Technical File Creative Professional Practice Jane Dungate DUN14416680 BA(Hons) Fashion Contour
MODELLING ON THE STAND TO CREATE THE TOP CAGE PATTERN
TOILING THE SKIRT PATTERN FROM WOVEN DRESS BLOCK
I needed to remove the darts and lower the waistline to the top hip. The skirt was also too big round the hips.
After the second toile, the skirt was still too big around the hips.
TOILE CRITIQUE
At the toile critique, we decided the garment would look better by combining the individual pattern pieces for the caging so there would be less anchor points and so the garment would fit better. The CF strip also needed to made 2cm longers as it was altering the criss cross on the collar bone. The skirt needed to have more fullness a long the bottom of the skirt and it needed about 1cm added on around the hips because it wasn’t sitting correctly on the stand. We also decided that the skirt didn’t need a side opening, and that the skirt would look better with leatherette binding on the bottom.
CREATING A NEW PATTERN ON THE STAND
SECOND TOILE
FINAL DESIGN - HESTIA LONG GOWN
HESTIA LONG GOWN - TECHNICAL DRAWINGS
ORDER OF ASSEMBLY
NAME : Jane Dungate 1
2 3 4
5 6 7
8 9 10
11 12 13
ORDER OF ASSEMBLY Cut bra elastic – 2 x 24cm & 2 x 4cm. Thread longer elastic through slider and ring, and create loop with shorter elastic through ring. Stitch to secure. Bag out shoulder straps, with bra elastic at top of leatherette strapping.
Machine
Stitch info
Lockstitch/Bar S/A – 0.5cm tack L – 2.5 Bartack - 69
Lockstitch 4 thread overlock Bag out overbust strap and attach to apex of Lockstitch shoulder strap. 4 thread overlock Bag out criss cross strap and attach to shoulder Lockstitch strap. 4 thread Handstitch onto apex of shoulder strap and overlock overbust strap Handstitch Bag out C.F body strap and attach to overbust Lockstitch strap. 4 thread overlock Bag out underarm body strap and attach to criss Lockstitch cross strap at underarm. 4 thread overlock Bag out underbust band and attach overbust Lockstitch straps at C.F and underarm strap. 4 thread Attach bra elastic at back. overlock Bartack Bag out side bands and attach to underbust band. Lockstitch 4 thread overlock Bag out back bands and attach to underbust Lockstitch band. 4 thread overlock Bag out C.F band and attach top to centre of criss Lockstitch cross using handstitching. 4 thread overlock Hand stitch Bag out waist band and hand stitch to centre of Lockstitch side and back bands. 4 thread overlock With R/S together, stitch along top edge of top hip Lockstitch – front band, making sure to trap C.F band, C.F 4 thread body straps and underarm straps in correct places. overlock With R/S together, stitch along top edge of top hip Lockstitch – back band, making sure to trap side and back 4 thread bands in correct places. overlock
S/A – 0.5cm L – 2.5 S/A – 0.5cm L – 2.5 S/A – 0.5cm L – 2.5 S/A – 0.5cm L – 2.5 S/A – 0.5cm L – 2.5 S/A – 0.5cm L – 2.5 Bartack - 69 S/A – 0.5cm L – 2.5 S/A – 0.5cm L – 2.5 S/A – 0.5cm L – 2.5 S/A – 0.5cm L – 2.5 S/A – 0.5cm L – 2.5 S/A – 0.5cm L – 2.5
14
With R/S together, stitch top of skirt front to outer bottom edge of top hip – front band. With W/S together, turn in 0.5cm of inner top hip – front band and stitch down With W/S together, stitch inner and outer top hip – front band together. With R/S together, stitch top of skirt back to outer bottom edge of top hip – back band. With W/S together, turn in 0.5cm of inner top hip – back band and stitch down With W/S together, stitch inner and outer top hip – front band together.
Lockstitch
20
With R/S together, stitch bottom of skirt front to outer top edge of skirt binding – front.
Lockstitch
S/A – 0.5cm L – 2.5
21
With W/S together, turn in 0.5cm of inner skirt binding – front and stitch down
Lockstitch
S/A – 0.5cm L – 2.5
22
With W/S together, stitch inner and outer skirt binding – front together.
Lockstitch
S/A – 0.5cm L – 2.5
23
With R/S together, stitch bottom of skirt back to outer top edge of skirt binding – back.
Lockstitch
S/A – 0.5cm L – 2.5
24
With W/S together, turn in 0.5cm of inner skirt binding – back and stitch down
Lockstitch
S/A – 0.5cm L – 2.5
25
With W/S together, stitch inner and outer skirt binding – back together.
Lockstitch
S/A – 0.5cm L – 2.5
26
Attach hooks and eyes to C.B of underbust band and waist band.
Lockstitch
L – 2.5
27
Hand stitch flaps closed at C.F, C.F body strap, underarm body strap, criss cross on shoulder straps, criss cross at underarms, side bands and back bands.
Handstitch
15 16 17 18 19
Lockstitch Lockstitch Lockstitch Lockstitch Lockstitch
S/A – 0.5cm L – 2.5 S/A – 0.5cm L – 2.5 S/A – 0.5cm L – 2.5 S/A – 0.5cm L – 2.5 S/A – 0.5cm L – 2.5 S/A – 0.5cm L – 2.5
SIZE SPECIFICATION SPECIFICATION SHEET
Name: Jane Dungate
FRONT VIEW
SIDE AND BACK VIEW
Measurements
Date: 02/12/15 Size
Tolerance +/-
A
C.F band
40.5cm
0.5cm
B
Underbust band
83.5cm
0.5cm
C
Waist band
70.5cm
0.5cm
D
Shoulder strap from apex to elastic
28cm
0.5cm
E
Criss cross to underarm 43cm
0.5cm
F
C.F body strap
26cm
0.2cm
G
Underarm body strap
28cm
0.2cm
H
Top hip – front
42cm
0.5cm
I
Bra elastic From shoulder strap to ring Loop
11.8cm
0.5cm
1.5cm
0.5cm
J
Side band
16cm
0.5cm
K
Back band
16.5cm
0.5cm
L
Top hip – back
37.5cm
0.5cm
M
Skirt length
82.5cm
0.5cm
N
Skirt binding front
55cm
0.5cm
O
Skirt binding back
52cm
0.5cm
FINAL GARMENT EVALUATION
Coco de Mer chose my Hestia Long Gown design for me to create. Initially, I was very happy with this decision because it gave me the chance to make a nightgown, which I have never done before, and the cage design looked like a challenge. However, I did find creating the pattern for the upper cage design quite difficult. First of all, I created individual pattern pieces for each strap, which didn’t look quite right, so I made longer pieces which incorporated more than one strap. This made the garment fit, and look, better. I struggled with the construction of the garment as well, mainly due to the fact that when I was sewing on the right side of the leatherette, it would get stuck under the foot of the machine and to pull it through, I think I stretched some parts. I also struggle quite a bit using chiffon, especially when it’s cut on the bias! Pressing the leatherette was also quite difficult because I had to have a piece of calico on top, so that it didn’t melt onto the iron, and it wouldn’t quite lay flat. When it came to creating the bra straps for the garment, I realised I had the wrong elastic and I had bra elastic for the wing and underbust, not bra strapping. Unfortunately, by this point it was too late to go out and buy the correct elastic, so I had to make do with what I had. This elastic stretches more than bra strapping, so I had to tighten the straps a lot more for the fit to work. Overall, I’m happy with my final garment. I know it could be better, but I’m still not that skilled as a machinist yet, but I am happy with what I have achieved and it appears to fit alright.
Technical Skills Creative Professional Practice Jane Dungate DUN14416680 BA(Hons) Fashion Contour
SWIMSUIT - ASYMMETRICAL WITH INNER BRA CUP & CONTROL FRONT
CB R/S together, lockstitch then 4 thread overlock.
SHOULDER SEAMS With the white piece on the left shoulder, R/S together, lockstitch then 4 thread overlock.
DARTS R/S together, lockstitch then 3 thread overlock, making sure to round off the dart.
BACK GUSSET Bag out back gusset. Lockstitch to back of swimsuit, then 3 thread overlock.
FOAM CUPS Lockstitch top and bottom of cups together on overbust seam. Coverstitch cups together.
LINING Overlap powermesh on R/S of cup by 0.8cm and lockstitch. Coverstitch around the raw edge.
LINING TO OUTER With W/S together, edgestitch armhole and neckline with powermesh on top. Do this for both sides of the swimsuit.
ELASTICATION FOR NECK Cut fulflex - 120cm 1/4 the elastic and the neckline. With W/S up, with rubber on top, edgestitch elastic around neckline - use larger stitches. 3 thread overlock along the edge. Roll elastic in to W/S and 1 step zig zag.
LEFT CUP Edgestitch powernet to lycra at side seams and underbust. Match CF notches and edgestitch left cup under the right cup.
UNDERBUST ELASTIC Fluffy side up, overlap by 0.6cm on underbust of lining and 1 step zig zag. Fluffy side up, overlap by 0.6cm on lower tummy lining and 1 step zig zag.
GATHERS ON LEFT SIDE SEAM Edgestitch left wrap to left side front. Using large stitches, edge stitch gather points. Pull gathers to 8.5cm, knot end to secure. Even out gathers.
LINING TO OUTER AND SIDE SEAMS Edgestitch powermesh to front outer along side seams with powermesh on top. Edgestitch powermesh to front outer on legs with powermesh on top. Edgestitch gusset to legs. R/S together, edgestitch side seams. 4 thread overlock side seams.
ELASTICATION FOR ARMHOLES AND LEGS Cut fulflex for armholes - 2 x 38cm Cut fulflex for legs - 2 x 49cm 1/2 armhole and armhole elastic. Start 1cm behind side seams, using large stitches, lockstitch elastic to inside of armhole, overlapping by 1cm at the end. 3 thread overlock the edge. Roll in to W/S and 1 step zig zag. Repeat for other arm. 1/2 leg and leg elastic. Start 1cm behind side seams, using large stitches, lockstitch elastic to inside of leg, overlapping by 1cm at the end. 3 thread overlock the edge. Roll in to W/S and 1 step zig zag. Repeat for other leg.
CF Bartack C.F on neckline using 69/70 size stitch.
AMENDING A PATTERN - SWIMSUIT PATTERN We amended a basic swimsuit pattern to create a pattern that had foam cups. To do this, we had to create a new pattern for a lining by separating the top and bottom of the swimsuit pattern. Then we had to close the dart. To make the pattern fit with a foam cup, we cut a circle out of the pattern and pin it onto the stand. We made a foam cup and pinned this on to the stand on top of the pattern. We drew around the foam cup. When we removed the pattern pieces, we had to walk our foam cup round the pattern to make sure that the foam cup would fit. We then made amendments to the pattern to make sure it fit and then added seam allowances to both the top and bottom of the patterns,
TECHNICAL METHODS - AMERICAN WIRE CASING (1/2 BRA) DART Edgestitch dart with 0.5cm S/A remembering to round off the dart. 3 thread overlock dart. Edgestitch seam towards underarm.
BRIDGE Bag out the bridge with a 0.5cm S/A at the top and bottom. Turn through and edgestitch raw side edges.
TAPE Cut 9cm of nylon tape for armhole. Cut 21cm of nylon tape for undercup. Lockstitch tape on W/S of armhole. Lockstitch tape on W/S of undercup.
BRIDGE TO CUP With 0.7cm S/A, lockstitch bridge to undercup with R/S together.
ELASTIC Cut 9.5cm of elastic for underarm. Cut 17.5cm of elastic for upper wing. Cut 19cm of elastic for lower wing. 1 step zig zag elastic to underarm, turn in to W/S, then 3 step zig zag. 1 step zig zag elastic to upper and lower wing, turn in to W/S, then 3 step zig zag.
WING TO CUP With 0.7cm S/A, lockstitch wing to C.F of cup with W/S together.
WIRE CASING Cut 21cm of wire casing. With 0.7cm S/A, lockstitch next to fold on plain side of casing to cup. Fold fluffy side to R/S and edgestitch. Roll casing to W/S towards cup. Insert plunge wire. Bartack ends of wire casing.
TECHNICAL METHODS - BAGGED OUT WING
TOP EDGE OF WING R/S together, edgestitch outer to lining along top edge. R/S together, twin needle/bottom coverstitch elastic to top edge of outer wing. Turn elastic to lining and 1 step zig zag elastic to lining.
BOTTOM EDGE OF WING R/S together, edgestitch outer to lining along bottom edge. Twin needle/bottom coverstitch elastic to bottom edge of wing on W/S. Turn through and steam flat.
TECHNICAL METHODS - BAGGED OUT STRAP
BAGGED OUT STRAP Cut binding 3.3cm wide x 40cm long. Cut strapping 30cm. R/S together, fold bind in 1/2 and 3 thread overlock down length. Turn through so R/S facing out. Thread strapping through and lockstitch it to one end. Binding can be pulled flat, or ruched.
TECHNICAL METHODS - MOULDED CUP WITH TAPE STITCHED FLAT
TAPE STITCHED FLAT Cut 4-way stretch lycra 25cm x 25cm. Nylon tape - 25cm. With 0.3cm S/A, overlap and lockstitch inside of moulded cup to W/S of lyrca with moulded cup on top. Edgestitch both sides of nylon tape to inside of moulded cup covering lycra. Turn fabric to R/S.
TECHNICAL METHODS - MOULDED CUP WITH TAPE FOLDED OVER NECK EDGE TAPE FOLDED OVER NECK EDGE Cut 4-way stretch lycra 25cm x 25cm. With R/S of lycra to inside of moulded cup edgestitch along neck edge. With 0.3cm S/A, lockstitch one edge of nylon tape to lycra side of cup. Fold tape over neckedge and 1 step zig zag down. Turn fabric to R/S.
CREATING SLINGS - INNER SLING
These images show how you can create a pattern for a sling for a sports bra using a 2-piece cup pattern.
CREATING SLINGS - NURSING BRA These images show how you can create a pattern for a sling for a nursing bra using a 2-piece cup pattern.
DIFFERENT TYPES OF SLINGS - NURSING BRA These images show different types of slings used for nursing bras.
PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT This term has been one of the most difficult terms for me so far on this course. I started off this academic year a bit on the back foot because I had come off my antidepressant medication over the summer, after being on it for 3 and a half years, and I was unaware to begin with how low my mood was and that my anxiety was coming back. It all flared up again in the first couple of weeks being back and I found it difficult to get the work done, get out of the flat and I was having panic attacks again, which really set me back on timing with the design work. I made myself an emergency appointment with the doctor to get back on the medication and it took a further two weeks for it to kick in. I wasn’t back to my “normal self” till about the beginning of November, so I had unfortunately lost out on a month’s worth of time. In respect to the work this term, although I struggled to keep up with the work, I have understood what was being asked of me. I believe that next term, I will be a lot more prepared for what is required and the time span in which I need to do it. When it came to making my final garment, I was set back by another blow by coming down with a really heavy cold in the last few weeks of term. I felt absolutely awful, but I did still manage to get things done on my machines at home. I know that I’m still not quite the skilled machinist, but I did my best. I know that if I was, the outcome would have been better. Unfortunately, I couldn’t take a photo of my final garment on the stand in Curtain Road, but I did manage to get one on my stand at home. The same goes for my swimsuit, which I had to take a photo of on a hanger because I don’t have a contour stand in which I could put it on. I am very disappointed in my attendance to the CHS lectures this term. Due to the fact I was really behind with my design work, I decided the best use of my Tuesday afternoons/evenings was working on my portfolio. Due to my lectures being in Lime Grove, I was out of my flat from 1.30pm to 8.00pm and I believed that I would be wasting too much precious time going all the way to Shepherd’s Bush. I did manage to keep up with the work by checking Moodle for the lectures and hand-outs and by doing the reading. I didn’t find doing the CHS work this way too difficult, as I have previous experience of teaching myself with my A Levels. I understood the work and the concepts, and don’t have difficulty motivating myself to do the work. In reflection, I am extremely proud of the work I have done this term and the challenges I had to overcome. In foresight, in preparation for next term, I will make sure to keep on track of my work and to ask for help earlier if I feel need it, whether it be practical help, or if I feel I’m struggling with my mood and anxiety.