Technical file by JaneDungate92

Jane Dungate DUN14416680 Industry Project Technical File

Spring/Summer 17

Jane Dungate Swimwear

CONTENTS 1 - Industry Project Technical File 1.1 - Creating the Pattern and Toiling 2 1.2 - Toile Crit 7 1.3 - Final Designs with Tech Drawings 9 1.4 - Order of Assembly 11 1.5 - Measurement Charts 20 1.6 - Lay Plans for One-Piece 22 1.7 - Costings 23 1.8 - Final Garments 24 1.9 - Evaluation 28 2 - Key Skills Technical File 2.1 - Stretch Support Body 30 2.2 - Multi-Way Bra Adaptation 34 2.3 - Grading Notes 35 3 - Personal and Professional Development Statement

Jane Dungate Swimwear

Spring/Summer 17

1.1 - CREATING THE PATTERN AND TOILING

To create my pattern, I taped stye lines onto a stand and then put 4-way stretch lycra on top and drew the pattern piece. I then used a tracing wheel to transfer this onto pattern paper. For the cups, I used a moulded foam cup with its matching wire, so I pinned this onto the stand, then put the lycra on top to create the pattern piece.

Jane Dungate Swimwear

Spring/Summer 17

The foam cups were slightly too small for the stand, however my toie for the cup pattern fit well on top. I had to make foam cut and sew cups to match the moulded cup as I was only allowed 2 pairs of moulded cups to use for my final garments

Jane Dungate Swimwear

Spring/Summer 17

I toiled my tankini design first. In the first toile, the CF was too wide and needed to be smaller by a couple of cms on each bind.

Spring/Summer 17

Jane Dungate Swimwear

The wing binds were slightly too long so I had to shorten them by 2cm each. The side seams were too far round the back, so I had to move them forward by 2cm.

Spring/Summer 17

Jane Dungate Swimwear

The side binds on the brief were too tight, so I had to lengthen them by 2cm. Also, the sides of the front and back panels werenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t strong enough just being overlocked, so for the next toile I needed to attach fulflex to them, and then twin needle coverstitch them.

Jane Dungate Swimwear

Spring/Summer 17

1.2 - TOILE CRIT

My tankini pattern didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t need much alteration from the toile crit. The CF still needed to be a little bit smaller, by about 1cm. For the brief, it was decided I should bind all around the leg and make the front and back panels more of a triangle shape as this would be more aesthetically pleasing. 7

Spring/Summer 17

Jane Dungate Swimwear

The same aesthetic comments were made for my one-piece: I should bind around the leg and make the bottom into more of a triangle shape.

Jane Dungate Swimwear

Spring/Summer 17

1.3 - FINAL DESIGNS WITH TECH DRAWINGS

Jane Dungate Swimwear

Spring/Summer 17

Jane Dungate Swimwear

Spring/Summer 17

1.4 - ORDER OF ASSEMBLY JANE DUNGATE - BOUX AVENUE WIRED BANDEAU ONE-PIECE ORDER OF ASSEMBY S/S 17 1 2

CUP OUTER: R/S of lycra together, stitch along dart. Press to side and edge stitch next to seam. MOULDED CUP: 2x2cm elastic for strap attachment. Edge stitch into outer corners of cup. Nylon tape to create 0.7cm S/A - edge stitch along wire seam

CUP OUTER TO MOULDED CUP: W/S together, edge stitch along raw edges. Cut 2cm of nylon tape - stitch onto CF of cups

TOP EDGE BINDING: Cut binding strip 75cmx3.2cm. Bind (allowing 5cm to start) 20cm, then top edge of cups and 20cm more at the end.

WING BINDING: Cut binding strip 90cmx3.2cm. Bind strip. Cut 2x20.5cm and 2x21.5cm Attach 20.5cm binding to middle notch on cup. Attach 21.5cm binding to bottom notch on cup.

MACHINE

STITCH INFO

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.5cm

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.2cm L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.3cm

Lockstitch Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.3cm

Binding machine

Binding machine Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.3cm

Jane Dungate Swimwear JANE DUNGATE - BOUX AVENUE WIRED BANDEAU ONE-PIECE ORDER OF ASSEMBY S/S 17 6

CF TOP BIND: Nylon tape along the top edge of the CF body. Edge stitch. Cut binding strip 12cmx3.2cm. Bind (allowing 5cm to start) along top edge of CF body. CF MIDDLE BIND: Cut binding strip 10cmx3.2cm. Bind (allowing 5cm to start) along nylon tape measuring 3.5cm. Attach to middle notch on cup at CF. MIDDLE LEG BINDING TO BACK: Cut 2xbinding strip 18.5cmx3.2cm. Bind strips. Cut 2x15cm Attach strips to middle notches on back of one-piece. FULFLEX ON BACK: Attach fulflex to sides on back. Turn fulflex in and twin needle coverstitch with R/S up.

Spring/Summer 17

MACHINE Lockstitch Binding machine Binding machine Lockstitch

Binding machine Lockstitch

STITCH INFO L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.3cm

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.5cm

Fulflex attachment machine Twin needle coverstitch

TOP EDGE OF BACK: Cut binding strip 48.5cmx3.2cm. Bind strip (allowing 5cm to start)15cm then along top of back then 15cm more.

Binding machine

WAIST BINDINGS TO FRONT: Attach waist bindings to front at appropriate notches.

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.5cm

Jane Dungate Swimwear JANE DUNGATE - BOUX AVENUE WIRED BANDEAU ONE-PIECE ORDER OF ASSEMBY S/S 17 12

FULFLEX ON FRONT: Attach fulflex to sides on front. Turn fulflex in and twin needle cover stitch with R/S up.

Spring/Summer 17

MACHINE Fulflex attachment machine Twin needle coverstitch

BAG OUT GUSSET: 3 thread overlock along top edge of gusset. Bag out gusset at back seam.

3 thread overlock Lockstitch

MIDDLE LEG BINDING TO BACK: Cut 2xbinding strip 18.5cmx3.2cm. Bind strips. Attach strips to middle notches on back of one-piece.

Binding machine Lockstitch

LEG BINDING: Cut 2xbinding strip 57cmx3.2cm. Bind (allowing 5cm to start) around legs, with 13cm at front of leg. Attach at back.

Binding machine Lockstitch

INSERT CUPS: Insert cups onto front.

Lockstitch

Attach wire casing along wire seam. Insert wire and bartack ends

STITCH INFO

Twin needle with wire casing Bartack

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.5cm

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.5cm L - 2.5 -3 S/A - 0.7cm Size - 69 13

Jane Dungate Swimwear JANE DUNGATE - BOUX AVENUE WIRED BANDEAU ONE-PIECE ORDER OF ASSEMBY S/S 17

BACK CLASP: Attach swimwear clasp onto wing bindings with 1cm folded round. Trim excess.

HALTERSTRAP: Cut 2xbinding strip 35cmx3.2cm. Bind strip. Thread slider through with clasp in loop. Attach swan hook to end. Trim excess.

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MACHINE Lockstitch Binding machine Lockstitch

STITCH INFO L - 2.5 -3 S/A - 0.5cm L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.3cm

Jane Dungate Swimwear JANE DUNGATE - BOUX AVENUE WIRED BANDEAU TANKINI ORDER OF ASSEMBY S/S 17 1 2

CUP OUTER TO MOULDED CUP: W/S together, edge stitch along raw edges. Cut 2cm of nylon tape - stitch onto CF of cups

TOP EDGE BINDING: Cut binding strip 75cmx3.2cm. Bind (allowing 5cm to start) 20cm, then top edge of cups and 20cm more at the end.

WING BINDING: Cut binding strip 90cmx3.2cm. Bind strip. Cut 2x20.5cm and 2x21.5cm Attach 20.5cm binding to middle notch on cup. Attach 21.5cm binding to bottom notch on cup.

Spring/Summer 17

MACHINE

STITCH INFO

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.5cm

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.2cm L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.3cm

Lockstitch Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.3cm

Binding machine

Binding machine Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.3cm

Jane Dungate Swimwear JANE DUNGATE - BOUX AVENUE WIRED BANDEAU TANKINI ORDER OF ASSEMBY S/S 17 1

3 thread overlock Lockstitch

CF MIDDLE BIND: Cut binding strip 10cmx3.2cm. Bind (allowing 5cm to start) along nylon tape measuring 3.5cm. Attach to middle notch on cup at CF.

Binding machine Lockstitch

SIDE SEAMS: R/S together, stitch along side seams.

Lockstitch

3 thread overlock then press towards back. FULFLEX: Attach fulflex to back scoop and bottom of tankini.

INSERT CUPS: Insert cups onto front. Attach wire casing along wire seam. Insert wire and bartack ends

MACHINE

BAG OUT GUSSET: 3 thread overlock along top edge of gusset. Bag out gusset at back seam.

Turn in and twin needle cover stitch with R/S up. 16

Spring/Summer 17

3 thread overlock

STITCH INFO L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.5cm

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.5cm L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.5cm

Fulflex attachment machine Twin needle coverstitch Lockstitch Twin needle with wire casing Bartack

L - 2.5 -3 S/A - 0.7cm Size - 69

Jane Dungate Swimwear JANE DUNGATE - BOUX AVENUE WIRED BANDEAU TANKINI ORDER OF ASSEMBY S/S 17 16

BACK CLASP: Attach swimwear clasp onto wing bindings with 1cm folded round. Trim excess.

HALTERSTRAP: Cut 2xbinding strip 35cmx3.2cm. Bind strip. Thread slider through with clasp in loop. Attach swan hook to end. Trim excess.

Spring/Summer 17

MACHINE Lockstitch Binding machine Lockstitch

STITCH INFO L - 2.5 -3 S/A - 0.5cm L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.3cm

Jane Dungate Swimwear JANE DUNGATE - BOUX AVENUE LOW-RISE BRIEFS ORDER OF ASSEMBY S/S 17 1 2

CUP OUTER: R/S of lycra together, stitch along dart. Press to side and edge stitch next to seam. MIDDLE BINDING: Cut 2xbinding strip 18.5cmx3.2cm. Bind strips. Cut 2x15cm Attach strips to middle notches on front and back of briefs FULFLEX SIDES: Attach fulflex to sides on front and back.

Spring/Summer 17

MACHINE

STITCH INFO

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.5cm

Binding machine Lockstitch

Turn fulflex in and twin needle coverstitch with R/S up.

Fulflex attachment machine Twin needle coverstitch

TOP EDGE BINDING: Cut binding strip 80cmx3.2cm. Bind (allowing 5cm to start) 16cm, then along top edge of front, then 16cm again then along top edge of back. Attach at side.

Binding machine

BAG OUT GUSSET: 3 thread overlock along top edge of gusset. Bag out gusset at back seam.

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.5cm

3 thread overlock Lockstitch L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.5cm

Jane Dungate Swimwear JANE DUNGATE - BOUX AVENUE LOW-RISE BRIEFS ORDER OF ASSEMBY S/S 17 6

LEG BINDING: Cut 2xbinding strip 57cmx3.2cm. Bind (allowing 5cm to start) around legs, with 13cm at front of leg. Attach at back.

Spring/Summer 17

MACHINE Binding machine Lockstitch

STITCH INFO

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.5cm

Jane Dungate Swimwear 1.5 - MEASUREMENT CHARTS

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Jane Dungate Swimwear

Spring/Summer 17

Jane Dungate Swimwear

Spring/Summer 17

1.6 - LAY PLANS FOR ONE-PIECE

I scanned the pattern for my one-piece onto the PC using the NScan software and Lectra. I then created a lay plan using the Modaris, Marker Maker, Marker Manager and Just Print software.

Name:ONE PIECE - LYCRA/ Length1,567 m/ Width1,400 m/Eff69,45 %/Date31/05/16

Name:ONE PIECE - INTERLOC/ Length0,142 m/ Width1,200 m/Eff55,22 %/Date31/05/16

Jane Dungate Swimwear

Spring/Summer 17

1.7 - COSTINGS FOR ONE-PIECE

I worked out my margin for the costings by working out how much money would be made from selling 12 garments at the RRP per garment. I then took ÂŁ93.70 from this figure which gave me how much profit I would make. I then worked out the percentage from this figure.

Jane Dungate Swimwear 1.8 - FINAL GARMENTS

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Jane Dungate Swimwear

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Jane Dungate Swimwear

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Jane Dungate Swimwear

Spring/Summer 17

Jane Dungate Swimwear

Spring/Summer 17

1.9 - EVALUATION I was quite disappointed with my final garments this term because they didn’t quite go to plan. The binding machine didn’t really work with my fabric, so the stitching on the binding on the one-piece started unravelling so I had to try and lockstitch over it. For the tankini, I tried to create my binding by hand and I found this very difficult because my hands struggle with fiddly tasks! It was only after I had finished making the garment that I became aware of a gadget called a bias binding maker. The twin needle coverstitch machine was also broken, so I decided to 3-step zig zag the fulflex in. However, if the machine did work, I would have used it. I couldn’t find any gold metal swimwear clasps online very cheap, so I bought some clear plastic ones which I used a gold nail varnish to paint over. However, it would ideally have metal clasps. In terms of fit, the one-piece worked out better than the tankini. I struggled with getting the correct seam allowance when inserting the cups onto the tankini and this resulted in the CF being too baggy. I admit I gave up with it in the end because it was driving me insane trying to sort it. I am aware that this would need rectifying. It could also be that my cutting out of the piece wasn’t very accurate. I think I did quite well with the briefs given the circumstances! They fit well and look a lot like the final design. For the lining in the gusset, I used cotton interlock. I am aware that this would have needed to be treated before it could be used in swimwear.

Spring/Summer 17

Jane Dungate Swimwear

Jane Dungate DUN14416680 Industry Project Key Skills

Jane Dungate Swimwear

Spring/Summer 17

2.1 - STRETCH SUPPORT BODY STRETCH SUPPORT BODY ORDER OF ASSEMBLY 1

CUP: W/S together, edge stitch nylon bottom cup to lyca bottom cup. R/S together, stitch bottom cup to lace top cup. Press seam towards bottom cup and edge stitch both sides of nylon tape on tape. Cut 2xnylon strap 1.5cmx19cm Attach straps to apex of cup

STITCH INFO

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.3cm L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.5cm

Lockstitch

C.F PANEL: W/S together, powernet uppermost, edge stitch powernet CF panel to lycra CF panel

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.3cm

LEG LACE: R/S together, edge stitch lace to lycra side front panel.

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.3cm

4 thread overlock seam Press seam upwards and edgestitch

MACHINE

GUSSET: Bag out lycra and cotton back gusset seams. Turn through to R/S and edge stitch sides.

ELASTICATE LEGS: Front elastic 2x16.5cm Back elastic 2x32.5cm 1 step zig zag onto R/S, then turn and 1 step zig zag again

4 thread overlock Lockstitch L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.3cm 3 thread overlock Lockstitch L - 2.5 -3 S/A - 0.3cm 1 step zig zag

L - 2.5 W - 3.1

Jane Dungate Swimwear

STRETCH SUPPORT BODY ORDER OF ASSEMBLY 6

SIDE FRONT AND C.F PANEL: R/S together, powernet uppermost, edge stitch CF panel to side front panel. 4 thread overlock, press seam to sides. Edge stitch along seams

Spring/Summer 17

MACHINE

STITCH INFO

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.3cm

4 thread overlock Lockstitch L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.3cm

C.F BRIDGE: Fold bridge in half at bottom, edge stitch top and sides.

Lockstitch

R/S together, powernet uppermost, stitch top of bridge to body.

Lockstitch

Turn bridge over and edge stitch sides.

Lockstitch

TAPE CUP: Cut 2xnylon tape 0.7cmx20.5cm. Centre tape and pin to wrong side of cup. Lockstitch centre of tape.

ELASTICATE NECK AND STRAP: Using fold over elastic machine, elasticate front neck and strap.

INSERT CUP: R/S together, stitch cup into cradle.

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.3cm L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.5cm L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.3cm L - 2.5 - 3

Fold over elastic machine Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.5cm 31

Jane Dungate Swimwear STRETCH SUPPORT BODY ORDER OF ASSEMBLY

Spring/Summer 17

MACHINE

SIDE SEAMS: R/S together, 4 thread overlock side seams.

4 thread overlock

ELASTICATE SIDE STRAPS, UNDERARMS AND ACROSS BACK: Using fold over elastic machine, elasticate from left strap through underarm, across the back to right underarm and strap.

Fold over elastic machine

WIRE CASING: Twin needle wire casing onto body around wire seam. Insert wire. Bartack ends.

Twin needle with wire casing Bartack

POPPERS: Stitch male popper to front gusset. Stitch female popper to back gusset.

STRAPS: Cut 2x24cm 10mm strapping. Loop slider through back strapping and bartack. Loop ring though front strapping and bartack. Loop back strapping through front loop. Attach to back of body,

STITCH INFO

Size - 69

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.5cm

Bartack

Size - 70 Size - 65 Size - 70 Size - 70

Jane Dungate Swimwear

Spring/Summer 17

Jane Dungate Swimwear

Spring/Summer 17

2.2 - MULTI-WAY BRA ADAPTATION

To create a pattern for this adaptation, we used the foam pattern for a 3 piece cup. To create the foam pattern, we used the top cup, front and side undercup. We overlapped these to make a 2 piece cup. We then used the CF cradle and side cradle patterns with the new foam patterns we made to create a cradle with the foam. To create the floating cradle, we used the original CF cradle and side cradle. To create the outer, we drew around the inner foam, CF and side front patterns and added seam allowances. We then had to add a dart into the side of the pattern.

Jane Dungate Swimwear

Spring/Summer 17

2.3 - GRADING NOTES

There is a 5cm difference between dress sizes which goes around the whole body, when it comes to grading, this is done in halves (the front and the back), therefore it will be 2.5cm on each half. When grading, each half if only graded by 2.4cm due to the stretch of the fabric. The length doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t grade very much, and this varies between company. For this example it was graded 1.3cm in the length.

Jane Dungate Swimwear

Spring/Summer 17

Jane Dungate Swimwear

Spring/Summer 17

3 - PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT STATEMENT This term I have felt a lot more confident in my designing ability. Lynsey really helped me when it came to developing a concept, and I understand better now how to take inspiration from random things and to broaden the concept. The colour session really helped me as well as before I was unsure of where I should be finding inspiration from and how to reference the colours properly. I feel I have definitely developed my own way of presenting my work and how to lay it out in a way that is organised and consistent. I have really enjoyed the Lectra and grading sessions this term, I feel these are skills I could excel in and I look forward to developing them further. I really enjoy maths and using methods that are very logical, and grading falls right into this. I find it quite easy to learn how to use new computer software so learning the Lectra packages was really interesting for me and I can’t wait to use them more in my final year. I especially enjoyed the grading in Lectra. My Adobe Creative Cloud skills are developing too and I feel a lot more confident with Illustrator, Photoshop and InDesign. I hope that I can develop these further during my placements. I did struggle this term with sewing again. I am aware this is not one of my greatest skills as I haven’t got a very steady hand and find fiddly things difficult to do. As previously mentioned in my evaluation, I am very disappointed with the outcome of my final garments. I was really happy with my final designs but I found it very difficult to create them in 3D. The chaos that went along with trying to work the binding machine, and then having a lot of machines break during one day meant I felt very defeated and unfortunately gave up. I am pleased that I managed to get two garments made though, even if they aren’t great. I hope that during my placement year that I will get to practise sewing more and hopefully develop this skill. However, I have come to the conclusion that I don’t want to be a machinist when I graduate. In terms of career progression, this year I have found that I would definitely like to pursue a career that is more of an analytical role, such as buying, merchandising or marketing. I believe that I have a very analytical mind and I think these roles could play to my strengths. That isn’t to say that I don’t enjoy designing and seeing my ideas come to life; I’d just much prefer a skilled machinst to actually construct the garment. I don’t struggle with pattern-cutting, and I find it quite calming. I do, however, get very worked up and stressed during sewing and don’t enjoy this element of the course as much. I haven’t struggled with time-keeping and punctuality this term, and have only missed one session due to illness which I am very proud of. Attendance wasn’t one of my strong points when I was at school, due to extraneous circumstances, but I have overcome this. This term, my mood has been very stable and I haven’t felt that my anxiety has gotten out of control. I have attended a few interviews this term and have managed to secure a short-term placement with Lisa King. I am looking forward to my year out in industry and encountering new experiences. 37