The Valley Table 72, December 2015-February 2016

T H E M AG A Z I N E O F H U D S O N VA L L E Y FA R M S , F O O D A N D C U I S I N E

THE VALLEY

NUMBER 72 DECEMBER 2015–FEBRUARY 2016 WWW.VALLEYTABLE.COM

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H A N D C R A F T E D S M A LL G O O D S by

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TAKE COMFORT FOR YOUR SELFIE! Hey, foodies. It’s cold outside, but the food and drink inside is warm and comforting in our Sullivan County Catskills.

Join us this winter for some fine, farm to table dishes like mac ‘n cheese, grass-fed organic steak, a craft brew, or a winter vodka cocktail. While you’re here check out the GOOD TASTE BEVERAGE TRAIL, our PERFORMING ARTS SCENE, SNOWMOBILING, SKIING or ICE FISHING. There’s more to do here all year long, than there are weekends on the calendar.

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® I LOVE NEW YORK logo is a registered trademark/service mark of the NYS Dept. of Economic Development, used with permission.

number 72 december 2015–february 2016

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hvadc: growing agriculture in the hudson valley

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one plus one plus one

local flavors in rural hunan

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RIVERFRONT 1 HIGH STREET | DOBBS FERRY 914.693.4130 | HARVEST2000.COM

MONTAUK SEAFOOD HUDSON VALLEY FARM 2 TABLE SUNSET VIEWS RAW BAR TIKI BAR

EDITOR’S LETTER

The ghost of kitchens past Do something for nearly 18 years and in retrospect there are bound to be some things that you wish you’d done differently (or not at all). That’s just about how long we’ve been pushing out issues of The Valley Table. Out of 72 issues, no other article we’ve published haunts me like the one we ran announcing our kitchen renovation.

That pictorial was published way back in issue 55 in anticipation of a quick and easy renovation. (How’s that for an oxymoron?) What amazes me is the long-term memory of our readers. A couple of weeks ago someone asked, “How’s the new kitchen?” I had to patiently explain that it’s a serious project that we’re putting a lot of careful thought and planning into and we’re not rushing it.

Query a number of people about their ideas on kitchen design and you’re likely to hear something like, ”Lots of light. Step out through big glass doors to a breakfast table on the deck overlooking the woods. Appliances—stove, oven, refrigerator, dish washer—within arm’s reach of each other. Plenty of cabinets, with extra storage on top. No wasted space. A clean, light countertop with a built-in butcher block for cutting. Big double sink with disposal. Skylight to vent and illuminate. A desk near the entrance for mail and package drop. Open floor space to accommodate almost any size kitchen table.” That’s what our old kitchen looks like. It should be obvious why we need a new one.

Somewhere in our research we came across this little factoid: Almost 60 percent of divorces begin with a home renovation project. “Not us,” we swore. I learned quickly, however, that to live out my life in wedded bliss I should agree with everything. “What if we put the sink here, the stove over there and open up that wall to the den?” “Good idea.” Two weeks later I hear, “The sink and dishwasher have to be on that wall and the stove over here.” “Good idea.” “But you said the other way was a good idea.” “It was.” “So which do you like better?” “I like them both.” Then, sensing the tension of a confrontation, I’d continue, “What color is the floor?”

Well, the good news is that the much-anticipated, long-awaited Valley Table kitchen renovation is about to begin. (Which reminds me: This guy goes to the doctor, then comes home and tells his wife, “I’ve got good news and bad news.”

“What’s the good news?” she asks. “The good news is he says I’m going to live another 20 years.” “So what’s the bad news?” she asks again. “The bad news is he says I’m going to live another 20 years.” That pretty much sums up renovations, too.)

Normally, this is where we’d segue into how we hope you enjoy this issue and we wish you all a joyous and safe holiday season. We’d say thanks to our family at The Valley Table—our staff, contributing writers, photographers and designers—who make our work a pleasure. Thanks, too, to our advertisers and sponsors who make it all possible. And with deep gratitude, we thank you, our readers, who support our mission and have such a good memory. We’ll see you all in 2016, when we’ll

celebrate a new kitchen, the tenth anniversary of Hudson Valley Restaurant Week and the launch of our totally new website.

Now I have to go and voice my opinion about a floor color. (Hint: I like the light one and the dark one.)

—JN

THE VALLEY TABLE THE MAGAZINE OF HUDSON VALLEY FARMS, FOOD AND CUISINE THE VALLEY TABLE, INC. 380 MAIN STREET, SUITE 202 BEACON, NY 12508 (845) 765-2600 www.valleytable.com www.hudsonvalleyrestaurantweek.com NUMBER 72 DEC 2015 – FEB 2016 PUBLISHER Janet Crawshaw janetc@valleytable.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jerry Novesky jerryn@valleytable.com Editorial Assistant Kelly Seiz kelly@valleytable.com Graphic Design Greg Simpson / Ephemera Design Assistant Director of Marketing Laura Lee Holmbo lauralee@valleytable.com Coordinator Emily Verdile emily@valleytable.com Advertising Representatives Tom Best tom@valleytable.com Kayla DelBiondo kayla@valleytable.com Intern Colleen Stewart Contributors to this issue Timothy Buzinski Ethan Harrison Robin Cherry David Neilsen Eva Deitch Mallika Rao Eliot Gee Keith Stewart Christine Gritmon THE VALLEY TABLE is exclusively devoted to Hudson Valley agriculture, food and cuisine. We support sustainable agricultural practices and efforts to strengthen the links among regional producers, marketers, restaurateurs and consumers. We urge you to patronize businesses that feature Hudson Valley products and to support initiatives that benefit regional agriculture and related efforts.

Letters to the editor regarding magazine content are welcome and will be published as space permits.

Letters should be mailed to the address above, or emailed to editor@valleytable.com. To be considered for publication, letters must be signed.

THE VALLEY TABLE is published four times a year (March, June, Sept and Dec). Distribution is free at selected sites throughout the Hudson Valley or by subscription. Subscriptions are $20 per year. To subscribe, mail a check or money order payable to The Valley Table, 380 Main St., Suite 202, Beacon, NY 12508 or visit valleytable.com.

On the cover: Meadowland Farm Photo by Ethan Harrison 8 8

THE VALLEY table TABLE dec DEC2015 2015––feb FEB2016 2016 the valley

COPYRIGHT © 2015, THE VALLEY TABLE, INC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, mechanical or electronic, without written permission of the publishers. Advertisements designed by The Valley Table are copyrighted and may not be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission.

ISSN 1257-8417

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Audi Q3...The Perfect Portion

2015 Audi Q3

Mohegan Lake Audi

1791 East Main St., (Route 6) Mohegan Lake, NY 10547

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ST EEP T ECHNIQU E

GOOD STUFF

EXCELLENT DRINK MORE GOOD Welch’s Grape Juice, store-brand grape soda, the colorful complement of peanut butter and jelly on white bread—they all combine the naturally sweet Concord grape with corn syrup, preservatives and whoknows-what-else, leading many to believe the prized western New York crop is meant to taste like sugar with a splash of fruit. At Drink More Good, one of Beacon’s more specialized specialty shops, founder and president Jason Schuler has done the unthinkable: he’s embraced the natural Concord grape flavor sans the cloying sweetness.

Schuler noticed a buzz over Alex’s Tomato Farm (Schoharie County) Concord grapes while vending at the Park Slope Farmers’ Market in Brooklyn, so he bought their remaining 40 pounds —still on the vine. Using Drink More Good’s steeping technique, Schuler cooked down the grapes into 180 bottles of syrup. Consumer response to the product convinced Schuler to develop more limited-edition seasonal syrups.

Drawing inspiration from the products he finds at farmers’ markets, he promises the grape syrup is “kind of the first iteration of us doing a seasonal flavor.”

If you want your own bottle of Drink More Good’s limited-edition, organic, hand-crafted Concord Grape Syrup ($12.99), better hurry— almost half of the supply has been sold—only nine cases remain, and when they’re gone, they’re gone.

—VT

SPR OU TED WIN G S

FARM-TO-FLIGHT The “farm-to-table” movement sprouted wings this fall when JetBlue Airways announced its latest project: T5 Farm, a 24,000-square-foot produce garden located just outside Terminal 5 at John F. Kennedy Airport in Queens. The farm-to-flight program also involves composting food waste produced by participating terminal restaurants.

Sophia Mendelsohn, JetBlue’s manager of sustainability, embarked on the urban farm project partly because the company already was sending its food waste to the Hudson Valley to be composted and made into nutrient-rich soil. “It’s important to show that there’s more to New York than New York City,” Mendelsohn explains. “We picked Royal Waste Services because they compost in the Hudson Valley.”

McEnroe Organic Farm in Millerton receives about 300 pounds of food waste daily from participating Terminal 5 restaurants to compost, which is then transported back to the farm and spread over strategically selected crops—salad greens, root vegetables and herbs—specifically chosen to avoid attracting wildlife.

T5 Farm primarily grows blue potatoes for Terra Blue Chips, JetBlue’s official in-flight snack. The farm is expected to produce about 1,000 pounds of potatoes twice a year, which they plan to contribute to Terra’s blue chip production.

Terminal 5 restaurants and eateries also will use many of the harvested vegetables and herbs, while a small portion will be sent to local food pantries.

In the future, local school groups will be able to visit the farm to learn about sustainable agriculture, greenhouse gas emissions and urban farming. JetBlue already features the only postsecurity outdoor airport space in the state and is hoping to eventually grant farm access to airline passengers, as well.

—VT

Drink More Good 383 Main St, Beacon (845) 765-0115; drinkmoregood.com

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N O D ESIG N ER LAB ELS

EVENT S

JUST SAY NO Apple slices are slowly turning brown in lunch bags stuffed in school lockers across America. Though the natural oxidation process could be almost eliminated with a squeeze of citrus juice (or avoided altogether by keeping the fruit whole), a small synthetic biology company in British Columbia named Okanagan developed the Arctic apple.

Using a genetic modification that changes the internal chemical processes in the fruit, a sliced Arctic apple simply won’t turn brown.

The Alpine is the first genetically modified apple approved by both the USDA and the FDA. The approval came despite opposition that cited the possibility of cross-contamination, the likelihood that orchards with Arctic apples would require increased pesticide and fungicide use and the concern over unpredictable consequences the genetic modification could have on human health. Furthermore, based on pending federal legislation, Arctic apples will not have to be labeled.

You’d think that a fresher-looking apple would be a prime product for fast-food chains (where appearance is almost everything). Instead, Wendy’s (the fifth-largest fast-food chain in America, according to QSR magazine, a restaurant trade journal) confirmed to the environmental activist organization, Friends of the Earth, that it has no plans to sell Arctic apples. McDonald’s (the nation’s largest fast-food chain) and Gerber (the baby food company) also have stated they won’t use the engineered fruit, either. In addition, major apple growing associations like USApple and the Northwest Horticultural Council have stated their opposition to the Arctic apple. There’s no indication, however, that the product will be recalled or that the federal agencies will withdraw their endorsement.

JUST SAY NO AGAIN, AND AGAIN The federal Food and Drug Administration has come down squarely on the side of GMO partisans by refusing to endorse a federal law that would require labeling of food products containing GMO ingredients. The decision is seen as a slap in the face by millions of consumers concerned with the use of GMO ingredients in food products without including that information in the label. The FDA called GMO labeling requirements “unjustified” because there is no “scientific evidence” that GMO foods may be harmful to human health. It is not clear what effect this decision will have on Vermont’s mandatory labeling law, set to go into effect in July 2016.

In another controversial move, despite receiving more than 2 million public comments in opposition, the FDA said it would not require labeling of a newly developed GMO salmon. The fish, which is viewed by most environmental organizations as posing a serious environmental risk, has been developed by a Panama-based company frequently cited for violating environmental regulations. The Center for Food Safety, a consumer watchdog group, says it will sue the FDA to have the decision overturned. The group reported that more than 6,000 grocery stores and restaurants have said they will not carry the GMO salmon, and more than 300 environmental, consumer, fishing and health organizations have registered their opposition to development of the fish.

—VT 14

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38TH ANNUAL YULETIDE FAIR HAWTHORNE VALLEY WALDORF SCHOOL, GHENT December 5, 10am-5pm Attendees have the opportunity to bid on and take home their favorite entries at the Gingerbread Auction while shopping for the perfect handcrafted gifts from various artisan vendors throughout the school. hawthornevalleyfarm.org WORK:SHOP HOLIDAY POP-UP SALE December 5 & 6 WICKHAM SOLID WOOD STUDIO A Valley Table sponsored event, visit the Wickham workshop for the third annual holiday sale offering handcrafted contemporary objects from seventeen artisans working in the Hudson Valley and NYC. Features holiday goodies from Five Hens Bakery and Tas Café and spirits tastings from Dennings Point Distillery. workshop.virb.com WREATH FINERIES AT THE WINERIES SHAWANGUNK WINE TRAIL Dec. 5, 6, 12, 13 Get your holiday shopping going with this self-guided tour of fourteen wineries decked out for the holidays.

Visitors receive a souvenir wine tasting glass and handmade grapevine wreath at their first stop and a wreath ornament from each winery visited. shawangunkwinetrail.com FREE WEEKENDS AT STONE BARNS STONE BARNS CENTER, POCANTICO HILLS Dec 5-Mar 27 Drop in to meet the animals, explore the greenhouse and learn about farming through the colder months for free all winter long at Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture. For a small fee, bring the whole family or schedule an insider’s tour. $10 Family Farm Tour; $20 Insider’s Tour. stonebarnscenter.org

photo by timothy knepp , u . s . fish and wildlife service

T HE SP ICE IS RIGHT

SIMMERING SUCCESS Based in Rhinebeck, Maya Kaimal has been spicing up the Hudson Valley with her line of Indian simmer sauces and snacks since the launch of Maya Kaimal Fine Indian Foods in 2003. With two published cookbooks and a line of products from sweet chili chickpea chips (a 2015 Specialty Food Association sofi Award-winner) to more than a dozen refrigerated and shelf-stable sauces, Kaimal is dedicated to making converts to the flavors of Indian cuisine.

Through her website mayakaimal.com, Kaimal shows how to make authentic Indian dishes using basic ingredients from the fridge or pantry.

Spinach chicken curry is quick and easy, using only three ingredients—chicken, Kaimal’s Spinach Saag sauce and buttermilk—mixed and simmered in 30 minutes. Similar, simplified preparations include Classic Korma, Coconut Curry, Vindaloo and Tikka Masala. Each 15-ounce container sells for $5.99-$6.99 and serves four handily.

Available at markets throughout the Hudson Valley, the simmer sauces make hearty, healthy meals and are perfect for a cold winter’s night. The sauces are vegetarian and gluten-free; most are vegan and sugar-free. All are loyal to their ethnic roots.

—CS

R EPR ESEN TIN ’

DESIGN, DEAL, DELIVER The scrap bins, draft folders and backburners of the design world are filled with products that didn’t fit a given project. Karen Quiana and Leslie Linksman, co-owners of LQ Design in Beacon, had tacked up a pinboard and filled dozens of bags with photographs and tear sheets of eclectic art, accessories, furniture and other pieces they loved but hadn’t been able to use.

That frustration led them to create LQ SHOP, an online store launched last April that features products by small-scale (yet notable) local, national and international artisans they’ve stumbled across in their travels.

Linksman describes the company as “a hybrid between a design studio and a showroom, a marketplace and a gallery.” In the short-term, local artists and friends “that aren’t in the shows—someone that someone knows,” Quiana says, can gain visibility on a much larger scale. Work from local artists/artisans like Dakin Roy, Matt Kinney and Kim Markel are currently available on the website.

“We’re planning on opening a brick-and-mortar space in Beacon, which will be very much like a gallery,” Linksman explains. “We also want to help facilitate the local craftspeople we know and give them a place to show their work.” Down the road, the self-described globetrotters hope to bring in work by more international artists.

Quiana and Linksman are familiar with the “struggling artist” trope—both pursued art themselves before entering their respective landscape and interior design careers. “The reality is, most successful artists don’t represent their own work,” Linksman says.

“They need someone to say, ‘You’re awesome, and I’m going to tell everyone how awesome you are because you deserve it.’”

—VT LQShopNY.com

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EVENT S NEWBURGH CANDLELIGHT TOURS CRAWFORD HOUSE, NEWBURGH December 13, 12-5pm The annual self-guided tour of over a dozen decorated homes kicks off at the authentically decorated 1830 Captain David Crawford House. The tour features a diverse assortment of public and private spaces showcasing Newburgh as a center of variety and beauty. $25 in advance; $30 at the door. newburghhistoricalsociety.com

S U STAINAB LE CR EAM COM E T RUE

MILK TAKES OFF Travelers waiting for flights at the major metro-NY airports can now cream their coffee with Hudson Valley Fresh milk. The dairy farm cooperative that raised the bar on milk quality and aimed to return a profit to dairy farmers marks 10 years this year. The brand has expanded well beyond the Hudson Valley into northern New Jersey, western Connecticut and major metro-NY airports, including JFK, LaGuardia and Newark.

Founded in 2005 by Sam Simon, a Dutchess County dairy farmer and (retired) orthopedic surgeon, the cooperative has grown from four dairy farms producing about 500,000 pounds of milk per month to nine equal-partner farms, with more than 2,000 cows producing 3.4 million pounds monthly. The co-op guarantees an additional six-cent return to the farmer per gallon. “When you’re talking about 20 million pounds of milk per month,” Simon points out, “that’s a lot of money.”

While the rest of the country’s milk consumption has decreased by more than 35 percent over the last 40 years, the demand for Hudson Valley Fresh milk has only increased. Thanks to a partnership with the FarmOn Foundation, Hudson Valley Fresh milk (and its ever-popular chocolate milk) also is available to public schools throughout the Hudson Valley, where Simon says student milk consumption has increased by at least 30 percent.

“Not all milk is created equal,” he says, citing Hudson Valley Fresh’s farm standards (cows are raised on a carefully calculated hay-grain feed blend), the absence of artificial hormones, a minimal somatic cell count (a positive indicator of health), and a 36-hour cow-to-fridge guarantee.

Hudson Valley Fresh 47 South Hamilton St, Poughkeepsie (845) 264-2372 hudsonvalleyfresh.com 16

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NOFA NY WINTER CONFERENCE SARATOGA HILTON & CITY CENTER, SARATOGA SPRINGS January 22-24 The 34th Annual Organic Farming and Gardening Conference has a theme of “Good, Hard Work: Ecosystems, Economics, Energy & Equity.” Features an organic tradeshow, extensive workshops and keynote speakers Rosalinda Guillen, recognized farm worker and rural justice leader of Cesar Chavez’s United Farm Workers of America, and Kathie Arnold, co-owner and operator of Twin Oaks Dairy LLC. nofany.org SWEET & SINFUL REVENGE WINE & CUPCAKE PAIRING ROBIBERO FAMILY VINEYARDS, NEW PALTZ February 6, 7, 13, 14, Seating’s at 12:45pm, 2:30pm, 4:15pm This Valentine’s Day, enjoy pairings of Robibero’s wines with Moxie cupcakes. $18 per person, includes 3 mini cupcakes paired with 3 wines, plus an additional 3 wine tastings. robiberofamilyvineyards.com LOCAL CHEESE, CHOCOLATE & WINE PAIRINGS FOR VALENTINE’S DAY BENMARL WINERY, MARLBORO February 13 & 14, 11am-6pm Grab a group of friends or treat that someone special to pairings of Benmarl’s wines with the best of NYS’s cheeses and chocolates. $25 per person, includes 5 wine pairings. benmarl.com

M UST HAVE ELIXIR

SWEET‘N’SOUR Move over Braggs, there’s a new apple cider vinegar in town.

Fishkill Farms, known for its ecofriendly apples and UV-treated sweet cider, is now the first Hudson Valley orchard to offer its own cider vinegar. Made from end-of-season, high-sugar apples (a mix of Golden Delicious, Red Delicious, Empire and Cortland), the vinegar has been fermenting for 8 months.

Some folks swear a teaspoon or two of apple cider vinegar in a glass of water boosts immunity.

Cider vinegar, in fact, holds a number of health benefits– antimicrobial, cardiovascular, antioxidant and antiglycemic. The pantry staple also has a popular claim as a natural cleaning agent, herbicide, skin toner and hair conditioner.

Fishkill Farm manager Mark Doyle says only ten gallons were produced in this first batch, currently on sale at the Farm Store for $4.75 per 16-ounce bottle.

—VT

R OYAL CU R D S

BIG CHEESE IN THE BIG APPLE Dutch Hollow Farm’s history reads like a family album of dairy royalty (both human and bovine), each member of the Chittenden family and their herd of Jerseys racking up achievements, awards and recognition for their breeding skills and milk quality. The second-largest dairy farm in New York State (“probably the largest in New England,” says Beth Chittenden, operator of the farm’s Dutch Hollow Education Center) produces about 5,000 gallons of milk daily.

Passionate, cheese-loving New Yorkers (City or otherwise) are familiar with Beecher’s Handmade Cheese, an artisanal cheese and charcuterie store, café and cheesemaking center in the city’s Flatiron District. Dutch Hollow Farm sends about 1,250 gallons of fresh milk there, every day. Visitors can watch as the cheese is churned, curded and pressed into batches of Dutch Hollow Dulcet, their signature Jack-style cheese.

Dutch Hollow Farm has been breeding pedigree Jerseys for over 30 years, starting with the matriarchal Mischief line and culminating in one of their most highly merchandized cow families, Cherish. Coincidentally, that’s just what Beecher’s was looking for. “They reached out to us,” Beth explains. “We had visited [their flagship location] just because we were in Seattle. They said they were coming this way, that they were looking for Jersey cows.”

For Hudson Valley dairy to be featured in a New York City cheese shop isn’t uncommon, though a specifically branded signature blend using fresh, unblended dairy is quite a feat. Beth is confident that the quality of Dutch Hollow’s milk will cement the relationship. “They use our milk because the better the quality of the milk, the better cheese it makes.”

—VT Beecher’s Handmade Cheese 900 Broadway, New York (212) 466-3340; beechershandmadecheese.com Dutch Hollow Farm 92 Running Creek Rd, Schodack Landing (518) 732-4633

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OPENINGS

Caffe Macchiato

Baja 328

Mexican Kitchen

Caffe Macchiato 99 Liberty St, Newburgh (845) 565-4616 addressyourappetite.com

Baja 328 328 Main Street, Beacon (845) 838-2252 baja328.com

Mexican Kitchen 15 1/2 North Front St, New Paltz (845) 256-5070 facebook.com/mexicankitchennewpaltz

The revamp of Caffe Macchiato under new chef/owner Jodi Cummings comes from the heart of a local. As a Newburgh native, Cummings has given the 30-seat, European-style café, reopened last September in Newburgh’s historic district, a vintage vibe and a nod to the city’s history. “It’s sort of George Washington and his troops go to Pastise for breakfast,” Cummings laughs. Antique prints enhance the cozy atmosphere, which patrons can discuss over locally sourced tea, coffee and brunch. The menu treats classic brunch items with European sophistication—baked eggs with balsamic vegetables, marinara, parmesan and a baguette, or French toast sculpted out of layered croissants and marzipan-sweet cream batter, topped with fresh berries, cinnamon and syrup. Cummings buys her shrimp from Newburgh’s Eco-Shrimp Garden and works with several regional farms and distributors for organic produce, dairy and meats. A cyclical seasonal menu reflects her passion for shopping locally.

“I’m very aware of the connection to the local farmers,” Cummings says, “and that’s probably been the number one way I’ve taken the café to a new level.”

Tue–Fri 9–3, Sat–Sun 9–4

The three Maniscalchi brothers have watched their father toss pizzas in an Italian kitchen since 1981, when he opened the original Leo’s in Cornwall.

When he retired, his sons took over and expanded to Newburgh in 2003, then Wappingers in 2006. The brothers branched out to Beacon in October with an interesting spin on Tex-Mex cuisine— “Everything is fusion,” Gaspare Maniscalchi explains. This isn’t a traditional taqueria— Asian and Mediterranean influences pepper the menu’s seven sections: Tacos, Tamales, Quesadillas, Entrees, Desserts, On A Bun and In A Bowl. Gray and red walls double as a gallery, circulating work by local artists like Vivian Altman and Tom Doyle— Altman designed the massive chalkboard announcing specials for each section, expertly prepared by Chef Adam Moses, a Johnson and Wales graduate previously of The Hop. The restaurant’s centerpiece lies behind the bar—108 tequilas star in seven specialty cocktails incorporating Drink More Good syrups, each a one-ofa-kind recipe available by the pitcher or the glass. The brothers only use the highest quality ingredients (the standard margarita features Espolon tequila, Pierre Ferrand, 100-percent organic blue agave nectar and freshly squeezed lime). “We don’t have a bottle of triple sec in this building,” Frank boasts. “We dare you to find one.”

Mon–Thu 11am–10pm, Fri–Sat 11–11, Sun 11–8

On a neighborly New Paltz side street, Woodstock native and Culinary Institute of America alum Chef Adam Monteverde is dishing out homestyle Mexican cuisine using fresh, local Hudson Valley ingredients. Monteverde opened the new eatery in May, hoping to bring the neighborhood-style Mexican restaurants of Los Angeles to the Hudson Valley with authentic dishes like the Al Pastor Tacos, pork and pineapple topped with onions, cilantro and wedges of lime, as well as the vegetarian Mexican Kitchen Chimichanga with lettuce, crema, pico de gallo and guacamole. His goal: for each dish to cater to the local community using flavors that speak for themselves. The location mimics the laidback atmosphere of West Coast Mexican restaurants Monteverde experienced while traveling. With outdoor patio dining and an intimate indoor dining space, Mexican Kitchen is fit for a quick and casual meal. Place a take out order at “the podium” or sit down with a plate of Huevos Rancheros—they’re serving breakfast all day.

Everyday, 11am–10pm

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251 Lex

Saltaire Oyster Bar & Fish House

The Vault Tapas & Spirits

251 Lex 251 Lexington Ave, Mt. Kisco (914) 218-8156 251lex.com

Saltaire Oyster Bar & Fish House 55 Abendroth Ave, Port Chester (914) 939-2425 saltaireoysterbar.com

The Vault Tapas & Spirits 446 Main St, Beacon (845) 202-7735 thevaultbeacon.com

Constantine Kalandranis, chef/owner of 273 Kitchen in Harrison and 8 North Broadway in Nyack, has opened the largest of his three restaurants—a 135seat Mediterranean raw bar and grill in a century-old Victorian—in Mount Kisco.

The main and upstairs floors serve as the main dining area, while a 30-seat seasonal patio serves up spit roasts in the warmer months. A 35-seat barroom features a custom, expertly constructed maple bar made of repurposed wood from local barns, copper, brick, steel and leather.

Warm cream colors meld with deep blue hues throughout the restaurant, a clever combination by Drivetrain Creative Group, an interior and integrated marketing design agency in Stratford, Conneticut.

Like Kalandranis’s other restaurants, the menu includes a variety of small plates and entrees, as well as a four- and sixcourse chef tasting menus ($45 and $65 respectively). Local products provide the basis for executive chef Hichem Habbas’ culinary creations, with an emphasis on fresh seafood. The menu changes daily, and the open kitchen allows diners to watch the crew in action. Craft beers, artisanal wines and top-shelf spirits are available behind the half-moon bar.

Mon–Thu and Sun 5–10, Fri–Sat 5–11

A Westchester fish and oyster bar came ashore with a century-old grain warehouse on the Byram River. Formerly the Willett House, the 50-seat restaurant embraces a sophisticated nautical theme, the open space flooded with natural light from skylights lining high ceilings. Owner Les Barnes is no stranger to the New York piscine scene—his father opened the renowned seafood restaurant London Lennie’s in Queens in 1959, which Barnes took over ten years later. Fresh seafood is brought in every day from the Fulton Fish Market to be prepped for the extensive lunch and dinner menus arranged by Chef Bobby Will, previously of The Atlantic Inn. Professional shuckers line a massive U-shaped bar of Italian Carrara marble, serving up ten varieties of oysters from Rhode Island, Massachusetts, Maine and Canada along with five signature sauces, from a classic house cocktail sauce to spicy pear and cucumber relish. The bar menu reflects the seasons, with cool and refreshing cocktails in the summer and hearty, warming beverages like “My Mom’s Maple” (bourbon, maple syrup and citrus with a jolt of chili bitters) in the winter. Extensive wine and craft beer lists include local products like Lagunitas Brewing Company, Sixpoint Brewery, Broken Bow Brewery and Captain Lawrence Brewing Company.

Mon–Thu 11:30–10pm; Fri 11:30–11; Sat 5–11; Sun 5–9

Manager Jon Lombardi brings new life to Beacon’s ever-evolving bank space with The Vault Tapas & Spirits—formerly the Matteawan National Bank in the 1920s— backed by a degree from the Culinary Institute of America and 30-plus years of Hudson Valley restaurant experience.

Lombardi and his brother and co-manager, Marc, collaborated with owner Anthony DiSarro. The interior revamp includes numerous mirrors and innovative lighting illuminating the restaurant’s focal point: the old-fashioned bank vault. Original high tin ceilings lend a light, airy feel to the dining room, which seats 85, with a seasonal patio that seats an additional 50.

The locally sourced artisanal American menu designed by Chef Amerci Rodriguez (previously of Nic-L-Inn Wine Cellar and Beech Tree Grill) combines creative takes on traditional burgers, steaks, lamb and pork (provided by local favorite Barb’s Butchery) with a fresh raw bar and a cheese and charcuterie selection provided

by Beacon Pantry. Local craft beers include Brew and Barrel’s Country Bumpkin Pumpkin, Adirondack Pub & Brewery’s Oktoberfest and Brooklyn East IPA. Tue–Thu 11am–10pm, Fri 11am–midnight, Sat noon–midnight, Sun noon–9pm

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BOOKS

fireside reading

R

i g h t a b o u t n ow , w e g at h e r o u r n ot e s a b o u t

the books we’ve received over the course of the year—but not just because we’re prospecting for holiday gifts. The best books tend to end up by the big chair near the fireplace in the den so they can help make the inevitable long, cold wintery afternoons a bit more pleasant, if not productive.

For the back story on the organic vegetables you can now find at any of the dozens of farmers’ markets and grocery stores in the Hudson Valley, you can’t do much better than SUNY New Paltz sociology professor Brian Obach’s Organic Struggle: The Movement for Sustainable Agriculture in the United States (MIT Press, 2015; $29 hardcover). Tracing the organization of the modern organic movement to key people here in the Hudson Valley (including activist Liana Hoodes and farmer Dan Guenther), through the philosophical, social, economic and even moral arguments and obstacles that peppered its growth, Obach looks at its current position in the political sphere and examines the implications that corporate control may have on the very nature of organic agriculture.

Depending on which stocks you own, the future may look rosy or downright septic.

If you look at the Hudson Valley through Nancy Fuller’s eyes, though, you’ll likely see lots of faces smiling right back. Fuller, co-owner with her husband of Ginsberg’s, the highly successful regional food distribution company, lives in Columbia County and is the host of Farmhouse Rules, the highest-rated in-kitchen show on the Food Network.

Her good nature shines both on screen and in the recipes and commentaries in the book, Farmhouse Rules: Simple, Seasonal Meals for the Whole Family (Grand Central Life & Style, 2015; $30 hardcover). The recipes are arranged not by ingredient or course but by season, which is what you 20

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might expect from a twelfth-generation “farmer’s daughter,” and the meals designed around each dish in the book are family oriented. (Fuller even challenges her son, in print, to a chili cook-off because he refused to share his awardwinning chili recipe with her.)

You can take beautiful organic products and cook them up for a meal, or you can photograph them. Matthew Benson does both in Growing Beautiful Food: A Gardener’s Guide to Cultivating Extraordinary Vegetables and Fruit (Rodale, 2015; $32.50 hardcover). Benson, a writer and photographer who lives and farms in Balmville (Orange County), reviews the essentials of establishing an organic garden large enough to be sustainable and practical, then describes his choices of vegetable and fruit varieties, their care and harvest. What he has produced is part philosophical text, part how-to book, part photography portfolio; it is not the usual romantic description or poetic narrative about growing things.

A photography book of an entirely different ilk is Amy Goldman’s Heirloom Harvest: Modern Daguerreotypes of Historic Garden Treasures—Photographs by Jerry Spagnoli (Bloomsbury, 2015; $85 hardcover). Based on Goldman’s gardens at her home near Rhinebeck (Dutchess County), Spagnoli’s beautiful yet sullen daguerreotypes are reminiscent of the plant portraits by nineteenth-century British photographer Charles Jones (collected in the 1999 book, Plant Kingdoms: The Photographs of Charles Jones, now out of print). Goldman, an artist in her own right, has penned an inspirational text about the development and evolution of her gardens of heirloom plants and heritage animals, their significance to her and, ultimately, their value in the new world of genetic one-upmanship. The book is “an act of preservation and a way of honoring

beauty, diversity and history in the face of pressure not to garden, not to save seeds,” Goldman writes. “What better way to pay homage to heirloom plants than to marry them to the most heirloom of heirloom photography?”

Across the river in Kingston (Ulster County), Joshua Vogel established Black Creek Mercantile & Trading Company, a shop devoted to small-scale, handmade objects and tools.

Now he’s put his passion to paper in The Artful Wooden Spoon: How to Make Exquisite Keepsakes for the Kitchen (Chronicle, 2015; $24.95 hardcover). This comprehensive little book could easily have been subtitled Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Making a Wooden Spoon, From Designing a Useful Shape to Finding the Right Wood to Carving Techniques and Tools to Choosing and Applying the Proper Finish. The range of Vogel’s knowledge about hand carving (or carving using hand power tools) is astonishing—the book’s 170+ pages are dotted with historic facts and anecdotes, technical details, design hints and more. This is not an art-by-intuition Zen text; it is a hardcore, yet very accessible, instruction book.

“Know thy farmer; know thy food” is an echoing mantra throughout the sustainable food movement. Yet, how much do we really know about what we eat? And if we knew more, would that change the market and/or our eating habits drastically? Two standout books published this year don’t directly pertain to the Hudson Valley, but they’re mentioned here because it’s hard to imagine not being affected in some way by the information they convey.

In Lesser Beasts: A Snout-to-Tail History of the Humble Pig (BasicBooks, 2015; $27.50 hardcover), historian and author Mark Essig notes there are few animals that simultaneously elicit more affection, homage and revulsion before being eaten than pigs. One of the oldest

domesticated animals, pigs are intelligent, loyal, protective, playful, curious and “fully alive,” Essig stresses, yet the species in all its incarnations worldwide has endured more cruelty and disdain than any other animal—despite (or perhaps because of) its wide popularity with chefs and consumers. (Who among us doesn’t feel slighted or cheated if bacon doesn’t accompany breakfast?) Essig doesn’t miss a beat in this comprehensive porcine history, and no religious, political, economic, social or even artistic connection with these sometimes gentle, sometimes extraordinarily fierce creatures goes unexamined. One comes away wondering, however, if the odds will ever be in the pig’s favor.

Confession: Sy Montgomery’s The Soul of an Octopus: A Surprising Exploration into the Wonder of Consciousness (Atria Books, 2015; $26 hardcover) was surprisingly powerful and effective in changing my attitude toward this ubiquitous appetizer. Montgomery describes in detail the seemingly miraculous mental and physical abilities of the marine invertebrate whose main claim to fame thus far has been a co-starring role in a grade-B science fiction movie.

Nonetheless, there is convincing evidence here of superior intelligence, memory, problem-solving ability, bonding and even inter-species communication (the octopus has, after all, the equivalent of eight fully functioning brains), and Montgomery stops just short of declaring that her octopus “friend” possesses a “consciousness” as we define and understand it. This fascinating book is ranked first on several Amazon.com non-fiction lists, and don’t be surprised if, like me, you come away from it convinced that its incredible abilities and character have earned the octopus some privileges, including the right not to be eaten.

—JN

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EATING BY THE SEASON

F

e w v e ge ta b l e s h ave h a d to

sweet potatoes text by robin cherry

photos by eva deitch

suffer the ignominies faced by the venerable sweet potato. Mislabeled, misnamed and inextricably bound to the thick white goo of melted marshmallows, molasses, brown sugar or maple syrup, the sweet potato nonetheless has managed to find a respectable spot in cuisines around the world. Some varieties are successfully grown here in the Hudson Valley, and its versatility in a wide range of dishes (with or without marshmallows) should put the bright orange tuber on more shopping lists, and not just around Thanksgiving.

The sweet potato is indigenous to Central and South America; archeological evidence found in Peruvian caves proves that it’s one of mankind’s oldest cultured vegetables.

The recent discovery of prehistoric sweet potato remains in Polynesia suggests that the Polynesians may have made landfall in South America long before Columbus. (This theory is supported by linguistics: Kuumala, the Polynesian word for sweet potato, is closely related to kumara and cumal, the words for sweet potato in Quechua, the ancient Incan language still spoken by native people in the Andes.) Naturally, when Christopher Columbus finally made it across the eastern ocean, he brought sweet potatoes back to Europe; by the sixteenth century, Spanish explorers

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“Some people in the past have added marshmallows to this dish, which you may do at your own risk.”

—James Beard

had introduced sweet potatoes to the Philippines, and Portuguese adventurers had ferried them to Africa, India, Indonesia and southern Asia.

Beloved by Native Americans, sweet potatoes also were a significant source of nourishment for settlers and soldiers during the Revolutionary War. And a good source of nourishment they are. Sweet potatoes are a very good source of fiber loaded with calcium, potassium, magnesium and phosphorus. Orange-skinned sweet potatoes contain a significant amount of beta carotene, which the body converts to retinol (vitamin A), necessary for vision and growth. It’s not surprising that a colonial physician referred to the sweet potato as the “vegetable indispensable.”

More than half of all commercially grown sweet potatoes in the U.S. come from the southern states (primarily North Carolina). China currently is the world’s largest sweet potato producer, growing about 80 million tons—85 percent of the global

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crop—primarily to feed livestock and for industrial applications like biofuel and bioplastic. The second-largest harvest comes from Africa—that crop is used primarily for food.

Sweet potato production traditionally has been limited to tropical climates,

but new, short-season varieties and techniques like soil warming have been developed that make it possible to grow them all the way north to the Canadian border. In northern zones, Georgia Jet, a popular Canadian variety, has proved to be reliable; Beauregard and Centennial also are popular.

At Old Ford Farm in New Paltz, co-owner Becky Fullam says her sweet potatoes (Beauregards) are “a definite crowd pleaser,” relatively easy to grow and present few problems with insects or disease. However, harvesting can be a challenge: ”They have to be dug by hand and it is difficult to free the roots from the soil without piercing them with the fork,” Fullam says. “Mice also are a problem—-they nibble around the tops of many of the roots, making them unmarketable.”

Beauregards also are the variety of choice at Common Hands Farm, in Claverack, near Hudson, where they’ve proven to be a successful market crop.

“They’re definitely a favorite,” says farm owner/manager Tess Parker. “If we

photos these pages : eva deitch

want to do well in market, we bring the sweet potatoes. People are definitely looking for them.”

Susan Paykin, farm manager of Common Ground Farm, in Wappingers Falls, believes her crop of Beauregards benefitted from the black plastic mulch used to keep weeds down and soil temperature up. “We lay a thin layer of plastic mulch down first, then transplant the sweet potato slips into the plastic,” she says. “The sweet potatoes appreciate the heat, and we don’t have to worry about weeding beds when the plants are small.”

Sweet potatoes keep better than any other root vegetable if they’re stored properly. They should not be stored in the refrigerator or anywhere else, for that matter, where the temperature falls below 50˚F, as this will cause them to decay rapidly. They’ll last a month or two in a cupboard or bowl, but they’ll keep for up to a year if properly “cured.” The process is simple: Once harvested, brush them off (do not wash), store them at 85˚F for 2 weeks, then store at 60˚F for another 6 to 8 weeks. This curing process causes the tuber to form a “second skin,” which seals it and also intensifies the flavor.

Stories abound about when and where (and why) sweet potatoes became bound to a marshmallow topping—it wasn’t a widespread practice until industrialization made mass production of inexpensive marshmallows possible. (This is not to be confused with sweet potatoes glacé, a preparation that dates from the late eighteenth century in America.) Early in the twentieth century, the marketers of Angelus Marshmallows developed a booklet encouraging the use of marshmallows in both sweet and savory recipes, including the first documented appearance of mashed sweet potatoes with a marshmallow topping.

That was followed in 1930 by How Famous Chefs Use Campfire Marshmallows, an ambitious booklet

A YAM IS A YAM IS NOT A SWEET POTATO • Sweet potatoes belong to the morning glory family Convolvulaceae, from the Latin word convolvere (to wind), a reference to the vines’ winding stem.

Yams are the most well-known member of the family Dioscoreaceae of edible, tropical tubers—but they’re not even remotely related to sweet potatoes.

BTW: The plain, everyday white, or Irish, potato is a member of the equallyunrelated Solanaceae (nightshade) family.

• Sweet potatoes are indigenous to Central and South America. Yams hail from west Africa (which produces 95 percent of the world’s crop) and Asia.

• The word yam comes from the West African word nyami, which means to eat. When slaves from Africa first saw New World sweet potatoes, they erroneously referred to them as yams, and the label stuck.

• Smooth-skinned sweet potatoes rarely weigh more than a pound and can be long and thin or short and fat, but always taper at the end. Yams have a rough, bark-like skin until cooked; offwhite, purple or red (but never orange) flesh; and they can grow to be over eight feet long and weigh well over 100 pounds (the largest yam on record tipped the scales at 230 pounds).

• Sweet potatoes can be eaten raw; yams must be cooked (boiled, baked or fried) to remove harmful toxins. (In Africa and Polynesia, an extract of yam is used to poison arrows for hunting.)

• The greens of the sweet potato plant are edible and quite nutritious, especially the darker varieties. (In Spanish cuisine they may be referred to as kamote or camote.)

Yam greens are considered inedible.

Note: In some markets, particularly in the South, “yam greens” actually are mislabeled sweet potato greens.

—VT

produced by the company now known as Angelus-Campfire. Featuring recipes by some of New York City’s most prestigious hotel and restaurant chefs, the booklet included a half dozen recipes for sweet potato/marshmallow combos, including stuffed sweet potatoes á la Sanderson (twice-fried sweet potato puffs filled with a blend of marshmallow and cream) from Delmonico’s Chef Nicholas Sabatini, and sweet potatoes and pineapple Robert (layered sweet potato and pineapple slices with maple syrup and marshmallows) from the Ritz’s renowned Chef Louis Diat. The 1972 classic, James Beard’s American Cookery (rpt. Little, Brown, 2010; $35 hardcover), includes a recipe for a sweet potato casserole topped with brown sugar and maple syrup, to which Beard added a cautionary note: “Some people in the past have added marshmallows to this dish, which you may do at your own risk.”

But culinary traditions tend to die hard. In 1997, Thanksgiving fell halfway through American astronaut David Wolf’s four-month stint aboard the Russian space station. Though his foreign hosts graciously prepared a turkey dinner, Wolf, via radio, told his NASA bosses that he was “kind of missing those sweet potatoes with the marshmallows on top.”

4 Common Ground Farm Stony Kill Farm Environmental Education Center 79 Farmstead Ln, Wappingers Falls (845) 231-4424 commongroundfarm.org Common Hands Farm 370 Rt 23B, Claverack commonhandscsa.com Old Ford Farm 1359 Old Ford Rd, New Paltz (845) 220-7819 oldfordfarm.com

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BRIAN ARNOFF / KITCHEN SINK

SPICY LAMB MEATBALLS WITH ROASTED POLENTA MEATBALLS

Ingredients 2 pounds fresh ground lamb 1 small onion, diced 1 chipotle pepper in adobe sauce, chopped 1 cup fresh bread crumbs 1 egg 1/2 cup milk salt and pepper Method Preheat oven to 400° F. 1. Sauté onion in vegetable oil until translucent.

2. Add salt, pepper and chipotle pepper. Cook 2 to 3 minutes.

Remove from heat and let onion mixture cool to room temperature.

3. Combine cooked onions, bread crumbs, milk and egg.

4. Add ground lamb to bread crumb mixture and mix evenly.

5. Shape meatballs, 1 to 2 ounces each, and place on a greased baking sheet.

6. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before baking.

7. Bake meatballs at 400° for 7 to 10 minutes until golden brown and just cooked through.

As a chef, I love sweet potatoes. I find them to be a really versatile ingredient, and there are a lot of local sweet potatoes around here.

The lamb in the dish comes from Barb’s Butchery in Beacon. I wanted to incorporate lamb and sweet potatoes on our menu, so I thought a meatball would be really nice, and the spice would balance the sweetness of the sweet potato.

SWEET POTATO POLENTA

Ingredients 2 large sweet potatoes, diced 1 cup stone-ground polenta 4 cups water 2 to 3 cups milk 1/4 cup grated parmesan or Grana Padano 1/4 cup butter 2 tablespoons maple syrup For garnish: Goat cheese Spicy pickled peppers Fresh herbs such as cilantro mint or parsley METHOD

Preheat oven to 350° F. 1. Toss diced sweet potatoes with vegetable oil, salt and pepper.

Roast at 350° until tender.

2. In a large sauce pan, bring 4 cups water to a boil and slowly stream in polenta, season with salt and pepper. Cook until polenta has thickened.

3. Gradually add 2 cups milk and allow polenta to slowly cook at least another 30 minutes. Reserve remaining cup of milk to adjust thickness before serving.

4. In a sauté pan, melt butter over medium heat.

5. Add diced sweet potato, cooking until the potato starting to brown.

6. Add maple syrup. Cook 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat.

7. Fold sweet potato mixture into polenta.

8. Finish with grated cheese and more milk if necessary to achieve a smooth soft consistency.

To serve: Ladle polenta into a bowl, topping with meatballs and garnishing with goat cheese, spicy pickled peppers and herbs.

Kitchen Sink 157 Main St, Beacon (845) 765-0240 kitchensinkny.com

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recipe photos by ethan harrison

MARK BOLCHOZ / TRATTORIA SAN GIORGIO

CANNELLONI WITH PUMPKIN CREMA AND GORGONZOLA CANNELLONI DOUGH

Ingredients 11/4 cups Italian 00 flour 6 tablespoons durum flour 9 egg yolks 1 tablespoon olive oil 3 tablespoons water Method 1. Mix all ingredients together in mixer or by hand until a solid mass.

2. Knead by hand for 10 minutes, let rest for 30 minutes before using.

3. Roll out dough as thin as possible without tearing. Cut into 4- to 5-inch squares.

4. Bring 4 to 5 quarts of salted water to a rolling boil. Prepare ice bath for noodles after boiling.

5. Boil squares for 1 minute; immediately drop into ice water to cool.

6. Arrange squares on lightly oiled baking sheet until ready to fill.

CANNELLONI FILLING

Ingredients 2 pounds sweet potatoes 1 cup fresh ricotta 2 whole eggs 2 tablespoons brown sugar 1 teaspoon pumpkin spice 3/4 cup crushed Amaretti cookie 1/2 cup breadcrumbs salt and pepper to taste Method Preheat oven to 350° F. 1. Scrub potatoes under cold water. Rub with olive oil and wrap individually in tin foil.

2. Bake 1 hour and 10 minutes in 350˚ oven until soft. Let cool slightly.

3. Peel and mash potatoes with fork. Add ricotta, eggs, brown sugar, pumpkin spice, crushed Amaretti cookie, bread crumbs and salt and pepper. Whisk briefly to combine—don’t overmix. (If watery, add additional breadcrumbs. This should have the consistency of stiff mashed potatoes.)

PUMPKIN CREMA

Ingredients 3 cups heavy cream 1 cup unsweetened pumpkin puree 1 teaspoon pumpkin spice salt and pepper to taste

We try to make what’s available locally the star, especially things that aren’t usually a big part of the recipe—like these sweet potatoes from Laughing Child Farms. Also, a big part of Italian roots is eating seasonally, eating locally, which we choose to practice even though other [out of season] ingredients may be available.

Method 1. Whisk together heavy cream, pumpkin puree, pumpkin spice and salt and pepper in small saucepan.

2. Simmer over medium-high heat (place pan halfway over burner to avoid boiling over) about 25 minutes until thick.

3. Strain pumpkin out for smoother crema or leave in for texture.

Assembly Preheat oven to 375° F. 1. Arrange pasta squares on work space. Place heaping spoon of filling on edge of each square and fold into 3-inch rolls.

2. Place filled cannelloni seam-side down on greased casserole dish.

Top with smear of softened butter and sprinkle of grated parmesan.

3. Cover dish with tin foil and bake at 375° F for 12 to 14 minutes.

4. Remove foil and bake for additional 6 to 8 minutes until heated through and golden brown.

To Serve: If serving individually: Spoon 3 to 4 tablespoons of pumpkin crema onto each dish. If serving in bulk: Cover bottom of serving platter with crema, then carefully arrange cannelloni on platter. Top with toasted walnuts and crumbled gorgonzola dolce, or preferred toasted nut or blue cheese.

Trattoria San Giorgio 3279 Franklin Ave, Millbrook (845) 677-4566 trattoriasangiorgio.com

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MICHAEL BERNARDO / CAFE MIO

SWEET POTATO AND APPLE HASH WITH GORGONZOLA AND FRIED EGGS Ingredients 2 medium sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into a fine 1/4-inch dice 2 shallots, finely sliced 1 red bell pepper, cut into a fine dice 2–3 apples, diced 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon paprika 1/4 cup crumbled Gorgonzola pinch red pepper flakes kosher salt freshly ground black pepper 4 eggs extra virgin olive oil Method 1. Heat 4 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Once hot, add sweet potatoes, shallot, cinnamon, paprika and red pepper flakes. Season generously with salt and pepper. Cook mixture, stirring occasionally, until sweet potatoes are cooked through and tender, about 15 to 18 minutes.

2. Add diced apples and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes.

3. Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil or butter in a large nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Once hot, crack open eggs and add them to the skillet individually. Season with salt and pepper and cover.

Fry until whites are firm and yolks are slightly runny.

4. Place hash on bottom of plate, top with eggs and sprinkle with crumbled Gorgonzola.

Cafe Mio 2356 US-44, Gardiner (845) 255-4949 miogardiner.com

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The acidity of the Gorgonzola balances the sweetness of the apples and the sweet potatoes, then the richness of the egg brings it together. It’s a nice seasonal, coolweather dish. We have a huge rotating list of specials, and we try to keep them as seasonal as possible and this is one of our fall favorites.

I grew up in Alabama and my grandmother was this great old southern cook. The ingredients came from the garden outside, mostly. Every Thanksgiving, her favorite holiday, it would be a spread— anything you could think of—and one of her dishes was a whipped sweet potato.

She would have the streusel topping with pecans from the garden.

I like sweet-and-salty and brown butter, so I changed it to a brownbutter streusel with fresh herbs.

DONNA HAMMOND / HUDSON STREET CAFE

SWEET POTATO SPOONBREAD Ingredients 4 sweet potatoes 3 cups buttermilk 1 tablespoon Crown Maple maple syrup 6 eggs (separated) 6 tablespoons unsalted butter (melted) 2 teaspoons fresh rosemary, sage and thyme, finely chopped 11/2 cups Wild Hive organic fine grind cornmeal 11/2 teaspoons baking powder 3/4 teaspoons baking soda 3/4 teaspoons salt Method Preheat oven to 350° F. 1. Peel, cube and boil sweet potatoes until soft.

2. Puree the softened sweet potatoes in a food processor until smooth. Set aside.

3. Combine rosemary, sage, thyme, cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda and salt in large bowl.

4. Warm buttermilk in a saucepan over medium-high heat.

5. In a medium bowl, combine sweet potato puree, warm buttermilk, maple syrup, melted butter and egg yolks.

6. Stir wet ingredients into the dry ingredients.

7. Whip egg whites in separate bowl until they form soft peaks.

Fold into mix.

8. Spread mix into ungreased 9-inch by 11-inch pan.

9. Bake at 350° F for 45 to 50 minutes until firm to touch.

Hudson Street Cafe 237 Hudson St, Cornwall-on-Hudson (845) 534-2450 hudsonstreetcafe.com

DONNA HAMMOND / HUDSON STREET CAFE

MEMA’S SWEET POTATO CASSEROLE SWEET POTATO CASSEROLE

Ingredients 6 cups mashed sweet potatoes, boiled and peeled 3 tablespoons brown sugar 1/2 cup orange juice 2 tablespoons bourbon 1/4 cup heavy cream salt and pepper to taste Method Preheat oven to 350° F. 1. Peel, cube and boil sweet potatoes until soft.

2. Mash until smooth.

3. Whip together mashed sweet potatoes, brown sugar, orange juice, bourbon, heavy cream and salt and pepper.

4. Pour into ungreased 9-inch by 11-inch pan. Sprinkle streusel topping evenly over pan [recipe follows].

5. Bake at 350° F for 45 to 50 minutes until golden brown and warmed through.

SWEET-AND-SALTY STREUSEL TOPPING

Ingredients 2 sticks unsalted butter 2 cups brown sugar 2 cups thick-cut oats 2 cups flour 1/2 cup shelled pumpkin seeds, shelled sunflower seeds, crushed walnuts and crushed pecans 1 tablespoon fresh thyme, finely chopped 2 teaspoons fresh sage, finely chopped 2 teaspoons fresh rosemary, finely chopped salt and pepper to taste Method 1. Mix together brown sugar, thick cut oats, flour, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, walnuts, pecans, thyme, sage, rosemary and salt and pepper.

2. Warm a thick-bottomed skillet over medium heat. Slice butter into tablespoons.

3. Add butter to skillet, whisking frequently until browned with nutty aroma.

4. Mix browned butter into dry ingredients until crumbly.

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Al Fresco Restaurant

1036 MAIN ST., FISHKILL 845.896.3600 WWW.ALFRESCORISTORANTE.COM

When you dine at Al Fresco Ristorante your life will have more flavor!

Enjoy an authentic Italian romantic dinner, get together with friends, or plan your special event in one of our three dining rooms. We will make your experience a wonderful memory with fresh, healthy and traditional family recipes utilizing fresh meat, seafood and produce from local farmers.

OPEN SEVEN DAYS A WEEK Sunday 11am-9pm | Monday-Thursday 11:30am-9pm Friday & Saturday 11:30am-10pm

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吀爀攀愀琀 礀漀甀爀猀攀氀昀 琀漀 䄀 䈀伀圀䰀 伀䘀 圀䠀䤀吀䔀 吀刀唀䘀䘀䰀䔀 倀䄀匀吀䄀 ☀ 䄀 䜀䰀䄀匀匀 伀䘀 䈀䄀刀伀䰀伀 昀漀爀 ␀㔀㔀 琀漀 挀攀氀攀戀爀愀琀攀 琀爀甀ӻ攀 猀攀愀猀漀渀 椀渀 倀椀攀搀洀漀渀琀

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伀唀吀䐀伀伀刀 䐀䤀一䤀一䜀 䌀伀一吀䔀䴀倀伀刀䄀刀夀 刀䔀䜀䤀伀一䄀䰀 䘀䄀刀䔀 䴀䄀刀䬀䔀吀 䘀刀䔀匀䠀 匀䔀䄀䘀伀伀䐀 䈀刀䤀䌀䬀 伀嘀䔀一 倀䤀娀娀䄀 䘀刀䔀匀䠀 倀䄀匀吀䄀 伀䘀䘀ⴀ倀刀䔀䴀䤀匀䔀匀 䌀 伀䘀䘀ⴀ倀刀䔀䴀䤀匀䔀匀 䌀䄀吀䔀刀䤀一䜀 䌀䄀刀刀夀ⴀ伀唀吀 匀䔀刀嘀䤀䌀䔀

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HVADC: growing hudson valley agriculture

by david neilsen

S

tarting a business is always a tricky proposition , but starting an agriculture-based business can be especially difficult. On top of researching grants, conducting proposals, creating development strategies and discovering funding opportunities, farmers need to be outside tending crops or caring for livestock. That’s where the Hudson Valley AgriBusiness Development Corporation (HVADC) comes in.

“[Our mission] is to support agriculture with economic development tools, programs and techniques,” explains HVADC founder and executive director Todd Erling. “Primarily that means educating consumers, farmers and entrepreneurs in order to develop the new businesses that are necessary to have agriculture thrive within the Hudson Valley, as well as helping existing businesses grow and diversify.”

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According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s 2012 Census of Agriculture, there are 5,536 farms totaling 898,014 acres within the 12 counties that comprise the Hudson Valley and the surrounding region. The total market value of the agricultural product from those farms is estimated to be over $651 billion. Yet, even that seemingly immense value may only be a small percentage of what the Hudson Valley has to offer in terms of agricultural earnings potential.

“This is one of the best marketing opportunities, not only in the U.S. and North America, but in the world,” Erling stresses. “Whether you’re in Kingston or Hudson or wherever, within a five-hour drive or a 300-mile radius, you can access 60 million mouths.”

In addition to being so close to so many consumers, the Hudson Valley provides a stable water supply, giving it a huge advantage over other, less fortunate agricultural areas.

“It’s a mixed blessing because some of our humidity and some of our water issues are challenges for pest control and production practices,” Erling says. “But at the same time, we’re not going on our fifth year of drought.”

The concept of an agriculturally focused business development company sprouted on April 1, 2004—the day American Farmland Trust (AFT) released its multi-year study, Agricultural Economic Development in the Hudson Valley.

The report examined 13 specific issues facing agribusiness development and recommended actions for each.

The initial American Farmland Trust study came out of a desire to expand the Trust’s mission beyond simply

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preserving land. “You can save the land—but you also need to make sure that the family on the land can make a living,” Erling says. “So that’s where the thought of a study came. What needs to be coupled with land preservation?

What else do we need to do to make sure the land we’re saving remains active and working and viable and not just preserved soil?”

In 2007, Erling and a number of others embarked on an enterprise to help the Hudson Valley agricultural community meet these challenges. “I took four of [the findings] and worked with our founding Board of Directors to create Hudson Valley AgriBusiness Development Corporation and to follow somewhat of a roadmap based on those recommended, implementable actions,” he notes.

As Deputy Director of the Columbia County Economic Development Office at the time, Erling was involved in the AFT study as a stakeholder. The study’s authors were impressed to find that Columbia County, through Erling’s office, already had several agriculture-based economic development projects underway. “We had done a total reorganization of a storage and packing plant; we had helped a fruit processing plant transition to what is now a goat dairy plant; we had done a migrant farm labor housing replacement program where we actually worked with farmers to create a financing program [so] they could replace substandard housing for their agricultural workers,” Erling says. The success of the Columbia County projects led to the obvious: a broader effort that would help startups and other agribusinesses in the Hudson Valley with a regional focus. This was the genesis of HVADC.

You can save the land— but you also need to make sure that the family on the land can make a living.

—Todd Erling

The services of HVADC are divided into four main areas: • Serve as a regional entity and voice for local food systems; • Provide technical assistance and education to farmers and business owners • Help local agricultural businesses find and obtain capital • Educate consumers about local food options within the Hudson Valley.

As a voice for agribusiness within the Hudson Valley, HVADC is involved in policies, programs and strategies on both a regional and state level. “For us, that’s maintaining a footprint as a regional entity and [having] relationships with multiple counties’ economic development and planning offices,” Erling says, “but it also rolls into the governor’s regional economic development councils. We have a formal presence on those and make sure that local food, agriculture and the related systems priorities and have access to the strategy and vision as well as capital.”

The HVADC mission acknowledges that not all farmers or potential entrepreneurs are business-savvy. Its “Incubator Without Walls” program nurtures a business from concept to fruition—from helping to develop a business plan to market analysis to helping with site approval or licensing.

“We try to tailor technical assistance and business education around the critical challenges facing each client,” Erling explains. “They will say ‘We really need a website,’ and we’ll say, ‘Well, first you need a business plan.’”

That’s exactly the issue Hudson Valley Seed Library founder Ken Greene and his partner Doug Muller faced when they decided to turn what had been a small side proj-

ect of Greene’s at Gardiner Public Library into a full-time, farm-based business. “Neither of us had a lot of experience running a business,” Greene, a librarian, admits. “The first thing [HVADC] did was hook us up with a business consultant [who] helped us through the process of creating our first business plan. I feel like that first step of learning how to do the business plan—and really doing it right—got us off on the right foot. I’m not sure we’d be as successful as we are if we hadn’t had that foundation.”

One thing all new businesses need is funding, and one of HVADC’s objectives is to help Hudson Valley agricultural entrepreneurs connect with sources of capital. “That can be loans, that can be grants, crowd funding, socially responsible investing,” Erling notes. “Over the last seven years there have been a lot of new avenues created.”

Jim Hyland, co-owner of Farm-to-Table Co-Packers, in Kingston, had been working with Erling for about 20 years as owner of Winter Sun Farms. When Erling saw a new grant opportunity from Empire State Development Corporation and the New York State Department of Agriculture and Markets, he quickly approached Hyland.

Through that effort, HVADC helped Farm-to-Table Co-Packers to secure a grant that allowed the firm to purchase a much-needed Individually Quick Frozen (IQF) triple-pass freezer. With the infusion, the company also was able to purchase a cooler for the loading dock (“really important,” Hyland says), pallet movers, additional ovens for roasting, labeling equipment, blanching machines, chillers, and then gear up for additional production.

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Ultimately, our goal is to create a thriving local food system. “[HVADC] can make sure that things don’t get overlooked [so] we can take advantage of opportunities that really make sense for us without wasting time on those that don’t,” Hyland says. “They have the ability to help us and say, ‘Hey, here’s a grant opportunity, let’s go for it.’”

HVADC also was instrumental in obtaining funds to help Battenkill Fibers, a Greenwich (Washington County) company that produces yarn and fiber products for wholesale and retail markets. Though the USDA’s Rural Business Development Grant program (RBDG) targets nonprofit businesses for its grant money, HVADC was able obtain the grant and then loan the funds to Battenkill in a dollar-for-dollar match agreement. “[HVADC] prepared the grant, [but the USDA] has to award it to a nonprofit, who essentially lends it to us. So it’s a grant/loan,” explains Battenkill Fibers owner Mary Jeanne Packer. “It’s because of HVADC that this whole expansion project took place.”

The grant/loan approach has proven to be a successful formula for HVADC and is clients, Erling notes. “They make monthly lease payments at a significantly reduced rate, and then we use those payments again to help other businesses in our Incubator Without Walls program each year. We have done it with Farm to Table Co-Packers, we’re doing it with Ronnybrook Farm Dairy, and we successfully had three applications written for craft beverage producers in Sullivan County,” he says.

HVADC also helps businesses connect with potential customers or partners that can help their businesses grow. Kevin Terr, who along with his wife Tamara owns and operates Red Barn Produce, in Highland, one of the Hudson Valley’s most successful produce distributors, acknowledges the role HVADC had in helping expand the business. “[HVADC] helped me out by getting my name into the Poughkeepsie School District and putting in a good word there,” Terr says.

“They also let us know about different farms that were having issues getting their produce to market—we contacted those farms and we’ve become an outlet for their produce.”

Of course, any business is doomed to fail without a market for its product, and regional agribusiness proves to be the rule rather than the exception. “Nationally, the average percentage of local food a consumer consumes is about 1 percent of their total intake and budget,” Erling notes. “Our goal is to see an increase above that within the Hudson Valley.

Ultimately, our goal is to create a thriving local food system.”

To do that requires educating consumers about what they eat and where they can shop for locally sourced products. HVADC’s primary outreach program is Hudson Valley Bounty (hudsonvalleybounty.com), which began as a farm-to-chef network but has grown into a much larger database available to the public. Visitors can use the site to

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—Todd Erling

find a farmers’ market, restaurant or other destination where locally sourced food is featured. The objective is to make it easy for consumers to identify and find local products, thereby creating a sustained demand in the market that will stimulate business growth. In fact, an unmet demand for local products already exists and represents significant potential revenue. New Venture Advisors, an advisory firm dedicated to fostering sustainable agricultural businesses, found that the Hudson Valley region alone has more then $1 billion in unmet demand for locally produced food and beverages (a number that jumps to over $7 billion applied statewide)—not an insignificant amount.

“We’ll see that demand move degree by degree,” Erling notes. “The local food scene and the local food system has really evolved to where there’s a breadth and diversity of ideas and entrepreneurs now that we didn’t see [when HVADC was formed] in 2007. Over the last five years—the last three years in particular—we’ve had an almost 100 percent increase in demand for our services.”

In fact, HVADC will help almost any agricultural business or entrepreneur in the Hudson Valley region—the primary requirement is that the proposed project be truly local, sourcing product from Hudson Valley producers. “We ask potential clients to fill out a very brief summary of their information—we ask them to identify their needs,” explains Mary Ann Johnson, HVADC Projects Director. “We have clients who will check everything, and we have clients who are looking for very targeted assistance.”

The potential viability of a business is a major factor in evaluating a proposal, Erling admits. “We’re not going to put our resources behind someone who says they can turn water into gold—there has to be some reality grounded in it,” he says. Since 2007, HVADC has worked with more than 130 businesses, and its list of success stories reads like a Who’s Who of signature Hudson Valley agribusinesses: Hepworth Farms, Whitecliff Vineyard, The Hudson Standard, Red Barn Produce, Harvest Spirits, Ronnybrook Dairy, Hudson Valley Seed Library, Taliaferro Farms, Farm-to-Table Co-Packers, Hudson Valley Distillers and Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture are all there. The list continues to grow.

And that’s just fine as far as Erling is concerned. “I don’t think you ever reach the horizon,” he says. “Agriculture will always continue to be dynamic and evolve—that’s the nature of it. It’s a business that by default has to change for many reasons: market opportunity, financial pressure, climate, individual events like hurricanes Irene and Lee. It is one of the most dynamic businesses that you can find. And it always will be.”4 Hudson Valley AgriBusiness Development Corporation Hvadc.org

LOCALLY GROWN

generation

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nextredux

u r fa r m i s p ow e r e d b y h u m a n s .

We use tractors and power equipment to mow, prepare fields and help with planting, but most of what happens on the farm is done with human muscle and human hands. If I was asked to name the prerequisites for farming success, I would say a good crew, productive land, a well-considered plan and a robust market—in that order. Lacking a committed, hard-working crew, the farm is like a chair missing a leg.

Over the past 26 years, we’ve had well over 200 young (and sometimes not-so-young) Americans live and work on the farm, usually for six to eight month stretches, with a few staying year-round. Mostly they come here because they want to roll up their sleeves and do productive work that leaves them feeling satisfied, if tired, at

text and photos by keith stewart

the end of the day. They want to use their bodies as well as their brains to mutual benefit. They want to get familiar with the sun, wind and rain, and the sounds, smells and forms of this physical earth. They want to be part of the movement to build a healthy and sustainable food system in America. Many of them hope to acquire land and become farmers in their own right.

This year’s crew is no exception. They come from as far afield as North Carolina, Louisiana, New Mexico. All of them are bright, educated and often surprisingly worldly-wise. Best of all, they’re motivated to get the job done. And one other thing: They help keep an old coot like me from going to seed. That’s a positive.

I asked the current crew to pen a few words on the farming life. Here’s what they had to say.

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A

Peter Porcino

I

After Generations X and Y, I expect we are seeing the rise of Generation Ctrl-Z.

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started at Keith’s in June 2015, just a couple of weeks after finishing college. I grew up in northern New Mexico and came to the Hudson Valley to go to Vassar, where I studied geography. This is my first full time job on a farm.

I enjoy the lifestyle that farming on a small, organic farm allows. Daily life on the farm can be exhausting, but it feels good to work hard, and the work is incredibly rewarding. You become attuned to the gradual transitions of the seasons and minute changes in the ecology of the land you work because they affect your everyday reality. Farming well means responding to those changes and being able to prepare, plant, tend and harvest in ways that are not only productive in the present but also promote the land’s future productivity.

Farming takes will, but the fruits of my labor here have been very tangible (and delicious). I believe in the importance of small-scale food production and in keeping the skills needed for less-mechanized farming alive. Subsistence farming still feeds most of the world’s population; industrial monoculture consumes critical resources in order to feed a much smaller portion of earth’s population (and not well). While the local/organic/farmto-table movement in the Hudson Valley today has made strides toward a more sustainable system, it won’t survive or create enough change without a commitment to lowering the cost of locally grown food. The responsibility for this is not just on farmers who struggle with the costs of land and production—it’s also the responsibility of consumers and others to investigate the complicated reasons that the cost of local/organic food is so high.

—Alicia Robinson-Welsh

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thorough answer to the question “Why farming?” would be as long and circuitous as the route that led me here through myriad jobs at home and abroad. The pleasures of doing physical work outdoors in all manner of weather; the satisfactions of eating produce I remember planting the seeds of several months earlier; the excitement of selling a product I have pride in at market; and the freedom from the desk-bound jobs so many of us love to hate are some of the aspects that drew me most strongly to this lifestyle.

In September, we had a sudden storm come through the farm. What started as a refreshingly breezy and reassuringly distant bit of summer weather soon took on biblical proportions, with the kind of lightning you can taste and the type of rain that comes at you sideways. Except it wasn’t rain—not at first.

The really heavy pounding on the roof turned out to be hail, and in a matter of minutes extensive, irreparable damage had been done to almost all of the fall crops.

Yet, between the way Keith calmly faced up to the “hand we’ve been dealt” and the way we had no choice but to push on, there was an invigorating sense of the real, material volatility of our work (even our lives) in the natural world.

After Generations X and Y, I expect we are seeing the rise of Generation Ctrl-Z. And as the world grows increasingly re-doable and ephemeral, I hope to continue to derive satisfaction from the abiding, if sometimes fickle, materialism of the agricultural life.

—Peter Porcino

Alicia Robinson-Welsh

I

wrote this statement in 2009 for The Valley Table when asked why I wanted to work on a small sustainable farm:

Dan Loeven

The larger food system is a reflection of society’s values, and the conditions on individual farms reflect the souls they feed.

T

homas Jefferson wrote that farmers are the chosen people of God. If he were writing today, he might specify small, sustainable or family farmers as opposed to the industrial giants that produce most of America’s food. It is this distinction that draws me to organic agriculture.

I decided I wanted to be a farmer while studying sustainable development at Appalachian State University. I learned that “conventional” agriculture, like most industries, is responsible for innumerable environmental, economic and social evils, while “sustainable” agriculture is part of a larger movement to improve the condition of life on Earth.

Conventional farm soil is barren and lifeless, only supporting plants with constant additions of chemical fertilizers, like a cheap, fast-food meal. Organic farms are full of life, and work on them provides abundant opportunities to contemplate it. Similarly, the larger food system is a reflection of society’s values, and the conditions on individual farms reflect the souls they feed.

Farming produces something tangible that sustains our physical and cultural bodies. It places us within a larger, complex whole and connects us with the past, just as seeds and knowledge have been passed on for millennia.

Farmers are interconnected with the natural environment and people, depending on both to turn their labor into livelihood. We work within daily, weekly and seasonal rhythms, and deal with unpredictable natural events both destructive and necessary. Farming teaches that most things are out of our control, but it’s still worth trying to make the best out of the given circumstances. For me, sustainable agriculture rests on having faith that nature will provide for us if we cultivate a relationship with it.

—Dan Loeven

Having spent most of the last several years of my life working as a freelance graphic designer, I feel like I’m ready for a change. I’ve had my own garden and found it very satisfying. Now I want to pursue my ideas about sustainability on a farm that demonstrates responsible stewardship of the land and makes eating a healthier aspect of life. I want to get my hands dirty, enjoy the company of others, roast heads of Rocambole garlic and explore the new neighborhood. My interest in farm life is sincere, and I look forward to the work itself and the opportunities that may come up.

I had no farming experience, but during that first season I found a new work I could sink my teeth into. I love what I am doing now and am appreciative of the opportunities that have come up. I learned how to grow organic vegetables and herbs for market; I met my girlfriend while we were both working at the farm; I left to work at other small farms in New York and Massachusetts and then returned to co-manage this farm with Keith, running our farmers’ market stand at Union Square in New York City; I purchased a house nearby—a place to continue growing fresh nutritious food for people to eat.

—Joshua Passe

Joshua Passe

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F

Christoper Krivanek

Farming has strengthened my passion for New York’s rural landscapes and the blood, sweat and tears that farmers, young and old, continue to pour into the soil in order to feed their communities.

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used to barge out of the office early, unable to handle the gray walls, fluorescent lighting and screaming bosses. I couldn’t stand having a job where I wasn’t able to move around.

All day long I looked forward to being able to get up from my desk for a coffee or restroom break. A short walk in any direction felt great.

The final walk out the door felt the best.

I headed to a farmstead in Cincinnati and immediately felt at home in the work. I loved it. It felt like that last few years of unhealthy living were coming right out of my pores.

After Cincinnati, I worked for a short time on a farm in North Carolina. Then I headed back home to northeast Ohio, where I spent over a year working simultaneously on two farms.

One was owned by a metropolitan park system whose mission was to provide agricultural education for local schools. Residing there were several representatives of just about every farm animal, all of which I learned to care for. The other farm primarily grew garlic; working there gave me a new appreciation for growing fresh produce.

The specific pleasures of farming here move in and out of my life together with the seasons. Each year cycles in both new experiences and the return of activities around the farm that I eagerly anticipate. Every April and May, the whole world turns green again and nature grants us permission to carry out our winter plans for cultivating the land.

The first real blasts of cold air in November are startling and welcome, but it’s always a satisfying season. As the twilight of my third year at Keith’s Farm draws near, I sense more than ever that I’ve chosen a fitting path.

—Christoper Krivanek

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ollow Route 32 south of New Paltz for eight miles and you will reach a valley where a weathered red barn sits nestled in 200 acres of overgrown pasture and woods that my great grandfather first settled. A date—May the 10, 1886—is scrawled in black ink on the wall in the oldest wing. My grandfather and his siblings inherited the small dairy farm, though they phased out most agricultural use of the land over the years. Its fate is now grim. A lack of planning regarding its transfer to the next generation, personal differences and the financial burden of owning such acreage threaten its existence as open space. My emotional connection to the land is tied to memories of growing up there.

I spent my summers behind the wheel of the tractor while it crept through the hay fields, my parents stacking square bales on the trailer in tow.

In 2014, with the future of my family’s land in mind, I left my job as a newspaper reporter to apprentice on a small farm near Syracuse.

I was unsatisfied with my life in Long Island’s suburbs, but I also wanted to learn what it felt like to put in a full day’s work in the vegetable fields. I could never have guessed how impactful that first season of farming would be. I fell in love with the early mornings in the dairy barn, the team of draft horses that gracefully cultivated our fields, the way the beef herd galloped into a paddock of fresh grass. I was also in awe of the strong, passionate and tireless people who were so willing to teach me all they knew in exchange for hard work and a good attitude.

Working at Keith’s Farm (my second season farming) has been equally as rewarding—and every bit as challenging. Farming has strengthened my passion for New York’s rural landscapes and the blood, sweat and tears that farmers, young and old, continue to pour into the soil in order to feed their communities. I intend to continue to support the preservation of farmland in whatever capacity I can, not only to honor my family’s legacy, but to protect the irreplaceable natural resources that sustain us.

—Carol Moran

Carol Moran

I Erica Madden

We need more people growing food and caring for the land.

I hope many others join in the effort by starting or working on small, local, ecologically minded farms.

A

fter graduating college and spending many years lingering in the college system, I was living in New Orleans, searching for a direction that supported my values while laboring in a service industry serving food and drinks for an unbalanced diet. I was looking for good health given by exercise, a whole diet, clean water and a supportive community. This is the core of what I want to see in the world.

Finally, I had found work that so simply perpetuated what I believed.

Woody Guthrie called farming “God’s highest calling.” If farming is practiced in an ecological fashion, I think it is more positive than any other endeavor. On the other hand, largescale agriculture and bad farming practices have shown us to be one of the worst things for the environment. We need more people growing food and caring for the land. I hope many others join in the effort by starting or working on small, local, ecologically minded farms.

California’s strict laws on importing agricultural products and the lack of rain helps keeps plant disease in check. On the other hand, the current drought in California is serious and likely the main limiting factor for agriculture in the state right now. I wanted to work in a climate where we are faced with plant disease and learn the skills to problem solve and work around disease, while having access to water.

I am lucky to work for Keith because here we are also exposed to the business of farming.

(We also get a decent wage, which, unfortunately, can be rare in agriculture.) All the planning and flexibility that goes into farming stimulates the mind. I’ve never been more fit and healthy—or happy.

—Erica Madden

first came to Keith’s Farm in the summer of 2011, between my second and third year at Bard College, and then again for part of the season the following year. The first time around I worked here because I needed a dependable summer job, preferably outdoors. I came back because I was interested in learning more about sustainable agriculture. Before coming to Keith’s Farm, my interest in agriculture was very casual. That I keep coming back speaks to the draw of the land and of the work.

Now it is October, and the signs of the season are all around: The winter squash has been pulled in from the field and crated, fall greens stand in quilted multicolor rows ready for harvest, and the days have become shorter and colder.

Over the course of my three stays here, I’ve learned a great deal about how to live well on the land, and how to live well for it. The work can be very difficult and is occasionally tedious, but the living here is good, and the benefits are worth the strain.

—Parker Hatley

Parker Hatley

Organic produce from Keith’s Farm is available Wednesdays and Saturdays at Union Square Greenmarket in New York City.

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䌀䰀伀䌀䬀 吀伀圀䔀刀 䜀刀䤀䰀䰀

䰀唀一䌀䠀 ☀ 䐀䤀一一䔀刀 ㄀㌀ 䌀刀䄀䘀吀 䈀䔀䔀刀匀 簀 䰀䤀嘀䔀 䴀唀匀䤀䌀 䘀伀伀䐀 吀刀唀䌀䬀 簀 䌀䄀吀䔀刀䤀一䜀 簀 倀䄀刀吀夀 嘀䔀一唀䔀 㔀㄀㈀ 䌀䰀伀䌀䬀 吀伀圀䔀刀 䐀刀䤀嘀䔀Ⰰ 䈀刀䔀圀匀吀䔀刀Ⰰ 一夀Ⰰ ㄀ 㔀 㤀 簀 㠀㐀㔀ⴀ㔀㠀㈀ⴀ 㔀㜀㐀 匀吀䄀夀 䤀一 吀伀唀䌀䠀 圀䤀吀䠀 匀倀䔀䌀䤀䄀䰀 䔀嘀䔀一吀匀 䄀一䐀 䴀䔀一唀匀 䄀吀 䌀䰀伀䌀䬀吀伀圀䔀刀䜀刀䤀䰀䰀⸀䌀伀䴀

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to dine and delight

Reserve your spot at Westchester’s top tables.

Westchester County is a premiere dining destination with a robust menu of restaurants to satisfy every appetite. Whether you’re in the mood for breathtaking waterfront views, charming historic ambiance, sleek and modern new spaces or farm-to-table freshness, Westchester is a culinary gem in the Hudson Valley.

Meet and explore Westchester County at VisitWestchesterNY.com

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Historic Rondout

Waterfront Dining

Authentic Barbecue & Comfort Food with a Modern Twist

OleSavannah.com | 845-331-4283 100 Rondout L anding, Kingston, New York

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Monthly Introductory Sessions for prospective parents.

© Fernando Lopez

Busing available from Manhattan!

845.356.2514 www.gmws.org

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text by christine gritmon

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photos by ethan harrison

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u da h k r au s h a a r a n d h i s w i f e

Michele have had full, successful careers in finance and design, respectively, and are prominent members of their northern Westchester County community. They’ve transformed Meadowland Farm, their bucolic weekend home in Dutchess County, into an active agricultural hub, a successful Community Supported Agriculture project and a farming incubator—not bad for folks with decidedly white-collar, non-agricultural backgrounds. Whether it’s because of luck, vision, perseverance, hard work or a combination of all, Meadowland Farm stands as an example of how, with a little creative management, farming in the Hudson Valley can be maintained, and may actually prosper.

Kraushaar grew up in Virginia, about 10 miles outside of Washington D.C., where he saw the farmland around him become developed, acre

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by acre, into buildings and parking lots. The family eventually moved to Chappaqua—within commuting distance of New York City—then set out to find “a 15-acre starter farm,” and spotted the 120-acre Meadowland Farm, just outside of Clinton Corners, in mid-1998. “As soon as I pulled up, I just fell in love,” Kraushaar notes.

Meadowland Farm traces back to the late 1700s. Owned by the Tousey family from 1862 until 1997, the farm has passed through numerous iterations over the years—as a fullservice homestead farm, a dairy, a beef farm and even a stop on the Underground Railroad. The last time the farm was in full production was in the 1950s. When Kraushaar purchased the farm, he retained the services of the seller’s nephew, a teacher who was raising Black Angus beef on the property. (“I probably wouldn’t have bought it had the farmer not stayed

on with us,” Kraushaar admits.) He spent five years restoring the house and historic barn, planted an orchard and opened a weekend roadside stand. Early on, he even tried his hand at vegetable farming, brought in a half dozen sheep (“as front-lawn ornaments—they were more pets than anything”) and chickens for eggs.

When the cattle farmer retired, Kraushaar saw an opportunity to take the farm in a different direction.

“We were trying to be true to the history of the property physically,” he says. “Then it dawned on us that what would be most appropriate here would be to try to bring back agriculture in a way that would be consistent with the heritage of the farm. There’s a real sense of place and purpose here; having and using the open space productively has been important to us.”

Kraushaar ultimately found three farmers. They work Meadowland Farm and share a unique arrangement with Kraushaar: The farmers each pay a small rent for the use of the land and keep all their own profits. “[Michele and I] help them from a broad marketing and branding standpoint,” Kraushaar says, “but what they do operationally on the farm is pretty much up to them—they can do what they want, and they get the proceeds.”

Kraushaar found his livestock farmer in T.J. Baright, 32, who grew up on a farm near Poughkeepsie, raised sheep and excelled in his local 4H Club as a youngster. He’d worked as a herdsman at a local beef farm and was looking to expand his operations when he heard Meadowland Farm was seeking a new farm manager. Baright arrived in 2010 with 65 sheep; his herd has since expanded to include 300 sheep (mainly

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That was my introduction to flowers and that’s what brought me to the Hudson Valley…

I’ve been hooked since then.

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registered Katahdins and horned Dorsets) and 14 cows (Angus/Galloway crosses, Herefords and a few Holstein bulls). There’s also an assortment of rabbits, pigs, seasonal turkeys, some llamas, a few miniature horses—and donkeys (to keep the coyotes away).

Baright sells meat at the roadside farmstand and at the Millbrook Farmers’ Market, as well as to wholesalers and local stores like McEnroe Organic Market in Millerton and the Taste NY store on the Taconic Parkway. Local families purchase whole pigs and lambs for their freezers, as well as quarter and half cows, all custom-butchered. His bacon and sausages—especially the chorizo and rosemary garlic lamb sausage—are customer favorites. The ethnic market (mainly Muslim and Greek Orthodox) continues to grow and has become a significant segment of the business.

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Kraushaar met 28-year-old Diana Cowdery at The Young Farmers Conference at Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture, an annual educational event for beginning farmers. Cowdery had been growing vegetables in her native Virginia but wanted to do something more specialized and creative. She enrolled in the Stone Barns apprenticeship program to learn about farming herbs and flowers. “That was my introduction to flowers and that’s what brought me to the Hudson Valley,” she says. “I’ve been hooked since then—it’s become an obsession. I said [to Kraushaar] that I really just wanted to focus on flowers at that point, and he was open to it.”

She currently grows sunflowers, lysianthus, cosmos, celosia, zinnias and dahlias across three different fields on the farm. She arranges and delivers generous bouquets to her Beacon-

based CSA shareholders weekly via bicycle. “People really appreciate it,” she says. “There are different flowers every week—it changes throughout the season.” She also sells her own floral photography.

Cowdery has tripled her operation over the past year—her second season at the farm—and she has even bigger plans for next season. “Definitely a full acre of flowers next year, which is a lot of flowers!” she says. “I want to get really good at growing dahlias, and I also want to expand my growing season.” She plans to create dried flower arrangements and holiday wreaths until the new year, at which point she’ll take a break before launching into planning for the new season. (“Maybe a vacation—that would be nice!” she laughs.)

Kraushaar manages the Meadowland’s 100-tree orchard, which

I wanted to find people who were highly motivated, but who also could make this a financially sustainable proposition.

includes apples, pears and peaches, and for several years tended the farm’s vegetable garden (“A hobby gone wild!” he jokes), but it became clear that the farm needed a dedicated vegetable grower to expand the operation. The first vegetable farmer he found stayed for a year; then Leah Garrard, 28, came on, also via the Stone Barns apprenticeship program.

Years of travel had introduced her to the elements of farming and solidified her interest. “I just felt ready,” she says.

“I needed to know if I could grow food and I just didn’t feel like I could do that under the weight of somebody else—I would never know if I was just following orders or if I was coming up with a vision, then successfully executing the vision.”

At Meadowland Farm, Garrard grows “a little bit of everything” to provide variety for her CSA members.

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In the spring, that means lots of leaf greens; summer brings the heavier vegetables (squash, cucumbers, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers).

She sells her produce beneath the Meadowland Farm banner at the Pawling Farmers’ Market, to two Westchester restaurants—Bedford 234 and Cafe of Love—and through the online app Farms 2 Tables. She also recently partnered with Baright to offer a meat add-on for the farm’s CSA. Garrard, who will leave the farm after the current growing season, says she considers her year at Meadowland an overall success, despite a few setbacks. “I think I kind of romanticized this idea of farming alone—I realized that I really miss collaboration,” she says. “Yes, it’s been hard in some aspects, but this is good, this honors the quality of life that I want.”

For his part, Kraushaar seems satisfied with the success of Meadowland Farm. The diversity of livestock, fruits, vegetables, flowers and other crops, the CSA structure (current memberships are $500 for a weekly vegetable/fruit share or $750 for a vegetable/fruit share plus a monthly farm-raised lamb or pork share) and market demand for the farm’s meat and produce have all combined to create a dynamic, supportive environment where young farmers can “test their mettle.” And Kraushaar acknowledges that what the farmers give in return is not measured only in dollars and cents.

“I wanted to find people who were highly motivated, but who also could make this a financially sustainable proposition. Right now we’re refining what we have and improving productivity,” he says. “Each of the farmers I really respect. Their passion is infectious.”

4 Meadowland Farm 689 Schultzville Rd, Clinton Corners (845) 554-6142 meadowlandfarmny.com

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adams fairacre farms

comfort and

joy www.adamsfarms.com Poughkeepsie • Kingston • Newburgh • Wappinger

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FARMS, FOOD & MARKETS

winter farmers’ markets and csa listing

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o s t p e o p l e d o n ’ t a s s o c i at e s n o w a n d ice with more than two-dozen bustling winter farmers’ markets, but here in the Hudson Valley, you have the ability to buy local, eat local and love what’s on your table all year long. Bundle up and head to the nearest market today for the finest local vegetables, meat, dairy and artisanal goods. illustration by eliot gee

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2015–2016 WINTER CSA SHARES Bailas Farms 75 Celery Ave, New Hampton Nov to Jan: Every other Tuesday bialasfarms.com/csa-farm-shares Fishkill Farms 9 Fishkill Farm Rd, Hopewell Junction Dec–March fishkillfarms.com Great Song Farm 475 Milan Hill Road, Red Hook Nov–Mar: Every other Tuesday greatsongfarm.com

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Lineage Farm Greenpoint Reformed Church, 136 Milton St, Brooklyn White Plains Presbyterian Church, 39 N Broadway, White Plains Oct 31–Dec 19: Saturdays lineagefarmcsa.com/product/2015-winter-csa Miller’s Crossing 81 Roxbury Rd, Hudson Nov 14–Jan 23: Saturdays farmatmillerscrossing.com/csa-winterveggies.html Paisley Farm 286 Pleasantvale Rd, Red Hook Dec 9–Feb 4: Every other Wednesday upstatefarmsny.com

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Red Oak Farm 331 Delaware Ave Albany Nov 24–Dec 22: Every other Tuesday redoakfarmny.com W. Rogowski Farm 421 Tulaski Hwy Goshen Dec 19–Mar 26: Every other Saturday rogowskifarm.com Roxbury Farm 2501 Rt 9H Kinderhook Dec 4, Jan 8, Feb 5 roxburyfarm.com/store/2240

CoachVTableSummer2015.pdf

2015–2016 WINTER FARMERS’ MARKETS

3/24/15

3:41 PM

Celebrating

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Amenia Winter Farmers’ Market Town Hall, 4988 Rt 22 Dec: Sat 10am–2pm Jan–Apr: 1st & 3rd Sat 10am–2pm www.ameniafarmersmarket.com Callicoon Farmers’ Market Indoor Delaware Youth Center 8 Creamery Rd Nov 15–Apr 17: Sun 11–2 www.sullivancountyfarmersmarkets.org Chappaqua Farmers’ Market Indoor First Congregational Church 210 Orchard Ridge Road Dec 12–Apr 30: Sat 8:30–1 www.chappaquafarmersmarket.org

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Cold Spring Farmers’ Market Indoor MY Episcopal Church of St. Mary-in-the-Highlands 116 Main St CY Nov–Apr: Sat 9:30-1:30 CMY www.csfarmmarket.org

Years of Farmstead Fresh & Aged Goat Cheese, Yogurt and , s r ese yea Milk.

After all th g our

makin we are still y the same. tl cheeses exac iles Cahn -M nder Fou

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Cornwall Farmers’ Market Munger Cottage Senior Center 40 Munger Dr Nov 7–May 21: 1st & 3rd Sat 10–2 www.cornwallny.gov Hastings-on-Hudson Winter Farmers’ Market Hastings-on-Hudson Public Library 7 Maple Ave Dec 5, 19; Apr 2, 16; May 7, 21: 9–1 James Harmon Community Center 44 Main St Jan–March, 1st and 3rd Saturdays: 9–1 www.hastingsfarmersmarket.org Hudson Valley Regional Farmers’ Market Hudson Valley Cerebral Palsy Association 15 Mount Ebo Rd South Year-round: Sun 11–2 www.hudsonvalleyfarmersmarket.org Kinderhook Farmers’ Market Samascott’s Garden Market 65 Chatham St Oct 17–Dec 19: Sat 10–1 www.kinderhookfarmersmarket.com Kingston Farmers’ Market Old Dutch Church 272 Wall St Dec 5–Apr 23: Every other Sat 10–2 www.kingstonfarmersmarket.org Mamaroneck Winter Down-to-Earth Farmers’ Market St. Thomas Episcopal Church 168 W Boston Post Rd Jan 2–Apr 16: Sat 9-1 www.downtoearthmarkets.com/markets

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VISIT OUR FARM STORE RT. 44, PLEASANT VALLEY (845) 635-2018

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Millerton Farmers’ Market Indoor Millerton Methodist Church 6 Dutchess Ave Nov 7–Dec 26: Sat 10–2 Jan 9–Apr 23: 2nd & 4th Sat 10–2 www.millertonfarmersmarket.org

Crown Maple Trio

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Monroe Winter Farmers Market Cornerstone Masonic Lodge 300 Stage Rd Starts Dec 6: Every other Sat 10–2 New Paltz Winter Farmers’ Market New Paltz Community Center Veteran Dr Dec 13–Apr: 2nd Sat 10–3 www.wintersunfarms.com/market.php Newburgh Winter Farmers Market Space Create, 115 Broadway Nov 14–Mar: Every other Sat 12–3 For details: spacecreate0@gmail.com Nyack Winter Farmers’ Market Nyack Center Corner of Depew and S Broadway Dec 3–Mar 31: Thu 8–2 www.nyackchamber.org

10N Chestnut Street, Beacon

TAS T I N G ROOM HOURS Fri 4-8 pm ' Sat 2-8 pm ' Sun 2-6 pm www.DenningsPointDistillery.com

HUDSON VALLEY SAUSAGE COMPANY 85 Vineyard Ave., Highland SAGE, U A S T NES THE FI T & SALUMI WURS

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845-691-9312 Eliasmarket@optonline.net STORE HOURS: Fridays 12-6, Saturdays 9-5, Sundays 10-2 60

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Ossining Winter Down-to-Earth Farmers’ Market Corner of Spring St and Main St Jan 2–May 28: Sat 9–1 www.downtoearthmarkets.com/markets Palisades Indoor Winter Farmers’ Market Palisades Community Center 675 Oak Tree Rd Jan 9–May 21: Sat 9–1 www.palisadescc.org Pleasantville Farmers’ Market Indoor Pleasantville Middle School 40 Romer Ave Dec 5–May (see website): Sat 9–1 www.pleasantvillefarmersmarket.org Poughkeepsie—Vassar College Indoor Market College Center, 129 Raymond Ave Nov 5–Apr 28 (see website): Thu 10–4 www.sustainability.vassar.edu/campusinitiatives/indoor-farmers-market Red Hook—Hudson Valley Farmers’ Market Greig Farm, 229 Pitcher Ln Year-round: Sat 10–3 www.greigfarm.com/hudson-valleyfarmers-market.html Rhinebeck Winter Market Town Hall, 80 East Market St Dec 6–Apr 24 (see website): Every other Sun 10–2 www.rhinebeckfarmersmarket.com

Hahn Farm AllNaturalMeat Angus Beef, Poultry, Pork, Lamb, Turkeys

Naturally raised seasonal produce

Visit our Farm Market

1697 Salt Point Turnpike • Salt Point, NY 12578 266-5042 or 266-3680

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Abundant local vegetables • wine grass-fed / organic meats • cheese pickles • jams • breads • chicken handmade pasta • local honey seafood • dairy and baked goods home made desserts

Rosendale Winter Farmers’ Market Rosendale Recreation Center, 1055 Rt 32 Dec–Apr: 2nd Sun 10-2 www.facebook.com/pages/RosendaleFarmers-Market/232869283220 Saugerties Farmers’ Market Indoor Senior Center, 207 Market St Nov 22 & Dec 20: 10–2 www.saugertiesfarmersmarket.com

Education Programs Agriculture • Environment Grass-fed Meats and Award-winning Cheeses

Farm Market Open Year Round Learn, connect, eat healthy foods. It’s another way to “Save the Children”

South Salem—Gossett’s Farm Market Gossett Brother’s Nursery, 1202 Rt 35 Year-round: Sat 9–1 www.gossettnursery.com Tuxedo Winter Farmers Market Tuxedo Train Station, 240 Rt 17 Dec 12–Apr 9: Every other Sat 10–2 www.tuxedofarmersmarket.com valleytable.com for updates

845.485.8438 (office & general info)

845.485.9885 (market & creamery)

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㄀ ㄀ Market at Todd Hill Store Open

Mon, Wed, Thu: 8 AM - 6 PM Fri: 8 AM - 8 PM Sat, Sun: 9 AM - 7 PM Closed on Tuesday

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An amazing collection of foods and products grown or made in the Hudson Valley.

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Hawthorne Valley Farm Store

From Our Hands to Your Table A full-line natural foods store featuring organic breads, pastries, cheeses,

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raised naturally on open pasture in Warwick, NY

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Warwick NY 10990

(845) 481-3459

yogurt, raw milk, sauerkraut and other foods made fresh on our farm!

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FARM STORE | www.hvfstore.org 327 County Route 21C, Ghent, NY 12075 | 518-672-7500

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Milton, NY 12547

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local flavors

ruralhunan

text and photos by eliot gee

T

here ’ s a damp heaviness to the morning air as the sun struggles to pierce the haze over Soviet-era buildings. A wheezing flatbed truck stops periodically along Old Bridge Street, a soot-covered husband and wife alternately haul stacks of coal cylinders to the front of each restaurant. Wizened ladies carrying bags of produce shuffle past, and parents drag their howling children down the road toward school.

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Without claiming to be anything other than simple nourishment, these street-food dishes demonstrate how Chinese peasants make the most of what the land has to offer.

I watch from a low vantage, seated on a rickety stool, chopsticks ready. The boss, a young Sichuanese woman whose smile betrays a gap between her front teeth, lifts the lid of her gigantic pot and the storefront suddenly is bathed in white steam. For 80 cents, she offers a generous bowl of flat rice noodles in pork bone broth, with bright red chili oil and chunks of pig drifting around the noodles.

(A less dangerous way to start the day is her specialty dao xiao mian, wheat noodles shaved off a large, doughy block and allowed to fall from the knife directly into boiling water. The thick ribbons are spooned into a hearty broth with shiitake mushrooms, seaweed and peppercorns, then passed to the customer in a matter of seconds.)

Each diner chooses condiments from a collection on the table: pickled green beans, finely chopped scallions, chili flakes in oil, minced garlic. There are two unlabeled bottles. The smaller is a light gold sesame oil; the larger black bottle is not what one would expect. There is no soy sauce here to cut the heat; most customers opt for a splash of extra-concentrated black vinegar (the thick fermentation of brown rice has circulatory and digestive health benefits). Unlike the average American Chinese restaurant (which is mainly Cantonese, originating from Guangdong

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Province), it is exceptionally rare to see soy sauce added to Hunanese dishes, over the wok or at the table.

Chinese cuisine is as varied as its people and geography, with different flavors associated with each province and ethnic group. A common Cantonese saying is: “We eat anything with four legs except a table, anything that flies except an airplane.� (A less pleasant version that was told to me in Hunan is, unfortunately, not appropriate here.)

Even the most basic forms of Chinese street food offer individual variation within a limited set of humble ingredients grown around the city and purchased from markets and street vendors. The cheapest and most common dishes are simple stir-fries, in which customers choose one or two key ingredients from a shelf and the Uncle or Auntie decides how they should be cooked. Popular combinations include egg and tomato; smoked tofu with red onions; water spinach and garlic; or minced pork and mushrooms.

Served with a bottomless bowl of rice, these dishes are made for family-style eating. Sharing six dishes among three people guarantees constant conversation about the food, chopsticks stretching across the table.

There are eight major regional cuisines officially recognized in China, each with its own set of spices,

flavors, techniques and specialties. This doesn’t take into account additional outlying influences such as Mongolian, Xinjiang (Muslim) and Tibetan cooking. Guangdong dishes are sweeter than other regional Chinese dishes; they rely heavily on sauces—soy, hoisin, oyster, plum—and with punchy spices such as star anise or five-spice. Sichuanese food, featuring tongue-numbing peppercorns in dishes such as mapo (“spicy grandma”) tofu, balances sour, pungent, hot, sweet, bitter, aromatic and salty flavors.

Hunan lays claim to Xiang cuisine, developed by generations of farmers living in one of the most fertile regions of the south. With access to rivers and lakes, there is an abundance of rice and produce. The food is renowned for being inexpensive, using fresh ingredients and of course, the ubiquitous presence of chili peppers. These dried peppers can be tossed into cooking oil; sliced fresh peppers can be added while stir-frying; pepper flakes can be ladled over food; or pickled peppers can be eaten alongside a dish.

The “dry heat” of these peppers is part of a healthy balance between sweet, bitter and sour flavors. Pickled beans and roots add an extra kick of pungent flavor. Bitter melons complement peppers and garlic (and they strengthen the immune system in the winter).

Hunan boasts provincial specialties such as Mao’s hometown favorite, chou doufu, or stinky tofu (a fermented dish justifiably absent on the average takeout menu). My personal favorite is bao zai fan, in which toppings such as flash-fried eggplant with long beans are deposited onto a thick iron bowl of rice, the outermost layer cooked to crispy perfection and served with a salted duck egg.

Other dishes come from ethnic groups such as the Miao (relatives of the H’mong) and Tujia (literally “Earth Family”).

One popular Tujia specialty is a thin egg pancake wrapped around long, crunchy slivers of potato and tofu cubes.

Without claiming to be anything other than simple nourishment, these street-food dishes demonstrate how Chinese peasants have made the most of what the land has to offer. Although the food can be strictly regional, it is by no means limited. Noodle Lady’s breakfast fare, for example, included influences from many different regions.

In a single roadside noodle stall, about the size of an average American bathroom, one can taste three regions of China. The dao xiao mian originated in the wheatdependent north; the numbing peppercorns are from the boss’s native Sichuan—yet the overall balance of flavors is very much Hunanese.

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TU DOU SI ELIOT GEE Ingredients 3 medium potatoes, julienned 2 tablespoons grapeseed oil 1 tablespoon sesame oil 1 teaspoon minced ginger root 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 or 2 small chili peppers, sliced ½ teaspoon salt (or more to taste) 2 scallions, thinly sliced (both white and green portions) 2 carrots, julienned (optional) 1 medium onion, thinly sliced (optional) dash of rice wine vinegar serves 4 Method 1. While preparing other ingredients, soak the potato slivers in a bowl of water to remove the starch.

2. Pour grapeseed and sesame oil into a wok. Add ginger, garlic, salt and chili pepper. (Sliced peppers are preferable to powder or flakes—you can always eat around or remove the pieces later.)

Add white part of scallion and (optional) onion. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, for about 1 minute.

3. To avoid splatter, drain the potatoes well and place in the hot oil.

If using carrots, add them at this time.

4. Stir fry for 2 minutes over medium heat, then reduce heat to low.

5. Cover the wok and allow mixture to steam cook for 1 minute over low heat. Remove lid, stir for 1 minute, then replace lid.

Alternate between stirring and covering mixture until the potatoes are cooked through but remain crunchy. Be sure not to overcook the potatoes; they should retain a bite.

6. Toss in thinly sliced green scallions.

7. Traditionally served over a bowl of rice with accompanying dishes. Sprinkle a little rice wine vinegar to finish.

Optional serving: Tu dou si also can be wrapped in an egg-flour pancake, Tujia style.

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Earth Beans Elderly women squat on the curb hawking baskets of gnarled tubers; street vendors stir woks full of spicy homefried cubes; restaurants serve up plates of thinly julienned and stir-fried slivers; and spuds are pounded into a paste and stretched into thick, chewy noodles. These are just a few forms in which a visitor to Hunan might encounter a potato. The so-called “earth bean,” originally from South America, made its way to seventeenth-century China on board Portuguese trading ships. While Ming officials regarded it as an exotic delicacy, it eventually spread across the country.

In 1960s Hunan, disastrous famines forced the Communist government to rethink farming policy and shift from communal organization to small-scale family plots.

While farmers harvested large brown potatoes in river valleys like Jishou, Miao tribesmen successfully adapted fingerlings for terraced mountain plots. Today, China is the largest grower of potatoes worldwide.

The following recipe is an adaptation of the versatile tu dou si—spicy shredded potatoes. Much of the pleasure of Chinese peasant cooking is its adaptability. Unlike the Hunan version, my recipe uses a lid to partially steam the potatoes, thereby reducing the amount of oil. The chef is encouraged to make further changes according to individual preferences and availability of ingredients.

4 Eliot Gee recently returned to the Hudson Valley after two years teaching in rural China and Thailand.

伀瀀攀渀 昀漀爀 䐀椀渀渀攀爀 䐀愀椀氀礀 䰀甀渀挀栀 䘀爀椀搀愀礀 ☀ 匀愀琀甀爀搀愀礀 匀甀渀搀愀礀 䈀爀甀渀挀栀

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伀䴀 倀刀䤀嘀䄀吀䔀 刀伀䄀夀 䤀䐀 䰀 伀 䠀 刀 䘀伀 倀䄀刀吀䤀䔀匀 䈀伀伀䬀 一伀圀℀

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Contemporary American dining under the Walkway Over the Hudson. Menu offers seasonal and local foods. Martinis, mixed drinks and fine wines.

Patio dining available under the Walkway Over the Hudson.

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CANTERBURY BROOK INN ZAGAT RATED “EXTRAORDINARY”

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Swiss Continental Cuisine $18.95 3-Course Dinner Tues–Thur

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HANS AND KIM BAUMANN, HOSTS

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RESERVATIONS SUGGESTED

TRADITIONS

mina’s

A

halwa

by mallika rao s a little girl in india , my mother , mina rao ,

would watch her mother cook, picking up Indian recipes to make for herself one day. When she moved to the United States, she brought some of her favorites—including gajar halwa—along with her. Now, it’s my turn to learn some of the secrets of Indian cooking by watching her.

Gajar (carrot) halwa is a popular Indian dessert of cooked carrots, nuts and raisins. My mother fondly recalls her mother making the dessert during the winter. “We used to look forward to it in our household when we were young during the wintertime because in north India, where I grew up, the vegetables were always seasonal,” she says. “We couldn’t get everything, every time, all the time—we would only have certain vegetables at certain times of the year. Carrots would come in the wintertime; they were abundant and cheap. Now [in the U.S.], of course, you can find carrots any time of the year and pretty much anywhere. It’s not something you have to wait for.”

On the other hand, this dessert is so rich and sugary that she’s careful not to serve it too often. “I want all of us to follow healthier diets and lifestyles, so dessert has to be done occasionally and in moderation,” she notes.

“I reserve [making halwa] for special occasions—once or twice a year.”

Halwa typically is prepared for festive occasions like Diwali (the Festival of Lights) which usually comes in November. It is served as part of a meal consisting of appetizers such as pakoras (vegetable fritters served with various chutneys) and dahi vadas (lentil dumplings soaked in yogurt sauce), followed by main dishes like vegetable pulao (vegetable rice), dal (lentil soup) or chole (spicy chickpeas), aloo gobi (spiced potato and cauliflower mixture), mutter paneer (cheese and peas with gravy) and pooris (fried breads). Papad (a type of cracker) and pickles are normally served on the side as condiments.

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GAJAR HALWA MINA RAO Ingredients 3 pounds carrots, rinsed, peeled and grated (by hand or in a food processor) 6 tablespoons ghee (clarified butter) 1 teaspoon cardamom powder (available in Indian markets) 1/4 cup roasted unsalted cashews, slivered, chopped or whole 1/4 cup slivered almonds 1/4 cup raisins 1 14-ounce can low-fat sweetened condensed milk serves 12 Method 1. Melt the ghee in a big, heavy stainless steel or nonstick pot over medium heat.

2. Add the grated carrots and sauté, stirring often, until soft—about 30 minutes.

3. Add the condensed milk and continue cooking over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the mixture thickens and is almost dry, about 25 minutes.

4. Reduce heat and add nuts, raisins and cardamom powder.

Mix well and cook over low heat another 5 minutes.

5. Remove the pot from the heat and allow the halwa to cool.

Garnish with additional nuts if desired. Serve warm or chilled.

The dessert will keep in the refrigerator for a week.

My mother loved this dessert so much that she would relish it every time it was made as if she was never going to have it again. “I would eat ‘til the last little bit. I would put my finger at the end of the bowl and just lick the whole thing,” she recalls. (She always ate the leftover raisins first, and so do I.) For people unfamiliar with Indian cooking or perhaps are intimidated by the high levels of spiciness often found in Indian recipes, a little background may help. First, each region in India tends to use different, distinctive spices and, second, northern Indian cooking and southern Indian cooking couldn’t be more different. Southern Indian cooking relies heavily on curry or rasam powder (a mixture of coriander, cumin and fenugreek seeds and other spices); in northern India, the staple spice is garam masala (literally “hot mixture”), the actual components of which vary by location. Northern Indian dishes tend to contain poultry, particularly chicken, as well as lamb; in southern India, vegetarian dishes predominate and most meat is excluded.

Each region has a food item that is central to its cuisine.

For northern India, it’s bread (or naan), while those in southern India primarily consume rice. (Perhaps the different climate of each region explains the preferences—northern India is practically surrounded by mountains and rivers, while southern India is a peninsula bounded on three sides by the Indian Ocean, the Arabian Sea and the Bay of Bengal.)

Whether you’re most familiar with northern or southern Indian cooking, this halwa dessert might be a revelation. The dish is most common in northern India, and it takes about two hours from start to finish. The time here is mostly in the prep (northern Indian dishes traditionally require a lot of meticulous preparation)—in this case, peeling and grating three pounds of carrots (more or less, depending on how many people you are serving).

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Some people are intimidated by the complex ingredients and cooking methods in Indian cuisine but, according to my mom, improvisation is the key.

Indian ingredients such as ghee and cardamom powder can be found in most Indian grocery stores. (Some popular markets in the Hudson Valley include Krishna Indian Grocery in Poughkeepsie; Saraswati Groceries in Wappingers Falls; Sitar Indian Grocery in Orangeburg; MGM Indian Grocery in Congers; and Bombay Market in Nanuet.) Some of the more commonly used Indian ingredients and spices are also starting to show up in a few mainstream markets.

Some people are intimidated by the complex ingredients and cooking methods in Indian cuisine but, according to my mom, improvisation is the key. “It’s a matter of experimenting and building on one’s success,” she stresses.

“The first time you may not get it exactly as you may have eaten in a restaurant, but you can modify and try again.

Different people have different tastes—some may like the taste of cilantro, others may not. So you can add different spices and put your own spin on it.”

Also, my mother advises Indian cooking novices to do their homework. There are countless websites, blogs and YouTube videos that explain preparation and demonstrate technique. Some good blogs that may be helpful include indiansimmer.com, hookedonheat.com and mallikabasu. com. (If you’re from the “old school” and are more comfortable holding an actual printed recipe in your hands rather than watching a YouTube video, each of the bloggers on these sites offers at least one cookbook for sale.)

So, roll up your sleeves, take your time, and improvise.

Happy Indian cooking!

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Mallika Rao is a senior in communications/journalism at Marist College. She is a former intern at The Valley Table.

DRINK

hudson valley whiskey:

a tasting

text by timothy buzinski | photos by eva deitch

T

h e r e a r e f e w m o r e s at i s f y i n g w i n t e r t i p p l e s

than a glass of whiskey. A finger or two of warming spirits charms many of us on a cold winter’s night.

Perhaps the sheer number of such nights in the Hudson Valley has spurred local distilleries to produce a number of superior whiskies—including rye, white, corn, bourbon, single malts and special blends.

With the profusion of local distillers, you might think that finding a local whiskey that suits your personal taste would be easy—but with more than 50 available (at last count), where do you start?

We brought a group of drink enthusiasts with varying degrees of experience and expertise—from casual drinker to expert mixologist—together to sample and evaluate Hudson Valley whiskies. They tasted their way through 30 in all and found a satisfying spectrum of

spirits being produced with a distinct American style.

Meet the tasters: Kelly Verardo, consultant and expert mixologist, currently at the Harrison Room of Pier A Harbor House in New York; Jason Schuler, bar man and founder of More Good, a Beacon-based manufacturer and retailer of hand-crafted soda syrup concentrates, teas and bitters; Jerry Novesky, editor of The Valley Table; and Tim Buzinski, The Valley Table Drink columnist, a Culinary Institute of America graduate and owner of Artisan Wine Shop, a retail wine and spirit store in Beacon.

By definition, whiskey is a spirit distilled from fermented grain mash then aged in wooden barrels. Perhaps more than any other distilled spirit, whiskies are rich and diverse in flavors. While the aging process makes a difference, it starts with the grain. Grain varieties include wheat, rye, barley and corn.

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a pouring and tasting vocabulary

THE POUR The most basic request for an order of whiskey might be for two fingers, either straight up or neat.

The former refers to the depth of whiskey—it roughly corresponds to the height of two fingers on the side of the glass; straight up and neat simply mean “without ice.”

TO OPEN A few drops of water or a single ice cube literally “opens” the whiskey, allowing a wider range of aromas and flavors to escape. Furthermore, when considering higher-strength whiskies (cask strength, barrel strength, high-proof or overproof), a bit of dilution is wise.

THE ICE There are several schools of thought on what kind of water to use when making ice. If your water is a highly chlorinated city variety, consider using bottled water—“chlorine” is not a term you want to use when describing the nose of a whiskey. The key factor when using ice is to use a large piece—it will chill the whiskey quickly with minimum dilution.

The shape of the ice also can be considered. Flexible, soft rubber or plastic molds are available that make extra-large cubes or spherical ice “balls” that, in addition to being visually appealing, have a smaller surface area than an equal amount of water frozen in a standard “cube” shape, further slowing dilution. If large cubes aren’t an option, a quick swirl of the drink with ice, removing it before it melts, will have just about the same effect—it will open the aromas and cool the dram slightly.

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Bourbon Take bourbon, for instance. It’s 51 percent corn, and is aged in new charred oak barrels. You may have heard, “all whiskey is not bourbon, but all bourbon is whiskey.”

The mash bill and aging process determine stylistic differences among bourbons. Many aficionados develop elaborate tasting grids to chart each taste that emerges in a bourbon, its focus on the grain or on certain spices (such as cinnamon or nutmeg) or other, more mellow notes. All bourbons share one characteristic: a distinct caramel nose and flavor imparted by the casks used to age the whiskey. This is particularly evident in Black Dirt Distillery’s Bourbon ($46, 750 mL), the latest batch aged three years in new American oak barrels.

Of course, there also is a robust cocktail culture surrounding bourbon, and drinks like an Old Fashioned draw on the richness of the corn for a mellow introduction, highlighted by a few dashes of bitters and a whiff of citrus on the nose.

And just to clarify: while bourbon got its name from Bourbon County, Kentucky, (around 1800), and while Kentucky remains the epicenter for bourbon production today, contrary to popular opinion, there is no limitation or requirement as to where a bourbon must be produced (like Champagne). Kentucky may be famous for its bourbon, but the whiskey may come from anywhere--including the Hudson Valley.

Rye While rye’s popularity diminished in the surge to produce a naturally richer, sweeter bourbon from less-expensive corn, rye whiskey production in the U.S. never ceased entirely. (Canadian distillers are quick to remind us that rye-based whisky was widely produced north of our border and readily available even when supplies were thin here at home.) Current regulations for rye production closely echo those for bourbon, the difference being the use of at least 51 percent rye rather than corn. The difference in taste between a corn-based whiskey and a rye-based whiskey, however, is startling: Rye offers none of the sweetness of corn, but rather opens up with a spicy, herbal flare that can tingle the palate. It’s a complex taste experience that can be challenging for neophyte sippers, but it’s precisely that characteristic that has led to the modern resurgence and interest in rye. Mixologists have eagerly embraced the new ryes, a good example being Coppersea Distillery’s Raw Rye Whiskey ($60, 750 mL). With its striking floral, fruit and pepper notes, it invites crafting both new and classic cocktails that draw on the grain’s distinctive character.

The Manhattan is an essential rye drink that allows the spice of the grain to shine, balanced by a little sweetness from a good Italian vermouth. Similarly, a Sazerac is a bold entry into the world of rye-based cocktails—the absinthe rinse interplays wonderfully with the spice of a good rye.

If the myriad local whiskies described here don’t make your head spin, maybe this will: Conventional guides decree that whisky distilled anywhere but America and Ireland be spelled without the “e”—Americanmade whiskey includes the cute little vowel. That’s all the grammar you need for one day.

Rye offers none of the sweetness of corn, but rather opens up with a spicy, herbal flare that can tingle the palate.

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DOWN WHERE THE MOON DON’T SHINE Corn whiskey emerged as the dominant American spirit throughout the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.

Because corn was cheap to grow or purchase, it was relatively easy to set up a clandestine operation to distill moonshine—the term used to describe the illegal, unregulated, untaxed, usually potent and sometimes dangerous corn liquor. The term also is commonly used to describe any illegal (untaxed) liquor.

DEATH AND TAXES As Secretary of the Treasury, Alexander Hamilton knew a good revenue source when he saw one, and when he proposed an excise tax on distilled spirits to help pay off the federal Revolutionary War debt, President Washington promptly signed it into law in 1791, making whiskey the first domestic product to be taxed. That spawned The Whiskey Rebellion, the loosely organized, sometimes violent confrontations between federal tax agents and distillers.

Centered mainly in western Pennsylvania and Kentucky, the protests lasted several years and made it difficult, if not impossible, to collect the tax. Thomas Jefferson repealed it in 1801.

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Wheat Whiskey Of all the whiskies in production here in the U.S., wheat whiskey probably is the most underappreciated. This is surprising, since wheat-based whiskey delivers so many of the pleasurable elements whiskey drinkers seek. According to Brendan O’Rourke, chief distiller at Tuthilltown Spirits, the wheat in a typical whiskey blend would contribute more weight and texture to the dram, though rye and corn would act as major flavor components.

When evaluating a wheat whiskey, the first notable characteristic is the color—a beautiful amber hue. The aromas and flavors are gentle, allowing varied nuances to come through (drinkers are often able to suss out hints of grass and floral aspects), while the finish can be long and pleasant.

Wheat whiskies are excellent for sipping neat, or as a substitute in a Whiskey Sour or even a Manhattan.

White (Un-Aged) Whiskey Un-aged, or white, whiskies may be produced from a single or blend of grains—each grain brings its own unique characteristics to the glass. Corn whiskey is by far the most popular of the un-aged whiskies. It must be produced from a mash bill of at least 80 percent corn; flavors focus on the corn and the nuances drawn from the grain itself—sometimes sweet, sometimes spicy.

Corn whiskies pack a punch, however, and often are best used in cocktails. Mixologists use them in updated versions of classic cocktails like a White Mint Julep. Rye Dog Unaged Rye ($41, 750 mL), from Delaware Phoenix Distillery in Walton, offers a wide range of woodsy and herbal aromas perfect for a White Manhattan.

American Whiskey For distillers who want to produce a spirit with a somewhat different profile, perhaps using an unconventional blend of grains, the option to classify their creation as American whiskey is useful. Regulations governing fermentation and percentage of alcohol apply, but the whiskey designation simply requires the use of grain, and aromas and tastes characteristic of a whiskey. The important point is the freedom this designation gives distillers—this catch-all category provides a platform on which to introduce new styles. Catskill Distilling Company’s Otay Buckwheat ($70, 750 mL), for example, is technically not a whiskey (buckwheat is a cereal, not a grain), but creative mixologists can use the 80 percent buckwheat, 20 percent corn and malted barley blend to introduce new flavors to new (or old) cocktail recipes.

tasting notes

Single Malt The term “single malt,” often associated with scotch, sometimes leads to confusion, in part due to the name and its origins. First and foremost, only whisky distilled in Scotland can be labeled scotch. In Scotland, whiskies typically are made using a blend of malts and grains produced in various regions; single-malt scotch must be produced from a single malted barley and distilled at a single location.

American craft distillers generally produce single malts, but there is a vast contrast in style between a traditional scotch and its U.S. counterpart due to the required aging in new charred oak. Single-malt scotch typically is aged in used oak that previously may have held sherry, port or even bourbon— and the barrels contribute subtle nuances to the flavor of the whisky aging inside. American versions, amped with oak notes from spices to cocoa, offer a new and different experience, whether sipped straight up or used in traditional scotch-based cocktails, like a Bobby Burns (an oak-assertive single malt combined with the herbaceous notes of Bénédictine and the sweetness of red vermouth). John Henry Single Malt Whiskey from Harvest Spirits ($56, 750 mL) offers a typical American single malt nose with interesting notes of apple.

BLACK DIRT DISTILLERY

Black Dirt Bourbon This whiskey is deep in flavor, spice, oak, grain; there are a myriad of drinks waiting to be mixed with this.

CATSKILL DISTILLING CO.

Wicked White A blend of several grains, this whiskey has a subtlety that makes it very approachable and cocktail-ready.

Most Righteous Bourbon A down-to-earth bourbon, great for a Whiskey Sour.

Otay Buckwheat While technically not a whiskey (buckwheat is a cereal, not a grain), this drinks a little peaty, with mushroom-y notes. Good sipped or used in conjunction with a whiskey for new flavors in cocktails.

COPPERSEA DISTILLERY

Corn Whiskey Aged in used barrels, this is a smooth, fruit-focused corn whiskey, good even sipped.

Raw Rye Whiskey This rye has lots of character, layered and surprising. It would be great for a cocktail, perhaps a Boulevardier.

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ORANGE COUNTY DISTILLERY

Corn Whiskey Straightforward, corn-focused—a good example of the style. Use for mixing.

DELAWARE PHOENIX DISTILLERY

Rye Dog Unaged Rye Woodsy and herbal, this rye offers a wide range of aromas. Try it in a White Manhattan.

Bourbon The layered, spicy bite of this whiskey makes it versatile to sip or mix.

DENNING’S POINT DISTILLERY

Denning’s White Rye Whiskey With its strong nose but smooth, fruitful palate, this rye would be great to experiment with in vodka-based cocktails.

Beacon Whiskey Though distilled elsewhere, this whiskey is blended here. It offers loads of caramel and spice—great for beginners to sip before and after dilution or in almost any bourbonbased cocktail.

HARVEST SPIRITS

HILLROCK DISTILLERY

Solera Aged Bourbon A solera is a system of fractional blending; this whiskey shows a bit of complexity in an almost oxidative, sherry-like way. Sip this neat or with a large cube.

Double Cask Rye This has a big rye flavor profile— deep and complex enough for the experienced, it would be an intriguing introduction for those new to rye, as well. Great for sipping

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Bourbon Whiskey With a sweet, smooth entry, this is a good all-around bourbon. Pour it over a large cube or use in classic cocktails.

Rye Whiskey This rye offers good complexity and a lovely interplay between spice notes and sweetness. It and would be great with a mixer.

STILLTHEONE DISTILLERY

287 Single Malt Whiskey An interesting, unique single malt made using Captain Lawrence Freshchester Ale—you can taste the beer. Good for experimental sippers or in a beer cocktail.

TACONIC DISTILLERY

Straight Bourbon Whiskey An easy, accessible option, good for a punch-style cocktail.

Catskill Distilling Co. 2037 Rt 17B, Bethel (845) 583-3141 catskilldistillingcompany.com Coppersea Distilling 1592 Rt 9W, West Park (845) 444-1044 coppersea.com Delaware Phoenix Distillery 144 Delaware St, Walton (607) 865-5056 delawarephoenix.com Denning’s Point Distillery 10 N Chestnut St, Beacon (845) 230-7905 denningspointdistillery.com Harvest Spirits Distillery Golden Harvest Farms 3074 Rt 9, Valatie (518) 253-5917 harvestspirits.com Hillrock Estate Distillery 408 Pooles Hill Rd, Ancram (518) 329-1023 hillrockdistillery.com

TUTHILLTOWN SPIRITS

“John Henry” Single Malt Whiskey This single malt presents interesting notes of apple, with big, up-front flavors and a soft finish. It may be sipped or perhaps used where Calvados would be in other cocktails.

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Unaged Single Malt Whiskey The nose is a delicate peat, though there is a lot going on here. This single malt begs for cocktail experimentation.

Black Dirt Distillery 114 Little York Rd, Warwick (845) 258-6020 blackdirtdistillery.com

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Manhattan Rye A good, spicy rye, with the bite one would expect. Try this sipped neat.

Orange County Distillery 19 Maloney Ln, Goshen (845) 651-2929 orangecountydistillery.com

Four Grain Bourbon This classically styled bourbon shows all the elements that a bourbon should have. The quintessential cold-day, fireplace sipper.

Still The One Distillery 1 Martin Pl, Port Chester stilltheonedistillery.com

Maple Cask Rye Whiskey This rye offers a subtle, delicate hint of maple (not surprising, since the aging casks are from Crown Maple syrup). Try this in a Black Manhattan Double Charred Whiskey A blend of bourbon and rye, the “double charred” casks are remnants of a fire at the distillery. It’s bold and smoky, with big flavors but a smooth finish. Easy to sip.

Taconic Distillery Stanfordville (845) 393-4583 taconicdistillery.com Tuthilltown Spirits Distillery 14 Grist Mill Ln, Gardiner (845) 255-1527 tuthilltown.com

HRYN’S T A C Tuscan Grill Serving Lunch & Dinner Daily

Globally InspIred, loc ally sourced.

Prix Fixe

Sparkling Sunday Brunch Noon– 3 pm

Serving Lunch & Dinner.

Closed Tuesdays.

Wine Bar & Cocktail Lounge with Late Night Lounge Menu Available 91 Main Street, Cold Spring, NY 845.265.5582

One King Street, Marlboro, NY

“America’s 1,000 top Italian Restaurants” Zagat

PerchMarlboro.com

845-236-3663

www.TuscanGrill.com

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INDEX TO ADVERTISERS

PAGE 22 Ace Endico / aceendico.com 81 Adam Kurtz / 914.850.4645 55 Adams Fairacre Farms / adamsfarms.com 32 Al Fresco / 845.869.3600 33 Aroma Osteria / 845.298.6790 / aromaosteriarestaurant.com 90 Barb’s Butchery / 845.831.8050 / barbsbutchery.com 64 Beacon Natural Market / 845.838.1288 / beaconnaturalmarket.com 46 Beacon Pantry / 845.440.8923 / beaconpantry.com 4 Blu Pointe / 845.568.0100 / blu-pointe.com 64 Bluestone Bistro / 845.462.1100 / bluestonebistrony.com 85 Brother’s Trattoria / 845.838.3300 / brotherstrattoria.com 10 Buttermilk Falls Inn & Spa / 845.795.1310 / buttermilkfallsinn.com 71 Café Amarcord / 845.440.0050 / cafeamarcord.com 93 Café Mio / 845.255.4949 / miogardiner.com 93 Caffe Macchiato / 845.565.4616 / addressyourapetite.com 72 Canterbury Brook Inn / 845.534.9658 / canterburybrookinn.com 81 Cathryn’s Tuscan Grill / 845.265.5582 / tuscangrill.com 45 Clock Tower Grill / 845.582.0574 / clocktowergrill.com 59 Coach Farm / 518.398.5325 / coachfarm.com C4, 69 Cosimo’s / cosimosrestaurantgroup.com 24 Craft 47 / 845.360.5253 / craft47.com 72 Crave Restaurant & Lounge / 845.452.3501 / craverestaurantandlounge.com 60 Crown Maple at Madava Farms / crownmaple.com 95 Culinary Institute of America / 845.471.6608 / ciarestaurants.com C3 Daily Planet Diner / 845.452.0110 / dailyplanetdiner.com 60 Dennings Point Distillery / denningspointdistillery.com 83 Dish Bistro & Wine Bar / 845.621.3474 / dishmahopac.com 88 Ella’s Bellas / 845.765.8502 / ellasbellasbeacon.com 1 Ethan Allen / 845.565.6000 / ethanallen.com 63 Fishkill Farms / 845.897.4377 / fishkillfarms.com 11 Fresh Company / 845.424.8204 / freshcompany.net 10 Frida’s Bakery & Cafe / 845.795.5550 / fridasbakeryny.com 56 Garrison, The / 845.424.3604 / thegarrison.com 93 Gino’s Restaurant / 845.297.8061 / ginoswappingers.com 61 Gossett’s Farmers’ Market / 914.763.3001 / gossettbrothersnursery.com 70 Gourmet to Go / 845.677.5400 / gourmettogony.com 47 Green Meadow Waldorf School / 845.356.2514 / gmws.com 61 Hahn Farm / 845.266.3680 7 Half Moon / 914.693.4130 / halfmoonhudson.com C2 Harvest on Hudson / 914.478.2800 / harvesthudson.com 62 Harvest Spirits / 518.253.5917 / harvestspirits.com 63 Hawthorne Valley Farm / 518.672.7500 / hawthornevalleyfarm.org 72 HealthQuest / 800.421.1220 / health-quest.org 2 Hop, The / 845.440.8676 / thehopbeacon.com 93 Hudson Street Cafe / 845.534.2450 / hudsonstreetcafe.com 61 Hudson Valley Fresh / hudsonvalleyfresh.com 60 Hudson Valley Sausage Company / 845.691.9312 44 HVNN / hvnn.com 34 Hyde Park Brewing Company / 845.229.8277 / hydeparkbrewing.com 33 Il Barilotto / 845.897.4300 / ilbarilottorestaurant.com 86 Il Portico / 845.365.2100 / ilportico.com 46 Irving Farm Coffee Roasters / irvingfarm.com 92 J&J Gourmet / 845.758.9030 / jandjgourmet.com 62 Jones Farm / 845.534.4445 / jonesfarminc.com 70 Joseph’s Steakhouse / 845.473.2333 / josephs-steakhouse.com

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PAGE 83 Le Express / 845.849.3365 / lexpresshv.com 64 Leo’s Ristorante & Bar / leospizzeria.com 63 Lowland Farm / 212.867.6376 / lowlandfarm.com 56 M&T Bank / mtb.com 86 Main Course / 845.255.2600 / maincoursecatering.com 93 Maybelle’s / maybellesny.com 23 Mid Valley Wine & Liquor / 845.562.1070 / midvalleywine.com 89 Mill Restaurant & Bar, The / 845.204.9083 / millpk.com 24 Mill House Brewing Company / 845.485.BREW / millhousebrewing.com 12 Mohegan Lake Audi / 914.528.8076 / moheganlakeaudi.com 10 Mother Earth’s / motherearthstorehouse.com 11 N&S Supply / nssupply.com 24 Nina / 845.344.6800 / nina-restaurant.com 63 Nostrano Vineyards / 845.795.5473 / nostranovineyards.com 47 Ole Savannah Southern Table & Bar / 845.331.4283 / olesavannah.com 62 Orange County Distillery / 845.651.2929 / orangecountydistillery.com 56 Orange County Farmers Markets / orangetourism.org/farms C3 Palace Diner / 845.473.1576 / thepalacediner.com 95 Pamal Broadcasting / pamal.com 22 Pamela’s Traveling Feast / pamelastravelingfeast.com 81 Perch / 845.236.3663 89 Poughkeepsie Ice House / 845.232.5783 / pkicehouse.com 59 Quattro’s Poultry Farm & Market / 845.635.2018 88 Queen City Bistro / 845.337.4684 / queencitybistro.com 84 Red Barn Produce / 845.691.7428 C3 Red Line Diner / 845.765.8401 / dineatredline.com 91 Restaurant 1915 / 845.786.2731 x.1915 63 Rhinebeck Farmers Market / rhinebeckfarmersmarket.com 32 RiverMarket Bar & Kitchen / 914.631.3100 / rivermarketbarandkitchen.com 34 Riverview Restaurant / 845.265.4778 / riverdining.com 34 Roundhouse, The / 845.765.8369 90 Samaki, Inc. / 845.858.1012 / samakismokedfish.com 83 Shawangunk Wine Trail / gunkswine.com 92 Sour Kraut / 845.358.3122 / sour-kraut.com 61 Sprout Creek Farm / 845.485.8438 / sproutcreekfarm.org 62 Stoutridge Vineyard / 845.236.7620 / stoutridge.com 3 Sullivan County Visitors Association / 800.882.CATS / scva.net 22 Sunflower Natural Foods Market / 845.679.5361 / sunflowernatural.com C3 Table Talk Diner / 845.849.2839 / tabletalkdiner.com 62 TasteNY Store at Todd Hill / 845.849.0247 87 Terrapin Restaurant / 845.876.3330 / terrapinrestaurant.com 70 Thyme / 914.788.8700 / thymerestaurant.net 23 The Vault / 845.202.7735 / thevaultbeacon.com 92 Village Tea Room / 845.255.3434 / thevillagetearoom.com 9 Warren Kitchen & Cutlery / 845.876.6208 / warrenkitchentools.com 64 Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery / wvwinery.com 70 West Main Bar & Kitchen / 845.297.0510 / westmainkitchenandbar.com 46 Westchester County Tourism / 800.833.9282 / westchestertourism.com 62 Whitecliff Vineyard / 845.255.4613 / whitecliffwine.com 2 Wickham Solid Wood Studio / jessica-wickham.com 89 Wildfire Grill / 845.457.3770 1 Williams Lumber & Home Center / 845.876.WOOD / williamslumber.com 11 Would, The / 845.691.9883 / thewould.com 12 Xaviar’s at Piermont / 845.359.7007 / xaviars.com

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DIRECTORY

ART

Newburgh Art Supply 5 Grand St, Newburgh (845) 561-5552; newburghartsupply.com Mon-Thur 10-6; Fri 11-7; Sat 10-6; Closed Sun See, feel and experience quality art materials in one of Newburgh’s restored landmarks in the heart of the Washington Market neighborhood. Your local source for essential creative supplies for the student, professional and enthusiast. Newly renovated and stocked!

AUTO

Mohegan Lake Audi 1791 E Main St, Mohegan Lake (914) 528-8076; moheganlakeaudi.com Authorized Audi & Volkswagen retailer.

Why buy anywhere else?

B A K E R I E S

The Alternative Baker 407 Main St, Rosendale (845) 658-3355; lemoncakes.com

Open 7am Thur-Mon; Closed Tue-Wed Twenty years of small-batch, scratch, handmade all-butter baked goods has been our promise. We also offer gluten-free and other allergy-friendly options, plus made-to-order sandwiches for breakfast, lunch or a light supper.

All-vegan vegetable soups in season, hot mulled New York cider, an array of JB Peel coffee and Harney teas, artisanal drinks, plus our award-winning Belgian hot chocolate. Special-occasion cakes made to order. Seasonal desserts change through the year. Unique wedding cakes for a lifetime’s treasure. All “Worth a detour”—(NY Times). Truly “Where Taste is Everything.”

Ella’s Bellas 418–420 Main St, Beacon (845) 765-8502 Mon & Wed 8–5; Thu–Sat 8–7; Sun 9–4; closed Tue Ella’s Bellas believes that an indulgence should taste like an indulgence regardless of our dietary restrictions. We specialize in gluten-free products, but we promise you won’t know the difference.

the table, the elemental enjoyment of eating and drinking well.

B R E W E R I E S

Hyde Park Brewing Co. 4076 Albany Post Rd, Hyde Park (845) 229-8277; hydeparkbrewing.com Mon & Tue 4–10; Wed & Thu 11–10; Fri & Sat 11–midnight; Sun 11–9 C A T E R I N G

Fresh Company PO Box 187, Garrison (845) 424-8204; freshcompany.net At our kitchen one hour north of Manhattan in the Hudson Highlands, we gather great local and imported ingredients for events of all sizes and pocketbooks, from grand affairs to drop-off parties. True to our name, we emphasize the freshest, finest ingredients, because great food is the spark that ignites a convivial gathering. Executive chef Shelley Boris draws inspiration from cooking styles from around the world. Her distinct, warm style is reflected in meals that encourage hospitality and leisure at

Gourmet to Go (845) 677-5400; gourmettogony.com Since 1992, a full-service off-premise caterer offering a wide range of locations. Our fine reputation is based on years of consistency and superb service. We specialize in weddings, corporate events, cocktail parties, holiday parties, outdoor barbecues and even boxed lunches. Creative cuisine, exceptional presentation and professional service, taking every event from start to finish flawlessly.

J&J Gourmet 1 E Market St, Red Hook (845) 758-9030; jandjgourmet.com Mon–Fri 7–5; Sat 8–4:30; Sun 9–4 Serving Red Hook, Rhinebeck, Poughkeepsie, Hyde Park and surrounding areas in Dutchess County, J&J offers high-quality and precise catering prepared with the freshest ingredients from local farmers and specialty food producers.

Wholesale Fruit & Produce

Where quality rules, local comes first, and taste matters 217 UPPER NORTH ROAD, HIGHLAND 84

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Main Course 175 Main St, New Paltz (845) 255-2650; maincoursecatering.com Sensational food. Spectacular presentation. Impeccable service. Great locations. Innovative regional cuisine, created by our CIA-trained chefs, will delight the most discriminating palate. Our expert event planners have the necessary information and resources to orchestrate the perfect event and relieve you of all the cumbersome details. Unique sites include historic Hudson River mansions, quaint B&Bs and lush wineries.

Pamela’s Traveling Feast & Pamela’s Bird and Bottle 1123 Old Albany Post Rd, Garrison (845) 424-2333 pamelastravelingfeast.com Adding to her custom crafted cuisine with exceptional service, Pamela Resch, owner of Pamela’s Traveling Feast, announces her acquisition of the Bird & Bottle Inn. This historic, charming, and spirited 1761 colonial inn features four guest rooms with expansive grounds and permanent tent structure for weddings and private events. Offering Special Wine Paring Dinners several times a month, please call for dates and information.

Weddings, private events, corporate events and holiday parties.

Terrapin Restaurant Catering & Events 6426 Montgomery St, Rhinebeck (845) 889-8831; terrapincatering.com Enjoy the same high-quality ingredients and service that you know at Terrapin Restaurant anywhere in the Hudson Valley. Catering events of all types and sizes, Terrapin prepares custom menus for every event, using local, organic ingredients whenever possible. Contact Catering Director Hugh Piney.

C O F F E E

Irving Farm Coffee Roasters 23 Reagan Rd, Millerton (518) 789-3276; irvingfarm.com A quintessentially New York Company, at Irving Farm Coffee Roasters we know what the country means to the city—and vice versa. In 1999, Irving Farm established its farmhouse roastery in the town of Millerton. Now Irving Farm supplies carefully selected, handcrafted coffees to three cafes in the same metropolis, as well as our own small-town coffee house in Millerton.

D I N E R S

Daily Planet 1202 Rt 55, Lagrangeville (845) 452-0110; dailyplanetdiner.com

Palace Diner 194 Washington St, Poughkeepsie (845) 473-1576; thepalacediner.com

Thu–Sun noon–5; closed Mon–Wed A farm distillery focusing on quality not quantity, producing true farm-tobottle spirits, from growing to distilling to bottling.

Red Line Diner 588 Rt 9, Fishkill (845) 765-8401; dineatredline.com

E D U C A T I O N

Table Talk Diner 2519 South Rd (Rt 9), Poughkeepsie (845) 849-2839; tabletalkdiner.com D I S T I L L E R I E S

Dennings Point Distillery 10 N Chestnut St, Beacon denningspointdistillery.com Open Fri–Sun Denning’s Point Distillery crafts the finest artisanal spirits available including Viskill Vodka, Beacon American Whiskey and Denning’s White Rye Whiskey. We choose only the highest quality grains from New York state farms and strive to create classic spirits of unique character and depth in our unique, urban production space.

Orange County Distillery 19B Maloney Ln, Goshen orangecountydistillery.com

Green Meadow Waldorf School 307 Hungry Hollow Rd, Chestnut Ridge (845) 356-2514; gmws.org Founded in 1950, we are one of the oldest and largest Waldorf schools in the U.S. From the child’s imaginative experiences of discovery and play in our early childhood program to the intellectual challenges presented in our high school, Green Meadow students approach their education with interest and joy.

G O L F

Garrison Golf Club 2015 Rt 9, Garrison (845) 424-4747; thegarrison.com/golf Daily, Apr–Nov 6:30–dusk.

The Garrison Golf Club is an 18-hole, par 72 championship golf course.

Perched 800 feet above the Hudson, the course offers spectacular views of the Hudson Highlands. The woodsy terrain challenges golfers with rolling hills, elevation changes, and tough tee shots over deep ravines.

POUGHKEEPSIE JOURNAL 465 Main Street, Beacon 2540 Route 55, Poughquag www.brotherstrattoria.com

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H O M E

C A T E R I N G + E V E N T S

Ethan Allen Rt 32, 94 North Plank Rd, Newburgh (845) 565-6000; ethanallen.com Mon–Fri 9–5:30; Sat 10–5:30; Sun noon–5.

The Bells have been offering the finest in-home furnishings since 1955, and have expanded their store to offer the new, up-to-date Ethan Allen look, featuring country, casual, contemporary, and traditional furniture and accessories. Their staff offers complimentary interior design service and in-home house calls.

N&S Supply, Inc. 205 Old Rt 9, Fishkill (845) 896-6291; nssupply.com Your one-stop resource for all plumbing, heating and HVAC needs.

Williams Lumber 6760 Rt 9, Rhinebeck (845) 876-9663 34 Blommer Rd, Tannersvile (518) 589-5200 2424 Rt 44, Pleasant Valley (845) 605-3520 908 Rt 82, Hopewell Junction (845) 221-2751 9-11 E Market St, Red Hook (845) 758-5615 317 Kyserike Rd, High Falls (845) 687-7676 3679 Rt 9, Hudson (518) 851-3641 4246 Albany Post Rd, Hyde Park (845) 698-1004 williamslumber.com The largest independent home center in the area.

K I T C H E N

Warren Kitchen & Cutlery 6934 Rt 9, Rhinebeck (845) 876-6208; warrenkitchentools.com Mon–Sat 9:30–5:30; Sun 11–4:30 The Hudson Valley’s complete source for professional kitchen knives and tools, commercial quality cookware, bakeware, pocketknives and woodcarving tools. We stock the largest selection of name-brand cutlery in the region at prices well below retail. Knife sets, knife blocks and carving boards. Professional knife sharpening while you wait.

M A R K E T S

Adams Fairacre Farms 1560 Ulster Ave, Kingston (845) 336-6300 1240 Rt 300, Newburgh (845) 569-0303 765 Dutchess Tnpk, Poughkeepsie (845) 454-4330 160 Old Post Rd, Wappinger (845) 632-9955 adamsfarms.com Open daily

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A family-owned farm market/garden center. A cornucopia of fresh produce, meats, fish, deli, and prepared foods.

Featuring Hudson Valley products, a great selection of the best local cheese, meat, produce and more.

Barb’s Butchery 69 Spring St, Beacon (845) 831-8050; barbsbutchery.com Tue–Fri 11–7:30; Sat 10–6; lunch Tue– Sat; closed Sun & Mon Your new neighborhood butcher shop providing local, Hudson Valley–raised meat and poultry. Practicing nose-totail butchery, we are proud to offer fresh and smoked meats, specialty cuts, charcuterie, house-made stocks, craft bacon and more.

Beacon Pantry 267 Main St, Beacon (845) 440-8923; beaconpantry.com Mon–Sat 7–8; Sun 7–6 Providing artisan food and artisan service to Beacon and beyond, Beacon Pantry features more than 50 varieties of cut-to-order domestic and imported cheese and charcuterie. Large selection of local, Italian and hard-to-find French pantry items, grass-fed local meats and dairy. Stumptown coffee, unique chocolates, fine pastries and desserts. Serving European-style sandwiches and cheese plates. Catering for any size event.

Crown Maple at Madava Farms 47 McCourt Rd, Dover Plains (845) 877-0640; crownmaple.com Sat & Sun 11–5 Madava Farms is home to sustainably made Crown Maple maple syrup.

Crown Maple has proved versatile, with uses ranging from complementing your morning pancakes to adding a distinct taste in culinary masterpieces.

Open most weekends for tours, tastings and special events.

Hudson Valley Sausage Company 85 Vineyard Ave, Highland (845) 691-9312 Fri noon–6; Sat 9–5; Sun 10–2 All meats processed in-house. Local pork, fresh-cut or dry-aged beef, smoked and fresh hams, cured and smoked meats, charcuterie. Many varieties of Italian and German sausage.

Sausage-making classes. Traditional and BBQ catering for all occasions.

Wild game processing. Soon to be a USDA facility.

Main Course 175 Main St, New Paltz (845) 255-2600; maincoursecatering.com Tue–Thu, Sat 11–9; Fri 11–10; Sun 9–9 Try something new. Bruce Kazan, award-winning caterer and restaurateur, opens a new sustainable takeaway market, featuring the bounty of the Hudson Valley in easy, delicious meals to eat in or take away.

TasteNY Store at Todd Hill Taconic State Pkwy, Lagrange Located 10 miles north of I-84 and 1 mile south of Rt 55 (845) 849-0247; ccedutchess.org Open Mon, Wed, Thu, Sat 10–7; Fri 10–8; Sun 11–7; closed Tue An asset along the Taconic State Parkway, find a vast array of foods and products grown or made in the Hudson Valley.

Outdoor farmers’ market open Jun–Oct: Fri 3–7, Sun 2–6.

N A T U R A L

F O O D S

Beacon Natural Market 348 Main St, Beacon (845) 838-1288; beaconnaturalmarket.com Mon–Sat 9–7; Sun 10–5 Lighting the way for a healthier world.

Featuring organic prepared foods, deli and juice bar, organic and regional produce, meats and cheeses. Open since 2005, proprietors L.T. and Kitty Sherpa are dedicated to serving the Hudson Valley with a complete selection of products that are good for you and good for the planet, including an extensive alternative health department. Nutritionist on staff. Catering available.

Mother Earth’s 300 Kings Mall Ct, Kingston (845) 336-5541 249 Main St, Saugerties (845) 246-9614 1955 South Rd, Poughkeepsie (845) 296-1069 motherearthstorehouse.com Open daily Offering the finest natural foods, bulk spices, herbs, vitamins, supplements and organic produce. The valley’s best organic, hot and cold takeout at our Kingston and Poughkeepsie locations.

Sunflower Natural Market 75 Mill Hill Rd, Woodstock (845) 679-5361; sunflowernatural.com Mon–Fri 8–9; Sat 9–9; Sun 10–7 The area’s most complete natural foods market, featuring certified organic produce, organic milk, cheeses and eggs, a wide range of bulk organic grains and nuts, non-irradiated herbs and spices, plus vitamins, homeopathic and body care products.

P A S T A

La Bella Pasta 906 Rt 28, Kingston (845) 331-9130; lbpasta.com Mon–Fri 10–6; Sat 11–3; closed Sun Fresh pasta made locally using only the finest ingredients. Large variety of ravioli (including vegan), tortellini, pastas and sauces. We deliver our product to fine restaurants, gourmet shops and caterers throughout the Hudson Valley. Call for product list and samples. Located on Rt. 28 West between Kingston and Woodstock.

R E S T A U R A N T S

Al Fresco 1036 Main St, Fishkill (845) 896-3600 Mon–Sat 11–10; Sun 4–10 There are many good Italian restaurants in the Hudson Valley. Al Fresco stands out for authentic Italian with healthy and traditional family recipes using fresh meat, seafood and produce from local farmers.

restaurant | bistro | bar

Another Fork in the Road 1215 Rt 199, Milan (845) 758-6676; anotherforkintheroadmilan.wordpress.com Breakfast 9–3; lunch 11–3; dinner 5–9 Eat something you have never had before or have a burger. Craft beers and wines.

Aroma Osteria 114 Old Post Rd, Wappingers Falls (845) 298-6790; aromaosteriarestaurant.com Lunch Tue–Sat; dinner Tue–Sun; closed Mon Voted Best Italian Restaurant by Hudson Valley magazine; Poughkeepsie Journal awards four stars. A romantic, relaxed atmosphere with an elegant cocktail bar in a beautiful setting. Here, rustic Italian cuisine is served with a unique and extensive selection of Italian wines (many available by the glass). Catering for all occasions available on or off premises.

celebrate the season at terrapin. ask about our holiday events, including the annual holiday beer dinner, christmas eve and new year’s eve dinner. gift certificates always available.

Blu Pointe 120 Front St, Newburgh (845) 568-0100; blu-pointe.com Mon–Thu 11:30–10; Fri & Sat 11:30– 11; Sun brunch 11–2; Sun dinner 2–9 With something for everyone, this restaurant on the Hudson River features a farm-to-table menu offering fresh seafood and prime rib, a raw bar station, local craft beers and spirits and an outside, riverside bar with live music.

Brother’s Trattoria 465 Main St, Beacon (845) 838-3300; brotherstrattoria.com Lunch daily 11–3; dinner daily 4–10 Tuscan charm and Northern Italian cuisine in the heart of Beacon’s bustling Main Street.

Café Amarcord 276 Main St, Beacon (845) 440-0050; cafeamarcord.com Tue–Thu noon–10; Fri & Sat noon–11; Sun noon–9; closed Mon Creative New American cuisine with Italian undertones, served in a warm atmosphere. Enjoy an artisanal cocktail at the onyx bar before having dinner in the bistro-style dining room or on our Main Street terrace. Bring colleagues for a casual lunch, or a date for a romantic night out.

local organic authentic lunch & dinner daily in rhinebeck 845-876-3330 terrapinrestaurant.com

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Café Mio 2356 Rt 44/55, Gardiner (845) 765-8502; miogardiner.com Breakfast & lunch Wed–Sun 8:30–4:30 A popular, casual café overlooking the Shawangunk Mountains. We are proud to offer the freshest local fare, drawing from our many surrounding farms—something that is at the core of our food philosophy. A varied selection of wines and craft beers.

Caffe Macchiato 99 Liberty St., Newburgh (845) 565-4616; addressyourappetite.com Tue-Fri 9-3; Sat, Sun 9-4 Located in the historic district of Newburgh, Caffe Macchiato is a European-style café offering an all-day breakfast and lunch along with a fairtrade coffee beverage selection. The menu focuses on seasonal items and chef/owner Jodi Cummings highlights several local farms and producers on the menu. All desserts and pastries are baked from scratch in-house.

Canterbury Brook Inn 331 Main St, Cornwall (845) 534-9658; canterburybrookinn.com Tue–Thu 5–9; Fri & Sat 5–9:30 Hosts Hans and Kim Baumann offer fine Swiss continental cuisine featuring veal, duck, chicken, Schnitzel, pasta, filet mignon, fresh fish and much more.

Enjoy a fabulous dessert while sipping a frothing cappuccino or espresso. We specialize in both on- and off-premise catering. Outdoor brookside dining.

Reservations suggested.

Cathryn’s Tuscan Grill 91 Main St, Cold Spring (845) 265-5582; tuscangrill.com Daily noon–10:30; brunch Sun; Flight Night Tue 7–9:30 Follow the red brick walk off Main Street through a landscaped garden into a romantic dining scene. Choose from an array of Northern Italian dishes such as pulled rabbit with fresh pappardelle pasta, seedless grapes and grappa sauce; and grilled partridge with blackberries, pearl onions and pancetta with a red wine sauce.

Reasonably priced wines. Small private party room is a memorable, festive Tuscan accent.

NOW OFFERING CATERING & OFFICE LUNCH DELIVERY 206 MAIN STREET, POUGHKEEPSIE, NY 12601 (845) 337-4684 | QUEENCITYBISTRO.COM

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Clock Tower Grill Kitchen & Bar 512 Clock Tower Dr, Brewster (845) 582-0574; clocktowergrill.com Lunch Tue–Fri; Dinner Tue–Sun noon–9 Set in a renovated barn, the atmosphere is casual yet sophisticated; the menu “rustic American” with many ingredients drawn from area farms.

Cosimo’s Restaurant Group Cosimo’s On Union 1217 Rt 300, Newburgh (845) 567-1556; fax (845) 567-9246

Cosimo’s Middletown 620 Rt 211 East, Middletown (845) 692-3242 Cosimo’s Poughkeepsie 120 Delafield St, Poughkeepsie (845) 485-7172 Cosimo’s Woodbury Rt 32, Central Valley (845) 928-5222 cosimosrestaurantgroup.com Lunch & dinner daily Casual trattoria-style dining with some of the world’s best wines. Old-style Italian cuisine with a New World twist.

Daily specials, pasta, fish and meat dishes. Distinctive cocktail lounges, a unique wine cellar for private dinner parties and beautiful catering facilities.

Craft 47 47 W. Main St, Goshen (845) 360-5253; craft47.com Tue–Thu noon–10; Fri, Sat noon– midnight; Sun noon–10; closed Mon Kick back, relax and sample the best of the Hudson Valley at Craft 47. We offer small-plate American tapas, craft wine and 12 craft beers on tap, with even more in the cooler.

Crave Restaurant & Lounge 129 Washington St, Poughkeepsie (845) 452-3501; craverestaurantandlounge.com Dinner Wed–Sat 4–10; Sun 11:30–9; closed Mon & Tue Chef Ed Kowalski serves contemporary food with modern twists in a romantic and intimate setting located directly under the Walkway Over The Hudson.

The Culinary Institute of America 1946 Campus Dr (off Rt 9), Hyde Park (845) 471-6608; ciachef.edu/restaurants The world’s premier culinary college offers exceptional global cuisine in its award-winning restaurants: American Bounty, which celebrates the seasons and products of the Hudson Valley; The Bocuse Restaurant, which reimagines classic French cuisine using modern techniques; Ristorante Caterina de’ Medici, which features authentic regional Italian dishes; and the Al Forno Trattoria, a casual stop for rustic dishes. The Apple Pie Bakery Café offers sumptuous baked goods and café fare.

Dish Bistro & Wine Bar 947 South Lake Blvd, Mahopac (845) 621-3474; dishmahopac.com Lunch Tue–Sat 11:30–4; Dinner Mon-Sat 5–10 Chef Peter A. Milano adds his own personal flare to both classic and modern inspired cuisine with dishes focused on local seasonal produce and local high quality ingredients. With a special menu that changes daily, guests delight in a unique experience every time they dine.

Frida’s Bakery & Cafe 26 Main St, Milton (845) 795-5550; fridasbakeryny.com Daily 7–7 An extension of Buttermilk Falls Inn & Spa, Frida’s offers artisan breads, pastries and coffees as well as housemade breakfast and lunch options.

Gino’s Restaurant 1671 Rt 9, Wappingers Falls (845) 297-8061; ginoswappingers.com Tue–Thu 11:30–9; Fri & Sat 11:30–10; Sun 1–9; closed Mon Serving the Hudson Valley since 1984.

Traditional southern Italian cuisine in a casual environment. Only the freshest ingredients used to prepare your favorite veal, chicken, seafood and pasta dishes.

Catering on- and off-premise.

Half Moon 1 High St, Dobbs Ferry (914) 693-4130; harvest2000.com Lunch Mon–Fri 11:45–3; dinner Mon– Thu 5:30–10, Fri 5:30–11, Sat 5–11, Sun 4–9; brunch Sun 11:45–2:30 Casual American restaurant on the Hudson River with panoramic views extending to Manhattan. The diverse menu offers American favorites— fresh Montauk seafood, ceviche, raw bar and classic hamburgers—with imaginative flair.

Harvest-on-Hudson 1 River St, Hastings-on-Hudson (914) 478-2800; harvest2000.com Lunch Mon–Fri 11:45–2:30; dinner Mon–Thu 5:30–10, Fri 5:30– 11, Sat 5–11, Sun 4–9 Overlooking the Hudson River and Palisades, a magnificent Tuscan farmhouse is the perfect setting for inspired Mediterranean cuisine, with many ingredients picked from the on-site garden.

Henry’s At Buttermilk Falls 220 North Rd, Milton (845) 795-1310; henrysatbuttermilk.com Lunch Fri & Sat; dinner Wed–Sun; Brunch Sun. Local comes alive at this bucolic Inn & Spa, where the main ingredients are sourced from local producers and purveyors. An inventive menu features a fresh selection of large and small plates from casual burger and fries to refined New American dishes. Enjoy a pre-dinner stroll through the organic gardens and orchards or a drink overlooking the Hudson River and sweeping lawns.

Al fresco dining available.

The Hop: Craft Beer & Artisanal Fare 458 Main St, Beacon (845) 440-8676; thehopbeacon.com Wed–Thu noon–9; Fri & Sat noon–11; Sun noon–8; closed Mon & Tue Share our love of finely crafted beers and

passion for house-made charcuterie, local cheeses and seasonal fare. Come enjoy a meal with us and then take a look at the amazing beer selection and specialty food items we have available for retail. Seating at the Chef’s Table is also available by reservation.

Il Barilotto 1113 Main St, Fishkill (845) 897-4300; ilbarilottorestaurant.com Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat; closed Sun Blending the old with the new, Eduardo Lauria, chef-owner of Aroma Osteria, transformed an historic brick building in the heart of Fishkill to a trattoria and wine bar. The fare is Italian peasant with a contemporary flair. The selection of regional wines from Italy—available by the glass or flight—is extensive.

Catering on- and off-premises.

Il Portico 89 Main St, Tappan (845) 365-2100; ilportico.com Lunch Tue–Sun noon–2:30; dinner 5–9:30 Part of the historic hamlet of Tappan.

Classic Italian fare served in a classy, relaxed atmosphere.

Joseph’s Steakhouse 728 Violet Ave (Rt 9G), Hyde Park (845) 473-2333; josephs-steakhouse.com Mon–Thu 4–9; Fri & Sat noon–10; Sun 12-course brunch; Sun dinner 3–8 Located next to Val-Kill, Eleanor Roosevelt National Historic Site. The Steakhouse for dinner, The Tea Room for lunch and banquet room for dinner shows and private parties.

Le Express 1820 New Hackensack Rd, Wappingers Falls (845) 849-3565 Mon–Thu 11–10; Fri 11–11; Sat 4–11 A modern French American bistro that focuses on using foods from local Hudson Valley purveyors. Our goal is to have fun and create a small, special place that will provide you with a memorable dining experience.

Leo’s Ristorante Rt 9D, Wappingers Falls (845) 838-3446 22 Quaker Ave, Cornwall (845) 534-3446 1433 Rt 300, Newburgh (845) 564-3446 leospizzeria.com Mon–Sat 11–10; Sun 2–9 A family favorite since 1981, Leo’s offers traditional classic Italian dishes, pizza, hot/cold subs, pasta, veal, chicken and appetizers. Daily specials and catering for all occasions whether in our location or yours. Great food served in a comfortable and relaxed atmosphere.

NOW SERVING BRUNCH EVERY SUNDAY FROM 10-2

Eclectic

American Cuisine Fresh & Local Ingredients

Prix Fixe Dinner Menu Wednesday & Thursday nights $29.95 Let us cater your next event!

Holiday Parties, Weddings, Engagements, Bridal Shower Baby Showers, Birthdays & Corporate Events

KRISTA WILD, Owner

74 Clinton St. Montgomery, NY 12549 (845) 457-3770

(845) 232-5783 • PKICEHOUSE.COM 1 MAIN STREET • POUGHKEEPSIE, NY

(845) 214-0000 • MILLPK.COM 46 VASSAR RD • POUGHKEEPSIE, NY

WHEN IT SNOWS IN THE VALLEY. COME SIT AT OUR TABLE. YOU CAN EAT, DRINK & READ A MAGAZINE.

SPECIAL THANKS TO ALL THE STAFF AT VALLEY TABLE MAGAZINE FOR SUPPORTING US. — MICHAEL LUND

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Maybelle’s 355 Main St, Catskill (518) 719-1800; maybellesny.com Breakfast and lunch Mon–Thu 9–3; dinner 6–10; closed Tue & Wed Sister restaurant to Another Fork in the Road in Milan. Stop in for casual New American cuisine in the heart of Catskill, NY. The Mill 46 Vassar Rd, Poughkeepsie (845) 204-9083; millpk.com Executive chef and Hudson Valley native Mark Haslam features fresh seasonal and local artisanal foods. Our casual and upbeat atmosphere coupled with our knowledgeable staff, acoustic entertainment and cozy indoor and outdoor dining make us the destination that serves all of our guests the dining experience they deserve.

Mill House Brewing Company 289 Mill St, Poughkeepsie (845) 485-2739; millhousebrewing.com Lunch & dinner Mon, Wed–Sun; closed Tue Offers a warm, historic and visually appealing setting, with casual, yet professional service, food cooked from as close to the source as possible, and artfully crafted ales.

Taste what everyone’s talking about

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Your neighborhood purveyor of local Hudson Valley-raised meats Nose-to-Tail · Grass & Grain Finished Angus · Specialty Cuts Charcuterie · Smoked Meats · House-made Stocks · Craſt Bacon

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Nina 27 W. Main St, Middletown (845) 344-6800; nina-restaurant.com Lunch Mon–Sat 11:30–2:30; dinner Mon–Sun from 5; brunch Sun 9:30–2 New York City–trained chef Franz Brendle brings an elegant flair to classic American cuisine. Features include filet mignon Roquefort, shrimp asparagus risotto and seafood specials. Nice selection of wines in various price ranges. Friendly staff, cozy décor. Hearty Sun brunch.

Ole Savannah Southern Table & Bar 100 Rondout Landing, Kingston (845) 331-4283; olesavannah.com Mon 4–10; Tues–Sat 11:30–10; Sun noon–9 Celebrating the fresh and inspired cooking and culture of the American South, Ole Savannah offers an inventive twist on classic Southern cuisine, from fall-off-the bone barbecue, fried chicken and pecan pie to great bourbon and craft beer.

Olive’s 118A Main St, Nyack (845) 358-3120; facebook.com/olivesnyyack The oldest live music venue in Rockland featuring a vegan and vegetarian menu with classic American favorites. With 10 taps and 24 varieties of beer.

Pamela’s on the Hudson 1 Park Place, Newburgh (845) 562-4505 Dinner Thur-Sun 4-til close pamelasonthehudson.com

Contemporary American bistro and bar on the Hudson River. A warm, cozy and casual atmosphere with live music every evening and Happy Hour food and drink specials Thursday-Saturday 4:30pm-6:30pm. Pamela’s features an expansive wine by the glass menu as well as nightly dinner specials.

Catering is available for weddings, corporate events, private events, and holiday parties.

Perch 1 King St., Marlboro (845) 236-3663; perchmarlboro.com Lunch & Dinner; Closed Mon New from the owner of Cathryn’s Tuscan Grill in Cold Spring, offering a globally inspired, locally sourced menu. The eclectic list of wine and beer represents the best of the Hudson Valley.

Poughkeepsie Ice House 1 Main St, Poughkeepsie (845) 232-5783; pkicehouse.com Sun–Wed 11:30–10; Thu–Sat til 11 The Poughkeepsie Ice House is the anchor for the Queen Bee City. The historic Hudson Valley waterfront brick building features old world charm and walking distance to the Poughkeepsie Train Station and the Walkway over the Hudson. Public boat docking and waterfront dining are available. The food is casually sophisticated with seasonal and local inspired menus.

Queen City Bistro 206 Main St, Poughkeepsie (845) 337-4684; queencitybistro.com Lunch Tue-Fri 11-3; Sat, Sun 10-3; Dinner Tue-Thur 5-10; Fri, Sat 5-11; Sun 5-10 Indulge in American-style small plate cuisine for lunch, dinner or a weekend brunch. Queen City promotes close relationships with local farms to bring the freshest ingredients to our menu.

We offer a full bar, featuring craft beer from the Hudson Valley, as well as an international selection. Now offering catering and office lunch delivery.

Restaurant 1915 55 Hessian Dr, Bear Mountain (845) 786-2731 ext. 1915; visitbearmountain.com Thu–Sun 5–9 Located at the historic Bear Mountain Inn, enjoy a seasonal menu in a beautiful lodge setting.

RiverMarket Bar & Kitchen 127 W Main St, Tarrytown (914) 631-3100; rivermarketbarandkitchen.com Lunch & dinner daily Innovative, epicurean hub featuring a restaurant, bar, wood-fired pizzeria, wine and spirits store, and farmers’ market.

Riverview Restaurant 45 Fair St, Cold Spring (845) 265-4778; riverdining.com Lunch Tue–Fri noon–2:30; Sat noon–4; dinner Tue–Fri 5:30–9:30; Sat 5–10; Sun noon–9; closed Mon Contemporary American cuisine with beautiful river views. Seasonally inspired menus featuring market fresh seafood, brick oven pizza and creative daily specials. No credit cards; checks OK. Reservations suggested.

The Roundhouse 2 E Main St, Beacon (845) 765-8369; roundhousebeacon.com Serving a locally inspired, seasonal menu, the restaurant offers stunning waterfall views in its Rockwell Group– designed dining room. The adjoining lounge features a menu of small plates, craft beer, and artisanal cocktails. With Executive Chef Brandon Collins at the helm, both the restaurant and lounge provide gorgeous setting for enjoying an exceptional meal or distinctive drink.

Sour Kraut 118 Main St, Nyack (845) 358-3122; sour-kraut.com Sun–Thu 11:30–10; Fri & Sat 11:30–11 An authentic fine German restaurant in the heart of Nyack. Featuring a variety of homemade German fare, a cozy atmosphere and music.

Terrapin Restaurant & Red Bistro 6426 Montgomery St, Rhinebeck (845) 876-3330; terrapinrestaurant.com Lunch & dinner daily From far-flung origins, the world’s most diverse flavors meet and mingle here.

From elements both historic and eclectic comes something surprising, fresh and dynamic: dishes to delight body and soul. Choose fine dining in Terrapin’s dining room or casual fare in Red Bistro & Bar. From good burgers and quesadillas to wild salmon and local filet mignon. Terrapin’s local organic and authentic menu satisfies all.

Thyme Restaurant 3605 Crompond Rd, Yorktown Heights (914) 788-8700; thymerestaurant.net Lunch & dinner Tue–Sun 11:30–10; brunch Sun 11:30–2 Step into Thyme for a relaxing meal of distinguished flavors. Chef-owner Tom Costello offers a menu of masterfully crafted dishes featuring Contemporary American fare in a warm and inviting setting. Explore the diverse wine list and seasonal cocktail specials.

The Vault 448 Main St, Beacon (845) 202-7068; thevaultbeacon.com Lunch & Dinner; Happy Hour Tue-Fri, 4-7 pm; Closed Mon

A tapas and spirits restaurant offering a warm atmosphere with refined elegance.

The locally sourced, artisanal American menu combines creative takes on traditional dishes—sliders, crab cakes, charcuterie—with a fresh raw bar, local craft brews, extensive wine selection and creative cocktails—straight from the original 1920s vault. Happy hour Thursday brings discounted top-shelf martinis with complementary meatballs.

Valley at the Garrison 2015 Rt 9, Garrison (845) 424-3604; thegarrison.com/restaurants Valley: Dinner Thu–Sun 5–9; midday menu Sat & Sun 11:30–2:30 Terrace: Mon–Thu 8–6; Fri–Sun 7–7 Valley, The Garrison’s signature fine-dining restaurant offers seasonal American Cuisine. Many ingredients are sourced from Garrison Farm. Terrace Grill, a casual dining venue, supplies guests with muffins and morning items, as well as burgers, salads and light fare all day.

The Village Tea Room 10 Plattekill Ave, New Paltz (845) 255-3434; thevillagetearoom.com Tues–Sun 8–9 The Village Tea Room is a unique gathering place, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner as well as a variety of teas.

Tantalizing cakes and cookies. Organic honey, pot pies and roast chicken.

Zagat survey says “Irish ex-pat Agnes Devereux has a real winner.”

West Main Bar & Kitchen 2710 W. Main St, Wappingers Falls (845) 297-0510; westmainkitchenandbar.com Lunch & Dinner Wed–Mon 11:30–9; Fri & Sat til midnight A friendly new American-style restaurant in the village of Wappingers Falls.

The menu changes seasonally and displays Mexican, Italian and Asian flavors.

Banquet room seats 50 for events.

Wildfire Grill 74 Clinton St, Montgomery (845) 457-3770; wildfireny.com Lunch Mon–Sat 11:30–3; Sun noon–3; dinner Sun–Thu 5–9; Fri & Sat 5–10 Eclectic is the buzzword at this popular local eatery, where patrons can feast on a predominantly American menu with Asian, Mexican and Italian influences in a rustic Victorian setting.

The Would 120 North Rd, Highland (845) 691-9883; thewould.com Dinner Tue–Sat Dine amid the apple orchards. A long history of warm hospitality and innovative New American cuisine makes for a popular destination. CIA-trained chefs show dedication to great ingredients and seasonality for sophisticated fare.

For a lighter option, try the bistro menu.

NOW OPEN AT

BEAR MOUNTAIN INN

Local, sustainable, Local, sustainable, farm-to-table fare farm-to-table fare

For reservations, call

845-786-2731 ext. 1915 www.visitbearmountain.com dec

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12/18/2014 10:47:49 AM

café & catering by CIA graduate

Full Service Catering exquisite food unique locations local, seasonal ingredients lasting impression

Visit Our Café

1 East Market Street Red Hook, NY 12571 T: 845.758.9030, F: 845.758.9003 jjgourmet2006@yahoo.com • www.jandjgourmet.com

Xaviar’s Restaurant Group Chef-owner Peter Kelly offers his signature service and exceptional cuisine to four locations. Critics agree: Dining in the valley will never be the same.

Xaviar’s at Piermont 506 Piermont Ave, Piermont (845) 359-7007 Lunch Fri & Sun noon–2; dinner Wed– Fri 6–9; Sat seatings 6 & 9; Sun 5–8 Freelance Café & Wine Bar 506 Piermont Ave, Piermont (845) 365-3250 Lunch Tue–Sun noon–3; dinner Tue–Thu 5:30–10; Fri til 10:30; Sat til 11; Sun 5–10 Restaurant X & Bully Boy Bar 117 North Rt 303, Congers (845) 268-6555 Lunch Tue–Fri noon–2:30; dinner Tue–Thu 5:30–10; Fri 5–10:30; Sat til 11; Sun til 8; closed Mon X2O Xaviars on the Hudson 71 Water Grant Way, Yonkers (914) 965-1111 Lunch Tue–Fri; dinner Tue–Sun; brunch Sun T O U R I S M

Sullivan County Visitors Association (800) 882-CATS; SCVA.net Explore the festivities and natural beauty of Sullivan County through the trails, restaurants, shops, and fall festivals.

Samaki, Inc. 62 Jersey Ave, Port Jervis (845) 858-1012; samakismokedfish.com Mon–Thu 7–3; Fri 7–1; Sat & Sun 9-noon Purveyors of fine smoked fish, including organic Irish smoked salmon, whitefish, sable and smoked trout. Handcrafted in small batches since 1983. Available wholesale and retail.

W I N E & S P I R I T S

Harvest Spirits 3074 Rt. 9, Valatie (518) 253-5917; harvestspirits.com Sat & Sun noon-5 Award-winning spirits from homegrown fruit on a 200-acre farm in Columbia County. The farm distillery produces Core Vodka, Cornelius Applejack and Pear & Apple Brandy from the farm’s fruits. Tastings and tours available every weekend. Farm market open daily.

Mid Valley Wine & Liquor 39 N Plank Rd, Newburgh (845) 562-1070; midvalleywine.com Mon–Sat 9–9; Sun noon–6 15,000-square-foot shop with more than 8,600 labels, with a 400-square-foot, climate-controlled room for fine wines.

Tastings Fri evenings and Sat afternoons.

Wine seminars and wine courses are offered periodically. Friendly, knowledgeable staff. UPS shipping.

W I N E R I E S

Westchester County Tourism (800) 833-9282; visitwestchesterny.com W H O L E S A L E

CATER OR BOOK YOUR HOLIDAY PARTY NOW! LUNCH-DINNER

CALL FOR RESERVATIONS 118 Main Street, Nyack 845-358-3122

sour-kraut.com facebook.com/SourkrautNyack

THE VILLAGE TEA ROOM BREAKFAST

~ LUNCH ~ AFTERNOON TEA ~ DINNER ~ CATERING

10 Plattekill Ave, New Paltz 845 255 3434 www.TheVillageTeaRoom.com 92

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N&S Supply, Inc. 205 Old Rt 9, Fishkill (845) 896-6291; nssupply.com Your one-stop resource for all plumbing, heating and HVAC needs, including specialty products designed and manufactured to meet your lifestyle needs; the latest innovative products, including cutting-edge bathroom technology from remote flushing toilets to hands-free faucets. Six locations: Fishkill, Brewster, Kingston, Catskill, Hudson and Danbury.

Red Barn Produce 217 Upper North Rd, Highland (845) 691-7428 Full-service, family owned and operated wholesaler servicing restaurants and institutions with a complete selection of fruits and vegetables for 20 years. A proud distributor of local, New York, high-quality produce at competitive prices emphasizing reliable and personal service. Pick-up or delivery available to Dutchess, Columbia, Ulster and Orange counties.

Nostrano Vineyards 14 Gala Ln, Milton (845) 555-8453; nostranovineyards.com Sat & Sun noon-5 In Italian, “nostrano” translates to “of our own.” Nestled in the hills of the Hudson Valley, Nostrano Vineyards uses the name as their philosophy: a local vineyard producing wine from their own grapes. Tasting room now open.

Shawangunk Wine Trail (845) 256-8456; (845) 291-1927; shawangunkwinetrail.com Nestled between the Shawangunks and the Hudson River, just 60 miles north of NYC is a trail of 14 familyowned wineries from New Paltz to Warwick. The wineries offer tours and tastings amidst scenic beauty. A complete listing of wineries and events is available on our website.

Stoutridge Vineyard 10 Ann Kaley Ln, Marlboro (845) 263-7620; stoutridge.com Many of our wines and spirits are locally grown, and all are from New York fruits and grains. Our wines are sold exclusively at the winery. Enjoy an authentic taste of the Hudson Valley at our winery, distillery and grounds.

Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery 114 Little York Rd, Warwick (845) 258-4858; wvwinery.com Daily 11–6 for tastings Food & Wine magazine calls our draft cider “clean, vibrant” with a “sweet finish.” We produce wine for every occasion: Chardonnay, Riesling, Harvest Moon, Black Dirt Blush and Red, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir. As the Valley’s first distillery, we produce a line of fine brandies and liqueurs. Bakery Café serves lunch and fresh breads on weekends.

Whitecliff Vineyard 331 McKinstry Rd, Gardiner (845) 255-4613; whitecliffwine.com Daily 11:30–5:30; Sat til 6 One of the valley’s largest vineyards boasts beautiful views of the Shawangunk Ridge. Owner/wine maker Michael Migliore produces award-winning wines from European vinifera varietals such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Riesling, as well as new hybrids. Visit our friendly tasting room. Winery tours by appointment, special events.

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WINERIES BREWERIES

TASTINGS DISTILLERIES THEVALLEYTABLE

99 LIBERT Y STREET NEWBURGH, NY

845.565.4616

A D D R E S SYO U R A P E T I T E . C O M 䌀䰀伀匀䔀䐀 䴀伀一 ☀ 吀唀䔀匀

Mon–Fri 6AM-3PM Sat 7AM-3PM Sun 7AM-2PM Available evenings for catering

DONNA HAMMOND Executive Chef

Custom Catering

237 Hudson Street, Cornwall-on-Hudson 845.534.2450 www.hudsonstreetcafe.com dec

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CELEBRATING FINE DINING IN THE HUDSON VALLEY Thank you diners, restaurants and sponsors for making Fall Hudson Valley Restaurant Week such a delicious success.

Mark your calendars for Spring 2016 Hudson Valley Restaurant Week, March 7-20.

THANK YOU 8 North Broadway 76 House 105-Ten Bar & Grill 121 Restaurant 251 Lex 273 Kitchen 808 Bistro A Tavola Al Fresco Alain’s French Bistro Alain’s Wine & Tapas American Bounty AquaTerra Grille Aroma Osteria Artist’s Palate Augie’s Prime Cut The Barley House The Barn at Bedford Post Inn Bear Café Beehive Benjamin Steakhouse Billy Joe’s Ribworks Bistro Rollin Bistro Z Blu Pointe Bluestone Bistro Bocuse Restaurant Bonefish Grill Nanuet Poughkeepsie Brasserie 292 Briar’s Restaurant Broadway Bistro Café Amarcord Café of Love

California Pizza Kitchen Carlo’s Trattoria Cathryn’s Tuscan Grill Cedar Street Grill Cena 2000 Char Char Steakhouse & Bar Chat 19 Chat American Grill Chophouse Grille Cinnamon Indian Cuisine City Limits Diner Clock Tower Grill Cold Spring Depot Communal Kitchen Confetti Ristorante & Vinoteca The Cookery Cortlandt Colonial Manor Cosimo’s Brick Oven Central Valley Middletown Poughkeepsie Cosimo’s on Union Crabtree’s Kittle House Crave Restaurant & Lounge da Nina Italian Restaurant Dan Rooney’s Café & Bar Daryl’s House Destination Bistro Dish Bistro & Wine Bar Dolphin Dubrovnik Restaurant Eastchester Fish Gourmet El Solar Café Eleven 11 Grille & Spirits

Emilio Ristorante Fig & Olive Frankie & Johnnie’s Steakhouse Gaucho Grill Argentinean Steakhouse Giulio’s Restaurant Global Grill @ Myong Gourmet Graziella’s Italian Bistro Harper’s Bar & Restaurant Harvest-on-Hudson Henry’s at the Farm Hito Restaurant Hudson House of Nyack Hudson House River Inn Hudson’s Ribs & Fish The Hudson Room Hudson Water Club Ibiza Tapas Il Barilotto Il Cenacolo Il Laghetto Il Portico Il Sorriso Inn at Pound Ridge Iron Horse Restaurant Joseph’s Steakhouse Kitchen Sink Food & Drink L’inizio La Bocca La Casa Vicina La Lanterna La Panetière Lago Ristorante & Wine Bar Lakeview House Restaurant Le Express

Registration for restaurant participation and sponsorship is now open. Be part of it. Go to HudsonValleyRestaurantWeek.com or call 845.765.2600.

Le Fontane Le Jardin du Roi Le Provençal Bistro Leo’s Restaurant & Pizzeria Limoncello at Orange Inn Little Mexican Café Lusardi’s MP Taverna Madison Kitchen Marcello’s of Suffern Mariposa at Neiman Marcus MASSA’ COASTAL Mediterraneo Melting Pot The Mill Mill House Brewing Company Mima Vinoteca Moderne Barn Monte’s Local Kitchen & Tap Room Morton’s Steakhouse Moscato Nina Nino’s Restaurant Nonno’s Ole Savannah Southern Table & Bar The Olde Stone Mill The Parlor Peekskill Brewery Piccola Trattoria Pier 701 Restaurant & Bar PLATES Poughkeepsie Ice House Primavera Restaurant & Bar

Prohibition River Purdy’s Farmer and the Fish Queen City Bistro Ralph & Dave’s Ramiro’s 954 Raasa Indian Cusine Red Hat on the River Restaurant 1915 & The Blue Roof Tapas Bar Restaurant North Restaurant X & Bully Boy Bar Rinis Restaurant & Wine Bar Rio Bravo Risotto Ristorante Caterina de’ Medici Rivermarket Bar & Kitchen Riverview Restaurant River City Grille The Rose Room Rosie’s Bistro Italiano The Roundhouse Route 100 Bar & Grill Ruth’s Chris Steak House Rye House Saint George Bistro Saltaire Oyster Bar and Fish House Sam’s of Gedney Way Sammy’s Downtown Bistro Sapore Steakhouse Sapori Italian Restaurant Scalia & Co. Craft Kitchen & Bar Scaramella’s Shadows on the Hudson Ship Lantern Inn

Sofrito White Plains Somers 202 Restaurant and Grill Sonora Restaurant Sour Kraut Sparkill Steakhouse Stone Manor at 101 Tagine Restaurant & Wine Bar Tarry Lodge Tavern at Diamond Mills Terrapin Texas de Brazil Thyme Steak & Seafood Toscana Ristorante Traditions 118 Trattoria Locanda Trattoria San Giorgio Trevi Ristorante Tuthill House at the Mill The Twisted Oak Two Spear Street, New American Restaurant & Bar Union Restaurant & Bar Latino Unoodles Snack Bar Valley Restaurant at The Garrison Velo Bistro Wine Bar ViaVanti! Restaurant & Gelateria Village Social Kitchen & Bar Village TeaRoom Restaurant & Bake Shop Wasabi Wildfire Grill Would Restaurant X2O Xaviars on the Hudson Yonkers Brewing Company Zuppa

Choose Your Pleasure ciarestaurantgroup.com | 845-471-6608 1946 Campus Drive (Rte 9), Hyde Park, NY | On the campus of The Culinary Institute of America

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LAST CALL

let me count the ways . . .

F

OR BETTER OR WORSE , WE ’ RE RAPIDLY APPROACHING a number of holidays that these days seem to be measured more in economic terms than in sincerity.

Christmas and Hanukkah (presents), New Year’s celebrations (house gifts), Greek and Ukranian holidays (more presents) and, before you know it, Valentine’s Day (another present).

As we grow older (and by varying degrees, richer), some of us fall into the habit of measuring love by the size of the box it comes in. Isn’t it funny, though, that the gifts we keep for a lifetime are the ones that fit in the top drawer—the scrap of paper with crayon drawings and misspellings, the little piece of driftwood with a date scripted on it, the ornament of foil and feathers made by a young nephew. These are the reminders of the people, places and events that have meant the most to us, those memories that we hold closest.

To the right is a picture of a pie server. It’s been used to parcel out pieces of pie at just about every special dinner we’ve had with family and friends for more than 35 years. It gets rinsed and wiped and put back into the big ceramic jar that holds most of the other kitchen tools on the counter. It’s smaller than the other tools and we usually have to dig it out from the tangle of stainless steel and plastic that engulfs it.

I cut that tool out of a scrap piece of cherry, shaped it to fit a wedge of pie, gave the handle a slight curve, rubbed and sanded it smooth, sealed it with oil. It was a Christmas present to her when we were still young in our relationship, presented without a box, just a piece of ribbon tied around the handle. It was a gift measured in hours and effort, not dollars, a simple tool for a specific task, something I made that she finds useful.

Still, each time I watch her lift a piece of pie onto a plate with it, it’s like we’re holding hands again.

—JN

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COSIMO’S

NEWBURGH

CENTRAL VALLEY

(845) 567-1556

(845) 928-5222

MIDDLETOWN

POUGHKEEPSIE

(845) 692-3242

(845) 485-7172

cosimosrestaurantgroup.com COSIMO'S PROUDLY SUPPORTS LOCAL FARMERS