The Valley Table 73, March—May 2016 by Valley Table

INSIDE: HUDSON VALLEY RESTAURANT WEEK, TAKE 10

THE VALLEY

NUMBER 73 MARCH–MAY 2016 WWW.VALLEYTABLE.COM

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number 73 march—may 2016

features 25 the calculated cut

What’s the square root of a beef brisket? If there is one, Barb Fisher could figure it out. When she left her career as a math teacher and settled in Beacon, she decided the city needed a good butcher. So she learned butchery, set up shop and for the past year has been cutting up locally sourced meat for grateful customers. Her investment has paid off, no matter how you add it up. by Marissa Sertich Velie

31 living local: le express For John Lekic, “local” is more than a one-note song. Sure, it means he gets much of what he serves at his restaurant from local sources. Sure, it means he’s always loooking for more ways to utilize local resources. But he wants other restaurateurs to do the same, and he’ll even let them use his food truck. Lekic doesn’t call it competition, he calls it community. by Marissa Sertich Velie

45 maple days on storm king ‘Tis the season fire up the boilers, haul the buckets, tap the trees and get down to some serious waiting. Over on Storm King Mountain, Wynn and Ledlie Klosky source their maple sap locally (you can’t get much more local than the backyard). Walk the mountain in their shoes—check out the process from sap to tap in this photo essay by Ethan Harrison. Photographs by Ethan Harrison

48 special section: hudson valley restaurant week It’s been 10 years since six dozen restaraunts participated in the inaugural Hudson Valley Restaurant Week. Since then, the event has grown to include more than triple that number of restaurants serving an estimated half million diners a year. But time flies when you’re having a good time, so don’t blink—here comes the Hudson Valley’s biggest, most popular food event. PHOTO : EVA DEITCH

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departments

13 Good Stuff

New website, food boxes, trending nose-to-tail, microgreens, sustainable seafood at Marist, spiralizer craze, CIA brews, Jones Farm cafe, maple weekends, kudos, events and more

20 Openings

Chateau Beacon, Huckleberry, Perch, Rabbit & Turtle, Rosemary and Vine, Woodnotes

37 Drink

Hudson Valley kosher, by Timothy Buzinski

64 Locally Grown The farmer as arborist, by Keith Stewart 68 2016 CSA farms 77 Eating by the Season Eat your peas, by Robin Cherry 84 Index of advertisers 87 Directory

recipes 29 Braised beef shank; Country style pork ribs (Barb Fisher / Barb’s Butchery) 36 Roasted goose; Bucatini Amatriciana (John Lekic / Le Express) 79 Spring pea and watercress risotto (Dafna Mizrahi / Monte’s Local Kitchen)

80 Ricotta cavatelli with guanciale, mint and sweet pea pesto (David Amorelli / Harvest on Hudson)

81 Grilled pork with garbanzo beans, charred spring onion, morels and pea greens (Devon Gilroy / The Corner) 82 Sweet pea panna cotta (Bruce Kazan / Main Course) 6

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PHOTOS FROM LEFT: CIA ; EVA DEITCH ; EVA DEITCH

EDITOR’S LETTER

Confessions of a semi-Luddite Each time we wrap up another issue of this magazine, there is a palpable sense of relief and, sometimes, even an urge to celebrate—after all, nearly everybody around here gets involved in the process in one way or another, and it’s always climactic when the last page goes out. Yet, despite how hard working and talented our staff is, it all adds up to a lot of work, a lot of pressure and a lot of stress. That we might have the urge to go out for dinner and a few beers when we close each issue is not just understandable, it’s written into our corporate bylaws. We’re celebrating twice about closing this issue, though, primarily because there’s so much celebrating going on inside the magazine. As most savvy eaters know by now, the spring edition of Hudson Valley Restaurant Week is almost upon us, and this marks the event’s tenth anniversary. A record number of restaurants are on board for this spring’s event; it’s a twoweek party and you’re all invited. Less noisy (but no less significant) is the celebration of the new valleytable.com—our re-conceived, re-engineered and re-designed website. There was nothing really wrong with our old site, except that it looked and behaved like an old, worn-out site. (The fact is, it was virtually the same site that we originally put on the web in 2001— almost an eternity in internet time.) The new site has more information, is faster, includes more links and graphics and is, well, just better looking (we think) than the old one. It will allow us to explore new technologies and utilize more modern tools that, in turn, will help us keep content dynamic and rewarding. Check it out if you haven’t already—it’s mobile friendly, too. This is where I confess, though, that I’m not what you’d call a “web guy”—I was in way over my head during just the first tutorial about the new site. Truth is, I’ve spent most of my life immersed in print. Surely you remember that—it’s communication that involves type, ink, paper, proofs, printing presses, glue. I’m only a semi-Luddite, however: Though I was born too late to operate a Linotype machine, I once owned a small letterpress shop with a big Chandler & Price platen press—a real workhorse—and over the span of 45 years earned my keep by operating just about every iteration of phototypositor and computerized typesetter in the industry. (Does MagTape, Compugraphic, Mergenthaler or Varitype mean anything to you?) In the issue 12 editorial announcement of our then-new website, I wrote, “We won’t be publishing an on-line version of the print magazine (I’ve got too much ink in my veins to do that), but we will offer up more news, events and other items that we just can’t effectively include in the quarterly print version.” It’s both comforting and disturbing that I could have written that sentence this morning about the new website. It falls perfectly under “the more things change, the more they stay the same” cliché. In this case, however, I think “Ignorance is bliss” seems more appropriate. —JN

THE VALLEY TABLE THE MAGAZINE OF HUDSON VALLEY FARMS, FOOD AND CUISINE THE VALLEY TABLE, INC. 380 MAIN STREET, SUITE 202 BEACON, NY 12508 (845) 765-2600 www.valleytable.com www.hudsonvalleyrestaurantweek.com NUMBER 73 MARCH – MAY 2016 PUBLISHER Janet Crawshaw janetc@valleytable.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jerry Novesky jerryn@valleytable.com Editorial Assistant Kelly Seiz kelly@valleytable.com Graphic Design Greg Simpson / Ephemera Design Assistant Director of Marketing Laura Lee Holmbo lauralee@valleytable.com Coordinators Emily Verdile emily@valleytable.com Colleen Stewart colleen@valleytable.com Advertising Representatives Tom Best tom@valleytable.com Kayla DelBiondo kayla@valleytable.com Contributors to this issue Helanna Bratman Ethan Harrison Timothy Buzinski Jermaine Haughton Robin Cherry David Neilsen Eva Deitch Keith Stewart Marissa Sertich Velie THE VALLEY TABLE is exclusively devoted to Hudson Valley agriculture, food and cuisine. We support sustainable agricultural practices and efforts to strengthen the links among regional producers, marketers, restaurateurs and consumers. We urge you to patronize businesses that feature Hudson Valley products and to support initiatives that benefit regional agriculture and related efforts. Letters to the editor regarding magazine content are welcome and will be published as space permits. Letters should be mailed to the address above, or emailed to editor@valleytable.com. To be considered for publication, letters must be signed. THE VALLEY TABLE is published four times a year (March, June, Sept and Dec). Distribution is free at selected sites throughout the Hudson Valley or by subscription. Subscriptions are $20 per year. To subscribe, mail a check or money order payable to The Valley Table, 380 Main St., Suite 202, Beacon, NY 12508 or visit valleytable.com.

On the cover: A table setting in the barroom at Crave Restaurant & Lounge (Poughkeepsie) Photo by Jerry Novesky 8

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COPYRIGHT © 2016, THE VALLEY TABLE, INC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, mechanical or electronic, without written permission of the publishers. Advertisements designed by The Valley Table are copyrighted and may not be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission. ISSN 1257-8417

PHOTO BY TOM MUELLER

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SP IRALIZING

GOOD STUFF

OODLES OF ZOODLES

CERTIFIED R EVOLU TION

SUSTAINING FISH AT MARIST A college dining hall may not seem like the place to fan the flames of a revolution in sustainability, but the Student Center Dining Hall at Marist College in Poughkeepsie is taking steps to do just that. In April 2015, after working on the eligibility requirements for more than two years, the college became one of just 13 nationwide to achieve the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) Chain of Custody certification. “Essentially, it’s a process whereby the college, working with the Marine Stewardship Council, ensures that all the fish products we purchase for our dining service operation meet the standards as set forth by the MSC,” says Steve Sansola, Associate Dean for Student Affairs and client rep for the campus dining services. “This certifies that the fish product is sourced through fisheries that are certified in the MSC standards of sustainability, minimized environmental impact, and effective management of those resources.” Sansola sees the MSC certification as an extension of the mission of the school’s dining services. “We are trying to provide the best dining service program that we can offer our young people at the college,” he says. “We want to provide the best food product—meaning the most healthy—and we also want to provide products that are minimally invasive in terms of environmental impact.” And he believes the effort spent working with Sodexo, the school’s food provider, will help the practice spread. “We’re pushing [Sodexo] to push their vendors to only source these products from certified fisheries. They recognize that it’s just a matter of time before this is the norm.” —DN

Dietary trends come and go; sometimes they make perfect sense, and sometimes they don’t. One current fad, however, comes with an impossibly fun range of names that practically guarantees recognition: the practice of replacing noodles with vegetables cut to resemble noodles. Zoodles (zucchini), swoodles (sweet potato), toodles (turnip), poodles (parsnip) and a variety of other oodle-suffixed terms are being coined by chefs, bloggers and avid Spiralizer users nationwide. Spiralizers are either handheld or counter-top slicing gadgets fitted with a revolving brace and a set of knife attachments that allow users to create “vegetoodles” in a variety of shapes and widths. Common models include one for thin vermicellilike shaped cuts; a slightly wider attachment for a rounded, linguini shape; and a flat knife allowing for wide lasagna-like slices. Hudson Valley nutrition-focused foodies like blogger Winnie Abramson (Healthy Green Kitchen), lifestyle guru Kevin Lee Jacobs (author of A Garden for the House) and nutrition educator Holly Shelowitz (Hudson Valley Cooking Classes) have hopped on the trend with a variety of veggieladen “oodle” recipes, and the nutritional advantages clearly add up fast. A single cup of cooked, enriched spaghetti, for example, contains 220 calories, 1 gram of fat and 43 grams of carbohydrates; a cup of raw zucchini—spiralized, sliced or whole—contains only 20 calories, zero fat and 4 grams of carbohydrates. Common spiralizer brands include Veggetti, the Spiralizer and The Paderno World Cuisine Tri-Blade Plastic Spiral Vegetable Slicer. —KS

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EVENT S HUDSON VALLEY RESTAURANT WEEK 230+ RESTAURANTS March 7–20 Presented by The Valley Table, the two-week dining fest showcases the tantalizing flavors, talented chefs and exceptional dining experiences in the Hudson Valley. HudsonValleyRestaurantWeek.com FARM FILM FEST 8 CRANDELL THEATRE, CHATHAM March 13 Watch films that focus on farms from seed to crop, fields to politics, produced by local filmmakers of all ages and skill levels. chathamkeepfarming.org

CEN TENAR IAN LEG AC Y

BREAKFAST AT THE FARM Jones Farm is a legacy in the Orange County town of Cornwall, selling classic, homemade baked goods based on Grandma Phoebe’s original recipes for the past 102 years. In 1978, the family business expanded to include an artisanal gift shop featuring antiques, quirky signs, handcrafted goods and more. Another expansion in 1987 included an art gallery and frame shop, offering original works by Terri Clearwater, antique prints, local photography and professional framing services. In January, the bakery operation expanded to include a café featuring breakfast and lunch served by Chef Lana Roeser. Roeser, a 1980 CIA grad, worked at Rivermede Farm in the Adirondacks, another century-old business, before heading south. After a couple of years at Blooming Hill Farm (Blooming Grove), she found the Jones Farm job opening, which she calls “the perfect fit.” “I insisted on a grab-and-go kind of thing,” Roeser says. As in other parts of the Jones Farm operation, self-serve and convenience are the key words: Freshly made breakfast frittatas, stratas, quiches and breakfast hash are available at a self-serve station where servings are charged per pound. Lunch usually involves sandwiches or other portable dishes, though a recent lunch included sautéed free-range chicken breast with mushrooms, kalamata olives and leeks. In addition to the revolving daily menu, gluten-free and vegetarian options are available. The café is open daily 9–3, closed Tuesdays. “There are so few businesses that last for 100-plus years,” extols Jones Farm owner/president David Clearwater. “I think one of the most interesting things that we’ve been trying to get across is how we’ve changed with the times to stay up to date.” —KS

CAPITAL DISTRICT GARDEN AND FLOWER SHOW HUDSON VALLEY COMMUNITY COLLEGE, TROY March 18–20 Enjoy lush gardens and over 100 brilliant flower arrangement exhibits along with lectures, workshops, demonstrations, and wine tastings. $10 per person. gardenandflowershow.com GILDED AGE TEA & TALK SERIES STAATSBURG STATE HISTORIC SITE, STAATSBURG April 3 Learn about the differences between upper and lower class diets during the Gilded Age over tea and refreshments, and take a tour of the Mills Mansion. Non-members: $30, Mills Mansion members: $25; reservations required. parks.ny.gov/events NEW YORK STREET FOOD AT THE CIA AMERICAN BOUNTY RESTAURANT, HYDE PARK April 6 Oysters, pizza, falafel—come taste the NYC melting pot at The CIA. Meal includes beer from the CIA’s new Brewery: $55 per person, all-inclusive. americanbountyrestaurant.com/events

The Cafe at Jones Farm 190 Angola Rd, Cornwall (845) 534-4445; jonesfarminc.com

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RESET T HE TABLE

THE NEW WEBSITE IS HERE! THE NEW WEBSITE IS HERE!

R AISIN G TH E BAR

HOPPED UP CURRICULUM Between 2013 and 2014, New York State saw a 59 percent increase in the number of craft breweries, and it was only a matter of time before the Culinary Institute of America hopped on the trend. The Brewery at the CIA opened this winter at the newly renovated Student Union—now called The Egg—in partnership with Brooklyn Brewery. “One of our main goals is to elevate beer into the realm of food pairings—to drink beer with greater cuisine than just burgers and wings and pizza,” says Waldy Malouf, Senior Director of Food and Beverage Operations at the CIA. Two flagship brands and a “class project” brew—the first seasonal iteration of its kind—are currently available at the American Bounty Restaurant. The beer varieties will soon be available at The Egg and the college’s other public restaurants. The flagship brews (Cleaver IPA, a golden pale ale, and Mise en Place Wit, an unfiltered Belgian-style wheat beer) were designed in conjunction with Hutch Kugeman, the new brewery’s head brewer, and Garrett Oliver, brewmaster of Brooklyn Brewery. The inaugural class project—Cast Iron Stout—a dark, oatmeal stout with strong malted espresso and chocolate flavors—was designed entirely by CIA students under Kugeman’s guidance. The new curriculum aims to prepare future brewmasters in a craft beer-soaked culinary world, Kugeman explains. “They don’t even know it yet,” he says, “but I’ve already been telling them, ’In five years, you’re going to have a job that no one’s ever even heard of. And it’s going to be really important.’” —KS

On average, about 571 new websites are created every minute. That’s more than 300 million per year. Well, we’re proud to announce that we’ve carve out one little corner of that vast world a world with a redesigned, restructured vallleytable.com. For months, we’ve sculpted our vision of an accessible, easily navigable, visually enticing website to bring more information, magazine content, events, useful links, a new blog and, of course, recipes galore (from truffles to tamales, fettucine to phyllo, if you have a craving, we have a recipe grounded right here in the Hudson Valley). The new site includes exclusive multimedia content, including videos and galleries exploring subjects in greater detail. We’ve just begun to develop some aspects of the new architecture, and the capabilities of the new technology are just this side of infinite. We’re excited about the new site and what we can bring to our growing audience. Visit soon, and often.

—KS ValleyTable.com HudsonValleyRestaurantWeek.com

The Culinary Institute of America 1946 Campus Dr, Hyde Park (845) 452-9600; ciachef.edu

photos courtesy of cia

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EVENT S DAFFODIL TEA AT WILDERSTEIN WILDERSTEIN HISTORIC SITE, RHINEBECK April 16 An afternoon of fine tea, finger sandwiches, homemade cakes and cookies followed by a tour of the Wilderstein Mansion. $30 adults, $20 kids; reservations required. wilderstein.org STONE BARNS CENTER SHEEP SHEARING FEST STONE BARNS CENTER, POCANTICO HILLS April 30 Celebrate the arrival of spring on the farm. Watch the sheep shearing process and professional weavers and spinners at work. $30 adults, $15 children under 14. Event sells out, so reserve early. stonebarnscenter.org

PU TTIN G D OWN R OOT S

SMALLER IS BIGGER The growing popularity of microgreens, sprouts and shoots among home cooks and restauranteurs alike has kickstarted Bryn Roshong’s and Wes Hannah’s Solid Ground Farm into its second growing season. And through a partnership with Pathfinder Farms in Catskill, Solid Ground Farm will be putting down roots to grow their operations. For the spring growing season, Solid Ground is planning to stick with its current production list: sweet pea shoots, sunflower shoots, amaranth, kale, collard, kohlrabi, tatsoi and red arrow radish microgreens, as well as several sprout mixes. Planned additions to this year’s list include sweet corn shoots and buckwheat shoots. The shoots and microgreens can be purchased at the Kingston Farmers Market or at a few local health food stores in the area. During the season, listings of wholesale outlets will be available on solidground.farm and customers can contact directly about bulk orders. There will also be a vegetable CSA and fresh chicken available; pick-up is at the farm in Catskill. Although they’re new to microgreen cultivation, Roshong and Hannah are no strangers to agriculture in the Hudson Valley and beyond. Roshong, operations manager at Farm to Table Co-packers in Kingston, also works at Gansvoort Sheep Farm in Clermont and is a part of the Phillies Bridge Farm Project in Gardiner. Hannah is the crew manager at Hearty Roots Community Farm in Clermont and is an organizer for the National Young Farmer’s Coalition. After working on farms from here to New Mexico, the Hudson Valley is where they plan to stay for the time being. “We always feel lucky to live and farm in the Hudson Valley,” Hanna says, “because it’s an area where small farms are able to thrive, thanks to the vibrant culture of people interested in eating local, sustainable food.” —CS Solid Ground Farm Kingston (518) 528-9382; solidground.farm

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10TH ANNUAL RIP VAN WINKLE WINE AND CHEESE FESTIVAL HISTORIC CATSKILL POINT, CATSKILL May 7 Sip fine wine and relax along the Hudson River shoreline. Festival includes unlimited tasting of local spirits and breweries, artisanal food and live music. $25 per person, kids 12 and under free. greatnortherncatskills.com APPLES, GRAPES, AND BARLEY: A TASTING TOUR MULTIPLE LOCATIONS IN GARDINER AND HIGHLAND May 21 Whitecliff Vineyard, Yard Owl Craft Brewery, Bad Seed Cider, and Gardiner Liquid Mercantile celebrate Earth Day with $20 tasting tours to visit all four craft beverage sites, and taste their bubbly beverages. Whitecliffwine.com 4TH ANNUAL HUDSON-BERKSHIRE WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL COLUMBIA COUNTY FAIRGROUNDS, CHATHAM May 28–29 Taste wines made from grapes grown along the Hudson Berkshire Beverage Trail paired with gourmet cheeses. Unlimited tastings with complimentary wine glass. $25 per person. hudsonberkshirewinefestival.com See valleytable.com for more events

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MACRO M ICRO

MORE SPROUTING

Maybe good things come in small packages, but when that package includes job creation, agribusiness development, a new urban farm for Poughkeepsie and a local source of micro-crops packing a huge nutritional punch, it’s a big deal. Indoor Organic Gardens of Poughkeepsie, a new urban microgreen farm, has taken root inside a 6,000-squarefoot space in the former Kresge building on Main Street. There, IOGP founders Brud Hodgkins, Earl Crum and Karole Mundell currently produce about 150 pounds of microgreens a week using 10 modified grow tables bedded with McEnroe Organic Farm (Millerton) soil. Unlike other “esoteric indoor agriculture,” the Poughkeepsie facility utilizes existing commercial office space fitted with lights and grow tables. “That’s all we have—seeds, dirt and water. No pesticides, no fertilizers,” Hodgkins says, adding, “We’re planning to be big.” He says plans are to eventually increase production to 1,000 pounds weekly and to supply custom-designed and outfitted grow tables to other locations. Microgreens are popular with chefs because of their flavor and visual appeal, Hodgkins notes, “but the real play on microgreens is neither of those things—it’s the nutrition,” Hodgkins explains. For example, one ounce of red cabbage microgreens has the equivalent nutritional

value of two-and-a-half pounds of mature red cabbage. “It’d be pretty hard to sneak two-and-a-half pounds of red cabbage to a six- or eight-year-old, but you could easily sneak an ounce of red cabbage microgreens in their grilled cheese.” In fact, the microgreen farm is currently working with the Poughkeepsie school system to improve the nutritional value of the school lunch program. Currently, the farm grows several varieties of microgreens and microherbs, including cilantro, basil, pea shoots and sorrel, and currently supplies Adam’s Fairacre Farms (Wappingers and Poughkeepsie locations) and the Health Nut Hut (Amenia) with mizuna, purple kohlrabi, Rambo red radish, Garnet giant mustard, red cabbage, kale and arugula. Customers can tour the farm or purchase microgreens directly from the farm, as well. “[They] literally stand there and watch while we harvest it in front of them,” Hodgkins says. A number of Poughkeepsie restaurants also are utilizing the farm, including Le Express, Crave, Rabbit and Turtle, Brasserie 292 and Artist’s Palate. Hodgkins says plans are to distribute the “superfood” throughout the Hudson Valley. “Put them in your tuna fish, put them in your soup, put them in your salad for the nutritional value and flavor. Long-term, we’re going to be able to grow a lot of these things.” —KS

Indoor Gardens of Poughkeepsie Project 316 Main St, Poughkeepsie (845) 790-8075; iogopk@aol.com

photo this page by eva deitch

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A ND T H E WIN N ER S AR E. . .

KUDOS • To Ric Orlando, owner of New World Home Cooking and head chef of New World Bistro Bar, who went head-to-head with celebrity chef Bobby Flay on the Food Network’s Beat Bobby Flay this winter. Chef Orlando (a two-time winner on Chopped, another Food Network show) beat the television personality using two modern twists on his signature latke recipe. • To another Hudson Valley chef in the winner’s circle— 23-year-old Dafna Mizrahi, a CIA grad and chef/owner of Monte’s Local Kitchen & Tap Room in Amenia, who came home from Chopped with $10,000 after beating out three other chefs in a gastropub-themed challenge. She donated half of her winnings to Lucky Orphans Horse Rescue in Dover Plains. • To the New York Wine & Grape Foundation (NYWGF) which in December renamed its toptier annual awards after two of the Hudson Valley’s industry leaders: Phyllis Feder, owner of Clinton Vineyards and past-president of the Dutchess Wine Trail; and James Parker “Jim” Finkle, who passed away this past September with over 25 years experience in the national and regional wine industries. The Phyllis Feder Unity Award will celebrate “major contributions in promoting unity within the industry,” while the Jim Finkle Industry Award will recognize “extraordinary contributions to the advancement of the industry.” • To Blue Hill at Stone Barns in Pocantico Hills, which came in sixth on OpenTable’s “100 Best Restaurants in America for 2015.” The list included a total of 11 restaurants in New York—10 in New York City and one in the Hudson Valley—and is based on more than five million reviews of more than 20,000 restaurants nationwide. • And to Debbie Gioquindo, a.k.a. The Hudson Valley Wine Goddess, named one of the “Top 100 Most Influential Wine Bloggers of 2015” by Excel Wines, based on a statistical algorithm involving social media interactions, internet presence, page views and a variety of other analyses. Gioquindo runs her own consulting company and co-created the wine brand Happy Bitch Wines. —KS

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GONE TO M ARROW

DOWN TO THE BONES Doctors, nutritionists, culinary leaders and health-driven individuals seem to agree—bone marrow broth is the latest “cure-all” kitchen craze. The rich, flavorful, easyto-make elixir purportedly aids a number of cosmetic and medical maladies, including cellulite, joint issues and immunity deficiencies—unfortunately, with little to no scientific evidence supporting the claims. On the other hand, digging deep into bone marrow is yet another legitimate step in “nose-to-tail” cooking—utilizing as much of an animal for food as possible, even parts of the animal previously considered disposable or inedible. Sawkill Farm in Red Hook, for example, is dedicated to whole-animal slaughtering practices; bone broth and tallow soap are available at the farm store year-round. Fleischer’s Craft Butchery in Kingston practices noseto-tail philosophy and offers customers access to all aspects of the animals. Glynwood Farm also offers a number of obscure parts, including chicken feet, goat heart, smoked hock and, of course, pork neck bones. To make bone broth at home, combine pork, lamb, beef, fish or poultry bones with any combination of vegetables (a mirepoix is standard) and simmer for at least 24 hours over low heat or in a slow cooker. The resulting broth can be used in sauces, stews, gravies or consumed alone. For another tasty, Old-World treat, place a few marrow bones in a foil-lined pan and roast in a 450˚F oven about 15 to 20 minutes. Spoon out the softened marrow and spread on toast; garnish with fresh parsley, thyme, basil or even a good bleu cheese. —KS

G OIN G MOB ILE

M AP LE M ADNESS

DINNER IN A BOX

A SWEET TRADITION

While farmers’ markets and CSAs provide Hudson Valley consumers with fresh local produce, dairy, meat and other products, they typically require driving to a specific site on a specific day. For wholesale buyers, the process is magnified. Now, thanks to an app designed by Patricia Wind and Clifford Platt for Farms2Tables, the wholesale farm-to-table movement has gone mobile. One night a few years ago, Wind and Platt were discussing how technology influences industry. Their broad and varied backgrounds (Wind studied computer science and hospitality management, graduated from the CIA and worked for a wholesale wine distributor; Clifford comes from a dairy farming background, has a degree in engineering and has been a processing attorney for more than 20 years), helped them recognize a unique marketing opportunity. Extensive market research identified a major gap in web-based regional distribution programs. “We found that the biggest reason they fail is that they didn’t have the means to deliver,” Wind explains. “You can make a great online platform for farmers and wholesale buyers—but not if you don’t have the trucks to actually get [products] from A to B.” Farms2Tables is run by minimal staff—only Wind, Clifford and three truck drivers. Everything is digitized, from the mobile requests via the app and on-screen signatures by recipients to digitally processed payments and accounting. “All of this stuff happens with technology, so it takes out the cost of an office person having to process all of these things,” Wind says. Customers for the wholesale-based app are primarily restaurants, grocers, food co-ops, schools and institutions—Storm King School and the Rhinebeck School District use the service, for example, as do nursing homes and corporate dining facilities like Etsy’s Brooklyn headquarters. For individuals looking for similar mobile connections with their local farmer, Farms2Tables has targeted private consumers with the “F2T Box.” Priced according to size and frequency, F2T boxes include a broad variety of produce, dairy, protein and value-added items like honey, jam, butter or granola (vegetarian and “no red meat” options also are available). Prices range from $75 to $198 per week, depending on the amount of product included. There are currently seven F2T pick-up locations available in Dutchess, Columbia and Albany Counties, though users are welcome to suggest additional pick-up locations and businesses are encouraged to host pick-up locations. Similar in concept to a CSA share, Wind says the F2T boxes are less risky and offer more variety. “With our model,[consumers] pay weekly—if they’re on vacation and want to take a week off, they can do that.” —KS

Every spring, the members of the New York State Maple Producers Association open their sugar houses to celebrate the maple harvest and the tradition of syrup making. This year’s official maple weekends are March 19–20 and April 2–3. Choose from among 160 farms and museums for a delicious, fun-filled outing centered on maple. A sampling of local tours and tastings is below. Visit valleytable.com for more details.

Farms2Tables Rhinebeck farms2tables.com; thef2tbox.com

Maple Sugar Tours Outdoor Discovery Center, Cornwall-on-Hudson March 5–6, 12–13, 19–20 Take a one-mile hike to the sugar shack, learn how to tap maple trees, and taste fresh, authentic Hudson Valley maple syrup. Non-members: $10 adults, $7 kids 3–17. Members: $7 adults, $4 kids. hhnaturemuseum.org Kids’ Day in Sugarbush at Mohonk Preserve Mohonk Preserve Spring Farm Lot, Gardiner March 6 Bundle up and learn how to make maple syrup around the trunks of countless maple trees. $5 per person; includes a one-mile hike. mohonkpreserve.org/events Maple Fest Ashokan Center, Olivebridge March 12 The delectable duo—fresh maple syrup and a stack of hot pancakes—along with live music by Jay Ungar & Molly Mason and Storie Laurie & Ira McIntosh. $5 admission fee,$6 for pancake breakfast. hudsonriver.com Maple Sugaring Open House Frost Valley YMCA, Claryville March 19-20 & April 2-3 Learn about Frost Valley’s maple tapping history dating back to 1978, and watch nearly 1,200 maple taps in action. frostvalley.org

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OPENINGS

Rosemary and Vine

Chateau Beacon

Rabbit & Turtle

Rosemary and Vine 29 Purchase St, Rye (914) 481-8660 rosemaryandvine.com

Chateau Beacon 37 Lamplight St, Beacon (845) 765-8874 chateaubeacon.com

Rabbit & Turtle 302 Main St, Poughkeepsie (845) 345-9964 rabbitandturtlepubrestaurant.com

Diners craving bistro-style vegetarian cuisine on the fly need look no further. Rosemary and Vine in Rye offers variations on authentic Mediterranean dishes— entirely meatless, clearly labeled as containing nuts, gluten or dairy—for dinein, pick-up and catering. The four-section menu targets a variety of sizes and tastes: petites, cazuelas, dolces and a kids menu. Pair small-plate classics like hummus and babaganoush with a variety of filling main courses (each only $10), including traditional falafel and Moroccan tagine. For the kids, order any mini cazuela (served in smaller portions) or a Mediterranean-influenced American classic: grilled cheese pita with Welsh cheddar and vegetable slaw, organic milk and biscotti. Owners Berj Yeretzian and Tania Rahal, originally from Lebanon, completely redesigned the former Upper Crust Bagel Company space with massive windows, reclaimed wooden counters and an open kitchen and food counter. The restaurant itself combines convenience and class, an efficient “order up” system in a clean, modern setting. A bar area serves up a mix of Mediterranean and local wine and beer, including Whitecliff Riesling and Doc’s Draft Hard Apple Cider, plus a rotating list of draft beer. Sun 11:30–8:30pm; Mon–Thu 11:30am–9pm, Fri–Sat 11:30am–10:30pm

“We all had a dream of opening a restaurant,” says Abhishek Mukherjee, one of the four owners of Beacon’s new restaurant and banquet hall. Mukherjee and co-owners Paul Evwiehor, Melissa Evwiehor and Rafael Mendez opened the doors this December in the expansive location (previously Mary Kelly’s). The new owners transformed the Irish tavern into an elegant banquet space and pub-style bar, accented with warm wooden furnishings. Chef James Abbatiello, a Le Cordon Bleu graduate, emphasizes locally sourced ingredients in the Mediterranean-inspired menu—natural, free-range beef, chicken and fish are paired with Hudson Valley produce from Red Barn Produce in Highland in dishes like salmon with celery root and parsnip purée, red quinoa and lemon dill beurre blanc. A bar menu offers lighter fare, while the expansive Sunday brunch can only be described as lavish. As a banquet hall, restaurant and pubstyle bar, Beacon’s new culinary trifecta can accommodate parties of almost any size. Live music on weekends. Tue-Thu 4:30–10:30, Fri–Sat 4:30pm–1am, Sun 11–3, 4:30–10:30

Chef John Holm is “bringing a modern element to Poughkeepsie” with co-owner and local culinary legend Pascal Graff (owner of Le Bouchon in Cold Spring and Alain Bistro in Nyack). Holm, who worked with Graff previously at Brasserie de Paris in Hoboken, designed an eclectic, modern American menu that suits the aptly named, multi-tiered restaurant. “[My] background is French cooking, but we want to get away from that—I like to play around with my food and manipulate it in ways that you don’t expect,” he says. Surprises include Atlantic cod with leek, rutabaga gratin and red beet (the leeks are gelled, the beets are served as a foam “more like an air,” and the roasted parsnip purée is butter-poached for over five hours and served with apple cider caviar). As for the restaurant’s name: “The rabbit is the front part—very eclectic, a modern twist—and everything is very fast,” Graff explains. The high energy of the bar area settles to a simmer in the lounge and dining room in the back, “a beautiful restaurant where you can take your time, where you can relax.” The unique dining experience joins a revitalized dining scene in downtown Poughkeepsie. “I absolutely love Main Street,” Graff says. “Poughkeepsie is in revival mode—and I believe in it. It’s the last stop on the train, anyway.” Tue–Thu noon–3, 5–9pm; Fri noon–3, 5–10pm; Sat 5–10pm; Sun 11am–4, 5–9pm

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Huckleberry

Huckleberry 21 Church St, New Paltz (845) 633-8443 huckleberrynewpaltz.com Tucked away from New Paltz’s main drag, away from the high-volume collegedominant nightlife, is a warmly lit newcomer to the village’s vibrant dining scene. Owners Mike O’Neil, Leah Allen, Julie Dabbs and Billy Simkiss came from Brooklyn to fill a niche they saw in the New Paltz dining and nightlife scene—an eatery a step up from the college bars but more casual than fine dining. Local breweries dominate the taps; craft cocktails (like the popular Cattle Dog, a whiskey-and-cider spiced up with elderflower, cinnamon and lemon) are inventive yet affordable. Chef Kyle Chandler’s small-plate menu can be described as “pub fare with a twist.” Chef Chandler finds his menu inspiration by sourcing locally from farms, including Taliferro and Sprout Creek. The space includes a large outdoor patio as well as an upstairs dining area outfitted with eclectic decor and board games. The kitchen is open late enough to accommodate the college crowd. Diners are encouraged to order at the bar and seat themselves to enjoy “the bar that happens to serve really good food.” Mon-Thu 4pm-2am, Fri-Sat noon-4am, Sun noon-2am

Perch

Woodnotes Grille

Perch 1 King St, Marlboro (845) 236-3663

Woodnotes Grille Emerson Resort and Spa 5368 Rt 28, Mt Tremper (877) 688-2828 woodnotesgrille.com

After decades of success with a traditional Northern Italian menu at Cathryn’s Tuscan Grill in Cold Spring, owner Cathryn Fadde has broadened her horizons with a locally sourced, globally inspired menu in the old Brick House location in Marlboro. The menu’s foreign flavor profiles have no bounds—Latin, Asian and North African influences are evident throughout. “The more diversity that your menu has,” Fadde says, “the more people will come to your door.” Seasonal specials are listed alongside culinary staples on a halfconstant, half-rotating menu. Flights of rotating local brews are available in fourbrew samplings and wine from Warwick Valley, Benmarl, Robibero and Millbrook are available at the full bar. The two-floor, 100-seat Art Deco restaurant features an aged-wood bar with copper inlays, bordered by turquoise and chartreuse stained glass from the 1930s. A glass-paneled patio overlooks the center of the hamlet. “It’s such a great building and I could see what I could do to make it a community asset again,” Fadde says of the space. Don’t expect the same old thing from Fadde in the new location. “I love the food we have on the menu at Cathryn's, but I didn't want to do exactly the same thing,” she says. “I am looking forward to using produce, grains, meats and fowl...we even have shrimp farmed in Newburgh.” Mon, Wed–Fri 11:30–9:30, Sat-Sun noon–10:30

Following a year-long, $3 million renovation, Emerson Resort and Spa debuted its latest Catskill-centric restaurant in early December. Based on Ralph Waldo Emerson’s famous poem, the contemporary country-style restaurant offers a variety of locally sourced dishes. “For me, Catskill regional food is what we find in the hills,” manager Greg Gagne explains. “That’s foraged items like mushrooms, nuts, trout from the rivers around here.” He describes the menu as “rustic” and “very approachable.” The New York strip, for example, is from Hudson Valley Cattle Company; it pairs with seasonal sides like roasted sunchokes and winter greens from a Delaware County farm. “We like to keep moving and experimenting and playing, because we’re still defining ourselves, from the kitchen to the bar,” Gagne says. Head Chef Alain V. De Coster, previously an instructor at the CIA and the French Culinary Institute, runs the kitchen with Sous Chef Renee Cory, a Johnson and Wales graduate. The restaurant seats up to 80, including the bar area, with open access to The Great Room, where diners can enjoy their meal in front of the massive fireplace or by the floor-to-ceiling windows with views of the Catskills. Mon–Fri 7am–noon, 5–9pm; Sat–Sun 7am–noon, 5–10pm

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the

calculated cut

by marissa sertich velie | photos by eva deitch

o r m o s t o f to day ’ s s h o p p e r s , t h e p r o c e s s o f b u y i n g meat has been reduced to wandering fluorescent-lit aisles filled with plastic-wrapped foam platters of factory-raised, hormonepumped meats of unknown origin. Luckily, Barb Fisher is in town. A mathematician by profession and (former) vegetarian by preference, Fisher opened Barb’s Butchery in a quiet residential neighborhood in Beacon’s east end just over a year ago. Consequently, the list of former vegetarians in Beacon is growing. Originally from Detroit, Fisher worked her way through Kentucky and Pennsylvania before a Math for America fellowship brought her to New York City, where she taught math at a South Bronx high school. By 2006, she and her husband had relocated to Beacon and she was a mathematics professor at SUNY Orange.

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A lot of the 401k stuff is stocks. I’m like, enough stocks! Let’s invest in Main Street, not Wall Street.

On some level, mathematics is an advanced form of logic, and it comes as no surprise that Fisher’s seemingly drastic career change actually was a studied, investigated, calculated and logical move, not one of those exploding light bulb Ah Hah! insights. “When I knew I was done teaching,” she recalls, “I asked myself, ‘What does Beacon need? What do I want to do? What do I want to learn about?’ And then I started thinking we should have a butcher shop. So I started investigating and I asked around—‘How do I become a butcher?’” As a resident of Beacon for 10 years, Fisher had watched its growth and transformation. She sees the city as a connecting point between the upper and lower Hudson Valley—“A good central spot for lots of stuff,” she says. The building she and her husband bought (a former neighborhood deli) was a perfectly logical choice. “It’s about investing in Beacon. A lot of the 401K stuff is stocks. I’m like, enough stocks! Let’s invest in Main Street, not Wall Street.” Coming from a family of hunters developed Fisher’s interest in where her food came from, especially meat. As a young girl, she’d helped her dad butcher deer and other animals. “Cutting meat wasn’t completely foreign, but I’d never had any formal training or anything. It’s part of what made it really fun for me because it was totally new and different.” Through the 1990s, Fischer was inspired by popular nutritionist and fitness writer Susan Powter [author of Stop the Insanity (rpt. Gallery Books, 2010; $20.89 paperback), The Politics of Stupid: The Cure for Obesity (Atria Books, 2008; $14 paperback), and others] and avoided all meat and milk. “I was just done,” she says. “I did eat some cheese and some farm milk, but that was it.” But when she started running in 2000, she felt that her body needed extra sustenance. “Honest—I went out to dinner one

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Ever the mathematician, Fisher gets excited about the science of, say, a smoked beef brisket.

night and was like, I need a steak! I got a huge prime rib and a bottle of wine,” she laughs. “It took me three hours to eat it.” (Eventually, she began eating other meats again, but it was a mindful transition that took a long time and some serious investigation of sources.) Fisher knew that Beacon needed a good butcher shop where customers could buy local, wholesome and traceable meats. She had a CSA membership at Obercreek Farm, so she asked the famers there where she should start. They pointed to butcher Mark Elia, owner of Elia’s Catering and House of Sausages, in Highland. He taught Fisher basic knife skills, how to break down animals and even shared his recipes her. She studied with Elia for 18 months and he helped her build the store in the process. “He tutored me—he was crucial,” Fisher stresses. “I wouldn’t be here without that man.” It didn’t take long for Fisher to realize that she liked cutting meat. “I hear people talk about knitting and how they can ‘zone out’ and do their thing. Running did that for me—I could just zone out. And doing math I could zone out. So now I make hotdogs and I do the same thing—when I cut meat I get very calm. It’s nice to work with my hands like that and do something totally different.” Fisher especially likes the nose-to-tail aspect of cutting meat. “I buy whole animals—and how much I spend on meat depends on how good of a butcher I am,” she notes. “The yield varies depending on how close to bone I can get and how much I can figure out how to use.” Ever the mathematician, Fisher is constantly experimenting and testing. She gets excited about the science of, say, a smoked beef brisket. “I’m about to do the most ridiculous mathematician thing,” she admits, explaining the physics behind the “evaporative cooling” process. “The brisket will hit a temperature and

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People have told me that they started eating meat when we opened.

level out for about three hours—people lose their minds trying to heat it up, [but] it’s at the point where the moisture in the meat has to evaporate before the meat’s temperature can go up. It’s the same [principle] as having ice in a pot that you’re trying to boil—the ice has to phase shift and melt before the pot will boil.” Fisher hopes to get special meat probes for her brisket so she can run experiments with her smoker. “They hook right up to the computer and measure everything!” she exclaims. “I can’t wait!” Fisher is equally as passionate about the sources of the meat she offers; she wants to know the farmers personally and trust that they are using best practices. She gets the majority of her animals from Josef Meiller Farm and Slaughterhouse in Pine Plains, Dashing Star Farm in Millerton and Hudson Valley Harvest. “When I ask for grass-finished, I trust that my farmer is not feeding my steers corn and then grain finished,” she says. “I know that they’re handled right—I’ve talked to the farmers.” All of her sources use Temple Grandin’s teaching and practices. (Grandin, whose insights into the minds of cattle has revolutionized how animals are handled during the slaughtering process, is the author of the landmark book, Humane Livestock Handling: Understanding Livestock Behavior and Building Facilities for Healthier Animals (Storey Publishing, 2008; $24.95 paperback), which became an international bestseller and is considered the Bible of humane slaughtering. Fisher notes that meat quality declines if the animals haven’t been treated correctly. “There is bruising, color changes and lots of other things that physically change the meat when an animal has been stressed,” she says. To say Fisher’s meat looks and tastes different from what’s generally available in a big-box grocery store is an understatement. Her shop

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not only offers local meats, but customers can have a knowledgeable conversation with staff who can help guide the buying process—and she’ll even share recipes. “People have told me that they started eating meat when we opened,” she says, “and that their digestive systems and bodies just feel better because it’s local and sourced clean and good for you.” And don’t forget lunch. The shop offers a cheeseburger, pulled pork sandwich, pork cutlet sandwich and a different special every day. Kyle Briggs is the head cook and is responsible for creating all of the sandwiches. The portions are large and give people the opportunity to taste the meat “in action.” “That’s one of the nice things about noseto-tail,” Fisher says. “Everything we cook is from the stuff we cut. I don’t go out for steak anymore—whatever Kyle cooks, I eat.” 4 Barb’s Butchery 69 Spring St, Beacon (845) 831-8050; barbsbutchery.com

COUNTRY STYLE PORK RIBS BARB FISHER / BARB’S BUTCHERY Country-style pork ribs are a cut of meat found between the pork shoulder and traditional rib pork chops. The meat is typically well marbled and will have enough fat to keep it moist while cooking. This cut makes great kabobs. Ingredients 11/2 pounds pork ribs 1 teaspoon white pepper 1 teaspoon sea salt 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon onion powder 1 teaspoon paprika serves 2 Method 1. In a small bowl, stir together the white pepper, salt, garlic powder, onion powder and paprika until evenly mixed. 2. Apply a liberal coating of the spice mix onto the pork ribs. Let rest for 10 minutes. 3. Heat grill to medium/high heat and brush the grill surface with some canola oil so the pork doesn’t stick. 4. Place ribs on the grill and cook 8 to 10 minutes per side (the internal temperature of the pork should be at least 145°F). 5. Optional: If you like sauced ribs, brush on the sauce about 2 minutes before the ribs finish.

BRAISED BEEF SHANK BARB FISHER / BARB’S BUTCHERY Ingredients 2 cross-cut beef shanks (about 1.5 pounds) 1 pint to 1 quart of beef stock (use beef broth if you have it) 1/2 cup diced celery 1/2 cup diced carrots 1/2 cup diced onion A splash of red wine (to deglaze the searing pan) 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon pepper 2 sprigs fresh thyme (or 2 large pinches dried thyme) serves 2 Method Preheat oven to 325° F. 1. Sprinkle both sides of the beef shank with salt and pepper. 2. In a braising pot, sear both sides of the shank on the stove. 3. Remove the beef shank from the pot and add a bit of red wine to deglaze. Bring the wine to a boil while whisking to pull up beef drippings. 4. Add the celery, carrots and onions to the pot. 5. Put the beef shank back into the pot and add enough beef stock to cover ²/³ of the shank. 6. Cover and put the pot into oven. Cook for 2 hours, or until meat is very tender.

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living local: le express

by marissa sertich velie | photos by eva deitch

r o m t h e b r o n x to t h e b e r k s h i r e s , restaurants are promoting an increasingly popular trend: an awareness—even a preference—by consumers for things that are grown, produced or manufactured nearby. Micro-batch bourbons line bar shelves, local meats and cheeses enhance menus, and daily specials feature fresh, hand-picked produce from farms literally right around the corner. Yet, even as farm-to-table practices become more commonplace, some chefs and restaurateurs distinguish themselves with an exceptionally deep-rooted dedication to the local community. For locavore-restaurateur John Lekic of Le Express Bistro in Poughkeepsie, farm-to-table means more than just including the names of a few local farms on the menu—it involves a commitment to the long-term health and betterment of the Hudson Valley community at large. Ask him about his relationships with local farmers and the floodgates open. From his excitement about the season’s first ramps

to conducting side-by-side heritage chicken tastings with his staff, his energy is infectious and his spirit is focused on making the Hudson Valley synonymous with farmer-chef collaboration and local stewardship. Born in Montenegro, a small country along the coast of the Adriatic Sea, Lekic came to New York City as a 14-year-old and worked his way through the hot kitchens of Manhattan, Las Vegas and the Napa Valley. Ten years ago, family connections brought him to the Hudson Valley, the place he now calls home. He felt that a French-style bistro serving Europeaninspired, New American cuisine was the right concept for the area. For Lekic, opening a restaurant was about more than finding a location and creating a menu; he recognizes that the life of a restaurant is in its people. “The restaurant is a family,” he says. “It’s a gathering place that’s very much alive.” His wife, Sara, works with him in the front of the house and together they greet guests,

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Look around— there is so much beauty, so much history. We just have to embrace it.

pour drinks and share stories. “I’ve learned a lot about the local products,” she smiles. “Before the restaurant, I never knew about hen-of-the-woods mushrooms—now I love them!” There are plenty of traditional items on the menu at Le Express—like steak au poivre and croque-monsieur—but alongside them are Brussels sprout salad with Granny Smith apples, blue cheese and pancetta; or a crispy seared Portuguese octopus with local vegetables, lemon crème fraiche and togarashi pepper flakes. Lekic admits, “Some of the things are not so traditional because I want to serve the food that I like to eat.” For Lekic, ingredients drive the menu and create the restaurant’s core. “You should build the restaurant on the ingredients that the region produces best,” he says. Sprout Creek Farm (Poughkeepsie), Obercreek Farm (Wappingers Falls), Madura Farms (Pine Island), Olde Forge Farms (Wassaic), Common Ground Farm (Wappingers Falls) and Fishkill Farms (Hopewell Junction) are a few of the major purveyors providing produce to Le Express. Being intimately connected to local farmers differentiates Lekic’s Hudson Valley culinary experience from other places that he’s worked. “In the city, there are so many people and so many restaurants—huge companies— and usually you’re dealing with a middle man. You don’t get to actually meet the farmer or see the fields, at least not very often. You just don’t have the same sense of place.” Lekic has been in the Hudson Valley long enough to remember when the economy of the region was fueled by the presence of companies like IBM. Now, he says, the economic climate has changed and refocused. “Now, we need agritourism,” he says. “Look around—there is so much beauty, so much history. All of the

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ingredients are here. We just have to embrace it.” It’s no surprise these days when restaurants list local farms on their menus, or to publicize their use of organic, local, free-range foods, but for Lekic, naming a farm or local producer on the menu board is just the first step toward educating his customers. “Listing the farms on the menu is good, but sometimes there are more things that need to be said about the story of the food,” he explains, adding that he prefers face-to-face conversations with his customers so he can personally tell them the story behind a dish or ingredient. Fueled by the philosophies of food pioneers like Alice Waters and Wendell Berry, he describes local food and ingredients as “real,” as opposed to the mass-produced, anonymous ingredients from factory farms or fast-food joints. Lekic worries about the disconnect between what people eat and where their food comes from, a concern spawned by his involvement with the region’s farming community. “When you’re mass-producing beef or eggs or lamb—or anything—it’s different [from] the food coming from a garden or small farm,” he says. “It’s a difficult concept to grasp when you haven’t experienced the difference. Seeing the farms awakens a passion in the food you bring to the table.” Lekic fuels his passion by working directly with farmers when ordering ingredients. He visits his source farms multiple times per year, and he brings his restaurant staff to the farms, as well, so they too can learn more about the food they work with on a daily basis. “The relationship of the restaurateurs, chefs, farmers and producers is living because we influence each other,” Lekic says. “When [farmers] take me on the farm they ask me, ‘John, do you

know about that?’ and I must admit that I don’t, but I’m always happy to learn. When you speak to individuals rather than to multi-million dollar companies, you learn something.” Several years ago, Lekic and farmers Dan and Vivian Madura, of Madura Farms in Pine Island, connected during a Hudson Valley Restaurant Week kick-off event and they’ve been friends ever since. “Professionals in the industry can use Restaurant Week to find new sources and make meaningful connections,” Lekic notes. “It’s about focusing on what we have in the Hudson Valley and making sure we tell the story of the region. But we can’t do it alone—we can only do it together. The chefs, restaurateurs and farmers really need each other and we need to strengthen that relationship.” Located in Orange County’s Black Dirt region, famous for its fertile, bistre-brown soil, Madura Farms is known for its many varieties of mushrooms, along with flavorful chicken eggs. Lekic admires Vivian’s treatment of the birds as pets, rather than chattel. He points to them as the perfect example of Hudson Valley terroir. “I guess [the chickens] eat onions, mushrooms and whatever is found at the farm,” he smiles in outward admiration for Vivian’s practices. “When you break the eggs, the deep orange color of the yolk and intensity of the flavors are just incredible.” Lekic doesn’t hesitate to share his sources with customers at the restaurant, and several of his guests have visited Boscobel Farmers’ Market to buy Madura eggs on his recommendation. For Lekic, exposing costumers to new flavors is part of the fun of being a restaurateur. He’s quick to share a picture of the Pomeranian of chickens—silkies—Asian birds with dark, gamey meat and a texture akin to pheasant

that he gets from Olde Forge Farms in Amenia. Lekic slow cooked the last batch he received with red wine, carrots and cipollini onions and served them with garlic mash. Most people “have never had a real chicken,” he says. “People think, ‘Chicken—what’s the big deal?’ But it is a big deal.” Educating consumers about the benefits of buying local has led Lekic to participate in many farm dinners, and he’s opened a food truck that will allow him to bring his kitchen right into the fields where the food is grown. The truck, simply called Farmers & Chefs, is still being completed, but when it is, Lekic hopes to create a casual dining experience accessible to everyone. His guiding principle? “We shouldn’t have to spend a fortune to experience real food.” The truck’s kitchen is “small but mighty,” and it will give Lekic the capability to serve more than 200 people. The truck’s home base will be at the Poughkeepsie Children’s Museum, which does not have a full kitchen. “My intention is to do tasting dinners at the farms and at the waterfront with the Children’s Museum,” he says, adding that he plans to share the truck with other chefs and restaurateurs so they can share their own unique interpretations of local ingredients. “It’s in all our benefit to become a community,” Lekic says. “I’d rather have more restaurants around me than be the only one—it’s better for everybody. We have to be stronger as a community. Be proud of who and what’s next to you—that’s a successful strategy. The more the merrier.” 4

When you speak to individuals rather than to multimillion dollar companies, you learn something.

Le Express Bistro 1820 New Hackensack Rd, Poughkeepsie (845) 849-3565; lexpresshv.com

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ROASTED GOOSE

BUCATINI AMATRICIANA

JOHN LEKIC / LE EXPRESS

Ingredients 8- to 9-pound fresh Toulouse goose (source: Turkana Farms, Germantown) 4 lemons 3 limes 1 teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder small handful each of parsley sprigs, thyme and sage, plus extra for garnish a little olive oil for browning, optional 3 tablespoons clear honey 1 tablespoon thyme leaf serves 4 Method Preheat oven to 180˚F. 1. If the goose is ready-trussed, loosen the string and pull out the legs and wings a little—this helps the bird cook better. Check the inside of the bird and remove any giblets or pads of fat. Using the tip of a sharp knife, lightly score the breast and leg skin in a criss-cross. This helps the fat to render down more quickly during roasting. 2. Grate the zest from the lemons and limes. Mix with 2 teaspoons fine sea salt, the five-spice powder and pepper to taste. Season the cavity of the goose generously with salt, then rub the citrus mix well into the skin and sprinkle some inside the cavity. 3. Stuff the zested fruit and the herb sprigs inside the bird and set aside for at least 15 minutes. (This can be done up to a day ahead and kept refrigerated.) 4. Place the goose in a pan, cover with foil, and bake at 180˚F for 31/2 hours. Every 30 minutes or so, baste the bird with the pan juices, then pour off the fat through a sieve into a large heatproof bowl. You will end up with at least a liter of luscious fat—save this for potatoes or other vegetables. 5. At the end of the cooking time, turn oven up to 350˚F and finish the bird at 350°F for 15 minutes. 6. Remove the goose from the oven, cover loosely with fresh foil and let it rest for at least 30 minutes. (The bird will not go cold, but will be moist and much easier to carve.)

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Ingredients 1 28-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, more for serving 1/4 Nduja sausage without skin, diced 3 cloves garlic, chopped 1/4 Vidalia Spanish onion chopped 6 fresh basil leaves, torn kosher salt to taste 1 pound bucatini or spaghetti, cooked until al dente 3 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley grated aged Parmigiano Reggiano for serving 2 hard-boiled Madura Farm chicken eggs, chopped serves 4 to 6 Method 1. Purée the tomatoes to a smooth, creamy consistency in a food processor or with an immersion blender; set aside. 2. In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. When hot, add the Nduja Sausage and sauté 5 to 7 minutes. 3. Add the garlic and Vidalia onion; sauté 1 minute. 4. Add the puréed tomatoes, basil, and salt to taste. 5. Reduce the heat to medium-low, stir well and cook, uncovered, 15 minutes, or until the sauce darkens and thickens. 6. Toss with just-cooked pasta. Garnish with a sprinkling of parsley, chopped hard-boiled egg, cheese and a drizzle of olive oil.

DRINK

hudson valley

kosher

by timothy buzinski

photo this page helanna bratman

n t h e h u d s o n va l l e y t o day , s m a l l i s b i g . fa m i ly wineries, micro breweries, small-batch distillers, artisanal this and hand-made that—there’s a seeming treasure trove of limited-edition local spirits being produced, and more show up every week. But while many of these successful new craft producers count their output in dozens of cases or hundreds of bottles, a significant portion of the U.S. population is served by a Hudson Valley winery whose production of wine and juice is measured in hundreds of thousands of cases.

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Heating a wine essentially guarantees its quality will be just slightly above dishwater.

Kedem Winery, in Marlboro, is owned by the Royal Wine Corporation, of Bayonne, New Jersey, the largest producer, distributor and marketer of kosher products in the world. While the label kosher on a wine bottle used to be synonymous with sweet, cloying, substandard wine, modern production methods (and changes in Jewish law) have brought some surprisingly high quality kosher wines to the market. Because wine plays a significant role in Jewish ritual meals—especially during Passover (April 23 to 30)—wine enthusiasts may notice more bottles of kosher wine on the shelves of local wine shops this spring. Thus the questions: What makes a wine kosher? and Are kosher wines any good? In general, kosher (meaning fit, proper or pure) is a term used to describe food harvested, handled and prepared following rules defined in rabbinical law that ensure its “purity” and suitability for use in Orthodox practice. Contrary to popular belief, this involves much more that a simple blessing; it includes supervision of all aspects of production and serving. A kosher label on wine signifies that only practicing Jews harvested and processed the grapes, then bottled the wine. In some strict interpretations of the law, the wine bottles may be handled only by Jews, and the wine consumed at a dinner or ceremonial seder must be poured by a Jew (though this rule is often interpreted liberally). Though not a significant word in our twenty-first century vocabulary, “idolatry” (the practice of devotion to a physical object as if a god) was quite common in ancient times, and that worship often involved wine. “The essential issue around kosher wine,” explains Rabbi Brent Chaim Spodek, of the Beacon Hebrew Alliance, “is the concern that it had been used, at some point, for idolatrous worship.” That is, only making wine under kosher rules would guarantee its “purity” and suitability for use at a temple or for a seder. (Interestingly, only fermented grape juice is subject to these laws; the fermented products of other fruits were not restricted, since these were not used in idolatry.)

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To further ensure purity, the added step of boiling the wine was introduced. The process makes the wine mevushal (meaning cooked or boiled). Wine treated this way may be handled by Jews and non-Jews alike and still remain kosher. (It is important to point out that not all kosher wine is made mevushal; there are many kosher wines on the market that have not undergone the heating process.) Heating a wine essentially guarantees its quality will be just slightly above dishwater; thus, it was assumed, the wine would be unacceptable for idolatrous purposes and perhaps social interactions, as well. The mevushal process has changed significantly using modern technology. Gone, for example, are the requirements of a long, hot boiling process; today, flash pasteurization (a heating/cooling cycle that takes only seconds) minimizes the detrimental effects and helps maintain the character of the wines. Of course, mevushal or not, many other restrictions apply to the production of kosher wine, ranging from when the grapes can be picked to what kind of filters can be used in processing. Historically, kosher wines were generally considered inferior, though that opinion has changed: Many modern kosher wines, especially those produced in Israel, are very highly regarded. But let’s get back to New York and the Hudson Valley. As New York City’s Jewish population swelled to more than 1.5 million by the 1940s, so did the demand for kosher wine, and New York quickly became a leading source for these wines. Meyer Star and his son, Leo, established a winery in western New York’s Chautauqua County, originally making wine solely for ceremonial purposes. As demand grew, they purchased property in lower Manhattan to properly process and bottle their kosher wines under their Monarch Wine Company label. In a masterful marketing move, Monarch struck a licensing deal with a Cleveland-based kosher food

Many modern kosher wines, especially those produced in Israel, are very highly regarded.

producer, and the kosher wine that, for better or worse, defined the term for millions of people, was born: Manischewitz. Sweet, syrupy and inexpensive, Manischewitz was known only in Jewish circles until another brilliant marketing move in the 1960s brought it into the mainstream: Sammy Davis Jr.’s Man, Oh Manischewitz television commercial. Now owned by Constellation Brands, the wine is still made using New York grapes. The Royal Wine Corporation, established in the Williamsburg section of Brooklyn in 1948, is where Yonah “Eugene” Herzog went to work after immigrating from what was then Czechoslovakia. Descended from a long line of winemakers in Europe, Herzog eventually bought the company in 1958 and purchased a winery and vineyard in Milton, naming it Kedem (before in Hebrew). Following many years of operation there, the winery moved to its current location on Rt. 9W in Marlboro. All the wines produced in the Hudson Valley under the Kedem label are from fruit grown in the Finger Lakes. In terms of volume, Kedem ranks second among Hudson Valley wineries, producing an estimated half million cases of wine annually (though none of its grapes are grown in the Hudson Valley). By contrast, the next largest wine producer in the Hudson Valley (which also has wineries in California) makes about 15,000 cases annually; the largest producer of wines in the region using strictly Hudson Valley grapes produces about 7,000 cases annually. Kedem produces both white and red wines; they range in style from dry to dessert-like sweetness. Kedem Classic White ($6.99), for example, is a good option when having lighter meals based on vegetables or fish; its blend of varietals offers plenty of green apple fruit with a pop of fresh acidity. The Classic Red ($5.59), on the other hand, is reminiscent of a traditional Tuscan wine: a light body, with bright red fruit and, of course, the hallmark Finger Lakes acidity—a good pairing with red-sauced pastas, or sautéed

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or braised chicken dishes. Better still is the Cabernet Franc ($9.99)—while not heavy, this red (barrel-aged 18 months) has more depth, is dry and focuses on an interplay between the baking spice notes from the oak and the earthy forest floor and bell pepper elements common to the varietal. The tasting room at the winery stocks a complete line of kosher wines from all over the world in addition to those produced from New York fruit. “People like the variety,” explains winery manager Tara-Joy Coupart, who adds that many tasters don’t even know the wines are kosher before arriving at the winery. Visitors also will find premium offerings from Royal’s California winery, Herzog Wine Cellars; sherry from Spain’s Tio Pepe Winery; dry wines from Israel’s Yatir Winery; and even wines from Bordeaux (such as top-flight Saint-Julien producer Château Léoville-Poyferre). All, of course, produced to kosher standards. The breadth of kosher wine available at Kedem and at local wine stores may be surprising for casual consumers. The fact is, kosher winemaking has progressed to meet the quality standards established by its non-kosher counterparts, and winemakers have been able to overcome the restrictions of even mevushal requirements. Despite the persistent stereotypes of poor quality and sweetness, kosher winemaking has evolved and grown; the kosher wine category is thriving and has created an opportunity for consumers to explore an alternate world of wine. Kosher wines are out of the closet, so to speak, and they’re not used just for religious purposes. As Rabbi Spodek notes, “If you drink kosher wine at synagogue, then you’ll drink kosher wine at the table.” 4 Kedem Winery Tasting Room 1519 Rt 9W, Marlboro (845) 236-3651 kedemwinery.com Tasting room open Sun–Thu 10–5

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MAPLE DAYS on STORM KING photographs by ethan harrison

t’s no secret that maple syrup is big business in the Hudson Valley—of the more than 2 million trees tapped statewide last year, nearly 80,000 were here. But while big producers use high-tech methods to gather, handle and process hundreds of thousands of gallons of syrup, there’s something decidedly unromantic about the hum of a micro vacuum pulling sap through miles of saplines mapped with lasers. Up on Storm King Mountain, near Cornwall (Orange County), Wynn and Ledlie Klosky’s Storm King Farm has no lasers. They cut the wood they need to keep the boilers hot; they gather the plastic sap buckets and carry them back to the house one or two at a time; they know by taste and color when the syrup is ready; they’ve even named a couple of their favorite trees—Avalon, and Two Trunks McGee (the biggest producer). The total annual production from their backyard facility is all of 12 gallons—but it suits them just fine, thank you. Ledlie's conversations and questions aren’t about how to grow the business. He has more basic things on his mind: “How close to the earth—to the original thing—can I get?” Storm King Farm welcomes visitors. Their products are available only at the farm. Check their Facebook page for details and announcements.

Storm King Farm 88 Maple Rd, Cornwall-on-Hudson (845) 534-0130 MARCH COM march –– MAY may 2016 2016 VALLEYTABLE valleytable . com

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How close to the earth— to the original thing— can I get?

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dine ,

elebrating our 10th anniversary of hudson valley Restaurant Week, the dining extravaganza returns March 7-20 with over 230 restaurants participating. Since its inception in 2006, HVRW has grown to be the largest celebration of dining in the Hudson Valley, boosting business and boosting spirits. Now offered twice a year (spring and fall), the event has grown to attract an estimated 1 million diners each year. In 2015, HVRW generated an estimated $20 million in sales revenue and an estimated $1.6 million in tax revenue, according to a survey of participating restaurants. It is leading the way in promoting the Hudson Valley as premier culinary destination. The prix fixe price point (three-course dinner for $29.95 and three-course lunch for $20.95, not including beverage, tax or tip) makes dining out at some of the valley’s top-tier restaurants a bargain. Participating restaurants span seven Celebrate the Hudson Valley and toast counties (Westchester, to 10 years of great dining. With so Rockland, Dutchess, many amazing restaurants, there’s only Putnam, Orange, one question: How many can you visit Ulster and Sullivan). Participating chefs take in 14 days? We want to hear from you: pride in using Take 10 and complete our brief survey at great seasonal and sustainable HudsonValleyRestaurantWeek.com, and products—often sourcing you could win one of 10 great prizes. from surrounding farms— and represent a wide variety of cuisines, including Argentinean, French, German, Greek, Indian, Irish, Italian, Japanese, Nuevo Latino, Mediterranean, Mexican and New American. Many restaurants also prepare specialty cocktails and feature local craft beers and wines. “It’s all about bringing attention to the level of dining we have here in the Hudson Valley. There are so many dining options in this area, from small ethnic places to fine dining to the latest serious pub,” says Janet Crawshaw, publisher of The Valley Table. This year, we take special pride in noting those restaurants that have participated in Restaurant Week since its inception (those marked with a in the listings). And we acknowledge, too, the many newcomers to the event. Taken together, the restaurants participating in this 10th anniversary Restaurant Week just underscore what The New York Times declared at our inaugural event: “Restaurants north of Manhattan just keep getting better and better.”

P R ES E N T I N G S P O N S O R

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&D isco v e r.

March 7-20

$20.95 LUNCH

$29.95 DINNER

Reserve now at over 200 restaurants! HudsonValleyRestaurantWeek.com

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THE VALLE Y TABLE’S HUDSON VALLE Y RESTAUR ANT WEEK

PARTICIPATING RESTAURANTS AS OF PRESS TIME

KEY: L LUNCH $20.95 D DINNER $29.95 T CONVENIENT TO METRO-NORTH X EXCLUSIONS APPLY

8 NORTH BROADWAY L D X 8 N Broadway, Nyack (845) 353-1200; 8northbroadway.com This Mediterranean restaurant offers a changing menu “inspired by local farms and neighborhood friends.”

808 BISTRO L D T 808 Scarsdale Ave, Scarsdale (914) 722-0808; the808bistro.com This “neighborhood restaurant with a downtown feel” serves chicken, fish, shrimp and veal with a light Italian touch.

AQUATERRA GRILLE L D X 420 N Middletown Rd, Pearl River (845) 920-1340; aquaterragrille.com This casual family eatery boasts an extensive menu of Modern American fare from the sea (Aqua) and land (Terra).

76 HOUSE L D X 110 Main St, Tappan (845) 359-5476; 76house.com “America’s oldest tavern,” built in 1686, features the cuisine of celebrated chef Doug Mulholland and live entertainment.

A TAVOLA TRATTORIA D 46 Main St, New Paltz (845) 255-1426; atavolany.com A simple Italian trattoria, A Tavola focuses on fresh, local produce and ingredients in a rustic, family-style atmosphere.

AROMA OSTERIA D X 114 Old Post Rd, Wappingers Falls (845) 298-6790; aromaosteriarestaurant.com Classic rustic Italian with an emphasis on Southern Italy. Romantic and relaxed atmosphere with an elegant cocktail bar.

105-TEN BAR & GRILL L D X 127 Woodside Ave, Briarcliff Manor (914) 236-3651; 105ten.com A modern New American menu featuring craft brews and local wine; a hometown eatery with modern, rustic decor.

AL FRESCO L D X 1036 Main St, Fishkill (845) 896-3600; alfrescoristorante.com Authentic Italian cuisine using fresh meat, seafood and produce from local farmers, in a historic building in the heart of Fishkill.

THE ARTIST’S PALATE D T 307 Main St, Poughkeepsie (845) 483-8074; theartistspalate.biz Cosmopolitan elegance meets edgy industry style. Contemporary American food with an extensive variety of unique wines and spirits.

121 RESTAURANT L D X 2 Dingle Ridge Rd, North Salem (914) 669-0121; 121restaurant.com This popular gathering spot embraces comfort foods, with freshness and simplicity in a farmhouse setting.

ALAIN’S FRENCH BISTRO L D X 9 Ingalls St, Nyack (845) 535-3315; alainbistro.com Alain Eigenmann creates a winning combination of great food and charming ambiance. It’s quintessential French and delicious.

AUGIE’S PRIME CUT D 3436 Lexington Ave, Mohegan Lake (914) 743-1357; augiesprimecut.com A staple in the local community, favorites at this top-notch steak and seafood house include prime rib, porterhouse steak and fresh lobster.

251 LEX D T X 251 Lexington Ave, Mount Kisco (914) 218-8156 A newcomer to the neighborhood from the owner of 8 North Broadway. The 100-seat restaurant serves authentic Mediterranean cuisine.

AMERICAN BOUNTY RESTAURANT L D 1946 Campus Dr, Hyde Park (845) 451-1011; americanbountyrestaurant.com Contemporary and traditional dishes with a local, seasonal focus are served at this world-class Culinary Institute of America eatery. First-class American wine list and comfortable warm service.

AUSTIN’S L D 5 Roundhouse Rd, Piermont (845) 398-1943; experienceaustins.com A New American menu featuring classic dishes like buttermilk fried chicken and chicken pot pie. Enjoy river views and outdoor seating in season.

AMICI’S L D T 35 Main St, Poughkeepsie (845) 452-4700; amicis-restaurant.com CIA trained chef, Joel Trocino, brings Italian American cuisine to the waterfront district of Poughkeepsie.

AUSTIN’S L D 190 S Main St, New City (845) 499-2294

273 KITCHEN D T X 273 Halstead Ave, Harrison (914) 732-3333; 273kitchen.com The 30-seat Mediterranean bistro offers a seafoodladen menu, including raw, cured and ceviche dishes, meat-based dishes and small bites.

HOW IT WORKS

A LOOK AT WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW FOR SPRING 2016 HVRW

Participating restaurants offer a three-course, prixfixe dinner menu for $29.95 per person and may offer a three-course lunch menu for $20.95 per person (neither price includes tax, beverage and gratuity). Contact the restaurant to make your reservation. Check with each restaurant if you have questions about hours, possible exclusions, ingredients and any other details applicable to the specific restaurant. Please keep in mind, the restaurant staff is working extra hard during HVRW. Please tip well! Information and updates: HudsonValleyRestaurantWeek.com

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BAJA 328 TEQUILA BAR L D T X 328 Main St, Beacon (845) 838-2252; baja328.com A new Beacon hot spot offering over 110 tequilas to accompany authentic Southwestern cuisine. THE BARN AT BEDFORD POST INN L 954 Old Post Rd, Bedford (914) 234-6386; bedfordpostinn.com A less-formal dining option, from the team of chef Michael White, serving Italian-influenced seasonal cuisine. House-made pastas are a specialty. BEEHIVE RESTAURANT L D X 30 Old Rt 22, Armonk (914) 765-0688; beehive-restaurant.com Designed by a family that loves to cook, this family-friendly restaurant serves Continental and American classics in the heart of Armonk. BENJAMIN STEAKHOUSE D X 610 W Hartsdale Ave, White Plains (914) 428-6868; benjaminsteakhouse.com A handsome setting with central fireplace for serious steak created by an alumnus of the venerable Peter Luger restaurant.

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BILLY JOE’S RIBWORKS L D 26 Front St, Newburgh (845) 565-1560; ribworks.com Mouthwatering ribs, spectacular views of the Hudson River, outdoor dining and live entertainment at the Newburgh waterfront.

CENA 2000 L D 50 Front St, Newburgh (845) 561-7676; cena2000.com Cena 2000 juxtaposes an upscale Mediterranean menu and a serious wine list with Hudson River views on the Newburgh waterfront.

BIRDSALL HOUSE L D 970 Main St, Peekskill (914) 930-1880; birdsallhouse.net New American cuisine with a twist in a craft beer gastropub with menus that proudly bring together the extraordinary local farming resources and seasonal foods of New York state.

CHAR L D T X 2 S Water St, Greenwich (203) 900-1100; charct.com Sister restaurant to Dolphin, this upscale casual restaurant presents contemporary American cuisine in a setting to match.

BISTRO ROLLIN L D 142 Fifth Ave, Pelham (914) 633-0780; bistrorollin.com Known for its authentic French comfort food that harkens back to an earlier era and reminds diners of the simple pleasure derived from honest food. BISTRO Z L D 455 S Broadway, Tarrytown (914) 524-6410; bistroz.com Conveniently located in the DoubleTree Hotel, offering casual comfort, fireside dining and an American menu blending fresh ingredients with an imaginative presentation. BLU POINTE L D 120 Front St, Newburgh (845) 568-0100; blu-pointe.com Set right on the Hudson River; featuring a farmto-table menu of fresh seafood and prime beef. BLUESTONE BISTRO L D 10 IBM Rd, Suites A & B, Poughkeepsie (845) 462-1100; bluestonebistrony.com A casual, friendly atmosphere with a diverse menu featuring local ingredients used to create the freshest seasonal fare. THE BOCUSE RESTAURANT L D 1946 Campus Dr, Hyde Park (845) 471-6608; bocuserestaurant.com This Culinary Institute of America restaurant re-imagines classic French cuisine using modern techniques with a new style of casual yet sophisticated service. BONEFISH GRILL D 2142 Fashion Dr, Nanuet (845) 624-3760; bonefishgrill.com Innovative seafood made with fresh, highquality ingredients. Featuring favorites from land and sea including ahi tuna and rib-eye steak. BONEFISH GRILL D 2185 South Rd, Suite B, Poughkeepsie (845) 432-7507; bonefishgrill.com BRASSERIE 292 D T 292 Main St, Poughkeepsie (845) 473-0292; brasserie292.com Serving classic brasserie fare: duck confit, steak frites and cassoulet. Transports diners to the heart of Paris, right down to the look of the menu. BROADWAY BISTRO L D X 3 S Broadway, Nyack (845) 353-8361; 3broadwaybistro.com Authentic Tuscan cuisine with dishes ranging from terrine of eggplant to cavatelli, broccoli rabe pesto and sweet Italian sausage.

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CHAR STEAKHOUSE & BAR D 151 Bryant Pond Rd, Mahopac (845) 526-1200; charsteakhouseandbar.com Casual dining with a classic steakhouse feel. The menu centers on dry-aged steaks and fresh seafood but offers options for every taste.

Bistro Rollin CAFÉ AMARCORD D T X 276 Main St, Beacon (845) 440-0050; cafeamarcord.com Fine, affordable dining in the heart of Beacon. Warm and comfortable décor, serving an innovative menu of fresh pastas, fish and grilled entrées. CAFÉ OF LOVE L D T 38 E Main St, Mt. Kisco (914) 242-1002; cafeofloveny.com New American fare taking local ingredients on a global adventure. #localtastesbetter CAMPAGNA AT BEDFORD POST INN D 954 Old Post Rd, Bedford (914) 234-7800; bedfordpostinn.com Serving Italian cuisine reflecting the warm charm of the Inn at Bedford Post, the menu highlights a variety of seasonal and local ingredients. CANTERBURY BROOK INN D X 331 Main St, Cornwall (845) 534-9658; canterburybrookinn.com An intimate creek-side restaurant conjures a cabin in the Alps while serving up authentic Swiss dishes and continental cuisine. CARLO’S TRATTORIA L D 1520 Rt 55, LaGrangeville (845) 447-1600; carlostrattoriaon55.com A family-run restaurant where you are treated like an old friend. Offers both traditional and modern Mediterranean food, good value and a fantastic atmosphere. CATHRYN’S TUSCAN GRILL L D T 91 Main St, Cold Spring (845) 265-5582; tuscangrill.com Romantic and whimsical, this Italian menu leans toward the north. The wine list is extensive, and the welcome is warm. CEDAR STREET GRILL L D T X 23 Cedar St, Dobbs Ferry (914) 674-0706; cedarstreetgrillny.com A fine selection of American-themed fare and artisanal beers. Cozy and welcoming with food made with simple, honest ingredients. CELLAR 49 L D X 49 East Sunnyside Ln, Tarrytown (914) 591-8200; tarrytownhouseestate.com Fine “tavern food” in the cellar of the Biddle Mansion of Tarrytown House Estate. Offers a casual, energetic atmosphere and wine cellar. #HVRW

CHAT 19 L D T 19 Chatsworth Ave, Larchmont (914) 833-8871; chat19.net A casual, relaxed atmosphere to enjoy owner Mario Fava’s selection of grilled food, seafood, appetizers and salads. CHAT AMERICAN GRILL L D T 1 Christie Pl, Scarsdale (914) 722-4000; chatamericangrill.com Enjoy a meal by the fireplace, or watch the game on one of three flat-screen TVs at this allAmerican grill, sister to Chat 19. CHATEAU BEACON D X 37 Lamplight St, Beacon (845) 765-8874; chateaubeacon.com This Hudson Valley newcomer serves up fine Mediterranean cuisine with a twist and an energetic nightlife atmosphere. CHEF ANTONIO RESTAURANT D T 551 Halstead Ave, Mamaroneck (914) 698-8610; chefantoniorestaurant.com Southern Italian cuisine is the star with dishes like Gnocchi Bolognese and Veal Pizzaiola served in a relaxed, casual atmosphere. CHOPHOUSE GRILLE D X 957 Rt 6, Mahopac (845) 628-8300; thechophousegrille.com Hand-picked, aged steaks and fresh seafood offerings. A comfortable bar/lounge offers a selection of craft beers and specialty cocktails. CITY LIMITS DINER L D T X 200 Central Ave, White Plains (914) 686-9000; citylimitsdiner.com Redefining the American diner with a menu of comforting, sophisticated dishes ranging from house-smoked meats to gourmet pastry. CLOCK TOWER GRILL L D X 512 Clock Tower Dr, Brewster (845) 582-0574; clocktowergrill.com In a renovated barn setting, the atmosphere is casual yet sophisticated. A farm-to-table menu features rustic American cuisine, including prime burgers, lobster mac and cheese, and osso buco. COMMUNAL KITCHEN D X 162 Main St, Nyack (845) 535-3133; communalkitchennyack.com Drawing inspiration from local, organic products, chef and owner, Jed Gidaly, serves globally inspired cuisine accompanied by handcrafted cocktails, small production wines and local craft beers. march

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CONFETTI RISTORANTE & VINOTECA L D X 200 Ash St, Piermont (845) 365-1911; confettiofpiermont.com Authentic Italian cuisine: handmade pasta, imported Mediterranean fish and views of the Hudson River and Tappan Zee Bridge.

ELEVEN 11 GRILLE & SPIRITS D 1111 Main St, Fishkill (845) 896-0011; eleven11grille.com A homey tavern with exposed beams and bricks and vintage plank flooring serving comfort food, pub favorites, pasta, steaks and daily specials.

THE COOKERY D T 39 Chestnut St, Dobbs Ferry (914) 305-2336; thecookeryrestaurant.com Neighborhood eatery serves a neo-nostalgic menu, capturing the warmth of Italian comfort food while using sustainable products.

ELM STREET OYSTER HOUSE L D 11 West Elm St, Greenwich (203) 629-5795; elmstreetosyterhouse.com Located in the heart of downtown Greenwich, a lively atmosphere with tasty seafood cuisine. EMILIO RISTORANTE L D T X 1 Colonial Pl, Harrison (914) 835-3100; emilioristorante.com Set in a century-old colonial home with rambling dining rooms, featuring house-made pastas and a seasonal regional Italian menu.

COOPER’S MILL D 670 White Plains Rd, Tarrytown (914) 333-1216; coopersmillrestaurant.com From signature flatbreads to fresh vegetable dishes, and entrees featuring meat and seafood from local purveyors. CORTLANDT COLONIAL MANOR D 714 Old Albany Post Rd, Cortlandt Manor (914) 739-3900; cortlandtcolonial.com Reminiscent of a private country estate, the menu offers a wide range of American favorites, from seafood to beef. COSIMO’S BRICK OVEN L D 100 County Rt 32, Central Valley (845) 928-8265; cosimoswoodbury.com Casual and contemporary Italian cuisine with some of the world’s best wines. Warm, friendly and sophisticated atmosphere in four uniquely designed locations. COSIMO’S BRICK OVEN L D 620 Rt 211 E, Middletown (845) 692-3242; cosimosmiddletown.com COSIMO’S ON UNION L D 1217 Rt 300 (Union Ave) Newburgh (845) 567-1556; cosimosunion.com COSIMO’S TRATTORIA L D 120 Delafield St, Poughkeepsie (845) 485-7172; cosimospoughkeepsie.com CRABTREE’S KITTLE HOUSE L D X 11 Kittle Rd, Chappaqua (914) 666-8044; kittlehouse.com Stately country setting, rooted in the warm tradition of the Hudson Valley, offering a Modern American menu and one of the world’s finest wine lists. CRAVE RESTAURANT & LOUNGE D T 129 Washington St, Poughkeepsie (845) 452-3501; craverestaurantandlounge.com Known for its contemporary American cuisine, new-urban setting, attentive service and warmth. Located just under the Walkway Over the Hudson. DA NINA ITALIAN RESTAURANT L D T 1 Lafayette Ave, Suffern (845) 357-5988; daninas.com Offering age-old tradition and timeless recipes that have been passed down through generations. Quiet and elegant. DAN ROONEY’S CAFÉ & BAR L D T X 810 Yonkers Ave, Yonkers (914) 457-2531; danrooneyscafeandbar.com With the atmosphere and flavors of a traditional Irish pub, enjoy great food, beer and Irish whiskey. In the Empire City Casino in Yonkers.

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Da Nina DELFINO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT L D X 60 Halstead Ave, Harrison (914) 835-2535; dineatdelfinosny.com Italian cuisine in a laid-back atmosphere with an extensive selection of fine wines. DESTINATION BISTRO L D 2013 Crompond Rd, Yorktown Heights (914) 245-0500; destinationbistro.com New American cuisine in a cozy space, serving colossal crabcakes with Manchego polenta and award-winning chipotle barbecued pork. DINO’S VIGNETO CAFE L D 80 Vineyard Ave, Highland (845) 834-2828; vignetocafe.com Stop in for freshly homemade pasta among other Italian dishes and lunch specials. DISH BISTRO & WINE BAR L D X 947 S Lake Blvd, Mahopac (845) 621-3474; dishmahopac.com Chef Peter A. Milano adds his own flair to both classic and modern cuisine, with dishes focused on local seasonal produce. DOLPHIN L D T 1 Van Der Donck St, Yonkers (914) 751-8170; dolphinrbl.com Located on the banks of the Hudson River and decorated in dramatic, modern fashion, Dolphin’s menu draws liberally and fittingly from the sea. DOUBLE O GRILL L D X 1536 Rt 9, Wappingers Falls (845) 297-2233; doubleogrill.com A global menu featuring bar food favorites and a variety of appetizing entrees, plus wine and cocktails in a modern space. EASTCHESTER FISH GOURMET L D 837 White Plains Rd, Scarsdale (914) 725-3450; eastchesterfish.com Popular cosmopolitan restaurant and fish market provides a bounty of highly praised seafood and delicious house-made pastas. EL SOLAR CAFÉ L D X 346 Broadway, Newburgh (845) 561-3498; facebook.com/ElSolarCafe This charming spot on Broadway in Newburgh offers eclectic Latin and Mediterranean cuisine, gracious hospitality in a warm, welcoming setting.

ENZO’S RESTAURANT L D T 451 Mamaroneck Ave, Mamaroneck (914) 698-2911; enzorestaurant.com Chef Luciano Savone’s menu includes dishes with layers of flavor served in generous portions to accompany a vintage wine selection. FIG & OLIVE L D T X 696 White Plain Rd, Scarsdale (914) 725-2900; figandolive.com The impossibly chic environs of Manhattan’s meatpacking district is transported to suburban Scarsdale, with an invigorated Mediterranean menu. FINO RESTAURANT D 1 Baltic Pl, Croton-on-Hudson (914) 271-2600; finowestchester.com After 25 years in Midtown Manhattan, Paul Vuli brings his authentic Northern Italian cuisine north in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. FRANKIE & AUGIE’Z L D 3673 Hill Blvd, Jefferson Valley (914) 245-9241; frankandaugiez.com Family owned and operated, serving up “the best pizza in town” as well as a wide array of Italian dishes. FRANKIE & JOHNNIE’S STEAKHOUSE L D T X 77 Purchase St, Rye (914) 925-3900; frankieandjohnnies.com Distinguished reputation for the finest steaks, chops and seafood, the menu is classic steakhouse fare. Stylish, sophisticated ambiance. FUSION L D X 46 Millpond Pk, Monroe (845) 395-0208; fusionmonroe.com The menu incorporates fresh, local ingredients from local purveyors to create a diverse menu with daily hand-picked features. GAUCHO GRILL L D T X 1 N Broadway, White Plains (914) 437-9966; gauchogrillnewyork.com A one-of-a-kind Argentinean steakhouse with traditional Italian cuisine, international wines and liquors and impeccable service. GIULIO’S RESTAURANT D 154 Washington St, Tappan (845) 359-3657; giulios.biz A romantic setting complete with fireplaces and candlelight; serves Italian-inspired continental cuisine with extensive gluten-free options.

KEY: l LUNCH $20.95 d DINNER $29.95 t CONVENIENT TO METRO-NORTH x EXCLUSIONS APPLY

MARCH 7–20, 2016

HUDSONVALLEYRESTAURANTWEEK.COM

#HVRW

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GRAZIELLA’S L D T X 99 Church St, White Plains (914) 761-5721; graziellasrestaurant.com Pasta, chicken, lamb, veal, steaks and seafood prepared with an Italian flair and served in a dramatically modern dining room.

HENRY’S AT THE FARM L D 220 North Rd, Milton (845) 795-1310; henrysatbuttermilk.com A dining destination at the Buttermilk Falls Inn, Henry’s sources locally and from its own, 40-acre farm. Elegant cuisine in a charming setting.

GUADALAJARA MEXICAN RESTAURANT L D X 2 Union St, Briarcliff Manor (914) 944-4380; guadalajaramexny.com Come for authentic Mexican cuisine and great guacamole. Cocktail menu goes beyond margaritas and sangria.

HUDSON HOUSE OF NYACK D X 134 Main St, Nyack (845) 353-1355; hudsonhousenyack.com An antique village hall/jailhouse turned restaurant and bar sets the stage for enjoying refined American cuisine and delicious desserts.

HALF MOON L D T X 1 High St, Dobbs Ferry (914) 693-4130; halfmoonhudson.com Casual American restaurant with panoramic views as far as Manhattan. Favorites include fresh Montauk seafood and burgers with creative flair.

HUDSON HOUSE RIVER INN L D T X 2 Main St, Cold Spring (845) 265-9355; hudsonhouseinn.com An historic 1832 landmark serving dry-aged, hand-cut steaks and market-fresh fish on the riverfront.

IBIZA TAPAS D 93 Mill Plain Rd, Danbury (203) 616-5731; facebook.com/ IbizaTapasDanbury Blending traditional and contemporary flavors, Ibiza offers authentic Spanish tapas that tease the eye and the tongue, using locally farmed ingredients. IL BARILOTTO D X 1113 Main St, Fishkill (845) 897-4300; ilbarilottorestaurant.com Italian trattoria and wine bar serving an innovative menu with influences from France and Spain, in a warm, upbeat setting. IL CASTELLO L D T X 576 Mamaroneck Ave, Mamaroneck (914) 777-2200; ilcastellomenu.com Old World Italian charm, Il Castello specializes in handmade pastas and table side presentation. Serving large portions that “make Mama proud.”

HARPER'S BAR AND RESTAURANT D T X 92 Main St, Dobbs Ferry (914) 693-2306; harpersonmain.com A hip neighborhood tavern serving American food with an extensive wine list. Simple, home cooking using local, seasonal ingredients.

HUDSON’S RIBS AND FISH D 1099 Rt 9, Fishkill (845) 297-5002; hudsonsribsandfish.com Popular steakhouse specializing in hand-cut, aged choice meats, fresh seafood and trademark homemade popovers with strawberry butter.

HARVEST-ON-HUDSON L D T X 1 River St, Hastings-on-Hudson (914) 478-2800; harvesthudson.com Overlooking the Hudson River and Palisades, a magnificent Tuscan farmhouse is the perfect setting for inspired Mediterranean cuisine.

THE HUDSON ROOM L D T 23 S Division St, Peekskill (914) 788-3663; hudsonroom.com Dedicated to Hudson Valley sources, serving fresh, fusion cuisine including dishes like grilled sliced bavette steak, seared organic vegetable stir-fry and a wide variety of sushi.

KEY: l LUNCH $20.95 d DINNER $29.95 t CONVENIENT TO METRO-NORTH x EXCLUSIONS APPLY

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IL CENACOLO L D X 228 S Plank Rd, Newburgh (845) 564-4494; ilcenacolorestaurant.com Bringing the tastes of northern Italy to the Hudson Valley since 1988; celebrating the simplicity of classic Tuscan cuisine. IL FRESCO L D X 15 Kings Highway, Orangeburg (845) 398-0200; il-fresco.com Serving up classic Italian family recipes in a 300-year-old farmhouse to accompany an extensive wine list.

MARCH 7–20, 2016

IL LAGHETTO L D X 825 S Lake Blvd, Mahopac (845) 621-5200; illaghettorestaurant.com Formerly The Terrace Club, featuring year-round lakeside dining and traditional Italian cuisine.

LA CASA VICINA L D X 1015 Little Britain Rd, New Windsor (845) 567-1890; lacasavicina.com Fine classic Italian dining, featuring twists on such favorites as spinach tagliatelle and saffron risotto.

IL SORRISO L D T X 5 N Buckhout St, Irvington (914) 591-2525; ilsorriso.com Warm and inviting, popular Italian restaurant situated on a steep hill overlooking the Hudson. A unique wine cellar for private parties. INN AT POUND RIDGE L 258 Westchester Ave, Pound Ridge (914) 764-1400; innatpoundridge.com Chef Jean-Georges brings casual elegance to Pound Ridge with a seasonal, farm-to-table menu and a contemporary country atmosphere. IRON HORSE GRILL L D X 20 Wheeler Ave, Pleasantville (914) 741-0717; ironhorsepleasantville.com Contemporary American cuisine in an intimate setting, with dishes such as organic chicken scarpariello and molasses-glazed duck breast. JOSEPH’S STEAKHOUSE L D 728 Violet Ave (Rt 9G), Hyde Park (845) 473-2333; josephs-steakhouse.com Quality Angus beef selections served with generous sides like garlic mashed potatoes and wild rice. Vintage images of the Sinatra era.

HUDSONVALLEYRESTAURANTWEEK.COM

LA CREMAILLERE RESTAURANT L D X 46 Bedford-Banksville Rd, Bedford (914) 234-9647; cremaillere.com A charming French country restaurant nestled in 1750’s white clapboard farmhouse offering classic French cuisine. LA LANTERNA L D 23 Grey Oaks Ave, Yonkers (914) 476-3060; lalanterna.com Executive chef Valterio Tarone offers a unique Italian-Swiss menu served in an elegant yet cozy atmosphere.

Benjamin Steakhouse KITCHEN SINK FOOD & DRINK D T X 157 Main St, Beacon (845) 765-0240; kitchensinkny.com Beacon’s new culinary gem features an eclectic mix of global and family-influenced dishes with local ingredients and modern technique. L’INIZIO D X 698 Saw Mill River Rd, Ardsley (914) 693-5400; liniziony.com Award-winning chefs Scott and Heather Fratangelo bring their inventive, Italian-inspired, locally sourced cuisine and hospitality to Ardsley.

#HVRW

LA PANETIÈRE L D X 530 Milton Rd, Rye (914) 967-8140; lapanetiere.com True to its name, La Panetière boasts fresh baked breads and pastries. Southern French cuisine is complemented by an exceptional wine cellar. LA RISERVA L D X 2382 Boston Post Rd, Larchmont (914) 834-5584; lariserva.com Family-owned and run, La Riserva offers traditional Italian dishes accompanied by warm, attentive service.

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LAGO RISTORANTE & WINE BAR L D 97 Lake St W, Harrison (914) 358-9180; lagoristorante.com Lago offers cuisine from Italy’s historic Campania region. Experience a taste of Napoli accompanied by fine Italian wine.

LENNY’S SEAFOOD & STEAKHOUSE L D T X 2047 Boston Post Rd, Larchmont (914) 630-7800; lennyssteakhouse.com From Lenny Balidemaj (Il Castello), a popular seafood & steakhouse with Italian flavors and hospitality.

LAKEVIEW HOUSE RESTAURANT L D X 343 Lakeside Rd, Newburgh (845) 566-7100; thelakeviewhouse.com Enjoy views of Orange Lake while browsing a menu of classic favorites, modern fare and daily specials. Excellent service and cozy atmosphere.

LEXINGTON SQUARE CAFE L D T 510 Lexington Ave, Mount Kisco (914) 244-3663; lexingtonsquarecafe.com A unique combination of spacious dining with an intimate feeling. Offers an eclectic menu of American fusion cuisine and lively bar.

LE BOUCHON L D 76 Main St, Cold Spring (845) 265-7676 Serving dishes including cassoulet, diners can enjoy French classics in a cozy, red-hued room or garden setting.

Aroma Osteria

LE EXPRESS BISTRO & BAR L D X 1820 New Hackensack Rd, Wappingers Falls (845) 849-3565; lexpresshv.com A strip mall transformed into a warm contemporary bistro offering ingredient-driven, French-American bistro fare.

LE PROVENÇAL BISTRO L D T X 436 Mamaroneck Ave, Mamaroneck (914) 777-2324; provencalbistro.com Mediterranean-French bistro food with a flair that lives up to French tradition, served in a charming, tastefully decorated dining room.

LE FONTANE L D X 137 Somers Town Rd, Katonah (914) 232-9619; lefontane.net Authentic Southern Italian cuisine and hospitality headed by talented Neapolitan chef.

LE SIRENE RISTORANTE L T X 1957 Palmer Ave, Larchmont (914) 834-8300; lesireneristorante.com Cosimo Bruno opened Le Sirene in 2014. Offering authentic Italian cuisine, the menu combines old world flavor with family tradition.

LIMONCELLO AT ORANGE INN L D 159–167 Main St, Goshen (845) 294-1880; limoncelloatorangeinn.com The historic Orange Inn gets a new turn, updated and refreshed; offering a northern Italian menu with an international twist. LITTLE MEXICAN CAFE L T 581 Main St, New Rochelle (914) 636-3926; littlemexicancafe.com Authentic Mexican cuisine served in a cheerful dining room, their signature margaritas balancing the spicy fare. LUSARDI’S RESTAURANT L D T X 1885 Palmer Ave, Larchmont (914) 834-5555; lusardislarchmont.com A favorite neighborhood eatery with a reputation for flavorful Mediterranean dishes in a warm, friendly atmosphere.

Luxury Resorts, B&Bs, Lodges, Inns and Campgrounds, Shopping, Golfing, Rock Climbing, Hiking, Skiing, Snow Shoeing, Apple Picking, Wine Tasting and more... you’ll see it all in Ulster County, NY.

… a 4-season playground. Hudson Valley/Catskill Regions

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KEY: l LUNCH $20.95 d DINNER $29.95 t CONVENIENT TO METRO-NORTH x EXCLUSIONS APPLY

MARCH 7–20, 2016

MADISON KITCHEN D T 7 Madison Ave, Larchmont (914) 732-3024; mklarchmont.com Seasonally inspired cocktails and craft beer complement Chef Di Bona’s assortment of small plates, charcuterie boards and entrées.

MERITAGE RESTAURANT D T X 1505 Weaver St, Scarsdale (914) 472-8484; meritagerestaurant.net Chef Chris Vergara brings a New American menu sourced from local purveyors to diners in a warm, comfortable neighborhood restaurant.

MODERN SLICE L D T X 57 Kensico Rd, Thornwood (914) 495-3986; modernslice.pizza With over 30 years of experience, chefs David Surace and Joe Fallone, are bringing Westchester traditional Italian meals with a modern twist.

MARCELLO’S OF SUFFERN L D T X 21 Lafayette Ave, Suffern (845) 357-9108; marcellosgroup.com A classic Italian and Hudson Valley favorite, serving traditional and contemporary Italian fare.

THE MILL L D T 46 Vassar Rd, Poughkeepsie (845) 485-9768 millpk.com Casual and upbeat atmosphere coupled with knowledgeable staff, cozy indoor and outdoor dining and fresh, seasonal, local artisanal foods.

MODERNE BARN L D X 430 Bedford Rd, Armonk (914) 730-0001; modernebarn.com From the Livanos family, an urban-countrychic restaurant that is casual but sophisticated. American menu with global influences.

MILL HOUSE BREWING COMPANY L D T 289 Mill St, Poughkeepsie (845) 485-2739; millhousebrewing.com A spacious upscale gastropub serving innovative locally sourced dishes. A wide selection of ales (brewed on site) and cocktails.

MONTE’S LOCAL KITCHEN & TAP ROOM D X 3330 Rt 343, Amenia (845) 789-1818; monteskitchen.com Chef Dafna Mizrahi takes locally sourced ingredients and artfully prepares New American dishes like Taconic Bourbon Glazed Duck.

MIMA VINOTECA L D T X 63 Main St, Irvington (914) 591-1300; mimasrestaurant.com Charming, simply decorated neighborhood restaurant and wine bar serving rustic fare.

MORGAN’S FISH HOUSE L D T 22 Elm Pond Pl, Rye (914) 921-8190; morgansfishhouse.net Casual, upscale restaurant in a contemporary space that is warm and sophisticated. Fresh seafood along with steaks and chicken dishes.

MASSA COASTAL L D T X 599 E Boston Post Rd, Mamaroneck (914) 732-3535; massacoastal.com An ocean-to-table menu influenced by the Puglia region of Italy, prepared in the classic tradition and served in an intimate, relaxed atmosphere. MEDITERRANEO D T 75 Cooley St, Pleasantville (914) 773-1020; mediterraneony.com Set in a Mediterranean villa-esque atmosphere and serving Italian dishes to diners at sidewalk tables on a quaint Pleasantville street. MELTING POT L D T 30 Mamaroneck Ave, White Plains (914) 993-6358; meltingpot.com/white-plains Fun and interactive dining experience featuring a menu of signature fondue dinners.

HUDSONVALLEYRESTAURANTWEEK.COM

MIX COCKTAIL BAR & KITCHEN D T 66 Hale Ave, White Plains (914) 760-5217; cpwestchester.com In the lobby of the downtown White Plains Crowne Plaza. Offers cocktails by experienced mixologists and plates from steaks to burgers.

#HVRW

MORTON’S STEAKHOUSE D X 9 Maple Ave, White Plains (914) 683-6101; mortons.com/whiteplains It’s all about aged, prime beef, served in elegance. The menu offers seafood, chicken, chops and gluten-sensitive options. A popular nightspot.

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MOSCATO RESTAURANT L D T X 874 Scarsdale Ave, Scarsdale (914) 723-5700; moscatorestaurant.com Named for the sweet, floral grape of the muscat family, sweet service and Mediterranean fare can be enjoyed in the casual dining room.

NINA L D X 27 W Main St, Middletown (845) 344-6800; nina-restaurant.com Charm and ambiance located in a vintage 1800s storefront. International cuisine, a relaxed atmosphere and hip late-night vibe.

PANGEA L D 1946 Campus Dr, Hyde Park (845) 471-6608; ciarestaurantgroup.com/pangea Brought back by The Culinary Institute of America, Pangea offers continental cuisine with a set tasting menu of five courses with ten set dishes.

MOUNT IVY CAFE D 14 Thiells Mount Ivy Rd, Pomona (845) 354-4746; mtivycafe.com Known for generous portions of continental cuisine including tender steaks and fresh seafood, Rockland’s fine dining destination.

NONNO’S L D T 810 Yonkers Ave, Yonkers (914) 457-2457; empirecitycasino.com/nonnos Classic Italian cuisine in a friendly atmosphere with traditional favorites like chicken marsala and penne alla vodka.

MOUNTAINSIDE D 211 Mail Rd, Barryville (845) 456-0195; catskillmountainresort.com New American comfort cuisine at Catskill Mountain Resort serving unique dessert creations with fine wine and spirits.

NORTH STREET TAVERN & WOOD FIRE PIZZA L D X 1128 North St, White Plains (914) 437-7111; northstreettavern.com Enjoy live entertainment with while tasting from a tavern menu offering dishes from famous wood-fired pizza to Rib Eye.

THE PARLOR L D T 14 Cedar St, Dobbs Ferry (914) 478-8200; theparlordf.com David DiBari, of The Cookery, brings his expertise to a new venue. The Parlor serves small plates and wood-fired pizza in a relaxed, industrial setting. PERCH L D X 1 King St, Marlboro (845) 236-3663; perchmarlboro.com New from the owner of Cathryn’s Tuscan Grill in Cold Spring, offering a globally inspired, locally sourced menu. An eclectic list of wine and beer.

MP TAVERNA L D T X 1 Bridge St, Irvington (914) 231-7854; michaelpsilakis.com A modern interpretation of a traditional Greek tavern by chef Michael Psilakis, awarded Food & Wine’s Best New Chef and Bon Appétit’s Chef of the Year.

O’MALLEY’S L D X 108 Main St, Nyack (845) 727-0574; omalleysofnyack.com From live events to a menu full of American and Irish pub favorites, O’Malley’s brings food and fun to Nyack.

MUGHAL PALACE L D T 16 Broadway, Valhalla (914) 997-6090; mughalpalace.com Serving up fine Indian cuisine in a romantic and comfortable dining space, outfitted with an extensive wine and cocktail list.

THE OLDE STONE MILL L D T X 2 Scarsdale Rd, Tuckahoe (914) 771-7661; theoldestonemill.com Traditional American steakhouse cuisine in a historic stone mill overlooking the banks of the Bronx River.

KEY: l LUNCH $20.95 d DINNER $29.95 t CONVENIENT TO METRO-NORTH x EXCLUSIONS APPLY

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PETER PRATT’S INN D X 673 Croton Rd, Yorktown (914) 962-4090; prattsinn.com Guests can enjoy regional American cuisine with dishes like venison-boar chili or char su duck spring rolls fireside or al fresco seasonally. PIER 701 RESTAURANT & BAR L D 701 Piermont Ave, Piermont (845) 848-2550; pier701ny.com Chef-owner Denis Whitton serves traditional French cuisine with Mediterranean influences at this waterfront locale in Piermont.

MARCH 7–20, 2016

PINE & OAK L D T 199 Main St, Ossining (914) 236-3393 Renamed from The Keenan House but still offering approachable American cuisine and an extensive beer list.

THE ROSE ROOM L D T X 222 E Main St, Mount Kisco (914) 218-3876; roseroomny.com Old-school cooking meets contemporary cuisine at this Mount Kisco establishment emphasizing customer service and stylish atmosphere.

PLATES L D T X 121 Myrtle Blvd, Larchmont (914) 834-1244; platesonthepark.com Chef-owner Matthew Karp’s artisanal culinary craft includes hand-rolled pasta, homemade sourdough breads, home-fermented vinegars and a repertoire of American classics.

ROSIE’S BISTRO ITALIANO L D T X 10 Palmer Ave, Bronxville (914) 793-2000; rosiesbronxville.com Vintage posters in a festive dining room with splashes of yellow and wood accents. The Italian menu steers keeps things fresh and seasonal.

POUGHKEEPSIE ICE HOUSE L D T 1 Main St, Poughkeepsie (845) 232-5783; poughkeepsieicehouse.com A historic Hudson Valley waterfront with Old World charm. Casually sophisticated cuisine with seasonal and locally inspired menus.

THE ROUNDHOUSE D T X 2 E Main St, Beacon (845) 765-8369; roundhousebeacon.com Offers a locally inspired seasonal menu, craft beers and creative artisanal cocktails. Floor-toceiling windows yield stunning waterfall views.

PRIMAVERA RESTAURANT AND BAR L D T 592 Rt 22, Croton Falls (914) 277-4580; primaverarestaurantandbar.com A friendly atmosphere and fine dining experience, Primavera maintains a small-town spirit that is warm, welcoming and inclusive. PROHIBITION RIVER D 82 Main St, Nyack (845) 727-7900; prohibtionriver.com “Where craft food meets craft drink,” offering the best the Hudson Valley has to offer with rotating seasonal menu and daily specials. PURDY’S FARMER AND THE FISH L T 100 Titicus Rd, North Salem (914) 617-8380; farmerandthefish.com When a fishmonger partners with a chef who studied agriculture, the result is a communityoriented restaurant with locally grown produce and high-quality seafood.

Aroma Osteria RESTAURANT NORTH L D X 386 Main St, Armonk (914) 273-8686; restaurantnorth.com Casual, sophisticated neighborhood restaurant known for its refined, farm-to-table New American fare, and fine wine and beer selection. RESTAURANT X & THE BULLY BOY BAR L D 117 N Rt 303, Congers (845) 268-6555; xaviars.com Peter Kelly’s elegant roadside restaurant features four dining rooms, a welcoming bar and a menu of classic dishes and modern American cuisine. RINI’S RESTAURANT & WINE BAR L D 12 W. Main St, Elmsford (914) 592-6799; rinisristorante.com Warm and friendly atmosphere. Classic Italian dishes including pork chops with sweet and hot peppers and eggplant parmigiana.

RABBIT & TURTLE L D 302 Main St, Poughkeepsie (845) 345-9964;rabbitandturtlepubrestaurant.com Offering a large selection of craft beers and spirits to accompany a menu of locally sourced dishes served in a relaxed, pub-style atmosphere.

RISOTTO D 788 Commerce St, Thornwood (914) 769-6000; risotto-restaurant.com Authentic Italian cuisine in a cozy neighborhood restaurant. Known for braised meats, homemade pastas and specialty soups; save room for dessert.

RAMIRO’S 954 L D X 954 Rt 6, Mahopac (845) 621-3333; ramiros954.com Nuevo Latino cuisine with a contemporary approach and creativity. Hospitality and warmth reign supreme.

RISTORANTE CATERINA DE’ MEDICI L D 1946 Campus Dr, Hyde Park (845) 471-6608; ristorantecaterinademedici.com Authentic regional Italian cuisine crafted at the Culinary Institute of America includes wood-fired pizza and other simple rustic dishes.

RANCHO GRANDE L D X 1789 Central Park Ave, Yonkers (914) 337-3056 ; ranchgrandemex.com Serving up authentic Mexican cuisine alongside margaritas and sangria from the bar.

RIVER CITY GRILLE L D T X 6 S Broadway, Irvington (914) 591-2033; rivercitygrille.com Eclectic American cuisine served in a vibrant bistro setting. Over a dozen wines by the glass and the bottle. Cocktails are both modern and classic.

RED HAT ON THE RIVER L D T X 1 Bridge St, Irvington (914) 591-5888; redhatontheriver.com A bustling, multilevel eatery, affording 180-degree views of the Hudson. French bistro classics mixed with seasonally changing dishes. RESTAURANT 1915 AND BLUE ROOF TAPAS BAR L D 3020 Seven Lakes Dr, Bear Mountain (845) 786-2731; visitbearmountain.com/dining Enjoy creative dishes firmly based on local and sustainably grown ingredients in at the historic Bear Mountain Inn.

HUDSONVALLEYRESTAURANTWEEK.COM

RIVERMARKET BAR & KITCHEN L D T X 127 W Main St, Tarrytown (914) 631-3100; rivermarketbarandkitchen.com This veritable epicurean hub across from the Metro-North train station features a farm-to-table restaurant, wood-fired pizzeria and wine shop. RIVERVIEW RESTAURANT L D T 45 Fair St, Cold Spring (845) 265-4778; riverdining.com Contemporary American cuisine in a casual, friendly setting, featuring spectacular views of the Hudson River and Storm King Mountain.

#HVRW

ROUTE 100 BAR & GRILL L D 2211 Central Park Ave, Yonkers (914) 779-2222; route100barandgrill.com A family-owned restaurant, new to the heart of Yonkers, offers eclectic continental cuisine served in generous portions. RUBY’S OYSTER BAR L D T 45 Purchase St, Rye (914) 921-4166; rubysoysterbar.com Chic, casual and classic oyster bar brasserie; features a varied menu with professional service and a lively atmosphere. RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE L D X 670 White Plains Rd, Tarrytown (914) 631-3311; ruthschris.com The classic steakhouse, complete with mahogany bar and lounge, offers aged-steaks and-fresh seafood. Located in the Westchester Marriott. RYE HOUSE L D T X 126 N Main St, Port Chester (914) 487-8771; ryehousepc.com A Port Chester newcomer offers an American menu filled with cuisine from the Southeast, Southwest, Heartland and Rust Belt. SALTAIRE OYSTER BAR & FISH HOUSE L D T X 55 Abendroth Ave, Port Chester (914) 939-2425; saltaireoysterbar.com A Westchester fish and oyster bar serving ten varieties of oysters and five signature sauces along side craft cocktails. SAINT GEORGE BISTRO D T X 155 Southside Ave, Hastings-on-Hudson (914) 478-1671; saintgeorgebistro.com This New French bistro offers reworked classics, local seafood, fine meats, seasonal vegetables and French wine. SAM’S OF GEDNEY WAY L D X 50 Gedney Way, White Plains (914) 949-0978; samsofgedneyway.com A modern American bistro with room for everyone offers a variety of atmospheres for any dining occasion. SAMMY’S DOWNTOWN BISTRO L D T X 124 Pondfield Rd, Bronxville (914) 337-3200; sammysbronxville.com A neighborhood favorite serving American and continental cuisine, with strong Italian influences in an inviting, modern setting.

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SAPORE STEAKHOUSE L D X 1108 Main St, Fishkill (845) 897-3300; saporesteakhouse.com Dry-aged beef cooked to your instructions in a spacious, comfortable, club setting.

SONORA RESTAURANT L D T 179 Rectory St, Port Chester (914) 933-0200; sonorarestaurant.net South American flavors with a French-Asian infusion, complemented by a great wine list, delightful cocktails and attentive service.

SAPORI ITAIAN RESTAURANT L D X 324 Central Ave, White Plains (914) 684-8855; saporiofwhiteplains.com Savory Italian dishes prepared with love and passion. Homemade pastas, fresh seafood and an extensive Italian and American wine list. SCALIA & CO CRAFT KITCHEN & BAR L D 785 ShopRite Plaza, State Rt 17M, Suite 2, Monroe (845) 395-0906; scaliaandco.com Chef Mark Glielmi’s open kitchen turns out classic Italian cuisine including homemade burrata, mozzarella and cannoli in a casual, upbeat setting.

SPICE KITCHEN L D T X 122-124 Mamaronek Ave, Mamaroneck (914) 873-0250; spicekitchen.com Offering authentic Indian cuisine with vegetarian, tandoori, seafood, chicken and meat dishes cooked using pure Indian spices and herbs.

Tarry Lodge

STONE MANOR AT 101 L D 101 Saw Mill River Rd, Hawthorne (914) 703-4112; thestonemanor101.com Fine Mediterranean steak house with a commitment to quality and gracious service. TAGINE RESTAURANT & WINE BAR D 120 Grand St, Croton-on-Hudson (914) 827-9393; taginecroton.com A unique bistro where French favorites, such as steak frites and salade niçoise, mixed with Moroccan classics.

SCARAMELLA’S L D X 1 Southfield Ave, Dobbs Ferry (914) 693-6024; scaramellas.com Northern and southern Italian cuisine, including dishes such as melanzane al parmigiana or linguine posillipo, with whole clams and mussels.

SHIP LANTERN INN D 1725 Rt 9W, Milton (845) 795-5400; shiplanterninn.com Since 1925, genuine hospitality and gracious service offer black-tie service, white tablecloths and fine cuisine for a relaxing experience.

SHADOWS ON THE HUDSON L D T 176 Rinaldi Blvd, Poughkeepsie (845) 486-9500; shadowsonthehudson.com On a 40-foot cliff overlooking the Hudson River, Shadows offers five dining rooms and a varied menu of steak and seafood.

SOFRITO L D T X 175 Main St, White Plains (914) 428-5500; sofritowhiteplains.com The aromatic mix of onions, garlic and tomato are the essence of authentic Puerto Rican cuisine in this colorful, contemporary dining scene.

KEY: l LUNCH $20.95 d DINNER $29.95 t CONVENIENT TO METRO-NORTH x EXCLUSIONS APPLY

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TAP HOUSE L D T 16 Depot Sq, Tuckahoe (914) 337-6941; thetaphouseny.com Upscale pub fare, 100 craft and premium imported beers, a neighborhood atmosphere, cozy fireplace and bar.

MARCH 7–20, 2016

TARRY LODGE L D T X 18 Mill St, Port Chester (914) 939-3111; tarrylodge.com A suburban outpost of New York’s BataliBastianich outfit famous for thin-crust pizza, housemade pasta and authentic Italian cooking.

TEXAS DE BRAZIL D 1 Ridge Hill Blvd, Yonkers (914) 652-9660; texasdebrazil.com An authentic Brazilian-American churrascaria (steakhouse) combines the cuisine of Southern Brazil with the spirit of Texas.

TRATTORIA LOCANDA L D 1105 Main St, Fishkill (845) 896-4100; locandarestaurant.com Known for its comfortable neighborhood charm, Trattoria Locanda serves fine southern Italian cuisine in a casual, brick-walled dining room.

TARRY TAVERN L D T X 27 Main St, Tarrytown (914) 631-7227; tarrytavern.com Showcasing the bounty of the Hudson Valley with Tavern and Market menus in a country farmhouse atmosphere.

THYME STEAK & SEAFOOD L D X 3605 Crompond Rd, Yorktown Heights (914) 788-8700; thymesteakandseafood.com American fare served with genuine, neighborly hospitality in a warm and inviting setting, with a dedicated focus on gluten-free offerings.

TAVERN AT DIAMOND MILLS L D X 25 S Partition St, Saugerties (845) 247-0700; diamondmillshotel.com A luxury boutique hotel, situated where the Esopus meets the Hudson, affords stunning waterfall views, fireside dining and gourmet cuisine .

TOSCANA RISTORANTE L D X 214 Main St, Eastchester (914) 361-1119; toscana-ristorante.com Chef Michele Lepore prepares a wide variety of classic Italian dishes, from medaglioni di pollo to bistecca di manzo.

TRATTORIA SAN GIORGIO L D 3279 Franklin Ave, Millbrook (845) 677-4566; trattoriasangiorgio.com Trattoria San Giorgio offers expertise in Italian American cuisine with dishes including freshly made pastas, cappuccinos and brick oven pizzas.

TERRA RUSTICA L D T 77 South Moger Ave, Mount Kisco (914) 666-7005; terrarusticaristorante.com Offering Italian favorites from Orecchiette Gaeta to Ossobuco Di Angello to the diners of Mount Kisco and the Hudson Valley.

TRADITIONS 118 L D T X 11 Old Tomahawk St, Somers (914) 248-7200; traditions118restaurant.com Traditional cuisine with classic Italian influences in an eclectic yet comfortable atmosphere. Extensive martini menu.

TERRAPIN RESTAURANT D X 6426 Montgomery St, Rhinebeck (845) 876-3330; terrapinrestaurant.com Italian, Asian and French influences and local products served in a creative interpretation of New American cuisine.

TRATTORIA 160 L D T X 160 Marble Ave, Pleasantville (914) 579-2126; trattoria160.net Family-friendly regional Italian cuisine in one of their many dining rooms, including their cozy dining area by the fireplace.

HUDSONVALLEYRESTAURANTWEEK.COM

#HVRW

TRATTORIA VIVOLO L D T X 301 Halstead Ave, Harrison (914) 835-6199; trattoriavivolo.com Chef and owner, Dean Vivolo, serves customers Italian fare in a renovated diner with 1950s counter seating. TREVI RISTORANTE L D 11 Taylor Sq, West Harrison (914) 949-5810; treviofharrison.com A trendy and sleek Italian restaurant featuring an extensive menu of modern Italian dishes from every region of Italy. TUTHILL HOUSE AT THE MILL L D 20 Grist Mill Ln, Gardiner (845) 255-4151; tuthillhouse.com Seasonal American and Italian dishes prepared with local ingredients in the restored, historical Grist Mill near Tuthilltown Distillery.

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THE VALLE Y TABLE’S HUDSON VALLE Y RESTAUR ANT WEEK

HVRW Board of Advisors Peter Kelly

Co-Chair xaviars restaurant group

Dr. Tim Ryan

Co-Chair the culinary institute of america

Tim and Nina Zagat Honorary Co-Chairs zagat

Vincent Barcelona

supreme oil company/ admiration foods

Nick Citera

cosimo’s restaurant group

John Crabtree

crabtree’s kittle house

Janet Crawshaw

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Agnes Devereux

the village tea room restaurant and bake shop

Cathryn Fadde

cathry n’s tuscan grill

Eric Gabrynowicz restaurant north

Stephan Hengst

the culinary institute of america

Josh Kroner

terrapin restaurant

Rich Parente

clock tower grill

Glenn Vogt

rivermarket bar & kitchen

MaryKay Vrba

dutchess tourism

Kevin Zraly

windows on the world wine school

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THE TWISTED OAK L D T 61 Main St, Tarrytown (914) 332-1992; thetwistedoakny.com Italian influenced American farmhouse cuisine with homemade pasta and charcuterie featured prominently on the menu.

VINTAGE 1891 KITCHEN D T X 2098 Boston Post Rd, Larchmont (914) 884-9463; vintage1981kitchen.com A creative New American restaurant and lounge for diners to relax in and enjoy a beautifully renovated space and seasonal menu.

TWO SPEAR STREET D X 2 Spear St, Nyack (845) 353-7733; 2spearstreet.com New American cuisine in a romantic setting on the river overlooking the Tappan Zee.

WASABI NYACK L D X 110 Main St, Nyack (845) 358-7977; wasabinyack.com Chef Doug Chi Nguyen brings his international influence and love of food to Nyack, serving up artfully plated sushi and entrées.

UNION RESTAURANT & BAR LATINO L D X 22-24 New Main St, Haverstraw (845) 429-4354; unionrestaurant.net Continental cuisine with a Latin twist in an upscale hacienda setting. Friendly staff and specialty cocktails and sangrias. UNOODLES SNACK BAR D X 14 Main St, Haverstraw (845) 947-7625; unoodles.net Set in a 1950s-style bar, taste some of the best noodle dishes in Rockland County while enjoying a creative cocktail and live entertainment. VALLEY RESTAURANT AT THE GARRISON D 2015 Rt 9, Garrison (845) 424-3604; thegarrison.com Farm-to-table cuisine using ingredients from its own and surrounding area farms, served within an elegant country setting with river views. THE VAULT L D T X 448 Main St, Beacon (845) 202-7735; thevaultbeacon.com A locally sourced artisanal American menu combines creative takes on traditional dishes with a fresh raw bar and cheese charcuterie selection. VELO BISTRO WINE BAR L D X 12 N Broadway, Nyack (845) 353-7667; velonyack.com Food and wine pairing elevated to an art form at this trendy Nyack mainstay offering adventurous good cooking and 20 wines by the glass. VESUVIO’S RISTORANTE L D 300 Dupont Ave, Newburgh (845) 565-3199 Widely known for delicious Italian fare and exceptional service amongst diners in Newburgh and the Hudson Valley. VILLAGE SOCIAL KITCHEN & BAR L D T X 251 E Main St, Mount Kisco (914) 864-1255; villagesocialkb.com An upbeat, inviting atmosphere with locally sourced ingredients from its cheeses and produce to its meat. VILLAGE TEAROOM RESTAURANT & BAKE SHOP L D 10 Plattekill Ave, New Paltz (845) 255-3434; thevillagetearoom.com European-style tearoom offering a full menu of sophisticated foods, showcasing Irish roots and a commitment to local farms. VILLAGGIO ITALIAN RESTAURANT L D T X 389 N Central Ave, Hartsdale (914) 949-3427; villaggiosrestaurant.com Exceptional service and classic Italian dishes, a product of being family-owned for 38 years.

WILDFIRE GRILL L D 74 Clinton St, Montgomery (845) 457-3770; wildfireny.com A popular local eatery where patrons feast on an eclectic, predominantly American menu with Asian, Mexican and Italian influences. WINSTON RESTAURANT D T X 130 E Main St, Mount Kisco (914) 244-9780; winstonrestaurant.com Diners can enjoy New American fare on the three different levels of the restaurant: the gastropub, the dining room and the seasonal rooftop bar. WOODNOTES GRILLE D 5340 Rt 28, Mount Tremper (845) 688-2828; emersonresort.com Based on Ralph Waldo Emerson’s famous poem “Woodnotes,” the contemporary country-style restaurant offers a variety of locally sourced dishes that hone in on the local Catskills spirit. THE WOULD D 120 North Rd, Highland (845) 691-9883; thewould.com New American cuisine with a French flair and a long history of warm hospitality in the heart of apple country. X20 – XAVIARS ON THE HUDSON L D T 71 Water Grant St, Yonkers (914) 965-1111; xaviars.com Classic French technique with Italian and Spanish influences and Asian embellishments yields an original cuisine unique to the Hudson Valley. YONKERS BREWING COMPANY L D T X 92 Main St, Yonkers (914) 226-8327; yonkersbrewing.com Nestled in the last remaining trolley barn in Westchester County, beers brewed on site paired with a great pub fare menu. ZOILA’S RESTAURANT L D 2092 Rt 302, Circleville (845) 361-2222; zoilasrestaurant.com A hidden gem turning locally sourced ingredients into classic Latin and American comfort food dishes amidst a cozy setting. ZUPPA L D T 59 Main St, Yonkers (914) 376-6500; zupparestaurant.com A white tablecloth Italian restaurant presents a refined collection of dishes in one of three dining rooms. A sommelier details a 2,500-bottle collection from the wine cellar.

For the most up-to-date information visit HudsonValleyRestaurantWeek.com

KEY: l LUNCH $20.95 d DINNER $29.95 t CONVENIENT TO METRO-NORTH x EXCLUSIONS APPLY

MARCH 7–20, 2016

HUDSONVALLEYRESTAURANTWEEK.COM

#HVRW

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LOCALLY GROWN

branching out:

the farmer as arborist

hat a wondrous expression o f

life trees are. Beyond their own existence, there are all the life-enhancing qualities they provide for other species—food, shelter, shade, clean air, protection from wind and rain, carbon sequestration and erosion control. A world without trees is hard to imagine. Ninety-nine percent of the labor on our farm goes to growing vegetables and herbs for market, but every two or three years we’ve been unable to resist the urge to plant a few trees. Thanks to our past efforts, today there are about 80 fruit- and nut-bearing trees scattered around the farm, including apples, peaches, persimmons, quince, pawpaw, chestnut and butternut, as well as an assortment of noncommercial trees like willows, spruce and red maples. We do not spray any of them with chemicals or use synthetic fertilizer. Thanks to a long spell of surprisingly congenial weather, 2015 was a banner year

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by keith stewart

for apples in the Hudson Valley. There were no periods of extreme drought, no excessive rains, no widespread windstorms or devastating hail. In the first weeks of May, all our fruit-bearing trees produced a massive and uncommon profusion of blossoms—what commercial growers refer to as a “snowball bloom.” The second half of the month was warm and dry— ideal conditions for pollination and a resulting heavy fruit set. June brought welcome rains, while a dry July and August kept pests and disease pressure down. September brought more rain, which allowed developing fruit to put on size. Temperatures in October were mostly benign. All in all, it was a recipe for success. That’s not to say that management practices are irrelevant—on the contrary, there are plenty of factors that can influence the harvest. If you’ve got a hankerin’ to “grow your own,” here are some very basic pointers for the beginning grower of apple trees.

Selecting an apple variety There are several factors to consider when choosing which apple variety to plant: when the fruit ripens (early, mid- or late fall); flavor (sweet, tart or somewhere between); texture (crisp, tender, juicy); best use (fresh eating, baking, salads, sauce); storage life; and resistance to disease. Tree nurseries and their catalogs eagerly tout the attributes of the various cultivars they offer. Personally, I like a little tartness, and we give high marks to varieties that have a moderate storage life and some resistance to common apple diseases. Liberty, Freedom and MacFree are three varieties we like, especially for their disease resistance. Most apple trees are not self-pollinating, nor will they pollinate the flowers of other trees of the same variety. This means you must plant at least two different apple varieties that flower at roughly the same time. Otherwise you’ll have a meager fruit set, or possibly no fruit set at all. Tree size Standard trees are the ones our parents and grandparents knew, though they are not as common as they used to be. A standard apple tree can grow to be 30 feet tall and 30 feet wide and, if it remains healthy, it will bear a tremendous amount of fruit over a long period of time—but you have to wait at least seven years for the first fruit to appear. Standard trees are challenging to manage: They must be pruned, thinned and sprayed (if you choose to spray). Also, you need a long ladder or good tree-climbing skills to harvest apples from standard trees, which invites more opportunities for accidents. At the other end of the spectrum are dwarf trees. These generally reach a height and width of just 8 to 10 feet. They are relatively easy to manage, require less pruning and can bear fruit just three years after planting. Because of their diminutive size, harvesting the fruit also is easy. Commercial growers increasingly favor the dwarfs because of their manageability and rapid maturity. On the down side, dwarf trees bear fewer fruit than standard trees, and they are not as sturdy or well-grounded. They should be staked so they don’t get uprooted and blown over in strong winds or when carrying a heavy fruit load. Semi-dwarf trees are just what you might expect—in between dwarfs and standards. They reach a height of between 12 and 15 feet, generally bear fruit three or four years after planting and require a bit more work to manage. They are sturdier and better rooted than dwarfs; once mature, they will yield twice as much fruit

as dwarfs but about half what a standard tree will bear. A tall person can access most of the fruit on a semi-dwarf without a ladder. We have all three tree sizes on our farm. We like our standard trees for their beauty, longevity and heavy fruit set. We appreciate the lower management requirements of the dwarfs. At the end of the day, though, we find semi-dwarf trees to be the best choice.

Soil and location It’s a good idea to have your soil tested before planting any tree or vegetable. Apple trees prefer relatively deep and well-drained soil with a pH ideally between 6.2 and 6.8. A few rocks, even big ones, are not a problem. Adjust the pH of your soil with any of the major nutrients like phosphorous, potassium, calcium or nitrogen. Most trees like at least six hours of full sun a day; apples can tolerate a little bit of shade, but too much will definitely hamper their growth and fecundity. (For more information on soil testing and pH adjustment, see “The Dirt on Dirt” in The Valley Table 65, Spring 2014.)

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Planting Apples and most other fruit trees are not grown from seed—if they were, they would not grow “true to type.” Instead, they are propagated by grafting a scion (a stem, with leaf buds) of one tree onto the rootstock of another. It’s very important that the grafting point (identified by a bump, offset angle or change in bark color near the base of the trunk) is positioned at least two to three inches above soil level when planting an apple tree. The best time to plant apple trees is in the spring after the ground is fully thawed and drained of excess water. Plant your trees promptly after they arrive from the nursery. The roots should be moist (soak them in water overnight if they are dry); any damaged roots should be trimmed. Dig a hole big enough to accommodate the roots without having to fold any of them, and rough up the sides of the hole with a pick or hoe so they are not smooth or glazed. As you place the tree roots in the hole, spread the topsoil over them and tamp it down with your foot or a heavy blunt object to get rid of any air pockets. Throw some mature compost into the hole if you have any, along with any amendments recommended by a soil test. The subsoil from the lower depths of the hole should go back into the hole last. Once your tree is in the ground, it will need plenty of water to set its roots into the soil. Give it at least five to ten gallons over a period of several minutes; a week later give it another good soaking.

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Pruning and thinning Unless you have purchased a pre-pruned tree (recognizable by cut branches), it’s important to prune back some of the side branches immediately after planting. This stimulates growth in the other limbs and restores balance between the tree’s above-ground and belowground parts. (Tree roots are traumatized and damaged when they are dug up at the nursery; cutting back some of the lower branches reduces the nutrient demand and allows the roots to re-establish themselves.) As the trees grow, further pruning during dormant periods is highly recommended—most backyard orchardists tend to prune too little rather than too much. The objectives are to remove damaged and dead branches; to improve structural strength, access and productivity; to reduce congestion; and to allow more light to reach a tree’s center. Lopping shears, hand pruners, a small bow saw and a good ladder are the tools of the trade. Guidelines for different approaches to pruning can be found in nursery catalogs, books and online. Once the trees start bearing, thinning (removing excess fruit) should be done ruthlessly. In a good year, a dwarf or semidwarf apple tree might produce up to 500 fruits. If left alone, a fair number will usually drop off in June (the “June drop”), but there will likely be so many still remaining that, at maturity, the average fruit will be not much bigger than an apricot. Non-organic commercial growers use chemical thinners (usually caustic materials or hormonal-type growth regulators) to induce more of the small apples to drop. Fewer fruit left on the trees means those remaining will be larger and of better quality. Usually, the only recourse organic growers or those who don’t want to induce further fruit drop with chemicals is to thin by hand. This is done soon after the June drop, when the apples are about an inch in diameter. The recommendations are that only one fruit (preferably the biggest) be left in a cluster and that there be no less than four inches between those that remain. A thorough thinning could result in the removal, via pinching or snipping, of 80 percent of a tree’s fruit (no small task). As spring approaches, think about planting some apple trees in your backyard. It’s a commitment, for sure, but one that will pay off over time, give delight and good eating, and make you feel more connected to the earth we live on. 4

FARMS, FOOD & MARKETS

2016 csa farms

ommunity supported agriculture ( csa ) projects are an increasingly popular way for consumers to have access to fresh, seasonal produce straight from the farm. A CSA “membership” or “share” (usually purchased before the growing season starts and often available at different price levels) entitles the member to a specified amount of fresh, seasonal produce on a weekly or bi-weekly schedule. Sometimes, additional options may be available that supplement the basic share with eggs, meat, dairy or other products. The member’s share usually must be picked up at the farm, though some CSAs offer delivery to specified locations. The most obvious benefits of a CSA are that, barring some natural disaster that devastates the farm, members are illustration by eliot gee

guaranteed a certain amount of fresh produce throughout the growing season, and the farmer receives additional working capital at a critical time. The CSA model has proven to be successful in most cases, and it’s even being copied for other types of consumer products, such as flowers, wine, spirits and art, or adapted for special situations such as distributing fresh produce to inner-city locations or to health- or elder-care facilities. Joining a local CSA project is one way consumers can be certain about where, how and who is growing the food they’re eating, while simultaneously helping to strengthen the region’s agricultural economy by dealing directly with a local producer. It’s one of those rare win-win situations available to almost everyone. march

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2016 csa farms COLUMBIA COUNTY Hawthorne Valley Farm 327 Rt 21C, Ghent Lucy Marston (518) 672-4465 ext.257 farmadmin@hawthornevalleyfarm.org www.hawthornevalleyfarm.org A Demeter Certified Biodynamic Farm, offers seasonal vegetable and fruit shares. Pick-up: Friday at farm in Ghent; Thursday at city locations (Riverdale, Inwood, Garden City). Vegetable share: $550–$600 depending on location pick-up. Runs June–November. The Farm at Miller’s Crossing 81 Roxbury Rd, Hudson Katie Smith & Chris Cashen (518) 851-2331 kasorganic@hotmail.com www.farmatmillerscrossing.com See website for details. Hawk Dance Farm 362 Rodman Rd, Hillsdale Diane Creed (518) 325-1430 hawkdancefarm@yahoo.com www.hawkdancefarm.com www.facebook.com/hawkdancefarm Certified Naturally Grown. Herbs, flowers, heirloom vegetables. Prices TBA. Pick-up on farm, Copake-Hillsdale Farmers Market, Millerton Farmers Market. May–October. Lineage Farm 67 Pinewood Road, Hudson Jon & Jen Ronsani (518) 755-3391 lineagefarm@riseup.net www.lineagefarmcsa.com Choose your own produce, plus meat, eggs and fruit available through other farms. Large and small shares, prices vary by location. Pick-up: Greenpoint (Brooklyn), Poughkeepsie, White Plains, Hudson and Scarsdale. Little Seed Garden PO Box 195, Chatham Claudia & Wille Denner (518) 392-0063 littleseedgardens@yahoo.com www.littleseedgardens.com Certified organic vegetables. Pick-up: Chatham, Rhinebeck. Prices TBA. Red Oak Farm 1921 US Rt 9, Stuyvesant Taylor Tribble & Amy Brown (518) 799-2052 redoakfarmny@yahoo.com www.redoakfarmny.com

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Produce share: $495. Pick-up: Friday at the farm; Saturday at Hudson Farmers Market; Tuesday at St. James Albany Market. May–November. Winter share also available from mid-November– Christmas; $110. Roxbury Farm 2501 Rt 9H, Kinderhook Jean-Paul Courtens & Jody Bolluyt (518) 758-8558 info@roxburyfarm.com www.roxburyfarm.com Produce shares for 22 weeks (prices vary). Fruit shares available as well as pork, beef, lamb and chicken. Pick-up in Columbia County, Capital District, 86th Street, Harlem and Westchester. Threshold Farm 16 Summit St, Philmont Hugh Williams & Hanna Bail (518) 672-5509 thresholdfarm@gmail.com Biodynamically grown. Fruit shares include peaches, pears and apples. Some vegetables. Grass-fed beef. Prices TBA. Pick-up on farm. Tiny Hearts Farm County Rt 7A, Copake Luke & Jenny (914) 236-0760 info@tinyheartsfarm.com www.tinyheartsfarm.com Fresh cut, mixed flower bouquets. 180 varieties of flowers grown. Full share: 15 weeks, $300. Half share: 7 weeks, $150. Pick-up on farm.

DUTCHESS COUNTY Common Ground Farm 79 Farmstead Ln Stonykill Farm Environmental Education Center, Wappingers Falls (845) 231-4424 membership@commongroundfarm.org www.commongroundfarm.org Non-profit educational farm project. Ecologically grown without chemical fertilizers, herbicides or pesticides. Herbs, veggies and flowers. U-Pick Shares $150. Fishkill Farms 9 Fishkill Farm Rd, Hopewell Junction Josh Morgenthau (845) 897-4377; www.fishkillfarms.com Tree fruits, berries, vegetables; pick-up on farm on Friday nights or Saturday Mornings, or at Old Stone House in Park Slope, Brooklyn on Saturdays. Pick-your-own or pre-picked fruits and vegetables, with the following add-ons available: dairy, egg, milk. Large share $950, small share $650. Runs June–late November. Additional Winter CSA from December–March.

Great Song Farm 475 Milan Hill Rd, Red Hook (845) 758-1572 greatsongfarm@riseup.net www.greatsongfarm.com Great Song Farm offers 22 weeks of draft horse powered vegetables, grown using organic and biodynamic practices, from June through November. A regular share is $550 and a family size share is $875. Bi-weekly regular shares are also available for $300. Flexible pickups are on-farm, weekly, on either Wednesday or Saturday. Each share includes 6–12 vegetable items weekly, as well as pick-your-own peas, cherry tomatoes, beans, cut flowers and herbs. We also offer other local, organic products in our farm store. SNAP benefits are accepted, and further financial assistance is available if needed. Hearty Roots Community Farm 1830 Rt 9, Germantown Benjamin Shute (845) 943-8699 farm@heartyroots.com www.heartyroots.com Full shares cost $600 per season; half shares cost $325. Pick-up: Woodstock, Kingston, Red Hook or at the farm in Clermont. Shares also distributed to NYC. Eggs and pork available at additional cost. Runs June–November. Meadowland Farm 689 Schultzville Rd, Clinton Corners (845) 554-6142 judah@meadowlandfarmny.com www.meadowlandfarmny.com Produce only for 20 weeks, $500 per share. Produce for 20 weeks and farm-raised lamb and/ or pork (one meat delivery per month for five months), $750 per share

Northwind Farms 185 W. Kerley Corners Rd, Tivoli Jane Biezynski (845) 757-5591 northwindfarms@citlink.net www.northwindfarmsallnatural.com All-natural meat and poultry shares. Summer program May–October; Winter program December–March. Different share sizes available to accommodate the customer. Pick-up on farm or in Brooklyn. Please contact for prices and share details. Obercreek Farm 81 New Hamburg Rd, Wappingers Falls (845) 298-0888 katie@obercreekfarm.com www.obercreekfarm.com Partnership with Common Ground Farm. Full share $625; half share $350 if you sign up by March 31. Pick-up on the farm, at Ella’s Bella’s in Beacon, or at Chappaqua Farmers Market in Westchester. 22-week shares, June-October. Paisley Farm Rt 9, Tivoli on county line (845) 756-3803 usfarms@hotmail.com Summer share ends in November; Spring foraging share in April. Winter share is every other week, January–March; Pick-up at the farm; locations in NYC as well. Poughkeepsie Farm Project Vassar College Farm, Poughkeepsie Lee Anne Albritton (845) 516-1100 info@farmproject.org www.farmproject.org A non-profit farm project. Offers vegetable shares on a sliding scale. Large share: $644– $812; small share $366–$456. Working shares available. June–November. Pri Haemek Bounty of the Valley CSA 147 Bart Dr, Poughkeepsie Debbie Most (845) 454-3747 bountyofthevalley@gmail.com www.botvcsa.wix.com/botv Local farm providing sustainably grown produce, June–October, with weekly pickups at the Hudson Valley Community Center, Poughkeepsie. The produce for the CSA is provided by Lineage Farm in Hudson, NY. Sisters Hill Farm 127 Sisters Hill Rd, Stanfordville David Hambleton (845) 868-7048 www.sistershillfarm.org Weekly sliding scale: $675–$775; Bi-weekly sliding scale: $360–$410. Local pick-up at Stanfordville Tuesdays 4–6pm and Saturdays 8–11 am. Bronx pick-up at the College of Mount Saint Vincent Tuesdays 4–6pm. Sol Flower Farm Store 41 Kaye Rd, Millerton Andy Szymanowicz (518) 567-1951 www.solflower.com march

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Certified Naturally Grown fresh produce and cut flowers; other local products including meat, dairy, cheese, fresh bread. New farm store open May until Christmas. Starling Yards 81 Echo Valley Rd, Red Hook Kimberly Hart (646) 831-8311 www.starlingyards.com Family-operated, sustainable farm offering vegetable, egg and flower shares from June through October. Two share sizes. Pick-up: Tuesday and Friday at Starling Yards in Red Hook. Thanksgiving packages available. Add-on options: meat, mushrooms, dairy, and other local produce.

GREENE COUNTY Stoneledge Farm 359 Ross Ruland Rd, South Cairo Pete & Debbie Kavakos (518) 622-3003 www.stoneledge.farm Stoneledge Farm has brought top quality certified organic produce to our CSA members for 20 years. Delivering to 22 locations from Greene County to Westchester, NYC and Connecticut. For more information on delivery locations in your neighborhood or to become a Stoneledge Farm CSA member, please visit our website.

ORANGE COUNTY Bialas Farms 74 Celery Ave, New Hampton Kasha Bialas (845) 374-4925 farmer@bialasfarms.com www.bialasfarms.com Produce enough for a family of 4 for one week. Pick-up in New Hampton, NY, and Ringwood, NJ. Summer CSA June–October, Winter CSA October–January. Free choice options and preboxed options available. Blooming Hill Farm 1251 Rt 208, Blooming Grove Guy Jones (845) 782-7310 info@bloominghillfarm.com www.bloominghillfarm.com Farm open year-round. CSA program works through a credit system. Purchase $250 half share for $275 of credit or $500 full share for $550 of credit. Credit is used to choose your own produce Saturdays, 10-2, on the farm. Ongoing enrollment. Gray Family Farm 261 Otterkill Rd, New Windsor Jennifer Migdal (845) 534-0365 grayfamilyfarm77@yahoo.com www.grayfamilyfarm.com Seasonal CSA of local, organic & foraged produce, organic eggs and all natural, free-range meats. $1275 for 15 weeks, members receive a weekly basket with a combination of meats, vegetables, eggs and specialty items. Our passion is to help educate people about sustainable,

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all-natural farming. Our vegetables and fruits are all grown organically and naturally with no pesticides, insecticides or chemical fertilizer. Our farm uses biodynamic agricultural processes. Our poultry receives only non-GMO feed. J. Glebocki Farms 19 Maloney Ln, Goshen Kelly Schaeffer (845) 651-8088 kelly@glebockifarms.com www.glebockifarms.com Pick-up: Thursday 2–7 at the farm. Weekly share includes 6–8 varieties of produce which feed an omnivorous family of 4. Price: $525. Runs for 22 weeks starting the second week of June and ending the third week of November. Midsummer Farm 156 East Ridge Rd, Warwick Barbara & Mark Laino (845) 986-9699 csa@midsummerfarm.com www.midsummerfarm.com Certified Organic. Pick-up at farm Wed 6:30pm or Fri 10am. Regular share: $765. Total Taste of Farm share (including eggs, herbs, flowers, mushroom, fruit) $975. Peace and Carrots Farm 168 Johnson Rd, Chester Laura Nywening & Jay Uhler (845) 913-6187 peaceandcarrotscsa@gmail.com www.peaceandcarrotsfarm.com $650 full share; $550 U-pick share. Pick-ups Monday 2–7 at the farm. Royal Acres Farm & CSA 621 Scotchtown Collabar Rd, Middletown John King (845) 692-6719 kingj588@gmail.com www.facebook.com/royalacrefarmsandcsa 20-week season. Half share: $275; Full share: $550. Non-GMO; expanding and transitioning to be Certified Naturally Grown.

PUTNAM COUNTY Glynwood Center 362 Glynwood Rd, Cold Spring Jarret Nelson (845) 265-3338 ext. 131 jnelson@glynwood.org www.glynwood.org Certified Organic. Full share (designed to feed a family of 4) $700; Half share (every other week) $365. Pick-up: at the farm or at the Garrison Café in Garrison. Meat and eggs available at the farm store during pick-up. End of May–November, 24 weeks. The Farm at Holmes 60 Denton Lake Rd, Holmes David Frost (845) 548-6117 thefarm@holmescamp.org www.thefarmatholmes.org 20-week season from late May-mid October. Fall share available. march

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Longhaul Farm 69 South Mountain Pass, Garrison Jason & Jocelyn (845) 424-6277 longhaulny@gmail.com www.longhauling.blogspot.com Full share $650; Half share $325. Pick-up on farm. June–September. Ryder Farm 400 Starr Ridge Rd, Brewster Elizabeth Ryder (845) 279-4161 ryderfarmorganic@aol.com www.ryderfarmorganic.com Full share $450; Half share (every other week) $225; Half share (every week) $300. Pick-up on farm. June–October, 16 weeks.

ROCKLAND COUNTY Cropsey Community Farm 220 S Little Tor Rd, New City (845) 634-3167 csa@rocklandfarm.org www.rocklandfarm.org A Rockland Farm Alliance project. $750 general share, $650 working share after rebate with 16 hours work/week; $50 cut-your-own flower share; $45 cut-your-own herb share. Pick-up at the farm Tuesdays 3-7 and Saturdays 9-1. Pre-packaged vegetable share available for $790 with pick-up Sat 2-7 at Hungry Hollow Co-op or Thu 8-2 at Nyack Farmers Market. June-November, 25 weeks.

ULSTER COUNTY Evolutionary Organics 283 Springtown Rd, New Paltz Kira Kinney (845) 417-1543 blondykinney@yahoo.com www.facebook.com/EvolutionaryOrganics Market-style CSA June–November, including local fruit. Minimum share $350. Wednesday 4–8pm. Phillies Bridge Farm Project 45 Phillies Bridge Rd, New Paltz (845) 256-9108 melissa@philliesbridge.org www.philliesbridge.org Organically grown vegetables and herbs. Two share sizes, prices TBA. Runs approximately from the first week of June to the first week of November. Rondout Valley Organics Rusty Plough Farm, Ellenville Nadia & Oleh Maczaj (845) 647-6911 rustyplough@earthlink.net www.rustyploughfarm.com Year-round. A unique, web-based CSA program anchored by Rusty Plow Farm and supported by other farms in Rondout Valley and Southeastern Sullivan County. Choose your weekly items. Initial fee: $250 plus $50 non-refundable membership fee. Wide variety of vegetables, berries, eggs, cut flowers, honey, various meats. Pick-ups in Cragsmore, Ellenville, Wawarsing, Kerhonkson, Stone Ridge, Kingston and Mountaindale (Sullivan County).

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Second Wind CSA at Four Winds Farm 158 Marabac Rd, Gardiner Alison Patrick (724) 986-9219 www.secondwindcsa.com secondwindcsa@gmail.com Certified organic and no-till. Full shares $550; offer local fruit when available and an optional local egg share. Pick-up locations at the farm in Gardiner and at the drop-off location in Garrison. Taliaferro Farms 187 Plains Rd, New Paltz Pete Taliaferro (845) 256-1592 www.taliaferrofarms.com Full share: $1000; Half share: $550; 3-year, longterm full share: $2700; 3-year, long-term half share: $1485; Farm Card Membership: $100 sign up/membership fee, pay as you go a la carte. Pick-up at the farm. Late May–early November. Trapani Farms 730 Lattintown Rd, Milton Tim Trapani (845) 797-6917 Full share $400; Half share $220. June 11– October 15. www.facebook.com/csatrapanifarms

WESTCHESTER COUNTY Harvest Moon Farm & Orchard 130 Hardscrabble Rd, North Salem Christine (914) 485-1210 harvestmoonorchard@gmail.com www.harvestmoonfarmandorchard.com Full and half shares. Pick-up at the farm store on Thursdays, 8am–6pm. July–October or July–September. J&A Farm Indiana Rd, Goshen Adina & Jeff Bialas jabialasfarm@live.com www.jafarm.org NOFA-NY Farmers Pledge Organic and Certified Naturally Grown. Pick-up: Pleasantville (Westchester County) and NYC (Upper West Side). Summer CSA program runs May–November. Pound Ridge Organics 22 Westchester Ave, Pound Ridge Donna (914) 764-3006 PoundRidgeOrganics@iCloud.com www.facebook.com/PoundRidgeOrganics Everything local/artisanal; free choice ordering format with no membership fees. Weekly pick-up year-round. Local, organic eggs, cheeses, dairy products, maple syrup, bread, produce, preserves, pickles, chocolate, and Pound Ridge’s own honey. Animal welfare approved chicken, beef, turkey, lamb, goat and pork. Seasonal gifts, including greeting cards and beeswax candles, available.

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THE VALLEY TABLE

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EATING BY THE SEASON

eat

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by robin cherry

peas

hen it comes to peas , there seems to be no middle ground. Either you’re saddled with the memory of your mother admonishing, “Eat your peas,” (as if eating the overcooked, chalky little orbs was punishment for misdeeds past or anticipated), or you celebrate spring by munching handfuls of fresh, raw snap peas, hoping with each sweet bite that you can muster enough discipline to save some for dinner. A popular crop in the Hudson Valley, peas are one of the first vegetables available in the spring; they’re relatively easy to grow and versatile in the kitchen. But their short season means the favored ones go fast at the markets, and the devil take the rest. Deb Taft, of Mobius Fields in Waccabuc, has had great success marketing her snap peas, but that’s it. “I was hoping that growing yellow and purple varieties of snow peas would make them more appealing,” she confesses, “but it really didn’t.”

The widespread use and long history of peas stretches all over the map. They may have been a regular item in the human diet more than 10,000 years ago, though Chinese history says Emperor Shen Nong discovered them about 5,000 years ago. The Greeks and Romans had domesticated peas by 500 BCE, and the world’s oldest cookbook, compiled by the Roman cook Apicius in the early fifth century, includes nine recipes for peas. Peas are a legume, a family of plants that includes beans, lentils, peanuts and tamarind. Legumes “fix” nitrogen in the soil, and thus are considered a valuable crop, whether grown for cash or as cover. They’re also a member of the food group known as “pulses,” dried beans that are considered a valuable food resource for both humans and animals, as well as an economically significant market crop. (In fact, the United Nations has designated 2016 as “The Year of the Pulses.”)

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There are three types of peas generally recognized. Garden peas have smooth, slightly curved pods with rounded green peas, which may be wrinkled or smooth. Garden pea pods (the outer shell that holds the peas inside) can be eaten, but they usually aren’t because they include a tough, fibrous cellulose lining. Snow peas are flatter, with thinner pods than garden peas. The pod is edible—but snow peas have fibrous “strings” that must be removed before eating. Snap peas are a cross between garden and snow peas. They have plump, crispy, edible pods. Pea greens, including sprouts as well as young foliage and stems, also are edible, delicious and nutritious. (Peas in general are a great source of vitamin K; a very good source of manganese, vitamin B1, copper, vitamin C, phosphorus and folate; and a good source of zinc, protein, magnesium, iron and potassium, as well as vitamins B6, B3 and B2.) A cool-season crop, peas usually are planted about six weeks before the average last frost date, or as soon as the soil is workable. (Peas are not generally started indoors because the sprouts are too delicate to survive the shock of transplanting.) In the Hudson Valley, St. Patrick’s Day (March 17) usually is a good target date for planting. Hudson Valley farmers generally agree that peas are a customer favorite. Kimberley Hart and Thad Simerly, of Starling Yards (Red Hook), call them “an early shot of green sweetness.” They sell snow peas along with very popular snap peas. “I am not sure if people even get their snaps home,” Hart notes, “I think they are a snack on their drive home.” Jake Samscott, at Samscott Orchards (Kinderhook), grows both garden and snap peas and also says snap peas are by far the more popular. Dan Madura, of Madura Farms (Pine Island), grows all three pea varieties as well as pea greens. Snow peas are his bestseller. And if you’re going to paint a still life with peas, Hepworth Farms (Milton) offers the extra-long, fancy Penelope variety, a stunner worthy of van Gogh.

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FOR THE RECORD

Historically, the leaders of our young Republic held peas in high regard. They were President Thomas Jefferson’s favorite vegetable; he grew 30 varieties in his garden at Monticello. George Washington also loved peas, but his attempts to grow them at Mount Vernon met with mixed success. Unfortunately, more recent residents of the White House do not share our forefathers’ affection for the vegetable. Both Clintons and at least one Obama have expressed a disdain for peas. It’s also well known that both Bush presidents dislike all vegetables except ketchup. PEAS ARE PULSES, TOO

The United Nations General Assembly has declared 2016 the International Year of Pulses as part of an effort to heighten public awareness of the nutritional benefits of pulses as part of a sustainable and secure food system. Pulses are legumes (including lentils, beans, peas and chickpeas) that are dried and used for human or animal consumption. The Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) notes that pulses are a vital source of plant-based proteins for people and animals, and it also recognizes the plants’ nitrogen-fixing properties, which can “contribute to increasing soil fertility and have a positive impact on the environment.” The hope is that the events and conferences scheduled throughout the year will encourage more use of pulses as food, expand global production and address the challenges in commercial trade. For more information visit www.fao.org/pulses-2016.

Hart advises home growers to taste the peas often as they approach maturity to determine the best time to harvest. “Tough pea pods are gross, as are big, chalky peas,” he notes, “so knowing which pods are ready and which ones are past their prime is key.” Once harvested, pods should be completely dry before refrigerating. They will keep three to five days before they become starchy. In the kitchen, peas are an easy way to add color, sweetness and texture to a dish while increasing the nutritional value, to boot. With such a long history, wide range and availability, it’s no surprise that peas have found their way into classic dishes around the globe, from Italy (spaghetti carbonara with sweet peas and prosciutto) to Ireland (shepherd’s pie) and India (mattar paneer, mattar masala). Chef David Amorelli, at Harvest-onHudson in Hastings-on-Hudson, has it covered. “I’m, like, half Italian and half Irish,” he says. “My mom would bring prosciutto to a crisp, add some peas, add some cream—and that was a classic side dish. Irish grandmas put them in everything; my grandma’s dishes weren’t the prettiest, but they were delicious.” 4 Starling Yards 81 Echo Valley Rd, Red Hook (646) 831-8311 starlingyards.com Samascott Orchards 5 Sunset Ave, Kinderhook (518) 758-7224 samascott.com Mobius Fields Waccabuc/Katonah (914) 374-9474 mobiusfields.com Madura Farms 1026 Pulaski Highway, Goshen (845) 820-1505 Hepworth Farms 1635 Rt 9W, Milton (845) 795-2142 hepworthfarms.com

I think that peas are underestimated because a lot of the time, people associate them with either frozen peas or baby food. But fresh peas are amazing—you can eat them almost raw. Spring peas happen to be one of my favorites. So, as a chef, being able to highlight an ingredient such as peas with a traditional Italian recipe and showcase both—it’s a great marriage.

SPRING PEA AND WATERCRESS RISOTTO DAFNA MIZRAHI / MONTE’S Ingredients 1 pound fresh spring peas 1/2 yellow onion, julienned 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 pounds fresh or frozen spring peas 4 cloves garlic, minced 1 small shallot, minced 1 cup Arborio rice, sorted & rinsed 2 quarts chicken stock (or water), hot 1 tablespoon salt 1/2 tablespoon pepper 1 cup pecorino cheese 2 cup watercress 2 tablespoons fresh thyme, minced 2 tablespoons fresh mint, chiffonade serves 4 Method 1. Heat 1 tablespoon each butter and olive oil in large saucepan over medium-high heat. 2. Add yellow onion and sauté until fragrant. 3. Add peas and continue to sauté until they begin to soften, about 3 minutes. 4. Remove the contents from the pan; add the remaining butter and olive oil. 5. Add the garlic and shallot, sauté until fragrant. 6. Add the Arborio rice to the garlic and shallot and combine well. 7. To cook the risotto, add stock 1 cup at a time and let it cook out before adding next cup. 8. When the risotto is nearly finished, add the salt, pepper and Pecorino to the rice. The risotto will seize up a bit from the cheese—add a little more stock if necessary. 9. Return the peas and watercress to the pan and toss to combine. Monte’s Local Kitchen & Tap Room 3330 Rt 343, Amenia (845) 789-1818 monteskitchen.com

photos this page by eva deitch

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BARB FISHER / BARB’S BUTCHERY

RICOTTA CAVATELLI WITH GUANCIALE, COUNTRY STYLE PORK RIBS MINT AND SWEET PEA PESTO DAVID AMORELLI / HARVEST-ON-HUDSON

This dish is made with Nduja sausage made by Mark Elia from SWEET PESTO HudsonPEA Valley Sausage Company in Highland. It’s a very spicy, soft, Ingredients spreadable sausage that originated in Calabria, Italy. 2 cups sweet peas 1 cup mint leaves Ingredients 1/4 parsley leaves 11/2cup pounds pork ribs 2 pistachio, blanched & peeled 1 ounces teaspoon white pepper 2 garlic 1 cloves teaspoon sea salt 1/4 cup grated Grana Padano 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1/2 cup extraonion virginpowder olive oil 1 teaspoon 2 lemon juice 1 ounces teaspoon paprika salt to taste serves ?? makes 2 cups Method Method 1. In a small bowl, stir together the white pepper, salt, garlic powder, 1. ring apowder large pot salted water to a boil. B onion andofpaprika until evenly mixed. 2. When reaches boil, of add peas. Return Apply pot a liberal coating thethe spice mix onto to theboil, porkthen ribs.lower Let rest to forsimmer. 10 minutes. 3. W hengrill peas cooked through, strain andthe shock an ice-water Heat toare medium/high heat and brush grillinsurface with bath lock in and flavor. sometocanola oilcolor so the pork doesn’t stick. 4. W henribs peasonare cool 8(after 5 minutes), Place thecompletely grill and cook to 10about minutes per sidedrain (the and put temperature aside to drip of dry. internal the pork should be at least 145°F). 5. IO nptional: a food processor with a chopping combine If you likefitted sauced ribs, brush on blade, the sauce about peas, mint, parsley, garlic Pulse while adding the oil in a 2 minutes before theand ribspistachios. finish. steady stream. Blend to the desired texture, then remove pesto from the processor into a mixing bowl. Barb’s Butchery 6. Fold in lemon juice and Grana Padano. If making pesto St, ahead of 69 Spring Beacon time, omit the lemon juice until you are ready to use. (The acidity will denature the chlorophyll and the pesto will discolor.) 7. Add salt to taste and set aside.

Sweet peas have been part of my life since I was a kid, whether it was grandma opening up a can of peas or getting fresh or frozen peas. My mom would always do something with peas, cream, butter, ham—she’d fry up some prosciutto and toss it with cream, some peas. Today, I create tastes that I had throughout my childhood—I think any real chefs are always pulling from the past.

CAVATELLI AND GUANCIALE

Ingredients 3 ounces guanciale or prosciutto, diced (guanciale is Italian pork jowl bacon) 1 ounce olive oil Method 1. In a large sauté pan heat about 1 ounce olive oil over medium heat until it smokes. 2. Add the diced guanciale or prosciutto. Cook until crispy. 3. Add cooked cavatelli and a few ounces of the cooking liquid. 4. Add desired amount of sweet pea pesto. Toss to coat evenly. Plate and top with grated Grana Padano Harvest-on-Hudson 1 River St, Hastings-on-Hudson (914) 478-2800 harvesthudson.com

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photos this page by jermaine haughton

”We do our best to purchase local, high quality vegetables, meat and dairy. Subsequently, this translates into a greater expense and the necessity to utilize everything… we have a lot of fun coming up with ways to utilize our byproducts.” Fun indeed... in this dish the young tendrils and leaves of early peas provide a fresh counterpoint to earthy morels and charred onions.

GRILLED PORK WITH GARBANZO BEANS, CHARRED SPRING ONION & MOREL CHEF DEVON GILROY / THE CORNER Ingredients Basic brine for pork (11/4 gallons water, 3/4 cup salt, 1/2 cup sugar, black peppercorn, bar leaf, coriander seed to taste) 2 pounds pork rib rack, brined for one hour 2 cups cleaned peas 2 cups cleaned morels (thinly sliced shallots, thyme, salt and extra virgin olive oil to sauté) 1 to 2 cups charred onion soubis CHARRED SPRING ONION SOUBISE

Ingredients 2 Spanish onions sliced thin small bunch of thyme ¹/8 pound unsalted butter splash of heavy cream sherry vinegar to taste Method 1. Sweat onions with thyme until transparent. Remove thyme. 2. Puree onions with butter and heavy cream. 3. Season with salt and sherry vinegar to taste. CHARRED SCALLION OIL

Ingredients 2 bunches of scallions extra virgin olive oil lemon juice to taste Method 1. Preheat grill on high. 2. Burn scallions on grill at high heat. 3. Once thoroughly charred, place in blender, pulsing while slowly adding oil to emulsify. 4. Season with salt and lemon juice to taste. VEGETABLES AND MUSHROOMS

Ingredients 2 cups cleaned morels 2 thinly sliced shallots A pinch fresh thyme 2 cups garbanzo beans butter vegetable stock lemon juice Method 1. Sauté clean morels with shallots and thyme. Season with salt. 2. Blanch and sauté garbanzo beans in butter and vegetable stock, seasoning with fresh lemon juice and salt to taste. Method 1. Grill pork to desired temperature, rendering all the excess fat off the rack. Avoid flare-ups while grilling pork. 2. Garnish plate with charred onion soubise, place the sliced pork on top. 3. Garnish pork with sautéed vegetables and mushrooms. 4. Garnish with fresh pea leaves and a great extra virgin olive oil. The Corner Hotel Tivoli 53 Broadway, Tivoli (845) 757-2100 hoteltivoli.org/the-corner

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SWEET PEA PANNA COTTA BRUCE KAZAN / MAIN COURSE CATERING Ingredients 1 pound fresh spring peas 1 cup leaf spinach 1/2 cup scallions 4 garlic cloves, diced 2 teaspoons olive oil 3 sheets gelatin (or 2 teaspoons powdered or 1 teaspoon Carrageenan) 1 cup milk salt and pepper to taste Method 1. Heat olive oil in skillet. Sauté garlic, scallions and peas, then add spinach and cream. Simmer approximately 2 minutes. 2. Heat milk and bloomed gelatin. Bring to a simmer and dissolve completely. 3. Add all ingredients in a blender; purée until smooth. Pass through a sieve and season to taste. 4. Pour mixture into a silicone mold and refrigerate for at least 2 hours to set. 5. Unmold panna potta and place in the center of a bowl.

We use fresh peas in the kitchen throughout the year because of their never-ending applications in many different cuisines. Their velvet texture makes them a great base for purées, sauces and spreads, and we are able to use the entire plant in the spring when the leaves and pods are tender and crisp. We like to use peas in this panna cotta recipe to add a modern twist to this classic ingredient.

Main Course Catering 175 Main St, New Paltz (845) 255-2600 maincoursecatering.com

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photos this page provided by main course

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I N D E X O F A D V E RT I S E R S PAGE 01 Adams Fairacre Farms / adamsfarms.com 60 Admiration Foods / admirationfoods.com 96 Al Fresco / 845.896.3600 / alfrescoristorante.com 94 Another Fork in the Road / 845.758.6676 / anotherforkintheroad.com 02 Aroma Osteria / 845.298.6790 / aromaosteriarestaurant.com 43 Baja 328 / 845.838.BAJA / baja328.com 95 Barb’s Butchery / 845.831.8050 / barbsbutchery.com 43 Beacon Natural Market / 845.838.1288 / beaconnaturalmarket.com 23 Beacon Pantry / 845.440.8923 / beaconpantry.com 04 Blu Pointe / 845.568.0100 / blu-pointe.com 41 Bluestone Bistro / 845.462.1100 / bluestonebistrony.com 30 Café Amarcord / 845.440.0050 / cafeamarcord.com 40 Caffe Macchiato / 845.565.4616 / 99libertystreet.com 94 Café Mio / 845.255.4949 / miogardiner.com 22 Canterbury Brook Inn / 845.534.9658 / canterburybrookinn.com 23 Cathryn’s Tuscan Grill / 845.265.5582 / tuscangrill.com 43 Clock Tower Grill / 845.582.0574 / clocktowergrill.com 69 Coach Farm / 518.398.5325 / coachfarm.com C4, 83 Cosimo’s / cosimosrestaurantgroup.com 32 Craft 47 / 845.360.5253 / craft47.com 44 Crave Restaurant & Lounge / 845.452.3501 / craverestaurantandlounge.com 63 Culinary Institute of America / 845.471.6608 / ciarestaurantgroup.com C3 Daily Planet Diner / 845.452.0110 / dailyplanetdiner.com 72 Dennings Point Distillery / denningspointdistillery.com 23 Dutchess Biercafe / 845.440.7747 / thedutchessbiercafe.com 54 Dutchess Tourism / 800.445.3131 / dutchesstourism.com 10 Ella’s Bellas / 845.765.8502 / ellasbellasbeacon.com 03 Ethan Allen / 845.565.6000 / ethanallen.com 69 Fishkill Farms / 845.897.4377 / fishkillfarms.com 24 Fresh Company / 845.424.8204 / freshcompany.net 85 Frida’s Bakery & Cafe / 845.795.5550 / fridasbakeryny.com 93 Gino’s Restaurant / 845.297.8061 / ginoswappingers.com 94 Glynwood / glynwood.org 74 Gossett’s Farmers’ Market / 914.763.3001 / gossettnursery.com 87 Gourmet to Go / 845.677.5400 / gourmettogony.com 40 Green Meadow Waldorf School / 845.356.2514 / gmws.org 73 Hahn Farm / 845.266.3680 / hahnfarm.com 07 Half Moon / 914.693.4130 / halfmoonhudson.com C2 Harvest on Hudson / 914.478.2800 / harvesthudson.com 73 Haven Coffee & Espresso Bar / 845.561.9685 / havencoffee.net 70 Hawthorne Valley Farm / 518.672.7500 / hawthornevalleyfarm.org 57 HealthQuest / 800.421.1220 / healthquest.org 74 Hemlock Hill / 914.737.2810 / hemlockhillfarm.com 85 Henry’s at the Farm / 845.795.1500 / buttermilkfallsinn.com/henrys 10 Hop, The / 845.440.8676 / thehopbeacon.com 12 Hudson Havens / hudsonhavens.com 95 Hudson Street Cafe / 845.534.2450 / hudsonstreetcafe.com 55 Hudson Valley Federal Credit Union / 845.463.3011 / hvfcu.org 71 Hudson Valley Fresh / hudsonvalleyfresh.com 73 Hudson Valley Sausage Company / 845.691.9312 91 Hyde Park Brewing Company / 845.229.8277 / hydeparkbrewing.com 02 Il Barilotto / 845.897.4300 / ilbarilottorestaurant.com 11 Il Portico / 845.365.2100 / ilportico.com 61 Irving Farm Coffee Roasters / irvingfarm.com 93 J&J Gourmet / 845.758.9030 / jandjgourmet.com 74 Jones Farm / 845.534.4445 / jonesfarminc.com 22 Joseph’s Steakhouse / 845.473.2333 / josephs-steakhouse.com 86 Le Express / 845.849.3565 / lexpresshv.com 84

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PAGE 10 Leo’s Ristorante & Bar / leospizzeria.com 53 Manhattan Beer Distributors / manhattanbeer.com 60 Metro-North / mta.info/mnr 88 Mill House Brewing Company / 845.485.BREW / millhousebrewing.com 31 Mohegan Lake Audi / 914.528.8076 / moheganlakeaudi.com 76 Mother Earth’s / motherearthstorehouse.com 11 N&S Supply / nssupply.com 87 Nick Zungoli Photographs / 845.469.9382 / exposures.com 32 Nina / 845.344.6800 / nina-restaurant.com 74 Nostrano Vineyards / 845.795.5473 24 NY Victory Cup / victorycup.org 70 Obercreek CSA / obercreekfarm.com 74 Orange County Distillery / 845.651.2929 / orangecountydistillery.com 75 Orange County Farmers’ Markets / orangecountytourism.org/farms C3 Palace Diner / 845.473.1576 / thepalacediner.com 58 Pamal Broadcasting / pamal.com 42 Pamela’s Traveling Feast / 845.424.2333 / pamelastravelingfeast.com 23 Perch / 845.236.3663 75 Phillies Bridge Farm / 845.256.9108 / philliesbridge.org 11 Poughkeepsie Ice House / 845.232.5783 / pkicehouse.com 71 Quattro’s Poultry Farm & Market / 845.635.2018 32 Red Barn Produce / 845.691.7428 C3 Red Line Diner / 845.765.8401 / dineatredline.com 22 Restaurant 1915 / 845.786.2731 x.1915 / visitbearmountain.com 74 Rhinebeck Farmers’ Market / rhinebeckfarmersmarket.com 44 RiverMarket Bar & Kitchen / 914.631.3100 / rivermarketbarandkitchen.com 42 Roundhouse, The / 845.765.8369 / roundhousebeacon.com 74 Sabellico Greenhouses / 845.226.5943 / sabellico.com 30 Samaki, Inc. / 845.858.1012 / samakismokedfish.com 76 Shawangunk Wine Trail / gunkswine.com 72 Sprout Creek Farm / 845.485.8438 / sproutcreekfarm.org 74 Stoutridge Vineyard / 845.236.7620 / stoutridge.com 41 Sullivan County Visitors Association / 800.882.CATS / scva.net 30 Sunflower Natural Foods Market / 845.876.0798 / sunflowernatural.com C3 Table Talk Diner / 845.849.2839 / tabletalkdiner.com 73 TasteNY Store at Todd Hill / 845.849.0247 / tastenytoddhill.com 89 Terrapin Restaurant / 845.876.3330 / terrapinrestaurant.com 85 Thyme / 914.788.8700 / thymesteakandseafood.com 56 Ulster County Tourism / 800.342.5826 / ulstercountyalive.com 94 Utensil / 845.202.7181 / utensilkitchenware.com 24 Valley at the Garrison / 845.424.3604 x39 / thegarrison.com 96 Vault, The / 845.202.7735 / thevaultbeacon.com 95 Village Tea Room / 845.255.3434 / thevillagetearoom.com 09 Warren Kitchen & Cutlery / 845.876.6208 / warrenkitchentools.com 85 Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery / wvwinery.com 40 West Main Kitchen & Bar / 845.297.0510 / westmainkitchenandbar.com 61 Westchester County Tourism / 800.833.9282/visitwestchesterny.com 72 Whitecliff Vineyard / 845.255.4613 / whitecliffwine.com 91 Wildfire Grill / 845.457.3770 / wildfireny.com 03 Williams Lumber & Home Center / 845.876.WOOD / williamslumber.com 90 WKZE / wkze.com 30 Would, The / 845.691.9883 / thewould.com 31 Xaviar’s at Piermont / 845.359.7007 / xaviars.com

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