The Valley Table 68, December 2014–February 2015

T H E M AG A Z I N E O F H U D S O N VA L L E Y FA R M S , F O O D A N D C U I S I N E

NUMBER 68 DECEMBER 2014– FEBRUARY 2015 WWW.VALLEYTABLE.COM

HRHCare & The Valley Table Salute

(L-R): John Crabtree, Anne Kauffman Nolon, Merry Anne Vogt and Glenn Vogt

Glenn and Merry Anne Vogt and John Crabtree For continued support of Hudson Valley farmers raising and growing their products naturally, sustainably and humanely.

HRHCare provides health care to over 8,000 farmers in the Hudson Valley and Long Island who do not have access to care and to more than 110,000 of our most vulnerable community members.

The HRHCare Foundation’s Annual Cornucopia Celebratory Benefit of Harvest and Health raises funds and awareness for HRHCare’s mission of increasing access to comprehensive primary and preventive health care for all.

Learn how you can make a difference. www.hrhcare.org Email us at foundation@hrhcare.org to join our mailing list.

Comfort Food & Beverages

Join us in the Sullivan County Catskills this winter where we’re now serving up a taste of the good life. Savor our fine organic meals. Sip on hand-crafted spirits, wines and beer.

There’s always something hot, spicy, hoppy, and sweet.

1-800-882-CATS SCVA.net

® I LOVE NEW YORK logo is a registered trademark/service mark of the NYS Dept.of Economic Development, used with permission.

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A tasting room offering beer pairings with small plates celebrating local seasonal products.

Retailing craft beer, cheese, house-made charcuterie and local specialty food products.

Personalized service for beer and food pairings.

554 Main St. Beacon

(845) 440-8676

www.thehopbeacon.com

Expertly crafted cuisine, affordably priced, locally sourced We offer a full bar with signature specialty cocktails, craft beer on tap, and a great selection of wines from around the world as well as our own hudson valley region.

JOIN US FOR LUNCH, DINNER, AND A SPECIAL SATURDAY AND SUNDAY BRUNCH 206 MAIN STREET, POUGHKEEPSIE, NY 12601 (845) 337-4684 | QUEENCITYBISTRO.COM

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TUESDAY THROUGH SUNDAY | OUTSIDE PATIO DINING AVAILABLE TUES-THURS 11-3, 5-10; FRI 11-3, 5-11; SAT 10-3, 5-11; SUN 10-9

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number 68 december 2014–february 2015

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the corbin hill food project: making things happen Dennis Derryck doesn’t mess around. At the New School University, he teaches students how to get things done. So when he learned how little fresh food was available to residents in some impoverished New York City neighborhoods, he did something about it—he bought a farm, rallied neighboring farmers, got a big truck, and now brings the food to them. by Tracy Frisch

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all in the families So, this developer buys this property in Poughkeepsie, see, and his son runs it for him, and he knows these two brothers who know how to cook and run a restaurant and they’ve got these two good friends who know how to brew really good beer, so they all get together and they fix this place up, see, and it’s way cool. But wait, there’s more . . . by Leslie Coons

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banned in canada He’s not really sure what he did to offend the normally placid Canadians, but for some reason they won’t let Chris Vergara into the country. That’s probably just as well, because he’s got plenty to do right here as chef/owner of three of Westchester’s hottest restaurants. by Julia Sexton

PHOTO : ETHAN HARRISON

VALLEYTABLE . COM

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departments Chaseholm Farm cheese, Commodore candy, state aid for young farmers, new CIA restaurant, state snack, cranberries, kudos, events and more.

Pangea, Bluestone Bistro, The Corner, Frogmore Tavern, Hudson Room, Port Chester Hall, Ralph & Dave’s

21 Books Mastalia’s portraits, Beranbaum’s bible, Rose’s Dutch treats 41 Drink Return of the green fairy, by Timothy Buzinski 45 Eating by the season Six soups, by Marissa Sertich Velie 61 Winter Farmers’ Markets in the Hudson Valley 2015 68 Locally Grown Eating local in Sicily, by Keith Stewart 72 Index of advertisers 74 Directory 84 Last call Take the Pledge

recipes 14Cranberry sorbet (Siena Wright/Duo Bistro) 36 Fig & pig pizza (Daniel Crocco/Mill House) 37 Velvet Panda stout-braised short ribs (Daniel Crocco/Mill House) 43 Southside Sazerac (Jason Steinberg/Saint George) 43 Corpse Reviver #2 (Cassie Fellet/Rock & Rye) 46 French onion soup (Dana Calabrese/Ship Lantern) 47 Golden nugget squash soup (Josh Kroner/Terrapin) 48 German potato soup (Marianne Olive/Sour Kraut) 49 Black truffle soup (Bocuse Restaurant) 50 White bean & kale soup (Eddie Lauria/Aroma Osteria) 51 Roasted tomato & peanut butter soup (Pam Brown/The Garden Café) 58 Smoked lamb shoulder (Chris Vergara/Harper’s) 59 Truffled chestnut soup (Chris Vergara/Saint George) 60 Duck agnolotti (Chris Vergara/Meritage) 6

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MIDDLE PHOTO BY ANN STRATTON ; OTHER PHOTOS VALLEY TABLE

MID VALLEY WINE & LIQUOR Always the perfect gift

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EDITOR’S LETTER

Weighty matters Fourteen days and six pounds later, the fall edition of Hudson Valley Restaurant Week 2014 is history. The vast majority of the owners of the 200 restaurants that officially participated in the event woke up happy Monday morning—many set new records for the number of meals they served. We never get tired of hearing from diners who visited a restaurant for the first time and then tell us they’ve found a new favorite, or from restaurateurs who were nearly overwhelmed by the number of covers. And the servers and busboys and line cooks and dishwashers who made it through the full two weeks still standing deserve applause and some sort of merit badge, as well.

Speaking of next time, the next Hudson Valley Restaurant Week will be in March 2015, and it marks the event’s tenth anniversary. It will be hard to top this most-recent one in either business or enthusiasm, but an anniversary is cause for celebration. We’re headed for the workout machines in the meantime because it could be a ten-pound event.

And speaking of poundage, this issue is a heavyweight when it comes to food, whether you’re planning to eat out or eat in. We’ve got hearty recipes from almost a dozen restaurants—starting with six perfect soups that will help beat winter chills, guaranteed. Toss in a few more recipes from Poughkeepsie’s liveliest new restaurant/brewery and more from one of Westchester’s hottest chefs, and you’ve got the makings of a very serious diet if you expect to make weight by Christmas. If it’s a liquid diet you crave, we’ve even got a couple of recipes that call for something quite special (notorious and infamous also come to mind—just a little kiss from the green fairy—absinthe—the mythical/mystical herb-based elixir that is being produced right here in the Hudson Valley now that the century-old ban on its production and import has been lifted.

Concerning weightier matters, we take an up-close look at the work of professor Dennis Derryck—a man who doesn’t complain about what’s wrong with our food system, he just goes ahead and fixes it. Thanks to his efforts and ability, tons of food are being delivered monthly to thousands of those who need it most.

To you and to all, a toast.

—JN

THE VALLEY TABLE THE MAGAZINE OF HUDSON VALLEY FARMS, FOOD AND CUISINE THE VALLEY TABLE, INC. 380 MAIN STREET, SUITE 201 BEACON, NY 12508 (845) 765-2600 www.valleytable.com www.hudsonvalleyrestaurantweek.com CO-PUBLISHERS Janet Crawshaw Jerry Novesky NUMBER 68 DEC. 2014–FEB. 2015 Editor-in-Chief Jerry Novesky Advertising Director Janet Crawshaw Contributing Editor Steven Kolpan Assistant Director of Marketing Laura Lee Holmbo Digital Editor Todd Spire Graphic Design Greg Simpson / Ephemera Design Coordinator Emily Verdile Editorial Intern Margaret Hack Advertising Representative Tom Best Contributors to this issue Timothy Buzinski Sommer Hixson Simon Feldman Julia Sexton Tracy Frisch Keith Stewart Christine Gritmon Ann Stratton Ethan Harrison Marrissa Sertich Velie THE VALLEY TABLE is exclusively devoted to Hudson Valley agriculture, food and cuisine. We support sustainable agricultural practices and efforts to strengthen the links among regional producers, marketers, restaurateurs and consumers. We urge you to patronize businesses that feature Hudson Valley products and to support initiatives that benefit regional agriculture and related efforts.

News, articles, event announcements, art and photographs related to regional agriculture, food production and preparation, restaurants, regional wine, beer and spirits, or Hudson Valley travel and tourism should be sent to editor@valleytable.com. Letters to the editor regarding magazine content are welcome and will be published as space permits. Letters should be mailed to Editor, The Valley Table, 380 Main St., Suite 201, Beacon, NY 12508, or emailed to editor@valleytable.com. To be considered for publication, letters must be signed.

THE VALLEY TABLE is published four times a year (March, June, Sept and Dec). Distribution is free at selected sites throughout the Hudson Valley or by subscription.

Subscriptions are $20 per year (4 issues). To subscribe, mail a check or money order payable to The Valley Table, 380 Main St., Suite 201, Beacon, NY 12508. We also accept payment electronically using American Express or PayPal; please visit valleytable.com for details or to purchase additional copies or back issues.

ADVERTISING INFORMATION janetc@valleytable.com

Cover photo: Jerry Novesky/The Valley Table 8

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COPYRIGHT © 2014, THE VALLEY TABLE, INC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, mechanical or electronic, without written permission of the publishers. Advertisements designed by The Valley Table are copyrighted and may not be reproduced in whole or in part without permission.

ISSN: 1257-8417

This season’s masterpieces for the oven and stove-top and your table.

Cookware that has been the mainstay of French chefs since 1925 continues to evolve. In Enameled Cast Iron, Enamel on Steel, Tri-Ply Stainless, Forged Hard-Anodized, and Stoneware. No other cookware distributes heat, browns, or caramelizes food to perfection like it. Bake, broil, braise, sauté, marinate, refrigerate and freeze in your Le Creuset. The ever expanding range continues.

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Some of the new products and colors that are perfect for the holiday season.

Cast Iron, Non-stick, Stoneware, Dinnerware. and serving pieces.

See the entire Le Creuset line now in stock.

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GOOD STUFF

M IST Y M EM ORIES

SNOW CREAM For some, it is inseparable from their childhood experience. For others, the phrase “snow cream” evokes a blank stare. The basic principles of making snow cream are simple: Mix a little dairy, a little sugar, add some flavoring, then whip into a large bowl of snow. The most traditional approach calls for fresh cream and vanilla extract. Experiment with flavors like maple syrup or

TAK IN G TH E CAK E

IT’S GALETTE DES ROIS TIME A French tradition dating back hundreds of years, the galette des rois, or king cake, commemorates the Christian feast of the Epiphany, January 6. The holiday is particularly strong in New Orleans, where hundreds, if not thousands, of the special cake will be made beginning Christmas Day. In France, the date is marked by festivities and town celebrations—and more cakes.

Though the holiday may seem less significant here, the galette des rois, produced only for a limited time once a year, is still a special treat. JeanClaude Sanchez, of Warwick’s popular patisserie of the same name, produces a galette des rois in Parisian style—a flaky puffed pastry, decorated with a gold crown, with an almond-cream filling and a special feve (a porcelain miniature imported from France) inside. The cake is available through the entire month of January.

try using almond or evaporated milk to jump start the sweetness in place of added sugars. Some warn against using the first snow of the season due to particulates in the air or contaminates on the ground. Hogwash. If you’ve made this once for your children the only requisite for them

Jean-Claude’s Patisserie 25 Elm St, Warwick (845) 986-8900; jeanclaudesbakery.com

CU R D IS TH E WOR D

REAL, GENUINE, OFFICIAL SNACK In a move designed to “continue to raise public awareness of the economic and health benefits of yogurt and the dairy industry,” Governor Andrew Cuomo announced in October that yogurt is now New York’s official snack.

The state is home to major manufacturing facilities of Greek yogurt makers Ciobani and Fage, which help make New York the top yogurt-producing state in the nation, with a total production of 741 million pounds last year. The dairy industry employs about 9,500 people statewide, up from 8,000 just four years ago. And, since you asked, the state now also leads the nation in the production of sour cream, creamed cheese and cottage cheese.

photo right : schwäbin

( wikimedia )

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A P P L A US E P LEASE

KUDOS A big round of applause to Dutchess County Tourism head Mary Kay Vrba for her efforts to promote Dutchess County and the Hudson Valley—the National Tourism Association named Dutchess County its “Favorite Culinary Destination” in the United States, based on a survey of the association’s 2,100-member tour operators. The survey results will be published in the next issue of the association’s Courier magazine (see ntaonline.com).

Ditto to Terrapin Restaurant chef/owner Josh Kroner, who copped the 2014 Victoria A. Simons Locavore Award for his educational outreach program “Kids Taste & Talk.” The class, hosted at the Rhinebeck restaurant one Saturday a month, is a free opportunity for kids ages 8 to 12 to learn about the importance of knowing where their food comes from and why it’s important to buy food from local farms.

Cooking is always part of the day.

The next class, “Festive Foods,” is set for Saturday, December 13.

Info online at terrapinrestaurant. com/kids.

BERRY DELICIOUS

THE RED RED BERRIES

CRANBERRY SORBET Ingredients 12 ounces fresh or fresh/frozen cranberries 2 cups water 2 cups granulated sugar ½ teaspoon salt Makes about 1 quart Method 1. Place all ingredients in a nonreactive pot on stove and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat and simmer until cranberries have burst and begin to fall apart. Remove from heat and allow mixture to cool slightly.

2. Purée the cranberry mixture using an immersion blender. (Or, purée in batches in a food processor or blender; use caution when blending hot liquids.)

3. Strain the purée through a mediummesh strainer and cool in refrigerator until fully chilled.

4. Transfer the cranberry syrup to an ice cream maker and process until the mixture is the consistency of thick cake batter.

5. Transfer the sorbet to a freezer-safe container and freeze overnight to allow to fully set.

New York wineries get their due, as Wine Enthusiast magazine names New York the number one wine region edging out such well-known areas as Champagne, France, and Sonoma, California. From the Hudson Valley and Finger Lakes to Long Island, there are more than 37,000 acres of vineyards and 375 wineries. “The New York wine industry has made a remarkable comeback in the past thirty years in terms of the quality of wines, number of wineries, and economic impact,” said Adam Strum, Publisher and Editor of Wine Enthusiast.

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Siena Wright, Baker Duo Bistro

The last red berries of the season, cranberries are at peak just in time for the holiday dinner table. And now you may even find locally grown cranberries cropping up at area farmers’ markets. Spotted at Montgomery Place Orchards in Annandale-on-Hudson, the berries were grown by Bard College Farm (see The Valley Table 63, Sept-Nov 2013), the valley’s largest cranberry bog. Breezy Hill Farm in Staatsburg is also selling fresh heritage cranberries at the Rhinbebeck Farmers’ Market.

The firm, plump, bright red berries are high in vitamin C and phytonutrients. They also keep extremely well. Used in sauces and relishes, cranberries offer a tart counterpoint to game meats and richly flavored poultry such as duck and, of course, turkey. In desserts, cranberries add a vibrant touch to pies, breads and ice creams.

Bard Farm cranberries made an appearance on Duo Bistro’s dessert menu during fall Hudson Valley Restaurant Week. Baker Siena Wright made a beautiful and refreshing cranberry sorbet.

Duo Bistro 50 John St., Kingston (845) 383-1198; duobistro.com

2015

E VE NT S 37TH ANNUAL YULETIDE FAIR HAWTHORNE VALLEY WALDORF SCHOOL, GHENT December 6, 10am-4pm Attendees have the opportunity to bid on and take home their favorite entries at the Gingerbread Auction while shopping for the perfect handcrafted gifts from various artisan vendors throughout the school. hawthornevalleyfarm.org COLD SPRING BY CANDLELIGHT COLD SPRING December 6, 12-5pm Tour unique and historic houses and sites in the Village of Cold Spring. Features carolers, holiday music concerts, a holiday craft fair, a farmers market and visits from Old Saint Nick. $25 for adults in advance; $35 for adults day of event; $15 for children 12 & under; Children 4 & under are free. coldspringbycandlelight.com WORK:SHOP HOLIDAY POP-UP SALE December 6 & 7 Wickham Solid Wood Studio A Valley Table sponsored event, visit the Wickham workshop for the second annual holiday sale offering handcrafted contemporary objects from twelve artisans working in the Hudson Valley and NYC. Features holiday goodies from Five Hens Bakery and Tas Café. workshop.virb.com NEWBURGH CANDLELIGHT TOURS CRAWFORD HOUSE, NEWBURGH December 14, 12-5pm The annual self-guided tour of over a dozen decorated homes kicks off at the authentically decorated 1830 Captain David Crawford House. The tour features a diverse assortment of public and private spaces showcasing Newburgh as a center of variety and beauty. $25 in advance; $30 at the door. newburghhistoricalsociety.com

CONFECT ION P ERFECT ION

SWEET TOOTH HOLIDAY In a nineteenth-century storefront nestled between a piano store and a Chinese restaurant in Newburgh, one family has been practicing the fine art of confection for almost 40 years. Through the city’s many ups and downs and transitions, Commodore Chocolatier has continued to thrive following the principle that nothing pleases people quite like candy.

Drawing a steady business year-round, Commodore’s busiest holidays are, of course, Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day and Easter. Yet November and December are perhaps the community’s most eagerly anticipated months of year, when the candy store opens its adjacent kitchen to share the magic of hand-pulled candy canes.

The Courtsunis family has entertained hundreds, sometimes thousands of people with this centuries-old craft. “In a small amount of time, you see a total transformation of a 300˚ molten mass of ingredients into a finished product,” says owner John Courtsunis.

Indeed, for the Courtsunis family, life has always been sweet. George Courtsunis, John’s father, founded Commodore Chocolatier. A classically trained confectioner, he opened his kitchen to those curious enough to ask about the candy-making process, first to school kids and later to the general public. “The phones started ringing, word spread, and we started granting requests for private parties,” John says. “Soon, a lot of neighborhood housewives and groups like the Brownies wanted to host events.” While the public candy-making demonstrations were held on Thanksgiving weekend (it’s become somewhat of a city-wide holiday tradition), the hand-made sweets are always available at the shop. Aside from the chocolates, caramels, nougats and (in season) their famous chocolate-covered strawberries, the holiday season brings out the endlessly popular candy canes and ribbon candy.

And it looks like the landmark storefront will continue its traditions for many holidays to come. Gus Courtsunis, John’s son, has been helping his dad at the shop for years. He graduated from college in May, but turned down a job in favor of continuing in the family business with “an eye toward the future.”

—SH Commodore Chocolatier 482 Broadway, Newburgh (845) 561-3960

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HEAVY CREAM

BRINGING IT ALL BACK HOME In the 1930s, Rory and Sarah Chase’s grandfather raised horses and some cows on over 350 acres of land in Pine Plains, Dutchess County, and 30 years later, their father established a dairy farm there and bred registered Holsteins. The two siblings grew up on the farm—now they’ve returned to the farm and have transformed it into one of the growing number of farmstead cow-milk creameries in the Hudson Valley.

Rory, 37, spent his childhood milking cows, tending crops, driving tractors, “and whatever else needed to be done.” He left for college 20 years ago with no plans to return. Ten years later Sarah, now 27, attended college in Ohio and, like her brother, left her agricultural roots behind. By 2007, their father had sold off most of the herd, and milk production at the farm ceased.

In the meantime, a cheese-making course at Cal Poly/ UC Davis reawakened the dairy farmer in Rory, and he returned home to establish the Amazing Real Live Food Company while breeding some heifers to grow his father’s herd. (Kombucha, a tea-based health tonic, and sauerkraut were its primary products.) He spent about a year at neighboring Ronnybrook Farm’s creamery while his ideas about cheesemaking ripened. Sarah, who graduated from college in 2010, also found her roots reawakened—she returned to New York to learn herd management at Hawthorne Valley Farm, and in 2013 she joined her brother full-time as the herd manager. And the Amazing Real Live Food Company became Chaseholm Farm Creamery.

Under Sarah’s expertise, the herd of nearly 80 cows— half of which are milkers—are hormone-free and graze rotationally on no-spray pastures to help preserve the soil integrity. Their diets are GMO-free—even the corn they eat prior to milking is non-GMO, grown and ground on the farm. Sarah breeds the cows to sustain high levels of A-2 protein, a natural component of cow’s milk, which aids in the balance of amino acids.

This digestive benefit is still present in the cheeses, as well. Chaseholm currently offers four varieties of their fromage blanc (farmer’s cheese) and eight other cheeses, including Moonlight, a Chaource-style, soft-ripened cheese rolled in sea salt and vegetable ash. (The yeastmold rind allows the cheese to age from the outside in to create the creamy, slightly crumbly center of Chaource, while the vegetable ash checks the acid-raising process and helps perfect the texture and bite that accompany the aging process. “The ash is a fun one—it’s beautiful,” Rory remarks.) Chaseholm’s best seller is Camembert, with a white, bloomy rind that acquires a buttery, smooth center as it ages. A raw-milk tomme, Stella Vallis, has a slight nutty taste encompassed in a natural rind. It’s aged as 5.5-pound wheels and sold whole or as wedges. Prices for Chaseholm cheeses range from $6 for 5 ounces of herbed farmer’s cheese to $12 for a half-pound wedge of Stella Vallis.

Chaseholm Farm cheeses and other products are available online, at the farm store and at several regional farmers’ markets.

—MH

Chaseholm Farm Creamery 100 Chase Rd., Pine Plains (518) 398-0368; chaseholmfarmcreamery.com

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E VE NT S NOFA NY WINTER CONFERENCE SARATOGA HILTON & CITY CENTER, SARATOGA SPRINGS January 23-25 The 33rd Annual Organic Farming and Gardening Conference has a theme of “Soil: The Root of the Movement.” Features an organic tradeshow, extensive workshops and keynote speakers Wes Jackson of The Land Institute and Klaas and Mary-Howell Martens of the Lakeview Organic Grain. nofany.org HUDSON VALLEY WINE & CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL PUTNAM COUNTY GOLF COURSE, MAHOPAC February 8, 11am-5pm Sip and sample wine and chocolates from throughout the Hudson Valley to find the perfect Valentine’s Day gifts. Features regional craft vendors as well.

Tickets on sale starting December 8. $25 in advance; $35 at the door. partnerswithparc.info CHEF ROBERT IRVINE LIVE UPAC, KINGSTON February 15, 7pm A high energy, interactive, multimedia and multisensory theatrical experience. Features opportunities for audience participation while observing the challenging nature of the TV show Dinner: Impossible. Chef Irvine will be available for a meet and greet after the show. $125 VIP includes Reception at 5pm; $65 Golden Circle; $45 All Seats; $40 Member; $30 Upper Balcony. bardavon.org

KICKST ART ER

SUCCESSFUL SUCCESSION It’s not news that the farming population in New York State is aging—the average age of New York State farmers is now over 57 and there are two farmers over 65 years old for every one under 35, according to the USDA Census of Agriculture. Nor is it surprising that fewer children of farmers are interested in continuing the family business, and the issue of succession—passing a farm from one generation to the next—keeps many farmers up at night.

What is news is that the state seems to be poised to help younger farmers get into the business and stay there.

The New York State New Farmers Grant Fund will offer up to $50,000 to support the production of an agricultural product. Recipients may use grant funds to finance up to 50 percent of “project costs” for “necessities,” including farm construction, expansion, acquisition of machinery, or basic supplies such as seed, root stock or fertilizer. The New York State Young Farmers Loan Forgiveness Incentive Program is targeted at students who attend and graduate from a New York State college or university and go on to operate a farm within the state for a minimum of five years. Both programs are aimed squarely at growing the number of younger farmers in the state.

The deadline for applications for the loan forgiveness program is December 15, 2014; deadline for New Farmer grant applications is January 28, 2015.

More information about the programs, as well as applications, are available online at esd.ny.gov/BusinessPrograms/NewFarmersGrantFund.html and hesc.ny.gov/pay-for-college/financial-aid/types-of-financial-aid/nys-grantsscholarships-awards/new-york-state-young-farmers-loan-forgiveness-incentiveprogram.html.

T HE NEXT GENERAT ION

GOT FARMS? A newly launched Hudson Valley Farm Link Network will offer resources for senior farmers, next generation farmers and landowners to help keep the region’s farmland in agricultural production. The Network, a partnership of 15 organizations coordinated by American Farmland Trust, aims to help connect farmers and nonfarming owners of agricultural land as well as help farm families transfer their farms to the next generation. A new website hudsonvalleyfarmlandfinder.org lists farmers looking for land and farmland owners seeking to lease or sell their land for agriculture.

updates: valleytable.com

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OPENINGS

Bluestone Bistro

Bluestone Bistro 10 IBM Rd; Poughkeepsie (845) 462-1100; bluestonebistrony.com At Poughkeepsie’s newest bistro (the reincarnation of Simply Gourmet cafe, previously in Wappingers Falls), owner Michael Polasek has teamed up with Chef Daniel Coon to offer an expanded, eclectic American menu. Entrees are generously plated, all-American meals paired with seasonal vegetables that are artfully presented. Interesting twists on old favorites like cheese fondue served with house made pretzels or saffron arancini done with an extra spicy tomato sauce. Vegetarians will find inspired options too with dishes like quinoa-stuffed acorn squash, mushroom turnovers, and zucchini-potato cakes. And in case you’re wondering, Simply Gourmet Catering remains in-house and continues servicing events throughout the Hudson Valley.

Mon-Thurs 11am to 9 pm; Fri-Sat 11am to 10 pm; Sun 4 to 9pm

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Frogmore Tavern

Hudson Room 23 South Division St, Peekskill (914) 788-3663; hudsonroom.com Opened in August, The Hudson Room is the latest venture for Chef Louis Lanza. The Peekskill foodand-music venue offers something for every palette and every ear.

Appetizers and entrees span the globe—Hudson Valley produce and cheeses (from Lanza’s family farm in Garrison), full-service sushi and sashimi offerings, seafood dishes, vegetarian, gluten-free and carnivorous offerings abound.

Live music every Friday and Saturday night, and a great online menu with nearly every dish professionally photographed.

Mon-Wed: 5pm–midnight; Thur-Sat: 5pm–2am

Frogmore Tavern 63 North Front St, Kingston (845) 802-0883; frogmoretavern.com Uptown Kingston gets a new nose-to-tail eatery, as builder George Lewandowsky (behind the complete renovation of the space) and chef Niels Nielsen (Duo Bistro) team up. At the heart of their endeavor is a passion for food. Named after Frogmore (a traditional Carolina seafood stew with a myriad of variations), frogs and froggy references appear in many forms. There are playful frog sculptures (imported from Poland) on the roof, frog legs cooked in several variations on the menu and even “swampy” cocktails at the bar. Menu items range from tappas to house cured meats to full entrees. The options change frequently depending on available ingredients and the whim of the chef. Scotch eggs, available in traditional, not-so-traditional and vegetarian options, are a notto-be-missed house specialty.

Mon-Sat noon–11pm; Sun 11am –10 pm.

OPENINGS

Port Chester Hall

Port Chester Hall & Beer Garden Port Chester Train Station, 3 Broad St, Port Chester (914) 305-8383; portchesterhall.com Located at the Port Chester train station, the sprawling Port Chester Hall includes a traditional indoor/outdoor, German-style beer garden, multiple bars, main and private dining rooms and a communal pavilion with a twosided fireplace. (For the ever-chilly or pyro-maniacal, there are two more fireplaces in the garden and the main dining room.)

Start with the beer: ten in-house brews from the brew masters behind the popular New York City chain, Heartland Brewery.

The appetizer menu offers mashups of international staples like chicken tikka masala wontons, sashimi tuna tacos, and pastrami Reuben spring rolls. Entrees are rail-straight and paired with house brews. Traditional American and German fare, vegetarian salads and burgers, and shared platters in Mediterranean and Italian styles.

Mon-Tue 4 –10 pm; Wed-Thur 4–11pm; Fri 4 pm–2am; Sat noon–2am; Sun 2–10 pm

The Corner

Ralph and Dave’s 7 Riverview Ave, Verplanck (914) 930-1708 Ralph Croteau and Dave Tuttle, who previously worked together at The Tavern at Croton Landing, have once again teamed up for a unique riverside offering in Verplanck. High on the list are traditional surf-and-turf dishes and Tuttle’s renowned pies; the Cioppino, a West-Coast seafood stew, is not to be missed. Libations include numerous local offerings and lesser-known imports.

Wed-Sat 5–10 pm; Sun 11:30am –10 pm

The Corner 53 Broadway, Tivoli (845) 757-2100; hoteltivoli.org The Corner, located at the recently renovated Hotel Tivoli, is the new home of Chef Devon Gilroy, fresh from New York City and Cape Cod. Hotel Tivoli owners, artists Brice and Helen Marden, heard about Gilroy’s desire to set up in the valley and brought him on board with a single request: “Mediterranean.” The head-totail, farm-to-table menu is sourced exclusively from over a dozen local farms. Dishes experience a lifespan of about three weeks before ingredients dwindle or a new experiment begins. The taste is sometimes Italian, sometimes French, sometimes pushed to Morocco or Greece and always with strong flavor.

Sun-Thurs 5:30 to 10 pm; Fri-Sat 5:30 to 11pm; Brunch Sat-Sun 11 to 3pm

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OPENINGS

Out of the Box at the CIA The Culinary Institute of America, in Hyde Park, will experiment with an innovative form of dining when it opens a new “pop-up” restaurant in January. We talked with Waldy Malouf, Senior Director, CIA Food & Beverage, who gave us the skinny on the new restaurant.

This “pop-up” is a new concept for the CIA. What will it be and how will it work?

[The pop-up restaurant] has become prevalent in the restaurant world and culinary world—you find it happening all over the country. We want to expose our students to it. It allows us to experiment with different types of food and service in an exciting way.

The name of the restaurant is Pangea, which is the time in the earth’s development before the continental shifts, before there were oceans. Technology has changed so much through computers, information sharing, travel-–the earth has really shrunk. That’s where the name comes from.

What type of menu will the restaurant have?

We’re developing the menu now. It’s not Euro-centric or America-centric. [The food] is a little more southern hemisphere—South America, Africa, northern Africa, India, Southeast Asia—where flavors are distinctive, pungent.

We tagged it Earth’s Flavors Reimagined—we’re reimagining how people eat. Instead of eating a 20-ounce T-bone and a couple tablespoons of spinach, we’ll do foods that incorporate more grains and vegetables. There will still be meat and seafood, but not at the center of the plate.

It puts some of the food issues of the day in a restaurant setting—it’s “conscientiously dining.” You are considering how what we eat and buy affects our health, the planet, the environment, the socio-economic situation of farmland, developing countries—how what one area does affects another area. Whether you’re talking about Southeast Asia or China—what happens there affects what’s happening here. A majority [of our students] are between 18 and 24, so we’re directing this as a great student experience, showing them how this type of food can work and how

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they will be seeing so much more of it in the future.

The prix-fixe menu will include a four-course, pre-set menu. Each course has two dishes—one plated and one served family-style. The family-style dish will come out in its cooking vessel (casserole or tagine, for example); it will be more traditional and more rustic. The one on the plate will be more refined. [There are] three savory courses, so you’ll get six dishes. Dessert will consist of Hudson Valley cheese for the table and a plated dessert, as well.

Price is $39 per person—that includes all four courses.

You’ll go online and buy a ticket ahead of time, like a show or movie. There will be staggered seating from 5:30 to 7:30 or 8. You’ll be able to make a reservation—this allows us to know exactly how many people are coming.

For vegetarians, we will adjust dishes that have animal or seafood proteins In the vein of being a pop-up restaurant, we’re using “found objects” [to furnish it]. We’ve spent a lot of time up in the attic—it’s filled with over 50 years of china, glass, silver, light fixtures, furniture, so there will be mixed silverware, plates and mixed chairs. We’re making the room pretty funky to make it exciting for our students.

This sounds like a big step for the CIA to take.

The school needs to be very current all the time, sending students out into the industry with the right knowledge and direction. This is one of the things and one of the ways that we’re doing it. It’s an almost out-of-the-box thing for the Culinary to do. It’s a performance you’re coming to—but all restaurants are a kind of performance.

Pangea will open to the public the week of January 20, 2015, Monday-Friday for dinner only. Lunch service will begin in March.

BOOKS

If you’re a farmer or chef in the Hudson Valley and even peripherally involved growing or serving up “organic,” chances are you’ve met Francesco Mastalia. The intrepid, well-traveled photographer spent the past several years traversing the region, big view camera, tripod, wet plates and processing paraphernalia in tow, recording the faces (and personalities) of the farmers and chefs at the core of the eat-local sphere. We previewed a small sample of Mastalia’s work in issue 61 (March–May 2013), and now the whole photographic project has come to fruition in Organic: Farmers and Chefs of the Hudson Valley (powerHouse Books, 2014; $49.95 hardcover). Mastalia offers up no explanations, interpretations or justifications—aside from a preface by well-known organic and sustainably-grown advocate Joan Dye Gussow, an introduction by Gail Buckland and a foreword by Mark Ruffalo, the subjects of the book present themselves in their own words. Not that they don’t have important things to say, but the real significance of the book lies in its images—large-format prints produced using a nearly-forgotten, nineteenthcentury technique that demands a motionless pose for up to 25 seconds (try it sometime). Like the portraits

in Mastalia’s previous work (with Alfonse Pagano), Dreads (Artisan, 1999; $21.95 paperback—now in its seventh printing worldwide), the faces and environments captured in Organic are unretouched, and, from the incredibly weathered and worn look of John Gorzynski to the wonderfully freckled face of Sara Lukasiewicz, the view is mesmerizing.

Dazzling in a different way is The Baking Bible (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2014; $40 hardcover), the latest tome from Rose Levy Beranbaum, who, it’s fairly safe to say, wrote the book on artisanal cake making in The Cake Bible (William Morrow Cookbooks, 1998; $35 hardcover)—a book that has justifiably garnered more accolades than we have room to list. (How good is it? Eight editions and 50 printings, that’s how good.) Like her previous work, The Baking Bible sets a high bar for clarity, wit and thoroughness.

Widely acknowledged as one of the best cookbook authors in the business, Beranbaum is noted for her ability to cut through the science to present the nitty gritty of a recipe or technique in a way that is useful

to professionals yet unintimidating to amateurs—you don’t have to be a grad student in pastry studies to understand the material. Logically divided in four major sections— Cakes; Pies, Tarts, and other Pastries; Cookies and Candy; and Breads and Yeast Pastries—no crumb goes unturned here, and supplemental texts on equipment, ingredients and sources take the mystery out of what could be deemed one of the most esoteric of the culinary arts.

Beranbaum is nothing if not energetic, and the book will likely leave you breathless (Ben Fink’s photographs, too), not from exasperation, but from running to the kitchen to get started.

Finally, if you need a gentle reminder that the holiday season is upon us, pick up Delicious December: How the Dutch Brought Us Santa, Presents, and Treats—A Holiday Cookbook (State University of New York Press, 2014; $24.95 hardcover), the latest collection of facts and food from historian and long-time Valley Table contributor Peter Rose. Most of the 100+ recipes she offers come with an historical context or story, and the book doubles as a brief primer on the Dutch pedigree of our modern holiday celebrations and the significant influence Dutch cuisine has had on our contemporary holiday foods.

—JN

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THE CORBIN HILL FOOD PROJECT

making things happen text and photos by tracy frisch

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hen new school university

professor Dennis Derryck, 73, jumped into his ambitious social experiment to grow fruits and vegetables for underserved populations in New York City, he admittedly knew nothing about farming, but thanks to his tenacity and his willingness to modify unworkable ideas, the project has become wildly successful—which is only fitting for this charismatic academic whose life of engagement includes teaching students how to make things happen.

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Now completing its fifth year of operation, the Corbin Hill Food Project sends two tractor-trailers weekly to the Big Apple during its 25-week harvest season (over the winter deliveries are monthly). The mission-driven venture aims to provide fresh produce to communities that lack adequate access. It’s already reaching thousands of inner city New Yorkers, many of them plagued by food insecurity.

Derryck’s original idea involved hiring an organic farmer to grow at Corbin Hill Farm, in Schoharie County, a long-neglected, historic farm that he and his wife purchased specifically for the venture. In retrospect, Derryck admits his initial strategy never could have succeeded in a reasonable timeframe. “Very quickly, Derryck realized a better strategy—rather than growing produce for New York City on the farm, [he would] source it from people who have been doing it for centuries,” explains Haider Garzon, Corbin Hill’s buyer and farmer liaison. This change in course opened up a seemingly unlimited supply of produce from agricultural producers concentrated in Schoharie County, but ranging as far as the Finger Lakes, Syracuse and Rochester.

With a population of only 32,000, the rural county where Corbin Hill is located is far richer in farmland than people. (Because of its geography and relative lack of prosperity, the federal government classifies the county as part of the Appalachian region for aid purposes.)

Superficially resembling a Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) project, the Corbin Hill Project aggregates products directly from upstate farms, then sends shares to dozens of distribution sites in four of New York City’s five boroughs. Over the 2014 season, Corbin Hill provided around 1,100 farmshares a week, though Derryck envisions expanding to 5,000—or even 10,000—shares in the near future. A newer Corbin Hill project, the Community Health Partners program, wholesales similarly sourced foods to clinics, food pantries, soup kitchens, schools and other venues, with the primary goal of reaching underserved, low-income populations.

At the onset, Derryck designed Corbin Hill as a for-profit venture. He bought the farm outright, then recruited colleagues, friends and family members to invest in it as a limited liability corporation (LLC). The group consisted of “ordinary people trying to do extraordinary things—people who might think [I’m] crazy, but trusted me,” Derryck notes. Using that equity, Derryck and several others co-signed loans to cover startup costs.

“By us putting up the funds, we could decide our values and stay on mission,” he stresses. When Corbin Hill became a not-for-profit, “It had just enough oomph that foundations would look at us,” he says. Payments from shareholders and sales through the wholesale program still don’t cover expenses, but foundation and government grants are increasing as the project’s capacity and impact grows.

Sarah Blood, who runs the marketing arm of Schoharie County’s economic development efforts, gives Corbin Hill high marks for bridging the divide between the upstate farmers and the urban consumers. “We have an abundance of produce, but not the markets or logistical means to get it to them,” she says. “Corbin Hill is a great asset organizationally and it has the resources to reach the larger market.”

Blood has witnessed Corbin Hill in action at its distribution sites. Her assessment: “It’s remarkable.”

Derryck says they found an enormous need for fresh produce in Harlem and the South Bronx. In fact, with a population about 700,000, Harlem had just two CSAs serving 75 households.

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We keep talking about building a socially just value chain, but we never talk about farmers and other workers in the chain.

“Some of the obstacles to operating a CSA in predominantly low-income communities became obvious in designing their program,” he says.

“If I were a low-income person on SNAP, why would I want to pay for my food three months in advance? Why would I want to share the risk with the farmer or be part of something where, if I need to be out of town for a week, I lose my money?”

Asking the right questions made the solutions clear. “At Corbin Hill, you pay one week in advance. You can put your share on hold, join or drop out at any time—if money is left over in your account, we will refund it.” There’s also flexibility to up- or downgrade share size or change pickup sites. An even bigger draw is the income-based subsidy: For those making less than 200 percent of the poverty level, Corbin Hill provides a monetary match, making for a half-price deal. Eligibility is determined on the honor system.

A pivotal moment for Corbin Hill occurred in January 2010, when Cornell professor Anu Rangarajan, who directed the institution’s small farms program, introduced Derryck to Richard Ball, of Schoharie Valley Farms, at the Northeast Organic Farming Association of New York’s (NOFA-NY) annual conference. “After four hours, we got up from lunch and Richard said, ‘I’m going to make this work,’” Derryck recalls. Ball, who became the state’s Commissioner of Agriculture three years later, has been a major factor in Corbin Hill’s success. His farm has been an important anchor for the project, as both a primary supplier and its operational home.

Corbin Hill receives, stores and packs its shipments at the Carrot Barn, Ball’s retail outlet and packing facility.

During the first week of distribution in early June, the aggregation site—the windowless warehouse of the Carrot Barn—is awhirl with activity. Brightly colored plastic bins stuffed with truly farm-fresh vegetables are piled everywhere. Readying the produce to load onto the super-size, New York City-bound truck means restacking, and sometimes repacking, every single bin onto pallets destined for individual distribution sites. The young employees glide around the crowded room with bins in their arms or piled onto carts; now and then someone slows to a standstill, consults a clipboard, greets farmers delivering orders, or huddles with a colleague.

In an unusual display of loyalty, Corbin Hill’s entire warehouse crew from 2013—mainly college students and locals—returned to their seasonal jobs in 2014. Now with two weekly deliveries to the city, the project was able to put them on a Friday-through-Wednesday workweek, up from part-time. Their hourly wage of $11 makes it one of the better entry-level jobs in the rural, low-wage area. Every Corbin Hill employee also receives a farmshare.

One young man notes that Corbin Hill pays nearly $4 an hour more than his old job at a chain supermarket did, and he doesn’t have to adjust his life to a different work schedule every week or the whims of arbitrary managers. Plus, he says, at Corbin Hill he is able to take pride in contributing to society.

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What blew our minds is that we were getting food to 4,000 people a week through wholesale.

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Fair pay and good working conditions are high priorities for Derryck. “We keep talking about building a socially just value chain, but we never talk about farmers and other workers in the chain,” he stresses. He ascribes his ethic to the influence of his mother, an entrepreneur who joined the Peace Corps at age 65. His family emigrated to the U.S. from Trinidad when he was a teenager, and here he found himself drawn into the arena of economic justice. Among his early involvements was helping to win the court-ordered integration of the sheet metal workers union, ending 79 years of exclusion of blacks and Latinos.

More recently, Derryck set his sights on food justice. As the founding board chair of WE ACT for Environmental Justice, he says the West Harlem organization’s staff educated him about food issues and projects such as school gardens and rooftop farms. Yet, he says he still thought the initiatives were too small to make a significant difference.

Corbin Hill cannot pay top dollar to farmers, Garzon explains, but its prices come in above major wholesale markets like Hunts Point—if a case of lettuce there brings $16, Corbin Hill might pay $24. Moreover, the price Corbin Hill pays varies from farmer to farmer, depending on factors like growing practices (organic produce commands a higher price than, for example, produce grown using Integrated Pest Management, or IPM, methods), and whether the farmer delivers or Corbin Hill picks up. Garzon, a native of Colombia, says the program isn’t exclusively organic because there isn’t enough product available and “the prices just aren’t there.” For the farmshares, he favors IPM produce, with its presumably lower pesticide levels; Corbin Hill does buy conventional produce for wholesale distribution.

At first, Corbin Hill purchased 95 percent of the produce it distributed from just two substantial vegetable producers, both blessed with the same superb bottomland soils. One was Ball’s farm; the other, Barber’s Farm, located farther down along the Schoharie Creek, is a 500-acre former dairy farm, a third of which now is in mixed vegetables. As demand grew and the project developed more capacity, many other growers have come on board—these two big local growers now account for about 50 percent of the volume of produce.

Corbin Hill serves as the “main and only vehicle for tapping into any New York City market” for Barber’s Farm, according to Jake Hooper, the farm’s vice president for field production and wholesale. “They approached us, along with other Schoharie Valley farmers. It seemed like a really good opportunity, trying to bridge the gap between supply and demand.” Shifts in consumer behavior have pushed Barber’s Farm to alter its production and storage methods, Hooper notes. “We changed a lot and changed quickly,” he says. “It used to be [our customers] would come in October and buy potatoes by the 50-pound bag—often 15 to 20 bags of them. Now people are shopping [just] for that day. We’re trying to do for them what they used to do for themselves.” To meet customers’

needs, the farm stores potatoes and other root crops, freezes vegetables and grows hardy greens all winter in an unheated greenhouse, and the farm store is now open year-round.

Frederick Wellington, who runs Wellington’s Herbs and Spices with his wife on his upland farm in the town of Schoharie, was happy to join the project to counteract the “food deserts” in the Bronx and upper Manhattan.

“Dennis had heard about us when he was searching for produce,” Wellington says. “People [in the city] who don’t take the bus or have a car depend on bodegas around the corner. With Corbin Hill, they’re getting food picked on a Sunday and delivered on Monday.” The native of Grenada says the ethnic composition of Corbin Hill’s clientele is fuelling changes at his farm, as well. “When I came here in the 1980s, nobody in Schoharie County knew what collard greens were,” he says. “Some of the things we grow now are a result of very high Hispanic, Caribbean and southern black populations.” Wellington predicts that within several years, area growers will be cultivating another unfamiliar vegetable called callaloo, an amaranth almost identical to the nuisance pigweed and an important cooking green in Caribbean cuisine.

Oneonta native Francis Carter manages the packinghouse at Corbin Hill and wears a second hat as a graphic designer. He discovered the project as a grad student at Parsons School of Design, where he was writing his thesis on how to connect upstate farms with downstate consumers. Carter started out at Corbin Hill running some of the distribution sites in the city. “Working with the sites was frustrating, emotional and great,” he recalls. “When trucks were late, shareholders would take the crates and start to unload them themselves because they were so behind our mission.”

Carter, who admits his jobs have ranged from awful (in fast food joints) to inspirational (at grocery stores that source vegetables locally), commends Corbin Hill’s social values and commitment. “I grew up on food stamps, so I really appreciate that we will not turn away any customer,” he says, noting the project is “a ‘we-effort,’ not a ‘me-effort,’” that doesn’t rely “on Whole Foods or Price Chopper to galvanize change in the community.”

When he landed the warehouse manager job, Carter used his design background to introduce new systems so the organization would have the capacity to scale up. And scale up it did: The number of farmshares has jumped from 200 to 1,200 and the overall throughput has at least tripled in the three years he’s held the seasonal job. In 2014, Corbin Hill expanded distribution into Queens and Brooklyn.

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We also work with food pantries and soup kitchens, like the Partnership for the Homeless in East New York, Brooklyn—it’s farm-to-soup kitchen.

Despite this rapid growth, Corbin Hill hasn’t always been able to meet its objectives. “We started a farmshare program at a Head Start [site]—but none of the parents could afford it,” Derryck recalls.

“Our farmshares at the Fortune Society and Women’s Economic Development Corporation failed. In 2013, out of 872 shareholders in Harlem and the Bronx, only 14 percent met our mission” of delivering food to those who need it most. No matter what tact organizers took, he says, the farmshare model wasn’t catching on among the poor and economically insecure.

As a direct result of these perceived failures, Derryck realized the project could more effectively reach key populations by using the institutions that already served them, and created the Community Health Partners program, Corbin Hill’s wholesale component.

By 2013, more than a third of Corbin Hill’s sales were to wholesale sites.

“When we started counting, what blew our minds is that we were getting food to 4,000 people a week through wholesale,” Derryck reports.

Bronx Lebanon Hospital is by far the strongest of Corbin Hill’s Community Health Partners, according to Stefanie Zaitz, who coordinates the effort. Since 2012, the hospital has provided more than 50 tons of fruits and vegetables to needy families. The hospital has a standing order with Corbin Hill for 160 pre-bagged shares a week, destined for clinics or other sites in the hospital’s network where health promoters do demonstrations and nutrition awareness presentations. Participants get rewarded with a farmshare. This year, Corbin Hill began offering $8 bagged shares through its Community Connect program. “It’s a way to connect incredibly vulnerable communities to upstate New York farms,” Zaitz says. “We also work with food pantries and soup kitchens, like the Partnership for the Homeless in East New York, Brooklyn—it’s farm-tosoup kitchen,” a development she finds “awesome.”

There’s also a more recent breakthrough with considerable potential to expand Corbin Hill’s impact among the low-income elderly. “We were tagged as the vendor for two different senior centers north of 96th Street through the office of Manhattan Borough President Gale Brewer,” Zaitz says. Brewer’s existing bag program has operated for years, but only below 96th Street, which Zaitz calls unacceptable. “Harlem and Washington Heights had been entirely overlooked,” she notes.

Zaitz, a fifth-generation farmer from central Pennsylvania, typifies the hands-on problem-solving approach and social commitment underscoring each component of the Corbin Hill project. Perhaps not surprisingly, Derryck was her thesis advisor at The New School University, where she studied Environmental Policy and Sustainable Management. “I think my future is on my farm,” she admits, “but for now I’m on the front lines.”

4 Corbin Hill Food Project (718) 578-3610 corbinhillfoodproject.org

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all in the families

text by leslie coons photos by ann stratton and ethan harrison

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h e n b o b b a x t e r , o f t h e r . l . b a x t e r b u i l d i n g c o r p ., approached brothers Chris and Daniel Crocco in 2013 about opening a restaurant, he already had made significant real estate investments in Poughkeepsie. He was eyeing an historic building on Mill Street that housed the Mill House Panda, a Chinese restaurant. The Crocco brothers were working just a few blocks away at Brasserie 292—Chris as general manager and Daniel as executive chef. Jamie Bishop and Larry Stock, two longtime home brewers, had successfully set up a one-barrel brewery in Bishop’s basement (they called it Bilco Brewery) and were sharing their craft beers with the brothers at the Brasserie. “I remember bringing 13 beers to audition for the restaurant,” Bishop recalls.

top photo ethan harrison ; bottom photo ann stratton

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After an eight-month renovation of the historic building and steady, planned growth, the Mill House Brewing Company celebrated its first anniversary in November as “a complete Hudson Valley dining experience.”

Enthusiasm abounds in the kitchen, in the brewery and in the dining spaces. The executive roster of the enterprise reads like a family reunion guest list: Chris and Daniel Crocco are general manager and executive chef, respectively; Jamie Bishop and Larry Stock are the brew masters; and Eric and Amanda Baxter are proprietors.

Two words sum up the vibe: “We are having fun and our passion shows in everything,” Bishop says.

The Mill House Brewing Company is the third restaurant to occupy the 1836 building and its first brewery—oddly, the building never housed a mill. “This was the largest house on Mill Street,” Chris Crocco says, noting the site had two elements that made it perfect for a brew house: “Here we have an historic building— and a large parking lot.”

Much of the renovation of the building stripped away contemporary alterations and exposed elements of the historic structure. The crew reused and repurposed what they could: the wood-fired pizza oven is made from leftover brick, and heavy wooden supports used in the first floor dining room came from elsewhere in the building. Bluestone removed from the front of the downtown Bardavon Opera House was incorporated, as well. A few interesting artifacts turned up during the renovation, too, including a menu offering onion soup for 25 cents, a remnant of the building’s first restaurant. (As a nod toward posterity, the renovators set a 2013 quarter in the mortar of the pizza oven.) The brewering tanks are housed in an addition, and “we got a

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photos this page ann stratton

a flight of mill house brewing company beer QUEEN CITY CREAM ALE A light-bodied cream ale—dry, clean and crisp. Uses tworow barley, six-row barley, corn and rice to create a beer.

Liberty hops are used sparingly as a bittering addition.

PK PALE ALE This pale ale stays true to its roots by keeping the hops in check. Two-row base malt accentuated with Victory, Munich, and red wheat and balanced by a schedule of American “C” hops.

ALPHA High-alpha American hops flood this amber ale. Two-row base with CaraAmber and Victory build a malt profile that stands up to the hop schedule.

second-floor patio because we needed more clearance for the brewery,” Daniel Crocco notes.

Each of the restaurant’s dining areas has a distinctive vibe. The second floor is decked out in French Country décor, while the third floor features a barrel ceiling and heavy farm tables. The restaurant seats about 250 total, with space for hosting private parties. “You can eat here three times a day and get a different experience each time,” Stock says. “You have a view of the Walkway Over the Hudson and five steeples. It is very historic.”

Bishop and Stock produced 609 barrels—20 different beers—in their first year at Mill House. Production includes trying new recipes and tweaking old ones—they tried 30 variations of their stout recipe, four different IPAs (India Pale Ale) and five seasonal beers before they were satisfied. The current bestseller is Köld, a Kölsch-like, straw-colored ale they call their “gateway craft beer.” Runner-up is the IPA. Bishop notes that Matthew Vassar, who founded nearby Vassar College in 1861, was a major brewer of his time. “It has been more than 100 years since there has been a brewery in Poughkeepsie—and this is a beer town,” he says, adding, “The terroir of the water [in Poughkeepsie] is great for beer.”

In late fall, Bishop, Stock and the Crocco brothers gathered to taste a new beer, Imperial Maple Pumpkin Ale, made to honor the brothers’ late grandfather, who operated a sugar shack for maple syrup in Brewster. The brew masters currently are working with area historians to recreate a 100-year-old ale recipe originating from the Hudson Valley that features floor-malted barley, local honey and Demerara sugar, a project especially appealing to Bishop, whose academic background is in anthropology and history.

KILT SPINNER A malty beer aged on oak, complex and warm. Two-row base with Munich, Crystal 40, and Carafa II with a touch of Black Patent, all balanced with a simple Fuggles schedule.

DERAILLEUR This beer switches gears (get it?) to bring a hop-centric beer in a dark-as-night package. Two-row base with Black Patent, Munich and acidulated malt are joined by Simcoe, Columbus and Centennial hops.

VELVET PANDA NITRO-STOUT This award-winning stout has a velvety mouth feel and nicely balanced bitterness. Two-row base, roasted barley, Carafa II, flaked oats, flaked barley, chocolate malt, and Black Patent malt are balanced with a simple schedule of American “C” hops.

photo above ethan harrison ; photo right ann stratton

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FIG-AND-PIG PIZZA DANIEL CROCCO, MHBC Ingredients 4 single-bone or boneless beef short ribs prepared dough to make 1 pizza 1/3 cup grated Fontina 1/3 cup grated aged provolone 2 tablespoons smoked mozzarella, diced ½ cup or ¼ pound smoked duck bacon, sliced 8 dried black mission figs, cut in half 1 tablespoon scallions, sliced 1 cup baby arugula 1 tablespoon aged balsamic serves 2 to 4 Method Place a pizza stone in the oven and preheat oven to 500˚F. 1. Stretch pizza dough until it is 12- to 14-inches round.

2. Place on wooden peel and generously sprinkle cheeses evenly over top of dough. Repeat with duck bacon, figs, and scallions.

3. Place on pizza stone and bake with oven door closed at 500˚F for 6 to 7 minutes.

4. Turn oven to low broil and slightly open oven door. Bake an additional 3 to 4 minutes.

5. Remove pizza from oven and let rest for 2 minutes.

6. Sprinkle with baby arugula and drizzle with aged balsamic.

Slice as desired.

At the Mill House, however, the beer doesn’t just flow from taps. It’s also in the food. Chef Daniel Crocco has embraced the brews, and incorporates beer in many of his crowd-pleasing dishes, including beer-and-cheddar brats made with PK Pale Ale; a barbecue pulled-pork sandwich with 16-hour smoked pork shoulder smothered in Kilt Spinner Beer BBQ sauce; and fish and chips with Alpha Ale-battered Atlantic cod and duck-fat Belgian fries. The 27-year-old chef, a Culinary Institute grad, has worked in the food industry since he was 14. He spent five years immersed in the world of local, seasonal and sustainable food while working with esteemed chef Melissa Kelly, formerly of Old Chatham Sheepherding Company in Columbia County. He also credits his stint at Brasserie 292 (“It was like working in 14 different restaurants,” he says).

He sources local products through Red Barn Produce, in Highland, and gets chickens from John Fazio Farms, in Modena. (On the other hand, Bishop notes, sourcing consistently high-quality local ingredients for their volume of beer production has been an issue. In the mid-1800s, New York ruled the nation in hop production, but today much of the growing has shifted elsewhere. “I am a hops hound,” he says. “It is hard for a new brewery to get good hops right away.”)

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photos ethan harrison

VELVET PANDA STOUT–BRAISED SHORT RIBS DANIEL CROCCO, MHBC SHORT RIBS

Ingredients 4 single-bone or boneless beef short ribs salt and pepper to taste 1 cup diced mirepoix (onion, carrot and celery) 2 cloves garlic 2 sprigs thyme 3 cups veal or beef stock 2 cups Mill House Brewing Company Velvet Panda Stout serves 4 Method Preheat oven to 325˚F. 1. Season each short rib with salt and pepper and either brown in a large skillet until golden brown on each side or grill until desired grill marks appear.

2. Place short ribs in a heavy braising pot and add the remaining ingredients. Bring to a boil over high heat.

3. When the mixture comes to a boil, remove from heat, cover with aluminum foil and place in a 325˚F oven until fork tender, about 4 to 5 hours.

PURÉE

Ingredients 2 Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and diced 1 large celeriac (celery root), peeled and diced 1½ cups water 1½ cups milk 2 tablespoons butter salt and pepper to taste

Of course, where there’s beer there’s pork, and the restaurant uses a lot of it. In addition to the pulled pork, chops and ribs, from 200 to 300 pounds per week go into house-made sausage. Most of the pork comes from a sustainable farm in Pennsylvania, and occasionally from the Meiller Farm and Slaughterhouse in Pine Plains. For take-home preparation, a refrigerated display case offers sausage, smoked ribs, brisket and pulled pork for sale.

The goal at The Mill House now is to “keep improving, keep growing,” says 33-year-old Chris Crocco, who turned to a career in restaurant management after studying finance at Siena College. He’s convinced that working with his brother and other partners here—where he grew up—was the right move at the right time. “I worked for three years at the Copacabaña building when it was on 10 East 60th Street in New York City,” he says, “and I hear more stories about this [Mill House] building. There are so many great memories about this locale. People from all walks of life, all ages, come in to enjoy the same thing: an amazing dining experience. And the beer is great.”

Method 1. Place potatoes and celeriac in a pot with the water and milk. Boil until fork tender.

2. Remove from heat. Strain liquid and reserve.

3. Purée the cooked vegetables in food processor with the butter; adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

4. Add the reserved liquid until the purée is smooth but not runny.

VEGETABLES

Ingredients 1 tablespoon butter 2 cups cipollini onions, peeled 8 to 10 baby carrots, peeled ¼ cup veal or beef stock 1 tablespoon prepared horseradish Method 1. In large sauté pan, melt butter and sauté onions and carrots until golden brown on the outside and tender inside.

2. Add veal or beef stock and horseradish. Stir well and continue to cook until the liquid is reduced and a sticky glaze forms around vegetables.

To serve: Plate the short ribs, purée and vegetables together.

Mill House Brewing Company 289 Mill St, Poughkeepsie (845) 485-2739; millhousebrewing.com

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“MOST ROMANTIC RESTAURANT”

—TIMES HERALD RECORD READER POLL, 2014

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We Start Fresh Every Day!

MADE FRESH DAILY AT ALL LOCATIONS NEWBURGH

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MIDDLETOWN

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CENTRAL VALLEY

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POUGHKEEPSIE

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A new American cuisine with an Italian twist!

276 Main Street Beacon, NY 845.440.0050 | www.cafeamarcord.coM Open for lunch & dinner Tuesday Thru Sunday

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DRINK

text by timothy buzinski photos by ann stratton

P

return of the green fairy I I I I I I

am am am am am am

the instigator of crime ruin and sorrow shame dishonor death absinthe

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It didn’t take long for this flavorful and potent elixir— easily 130 proof in some cases—to gain popularity, and it made an easy jump from the medicinal realm to the recreational domain. Spurred by the industrial revolution, absinthe was embraced by the working class, then poets, writers, artists and “bohemians” alike. French poet Charles Baudelaire was a known imbiber, as was Oscar Wilde, who penned notes describing his experiences. It was regularly depicted and consumed by painters from Degas to Manet to van Gogh, whose partial ear removal is attributed to an absinthe session. The obsession swept through most of Europe and England, eventually taking hold on this side of the ocean, most intensely in New Orleans, where absinthe cocktails such as the Sazerac and Cocktail a la Louisiane were spawned.

Despite the popularity of the cocktails, the most common way of enjoying the drink was to dilute it with water and perhaps sugar. In addition to lowering the alcohol level, the addition of water begins the louche (clouding) of the drink when the herbal oils, trapped through distillation, begin to emulsify, which releases aromatic notes that otherwise would be indiscernible. Right into the early twentieth century, the ritual of pouring water over a sugar cube nesting in a special spoon over the glass was, no doubt, enjoyed as much as the pleasure derived from sipping.

However, the fascination with absinthe was shortlived—absinthe became, in a way, a victim of its own success. Imitations were developed, some of which used toxic ingredients to replicate the spirit’s color. Spurred by the temperance movement, fabricated reports of hallucinations, psychedelic experiences and even insanity were attributed to absinthe. Disregarding the fact that the general culture of the day tended toward heavy alcohol consumption, absinthe easily became the scapegoat for the decadence of a generation that drank to excess, clearly illustrated in the case of a Swiss workman, Jean Lanfray.

After having consumed several liters of wine and other spirits over the course of a day, Lanfray killed his family in a rage. The tragedy and subsequent trial were infamously dubbed the “Absinthe Murder” when psychologists described his actions as classic absinthe-induced madness.

(In fact, Lanfray had consumed just two ounces of absinthe during his hard-drinking day.) Within five years, the Green Fairy, as absinthe had been named, was banned in Switzerland and, shortly thereafter, on a nearly global scale.

Fast-forward a century—absinthe is once again poised to have its moment in the spotlight. Thanks to modern analysis techniques and a renewed interest, absinthe became available again in Europe and, in 2007, here in the U.S., as well. Much of the credit goes to T. A. Breaux, who realized the laws regarding its ban in this country focused on thujone, a compound extracted from wormwood.

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do the absinthe drip 1 ounce absinthe 1 sugar cube (traditional, but optional) 5 ounces ice cold water

This ratio of absinthe to water is based on an absinthe bottled at roughly 68 percent alcohol; use less water if the absinthe is lower proof. Also, use more or less water depending upon your personal preference.

Start with less; add more to taste. Wildly extravagant absinthe glasses are available, though a rocks glass is fine.

Place the absinthe in a glass. Place the sugar cube (if using) on an absinthe spoon (or a small tea strainer) positioned over the glass.

Slowly pour or drip the water over the cube (or straight into the absinthe if you forego the sugar).

Southside Sazerac JASON STEINBERG, SAINT GEORGE

Corpse Reviver #2 CASSIE FELLET, ROCK & RYE TAVERN

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Through analysis of ancient recipes, Breaux was able to prove that thujone levels in absinthe were well under the legal maximum, and he was thus allowed to import and sell his brand in this country. This opened the door for distillers here to begin experimenting with their own versions of absinthe.

Roughly a year after the Delaware River flooded the western Catskills’ village of Walton (Delaware County), Cheryl Lins began her pursuit to open a distillery in a downtown storefront. After working her way through zoning issues, purchasing an inexpensive still and filing the proper documents, nothing happened. After waiting several months, she finally “had to write the governor” (David Paterson at the time), and shortly thereafter, in February 2009, she received her license to operate and began to process whiskey at Delaware Phoenix Distillery.

After testing multiple formulas, she decided to release two absinthes, based on classic, “pre-ban” recipes—Walton Waters, which projects masculinity through the structured anise notes, and Meadow of Love, which wafts a floral femininity that begs for repeated nosing. Both have received widespread praise from professionals and the press.

Lins came to absinthe in her mature years; Juan Garza, on the other hand, was fascinated with the drink before he reached drinking age. “English classes, literature and typical things, people bringing up Oscar Wilde, poets referring to absinthe—it was a word I had heard but no one could give me an answer about,” he recalls. He began researching and studying, eventually making his way to Europe where he learned to distill it using classic equipment and to better understand the intricacy of absinthe production. Garza eventually joined Tuthilltown Spirits, in Gardiner, as Research & Development Distiller.

Garza and Tuthilltown’s Chief Distiller Joel Elder are crafting a duo of yet-unnamed absinthes they refer to simply as White 58° and Green 72°. White, redolent with fennel and licorice notes, is lower in alcohol than some other absinthes; Green is layered and complex, with anise and fennel notes interplaying with lemon balm and wormwood. The first release will be clear absinthe, a style frequently referred to as La Bleue. (Popular in Switzerland, uncolored absinthes became a convenient way to disguise the spirit when it was banned.)

Jason Steinberg, owner of Saint George, a classically French restaurant in Hastings-on-Hudson, serves absinthe in the traditional manner—he’s even devoted space on the bar for an absinthe fountain. He has tasted the beta versions of both Tuthilltown absinthes and says he is pleased with the quality. “It’s almost blue,” he says with surprise while louching the White. “It’s much drier and lighter in flavor than the classics we use from France.” The Green, though, “tastes like your flagship absinthe—a classic. The anise, the wormwood is

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under that, and the fennel is there but it’s not sweet.”

The challenge for distillers is to create quality absinthe that will offer enthusiasts a consistent experience. This, of course, starts with the ingredients—wormwood, anise, hyssop, melissa and fennel, among others. While all these ingredients are available at markets, getting consistently high-quality ingredients is critical. “When you have a sensitivity to organoleptics as opposed to just commodity,” Elder remarks, while Garza finishes the thought, “you learn what those herbs can and can’t do.”

Both Delaware Phoenix and Tuthilltown source locally and from around the world: wormwood grown to spec from New York and Virginia, fennel from Italy, anise from Spain. (Despite going to lengths to assure the quality of the ingredients, one batch of herbs may be different from another, thus requiring tweaks by the distiller.) Restaurateurs, too, are concerned about consumers’ experience of absinthe.

“Customers rush in with a head full of bad information and misconceptions,” says Cassie Fellet, owner of Rock & Rye Tavern, in New Paltz. “Few are prepared for the flavor intensity or alcohol content of even diluted absinthe. I would much rather introduce them to it slowly.” So Fellet incorporates the green elixir into cocktails. “I’ve never had a customer dislike either a Corpse Reviver #2 or a Sazerac,” she says.

All this is good news, Steinberg says— when consumers are introduced to quality absinthe, properly prepared or in a cocktail, they respond positively. “It’s fun for people—they’ve never seen this before,” he notes. “We didn’t expect to sell much absinthe, but it’s really taken off. As soon as someone sees one being made, everyone wants one. We’re moving through a lot of absinthe—it’s a lot of fun.”

With at least four locally produced absinthes available this winter, there’s much to be excited about, but there is more to be done. An improved “herb infrastructure,” for instance, could help distillers develop unique and more focused expressions; and allowing these absinthes to rest for a period before consumption would more clearly let them develop and demonstrate their individual characters.

Finally, there’s the ongoing process of educating consumers, most of whom “don’t know what good absinthe is,” Garza notes. “They don’t know how sweet and approachable it can be. She’s an old beauty we’re all learning over again.”

4 Delaware Phoenix Distillery 144 Delaware St, Walton (607) 865-5056; delawarephoenix.com Tuthilltown Spirits 14 Grist Mill Ln, Gardiner (845) 255-1527; tuthilltown.com

EATING BY THE SEASON

SIX SOUPS

fig. 2 fig. 1

fig. 3

fig. 4

fig. 5

fig. 6

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY MARISSA SERTICH VELIE

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FRENCH ONION SOUP GRATINÉ DANA CALABRESE, SHIP LANTERN INN Ingredients 4 tablespoons olive oil 2 large red onions, thinly sliced 2 large white (Vidalia) onions, thinly sliced 2 large shallots, thinly sliced 4 cups beef broth 4 cups chicken broth 1½ cups sherry 3 bay leaves salt and pepper to taste 4 thick slices French bread 4 slices Gruyere cheese 4 slices Provolone cheese serves 4 Method 1. Heat olive oil in a large pot over medium-high heat.

2. Stir in the sliced onions and shallots. Cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are caramelized and almost syrupy.

3. Add beef broth, chicken broth, sherry and bay leaves to the pot.

Simmer over medium heat for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Season with salt and pepper to taste.

4. Cover and keep hot over low heat while preparing the bread.

5. Preheat broiler.

6. Arrange the bread slices on a baking sheet and broil 3 minutes— turning once—until well-toasted on both sides.

Remove from the broiler (leave broiler on).

7. Arrange 4 large, oven-safe bowls or crocks on a rimmed baking sheet.

Fill each bowl 2/3 full with the hot soup mixture.

8. Top each bowl with 1 slice each of toasted bread, Gruyere and Provolone.

9. Place soups under broiler for 2 minutes or until bubbly and golden brown. Serve immediately.

Ship Lantern Inn 1725 Route 9W, Milton (845) 795-5400

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1 At the historic Ship Lantern Inn in Milton, hospitality is the key ingredient in every meal. Owner Michael Foglia and chef Dana Calabrese work together to preserve the 89-year-old restaurant’s old-fashioned charm and create timeless dishes for its classic menu. Don’t confuse traditional with ordinary, though—the chef’s French onion soup is a comforting classic that offers plenty of rich flavor. Rather than using a single variety of onion, Calabrese combines red onion, white onion and shallots to create complexity and various levels of sweetness. The flavor of the slowcooked caramelized onions is enhanced with a topping of toast and a mound of melted Gruyere and Provolone. The slightly salty, butteriness compliments the deep and savory broth. Foglia suggests pairing the soup with a crisp Riesling. “A semi-dry, dry or Alsatian Riesling is light and not too sweet, so it will pick up the flavors of the onions and cheese, but won’t overpower it.”

photo left jerry novesky

GOLDEN NUGGET SQUASH SOUP

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JOSH KRONER, TERRAPIN RESTAURANT Ingredients 7 pounds golden nugget squash 1 cup water 2 tablespoons safflower oil 1 pound Spanish onions, chopped 2 tablespoons chopped garlic 2 tablespoons chopped ginger 1 cup white wine 1 14-ounce can coconut milk 2 stalks lemongrass, finely chopped and wrapped in a cheesecloth bundle 1 teaspooncground galangal* (or substitute ground ginger) 8 cups vegetable stock (or substitute chicken stock) salt and pepper to taste serves 14 *Galangal is a pungent Asian root related to ginger, commonly used in Thai cuisine.

It can be found fresh and dried in Asian markets or online.

Method Preheat oven to 350˚F. 1. Cut squash in half, scoop out and discard seeds and strings.

Place squash halves cut-side-down on a sheet pan or rimmed cookie sheet.

2. Pour water into the pan with the squash and carefully place in oven.

3. Cook for approximately 45 minutes, or until a knife passes easily through the squash. Remove from oven and let cool.

4. With a large metal spoon, scrape the squash flesh out of the rind. Put the flesh into a large bowl and set aside.

5. Heat a large stockpot over medium heat. Add the safflower oil, then the onions, garlic and ginger. Cook until onions are soft.

6. Add white wine and continue to cook until the liquid is almost evaporated.

7. Add the squash flesh, coconut milk, lemon grass, galangal and stock to the pot and bring to a boil.

8. Reduce heat and simmer for 2 hours, stirring frequently.

9. Remove lemongrass bundle, season to taste with salt and pepper.

10. Blend in batches until smooth.

Serve hot. Top with a dollop of sour cream if desired.

Terrapin Restaurant 6426 Montgomery St, Rhinebeck (845) 876-3330

photo left todd spire

For Josh Kroner, chef/owner of Terrapin Restaurant in Rhinebeck, developing recipes that cater to various dietary needs is key to a successful menu. His golden nugget squash soup substitutes coconut milk for heavy cream to create a flavorful vegan option—like cream, coconut milk offers rich and creamy texture that compliments the squash, giving it a full and satisfying body. Inspired by the flavor of the coconut, Kroner steeps lemongrass in the soup for over an hour, imparting delicate lemony notes and a nod to Southeast Asian flavors.

Rather than pumpkin or butternut squash, Kroner prefers to use golden nugget squash.

“Pumpkins are very fibrous, so [they] don’t make for very good soup, while the golden nugget squash is very creamy and makes an excellent soup,” he says. “It’s also richer than a butternut squash.” The golden nugget gives the soup bright orange color, as well as deep squash flavor. For those who don’t maintain a vegan diet, the soup can be served with a dollop of sour cream, which adds mild tanginess as well as additional body to the soup.

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GERMAN POTATO SOUP MARIANNE OLIVE, SOUR KRAUT Ingredients ½ pound smoked bacon, chopped 1 stick butter 1 dozen Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled, diced 6 carrots, diced 2 leeks, diced 3 stalks celery, diced ½ head celery root, diced 2 Vidalia onions, diced 3 tablespoons flour 6 cups chicken broth 2 cups Half-and-Half 1 cup water chopped parsley and marjoram salt and pepper to taste serves 8-12 Method 1. Fry the chopped bacon in a deep pan until crispy. Remove a small amount of the bacon to use as a garnish and set aside.

2. Add the butter to the bacon pan, then add the diced potatoes, carrots, leeks, celery, celery root and onion and sauté until tender.

3. Add flour and stir until smooth.

4. Stir in chicken broth, Half & Half and water. Mix thoroughly—make sure there are no lumps.

5. Toss a little chopped parsley and marjoram into the soup. Add salt and pepper to taste.

6. Simmer 30 minutes.

Garnish with bits of the crispy bacon and more chopped parsley.

Sour Kraut 118 Main St, Nyack (845) 358-3122

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3 A big bowl of potato-and-bacon soup is a sure way to keep warm this winter. At Sour Kraut Restaurant in Nyack, chef Marianne Olive dices up Yukon Golds as the basis of her hearty German potato soup. Potatoes, carrots, celery, leeks and onions are cooked tender in a combination of bacon fat and butter, giving the soup a smoky richness.

Unlike russets, the Yukon Gold potatoes provide a deep, buttery flavor—and they contain about twice as much vitamin C as regular baking potatoes. The soup is seasoned with parsley and marjoram.

(Often confused with oregano, marjoram offers a grassy, lemony flavor that’s sweeter than oregano.) Smoky soups pair nicely with acidic white wines like Pinot Gris; the minerality will also compliment the potatoes’ earthy flavor.

photos christine gritmon

BLACK TRUFFLE SOUP

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PAUL BOCUSE, BOCUSE RESTAURANT Ingredients ¼ cup of an equal mix of finely minced carrots, onions, celery, and mushrooms 2 ounces cooked beef (chuck) diced into small, ¼-inch cubes 3/4 ounce foie gras, finely chopped 13/4 ounces black truffles, finely sliced butter for frying 2 tablespoons black truffle juice 2 tablespoons Noilly Prat (or substitute dry vermouth) 13½ ounces concentrated beef stock sea salt and pepper to taste 4 ounces of puff pastry, divided in two egg yolk for glazing serves 2 Method 1. Combine the diced carrots, onions, celery and mushrooms and fry gently in butter.

2. Place half the vegetable mixture, diced beef, chopped foie gras and sliced truffles at the bottom of each soup bowl.

3. Add 1 tablespoon Noilly Prat and 1 tablespoon truffle juice to each bowl.

4. Add half the beef stock to each bowl and salt and pepper to taste.

5. Roll puff pastry into two discs, 1/8” thick. Place the pastry on the soup bowl and press the edges down to seal the soup inside.

6. Using a pastry brush, lightly glaze the puff pastry with egg yolk.

7. Bake the soup at 425˚F for 18 to 20 minutes.

8. Remove from the oven and serve immediately.

Bocuse Restaurant 1946 Campus Dr (Route 9), Hyde Park (845) 451-1012

photo left valley table ; photo right the culinary institute of america

If you travel to the Culinary Institute of America this winter, stop by The Bocuse Restaurant for a bowl black truffle soup, a.k.a. soupe aux truffes noires. This classic recipe, originally created by the restaurant’s namesake, Chef Paul Bocuse, is a celebrated and iconic dish that Bocuse first introduced while working at the Elysée Palace in Paris.

Presented in Bocuse’s customized white bowls embellished with lions’ heads, the soup is hidden beneath a crown of golden, puff pastry. Break the shell with soft tap of a spoon and inside you’ll find root vegetables that have been diced into perfect, gem-like squares, decadent pieces of black truffle and a savory, rich broth. While the broth is light, it’s enhanced by the pungent and distinct, earthy aroma of the truffles. As the pastry is broken, the steam from the soup is released for a multi-sensory experience.

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WHITE BEAN & KALE SOUP (ZUPPA DI FAGIOLI E LACINATO) EDDIE LAURIA, AROMA OSTERIA Ingredients 1 pound dried cannellini beans 4 ounces pancetta, diced ¼ cup olive oil 2 onions, finely chopped 2 large carrots, finely chopped 3 stalks celery, finely chopped 4 cloves garlic, minced 8 cups water 4 cups chicken stock 1 Parmigiano rind 1 pound Tuscan kale, coarsely chopped salt and pepper to taste serves 6 Method 1. Place beans in a pot and add enough water to cover beans by 2 inches.

Bring to a boil.

2. Remove pot from heat and let stand, uncovered, for 1 hour.

3. Drain beans in a colander and rinse.

4. In a soup pot, cook pancetta in olive oil for 2 minutes.

5. Add onions, carrots and celery and cook until the onions are translucent.

6. Add garlic and cook for another 2 minutes.

7. Add beans, Parmigiano rind, chicken stock and 4 cups of water. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, until beans are tender, about an hour.

8. Stir in kale, return to a simmer and cook until the kale is tender, about 15 minutes. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

Serve in warm bowls topped with Parmigiano Reggiano shavings.

Aroma Osteria 114 Old Post Rd, Wappingers Falls (845) 298-6790

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Want a taste of Tuscany this winter? At Aroma Osteria in Wappingers, Eddie Lauria has been sharing rustic Italian cuisine with the Hudson Valley since 1997.

Lauria’s traditional soup is hearty yet light, and packed with protein-rich beans and seasonal kale. Since kale is a member of the cabbage family and a cool-season green, it’s available here late in the season, making it a valuable winter ingredient. Cannellini beans make great soup because they hold their shape well under heat and provide mild, creamy flavor. Lauria uses rendered pancetta fat to give the soup a savory boost and hearty meatiness that compliments the beans and the herbaceous, slightly bitter kale. It’s finished with a drizzle of premium extra virgin olive oil that rounds the soup with a peppery zest.

photo left jerry novesky

ROASTED TOMATO AND PEANUT BUTTER SOUP

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PAM BROWN, GARDEN CAFÉ Ingredients 4 cups chopped tomatoes (or substitute canned tomatoes, drained) 1 cup tomato liquid (add water if needed) 2 cups diced onions 2 tablespoons fresh minced ginger 3 garlic cloves ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon ¼ cup organic canola oil 1 teaspoon salt 4 cups coconut milk 2 tablespoons peanut butter ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper (or more, to taste) 1 teaspoon salt ¼ bunch coarsely chopped cilantro (for garnish) ¼ cup coarsely chopped dry roasted peanuts (for garnish) serves 6 to 8 Method Preheat oven to 400˚F. 1. Spray a medium baking dish with organic canola spray and set aside.

2. Toss together tomatoes, onions, ginger, garlic cloves and cinnamon with the canola oil and salt.

3. Place tomato mixture in baking dish and roast 20 to 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes are lightly blistered and the onions are browned.

4. Remove tomatoes from the oven and allow to cool about 15 minutes.

5. Pour tomato mixture into a food processor and pulse a few times.

6. Add the remaining ingredients to the processor and blend until smooth.

7. Pour soup mixture into a medium soup pot and heat well.

To garnish, mix together the chopped cilantro and chopped peanuts.

Sprinkle a little of the mixture over each serving.

Garden Café on the Green 6 Old Forge Rd, Woodstock (845) 679-3600

photos todd spire

Chef/owner Pam Brown brings the unique combination of tomatoes and peanut butter to Woodstock’s Garden Café. “Tomatoes and peanut butter may seem a bit unusual, but in this instance they are the perfect match to create a rich, satisfying and warming soup,” she says. Tomatoes are tossed with onions, ginger, garlic and cinnamon before being lightly blistered in the oven. Oven roasting concentrates the flavor of the tomatoes, enhancing their sweet and savory qualities. A seemingly unlikely pair, the rich peanut butter balances the natural acidity of the tomatoes, while giving the soup a full-bodied texture. The soup is spiked with a dash of cayenne, enhancing its warmth. Brown suggests pairing the soup with Malbec, which is complex, fruity and compliments the mild, spicy sweetness of the soup. If you prefer seasonings other than cinnamon, Brown emphasizes the soup’s versatility and suggests personalizing the recipe by replacing the original spices with chipotle and cumin and garnishing with crushed tortilla chips for a Southwestern option, or adding curry powder and a pinch of turmeric for a hint of India.

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Come dine at our new outdoor patio

Contemporary American dining under the Walkway Over the Hudson. Menu offers seasonal and local foods. Martinis, mixed drinks and fine wines.

Patio dining available under the Walkway Over the Hudson.

Open Wednesday-Saturday 4-10 Sunday Brunch 11:30-3 Dinner Sunday 4-9 Call or visit our website to make reservations. craverestaurantandlounge.com | 845-452-3501

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Artisan cheese & charcuterie cut to order Local, French & Italian pantry items Stumptown coffee • Fine chocolates European style sandwiches • Catering 267 Main Street, Beacon, New York • 845-440-8923 Mon - Sat 7am - 8pm • Sun 7am - 6pm

Kick back, relax and sample the best of the Hudson Valley

47 West Main St., Goshen, NY (845) 360-5253 | craft47.com

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Artful cooking / Event planning

Weddings hake, shiso, sesame, hagia rice Dinner parties scallops, concord grape, celery Fundraisers lamb, cumin, lime, honey Drop-offs cauliflower, cardamom curry Birthdays cornmeal, whiskey, custard Photo shoots kasha, maitake, sage, leeks Cocktail parties quince, pear, duck Openings

spaet z le,

brown

shallots

Rehearsal dinners octopus, lemon, thyme

Seasonal menus, skillfully prepared and delicious.

Garrison, NY / 845-424-8204 / freshcompany.net

244 Main St Beacon NY 845-831-8500 facebook.com/GerardosSeafoodCafe

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SAINT GEORGE’S CHRIS VERGARA

D E N BAN IN

A D A N CA

I

text by julia sexton photos by simon feldman

n a post-food network world, it’s hard to dodge stereotypes when discussing the lives of chefs. There are elder statesmen and bad boys, media superstars and locavorian prophets. Then one comes along, like Chef Chris Vergara, who won’t fit neatly into a box.

Sure, there are rumors of Vergara’s hard partying, fights, and scrapes with the law. There is the fact that, in his twenties, Vergara earned his living playing in illegal poker games. There are other facts, like the time Vergara was in a car accident in which he sustained a brain injury that blunted his palate and left him without the sense of smell.

(He healed, and both senses returned.) Or try this one: For his transgressions, Vergara is banned from entering the nation of Canada. (Canada—a country whose citizens, as Michael Moore proved in Bowling for Columbine, don’t even bother to lock their doors.)

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Restaurants are the fringe element; they’re like a warm blanket for people like me.

But there are counter rumors from, for example, Polpettina’s owner and co-chef, Kyle Inserra, who marvels that Vergara has “read everything.” And it is true that Vergara is conversant in the lesser works of David Foster Wallace. He’s been alternately described by fellow restaurateurs as a “mad scientist” and “soooo smart—like some kind of genius.” Vergara is an avid fly-fisherman and drives a Prius; he doesn’t hew to type.

What’s true? All the above.

Yet, despite his colorful history, Vergara’s three Westchester restaurants—Meritage (in Scarsdale), Harper’s (in Dobbs Ferry) and Saint George (in Hastings-onHudson)—are remarkably low key. Each is successful, well reviewed, beloved by diners. “My aesthetic is that I’d sooner eat food that’s well prepared and homey than something that’s self indulgent,” he says. “So many chefs are trying so hard to show you how clever they are. I mean, I read menus now that sound like Top Chef challenges.

This all started when Thomas Keller began putting dishes in quotes. Suddenly, everything became about a chef’s witty riff on a classic. I’m thinking, ‘Look, you’re a 27-year-old chef—I don’t want to see your witty interpretation of boeuf bourguignon, I want to see boeuf bourguignon.”

The role of restaurant lifer is strangely apt for Vergara.

He’s been working in restaurants—sometimes off, but mostly on—for 22 years. He repeatedly refers to himself as

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one of “the old guys” (he’s 36), and he takes a long view of the industry. When the unpleasant subject of Yelp and payfor-play bloggers is broached, he moans, “It wasn’t like this when I started!”

Like many, Vergara’s start in the industry was as a busboy at age 14. The seduction was easy: restaurant hours appealed, and late shifts (and unpredictable closing times) helped him elude parental eyes. “I was always a stayout and a misfit, even when I was younger. And restaurants are the fringe element; they’re like a warm blanket for people like me.”

The kitchen held special allure. “I’d watch service all night and there were all these amazing smells and sounds.

The idea that there were all these tickets on the board and that they’re somehow coordinated felt like a big mystery.

I’d watch the cooks and I’d wonder, how the hell are they doing this? And at the end of all the commotion, they’d be making this beautiful food. With the juxtaposition of all these elements, it was like, ‘C’mon, get me back there!’”

“I finally got into the kitchen at the Rye Town Hilton.

And this is something that you’ll hear from a lot of chefs: their work is the last thing they think about before they close their eyes, and it’s the first thing when they wake up.

It was like that for me, even when I was doing banquets in high school.” By the time Vergara hit his late teens, the hook was set. “I knew that there was something about this

world that totally engaged me.” He adds, “Pressure has a lot to do with it. I mean, there is always pressure from the customers—but the real pressure comes from the people that you work with. They’re counting on you. You can’t call in sick and you can’t mess up; you owe it to those people to be just awesome every day.”

That’s not to say there haven’t been deviations. After high school, Vergara followed his love of fly fishing to pursue an Ecology and Environmental Technology degree at Paul Smith’s College (College of the Adirondacks). He was thrown out. Later, while working at Rye’s La Panetière restaurant, he attended courses at the Culinary Institute of America whenever he could collect enough funds to enroll. Among other sources of income, poker was a reliable earner—if less-than-legitimate and dangerous.

Characteristically, Vergara waves away any bad boy glamor that might cling to his Wilderness Years: “It ends up being boring. You’d be playing cards for five or six hours just waiting for someone to make a mistake.”

When he was 25, Vergara and his partner, Jamie Steinthal, opened the restaurant that would become Meritage in Scarsdale. That’s young to start any business, but it’s nearly suicidal to open a restaurant at that age. “We were too young,” he acknowledges. “We had just been in Montana working on a restaurant deal—it was a music

venue, a restaurant, and a casino. In Missoula, all the liquor licenses also come with gaming licenses. That fell through, but we had just gone through the process. We’d written menus. We already had that muscle at work.”

Back in Scarsdale, “One of the first things we did was alienate all the previous owner’s customers. I had all these highfalutin’ ideas about authenticity and real Italian food because I’d just come back from Italy. That’s when I changed our name from Il Cigno to Meritage.” Meritage, which rhymes with “heritage,” is an American word. It refers to a licensed collection of California wineries that make Bordeaux-style wines, but are located outside of France’s protected DOC. Vergara’s choice of name communicates the idea of taking Old-World stock and giving it a new life in new terrior. “I’d just come back and I thought, none of what Americans think of Italian food is actually Italian.” At Meritage, he designed a menu whose flavors hearkened to Italy, but with variations that were distinctly American.

“It just seemed to have more integrity. If you ask any great chef, the most important thing to great food is using great ingredients. It would follow, then, that where you source your ingredients would dictate your type of cuisine.”

Vergara is frank about mistakes. He quickly learned, for example, that it wasn’t feasible to offer strictly local and organic food. “At that point, it didn’t matter that I couldn’t

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SMOKED LAMB SHOULDER CHRIS VERGARA, HARPER’S BRINE

Ingredients 2 quarts water 3½ ounces Kosher salt 2 ounces brown sugar 1 tablespoon mustard seed 1 tablespoon coriander seed 2 tablespoons black pepper 5 sprigs thyme 10 garlic cloves, smashed 1 3- to 5-pound, bone-in lamb shoulder serves 4 to 6 Method 1. Combine all of the ingredients, except lamb, in a large pot and bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar and salt.

2. Place in refrigerator and allow the brine to cool until it is 40°.

3. When cool, submerge the lamb shoulder in the brine, weighting it down with a bowl if necessary to keep it fully submerged. Refrigerate the brined lamb at least 12 hours, up to 48 hours. Meanwhile, prepare the dry rub (below).

4. When ready to smoke the lamb, remove it from the brine and pat dry.

5. Preheat your smoker to 235° and load with it hardwood (apple, alder or cherry).

6. Coat the lamb liberally with 1 cup of dry rub and place it on smoker rack. Smoke 6 to 8 hours, or until flesh shrinks from the bone and the bone is easily removed.

DRY RUB

Ingredients ½ cup coriander seed ½ cup black pepper 1 tablespoons cumin 2 tablespoons dried fennel 1 tablespoon paprika Method Combine all ingredients in spice grinder and grind until coarse.

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cook that well—or that I was still looking up recipes for chicken stock—because we didn’t have any competition.

We were getting local and organic ingredients whenever we could and we were really trying to do something creative. We were making our own pasta and doing stuff that, almost 11 years ago, no one else was doing.”

Meritage would earn a loyal following and a “very good” in The New York Times.

In 2010, inspired in part by David DiBari’s The Cookery and a growing bohemian scene in Westchester’s river towns, Vergara debuted his nose-to-tail American tavern, Harper’s, in downtown Dobbs Ferry. He was buying whole animals and celebrating the off-cuts. On any given night, you’d find charcuterie, lamb belly and a burger ground from shoulder rolls of beef. Location was the key to Vergara’s success at Harper’s. “When you buy whole animals, there are always cuts that are difficult to sell. But, here, in the river towns, it seems like it’s more difficult to sell the loin than it is to sell the neck.”

Last year, Vergara and Jason Steinberg took on the glittering Hastings-on-Hudson space that since 1980 had been Buffet de la Gare. They ditched the beloved restaurant’s tablecloths and jackets-only dress code, and re-launched the re-invigorated effort as Saint George. It serves bistro classics in the flicker of candlelight off centuryold pressed tin. At Saint George, Vergara would earn

TRUFFLED CHESTNUT SOUP CHRIS VERGARA, SAINT GEORGE Ingredients 1 ounce fresh black truffle 2 cups plus 1½ quarts chicken stock 3 tablespoons butter 3 medium shallots 5 ounces Cremini mushrooms, quartered 2 pounds roasted and peeled chestnuts, coarsely chopped 1 cup apple cider maple syrup to taste cider vinegar salt and white pepper to taste brioche croutons serves 4 to 6

an “excellent” rating in The New York Times review in which critic Alice Gabriel advised, “I’d order the chicken fricassee—when is the last time you saw fricassee on a menu?—cut into delectable nuggets, mingled with cèpes and house-cured bacon, lolling in a rich gravy of the sort of dish that gets French people going about their grand-mères.”

Oh, Canada? Because of one youthful indiscretion or another, Vergara is still banned from entering the placid nation of moose—which is a pity, since he had once enjoyed visits to Quebec for combination fishing/ eating binges. Still, Vergara is hopeful that Canada might someday forgive him. “I should just go and show them all my restaurant receipts,” he says. “They’ll probably name a street after me.”

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Method 1. In a small pot, place the black truffle and 2 cups of chicken stock. Simmer the truffle in the stock for 3 minutes. Remove the truffle and set aside to cool.

2. Continue to cook the chicken stock until it is reduced by half, then set aside.

3. Meanwhile, in a pot large enough to hold all of the ingredients, melt the butter. Add the mushrooms and shallots and sweat until mushrooms have yielded their liquid and that has evaporated.

4. Add the chestnuts, 1½ quarts of chicken stock, the reserved liquid from cooking the truffle, and cider. Simmer the mixture until the chestnuts are tender.

5. Strain the chestnuts and reserve the cooking liquid.

6. Place the chestnuts in a food processor and process to achieve a creamy consistency, adding cooking liquid as necessary.

7. Season to taste with maple syrup, cider vinegar, salt and white pepper. Return to a pot and keep hot.

8. Julienne the black truffle.

Serve the soup hot, topped with brioche croutons (below) and julienned truffle.

BRIOCHE CROUTONS

Ingredients 4 slices brioche, crust removed, ¼-inch dice 3 tablespoons clarified butter Method In a sauté pan, heat the butter over high heat until it is just about to smoke. Add the diced brioche and toss it to cook evenly without burning. Season the croutons with salt and drain on paper towel-lined plate.

Harper’s 92 Main St, Dobbs Ferry (914) 693-2306; harpersonmain.com Meritage 1505 Weaver St, Scarsdale (914) 472-8484; meritagerestaurant.net Saint George 155 Southside Ave, Hastings-on-Hudson (914)478-1671; saintgeorgebistro.com

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DUCK AGNOLOTTI GOLDEN NUGGET SQUASH SOUP CHRIS VERGARA, MERITAGE JOSH KRONER, TERRAPIN RESTAURANT PASTA DOUGH Ingredients

FILLING

Ingredients Ingredients 7 pounds golden nugget squash 17.6 4 confit duck legs (above) 1 cupounces water all-purpose flour 15 egg yolks safflower oil 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons 2 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 whole pound eggs Spanish onions, chopped serves 4 2 sprigs thyme 2 tablespoons chopped garlic 2 small shallots, thinly sliced 2 tablespoons chopped ginger 3 cloves garlic, minced Method 1 cup white wine ½ cup roasted duck stock or chicken stock 1.

Combine can eggscoconut and flour in the bowl 1 14-ounce milk ½ in cup grated Parmigiano 2 stalks of a stand mixer fitted the hook lemongrass, finelywith chopped and wrapped a cheesecloth bundleReggiano 3 tablespoons chopped parsley 1 teaspooncground attachment. Mix on low setting until the ground galangal* (or substitute ginger) juice of ½ of a lemon 8 cups dough comes together a ball. chicken stock) vegetable stock (orinsubstitute salt and pepper to taste 2. the dough salt Remove and pepper to tasteand knead on a 1 whole egg serves floured 14 surface. Dough should be firm.

3. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and *Galangal is aitpungent Asian root related to for ginger, commonly Method used in Thai cuisine. allow to rest at room temperature It found fresh and dried in Asian markets or online. can halfbean hour.

1. Remove the bones from the duck legs and discard. Coarsely chop the meat and Method CIDER REDUCTION set it aside.

Preheat oven to 350˚F. Ingredients 2. Place the butter and oil in a sauté pan 1.

Cut squash in half, scoop out and discard seeds and medium strings. heat. Sweat the thyme, 1 quart apple cider over teaspoon Place squash on a sheet or and garlic and in the pan until 1 applehalves cider cut-side-down vinegar pan shallots, rimmed cookie sheet. the vegetables are soft.

2.

Pour 1 cup of water into the pan with the squash and Method 3. Add the chopped duck and cook, carefully place oven.

Place the cider in ainpot and cook until stirring occasionally, until the mixture 3. minutes, the Cook liquidfor is approximately syrupy. Season 45 with vinegaror until a knife startspasses to brown. easily through the squash. Remove from oven4.and let cool. and set aside.

Deglaze the pan with the duck stock 4. With a large metal spoon, scrape the squash flesh of the andout cook until the liquids have almost DUCK rind.

Put the flesh into a large bowl and set aside.

CONFIT evaporated.

5. Heat a large stockpot over medium heat. Add5.the safflower Ingredients Remove mixture to a mixing bowl 4 duck oil, then arethe soft. legs the onions, garlic and ginger. Cook until andonions discard thyme sprigs. Allow the 6. white wine and continue to cook until the liquid isto cool 5 to 10 minutes. ½ Add cup salt mixture sprigs almostthyme evaporated.

8 6. While the mixture is still warm, add 7. squash flesh, coconut milk, lemon grass, galangal parsley and lemon juice.

10 Add garlicthe cloves smashed Parmigiano, bay andleaves stock to the pot and bring to a boil.

3 Mix thoroughly. Adjust seasoning with 8.tablespoons Reduce heatblack and simmer 2 pepper for 2 hours, stirring frequently. salt and pepper.

9.

Remove lemongrass bundle, season to taste with salt and pepper. duck fat 7. Place the filling in the bowl of a food 10. Blend in batches until smooth. Serve hot. processor, add the egg, and puree the Top with a dollop of sour cream if desired.

Method mixture into a fine paste. The filling 1. Combine all the ingredients except should be loose but not wet.

Terrapin Restaurant the duck fat in a non-reactive container 8. Transfer mixture to a piping bag and set St,you Rhinebeck and allow to infuse, refrigerated, 12 to6426 Montgomery aside while roll out pasta dough.

(845) 876-3330 24 hours.

2. When ready to cook, rinse the duck legs and pat them dry.

3. Preheat oven to 230°.

4. Arrange the legs in a baking dish.

5. In a small pot, melt duck fat over low heat and pour it over the duck legs to cover.

6. Place the legs in the preheated oven and roast, uncovered, for 2½ to 3 hours.

When done, the meat should pull easily from the bone.

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TO FINISH

Ingredients 1 pound fresh pasta dough (left) all of the filling 2 ounces chicken stock 3 whole sage leaves 2 tablespoons butter, cold salt and pepper to taste 1 ounces cider reduction (left) freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano, for garnish fresh herbs, for garnish Method 1. Working from the widest setting on your pasta machine to its narrowest setting, roll the pasta through the rollers, reducing the width of the setting after each pass.

2. On a lightly floured surface, cut dough into even rectangles.

3. Pipe a line of filling onto the pasta sheet horizontally, leaving enough space to fold pasta over the filling.

3. Fold the overhang over the filling and press to seal: Starting on one side, pinch the filling in ½-inch to 1-inch increments, forming little pillow-shaped pockets.

4. Cut the dough with a pastry cutter in between the pockets to separate and seal them. Repeat the process until you have used all of the filling.

5. Heat a pot of water to a rolling boil and salt liberally.

6. In a sauté pan, heat the chicken stock and sage, then swirl in butter to form a sauce. Season with salt and pepper.

7. Place the agnolotti into the boiling water, reduce heat and simmer 1 to 2 minutes, or until cooked.

8. Gently lift the agnolotti from the boiling water with a spider and place them in the pan with the butter/sage sauce. Toss to coat.

9. Remove to a serving platter and drizzle cider reduction over top.

Garnish with fresh herbs and grated Parmigiano Reggiano.

2 EAST MAIN STREET, BEACON NY 12508

A few years ago, we opened new doors to one of Beacon’s most beautiful, historical buildings.

Now we’re doing it again with a new menu, new look and simplified approach.

REDISCOV ER T HE R OU N D HOU SE

845 765 8369 | ROUNDHOUSEBEACON.COM

Woodstock, N.Y. 845-679-5361 Rhinebeck, N.Y. 845-876-2555 Holiday Gifts, Turkey & Specialty Gourmet Foods!

Calendar of Store Events & Workshops at www.sunflowernatural.com

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Fabulous Farms, Foods & Markets

Celebrating Organics!

Come by the market for our organic meats and produce raised here on our 1000 acre farm in the Hudson Valley.

WE’RE OPEN ALL YEAR

ORGANIC MEATS GIFT BASKETS CATERING DAILY LUNCH SPECIALS & HOT SOUPS • LOCAL, SPECIALTY & GLUTEN FREE GROCERIES • • • •

MARKET 518 789 4191 HOURS MON-THURS+SAT 9-5 FRI+SUN 9-5:30 5409 ROUTE 22 MILLERTON NEW YORK BULK SOIL & COMPOST 518 789 3252 HOURS MON-FRI 8-12 1-5 mcenroeorganicfarm.com

WINTER FARMERS’ MARKETS AMENIA FARMERS’ MARKET Town Hall, Route 22 Dec: Sat 10–2 Jan-early May 1st&3rd Sat 10–2 ameniafarmersmarket.com BEACON FARMERS’ MARKET Ferry Dock, Train Station Parking lot (weather permitting) River Center, Long Dock Rd (inclement weather/ Jan–nice weather) Year round: Sun 11–3 www.beaconfarmersmarket.org

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CALLICOON FARMERS’ MARKET INDOOR Delaware Youth Center, 8 Creamery Rd Dec: Sun 11–2; Jan 4th & 18th, Feb 1st & 22nd, Mar 8th & 22nd, Apr 12th & 26th: 11–2 www.sullivancountyfarmersmarkets.org CHAPPAQUA FARMERS’ MARKET INDOOR Dec 6–mid-May: Sat 9–1 Check the website for venue location. chappaquafarmersmarket.org COLD SPRING FARMERS’ MARKET INDOOR Parish Hall at St Mary’s Episcopal Church Nov 29–May: Sat 8:30–1 www.csfarmmarket.org

gossett 67_Layout 1 8/28/14 2:43 PM Page 1

Abundant local vegetables • wine grass-fed / organic meats • cheese pickles • jams • breads • chicken handmade pasta • local honey seafood • dairy and baked goods home made desserts

On-farm Sales Saturdays 10 - 3 www.lowlandfarm.com 845 481-3459

Pastured Berkshire Pork & Grass-fed Beef, raised naturally in Warwick, NY Advance ordering: lowlandfarm.eattomfarms.com

COPAKE HILLSDALE FARMERS MARKET Copake Grange, Empire Rd Nov 22 & Dec 13: 10–2 www.Facebook.com/ CopakeHillsdaleFarmersMarket CORNWALL FARMERS’ MARKET Munger Cottage behind the Library Nov 15–Jun 1: 1st & 3rd Sat 10–2 www.cornwallny.gov HASTINGS-ON-HUDSON - FARMERS’ MARKET INDOOR Library Lot, 7 Maple Ave (Dec, Apr, & May) James Harmon Community Center, 44 Main St (Jan, Feb, Mar) Every other Sat, Dec 6–May 23: 9-1 hastingsfarmersmarket.org

KINDERHOOK FARMERS MARKET Greenhouse at Samascott’s Garden Market Sat 10am–1pm through Dec www.kinderhookfarmersmarket.com KINGSTON WINTER FARMERS’ MARKET Old Dutch Church, 272 Wall St Dec–Apr: 1st & 3rd Sat 10–2 kingstonfarmersmarket.org MAMARONECK WINTER DOWN-TOEARTH FARMERS’ MARKET St. Thomas Episcopal Church, 168 W Boston Post Rd Jan 3– May 2: Sat 9–1 downtoearthmarkets.com/markets

MILLERTON FARMERS’ MARKET INDOOR Gilmor Glass, 2 Main St Every Sat in Nov & Dec 10–2; Jan 11th & 25th, Feb 8th & 22nd, Mar 8th & 22nd, Apr 12th & 26th: 10–2 www.millertonfarmersmarket.org NEW PALTZ WINTER FARMERS’ MARKET New Paltz Community Center, Veteran Dr (behind Town Hall) 2nd Sat of the month, Dec 13–Apr: 10–3 www.wintersunfarms.com/market.php NYACK WINTER FARMERS’ MARKET Nyack Center, Corner of Depew & S Broadway Thurs Dec 4–Mar 26: 8–2 www.nyackchamber.org

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Hahn Farm AllNaturalMeat Angus Beef, Poultry, Pork, Lamb, Turkeys

Naturally raised seasonal produce

Visit our Farm Market

1697 Salt Point Turnpike • Salt Point, NY 12578 266-5042 or 266-3680

www.HahnFarm.com

Celebrating 100 years!

Homegrown Seasonal Produce Homemade Baked Goods Local & Gourmet Foods Fine Gifts, Home Decor & Accessories Art Gallery & Frame Shop Baked & Grown Just Like Home Open Daily 190 Angola Rd., Cornwall (845) 534-4445 JonesFarmInc.com

OSSINING WINTER DOWN-TO-EARTH FARMERS’ MARKET Claremont Elementary School, Van Cortlandt Ave off of N Highland Ave Jan 10–Apr 4: Sat 9–1 downtoearthmarkets.com/markets PLEASANTVILLE FARMERS’ MARKET INDOOR Pleasantville Middle School, 40 Romer Ave Dec 6–May 9: Sat 9–1 pleasantvillefarmersmarket.org POCANTICO HILLS - STONE BARNS FARM MARKET Stone Barns Center, 630 Bedford Rd Dec 21st, Jan 11th, Feb 8th, Mar 8th, Apr 12th: 10–4 www.stonebarnscenter.org/products/ farm-market.html

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POUGHKEEPSIE - VASSAR COLLEGE INDOOR MARKET College Center, 129 Raymond Ave Thurs Dec 4th 12–4; Thurs Jan 29th–Mar 12th, Apr 2nd–May 7th: 12–4 sustainability.vassar.edu/campus-initiatives/ indoor-farmers-market REDHOOK - HUDSON VALLEY FARMERS’ MARKET 229 Pitcher Ln Sat 10–3 www.greigfarm.com/hudson-valleyfarmers-market.html RHINEBECK WINTER MARKET Town Hall, 80 East Main St Dec 7–Apr 26: Alternating Sun (see website) 10–2 rhinebeckfarmersmarket.com

2015

ROSENDALE WINTER FARMERS MARKET Rosendale Recreation Center 1st Sun of Dec, Jan, Feb, Mar; 2nd Sun of Apr: 10–2 Visit on Facebook: Rosendale Farmer’s Market SAUGERTIES FARMERS MARKET INDOOR Senior Center, 207 Market St Sat Nov 22 & Sat Dec 20: 10–2 saugertiesfarmersmarket.com SOUTH SALEM - GOSSETT’S FARM MARKET Gossett Brother’s Nursery, 1202 Route 35 Year round: Sat 9–1 www.gossettnursery.com

Education Programs Agriculture • Environment Grass-fed Meats and Award-winning Cheeses

Farm Market Open Year Round Learn, connect, eat healthy foods. It’s another way to “Save the Children” 845.485.8438 (office & general info)

845.485.9885 (market & creamery)

WINTER MARKET ALTERNATE SUNDAYS :

sproutcreekfarm.org

DEC 7 & 21, JAN 4 & 18, FEB 1 & 15, MAR 1, 15,& 29, APR 12 & 26 rhinebeck TOWN HALL, 80 E. Market Street

LTRY FARM & MA U O P S ’ O R RKE T T A Our own T QU farm-raised chickens • pheasants ducks • geese venison • capon

QUATTRO’S BEER WALL now selling craft beer growlers

Order your Christmas Goose!

VISIT OUR FARM STORE RT. 44, PLEASANT VALLEY (845) 635-2018 WINERY

•

TASTINGS

•

TOURS

10 Ann Kaley Lane, Marlboro 845.236.7620 • www.stoutridge.com POULTRY FARM & GOURMET MARKET

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hoenicians, Carthaginians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans and Spaniards have laid claim to the island of Sicily and left a legacy on the culture and cuisine. Dining there is a feast of flavor and freshness—“eating local” is taken for granted because that’s the way it’s always been.

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LOCALLY GROWN

text and photos by keith stewart

eating local in sicily

Sicilians eat far more fresh fruits, vegetables, legumes, whole grains, seeds and nuts (especially almonds and pistachios) than we do in America. They favor seafood over red meat, and they consume far fewer eggs and dairy products (except cheese or yogurt—often made from sheep or goats milk). Local olive oil gets the nod over butter. dec

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The ancient coastal city of Catania lies in the shadow of Mount Etna (known locally as Mama Etna, or simply The Mountain). The soils on the volcano’s lower slopes are exceptionally rich in minerals and nutrients that impart special flavor to the fruits and vegetables grown in them. Even the fish in the local waters have a distinctive flavor.

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Nowhere is the abundance of local food more evident than in Catania’s largest open-air street market, La Fiera (The Fair), where all manner of perfectly ripe vegetables are on display, along with fresh meats (including cavallo— horsemeat—a Catania specialty) and, of course, the catch of the day. 4

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New American Cuisine 2710 West Main Street Village of Wappingers Falls, NY 12590 Lunch & Dinner ~ Closed Tuesday Banquet Room Available (845) 297-0510 WestMainKitchenandBar.com

Advertise in The Valley Table. We’re different. (845) 765-2600 70

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INDEX TO ADVERTISERS PAGE 70 Admiration Foods / admirationfoods.com 37 Adams Fairacre Farms / adamsfarms.com 22 Apple Bin Farm Market / 845.339.7229 / theapplebinfarmmarket.com 38 Applewood Winery / applewoodwinery.com 24 10 Angelina’s / 845.265.7078 84 Another Fork in the Road / 845.758.6676 /

anotherforkintheroadmilan.wordpress.com 36 Aroma Osteria / 845.298.6790 / aromaosteriarestaurant.com 10 Beacon Bread Company / 845.838.2867 82 Beacon Natural Market / 845.838.1288 / beaconnaturalmarket.com 49 Beacon Pantry / 845.440.8923 84 Beech Tree Grill / 845.471.7279 / beechtreegrill.com 8 Billy Joe’s Ribworks / 845.565.1560 / ribworks.com 4 Brasserie 292 / 845.473.0292 / brasserie292.com 26 Brotherhood Winery / 845.496.3661 / brotherhood-winery.com 38 Buttermilk Falls Inn & Spa / 845.795.1310 / buttermilkfallsinn.com 81 Cafe Amarcord / 845.440.0050 / cafeamarcord.com 84 Cafe Mio / 845.255.4949 / miogardiner.com 59 Cafe of Love / 914.242.1002 / cafeofloveny.com 48 Canterbury Brook Inn / 845.534.9658 / canterburybrookinn.com 38 Cathryn’s Tuscan Grill / 845.265.5582 / tuscangrill.com 20 Coach Farm / coachfarm.com C4, 87 Cosimo’s / cosimosrestaurantgroup.com 49 Craft 47 / 845.360.5253 / craft47.com 60 Crave Restaurant & Lounge / 845.452.3501 / craverestaurantandlounge.com 10 Culinary Institute of America / 845.471.6608 / ciarestaurants.com C3 Daily Planet Diner / 845.452.0110 / dailyplanetdiner.com 66 Dutchess County Tourism / 800.445.3131 / dutchesstourism.com 84 Dutchess Wine Cellar / 845.218.9044 48 Ella’s Bellas / 845.765.8502 / ellasbellasbeacon.com 2 Ethan Allen / 845.565.6000 / ethanallen.com 50 Farm to Table Bistro / 845.297.1111 / ftbistro.com 23 Fishkill Farms / 845.897.4377 / fishkillfarms.com 51 Fresh Company / 845.424.8204 / freshcompany.net 39 Garrison, The / 845.424.3604 / thegarrison.com 39 Gerardo’s Seafood Cafe / 845.831.8500 / facebook.com/gerardosseafoodcafe 39 Giannetta Salon & Spa / 845.831.2421 / giannettasalonandspa.com 83 Gino’s Restaurant / 845.297.8061 / ginoswappingers.com 21 Gossett’s Farmers’s Market / 914.763.3001 / gossettnursery.com 39 Gourmet to Go Caterers / 845.677.5400 / gourmettogony.com 49 Green Meadow Waldorf School / 845.356.2514 / gmws.com 24 Hahn Farm / 845.266.3680 / hahnfarm.com 80 Harvest Spirits / harvestspirits.com 24 Hawthorne Valley Farm / 518.672.7500 / hawthornevalleyfarm.org 3 Hop, The / 845.440.8676 / thehopbeacon.com 86 Hudson Street Cafe / 845.534.2450 / hudsonstreetcafe.com 24 Hudson Valley Farmers’ Market / greigfarm.com 25 Hudson Valley Fresh / hudsonvalleyfresh.com 83 Hudson Valley Home Center / vivianmandaladesignstudio.com 72 Hudson Valley Skin Care / 845.635.4087 / hudsonvalleyskincare.com 50 Hyde Park Brewing Company / 845.229.8277 / hydeparkbrewing.com 36 Il Barilotto / 845.897.4300 / ilbarilottorestaurant.com 67 Irving Farm Coffee Roasters / irvingfarm.com 73 Jean-Claude’s / 845.986.8900 / jeanclaudesbakery.com 21 Jones Farm / 845.534.4445 / jonesfarminc.com 50 Joseph’s Steakhouse / 845.473.2333 / josephs-steakhouse.com 48 LeExpress / 845.849.3365 / leexpressrestaurant.com 51 Leo’s Ristorante & Bar / leospizzeria.com 60 Lola’s Cafe & Gourmet Catering / 845.471.8555 / lolascafeandcatering.com 25 Lowland Farm / 845.481.3459 / lowlandfarm.com 65 M&T Bank / mtb.com 48 Main Course / 845.255.2600 / maincoursecatering.com

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PAGE 71 Manhattan Beer Distributors / 718.292.9300 / manhattanbeer.com 84 Maybelle’s / maybellesny.com 24 McEnroe Farm Market / 518.789.4191 / mcenroeorganicfarm.com 70 MetroNorth / mta.info/mnr 80 Mexicali Blue / mexicali-blue.com 2 Mid Valley Wine & Liquor / 845.562.1070 / midvalleywine.com 73 Mill Restaurant & Bar / 845.214-000 / millpk.com 58 Mill House Brewing Company / 845.485.BREW / millhousebrewing.com 75 Morehead Honda / 888.449.6021 / moreheadhonda.com 77 Mother Earth’s / motherearthstorehouse.com 38 Naked Flock Hard Cider / applewoodwinery.com 85 New Paltz Wine & Spirits / 845.255.8528 / newpaltzwine.com C2, 1 New York Apple Association / nyapplecountry.com 81 Nic-L-Inn Wine Cellar / 845.452.5649 / nliwinecellar.com 58 Nina / 845.344.6800 / nina-restaurant.com 83 Northern Dutchess Realty, Amy Schrader / 917.803.9056 / northerndutchessrealty.com C3 Palace Diner / 845.473.1576 / thepalacediner.com 68 Pamal Broadcasting / pamal.com 22 Pine Bush Farmers Market / 845.978.0273 / pinebushfarmersmarket.com 73 Poughkeepsie Ice House on the Hudson / 845.232.5783 / pkicehouse.com 23 Prospect Hill Orchards / 845.795.2383 / prospecthillorchards.com 85 Puccini Ristorante / 845.876.3055 / puccinirhinebeck.com 3 Queen City Bistro / 845.337.4684 / queencitybistro.com 22 Quattro’s Poultry Farm & Market / 845.635.2018 75 Red Barn Produce / 845.691.7428 C3 Red Line Diner / 845.765.8401 / dineatredline.com 51 Restaurant 1915 / 845.786.2731 x.1915 52 RiverMarket Bar & Kitchen / 914.631.3100 / rivermarketbarandkitchen.com 59 Roscoe Beer Company / 607.290.5002 / roscoebeercompany.com 58 Roundhouse at Beacon Falls / 845.765.8369 / roundhousebeacon.com 85 RR Corks at Astor Square / 845.876.8444 25 Saunderskill Farms / 845.626.CORN / saunderskill.com 78 Smoky Rock BBQ / 845.876.5232 / smokyrockbbq.com 23 Soons Orchards / 845.374.5471 / soonsorchards.com 22 Sprout Creek Farm / 845.485.8438 / sproutcreekfarm.org 84 Stissing House / 518.398.8800 / stissinghouse.com 21 Stoutridge Vineyard / 845.236.7620 / stoutridge.com 9 Sullivan County Visitor’s Association / 800.882.2287 / scva.net 72 Sunflower Natural Foods Market / 845.679.5361 /

sunflowernatural.com C3 Table Talk Diner / 845.849.2839 / tabletalkdiner.com 79 Terrapin Restaurant / 845.876.3330 / terrapinrestaurant.com 83 Thyme / 914.788.8700 / thymerestaurant.net 10 Tito Santana Taqueria / 845.765.2530 8 Trattoria San Giorgio / 845.677.4566 84 Tuthill House at the Mill / 845.255.4151 / tuthillhouse.com 73 Twins Barbeque / 845.632.3860 / twinsbarbeque.com 58 Vigneto Cafe / 845.834.2828 / vignetocafe.com 85 Village Tea Room / 845.255.3434 / thevillagetearoom.com 7 Warren Kitchen & Cutlery / 845.876.6208 / warrenkitchentools.com 23 Warwick Valley Farmers Market / 845.987.9990 73 Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery / wvwinery.com 72 West Main Bar & Kitchen / 845.297.0510 / westmainkitchenandbar.com 21 Westchester County Tourism / 800.833.9282 / visitwestchester.com 20 Whitecliff Vineyard / 845.255.4613 / whitecliffwine.com 82 Wildfire Grill / 845.457.3770 / wildfireny.com 52 WKZE / wkze.com 8 Would, The / 845.691.9883 / thewould.com 76 Xaviars at Piermont / 845.359.7007 / xaviars.com

Wholesale Fruit & Produce

Where quality rules, local comes first, and taste matters 217 UPPER NORTH ROAD, HIGHLAND

FRESH MARKET

•

845.691.7428

BAR & KITCHEN

•

FAX 845.691.7468

WINE & SPIRITS

A Naturally Raised Hudson Valley Experience.

Open Seven Days Serving Lunch and Dinner. Fresh Market. Wine and Spirits.

127 WEST MAIN STREET TARRYTOWN NEW YORK

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DIRECTORY

A R T

Newburgh Art Supply 5 Grand St., Newburgh (845) 561-5552 newburghartsupply.com Mon–Thur 10–6; Fri 11–7; Sat 10–6 (last Saturdays open until 8pm); closed Sun. See, feel and experience quality art materials in one of Newburgh’s restored landmarks in the heart of the Washington Market neighborhood.

Your local source for essential creative supplies for the student, professional and enthusiast.

B A K E R I E S

The Alternative Baker 407 Main St., Rosendale (845) 658-3355; lemoncakes.com Open 7am Thur–Mon; closed­Tue, Wed. For almost 20 years we have stayed true to our mission to be the region’s benchmark for small-batch, hand­ made all-butter baked goods while also offering gluten-free and other allergy-friendly options. Made-toorder sandwiches for breakfast, lunch or a light supper. Special-occasion

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cakes made to order. All-vegan vegetable soups in season, hot mulled New York cider, an array of coffee and tea artisanal drinks, plus our award-winning Belgian hot chocolate. On offer are Harney teas and the valley’s best coffee from JB Peel. Special-occasion cakes made to order. Unique wedding cakes for a lifetime’s treasure. All “Worth a detour”—(NY Times). Truly “Where Taste is Everything.”

Ella’s Bellas 418-420 Main St., Beacon (845) 765-8502 Mon, Wed 8–5; Thur–Sat 8-7; Sun 9–4; closed­ Tue. Ella’s Bellas believes that an indulgence should taste like an indulgence regard­ ess of our dietary restrictions.

We specialize in gluten-free products but we promise you won’t know the difference.

Jean-Claude’s Patisserie & Dessert Café­ 25 Elm St., Warwick (845) 986-8900; fax (845) 986-8901 Wed, Thur, Sat 8–6; Fri 8–7; Sun 8–3.

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122 Windermere Ave., Greenwood Lake; (845) 595-6580 Thur–Fri 10–3; Sat 9–5; Sun 8–3. jeanclaudesbakery.com Enter Zagat-listed Jean-Claude’s Patis­ serie and you will be greeted with a warm ambiance and the delicious aromas of freshly baked, buttery croissants, brioche and danish, fine cakes and pastries. Pastry chef Jean-Claude San­chez is a classic Euro­pean artisan who has raised the standards of fine baking from his petit patisserie. The staff provides impec­ cable consulting expertise. Tastings for wed­ding cakes by appointment.

a light Marbledale American Pale Ale (made with American-grown hops), and a Broken Auger Lager.

Visit the brewery for tastings, pints and growlers; many Broken Bow beers are on tap at area restaurants.

Tours Fridays and Saturdays at 3pm and 6pm.

Hyde Park Brewing Company 4076 Albany Post Rd., Hyde Park (845) 229-8277 hydeparkbrewing.com Mon–Tue 4–10; Wed & Thur 11–10; Fri & Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 11–9.

C A T E R I N G

B R E W E R I E S

Broken Bow Brewery 173 Marbledale Rd., Tuckahoe (914) 268-0900 brokenbowbrewery.com Tasting Room Hours: Closed Mon & Tues; Wed & Thur 5-8; Fri & Sat 1-10; Sun 1-5 Growler Fill Hours: Mon & Tues 1-5; Wed, Thur & Sun 1-8; Fri & Sat 1-10 Convenient to the Crestwood MetroNorth train station, this brewery produces a rich Broken Heart Stout,

Fresh Company PO Box 187, Garrison (845) 424-8204 freshcompany.net At our kitchen one hour north of Manhattan in the Hudson Highlands, we gather great local and imported ingredients for events of all sizes and pocketbooks, from grand affairs to drop-off parties. True to our name, we emphasize the freshest, finest ingre­dients, because great food is the spark that ignites a convivial gathe­

ring. Executive chef Shelley Boris draws inspira­tion from cooking styles from around the world. Her distinct, warm style is reflected in meals that encourage hospitality and leisure at the table, the elemental enjoyment of eating and drinking well.

Gourmet To Go Caterers (845) 677-5400 gourmettogony.com Since 1992, a full-service off-premise caterer offering a wide range of locations. Our fine reputation is based on years of consistency and superb service. We specialize in weddings, corporate events, cocktail parties, holiday parties, outdoor barbecues and even boxed lunches. Creative cusine, exceptional presentation and professional service, taking every event from start to finish flawlessly.

Main Course 175 Main St., New Paltz (845) 255-2650 maincoursecatering.com Sensational food. Spectacular presen­ ta­tion. Impeccable service. Great loca­tions. Innovative regional cuisine, creat­ed by our CIA-trained chefs, will delight the most discrim­inating palate.

Our expert event planners have the necessary information and resources to orchestrate the perfect event and relieve you of all the cumbersome details. Unique sites include historic Hudson River mansions, quaint B&Bs, and lush wineries.

Terrapin Restaurant Catering & Events 6426 Montgomery St., Rhinebeck (845) 889-8831 terrapincatering.com Enjoy the same high quality ingre­dients and service that you know at Terrapin Restaurant anywhere in the Hudson Valley. Catering events of all types and sizes, Terrapin prepares custom menus for every event, using local, organic ingredients whenever possible. Contact Catering Director Hugh Piney.

C O F F E E

Irving Farm Coffee Roasters 23 Reagan Rd., Millerton (518) 789-3276; ­­ irvingfarm.com A quintessentially New York Company, at Irving Farm Coffee Roasters we know what the country means to the city—and vice versa. In 1999, Irving Farm established its farmhouse roastery in the town of Millerton.

Now Irving Farm supplies carefully selected, handcrafted coffees to three cafes in the same metropolis, as well as our own small-town coffee house in Millerton.

D I N E R S

Daily Planet 1202 Rt. 55, Lagrangeville (845) 452-0110; dailyplanetdiner.com

Palace Diner 194 Washington St., Poughkeepsie (845) 473-1576; thepalacediner.com Red Line Diner 588 Rt. 9, Fishkill (845) 765-8401; dineatredline.com Table Talk Diner 2521 C South Rd. (Rt. 9), Poughkeepsie (845) 849-2839; tabletalkdiner.com D I S T I L L E R I E S

Dennings Point Distillery 10 N. Chestnut St., Beacon denningspointdistillery.com Denning’s Point Distillery in Beacon, NY crafts the finest artisanal spirits available including Viskill Vodka, Beacon American Whiskey & Denning’s White Rye Whiskey. We choose only the highest quality grains from NY state farms and strive to create classic spirits of unique character and depth. Visit our unique, urban production space at 10 N. Chestnut Street in Beacon, NY. Open Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.

E D U C A T I O N

Green Meadow Waldorf School 307 Hungry Hollow Rd., Chestnut Ridge (845) 356-2514; gmws.org Founded in 1950, we are one of the oldest and largest Waldorf schools in

the U.S. From the child’s imaginative experiences of discovery and play in our Early Childhood program to the intellectual challenges presented in our High School, Green Meadow students approach their education with interest and joy.

G O L F

Garrison Golf Club 2015 US 9, Garrison (845) 424-4747; thegarrison.com/golf Daily, Apr–Nov 6:30–dusk.

The Garrison Golf Club is an 18-hole, par 72 championship golf course.

Perched 800 feet above the Hudson, the course offers spectacular views of the Hudson Highlands. The woodsy terrain challenges golfers with rolling hills, elevation changes, and tough tee shots over deep ravines.

H E A LT H

Hudson Valley Skincare 3 Charles St., Ste. 4, Pleasant Valey (845) 635-4087 hudsonvalleyskincare.com Natural skin and hair care products, freshly handmade in small batches in the Hudson Valley. We proudly incorporate fresh, local ingredients into our products—including—Wild Hive oats, Hyde Park Brewery beer, Coach Farms goat milk, Remsburger Farm honey and maple syrup.

Since

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H O M E

L IFE ST YL E

H O S P I TA L I TY

M A N AG EM ENT

LUNDEXPRESSIONS.COM

(845) 232-5783 • PKICEHOUSE.COM 1 MAIN STREET • POUGHKEEPSIE, NY

Ethan Allen Rt. 32, 94 North Plank Rd.,Newburgh (845) 565-6000; ethanallen.com Daily 9–5:30; Sat 10–5:30; Sun noon–5.

The Bells have been offering the finest in home furnishings since 1955 and have expanded their store to offer the new, up-to-date Ethan Allen look featuring country, casual, contem­porary, and traditional furniture and acces­ sories. Their staff offers compli­men­tary interior design service and in-home house calls.

Hudson Valley Home Center 33 W. Market St., Red Hook (845) 332-6113; hudson-valley-home.com Newly opened (September 2014), we offer interior, landscape and residential design and build services.

Catered to your lifestyle, we create a space as unique as your needs and provide the expertise for renovations, additions, new construction, spatial planning and building skills necessary to complete it. ­K I T C H E N

• 214-0000 MILLPK.COM 4 6 VA S S A R R D • P O U G H K E E P S I E , N Y (845)

Warren Kitchen & Cutlery 6934 Rt. 9, Rhinebeck (845) 876-6208 warrenkitchentools.com Mon–Sat 9:30–5:30; Sun 11–4:30.

The Hudson Valley’s complete source for professional kitchen knives and tools, commercial quality cookware, bake­ware, pocket knives and wood­ carving tools. We stock the largest selection of name-brand cutlery in the region at prices well below retail.

Knife sets, knife blocks and carving boards. Pro­fessional knife sharpening while you wait.

M A R K E T S

Adams Fairacre Farms 1560 Ulster Ave., Kingston (845) 336-6300 1240 Rt. 300, Newburgh (845) 569-0303 765 Dutchess Tnpk, Poughkeepsie (845) 454-4330 160 Old Post Rd., Wappingers (845) 632-9955; adamsfarms.com Open daily.

A family-owned farm market/garden center. A cornucopia of fresh produce, meats, fish, deli, and prepared foods.

Featuring Hudson Valley products, a great selection of the best local cheese, meat, produce and more.

(845) 632-3860 • TWINSBARBECUE.COM

1 2 8 9 R T 9 , S T. 1 • WA P P I N G E R S FA L L S , N Y

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Beacon Pantry 267 Main St., Beacon (845) 440-8923; beaconpantry.com Mon-Sat 7-8; Sun 7-6.

Providing artisan food and artisan service to Beacon and beyond, Beacon Pantry features more than 50 varieties of cut-to-order domestic and imported cheese and charcuterie.

Large selection of local, Italian and hard-to-find French pantry items,

grass-fed local meats and dairy.

Stumptown coffee, unique choco­ lates, fine pastries and desserts.

Serving European style sandwiches and cheese plates. Catering for any size event.

Main Course 175 Main St., New Paltz (845) 255-2600 maincoursecatering.com Tue–Thur, Sat 11–9; Fri til 10; Sun 9–9.

Try something new. Bruce Kazan, award-winning caterer and restaurateur, opens a new sustainable takeaway market, featuring the bounty of the Hudson Valley in easy, delicious meals to eat in or take away.

N A T U R A L

F O O D S

Beacon Natural Market 348 Main St., Beacon (845) 838-1288 beaconnaturalmarket.com Mon–Sat 9–7; Sun 10–5.

Lighting the way for a healthier world.

Featuring organic prepared foods, deli and juice bar, organic and regional produce, meats, and cheeses. Since 2005, proprietors L.T. & Kitty Sherpa are dedicated to ser­ving the Hudson Valley with a complete selection of products that are good for you and good for the planet, including an extensive alterna­tive health depart­ ment. Nutrition­ist on staff. Catering available.

Mother Earth’s 300 Kings Mall Ct., Kingston (845) 336-5541 249 Main St., Saugerties (845) 246-9614 1955 South Rd., Poughkeepsie (845) 296-1069 motherearthstorehouse.com Open daily.

Offering the finest natural foods, bulk spices, herbs, vitamins, supple­ments and organic produce. The valley’s best organic, hot and cold takeout at our Kingston and Pough­keepsie locations.

Sunflower Natural Market 75 Mill Hill Rd., Woodstock (845) 679-5361 sunflowernatural.com natural@hvc.rr.com Mon–Fri 8–9; Sat 9–9; Sun 10–7.

The area’s most complete natural foods market, featuring certified organic pro­duce, organic milk, cheeses and eggs, a wide range of bulk organic grains and nuts, non-irradiated herbs and spices, plus vitamins, homeo­pathic & body care products.

P A S T A

La Bella Pasta 906 Rt. 28, Kingston (845) 331-9130 lbpasta.com Mon–Fri 10–6; Sat 11–3; closed­Sun. Fresh pasta made locally using only the finest ingredients. Large variety of ravioli (including vegan), tortellini, pastas and sauces. We manufacture

and deliver our excellent product to fine restaurants, gour­m et shops and caterers throughout the Hudson Valley. Call for full product list and samples. Located on Rt. 28 West between Kingston & Woodstock.

R E A L

E S T A T E

Northern Dutchess Realty 6423 Montgomery St., Rhinebeck (845) 876-8588; northerndutchessrealty.com Serving Dutchess and Columbia coun­ ties for all your real estate needs. With the right help, buying or selling a country property can be a pleasure.

R E S T A U R A N T S

Angelina’s Cold Spring 43 Chestnut St., Cold Spring (845) 265-7078; angelinascoldspring.com Mon-Sat 11–9, Sun noon–9.

Everyday Italian food, everyday people. Come in and try out our almost famous Pizza from Mars—voted best pizza topping.

Another Fork in the Road 1215 Rt. 199, Milan (845) 758-6676 anotherforkintheroadmilan. wordpress.com Breakfast 9–3; Lunch 11–3; Dinner 5–9.

Eat something you have never had before or have a burger. Craft beers and wines.

Aroma Osteria 114 Old Post Rd., Wappingers Falls (845) 298-6790 aromaosteriarestaurant.com Lunch Tue–Sat; Dinner Tue–Sun; closed­ Mon. Voted Best Italian Restaurant by Hudson Valley magazine; Poughkeep­sie Journal awards four stars. A romantic, relaxed atmosphere with an elegant cocktail bar in a beauti­ful setting.

Here, rustic Italian cuisine is served with a unique and ex­ten­sive selection of Italian wines (many available by the glass). Catering for all occasions available on or off premises.

Beacon Bread Company 193 Main St., Beacon (845) 838-2867; beaconbread.com 7 days 7-5.

Come in and enjoy our made-fromscratch food. Drop by for our all-day breakfast.

Bluestone Bistro 10 IBM Rd., Poughkeepsie (845) 462-1100 Mon-Thur 11-9; Fri-Sat 11-10; Sun 4-9 Bluestone Bistro serves an eclectic menu in a casual and friendly atmosphere. Our signature Brick Oven Mac & Cheese and Chicken Pot Pie are sure to warm the senses.

The menu features local ingredients to create the freshest seasonal fare.

Our affordable wine list provides an amazing value and our craft beer selection and specialty cocktails are sure to please. Bluestone’s Proprietor

is a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America and is also the Proprietor of Simply Gourmet, which specializes in customized off site catering.

Brasserie 292 292-294 Main St., Poughkeepsie (845) 473-0292; brasserie292.com Mon–Thur 11–9:30; Fri til 10:30; Sat 2–10:30; Sun 11–9.

A thoroughly modern American bistro offering timeless, classic Brasserie fare, a well-stocked bar, banquet seating, amidst glass, copper and tile. Menu offerings range from raw bar to rib eye, soup to tarte tatin.

restaurant | bistro | bar

Cafe Amarcord 276 Main St., Beacon (845) 440-0050; cafeamarcord.com Tue–Thur noon–10; Fri, Sat noon–11; Sun noon–9; closed­Mon. Creative New American cuisine with Italian undertones, served in a warm contem­porary atmosphere. Enjoy an artisanal cocktail in the amber glow of the onyx bar before having dinner in the bistro-style dining room or under the awning of our Main Street terrace.

Bring colleagues for a casual lunch or a date for a romantic night out.

Cafe Mio 2356 Rt. 44/55, Gardiner (845) 765-8502; miogardiner.com Breakfast & lunch Wed–Sun 8:30–4:30 A popular, casual café overlooking the Shawangunk Mountains. We are proud to offer the freshest local fare, drawing from our many surrounding farms—something that is at the core of our food philosophy. A varied selection of wines and craft beers.

Canterbury Brook Inn 331 Main St., Cornwall (845) 534-9658 canterburybrookinn.com Dinner Tue–Sat from 5.

Hosts Hans and Kim Baumann offer fine Swiss continental cuisine featuring veal, duck,chick­­ en, Schnit­ zel, pasta, filet mignon, fresh fish and much more. Enjoy a fabulous dessert while sipping a frothing cappuccino or espresso. We specialize in both on- and off-premise catering. Outdoor brookside dining.

Reservations suggested.

Cathryn’s Tuscan Grill 91 Main St., Cold Spring (845) 265-5582; tuscangrill.com Daily noon–10:30; Brunch Sun. Flight Night Tue, 7–9:30.

Follow the red brick walk off Main St. through a landscaped garden into a romantic din­ing scene. Choose from an array of Northern Italian dishes such as pulled rabbit with fresh pappardelle pasta, seedless grapes & grappa sauce; and grilled partridge with blackberries, pearl onions, and panchetta with a red wine sauce. Reasonably pric­ed wines.

Small private party room is a mem­orable festive Tuscan accent.

Clock Tower Grill Kitchen & Bar 512 Clock Tower Dr., Brewster Lunch Tues-Fri; Dinner Tues-Sun 12-9 (845) 582-0574

celebrate the season at terrapin. ask about our holiday events, including the annual holiday beer dinner, christmas eve and new year’s eve dinner. gift certificates always available.

local organic authentic lunch & dinner daily in rhinebeck 845-876-3330 terrapinrestaurant.com

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Set in a renovated barn, the atmosphere is casual yet sophisticated; the menu “rustic American” with many ingredients drawn from area farms. ­­Cosimo’s Restaurant Group Cosimo’s On Union 1217 Rt. 300, Newburgh (845) 567-1556; fax (845) 567-9246

Fine Food • Great Beer • Good Friends

Cosimo’s Middletown 620 Rt. 211 East, Middletown (845) 692-3242 Cosimo’s Poughkeepsie 120 Delafield St., Poughkeepsie (845) 485-7172 Cosimo’s Woodbury Rt. 32, Central Valley (845) 928-5222 cosimosrestaurantgroup.com Lunch & Dinner daily.

Casual trattoria-style dining with some of the world’s best wines. Old-style Italian cuisine with a New World twist. Daily specials, pasta, fish and meat dishes. Distinctive cocktail lounges, a unique wine cellar for private dinner parties and beau­ti­ful catering facilities.

Craft 47 47 W. Main St., Goshen (845) 360-5253; craft47.com Tue–Thu noon–10; Fri, Sat noon–midnight; Sun noon–10; closed Mon. Kick back, relax and sample the best of the Hudson Valley at Craft 47. We offer small plate American tapas, craft wine and 12 craft beers on tap, with even more in the cooler.

Crave Restaurant & Lounge 129 Washington St., Poughkeepsie (845) 452-3501 craverestaurantandlounge.com Dinner Wed–Sat 4–10; Sun 11:30–9; closed Mon, Tue. Chef Ed Kowalski serves contem­porary food with modern twists in a romantic and intimate setting located directly under the Walkway Over The Hudson.

T Live Music!

S E B e Featuring th

call us today to book your holiday party!

Located Across from the FDR Library and Museum Located on Route Post 9 Across from 4076 Albany Road the FDR Library and Museum Hyde Park, NY 12538 • 4076 Albany Post Road 845-229-TAPS (8277) (8277) Hyde Park, NY • 845-229-TAPS www.hydeparkbrewing.com www.hydeparkbrewing.com 78

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The Culinary Institute of America Rt. 9, 1946 Campus Dr., Hyde Park (845) 471-6608 ciachef.edu/restaurants The worlds’ premier culinary college offers exceptional global cuisine in its award-winning restaurants: American Bounty, which celebrates the seasons and products of the Hudson Valley; The Bocuse Restaurant, which reimagines classic French cuisine using modern techniques; Ristorante Caterina de’ Medici, which features authentic regional Italian dishes; and the Al Forno Trattoria, a casual stop for rustic dishes. The Apple Pie Bakery Café offers sumptuous baked goods and café fare.

Farm-To-Table Bistro 1083 Rt. 9, Fishkill (845) 297-1111; ftbistro.com Mon-Thur 11:30-9:30; Fri & Sat til 10; Sun til 9; Brunch Sun. The focus at Farm to Table Bistro

is always on finding the best the world has to offer: the best produce, the best wine, the best beef and certainly the best fish & seafood. We pride ourselves on delicious food – American cuisine at its best.

Frogmore Tavern 63 North Front St., Kingston 845-802-0883 Sun 11-9; Mon-Thur 12-10; Fri-Sat 12-11 or later We are a tavern nestled in the neighborhood of uptown Kingston specializing in gastro pub fare. Our focus is on house smoked/cured meats such as pastrami, duck bacon, andouille and hunters sausage. We pour 12 craft beers with constant rotation, offer fresh cocktails with seasonal ingredients and feature a late night menu Fri/Sat. Gerardo’s Seafood Cafe 244 Main St., Beacon (845) 831-8500 Mon, Wed-Sun 11-9; closed Tue. Small, cozy restaurant with beautiful exposed brick offers customers a great dining experience. BYOB. Gino’s Restaurant 1671 Rt. 9, Wappingers Falls (845) 297-8061 ginoswappingers.com Tue–Thur 11:30–9; Fri & Sat 11:30–10; Sun 1–9; closed­Mon. Serving the Hudson Valley since 1984.

Traditional southern Italian cuisine in a casual environment. Only the freshest ingredients used to prepare your favorite veal, chick­en, seafood and pasta dishes. Catering on- and off-premise.

Henry’s At Buttermilk Falls 220 North Rd., Milton (845) 795-1310 henrysatbuttermilk.com Lunch Fri, Sat; Dinner Wed–Sun; Brunch Sun. Local comes alive at this bucolic Inn & Spa, where the main ingredients are sourced from local producers and purveyors. An inventive menu features a fresh selection of large and small plates from casual burger and fries to refined New American dishes. Enjoy a pre-dinner stroll through the organic gardens and orchards or a drink overlooking the Hudson River and sweeping lawns. Al fresco dining available.

The Hop: Craft Beer & Artisanal Fare 458 Main St., Beacon (845) 440-8676; thehopbeacon.com Wed–Thur noon–9; Fri & Sat noon–11; Sun noon–8; closed­Mon & Tue. Share our love of finely crafted beers and passion for house-made char­ cuterie, local cheeses, and seasonal fare. Come enjoy a meal with us and then take a look at the amazing beer selection and specialty food items we have available for retail. Seating at the Chef’s Table is also available by reservation.

Hudson House River Inn 2 Main St., Cold Spring (845) 265-9355 hudsonhouseinn.com

Lunch Wed-Sat 11:30-3:30 Dinner Wed-Thur 5-9; Fri & Sat til 10 Sun 4:30-9; Brunch Sun 11:30-3:30 A historic 1832 landmark located directly on the Hudson River in Cold Spring, the Hudson House is the perfect place for a romantic dinner or a family/friend gathering. Specializes in dry aged steaks and market fresh fish as well as other delicious chef creations. Enjoy a fabulous Sunday Brunch with the best bellini’s in town.

Hudson’s Ribs & Fish 1099 Rt. 9, Fishkill (845) 297-5002 hudsonsribsandfish.com Open Mon-Thur 5-10; Fri 5-11 Sat 4-11; Sun 2-9 Established in 1989, Hudson’s is the premier steak and seafood restaurant in the Hudson Valley serving handcut steaks, fresh seafood, chicken, pasta and other chef specialties. Hot popovers with strawberry butter are a house specialty! Award winning wine list and outrageous martini menu.

Private party accommodations for group up to 75 guests.

Hudson Street Café 237 Hudson St., Cornwall-on-Hudson (845) 534-2450; hudsonstreetcafe.com Mon–Fri 6–3; Sat 7–3; Sun 7–2.

Good food served here. Breakfast includes housemade corn and oat bran pancakes, huevos rancheros and scones baked fresh every morning.

Lunches include a turkey brie panini and housemade empanadas. Delicious dinners with comfort classics like Donna’s meatloaf, and buttermilk fried chicken, as well as seasonal specials.

Custom catering.

Il Barilotto 1113 Main St., Fishkill (845) 897-4300 ilbarilottorestaurant.com Lunch & Dinner Mon–Sat; closed­Sun. Blending the old with the new, Eduardo Lauria, chef-owner of Aroma Osteria, transformed an historic brick building in the heart of Fishkill to a trattoria and wine bar. The fare is Italian peasant with a con­temporary flair. The selection of regional wines from Italy—available by the glass or flight—is extensive.

Catering on- and off-premises.

Joseph’s Steakhouse 728 Violet Ave. (Rt. 9G), Hyde Park (845) 473-2333 josephs-steakhouse.com Mon–Thur 4–9; Fri, Sat noon–10; Sun 12-course brunch noon; Sun dinner 3-8.

Located next to (Eleanor’s Roosevelt’s) Val-Kil National Park. The Steakhouse for dinner, The Tea Room for lunch and banquet room for dinner shows & private parties.

Leo’s Ristorante Rt. 9D, Wappingers Falls (845) 838-3446 22 Quaker Ave., Cornwall (845) 534-3446 1433 Rt. 300, Newburgh (845) 564-3446

leospizzeria.com Mon–Sat 11–10; Sun 2–9.

A family favorite since 1981, Leo’s offers traditional classic Italian dishes, pizza, hot/cold subs, pasta, veal, chicken and appetizers. Daily specials and catering for all occasions whether in our location or yours. Great food served in a comfortable and relaxed atmosphere.

Mexicali Blue 87 Main St., New Paltz (845) 255-5551 1571 Rt. 9, Wappingers Falls (845) 298-8226; mexicali-blue.com Using fresh, natural ingredients, Mexicali Blue serves up delicious Southwestern and Californian style cuisine in a fun, colorful setting. Tacos and burritos top the menu. Mexican beer and margarita’s top the drinks list.

The Mill 46 Vassar Rd., Poughkeepsie (845) 204-9083; millpk.com Executive Chef & Hudson Valley Native, Mark Haslam, features fresh seasonal and local artisanal foods. Our casual and upbeat atmosphere coupled with our knowledge­able staff, acoustic entertain­ment and cozy indoor and outdoor dining make us the destination that serves all of our guests the dining experience they deserve. Come say hello, make friends and join us for a fantastic meal!

Mill House Brewing Company 289 Mill St., Poughkeepsie (845) 485-2739; millhousebrewing.com Lunch, dinner Mon, Wed–Sun; closed Tue. Offers a warm, historic and visually appealing setting, casual, yet profes­ sional service, food cooked from as close to the source as possible, and artfully crafted ales.

Ship Lantern Inn — Est 1925 —

Lunch · Dinner · Twilight Specials

“Most Romantic” “Best Restaurant —Ulster County” 1725 Route 9W, Milton (845) 795-5400 · shiplanterninn.com

HAPPY HOUR 4-7PM Mon-Thurs

Nina 27 W. Main St., Middletown (845) 344-6800; nina-restaurant.com Lunch Mon–Sat 11:30–2:30; dinner Mon–Sun from 5; Brunch Sun 9:30–2.

NYC-trained chef Franz Brendle brings an elegant flair to classic American cuisine. Features include filet mignon roquefort, shrimp asparagus risotto, and seafood specials. Nice selection of wines in various price ranges. Friendly staff, cozy decor. Hearty Sun brunch.

Porco Cafe Fresh 138 South Avenue (Read Place) Poughkeepsie, NY (845) 337-3487 porcocafefresh.com Mon-Sat 11-9; Closed Sun, except for private functions Conveniently located off Route 9 exit and South Avenue next to Vassar hospital. Off street parking lot. Open for lunch and dinner. Continental cusine featuring steaks, chops and pasta. Now taking reservations for Christmas parties and New Years Eve. Poughkeepsie Ice House 1 Main St., Poughkeepsie (845) 232-5783; pkicehouse.com

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Sun–Wed 11:30­­–10; Thur–Sat til 11.

The Poughkeepsie Ice House is the anchor for the Queen Bee City. The historic Hudson Valley waterfront brick building features old world charm and walking distance to the Poughkeepsie Train Station and the Walkway over the Hudson. Public boat docking and waterfront dining are available. The food is casually sophisticated with seasonal and local inspired menus.

Puccini Ristorante 22 Garden St., Rhinebeck (845) 876-3055; puccinirhinebeck.com Tue–Sat 5–10; Sun 5–9; closed­Mon. Family owned and operated. Authentic regional Italian cuisine using local and fresh ingredients. Everything made to order. The only restaurant in Rhine­­beck with private, outdoor garden seating.

CLOCK TOWER GRILL • Kitchen & Bar American Farm-to-Table • 13 Craft Beers on Draft

845.582.0574 512 Clock Tower Drive, Brewster, New York 10509 Check website for upcoming events

www.clocktowergrill.com

Restaurant 1915 55 Hessian Dr., Bear Mountain (845) 786.2731 x.1915 visitbearmountain.com Thur–Sun 5–9.

Located at the historic Bear Mountain Inn, enjoy a seasonal menu in a beautiful lodge setting.

SMOKY

RiverMarket Bar & Kitchen 127 W. Main St., Tarrytown (914) 631-3100; rivermarketbarandkitchen.com Lunch, dinner daily Innovative, epicurean hub featuring a restaurant, bar, wood-fired pizzeria, wine and spirits store, and farmers’ market. Located on Tarrytown’s riverfront just a stone’s throw from the MetroNorth station.

ROCK

BBQ Plan Your Next Event or Party Here · Parking Available Lunch & Dinner, CLosed Tuesdays · Eat In/Take Out

Now you can enjoy real, authentic smokehouse BBQ in the village of Rhinebeck

Craft beer / Full Bar 6367 Mill St (Rt 9) Rhinebeck (845) 876-5232 | smokyrockbbq.com

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Queen City Bistro 206 Main St., Poughkeepsie (845) 337-4684; queencitybistro.com Lunch Tue–Fri 11–3; Sat, Sun 10–3; dinner Tue–Thur 5–10; Fri, Sat 5–11; Sun 5–10 Indulge in American style small plate cuisine for lunch, dinner or a weekend brunch. Queen City promotes close relationships with local farms to bring the freshest ingredients to our menu.

We offer a full bar, featuring craft beer from the Hudson Valley as well as an international selection.

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and his home to a gorgeous outdoor beer garden. You’ll find all your drink and eat needs at his casual Poughkeepsie gem.

Ship Lantern Inn 1725 Rt. 9W, Milton (845) 795-5400 shiplanterninn.com Dinner nightly; Closed Mon. Lunch: Thur & Fri 12-2 Dinner: Sun 1-8; Tues-Fri 4-9:30; Sat 4-10:30 This classic New American-Continental has been serving genuine hospitality since 1925 and is consistently rated the “Most Romantic” and “Best Ulster County Restaurant.” Professional service, warm ambiance and fine cuisine combine for a relaxing dining experience. Enjoy a special prix-fixe twilight menu weekdays, Sat evenings and Sun afternoons.

Smoky Rock BBQ 6367 Mill St. (Rt. 9), Rhinebeck (845) 876-5232; smokyrockbbq.com Lunch & Dinner, closed Tues Enjoy authentic, slow-smoked barbeque—all made in-house with age-cured beef and pork and our signature rub in a pleasing American décor or on our spacious patio. The drink list includes a large selection of craft beers, Kentucky bourbons and local spirits. This is BBQ at its best.

Stissing House 7801 South Main St., Pine Plains (518) 398-8800; stissinghouse.com Dinner Wed–Sun; closed­Mon, Tue. Open since 1782, it is one of America’s oldest and longest operated restau­rants.

Serving a cuisine based on French culinary principles, utilizing our wood burning oven and grill and an array of local products, chef owners Michel and Patricia Jean make this a unique spot for lunch, dinner or banquet.

SMOKY ROCK

Tavern At Highlands 955 Rt. 9D, Garrison (845) 424-3254 ext. 16 highlandscountryclub.net Dinner Thur–Sat; midday menu Sat, Sun. Refined farm-to-table comfort food, a great NY artisanal beer list and expanded wine selections make this a favorite among locals. Multiple fire­ places, wide plank floors and family style tables provide a warm, invi­ting spot. The outdoor custom-built fire pit allows diners to enjoy its blazing warmth, star gazing and conversation.

The enclosed south veran­­dah is open for cocktails and dining.

BBQ

The Roundhouse 2 E. Main St., Beacon (845) 765-8369 roundhousebeacon.com Serving a locally inspired, seasonal menu, the restaurant offers stunning waterfall views in its Rockwell Group designed dining room. The adjoining lounge features a menu of small plates, craft beer, and artisanal cocktails. With Executive Chef Brandon Collins at the helm, both the restaurant and lounge provide gorgeous setting for enjoying an exceptional meal or distinctive drink.

Schatzi’s Pub & Bier Garden 202 Main St., Pougkeepsie (845) 454-1179 schatzispubpk.com Located a block from the Civic Center this space offers German/American Gastro pub fare. It houses 15 tap lines

Terrapin Restaurant & Red Bistro 6426 Montgomery St., Rhinebeck (845) 876-3330 terrapinrestaurant.com Lunch & Dinner daily.

From far-flung origins, the world’s most diverse flavors meet and mingle here. From elements both historic and eclectic comes something surprising, fresh and dynamic: dishes to delight body and soul. Choose fine dining in Terrapin’s dining room or casual fare in the bistro-style atmosphere of Red

Bistro & Bar. From good burgers and quesadillas to wild salmon and local filet mignon. Terrapin’s local organic and authentic menu satisfies all.

Thyme Restaurant 3605 Crompond Rd., Yorktown Hts (914) 788-8700; thymerestaurant.net Lunch & Dinner Tue–Sun 11:30–10; Brunch Sun 11:30–2.

Step into Thyme for a relaxing meal of distinguished flavors. Chef-own­er Tom Costello offers a menu of masterly crafted dishes featuring Con­temporary American fare in a warm and inviting setting. Explore the diverse wine list and seasonal cocktail specials.

Tito Santana Taqueria 142 Main St., Beacon (845) 765-2350; tacosantana.com 7 days 11-9.

Tito Santana Taqueria offers a fresh twist on Mexican food. Fish tacos to falafel press, great vegan fare.

Trattoria San Giorgio 3279 Franklin Ave., Millbrook (845) 677-4566; facebook.com/ trattoriasangiorgio Mon-Tue, Thur-Sat Lunch & Dinner; Sun Brunch & Dinner; closed­Wed. Family-owned and operated, our casual trattoria specializes in Neapolitan pizza made in a wood-fired oven. We use quality, imported ingredients and have partnerships with local purveyors to bring you authentic Neapolitan cuisine.

We are proud of our selection of Italian craft beers and wines. Full bar and outdoor seating available.

Tuthill House at the Mill 20 Gristmill Ln., Gardiner (845) 255-4151; tuthillhouse.com Sun–Thur 11:30–9; Fri, Sat 11:30–10; closed­ Wed. Homemade American cuisine featur­ing prime steaks, grass-fed beef, seafood and pasta in an historic 1788 Grist Mill.

Our menu is inspired by Italian and American country cooking, featuring fresh, local artisanal products and ingredients of the Hudson Valley.

Valley at the Garrison 2015 US 9, Garrison (845) 424-3604 thegarrison.com/restaurants Valley: Dinner Thur–Sun 5–9; mid-day menu Sat, Sun 11:30–2:30.

Terrace: Mon–Thur 8–6; Fri–Sun 7–7.

Valley, The Garrison’s signature fine dining restaurant offers seasonal American Cuisine. Many ingredients are sourced from Garrison Farm, as well as other farms in the region. Terrace Grill, a casual dining venue, supplies guests with muffins and morning items, as well as burgers, salads and light fare all day.

The Village Tea Room 10 Plattekill Ave., New Paltz (845) 255-3434 thevillagetearoom.com Tues–Sun 8am-9pm.

The Village Tea Room is a unique gath­ er­ing place, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner as well as a variety of teas.

Tantalizing cakes and cookies. Organic honey, pot pies and roast chick­e n.

Zagat survey says “Irish ex-pat Agnes Devereux has a real winner.”

West Main Bar & Kitchen 2710 W. Main St., Wappingers Falls (845) 297-0510; westmainkitchenandbar.com Lunch & Dinner Wed-Mon 11:30am–9pm; Fri & Sat til 12am.

A friendly new American style restaurant in the village of Wappingers Falls. The menu changes seasonally and displays Mexican, Italian and Asian flavors. Also offers a private banquet room that seats up to 50 for private events.

Wildfire Grill 74 Clinton St., Montgomery (845) 457-3770 wildfireny.com Lunch Mon-Sat 11:30–3; Sun 12–3; Dinner Sun-Thur 5–9; Fri & Sat 5–10 Eclectic is the buzzword at this popular local eatery, where patrons can feast on a predominantly American menu with Asian, Mexican and Italian influences in a rustic Victorian setting.

The Would 120 North Rd., Highland (845) 691-9883; thewould.com Tue–Sat 5pm.

Dine amid the apple orchards. A long history of warm hospitality and inno­ vative New American cuisine makes for a popular destination. CIA trained chefs show dedication to great ingredients and seasonality for sophisticated fare.

For a lighter option, try the bistro menu.

Xaviar’s Restaurant Group Chef-owner Peter Kelly offers his sig­­­na­­­­ ture service and exceptional cuisine to 4 locations. Critics agree: dining in the valley will never be the same.

Xaviar’s at Piermont 506 Piermont Ave., Piermont (845) 359-7007 Lunch Fri & Sun noon–2; dinner Wed–Fri 6–9; Sat seatings 6 & 9; Sun 5–8.

Freelance Café & Wine Bar 506 Piermont Ave., Piermont (845) 365-3250 Lunch Tue–Sun noon–3; Dinner Tue–Thur 5:30–10; Fri til 10:30; Sat til 11; Sun 5–10.

Eclectic

American Cuisine

Restaurant X & Bully Boy Bar 117 North Rt. 303, Congers (845) 268-6555 Lunch Tue–Fri noon–2:30; Dinner Tue–Thur 5:30–10; Fri 5–10:30; Sat til 11; Sun til 8; closed­Mon. X2O Xaviars on the Hudson 71 Water Grant Way, Yonkers (914) 965-1111 Lunch Tue–Fri; Dinner Tue–Sun; Brunch Sun. S P A

Giannetta Salon & Spa 1158 North Ave., Beacon (845) 831-2421 giannettasalonandspa.com Tue­–Thur 9–8; Fri 9–9; Sat 8–4;Sun 11–4.

Fresh & Local Ingredients

Lunch - Dinner - Wine Bar O n & O f f S i t e C at e ri n g Ava i l a b le KRISTA WILD, Owner www.wildfireny.com

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Full service salon and spa that offers services such as facials, makeup, wedding packages, manicures and pedicures and waxing.

T O U R I S M­

Mon–Fri 6AM-3PM Sat 7AM-3PM Sun 7AM-2PM Available evenings for catering

DONNA HAMMOND Executive Chef

Custom Catering

237 Hudson Street, Cornwall-on-Hudson astor wines 66_Layoutwww.hudsonstreetcafe.com 1 4/8/14 2:54 PM Page 1 845.534.2450

Sullivan County Visitors Association (800) 882-CATS; SCVA.net Explore the festivities and natural beauty of Sullivan County through the trails, res­taurants, shops, and fall festivals.

Westchester County Tourism (800) 833-9282; visitwestchesterny.com W H O L E S A L E

Manhattan Beer Distributors manhattanbeer.com (718) 292-9300 A diversified distributor of high quality beers, ciders, wines, waters, and spirits.

Visit our website for the complete list of products, including a wide variety of craft beers, such as Keegan Ales and Captain Lawrence.

RRatCorks, Inc. Astor Square Wines for the discerning consumer

6815 Route 9N, Rhinebeck

845-876-8444

Red Barn Produce 217 Upper North Rd., Highland (845) 691-7428 Full-service, family-owned and opera­t­ ed wholesaler servicing restaurants and institutions with a complete selection of fruits and vegetables for 20 years. A proud distributor of local NY quality produce at competitive prices empha­ sizing reliable and personal service.

Pick-up or delivery available to Dut­ chess, Columbia, Ulster and Orange.

W I N E

&

S P I R I T S

Dutchess Wine Cellar 1955 South Rd (Rte. 9), Poughkeepsie (845) 218-9044 facebook.com/dutchesswine Mon–Fri 10:30–7; Sat 11–7; Sun noon–6.

Mid Valley Wine & Liquor 39 N Plank Rd., Newburgh (845) 562-1070 midvalleywine.com Mon–Sat 9–9; Sun noon–6.

15,000-sq-ft.shop with 8,600+ labels, 400-square-ft, climate-control­led room for fine wines. Tastings Fri evenings and

Sat afternoons. Wine seminars and wine courses are offered periodically. Friend­ ly, knowledge­able staff. UPS shipping.

New Paltz Wine & Spirits 245 Main St., New Paltz (845) 255-8528; newpaltzwine.com Mon–Sat 10–9; Sun noon–7.

Full-service wine shop, offering a wide variety of wines and spirits available in all price ranges to suit your needs. Large local selection, friendly, know­ledge­able service, case dis­counts, special orders.

RR Corks at Astor Square 6815 Rt. 9N, Rhinebeck (845) 876-8444 A charming little wine and spirit shop on the outskirts of Rhinebeck.

W I N E R I E S

Stoutridge Vineyard 10 Ann Kaley Ln., Marlboro (845) 263-7620; stoutridge.com Many of our wines and spirits are locally grown and all are from NY fruits and grains. Our wines are sold exclusively at the winery. Enjoy an authentic taste of the Hudson Valley at our winery, distillery and grounds.

Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery 114 Little York Rd., Warwick (845) 258-4858; wvwinery.com Open daily 11–6 for tastings.

Food & Wine calls our draft cider “clean, vibrant” with a “sweet finish.” We produce wine for every occasion: Chardonnay, Riesling, Harvest Moon, Black Dirt Blush and Red, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir. As the Valley’s first distillery, we produce a line of fine brandies and liqueurs. Bakery Cafe serves lunch and fresh breads weekends.

Whitecliff Vineyard 331 McKinstry Rd., Gardiner (845) 255-4613; whitecliffwine.com Daily 11:30–5:30; Sat til 6pm.

One of the valley’s largest vineyards boasts beautiful views of the Shawan­ gunk Ridge. Owner/wine­maker Michael Mig­li­ore produces award-winning wines from European vinifera varietals such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Riesling, as well as new hybrids. Visit our friendly tasting room. Winery tours by appointment, special events.

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CAFE´

LOC AL

FA R E

2356 RT 44/55 GARDINER, NY 12525

8:30–4:30 closed tues. breakfast & lunch all day catering

845 • 255 • 4949 WWW.MIOGARDINER.COM 82

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22 Garden Street • Rhinebeck New York 12572 (845)876-3055 • puccinirhinebeck.com

THE VILLAGE TEA ROOM BREAKFAST

~ LUNCH ~ AFTERNOON TEA ~ DINNER ~ CATERING

10 Plattekill Ave, New Paltz 845 255 3434 www.TheVillageTeaRoom.com

Lunch & Dinner 138 South Avenue Poughkeepsie, NY 845-337-3487

porcocafefresh.com

Gre

RRatCorks, Inc. Astor Square Wines for the discerning consumer

6815 Route 9N, Rhinebeck

Mon–Fri 6AM-3PM Sat 7AM-3PM Sun 7AM-2PM Available evenings for catering

2356 GARD

845-876-8444

845 • 2

DONNA HAMMOND Executive Chef

Custom Catering

237 Hudson Street, Cornwall-on-Hudson 845.534.2450 www.hudsonstreetcafe.com 66

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22 G (

take the pledge

T

he valley table’s hudson valley restaurant Week has been encouraging restaurant participants to use local product on their menu for nearly a decade. So it was a natural fit to partner with New York State Department of Agriculture and Markets’ “PRIDE OF NEW YORK PLEDGE” initiative. Chefs and restaurateurs from all over the state are pledging to use a minimum of 10 percent New York-made product on their menus.

Not only does the pledge showcase New York’s delicious offerings, it also supports the state’s farms and food and beverage businesses.

Here is a look at some of our local restaurants who have signed the Pride of NY Pledge:

top : ( l - r ) marcy kugeman and joe ganley , taste ny with josh kroner , terrapin restaurant middle : ralph croteau , ralph & dave ’ s bottom : john crabtree and jay lippin , crabtree ’ s kittle house

American Bounty Restaurant Cafe of Love Clock Tower Grill Cosimo’s Restaurant Group Crabtree’s Kittle House Duo Bistro Ralph & Dave’s Restaurant North Restaurant X & the Bully Boy Bar Ristorante Caterina de’ Medici & Al Forno Trattoria RiverMarket Bar & Kitchen Sam’s of Gedney Way Terrapin The Bocuse Restaurant Towne Crier Wildfire Grill Village Team Room Restaurant & Bake Shop X2O Xaviars on the Hudson

For more information and to find out how to sign the Pride of New York pledge email hvrw@valleytable.com or call 845-765-2600 x305.”

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o h l i e d h a t y e s t w a r i b t e h l e C

COSIMO’S

NEWBURGH

CENTRAL VALLEY

(845) 567-1556

(845) 928-5222

MIDDLETOWN

POUGHKEEPSIE

(845) 692-3242

(845) 485-7172

cosimosrestaurantgroup.com COSIMO'S PROUDLY SUPPORTS LOCAL FARMERS