Jane Dungate DUN14416680 Technical File
CONTENTS 1. Design Specifications 3 1.1. Darted Plunge Bra 3 1.2. Skimpy Briefs 5 1.3. Halterneck Plunge Bra 7 1.4. Thong 9 1.5. Balcony Bra 11 1.6. Satin Thong 13 1.7. Halterneck Body 15 2. Garment Assembly 17 2.1. Darted Plunge Bra 17 2.2. Skimpy Briefs 22 3. Lay Plan 27 3.1. Darted Plunge Bra 27 3.2. Skimpy Briefs 29 4. Measurement Specifications 31 4.1. Darted Plunge Bra 31 4.2. Skimpy Briefs 32 5. 2D & 3D Experimentation 5.1. Toiling Darted Plunge Bra 35 5.2. Toiling Skimpy Briefs 39 5.3. Toiling Halterneck Plunge Bra 43 5.4. Toiling Thong & Satin Thong 47
5.5. Toiling Balcony Bra 49 5.6. Toilng Halterneck Body 53 6. Materials Research 55 7. Critical Path 57 8. Product Evaluations 59 8.1. Look One 59 8.2. Look Two 61 8.3. Look Three 63 8.4. Look Four 65 9. Photo of Garments on Stand 67 9.1. Look One 67 9.2. Look Two 69 9.3. Look Three 71 9.4. Look Four 73 9.5. Full Collection 75 10. Costings 77 10.1. Darted Plunge Bra 77 10.2. Skimpy Briefs 79 11. Grade Plans 81 11.1. Darted Plunge Bra 81 11.2. Skimpy Briefs 83 1
1. DESIGN SPECIFICATIONS 1.1. DARTED PLUNGE BRA
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3
1.2. SKIMPY BRIEFS
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5
1.3. Halterneck Plunge Bra
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7
1.4. Thong
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1.5. Balcony Bra
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1.6. Satin Thong
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1.7. Halterneck Body
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2. ORDER OF ASSEMBLY 2.1. DARTED PLUNGE BRA
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CUP DARTS (OUTER AND LINING): R/S of outer together stitch along dart - make sure to make a pair of cups. 3 thread overlock along dart then press towards underarm. Edge stitch dart towards underarm. Repeat for lining.
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3
4
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CUP LINING TO OUTER: W/S together - edge stitch outer to lining. Repeat for other cup.
MACHINE
STITCH INFO
Lockstitch
L - 2.5 S/A - 0.5cm S/A - 0.5cm L - 2.5 S/A - 0.2cm
3 thread overlock Lockstitch
Lockstitch
L - 2.5 S/A - 0.2cm
BRIDGE: Bag out bridge - R/S of nylon and powernet together stitch along the top.
Lockstitch
Turn bridge through and edge stitch sides.
Lockstitch
Stitch foldover elastic onto top and bottom of bridge.
1 step zig zag
L - 2.5 S/A - 0.5cm L - 2.5 S/A - 0.2cm L - 2.5 W - 3.1
SIDE WING: W/S together - edge stitch outer to lining. Repeat for other side.
Lockstitch
L - 2.5 S/A - 0.2cm
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5
6
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10
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MACHINE
STITCH INFO
SIDE WING TO WING: R/S together and stitch along seam.
Lockstitch
L - 2.5 S/A - 0.5cm
Press towards underarm. Edge stitch both sides of nylon tape over seam making sure both lines of stitching are on side wing.
Lockstitch
L - 2.5
CB OF WING: At CB of wing, fold in 0.5cm to W/S and stitch to secure. Add nylon tape on top to stop stretching.
Lockstitch
Cut 2x4.3cm of 10mm strapping and edge stitch both sides of strapping onto R/S of wing along CB.
Lockstitch
L - 2.5 S/A - 0.2cm L - 2.5
ELASTICATE WING: Stitch foldover elastic onto bottom of wing leaving 4cm overhang at the CB. Repeat for other side.
1 step zig zag
L - 2.5 W - 3.1
ATTACH BRIDGE TO CUPS: W/S together stitch bridge to CF of cup. Repeat for other cup.
Lockstitch
L - 2.5 S/A - 0.5cm
ATTACH WINGS TO CUPS: W/S together stitch wing to wire seam of cup. Repeat for other side.
Lockstitch
L - 2.5 S/A - 0.5cm
ELASTICATE UNDERARM AND TOP OF WING: Stitch foldover elastic onto top and underarm of bra leaving 4cm overhang at the CB and 6cm at the apex. Repeat for other side.
1 step zig zag
L - 2.5 W - 3.1
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11
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MACHINE
STITCH INFO
Insert wires and secure ends.
Twin needle with wire casing Bartack
Size - 70
ATTACH RINGS AT APEX: Cut 2x17cm of 10mm strapping and attach to CF of cups. Fold 1cm of strap over ring and secure. Fold 1cm of underarm elastic over ring and secure
Bartack Bartack Bartack
Size - 70 Size - 70 Size - 71
SHOULDER STRAPS: Cut 2x64cm of 10mm strapping. Fold 1cm of strap over ring at apex and secure. Thread strap through 8mm slider and secure leaving 5cm adjustment. Secure to wing at gate back.
Bartack Bartack Bartack
Size - 70 Size - 70 Size - 70
Hand stitch
L - 2.5 S/A - 0.2cm
WIRE CASING: Attach wire casing to W/S of wire seam.
HOOK AND EYES: Attach hooks to RH side of wing at CB. Attach eyes LH side of wing at CB. ATTACH BOW AND CHARMS: Hand stitch charms and bow to CF of bridge.
Hand stitch
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2.2. SKIMPY BRIEFS
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2
3
4
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MACHINE
STITCH INFO
CF LACE: R/S of lace together and stitch along CF seam.
Lockstitch
3 thread overlock seam then press to side. Edge stitch seam to side.
3 thread overlock Lockstitch
L - 2.5 S/A - 0.5cm S/A - 0.5cm L - 2.5 S/A - 0.2cm
CF LACE TO FRONT: W/S of lace to R/S of powernet - edge stitch legs and gusset seam
Lockstitch
L - 2.5 S/A - 0.2cm
CB LACE: Edge stitch CB lace to CB of back.
Lockstitch
Stitch foldover elastic along back swoop.
1 step zig zag
L - 2.5 S/A - 0.2cm L - 2.5 W - 3.1
CB SEAM: R/S together stitch along CB of brief together.
Lockstitch
3 thread overlock seam then press to one side.
3 thread overlock
L - 2.5 S/A - 0.5cm
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MACHINE 5
6
7
GUSSET: 3 thread overlock front of gusset lining.
3 thread overlock
Bag out gusset - R/S of front to R/S of back and W/S of back to R/S of lining and stitch along back gusset seam.
Lockstitch
3 thread overlock back gusset seam. Put W/S of gusset lining to W/S of front and edge stitch legs.
3 thread overlock Lockstitch
ELASTICATE LEGS: Stitch foldover elastic onto leg. Repeat for other side
Lockstitch
L - 2.5 S/A - 0.2cm
Lockstitch
L - 2.5 S/A - 0.5cm
SIDE SEAMS: R/S together stitch along side seam. 3 thread overlock then press towards back of brief. Repeat for other side.
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9
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STITCH INFO
L - 2.5 S/A - 0.5cm L - 2.5 S/A - 0.2cm
3 thread overlock
ELASTICATE WAIST: Stitch foldover elastic onto waist leaving 7cm overhang on RH side of CB and 0.5cm overhang on LH side of CB.
1 step zig zag
Secure elastic at LH of CB.
Lockstitch
ATTACH BOW, CHARMS AND FLOWER: Hand stitch bow and charms to CF of brief 2.5cm down from waist band. Hand stitch flower to CB of brief.
Hand stitch Hand stitch
L - 2.5 W - 3.1 L -2.5 S/A - 0.5cm
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3. LAY PLAN 3.1. DARTED PLUNGE BRA STRETCH LACE
NYLON
Name:JE004-LACE / Length 4,379 m / Width 0,300 m /Eff 37,22 % /Date08/05/17
Name:JE004-NYLON/ Length0,639 m/ Width1,400 m/Eff65,70 %/Date08/05/17
POWERNET
Name:JE004-POWERNET/ Length0,250 m/ Width1,400 m/Eff62,29 %/Date08/05/17 26
27
3.2. SKIMPY BRIEFS STRETCH LACE
COTTON INTERLOCK
POWERNET Name: JE003-LACE / Length2,335 m / Width0,300 m /Eff37,40 % /Date08/05/17
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Name:JE003-POWERNET/ Length1,780 m/ Width1,400 m/Eff49,69 %/Date08/05/17
Name:JE003-INTERLOCK/ Length0,123 m/ Width1,400 m/Eff66,27 %/Date08/05/17
Name:JE003-POWERNET/ Length1,780 m/ Width1,400 m/Eff49,69 %/Date08/05/17
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4. MEASUREMENT SPECIFICATIONS 4.1. DARTED PLUNGE BRA
Style No: JE004 COMPONENT 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
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PATTERN
Underbust Seam Top Cup Dart Top of Bridge Bottom of Bridge Overbust Elastic Strap Underarm Elastic (-38%) Top of Side Wing (-32%) Bottom of Side Wing (-32%) Top of Wing (-32%) Bottom of Wing (-32%) Hook and Eye N/A
Season: AW 17/18 FINISH
20.8 20.8 13.8 13.8 8 8 1 1 4.5 4.5 N/A 14.8 15.5 13 (inc extra) 6.4 4.4 8.4 5.7 7.4 5 7.9 5.3 2.9
Range: Limited Collection TOLERANCE + 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.2 0.2 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.2 0.2 0.5 0.5 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
Description: Darted Plunge Bra COMPONENT
13 Shoulder Strap 14 Top Wing + Underarm (-24%) 15 Bottom of Full Wing (-24%)
PATTERN FINISH
TOLERANCE + N/A 35.5 0.5 0.5 29.3 26 (inc extra) 0.5 0.5 16.3 16 (inc extra) 0.5 0.5
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4.2. SKIMPY BRIEFS
Style No: JE003 COMPONENT 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
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Front Waistband (-15%) Back Waistband (-7%) Front Leg (-9%) Back Leg (-15%) Front Lace Leg (-18%) Front Lace CF Seam (-10%) Back Scoop (-20%) CB Seam Gusset Seam Side Seams Back Scoop Join to Flower
Season: AW 17/18
Range: Limited Collection
Description: Skimpy Briefs
PATTERN
FINISH
40.4 26.4 36.2 24.5 18.1 20 7.1 16.4 11.6 4.7 2.8
34.5 29.7 (inc extra) 33 21 15 18 5.7 16.4 11.6 4.7 2.8
TOLERANCE + 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.2 0.2 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.2 0.2
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5. 2D & 3D EXPERIMENTATION 5.1. TOILING DARTED PLUNGE BRA To create the pattern for the Darted Plunge Bra, I traced off the block from the cupboard and altered it to match my style lines and seam allowances. I made toiles of the cups to make sure they fitted. Once they were correct I worked on the bridge and wing. As I was making a gate back, I had to make a few toiles to decide where I wanted the gate to start. In the end, I decided to go with having it where the shoulder straps were attached to the wing to keep a clean line. At the toile crit, I had to make minor adjustments to the cup (as shown in the photos on the next page). I also had to make sure to keep my bridge secure and straight whilst stitiching.
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5.2. TOILING SKIMPY BRIEFS To create the pattern for the Skimpy Briefs, I traced off the Skimpy Briefs block from the cupboard. As with the Darted Plunge Bra, I altered it to accommodate my style lines and seam allowances. When creating the CF lace pattern piece, I had to make it slightly thinner than the brief pattern across the CF as it was too big and kept gaping at the front. For the back scoop at the CB, I cut out a triangle from the CB seam of the back of the brief and shaped it to make a scoop. I didn’t need to make any more adjustments to the pattern after the toile crit.
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5.3. TOILING HALTERNECK PLUNGE BRA To create the pattern for the Halterneck Plunge Bra, I taped the stand with the style lines that I wanted to use. I then traced the lines onto fabric that I pinned onto the stand. For the bridge and wing pattern pieces, I used the pattern pieces I created for the Darted Plunge Bra as I was going to be using the same wire. At the toile crit, it was decided that I needed to added a dart to the CF cup and the side cup. I also needed to narrow the CF of the bridge along the bottom.
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5.4. TOILING THONG & SATIN THONG To create the pattern for the Thong, I traced off the Hipster Thong block from the cupboard. As before, I altered it for my style lines and seam allowances. To create the back scoop, I did the same as for the Skimpy Briefs and cut a triangle out of the back at CB seam and shaped to a smooth curve. For the CF lace, I used the same principles as for the Skimpy Brief by making it slightly narrower across the CF. I used the same front, back, gusset lining and back scoop lace pieces for the satin thong. I had to make a new CF lace pattern piece as the lace was in a different place.
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5.5. TOILING BALCONY BRA To create the cradle pattern for the Balcony Bra, I traced off the balcony wire that I was going to use and drew a pattern off of that. To create the foam cups, I taped style lines onto the stand and traced onto calico which I used to make the pieces. I then made toiles of the cups until they fit properly and fit my cradle pattern. To create the lace sling, I draped lace on the stand over the foam cup. Once I had created the shape I wanted, I traced this onto pattern paper.
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5.6. TOILING HALTERNECK BODY To create the body and cup patterns, I modelled on the stand and traced onto pattern paper. I used the back wing pattern I had made for the bras for the back of this body. Once I had the main pattern pieces, I used them to create my lace pieces.
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6. MATERIALS RESEARCH The fabrics I have used contain a large percentage of polyester and elastane to make them stretch. The garments also feature embellishments that are very delicate. Due to this, it is recommended that the garments should only be handwashed to preserve the stretch and quality of finish. Below is an example of the wash care labels that would be found in the garments.
Wash Care symbols found at: http://www.glamumous.co.uk/2013/01/a-guide-to-laundrysymbols-printable.html (Accessed: 15 May 2017)
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7. CRITICAL PATH
Sep 16 Oct 16 Nov 16 Dec 16 Jan 17
Feb 17 Mar 17 Apr 17 May 17
Research for report Write up report Print report Research trends, colour, shapes Initial designs Design development Toiling Production of final garments
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8. PRODUCT EVALUATIONS 8.1. LOOK ONE DARTED PLUNGE BRA
SKIMPY BRIEFS
I’m very happy with the overall finish of this garment and I can see that my sewing skills Again, I’m happy with the overall finish although I can see some bits that could have have definitely improved over the course of the past three years! been better for the elastic attachment. Ideally, I would have liked to be able to have used hook and eye fastenings that had gold At the front, where the charms and bow have been sewn on, I should have reinforced hooks and eyes on the black tape, however I couldn’t find these in the right size. behind with a small circle of nylon stabiliser to make sure that the embellishments don’t create a hole in the powernet and fall off. The sliders on the shoulder straps are slightly too small and it makes it quite difficult to tighten and fasten the straps. This is because the sliders are 8mm and the strap elastic The CF lace could have perhaps come up further on the front of the brief to give more is 10mm - again, I couldn’t find satin front, plush back black elastic in 8mm for the straps coverage at the front. so had to make do with what I could find. I made this garment by myself without any help from the technicians. The hand stitching on the hook and eye fasteners could have been a bit neater. Ideally I would have stitched them on with a machine, but it didn’t want to stitch properly when attaching them. I made this garment by myself without any help from the technicians.
Photography by Matthew Walker 58
Modelled by Doll Cat 59
8.2. LOOK TWO HALTERNECK PLUNGE BRA
THONG
I am mostly happy with the overall finish of this garment however I can see some areas This thong was the first final garment I made. I decided for my finals that I would attach the foldover elastic with 1 step zig zag instead of the coverstitch machine. that could have been done better. For the back swoop, I attached the elastic with 3 step zig zag because I forgot to change The bridge is a little bit wonky. This is because when I was attaching the wire casing, the stitch! I realised this after completing the garment when checking for loose threads. I started at the CF for one cup but then started at the underarm for the other which When I made the Satin Thong and Skimpy Briefs I made sure to check the machine before starting. resulted in the asymmetric finish. I did two rows of 1 step zig zag to attach the foldover elastic because I didn’t realise I The choker is a little tight. If I was to make this garment again, I would make the choker only needed one until after I had finished when I spoke to a fellow student. For the Satin bigger with extra gaps to insert the hook into so that the wearer could choose how tight Thong and Skimpy Briefs I used only one row of 1 step zig zag to attach the foldover elastic. to make it. Because I used two rows, the finish doesn’t look as high quality as when I used a single The gate back collapses slightly, even though I did reinforce it with strapping. Although row. this was enough for the Darted Plunge Bra and Balcony Bra, because the Halterneck Plunge Bra doesn’t have shoulder straps to help keep the wing flat. If I was to make this Again, the CF lace on this garment probably needed to come up higher on the front of the thong. garment again, I would add a little bit of boning to prevent the collapsing. As with the Darted Plunge Bra, the issues regarding the strap thickness and hook and I made this garment by myself without any help from the technicians. eye colours would have been different. I made this garment by myself without any help from the technicians.
Photography by Matthew Walker 60
Modelled by Doll Cat 61
8.3. LOOK THREE BALCONY BRA
SATIN THONG
I am happy with the outside finish of this bra but the inside could have been a lot better.
I am very happy with this thong. The overall finish looks very good and I am proud of the way it looks.
I struggled to attach the wire casing making sure that the seam allowance from the cups was trapped inside. I am not very accurate with the wire casing machine as it runs quite fast and I find it hard to control. I did try unpicking the wire casing and stitching it again however it was causing damage to the garment so I decided to leave it how it was as the outside looked okay. If I was to make this again, I would ask for the technicians help when attaching the wire casing.
One of the only issues I have with the construction of this garment is the 1 step zig zag attaching the CF front lace isn’t symmetrical when viewing it from the inside. If I was to make this garment again I would be more careful when stitching along the lace edge. The other is the lace at the CB doesn’t quite meet exactly at the CB seam. It also appears that when I was cutting the lace for those pieces I cut a straight edge when I should have let it taper off into the scallop.
This bra also has the issues regarding the thickness of the shoulder straps and the hook and eye colours. I made this garment by myself without any help from the technicians. I made this garment by myself without any help from the technicians.
Photography by Matthew Walker 62
Modelled by Doll Cat 63
8.4. LOOK FOUR HALTERNECK BODY The Halterneck Body is my favourite garment of my final collection and I think I made it very well. If I was to make this garment again, I would change the lace placement on the cups so that the edges of the lace met the ends of the wires. I’d also change the placement of the CF lace so that the edges of it met the overbust seam on the cups. I’d also make the CF lace on the crotch area come up higher again for more coverage. The choker is also a little tight on this garment, so again I would make it bigger with extra gaps for adjustment so the wear could choose how tight they wanted it. Because I made the body to fit the stand, when the model wore it, it was slightly too short in the body so she had to keep readjusting it to keep the wires in the correct place. However, when I wore the garment the wires were in the correct place. If I was to make this garment again, I’d make the garment slightly longer in the body to cover the difference in size between different people’s torsos. As the powernet stretches, it should still fit every body nicely. I made this garment by myself without any help from the technicians.
Photography by Matthew Walker 64
Modelled by Doll Cat 65
9. PHOTOS OF GARMENTS ON STAND 9.1. LOOK ONE
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9.2. LOOK TWO
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9.3. LOOK THREE
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9.4. LOOK FOUR
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9.5. FULL COLLECTION
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10. COSTINGS 10.1. DARTED PLUNGE BRA Style No: JE004
Season: AW 17/18
Range: Limited Collection
Description: Darted Plunge Bra
COSTINGS FOR DARTED PLUNGE BRA COMPONENT Stretch Lace Nylon Stabiliser Powernet Black Bow J Gold Charms E Gold Charms Gold Rings 23mm Gold Sliders 8mm Black Foldover Elastic 12mm Black Shoulder Elastic 10mm
SUPPLIER Encajes eBay eBay eBay Jewellery Box Jewellery Box Amazon.co.uk Macculloch & Wallis eBay eBay
COST PER ITEM COST PER 12 GARMENTS £20.00 £87.58 £4.00 £2.56 £5.99 £1.50 £0.50 £6.00 £3.46 £41.52 £3.46 £41.52 £0.20 £4.80 £0.65 £15.60 £1.25 £16.35 £3.00 £58.32 Total Cost £275.74 RRP Per Garment Margin
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£65.00 64.65%
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10.2. SKIMPY BRIEFS
Style No: JE003
Season: AW 17/18
Range: Limited Collection
Description: Skimpy Briefs
COSTINGS FOR SKIMPY BRIEFS COMPONENT Stretch Lace Cotton Interlock Powernet Black Bow J Gold Charms E Gold Charms Diamonté Round Button 15mm Black Foldover Elastic 14mm
SUPPLIER Encajes eBay eBay eBay Jewellery Box Jewellery Box GUR Sewing Machines eBay
COST PER ITEM COST PER 12 GARMENTS £20.00 £46.60 £3.99 £0.48 £5.99 £10.66 £0.50 £6.00 £3.46 £41.52 £3.46 £41.52 £2.33 £27.96 £1.25 £26.10 Total Cost £200.84 RRP Per Garment Margin
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£55.00 69.57%
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11. GRADE PLANS 11.1. DARTED PLUNGE BRA The following grade plan shows the measurements for cup sizes A-D in a 34 band size. I currently don’t know how grade down a band size, so cannot show the measurements for the rest of the sizes that Jane Elizabeth carries (26 -34 A-D).
Style No: JE004
1. Underbust Seam 2. Top Cup 3. Dart 4. Overbust Elastic Strap 5. Top of Wing 6. Bottom of Wing
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A 20 13.5 7.7 14.5 10.2 16.8
Season : AW 17/18
Range: Limited Collection
Description: Darted Plunge Bra
FINISH MEASUREMENT 34 B C D Grade 20.8 21.6 22.4 0.8 13.8 14.1 14.4 0.3 8 8.3 8.6 0.3 14.8 15.1 15.4 0.3 9.4 8.6 7.8 -0.8 16 15.2 14.4 -0.8
Tolerance + 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
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11.2. SKIMPY BRIEFS The following grade plan shows the measurements for brief sizes 4-12, which are the sizes Jane Elizabeth carries.
Style No: JE003
1. Front Waistband (-15%) 2. Back Waistband (-7%) 3. CB Seam 4. Back Scoop (-20%) 5. CF Lace Leg (-18%) 6. CF Lace Seam (-10%) 7. Front Leg (-9%) 8. Back Leg (-15%) 9. Side Seams 10. Gusset Seam 82
4 25.9 20.1 12.4 1.7 9.8 14 27.8 18.2 0.7 10.3
Season : AW 17/18
Range: Limited Collection
FINISH MEASUREMENT 6 8 10 12 28.3 30.7 33.1 35.5 22.5 24.9 27.3 29.7 13.4 14.4 15.4 16.4 2.7 3.7 4.7 5.7 11.1 12.4 13.7 15 15 16 17 18 29.1 30.4 31.7 33 18.9 19.6 20.3 21 1.7 2.7 3.7 4.7 10.6 10.9 11.2 11.5
Description: Skimpy Briefs
Grade 2.4 2.4 1 1 1.3 1 1.3 0.7 1 0.3
TOLERANCE + 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.2 0.2 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 83