Technical file

S/S 17

Technical File Creative Industry Practice Jane Dungate DUN14416680 BA(Hons) Fashion Contour

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S/S 17

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S/S 17 CREATING THE PATTERN AND TOILE MAKING To create a pattern for the bra, I made a toile using the existing pattern for the Elomi stand that Lysney had. I then drew the style lines on to the toile for the design I made.

As shown in the photograph, some volume had to be taken out of the cups as they were too big. I also had to add another seam over the bust creating another cup piece because I couldn’t create the volume needed with a 2-piece cup.

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S/S 17 The second toile didn’t have enough coverage over the bust and the wing was too narrow, so I had to lengthen the cup pieces and make the wing pattern wider.

The third toile was too big on the cup, so I had to take away some volume from there. I had also made the wing pattern too wide, so needed to shortern it by about 1cm.

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S/S 17 For the fourth toile, I made a pattern piece for the inner sling. The sling was slightly too big, so I had to take a bit of volume out of it. The cup and wing were now the correct size for the stand.

At the toile crit, it was decided that the cups needed slightly more coverage and the apex needed moving in 1cm. The CF cradle was also slightly too wide, so I needed to take that in slightly. Once I had made the alterations to the pattern, Linda said that I could start on my final garment.

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S/S 17 To create a pattern for my briefs, I used one of Catherine’s existing patterns and graded it up to a size 16. The first toile I made was too small to fit on the stand. The second toile I made was still too small and stretched too much.

The third toile I made was still too small and it didn’t cover high enough in the front and the back. The gusset was also too small.

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S/S 17 The fourth toile fit the waist properly and gave better coverage, however, the front of the leg needed reshaping as it didn’t look quite right.

At the toile crit, it was decided that the front panel was “too straight” so I needed to curve out the seams. The legs were slightly too long at the front and meant the briefs didn’t sit properly, so they needed to be shortened It was also decided to remove the traingle from the back of the briefs because it didn’t look right. Once I made the alterations to the patterns, Linda said I could go ahead and start on my final garment.

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S/S 17 FINAL DESIGN AND TECHNICAL DRAWING

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S/S 17 ORDER OF ASSEMBLY JANE DUNGATE - B BY TED BAKER CHEEKY BRIEFS ORDER OF ASSEMBY S/S 17

MACHINE

STITCH INFO

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FRONT PANEL: R/S of satin to W/S of lace, edge stitch together.

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.3cm

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LACE TRIM FOR FRONT PANEL: R/S together, lockstitch into place, then overlock to secure.

Lockstitch 3-thread overlock

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.5cm

Press seam up to front panel, edge stitch seam.

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.3cm

FRONT PANEL TO FRONT SIDES R/S together, lockstitch into place, then overlock to secure.

Lockstitch 3-thread overlock

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.5cm

Press seam in to front panel, edge stitch seam.

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.3cm

BACK OF BRIEFS R/S together, lockstitch into place, then overlock to secure.

Lockstitch 3-thread overlock

Lockstitch 3-thread overlock

Press seam to one side, edge stitch seam.

Lockstitch

Lockstitch

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S/S 17 JANE DUNGATE - B BY TED BAKER CHEEKY BRIEFS ORDER OF ASSEMBY S/S 17

MACHINE

STITCH INFO

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Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.3cm

Lockstitch 3-thread overlock

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.3cm

Zig zag - 1 step

W - 2.0 L - 2.5

SIDE SEAMS R/S together, lockstitch into place, then overlock to secure.

Lockstitch 3-thread overlock

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.5cm

Press seam to back of briefs, edge stitch seam.

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.3cm

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WAIST ELASTIC R/S of briefs to W/S of elastic, 0.3cm overlap.

Starting 1cm behind side seam, 1 step zig zag elastic onto waistband.

Turn elastic inwards.

1 step zig zag to secure.

Zig zag - 1 step

W - 3.1 L - 2.5

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FINISHONG THE GARMENT: Handstitch bow and rose gold B on to CF of garment.

Press garment to remove creases.

Handstitch

GUSSET TO BRIEFS: Bag out gusset to front and back of briefs.

Edge stitch sides of gusset, then overlock to secure.

Press sides of gusset to insides of briefs, 1 step zig zag in place.

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S/S 17 JANE DUNGATE - B BY TED BAKER BALCONY BRA ORDER OF ASSEMBY S/S 17

MACHINE

STITCH INFO

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Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.3cm

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.3cm

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.5cm

CF CRADLE: W/S of satin CF cradle to R/S of nylon CF cradle, edge stitch into place.

R/S of satin lined CF cradle to W/S of lace CF cradle, edge stitch into place.

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SIDE CRADLE: W/S of satin side cradle to R/S of nylon side cradle, edge stitch into place.

R/S of satin lined side cradle to W/S of lace side cradle, edge stitch into place.

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SIDE CRADLE TO CF CRADLE: R/S together and lockstitch underbust seams.

Press seam outwards.

Place folded nylon tape over seam and edge stitch either side.

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.2cm

Repeat for other side.

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LINING SIDE CUP: W/S of satin side cup to R/S of nylon side cup, edge stitch into place.

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.3cm

LINING CF CUP: W/S of lace CF cup to R/S of nylon CF cup, edge stitch into place down sides.

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 S/A - 0.3cm

1 step zig zag following scallops along top of cup.

Cut lining back to stitch line.

Repeat for other cup.

Zig zag - 1 step

W - 3.1 L - 2.5

R/S of satin lined side cup to W/S of lace side cup, edge stitch into place.

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S/S 17 JANE DUNGATE - B BY TED BAKER BALCONY BRA ORDER OF ASSEMBY S/S 17

MACHINE

STITCH INFO

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LINING MIDDLE CUP: W/S of lace middle cup to R/S of nylon middle cup, edge stitch into place down sides.

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 S/A - 0.3cm

1 step zig zag following scallops along top of cup.

Cut lining back to stitch line.

Repeat for other cup.

Zig zag - 1 step

W - 3.1 L - 2.5

FOAM INNER SLING: R/S of satin to W/S of foam sling. Stitch along top edge.

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.5cm

Edgestitch along top edge.

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.2cm

Using flat nylon tape, overlap by 0.3cm on to W/S of underarm and underbust of foam sling. Stitch into place.

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3

Fold satin over to R/S of foam, edge stitch satin into place.

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.3cm

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.5cm

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Repeat for other cup.

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CF CUP TO MIDDLE CUP: R/S together and lockstitch seams.

Press seam towards middle cup.

Place folded nylon tape over seam and edge stitch either side.

Repeat for other side.

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L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.2cm

S/S 17 JANE DUNGATE - B BY TED BAKER BALCONY BRA ORDER OF ASSEMBY S/S 17

MACHINE

STITCH INFO

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SIDE CUP TO CF AND MIDDLE CUP: R/S together and lockstitch seams.

Press seam towards underarm.

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.5cm

Place folded nylon tape over seam and edge stitch either side.

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.2cm

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.3cm

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.5cm

WINGS TO CRADLE: R/S together, stitch wing to cradle.

Press seams towards to cradle.

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.5cm

Place folded nylon tape over seam and edge stitch either side.

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 - 3 S/A - 0.2cm

Repeat for other side.

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FOAM INNER SLING TO CUP: R/S of foam inner sling to W/S of cup matching notches.

Edge stitch long underarm and underbust.

Repeat for other cup.

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CUPS TO CRADLE: R/S together, matching notches, stitch along underbust.

Press seams down towards the cradle.

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Repeat for other side.

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S/S 17 JANE DUNGATE - B BY TED BAKER BALCONY BRA ORDER OF ASSEMBY S/S 17

MACHINE

STITCH INFO

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ELASTICATION OF UNDERBand: R/S of bra to W/S of elastic, 0.3cm overlap.

Starting 1cm behind side seam, 1 step zig zag elastic onto underband.

Turn elastic inwards.

3 step zig zag to secure.

Zig zag - 1 step

W - 3.1 L - 2.5

Zig zag - 3 step

W - 5.5 L - 2.5

ELASTICATION OF UNDERARM AND TOP OF WING: R/S of bra to W/S of elastic, 0.3cm overlap.

Starting 1cm behind side seam, 1 step zig zag elastic onto underarm and top of wing.

Turn elastic inwards.

3 step zig zag to secure.

Repeat for other side.

Zig zag - 1 step

W - 3.1 L - 2.5

Zig zag - 3 step

W - 5.5 L - 2.5

ELASTICATION OF BACK SCOOP: R/S of bra to W/S of elastic, 0.3cm overlap.

Starting 1cm behind side seam, 1 step zig zag elastic onto waistband.

Turn elastic inwards.

3 step zig zag to secure.

Make sure to leave 1cm of elastic at top of scoop for straps.

Zig zag - 1 step

W - 3.1 L - 2.5

Zig zag - 3 step

W - 5.5 L - 2.5

HOOK AND EYE: Insert back of wing into hooks/eyes.

Edge stitch sides and across wing to secure Hooks on right and eyes on left, when wearing the bra.

Lockstitch

L - 2.5 -3 S/A - 0.2cm

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S/S 17 JANE DUNGATE - B BY TED BAKER BALCONY BRA ORDER OF ASSEMBY S/S 17

MACHINE

STITCH INFO

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WIRE CASING: Along the underbust, twin needle stitch the wire casing onto cradle.

Insert wires.

Bartack wire casing shut.

Twin needle

L - 2.5

Bartack

Size 72

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STRAPS: Loop a slider onto overhang at back scoop, then bar tack into place.

Loop a slider onto strap and secure with a bar tack, then loop through slider at back scoop and bar tack onto apex of cup.

Bartack

Size - 65

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FINISHONG THE GARMENT: Handstitch bow and rose gold B on to CF of garment.

Press garment to remove creases.

Handstitch

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S/S 17 SIZE SPECIFICATION FRONT VIEW

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BACK VIEW

S/S 17 MEASUREMENTS

SIZE

TOLERANCE +/-

A

Shoulder straps (not inc.

5cm adjustment)

39.5cm

1cm

B

Neck edge

21.5cm

0.5cm

C

Underarm Stretched Relaxed

31cm 27cm

0.5cm 0.5cm

Back scoop Stretched Relaxed

9cm 7cm

0.5cm 0.5cm

D

MEASUREMENTS

SIZE

TOLERANCE +/-

50cm 34cm

0.5cm 0.5cm

N

Waistband (Half) Stretched Relaxed

O

Side seams

14.5cm

0.5cm

P

Side front seams

15.5cm

0.5cm

Q

Front panel leg seam

13cm

0.5cm

R

Front of leg

25.5cm

0.5cm

S

Front of gusset

7cm

0.5cm

E

Wing and cradle seam

11.5cm

0.5cm

T

Side of gusset

8.5cm

0.5cm

F

Hook and eye

7.5cm

0.5cm

U

CB seam

24cm

0.5cm

V

Back of leg

31.5cm

0.5cm

G

Wing Stretched Relaxed

W

Back of gusset

7cm

0.5cm

21.5cm 14.5cm

0.5cm 0.5cm

H

Underband Stretched Relaxed

83cm 62cm

0.5cm 0.5cm

I

Underbust

28cm

0.5cm

J

Middle to side cup seam

23.5cm

0.5cm

K

CF to middle cup seam

16.5cm

0.5cm

L

Top edge of inner sling

22cm

0.5cm

M

Bows

3.5cm

0.5cm 15

S/S 17 FINAL GARMENT:

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S/S 17 EVALUATION: Debenhams chose my balcony bra and cheeky briefs design from my first range. I was very happy with this decision, as I haven’t had the chance to make my own bra yet and all the garments I have made from my own designs so far have been non-wired. I was excited to take on the new challenge.

Creating the pattern was quite straight forward, it really helped being able to use an existing pattern and just make alterations to that. I think I did quite well making my patterns, any alterations I needed to make, I understood why and how to do them.

Sewing the garment was quite easy, but it did have its difficulties! The lace that I used was quite a challenge to sew. After concstruction, I realised that some of the lace was starting to come out from the sewing as the holes in the lace were quite big and it didn’t quite secure properly into the stitching. The machine was also ‘eating’ the lace at times when I was sewing, so I had to keep an eye on it to make sure it didn’t get jammed in the machine. My sewing skills still need improving, as I am still inaccurate at times, but much better than when I started the course.

Unfortunately, I found it quite difficult to source components in the correct colours, for example the rings and sliders. I was planning to use some sliders from an existing B by Ted Baker bra that I bought, however they were too big for the straps I had. I got the straps from a bra that I bought from Simply Be. I decided to use the sliders from that bra, as they matched the colour of my bra. However, I didn’t realise it was a multiway bra, so the sliders at the loop on the back scoop are actually swan hooks. If I was to make this bra again, I would make sure to try and source the rose gold sliders.

I would also try to source mint green knicker, underband and underarm elastic; and mint green wire casing.

When I bartacked the straps on to the front apex, I was being pressured by another student to hurry up, so the placement of the straps isn’t quite correct. Also, on the left cup, I stitched the bartacking in the wrong place, so I had to redo it. I couldn’t quite unpick the original bartacking. If I was to make this bra again, I would make sure to keep calm and make sure the bartacking is precise. I had also been sewing for 6 hours straight and I think my accuracy and concentration was lacking by that point. If I was to do this again, I would make sure to take more breaks and keep my mind refreshed.

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S/S 17

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S/S 17

Technical File - Key Skills Creative Industry Practice Jane Dungate DUN14416680 BA(Hons) Fashion Contour

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S/S 17 PLUNGE CUP WITH COOKIE INSERT:

1. SIMPLEX INNER: Fold over 0.5cm on edge of simplex inner.

Lockstitch in place.

1 step zig zag to secure.

2. FOAM CUP: 1 step zig zag foam pieces together.

Edge stitch flat nylon tape to edges.

3. INNER TO FOAM CUP: W/S together, edge stitch raw edges of inner to foam cup and tape.

Edge stitch folded nylon tape over overbust seam.

4. FABRIC CUP: R/S together, lockstitch along overbust seam.

Press seam open.

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S/S 17 5. FOAM CUP TO FABRIC CUP: R/S of fabric to W/S of foam.

Lockstitch along the top edge S/A - 0.5cm Edge stitch along top edge.

3. FOAM CUP TO FABRIC CUP: Turn fabric to R/S of foam cup.

Edge stitch raw edges.

7. COOKIE INSERT: 3-thread overlock raw edges of cookie insert.

8. FINISHED GARMENT: Insert cookie into pocket made on cup.

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S/S 17 SPORTS BRA:

1. TOP CENTRE CUP TO BOTTOM CENTRE CUP: R/S together, lockstitch along overbust seam - S/A - 0.5cm Press seam to face bottom centre cup.

Edge stitch folded nylon tape over overbust seam.

2. INNER SLING: W/S together, edge stitch inner sling to lower section of cup.

3. CRADLE: R/S together, lockstitch cup to cradle with cup on top - S/A 0.5cm.

Press seam to face cradle.

Edge stitch folded nylon tape over underbust seam.

4. CF PANEL TO CUP: R/S together, lockstitch cup to CF panel.

Press seams towards CF panel.

Edge stitch folded nylon tape over seam.

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3 step zig zag along raw edge of sling to attach to cup.

S/S 17 5. CF PANEL SEAM: R/S together, lockstitch CF seam - S/A - 0.5cm.

Press seam open.

6. INNER CRADLE: 3-thread overlock along cup edge.

R/S together, lockstitch CF seam - S/A - 0.5cm.

Press seam open.

7. FOAM STRAP TO OUTER: Overlap W/S of outer on top of wider end of foam strap.

1 step zig zag raw edge.

8. CF SEAMS: W/S together, pin CF seams of outer and inner together.

1 step zig zag along both CF seams to hold together.

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S/S 17 9. OUTER TO INNER: W/S together, edge stitch all outer edges to attach.

11. FOLD OVER ELASTIC: Use foldover elastic machine to elastic along neck edge, underarm and back swoop.

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10. WING TO CRADLE: R/S together, lockstitch side seams - S/A - 0.5cm.

Press seams towards cradle.

Edge stitch folded nylon tape over seams.

12. UNDERBUST: Elastic - 59cm R/S of bra to W/S of elastic, 0.3cm overlap.

1 step zig zag elastic onto underband.

Turn elastic inwards.

1 step zig zag to secure.

S/S 17 13. HOOK AND EYE: Insert back of wing into hooks/ eyes.

Edge stitch sides and across wing to secure Hooks on right and eyes on left, when wearing the bra.

14. STRAPS: Cut straps - 2 x 27cm.

Thread strapping through slider, bartack to secure.

Thread back strap through ring, bartack to secure.

Thread straps through for adjustment.

Fold back elastic at back swoop and bar tack onto back apex.

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S/S 17 MOULDED CUP PATTERN: To make a cup pattern for a moulded cup, we placed the lycra over the moulded cup and pinned it along the neckedge, smoothing as we went along. We then created a dart by pinning along the underbust from the outer edges inwards, smoothing as we went along. The excess fabric created the dart. We then drew around the outside of the cup on the fabric and the position of the dart. We used this to trace the shape onto pattern paper so we create our patterns, adding the appropriate seam allowances.

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S/S 17 MOVING THE APEX: To move the apex on an existing pattern, we drew X and Y axes on a piece of pattern paper and the existing pattern pieces. We were moving the apex inwards by 2cm, so 2cm in from the Y axis, we drew a parellel line, labelling it B. To get the shape, we placed the side cup pattern piece on top of the paper, matching the X and Y axes. We partially drew around the pattern around the underbust, centre seam, and some of the underarm and some of the neck edge. We then moved the pattern piece so the X axes matched, by the Y axis now matched line B. We drew around the rest of the piece to create the new side cup, smoothing out any lines that needed smoothing.

We then had to alter the shape of the top cup, due to this alteration. We did the same thing again for the top cup.

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S/S 17 DRAFTING PATTERN - 36FF - WIRED ON THE CRADLE: We drafted a cradle pattern for 36FF for a bra that was wired on the cradle. We created a pattern using a wire and splaying it out to get the shape and adding wireplay. We then drew on the style lines for the cradle and wing.

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S/S 17 DRAFTING PATTERN - 36FF - WIRED OFF THE CRADLE: We drafted a cradle pattern for 36FF for a bra that was wired off the cradle. We started by tracing off the lower wire line from the existing “wired on the cradle” pattern we had just made. We then traced the wing and CF shape, but made new wire lines slightly in from the existing wire line to account for the wiring to be on the cup, not the cradle.

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S/S 17

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S/S 17 PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT: I have felt a lot happier this term, in comparison to last term. I didn’t get behind with any work this term, as I didn’t have any issues that needing dealing with. I attended every design, technical and CHS session this term and I hope that my grade reflects this. I did miss a couple of IT sessions as the timetable for them kept changing and I was getting confused as to when my group was in and when it was group A. Although, I don’t struggle with the IT side of things, so I don’t think that was too detrimental to my work this term.

In terms of designing, I believe I have gotten a lot better. I owe this to the time and hard work that Lynsey has given to us to make sure we completely understand the design process. I also had a lot more research when it came to designing this term, and a better idea of my concept, which also really helped. I do still need to improve my hand drawing skills, being able to draw fabrics and details more accurately and I hope this skill develops over time with practice.

Linda has really helped me with my technical skills this term. I felt a lot happier with the design that Debenhams chose this term, compared to my nightgown last term. I enjoyed the challenge of making something for the fuller bust using a different stand, it has made me feel much more confident in my technical abilities. I am also aware of how they have developed from when I first started and grading is something I actually really quite enjoy. Before, it used to intimidate me. To improve, I will continue to try and challenge myself and also remember that for toile crits, I need to have completed elastication and put a wire in (if needed) as I was unsure of this before and came to my toile crit this term slightly unprepared.

Luckily, it was something I could quickly amend in the sewing room. My sewing accuracy is something that still needs improving, but I’m hoping this skill will also develop over time with practice.

After a few hiccoughs during the middle of the term in relation to my CHS proposal, I feel really confident with what I shall be writing about in my extended essay. I found the lectures and seminars very helpful, and after everything was cleared up with my tutor about my research question, I got a lot of help from her and my peers.

Creating the portfolio for the visual portion of Research Methods was really fun. I enjoyed creating an idea for a possible future brand and enjoyed playing around with layout and presentation on Workflow. I found the workshops with Catherine really helpful, being able to look at previous students’ work to give an idea of what sort of thing was expected of us. I think with development on my initial design ranges, I could create some really interesting designs, that are more personal to my tastes.

During this term, I have gone to a lot of interviews for placements. I have managed to secure a 6 month unpaid placement with Bordelle, which I am really looking forward to. I was very proud of myself in reaching out to companies and managing to get an interview at Boux Avenue. They hadn’t advertised any placements, as they haven’t done it before, but had been thinking about taking on interns. I thought the interview went quite well, however they decided they wouldn’t be taking on any interns for the time-being. I also got selected for an assessment day with the Walt Disney company. Unfortunately, they weren’t looking for a design creative. However, I have gained great experience from having these interviews and 31 learning how to deal with rejection.