Jane Elizabethâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s competitors
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6.1. MARKET POSITIONING The Marketing Matrix (below) and Price Comparison graph (on opposite page) show where Jane Elizabeth sits in the current market.
PRICE HIGH
STYLE CLASSIC
SEXY
LOW
Fig 2. Marketing Matrix showing Jane Elizabeth against its competitors in terms of price and style
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â&#x20AC;&#x153;UK underwear specialists expose weakness by not focusing on younger shoppersâ&#x20AC;? (Verdict Retail, 2015)
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6.2. MARKET POTENTIAL According to Verdict Retail (2015) 21.6% of 16-24 year olds buy their underwear from lingerie specialists, which is the highest proportion of all the age groups; however, they also mention that most lingerie specialists focus on the 25+ market leaving this younger age group largely ignored. Verdict Retail (2015) suggests that premium brands like Rigby & Peller should follow Agent Provocateur by creating a diffusion brand available at a lower price point,
such as Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Agent by Agent Provocateur, which is available at ASOS. Younger shoppers have been found to be more experimental with their lingerie, rather than buying for convenience and more driven by brand name (Verdict Retail, 2015).
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â&#x20AC;&#x153;Realizing what is PEST and knowing how to take this analysis into consideration, the organization can be in a better position to analyze the challenges, environment, factors, opportunities, restrictions and incentives it faces.â&#x20AC;? (PESTLE Analysis, 2014)
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6.3. MACRO ENVIRONMENT - PEST “1. The major external and uncontrollable factors that The chart below shows the political, economical, social influence an organization’s decision making, and affect and technological factors affecting Jane Elizabeth. its performance and strategies. These factors include the economic factors; demographics; legal, political, and social conditions; technological changes; and natural forces.” (Business Dictionary, no date).
POLITICAL: • Brexit – this provides an uncertain future for the UK markets, especially manufacturing. Companies will do better to get products manufactured internationally (CBI Member, 2016) • Taxation – the company may be liable to pay taxes when importing or exporting into international countries due to trade agreements • Trade barriers – trade agreements may have to be made when Article 50 is enforced
ECONOMICAL: • The value of the pound – the value of the pound rises and falls over time due to political and economical factors; this influences the price of raw materials and the finished product • UK Economy – the UK has the fifth largest economy in the world (Bajpai, 2015) • Globalisation – when a brand expands internationally it opens itself up to other economies
SOCIAL: • Sustainability – many consumers want to know the manufacturing processes behind the brand are ethical and sustainable when buying their products • Charity associations – consumers like to know that big brands are giving back to those in need • Celebrity endorsement – celebrities that are popular with consumers can help promote a brand
TECHNOLOGICAL: • Social media – it is now easier to connect with brands and see who is wearing what • Smart materials – with the development of new smart materials, innovative products can be made • Manufacturing developments – technology can change the manufacturing process speeding it up
Fig 1. PEST Analysis of the UK lingerie market
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â&#x20AC;&#x153;SWOT can be used to gain insight about the market, giving you a better understanding of your competition.â&#x20AC;? (PESTLE Analysis, 2016)
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6.4. MICRO ENVIRONMENT - SWOT “1. Factors or elements in an organization’s immediate area The chart below shows the strengths, weaknesses, of operations that affect its performance and decision- opportunities and threats of the market affecting Jane making freedom. These factors include competitors, Elizabeth. customers, distribution channels, suppliers, and the general public.” (Business Dictionary, no date).
STRENGTHS: • Gap in the market – there aren’t many brands offering lingerie to the small bust market • Younger shoppers don’t buy for solely convenience – more experimental meaning Jane Elizabeth can offer exciting designs • Lingerie market growing – the UK lingerie market continues to grow steadily
WEAKNESSES: • Competition – there are a lot of specialist lingerie shops in the market • Small target market – the small bust market is quite niche • Uncertainty – due to political factors the future could be uncertain
OPPORTUNITIES: • Job creation – a new brand on the high street will create more job opportunities • Ignored shoppers – can create a brand that will cater to ignored consumers • Internet – advertising campaigns can go viral very quickly helping to bring a new brand into the public conscience
THREATS: • Brand loyalty – consumers may stick to what they know and not try a new brand • Bigger organisations – more money to try new things • Other brands move in on gap in market – if a new brand succeeds where there is a gap in the market, bigger brands may try and capitalise on it
Fig 1. SWOT Analysis of Jane Elizabeth
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1. RESEARCH: Trends, fabrics, colours and shapes
2. DEVELOPMENT: Product designs
3. SAMPLING: Ordering of fabrics and trims
4. PATTERNS: Development of patterns
5. TOILE: Develop toiles
6. PRODUCT SAMPLES: Cut & sewn
7. FINAL SAMPLES: Collection selected
8. SELLING SEASON: Orders taken
9. FINAL PRODUCT: Modifications made and patterns graded for sizes
10. QUALITY CONTROL: Final checks made
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11. PACKAGING & SHIPPING: Final garments shipped to stores
Fig 1. Supply chain
7. SUPPLY CHAIN On the opposite page is the supply chain for making the garments for Jane Elizabeth.
7.1. SOURCING Sourcing for the collections for Jane Elizabeth will change Once the brand has become more established, the as the brand grows. Whilst the brand is new the brand will brand will use wholesalers and go to trade shows such as be sourcing the fabrics and components from fabric shops Interfilliere. in London, such as Schwarzschild Ochs and Broadwick Silks.
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Sep 16 Oct 16 Nov 16 Dec 16 Jan 17 Research for report Write up report Print report Research trends, colour, shapes Initial designs Design development Toiling Production of final garments Fig 1. Critical path
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Feb 17 Mar 17 Apr 17 May 17
7.2. CRITICAL PATH On the opposite page is the critical path for completing this report and creating the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first collection.
7.3. SOURCING CONSIDERATIONS When sourcing fabrics and components certain considerations must be thought of: 1. Changes in the retail market 2. Positioning of the brand 3. Costings 4. Countries for sourcing 5. Balanced portfolio of suppliers
7.4. MANUFACTURING The brand asked a CBI Employee about Brexitâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s effect on the lingerie industry and was informed that UK manufacturing will become a lot more expensive and it would be better to manufacture garments in China (CBI Employee, 2016).
7.5. SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTION The packaging, swing tags and bags for Jane Elizabeth will be made from recyclable materials so as to be environmentally friendly. The packaging will also be produced in the UK. 59
Fig 1. Example of Jane Elizabeth bag
BACK
FRONT
Fig 2. Example of Jane Elizabeth swing label
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8. RETAIL PLAN
â&#x20AC;&#x153;No decision should be made on an empty shopping bag.â&#x20AC;? (Paul, 2014)
8.1. PACKAGING AND LABELS Jane Elizabeth will use recyclable materials for packaging For garments ordered online, they will be delivered in a and labels. black box with pale pink tissue paper inside. This will be packaged in a discreet cardboard box. The bags will be made from card with string handles with pale pink tissue paper inside. On the opposite page are examples of the bags and swing labels. The swing labels will also be made from card and tied onto the garments by string. The back of the labels will show what sizes the garment is available in.
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Fig 1. Initial template for www.jane-elizabeth.co.uk
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8.2. DISTRIBUTION AND STOCKISTS When Jane Elizabeth first launches, it will be an online only store which will be available from the brand’s own website (see below) which would ship internationally. The brand would then open shops in major UK cities, such as London, Birmingham, Manchester, Liverpool and Southampton. In 5 years’ time, the brand aims to open international shops across Europe and the US.
The brand aims to have concessions in shops such as John Lewis, Selfridges and House of Fraser and at airports. It also aims to be stocked by online shop ASOS and online small bust lingerie specialist Little Women.
8.3. WEBSITE The brand has purchased the domain On the opposite page is a template for the home page of www.jane-elizabeth.co.uk and intends to buy the website where customers can make purchases on the www.jane-elizabeth.com for international customers. online store. The website will feature photos from fashion shoots, links to relevant social media, a sign up form for the brand’s newsletter and an About page where customers can learn about the brand.
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“Social media is here. It’s not going away; not a passing fad. Be where your customers are: in social media.” (Ruff, 2013)
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8.4. SOCIAL MEDIA Social media has become a very powerful tool for businesses in recent years, “92% of marketers in 2014 claimed that social media marketing was important for their business, with 80% indicating their efforts increased traffic to their websites.” (DeMers, 2014). Social media can help brand exposure with the use of paid for ads on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. It can also improve brand loyalty by letting consumers feel closer to the brand by ‘liking’ or ‘following’ the brand’s accounts; this way they can get daily updates about the brand and find out about new lines and promotions.
However, to achieve success the right platforms need to be used. Jane Elizabeth will create social media accounts on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Pinterest, Tumblr, YouTube and it will have a blog. These platforms were chosen based on what competitors use, this way the brand ensures that it reaches all of its potential customers.
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“Speak to your audience in their language about what’s in their heart.” (Lister, no date)
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9. BRAND MARKETING “1. The action or business of promoting and selling products or services, including market research and advertising.” (Oxford Dictionary, 2016)
9.1. PR EVENTS To build publicity around the brand Jane Elizabeth will put At these events, guests will receive goody bags with on events, such as fashion shows. The brand will invite products from the brand and special offers to claim online the press and customers to these events so that it can get and in store. more exposure and to build a connection with customers.
9.2. PROMOTIONS At intervals throughout the year Jane Elizabeth will offer and get a matching pair of knickers” offer on the brand’s promotions to its customers. There will be end of season fashion ranges. sales before new collections drop. There will also be 3 for 2 offers on the brand’s everyday ranges and “Buy a bra
9.3. BODY POSITIVITY CAMPAIGNS Jane Elizabeth will work with body positivity charities, such as BODY and Body Gossip, and working with the Be Real Campaign. Body Dysmorphic Disorder (BDD) is a condition where individuals perceive themselves as flawed in some way. BDD usually goes hand-in-hand with other mental health issues, such as depression and Obsessive Compulsive Disorder (BODY, no date). Jane Elizabeth believes that every woman should feel happy in the body that they have and wants to bring more attention to the charities that are there to help support those suffering from BDD.
To do this, the brand will collaborate with the charities and sell ranges where a percentage of the profits are donated to the charities. The brand will also start social media campaigns highlighting the issue of BDD and depression to try and garner support for those suffering and to heighten awareness. Jane Elizabeth will also host special charity events, such as the fashion shows previously mentioned, to build up a buzz around the campaigns.
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Fig 1. Example of Jane Elizabeth Reward Card
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9.4. REWARD SCHEME Jane Elizabeth will offer customers the opportunity to sign up for a Reward Card which allows them to gain access to special benefits. Benefits will include: • “Points for Pounds” • Birthday voucher • Early access to sales • Early access to tickets for events • Money off vouchers every quarter based on instore/ online spending
The reward scheme allows the brand to create a base of loyal customers and show them that the brand appreciates their loyalty. The brand’s survey showed that offering “Points for Pounds” was a very popular benefit of reward schemes, followed by money off vouchers and a birthday voucher (Dungate, 2016). On the opposite page is an example of Jane Elizabeth’s Reward Card.
9.5. E-MAIL NEWSLETTER Jane Elizabeth will offer customers to sign up for a weekly online newsletter. This can be done by completing the form at the bottom of each page on the website, instore, creating an account online or by signing up to the reward scheme.
The newsletter will contain a round-up of the week in the Jane Elizabeth Head Office, make customers aware of sales, inform customers about events and blog updates about the brand and its charity campaigns.
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“Business models, though, are anything but arcane. They are, at heart, stories—stories that explain how enterprises work.” (Magretta, 2002)
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10. BUSINESS STRATEGY “1. A plan of action designed to achieve a long-term or overall aim” (Oxford Dictionary, 2016)
10.1. CORE MODEL Jane Elizabeth will focus on building a great loyal customer base; it can achieve this by tapping into a largely ignored consumer, women with a small bust. In the first five years, the brand will create this loyal customer base by spending money on advertising and marketing. This will create the initial exposure that the brand needs to become well known in the small bust
market. The brand will focus on its UK expansion during this time. In the following five years following the success of the UK expansion, Jane Elizabeth will focus on its global expansion by focusing on advertising and marketing in international markets.
10.2. UK EXPANSION Jane Elizabeth will initially be an online only shop – www. jane-elizabeth.co.uk. This will keep costs down at the beginning by not needing to pay rent for shop space. With the use of the internet and social media, Jane Elizabeth can get the exposure needed to gather its first customers. Within the first five years, the brand aims to open physical shops in the UK’s major cities, such as: London,
Birmingham, Edinburgh, Cardiff, Belfast, Bristol, Manchester, Liverpool and Southampton. The brand would also open one of the first stores in Basingstoke, the creator of the brand’s hometown, like Burberry. After ten years, Jane Elizabeth aims to have a physical shop on the majority of high streets in the UK.
10.3. INTERNATIONAL EXPANSION After the first year of successful UK trading, Jane Elizabeth will open its international online shop – www.jane-elizabeth.com. The online shop will offer shipping to international addresses in Europe, the US and Asia. Customer bases in these destinations can be created using social media. East Asia will be
a key target as according to research by Target Map the average cup size in East Asia is an A or a B (House, 2016). After five years, Jane Elizabeth will start opening physical shops internationally starting in Europe. After ten years, Jane Elizabeth aims to have physical stores in Asia and the US.
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Fig 1. Iron balustrade
Fig 2. Man shrouded in lace
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Fig 3. Woman with lace blindfold
11. COLLECTION OVERVIEW 11.1. INSPIRATION Jane Elizabeth has taken inspiration for its first collection, a Limited Edition range, from the secrecy and intimacy of the boudoir and the best-selling Fifty Shades trilogy. The collection will feature soft fabrics, such as silk satins and chiffons, and lots of lace detailing. The shapes the pieces will make take inspiration from iron balustrades and the lace takes inspiration from roses and ivy entwining
themselves around it. The garments will feature details exposing little bits of skin, like peekaboo briefs, keyhole bridges, gate backs and cut outs. The images on this page illustrate the mood that this collection will aim to create.
Fig 4. Woman with lace mask
Fig 5. Woman with floral pattern on face
Fig 6. Woman in a boudoir
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^ Fig 1. Open back briefs
< Fig 2. Illustration
v Fig 3. Dark lace
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Fig 4. Lace briefs and suspenders
Fig 5. Lace and nude mesh
11.2. TREND BOARD
KEY SHAPES
Fig 7. Balcony Bra
Fig 8. High Apex Bra
Fig 10. Mesh insert body
Fig 9. Peekaboo Knicker
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Fig 1. Black lace, strapping and satin
Fig 2. Grey and nude pink lace
Fig 3. Navy lace and cotton, purple and black strapping
Fig 4. Red and black lace
Fig 5. Red lace and nude pink lace
Fig 6. Red, pink and purple lace and purple strapping
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11.3. COLOUR BOARD
COLOUR PALETTES - WGSN
ADDITIONAL COLOUR PALETTES -DUNGATE
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Fig 1. Black lace
Fig 2. Black and blue lace
Fig 3. Black lace
Fig 4. Black lace
Fig 5. Black lace
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11.4. FABRIC BOARD
Fig 6. Lace design
Fig 7. Lace design
Fig 8. Chiffon
Fig 9. Silk satin
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Fig 1. Jane Elizabeth price architecture
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11.5. EVALUATION The collection will be made primarily from lace and silk satins with strapping details. Rings and sliders will be gold coloured to add a feeling of luxury. Key shapes for the AW 17/18 season are: balcony bras; high apex bras; bodies with mesh inserts; and peekaboo knickers. These shapes will be incorporated into the collection in ways that are
compatible with the mood the collection will create. This will be done with cut outs, and lace inserts as well as mesh inserts. To be in keeping with the brand’s aesthetic, clean lines and minimalist shapes will be used.
11.6. PRICE ARCHITECTURE Below is the price architecture for Jane Elizabeth.
On the opposite page is a graph illustrating the price architecture.
Lowest Price
Highest Price
Bras
£15.00
£50.00
Briefs
£5.00
£35.00
Bodies
£20.00
£60.00
£1.50
£25.00
Limited Edition - Bras
£55.00
£95.00
Limited Edition - Briefs
£40.00
£80.00
Limited Edition - Bodies
£70.00
£120.00
Accessories
81
82
11.7. INITIAL DESIGNS
83
84
85
86
12. CONCLUSION The research has shown that there is a gap in the market for a wide range of enticing, well-fitting lingerie specifically tailored for small busted women. To make the most of this opportunity, Jane Elizabeth needs to be a brand with ranges - everyday basics, fashion and Limited Edition - that appeal to women of all ages.
shapes, such as a t-shirt bra, strapless bra and bikini briefs. These garments will be made from plain fabrics, such as cotton, in neutral colours and black.
Marketing will aim to create a loyal customer base. By using social media this could be achieved easily and relatively cheaply. For small fees posts can be promoted As for the younger market, the main brand does on platforms like Facebook, Instagram and Twitter. If not want to alienate mothers of teen girls by having a hashtag goes viral, exposure for the brand can be designs for them that are too provocative; to address gained for free. Also, a brand ambassador can be this, and at the same time to nurture brand loyalty in used to spread the message about Jane Elizabeth and the growing girl, the Miss Jane Elizabeth range will be endorse the products. But, social media posts and brand designed specifically to cater to the younger teen market. ambassadors need to be chosen carefully, because if they are or become inappropriate to the brand and the target The main brand’s fashion and Limited Edition ranges customer base it will rapidly suffer. need to strike a balance for the older woman: by being more glamorous than their normal outwear and If Jane Elizabeth plays to its strengths, exploits the meeting the “you are only as old as you feel” aspiration opportunities, and is aware of its weaknesses and threats, but avoiding the risk of “mutton dressed as lamb”. it can become a very successful brand indeed. The everyday basics range will consist of well-made key
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13. APPENDICES 13.1. SURVEY Question 1: What is your age? Skipped: 0
Question 2: What clothing size do you buy? (UK sizing) Skipped: 7
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Question 3: What bra size are you? (UK sizing) Skipped: 16 Comments: 42c
38C
Dd or E
36FF
42B
30E
40DD
30GG
38G
34E/32F
Question 4: Where do you buy your bras from? Skipped: 8 Other responses: Stella McCartney
Playful Promises, Myla
Agent Provocateur
John Lewis, Selfridges, AP
Small shop in Launceston Rigby & Peller Ann Summers
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Question 5: Are you able to find your size in stores? Skipped: 8 Other responses: Not always as I need 32 E or 34 dd Although I can find my size in a lot of stores now, I tend to shop is specialist stores because I am a bra snob!
Question 6: Have you ever been fitted for a bra? Skipped: 7
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Question 7: What makes you buy from a certain brand? Skipped: 10
Other responses: comfort
Historically a good fit & shape for me.
Fit of the product Quality Perfect fit
I will just buy anything that fits well (rare)
Brand ethos makes a big impact on where I Post surgery requirement buy different pieces and how much iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m willing to Convenience spend, e.g: Ethical or UK manufactoring, Cruelty free Tried and tested fit, comfortsilks etc etc! and quality
92
Question 8: Do you sign up to brand loyalty schemes? (e.g. Marks & Spencer Sparks Card) Skipped: 11
Question 9: What benefits do you like from brand loyalty schemes? Skipped: 15
93
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13.2. FOCUS GROUP Jane Dungate Does social media affect your decisions to buy certain brands?
Sophie Beet I don’t think celebrities play an important role for me personally, but at House of Fraser in their lingerie department there’s been a huge increase in sales in Calvin Ida Benedicte Sture Klein sport bra tops since kenndel Jenner starting working The only way it affects me is how it is telling me what is “out with them there”. For example if I read a blog or look at someone’s Instagram account who have a cool style I would be Maeve Huthwaite inspired to buy something similar, but it doesn’t have to Yeah I don’t really care about celebrity brand ambassadors be the same exact brand. cause it all seems kinda fake Sophie Beet I look at Instagram and see style I like but I don’t focus on the brand. If I see something similar when I shop, then I’ll probably buy it
Jane Dungate How about the other way? Would your opinion of a brand change if they used a celebrity whose values you didn’t agree with?
Jane Dungate Would that be just any person’s Instagram, or your friends’ or celebrities?
Ida Benedicte Sture It’s more about getting inspiration for outfits. Don’t need to buy the same exact brand or the same kind of outfit, and doesn’t matter who is wearing it as long as it looks good.
Maeve Huthwaite If i didnt like a companies socal media it wouldnt stop me from shopping there but if I like their instagram feed I would be more likely to follow it so i would see what they have available making it easier for me to shop there
Maeve Huthwaite Yeah I think if a brand started using say Donald trump as an ambassador I wouldn’t really want to shop there but it wouldn’t stop me if I really liked their stuff and I might still take inspiration from them
Ida Benedicte Sture It’s mostly the few bloggers I follow, some celebrities, stylists and some random inspirational accounts. Ida Benedicte Sture It’s very few people I dislike and don’t care that much who Maeve Huthwaite is fronting the brand. And highly doubt the brand would personally I wouldn’t shop at a brand just becasue I use a person everyone hated for a fashion brand anyways. saw a celebrity wearing it on instagram but I might take inspiration from it and find something similar Maeve Huthwaite Yeah brands are always quick to drop people that their Jane Dungate customers might have an issue with but it doesn’t really So would you say that celebrity brand ambassadors aren’t bother me anyway that influential on your shopping decisions?
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Sophie Beet I think if I really didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t agree with them out of stubbornness I may not buy it Ida Benedicte Sture If the most horrible person in the world is representing the brand it obviously be maybe some kind of deal breaker, but not sure if I would completely stop buying their products. Ethical reasons (if they are made very clear to me) would be more of a deal breaker. Jane Dungate What ethical reasons are important to you? Sophie Beet I would love to spend a littl more more get lingerie thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s made in the U.K. I think this is something I would value Jane Dungate When you say made, does that include fabrics made in the U.K. as well as assembly of the garments? Sophie Beet Maybe because Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m more aware about the impact production has on the environment and how far one garment has to travel to reach me Maeve Huthwaite I think not using sweat shops is important but I feel like a lot of brands do and lie about it Sophie Beet I think at this point in time fabric would be unrealistic, but would be amazing if start to finish could be. Mary porter did some pants that were completely made in the uk
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Ida Benedicte Sture I never buy fur and not that much leather so it would be about the production process for those companies who produce those produce those products. The way they treat the animals are disgusting and therefore I would for example never buy fur. Also, where the product is produce is also obviously important, but not always as good at following that one.
Jane Dungate Do you tend to buy your lingerie from one shop, or a range of shops? Sophie Beet I like going to lots of places, but this does mean some brands fit better than others I like the variety of choice by not being limited
Jane Dungate Jane Dungate Along with being a brand whose values align with yours, If a brand offered a loyalty scheme, such as a reward card, what makes you buy specific brands? would that make you shop there more often? Design? Fit? Price? Etc Sophie Beet Maeve Huthwaite Love a good discount option Price and design are very important. If I like a design but So yes it’s too expensive I won’t buy it Maeve Huthwaite Jane Dungate I like to shop at different brands but i tend to be limited by What is too expensive? sizing options, for example Nihole de carle never has my size but i love her stuff and asos literally has like 2 of their Sophie Beet ranges in my size I’d rather save up for a more expensive brand to get say 1 i also tend to go with who has the best deal like if they are set of lingerie that more interesting than 2 more plain ones having a sample sale and yes to any sort of reward scheme thing! Maeve Huthwaite It depends on what it is tbh some things I would spend Jane Dungate more on like a coat or shoes but umm or going to spend Thanks guys for all that £100 on a tshirt Jane Dungate How much is the maximum you would spend on a lingerie set? Maeve Huthwaite Hmmm maybe like £80
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13.3. GUARDIAN ARTICLE: UK plastic surgery statistics: breasts up, stomachs in
UK plastic surgery statistics: breasts up, stomachs in UK plastic surgery is on the increase, despite the recession. Find out which procedures are going up and which are down • Get the data
UK plastic surgery statistics. Click image to see graphic
Plastic surgery is big business in the UK - and despite the recession, it's a growing one. Breast augmentations are still by far the most popular cosmetic surgery procedure for women and have risen year on year - although these figures take no account of the breast implant scandal, which recently led plastic surgeons to call for a ban on advertising it. Plastic surgery statistics in the UK show a record number of male 'tummy tuck' operations as the rise in demand outstrips that for all other procedures - including women's breast enlargement. Figures published by the British Association of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons (BAAPs) that really is its acronym - showed abdominoplasty operations grew by 15%, while
98
overall male cosmetic surgery grew by 5.6%. The association represents one in three plastic surgeons.
Patient with Surgical Markers for Plastic Surgery drawn on her face. Photograph: ER Productions/© ER Productions/CORBIS The figures are only surgical procedures. They do not include non-surgical "lunchtime" plastic procedures, such as botox injections. We're certainly not at US levels though. Overall, 43,069 procedures were done by association members for men and women in 2011, compared with 38,274 in 2010, a rise of 5.8%. Women accounted for 38,771. The key findings are:
Women Breast implants are in the news - the French government has told over 30,000 women they are at risk from defective implants made of non-medical silicone filler. Over 70,000 women in Britain and France are estimated to have the implants created by the Poly Implant Prothese (PIP) company which was shut down last year. Its head was recently arrested. In the UK, women had 90% of all cosmetic procedures in 2011, the same percentage of total procedures as in 2011. The top ones were: • Breast augmentation - up 6.2% from last year slightly less than last year's 10% rise • Blepharoplasty (eyelids) were up 4.8% to become the second biggest procedure for women • Face/Neck Lifts were third place for the second year running, with 4,700 procedures
Men 99
Men had 10% of all cosmetic procedures in 2011 (4,298). The big ops were: • 'Man boob' ops or Gynaecomastia kept its place as the second most common male procedure, rising by 7% from 741 to 790 • Male liposuction went up by 8% • Rhinoplasty or nose jobs, up by 5%, much less than last year's 13.2% • Blepharoplasty (eyelid surgery): up 5% to 684 We have the BAAPs data for you to download going back to 2008. Can you do anything with it?
Data summary Plastic surgery statistics, UK
Surgical procedures. Click heading to sort table. Download this spreadsheet
100
TYPE OF PROCEDURE
SEX
2008
ALL PROCEDURES
TOTAL
34,187 36,482 38,274 43,069 5.8
Breast augmentation
TOTAL
8,449
8,565
9,430
10,015 6.2
Blepharoplasty (eyelid surgery)
TOTAL
5,130
5,443
5,779
6,057
4.8
Face/Neck Lift
TOTAL
4,547
4,241
4,756
4,968
4.5
Breast Reduction
TOTAL
3,845
4,703
4,207
5,291
6.7
Abdominoplasty (tummy tuck)
TOTAL
3,638
3,403
3,147
3,375
7.2
Liposuction
TOTAL
3,249
3,509
3,369
3,581
6.3
Rhinoplasty
TOTAL
3,065
3,836
4,207
4,518
7.4
Fat transfer
TOTAL
2,551
5
Otoplasty (ear correction)
TOTAL
1,260
1,349
1,114
1,170
5
Brow lifts
TOTAL
1,004
1,433
1,513
1,543
2
ALL PROCEDURES
WOMEN 31,183 32,859 34,413 38,771 5.8
Breast augmentation
WOMEN 8,449
8,537
9,418
10,003 6.2
Blepharoplasty (eyelid surgery)
WOMEN 4,520
4,827
5,127
5,373
4.8
Face/Neck Lift
WOMEN 4,355
4,005
4,493
4,700
4.7
Breast Reduction
WOMEN 3,522
4,122
4,218
4,501
6.7
Abdominoplasty (tummy tuck)
WOMEN 3,526
3,268
3,039
3,251
7
Liposuction
WOMEN 2,770
3,010
2,896
3,070
6
Rhinoplasty
WOMEN 2,367
2,959
3,214
3,475
5
Fat transfer
WOMEN
2,331
5
Otoplasty (ear correction)
WOMEN 752
807
618
649
5
Brow lifts
WOMEN 932
1,324
1,390
1,418
4
ALL PROCEDURES
MEN
3,623
3,861
4,298
5.6
3,004
2009
2010
2011
% change, 2010 2011
Breast augmentation TYPE OF PROCEDURE Blepharoplasty (eyelid surgery)
MEN SEX MEN
0 2008 610
28 2009 616
0 2010 652
12 2011 684
0 % change, 2010 5 2011
Face/Neck Lift
MEN
192
236
263
268
2
Breast Reduction
MEN
323
581
741
790
7
Abdominoplasty (tummy tuck)
MEN
112
135
108
124
15
Liposuction
MEN
479
499
473
511
8
Rhinoplasty
MEN
698
877
993
1,043
5
Fat transfer
MEN
220
5
Otoplasty (ear correction)
MEN
508
542
496
521
5
Brow lifts
MEN
72
109
123
125
2
SOURCE: British Association of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons (BAAPs)
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13.4. BAAPS ARTICLE: Tweak not tuck
Tweak not tuck New statistics show extreme surgery’s gone bust – surgeons welcome more educated public London – 26 January, 2015 – The wave of postrecession excess which last year resulted in a stratospheric rise in glamour modelinspired boob jobs and summer bodyinfluenced transformations has truly washed over, with new statistics showing Britons have settled into more cautious, rational attitudes towards cosmetic surgery. New figures from the British Association of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons (www.baaps.org.uk); the only professional organisation solely dedicated to safety and education in cosmetic surgery, and which represents the vast majority of NHStrained consultant plastic surgeons in private practice; today reveal that the number of cosmetic ops last year decreased 9% overall since 2013, with some procedures falling considerably more out of favour than others. ‘Tweaked, not tucked’ appears to have become the new aesthetic ideal with the demand for subtle, understated antiaging procedures such as eyelid surgery, face lifts and fat transfer remaining largely unchanged – yet more ‘conspicuous’ treatments such as tummy tucks and nose jobs dropping dramatically. And whilst breast augmentation (boob jobs) kept its top place as the most popular surgical procedure, demand for them plunged by a quarter (23%). Breast reductions, increasingly unavailable on the Health Service, went up by a modest 3%. Despite a boom over the past decade in male surgery, the men of 2014 largely eschewed cosmetic enhancements – possibly influenced by the preference for the more rugged, facial hairsporting look currently in fashion – with male figures decreasing by 15% overall. Nose jobs, which were last year’s most popular procedure for men, plummeted by as much as 30% and even ‘moob’ reduction has sagged by 10%. All male procedures, in fact, took a tumble, although less dramatically in terms of subtle treatments such as male eyelid surgery, which barely drooped by 4% and became their most popular op. The ratio of men remained the same as previous years however, with male patients still accounting for roughly one in ten (9%) of all surgical procedures. Female numbers decreased by 9% overall, although surgical liposuction for women increased in popularity by a considerable 10%, as the backlash against the mostly ineffective nonsurgical options for fat removal appeared to continue. The number of total surgical procedures in 2014 was 45,506 and their order of popularity has shifted for the first time in five years. The BAAPS welcomes these new trends, attributing them to an increasingly educated public which has come to the realisation that surgery is rarely the quick fix it’s widely marketed as. According to Rajiv Grover, consultant plastic surgeon and former President of the BAAPS with responsibility for the UK national audit of cosmetic surgery; “The difference between 2013 and 2014 may seem surprising, but the dramatic doubledigit rise last year was very clearly a postausterity ‘boom’, and figures are simply now returning to a more rational level. It might seem
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counterintuitive that as plastic surgeons we could possibly welcome such a change, but we are pleased that the public are now so much more thoughtful, cautious and educated in their approach to cosmetic surgery. “Aesthetic preferences naturally evolve over time – 2014 saw men sporting bushy beards and women bushy eyebrows, as well as a number of ‘enhanced’ celebrities downgrade their implant sizes. In cosmetic surgery the natural, lessismore look is definitely on the rise as patients opt to be ‘tweaked’ rather than ‘tucked’.” According to Michael Cadier, consultant plastic surgeon and BAAPS President; “With demand for the most subtle antiageing procedures such as eyelid surgery and facelifts holding steady, it’s clear that the public of 2014 were after a refreshed or youthful appearance rather than more conspicuous alterations. Proven treatments such as surgical liposuction also continued to rise which is unsurprising, when so many non surgical alternatives for fat removal seem ineffective. “The message to the aesthetic sector is clear: patients want subtle and understated – most refreshingly, they are doing their research, taking their time and coming to us with realistic expectations. At the BAAPS we consider this to be a triumph and, as the only organisation based at the Royal College of Surgeons solely dedicated to advancing safety and training in aesthetic surgery, we’re committed to continue in our mission of promoting education and sensible decision making in cosmetic procedures.” The figures in full: MEN & WOMEN COMBINED The top ten surgical procedures for men & women for 2014 (total 45,406 – a fall of 9%) In order of popularity:
Breast augmentation: 8,619 – down 23% from last year
Blepharoplasty (eyelids): 7,752 – down 1%
Face/Neck Lift: 6,402 – up 1%
Breast Reduction: 5,528 – up 1%
Liposuction: 4,627 – up 7% (Rose to 5th place from 6th)
Rhinoplasty: 3,690– down 24% (Dropped to 6th from 5th)
Fat Transfer: 3,155 – down 4% (Increased to 7th from 8th)
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Abdominoplasty: 2,713 – down 20% (Dropped to 8th from 7th)
Browlift: 1,978 – down 7%
Otoplasty (ear correction): 942 – down 20%
WOMEN ONLY The top ten surgical procedures for women in 2014 (41,364 total – a fall of 9% from 2013) Women had 91% of all cosmetic procedures in 2014. 2014 figures for women in order of popularity:
Breast augmentation: 8,609 – down 20% from last year
Blepharoplasty (eyelid ops): 6,903 – static
Face/Neck Lift: 6,075 – up 1%
Breast Reduction: 4,823 – up 3%
Liposuction: 4,138 – up 10% (Up to 5th from 6th place in 2013)
Rhinoplasty: 2,977 – down 20% (Down to 6th place from 5th)
Fat Transfer: 2,914 – down 4% (Up to 7th from 8th place in 2013)
Abdominoplasty: 2,608 – down 20% (Dropped to 8th place from 7th in 2013)
Brow lifts: 1,836 – down 5%
Otoplasty (ear correction): 481 – down 25%
MEN ONLY The top ten surgical procedures for men in 2014 (4,042 total. A fall of 15% from 2013) Men had 9% of all cosmetic procedures in 2014.
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2014 figures for men in order of popularity:
Blepharoplasty (eyelid ops): 849 – down 4% from last year (Up to 1st place from 2nd)
Rhinoplasty: 713 – down 30% (Down to 2nd place from 1st in 2013)
Breast Reduction: 705 – down 10%
Liposuction: 489 – down 10%
Otoplasty (ear correction): 461 – down 15%
Face/Neck Lift: 327 – down 10%
Fat Transfer: 241 – down 9%
Brow lifts: 142 – down 19%
Abdominoplasty: 105 – down 15%
Breast augmentation: Static ENDS The BAAPS (www.baaps.org.uk), based at the Royal College of Surgeons, is a notforprofit organisation, established for the advancement of education and practice of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery for public benefit. Members undergo thorough background screening before they can join. Information about specific procedures and surgeons’ contact details can be found on the web site, or by contacting their advice line at 020 7405 2234. Further materials can be posted to members of the public seeking specialised information. BAAPS is also on Twitter:www.twitter.com/BAAPSMedia and Facebook: www.facebook.com/BritishAssociationofAestheticPlasticSurgeons For all media enquiries, please contact Nikki Milovanovic on 020 7549 2863 (outofhours 07973 147 388) or email nmilovanovic@wavelengthgoup.com
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13.5. BAAPS ARTICLE: SUPER CUTS ‘Daddy Makeover’ and Celeb Confessions: Cosmetic Surgery Procedures Soar in Britain
SUPER CUTS ‘Daddy Makeovers’ and Celeb Confessions: Cosmetic Surgery Procedures Soar in Britain SUPER CUTS ‘Daddy Makeovers’ and Celeb Confessions: Cosmetic Surgery Procedures Soar in Britain London – 8th February, 2016 – A record number of over 51,000 Britons underwent cosmetic surgery in 2015, demonstrating the public's love affair with surgical enhancement is far from over, despite any previous ‘blips’ as the economy reshaped itself. New data from the British Association of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons (www.baaps.org.uk); the only organisation solely dedicated to safety and education in cosmetic surgery, and which represents the vast majority of NHS-trained consultant plastic surgeons in private practice; today reveal that the number of cosmetic ops last year grew 13% overall since 2014 - with ALL procedures seeing an increase in demand. Surgeons say that with the new trend in A-list celebrities (such as Sharon Stone, Jamie Lee Curtis, Kelly Rowland, Jane Fonda and even Modern Family’s young starlet Ariel Winter) openly confessing to the odd nip or tuck, it’s possible that patients are feeling encouraged by their positive admissions and attractive results. These new attitudes could be one of the drivers for increased acceptance and de-stigmatising of aesthetic enhancement, 7 out of 10 of the most popular procedures seeing a double-digit increase. Women's cosmetic surgery rose 12.5% from 2014, and while breast augmentation continues to remain the most popular procedure for women (up 12% from 2014), reportedly the oversized ‘glamour model’ or artificial look once associated with implants has all but vanished, as surgeons note patients now opting for smaller sizes for a more natural, proportionate enhancement. The Association also posits the theory that some of the most dramatic rises - face/neck lifts (up 16%) and liposuction (up 20%) - could be linked to the fact that despite the vast array of non-surgical treatments hyped for these areas in recent years, the public are realising they have limited effect when compared to traditional surgery. Men, as well, underwent substantially more facial procedures, with face/necklifts climbing 14%, brow lifts (+15.5%), eyelid surgery(+15%), and rhinoplasty (+14%) all gaining huge popularity. Surgeons suggest that possibly, this may be nudged by the decline of last year’s bushy-bearded ‘hyper-masculine’ (or ‘lumbersexual’) aesthetic common amongst hipsters. The trends could mean that as men ditched the facial hair and oversized checked shirts they may have uncovered previously-hidden double chins or ‘dad bod’ belliesfuelling an epic rise of 20% in male liposuction and a 13% jump in ‘man boob’ reductions. Although men still account for just 9% of the total number of cosmetic surgery operations in the UK, their numbers have nearly doubled over the past decade (from 2,440 procedures in 2005 to 4,614 in 2015). According to consultant plastic surgeon and former BAAPS President Rajiv Grover, who collated the audit data; “The 2015 BAAPS audit has shown that demand for cosmetic surgery continues to increase following the quieter period in 2014 which mirrored the British economy. The double digit rise in surgical procedures suggests that the public are choosing to spend on treatments with a proven track record such as facelifts and liposuction which remain as the gold standard for facial rejuvenation and body contouring. The plethora of new non-invasive
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methods for skin tightening and cellulite that are here today and gone tomorrow, often appear too good to be true and fail to make the cut.”
“Perhaps the decline of the ‘hyper-masculine’ look fashionable last year which has given way to a sharper, more slimline shape has influenced men – and it certainly appears both genders seem encouraged by a new openness in glamorous celebrities admitting they have had ‘a little surgical help’ to enhance their looks. There is a danger however that this presents the image of cosmetic surgery as a commodity, so the public must always be warned that an operation is not something that can simply be returned to the shop if you don’t like it.” Consultant plastic surgeon and BAAPS President Michael Cadier adds; “There’s no doubt that we are seeing an increase in demand for cosmetic surgery from both men and women. Whether this is inspired by celebrity culture and a recognition that the results of modern aesthetic procedures in the right hands can be subtle, natural-looking and attractive, what is most important is for patients to remember that surgery is on the whole life-changing and irreversible – far from a trivial ‘status symbol’ beauty treatment. The decision to undergo surgery must be well thought-out, with managed expectations, understanding the risks through fully informed consent and; most importantly; choosing the right specialist provider who is properly trained and accredited.” The figures in full: MEN & WOMEN COMBINED The top surgical procedures for men & women in 2015 (total 51,140. A rise of 12.6% from 2014) In order of popularity: • Breast augmentation: 9,652 – up 12% from last year • Blepharoplasty (eyelid surgery): 8,689 – up 12% • Face/Neck Lift: 7,419 – up 16% • Breast Reduction: 6,246 – up 13% • Liposuction: 5,551 – up 20% • Rhinoplasty: 4,205 – up 14% • Fat Transfer: 3,261 – up 3% • Abdominoplasty: 2,933 – up 8% • Browlift: 2,110 – up 7% • Otoplasty (ear correction): 1,074 – up 14% WOMEN ONLY The top surgical procedures for women in 2015 (46,526 total. A rise of 12.5% from 2014) Women had 91% of all cosmetic procedures in 2015.
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In order of popularity: • Breast augmentation: 9,642 – up 12% from last year • Blepharoplasty (eyelid surgery): 7,713 – up 12% • Face/Neck Lift: 7,047 – up 16% • Breast Reduction: 5,450 – up 13% • Liposuction: 4,965 – up 20% • Rhinoplasty: 3,393 – up 14% • Fat Transfer: 3,001 – up 3% • Abdominoplasty: 2,816 – up 8% • Browlift: 1,946 – up 6% • Otoplasty (ear correction): 553 – up 15% MEN ONLY The top surgical procedures for men in 2015 (4,614 total. A rise of 13.5% from 2014) Men had 9% of all cosmetic procedures in 2015. In order of popularity: • Blepharoplasty (eyelid surgery): 976 – up 15% • Rhinoplasty: 812 – up 14% • Breast Reduction: 796 – up 13% • Liposuction: 586 – up 20% • Otoplasty (ear correction): 521 – up 13% • Face/Neck Lift: 372 – up 14% • Fat Transfer 260 – up 8% • Brow lifts 164 – up 15.5% • Abdominoplasty: 117 – up 11% • Breast augmentation: 10 – Static ENDS
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The BAAPS (www.baaps.org.uk), based at the Royal College of Surgeons, is a not-for-profit organisation, established for the advancement of education and practice of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery for public benefit. Members undergo thorough background screening before they can join. Information about specific procedures and surgeons’ contact details can be found on the web site, or by contacting their advice line at 020 7405 2234. Further materials can be posted to members of the public seeking specialised information. BAAPS is also on Twitter: www.twitter.com/BAAPSMedia and Facebook: www.facebook.com/BritishAssociationofAestheticPlasticSurgeons For all media enquiries, please contact Nikki Milovanovic on 020 7549 2863 or email nmilovanovic@wavelengthgoup.com and for out-of-hours support contact Tingy Simoes on 07973 147 388 or tsimoes@wavelengthgroup.com
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14. BIBLIOGRAPHY:
BOOKS:
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INTERVIEWS:
Brenner, M. (2011) Marketing IS business: The wisdom of Peter Drucker. Available at: https://marketinginsidergroup. CBI Employee (2016) ‘How Will Brexit Affect the Lingerie com/strategy/marketing-is-business-the-wisdom-ofpeter-drucker/ (Accessed: 3 November 2016). Industry’. Interview with Jane Dungate for November.
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FabFoundations (2011) Think small: The growing petite lingerie market - Fab Foundations®: Celebrating customer culture. Available at: http://www.fabfoundations. com/think-small-the-growing-petite-lingerie-market/ (Accessed: 4 October 2016).
Business Dictionary (no date) ‘Read the full definition’, in Available at: http://www.businessdictionary.com/ Fabry, M. (2015) Who was the ‘Victoria’ in Victoria’s secret? definition/microenvironment.html (Accessed: 3 Available at: http://time.com/4140242/victorias-secretNovember 2016b). fashion-show-history/ (Accessed: 3 November 2016). Chiarelli, N. (2008) Advertising best practice, evidence and insights. Available at: http://www.warc.com/Content/ ContentViewer.aspx?MasterContentRef=9deeeaec7451-471d-a0da-8b894d96a7e3 (Accessed: 26 October 2016).
Fashion Textile Association (2012) Welcome - let’s make it here. Available at: http://www.letsmakeithere.org/ (Accessed: 8 November 2016).
DeMers, J. (2014) The top 10 benefits of social media marketing. Available at: http://www.forbes.com/sites/ jaysondemers/2014/08/11/the-top-10-benefits-ofsocial-media-marketing/#7a605e0b2a4d (Accessed: 8 November 2016).
Jones, A. (2016) Gail Porter reveals depression forced her to have op that reduced her 28JJ breasts to 28C. Available at: https://www.thesun.co.uk/living/1751550/gail-porterreveals-depression-forced-her-to-have-op-that-reducedher-28jj-breasts-to-28c/ (Accessed: 12 October 2016).
Gleeson, A. (1996) Have you Optimised your business model? Available at: http://articles.bplans.co.uk/ Conlon, S. (2016) Swimwear out, new CEO in at Victoria’s starting-a-business/have-you-optimised-your-businesssecret. Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/article/ model/1037 (Accessed: 10 November 2016). victorias-secret-hires-spanx-ceo-jan-singer (Accessed: 3 November 2016). House, L. (2016) Map reveals the average cup size of women around the world. Available at: http://www.dailymail. Cosmo Team, Jones, K., Lewis, A., Jowett, V. and Pritchard, co.uk/femail/article-3746109/Target-Map-releasesE.-L. (2010) 25 facts about boobs. Available at: http:// map-average-breast-sizes-world.html (Accessed: 10 www.cosmopolitan.co.uk/more/g1690/25-facts-about- November 2016). boobs-100931/?slide=1 (Accessed: 4 October 2016). INTERVIEW: Boux avenue founder Theo Paphitis (2011) Dale, E. (2014) Small bust lingerie market. Available at: Available at: http://www.lingerieinsight.com/interviewhttp://thelingeriejournal.com/retail-advice-small-bust- boux-avenue-founder-theo-paphitis/ (Accessed: 2 lingerie-market/ (Accessed: 4 October 2016). November 2016).
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ONLINE ARTICLES (CNTD): Kissane, B. (2016) Lingerie + Brexit: Heeding Lessons From the Oxford (2016c) ‘Consumer’, in Oxford Dictionary. Recession. Available at: http://www.portal.euromonitor. Available at: https://en.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/ com/portal/analysis/tab (Accessed: 3 November 2016). consumer (Accessed: 26 October 2016). Lily James Online (2013) Available at: http://lily-james. Oxford (2016d) ‘Marketing’, in Oxford Dictionary com/ (Accessed: 1 November 2016). Available at: https://en.oxforddictionaries.com/ definition/marketing (Accessed: 10 November 2016). Lily succeeds Kate and Cara at Burberry (2016) Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/lily-james-for-my- Pearcey, N. (no date) Nancy Pearcey quote. Available at: burberry (Accessed: 1 November 2016). http://www.azquotes.com/quote/227691 (Accessed: 2 November 2016). Lister, J. (no date) 75 quotes to inspire marketing greatness. Available at: https://business.linkedin.com/marketing- PESTLE Analysis (2014) What is PEST analysis and why it’s solutions/blog/7/75-quotes-to-inspire-marketing- useful. Available at: http://pestleanalysis.com/what-isgreatness (Accessed: 10 November 2016). pest-analysis/ (Accessed: 3 November 2016). Magretta, J. (2002) Why business models matter. Available PESTLE Analysis (2016) Benefits of SWOT analysis. at: https://hbr.org/2002/05/why-business-models- Available at: http://pestleanalysis.com/benefits-of-swotmatter (Accessed: 10 November 2016). analysis/ (Accessed: 3 November 2016). Marks & Spencer Plc (no date) Discover our story with our free permanent exhibition. Available at: https:// marksintime.marksandspencer.com/home (Accessed: 3 November 2016a).
Rainey, S. (2015) Why our breasts are ballooning: Over the past 100 years, the average bust size of UK women has ballooned from a B-cup to a DD. Available at: http://www. dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-3343324/Why-breastsballooning-past-100-years-average-bust-size-UKMarks & Spencer Plc (no date) Home. Available at: women-ballooned-B-cup-DD.html (Accessed: 4 October http://corporate.marksandspencer.com/ (Accessed: 3 2016). November 2016b). Retail (2015) Available at: http://www.smh.com.au/ Mumsnet discussion (no date) Available at: http://www. business/retail/victorias-secret-calvin-klein-suppliermumsnet.com/Talk/style_and_beauty/2412246-26-bras becomes-billionaire-20151201-glczfi.html (Accessed: 8 (Accessed: 4 October 2016). November 2016). Oxford (2016a) ‘Brand’, in Oxford Dictionary. Available Rogers, S. (2010) ‘UK plastic surgery statistics: Breasts up, at: https://en.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/brand stomachs in’, The Guardian, 2 February. Available at: (Accessed: 18 October 2016). https://www.theguardian.com/news/datablog/2012/ jan/30/plastic-surgery-statistics-uk (Accessed: 6 Oxford (2016b) ‘Competitor’, in Oxford Dictionary. October 2016). Available at: https://en.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/ competitor (Accessed: 1 November 2016).
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ONLINE ARTICLES (CNTD):
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Ruff, L. (2013) 50 inspiring quotes from 50 top social media power Influencers. Available at: https://blog.kissmetrics. com/50-social-media-influencers/ (Accessed: 9 November 2016).
Lancaster-Smith, M. (2016) SUPER CUTS ‘daddy Makeovers’ and Celeb confessions: Cosmetic surgery procedures soar in Britain. Available at: http://baaps.org. uk/about-us/press-releases/2202-super-cuts-daddymakeovers-and-celeb-confessions-cosmetic-surgerySnyder, B. (2014) 7 surprising facts about the Victoria’s secret procedures-soar-in-britain (Accessed: 6 October 2016). business. Available at: http://fortune.com/2014/12/02/7surprising-facts-about-the-victorias-secret-business/ Manning, L. (2015) Tweak not tuck. Available at: http:// (Accessed: 3 November 2016). baaps.org.uk/about-us/press-releases/2039-autogenerate-from-title (Accessed: 5 October 2016). The breasts - the ultimate symbol of femininity (no date) Available at: http://plastic-surgery.klinik-am-ring.com/ Mintel Academic (2016) Underwear - UK - June 2016. index.php/en/Brust/die-brust-zeichen-der-weiblichkeit. Available at: http://academic.mintel.com.arts.idm.oclc. html (Accessed: 12 October 2016). org/display/748658/ (Accessed: 3 November 2016). Victoria’s Secret (no date) Available at: https://www. Verdict Retail (2015a) Available at: http://intelligence. victoriassecret.com/careers (Accessed: 3 November verdictretail.com/Analysis/details/uk-underwear2016). specialists-expose-weakness-by-not-focusing-onyounger-shoppers-vkc-views-4776087 (Accessed: 3 What is the ideal size in breasts? (2014) Available at: http:// November 2016). howtomakeyourboobsgrowbigger.com/what-is-theideal-size-in-breasts/ (Accessed: 12 October 2016). Verdict Retail (2015b) Available at: http://intelligence. verdictretail.com/Analysis/FullReport/underwear-in-theuk (Accessed: 3 November 2016).
JOURNALS:
TV SHOWS:
Veale, D. (2004) ‘Body dysmorphic disorder’, Celebrity Botched Up Bodies (2016) Channel 5. Postgraduate Medical Journal, 80(940), pp. 67–71.
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15. IMAGE BIBLIOGRAPHY: KEY COMPETITORS LOGOS: ASOS - http://www.asos.com/women/discover/ homepage/
ASPIRATIONAL COMPETITORS LOGOS:
Agent Provocateur - http://www.agentprovocateur.com/ gb_en
Boux Avenue - http://www.bouxavenue.com/
Ann Summers - http://www.annsummers.com/
Bravissimo - http://www.bravissimo.com/
Bluebella - https://www.bluebella.com/
Debenhams - http://www.debenhams.com/
Bordelle - http://www.bordelle.co.uk/
Figleaves - http://www.figleaves.com/uk/
Myla - http://www.myla.com/
John Lewis - http://www.johnlewis.com/
Victoriaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Secret - https://www.victoriassecret.com/
M&S - http://www.marksandspencer.com/
SOCIAL MEDIA LOGOS: Facebook - http://www.freepik.com/free-icon/facebooklogo_736921.htm Twitter - http://www.iconsdb.com/black-icons/twittericon.html Instagram - http://www.sketchappsources.com/freesource/1107-instagram-logo-sketch-freebie-resource. html YouTube - https://www.youtube.com/yt/brand/ downloads.html Tumblr - http://www.iconsdb.com/black-icons/tumblr-2icon.html
Pinterest - https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/ originals/26/82/2a/26822ac70385b45405d003 5b3c9521da.png Google+ - http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YLXWJ93sIc0/ VRIMpOlzX9I/AAAAAAAAG9w/rBJpZrwtTIY/s1600/ iconmonstr-googleplus-4-icon_zpscfd3b4ad.png Blog B - http://www.freepik.com/free-icon/b-blacksquare_694951.htm LinkedIn - http://www.iconsdb.com/black-icons/linkedin3-icon.html Weibo - http://www.freepik.com/free-icon/weibowebsite-logo_744213.htm
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PAGES 16-17:
PAGES 20-21:
Fig 1. Youthful woman - http://www.thisisglamorous. com/2014/10/32-images-autumn-style-inspirationpart-4/page/5/#gallery
Fig 1. Professional man - http://www. styleanddesigngallery.com/2016/01/20-great-styles-ofmen-in-overcoat.html
Fig 2. Woman on a boat at sea - https://uk.pinterest. com/pin/535154368205824959/
Fig 2. Office - http://www.myparadissi.com/ search/label/decor?updated-max=2016-0502T20:37:00%2B03:00&max-results=5&start=15&bydate=false
Fig 3. Organised desk - https://uk.pinterest.com/ pin/535154368205824981/ Fig 4. Professional woman street style - https:// uk.pinterest.com/pin/535154368205825021/
Fig 3. Lingerie as a gift - http://www.estylingerie.com/ blog/wp-content/uploads/sites/3041/2015/12/Lingeriein-gift-box-600x401.jpg
Fig 5. Woman doing yoga on the beach - https:// uk.pinterest.com/pin/535154368202270342/
Fig 4. Healthy man - https://www.collegetimes.com/life/ woman-porn-the-jamie-dornan-edition-109983
Fig 6. Dinner and drinks with friends - http://www. helencathcart.com/lifestyle/#_a5y_p=4213989
Fig 5. Romantic date - https://uk.pinterest.com/ pin/535154368205827173/
PAGES 18-19:
PAGES 22-23:
Fig 2. Lily James for Glamour Magazine (2015) â&#x20AC;&#x201C; http:// www.glamour.com/images/entertainment/2015/02/lilyjames-trunk-archive-main.jpg
Fig 1. Playful girl - http://www.refinery29. com/2013/08/51148/selena-gomez-id-cover
Fig 3. Lily James for Burberry (2016) - http:// lily-james.com/photos/displayimage. php?album=lastup&cat=70&pid=22067#top_display_ media
Fig 2. Girls having a sleepover - http://www.parents. com/fun/parties/ideas/super-spa-party/#page=4 Fig 3. Teenage girlâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bedroom - http://kaarlaa88.tumblr. com/post/137868414266 Fig 4. Study supplies - http://skydiveintoreality.tumblr. com/post/119111062195/favs Fig 5. Teenage fashion - https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/ ASO7M9lAkGrRZColFnqP_mrAcZS_aVBH939eo_ aNkURwQodR-NE3YLk/ Fig 6. Teenage girl - http://ffffound.com/
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Fig 1. Tabitha Lingerie Set (Boux Avenue) - http://www. bouxavenue.com/tabitha-balconette-bra-claret/10141240cl
Fig 3. COLLECTION by John Lewis Evie Intense Lingerie Set (John Lewis) - http://www.johnlewis.com/collectionby-john-lewis-evie-intense-balcony-bra-black-red/ p3067486
Fig 2. Latoya Lace Body (Boux Avenue) - http://www. bouxavenue.com/latoya-lace-body-black/101428-01bl
Fig 4. COLLECTION by John Lewis Valentina Luxe Sparkle Lingerie Set (John Lewis) - http://www.johnlewis. com/collection-by-john-lewis-valentina-luxe-sparkleplunge-bra-black/p3067444
PAGE 26: Fig 1. Rosie for Autograph - Silk and Lace Lingerie Set (M&S) - http://www.marksandspencer.com/silk-andlace-lingerie-set Fig 2. Rosie for Autograph - Historical Romance Embroidered Set with Bodice (M&S) - http://www. marksandspencer.com/historical-romance-embroideredset-with-bodice-balcony-a-d Fig 3. Thea High Neck Lace & Mesh Body (ASOS) http://www.asos.com/asos/asos-thea-high-neck-lacemesh-body/ Fig 4. Lara Set (ASOS) - http://www.asos.com/asoslara-set-in-black/
PAGE 28: Fig 1. B by Ted Baker Black Floral Lace Lingerie Set (Debenhams) http://www.debenhams.com/webapp/ wcs/stores/servlet/prod_10701_10001_161010421060_-1 Fig 2. Reger by Janet Reger Light Pink and Black Lace Lingerie Set (Debenhams) - http://www. debenhams.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ prod_10701_10001_161010764786_-1
PAGE 30: Fig 1. Refined Glamour Lingerie Set by Wonderbra (Bravissimo) - http://www.bravissimo.com/products/ lingerie/sensational-sets/refined-glamour-bra/black/ wb106blk/?show=all&level=1 Fig 2. Idina Lingerie Set by Panache (Bravissimo) - http:// www.bravissimo.com/products/lingerie/sensational-sets/ idina-moulded-bra/black/pn118blk/?show=all&level=1 Fig 3. Grace Silk Lingerie Set (Figleaves) - http://www. figleaves.com/uk/figleaves-grace-silk-balconette-brab-g/FIG-007623.html Fig 4. Temptation and Lace Lingerie Set (Figleaves) - http://www.figleaves.com/uk/figleaves-temptationfishnet-and-lace-underwired-bra-b-g/FIG-007616.html
PAGE 32: Fig 1. Lace Plunge Teddy (Victoriaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Secret) - https:// www.victoriassecret.com/lingerie/shop-all-lingerie/longsleeve-plunge-teddy-beautiful-by-victorias-secret?Produ ctID=312574&CatalogueType=OLS
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Fig 2. BODY BY VICTORIA Crochet Lingerie Set (Victoriaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Secret) - https://www.victoriassecret.com/ bras/shop-all-bras/crochet-lace-high-neck-bralettebody-by-victoria?ProductID=294602&CatalogueType =OLS
Fig 3. Angela Girdle Dress (Bordelle) - http://shop. bordelle.co.uk/collections/signature-line/products/ angela_black Fig 4. Soft Mesh Caberet Lingerie Set (Bordelle) - http:// shop.bordelle.co.uk/collections/signature-line/products/ copy-of-cabaret-open-bra
PAGE 34: Fig 1. Karly Lingerie Set (Ann Summers) - http://www. annsummers.com/lingerie/lingerie-shop-by-category/ lingerie-shop-by-category-bras/karly-longlineunderwired-bra/KARLY-LONGLINE-UNDERWIREDBRA.html Fig 2.Audrina Lingerie Set (Ann Summers) - http://www. annsummers.com/lingerie/lingerie-shop-by-category/ lingerie-shop-by-category-bras/audrina-plunge-bra/ AUDRINA-PLUNGE-BRA.html Fig 3. Emerson Lingerie Set (Bluebella) - https://www. bluebella.com/collections/lingerie/products/emersonsuspender Fig 4. Esme Lingerie Set (Bluebella) - https://www. bluebella.com/collections/lingerie/products/esme-bra
PAGE 36: Fig 1. Gina Lingerie Set (Agent Provocateur) - http:// www.agentprovocateur.com/gb_en/gina-thong-blackand-gold Fig 2. Joan Lingerie Set (Agent Provocateur) - http:// www.agentprovocateur.com/gb_en/joan-bra-nude-andblack
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PAGE 38: Fig 1. Night Mist Embroidery Lingerie Set (Myla) - http:// www.myla.com/product/Lingerie-By-Product-AllLingerie/Non-Padded-Plunge/8760 Fig 2. Nicole Lingerie Set (Myla) - http://www.myla. com/product/Lingerie-By-Product-All-Lingerie/NicoleSuspender/199
PAGE 40: Fig 1. Bridal gift - http://www.bouxavenue.com/ docpages.aspx?pagename=bridetobe Fig 2. Fragrance sprays, perfumes, candles, reed diffusers and lotions - http://www.bouxavenue.com/3-for-2-gifts Fig 3. Lucy Watson for Boux Avenue - http://www. bouxavenue.com/docpages.aspx?pagename=Lucywat2 Fig 4. Lingerie set and body - https://s-mediacache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/04/d8/ a6/04d8a6f81c0d21028484f140ac4abf40.png
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Fig 1. Rosie for Autograph Historical Romance Embroidered Set with Bodice Balcony - http://www. marksandspencer.com/historical-romance-embroideredset-with-bodice-balcony-a-d/
Fig 1. Iron balustrade - http://www.frankidurbin.com/ blog/2014/9/25/flight-of-fancy-the-paris-apartment
Fig 2. Limited Collection Artisan Lace High Apex Plunge Padded Bra and Artisan Lace Brazilian Knickers - http:// www.marksandspencer.com/evergreen-high-apexplunge-padded-bra-a-e/
Fig 2. Man shrouded in lace - http:// camillafrancesprintsposts.tumblr.com/ post/128191668003/picslistcom Fig 3. Woman with lace blindfold - http://www. theyallhateus.com/pretty-cool/
Fig 3. Rosie for Autograph Silk and Lace Nude Body http://www.marksandspencer.com/floral-lace-body/
Fig 4. Woman with lace mask - http://victoriously.tumblr. com/post/54855269240
Fig 4. Autograph Long Sleeve Nightdress with Cashmere - http://www.marksandspencer.com/long-sweaternightdress-with-cashmere/
Fig 5. Woman with floral pattern on face - https:// uk.pinterest.com/pin/535154368205964040/
PAGE 44: Fig 1. The Cropped Bustier Uplift - https://www. victoriassecret.com/bras/just-in-beautiful-by-victoriassecret/the-cropped-bustier-uplift-beautiful-by-victoriassecret?ProductID=315443&CatalogueType=OLS Fig 2. Strappy Plunge Teddy - https://www. victoriassecret.com/bras/just-in-beautiful-by-victoriassecret/strappy-plunge-teddy-beautiful-by-victorias-secre t?ProductID=312520&CatalogueType=OLS Fig 3. Dream Girl - Maria Borges - London Fashion Show 2014 - http://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/victoriassecret-show-2014 Fig 4. Exotic Traveller - Adriana Lima and Alessandra Ambrosio - London Fashion Show 2014 - http://www. vogue.co.uk/gallery/victorias-secret-show-2014
Fig 6. Woman in a boudoir - http://www.lingerietalk. com/2013/01/02/lingerie-photography/2012-in-reviewthe-years-best-lingerie-fashion-editorials-nsfw.html?utm_ source=feedburner&utm_medium=email&utm_ campaign=Feed:+LingerieTalk+(Lingerie+Talk)
PAGES 74-75: Figs 1-10 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; WGSN
PAGES 78-79 Fig 8. Chiffon - https://www.fabric.com/buy/uf-740/ nylon-chiffon-tricot-light-pink?cm_vc=756b1813-cbc143b3-84bd-29889bf8fb7b Figs 1-9 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; WGSN
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