T H E M AG A Z I N E O F H U D S O N VA L L E Y FA R M S , F O O D A N D C U I S I N E NUMBER 70 JUNE–AUGUST 2015
WWW.VALLEYTABLE.COM
CLASSICO
{
E
M O D E R N O I TA L I A N O
WITH A HUDSON RIVER POINT OF VIEW
}
1 RIVER STREET • HASTINGS ON HUDSON, NY • 914.478.2800 • HARVESTHUDSON.COM
COMING THIS SUMMER!
THE YANKEE Revolutionary Barbecue & Beer Garden
TAKE YOUR SEAT TO GREAT BARBECUE, ICE COLD BEER, LIVE ENTERTAINMENT y GOOD OLD AMERICAN FUN ! Located at a site of America’s Revolutionary War Encampment, just south of Route 84 (Fishkill Golf, behind the Dutchess Mall)
www.theyankeebbq.com
T:3.4”
All the ingredients for good health. Learn more at healthquest.org T:4.75”
N O R T H E R N D U TC H ES S H O S P I TA L P U T N A M H O S P I TA L C E N T E R VA S S A R B R OT H E R S M E D I C A L C E N T E R THE HEART CENTER H E A LT H Q U ES T M E D I C A L P R AC T I C E Health Quest Medical Practice, P.C. Hudson Valley Cardiovascular Practice, P.C. Accessibility/TTY: (800) 421-1220
2
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
A CLASSIC
I S
SOM ET H I NG
T H AT
LOOK S
GREAT NOW A N D
E V E N
G R E A T E R
LATER
T H E E L E G A N T S H E LTO N S O FA , N I P P E D, T U C K E D, T U F T E D A N D TA I LO R E D BY HAND IN OUR NORTH AMERICAN W O R K S H O P S . C O M P L I M E N TA R Y DESIGN ER SER V ICES AVA IL A BL E.
THE NEXT CLASSICS NEWBURGH THE BELLS’ AN AUTHORIZED ETHAN ALLEN RETAILER ROUTE 32 94 NORTH PLANK ROAD 845.565.6000 ©2015 Ethan Allen Global, Inc
ValleyTable_Summer_6.1.indd 1
4/14/15 2:45 PM
june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
3
Wine & Wow!
14
award winning
WINERIES
in the beautiful Hudson Valley, just a short drive from NYC Come see why Wine Enthusiast Magazine named New York State “Wine Region of the Year”
GunksWine.com
4
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
number 70 june–august 2015
44
features 35
twisted soul: a world of flavors Ira Lee travels the world every year looking for new flavors, new ingredients and new food experiences. He brings it all home and works it into dishes at his Poughkeepsie restaurant. What he serves is beyond fusion cuisine—it’s a whole new world of flavors that he’s just beginning to explore. by Marissa Sertich Velie
44
hepworth farm: beyond organic Amy Hepworth is the seventh generation to work the family farm in southern Ulster County. A lot has changed over the years, some things for the better, some not. For Hepworth and her partners that’s perfectly alright, because for them, farming isn’t just about growing things, it’s about principles— ecological principles, economic principles, and social justice. by Christine Gritmon
67
a gluten-free primer Celiac disease. Non-celiac gluten hypersensitivity. For 30 million Americans who suffer from these maladies, eating dinner at a restaurant used to be an exercise in futility—a decade ago, few chefs had even heard the words gluten-free, and still fewer offered gluten-free dishes on their menus. Not any more—gluten is the new dietary buzzword, and in case you haven’t heard it yet, here’s the scoop.
JUNE
–
AUGUST
2015
VALLEYTABLE . COM
5
number 70
25 15 Good Stuff 20 Openings
39
departments
Jane’s turns 30, recycling mash, perfect pickles, Migliore honored (again!), county fairs, stout floats, not-so-good news about coffee and olive oil, summer events and more. Lucoli, Commune Saloon, Drink More Good, Shindig, North River Hops & Brewing, Porco Cafe, Scalia Craft Kitchen & Bar, Blu Pointe
25 Eating by the Season Tomatoes, by Robin Cherry 39 Drink Summer tonic: Gin, by Timothy Buzinski 52 Farmers’ Markets in the Hudson Valley 2015 63 Locally Grown Flight of the monarchs, by Keith Stewart 76 Index of advertisers 78 Directory 88 Last Call Farms, food, fairness
recipes
29 Spicy tomato ketchup (Catherine Sweet) 29 Thai tomato cocktail (Amy Goldman) 30 Tomato-olive-caper compote; Oven-dried tomatoes (Robert Horton / An American Bistro) 31 Cosimo’s tomato sauce two ways (Nick Citera & Matthew Sherry / Cosimo’s) 32 Manhattan clam chowder (Arsenio Flores / Eastchester Fish Gourmet) 36 Yogurt sabroso; Naughty noodles with candied pecans (Ira Lee / Twisted Soul) 41 Cucumber gimlet; Strawberry & basil martini (Scott Levi / Nina) 42 Dancing Damson; Lime cordial; The Last Word; Gin gimlet (Jordan Thomas / The Shelter) 70 Quiche with Swiss chard & ricotta; All-purpose pie dough (Carley Hughes / Ella’s Bellas) 71 Crabcakes (Tom Costello / Thyme) 6
THE VALLEY TABLE
63
JUNE
–
AUGUST
2015
RIVERFRONT 1 HIGH STREET | DOBBS FERRY 914.693.4130 | HARVEST2000.COM
MONTAUK SEAFOOD HUDSON VALLEY FARM 2 TABLE SUNSET VIEWS RAW BAR TIKI BAR
EDITOR’S LETTER
On butterflies, bread and beefsteaks By the calendar it’s still a month until summer arrives, but the thermometer on the back deck says it’s here, right now. For a lot of people, summer means vacation, leisure, rest, basking by the pool and generally avoiding stressful actions or thoughts. Sorry, folks—we can’t let you off quite that easily. Based on what’s in this issue, there’s just too much to do. First, read Keith Stewart’s article on monarchs, and you’ll no doubt find yourself sitting by some wildflowers watching the butterflies. That will, of course, cause you to put away the bottle of Roundup you bought to spray the weeds with and, as Keith suggests, plant some weeds instead—milkweed in particular. Spurred by this act of environmental anarchy, you’ll naturally want to expand your reach into the larger global sphere, or at least as far as Poughkeepsie’s Twisted Soul café, where global flavors are the special of the day, every day. After a good meal, your creative juices will really be flowing, so why not dedicate a few hours to trying out a new recipe or two? (There are 17 in this issue.) Maybe a gluten-free quiche interests you, or some homemade ketchup for your next grilled burger, or perhaps a pot of Manhattan clam chowder with fresh ingredients from the garden and the sea. Once you’ve done that, there’s a couple dozen farmers’ markets, county fairs and summer festivals to visit. Maybe these are the lazy, hazy days of summer; on the other hand, you may find there just aren’t enough hours in the day. Oh, the great tomato debate (or debacle, depending on your point of view) concludes with this issue. If you’re new to these pages, here’s a little deep background: As a youngster, I was warned by a doctor that I was prone to health maladies that would be exacerbated by eating nightshades—eggplants, potatoes, tomatoes. I took the warning to heart. Eggplants were easy to nix (my will was bolstered by my mother’s admonition, ”Never eat anything purple,” or something like that). I still avoid them unless the dish is far more parmigiana than eggplant. Back then, avoiding tomatoes was easy, too—we grew them in the home garden, of course, but, like many nasty habits formed in childhood, my resistance to eating them stuck and I never developed the passion for them that consumes so many people. (But potatoes? As in french fries and ketchup? As in baked potatoes with butter and sour cream? As in mashed potatoes and gravy? Sorry doc, no way.) In any case, I managed to live all these years avoiding perfectly good food, even weathering the storm of ridicule when I publicly outed my non-tomato orientation (a culinary heresy since at least 1649). Fast-forward: I couldn’t very well allow Robin Cherry’s article about heirloom tomatoes to pass over my desk without some serious editorial scrutiny, and I now have to admit there may be something to this tomato thing—all the hoopla, all the anticipation, all the attention and dedication given to these orange/green/yellow/white/red orbs of juice and flesh. Not that I regret avoiding them all these years, but I never imagined that, forced to eat my words, I’d find them so delicious. —JN
On the cover Photo by Francesco Tonelli
THE VALLEY TABLE THE MAGAZINE OF HUDSON VALLEY FARMS, FOOD AND CUISINE THE VALLEY TABLE, INC. 380 MAIN STREET, SUITE 202 BEACON, NY 12508 (845) 765-2600 www.valleytable.com www.hudsonvalleyrestaurantweek.com NUMBER 70 JUNE – AUGUST 2015 PUBLISHER Janet Crawshaw janetc@valleytable.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jerry Novesky jerryn@valleytable.com Assistant Editor Catherine Sweet catherine@valleytable.com Contributing Editor Steven Kolpan Graphic Design Greg Simpson / Ephemera Design Assistant Director of Marketing Laura Lee Holmbo lauralee@valleytable.com Coordinator Emily Verdile Advertising Representative Tom Best Contributors to this issue Flavia Bacarella David Neilsen Timothy Buzinski Margaret Rizzuto Robin Cherry Samantha Seeley Christine Gritmon Colleen Stewart Ethan Harrison Keith Stewart Adam Kurtz Marissa Sertich Velie THE VALLEY TABLE is exclusively devoted to Hudson Valley agriculture, food and cuisine. We support sustainable agricultural practices and efforts to strengthen the links among regional producers, marketers, restaurateurs and consumers. We urge you to patronize businesses that feature Hudson Valley products and to support initiatives that benefit regional agriculture and related efforts. Letters to the editor regarding magazine content are welcome and will be published as space permits. Letters should be mailed to Editor, The Valley Table, 380 Main St., Suite 201, Beacon, NY 12508, or emailed to editor@valleytable.com. To be considered for publication, letters must be signed. THE VALLEY TABLE is published four times a year (March, June, Sept and Dec). Distribution is free at selected sites throughout the Hudson Valley or by subscription. Subscriptions are $20 per year (4 issues). To subscribe, mail a check or money order payable to The Valley Table, 380 Main St., Suite 201, Beacon, NY 12508. We also accept payment electronically using American Express or PayPal; please visit valleytable.com for details or to purchase additional copies or back issues. COPYRIGHT © 2015, THE VALLEY TABLE, INC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, mechanical or electronic, without written permission of the publishers. Advertisements designed by The Valley Table are copyrighted and may not be reproduced in whole or in part without permission. ISSN 1257-8417
8
THE VALLEY TABLE
JUNE
–
AUGUST
2015
Grill it and they will come.
Warren Kitchen & Cutlery. The Hudson Valley’s best selection of fine cutlery, professional cookware, appliances, serving pieces, culinary tools— and the area’s exclusive dealership for Primo US-Made Ceramic Grill and Smokers.
Your Food Here!
• • • •
Unique and rare knives from around the world. Expert sharpening on premises. Cooking Classes are back! Call for info. A serious selection of grilling utensils and accessories.
6934 Route 9 Rhinebeck, NY 12572 Just north of the 9G intersection 845-876-6208 Mon–Sat 9:30–5:30, Sun 11–4:30 Visit us on the web, or order on-line, at www.warrenkitchentools.com
10
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
arom a O
S
T
E
R
I
A
We didn’t invent al fresco dining, we just perfected it.
114 OLD POST Road, WAPPINGERS FALLS
(845) 298-6790
lunch tues–sat • dinner tues–sun
june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
11
Your cocktail connection for one-of-a-kind, hard-to-find, ha hand-crafted spirits
81
F O AM W Si nc N ILY e E 19 D
39 North Plank Rd. Suite 1, Newburgh 845.562.1070 midvalleywine.com
s o ’ e L
Italian Restaurant & Pizzeria
Enjoy Leo’s from Anywhere
Sign up for Leo’s Loyalty Program and start Saving! leo spi z z er ia.c om
12
the valley table
june
–
august
Our family is proud to provide yours with expertly chef-prepared dishes and premium wines.
2015
Or try PANGEA, our new pop-up restaurant where earth’s flavors are reimagined.
Choose Your Pleasure ciarestaurantgroup.com | 845-471-6608 For Pangea: pangeany.com | 845-451-1683 1946 Campus Drive (Rte 9), Hyde Park, NY | On the campus of The Culinary Institute of America
june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
13
OUTDOOR DINING CONTEMPORARY REGIONAL FARE MARKET FRESH SEAFOOD BRICK OVEN PIZZA FRESH PASTA PARTIES UP TO 65 GUESTS OFF-PREMISES CATERING CARRY-OUT SERVICE
Contemporary American dining under the Walkway Over the Hudson. Menu offers seasonal and local foods. Martinis, mixed drinks and fine wines. Patio dining available under the Walkway Over the Hudson. Open Wednesday-Saturday 4-10 Sunday Brunch 11:30-3 Dinner Sunday 4-9 Call or visit our website to make reservations. craverestaurantandlounge.com | 845-452-3501
14
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
GET HEADY
GOOD STUFF
SUMMERTIME ADULT FLOAT
G R AIN MATTER S
MAXIMUM MASH When Hemlock Hill Farm got a call from Captain Lawrence Brewing Company owner Scott Vaccaro offering spent beerbrewing grains to feed the farm’s beef cattle, Cortlandt Manor farmer John De Maria had immediate flashbacks from his childhood: He remembered his father hauling spent grain from a Peekskill distillery to feed the family’s dairy cattle. “We’ve known about this great feed source for generations,” says John’s daughter Laura. Since that 2006 phone call, workers from Hemlock Hill have been visiting the Elmsford brewery five days a week, to pick up almost eight tons of “mashedout” barley, which now makes up about 30 percent of the diet of Hemlock Hill’s 80-head herd of beef. The mash supplements the grass and hay the animals usually eat; any grain that’s not consumed is added to the farm’s compost and eventually worked into soil to grow vegetables. “This is pure, and comes from a source that’s 15 miles down the road,” she says. “We have happy cows.” According to De Maria, the spent grain gives the beef a sweeter flavor and enhances the marbling, and chefs from Manhattan to Fishkill seem to agree. “RiverMarket in Tarrytown does an awesome burger,” she notes. Home cooks can buy the beef (along with poultry, lamb, pork, dairy and seasonal produce) at the farm’s on-site store.
You may spot a surprising “adult” dessert on more menus around the region this summer. A beer float is a grown-up twist on the traditional summer classic—smooth ice cream (the creamier the better) in this case paired with a hearty brew. Stout or porter seem to be the preferred choices, possibly because they often have a milky-sweet flavor from the milk sugar (lactose) used in brewing, and many already have distinct, dessert-like overtones of chocolate or coffee. (With its inherent fruit flavors, cider, too, is a natural fit for a lighter version.) A hard-to-beat combination for a homemade version is local stout and chocolate ice cream. Here’s a sampling of other heady floats we’ve spotted around the Valley: At The Hop (Beacon), where draft selections from the region and around the world rotate frequently, try the stout-of-theday with coffee-toffee ice cream. Mill House Brewing Company (Poughkeepsie) serves its signature Velvet Panda stout with vanilla ice cream and molasses sugar cookies. At Prohibition River (Nyack) it’s Young’s Double Chocolate Stout and ice cream while The Tapp (Tarrytown) prefers a stout-gelato float. Rock and Rye Tavern (New Paltz) keeps it local with Butternuts Moo Thunder Stout and Jane’s vanilla ice cream. It’s summertime and the floating is easy.
Hemlock Hill Farm 500 Croton Ave, Cortlandt Manor (914) 737-2810; hemlockhillfarm.com
june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
15
BIR TH D AY B ASH
HAPPINESS TURNS 30 On Saturday, July 18, the crowd-pleasing ice cream makers at Jane’s Ice Cream, in Kingston, will celebrate their thirtieth anniversary by serving a commemorative “Birthday Bash” flavor at the Kingston Farmers’ Market Kid Day. Known for producing a wide variety of flavors in small batches using fresh Hudson Valley ingredients and hormone-free dairy, Jane’s ice cream is served at 107 locations in New York, Connecticut, New Jersey and western Massachusetts. From its most popular flavor, Cappuccino Kahlua Calypso, to its new Currants and Cream (featuring Hudson Valley currants), Jane’s has even drawn celebrity attention: Actress/singer Bette Midler tweeted “Best so far!” after tasting Jane’s Killer Chocolate. Founders Jane Keller, Amy Keller and Bob Giudubaldi have a simple formula for success. “We’re successful because we are passionate about ingredients,” Amy stresses. “I make flavors with ingredients I love.”
Chef Casey Belton, of Rock & Rye Tavern in New Paltz, has been scooping Jane’s products since Rock & Rye opened four years ago: straight up, in floats (including their stout float) and on top of their constantly changing desserts. Amy Keller attributes the company’s 30 years of success to doing things the old-fashioned way. “We don’t mass produce—we manage our business hands-on, always making the freshest product,” she says. “We are incredibly service-oriented, maintaining a constant level of quality service, quality ingredients and quality product.” —Colleen Stewart Jane’s Ice Cream 307 Wall St, Kingston (845) 338-1801; janesicecream.com
16
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
DUCKET S
NEW EGGS IN TOWN Once a specialty item destined for high-end desserts, duck eggs have gone mainstream. Duck egg sales have spiked recently and they’re appearing more frequently on menus throughout the Hudson Valley. According to the USDA National Nutrient Database, duck eggs are not only larger than average chicken eggs, they’re slightly darker in color and have a thicker shell, which gives them a longer shelf life. When boiled, duck egg white turns blue-tinted and the yolk turns a deep red-orange. This hints at their slightly higher nutritional content: Compared with a jumbo chicken egg weighing in at 63 grams, a duck egg, at 70 grams, has more protein, calcium, potassium, phosphorus, and vitamins A, B6 and B12 per egg (though they tend to be slightly higher in cholesterol and fat). Why the surge in popularity? Simply put, duck eggs make a fluffier product—when added to flour-based recipes, the higher albumen (a protein found in the egg whites) content in duck eggs creates an airy lift in the end product. Also, the larger, richer yolks make them great in yolk-based recipes, like chef Nathan Snow’s butterscotch pot de crème, a featured dessert at The Huguenot, in New Paltz. “Duck eggs are bigger, richer—you get more bang for your buck in terms of size and nutrients,” Snow says. “Even an omelet made with a duck egg becomes a richer, heartier meal.” Snow also serves a deep-fried poached duck egg over grilled asparagus topped with chorizo country gravy on his spring/summer menus— when the ducks at his partner farm, Karl Family Farms, are laying. Duck eggs are in season, and you’ll likely spot more of them than ever before at local farms, farmers’ markets and restaurants. At the Beacon Pantry, you’ll find duck eggs from Arrowood Farms in Accord for $8 per halfdozen (a dozen chicken eggs sells for $5). So, why did the chicken cross the road? To have duck eggs for breakfast, of course. —Colleen Stewart
E VE NT S STRAWBERRY FESTIVAL RIVERFRONT PARK, BEACON June 14 Experience the sweet taste of fresh strawberry shortcake made with local berries, real whipped cream and warm biscuits baked right on the banks of the Hudson. Environmental displays, kids’ activities, and craft and food vendors. beaconsloopclub.org SUMMER SOLSTICE STORM KING ART CENTER, NEW WINDSOR June 20 Celebrate summer with a cocktail reception and farm-to-table dinner designed by Peter Hoffman, of Back Forty West in Manhattan, and Shelley Boris, of Garrison’s Fresh Company. Delight in a private tour of the grounds and exhibits. stormking.org BEER, BOURBON & BACON FEST DUTCHESS COUNTY FAIRGROUNDS, RHINEBECK June 20 Sample the finest beers and bourbons the Hudson Valley has to offer, presented by the Hudson Valley Craft Brew Fest. Local vendors will have bacon-themed food for sale. $45. beerbourbonbacon.com CLEARWATER’S GREAT HUDSON RIVER REVIVAL CROTON POINT PARK, CROTON-ON-HUDSON June 20 & 21 An eclectic mix of music, dance and storytelling is set to unfold on seven sustainably powered stages. Visit the Handcrafters’ Village, Green Living Expo, Working Waterfront (with small boat exhibits and rides) and the Artisanal Food and Farm Market. $75 each day, $110 weekend pass. clearwaterfestival.org POWERHOUSE THEATER/NEW YORK STAGE & FILM SEASON VASSAR COLLEGE, POUGHKEEPSIE June 26-August 2 The college’s season includes more than 20 varied performances of new plays, musicals, reading festivals and works in progress. Works on the main stage this season include The Unbuilt City by Keith Bunin and The Light Years by Hannah Bos and Paul Thureen. powerhouse.vassar.edu
SOUR SECRET
PRIZED PICKLE POTION Stephen Leibowitz, CPM (Chief Pickle Maven) of United Pickle Products, knows his history. “In 1897, my grandfather Max came from Europe and his first job on the Lower East Side was working in a grocery store,” he relates. “He noticed that every day, people would come in and buy cheese, meat and pickles right out of the barrel. At the end of the day the barrel was empty. He came up with an idea to open up the first pickle stand in the United States at 35 Essex Street.” When Max Leibowitz joined Isidor “Izzy” Guss to open Guss’ Pickles in 1920, a number of pushcarts and pickle stands were hawking pickles on Essex Street (so many, in fact, that the area became known as Pickle Alley). Even so, Guss’ Pickles always stood out as the best, and Guss’ Pickles became a landmark, if not a legend. The exact recipe of herbs and spices used to craft Guss’ pickles has been secret for almost a century—though Leibowitz hints at a couple of key ingredients. For starters, “We have a special machine that just does garlic,” he says. “Every hour on the hour we stop [production] and take cloves of garlic, peel them, put them in the machine. That goes in each barrel and each bottle.” But the upstate connection is the clincher. “The water system that brings us the filtered water here is from Westchester County,” Leibowitz says. “That’s one of our secrets. I could pickle cucumbers right here and you would taste them a few days later and say they’re delicious. I could use the exact same cucumbers from the same farmer using Florida water, and you would spit it out.” Once limited to the Lower East Side, Guss’ kosher delights can be purchased online and in more than 1,500 independent grocery stores and major grocery chains across the country, including Whole Foods. Minimum online order is for a gallon; prices for sour, half-sour, sour tomato or sauerkraut pickles range from $56 to $72, including two-day shipping. —David Neilsen Guss’ Pickles (718) 933-6060; gusspickle.com
june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
17
N O T -SO-GOOD ST UFF
BLIGHT FIGHT A couple of the finer things in life are under attack. Environmental calamities in Central America and Italy are devastating their coffee and olive industries, respectively, resulting in drastic drops in production there and higher prices and increased scarcity here. A three-year infestation of the coffee rust fungus (Hemileia vastatrix) is decimating the Central American Arabica coffee bean crop (which accounts for up to 80 percent of the world’s production), causing an estimated $1 billion damages in one year alone. Rain and heavy winds at the end of 2014 helped spread the fungus, and pressure to increase production of high-end Arabica beans caused many coffee growers to thin out overhead canopies, which allowed more sunlight to stream down. In a good example of how complex the ecosystem of a coffee farm can be, the sunlight killed the white halo fungus (Lecanicillium lecanii), one of nature’s best defenses against coffee rust. Officials in Guatemala, Honduras and Costa Rica have declared national emergencies because of the crop damage; in El Salvador, forecasted production has been cut 33 percent. Production in Guatemala may be down as much as 40 percent. Marnie and Don MacClean, owners of Thompson-Finch Farm in Ancram, own a coffee plantation in Puerto Rico and have seen the damage. “It’s pretty much all over the island—we have a friend down there who lost all of his coffee,” says Marnie, whose organic farm on the island has thus far been spared. “A lot of the larger growers have actually cut [all] their coffee down and replanted what they hope are resistant varieties.” Thus far, coffee prices have not severely spiked because coffee companies have enough backup inventory or
18
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
are substituting other beans in their blends. Eventually, however, prices could reach “extraordinary” highs or supplies could be cut completely, according to the Specialty Coffee Association of America. In Italy, the fight is against Xylella fastidiosa, a bacterial infection ravaging the country’s olive trees. “My mother has an olive farm 45 kilometers northwest of Rome,” says chef Francesco Buitoni, of Mercato Osteria & Enoteca in Red Hook. “Usually I get shipments twice a year—this year there’s a lot less. I probably have only 30 percent of what I had the year before.” The blight originated in southern Italy, but has begun to spread. Some experts fear it will eventually sweep past the Italian border into central Europe, and the European Union has urged Italian olive growers to cut down any infected trees. Italian olive oil production is expected to drop by a third this year, and producers and distributors are looking for other ways to fulfill the demand. “Companies are buying olive oil from Morocco and Tunisia and other countries and blending it and calling it ‘Italian,’ but it’s not,” Buitoni warns. “Look at the label—it may say Italian extra-virgin, but then you read the fine print on the bottle, it’ll say ‘olives from Morocco, Tunisia, Spain.’“ Complicating matters is a drought in Spain, the world’s largest producer of olive oil. According to the Olive Oil Council, demand for olive oil has risen 60 percent over the last 20 years, but the current environmental events will force production down 30 to 40 percent. Something’s got to give, Buitoni says. “I’ll only use [Italian olive oil] for salad dressing or certain dishes—I have to make it last longer,” he notes. “I can’t use it as freely as I used to.” —David Neilsen
E VE NT S BEACON RIVERFEST RIVERFRONT PARK, BEACON June 28 Outdoor rock and world music festival, featuring three music tents and fabulous local food vendors including Beacon Pantry, Drink More Good, Flammkuchen, Gracie’s Food Truck and more. The Valley Table is proud to be a sponsor of this year’s event. $25. beaconriverfest.org WINE & BEER FEST BROTHERHOOD WINERY, WASHINGTONVILLE July 11 America’s oldest winery joins Yuengling, America’s oldest brewery, for a day of wine, beer, food and entertainment. $48. brotherhood-winery.com 20TH ANNUAL BOUNTY OF THE HUDSON BENMARL WINERY, MARLBORO July 25 & 26 This two-day wine and food festival is the largest gathering of Hudson Valley wineries. Taste a variety of local wines and cheeses, baked goods and produce while enjoying live music. shawangunkwinetrail.com 15TH ANNUAL BLUEBERRY FESTIVAL OLD AUSTERLITZ, AUSTERLITZ July 26 Visit the Austerlitz Historical Society’s grounds for a day of 19th-century craft demonstrations and wares, antiques, food, live music and blueberry-themed treats, and a classic blueberry pancake breakfast. oldausterlitz.org HUDSON VALLEY RIBFEST ULSTER COUNTY FAIRGROUNDS, NEW PALTZ August 14-16 Don’t miss this mouthwatering event, as 60 local barbecue teams compete in the 11th annual New York State Championship. Each day will include great food and musical entertainment for the whole family. hudsonvalleyribfest.org
UPDATES: valleytable.com
EDGY OENEOLOGY
KUDOS To Michael Migliore, of Whitecliff Vineyard in Gardiner, who was honored this spring by the New York State Wine & Grape Foundation as its Grape Grower of the Year, the first time in the organization’s 25-year history that a Hudson Valley figure has been so honored. The group recognized Whitecliff as “a model of sustainability,” and cited Migliore’s “commitment to the regional industry.” Migliore has championed the Hudson Valley region for years, encouraging fellow growers to plant more varieties, and continues to work with Cornell Cooperative Extension to develop the hardiest vines possible, while keeping quality high. “We’re working on the edge of what’s possible,” Migliore told The Valley Table in 2014. “This is not cool-climate viticulture, this is cold-climate viticulture.” Whitecliff’s Gamay Noir 2012 recently earned 90 points from Wine Enthusiast magazine, and its Riesling has won top honors over more than 1,000 entries from around the world at the San Francisco International Wine Competition. Whitecliff Vineyard and Winery 331 McKinstry Rd, Gardiner (845) 255-4613; whitecliffwine.com
ST EP RIGHT UP
ALL’S FAIR Blinking lights, Tilt-A-Whirl shrieks, strange sounds from the agricultural buildings, and that seasonal delicacy— powdered sugar on fried dough. What does it all mean? It’s county fair season!
Orange County Fair Middletown, July 22-August 2 orangecountyfair.com Greene County Youth Fair Cairo, July 23–26 thegreenecountyyouthfair.com Putnam County Fair Carmel, July 24–26 putnam.cce.cornell.edu/4-h-youth/ putnam-county-4-h-fair Ulster County Fair New Paltz, July 28-August 2 ulstercountyfair.com Schoharie County Sunshine Fair Cobleskill, August 1-8 sunshinefair.org Dutchess County Fair Rhinebeck, August 25-30 dutchessfair.com Columbia County Fair Chatham, September 2-7 columbiafair.com
june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
19
OPENINGS
Lucoli
7476 S Broadway, Red Hook (845) 758-5600
Drink More Good 383 Main St, Beacon
lucolipizza.com
more-good.myshopify.com
Nearly 6,000 miles from the farm of his childhood, chef Nobile Attie is making food that recalls not only the Syrian countryside, but also his later home, Italy. Flavors from around the Mediterranean appear on the menu at Lucoli, which opened last year in Red Hook. The 20-seat restaurant offers two sizes of pizzas as well as “lucoli,” folded pies with about 20 suggested combinations of fillings: The Luganega has homemade sausage, ricotta and spinach, while in the Mulaniana, Attie embraces baba ghannouj, capers and artichoke hearts. Customers can select from about two dozen toppings to customize their pizzas or lucoli. The restaurant has no stove; everything is cooked at 1055°F on the rotating base of the wood- and gas-powered brick oven. That includes the house-made mozzarella—Attie buys the curds, then seasons them with herbs, cooking the cheese until he’s satisfied with the flavor. Between batches of mozzarella, roasting pans of tomatoes fill a secondary oven. The colorful orbs come from Stewardship Farms in Stuyvesant (Columbia County), whose farmers are growing produce earmarked for Lucoli—the restaurant even has its own plot at the organic farm. Lucoli’s fare is centered around “primary ingredients,” using organic, nonGMO products as much as possible. Among items made in-house: ricotta and mozzarella cheeses, dough (a gluten-free option is available), and the sauce. For the red lentil soup, inspired by his Syrian mother’s version, Attie uses certified organic lentils. However, he believes relationships with farmers are more important than particular certifications. “Small farmers believe in what I’m talking about, and these are the ones to support,” he says. “I’d rather my food costs be higher and give that extra to a local farmer.” After leaving Italy for the U.S. in 1981, Attie cooked his way around the country, working with Wolfgang Puck in Beverly Hills for a time. He ran several Hudson Valley restaurants acclaimed for their brick-oven pizzas, including La Parmigiana locations in Rhinebeck and Kingston. (Attie has built hundreds of brick ovens, for private clients and big-name restaurants alike.) Of Lucoli, “I want every customer to know they’re eating real food,” Attie says. “And if it’s tasty, it’s naturally tasty, cooked the Old World way.” Mon–Thu 3pm–9pm; Fri–Sun noon–9pm
20
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
Emphasizing “global impact through local success,” Jason Schuler’s company, Drink More Good, has been selling hand-crafted soda syrups, tea and tisane concentrates and bitters since 2012. With the opening of a storefront in Beacon, Schuler hopes the space will become a community resource, a place for creative pursuits. “We encourage people to come in, enjoy free Wi-Fi, bring their own food, all with no pressure to purchase. We just want people in here being creative,” says Schuler. Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Tue 10am-3pm
The Commune Saloon 297 Tinker St, Woodstock (845) 679-5555 thecommunesaloon.com
Nicolas Geeraerts collaborated with chef Michael Hamilton to open this Woodstock eatery in mid-February. The Commune Saloon offers New American small-plate cuisine, with a focus on farm-to-table principles. Beyond the dining room, an 85-seat outdoor area features a large firepit. Geeraerts is excited to introduce Commune Saloon’s concept to the area. “We want customers to come in, enjoy some craft beer, a small plate and not leave feeling stuffed. Mon–Thu 5pm–11pm; Fri & Sat 5pm–midnight; Sun 5pm-10pm; lunch daily at noon beginning this summer
photos this page : susan lyne / lucoli
Blu Pointe
Shindig 1 Tinker St, Woodstock (845) 684-7091 woodstockshindig.com
Lari Lang (daughter of Woodstock creator Michael Lang) and friends bring a cozy mountain shindig to Woodstock, offering “thoughtful comfort food” like mac and cheese, pickled veggies, Buffalo chicken and quinoa and beets—all to be enjoyed with a craft beer, cider or local wine. Lang says the aim is “to keep everything craftsman, not hipster, but with a delightfully surprising upscale cuisine using organic and local ingredients.” Open since December, Shindig offers breakfast, lunch and dinner. Mon–Fri (except Tue) 11am–9pm; Sat & Sun 10am–9pm
Drink More Good
The Commune Saloon
Scalia & Co. Craft Kitchen & Bar 785 Shoprite Plaza St. Rt. 17M Suite 2, Monroe (845) 395-0906
North River Hops and Brewing 1571 Rt 9, Wappingers Falls (845) 297-2190
Blu Pointe 120 Front St, Newburgh (845) 568-0100
Porco Cafe Fresh 138 South Ave, Poughkeepsie (845) 337-3487
blu-pointe.com
porcocafefresh.com
northriverbrews.com
scaliaandco.com
In case you missed it, there’s a new Old World brewery tucked behind Bad Ass Coffee in Wappingers Falls. The 1,000-squarefoot tasting bar, retail space and brewery is styled as a modernized nineteenth-century general store, selling growlers and kegs of their craft brews, as well as other locally sourced products. North River offers between three and seven rotating beers on tap alongside their three flagship brews, Paddle Steamer Pale Ale, Tarwe (Witte/Hefeweizen) and BLM Session Amber Ale. Mon, Thu, Fri 3pm–9pm; Sat 11am–8pm; Sun noon–6pm
It takes some effort to supplant the memory of Newburgh waterfront stalwart Torches, but Blu Pointe, open since April, has nearly done just that. Gone is the famed fish tank, replaced with rows of floor-to-ceiling wine racks. A total renovation showcases views of the Hudson. The dining rooms and a craft cocktail lounge, complemented by a seasonal outdoor bar, offer an eclectic wine list, local craft beers and spirits. With chef Hektor Dajo helming the kitchen, the focus here is fresh seafood, prime beef and a raw bar station—which naturally includes the famed oysters of the same name. Mon–Thu 11:30am–10pm; Fri & Sat 11:30am–11pm; brunch Sun 11am–2pm
Within walking distance of Vassar Brothers Medical Center, a new chic bistro by Carlo Porco offers New American dishes to enjoy in the familyfriendly dining room or for take-out/delivered for an easy meal at home. Mon–Sat 11am–9pm
Located in the heart of Monroe, Scalia & Co. Craft Kitchen & Bar offers a casual Italian menu from chef Mark Glielmi’s open kitchen, featuring homemade burrata and mozzarella cheeses, wood-fired pizza and cannoli, as well as a raw bar with fresh regional oysters, shrimp and clams. Owners Vito, Peter and Marco Scalia opened the two-level, 110-seat restaurant in December. The extensive bar menu features signature and classic cocktails derived from fresh fruits and herbs, at least nine local craft beers and eight “guaranteed-fresh” wines by the glass, carafe or quartino. Mon–Sat 11am–11pm; Sun 3pm–9pm
photos l - r : blu pointe , catherine sweet , the commune saloon
june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
21
Your eating adventure starts here.
Eat local. Drink local. Love what’s on your Table. Subscribe
ValleyTable.com
Artful cooking / Event planning
CLOCK TOWER GRILL • Kitchen & Bar American Farm-to-Table • 13 Craft Beers on Draft
845.582.0574 512 Clock Tower Drive, Brewster, New York 10509 Check website for upcoming events
www.clocktowergrill.com
Seasonal menus, skillfully prepared and delicious. Garrison, NY / 845-424-8204 / freshcompany.net
june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
23
2 E AST M A I N ST R E E T, B E ACO N N Y 1 2 5 0 8
ESCAPE
ting Celebra 10 years ss in busine
Whether you’re looking for a luxury getaway or small-town retreat, fine dining or familiar comfort food, a big night out or just a nice night off, you’ll find it here at The Roundhouse. H OT E L | R E STAU R A N T | E V E N TS
8 4 5 76 5 8 3 69 | R O U N D H O U S E B E ACO N .CO M
Open for Dinner Daily Lunch Friday & Saturday Sunday Brunch
24
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
SEE US AT SS E THE DUTCHY COUNT DS! FAIRGROUN
EATING BY THE SEASON
tomatoes T
he lore, legends and legitimacy surrounding the tomato are about as varied as the environments in which it is found. Used in Central American cooking since at least 500BC, it was considered toxic by Europeans until well into the sixteenth century; some American references still labeled it poisonous into the nineteenth century. Its Latin name translates as wolf apple (a reference to its poisonous qualities), but the French called it the love apple or golden apple (one a reference to its effect as an aphrodisiac, the other to its color). The tomato is the official state vegetable of New Jersey, but it’s the official state fruit of Ohio and Tennessee. In Arkansas, it’s both the official state vegetable and the official state fruit.
by robin cherry photo : ethan harrison
june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
25
Vegetable or fruit? Poison or aphrodisiac? Red or yellow? The first juicy, ripe tomato picked from the garden or arrived at the farmers’ market defines summer. Let’s start at the beginning. The nightshade family of plants (the Solanaceae) encompasses more than 2,700 species, many of which produce highly potent alkaloids, including the strongest anticholinergics on the planet. (The effects of these compounds on the central nervous system can range from relaxation or sedation to hallucinations to death.) In spite of, or perhaps because of this, the nightshade family includes a number of economically important plants used as food, as sources of narcotics, or as medicines. Potatoes, eggplants, chile peppers and tobacco are nightshades. So is Solanum lycopersicum, the tomato. The tomato (today the most widely eaten fruit in the world) originated in the Andes Mountains of South America. It’s generally accepted that the Aztecs domesticated the tomatl plant and that Spanish conqueror Hernán Cortés probably introduced it to Europe after he captured the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan in 1519 and found the plants growing in the gardens there. The Spanish also introduced tomatoes to their Caribbean colonies and to the Philippines, from where they spread throughout Asia.” Tomatoes adapted well to the mild Mediterranean climate but initially were grown strictly as ornamentals—prized for their beauty but feared for their toxicity. (All parts of the tomato except the fruit are, in fact, toxic.) They were first grown in England in 1554 (planted by Patrick Bellow, of Castletown), but John Gerard, another early cultivator and author of a well-known herbal guide, perpetuated the belief toma-
26
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
toes were poisonous by declaring them “of ranke and stinking savour” that “yeeld very little nourishment to the body.” Tomatoes were widely consumed in Europe by the 1700s, but by then they had garnered the unfortunate label poison apple in England—the tomato’s acidic juice leached lead from the pewter plates used by the upper class, resulting in sometimes-fatal lead poisoning. (Alas, no such malady afflicted the peasants—they dined on wooden plates—though they shied away from tomatoes because they weren’t as filling as other options.) In Italy, the popularity of tomatoes was capped in 1889 (legend has it), when King Umberto I and Queen Margherita, visiting Naples, ordered pizzas from the city’s Pizzeria Brandi (originally Da Pietro pizzeria, founded in 1760) and were served one topped with tomatoes, mozzarella and basil, mimicking the colors of the Italian flag. There’s no record of whether this first pizza Margherita was eat-in or takeout. Modern tomatoes are most commonly red, but also may be green, white, yellow, pink, purple—even black. There are two kinds of tomatoes: hybrids and heirlooms. Breeders create hybrids by intentionally cross-pollinating two different varieties to produce a plant that contains the best or most desirable characteristics of each—large size, shape, yield, flavor, disease resistance, or, as in the case of mass-market tomatoes, longer shelf life. (“Hybridization” mimics a natural process; it’s not “genetic modification” in the industrial agriculture sense.) Heirloom varieties, on the other hand, come from a single source that may have adapted itself over many generations to a specific location, climate or
photos by margaret rizzuto
environment, and heirloom tomatoes cover the spectrum from interesting and beautiful to eccentric and ugly. They are “open-pollinated” (pollinated by natural mechanisms like birds, insects or wind) and though they may be erratic in terms of seasonality, size and yield, because the seeds represent the genetics of only a single variety, they “breed true.” For this reason, only heirlooms can be used for seed saving. (Hybrids do not breed true because there’s no way to assure the combination of genes that produced the parent plant will be duplicated exactly in the second generation—there’s no telling what kind of fruit, if any, will be produced.) Hybrids are more predictable in harvest timing, appearance and size, but most lack the intensity and variety of flavors available with heirlooms. The doyenne of the heirloom tomato, Amy Goldman, lives in Rhinebeck, where she grows 500 tomato plants of 250 varieties. She’s the author of the definitive work on the subject, The Heirloom Tomato: From Garden to Table—Recipes, Portraits, and History of the World’s Most Beautiful Fruit (Bloomsbury, 2008; $37.50, hardcover), with photographs by Victor Schrager. The book moves easily through the science, selection, cultivation and preparation of heirloom tomatoes without a hint of pretention—“This tomato tastes so good, you’ll plotz,” is her description of Burpee’s Gold, for example. Goldman has, of course, favorite tomatoes, as well as varieties she’d recommend for Hudson Valley growers. Favorite cherry tomatoes include her own Green Doctor (discovered in her garden in 2002 and available from Seed Savers Exchange), and the cascading, “yolk-yellow” Blondköpfchen,
which she says is “incomparable” for both flower arrangements and yellow salsa. Her favorite beefsteaks include the large, luscious Gold Medal (“well-reviewed by tomato cognoscenti”); the rich, fullflavored Yellow Brandywine (“on everyone’s list of favorites”); huge and juicy Green Giant (“the best-tasting green-whenripe beefsteak”); the “divinely sweet,” aptly named Great White (“the greatest” of the white tomatoes). And there’s Radiator Charlie’s Mortgage Lifter—big, thick, meaty, juicy fruits that can weigh more than three pounds, best when cut into thick slabs and sprinkled with sea salt. (”Mortgage lifter” is a generic name for big, heirloom tomatoes whose sale is so profitable the seller could pay off a mortgage. Radiator Charlie’s Mortgage Lifter is named for Charlie Byles, owner in the 1940s of a truck repair shop at the base of a mountain. Trucks attempting to climb the steep grade overheated and rolled right back down to the shop for radiator repairs. Byles sold his tomato plants to them for $1 each and was able to pay off his $6,000 mortgage in six years.) As for growing tips, “The greatest gift you can offer your plants is a plot situated in full sun,” Goldman stresses. She believes the biggest mistake gardeners make is overcrowding—wide spacing increases air circulation and productivity and reduces the likelihood of disease. (Her tomatoes are planted five feet apart in rows seven feet apart.) She mulches (preferring black plastic and brown ground cloth), and is vigilant about pruning. She stakes and cages her plants rather then letting them sprawl over the ground. If space is not an issue and you only want to grow one
june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
27
kind of tomato, Goldman recommends Sara’s Galapagos, a sweet, currant-type tomato with a prolific growth habit, featuring “lots of flavor in a little package.” If you don’t, or can’t, grow your own tomatoes, many Hudson Valley farms sell heirloom varieties directly on the farm or at local farmers’ markets. Good prospects include Taliaferro Farms in New Paltz, Montgomery Orchards in Red Hook, Four Wind Farms in Gardiner, and Hepworth Farms in Milton. The first rule of storing tomatoes is to keep them out of the refrigerator—they’ll quickly become mushy and flavorless. Leave them unwashed, at room temperature and out of direct sunlight. Unripe tomatoes can be kept in a paper bag until ripened; they’re also easily preserved by canning or sun-drying. Raw tomatoes are high in vitamin C and are blessed with lycopene, a natural antioxidant that some studies suggest may help prevent cancer and heart disease. Cooking tomatoes actually increases lycopene content, though raw tomatoes are higher in vitamin C. (To cover your bases, eat tomatoes both ways.) Say tomato (or, if you must, tomahto) and Italian cuisine naturally comes to mind—raw in salads and as a topping for bruschetta or cooked into sauces for pastas, pizza or meatballs. They’re also a primary ingredient in Mexican salsa, Indian chutneys, Spanish gazpacho and, of course, in Ronald Reagan’s “All-America vegetable”—ketchup. Goldman’s favorite paste tomatoes include Speckled Roman (a chance cross of two plum tomatoes from the garden of vegetable collector extraordinaire John Swenson); Super Italian Paste (perfect for “sweet-as-sugar and savory tomato sauce”); Jersey Devil (a super-big sauce tomato); Amish Paste (selected for Slow Food’s Ark of Taste, a list of foods facing extinction); Goldman’s Italian American (named for Goldman’s father’s Brooklyn grocery store); San Marzano (the classic Italian canning tomato); and Orange Banana (“fruity and rich when oven-roasted, puréed or made into an ambrosial sauce.”) Of course, you’ll need something to help wash all this down. Tomato juice is a healthy beverage straight-up; spiked with vodka and spices, it makes a brunch-friendly Bloody Mary cocktail. Goldman offers a recipe for a Thai tomato cocktail that includes lemongrass, Thai hot chile, Thai basil, fresh ginger and vodka—she promises the libation “will transport you and your guests to Thailand—or to some other altered state.” 4
28
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
don’t make it a federal case Under the Tariff Act of 1883, vegetables imported to the U.S. were subject to a 10 percent import tax, though fruit was not. So, when John Nix’s imported West Indian tomatoes were taxed, he sued customs official Edward Hedden, insisting his tomatoes were, in fact, fruit and the tariff didn’t apply. The U.S. Supreme Court decided that, science be damned, the tomato is a vegetable. The Court determined that although “botanically speaking, tomatoes are the fruit of the vine,” the tomato is a vegetable because it’s “usually served at dinner . . . and not, like fruits generally, as dessert.” Illustrating just how far science has advanced in federal corridor, the USDA in 1981 declared ketchup a vegetable in order to justify federal budget cuts to school lunch programs. In 2005, the New Jersey legislature cited the nineteenth-century Nix v. Hedden decision as the basis for a bill designating the tomato its official state vegetable. Botanists label the seed-bearing part of a plant a fruit; that’s what a tomato is, as are cucumbers, butternut squash and pea pods. Vegetables, on the other hand, comprise any other edible (nonfruit) part of a plant (leaves, roots, stems, tubers, bulbs and flowers). Amy Goldman offers a compromise definition: “I call the tomato a ‘fruit/vegetable’—the fruit of a herbaceous plant—while ‘fruit’ is the fruit of a tree.” Simple enough, though still likely to confuse members of Congress, presidents and Supreme Court judges. —RC photo : ethan harrison
“I like my Thai tomato cocktails to resemble saffron, or else the peel of the ripe mandarin orange,” writes heirloomvegetable advocate Amy Goldman in The Heirloom Tomato. Caro Rich, Aunt Gertie’s Gold, or the tie-dyed Gold Medal heirloom varieties would work nicely here, but other yellow or orange tomatoes will do.
THAI TOMATO COCKTAIL AMY GOLDMAN, THE HEIRLOOM TOMATO
SPICY TOMATO KETCHUP ADAPTED FROM EARLY 20TH-CENTURY RECIPES Ingredients 12 pounds tomatoes, cored and roughly chopped 1 yellow onion, chopped 2 cups white vinegar 1 cup sugar or molasses 2 tablespoons salt 1 tablespoon whole cloves 2 teaspoons mustard seed 1 teaspoon black pepper 1 teaspoon mace (ground nutmeg may be substituted) 1 stick cinnamon, broken ½ teaspoon celery seed ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper makes about 8 pints Method 1. Set a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add tomatoes and onion and cook until soft. Let cool slightly. 2. Set a fine-mesh sieve over a large bowl. Working in batches if necessary, carefully pass the tomato-onion mixture through the sieve. Discard peels, seeds and other larger solids. 2. Return the purée to the pot. Add the vinegar and sugar or molasses. Stir to combine. Cook until reduced by half, stirring occasionally. 3. Place spices in a cloth bag or a sachet of cheesecloth tied with string, and add to purée. 4. Continue cooking, uncovered, until it reaches desired consistency. Remove the bag of spices. Ladle ketchup into hot, sterilized jars, and follow a water-bath process to seal.
Ingredients 4 pounds yellow or orange tomatoes, coarsely chopped 1 tablespoon salt 2 teaspoons sugar 4 strips lime zest, 2 to 3 inches each 3 tablespoons finely chopped lemongrass (discard the tough outer layers before chopping) 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 2 teaspoons fish sauce 2 tablespoons peeled and finely grated ginger ½ hot Thai chile 1 tablespoon coarsely chopped Thai basil 1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed freshly ground black pepper, to taste vodka, to taste serves 8
This not-too-sweet version of the allAmerican condiment is adapted from a family recipe hand-written in a 1902 cookbook and from the first edition of The Original New York Times Cookbook. An heirloom ketchup for heirloom tomatoes, this is an ideal way to use ripe beefsteaks that are everywhere as summer wanes, but other varieties may be used, as well.
Method 1. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the tomatoes, salt and sugar. Mix until the tomatoes are crushed. Transfer the mix to a nonreactive bowl and let sit for 2 hours for maximum juice extraction. 2. In the meantime, blanch the lime zest in boiling water until tender, approximately 5 minutes. In a blender, mix the zest and lemongrass with the lime juice, fish sauce, ginger, chile, basil and garlic and purée until smooth. Season with black pepper, then add to the tomatoes. 3. Pass the tomato mixture through a sieve. Taste, and adjust the seasonings if necessary. Pour into a pitcher, then refrigerate until ready to serve. 4. Serve over ice in tall chilled highball glasses. Add vodka, if desired. Garnish each glass with a stalk of lemongrass. Amy Goldman The Heirloom Tomato
june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
29
Tomatoes appear throughout chef Robert Horton’s menu at An American Bistro in Tuckahoe. At the market he shops for the richest, ripest plum tomatoes. “You have to look at every tomato in every box to get the right ones,” Horton says. Soft, oven-dried tomatoes are unctuous and intense with greens and fresh mozzarella. A sharply tangy tomato compote (with olives and capers) is a perfect accompaniment to grilled shrimp and angel hair pasta.
TOMATO-OLIVE-CAPER COMPOTE ROBERT HORTON, AN AMERICAN BISTRO Ingredients 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon chopped garlic 2 cups chopped plum tomatoes ¼ cup dry white wine 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1 tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon small capers or chopped large capers 1 tablespoon lemon zest ¼ cup chopped cured Moroccan olives salt and white pepper, to taste Method 1. Add the olive oil to a medium pan over medium heat, and add the garlic. Sauté until the garlic is golden. 2. Add chopped tomatoes and sauté for 1 minute. 3. Add white wine, and cook for 2 minutes, then add tomato paste and sugar. 4. When the mixture is almost dry, When almost dry, add capers, lemon zest and olives. Continue to cook for another minute. 5. Season with salt and white pepper. Serve at room temperature or cool. An American Bistro 296 Columbus Ave, Tuckahoe (914) 793-0807
OVEN-DRIED TOMATOES ROBERT HORTON, AN AMERICAN BISTRO Ingredients 12 plum tomatoes salt extra-virgin olive oil fresh oregano, chopped Method 1. Cut tomatoes lengthwise and season with salt. Place them on a sheet pan lined with parchment paper. 2. Let the tomatoes sit for 1 hour. 3. Preheat the oven to 225°F. 4. Place the pan with tomatoes in the oven, and dry them for 4 hours. 5. Drizzle with olive oil and oregano. An American Bistro 296 Columbus Ave, Tuckahoe (914) 793-0807
30
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
photos this page : margaret rizzuto
TOMATO SAUCE TWO WAYS NICK CITERA & MATTHEW SHERRY, COSIMO’S POMODORO SAUCE
Ingredients 2 pounds plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, blanched and peeled (canned may be used in a pinch) ½ cup water ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 8 garlic cloves, thinly sliced ½ white onion, diced 2 fresh plum tomatoes, diced 20 fresh basil leaves, cut into a chiffonade (set aside pinch for garnish) 1 teaspoon table salt 2 teaspoons sugar
Fresh, seasonal tomatoes, a cornerstone of Italian cuisine for at least four centuries, are omnipresent on the menus at Cosimo’s. Owner Nick Citera raves about the products from Hudson Valley tomato growers, stressing his chefs’ strong relationships with local growers. “Continental Organics— they’ve said if there’s anything we want, they’ll grow it for us,” Citera notes, adding, “Hepworth Farms in Milton has some of the finest heirloom grape and cherry tomatoes in the country.” For his simple pomodoro sauce nothing but San Marzano tomatoes will do. At Cosimo’s Trattoria in Poughkeepsie, culinary supervisor Matthew Sherry and executive chef Jason Kooperman start with meatballs made with Hudson Valley Cattle Company beef, steep them in pomodoro fortified with slow-roasted tomatoes and finish the dish with dollops of ricotta.
Matthew Sherry
Jason Kooperman
photos this page : ethan harrison
Method 1. Place tomatoes in a small bowl. Add ½ cup water to bowl. Using clean hands, crush the tomatoes, retaining some chunks. 2. In a 4-quart pot, heat oil over high heat. Add garlic, and cook until it starts to brown. Add onion, and reduce heat to medium. Cook until onions are translucent and begin to caramelize. 3. Add diced fresh tomato, stirring to incorporate, then add crushed, peeled tomatoes and water. 4. Bring mixture to a simmer, stirring frequently to prevent bottom from burning. Simmer for about 12 minutes. 5. Remove sauce from heat and let come to room temperature, then add basil, salt and sugar, and stir to incorporate. SLOW-ROASTED TOMATOES
Ingredients 2 pints cherry or grape tomatoes, cut in half through stem end ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon sugar ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon granulated garlic pinch of crushed red pepper pinch of cracked black pepper Method Preheat oven to 200°F. 1. Place tomatoes in large mixing bowl. Add all remaining ingredients, and toss to coat. 2. Place a draining grate or roasting rack on a sheet pan and pour tomatoes on grate and disperse evenly. 3. Put tomatoes in oven and cook for about 3 hours. Tomatoes should be slightly dry on outside, but juicy in the center. Remove tomatoes from oven and let cool. TO SERVE
Method 1. Add slow-roasted tomatoes to pomodoro sauce in a large pot, and set over medium heat. 2. Stir occasionally, until warmed through. Serve with meatballs, garnishing with dollops of ricotta cheese, basil and parmesan cheese. If desired, serve with toasted or grilled bread. Cosimo’s Trattoria 120 Delafield St, Poughkeepsie (845) 485-7172
june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
31
MANHATTAN CLAM CHOWDER ARSENIO FLORES, EASTCHESTER FISH GOURMET Ingredients 40 cherrystone clams 1 thick slice of bacon 1 small onion, diced 1/8 teaspoon minced garlic 1 carrot, diced 5 tablespoons dried oregano, divided ½ red bell pepper, diced ½ green bell pepper, diced 1 Yukon Gold potato, diced 2 stalks celery, diced 20 ounces Italian plum tomatoes 1 bay leaf 1 sprig fresh thyme 1 splash Tabasco sauce 6 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce serves 16 Method 1. Shuck clams, reserving the juice. Rinse the clams well, and coarsely chop. Pass the juice through cheesecloth to strain. 2. In a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat, brown the bacon until golden. 3. Add onion, garlic, carrot and 1 tablespoon oregano to bacon, and sauté until vegetables are tender, about 4 minutes. 4. Add peppers, potatoes, celery and chopped clams. Squeeze the tomatoes by hand to crush, and add to pot. 5. Add bay leaf and thyme. Wrap remaining oregano in cheesecloth and tie closed, then place the sachet in the pot. 6. Add clam juice, and bring to a boil. 7. Add Worcestershire sauce and Tabasco sauce, and let soup simmer for approximately 10 minutes, or until potatoes are tender. 8. Remove bacon and oregano sachet before serving.
Chef Arsenio Flores, of Eastchester Fish Gourmet, knows Manhattan clam chowder inside and out—he’s been making the Scarsdale restaurant’s version for more than 10 years. “Clam chowder” most often evokes visions of a creamy white soup (the New England version), but a brothbased tomato version has been on tables in the Northeast since at least the early 1900s. It was first popularized by Portuguese immigrants in Rhode Island, drawing on their native tomato-based stews. Flores crushes plum tomatoes by hand, so the chunky vegetable’s flavor stands up to the briny pieces of clam.
Eastchester Fish Gourmet 837 White Plains Rd, Scarsdale (914) 725-3450
32
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
photos : margaret rizzuto
twisted soul:
a world of flavors
W
here can you get
Argentine, Malaysian, Ethiopian, Korean, Colombian and American Southern cuisines, as well as bubble tea and cupcakes, all under the same roof? At first glance, Twisted Soul Food Concepts, a tidy hole-in-the-wall Poughkeepsie spot, may appear to be a confusion of flavors, but behind the menu madness, there is a method. When chef Ira Lee opened the eatery in 2007, he wanted to share globally inspired street food with the local community. Drawing on more than eight years of experience as a chef in Mexico as well as the culinary influence of his Argentine wife, Brenda, Lee returned to his home state of New York and chose Poughkeepsie’s Vassar neighborhood as the location for his unique fusion-food concept. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, Lee was comfortable with the Hudson Valley food scene. “I guess it was fate to open here. I was comfortable with the market; the restaurant industry was starting to open up in the area, and the CIA is a good resource to have nearby,” Lee says.
by marissa sertich velie photos by ethan harrison june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
33
I try out the street foods. I try to eat and explore what I think people would honestly eat here in the States.
Initially, Twisted Soul focused primarily on southern United States and Argentine flavors, but the menu quickly expanded to encompass such wide-ranging dishes as octopus empanadas, jerk chicken rice bowls, bubble tea and cupcakes. (Regarding the cupcakes: Lee’s wife, Brenda, is a pastry chef.) Lee travels to several different areas around the world every year, where he picks up inspiration and new flavors from street carts and small food vendors. “I try out the street foods. I try to eat and explore what I think people would honestly eat here in the States,” Lee says. Typically, he visits two countries in the winter and two in the summer, looking for home-style cooking that’s popular in each. When he returns home, Lee lets his ideas “marinate for a while” before incorporating them onto the menu. With more than 20 different countries stamped in his passport, continents collide at Twisted Soul. Colombianstyle arepa corn cakes meet Ethiopian-inspired BBQ tofu, while Filipino-style chicken adobo tops macaroni and cheese. The menu starts with basic global concepts— dumplings, empanadas, arepas, rice or noodle bowls, salads, steamed buns—which are then infused with international flavors. Lee acknowledges that local audiences might not be ready for extreme dishes like cured “century eggs,” a Chinese delicacy, or durian milkshakes, popular in Southeast Asia. “Sometimes I realize that there’s no way in the world that any American palate will be able to take in a dish as it traditionally is, so I’ll change it, adjust it and adapt it to where I think I can sell it,” he explains. For the large number of vegetarian and vegan customers he serves, he omits a dish’s traditional animal products, replacing them with components that offer a similar flavor profile and preserve the personality of the dish. This sort of
34
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
adaptability and attention to customer demand has made Twisted Soul approachable and popular with locals. The price points and portion sizes also are approachable, making it easy for customers to try new flavors without committing to the ticket price of a full meal. Just about everything on the menu is under $10. Rather than paying $12 or $14 for an appetizer followed by a larger entrée as at traditional restaurants, the Twisted concept lets customers explore dishes like duck confit, octopus, lamb, plantains and other new flavors in small bites, presented in a user-friendly form like steamed buns or dumplings or incorporated into a rice or noodle bowl. It’s what might best be described as entry-level international. Lee has expanded to two other locations: Intro Food Concepts (directly across the street) and a northern outpost next to Marist. Located just a stone’s throw from a college campus, the concepts are a draw for the diverse student population that appreciates eating well on a budget. Intro Food Concepts is a crêperie that also serves salads and tamales, while Twisted Soul North specializes in vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free foods. “For the crêpes, I went to Quebec City and Montreal just to eat and [to] research. When I find a niche [dish], I want to travel and see in what countries they’re most popular and how they set up their operations.” Crêpes also fit perfectly in Lee’s $10 price cap. Though Lee has a global mindset, he also understands the importance of local influence. To source his unusual menu, he frequents many of the area’s small ethnic grocery stores to find exactly what he needs. “We use Indian ingredients, we use Asian ingredients, we use Spanish ingredients, so I have to use a lot of different local ingredient outlets,” Lee says. Associated Supermarkets, Krishna Groceries and Welcome Oriental Grocery (all in Poughkeepsie) are just a few of the vendors where Lee checks off his eclectic shopping list. Over time, he has gained a sense of community through his network of small local businesses. “Like farmers, these people have families and support the area too, and I know their families,” Lee notes. What’s the next stop on his culinary travel agenda? Cuba is on the list—depending on how the country opens up in the wake of softened diplomatic relations with the United States—and he’s also itching to return to Southeast Asia, particularly Singapore and Malaysia. Keep your eyes peeled for new arrivals to Twisted Soul’s menu; you never know what culinary souvenirs will turn up. 4
june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
35
shop like
chef lee
Associated Supermarket 690 Main St, Poughkeepsie (845) 473-0000 Latin American and Caribbean specialties, including a vast array of hot sauces. Chef Ira Lee buys yellow cornmeal, for arepas, there.
Krishna Indian Grocery 2300 South Rd, Poughkeepsie (845) 463-4330 Lee picks up garlic peas and spices at this shop, which stocks plenty of Indian and South Asian ingredients, as well as prepared foods.
Welcome Oriental Market 1820 New Hackensack Rd, Poughkeepsie (845) 462-4633 Lee finds sweet potato noodles—“my favorite noodle!” he says—here. This is the spot to pick up dozens of noodle varieties, chile pastes and spice mixes, including a curry powder labeled in five languages.
YOGURT SABROSO IRA LEE, TWISTED SOUL Ingredients 1 cup whole-milk yogurt 1 head cauliflower broken up into bite-sized pieces Extra-virgin olive oil Salt and pepper to taste 1 tablespoon pomegranate seeds 3 mint leaves, roughly torn flatbread of your choice (lavash or pita) serves 1 Method 1. Line a colander with several layers of cheesecloth or a clean dish towel, and set over a bowl. Scoop yogurt onto the cheesecloth, and refrigerate overnight. 2. Preheat oven to 350° F. 3. Toss cauliflower with olive oil, salt and pepper in a baking dish. Roast until caramelized into on a golden brown color. Remove and let cool. 4. Spread yogurt on a plate. Arrange 3 tablespoons cauliflower bits on top. 5. Drizzle with olive oil, then top with pomegranate seeds and mint. Serve with flatbreads on the side.
36
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
NAUGHTY NOODLES WITH CANDIED PECANS IRA LEE, TWISTED SOUL CANDIED PECANS
Ingredients 1 cup sugar 1 cup water ½ cup whole pecans Method Preheat the oven or oil in a deep-fryer to 350° F. 1. Cover a baking sheet with parchment paper, then coat the paper with a nonstick cooking spray. 2. Mix sugar and water in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring until sugar dissolves. Increase the heat to medium high, then add the pecans. Stir occasionally. 3. When the pecans are glazed evenly with syrup (about 3 to 4 minutes), use a slotted spoon to remove them from the saucepan, and place them on the parchment. 4. If using an oven, bake the pecans for 15 minutes, turning the nuts once halfway through. If using the deep fryer, place the pecans in a basket, lower into the oil, and cook for 30 seconds. Remove them from the fryer and turn onto lined sheet. Let cool. Store unused pecans in a sealed container in a dry place. NAUGHTY SAUCE
Ingredients ½ cup Karo corn syrup ½ cup soy sauce ½ cup water ½ cup rice vinegar ¼ cup sugar 2 tablespoons Chinese chile paste or sambal Method 1. Whisk all ingredients together in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Stirring occasionally. 2. Reduce the sauce until it reaches a syrupy consistency. Let cool. Refrigerate leftover sauce and use it to glaze fish or poultry, or add to steamed vegetables. NOODLES
Ingredients 6 ounces fresh lo mein noodles ¼ cup Naughty sauce (or more to taste) ¼ cup candied pecans ¼ cup julienned cucumber 2 tablespoons dried garlic peas 2 tablespoons fresh pea shoots Method 1. Cook lo mein noodles according to package directions. Remove from heat, drain and let cool. 2. Toss the noodles with ¼ cup Naughty sauce, or more to taste. Place in single-serve bowl. 3. Top the noodles with the pecans, cucumber, garlic peas and pea shoots, and serve.
Twisted Soul 47 Raymond Ave, Poughkeepsie (845) 454-2770; twistedsoulconcepts.com
Our Lowest Prices of The Year! Store stock only. Come early for best selection.
FIVE DAY S
LUNCH • DINNER • TAKEOUT
~
R SUMMER S A A -YE
~ LE
UP TO
50
Y 15 TH R JUL O U
SAVIN%GS
Call Today 845.462.1100 10 IBM Road Poughkeepsie, NY 12601
HOURS:
OFF
Mon-Thurs 11:00am - 9:00pm Fri & Sat 11:00am - 10:00pm
19 ~ ONCE-A GH
6934 Route 9 Rhinebeck, NY 12572 Just north of the 9G intersection 845-876-6208 Open Mon–Sat 9:30–5:30, Sun 11–4:30
wk&c_valtab_summersale15_qp.indd 1
4/24/15 9:59 AM
59 BROAD STREET KINDERHOOK, NY
ON TAP THIS SUMMER! THE BEST
LMIUVSIEC!
Est. 1983
An innovative mix of classic American favorites and multiethnic fare freshly prepared and served in warm, friendly surroundings.
our ht for y esday nigwing Compan RY Wedn Bre n us EVE a Hyde Park d running! an ue, Please joi and Rev over 12 years Jam for Blues fixture
Craft Beers
Vegetarian Selections Summer Favorites
Located Across from the FDR Library and Museum
4076 Albany Post Road • Hyde Park, NY 845-229-TAPS (8277) www.hydeparkbrewing.com
(518) 758-1669 w w w. c a ro l i n a h o u s e re st a u r a n t . c o m
june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
37
38
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
summer tonic: DRINK
by timothy buzinski
I
f t h e r e i s a n i m a g e o f g i n embedded
in the Western psyche, it is likely related to William Hogarth’s 1751 etching entitled Gin Lane. In it, Hogarth later wrote, “every circumstance of its horrid effects is brought into view. . . . Idleness, poverty, misery, and distress, which drives even to madness and death.” Gin was vilified in a manner similar to absinthe but, unlike wormwood in the latter, juniper, the essential ingredient in gin, remained a popular flavoring agent, perhaps the reason gin maintained a place in society alongside other forms of alcohol and spirits. The original versions of gin evolved in Holland. Called jenever (juniper), there, it had a touch of sweetness and a modest amount of alcohol compared with other spirits. When English soldiers were sent to support the Dutch during the Thirty Years War (1618-48), they returned home with a thirst for the cheap liquor. Gin eventually took root in England by the early eighteenth century, leading to
stock photo
domestic production, specifically in the Plymouth area. The spirit was relatively simple to produce: Typically, a fermented grain was distilled to isolate the alcohol. During a second distillation, the spirit was flavored with a set of botanicals, including juniper. Plymouth-style gin was fullerbodied and more aromatic than jenever; with development of more efficient stills and distillation techniques, it evolved into a lighter style of gin, now known as London Dry. The English of the eighteenth century consumed their gin neat (without ice or other additives); in the U.S., however, it was often mixed with other ingredients, a practice that spread quickly through England and her colonies. Though its popularity waxed and waned through the next two centuries, along the way gin earned an image as a sophisticated drink to be sipped and enjoyed rather than guzzled. For distillers today, gin is exciting to produce. “Some” juniper is the only requirement other than minimum proof, which means that creative distillers may add any number of
june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
39
The crazy, funky complexity you get out of anything Few drinks epitomize the laid-back, cool, sophisticated nonchalance of summer like a classic gin and tonic. Part of its allure is its simplicity—two parts tonic water to one part gin in a Collins glass with ice and a slice of lime (though the proportions are not carved in, uh, ice). The fact that the drink’s lineage, like that of gin, is clouded in myth and hearsay only adds to its appeal. History does relate, however, that it all started with the bark from the South American cinchona tree, known by the ancient Incas to calm shivering. Cinchona bark is the source of quinine, known since at least the seventeenth century to ward off malaria. British officers in colonial India purportedly added gin to their daily dose of very bitter quinine water to make it more palatable. Some sources even credit the drink for strengthening the Brits and thereby empowering their colonial ambitions in Africa, India and the Far East.
the
gin&
tonic
40
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
botanicals to create a signature flavor nuance. For its Rustic Gin, Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery, one of the first to produce gin in the Hudson Valley, looked to the classics. “We wanted to make a gin that was unique enough, but not straying too far away from a classic London Dry,” says co-owner Jeremy Kidde. “We decided to mix [the gin] in a couple cocktails and we ultimately made our decision based on how it tasted in a finished product that someone would be ordering.” The end product is a blend of six botanicals— there is a clear focus on juniper, of course, but notes of citrus from fresh lemons and limes immediately comes to the forefront, making it perfect for classic gin cocktails. Farther north at the Catskill Distilling Company, in Bethel (Sullivan County), Monte Sachs has created another distinctive gin in the classic London Dry mode. For his Curious Gin, Sachs sought to create a spirit that is more palatable and more appealing to a wider range of customers—a gin “made for people who don’t like gin,” he says. To this end, he uses a “gin basket” technique during distilling, which allows hot vapors to flow through the botanicals. That process, Sachs notes, “produces a much more delicate taste, aroma and flavor.” His recipe includes 14 botanicals (some in less than a “thumbnailsize” portion per 800-liter batch). The resulting gin is subtle and nuanced with juniper, with delicate citrus and layers of herbs and flower notes. Its gentle style makes it an ideal choice for a martini. At Orange County Distillery, in Goshen, John Glebocki and Bryan Ensall also are creating a unique gin based on an old model. Glebocki, a fifth-generation farmer, converted a hundred-year-old barn into a small distillery and tasting room, and he grows or forages everything needed to produce gin and other spirits on the farm, behind the distillery. Glebocki and Ensall worked with about 40 different botanicals before choosing just seven. The nose on this gin is reminiscent of some jenever-style gins—delicate juniper, with a floral, malty quality. Scott Levi, bartender at the elegant Nina Restaurant, in Middletown, describes it: “It smells like the farm, [there is] so much more going on—it’s like you’re smelling the earth.” Ensall adds, “It’s what we grow—we can’t get rid of the black dirt, nor would we want to.” Local bartenders have embraced the local products.
big and herbaceous works fantastically with gin. Jordan Thomas, of Rhinebeck’s hip cocktail lounge The Shelter, is familiar with Warwick Valley Gin. “I went on a kick for a while with Warwick martinis with a twist— that brightness is great and screams summer.” Thomas is a student of his craft, and his approach is driven by the classics. “My favorite is Chartreuse or herbaceous liquors,” he says of his gin mixers. “Especially in the summer, the crazy, funky complexity you get out of anything big and herbaceous works fantastically with gin. I still love The Last Word—it’s a great hot-weather drink.” His version of the Prohibition-era classic is refreshing and layered; notes of spice and fruit resonate on the palate, while the lively freshness of lime accentuates the citrus in the Warwick gin. At Nina, Levi has taken a market-driven approach to cocktails, using fruit, herbs and even vegetables, often raiding the walk-in for whatever is in season. “Fresh everything is the
key,” he stresses. He incorporates berries or cucumbers, and herbs such as mint or basil when contemplating a drink like his Cucumber Martini—Orange County Gin creates a savory bass note that is well-suited to his style. For local gin lovers and cocktail enthusiasts, this movement back to quality gin is welcome and continuing to grow. A stalwart in the local distilling movement, Gardiner’s Tuthilltown Spirits also offers a gin based in wheat and apples, creating a delicate fruitfulness. Stilltheone Distillery, in Port Chester, offers two gins, one exclusively made from honey and another from a blend of wheat and honey. Other local distillers, including Hudson Valley Distillers, already have plans to release new gins. With so many options, gin has become an enjoyable part of the new beverage lexicon, and even those skeptical about gin are likely to find a local version to enjoy. “Sometimes people are not interested,” Levi notes, but he enjoys “using gin and something else and having the person fall in love with a cocktail that they would have never ordered. It’s fun. Gin is fun.” 4
photos top and this page : samantha seeley
june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
41
JORDAN THOMAS, THE SHELTER
SCOTT LEVI, NINA
GIN GIMLET
CUCUMBER GIMLET
Ingredients 2 ounces Catskill Distilling Company Curious Gin ¾ ounce lime cordial (may be adjusted to taste; recipe follows) 1 kaffir lime leaf serves 1 Method 1. Place all the ingredients in a mixing glass and fill with ice. 2. Stir until well-chilled, then strain into a cocktail glass. 3. Garnish with a kaffir lime leaf. LIME CORDIAL
Ingredients 1 cup finely strained lime juice 1 cup granulated sugar 2 inches fresh ginger, sliced (lemongrass and white peppercorns may also be added) makes 2 cups Method 1. In a saucepan over medium heat, bring the lime juice to a bare simmer. 2. Add the sugar, stirring until dissolved. 3. Add the ginger (and lemongrass and/or peppercorns if using) and gently simmer, 10 to 15 minutes.
DANCING DAMSON Ingredients 1 ounce malty herbaceous gin such as Orange County 1 ounce Averell damson plum gin ½ ounce Cocchi Americano (Lillet Blanc also works well) ½ ounce freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 dash orange bitters serves 1
Ingredients 2 quarters fresh lime, plus thin slice to garnish 4 slices cucumber 1 ounce St. Germain Liqueur 2 ounces Orange County Gin serves 1 Method 1. In a cocktail shaker, muddle the lime. 2. Add the cucumber, St. Germain and gin. 3. Fill with ice and shake until well-chilled. 4. Strain over large ice cube in a rocks glass, and garnish with cucumber and lime wheel.
STRAWBERRY & BASIL MARTINI Ingredients ½ ounce freshly squeezed lime juice ½ ounce simple syrup 3 large leaves fresh basil 6 slices fresh strawberries 1 ounce Orange County Gin 1 ounce Orange County Vodka serves 1 Method 1. Place all the ingredients in a cocktail shaker and fill with ice. 2. Shake until well-chilled, and strain into a chilled martini glass. 3. Garnish with more sliced strawberries and a fresh basil leaf. Nina Restaurant 27 West Main St, Middletown (845) 344-6800; nina-restaurant.com
Method 1. Place all the ingredients into a cocktail shaker filled with ice. 2. Shake until well-chilled and strain into a coupe. 3. Top with a dry sparkling wine.
Catskill Distilling Company 2037 Rt 17B, Bethel (845) 583-8569; catskilldistilling.com
THE LAST WORD
Hudson Valley Distillers 1727 Rt 9, Clermont (518) 537-6820; hudsonvalleydistillers.com
Ingredients ¾ ounce Warwick Gin (the original recipe calls for a Holland gin, but Warwick works nicely) ¾ ounce Green Chartreuse ¾ ounce freshly squeezed lime juice ¾ ounce maraschino liqueur serves 1 Method 1. Place all the ingredients into a cocktail shaker filled with ice. 2. Shake until well-chilled, and strain into a cocktail glass. The Shelter 47 East Market St, Rhinebeck (845) 876-1500; shelterwinebar.com
Orange County Distillery 19B Maloney Ln, Goshen (845) 651-2929; orangecountydistillery.com Stilltheone Distillery 1 Martin Pl, Port Chester (914) 217-0347; stilltheonedistillery.com Tuthilltown Spirits 14 Grist Mill Ln, Gardiner (845) 255-1527; tuthilltown.com Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery 114 Little York Rd, Warwick (845) 258-4858; wvwinery.com
42
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
#FIND YOUR SELFIE IN THE SULLIVAN COUNTY CATSKILLS
HOT. COLD. SPICY. SWEeT.
11-800-882-CATS -800-882-CATS SCVA.net
速 I LOVE NEW YORK logo is a registered registered trademark/service trademark/service mark of the NYS Dept. of Economic Development, used with permission.
hepworth far
bey
by christine gritmon photos by adam kurtz
F
arming isn’t—or shouldn’t be—just about growing food. That’s the philosophy of someone who knows a little bit about it: seventh-generation farmer Amy Hepworth of Hepworth Farms, in Milton. “We’re consistently working in this paradigm of ecological, economic and social justice,” she emphasizes. “Working within that framework, we feel that we can achieve a food system that benefits all.”
44
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
rms:
yond organic
june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
45
Hepworth Farms was established in 1818 and opened up a long-standing roadside market 100 years later. The current (seventh) generation of the family on the farm included five children; among them, Amy stood out as the logical pick to head the farm operations. “Amy was always the farmer,” says Gail Hepworth, Amy’s twin sister. “We all helped out but she has always been very tied to the land— she always loved to drive tractors, she loved to be outdoors, she was always learning and inquisitive and interested, and she had a keen sense of nature.” By the 1970s, the well-established Hepworth fruit farm had grown to be a large commercial operation, selling apples all over the United States. Once it passed into Amy’s hands in 1982, the newly minted Cornell pomology graduate made some radical shifts. For starters, she scaled back production—way back, from 1,000 acres in production to only 50. She slashed the farm’s client list, too, keeping only a carefully selected group of buyers who truly cared about how their food was grown and sought a long-term, mutually enriching partnership. Significantly, Amy converted the entire farm to organic, a movement that at the time was just beginning to gain momentum. “I did a lot of experimenting—and lost my farm a lot of money!” Amy admits. “Within five years, we discovered, with a scientific team, that [organic] wasn’t the most ecological system. We had to stop doing organic fruit production because it wasn’t sustainable and ecologically superior.” She didn’t abandon her commitment or her belief in organic farming, however; by the late 1980s, she had refocused farm production away from apples and into vegetables, and today grows more than 400 varieties of certified organic
46
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
produce on 500 acres. The farm is the largest grower of organic tomatoes in the Northeast; other specialties include eggplant, peppers, zucchini, cucumbers and greens. The guiding principles underlying the farm’s operations can be grouped under ecological, economic and social justice headings. “We first set out to be ecological,” Amy notes. ”Then we realized we had to have some kind of economics so we didn’t go out of business. Then we knew that we were identifying with our workers and that we wanted them to prosper with us and just be honored and respected.” Dealing with the economics of farming first involved trimming production and developing market connections. “We downsized enough to connect with people who really wanted to know how their food was grown,” she says. “We really wanted it to be known that we were working really hard to make this food be responsible, the best we can do—and we got lost in the commercial market. Nobody cared; they just wanted the best price, period.” In 1982, the 260-member Park Slope Food Co-Op became one of Hepworth Farms’ first clients; 16,000 members later, the relationship is still strong. Whole Foods now carries the farm’s produce, as do CSAs and restaurants throughout the state. “[Hepworth Farms] is probably one of the more ambitious organic wholesale farmers,” says Joe Angello, owner of Angello’s Distributing, based in Germantown, which brings produce to smaller co-ops throughout the region. “Amy’s one of the most committed agriculturalists— if that’s even a word—when it comes to thinking about organic agriculture and how that works well in the Hudson Valley. She’s probably one of the strongest, most innovative farmers in thinking about how to produce a lot of food and
We’ve changed the direction of our farming—for the last four years we’ve grown by 50 acres a year—we want to see more idle land put into production. —Amy Hepworth
make it available to a wider market than, say, a CSA farmer or a farmers’ market farmer or somebody like that. She goes back generations on that land and is just very, very committed and dedicated to creating organic agriculture commerce in the Hudson Valley.” Mike Geller, owner of Mike’s Organic Delivery, which delivers produce to customers in Connecticut and Westchester County, appreciates the true relationship he and the farm have built. “Amy and Gail and everyone else at Hepworth have really become like a family to me,” he says. “We love that they grow 108 kinds of heirloom tomatoes, and we love that they’ll grow purple broccoli or watermelon radishes, because we want to expose our customers to new and different things they can’t get at the store.” The Would Restaurant, in Highland, is one of a handful of local restaurants the farm supplies directly. “The beauty of it is they go right out into the field and cut it for me so it’s really fresh,” says owner Claire Winslow. “I have the nerve to go down on that farm in the midst of their craziness and somebody always takes care of me! Whatever they grow, we work with.” Hepworth Farms’ microgreens, kale, winter squashes and spring onions are especially popular in The Would’s kitchen, and when tomatoes are in season, they take over the menu. Winslow is also partial to Hepworth’s round, speckled Calliope eggplants. “What’s fun about the eggplants is that when you go to the farmers’ market, you can pick up any different variety (they always have a gazillion of them), and then cook them and see which ones you like better, which ones are more firm and less watery— just play around and see what you can do.” The farm’s commitment to social justice begins with
the farmworkers. “If you want to better the lives of your workers, then you just take steps to do it—make an effort to know them, to know their needs,” Amy says. “It’s always ongoing, but actually to do that well takes a lot; you have to have an extra effort.” In 2000, Amy, alongside partner and head of personnel Gerry Greco, not only boosted the workers’ compensation, but also developed more personal relationships with them, meeting their extended families. “In the new movement of farmers, we all want to retain our help, and we want them to advance, also,” Amy stresses. “If you can create an environment where people like to go to work, and get compensated for their work, it works out for everybody—the farmers get experienced help, the families prosper. They’re a part of our succession; our workers are the future of our farm.” In addition to managing personnel, Greco keeps the farm’s books and manages the office. The breadth of Greco’s background—she grew up in Africa, has traveled over the world, and speaks four languages fluently—has enhanced her innate gift for connecting with people. “She’s the glue, that’s how I look at it,” Amy says, “and one of the nicest personalities in the history of the planet. She keeps everything connected so things don’t fall through the cracks.” Greco also spends Saturdays representing the farm at Heart of the Hudson Valley, in Milton, the only farmer’s market they supply. “The community all wanted our food, and this is the way that they get it,” Greco explains. Amy’s sister Gail joined the farm’s management team as head of production in 2009 after a long career in the biomedical engineering field. Her extensive background in business development, manufacturing and project
june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
47
My whole objective is to create a movement that goes beyond organic— one for everybody.
—Amy Hepworth
management helps her plan the farm’s pre-season, manage and streamline the packing process, and market the farm to an expanding audience. When she first came on board, the farm was still only operating on 50 acres; Gail’s first task was to help scale the operation for growth. “We’ve changed the direction of our farming—for the last four years we’ve grown by 50 acres a year—we want to see more idle land put into production,” Amy notes. Other growth plans include renovating an historic packing/wholesale distribution/retail facility, purchasing and rehabilitating what was formerly the farm’s controlled-atmosphere storage and packing facility, building additional farmworker housing, and creating a retail and drying facility. Though the farm already utilizes some solar power and uses geothermal cooling in the underground packing facility, decreasing energy consumption even further is high on the to-do list. Amy also is extending her efforts beyond the farm, fighting against the corporatization of applied research. “We need applied research to keep us advancing in organic and ecological production systems [but it] has a very serious problem at this time—the government has cut funding,” she notes. “You don’t want chemical companies doing all the applied research and all the consulting—[but] that’s the system that we’re headed to.” Amy sits on the board of directors of the Hudson Valley Research Laboratory, in Highland. “It’s a farmer-owned facility, a unique institution that the growers created to facilitate progress in agricultural techniques,” she says. “We’re fortunate in the Hudson Valley to have a lab that is all about applied research specific to this region.”
48
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
Among other projects, recent efforts at the lab focus on ecologically safe ways to quell the growing brown marmorated stink bug epidemic, which is threatening crops as well as annoying homeowners. Another cause close to Amy’s heart is the call for a “hybrid” farming model—one based on organic principles, yet allowing greater freedom in the face of expanded and improved technology. “The organic movement has been successful, [but] we have to know when the next movement begins and [how] that movement can be incorporated,” she says. “I would like the freedom to grow within that [organic] paradigm without being restricted. Where organic falls shy—possibly in technology, or synthetics, or whatever—if [another method] is ecologically superior, I don’t understand why we’re not using it.” Amy certainly has no plans to decertify the farm. “It’s not to say organic is bad—remember, I love organic!—I’m just studying 2050. It is pretty clear that if we [continue to] farm the way people think organic agriculture [should be done], then we will certainly have an unsustainable and vulnerable food system. The organic movement and conventional growers have a lot more in common than people know—[both] care the same about growing techniques. It seems like the consumer is very misguided— there’s a language barrier that I’d like to break through,” she says. “My whole objective is to create a movement that goes beyond organic—one for everybody.” 4 Hepworth Farms 506 South Rd, Milton (845) 795-2007; hepworthfarms.com
C A T E R I N G + E V E N T S
june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
49
Open 7 days · large patio
AMY CUTAIA
Enjoy specialty meats such as smoked ham, made in house pastrami, grilled pork belly and our new addition, beef tongue 6367 Mill St (Rt 9) Rhinebeck (845) 876-5232 | smokyrockbbq.com
Eclectic
American Cuisine Fresh & Local Ingredients
Main Social Hour (Weekdays 4–6pm) $3 House Wines, Half price apps $1 off Drafts, $4 Well Drinks Late Night Social Hour (Fri & Sat 10–11pm) 2710 West Main Street Village of Wappingers Falls, NY 12590 (845) 297-0510 WestMainKitchenandBar.com
50
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
Lunch - Dinner - Sunday Brunch - Wine Bar
Prix Fixe Dinner Menu Wednesday & Thursday nights $29.95
On & Off Si t e C at e ri ng Ava i lable KRISTA WILD, Owner www.wildfireny.com
74 Clinton St. Montgomery, NY 12549 (845) 457-3770
Orrechiette with Grilled Parsley& Provolone Sausage, Broccolini, Sun-dried Tomatoes in with Garlic & Red Pepper Flakes in a white wine sauce -19
with Cajun Seasoning and a touch of Beer -10
Roast Garlic, Vegetable, Goat Cheese Terrine
Red and Yellow Peppers, Zucchini, Eggplant, Tomato, Goat Cheese & Basil Pesto, Accompanied by Crostini-10
Risotto Tort
Tender Risotto, Breaded with Panko Bread Crumbs Fried & Topped with Melted Provolone Accompanied by Basil Pesto and Marinara - 10
Wild Boar & ricotta Gnocchi
Fussili Andorra
Gnocchi made with our own House made ricotta cheese in Hearty Ragu Of onions, Peppers & Tomatoes with Braised Wild Boar -10
Smokey Calamari
Grilled Chicken with Chorizo, Tomatoes, and Cilantro with Chipotle Peppers with Fussili Pasta-20
Specially Seasoned Deep Fried Calamari tossed in Smoked Paprika , with Chipotle and Smoked Paprika Remoulade - 12
Duck Confit “Lasagna”
Scallops Tartuffo
Layered Steamed Wonton, Shredded Slow cooked Duck with Sautéed Mushrooms, Goat Cheese & a light Smoked Tomato Sauce - 12
ed in a rich reduction s - 29
Burratta
Fettuccine Seared Diver Scallops, Crimini mushrooms, Asparagus &Truffles in Parmesan Sauce - 31
Fresh Mozzarella with a rich creamy center accompanied by Baby Arugula, Candied almonds with Truffle Oil and Balsamic Vinegar, and Crostini -10
to - 30
uce with Tomatoes,
PA S TA
r, Cabernet Demi
Fettucini Arragosta
Lobster and Jumbo Lump crab meat with Fresh Tomatoes, Sweet Peas, in a light tomato tarragon Cream sauce - 29
pple-Brandy Cream ild Rice Pilaf – 26 with a Rich Demi
yme infused Sauce
Fussili Duxelles
LUNCH AND DINNER 7 DAYS SUNDAY BRUNCH WWW.NINA-RESTAURANT.COM
Chicken &Asparagus, Crimini & Shitake Mushrooms in Creamy Wild Mushroom Sauce - 19
Cajun Chicken Penne
Blackened Grilled Chicken in a Spicy Cream Sauce over Penne - 17
Linguini Noce
Grilled Chicken with Caramelized Onions, Walnuts, Baby Spinach, asparagus with a Marsala Wine Sauce over Linguini - 20
d Herbs, over Basil
Penne Vicenza
osemary
Reccheitelle
SALADS
Grilled Chicken, Pancetta, Sundried tomatoes, baby Arugula and Wild Mushrooms in a Rosemary Cream Sauce -19 Orrechiette with Grilled Parsley& Provolone Sausage, Broccolini, Sun-dried Tomatoes in with Garlic & Red Pepper Flakes in a white wine sauce -19
Demiglace with
Garden Salad
Fussili Andorra
Mesclun, Cucumbers, Carrots, Tomato, & Onion - 6.5
Grilled Chicken with Chorizo, Tomatoes, and Cilantro with Chipotle Peppers with Fussili Pasta-20
Scallops Tartuffo
Caesar Salad
Fettuccine Seared Diver Scallops, Crimini mushrooms, Asparagus &Truffles in Parmesan Sauce - 31
Romaine Lettuce, Crostini, & Parmesan Cheese Crisp, with our Caesar dressing- 7.5
Endive Salad
Endive, Sliced Apples, Walnuts, Crumbled Blue Cheese with a Balsamic Vinaigrette – 9.5
SALADS Garden Salad
Mesclun, Cucumbers, Carrots, Tomato, & Onion - 6.5
Baby Spinach Salad
Caesar Salad
Romaine Lettuce, Crostini, & Parmesan Cheese Crisp, with our Caesar dressing- 7.5
Baby Spinach, Bacon, Chopped Egg with Choice of Dressing – 9
Endive Salad
Veranda Salad
Endive, Sliced Apples, Walnuts, Crumbled Blue Cheese with a Balsamic Vinaigrette – 9.5
RESTAURANT❘ | BAR ❘| LOUNGE ❘| PRIVATE PARTIES
Baby Spinach Salad
Baby Arugula with oven Roasted Grape Tomatoes, Avocado, & Shaved Manchego Cheese, with Lemon & Extra Virgin Olive Oi
Baby Spinach, Bacon, Chopped Egg with Choice of Dressing – 9
Veranda Salad
Baby Arugula with oven Roasted Grape Tomatoes, Avocado, & Shaved Manchego Cheese, with Lemon & Extra Virgin Olive Oil - 10
Pear and Goat Cheese Salad
Pear and Goat Cheese Salad
Mesclun Greens accompanied by Port wine Poached Pears and Goat Cheese with a white wine Vinaigrette - 11
Goat Cheese Salad
Mesclun Green with Roasted Beets & Goat Cheese with Balsamic Dressing – 11
Harvest Salad
Organic Produce
Mesclun Greens accompanied by Port wine Poached Pears an Goat Cheese with a white wine Vinaigrette - 11
Goat Cheese Salad
Baby Kale with Dried Cranberries, apples, Spiced Walnuts with Champagne Vinaigrette - 10
Mesclun Green with Roasted Beets & Goat Cheese with Balsamic Dressing – 11
Harvest Salad
Baby Kale with Dried Cranberries, apples, Spiced Walnuts with Champagne Vinaigrette - 10
june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
51
FABULOUS FARMS, FOOD & MARKETS
farmers’ markets in the hudson valley 2015 Beacon Metro-North Station, waterfront at the ferry landing Year-round, Sun 10–3 beaconfarmersmarket.org
COLUMBIA COUNTY Chatham 15 Church St Jun 5–Oct 2, Fri 4–7 chathamrealfoodcoop.net Hillsdale Roeliff Jansen Park, 9140 Rt 22, Hillsdale May 23–Oct 31, Sat 9–1 facebook.com/copakehillsdalefarmersmarket
Hyde Park 4390 Rt 9, across from Town Hall Jun 5–Oct 31, Sat 9–2 hydeparkfarmersmarket.com
Hudson 6th & Columbia St May 2–Nov 21, Sat 9–1 hudsonfarmersmarketny.com
Kinderhook Village Green at intersection of Rt 9 & Albany Ave May 9–Oct 10, Sat 8:30–12:30 kinderhookfarmersmarket.com
Philmont 116 Main St May 24–Oct 18, Sun 10–2 pbinc.org/revitalization
Milan Milan Town Hall, 20 Wilcox Circle May 22–Aug 25, Fri 3–7 milanfarmersmarket.com
DUTCHESS COUNTY Amenia Amenia Town Hall, 4988 NY 22 May 15–Oct 9, Fri 3–7 ameniafarmersmarket.com Amenia Share the Bounty: Hudson River HealthCare, 3360 NY 343 Jun 30–Oct 27, Tues 9–1 hrhcare.org Arlington Vassar Alumni Lawn, 161 College Ave Jun 4–Sept 24, Thurs 3–7 arlingtonhasit.org
52
the valley table
june
Fishkill Main Street Plaza May 28–Oct 29, Thurs 9–3 vofishkill.us
–
august
2015
Millbrook Municipal parking lot across from Bank of Millbrook May 23–Oct 31, Sat 9–1 millbrooknyfarmersmarket.com Millerton Main St & Railroad Plaza May 23–Oct 31, Sat 9–1 millertonfarmersmarket.org Pawling Pawling Village Green Jun 13–Sept 19, Sat 9–1 pawlingfarmersmarket.org
Poughkeepsie Mobile Markets Jun 11–Oct 23 New Hope Community Center, 104 Hudson Ave Tues, 11–2 Interfaith Towers Senior Housing, 66 Washington St Thurs, 11–2 The Family Partnership Center, 29 N Hamilton St Fri, 12–4 Hudson River Housing Underwear Factory, 8 N Cherry St Sat, 11–2 Red Hook Hudson Valley Farmers Market 229 Pitcher Ln Year-round, Sat 10–3 greigfarm.com/hudson-valley-farmers-market Rhinebeck Municipal parking lot at 61 E Market St May 10–Nov 29, Sun 10–2 rhinebeckfarmersmarket.com Wassaic Main St, near post office May–Oct, Tue 2–6 dutchesstourism.com/listings/farmers-markets/ wassaic-farmers-market
ORANGE COUNTY Cornwall Town Hall, 183 Main St Jun 3–Oct 28, Wed 10–4; June 6–Oct 31, Sat 10–2 facebook.com/cornwallcoop
Florida Intersection of State Highways 94 & 17A Jun 16–Oct 27, Tues 9–2 warwickinfo.net/floridafarmersmarket Goshen Church Park at the intersection of S Church St & Main St May 29–Oct 30, Fri 10–5 facebook.com/pages/Goshen-FarmersMarket/120704554614696 Middletown Erie Way from Montgomery St to Cottage St Jun 7–Oct 24, Sat 8–1 middletownbid.org Monroe Museum Village at 1010 Rt 17M Jun 17–Oct 28, Wed 9–3 Montgomery Clinton St Jun 21–Oct 11, Sat 9–2 orangetourism.org Newburgh Healthy Orange, 132 Broadway (between Landers St & Johnston St, next to DMV building) Jul 7–Oct 29, Tues 10–3 healthyorange.com/newburgh-farmers-market Newburgh Newburgh Mall, 1401 Rt 300 Jul 11–Sept 26, Sat 10–2 newburghmall.com Pine Bush 62 Main St May 30–Oct 17, Sat 9–2 pinebushfarmersmarket.com
SATURDAYS 8AM – 2PM on Bank Street, between Park & Main
Get fresh! FMNP and SNAP Accepted
Tuxedo Tuxedo Train Station, 240 Rt 17 Jun 20–Nov 21, Sat 9–2 tuxedofarmersmarket.com Walden Village Square, 1 Municipal Square Jul 2–Oct 1, Thurs 2–7 villageofwalden.org Warwick Parking lot at South St & Bank St May 10–Nov 22, Sun 9–2 warwickvalleyfarmersmarket.org West Point Town of Highlands, West Point Thayer Gate, across from West Point Museum and Sacred Heart Church Jun 14–Nov 1, Sun 9–2 facebook.com/pages/West-Point-Town-ofHighlands-Farmers-Market/217461788363902
june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
53
CoachVTableSummer2015.pdf
1
3/24/15
3:41 PM
Celebrating
3
Years of Farmstead Fresh & Aged Goat Cheese, Yogurt and , s r a e y e es Milk. After all th g our
C
M
Y
Fresh, local produce, breads, organics, cheese, music & more pinebushfarmersmarket.com
Saturdays May 30 to October 17 9am-2pm Main & New St.
makin we are still y the same. tl cheeses exac iles Cahn -M nder
CM
MY
CY
Fou
CMY
K
FARM MARKET AND GREENHOUSE ANNUALS - PERENNIALS - GARDEN SUPPLIES FRESH FRUITS BAKERY
•
•
VEGETABLES
•
CIDER DONUTS
SOFT-SERVE ICE CREAM
•
GIFTS
CHECK OUT OUR WEBSITE FOR SPECIAL EVENTS!
OPEN EVERYDAY EXCEPT MONDAY
CoachFarm.com
5100 ROUTE 209, ACCORD (845) 626-CORN (2676) SAUNDERSKILL.COM
PUTNAM COUNTY
ROCKLAND COUNTY
SULLIVAN COUNTY
Brewster 208 E. Main St Jun 13–Nov 21, Wed & Sat 9–2 brewsterfarmersmarket.com
Nyack Municipal parking lot, 119 Main St Apr 2–Nov 19, Thurs 8–2 (also open Nov 25) nyackchamber.org/nyack-farmers-market
Barryville 3385 Rt 97, behind The River Market May 16–Oct 31, Sat 10–1 barryvillefarmersmarket.com
Garrison Boscobel House and Gardens, 1601 Rt 9D May 9–Nov, Sat 8:30–1:30
Pearl River River Church parking lot, 253 Ehrhardt Rd Jun 6–Oct 31, Fri 9–2 rocktourism.com
Callicoon Callicoon Creek Park, A. Dorrer Dr May 3–Nov 8, Sun 11–2 sullivancountyfarmersmarkets.org
Putnam Valley Tompkins Corners Cultural Center, 729 Peekskill Hollow Rd Jun 26–Aug 28, Fri 3–6:30 putnamvalleyresidents.com
Piermont M&T Bank parking lot, 527 Piermont Ave May 24–Nov 22, Sun 9:30–3 downtoearthmarkets.com
Liberty Municipal parking lot, Darbee Ln Jul 4–Sept 4, Fri 3–6 sullivancountyfarmersmarkets.org
Spring Valley Memorial Park, 1 Veterans Dr Jul 1–Nov 25, Wed 8:30–3
Rock Hill 223 Rock Hill Dr May 30–Sept 5, Sat 10–1 rockhillfarmersmarket.com
54
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
OUTDOOR MARKET SUNDAYS MAY 10 - NOVEMBER 22 CHECK OUR WEBSITE FOR EVENTS SCHEDULE
RHINEBECK MUNICIPAL PARKING LOT
WINERY
•
TASTINGS
•
TOURS
10 Ann Kaley Lane, Marlboro 845.236.7620 • www.stoutridge.com
Roscoe off Rt 17 on NY 206, Niforatos Field May 10–Oct 11, Sun 10–2 scva.net/business/roscoe-farmers-market
Highland 1 Haviland Rd Jun–Oct, Wed 3–7 townoflloyd.com
ULSTER COUNTY
Kingston Wall St, between Main St & John St May 23–Nov 21, Sat 9–2 kingstonfarmersmarket.org
Ellenville Barthels Farm Market: 8057 Rt 209 Apr 1–Dec 25, Everyday 8–6 facebook.com/barthels.farmmarket Gardiner Green Market, Rt 45/55, on Wallkill Valley Rail Trail next to Pasquale’s Pizzeria May 22–Oct 2, Fri 3–7 facebook.com/pages/Gardiner-GreenMarket/147800581902736
Kingston YMCA Farm Project Jun 16–Oct 1 kingstonymcafarmproject.org Kingston YMCA, 507 Broadway Thurs 4–7 Bike-Powered Mobile Farm Stand Tues 3:30–6:30
Milton Heart of the Hudson Valley, Cluett Schantz Park, 1801–1805 Rt 9W Jun 14–Oct 10, Sat 9–2 hhvfarmersmarket.com New Paltz 3 Veterans Dr, adjacent to New Paltz Community Center May 31–Nov 22, Sun 10–3 newpaltzfarmersmarket.com Rosendale 408 Main St, behind Rosendale Theatre Jun 7–Oct 25, Sun 9–2 facebook.com/RosendaleFM Saugerties 115 Main St May 23–Oct 31, Sat 10–2 saugertiesfarmersmarket.com june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
55
Woodstock Bearsville Theater, 291 Tinker St Apr 5-fall, Sun 12–4 bearsvilletheater.com/events-calendar/ bearsville-farmers-market-12-4
HUDSON VALLEY SAUSAGE COMPANY
Woodstock 6 Maple Ln May 27–Oct 21, Wed 3:30–dusk woodstockfarmfestival.com
85 Vineyard Ave., Highland
WESTCHESTER COUNTY
E, AUSAG S T S E N THE FI T & SALUMI WURS
Bronxville Stone Place at Paxton Avenue May 9–Nov 21, Sat 8:30–1 bronxvillefarmersmarket.com
·
845-691-9312 Eliasmarket@optonline.net STORE HOURS: Fridays 12-6, Saturdays 9-5, Sundays 10-2
Organics! DAILY LUNCH SPECIALS • BAKERY LOCAL & SPECIALTY GROCERIES • GLUTEN-FREE
Chappaqua Metro-North Station, Allen Pl May 16–Nov 21, Sat 8:30–1 chappaquafarmersmarket.org
PICK Y OUR S T RAWBE RRIE S
Come by the market for our organic meats and produce raised on our farm.
WEEKEND
BBQ
DELICIOUS FOOD! NY STATE WINE, BEER & HARD CIDER SEASONAL PRODUCE READY IN AUGUST
Croton-on-Hudson Parking lot at Municipal Pl, off of Rt 9A May 10–Nov 22, Sun 9–2 downtoearthmarkets.com Dobbs Ferry Cedar St & Main St Jun 5–Nov 20, Fri 9:30–3:30 dobbsferryfarmersmarket.com
V E GE TA BLE + H E RB S TA RT S
WE’RE OPEN ALL YEAR MARKET 518 789 4191 HOURS MON-THURS+SAT 9-6 FRI+SUN 9-6:30 5409 ROUTE 22 MILLERTON NEW YORK BULK SOIL & COMPOST 518 789 3252 HOURS MON-FRI 8-12 1-5 SAT 8-12 mcenroeorganicfarm.com
Cortlandt 2267 Crompond Rd Apr 1–Dec 24, daily, 7-close (call 917-739-0686 for closing time) cortlandtfarmmarket.com
ORGA N IC S OILS + COM POS T
LIVE MUSIC EVERY WEEKEND WEEKEND HOURS 12-5:30
Hartsdale Metro-North station, 1 E Hartsdale Ave Jun 6–Nov 21, Sat 8–3 Hastings 7 Maple Ave May 30–Nov 21, Sat 8:30–1:30 hastingsfarmersmarket.org Irvington 101 Main St May 31–Nov 22, Sun 9–2 irvingtonfarmersmarket.net Katonah John Jay Homestead, 400 Jay St Jun 13–Oct 31, Sat 9–1 johnjayhomestead.org Katonah Muscoot Farm, 51 Rt 100 May 10–Oct 25, Sun 10–3 muscootfarm.org
43 Mt. Zion Road Marlboro, NY 845-236-7848 • 845-236-2684 www.thewineryatweedorchards.com
56
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
Larchmont Metro-North parking deck off of Chatsworth Ave May 9–Dec 19, Sat 8:30–1 downtoearthmarkets.com
gossett 67_Layout 1 8/28/14 2:43 PM Page 1
Abundant local vegetables • wine grass-fed / organic meats • cheese pickles • jams • breads • chicken handmade pasta • local honey seafood • dairy and baked goods home made desserts
Come harvest your own delicious fruits and vegetables today! Blueberries Strawberries Raspberries Blackberries Peaches Nectarines Plums Apples Flowers Herbs Pasture-raised Eggs 9AM-6PM, 7 DAYS A WEEK HOPEWELL JCT, NY 845.897.4377 FISHKILLFARMS.COM
Grass-Fed Beef ~ Pastured Pork
raised naturally on open pasture in Warwick, NY
On-farm Sales: Saturdays 10 - 3
Enter at 32 Prices Switch Road
info@lowlandfarm.com
CRAFT BEER & BEER ON TAP
Warwick NY 10990
(845) 481-3459
Hahn Farm AllNaturalMeat
PASTURE-RAISED MEATS
Angus Beef, Poultry, Pork, Lamb, Turkeys
Naturally raised seasonal produce
Visit our Farm Market
1697 Salt Point Turnpike • Salt Point, NY 12578 266-5042 or 266-3680
www.HahnFarm.com
june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
57
Education Programs Agriculture • Environment Grass-fed Meats and Cheeses Summer Camps (day & overnight)
Farm Market Open Year Round Learn, connect, eat healthy foods. It’s another way to “Save the Children” 845.485.8438 (office & general info)
845.485.9885 (market & creamery)
sproutcreekfarm.org
everything for your table... from meadowland farm
Mount Kisco St. Mark’s Church, 85 E. Main St Year-round, Sat 9–1 facebook.com/MtKiscoFarmersMarket New Rochelle Huguenot Park, in front of New Rochelle High School Jun 5–Nov 20, Fri 8:30–2:30 downtoearthmarkets.com Ossining Corner of Spring St & Main St Year-round, Sat 8:30–1 downtoearthmarkets.com Peekskill Bank St between Park St & Main St Jun 6–Nov 21, Sat 8–2 downtownpeekskill.com/markets Pleasantville Memorial Plaza (next to Metro-North station) May 23–Nov 21, Sat 8:30–1 pleasantvillefarmersmarket.org Pound Ridge 65 Westchester Ave, Year-round, hours by appt. (914) 764-3006 facebook.com/PoundRidgeOrganics Rye Parking lot on Theodore Fremd Ave May 24–Dec 6, Sun 8:30–2 downtoearthmarkets.com
csa shares still available at www.meadowlandfarmny.com
meadowland farm clinton corners, ny
R OWN STRAWBERR U O Y K IES PIC CERTIFIED ORGANICALLY GROWN “SOL AR-POWERED SWEETNESS”
THOMPSON-FINCH FARM 750 Wiltsie Bridge Road, Ancram NY
South Salem 1202 Rt 35 Year-round, Sat 9–1 & Sun 10–2 gossettbrothersnursery.com Tuckahoe Depot Square, at the Metro-North station Jun 28–Nov 29, Sun 10–4 tuckahoe.com White Plains Court St between Martine Ave & Main St Apr 29–Nov 25, Wed 8–4 cityofwhiteplains.com Yonkers Groundwork Hudson Valley, Van der Donck Park across from Yonkers train station Jun 5–Oct 30, Fri 12–5:30 groundworkhv.org/event/farmers-market Yonkers St. John’s Parish, 1 Hudson St Jul 9–Nov 19, Thurs 9–4 stjohnsgs.org
For opening date & picking information please visit Facebook, www.thompsonfinch.com or call (518) 329-7578
Lots of berries, exquisite flavor, friendly folks. It’s a tradition! 58
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
UPDATES: valleytable.com
Market at Todd Hill Store Open
TASTING ROOM DISTILLERY TOURS ORANGECOUNTYDISTILLERY.COM
19B MALONEY LANE GOSHEN, NY 845-651-2929
Summer Hours: Memorial Day - Labor Day Mon, Wed, Thu: 10 AM - 7 PM Fri: 10 AM - 8 PM, Sat,Sun: 9 AM - 7 PM Closed on Tuesday
Outdoor Farmers’ Market June - October Fri: 3 PM - 7 PM Sun: 2 PM - 6 PM
Contact us at: 845/849-0247 tastenytoddhill.com
An amazing collection of foods and products grown or made in the Hudson Valley. Located on the Taconic State Parkway, 10 miles north of I-84, 1 mile south of Route 55, Lagrange, NY
845-795-5473 14 Gala Lane
Milton, NY 12547
Celebrating 100 years!
Homegrown Seasonal Produce Homemade Baked Goods Local & Gourmet Foods Fine Gifts, Home Decor & Accessories Art Gallery & Frame Shop Baked & Grown Just Like Home Open Daily 190 Angola Rd., Cornwall (845) 534-4445 JonesFarmInc.com june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
59
— FROGMORE TAVERN — Serving American Comfort Food in a Gastro Pub Setting 12 taps in constant rotation | Seasonal cocktails Open Lunch & Dinner 7 Days a Week with Late Night Menu on Fri & Sat Offering catering on & off premises | Banquet room available Call for your next birthday, wedding rehearsal, or special event 63 North Front St. Kingston, NY 12401 | 845-802-0883 Hours: Sun 11-9 | Mon-Thurs 12-10 | Fri/Sat 12-11 or later
60
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
We Start Fresh Every Day!
MADE FRESH DAILY AT ALL LOCATIONS NEWBURGH
路
MIDDLETOWN
路
CENTRAL VALLEY
路
POUGHKEEPSIE
cosimosrestaurantgroup.com
ILY D M E FA WN O
Since
1978
Everything Under the Sun for Healthy Living
motherearthstorehouse.com DAILY LUNCH SPECIALS
Al Fresco Restaurant When you dine at Al Fresco Ristorante your life will have more flavor! There are many good Italian restaurants in the Hudson Valley. Al Fresco Ristorante stands out for real authentic Italian with fresh, healthy and traditional family recipes utilizing fresh meat, seafood and produce from local farmers.
62
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
300 Kings Mall Ct KINGSTON 336-5541
1955 South Rd POUGHKEEPSIE 296-1069
249 Main St SAUGERTIES 246-9614
1036 MAIN ST., FISHKILL 845.896.3600
LOCALLY GROWN
flight of the monarchs by keith stewart
O
n a sunny friday afternoon in late august
last year—not too hot, with just a hint of a breeze, the radiant blue sky streaked with a line of feathery clouds settling over the hills to the west—we had nearly completed our harvest for Saturday’s market. The lettuces and assorted greens were in from the field, wetted down and stored in the cooler; the potatoes were freshly dug; garlic, onions and shallots were set aside; tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and a few remaining cucumbers were packed and ready to go on the truck. The only task left was to collect the herbs, and for this job the crew split up into pairs: Jake and Gunnar headed off to bring in mint, chives, tarragon and anise hyssop; Laura and Emma to the sage, thyme and marjoram; Josh and Liz to the parsley and basil; and Chris and Derek to rosemary, lavender, oregano and savory. I decided to lend a hand with the parsley and basil, both best-sellers at our stand. For a while, Josh, Liz and I worked quietly, immersed in our own thoughts. Suddenly, Josh broke the silence. “Keith, quick, come over here. There’s a monarch.” With harvesting knife tucked under my left arm and a half-finished bunch of parsley in hand, I jumped over a few rows and headed in Josh’s direction. Sure enough, flitting along the grassy edge of the field was a large, orange-and-black butterfly
photo : dwight sipler ; illustration : flavia bacarella
june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
63
with distinctive white spots on its wings—undoubtedly a monarch. It was worth being startled out of my late-day reverie just to catch a glimpse of it. Not so long ago—5, 10, 15 years—we saw monarchs on the farm regularly (so often, in fact, that one would scarcely bother to comment on an individual sighting). But times have changed. Nowadays, we’re lucky to see even a few monarchs over the course of a season. Adult monarchs enjoy the nectar of many flowering plants, and in the process perform valuable pollinating services. But when it comes to propagating themselves, the only plant monarchs are drawn to is milkweed. The female lays her eggs on milkweed. The eggs hatch into impressive black-, white- and yellow-striped caterpillars that feed on the milkweed leaves and grow rapidly. The milkweed serves double-duty as both food and protection for the caterpillars. The plant contains toxic glycosides, to which the monarch caterpillars are immune but, by consuming them, the caterpillars themselves become toxic and highly unpalatable to most predators (primarily birds). It’s a good strategy for
Monarch Population Overwintering in Mexico BASED ON AN ESTIMATED 20 MILLION BUTTERFLIES PER ACRE
Year (December)
1996
Butterflies (Millions) 1,049
2001
2006
2010 2014
334
268
201
33
DATA SOURCE: WORLD WILDLIFE FUND MEXICO AND THE RESERVA BIOSFERA DE LA MARIPOSA MONARCA BUTTERFLY ILLLUSTRATION BY FLAVIA BACARELLA
64
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
Beginning in late summer, these paper-winged insects perform what seems to be a miraculous feat of endurance ...
survival as long as there is milkweed around—without it, monarchs are unable to complete their reproductive cycle. In North America, there are two semi-distinct populations of monarch butterflies—one west of the Rocky Mountains and one to the east. Both populations undertake extraordinary migrations. The western population summers in the conifer forests of Washington and Oregon, then migrates to spend winters in California. Eastern monarchs spend their summers spread throughout the eastern U.S. and as far north as southern Canada. Beginning in late summer, these paper-winged insects perform what seems to be a miraculous feat of endurance: They fly 3,000 miles south to the Sierra Madre of Mexico, where they cluster together on fir trees at elevations as high as 10,000 feet in locations so remote they weren’t discovered until 1976. Understanding the critical importance of the monarch’s winter habitat, the Mexican government created the Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve in 1986 and expanded it to cover 217 square miles in 2000. In recent years, extensive efforts have been made to promote sustainable forestry practices among the people who live in and around the protected area, about 80 miles from Mexico City. Milkweed, though not an especially bothersome weed for most farmers and gardeners, is one of Roundup’s many
photo above left : hs pauldi ; photo top center : liz west
CALL TO ACTION Protection under the Endangered Species Act would be one step toward sustaining the remaining population of this iconic butterfly, but there are things individuals can do to help the monarch’s cause. • Don’t use Roundup on your lawn or garden. • Allow a few milkweed plants to gain a footing on your property. • Shun products that contain GM foods—they’re the ones that get sprayed the most. • Eat organic products whenever you can—by law, organic foods cannot contain GM ingredients. • Visit the MonarchWatch website (monarchwatch.org) to learn more about setting up a monarch waystation (a dedicated spot with milkweed and nectar plants to benefit monarchs at all stages of their life cycle) in a garden or local school. • Create a butterfly-friendly habitat for monarchs and other butterflies and insects. It will take some planning and patience to grow milkweed (the seeds for next year’s milkweed plants must be sown in the fall, but the plants are perennials once established), but with a little effort, you can create a habitat that is as beautiful as it is beneficial. Detailed information about growing milkweed can be found at the Hudson Valley Seed Library (seedlibrary.org), which sells milkweed seeds, and at MonarchWatch.
casualties. The greatly expanded cultivation of genetically modified (GM) crops has led to a tremendous increase in the use of Roundup. In 2007, the latest year for which there are EPA estimates, over 180 million pounds of Roundup were sprayed on cropland in this country—more than twice the amount sprayed in 2001. Today, that number is probably much higher. There is increasing evidence that the growing use of GM crops combined with increased spraying with glyphosate is changing entire ecosystems. Indeed, due to its expansive worldwide use, it may be changing the face of our planet. Another class of insecticides, neonicotinoids, has been implicated in the disastrous collapse of bee colonies and could harm monarchs, too. In this country, the Center for Biological Diversity, the Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation and the Center for Food Safety have recently petitioned the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service to list the monarch butterfly as a “threatened species” under the Endangered Species Act, which would make it illegal to intentionally kill monarchs or modify their habitat without a permit. It also could result in the designation of critical habitat areas in which the spraying of herbicides that contain glyphosate would be prohibited. The petition is under review; a ruling isn’t expected until mid-2016. 4
photo above right courtesy csiro ; photo bottom right : hs pauldi
june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
65
66
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
A GLUTEN-FREE
primeR
T
en years ago, many people, including savvy foodies, had never heard of the word gluten, much less the implications it could have on health. Few, if any, restaurants posted gluten-free dishes on their menus, and gluten-free bakeries were nonexistent. Now firmly established in the culinary vocabulary, glutenfree is tossed around almost as freely as low-fat. Restaurants throughout the Hudson Valley tout their gluten-free choices; mainstream supermarkets as well as health food stores have expanded their gluten-free sections, and a whole new sector of bakeries has emerged sans gluten. To separate the wheat from the chaff, so to speak, this primer presents some essential facts about gluten and how those affected by this ubiquitous substance can eat without it—and still enjoy mealtime.
bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
67
WHAT IS GLUTEN? Gluten is a protein (actually, it’s a combination of two proteins—gliadin and glutelin) found in many grains. In its natural state it helps nourish the embryonic seed and bind the grain’s components together. It is insoluble in water—it’s what is left after grain has been milled and the starch washed away. Incorporated into flour, gluten’s sticky nature helps give dough elasticity. WHAT FOODS CONTAIN GLUTEN? Gluten is present in all wheat (durum, emmer, spelt, farina, faro and einkorn), rye, barley and triticale (a new grain developed as a wheat substitute), and thus it’s present in any food that uses these grains or flour made from them. This includes bread, pastries, pasta, noodles (including ramen and egg noodles), cereal, crackers (including pretzels and graham crackers), breakfast foods like pancakes and waffles, and any sauce or gravy that uses wheat flour as a thickener. Brewer’s yeast also contains gluten, as do most beers, ales, malt beverages (including malted milk and milkshakes) and malt vinegar. Pope Francis has yet to address the sad fact that Catholic communion wafers, too, contain gluten. In short, unless the labeling of a prepared product clearly states it is gluten-free, it likely contains some main ingredient, thickener, seasoning or enzyme derived from gluten. WHO NEEDS TO AVOID GLUTEN? According to estimates from the Mayo Clinic, about 1 percent of the population suffers from celiac disease—a genetically linked autoimmune disease. Triggered by the presence of gluten, the body reacts against itself, in this case causing painful inflammation of the small intestines, resulting in malabsorption of essential nutrients that ultimately can lead to anemia, osteoporosis, thyroid disorders and even infertility. There is no cure and no medication for celiac disease—the only way to manage the condition is with a strict gluten-free diet. Less well-understood, but not necessarily less painful, is non-celiac gluten sensitivity (NCGS), whose symptoms can mimic those of celiac disease. Anecdotal evidence suggests as many as 20 percent of Americans may suffer from NCGS, experiencing uncomfortable abdominal cramps, belching and water retention after eating gluten products. “Gluten is a potent protein that
stimulates an immune response and makes some people feel crummy,” notes Dr. Louis Aurisicchio, a gastroenterologist with Putnam Hospital Center and Mount Kisco Medical Group, who adds, “Any patient who comes in with abdominal pain, weight loss and bloating—celiac disease is thought of at the first encounter.” Blood tests and a biopsy of the small intestine can confirm the diagnosis. WHAT FOODS ARE OFF LIMITS ON A GLUTEN-FREE DIET? If you’ve been diagnosed with celiac disease or NCGS, identifying triggers and reading labels becomes a necessary obsession. The nomenclature on processed food labels can be dizzying. Wheat or wheat-derived product in any form, of course, is the primary red flag; packaged products containing wheat are required to be labeled with that information because wheat is classified as a major food allergen. “Natural flavors” can be tricky—it is a big umbrella under which many glutencontaining additives can fall—thus anything with added flavorings and not certified as gluten-free should be avoided. “Hydrolyzed vegetable protein,” found in many packaged products, is another flag (it usually is made from wheat protein). Uncertified soy sauce and other soy products also are off limits, which is somewhat surprising since soybeans are naturally gluten-free. However, because soybeans (and oats) are handled and processed in such close conjunction with wheat or other grains, it is often seriously cross-contaminated. (A safer choice for soy-sauce lovers is tamari.) WHAT’S LEFT TO EAT? Many popular and common foods are naturally gluten-free, and many others can be created using gluten-free ingredients. Meat and fish are safe bets—as long as they’re fresh and unprepared (meat, fish or other products that have been marinated or contain flavorings or other additives are not safe—most of these preparations contain gluten). Gluten is not in buckwheat, rice, quinoa, corn or millet, nor is it in eggs or dairy products. Fresh fruits, vegetables and nuts are gluten-free, as are wines and distilled liquors. (Even though liquors such as scotch or bourbon are made using glutencontaining grains, the distillation process eliminates the gluten peptides). The Hudson Valley’s signature beverage—hard cider—also is naturally gluten-free.
bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb 68
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
DOES CELIAC DISEASE OR NCGS MEAN RESTAURANTS ARE OFF-LIMITS? Dining out can be a challenge for anyone with special dietary needs, but the growing consciousness about gluten in food has caught the attention of many restaurateurs and chefs. So, although living with gluten intolerance requires extra diligence, it needn’t eliminate the enjoyment of a meal out. With the number of gluten-sensitive customers on the rise, more restaurants now offer gluten-free items on their menus. In fact, gluten-free cuisine is one of the hottest food trends identified by the National Restaurant Association. New regulations by the FDA set strict rules on restaurants labeling items as gluten-free. Queries to the wait staff, maître d’ or even the chef should answer questions about ingredients, preparation methods and cross-contamination risks. There also is a growing trend toward totally gluten-free businesses. Ella’s Bella’s (Beacon), By the Way Bakery (Hastings) and Flour Buds (Nyack) are among the growing number of bakeries in the Hudson Valley proving gluten-free can be delicious. WHERE TO TURN FOR SUPPORT Many local community centers, libraries, hospitals and clinics host support group meetings. There are a growing number of “virtual” celiac support groups that offer advice, menu suggestions and recipes. One of the most popular online sources in this region is Gluten-Free Hudson Valley, where Ann Byrne, a community blogger for the Poughkeepsie Journal, shares her experiences living gluten-free in the Hudson Valley. A number of entrepreneurs who know first-hand what living with a gluten intolerance can mean have adjusted their menus and even dedicated their entire kitchens to gluten-free cooking. Carley Hughes, of Ella’s Bellas, and Tom Costello, of Thyme Restaurant in Yorktown Heights, prove gluten-free cooking is not magic, and the results can be downright 4 delicious. A few of their recipes follow.
a field guide to alternative flours Different types of gluten-free flours have varying properties that make them more or less suitable for different kinds of baking. Most chefs recommend making a blend of several different kinds, taking advantage of each type’s best qualities. Arrowhead Mills, Bob’s Red Mill, Glutino and King Arthur are among the companies that make pre-mixed, all-purpose gluten-free flour blends.
Buckwheat flour
Rice flour
Nutty flavor, substitute for whole-wheat flour.
Can be found in several versions: brown, white and sweet white. Moist and lightly flavored; good as a thickening agent, though too much can make foods gummy.
CORN FLOUR Mellow, sweet flavor. Ranges from coarsely ground to fine, smooth grains.
Sorghum
Corn starch
This cereal grain is grown in many developing countries; it is most often found on these shores in molasses. Flavor ranges from sweet to slightly bitter. Very close in taste and texture to “regular” all-purpose wheat flour.
Not to be confused with corn flour, this is widely used as a thickening agent and gives lift to baked goods.
Oat flour Finely ground and light, this is excellent for baking. Make sure the flour is from certified gluten-free oats—oats are commonly crosscontaminated.
Tapioca A good thickening agent (similar to arrowroot). When finely ground, this lends a smooth, chewy quality.
Potato flour Thanks to Abby Luby for her contributions to this article. Other sources of information include The Celiac Disease Foundation; The Celiac Support Association; the Cleveland Clinic Center for Continuing Education; Gastroenterology; The Lancet; MayoClinic. org; and the National Foundation for Celiac Awareness.
Teff
Dense and smooth, with a pronounced flavor.
This grain comes from grass. Its flour has a slightly gelatinous quality, which mimics gluten’s binding abilities in an array of dishes.
Potato starch Like corn starch, this lightens flour blends for baking.
bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
69
Carley Hughes opened her bakery, Ella’s Bellas, after realizing that gluten triggered painful migraines. “I call this place a bakery with an identity crisis,” Hughes says of the gluten-free shop she opened in Beacon in 2011. She started by offering coffee, some baked goods and a couple of places to sit, but the eatery became so popular that she had to expand or explode. Now, patrons have their choice of a few more seats (including a patio) and a wide selection of gluten-free soups and sandwiches, cookies, muffins, cupcakes and pies. The number of gluten-free flours was limited even four short years ago, but the market has since met the demand for more diverse options. “We use about 25 different flours that we blend—such as a mix of sweet rice and organic rice flours, which gives us a smoother flour to work with,” Hughes says, stressing, “What’s important is not to compromise the texture.”
QUICHE WITH SWISS CHARD & RICOTTA CARLEY HUGHES, ELLA’S BELLAS Ingredients ½ cup buttermilk (Hawthorne Farms or Kate’s of Maine suggested) ½ cup whole milk (Hudson Valley Fresh suggested) 1 cup heavy cream (Hudson Valley Fresh suggested) 4 large eggs (Feather Ridge Farms suggested) pinch of salt dash of freshly grated nutmeg medium to large bundle of local Swiss chard ¼ to ½ cup ricotta (Acorn Hill suggested) extra-virgin olive oil ½ teaspoon salt fresh lemon juice freshly ground pepper 9-inch pie shell, parbaked for 5 minutes at 350° F Method Preheat oven to 325° F. 1. Rinse chard and dry well. Trim ends and discard. Roughly chop chard stems and greens. Sauté with olive oil until greens have just begun to wilt. Remove from heat and toss with salt and a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. Spread flat to stop cooking and set aside. 2. While chard is cooling, prepare the quiche batter: Mix the buttermilk, milk and cream in a large measuring cup. Whisk the eggs in a medium bowl, then whisk the milk cream mixture into the eggs. Add salt and nutmeg. 3. Line the bottom of pie shell with ricotta. Top ricotta with sautéed chard. Pour the quiche mixture over chard and ricotta. Sprinkle with pepper. Bake for 40 minutes, or until quiche is golden and custard is set. Allow quiche to sit for 10 minutes before cutting and serving.
ALL-PURPOSE PIE DOUGH Ingredients 1 cup sorghum flour ½ cup minus 1 tablespoon cornstarch ½ cup amaranth flour 1/3 cup rice flour 1 teaspoon salt 1 pinch sugar ¼ teaspoon xanthan gum 8 ounces (2 sticks) cold unsalted butter 2 ounces (½ stick) cold salted butter 1 large egg and 1 yolk, whisked together 3 to 4 tablespoons ice water 2 pieces of parchment paper (for rolling out the dough) Makes a single 9-inch pie shell. Double recipe if 2 shells are required. Method 1. Mix flours, salt, sugar and xanthan gum together in food processor. Pulse to combine. Working quickly, pulse the butter with the flour mixture until it reaches the size of a small pea. Add eggs and continue to pulse. Add ice water 1 tablespoon at a time. Check the dough between each tablespoon. You are looking for it to hold together well enough to form into a ball. Take care not to make the dough too wet; the resulting crust will be tough instead of flaky. Turn the dough onto a piece of parchment and form it into a ball. Cover in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. 2. To roll out dough: Place the ball of dough between 2 parchment sheets and roll to desired thickness. Flip the dough and rearrange the parchment often so it doesn’t stick. A small amount of cornstarch can be used to dust the dough if it is too wet and sticks to the parchment. Press into 9-inch pie plate, then fill and bake according to recipe. (For quiches, parbake for 5 minutes at 350° F before using.) This pie dough also works wonderfully with sweet pie fillings, or as a base for pot pies.
Ella’s Bellas, 418 Main St, Beacon; (845) 765-8502
bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb 70
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
photo this page : meredith heuer
CRABCAKES TOM COSTELLO, THYME Ingredients 1 pound lump crabmeat 1 ½ garlic cloves, diced ½ small red bell pepper, diced ½ small green bell pepper, diced ½ small orange bell pepper, diced 1 small shallot, diced 1 small sweet Vidalia onion, diced canola oil for sautéing 1/3 cup Steadfast Sorghum Pale Ale (gluten-free beer) ½ cup gluten-free breadcrumbs, plus more to coat 4 large eggs ½ cup mayonnaise 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon Old Bay seasoning 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon onion powder gluten-free flour for breading (Bob’s Red Mill is suggested) salt and pepper to taste serves 4
Method 1. Clean the crabmeat, making sure to remove any small bits of shell. 2. Sweat garlic, peppers, shallot and onion in canola oil in a sauté pan for about 6 minutes over medium heat. 3. Combine the breadcrumbs with the pale ale to moisten. 4. Add crabmeat, garlic, peppers, shallot, onion, 1 egg, mayonnaise, mustard, Old Bay seasoning, garlic powder and onion powder, and combine gently with a spatula. 5. Form crabcakes. 6. Place the flour in a bowl and add salt and pepper to taste. In another bowl, beat the 3 remaining eggs. To a shallow dish, add breadcrumbs. Dust each crabcake lightly with flour, dip in the eggs, then gently roll in breadcrumbs to coat. 7. Add canola oil to a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Working in batches, fry crabcakes until golden brown on each side.
Tom Costello, owner and executive chef of Thyme, in Yorktown Heights, made some major changes in his menu after he was diagnosed with celiac disease: He removed all the gluten-containing flour from his kitchen, experimented with different gluten-free products and modified cooking practices in the kitchen. Since these changes, Thyme has seen an increasing number of diners with varying degrees of gluten intolerance. “The big challenge was engineering recipes that typically take flour, like crabcakes and eggplant parmesan,” he says. “Now I use gluten-free flours and make sure the fryer doesn’t get contaminated.” Thyme Restaurant, 3605 Crompond Rd, Yorktown Heights; (914) 788-8700
bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
photos supplied
june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
71
L IFE ST YL E
H O S P I TA L I TY
M A N AG EM ENT
LUNDEXPRESSIONS.COM
WALK R I D E DINE
Kick back, relax and sample the best of the Hudson Valley
FRESH, LOCAL WATERFRONT DINING WALKING DISTANCE FROM WALKWAY OVER THE HUDSON & THE WALKWAY ELEVATOR
(845) 232-5783 PKICEHOUSE.COM 1 MAIN STREET • POUGHKEEPSIE, NY
72
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
47 West Main St., Goshen, NY (845) 360-5253 | craft47.com
H AN
A L ITTL E B IT O F NEW ENGLAND IN TH E H U D S O N VA L L EY
HUDSON’S RIBS & FISH 1099 Route 9, Fishkill, NY 845-297-5002 hudsonsribsandfish.com
ISTORIC LANDMARK
Lunch · Dinner · Sunday Brunch Overnight Accommodations 2 Main Street, Cold Spring, NY 845-265-9355 | hudsonhouseinn.com
When your business succeeds, we all succeed. At M&T Bank, we understand the importance of building long-term relationships with our customers and communities. It’s what we’ve been doing for more than 155 years. It’s why we support our neighborhoods and why we keep banking decisions local. See the difference our personal, local and long-term commitment can make. Stop by your neighborhood branch today.
mtb.com ©2015 M&T Bank. Member FDIC.
june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
73
hvrw house ad vt70_Layout 1 5/20/15 3:26 PM Page 1
250,000 people. Two weeks. One valley.
Register your restaurant or become a sponsor of the most anticipated culinary event in the Hudson Valley. HUDSON VALLEY RESTAURANT WEEK NOVEMBER 2–15, 2015 HudsonValleyRestaurantWeek.com (845) 765-2600 Presented by The Valley Table
Authentic Swiss Cuisine Seasonal Fare
Photo Credit: Meredith Heuer
june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
75
INDEX TO ADVERTISERS
PAGE 49 Ace Endico / aceendico.com 10 Adams Fairacre Farms / adamsfarms.com 62 Al Fresco / 845.869.3600 11 Aroma Osteria / 845.298.6790 / aromaosteriarestaurant.com 84 Barb’s Butchery / 845.831.8050 / barbsbutchery.com 24 Beacon Natural Market / 845.838.1288 / beaconnaturalmarket.com 38 Beacon Pantry / 845.440.8923 / beaconpantry.com 23 Beacon Riverfest / beaconriverfest.org 37 Bluestone Bistro / 845.462.1100 / bluestonebistrony.com 2 Brasserie 292 / 845.473.0292 / brasserie292.com 80 Broken Bow Brewery / 914.268.0900 / brokenbowbrewery.com 3 Brother’s Trattoria / 845.838.3300 / brotherstrattoria.com 66 Buttermilk Falls Inn & Spa / 845.795.1310 / buttermilkfallsinn.com 75 Café Amarcord / 845.440.0050 / cafeamarcord.com 84 Café Mio / 845.255.4949 / miogardiner.com 75 Canterbury Brook Inn / 845.534.9658 / canterburybrookinn.com 37 Carolina House / 518.758.1669 / carolinahouserestaurant.com 81 Cathryn’s Tuscan Grill / 845.265.5582 / tuscangrill.com 23 Clock Tower Grill / 845.582.0574 / clocktowergrill.com 54 Coach Farm / 518.398.5325 / coachfarm.com C4, 61 Cosimo’s / cosimosrestaurantgroup.com 72 Craft 47 / 845.360.5253 / craft47.com 14 Crave Restaurant & Lounge / 845.452.3501 / craverestaurantandlounge.com 59 Crown Maple at Madava Farms / crownmaple.com 13 Culinary Institute of America / 845.471.6608 / ciarestaurants.com C3 Daily Planet Diner / 845.452.0110 / dailyplanetdiner.com 72 Dennings Point Distillery / denningspointdistillery.com 75 Dish Bistro & Wine Bar / 845.621.3474 / dishmahopac.com 75 Ella’s Bellas / 845.765.8502 / ellasbellasbeacon.com 3 Ethan Allen / 845.565.6000 / ethanallen.com 85 Fairview Wine & Spirits / 518.828.0934 / fairview-wines.com 57 Fishkill Farms / 845.897.4377 / fishkillfarms.com 23 Fresh Company / 845.424.8204 / freshcompany.net 60 Frogmore Tavern / 845.802.0883 / frogmoretavern.com 38 Garrison, The / 845.424.3604 / thegarrison.com 86 Gino’s Restaurant / 845.297.8061 / ginoswappingers.com 57 Gossett’s Farmers’ Market / 914.763.3001 / gossettbrothersnursery.com 49 Gourmet to Go / 845.677.5400 / gourmettogony.com 57 Hahn Farm / 845.266.3680 7 Half Moon / 914.693.4130 / halfmoonhudson.com C2 Harvest on Hudson / 914.478.2800 / harvesthudson.com 53 Hawthorne Valley Farm / 518.672.7500 / hawthornevalleyfarm.org 2 HealthQuest / 800.421.1220 / health-quest.org 57 Hemlock Hill / 914.737.2810 / hemlockhillfarm.com 13 Hop, The / 845.440.8676 / thehopbeacon.com 73 Hudson House River Inn / 845.265.9355 / hudsonhouseinn.com 73 Hudson’s Ribs & Fish / 845.297.5002 / hudsonsribsandfish.com 87 Hudson Street Cafe / 845.534.2450 / hudsonstreetcafe.com 55 Hudson Valley Fresh / hudsonvalleyfresh.com 56 Hudson Valley Sausage Company / 845.691.9312 37 Hyde Park Brewing Company / 845.229.8277 / hydeparkbrewing.com 11 Il Barilotto / 845.897.4300 / ilbarilottorestaurant.com 24 Il Portico / 845.365.2100 / ilportico.com 4 Irving Farm Coffee Roasters / irvingfarm.com 85 J&J Gourmet / 845.758.9030 / jandjgourmet.com 59 Jones Farm / 845.534.4445 / jonesfarminc.com 24 Joseph’s Steakhouse / 845.473.2333 / josephs-steakhouse.com 12 Leo’s Ristorante & Bar / leospizzeria.com 57 Lowland Farm / 212.867.6376 / lowlandfarm.com 73 M&T Bank / mtb.com
76
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
PAGE 49 Main Course / 845.255.2600 / maincoursecatering.com 73 Manhattan Beer Distributors / 718.292.9300 / manhattanbeer.com 87 Maybelle’s / maybellesny.com 56 McEnroe Farm Market / 518.789.4191 / mcenroeorganicfarm.com 58 Meadowland Farm / 845.554.6142 / meadowlandfarmny.com 12 Mid Valley Wine & Liquor / 845.562.1070 / midvalleywine.com 72 Mill Restaurant & Bar, The / 845.204.9083 / millpk.com 77 Mill House Brewing Company / 845.485.BREW / millhousebrewing.com 61 Mother Earth’s / motherearthstorehouse.com 2 N&S Supply / nssupply.com 87 New Paltz Wine & Spirits / 845.255.8528 / newpaltzwine.com 51 Nina / 845.344.6800 / nina-restaurant.com 50 Northern Dutchess Realty / 845.876.8588 / northerndutchessrealty.com 59 Nostrano Vineyards / 845.795.5473 / nostranovineyards.com 59 Orange County Distillery / 845.651.2929 / orangecountydistillery.com C3 Palace Diner / 845.473.1576 / thepalacediner.com 60 Pamal Broadcasting / pamal.com 53 Peekskill Farmers’ Market / 914.737.2780 / peekskillfarmersmarket.com 77 Piccola Trattoria / 914.674.8427 / piccolany.com 54 Pine Bush Farmers’ Market / pinebushfarmersmarket.com 86 Porco Cafe Fresh / 845.337.3487 72 Poughkeepsie Ice House / 845.232.5783 / pkicehouse.com 86 Puccini Ristorante / 845.876.3055 / puccinirhinebeck.com 57 Quattro’s Poultry Farm & Market / 845.635.2018 79 Red Barn Produce / 845.691.7428 C3 Red Line Diner / 845.765.8401 / dineatredline.com 82 Restaurant 1915 / 845.786.2731 x.1915 55 Rhinebeck Farmers’ Market / rhinebeckfarmersmarket.com 78 RiverMarket Bar & Kitchen / 914.631.3100 / rivermarketbarandkitchen.com 14 Riverview Restaurant / 845.265.4778 / riverdining.com 24 Roundhouse, The / 845.765.8369 87 Samaki, Inc. / 845.858.1012 / samakismokedfish.com 54 Saunderskill Farms / 845.626.CORN / saunderskill.com 80 Schatzi’s Pub & Bier Garden / 845.454.1179 / schatzispubpk.com 04 Shawangunk Wine Trail / gunkswine.com 50 Smoky Rock BBQ / 845.876.5232 / smokyrockbbq.com 87 Sour Kraut / 845.358.3122 / sour-kraut.com 58 Sprout Creek Farm / 845.485.8438 / sproutcreekfarm.org 51 Storm King Art Center / 845.534.3115 / stormking.org 55 Stoutridge Vineyard / 845.236.7620 / stoutridge.com 43 Sullivan County Visitors Association / 800.882.CATS / scva.net 51 Sunflower Natural Foods Market / 845.679.5361 / sunflowernatural.com C3 Table Talk Diner / 845.849.2839 / tabletalkdiner.com 59 TasteNY Store at Todd Hill / 845.849.0247 83 Terrapin Restaurant / 845.876.3330 / terrapinrestaurant.com 58 Thompson-Finch Farm / 518.329.7578 / thompsonfinch.com 49 Thyme / 914.788.8700 / thymerestaurant.net 38 Tuthill House at the Mill / 845.255.4151 / tuthillhouse.com 85 Vanderbilt House / 518.672.9993 / v anderbilt-house.com 84 Village Tea Room / 845.255.3434 / thevillagetearoom.com 09, 37 Warren Kitchen & Cutlery / 845.876.6208 / warrenkitchentools.com 51 Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery / wvwinery.com 56 Weed Orchards & Winery / 845.236.2684 / thewineryatweedorchards.com 50 West Main Bar & Kitchen / 845.297.0510 / westmainkitchenandbar.com 38 Westchester County Tourism / 800.833.9282 / westchestertourism.com 59 Whitecliff Vineyard / 845.255.4613 / whitecliffwine.com 50 Wildfire Grill / 845.457.3770 81 Would, The / 845.691.9883 / thewould.com 66 Xaviar’s at Piermont / 845.359.7007 / xaviars.com 01 Yankee, The / theyankeebbq.com
H OUSE L L I M BREWING
E S T.
COMPANY
2013
CELEBRATING HUDSON VALLEY FOOD, FARMS, AND BEER.
P. 845.485-BREW
289 Mill Street, Poughkeepsie www.MillHouseBrewing.com
One of the Hudson Valley’s most notable authentic Italian restaurants. Seasonal Menu • Homemade Pasta • Exceptional Wines SUNDAY 11:30am-10:00pm MONDAY CLOSED TUES - THURS 11:30am-10:00pm FRI & SAT 11:30am-11:00pm 41 Cedar Street Dobbs Ferry 914-674-8427 piccolany.com
june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
77
DIRECTORY
ART
NEWBURGH ART SUPPLY 5 Grand St, Newburgh (845) 561-5552; newburghartsupply.com Mon–Thu 10–6; Fri 11–7; Sat 10–6 (last Saturdays open until 8); closed Sun. See, feel and experience quality art materials in one of Newburgh’s restored landmarks in the heart of the Washington Market neighborhood. Your local source for essential creative supplies for the student, professional and enthusiast. Join us for the fifth annual Newburgh Open Studios, Sept. 26 and 27! newburghopenstudios.org B A K E R I E S
THE ALTERNATIVE BAKER 407 Main St, Rosendale (845) 658-3355; lemoncakes.com Open 7am Thu–Mon; closed Tue & Wed Handmade all-butter small-batch baked goods has been our standard and promise for twenty years employing only scratch-baked methods (no mixes or anything not raised by farmers). We also offer gluten-free and other allergy-friendly options, plus made-to-order
78
the valley table
june
–
august
sandwiches for breakfast, lunch or a light supper. An array of coffee and tea, artisanal drinks, plus our award-winning Belgian hot chocolate. On offer are Harney & Sons teas and the valley’s best coffee from JB Peel—both hot and iced. Special-occasion cakes made to order and seasonal dessert items change through the year. Also offering unique wedding cakes for a lifetime’s treasure. All “worth a detour,” says The New York Times. Truly “Where Taste is Everything!” Ella’s Bellas 418–420 Main St, Beacon (845) 765-8502 Mon & Wed 8–5; Thu–Sat 8–7; Sun 9–4; closed Tue Ella’s Bellas believes that an indulgence should taste like an indulgence regardless of our dietary restrictions. We specialize in gluten-free products, but we promise you won’t know the difference.
Fri & Sat 1–10; Sun 1–5 Growler fill hours: Mon & Tues 1–5; Wed, Thu & Sun 1–8; Fri & Sat 1–10 Convenient to the Crestwood MetroNorth train station, this brewery produces a rich Broken Heart Stout, a light Marbledale American Pale Ale (made with American-grown hops), and a Broken Auger Lager. Visit the brewery for tastings, pints and growlers; many Broken Bow beers are on tap at area restaurants. Tours Fridays and Saturdays at 3 and 6. Captain Lawrence Brewing Co. 444 Saw Mill River Rd, Elmsford (914) 741-2337; captainlawrencebrewing.com Tasting room hours: Wed–Fri 4–8; Sat & Sun noon–5; closed Mon & Tue An award-winning craft brewery. The tasting room boasts a 30-foot-long oak bar and two 12-tap towers for sampling and filling growlers.
B R E W E R I E S
Broken Bow Brewery 173 Marbledale Rd, Tuckahoe (914) 268-0900; brokenbowbrewery.com Tasting room hours: Wed & Thu 5–8;
2015
Hyde Park Brewing Co. 4076 Albany Post Rd, Hyde Park (845) 229-8277; hydeparkbrewing.com Mon & Tue 4–10; Wed & Thu 11–10; Fri & Sat 11–midnight; Sun 11–9
C A T E R I N G
Fresh Company PO Box 187, Garrison (845) 424-8204; freshcompany.net At our kitchen one hour north of Manhattan in the Hudson Highlands, we gather great local and imported ingredients for events of all sizes and pocketbooks, from grand affairs to drop-off parties. True to our name, we emphasize the freshest, finest ingredients, because great food is the spark that ignites a convivial gathering. Executive chef Shelley Boris draws inspiration from cooking styles from around the world. Her distinct, warm style is reflected in meals that encourage hospitality and leisure at the table, the elemental enjoyment of eating and drinking well. Gourmet to Go (845) 677-5400; gourmettogony.com Since 1992, a full-service off-premise caterer offering a wide range of locations. Our fine reputation is based on years of consistency and superb service. We specialize in weddings, corporate events, cocktail parties,
holiday parties, outdoor barbecues and even boxed lunches. Creative cuisine, exceptional presentation and professional service, taking every event from start to finish flawlessly. J&J Gourmet 1 E Market St, Red Hook (845) 758-9030; jandjgourmet.com Mon–Fri 7–5; Sat 8–4:30; Sun 9–4 Serving Red Hook, Rhinebeck, Poughkeepsie, Hyde Park and surrounding areas in Dutchess County, J&J offers high-quality and precise catering prepared with the freshest ingredients from local farmers and specialty food producers. Main Course 175 Main St, New Paltz (845) 255-2650; maincoursecatering.com Sensational food. Spectacular presentation. Impeccable service. Great locations. Innovative regional cuisine, created by our CIA-trained chefs, will delight the most discriminating palate. Our expert event planners have the necessary information and resources to orchestrate the perfect event and relieve you of all the cumbersome details. Unique sites include historic Hudson River mansions, quaint B&Bs and lush wineries. Terrapin Restaurant Catering & Events 6426 Montgomery St, Rhinebeck (845) 889-8831; terrapincatering.com Enjoy the same high-quality ingredients and service that you know at Terrapin
Restaurant anywhere in the Hudson Valley. Catering events of all types and sizes, Terrapin prepares custom menus for every event, using local, organic ingredients whenever possible. Contact Catering Director Hugh Piney.
Table Talk Diner 2521 C South Rd (Rt 9), Poughkeepsie (845) 849-2839; tabletalkdiner.com
800 feet above the Hudson, the course offers spectacular views of the Hudson Highlands. The woodsy terrain challenges golfers with rolling hills, elevation changes, and tough tee shots over deep ravines.
D I S T I L L E R I E S H O M E
C O F F E E
Irving Farm Coffee Roasters 23 Reagan Rd, Millerton (518) 789-3276; irvingfarm.com A quintessentially New York Company, at Irving Farm Coffee Roasters we know what the country means to the city— and vice versa. In 1999, Irving Farm established its farmhouse roastery in the town of Millerton. Now Irving Farm supplies carefully selected, handcrafted coffees to three cafes in the same metropolis, as well as our own smalltown coffee house in Millerton. D I N E R S
Daily Planet 1202 Rt 55, Lagrangeville (845) 452-0110; dailyplanetdiner.com
Dennings Point Distillery 10 N Chestnut St, Beacon denningspointdistillery.com Open Fri–Sun Denning’s Point Distillery crafts the finest artisanal spirits available including Viskill Vodka, Beacon American Whiskey and Denning’s White Rye Whiskey. We choose only the highest quality grains from New York state farms and strive to create classic spirits of unique character and depth in our unique, urban production space. Orange County Distillery 19B Maloney Ln, Goshen orangecountydistillery.com Thu–Sun noon–5; closed Mon–Wed A farm distillery focusing on quality not quantity, producing true farm-tobottle spirits, from growing to distilling to bottling. G O L F
Palace Diner 194 Washington St, Poughkeepsie (845) 473-1576; thepalacediner.com Red Line Diner 588 Rt 9, Fishkill (845) 765-8401; dineatredline.com
Garrison Golf Club 2015 Rt 9, Garrison (845) 424-4747; thegarrison.com/golf Daily, Apr–Nov 6:30–dusk. The Garrison Golf Club is an 18-hole, par 72 championship golf course. Perched
Ethan Allen Rt 32, 94 North Plank Rd, Newburgh (845) 565-6000; ethanallen.com Mon–Fri 9–5:30; Sat 10–5:30; Sun noon–5. The Bells have been offering the finest in-home furnishings since 1955, and have expanded their store to offer the new, up-to-date Ethan Allen look, featuring country, casual, contemporary, and traditional furniture and accessories. Their staff offers complimentary interior design service and in-home house calls. K I T C H E N
Warren Kitchen & Cutlery 6934 Rt 9, Rhinebeck (845) 876-6208; warrenkitchentools.com Mon–Sat 9:30–5:30; Sun 11–4:30 The Hudson Valley’s complete source for professional kitchen knives and tools, commercial quality cookware, bakeware, pocketknives and woodcarving tools. We stock the largest selection of name-brand cutlery in the region at prices well below retail. Knife sets, knife blocks and carving boards. Professional knife sharpening while you wait.
Wholesale Fruit & Produce
Where quality rules, local comes first, and taste matters 217 UPPER NORTH ROAD, HIGHLAND
•
845.691.7428
•
june
–
FAX 845.691.7468 august
2015
valleytable . com
79
M A R K E T S
Adams Fairacre Farms 1560 Ulster Ave, Kingston (845) 336-6300 1240 Rt 300, Newburgh (845) 569-0303 765 Dutchess Tnpk, Poughkeepsie (845) 454-4330 160 Old Post Rd, Wappinger (845) 632-9955 adamsfarms.com Open daily A family-owned farm market/garden center. A cornucopia of fresh produce, meats, fish, deli, and prepared foods. Featuring Hudson Valley products, a great selection of the best local cheese, meat, produce and more. Barb’s Butchery 69 Spring St, Beacon (845) 831-8050; barbsbutchery.com Tue–Fri 11–7:30; Sat 10–6; lunch Tue– Sat; closed Sun & Mon Your new neighborhood butcher shop providing local, Hudson Valley–raised meat and poultry. Practicing nose-to-tail butchery, we are proud to offer fresh and smoked meats, specialty cuts, charcuterie, house-made stocks, craft bacon and more. Beacon Pantry 267 Main St, Beacon (845) 440-8923; beaconpantry.com Mon–Sat 7–8; Sun 7–6 Providing artisan food and artisan ser-
15
vice to Beacon and beyond, Beacon Pantry features more than 50 varieties of cut-to-order domestic and imported cheese and charcuterie. Large selection of local, Italian and hard-to-find French pantry items, grass-fed local meats and dairy. Stumptown coffee, unique chocolates, fine pastries and desserts. Serving European-style sandwiches and cheese plates. Catering for any size event.
Main Course 175 Main St, New Paltz (845) 255-2600; maincoursecatering.com Tue–Thu, Sat 11–9; Fri 11–10; Sun 9–9 Try something new. Bruce Kazan, award-winning caterer and restaurateur, opens a new sustainable takeaway market, featuring the bounty of the Hudson Valley in easy, delicious meals to eat in or take away.
Crown Maple at Madava Farms 47 McCourt Rd, Dover Plains (845) 877-0640; crownmaple.com Sat & Sun 11–5 Madava Farms is home to sustainably made Crown Maple maple syrup. Crown Maple has proved versatile, with uses ranging from complementing your morning pancakes to adding a distinct taste in culinary masterpieces. Open most weekends for tours, tastings and special events.
McEnroe Farm Market 194 Coleman Station Rd, Millerton (518) 789-3252; mcenroeorganicfarm.com Mon–Thu, Sat 9–6; Fri & Sun 9–7
Hudson Valley Sausage Company 85 Vineyard Ave, Highland (845) 691-9312 Fri noon–6; Sat 9–5; Sun 10–2 All meats processed in-house. Local pork, fresh-cut or dry-aged beef, smoked and fresh hams, cured and smoked meats, charcuterie. Many varieties of Italian and German sausage. Sausage-making classes. Traditional and BBQ catering for all occasions. Wild game processing. Soon to be a USDA facility.
TasteNY Store at Todd Hill Taconic State Pkwy, Lagrange Located 10 miles north of I-84 and 1 mile south of Rt 55 (845) 849-0247; ccedutchess.org Open Mon, Wed, Thu, Sat 10–7; Fri 10–8; Sun 11–7; closed Tue An asset along the Taconic State Parkway, find a vast array of foods and products grown or made in the Hudson Valley. Outdoor farmers’ market open Jun–Oct: Fri 3–7, Sun 2–6. N A T U R A L F O O D S
Beacon Natural Market 348 Main St, Beacon (845) 838-1288; beaconnaturalmarket.com Mon–Sat 9–7; Sun 10–5 Lighting the way for a healthier world. Featuring organic prepared foods, deli
and juice bar, organic and regional produce, meats and cheeses. Open since 2005, proprietors L.T. and Kitty Sherpa are dedicated to serving the Hudson Valley with a complete selection of products that are good for you and good for the planet, including an extensive alternative health department. Nutritionist on staff. Catering available. Mother Earth’s 300 Kings Mall Ct, Kingston (845) 336-5541 249 Main St, Saugerties (845) 246-9614 1955 South Rd, Poughkeepsie (845) 296-1069 motherearthstorehouse.com Open daily Offering the finest natural foods, bulk spices, herbs, vitamins, supplements and organic produce. The valley’s best organic, hot and cold takeout at our Kingston and Poughkeepsie locations. Sunflower Natural Market 75 Mill Hill Rd, Woodstock (845) 679-5361; sunflowernatural.com natural@hvc.rr.com Mon–Fri 8–9; Sat 9–9; Sun 10–7 The area’s most complete natural foods market, featuring certified organic produce, organic milk, cheeses and eggs, a wide range of bulk organic grains and nuts, non-irradiated herbs and spices, plus vitamins, homeopathic and body care products.
ROTATING GERMAN & CRAFT BEER TAPS
ALONG WITH GERMAN AND AMERICAN INSPIRED PUB FOOD
Brewed & Canned Tuckahoe New York
If It Ain’t Broken, Don’t Drink It SCHATZI’S PUB & BIER GARDEN
202 Main Street, Poughkeepsie · 845-454-1179 · schatzispubpk.com 80
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
www.BrokenBowBrewery.com 173 Marbledale Rd. Tuckahoe, NY 10707
P A S T A
La Bella Pasta 906 Rt 28, Kingston (845) 331-9130; lbpasta.com Mon–Fri 10–6; Sat 11–3; closed Sun Fresh pasta made locally using only the finest ingredients. Large variety of ravioli (including vegan), tortellini, pastas and sauces. We deliver our product to fine restaurants, gourmet shops and caterers throughout the Hudson Valley. Call for product list and samples. Located on Rt. 28 West between Kingston and Woodstock. REAL ESTATE
Northern Dutchess Realty 6423 Montgomery St, Rhinebeck (845) 876-8588; northerndutchessrealty.com Serving Dutchess and Columbia counties for all your real estate needs. With the right help, buying or selling a country property can be a pleasure. R E S T A U R A N T S
AL FRESCO 1036 Main St, Fishkill (845) 896-3600 Mon–Sat 11–10; Sun 4–10 There are many good Italian restaurants in the Hudson Valley. Al Fresco stands out for authentic Italian with healthy and traditional family recipes using fresh meat, seafood and produce from local farmers.
Another Fork in the Road 1215 Rt 199, Milan (845) 758-6676; anotherforkintheroadmilan.wordpress.com Breakfast 9–3; lunch 11–3; dinner 5–9 Eat something you have never had before or have a burger. Craft beers and wines. Aroma Osteria 114 Old Post Rd, Wappingers Falls (845) 298-6790; aromaosteriarestaurant.com Lunch Tue–Sat; dinner Tue–Sun; closed Mon Voted Best Italian Restaurant by Hudson Valley magazine; Poughkeepsie Journal awards four stars. A romantic, relaxed atmosphere with an elegant cocktail bar in a beautiful setting. Here, rustic Italian cuisine is served with a unique and extensive selection of Italian wines (many available by the glass). Catering for all occasions available on or off premises. Bluestone Bistro 10 IBM Rd, Poughkeepsie (845) 462-1100 Mon–Thu 11–9; Fri & Sat 11–10; Sun 4–9 Bluestone Bistro serves an eclectic menu in a casual and friendly atmosphere. Our signature Brick Oven Mac & Cheese and Chicken Pot Pie are sure to warm the senses. The menu features local ingredients to create the freshest seasonal fare. Our affordable wine list provides an amazing value, and our craft beer selection and specialty cocktails are sure to please.
Bluestone’s Proprietor is a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America and is also the Proprietor of Simply Gourmet, which specializes in customized off-site catering. Brasserie 292 292–294 Main St, Poughkeepsie (845) 473-0292; brasserie292.com Mon–Thu 11–9:30; Fri 11–10:30; Sat 2–10:30; Sun 11–9 A modern American bistro offering timeless brasserie fare, a well-stocked bar and banquet seating, amid glass, copper and tile. Offerings range from raw bar to rib eye, soup to tarte Tatin. Brother’s Trattoria 465 Main St, Beacon (845) 838-3300; brotherstrattoria.com Lunch daily 11–3; dinner daily 4–10 Tuscan charm and Northern Italian cuisine in the heart of Beacon’s bustling Main Street. Cafe Amarcord 276 Main St, Beacon (845) 440-0050; cafeamarcord.com Tue–Thu noon–10; Fri & Sat noon–11; Sun noon–9; closed Mon Creative New American cuisine with Italian undertones, served in a warm atmosphere. Enjoy an artisanal cocktail at the onyx bar before having dinner in the bistro-style dining room or on our Main Street terrace. Bring colleagues for a casual lunch, or a date for a romantic night out.
Cafe Mio 2356 Rt 44/55, Gardiner (845) 765-8502; miogardiner.com Breakfast & lunch Wed–Sun 8:30–4:30 A popular, casual café overlooking the Shawangunk Mountains. We are proud to offer the freshest local fare, drawing from our many surrounding farms—something that is at the core of our food philosophy. A varied selection of wines and craft beers. Canterbury Brook Inn 331 Main St, Cornwall (845) 534-9658; canterburybrookinn.com Tue–Thu 5–9; Fri & Sat 5–9:30 Hosts Hans and Kim Baumann offer fine Swiss continental cuisine featuring veal, duck, chicken, Schnitzel, pasta, filet mignon, fresh fish and much more. Enjoy a fabulous dessert while sipping a frothing cappuccino or espresso. We specialize in both on- and off-premise catering. Outdoor brookside dining. Reservations suggested. Carolina House 59 Broad St, Kinderhook (518) 758-1669; carolinahouserestaurant.com Lunch Mon–Fri 11:30–2:30; dinner Mon–Thu, Sun 5–9:30; Fri & Sat 5–10; Happy Hour Mon–Thu 3–6 An innovative mix of classic American favorites and multiethnic fare, freshly prepared and served in warm, friendly surroundings.
We host events in our beautiful garden pavilion
5
Fine Dining in Casual Elegance Dinner 5-close Tue-Sat Prix-fixe menu $24 Tue-Thur 120 North Road Highland, NY 12528 845.691.9883 | thewould.com
We do weddings! june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
81
Cathryn’s Tuscan Grill 91 Main St, Cold Spring (845) 265-5582; tuscangrill.com Daily noon–10:30; brunch Sun; Flight Night Tue 7–9:30 Follow the red brick walk off Main Street through a landscaped garden into a romantic dining scene. Choose from an array of Northern Italian dishes such as pulled rabbit with fresh pappardelle pasta, seedless grapes and grappa sauce; and grilled partridge with blackberries, pearl onions, and pancetta with a red wine sauce. Reasonably priced wines. Small private party room is a memorable, festive Tuscan accent. Clock Tower Grill Kitchen & Bar 512 Clock Tower Dr, Brewster (845) 582-0574; clocktowergrill.com Lunch Tue–Fri; dinner Tue–Sun noon–9 Set in a renovated barn, the atmosphere is casual yet sophisticated; the menu “rustic American” with many ingredients drawn from area farms. Cosimo’s Restaurant Group Cosimo’s On Union 1217 Rt 300, Newburgh (845) 567-1556; fax (845) 567-9246 Cosimo’s Middletown 620 Rt 211 East, Middletown (845) 692-3242 Cosimo’s Poughkeepsie 120 Delafield St, Poughkeepsie (845) 485-7172 Cosimo’s Woodbury Rt 32, Central Valley (845) 928-5222 cosimosrestaurantgroup.com Lunch & dinner daily Casual trattoria-style dining with some of the world’s best wines. Old-style Italian cuisine with a New World twist. Daily specials, pasta, fish and meat dishes. Distinctive cocktail lounges, a unique wine cellar for private dinner parties and beautiful catering facilities. Craft 47 47 W. Main St, Goshen (845) 360-5253; craft47.com Tue–Thu noon–10; Fri, Sat noon– midnight; Sun noon–10; closed Mon Kick back, relax and sample the best of the Hudson Valley at Craft 47. We offer small-plate American tapas, craft wine and 12 craft beers on tap, with even more in the cooler. Crave Restaurant & Lounge 129 Washington St, Poughkeepsie (845) 452-3501; craverestaurantandlounge.com Dinner Wed–Sat 4–10; Sun 11:30–9; closed Mon & Tue Chef Ed Kowalski serves contemporary food with modern twists in a romantic and intimate setting located directly under the Walkway Over The Hudson. The Culinary Institute of America 1946 Campus Dr (off Rt 9), Hyde Park (845) 471-6608; ciachef.edu/restaurants The world’s premier culinary college
82
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
offers exceptional global cuisine in its award-winning restaurants: American Bounty, which celebrates the seasons and products of the Hudson Valley; The Bocuse Restaurant, which reimagines classic French cuisine using modern techniques; RistoranteCaterina de’ Medici, which features authentic regional Italian dishes; and the Al Forno Trattoria, a casual stop for rustic dishes. The Apple Pie Bakery Café offers sumptuous baked goods and café fare. Dish Bistro & Wine Bar 947 South Lake Blvd, Mahopac (845) 621-3474; dishmahopac.com Lunch Tue–Sat 11:30–4; dinner Mon-Sat 5–10 Chef Peter A. Milano adds his own personal flare to both classic and modern inspired cuisine with dishes focused on local seasonal produce and local high quality ingredients. With a special menu that changes daily, guests delight in a unique experience every time they dine. Frida’s Bakery & Cafe 26 Main St, Milton (845) 795-5550; fridasbakeryny.com Daily 7–7 An extension of Buttermilk Falls Inn & Spa, Frida’s offers artisan breads, pastries and coffees as well as housemade breakfast and lunch options. Frogmore Tavern 63 North Front St, Kingston (845) 802-0883 Sun 11–9; Mon–Thu noon–10; Fri & Sat noon–11 or later We are a tavern nestled in the neighborhood of uptown Kingston specializing in gastropub fare. Our focus is on house-smoked/cured meats such as pastrami, duck bacon, andouille and hunters sausage. We pour 12 craft beers with constant rotation, offer fresh cocktails with seasonal ingredients and feature a late-night menu Friday and Saturday. Gino’s Restaurant 1671 Rt 9, Wappingers Falls (845) 297-8061; ginoswappingers.com Tue–Thu 11:30–9; Fri & Sat 11:30–10; Sun 1–9; closed Mon Serving the Hudson Valley since 1984. Traditional southern Italian cuisine in a casual environment. Only the freshest ingredients used to prepare your favorite veal, chicken, seafood and pasta dishes. Catering on- and off-premise. Half Moon 1 High St, Dobbs Ferry (914) 693-4130; harvest2000.com Lunch Mon–Fri 11:45–3; dinner Mon– Thu 5:30–10, Fri 5:30–11, Sat 5–11, Sun 4–9; brunch Sun 11:45–2:30 Casual American restaurant on the Hudson River with panoramic views extending to Manhattan. The diverse menu offers American favorites— fresh Montauk seafood, ceviche, raw bar and classic hamburgers—with imaginative flair.
Harvest on Hudson 1 River St, Hastings-on-Hudson (914) 478-2800; harvest2000.com Lunch Mon–Fri 11:45–2:30; dinner Mon–Thu 5:30–10, Fri 5:30– 11, Sat 5–11, Sun 4–9 Overlooking the Hudson River and Palisades, a magnificent Tuscan farmhouse is the perfect setting for inspired Mediterranean cuisine, with many ingredients picked from the on-site garden. Henry’s At Buttermilk Falls 220 North Rd, Milton (845) 795-1310; henrysatbuttermilk.com Lunch Fri & Sat; dinner Wed–Sun; Brunch Sun. Local comes alive at this bucolic Inn & Spa, where the main ingredients are sourced from local producers and purveyors. An inventive menu features a fresh selection of large and small plates from casual burger and fries to refined New American dishes. Enjoy a pre-dinner stroll through the organic gardens and orchards or a drink overlooking the Hudson River and sweeping lawns. Al fresco dining available. The Hop: Craft Beer & Artisanal Fare 458 Main St, Beacon (845) 440-8676; thehopbeacon.com Wed–Thu noon–9; Fri & Sat noon–11; Sun noon–8; closed Mon & Tue Share our love of finely crafted beers and passion for house-made charcuterie, local cheeses and seasonal fare. Come enjoy a meal with us and then take a look at the amazing beer selection and specialty food items we have available for retail. Seating at the Chef’s Table is also available by reservation. Hudson House River Inn 2 Main St, Cold Spring (845) 265-9355; hudsonhouseinn.com Lunch Wed–Sat 11:30–3:30; dinner Wed & Thu 5–9;dinner Fri & Sat 5–10; brunch Sun 11:30–3:30; dinner Sun 4:30–9 A historic 1832 landmark located directly on the Hudson River in Cold Spring, the Hudson House is the perfect place for a romantic dinner or a family/friend gathering. Specializes in dry-aged steaks and market-fresh fish as well as other delicious chef creations. Enjoy a fabulous Sunday brunch with the best bellinis in town. Hudson’s Ribs & Fish 1099 Rt 9, Fishkill (845) 297-5002; hudsonsribsandfish.com Mon–Thu 5–10; Fri 5–11; Sat 4–11; Sun 2–9 Established in 1989, Hudson’s is the premier steak and seafood restaurant in the Hudson Valley serving handcut steaks, fresh seafood, chicken, pasta and other chef specialties. Hot popovers with strawberry butter are a house specialty! Award-winning wine list and outrageous martini menu. Private party accommodations for groups up to 75 guests.
Hudson Street Café 237 Hudson St, Cornwall-on-Hudson (845) 534-2450; hudsonstreetcafe.com Mon–Fri 6–3; Sat 7–3; Sun 7–2 Good food served here. Breakfast includes housemade corn and oat bran pancakes, huevos rancheros and scones baked fresh every morning. Lunches include a turkey brie panini and housemade empanadas. Delicious dinners with comfort classics like Donna’s meatloaf, and buttermilk fried chicken, as well as seasonal specials. Custom catering.
restaurant | bistro | bar
Il Barilotto 1113 Main St, Fishkill (845) 897-4300; ilbarilottorestaurant.com Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat; closed Sun Blending the old with the new, Eduardo Lauria, chef-owner of Aroma Osteria, transformed an historic brick building in the heart of Fishkill to a trattoria and wine bar. The fare is Italian peasant with a contemporary flair. The selection of regional wines from Italy—available by the glass or flight—is extensive. Catering on- and off-premises. Il Portico 89 Main St, Tappan (845) 365-2100; ilportico.com Lunch Tue–Sun noon–2:30; dinner 5–9:30 Part of the historic hamlet of Tappan. Classic Italian fare served in a classy, relaxed atmosphere. Joseph’s Steakhouse 728 Violet Ave (Rt 9G), Hyde Park (845) 473-2333; josephs-steakhouse.com Mon–Thu 4–9; Fri & Sat noon–10; Sun 12-course brunch; Sun dinner 3–8 Located next to Val-Kill, Eleanor Roosevelt National Historic Site. The Steakhouse for dinner, The Tea Room for lunch and banquet room for dinner shows and private parties. Leo’s Ristorante Rt 9D, Wappingers Falls (845) 838-3446 22 Quaker Ave, Cornwall (845) 534-3446 1433 Rt 300, Newburgh (845) 564-3446 leospizzeria.com Mon–Sat 11–10; Sun 2–9 A family favorite since 1981, Leo’s offers traditional classic Italian dishes, pizza, hot/cold subs, pasta, veal, chicken and appetizers. Daily specials and catering for all occasions whether in our location or yours. Great food served in a comfortable and relaxed atmosphere. Maybelle’s 355 Main St, Catskill (518) 719-1800; maybellesny.com Breakfast and lunch Mon–Thu 9–3; dinner 6–10; closed Tue & Wed Sister restaurant to Another Fork in the Road in Milan. Stop in for casual New American cuisine in the heart of Catskill, NY.
From far-flung origins, the world’s most diverse flavors meet and mingle here, in this restaurant, at your table. From elements both historic and eclectic comes something surprising, fresh and dynamic: dishes to delight both body and soul.
local organic authentic lunch & dinner daily in rhinebeck 845-876-3330 terrapinrestaurant.com june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
83
Mexicali Blue 87 Main St, New Paltz (845) 255-5551 1571 Rt 9, Wappingers Falls (845) 298-8226 mexicali-blue.com Using fresh, natural ingredients, Mexicali Blue serves up delicious Southwestern and California-style cuisine in a fun, colorful setting. Tacos and burritos top the menu. Mexican beer and margaritas top the drinks list.
Nina 27 W. Main St, Middletown (845) 344-6800; nina-restaurant.com Lunch Mon–Sat 11:30–2:30; dinner Mon–Sun from 5; brunch Sun 9:30–2 New York City–trained chef Franz Brendle brings an elegant flair to classic American cuisine. Features include filet mignon Roquefort, shrimp asparagus risotto and seafood specials. Nice selection of wines in various price ranges. Friendly staff, cozy décor. Hearty Sun brunch.
The Mill 46 Vassar Rd, Poughkeepsie (845) 204-9083; millpk.com Executive chef and Hudson Valley native Mark Haslam features fresh seasonal and local artisanal foods. Our casual and upbeat atmosphere coupled with our knowledgeable staff, acoustic entertainment and cozy indoor and outdoor dining make us the destination that serves all of our guests the dining experience they deserve. Come say hello, make friends and join us for a fantastic meal!
Olive’s 118A Main St, Nyack (845) 358-3120; facebook.com/ olivesnyyack The oldest live music venue in Rockland featuring a vegan and vegetarian menu with classic American favorites. With 10 taps and 24 varieties of beer.
Mill House Brewing Company 289 Mill St, Poughkeepsie (845) 485-2739; millhousebrewing.com Lunch & dinner Mon, Wed–Sun; closed Tue Offers a warm, historic and visually appealing setting, with casual, yet professional service, food cooked from as close to the source as possible, and artfully crafted ales.
Piccola Trattoria 41 Cedar St, Dobbs Ferry (914) 674-8427; piccolany.com Tue–Thu 11:30–10; Fri & Sat 11:30– 11; Sun 11:30–10; closed Mon Family owned and operated since 1994, offers authentic Italian cuisine. Menu features homemade pastas including cannelloni, gnocchi and pappardelle. Porco Cafe Fresh 138 South Ave (Read Pl), Poughkeepsie (845) 337-3487; porcocafefresh.com Mon–Sat 11–9; closed Sun, except for private functions
Conveniently located off Route 9 exit and South Avenue, next to Vassar hospital. Off-street parking lot. Open for lunch and dinner. Continental cusine featuring steaks, chops and pasta. 300 bottles of wine on-site. Private party room available for up to 25. Poughkeepsie Ice House 1 Main St, Poughkeepsie (845) 232-5783; pkicehouse.com Sun–Wed 11:30–10; Thu–Sat til 11 The Poughkeepsie Ice House is the anchor for the Queen Bee City. The historic Hudson Valley waterfront brick building features old world charm and walking distance to the Poughkeepsie Train Station and the Walkway over the Hudson. Public boat docking and waterfront dining are available. The food is casually sophisticated with seasonal and local inspired menus. Puccini Ristorante 22 Garden St, Rhinebeck (845) 876-3055; puccinirhinebeck.com Lunch and dinner, Wed–Sat; brunch and dinner Sun; closed Mon and Tue Family owned and operated. Authentic regional Italian cuisine using local and fresh ingredients. Everything made to order. The only restaurant in Rhinebeck with private, outdoor garden seating. Queen City Bistro 206 Main St, Poughkeepsie (845) 337-4684; queencitybistro.com
Beacon’s highly anticipated new establishment is Now Open
Lunch Tue–Fri 11–3; Sat & Sun 10–3; dinner Tue–Thu 5–10; Fri & Sat 5–11; Sun 5–10 Indulge in American-style small-plate cuisine for lunch, dinner or a weekend brunch. Queen City promotes close relationships with local farms to bring the freshest ingredients to our menu. We offer a full bar, featuring craft beer from the Hudson Valley as well as an international selection. Restaurant 1915 55 Hessian Dr, Bear Mountain (845) 786-2731 ext. 1915; visitbearmountain.com Thu–Sun 5–9 Located at the historic Bear Mountain Inn, enjoy a seasonal menu in a beautiful lodge setting. RiverMarket Bar & Kitchen 127 W Main St, Tarrytown (914) 631-3100; rivermarketbarandkitchen.com Lunch & dinner daily Innovative, epicurean hub featuring a restaurant, bar, wood-fired pizzeria, wine and spirits store, and farmers’ market. Located on Tarrytown’s riverfront just a stone’s throw from the Metro-North station. Riverview Restaurant 45 Fair St, Cold Spring (845) 265-4778; riverdining.com Lunch Tue–Fri noon–2:30; Sat noon–4; dinner Tue–Fri 5:30–9:30; Sat 5–10; Sun noon–9; closed Mon
CAFE´
Your neighborhood purveyor of local Hudson Valley-raised meats Nose-to-Tail · Grass & Grain Finished Angus · Specialty Cuts Charcuterie · Smoked Meats · House-made Stocks · Craſt Bacon
he
ry
LOC AL
r a B
bu
s
tc
b’
FA R E
8:30–4:30 closed tues. breakfast & lunch all day catering
2356 RT 44/55 GARDINER, NY 12525
845 • 255 • 4949 WWW.MIOGARDINER.COM
THE VILLAGE TEA ROOM BREAKFAST
~ LUNCH ~ AFTERNOON TEA ~ DINNER ~ CATERING
Lunch Served Daily Tues-Fri 11am - 7:30pm • Sat 10am - 6pm 69 Spring Street, Beacon, NY 12508 845.831.8050 • www.barbsbutchery.com 84
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
10 Plattekill Ave, New Paltz 845 255 3434 www.TheVillageTeaRoom.com
Contemporary American cuisine with beautiful river views. Seasonally inspired menus featuring market fresh seafood, brick oven pizza and creative daily specials. No credit cards; checks OK. Reservations suggested.
beef and pork and our signature rub—in a pleasing American décor or on our spacious patio. The drink list includes a large selection of craft beers, Kentucky bourbons and local spirits. This is BBQ at its best.
The Roundhouse 2 E Main St, Beacon (845) 765-8369; roundhousebeacon.com Serving a locally inspired, seasonal menu, the restaurant offers stunning waterfall views in its Rockwell Group– designed dining room. The adjoining lounge features a menu of small plates, craft beer, and artisanal cocktails. With Executive Chef Brandon Collins at the helm, both the restaurant and lounge provide gorgeous setting for enjoying an exceptional meal or distinctive drink.
Sour Kraut 118 Main St, Nyack (845) 358-3122; sour-kraut.com Sun–Thu 11:30–10; Fri & Sat 11:30–11 An authentic fine German restaurant in the heart of Nyack. Featuring a variety of homemade German fare, a cozy atmosphere and music.
Schatzi’s Pub & Bier Garden 202 Main St, Pougkeepsie (845) 454-1179; schatzispubpk.com Located a block from the Civic Center, this space offers German/American gastropub fare. It houses 15 tap lines and is home to a gorgeous outdoor beer garden. You’ll find all your drink and eat needs at this casual Poughkeepsie gem. Smoky Rock BBQ 6367 Mill St (Rt 9), Rhinebeck (845) 876-5232; smokyrockbbq.com Lunch & dinner Wed–Mon; closed Tue Enjoy authentic, slow-smoked barbecue—all made in-house with age-cured
Tavern At Highlands 955 Rt 9D, Garrison (845) 424-3254 ext. 16; highlandscountryclub.net Dinner Thu–Sat; midday menu Sat & Sun Refined farm-to-table comfort food, a great New York artisanal beer list and expanded wine selections make this a favorite among locals. Multiple fireplaces, wide plank floors and family-style tables provide a warm, inviting spot. The outdoor custom-built firepit allows diners to enjoy its blazing warmth, stargazing and conversation.The enclosed south veranda is open for cocktails and dining. Terrapin Restaurant & Red Bistro 6426 Montgomery St, Rhinebeck (845) 876-3330; terrapinrestaurant.com Lunch & dinner daily
From far-flung origins, the world’s most diverse flavors meet and mingle here. From elements both historic and eclectic comes something surprising, fresh and dynamic: dishes to delight body and soul. Choose fine dining in Terrapin’s dining room or casual fare in the bistro-style atmosphere of Red Bistro & Bar. From good burgers and quesadillas to wild salmon and local filet mignon. Terrapin’s local organic and authentic menu satisfies all. Thyme Restaurant 3605 Crompond Rd, Yorktown Heights (914) 788-8700; thymerestaurant.net Lunch & dinner Tue–Sun 11:30–10; brunch Sun 11:30–2 Step into Thyme for a relaxing meal of distinguished flavors. Chef-owner Tom Costello offers a menu of masterfully crafted dishes featuring Contemporary American fare in a warm and inviting setting. Explore the diverse wine list and seasonal cocktail specials. Tuthill House at the Mill 20 Gristmill Ln, Gardiner (845) 255-4151; tuthillhouse.com Sun–Tue, Thu 11:30–9; Fri & Sat 11:30–10; closed Wed Homemade American cuisine featuring prime steaks, grass-fed beef, seafood and pasta in an historic 1788 grist mill. Our menu is inspired by Italian and American country cooking, featuring fresh, local artisanal products and ingredients of the Hudson Valley.
Valley at the Garrison 2015 Rt 9, Garrison (845) 424-3604; thegarrison.com/restaurants Valley: Dinner Thu–Sun 5–9; midday menu Sat & Sun 11:30–2:30 Terrace: Mon–Thu 8–6; Fri–Sun 7–7 Valley, The Garrison’s signature fine-dining restaurant offers seasonal American Cuisine. Many ingredients are sourced from Garrison Farm, as well as other farms in the region. Terrace Grill, a casual dining venue, supplies guests with muffins and morning items, as well as burgers, salads and light fare all day. Vanderbilt House 161 Main St, Philmont (518) 672-9993; vanderbilt-house.com Dinner Tue–Sat 5–10; closed Sun & Mon Built in the 1860s to serve railroad employees and upstate travelers, this historic restaurant and inn features eight cozy bedrooms and locally sourced cuisine. The Village Tea Room 10 Plattekill Ave, New Paltz (845) 255-3434; thevillagetearoom.com Tues–Sun 8–9 The Village Tea Room is a unique gathering place, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner as well as a variety of teas. Tantalizing cakes and cookies. Organic honey, pot pies and roast chicken. Zagat survey says “Irish ex-pat Agnes Devereux has a real winner.”
161 Main Street, Philmont, NY 12565 518-672-9993 | www.vanderbilt-house.com
FINE DINING & LODGING
café & catering by CIA graduate
Full Service Catering exquisite food unique locations local, seasonal ingredients lasting impression
Visit Our Café
1 East Market Street Red Hook, NY 12571
160 Fairview Ave, Fairview Plaza, Hudson, NY 518-828-0934 | fairview-wines.com
T: 845.758.9030, F: 845.758.9003 jjgourmet2006@yahoo.com • www.jandjgourmet.com
june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
85
West Main Bar & Kitchen 2710 W. Main St, Wappingers Falls (845) 297-0510; westmainkitchenandbar.com Lunch & Dinner Wed–Mon 11:30–9; Fri & Sat til midnight A friendly new American-style restaurant in the village of Wappingers Falls. The menu changes seasonally and displays Mexican, Italian and Asian flavors. Also offers a banquet room that seats up to 50 for private events. Wildfire Grill 74 Clinton St, Montgomery (845) 457-3770; wildfireny.com Lunch Mon–Sat 11:30–3; Sun noon–3; dinner Sun–Thu 5–9; Fri & Sat 5–10 Eclectic is the buzzword at this popular local eatery, where patrons can feast on a predominantly American menu with Asian, Mexican and Italian influences in a rustic Victorian setting. The Would 120 North Rd, Highland (845) 691-9883; thewould.com Dinner Tue–Sat Dine amid the apple orchards. A long history of warm hospitality and innovative New American cuisine makes for a popular destination. CIA-trained chefs show dedication to great ingredients and seasonality for sophisticated fare. For a lighter option, try the bistro menu.
Lunch & Dinner 138 South Avenue Poughkeepsie, NY 845-337-3487 Private Party Room Available
porcocafefresh.com
Xaviar’s Restaurant Group Chef-owner Peter Kelly offers his signature service and exceptional cuisine to four locations. Critics agree: Dining in the valley will never be the same. Xaviar’s at Piermont 506 Piermont Ave, Piermont (845) 359-7007 Lunch Fri & Sun noon–2; dinner Wed– Fri 6–9; Sat seatings 6 & 9; Sun 5–8 Freelance Café & Wine Bar 506 Piermont Ave, Piermont (845) 365-3250 Lunch Tue–Sun noon–3; dinner Tue–Thu 5:30–10; Fri til 10:30; Sat til 11; Sun 5–10 Restaurant X & Bully Boy Bar 117 North Rt 303, Congers (845) 268-6555 Lunch Tue–Fri noon–2:30; dinner Tue–Thu 5:30–10; Fri 5–10:30; Sat til 11; Sun til 8; closed Mon X2O Xaviars on the Hudson 71 Water Grant Way, Yonkers (914) 965-1111 Lunch Tue–Fri; dinner Tue–Sun; brunch Sun
T O U R I S M
Sullivan County Visitors Association (800) 882-CATS; SCVA.net Explore the festivities and natural beauty of Sullivan County through the trails, restaurants, shops, and fall festivals. Westchester County Tourism (800) 833-9282; visitwestchesterny.com W H O L E S A L E
Manhattan Beer Distributors (718) 292-9300; manhattanbeer.com A diversified distributor of high-quality beers, ciders, wines, waters, and spirits. Visit our website for the complete list of products, including a wide variety of craft beers, such as Keegan Ales and Captain Lawrence. N&S Supply, Inc. 205 Old Rt 9, Fishkill (845) 896-6291; nssupply.com Your one-stop resource for all plumbing, heating and HVAC needs, including specialty products designed and manufactured to meet your lifestyle needs; the latest innovative products, including cutting-edge bathroom technology from remote flushing toilets to hands-free faucets. Six locations: Fishkill, Brewster, Kingston, Catskill, Hudson and Danbury. Red Barn Produce 217 Upper North Rd, Highland (845) 691-7428 Full-service, family owned and operated wholesaler servicing restaurants and institutions with a complete selection of fruits and vegetables for 20 years. A proud distributor of local, New York, high-quality produce at competitive prices emphasizing reliable and personal service. Pick-up or delivery available to Dutchess, Columbia, Ulster and Orange counties. Samaki, Inc. 62 Jersey Ave, Port Jervis (845) 858-1012 samakismokedfish.com Mon–Thu 7–3; Fri 7–1; Sat & Sun 9-noon Purveyors of fine smoked fish, including organic Irish smoked salmon, whitefish, sable and smoked trout. Handcrafted in small batches since 1983. Available wholesale and retail. W I N E & S P I R I T S
Closed Monday and Tuesday
86
the valley table
june
–
august
2015
The Yankee 387 Rt 9, Fishkill theyankeebbq.com Revolutionary barbecue and beer Garden located at the site of America’s Revolutionary War Encampment, just south of I-84 (Fishkill Golf, behind the Dutchess Mall). Take your seat to great barbecue, ice-cold beer, live entertainment and good old American fun.
Fairview Wine & Spirits 160 Fairview Ave, Fairview Plaza, Hudson (518) 828-0934; fairview-wines.com Mon–Thu 9:30–8; Fri & Sat 9:30–9; Sun noon–5; tastings Sat noon–5 With 24 years of experience in Hudson, Fairview Wine & Spirits is Columbia County’s favorite fine wine and liquor store.
Mid Valley Wine & Liquor 39 N Plank Rd, Newburgh (845) 562-1070; midvalleywine.com Mon–Sat 9–9; Sun noon–6 15,000-square-foot shop with more than 8,600 labels, with a 400-square-foot, climate-controlled room for fine wines. Tastings Fri evenings and Sat afternoons. Wine seminars and wine courses are offered periodically. Friendly, knowledgeable staff. UPS shipping. New Paltz Wine & Spirits 245 Main St, New Paltz (845) 255-8528; newpaltzwine.com Mon–Sat 10–9; Sun noon–7 Full-service wine shop, offering a wide variety of wines and spirits available in all price ranges to suit your needs. Large local selection, friendly, know ledgeable service, case discounts, special orders. W I N E R I E S
Nostrano Vineyards 14 Gala Ln, Milton (845) 555-8453; nostranovineyards.com Sat & Sun noon–5 In Italian, “nostrano” translates to “of our own.” Nestled in the hills of the Hudson Valley, Nostrano Vineyards uses the name as their philosophy: a local vineyard producing wine from their own grapes. Tasting room now open. Shawangunk Wine Trail (845) 256-8456; (845) 291-1927; shawangunkwinetrail.com Nestled between the Shawangunks and the Hudson River, just 60 miles north of NYC is a trail of 14 familyowned winereies from New Paltz to Warwick. The wineries offer tours and tastings amidst scenic beauty. A complete listing of wineries and events is available on our website. Stoutridge Vineyard 10 Ann Kaley Ln, Marlboro (845) 263-7620; stoutridge.com Many of our wines and spirits are locally grown, and all are from New York fruits and grains. Our wines are sold exclusively at the winery. Enjoy an authentic taste of the Hudson Valley at our winery, distillery and grounds.
Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery 114 Little York Rd, Warwick (845) 258-4858; wvwinery.com Daily 11–6 for tastings Food & Wine magazine calls our draft cider “clean, vibrant” with a “sweet finish.” We produce wine for every occasion: Chardonnay, Riesling, Harvest Moon, Black Dirt Blush and Red, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir. As the Valley’s first distillery, we produce a line of fine brandies and liqueurs. Bakery Café serves lunch and fresh breads on weekends. Weed Orchards & Winery 43 Mt Zion Rd, Marlboro (845) 236-7848 or (845) 236-2684; thewineryatweedorchards.com Weed Orchards & Winery is a family-run winery with a large selection of New York State wine, hard cider and beer, located on a pick-your-own orchard. Our tasting room is warm and inviting, and our outdoor area provides a beautiful view of the farm and the Marlboro Mountain. Our menu offers high-quality, local, produce-based food selections. Seasonal produce is available to pick starting in August. Whitecliff Vineyard 331 McKinstry Rd, Gardiner (845) 255-4613; whitecliffwine.com Daily 11:30–5:30; Sat til 6 One of the valley’s largest vineyards boasts beautiful views of the Shawangunk Ridge. Owner/wine maker Michael Migliore produces award-winning wines from European vinifera varietals such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Riesling, as well as new hybrids. Visit our friendly tasting room. Winery tours 4 by appointment, special events.
WINERIES BREWERIES
TASTINGS DISTILLERIES VITICULTURE THEVALLEYTABLE
COME CELEBRATE OKTOBERFEST SEPTEMBER 1 THRU OCTOBER 31 LUNCH-DINNER-CATERING CALL FOR RESERVATIONS
118 Main Street, Nyack 845-358-3122
sour-kraut.com facebook.com/SourkrautNyack
Artisanal Smoked Fish handcrafted in small batches
• Organic Irish Smoked Salmon • Whitefish
• Sable • Smoked Trout
62 Jersey Ave. Port Jervis 845-858-1012 Mon-Thurs 7am-3pm Fri 7am-1pm & Weekends 9am-12pm
Mon–Fri 6AM-3PM Sat 7AM-3PM Sun 7AM-2PM Available evenings for catering
DONNA HAMMOND Executive Chef
Custom Catering
237 Hudson Street, Cornwall-on-Hudson 845.534.2450 www.hudsonstreetcafe.com
june
–
august
2015
valleytable . com
87
LAST CALL
farms, food, fairness
S
O M E O F T H E R I C H E S T FA R M L A N D
4)
H
9 T. (R . ST
IG
H
AC
RE
S
W AY
in the Hudson Valley will remain in production for the foreseeable future thanks to an innovative farm preservation program and a coalition of social investors. The Chester Agricultural Center will lease acreage to farmers and advance sustainable farming, land conservation, fair labor practices and access to fresh food. At a ceremonial ribbon-cutting on May 14, Orange County Land Trust Executive Director (one of the investing nonprofits) Jim Delaune credited the Orange County-based Ralph E. E. AV W Ogden Foundation for envisioning the project O D EA and facilitating talks with community stakeM holders. Delaune summed up the enthusiasm for the project, noting, “This is a great day for agriculture in Orange County.” CHESTER AGRICULTURAL CENTER APPROXIMATE TOTAL AREA Northeast Farm Access LLC coordinated the (INCLUDES PROJECTED PURCHASES) project based on a similar one in Chatham (Columbia County), launched in 2014. “The concept is simple and very progressive,” explains Managing Director Bob Bernstein. “Social-impact investors purchase the land and provide 30-year fixed leases for young and new farmers. This is economic development; money invested in agriculture circles around and ultimately creates jobs and great food.” Four farms already are operating on about 85 acres; the ag center plans to close on an additional 15 acres this summer and another 80 by the end of the year. All the acreage will be farmed using sustainable methods, and eventually cycled into organic operations, Bernstein adds. In an innovative educational aspect of the program, BOCES students will put their theoretical learning into practice, working on the farms with farmer mentors. New York Assemblyman James Skoufis (99th District), who also was involved in the development of the project, concluded, ”This is a new model that changes the dynamic. It is about economic development, revitalization of downtown Chester, and fresh food.” Northeast Farm Access nefarmaccess.com
88
THE VALLEY TABLE
JUNE
–
AUGUST
2015
VALLEY TABLE PHOTO
SIMPLE DAYS OF SUMMER 1202 ROUTE 55 LAGRANGEVILLE, NY 12540 T: 845.452.0110 DAILYPLANETDINER.COM OPEN DAILY 5AM-12AM
194 WASHINGTON ST POUGHKEEPSIE, NY 12601 T: 845.473.1576 THEPALACEDINER.COM OPEN 24 HOURS
2521 C SOUTH ROAD (RTE 9) POUGHKEEPSIE, NY 12601 T: 845.849.2839 TABLETALKDINER.COM OPEN DAILY 6AM-12AM
588 ROUTE 9 FISHKILL, NY 12524 T: 845.765.8401 DINEATREDLINE.COM OPEN 24 HOURS
VA N I K I O T I S G R O U P
c a o l l h e a h r t vest y o j n E
COSIMO’S
NEWBURGH
CENTRAL VALLEY
(845) 567-1556
(845) 928-5222
MIDDLETOWN
POUGHKEEPSIE
(845) 692-3242
(845) 485-7172
cosimosrestaurantgroup.com COSIMO'S PROUDLY SUPPORTS LOCAL FARMERS