T H E M AG A Z I N E O F H U D S O N VA L L E Y FA R M S , F O O D A N D C U I S I N E
THE VALLEY
NUMBER 74 JUNE–AUGUST 2016 WWW.VALLEYTABLE.COM
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featured articles 27 hudson valley vodka: @]tb Eajlj_Yb! Potato? Grain? Apple? The possibilities that go into the creation of a good vodka are dizzying (even before you’ve had a glass or two), so we brought in a panel of experts to sample more than a dozen vodkas currently produced in the region. They found Hudson Valley distillers, using local ingredients, are creating top-shelf vodkas worthy of a hearty Russian—make that Polish—toast. by Timothy Buzinski
35 cathryn fadde: bringing it home to perch Walk into Perch—Marlboro’s newest restaurant—and you feel like you’ve come home. The atmosphere is friendly, the people are friendly, even the wine list is friendly (and local, like, from right around the corner). Maybe things feel and taste so good here because owner Cathryn Fadde absolutely loves what she’s doing, and that’s contagious. by Marissa Sertich Velie
43 the valley table does a kitchen If all good things come to those who wait and patience is a virtue, what do you call a kitchen that’s taken four years to renovate? Some might call it grounds for divorce, but we call it finished (close enough, anyway). Here’s a blow-by-blow account of our efforts to update our mid-century kitchen and still keep our sanity. Was it worth the wait? You be the judge. by Janet Crawshaw and Jerry Novesky
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13 Good Stuff
Distillers expand; spreadable booze; Pullman excursions; Smorgasbürg comes to Kingston; no-tipping trend; table art in Cornwall; leftover crops; events, books and more
20 Openings
Grano Focacceria, Kee Oyster House, The Kitchen,The Parish, Plantae, Sedona Taphouse, Simon Chophouse, Stock Up, Zest Bistro
55 Farms, Food & Markets: 56 2016 Farmers’ Markets 64 What’s fresh 65 Dining on the farm; County Fairs 67 Eating by the Season Milk 75 Locally Grown Drink it raw, by Keith Stewart 80 Index of advertisers 82 Directory 96 Last call Erica’s ice dreams
recipes 18 Stuffed zucchini blossoms (Il Barilotto) 32 Snake in the Coconut Grove (Tuthill House); Hudson Valley Bramble (Douglass Miller); Rite of Spring (Clark Moore); Not Grandma’s Lemonade (Michael Polasek / Bluestone Bistro)
39 Eggplant Napoleon; Burrata cheese with broccoli rabe (Cathryn Fadde / Perch) 68 Homemade paneer cheese (Navjot Arora / Chutney Masala) 69 Paneer tikka salad (Navjot Arora / Chutney Masala) 70 Homemade ricotta (Jamie Parry / Another Fork in the Road) 71 Ricotta toast (Jamie Parry / Another Fork in the Road) 6
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EDITOR’S LETTER
Water, water, nowhere One big part of the mission of this magazine is to keep you apprised about what’s happening on the food front in the Hudson Valley. That includes, of course, reporting on new restaurants, products, agribusinesses and, well, all the good stuff that we find. Sometimes, though, the news is not good—an environmental crisis here, a product recall there, and our favorite topic of concern, GMOs. These items generally get lumped into a sub-department we call “Not-So-Good Stuff,” because that‘s exactly what they are. You’ll notice there aren’t any not-so-good stuff articles in this issue—no stories about dark clouds threatening our otherwise blue-sky outlook. Actually, we had scheduled an update on the GMO labeling controversy (or debacle, debate, argument, battle—you choose) but, if you haven’t noticed, things have been a little quiet on that front lately. It could be because we’re approaching the silly season (i.e., the presidential election) and most of the economic and political attention is pointed in that direction. Or it could be because Monsanto is the target of a takeover bid by the giant Bayer corporation of Germany. (The merger would create a monster—literally. It would give Bayer nearly global monopolistic control over GMO crops and severely limit farmers’ negotiating power over seed costs, which analysts predict will inevitably rise, causing increased costs across the board at the grocery store. This is not good news.) Then there’s Vermont’s GMO-labeling law, set to go into effect July1. Expect a deluge of lawsuits on the state and federal levels that could take the controversy to the Supreme Court. But there I go, digressing again even before I get started. All the good stuff in this issue reinforces just how lucky we are to be in the Hudson Valley, with its abundance of local products, an active and aware consumer base and an equally aware core of agribusinesses and food services. If there’s one thing we have plenty of, it’s choices. Except that our water supply is rapidly going down the tubes. Recent serious, system-wide contamination in Newburgh and Yonkers, as well as lead contamination in a growing number of municipalities, underscore the most critical issues we’ll face in the next decade—sourcing, treating and delivering clean water. What does this have to do with the food we eat? Absolutely everything. Water obviously is necessary to grow our food, but it’s also the main ingredient in almost everything we cook and eat. For years, municipalities in the valley touted the quality of their water (New York City’s water, which comes from the Catskill and Ramapo Mountains, for example, often has been cited as among of the best municipal water in the world.) Misuse, mismanagement, neglect and (as in Flint, Michigan) greed and fraud threaten many aspects of our water delivery systems. Development in parts of Orange, Rockland and Dutchess Counties is seriously straining the limits of the aquifers to supply water to the increasing population. (What’s being done behind the scenes and under the table to assure water will be available to some communities could be the stuff of a John Grisham novel.) Many of us have lived here long enough to have experienced a water emergency— usually caused by a temporary drought. At worst, it’s only an annoyance to have to ask for water at a restaurant, and perhaps we’re headed toward the time when a water list is offered along with the wine list. That’s pale in comparison to the number of children who could suffer arrested development, learning disabilities and serious health problems from drinking bad water. Overdevelopment and overpopulation right here in the southern Hudson Valley already is straining the few remaining aquifers. Some years ago, we suggested the single most important economic, political and environmental issue facing us would be about water—how much is left, where it is, how to get it and how to keep it clean. You’ll be hearing more about this from us because that’s no longer just a prediction. —JN
On the cover: Beacon Green Teens hands Photo by Jerry Novesky 8
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THE VALLEY TABLE THE MAGAZINE OF HUDSON VALLEY FARMS, FOOD AND CUISINE THE VALLEY TABLE, INC. 380 MAIN STREET, SUITE 202 BEACON, NY 12508 (845) 765-2600 www.valleytable.com www.hudsonvalleyrestaurantweek.com NUMBER 74 JUNE – AUGUST 2016 PUBLISHER Janet Crawshaw janetc@valleytable.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jerry Novesky jerryn@valleytable.com Editorial Assistant Kelly Seiz kelly@valleytable.com Graphic Design Greg Simpson / Ephemera Design Assistant Director of Marketing Laura Lee Holmbo lauralee@valleytable.com Marketing Coordinator Colleen Stewart colleen@valleytable.com Advertising Representatives Tom Best tom@valleytable.com Kayla Del Biondo kayla@valleytable.com
Contributors to this issue
Timothy Buzinski David Neilsen Eva Deitch Keith Stewart Jermaine Haughton Marissa Sertich Velie THE VALLEY TABLE is exclusively devoted to Hudson Valley agriculture, food and cuisine. We support sustainable agricultural practices and efforts to strengthen the links among regional producers, marketers, restaurateurs and consumers. We urge you to patronize businesses that feature Hudson Valley products and to support initiatives that benefit regional agriculture and related efforts. Letters to the editor regarding magazine content are welcome and will be published as space permits. Letters should be mailed to the address above, or emailed to editor@valleytable.com. To be considered for publication, letters must be signed. THE VALLEY TABLE is published four times a year (March, June, Sept and Dec). Distribution is free at selected sites throughout the Hudson Valley or by subscription. Subscriptions are $20 per year. To subscribe, mail a check or money order payable to The Valley Table, 380 Main St., Suite 202, Beacon, NY 12508 or visit valleytable.com. COPYRIGHT © 2016, THE VALLEY TABLE, INC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, mechanical or electronic, without written permission of the publishers. Advertisements designed by The Valley Table are copyrighted and may not be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission. ISSN 1257-8417
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The Finest Southwestern Cuisine Paired with the area’s Premier Selection of Tequila
328 Main Street, Beacon, NY 845.838.BAJA
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GOOD STUFF
EAT ON T HE ART
MANNERED TABLES
SU CCESS WITH EX CESS
NO LEFTOVERS In her first season on a production farm, Audrey Berman had a moment of realization. While harvesting a field of beets, she says she was startled by the amount of produce left behind during a harvest cycle. “It kind of broke my heart,” she says. “There’s all this edible food—it doesn’t look perfect, but it could go to somebody. I always kind of carried that with me.” That moment haunted her through three years of farm work. Through her membership in the Hudson Valley Young Farmers Coalition, she met Laura Engelman, and the two developed the idea of a non-profit “food-gleaning” company that would redistribute leftover produce from Columbia County farms to various food pantries and community organizations. Engelman previously had worked for a similar project in Washington state that recovered more than 25 tons of fresh produce for distribution. Berman and Engelman co-founded Long Table Harvest to collect and redistribute excess farm produce to Columbia County residents. According to 2015 census figures, more than 9,500 households in Columbia County have an annual income of less than $40,000—which means that almost 17,000 people (about a quarter of the county’s population) may lack access to affordable, nutritious food, Berman says. Long Table Harvest currently collects produce from 17 farms (including Common Hands, Hawthorne Valley, Katchkie, Lineage and Roxbury) for distribution throughout the county through organizations like Greater Hudson Promise Neighborhood, Salvation Army Hudson, Valatie Ecumenical Food Pantry, Elizaville Methodist Church Food Pantry and the Victory Bus Project. In-kind donations have provided Berman and Engelman with cooler space, wash stations and harvesting tools. On-call volunteers are needed for gathering and distribution. Eventually, Berman says they hope to expand the program to include Dutchess County.
You can’t eat the art, but you can eat on the art at Hudson Street Café in Cornwall. There, chef/ owner Donna Hammond, has been commissioning local artists to design art for her tabletops for the last four years. This year, there will be 14 in total. “We were painting the tables solid colors, and we have so many artists in here that one day, I said, ‘Paint this for me, will you?’” Hammond says. “Every table has a story.” The tabletop artists include professional photographers and painters, art students and local art teachers. “We’re trying to showcase the artists in the Hudson Valley,” Hammond explains. “It was really just saying, ‘Help me out here, and I’ll help you out.’ It’s so much of who we are.” hudsonstreetcafe.com
longtableharvest.org
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EVENT S NEWBURGH ILLUMINATED FESTIVAL VARIOUS LOCATIONS, NEWBURGH June 18 Celebrate the charm and culture of Newburgh during this all-day, family-friendly festival, featuring pop-up art exhibits, a Hudson Valley marketplace, performance art and a variety of authentic ethnic food. Free admission. newburghilluminatedfestival.com
NO MOR E TWEN TY PER CEN T SOLUT ION
TIP OF THE ICEBERG Last year, celebrity restaurateur Danny Meyer publicly declared that his restaurants would switch to a “no-tipping” policy—eliminating gratuities while raising wages across the board. This January, Eric Korn—owner of Wolfert’s Roost, an intimate 34-seat New American eatery in Irvington—announced he would follow suit. “[Our servers] like it,” Korn says. “We’ve done our best to compensate them at a level where they’re making what they were making previously. While they’ve lost the possibility of someone coming in and leaving a huge tip, we’ve also taken away the [their] fear of walking home with no money or very little money, which I think is more valuable to them.” The no-tipping concept has been slowly gaining traction in America. In November 2015, the national restaurant chain Joe’s Crab Shack effected a no-tipping policy in 18 of its 131 locations, following in the footsteps of a number of independent restaurants that had done the same, including Public Option in Washington, D.C., and Ivar’s in Seattle. Proponents claim the policy puts the front and back of the house on a level playing field, provides servers with a reliable source of income and encourages job stability. However, the policy has raised a number of issues. Because of the increased wages paid to the hourly employees, restaurants generally need to cover the added expense. “What we’ve done is we’ve raised menu prices,” Korn says. “The amounts have varied from just a little bit for some items to up to 30 percent on others.” In theory, if a restaurant eliminates tipping and raises its prices 15 to 20 percent (the average amount of a tip in New York City), there would be no added expense for the customer. Problems arise when a restaurant with a no-tipping policy raises its prices to cover the difference—thus raising its price point in comparison to competitors. Others worry that if tipping is eliminated, service will suffer. “I think that’s a ridiculous concept,” says Josh Kroner, chef/owner of Terrapin Restaurant in Rhinebeck, who has considered adopting a no-tipping policy. Kroner believes servers will maintain their level of service if they’re paid a comparable living wage, just like the cooks or management. Both Korn and Kroner believe no-tipping restaurants are the future of the industry, but they know that future is not yet here. Tipping in America is generally seen as an expression of satisfaction and recognition of “a job well done,” and it may prove difficult to change a behavior so ingrained in our culture. For the moment, all eyes are on those restaurants that have adopted a no-tipping policy. “We haven’t done a full analysis of how it’s worked financially,” Korn admits, “but so far, it’s working as it’s supposed to and our guests are genuinely happy with it.” —DN
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BEER, BOURBON & BACON DUTCHESS COUNTY FAIRGROUNDS June 18 Hudson Valley breweries, distilleries and vendors serve up creative creations and combinations of beer, bourbon and bacon. $55 general admission, $100 pre-sale VIP experience, $35 VIP designated driver ticket, $15 designated driver ticket. beerbourbonbacon.com SUMMER SOLSTICE CELEBRATION STORM KING ART CENTER June 18 Spend the evening at this worldclass 500-acre sculpture park during their premier Hudson Valley event. Featuring cocktail reception, gourmet farm-to-table-dinner and private tours of grounds and current exhibitions. summersolstice@stormkingartcenter.org BAD SEED SAUSAGE & CIDER FEST BAD SEED CIDERY July 3 Over 15 styles of small-batch hard cider paired with Hudson Valley Sausage Company sausages and Cake Artist Café’s bite-sized desserts. Live music and evening fireworks. $10 designated drivers. $18 3-plate sausage deal. $24 in advance. badseedhardcider.com STRAIGHT UP NEW YORK WARWICK VALLEY WINERY & DISTILLERY July 9 Nearly two-dozen of the state’s leading craft spirits producers come together to celebrate the New York craft spirits industry along with farmers, authors and chefs. $40 general admission, $15 designated drivers, $75 round-trip shuttle from NYC. wvwinery.com
SP IRIT ED DEVELOP M ENT
UP AND UP “Hudson Valley Distillers may have started small, but our spirits have been very well received and we just can’t keep up with demand using our current equipment.” So says Tom Yozzo, co-founder and head distiller at Hudson Valley Distillers in Clermont. Widespread praise for the company’s products, including a Best in Class Vodka award at the 2016 Spirits Conference and Vendor Expo in April, has spurred the two-year-old company to “expand the wholesale side of the business in a meaningful way,” according to Chris Moyer, co-founder and business manager. The quartermillion-dollar project includes adding a new building and equipment. The distillery produces vodka, applejack, bourbon and whiskey.
Hudson Valley Distillers Spirits Grove Farm 1727 Rt 9, Clermont hudsonvalleydistillers.com
photos this page by eva deitch
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EVENT S
MOR N IN G SH OT
SPREADABLE EDIBLE BOOZE It’s not really meant for breakfast—yet—but if you want a shot of wine or beer with your morning coffee, Julie Neely, chef/owner of Haven Coffee and Espresso Bar in Newburgh’s Middlehope area, can help. She’s designed “spreadable booze”—a trio of beer and wine jellies that can take standard menu items like grilled cheese and peanut butter and jelly to new heights. Neely uses local spirits in her jellies—the stout jelly incorporates the popular Mother’s Milk brew from Keegan Ales in Kingston. Her Merlot jelly and a sweet white wine jelly are both made using wine from Benmarl Winery in Marlboro. The Merlot jelly displays all of the flavors of Benmarl’s warm, earthy red wine, and, naturally, has similar complements—goat cheese, blue cheese, nuts, good bread and smoked meats. The pale, light sweet white wine jelly, made from Benmarl’s Niagara (a fruity, floral varietal with hints of candied lemon and grapefruit), boasts a strong Concord-grape flavor. It pairs well with soft cheeses—camembert, brie and goat cheese—as well as dried fruits, nuts and crackers. While the wine jellies lend themselves well to more conventional applications, the complex, versatile flavor of the stout jelly makes it perfect as a marinade or glaze for grilled chicken or pork—though it can hold its own on a cheese board, paired with sharp cheeses, smoked meat, pumpernickel bread and pickles. Currently, the jellies are for sale at Haven and Benmarl Winery. The half-pint jars of stout and Merlot go for $9; the sweet wine jelly costs $8.50.
havencoffee.net
D IN N ER ON TH E R AILS
ALL ABOARD When the transcontinental railroad was completed in 1869, successfully connecting the country’s east and west coasts, it introduced a new standard of travel. Extravagant accommodations and gourmet dining cars became symbols of modernity and upper-class luxury. The Saratoga & North Creek Railway, based in Saratoga, is bringing back the era of porters, elegant accommodations and fine on-train dining with a farm-to-table emphasis. The Pullman Table, the railway’s new on-board dining program, boasts New American cuisine highlighted by local ingredients in each region in which it operates. Currently these include Oregon and Texas, and, as of this summer, the upper Hudson Valley. The Pullman Table service is available from July 1 through October 30. It runs on a scenic, 56-mile, three-hour round trip excursion between Saratoga Springs and North Creek and offers lunch on Fridays, dinner on Saturdays and brunch on Sundays. Prices run from $100-$125 with upgrades available. thepullmantable.com/saratoga-north-creek-railway
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THE GREEN ONION GRAND OPENING THE GREEN ONION COMMUNITY CENTER July 9 Come celebrate the opening of Chester’s newest agricultural community center. Situated in the Black Dirt Region of the Hudson Valley, this all-day event will include local food and beverage, live music, outdoor games and fireworks. hudsonvalleygreenonion.com WINE AND BEER FESTIVAL BROTHERHOOD WINERY July 9 The oldest winery in America brings their famous collection of wines and a vast number of fine craft brews from Hudson Valley breweries together for the day, paired with fare from Loughran’s Irish Pub. Ticket sales end June 8. $60 per person. brotherhood-winery.com THE VICTORY CUP KIRBY HILL FARM July 16 Watch the riders challenge each other on the polo field in support of local, sustainable agriculture, then enjoy a farm-to-table meal prepared by Rich Parente of Clock Tower Grill with the players. $30 general admission, $85 golden mallet VIP tent, $135 farm-totable dinner on the field (all in advance). See website for more ticket rates. victorycup.org FIREFLY FEAST 4 HANNA LANE, BEACON July 30 Join in a celebration of local chefs, farms, food and music by dining on local meats, vegetables and drinks while enjoying live performances. $30 in advance, $40 at the gate. BOUNTY OF THE HUDSON WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL APPLEWOOD WINERY July 30–31 A two-day celebration of Hudson Valley wine, produce and culinary creations. Tastings and samples of regional wines, cheeses and specialty products are available from on-site vendors and food trucks. $30 general admission, $10 designated drivers. shawangunkwinetrail.com
TAK E M E TO T HE RIVER
FLEA MARKET MEETS FOOD FAIR “The main purpose of Smorgasburg has always been stuffing your face with well-sourced artisanal food,” says Smorgasburg co-founder Jonathan Butler. Not quite a farm market, not quite a flea market, the popular Brooklyn-based culinary and craft fair Smorgasburg is heading upriver this summer to the site of the former Hutton Brickyard, on the Hudson just north of the Rondout Creek in Kingston. The last remaining structure of the Hudson Valley’s booming brick industry will host the weekly outdoor foodoriented flea market, featuring around 75 food, beverage and craft vendors. Smorgasburg’s original launch date of June 4 had to be moved to Saturday, August 6, because of delays in site preparation. Smorgasburg will offer a variety of prepared foods and handcrafted goods and products Saturdays through October. “There’ll be a few items that might pop up at a farmers’ market—like jars of honey or hot sauce—but we’re not having, like, tables of lettuce or apples,” Butler explains, adding that freshly fried, grilled and prepared food will make up the majority of menus.
At least half the vendors are expected to be food-related, including a handful of eateries from the New York City area (and a couple of Butler’s favorite Asian food trucks, including Ramen Burger and Lumpia Shack). Local vendors onsite will include Sawkill Farm (Red Hook); Outdated, a hybrid antique and coffee shop (Kingston); and Raven & Boar, a butchery/charcuterie (East Chatham). Butler and his partner/Smorgasburg co-founder, Eric Demby, sample products from each vendor to verify their quality. Butler says he and his daughter spent three days driving around the Hudson Valley during her spring break, sampling and tasting products from prospective vendors. Brooklyn’s Smorgasburg reportedly draws more than 10,000 visitors each day. The 70-acre Hutton Brickyard was operated by several brickmaking companies from 1865 to 1980, producing and distributing brick throughout the Hudson Valley and New York City. With prime frontage on the river, the site currently is owned by a California-based real estate investment company and has been the focus of several proposed redevelopment projects over the past 30 years.
Smorgasburg 100 North St, Kingston smorgasburg.com Saturdays, August 6–October 29, 11am–8pm
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STOP AND TAST E T HE ROSES
A DINNER BOUQUET
STUFFED ZUCCHINI BLOSSOMS CHEF RALPH BELLO / IL BARILOTTO Ingredients 2 dozen zucchini blossoms (interior stamen removed) olive oil for frying fresh tomato sauce
Garden vegetables may be a summer staple, but don’t overlook the blossoms and buds that precede them. Edible flowers add flavor and nutrients as well as a splash of color as a garnish on a plate or in a salad. Some blossoms— particularly zucchini or pumpkin—can be stuffed and grilled or fried as an appetizer or side dish. Aside from color and flavor, edible blossoms can also provide a surprising nutrient boost. Zucchini blossoms contain vitamins A, C, E and K, as well as zinc, magnesium, manganese, potassium, copper and calcium. Okra blossoms yield vitamins A, C, B6, plus calcium, iron and magnesium. Those little, ubiquitous blue violets are high in vitamins A and C, and high in antioxidants. They also contain rutin, a compound that strengthens veins. And oh, those daylilies— the blossoms are edible, but the real treats are the unopened flower buds, which taste remarkably like asparagus when sautéed in butter. So, take some time to stop and smell the roses—and taste some, too, along with some violets, daylilies and nasturtiums, as well. Here’s a sampling of edible blossoms you can find around the garden, at the edges of your lawn or in the woods this summer.
Filling 1 quart whole milk ricotta cheese 1/2 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano 20 basil leaves, chiffonade or finely chopped salt and pepper to taste Batter 2 cups all-purpose flour sparkling water (approximately half of a 750 mL bottle, more or less depending on consistency) dash of salt Method 1. In a mixing bowl, whisk the ricotta and Parmigiano Reggiano together until smooth. 2. Fold in the basil, salt and pepper to taste. 3. Place in a pastry bag with a medium tip. 4. Using the pastry bag, fill each zucchini blossom up 3/4 of the way, leaving room to twist and close the end. Reserve prepared blossoms in the refrigerator for one hour. 5. Prepare the batter for the blossoms by mixing 2 cups of all-purpose flour, a dash of salt and slowly adding the sparkling water until the batter is thick enough to coat the blossoms. It should have the consistency of pancake batter. If it’s too thin, simply add a touch more flour. 6. Using a small deep saucepot, add enough olive oil so the blossoms have room to fry. Heat to 350° F. Gently dip the prepared blossoms two at a time into the batter holding onto the stem of the flower. Fry two at a time until golden brown. 7. Remove from the pan and drain on a plate with paper towel and season with salt and pepper 8. Serve over a pool of warm tomato sauce. Il Barilotto 1113 Main St, Fishkill ilbarilottorestaurant.com
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Anise Basil flowers Bee Balm Borage Broccoli Chicory Chives
Coriander Daylily buds Dill Fennel Garlic Chive Hyssop Nasturtium
Okra Rose (hips) Squash (zucchini and pumpkin) Violets
It’s important to keep food safety in mind when foraging. Be sure to properly identify the blossoms; be sure the flowers you pick haven’t been sprayed with pesticides or herbicides, or grown in untreated manure. Above all, correctly identify any plant before consuming it.
FAST FOOD NOT IO N S
EAT THIS FACT Sophie Egan, Director of Programs and Culinary Nutrition for the Strategic Initiatives Group at the Culinary Institute of America, explores America’s relationship with food and comes up with some surprising statistics in Devoured: From Chicken Wings to Kale Smoothies—How What We Eat Defines Who We Are, just released by HarperCollins ($28.99, hardcover). Thoughtful, ironic and often downright funny, some of her
R U STIC R EN OVATION
IT TAKES A VILLAGE Rhinebeck’s iconic Terrapin restaurant, a landmark destination in the Dutchess County village since it opened in 2003, has undergone a major interior redesign, unveiled in May to the delight of patrons. “It was time for a change,” says chef/owner Josh Kroner, who added he thought the main dining room was gaining a reputation of being “formal.” The redesign, by JT McKay of bluecashew Design, is a nod to Kroner’s farm-to-table focus. “Josh was ‘farm to table’ before farm to table became a marketing term,” McKay says. “There’s a real sense of bringing the outside inside with the new look—design elements evoke history and substance. The two-inch-thick, red and white oak tables have real presence—their age and history inform the energy of the entire room.” Each component of the renovation was designed, conceptualized and executed by Hudson Valley artisans. Wabi Sabi woodworking in Rhinebeck created the tables from reclaimed barn wood. Artist Christie Scheele, whose paintings currently are on exhibit in the restaurant, says there was a “synergy” among the businesses that participated in the renovation. “One could say, ‘It takes a village to support a village,’” she notes.
terrapin photos by jennifer may photography
facts are overwhelming (“On Super Bowl Sunday, Americans consume 1.25 billion chicken wings”), some surprising (“63 percent of Americans believe skipping breakfast is unhealthy—yet only 26 percent eat it daily”), but all help paint a table-top view of American culture as reflected in our eating habits, both good and bad.
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OPENINGS
Stock Up 29 Teller Ave, Beacon (845) 202-7400 stockupbeacon.com
The Kitchen/Rockland Roots 753 Rt 9W, Valley Cottage (845) 671-1144 rocklandroots.com Owners of the widely known Rockland Roots food truck, Brian and Alanna Holbach, are revving up to bring the Hudson Valley their popular menu items to a brick-and-mortar location. Their flexible, seasonal menu features locally sourced “pesticide free, cage free, nonGMO and certified organic ingredients” from Hudson Valley Harvest, Cropsey Farm, Stokes Farm and Sugar Hill Farm. (The one permanent menu item is Holbach’s best-selling short ribs—rubbed with house seasoning, smoked, then braised and served on course-ground polenta.) The food truck is a popular destination at stops in Rockland and Bergen Counties; now customers in Orangeburg can enjoy breakfast or lunch indoors at one of the (stationary) tables fashioned from reclaimed wood. Wed-Fri 7:30am –3pm, Sat & Sun 8:30am –4pm
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The Parish 10 Main St, New Paltz (845) 255-4205 theparishrestaurant.com Co-owned by Theresa Fall and Matt Sweeney, The Parish, the newest addition to New Paltz’s Water Street Market, is now serving authentic New Orleans fare: red beans and rice burger, jambalaya, Bayou pork chop, blackened catfish with braised mustard greens and smoked gouda grits (the most frequently ordered dish) and other cajun classics. Paying attention to where their proteins and produce come from, Chef Aydan Tasciotti sources ingredients from local farms such as Campanelli’s Poultry Farm and Sugar Hill Farm. Sweeney and his staff are shaking up a variety of classic New Orleans cocktails at the large 18-seat bar. Sip a Ramos Gin Fizz or one of Sweeney’s own creations—the Huguenot. The restaurant’s indoor/outdoor dining areas overlook the Shawangunk Mountains. So order up a Hurricane (orange juice, three types of rum and homemade grenadine), dive into an oyster Po-Boy and get into the NOLA spirit in Ulster county. Thu-Tue 11am –4pm, 5–9pm; Fri & Sat 5–10pm
“For customers and for us, it’s about stocking shelves, stocking for seasons to come—getting back to how things used to be,” says Lisa Hall, co-owner of Beacon’s newest artisanal deli and sandwich shop. A short walk off Main Street, Hall and husband, Chris Pascarella, along with Chef Adam Sternberg, are piling sandwiches and deli counters with local Hudson Valley products. For the carnivore, rows of locally sourced ham, roast beef, turkey, pastrami, BBQ brisket, bacon, jowl bacon, pancetta, porcetta di testa and pulled pork are available by the pound or on a bun, on a sub or roll. For a quick pick-up dinner, there are rotisserie chickens. A varied and changing selection of salads by the pound include a Brussels sprout and broccoli slaw and a strawberry tabbouleh with Wild Hive farrow are aimed at the vegetarian or curious carnivore. The eatin/take-out menu features 10 sandwiches plus a rotating list of specials. Daily 9am –8pm
Simon Chophouse 3316 Rt 207, Goshen (845) 615-9141 simonchophouse.com
Sedona Taphouse 640 E Boston Post Rd, Mamaroneck (914) 341-1511 sedonataphouse.com “Whatever the customer wants, we’ll make it,” says Ron Duckstein, owner of the newly opened Sedona Taphouse, emphasizing what the restaurant is all about—a fresh menu featuring various steak, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Duckstein and partner Billy Jablonski take their libations seriously: the focal point of the space is the long line of taps, standing at attention behind a 60-foot bar framed by a rustic rock wall. The well-spiced, New American fare is mainly gluten-free; diners can enjoy dishes like the Wild Man Chicken at the outdoor fire pit and wash it down with one of 50 craft beers or 450 bottled beers. An extensive cocktail list is also available. Look for special events, including a Sunday Beer School and weekly Happy Hour specials. Mon-Thu 11:30am –11:30pm, Fri & Sat 11:30am –12:30am, Sun 11am –10pm
As soon as diners pull up to Simon Chophouse in the hills of rural Orange County, they know they’re in for something special. The restaurant sits among the lush and well-kept property of the old J.P. Morgan Chase estate; the elegant, rustic decor and deep mahogany bar ease diners into comfort. Multiple bartenders are ready and willing to shake up one of the restaurant’s signature cocktails (maybe a cucumber gimlet or a sparkling glass of one of the house “infusions”—fresh fruit steeped in wine and/or various liquors). The menu offers contemporary rustic chop-house cuisine, from pasta to pizzas and the most popular dish: Flintstonecut braised short ribs. Diners can admire the refurbished wood plank ceilings, handcrafted by owner T. Milt Simon, who started out as a dishwasher and worked his way up through the ranks in various restaurants around the country. “People that work with us, they are our family,” he says. Mon-Sat 11:30am –9pm
Zest Bistro 380 Main St, Poughkeepsie (845) 433-0331 Born in California and raised in Poughkeepsie, David Cruz, chef/owner of the newest addition to Poughkeepsie’s Main Street, is ready to add zest to his customers’ lives. The 20-year-old Cruz is serving up nutritionally dense meals— even in liquid form. A broad range of culinary influences—Asian, Mexican, American, Mediterranean, Indian and Jamaican—show up in a wide variety of dishes, yet “La Torta” (a traditional Mexican sandwich with warm refried black beans, melted quesillo cheese, fresh avocado and a choice of chicken, pork or the traditional tasajo (steak), all on toasted torta bread, or bolillo, and topped with pickled jalapeños and carrots) is the central item on Cruz’s menu (and a staple of his family’s cuisine). There’s also an extensive list of fresh ingredients for customers to blend into a personalized juice or smoothie. Cruz sources what he can locally and dehydrates fruits and herbs to create his own loose teas. Mon-Thu 10am –8pm, Fri-Sun 8am –8pm
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Grano Focacceria 3182 Rt 9 Philipstown Sq, Cold Spring (845) 666-7007 granofocacceria.com
Kee Oyster House 126-128 E Post Rd, White Plains (914) 437-8535 Best friends and co-owners Kenan Neziraj, Elvi Hoxhaj and Ekrem Gjemajli, put their heads—and their names—together to open Kee Oyster House this past March. The trio entered the industry as local servers and bartenders, but always noticed a culinary void in White Plains: a seafood restaurant fit with a raw bar. Kee Oyster House aims to bring New York’s oyster history back to life. Their most popular menu items may be the cold and hot seafood towers, “opened fresh at the bar” oysters, lobster rolls and oyster po-boys, but for meat eaters there’s plenty of steak on the menu, too. The dining room offers ample seating with a casual yet elegant European-style décor, high ceilings and clean table settings suited to a power lunch with clients or a romantic date night out. Sun–Thu 11:30am –4pm, 5–10pm; Sat–Sun 5–11pm
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Eddie and Lucia Lauria, who took a serious approach to rustic Italian fare at Aroma Osteria (Wappingers Falls), were among the first to introduce the enoteca to the Hudson Valley with the opening of Il Barilotto (Fishkill) in 2001. Now the couple brings a new, casual Italian concept to the valley—not a pizzeria, but a focacceria. With his new eatery, Lauria (who made his initial restaurant mark in the mid-Hudson with Eddie’s Gourmet Pizza) comes full circle, back to the brick oven. Simple eateries based on focaccia are popular in Italy, but Lauria says he could find only one other authentic focacceria stateside—in San Francisco. The concept behind Grano, which opened in March in Philipstown Plaza (Cold Spring), is simple: Offer a family-friendly menu of focaccia (the dough requires a double rise and produces a lighter, airy crust than pizza dough) topped with favorite Italian ingredients (broccoli rabe, sun-dried tomatoes and sausage; clams and fresh garlic with chili flakes; or the “Bianca”—ricotta, mozzarella and oven-dried tomatoes topped with fresh arugula), and make it available by the slice or the sheet, to eat in or take out. The chalkboard menu includes fresh salads, chicken wings (coated with a smoky balsamic and served with an intensely creamy blue cheese dipping sauce). Specialty focaccia sheets range from $23–$25, margherita $18; slices of specialty focaccia $3.50, margherita $2.50 Daily 11–10.
Plantae 55 Broadway, Tivoli (845) 757-2200 plantaetivoli.com The new vegan spot, Plantae, sprouted and grew with one purpose: to connect the growing number of diners choosing vegan and vegetarian options with fresh Hudson Valley produce. Chef/owner Raquel Osorio and sous chef Anthony Riccardulli are dedicated to bringing their customers “well-balanced comfort food with local produce and worldly influences.” The entire menu is available for take-out and features dishes like the PB & Banana (Bread Alone bread stuffed with peanut butter and banana mash and fried in coconut oil) and Plantae Muffuletta (a sandwich filled with giardiniera, artichoke pesto, mild cheese, wild mushroom deli slices, kalamata olives and capers). Seasonally, Plantae sources ingredients from Great Song Farm, CheezeHound, Sweet Maresa’s, Camphill and Bread Alone. Diners can enjoy a meal in the 40-seat indoor dining area or outdoors, surrounded by the raised-bed organic gardens. Reservations suggested; on-site catering available. Wed 12–9:30pm, Thu & Fri 4–9:30pm, Sat 10:30am –9:30pm & Sun 10:30am –3:30pm
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DRINK
@]tb Eajlj_xb! hudson valley vodka
by timothy buzinski photos by eva deitch
I
n the united states , by legal definition vodka is “ without distinctive character, aroma, taste or color,” and domestic distillations of vodka are required to reach a minimum of 190 proof (95 percent alcohol). On the surface, at least, this would seem to contradict people who are committed to one brand of vodka because they prefer its “taste”—indeed, anyone who has sampled more than one vodka can attest to the fact that not all vodkas are created equal. And why, then, are so many different base ingredients used—grain, potatoes, sugar beets or even honey and apples—and why do distillers tout the number of distillations or the source of the water? Vodka, in fact, can be made using almost any main ingredient—if it can be fermented, it can be used to make vodka. The central issue is accessing the sugars in starch-based ingredients. The process requires multiple steps, but the basic procedure includes blending the base ingredient (typically cracked or ground grain) with enzymes (usually in the form of a malted grain), then heating the combination in water. Pausing or holding the process at certain points allows the enzymes to break down
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The taste is what’s important— It has to be flawless.
starches into sugars. When complete, the resulting solution is known as the mash. The sugars in the mash are converted to alcohol through fermentation—the same process used by brewers or vintners. Once fermentation is completed, the fermented mash is distilled, typically multiple times. The first distillation frequently is referred to as a stripping distillation—much of the solids and volatile components are removed (stripped), which saves time and (some claim) creates a cleaner final spirit. The spirit is further distilled for purification. Once the distiller determines the process is completed to his or her satisfaction, the final distillate is diluted with water and filtered to create a clean, drink-worthy product. The filtration method varies by distillery, as well. Harvest Spirits employs a half-micron filtration system for its apple vodka, in contrast to the carbon filter system (much like some commercial water filters) used by many other distilleries. Perhaps the most important difference among various vodkas comes from differences in the raw materials used. Denning’s Point Distillery, founded in 2014 just steps off Beacon’s metro-hip Main Street, for instance, uses red winter wheat sourced from a farm in the Finger Lakes to create its Viskill Vodka. Head Distiller Kyran Tompkins utilizes carbon filtration. “Carbon filtration is where we feel we distinguish ourselves,” Tompkins notes. “We believe wheat makes a softer, more traditional vodka.” He adds that some people perceive a slight sweetness in the finished spirit. One might logically expect that if “sweetness” could be applied to a vodka, it would be evident in an apple-based product; however, apples do not impart their tangy, sugary character to vodka when used as the base ingredient—fermentation and distillation remove the sugars from the distillate. Using apples as the main ingredient simply means that converting starches to sugars using the mashing process is not necessary. (An “apple vodka” trend swept the nation roughly a decade ago, but those were flavored—and sometimes sweetened—spirits that have nothing in common with vodka produced using apples as the base ingredient.) At Harvest Spirits, in the serene, apple-growing town of Valatie, Derek Grout is convinced that the aromatics of a vodka are greatly affected by the base ingredient. He is seeking to make a distinctive vodka using apples grown on the Grout family orchards in Columbia County. “I want to be able to distinguish my vodka from another apple-based vodka [in a blind tasting],” he says. “Otherwise, I’m just selling a commodity. How fresh the apples were, how happy the yeast was—all this affects the finished product.” To this end, Grout devotes significant attention to his “head” and “tail” cuts. Each distillation is broken into three parts: the head, the heart and the tail cuts. The first and the last cuts contain elements that are unpleasant and harmful—these portions are usually collected and redistilled in future batches so nothing is wasted. Grout is especially careful making the head cut. Like most distillers, Grout makes all his cuts based on sensory evaluation: First, he mixes some distillate with water and smells the
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solution; if he perceives hints of vinyl, nail polish remover or model glue, he allows the fermentation to continue. If he does not detect these odors, he’ll taste it; if it passes, he’ll swallow a small amount, testing for any volatility on the finish. “The taste is what’s important—that’s what people are looking for,” he says. “It has to be flawless.” When distilling, Grout always keeps a sample of a previous batch on hand for comparison so he creates a consistent product. Of course, with the deep culture and history of farming in the Hudson Valley region, it’s not surprising that some local distillers are using local potatoes for their vodka. In Middleburgh (Schoharie County), Barber’s Farm Distillery uses homegrown potatoes to give a distinctive spin on potato vodka. Founded in 2015, the first vodka came off the still last fall. Head Distiller Elias Barber confirms what Eastern European distillers of the 1800s quickly learned: Working with potatoes is labor intensive. “Week-to-week, preparing the potatoes is the biggest job,” he says. “This is why not many people [distill with potatoes].” Barber estimates that he and Assistant Distiller Emily Driscoll spend about half their efforts on preparing the potatoes—after grinding the potatoes into a mashed pulp, they load it into a kettle and cook it to convert the starch. When he begins fermentation, Barber is careful to preserve the “nature” of the potatoes. His approach to the stripping run is more about reducing volume rather than eliminating or excluding potential flavor components. Using a column still, Barber, much like Tompkins and Grout, is extremely selective in making his head and tail cuts. “The smaller craft distillers have the ability to make perfect cuts—that’s what separates them from the large distilleries,” he opines. Unlike most distilleries—including Denning’s Point and Harvest Spirits— that use water purified through a reverse osmosis treatment, Barber uses water sourced from a fresh spring just behind the distillery. The water, of course, is filtered (Barber uses a carbon system), but he says he employs a light touch. “Our water has flavor,” he asserts, and he doesn’t want to lose its character in the vodka. All these subtle variations in distilling technique and ingredients undoubtedly affect the aromas and flavors in the finished vodkas. Though vodka seems to a rather basic spirit, local distillers are working with a variety of mainly locally grown ingredients—including wheat, apples, potatoes, corn and even beets—and their skill and artistry in determining the cuts, the choice of water, dilution percentage and filtration methods all influence the character and quality of the final product. These seemingly minor differences, in fact, make for a vibrant local market, and craft vodka is thriving here in the Hudson Valley. As Kyran Tompkins puts it, “There are plenty of styles made here that meet or exceed the quality of the big brands. There is no reason to drink vodkas produced outside of New York.” 4
Barber’s Farm Distillery 3617 NY 30, Middleburgh (518) 827-5454 1857spirits.com Denning’s Point Distillery 10 N Chestnut St, Beacon (845) 230-7905 denningspointdistillery.com Harvest Spirits 3074 Rt 9, Valatie (518) 758-1776 harvestspirits.com Hudson Valley Distillers 1727 Rt 9, Clermont (518) 537-6820 hudsonvalleydistillers.com KAS Spirits 46 Miller Rd, Mahopac (845) 750-6000 kasspirits.com Mountain View Distillery 6080 State Hwy 30, Amsterdam (518) 212-5758 mountainviewdistillery.com Orange County Distillery 19 Maloney Ln, Goshen (845) 651-2929 orangecountydistillery.com Prohibition Distillery 10 Union St, Roscoe (607) 498-4511 prohibitiondistillery.com Tuthilltown Spirits Distillery 14 Grist Mill Ln, Gardiner (845) 255-1527 tuthilltown.com
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T H E
V O D K A S
denning’s point distillery
Viskill Vodka Fresh, clean and straightforward, at times peppery with a hint of sweetness on the finish. A great vodka for entertaining as it will mix with almost anything.
tastingnotes In mid-April, a panel of tasters sampled more than a dozen craft vodkas currently produced by Hudson Valley distillers. The overall impression was that the quality of the vodkas produced here is very high (there’s nary a lemon—make that citron—in the bunch). For the most part, the water and main ingredients used are from local sources, and it’s no accident that many of these reflect a distinct Hudson Valley terroir, as well. Whether you’re new to vodka, or you like yours straight up with a twist or as the base for a classic or inventive cocktail, the variety, subtlety and richness of these vodkas is wide enough to cover any preference. The tasters included: Timothy Buzinski, co-owner, Artisan Wine Shop, Beacon Christy Frank, partner, Copake Wine Works, Copake Douglass Miller, Professor of Table Service and Management, Culinary Institute of America Clark Moore, mixologist, cocktail and beverage consultant Jerry Novesky, editor, The Valley Table magazine
t u t h i l lt o w n s p i r i t s
Indigenous Wheat Vodka A complex and layered spirit, with subtle hints of wheat giving way to dried fruit, figs and wet leaves. It finishes with floral hints and would entertain a connoisseur’s palate.
prohibition distillery
Bootlegger Vodka A nose of caramel corn, with buttery notes. It has a more rustic texture with a fuller weight that would make it ideal mixed in richer cocktails, such as a Vesper.
harvest spirits
Core Vodka Loads of green apples here, at times reminiscent of candy corn or a carameldipped apple. An interesting option for mixing—try this to create a dry, nuanced apple martini.
h u d s o n va l l e y d i s t i l l e r s
Spirits Grove Vodka Restrained on the nose, with subtle apple notes, smooth but with some spice—reminds one of a buttery piecrust. Vodka connoisseurs—try this as a sipping alternative.
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@jaf] or wódka? The etymology of the word vodka is voda, the Russian word for water. Potatoes often are thought of as the original and essential ingredient in vodka, even though the Spanish didn’t discover potatoes in South America until the mid-1530s, while grain-based vodka has been produced in Eastern Europe at least since the 1400s. Where vodka originated also has been long discussed, though that debate is best left for the Russians and Poles to settle.
t u t h i l lt o w n s p i r i t s
barber’s farm distillery
Indigenous Apple Vodka Some candied sour apple elements lead to a bit of caramel. The fruit is more in the background, with a sherry-like salinity emerging.
1857 Signature A bit more mature feeling than the other two vodkas from Barber’s Farm—earthier notes, with nutmeg and pleasant, musty notes. A flight of Barber’s three potato vodkas would be an ideal tasting experience.
orange county distillery
harvest spirits core
Vodka Clean but complex nose with a hint of Szechuan peppercorn, but has pleasant notes of earth and dirt—smells of petrichor. Compelling sipping for aficionados.
Black Raspberry Vodka Nicely focused nose of raspberry that follows through on the palate and then to the finish. This delightful vodka would mix well, or could be used to complement a Linzer Torte.
barber’s farm distillery
denning’s point distillery
1857 Potato Vodka A touch candied on the nose, with a sense of potato on the palate followed by a smooth, mouth-coating finish.
Maid of the Meadow Vodka-based spirit. Layers of aromas and flavors emerge from this spirit, including wildflower honey, chamomile, herbs and hay, all bound by a mild sweetness. Try this as a mixer in place of Drambuie or another liqueur, or sip with triple-cream cheeses.
barber’s farm distillery
kas spirits
1857 Red A lighter, more lifted version of Barber’s Potato Vodka, with similar notes of potato and texture, but nuanced—the Red demonstrates that the potato variety used does affect the final product.
Krupnikas Based on a traditional Eastern European spirit, this bursts with honey and spices—it leads to thoughts of pfeffernüsse cookies. This would lend itself well to warm or hot drinks, perfect for cool summer nights by the fire.
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VODKA C O C K TA I L S
NOT GRANDMA'S LEMONADE MICHAEL POLASEK / BLUESTONE BISTRO Ingredients 2 ounces Denning's Point Maid of the Meadow 1 ounce fresh squeezed lemon juice 3/4 ounce simple syrup 1 ounce club soda
HUDSON VALLEY BRAMBLE DOUGLASS MILLER / CIA
Method 1. Shake first three ingredients and strain over fresh ice in a mason jar. 2. Top with club soda. 3. Garnish with lemon slice. Optional: For a unique twist add 1 to 2 drops of Bittermens Habanero bitters bluestonebistrony.com
Ingredients 2 ounces Core Black Raspberry Vodka 3/4 ounce Drink More Good ginger syrup 4 Hudson Valley strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, cherries or blackberries dash of Tuthilltown Spirits “Bitter Frost” Basement Bitters Method 1. In a cocktail shaker, muddle the berries. 2. Add the ginger syrup, vodka, bitters and ice. 3. Shake for about 15 seconds or until cold. 4. Serve in a chilled rocks glass.
SNAKE IN THE COCONUT GROVE TUTHILL HOUSE AT THE MILL Ingredients 1 ounce vanilla bean-infused Tuthilltown Spirits Indigenous Apple Vodka 1 ounce coconut liqueur 1 ounce Thai chili syrup 3/4 ounce tamarind puree 2 ounces light cream a pinch of ripped basil
RITE OF SPRING CLARK MOORE / MIXOLOGIST Ingredients 1½ ounces Denning's Point Maid of the Meadow Vodka ½ ounce Denning's Point Viskill Vodka ¾ ounce fresh tangerine ½ ounce fresh lemon ¼ ounce vanilla syrup a few chamomile flowers for garnish For the vanilla syrup In a small saucepan, bring one cup water and one cup light brown sugar to a boil, then stir in 5 Madagascar vanilla beans, scraped and sliced. Remove pan from heat and allow to cool. Strain (do not finestrain—flecks of vanilla are an interesting element of the cocktail). Method 1. Combine ingredients in a tumbler, add ice, shake. 2. Double-strain into a chilled, 5½-ounce coupe glass. 3. Garnish with chamomile flowers.
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Method 1. Add ingredients in ascending order into a metal shaker tin. Add ice. 2. Shake rigorously for 12 seconds. 3. Double strain ingredients into a large coupe glass. 4. Shave fresh nutmeg as garnish. 5. Garnish with an edible pansy. tuthillhouse.com
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cathryn fadde
bringing it home to perch
by marissa sertich velie photos by eva deitch
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T
he restaurant business is not for the fa i n t h e a r t e d . According to federal government statistics, two of every three new restaurants close within three years of opening. Cathryn Fadde has beat those odds, handily. For almost two decades, the vivacious owner of Cathryn’s Tuscan Grill, in Cold Spring, has been welcoming guests into her restaurant, serving up Italian cuisine and a carefully crafted wine menu. Now, after her success in Cold Spring, Fadde has opened Perch, in Marlboro, with a locally inspired menu featuring global flavors—and the odds are in her favor again. Though the menu at Perch is more eclectic than the classic Italian served at the Tuscan Grill, Fadde still focuses on sourcing local produce and beverages, involvement in the local community and maintaining a close relationship with her staff. She is, to put it mildly, deeply in love with the hospitality business. “I like to say that I was always in hospitality,” Fadde says, beginning as a flight attendant for Eastern Airlines. “When I was hired by the airlines, they asked me, ‘Why do you want this job?’ And I said, ‘I like people.’ It sounds so hokey—but it’s really true!” When Eastern went out of business, Fadde took up bartending in New York City and from there went to work selling premium Italian wines for Vinifera Imports.
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A wine list isn’t just to choose what you’re going to drink. It’s to see a wine that you drank somewhere before and remember who you drank it with and where you were.
Over the next five years she became an Italian wine expert, traveling abroad and selling wines to businesses and restaurants throughout the City and north through the Hudson Valley. “I’ve been to Italy 20 or 30 times and I’ve talked to growers and visited the vineyards—so I really do know my wines,” she stresses. Her personal history and experience with wine is evident at the restaurants. In Cold Spring, Cathryn’s Tuscan Grill boasts a wine inventory of between 2,000 and 3,000 bottles from more than 15 wine vendors (not including the local vineyards and winemakers who supply their own products). Fadde sees a comprehensive wine list as more than just assuring a satisfying pairing with food. “A wine list isn’t just to choose what you’re going to drink,” she notes. “It’s to see a wine that you drank somewhere before and remember who you drank it with and where you were. Or, maybe you see wines that you hope to be able to drink in the future, whether you can afford them or find them.” At Perch, the menu focuses heavily on local products and beverages. The wine list is rich with selections from local wineries, including Glorie Farm, Warwick Valley, Benmarl, Robibero, Millbrook and Tousey, and 10 taps rotate local brews from Bull & Barrel, Peekskill, Millhouse, Chatham and Captain Lawrence. Before opening Perch, Fadde met Glorie Farm Winery owners Doug and MaryEllen Glorie at a meeting of Meet Me in Marlboro, an agri-commerce group that connects business owners and farms. “We connected, and Doug said he’d bring me some wines we could taste. At Perch, I knew I wanted to feature as much local beverage as possible. I got their Cabernet Franc and I was completely blown away.” To make it easier for guests to try the wines, she offers flights (three sample glasses) of local wines so they can experience a side-by-side tasting comparison—a non-intimidating way for diners to relax and have fun trying new tastes without committing to the purchase of a whole bottle. “I like to do the wines by the glass, so you can have juxtaposition [of tastes],” she comments. While sourcing local food and drinks showcases the bounty of the Hudson Valley and demonstrates a dedication to the local community and economy, it also poses challenges. “All the local sourcing gets done by me,” Fadde smiles. “I get out to Quattro Game Farm in Pleasant Valley for duck; I hit Dutchess Restaurant Supply and Sprout Creek; then on this side of the river there’s Highland Sausage.” (A standing joke at the restaurants is that the best place to find her at any given time is in the middle of the Newburgh-Beacon Bridge.) Though she follows a rigorous routine that requires a high level of organization and planning, Fadde prefers the personal interactions. “These people are really nice. They're helpful. They’re informative,” she says. “I’m having a good time with it—it’s totally a two-way relationship.” Shifting from the traditional Italian cuisine that made Cathryn’s Tuscan Grill so popular with locals and travelers alike, the emphasis on local inspiration at Perch allows Fadde and Chef Paul Roper to create a whole new, eclectic, seasonal menu (albeit with an Italian influence). “Food is interesting—you can’t keep it the same all the time. Here, we have the opportunity to see what’s out there. I’m so looking forward to Hepworth Farm eggplants,” she gleams. (They’re destined to become Chef Roper’s rollatini with fresh ricotta and herbs.) Fadde’s relationship with the local community is only one facet of her success. “I run a very different type of restaurant,” she admits. “I don’t have children and I don’t know about ‘maternal management,’ but I learned the restaurant business from a woman. When you create the right environment in this business, you encourage people to think of it as a career, not just a job. I hire lots of young people in high school
Serious about wine, serious about sourcing local, Fadde says these Hudson Valley wines “blow her away.” At Perch, the wine list draws heavily on surrounding vineyards, including three Cabernet Francs grown within 15 miles of the restaurant. These wines, she says, express the terroir of the Hudson Valley. glorie winery
2014 Cabernet Franc Glorie Winery, at the top of Mount Zion in Marlboro, brings the Hudson Valley this dry red, expressing flavors of cherry and plum. Its dark fruity flavors pair with warm herbs and roasted veggies. Retails at $19. (fjord) 2014 Cabernet Franc Bright red fruit aromas with herbal undertones on the nose and dark cherries on the palate. This food-loving wine would go well with sautéed mushrooms or a smear of paté on toast. Retails at $19.99. b e n m a r l v i n e ya r d s
r o b i b e r o fa m i ly v i n e ya r d s
2014 Cabernet Franc This wine’s fruit and berry essences with the spice of pepper and clove make it a great partner to ripe cheeses like camembert or fontina. The peppery notes and mild tannins make this a good match to a wild game or a spicy tomato curry. Retails at $22.
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and I tell them that school and family is first—you still have to do your schoolwork and you need to look for colleges and all that stuff that kids do. The restaurant has to run, but I try to be flexible with the schedule.” She laughs when she remembers that when she first opened Perch, she realized she did not have a formal training program for her kitchen staff because she hadn’t needed to hire anyone new for 12 years. Fadde strives to make the guests at her restaurants feel welcomed, but she wants her employees to feel comfortable, as well. “I want the environment that my staff works in to be the same environment that I would want to work in,” she says. “We spend a lot of time together and we feel, like, it’s nice to go to work.” That, in fact, may be Fadde’s true secret to success. “You should never do a job you don’t love,” she declares. “I like every part of it. People ask when was the last time I took a vacation—but I don’t need a vacation from this. I like going to work. It’s hard work, but you look forward to it.” (“Except,” she admits, “when you’re short staffed.”) Indeed, if you don’t see her out front greeting guests, chances are you’ll find her in the kitchen, peeling shrimp, mopping floors or helping with the dishes. Otherwise, check the Newburgh-Beacon Bridge. 4 Perch 1 King St, Marlboro (845) 236-3663; perchmarlboro.com Cathryn’s Tuscan Grill 91 Main St, Cold Spring (845) 265-5582; tuscangrill.com
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People ask when was the last time I took a vacation—but I don’t need a vacation from this. I like going to work.
EGGPLANT NAPOLEON CATHRYN FADDE Ingredients 1 large Hepworth Farms eggplant (peel in strips, leaving some skin), slice into 1/4-inch rounds 8 ounces goat cheese 2 to 3 ripe tomatoes, slice into 1/4-inch rounds 1/2 bunch of basil, sliced thin 3 anchovies, chopped 2 tablespoons butter extra virgin olive oil as needed balsamic vinegar as needed salt and pepper to taste makes 4 servings Method 1. In a mixing bowl, combine goat cheese and basil (reserve a small amount of basil for garnish). Season to taste. 2. Season eggplant with salt and pepper, drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar (approximately 3:1 oil to vinegar). Grill the eggplant on both sides. 3. Season tomatoes with salt, pepper and extra virgin olive oil. 4. On 4 plates, stack eggplant, goat cheese and tomatoes in that order (2 to 3 layers of each). 5. Combine anchovies and butter in a small saucepan over low heat just long enough to melt the butter. Disperse evenly over the four Napoleons and sprinkle with basil. Cathryn’s Tuscan Grill 91 Main St, Cold Spring (845) 265-5582; tuscangrill.com
BURRATA CHEESE WITH BROCCOLI RABE AND TOASTED CROSTINI CATHRYN FADDE Ingredients 2 balls burrata cheese, cut in half lengthwise 1 bunch broccoli rabe, chopped bite-size 4 cloves garlic, sliced 4 slices baguette, toasted extra virgin olive oil as needed salt and pepper to taste makes 4 servings Method 1. Bring salted water to a boil in a medium-size saucepot. Blanch the broccoli rabe about one minute and shock in ice water. When cool, remove from ice water and reserve. 2. In a large sauté pan, heat olive oil and garlic until golden brown. Add broccoli rabe and season to taste. To serve: Place broccoli rabe in center of the plate and top with toasted crostini. Place buratta on top of the crostini and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil. Perch 1 King St, Marlboro (845) 236-3663; perchmarlboro.com
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by janet crawshaw & jerry novesky (before) photos by jerry novesky (after) photos by eva deitch
OUR YEARS AGO , WE ANNOUNCED we were embarking on a “public” kitchen renovation project. We already had featured a number of kitchen projects in this magazine, and we aimed to record the redesign process and the rationale behind it; cabinet and appliance choices, the construction process; and, ultimately, present the final product in these pages. Despite the fact that we were totally inexperienced with major house renovation projects and blissfully unaware of the things that could go
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wrong, we were determined to get the project done while we could. Luckily, a neighbor/interior designer dropped in on occasion with advice, encouragement and assurance. It may be many a homeowner’s dream to live in a classic, (late) midcentury California-style ranch with Japanese elements, essentially untouched since the day it was built in 1968. It’s something else entirely to face the reality of updating a house designed and built when electricity and fuel were cheap and design often won out over conservation or the use of sustainable materials. That is especially true when it comes to kitchens. To say we’ve come a long way is an understatement: Advancements in technology, electronics and construction materials and methods have made updating a period kitchen an adventure in possibilities, to say the least. We knew we had to do a major renovation the minute we bought the house—not because the design didn’t match our needs or aesthetic, but because it had to be done. Everything in the kitchen but the refrigerator and dishwasher dated from the time of construction, including the electric range/microwave unit. (We never tested for microwave leakage, but two of the four resistance-coil elements on the range worked intermittently and the oven could take an hour or more to heat up to 400˚F—and that was a gamble.)
(The [cabinet] doors had to be pushed into the latch with just the right touch or the latch would not spring closed—a Zen thing that not everyone could master.
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The original cabinets—and there were plenty of them—were wellconstructed plywood boxes covered in wood-patterned Formica and generally in good shape, except that the doors featured the once-popular “pushopen/push-lock” latch design. That system drove more than a few guests screaming to the living room in frustration. (The door had to be pushed into the latch with just the right touch or the latch would not spring closed—a Zen thing that not everyone could master.) There were no “soft-close” drawers or doors, no sliding organizers, no fancy inserts—just solid cabinets and countertops with a few more years left in them; they were donated to Habitat for Humanity in Newburgh for reuse. We had several objectives in redesigning the 190-square-foot kitchen layout: •improve the flow of the kitchen/den and create a functional gathering space by removing a wall so that the spaces became unified; •replace the aging appliances and plumbing fixtures with modern, more efficient units; •eliminate the redundant sliding door in the kitchen leading out to the deck and replace it with a window; •maintain harmony with the overall design and aesthetic of the rest of the house. Replacing the appliances was the easy part—we shopped by Consumer Reports. Unfortunately, most of the makes and models we went shopping for were not carried by local independent stores. (One exception and an important adddition was a highefficiency fan/vent to eliminate odors. We found a quiet, unobtrusive stainless Faber unit that vents straight up and out at Michael’s Appliances in Middletown.) Purchasing appliances that we could afford was our one concession to big-box retail. On the flip side, we generally shopped the sales for the best prices and the retailers held the units until we were ready for them. The transformative point of the project was enlarging what had been only an 18-inch pass-through between the kitchen and den into a “walk through” (reinforced with a new header and supporting post). Suddenly, JUNE
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Everyone who entered the kitchen at one time or another had an opinion about what should go where, and why.
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the size of the kitchen seemed to double, and the den, which we (fondly) had referred to as “the cave” because of the lack of light and limited access, became an inviting and useful space. That decision meant repositioning the sink, refrigerator and dishwasher plumbing, but since most of the kitchen subfloor was pulled up to inspect for old leak damage (there was none), rerouting the plumbing was not a long or difficult task. Determining the final overall layout of the kitchen proper was a long (and sometimes contentious) process— everyone who entered the kitchen at one time or another had an opinion about what should go where, and why. Ultimately, we listened patiently to everyone and each other, then waited to see which ideas held up over time. If there is a tipping point in a kitchen renovation project, it most likely is with the cabinets—if upgraded appliances cost more than anticipated, the difference often will come out of the cabinet budget. This was one area, however, where we would not compromise. (Why should we remove high-quality cabinets that
have lasted well over 40 years and replace them with junk?) We wanted plywood boxes with flat fronts and book-matched walnut. Period. (We’re surrrounded by walnut trees.) Many of the independent kitchen design firms we consulted were quite helpful with ideas and suggestions, but none offered the right combination of design, construction or price, and some obviously were more in the cabinet sales business rather than kitchen design. As it turned out, we found our answer in a local (Newburgh) cabinet maker, whose quality construction and design details met every one of our requirements—at a price very close to what semi-custom, factory-made units would have cost. Our visits to Porcelanosa in Ramsey, N.J., led us to the company’s proprietary countertop material, Krion®, an acrylic composite that is non-porous, non-burnable and naturally antibacterial. Fabricated as a one-piece unit (no corner seam), the low-maintenance surface is smooth and uniform. It was exactly what we were looking for, but it wasn’t cheap. Our commitment to adaptive reuse entered the project when, at the last moment, demolition revealed something we hadn’t considered: Adapt the unused laundry room space that intruded into the kitchen area. A shallow closet was created on the hall side; the remaining space was turned into an alcove in the kitchen to fit an additional run of cabinets with a small sink. The area would be ideal for prep, bar and as a transition area between rooms. With advice from a theatrical lighting expert friend, the overall lighting was improved with arrays of dimmable LED “high hats” in the den and kitchen. (This was not in the original renovation plan, so aside from the cost of the additional fixtures, there were switches, boxes and wiring needed. What had been scheduled as a two-day job became a four-day job.) The flooring is Marmoleum®, a modern adaptation of linoleum. A linseed-oil based product that is naturally bacteriostatic, it’s resilient JUNE
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(widely used in industrial and commercial applications) and easy on the feet (though only one-tenth of an inch thick, it has a “bounce” not present in tile or wood). Here was a lesson learned: If something can go wrong for any reason, it will. Though we decided on the flooring early on, we didn't place the order until close to when we needed it. Of course, it was “out of stock.” (Translation: a fourweek delay.) Finally, we replaced the old appliances with new, Energy Star®rated models where available (stoves are not rated this way). The Samsung refrigerator is a four-door, four-section model—one section can be used as either a refrigerator unit or freezer as needed. The dishwasher, also star rated, is an ultra-quiet Kenmore. The heavy duty Insinkerator® unit also is an ultra-quiet model. (Though we are die-hard composters, the vintage Insinkerator® that came with the house won us over.) One nifty watersaving device new to us is the battery-operated “touch stream” unit that turns the water on or off simply by touching any metal part of the unit. One debate started on day one and lasted through the entire project: what kind of stove/oven would be best. This is one kitchen element about which literally everyone seems to have an opinion. Since propane already was piped to the house, we had the option to convert to a propane cooktop with either a propane or electric oven. On the other hand, modern technology has advanced to the point where induction—electro-magnetic stimulation of metal to create heat—is both affordable and practical. It took a leap of faith and the recommendation of several chefs, but in the end, technology won. The Samsung® induction range/ convection oven unit so far has proved to be a joy to work with. Highly efficient induction converts 90 percent of the energy it uses to heat, while conventional electric heating coil units convert only about 50 to 60 percent of the energy they use to heat; gas units are lucky to hit 40 percent efficiency. The efficiency translates to 48
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We made no pro no plans to get o a dozen bags of N
ovision for a microwave, and have one. (Anybody out there want half Newman’s Own popcorn?)
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very fast startup time and an even, extremely controllable heat. The downside is that pots must be iron or steel to work on the stove—no aluminum or copper need apply. (Luckily, the majority of our pots are cast iron or had steel bottoms, though we still need a kettle.) The convertible single/double convection oven is likewise efficient and practical. So far, our short-term evaluation is excellent for both stovetop and oven. We made no provision for a microwave, and have no plans to get one. (Anybody out there want half a dozen bags of Newman’s Own popcorn?) Aside from a few minor details, the kitchen is finis. Once the trigger was pulled, demo to final alcove sink installation was about eight weeks. We’ve decided to live with the space for a while before we commit to building an island; a stainless steel worktable is a servicable substitute for the moment. Overall the bright, airy space receives positive grades— and it’s got us back cooking together again.
What did we learn? First, like W.C. Fields, if we had our lives to live over, we’d live them over a liquor store.
What did we learn? First, like W.C.
Fields, if we had our lives to live over, we’d live them over a liquor store. Barring that, we learned that not every decision—especially if it’s about kitchen cabinets, floor color or appliance finish—is life altering. (Almost anything can be changed if you can afford it.) We learned to not let ourselves be rushed into a decision, even though it could mean altering the construction schedule—it’s worth waiting to get what you want. We learned that even though a competent general contractor may be in charge of everything, a project like this involves a significant amount of personal time devoted to decisions, planning and oversight. We learned that lighting matters, and that switch placement should be carefully planned. We learned that others’ questions can be instructive, but, more importantly, we learned that nobody has all the answers. Finally, we learned that, after all, it’s just a kitchen. We like the way it turned out. In the end, that’s what matters. 4 50
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General Contractor Alan Sproul (Goshen) Cabinetmaker Jon Reichert/Box Designs (Newburgh) Lighting Consultant Deke Hazirjian (Cornwall)
Flooring Mountainview Floor Covering (New Paltz) Countertops Porcelanosa (Ramsey, NJ) Sinks N&S Supply (Wappingers)
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FARMS, FOOD & MARKETS
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o c a l ly s o u r c e d m e at s , fresh Hudson Valley produce and handcrafted artisanal products are ready to be picked, packed and prepped for a sensational summer meal. Find a farmers’ maket near you. Enjoy the freshest in local summer fare—check out our “What’s in Season” chart on page 64.
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2016 farmers’ markets
COLUMBIA COUNTY Copake Hillsdale 9140 Rt 22 May 21–Oct 29, Sat 9–1 copakehillsdalefarmersmarket.com Hudson Farmers Market 6th St & Columbia Apr 16–Nov 19, Sat 9–1 hudsonfarmersmarketny.com
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Kinderhook Corner of Hudson & Broad St May 7–Oct 8, Sat 8:30–12:30 kinderhookfarmersmarket.com
Valatie 3211 Church St Jun 5–Nov 20, Sun 9–1 valatiefarmersmarket.com
Philmont 116 Main St May 29–Oct 16, Sun 10–2 pbinc.org/revitalization
DUTCHESS COUNTY
Upstreet Farmers Market Between Warren & Park Pl May 25–Oct 26, Wed 4–7 facebook.com/upstreetmarket 2016
Amenia 4988 Rt 22 Year-round, Sat 10–2 ameniafarmersmarket.com
photos courtesy pleasantville farmers ' market and the valley table
Arlington 123 Raymond Ave Jun 2–Oct 27, Thu 3–7 arlingtonhasit.org/happenings/ farmers-market/ Beacon 8 Red Flynn Dr Apr 24–Nov 20, Sun 10–3 beaconfarmersmarket.org Fishkill Main St Plaza, 1004 Main St May 26–Oct 27, Thu 9–3 facebook.com/Village-of-Fishkill314356031926611 Hyde Park 4390 Rt 9 Jun 4–Oct 29, Sat 9–2 hydeparkfarmersmarket.org Milan 20 Wilcox Cl May 27–Sep 30, Fri 3–7 milanfarmersmarket.com Millbrook 3263 Franklin Ave May 28–Oct 29, Sat 9–1 millbrooknyfarmersmarket.com Millerton Between Railroad Plz & N Central St May 31–Oct 29, Sat 9–1 millertonfarmersmarket.org Hudson Valley Farmers Market Greig Farm, 229 Pitcher Ln Year–round, Sat 10–3 greigfarm.com/hudson-valleyfarmers-market.html Pawling Charles Colman Bld Jun 18–Oct 1, Sat 9–1 pawlingfarmersmarket.org Rhinebeck 61 E Market St May 8–Nov 20, Sun 10–2 rhinebeckfarmersmarket.com Taste NY Store & Farmers Market at Todd Hill 4640 Taconic State Pkw N, Poughkeepsie Jun 3–Oct 16, Fri & Sun 1:30–5:30 ccedutchess.org/taste-ny-at-todd-hill/ todd-hill-farmers-market june
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GREENE COUNTY Catskill 344 Main St, Jun 3–Oct 14, Fri 4–7 catskillcommunitycenter.org/ catskill-farmers-market
ORANGE COUNTY Cornwall Town Hall Lawn, 183 Main St Jun 1–Nov 1, Wed 12–6 cornwallny.gov/departments/ farmers-market Florida 190 N Main St Jun 14–Oct 2, Tues 10–4 facebook.com/ floridanyfarmersmarket Goshen Village Square, Main St & S Church St May 20–Oct 28, Fri 10–5 goshennychamber.com/ goshenfarmersmarket2015.php Middletown Corner of Erie Way & Cottage St May 28–Oct 29, Sat 8–1 facebook.com/ MiddletownFarmersMarket Monroe Millpond Park Way, Commuter Parking Lot Jun 5–Nov 13, Sun 9–2 villageofmonroe.org/ farmersmarket.html Newburgh – Healthy Orange Broadway between Landers St & Johnston St Jul 7–Oct 25, Tue 10–2 Newburgh Mall 1401 Rt 300, Parking Lot Jul 16–Oct 15, Sat 10–2 facebook.com/newburghmall Port Jervis Farmers Market Square, Corner of Pike and Hammond St Jun 25–Oct 29, Sat 9–1 hudsonvalleybounty.com/listing/ port-jervistri-state-farmers-market 58
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Pine Bush Crawford Cultural Center, Corner of Main St & New St May 28–Oct 15, Sat 9–2 pinebushfarmersmarket.com Tuxedo Tuxedo Train Station, 240 Rt 17 Jun 18–Nov 19, Sat 9–2 tuxedofarmersmarket.com Warwick Valley South Street Parking Lot, Corner of South St & Bank St May 8–Nov 20, Sun 9–2 warwickvalleyfarmersmarket.org West Point Town of Highlands Municipal Parking Lot on West Point Highway Jun 12–Nov 6, Sun 9–1 facebook.com/West-Point-Townof-Highlands-Farmers-Market217461788363902/
PUTNAM COUNTY Brewster Wells Park, 98 Oak St Jun 11–Nov 19, Sat 9–2, Wed 9–2 brewsterfarmersmarket.com Cold Spring Garrison at Boscobel House and Gardens, 1601 Rt 9D May 7– Nov 19, Sat 8:30–1:30 csfarmmarket.org Putnam Valley 729 Peekskill Hollow Rd Jun 24–Sept 2, Fri 3–6:30 putnamvalleyresidents.com
ROCKLAND COUNTY Haverstraw 40 New Main St & Maple Ave Jun 12– Oct 16, Sun 9–1 voh-ny.com/farmers.htm Nyack Main Street Parking Lot, Depew & South Broadway Apr 7–Nov 23, Thu 8–2 nyackchamber.org/category/ farmers-market
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Piermont M&T Bank Parking Lot, 527 Piermont Ave May 22–Nov 20, Sun 9:30–3 facebook.com/DowntoEarthMarket Spring Valley Memorial Park, 1 Veterans Dr Jul 1–Nov 25, Wed 8:30–3 Suffern Corner of Orange Ave and Wayne Ave May 7–Oct 29, Sat 8:30–1pm suffernfarmersmarket.wordpress.com
SULLIVAN COUNTY Barryville 3385 Rt 97, behind The River Market May 14–Oct 29, Sat 10–1 barryvillefarmersmarket.com Callicoon The Callicoon Farmers’ Market Callicoon Creek Park, A. Dorrer Dr May 1–Oct 30, Sun 11–2 sullivancountyfarmersmarkets.org Liberty Kansas and Leonard St May 7–Oct 29, Sat 7–12pm historicdowntownliberty.org/ farmers-market Monticello 211 E Broadway Year-round, Fri 7–7 facebook.com/ Monticellofarmersmarket Rock Hill 223 Rock Hill Dr June 4–Sept 24, Sat 10–1 rockhillfarmersmarket.com Roscoe Off Rt 17 on NY 206, Niforatos Field May 8–Oct 30, Sun 10–2 scva.net/business/roscoefarmers-market
ULSTER COUNTY Ellenville Barthels Farm Market: 8057 Rt 209 Apr 1–Dec 25, Everyday 8–6 facebook.com/barthels.farmmarket 60
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Gardiner Green Market, Rt 45/55, on Wallkill Valley Rail Trail next to Pasquale’s Pizzeria Jun 5–Oct 2, Sun 11–3 facebook.com/pages/Gardiner-GreenMarket-147800581902736 Kingston Wall St, between Main St & John St May 7–Nov 21, Sat 9–2 kingstonfarmersmarket.org Kingston YMCA Farm Project Jun 2–Oct 27 kingstonymcafarmproject.org Kingston YMCA, 507 Broadway Thurs 3:30–6 Bike-Powered Mobile Farm Stand Jun 14–Sep 13, Tues 3–6 Milton Heart of the Hudson Valley, Cluett Schantz Park, 1801–1805 Rt 9W Jun 25–Oct 8, Sat 9–2 hhvfarmersmarket.com Rosendale 408 Main St, behind Rosendale Theatre Jun 5–Oct 30, Sun 10–2 facebook.com/RosendaleFM Saugerties 115 Main St May 28–Oct 29, Sat 10–2 saugertiesfarmersmarket.com Woodstock 6 Maple Ln June 1–Oct 19, Wed 3:30–dusk woodstockfarmfestival.com
WESTCHESTER COUNTY Bronxville Stone Place at Paxton Avenue May 7–Nov 19, Sat 8:30–1 bronxvillefarmersmarket.com Cortlandt 2267 Crompond Rd Apr 1–Dec 24, daily, 7-close (call 917-739-0686 for closing time) cortlandtfarmmarket.com
伀倀䔀一 㤀䄀䴀ⴀ 㘀倀䴀Ⰰ 㜀 䐀䄀夀匀 䄀 圀䔀䔀䬀Ⰰ 夀䔀䄀刀ⴀ 刀伀唀一䐀 䠀伀倀䔀圀䔀䰀䰀 䨀唀一䌀吀䤀 伀一Ⰰ 一夀 䘀䤀 匀䠀䬀䤀 䰀䰀䘀䄀刀䴀匀⸀ 䌀伀䴀 㠀㐀㔀⸀ 㠀㤀㜀⸀ 㐀㌀㜀㜀
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New Rochelle Huguenot Park, in front of New Rochelle High School Jun 3–Nov 18, Fri 8:30–2:30 downtoearthmarkets.com
Chappaqua Metro-North Station, Allen Pl May 7–Nov 19, Sat 8:30–1 chappaquafarmersmarket.org Croton-on-Hudson Parking lot at Municipal Pl, off of Rt 9A May 8–Dec 4, Sun 9–2 downtoearthmarkets.com Hartsdale Metro-North station, 1 E Hartsdale Ave Jun 6–Nov 21, Sat 8–3 Hastings 7 Maple Ave Jun 4–Nov 19, Sat 8:30–1:30 hastingsfarmersmarket.org
Pleasantville Memorial Plaza (next to Metro-North station) April 2–Nov 19, Sat 8:30–1 pleasantvillefarmersmarket.org
Katonah John Jay Homestead, 400 Jay St Jun 11–Oct 29, Sat 9–1 johnjayhomestead.org Katonah Muscoot Farm, 51 Rt 100 May 8–Nov 13, Sun 9:30–2:30 muscootfarm.org Larchmont Metro-North parking deck off of Chatsworth Ave Apr 23–Dec 17, Sat 8:30–1 downtoearthmarkets.com
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Ossining Corner of Spring St & Main St May 21–Dec 17, Sat 8:30–1 downtoearthmarkets.com Peekskill Bank St between Park St & Main St Jun 4–Nov 19, Sat 8–2 peekskillfarmersmarket.com
Irvington 101 Main St Jun 5–Nov 20, Sun 9–1:30 irvmkt.org
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New Rochelle Downtown Boulevard 1 Library Plaza June 4–Sep 24, Sat 9–2pm newrochellegrandmarket.com
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Rye Parking lot on Theodore Fremd Ave May 22–Dec 6, Sun 8:30–2 downtoearthmarkets.com South Salem 1202 Rt 35 Year-round, Sat 9–1 facebook.com/ GossettsFarmersMarket Tarrytown/Sleepy Hollow (The TaSH) Patriots Park on N Broadway May 28–Nov 19, Sat 8:30–2 tashfarmersmarket.org Tuckahoe Depot Square, at the Metro-North station Jun 5–Nov 27, Sun 10–4 tuckahoe.com White Plains Court St between Martine Ave & Main St Apr 27–Nov 23, Wed 8–4 cityofwhiteplains.com
Pound Ridge 22 Westchester Ave Year-round, hours by appt. (914) 764-3006 facebook.com/PoundRidgeOrganics
Yonkers Groundwork Hudson Valley, Van der Donck Park across from Yonkers train station Jun 3–Oct 28, Fri 12–5 groundworkhv.org
Pound Ridge 65 Westchester Ave Apr 17–Nov 27, Sun 11–3 (914) 764-0015
Yonkers St. John’s Parish, 1 Hudson St Jul 7–Nov 17, Thurs 8–5 stjohnsfarmersmarket.blogspot.com
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WHAT’S FRESH, WHEN
What’s fresh, when APRIL
MAY
JUNE
JULY
AUG
SEPT
OCT
NOV
DEC
BEANS BEETS BROCCOLI CABBAGE CANTALOUPE CARROTS CAULIFLOWER CELERY CORN CUCUMBERS EGGPLANT KALE LETTUCE ONIONS PEAS PEPPERS POTATOES PUMPKINS RADISHES RHUBARB SPINACH SQUASH TOMATOES TURNIPS WATERMELON
Source: Cornell Cooperative Extension
1 0 2
Ho me g r o wnSe a s o n a l Pr o d u c e• Ho me ma d e é• Lo c a l &Go u r me t Ba k e dGo o d s &Ca f Fi n eGi f t s , Ho meDe c o r & Fo o d s• Ar t Ga l l e r y&Fr a meSh o p Ac c e s s o r i e s• Op e nwe e k d a y s 8 AM– 6 PM, Cl o s e dTu e s d a y s Op e nSa t u r d a y s &Su n d a y s AM– PM 8 5 1 9 0An g o l aRd . , Co r n wa l l ( 8 4 5 )5 3 4 4 4 4 5 J o n e s Fa r mI n c . c o m
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dining on the farm Bradley Farm New Paltz Summer dinners June 12, July 10, Aug 7. raybradleyfarm.com Crown Maple Madava Farms, Dover Plains Open Sat–Sun year round from 11–5. crownmaple.com
Heather Ridge Farm Preston Hollow Bees Knees Café, year round café lunch served 11–3. heather-ridge-farm.com Katchkie Farm Kinderhook Annual dinner July 23, reservations required. katchkiefarm.com
Pennings Farm Market Warwick Open daily with limited menu Tuesdays til 3, special events as scheduled. penningsfarmmarket.com Soons Orchard New Hampton Next dinner June 3rd, reservations required. soonsorchards.com
county fairs Orange County Fair OC Fairgrounds July 20–31 Candy apples, popcorn, cotton candy, ferris wheels, merry-go-rounds and various forms of high-flying, stage-stomping and family friendly entertainment provide the quintessential summer fair night. Ticket prices vary.
Ulster County Fair UC Fairgrounds August 2–7 Local agriculture/ horticulture, animal husbandry, entertainment, shows, vendors and exhibits come together for five days of family fun. Tickets available August 2. $15 pay one price. ulstercountyfair.com
Farm-to-table dining doesn’t always mean bringing the food off the farm. Some farms are welcoming diners to visit and enjoy a freshly prepared meal. Whether they’re partnering with local chefs or manning the kitchen themselves, Hudson Valley farmers are bringing diners fresh, local, seasonal meals prepared on-site using their own meat and produce. Dining on the farm is all about the food—how it’s grown, who nurtures it, how it’s cooked. It usually emphasizes simple dishes that emphasize natural flavors. Brunches and dinners may be limited to 30 people eating at picnic tables surrounded by the hills and fields that are the source of the meal, or could involve an open invitation for visitors to peruse the farm and experience authentic “farm to table” dining. You just can’t get any closer to the roots of our food culture. Stone and Thistle Farm East Meredith Jun–Oct, Sat dinner, Sun brunch, reservations required. stoneandthistlefarm.com Taliaferro Farms New Paltz Monthly dinners, third Saturday of the month, starting June 18–October, reservations required. taliaferrofarms.com
Twin Star Orchards New Paltz Pavilion offering wood-fired pizza and burgers Friday, Saturday, Sundays 11–7. twinstarorchards.com
photo above courtesy stone and thistle farm
With summer comes the undeniable excitement of fair season—the sticky sweetness of cotton candy, the smell of hay from draft horse pulls, the screams of delight from children on the merry-go-round, the savory scent of food truck fare, and the giddiness that comes from a day at the local county fair. The Hudson Valley hosts a number of renowned county fairs filled to the brim with thrilling rides, impressive agricultural and livestock demonstrations, indulgent fried food, live entertainment and family-friendly fun all summer long. Pack up the car and prepare yourself for a full day (and night) of fun-filled excitement.
Little World’s Fair Grahamsville Fairgrounds August 19-21 Spend a day at the longest running independent fair in New York State. Bring some friends and enjoy carnival rides, live performances, horse shows and milking demonstrations. Under 5 and over 75 free, $2 children 5-11, $6 adults. grahamsvillefair.com
Dutchess County Fair DC Fairgrounds August 23–28 Join nearly half a million fairgoers at the second largest county fair in New York State. Over 144 acres house thousands of farm animals, agricultural exhibits and horticultural displays, plus free shows, attractions and entertainment. $15 adults, $10 senior citizens/military, children under 12 free. dutchessfair.com june
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Columbia County Fair CC Fairgrounds August 31–September 5 Demolition derbies, freestyle motocross, monster tractor pulls, and authentic rodeo competitions provide for an exciting night of down-and-dirty summer fun. Multi-platinum country band Lonestar headlines. columbiafair.com
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EATING BY THE SEASON
M
ilk is the first
food everybody in the world eats. It has been called the perfect food, the universal ingredient. Standing alone, straight up, unaltered, it is a healthful, naturally satisfying drink; add a little heat and a little sour, and magic happens. Milk and butter play essential roles in nearly every cuisine and culture in the world, despite the fact that they have relatively little flavor of their own. Few, if any, other ingredients can claim so much versatility and significance in both sweet and savory dishes. Dairy remains one of the largest and most significant sectors of the agricultural economy—locally, regionally and nationally. In this country, most of the milk we consume comes from cows raised in crowded confinement, treated with growth hormones to force production and with antibiotics to counter the diseases of confined living. In many other cultures, to own even a single cow is a sign of great wealth, and the animals that give their milk are revered and even worshipped for their generosity.
Fortunately, Hudson Valley consumers have ready access to a fresh, local supply of milk from cows raised on small family farms in healthy conditions— grazing on pasture without the need for growth hormones or antibiotics. Though the Hudson Valley has lost over 70 percent of its dairy farms and 60 percent of its dairy cows over the last four decades, dairy is still critical, dominating the region’s agricultural economy. The good news for Hudson Valley dairy farms: While milk consumption across the nation has declined, cheese and yogurt consumption is on the rise. What follows is a small celebration of one of the Hudson Valley’s signature products. Dairy takes center stage in these simple summer dishes. Ricotta, paneer and crème fraiche are easy to make and add rich deliciousness to accompanying dishes. For more milk recipes, including crème fraiche and ice cream, go to ValleyTable.com/recipes.
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HOMEMADE PANEER CHEESE NAVJOT ARORA Ingredients 2 gallons milk 16 ounces vinegar makes about 2 pounds Optional Ingredients for Masala Paneer Cheese 1 teaspoon whole cumin seeds half sprig mint, chopped small bunch cilantro, chopped Method 1. Bring milk to a boil on a stove in a heavy bottom pot, stirring continuously so the milk does not caramelize and stick to the bottom of the pot. 2. Add vinegar to the boiling milk. Turn off heat. (Note: For masala paneer, add the cumin seeds and the fresh herbs before adding vinegar.) 3. Separate the milk curds and whey with a strainer or a colander. 4. Place curds on top of a large piece of cheesecloth and tie it into a pouch. 5. Let the pouch hang for 10 minutes until most of the water drains. (The soft cheese at this stage can be used in many dishes, like paneer bhurji—an Indian/Pakistani breakfast dish in which paneer is scrambled with savory vegetables and spices—as well as stuffed breads.) 6. Flatten the pouch on a worktable and place a flat weight on top to extract excess moisture from the paneer cheese. Allow to sit for 6 hours. 7. Peel off cheesecloth and remove cheese. Keep paneer refrigerated for up to 5 days. It can also be frozen.
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A soft, spongy cheese, made by curdling milk with something sour, such as vinegar. Sometimes called Indian cottage cheese or farmer’s cheese, paneer is popular in Indian cuisine (5 percent of India’s milk was used to make paneer in 2000). The cheese doesn’t melt when heated, making it a versatile addition to soups, salads and main dishes.
PANEER TIKKA SALAD NAVJOT ARORA Ingredients 1 pound paneer Saundria marinade (to coat paneer) 2 ounces red and green peppers, julienned 2 ounces tomato, julienned 2 ounces onion, sliced 1/2 ounce ginger, julienned sprig cilantro, chopped 2 green chiles, julienned juice of 1 lemon 1 teaspoon chaat masala 1 teaspoon vegetable oil pinch of salt pinch red chili powder pinch roasted cumin powder Method Preheat oven to 500˚F 1. Cut paneer lengthwise and coat with Saundria marinade. 2. Cook in a 500˚F oven for 5 to 8 minutes. 3. Remove from the oven and julienne the paneer into long, matchstick-like strips. 4. In a large bowl, mix the raw julienned vegetables, cooked paneer, ginger, cilantro, lemon juice, oil and dry spices. Serve the dressed salad on a bed of lettuce. Chutney Masala 76 Main St, Irvington chutneymasala.com
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Tim Storrs (left); Jamie Parry (right)
HOMEMADE RICOTTA JAMIE PARRY Ingredients 2 quarts whole milk 1 cup heavy cream 1/2 teaspoon salt 4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice additional equipment: a large sieve, fine-mesh cheesecloth and a bowl to collect whey makes about 2 cups Method 1. Line the sieve with a layer of cheesecloth and place it over a large bowl. 2. In a 6-quart heavy pot over moderate heat, slowly bring milk, cream and salt to just below boiling. Stir to prevent scorching. 3. Add lemon juice and reduce heat to low. Simmer, stirring constantly, until the mixture curdles, about 2 minutes. 4. Let sit until there is a complete separation, about 30 minutes. 5. Pour the mixture into the lined sieve and let it drain 1 hour. (Save the whey for either pickling or baking.) 6. Chill the ricotta, covered. Ricotta will keep in the refrigerator 2 days.
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photos by eva deitch
At chef/owner Jamie Parry’s roadside restaurant the crème fraîche, ricotta and labneh, are always homemade, and why not, when it’s so easy to ferment milk and cream. This particular ricotta toast recipe has been “in [his] pocket for a long time.” Seasonal ingredients like corn (freshly shucked from the cob) and ripe cherry tomatoes are combined with refreshing lemon zest and herbs and spices for a light summer variation.
RICOTTA TOAST JAMIE PARRY Ingredients 4 thick slices of grilled sourdough 4 tablespoons olive oil handmade ricotta 2 ears of grilled corn, shucked off cob 1 bunch of ramps, thinly sliced a few sliced cherry tomatoes salt & pepper to taste zest of half a lemon a pinch or two of chili flakes 2 sprigs of marjoram serves 2 Method 1. Brush the sourdough bread generously with olive oil. Grill or toast in a hot skillet. 2. Spoon ricotta on toast. 3. In a medium bowl, combine corn, cherry tomatoes, ramps, lemon zest, chili flakes and marjoram. Season with salt and pepper to taste. 4. Spoon the mixture on top of ricotta. Garnish with more zest, marjoram and pepper. Another Fork In The Road 1215 Rt 199, Milan anotherforkintheroad.com
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LOCALLY GROWN
drinking it raw
P
at freedom hill
r o p o n e n t s o f r aw m i l k g e n e r a l ly
acknowledge that pasteurization may eliminate bad bacteria and make milk a little safer to drink. But they also argue that the heat applied during pasteurization kills beneficial bacteria and enzymes that make raw milk a nutritionally superior and bioactive food. They claim that raw milk tastes better, improves gastrointestinal health and reduces susceptibility to common viruses and allergens. Close to 99 percent of the milk consumed in America is pasteurized. To kill any pathogens that might be present, raw milk is subjected to a high temperature (usually 161° F) for a short time. The process dates back at least to the mid-
text and photos by keith stewart nineteenth century and the work of the French chemist and microbiologist, Louis Pasteur. Pasteurization became widespread in this country in the 1920s, but it wasn’t until 1987 that it became mandatory after a ruling by the FDA that effectively made it illegal to ship raw milk across state lines. Today, most—but not all—people accept pasteurization as a standard practice and do not question its efficacy. Regardless of which side of the fence you come down on in this debate (if you’re curious, you can find plenty to read online, both pro and con), one thing is certain: Raw milk is gaining in popularity across the U.S., and though federal law makes it illegal to transport
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I’m not a milk drinker (though I am fond of cheese), but I decided it was time to take a closer look at what my generally robust workforce seems to be so enthusiastic about.
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raw milk across state lines, many individual states have changed their laws to make it legal to sell this age-old food, though usually with some restrictions. Currently, all but 13 states permit some form of raw milk sales for human consumption. In New York, for example, on-farm sale of raw milk direct to consumers is legal for farms that have obtained a special license from the New York State Department of Agriculture and Markets and submit to periodic inspections and testing of the milk for harmful bacteria. Off-farm sale of raw milk in retail stores is not legal. In Pennsylvania, on- and offfarm retail sales are permitted. In New Jersey, a state with relatively few dairy farms, all raw milk sales remain illegal. Over the past half dozen years, many of the workers on my organic produce farm have taken to drinking raw milk purchased from a local dairy about 20 minutes from us in the
heavy equipment operator for the county, he and his wife, Julie, decided to change course. In 2007, they returned to the farm where Rick was born (and which is still owned by his father), and set about creating Freedom Hill Farm—a small, raw-milk dairy with fewer cows than Rick was used to and a strong sense of community and Christian ministry. (Members of their church donated money, time and vital skills, such as carpentry and plumbing.) Rick and Julie are partners not just in marriage but also in their farm enterprise: Rick takes care of the cows while Julie helps with milking and handles the retail end of their business. A total of 60 Jersey cows live on the farm. Each one has a name and a recognizable personality. Thirty of them are milked twice daily; the other 30 are either calves under two years of age or “dry cows” that stop lactating before giving birth. All of the animals spend
Town of Otisville (Orange County). So far, to the best of my knowledge, none of my crew has gotten sick from it. I’m not a milk drinker (though I am fond of cheese), but I decided it was time to take a closer look at what my generally robust workforce seems to be so enthusiastic about. Rick Vreeland, 62, has been around cows most of his life. For 30 years, he ran a large conventional dairy but he found the work was impersonal, exhausting and brought him little satisfaction—he says in the end it just didn’t “feel right.” After a hiatus of several years as a
most of their time outside on pasture. For eight months, their primary food is grass; in the winter months, they eat hay and a small amount of pelletized feed. Many remain healthy and productive for 12 years or more. The Vreelands’ operation is in stark contrast to many of the dairy farms across the country. In the last few decades, dairy farms in America have gotten a lot bigger. The bucolic green fields dotted with small herds of grazing cows often displayed on television and billboards advertise a false reality. Forty years ago, 50-cow farms were common and produced most of the milk
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Americans consumed; today, 500-cow operations are the norm. (And many are much larger than that: One of the largest dairy operations in the country—Fair Oaks Farm, located 75 miles north of Chicago—milks 30,000 cows every day. In California and other western states, the number of 10,000- and 20,000-cow operations is on the increase, while small, family-run dairy farms have become a rarity.) Cows on these megafarms are essentially units of production and are treated as such. Milking begins soon after they reach the age of two. Usually they spend the remainder of their short lives indoors in gigantic, airplane hangar-sized barns or, when not being milked, in confined feedlots. They live in cramped, often unsanitary conditions, surrounded by their own manure and with no place to sit down. To enhance milk production, they are given growth hormones and fed a high-protein diet of corn, soy and animal byproducts (none of which is a natural food for cows or other ruminants, for that matter, whose multiple stomachs are designed to draw nutrition from grass and other leafy plants). After three or four years of being pushed to provide ever greater amounts of milk, these “factory farm” cows are sick, worn out and disposed of. (It almost goes without saying, but drinking unpasteurized milk from these animals is probably not a good idea.) The Vreelands have been selling raw, nonhomogenized milk, as well as yogurt and kefir, for nine years. At first, a handful of people showed up to sample the new offerings, but very quickly the pace of sales increased,
mostly through word-of-mouth. Today, the Vreelands have a thousand steady customers, many of whom travel from Westchester, Putnam, Dutchess, northern New Jersey and even New York City to pick up their milk of choice (and often say hello to the cows while they’re at it). The more distant customers are generally members of buying clubs—they take turns driving to the farm to get their weekly supply, then distribute to fellow members in their neighborhoods. An average of 125 gallons of raw milk is sold on the farm every day, along with 30 quarts of plain yogurt and 30 quarts of kefir. Prices are reasonable: A gallon of milk in a glass mason jar sells for $5, plus a deposit on the returnable jar; yogurt and kefir go for $4.50 per quart. The storage life of the milk, if kept refrigerated, is around 10 days; the yogurt and kefir can keep for a few weeks. All sales are on the honor system. Most customers call ahead to place orders that are set aside for them in large refrigerated cabinets. Each order, whether for an individual or a buying club, is identified by name; the customer drops an envelope containing cash and a note (with name and items purchased) into a box. Rick told me that in nine years, the system has failed only twice—once was an honest mistake, the other was regrettable. With a broad smile, he hastens to add that he would gladly give milk to any of his customers who could not afford to buy it. “What we’re trying to do here,” he says, “is go back in time to the way things used to be.” 4
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INDEX TO ADVERTISERS
PAGE 12 Adams Fairacre Farms / adamsfarms.com 90 Another Fork in the Road / 845.758.6676 / anotherforkintheroad.com 64 Apple Bin Farm Market / 845.339.7229 / theapplebinfarmmarket.com 33 Aroma Osteria / 845.298.6790 / aromaosteriarestaurant.com 11 Baja 328 / 845.838.BAJA / baja328.com 89 Barb’s Butchery / 845.831.8050 / barbsbutchery.com 54 Barber’s Farm Distillery / 518.827.5454 / 1857spirits.com 83 Beacon Natural Market / 845.838.1288 / beaconnaturalmarket.com 51 Beacon Pantry / 845.440.8923 / beaconpantry.com 33 Benjamin Steakhouse / 914.428.6868 / benjaminsteakhouse.com 7 Blu Pointe / 845.568.0100 / blu-pointe.com 84 Café Amarcord / 845.440.0050 / cafeamarcord.com 88 Café Mio / 845.255.4949 / miogardiner.com 94 Caffe Macchiato / 845.565.4616 / addressyourapetite.com C2 California Closets / 855.336.9590 / californiaclosets.com 24 Canterbury Brook Inn / 845.534.9658 / canterburybrookinn.com 25 Cathryn’s Tuscan Grill / 845.265.5582 / tuscangrill.com 25 Clock Tower Grill / 845.582.0574 / clocktowergrill.com 61 Coach Farm / 518.398.5325 / coachfarm.com 40, C4 Cosimo’s / cosimosrestaurantgroup.com 87 County Fare / 845.297.3300 / countyfareny.com 74 Craft 47 / 845.360.5253 / craft47.com 51 Crave Restaurant & Lounge / 845.452.3501 / craverestaurantandlounge.com 10 Culinary Institute of America / 845.471.6608 / ciarestaurants.com C3 Daily Planet Diner / 845.452.0110 / dailyplanetdiner.com 90 Daughters Fare & Ale / 845.835.8365 / daughtersfareandale.com 60 Dennings Point Distillery / denningspointdistillery.com 52 Dish Bistro & Wine Bar / 845.621.3474 / dishmahopac.com 11 Dogwood Bar / 845.202.7500 / dogwoodbar.com 34 Dutchess Biercafe / 845.440.7747 / thedutchessbiercafe.com 41 Ella’s Bellas / 845.765.8502 / ellasbellasbeacon.com 3 Ethan Allen / 845.565.6000 / ethanallen.com 24 Exposures Gallery / 845.469.9382 / theexposuresgallery.com 24 Farm to Table Bistro / 845.297.1111 / ftbistro.com 61 Fishkill Farms / 845.897.4377 / fishkillfarms.com 26 Fresh Company / 845.424.8204 / freshcompany.net 93 Generation Yonkers / 914.377.6797 / generationyonker.com 89 Gino’s Restaurant / 845.297.8061 / ginoswappingers.com 90 Glynwood / glynwood.org 62 Gossett’s Farmers’ Market / 914.763.3001 / gossettbrothersnursery.com 26 Gourmet to Go / 845.677.5400 / gourmettogony.com 4 Grano Focacceria / 845.666.7007 / granofocacceria.com 63 Hahn Farm / 845.266.3680 78 Harvest on Hudson / 914.478.2800 / harvesthudson.com 90 Harry’s Hot Sandwiches / 845.765.8111 / harrysbeacon.com 63 Harvest Spirits / 518.758.1776 / harvestspirits.com 54 Haven Coffee & Espresso Bar / 845.561.9685 / havencoffee.net 58 Hawthorne Valley Farm / 518.672.7500 / hawthornevalleyfarm.org 81 HealthQuest / 800.421.1220 / health-quest.org 57 Hemlock Hill / 914.737.2810 / hemlockhillfarm.com 79 Henry’s at the Farm / 845.795.1500 / buttermilkfallsinn.com/henrys 11 The Hop / 845.440.8676 / thehopbeacon.com 23 Hudson Havens / hudsonhavens.com 88 Hudson Street Cafe / 845.534.2450 / hudsonstreetcafe.com 81 Hudson Valley Federal Credit Union / 845.463.3011 / hvfcu.org 59 Hudson Valley Fresh / hudsonvalleyfresh.com 60 Hudson Valley Sausage Company / 845.691.9312 94 Hyde Park Brewing Company / 845.229.8277 / hydeparkbrewing.com 04 Il Barilotto / 845.897.4300 / ilbarilottorestaurant.com 94 Irving Farm Coffee Roasters / irvingfarm.com
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PAGE 33 J&J Gourmet / 845.758.9030 / jandjgourmet.com 64 Jones Farm / 845.534.4445 / jonesfarminc.com 2 Judelson, Giordano & Siegal / 845.692.9500 / jgspc.com 84 Le Express / 845.849.3365 / lexpresshv.com 26 Leo’s Ristorante & Bar / leospizzeria.com 63 Love Apple Farm / 518.828.5048 / loveapplefarm.com 54 Lowland Farm / 212.867.6376 / lowlandfarm.com 63 McEnroe Organic Farm / 518.789.4191 / mcenroeorganicfarm.com 10 Marbled Meat Shop / 845.265.2830 / marbledmeatshop.com 94 Mexicali Blue / 845.298.8226 / mexicali-blue.com 72 Mill House Brewing Company / 845.485.BREW / millhousebrewing.com 73 Mohegan Lake Audi / 914.528.8076 / moheganlakeaudi.com 74 Mother Earth’s / motherearthstorehouse.com 2 N&S Supply / nssupply.com 74 Nina / 845.344.6800 / nina-restaurant.com 63 Nostrano Vineyards / 845.795.5473 / nostranovineyards.com 58 Obercreek CSA / obercreekfarm.com 34 Orange County Farmers Markets / orangetourism.org/farms C3 Palace Diner / 845.473.1576 / thepalacediner.com 93 Pamal Broadcasting / pamal.com 53 Pamela’s Traveling Feast / pamelastravelingfeast.com 64 Pawling Farmers Market / 845.855.0633 / pawlingfarmersmarket.com 25 Perch / 845.236.3663 / perchmarlboro.com 54 Pine Bush Farmers’ Market / 845.217.0785 / pinebushfarmersmarket.com 86 Poughkeepsie Ice House / 845.232.5783 / pkicehouse.com 59 Quattro’s Poultry Farm & Market / 845.635.2018 66 Red Barn Produce / 845.691.7428 C3 Red Line Diner / 845.765.8401 / dineatredline.com 72 Restaurant 1915 / 845.786.2731 x.1915 42 RiverMarket Bar & Kitchen / 914.631.3100 / rivermarketbarandkitchen.com 53 Riverview Restaurant / 845.265.4778 / riverdining.com 72 Roundhouse, The / 845.765.8369 54 Sabellico Greenhouses / 845.226.5943 / sabellico.com 42 Shawangunk Wine Trail / gunkswine.com 62 Sprout Creek Farm / 845.485.8438 / freshcompany.net 10 Stock Up / 845.202.7400 / stockupbeacon.com 63 Stoutridge Vineyard / 845.236.7620 / stoutridge.com 1 Sullivan County Visitors Association / 800.882.CATS / scva.net 87 Sunflower Natural Foods Market / 845.679.5361 / sunflowernatural.com C3 Table Talk Diner / 845.849.2839 / tabletalkdiner.com 54 TaSH Farmers’ Market / tashfarmersmarket.org 57 TasteNY Store at Todd Hill / 845.849.0247 85 Terrapin Restaurant / 845.876.3330 / terrapinrestaurant.com 57 Thompson-Finch Farm / 518.329.7578 / thompsonfinch.com 41 Thyme / 914.788.8700 / thymerestaurant.net 88 Utensil / 845.202.7181 / utensilkitchenware.com 66 Valley at the Garrison / 845.424.3604 x39 / thegarrison.com 41 The Vault / 845.202.7735 / thevaultbeacon.com 88 Village Tea Room / 845.255.3434 / thevillagetearoom.com 9, 34 Warren Kitchen & Cutlery / 845.876.6208 / warrenkitchentools.com 79 Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery / wvwinery.com 86 West Main Bar & Kitchen / 845.297.0510 / westmainkitchenandbar.com 93 Westchester County Tourism / 800.833.9282 / westchestertourism.com 60 Whitecliff Vineyard / 845.255.4613 / whitecliffwine.com 26 Wildfire Grill / 845.457.3770 3 Williams Lumber & Home Center / 845.876.WOOD / williamslumber.com 24 Woody’s Farm to Table / 845.534.1111 / woodysfarmtotable.com 2 The Would / 845.691.9883 / thewould.com 73 Xaviars at Piermont / 845.359.7007 / xaviars.com 52 The Yankee Barbecue & Beer Garden / theyankeebbq.com
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DIRECTORY
ART
B R E W E R I E S
Newburgh Art Supply 5 Grand St, Newburgh (845) 561-5552; newburghartsupply.com Mon-Thur 10-6; Fri 11-7; Sat 10-6; Closed Sun See, feel and experience quality art materials in one of Newburgh’s restored landmarks in the heart of the Washington Market neighborhood. Your local source for essential creative supplies for the student, professional and enthusiast. Newly renovated and stocked! AUTO
Mohegan Lake Audi 1791 E Main St, Mohegan Lake (914) 528-8076; moheganlakeaudi.com Authorized Audi & Volkswagen retailer. Why buy anywhere else? B A K E R I E S
The Alternative Baker 407 Main St, Rosendale (845) 658-3355; lemoncakes.com Open 7am Thur-Mon; Closed Tue-Wed Twenty years of small-batch, scratch, handmade all-butter baked goods has been our promise. We also offer gluten-free and other allergyfriendly options, plus made-to-order sandwiches for breakfast, lunch or a light supper. All-vegan vegetable soups in season, hot mulled New York cider, an array of JB Peel coffee and Harney teas, artisanal drinks, plus our award-winning Belgian hot chocolate. Special-occasion cakes made to order. Seasonal desserts change through the year. Unique wedding cakes for a lifetime’s treasure. All “Worth a detour”—(NY Times). Truly “Where Taste is Everything.” Ella’s Bellas 418–420 Main St, Beacon (845) 765-8502 Mon & Wed 8–5; Thu–Sat 8–7; Sun 9–4; closed Tue Ella’s Bellas believes that an indulgence should taste like an indulgence regardless of our dietary restrictions. We specialize in gluten-free products, but we promise you won’t know the difference.
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Hyde Park Brewing Co. 4076 Albany Post Rd, Hyde Park (845) 229-8277; hydeparkbrewing.com Mon & Tue 4–10; Wed & Thu 11–10; Fri & Sat 11–midnight; Sun 11–9 C A T E R I N G
Fresh Company PO Box 187, Garrison (845) 424-8204; freshcompany.net At our kitchen one hour north of Manhattan in the Hudson Highlands, we gather great local and imported ingredients for events of all sizes and pocketbooks, from grand affairs to drop-off parties. We emphasize the freshest, finest ingredients, because great food is the spark that ignites a convivial gathering. Executive chef Shelley Boris draws inspiration from cooking styles from around the world. Her distinct, warm style is reflected in meals that encourage hospitality and leisure at the table. Gourmet to Go (845) 677-5400; gourmettogony.com Since 1992, a full-service off-premise caterer offering a wide range of locations. Our fine reputation is based on years of consistency and superb service. We specialize in weddings, corporate events, cocktail parties, holiday parties, outdoor barbecues and even boxed lunches. Creative cuisine, exceptional presentation and professional service, taking every event from start to finish flawlessly. J&J Gourmet 1 E Market St, Red Hook (845) 758-9030; jandjgourmet.com Tue–Thu 7:30–5; Fri–Sat 7:30–8 Serving Red Hook, Rhinebeck, Poughkeepsie, Hyde Park and surrounding areas in Dutchess County, J&J offers high-quality and precise catering prepared with the freshest ingredients from local farmers and specialty food producers.
Adding to her custom crafted cuisine with exceptional service, Pamela Resch, owner of Pamela’s Traveling Feast, announces her acquisition of the Bird & Bottle Inn. This historic, charming, and spirited 1761 colonial inn features four guest rooms with expansive grounds and permanent tent structure for weddings and private events. Offering Special Wine Paring Dinners several times a month, please call for dates and information. Weddings, private events, corporate events and holiday parties. Terrapin Restaurant Catering & Events 6426 Montgomery St, Rhinebeck (845) 889-8831; terrapincatering.com Enjoy the same high-quality ingredients and service that you know at Terrapin Restaurant anywhere in the Hudson Valley. Catering events of all types and sizes, Terrapin prepares custom menus for every event, using local, organic ingredients whenever possible. Contact Catering Director Hugh Piney. C O F F E E
Haven Coffee & Espresso Bar 5462 Rt 9W, Newburgh (845) 561-9685; havencoffee.net Tue–Fri 6:30–5; Sat 7–4 Serving locally sourced coffee and fresh squeezed juices and smoothies, with savory sandwiches and homemade soup, quiche, cakes and pies. Irving Farm Coffee Roasters 23 Reagan Rd, Millerton (518) 789-3276; irvingfarm.com A quintessentially New York Company, at Irving Farm Coffee Roasters we know what the country means to the city—and vice versa. In 1999, Irving Farm established its farmhouse roastery in the town of Millerton. Now Irving Farm supplies carefully selected, handcrafted coffees to three cafes in the same metropolis, as well as our own small-town coffee house in Millerton. D I N E R S
Pamela’s Traveling Feast & Pamela’s Bird and Bottle 1123 Old Albany Post Rd, Garrison (845) 424-2333 pamelastravelingfeast.com
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Daily Planet 1202 Rt 55, Lagrangeville (845) 452-0110; dailyplanetdiner.com
Palace Diner 194 Washington St, Poughkeepsie (845) 473-1576; thepalacediner.com Red Line Diner 588 Rt 9, Fishkill (845) 765-8401; dineatredline.com Table Talk Diner 2519 South Rd (Rt 9), Poughkeepsie (845) 849-2839; tabletalkdiner.com D I S T I L L E R I E S
Dennings Point Distillery 10 N Chestnut St, Beacon denningspointdistillery.com Open Fri–Sun Denning’s Point Distillery crafts the finest artisanal spirits available including Viskill Vodka, Beacon American Whiskey and Denning’s White Rye Whiskey. We choose only the highest quality grains from New York state farms and strive to create classic spirits of unique character and depth in our unique, urban production space. G A R D E N I N G
Sabellico’s Greenhouses & Florist 33 Hillside Lake Rd, Hopewell Junction (845) 226-5943; sabellico.com Open year-round Grows most of what they sell and offers the healthiest plants around, advice on growing plants and a selection of organic veggie and herb plants. Depending on the season: a wide selection of organic veggie plants and herbs, along with premium trees, shrubs and roses. Fullservce florist shop on premesis. H O M E
California Closets 16 Saw Mill River Rd, Hawthorne (914) 592-1001; californiaclosets.com Showroom open Mon–Fri, 9–5; Sat 10–3. A pioneer in custom closets and personalized home storage. Let us help you transform the organization of your space, and design a solution that will fit your budget and your home’s aesthetic.
Ethan Allen Rt 32, 94 North Plank Rd, Newburgh (845) 565-6000; ethanallen.com Mon–Fri 9–5:30; Sat 10–5:30; Sun noon–5. The Bells have been offering the finest in-home furnishings since 1955, and have expanded their store to offer the new, up-to-date Ethan Allen look, featuring country, casual, contemporary, and traditional furniture and accessories. Their staff offers complimentary interior design service and in-home house calls. Hudson Havens, Inc. (914) 598-2363; hudsonhavens.com Home concierge services and fine interior design. N&S Supply, Inc. 205 Old Rt 9, Fishkill (845) 896-6291; nssupply.com Your one-stop resource for all plumbing, heating and HVAC needs, including specialty products designed and manufactured to meet your lifestyle needs; the latest innovative products, including cutting-edge bathroom technology from remote flushing toilets to hands-free faucets. Six locations: Fishkill, Brewster, Kingston, Catskill, Hudson and Danbury.
Williams Lumber 6760 Rt 9, Rhinebeck (845) 876-9663 34 Blommer Rd, Tannersvile (518) 589-5200 2424 Rt 44, Pleasant Valley (845) 605-3520 908 Rt 82, Hopewell Junction (845) 221-2751 9-11 E Market St, Red Hook (845) 758-5615 317 Kyserike Rd, High Falls (845) 687-7676 3679 Rt 9, Hudson (518) 851-3641 4246 Albany Post Rd, Hyde Park (845) 698-1004; williamslumber.com The largest independent home center in the area.
Mon–Sat 9:30–5:30; Sun 11–4:30 The Hudson Valley’s complete source for professional kitchen knives and tools, commercial quality cookware, bakeware, pocketknives and woodcarving tools. We stock the largest selection of name-brand cutlery in the region at prices well below retail. Knife sets, knife blocks and carving boards. Professional knife sharpening while you wait. M A R K E T S
Utensil 480 Main St, Beacon (845) 202-7181; utensilkitchenware.com Mon, Wed–Sat 11–6, Sun 11–5 A practical and affordable kitchenware shop offering cookware, bakeware, gadgets and specialty items for the home or professional chef.
Adams Fairacre Farms 1560 Ulster Ave, Kingston (845) 336-6300 1240 Rt 300, Newburgh (845) 569-0303 765 Dutchess Tnpk, Poughkeepsie (845) 454-4330 160 Old Post Rd, Wappinger (845) 632-9955 adamsfarms.com Open daily A family-owned farm market/garden center. A cornucopia of fresh produce, meats, fish, deli, and prepared foods. Featuring Hudson Valley products, a great selection of the best local cheese, meat, produce and more.
Warren Kitchen & Cutlery 6934 Rt 9, Rhinebeck (845) 876-6208; warrenkitchentools.com
Barb’s Butchery 69 Spring St, Beacon (845) 831-8050; barbsbutchery.com
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Mon–Fri 11–7:30; Sat 10–6; lunch Tue–Sat; closed Sun & Mon Your new neighborhood butcher shop providing local, Hudson Valley–raised meat and poultry. Practicing nose-totail butchery, we are proud to offer fresh and smoked meats, specialty cuts, charcuterie, house-made stocks, craft bacon and more. Beacon Pantry 382 Main St, Beacon (845) 440-8923; beaconpantry.com Mon–Sat 7–8; Sun 7–6 Providing artisan food and artisan service to Beacon and beyond, Beacon Pantry features more than 50 varieties of cut-to-order domestic and imported cheese and charcuterie. Large selection of local, Italian and hard-to-find French pantry items, grass-fed local meats and dairy. Stumptown coffee, unique chocolates, fine pastries and desserts. Serving European-style sandwiches and cheese plates. Catering for any size event. Hudson Valley Sausage Company 85 Vineyard Ave, Highland (845) 691-9312 Fri noon–6; Sat 9–5; Sun 10–2 All meats processed in-house at our USDA certified facility. Local pork, fresh-cut or dry-aged beef, smoked and fresh hams, cured and smoked meats,
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charcuterie. Many varieties of Italian and German sausage. Sausage-making classes. Traditional and BBQ catering for all occasions. Wild game processing. Marbled Meat Shop 3091 Rt 9, Cold Spring (845) 265-2830; marbledmeatshop.com A neighborhood butcher just outside the village of Cold Spring, providing sustainably raised meat, American farmstead cheese, local bread and groceries. Small lunch menu available daily. Stock Up 29 Teller Ave, Beacon (845) 202-7400; stockupbeacon.com Open 9–8 daily A locally sourced delicatessen from the owners of Marbled Meat Shop with house-made cold cuts, BBQ, rotisserie chicken, fresh salads and sandwiches and a selection of microbrews, cider, wine, coffee and espresso drinks. TasteNY Store at Todd Hill Taconic State Pkwy, Lagrange Located 10 miles north of I-84 and 1 mile south of Rt 55 (845) 849-0247; ccedutchess.org Open Mon, Wed, Thu, Sat 10–7; Fri 10–8; Sun 11–7; closed Tue An asset along the Taconic State Parkway, find a vast array of foods and products grown or made in the Hudson Valley. Outdoor farmers’ market open Jun–Oct: Fri 3–7, Sun 2–6. N A T U R A L
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Beacon Natural Market 348 Main St, Beacon (845) 838-1288; beaconnaturalmarket.com Mon–Sat 9–7; Sun 10–5 Lighting the way for a healthier world. Featuring organic prepared foods, deli and juice bar, organic and regional produce, meats and cheeses. Open since 2005, proprietors L.T. and Kitty Sherpa are dedicated to serving the Hudson Valley with a complete selection of products that are good for you and good for the planet, including an extensive alternative health department. Nutritionist on staff. Catering available. Mother Earth’s 300 Kings Mall Ct, Kingston (845) 336-5541 249 Main St, Saugerties (845) 246-9614 1955 South Rd, Poughkeepsie (845) 296-1069 motherearthstorehouse.com Open daily Offering the finest natural foods, bulk spices, herbs, vitamins, supplements and organic produce. The valley’s best organic, hot and cold takeout at our Kingston and Poughkeepsie locations.
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Sunflower Natural Market 75 Mill Hill Rd, Woodstock 24 Garden St, Rhinebeck (845) 679-5361; (845) 876-0798 sunflowernatural.com Mon–Fri 8–9; Sat 9–9; Sun 10–7 The area’s most complete natural foods market, featuring certified organic produce, organic milk, cheeses and eggs, a wide range of bulk organic grains and nuts, non-irradiated herbs and spices, plus vitamins, homeopathic and body care products. P A S T A
La Bella Pasta 906 Rt 28, Kingston (845) 331-9130; lbpasta.com Mon–Fri 10–6; Sat 11–3; closed Sun Fresh pasta made locally using only the finest ingredients. Large variety of ravioli (including vegan), tortellini, pastas and sauces. We deliver our product to fine restaurants, gourmet shops and caterers throughout the Hudson Valley. Call for product list and samples. Located on Rt. 28 West between Kingston and Woodstock. R E S T A U R A N T S
Another Fork in the Road 1215 Rt 199, Milan (845) 758-6676; anotherforkintheroadmilan.com Breakfast Thu–Mon 9–3; Dinner Thu–Mon 5–9, Fri–Sat 5–9:30 Eat something you have never had before or have a burger. Craft beers and wines. Aroma Osteria 114 Old Post Rd, Wappingers Falls (845) 298-6790; aromaosteriarestaurant.com Lunch Tue–Sat 11:30–2:30; Dinner Tue–Thu 5–10, Fri–Sat 5–11, Sun 4–9 Voted Best Italian Restaurant by Hudson Valley magazine; Poughkeepsie Journal awards four stars. A romantic, relaxed atmosphere with an elegant cocktail bar in a beautiful setting. Here, rustic Italian cuisine is served with a unique and extensive selection of Italian wines (many available by the glass). Catering for all occasions available on or off premises. Baja 328 328 Main St, Beacon (845) 838-BAJA; baja328.com Lunch & dinner Tue–Thu 11–10, Fri–Sat 11–11, Sun noon–8 Main Street’s newest hot spot, Baja 328 offers the finest authentic Southwestern food couples with 110-plus tequilas, the largest selection in the area.
Benjamin Steakhouse 610 Hartsdale Rd, White Plains (914) 428-6868; benjaminsteakhouse.com Mon–Thu 4–10; Fri–Sat 4–11; Sun 12–10 Serving the highest quality USDA prime beef, with every cut carefully dry-aged in specially handcrafted aging boxes for 28 days. Delectable non-red meat dishes available, too, including our extravagant seafood platter. Blu Pointe 120 Front St, Newburgh (845) 568-0100; blu-pointe.com Lunch & dinner Tue–Thu 11:30–9; Fri–Sat 11:30–10; Brunch Sun 11–2; Dinner Sun 1–8 With something for everyone, this restaurant on the Hudson River features a farm-to-table menu offering fresh seafood and prime rib, a raw bar station, local craft beers and spirits and an outside, riverside bar with live music. Café Amarcord 276 Main St, Beacon (845) 440-0050; cafeamarcord.com Lunch & dinner Tue–Thu noon–10; Fri–Sat noon–11; Sun noon–9 Creative New American cuisine with Italian undertones, served in a warm atmosphere. Enjoy an artisanal cocktail at the onyx bar before having dinner in the bistro-style dining room or on our Main Street terrace. Bring colleagues for a casual lunch, or a date for a romantic night out. Café Mio 2356 Rt 44/55, Gardiner (845) 255-4949; miogardiner.com Breakfast & lunch Wed–Sun 8:30–4:30 A popular, casual café overlooking the Shawangunk Mountains. We are proud to offer the freshest local fare, drawing from our many surrounding farms— something that is at the core of our food philosophy. A varied selection of wines and craft beers. Caffe Macchiato 99 Liberty St, Newburgh (845) 565-4616; addressyourappetite.com Breakfast & lunch Tue–Fri 9–3; Sat–Sun 9–4 Located in the historic district of Newburgh, Caffe Macchiato is a European-style café offering an all-day breakfast and lunch along with a fairtrade coffee beverage selection. The menu focuses on seasonal items and chef/owner Jodi Cummings highlights several local farms and producers on the menu. All desserts and pastries are baked from scratch in-house.
Canterbury Brook Inn 331 Main St, Cornwall (845) 534-9658; canterburybrookinn.com Dinner Tue–Thu 5–9; Fri–Sat 5–9:30 Hosts Hans and Kim Baumann offer fine Swiss continental cuisine featuring veal, duck, chicken, Schnitzel, pasta, filet mignon, fresh fish and much more. Enjoy a fabulous dessert while sipping a frothing cappuccino or espresso. We specialize in both on- and off-premise catering. Outdoor brookside dining. Reservations suggested. Cathryn’s Tuscan Grill 91 Main St, Cold Spring (845) 265-5582; tuscangrill.com Lunch daily noon–4:30; Dinner daily 4:30–10:30; Brunch Sun noon–3; Flight Night Tue 7–9:30 Follow the red brick walk off Main Street through a landscaped garden into a romantic dining scene. Choose from an array of Northern Italian dishes such as pulled rabbit with fresh pappardelle pasta, seedless grapes and grappa sauce; and grilled partridge with blackberries, pearl onions and pancetta with a red wine sauce. Reasonably priced wines. Small private party room is a memorable, festive Tuscan accent. Clock Tower Grill Kitchen & Bar 512 Clock Tower Dr, Brewster (845) 582-0574; clocktowergrill.com Lunch & dinner Tue–Thu noon–9, Fri noon–11; dinner Sat 5–11, Sun 3–9 Set in a renovated barn, the atmosphere is casual yet sophisticated; the menu “rustic American” with many ingredients drawn from area farms. Cosimo’s Restaurant Group Cosimo’s On Union 1217 Rt 300, Newburgh (845) 567-1556; fax (845) 567-9246 Cosimo’s Middletown 620 Rt 211 East, Middletown (845) 692-3242 Cosimo’s Poughkeepsie 120 Delafield St, Poughkeepsie (845) 485-7172 Cosimo’s Woodbury Rt 32, Central Valley (845) 928-5222 cosimosrestaurantgroup.com Lunch & dinner daily Casual trattoria-style dining with some of the world’s best wines. Old-style Italian cuisine with a New World twist. Daily specials, pasta, fish and meat dishes. Distinctive cocktail lounges, a unique wine cellar for private dinner parties and beautiful catering facilities.
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County Fare 2652 E Main St, Wappingers Falls (845) 297-3300; facebook.com/countyfareny Mon-Fri 11-8; Sat 11-2; Sun 11-1:30 Locally sourced comfort food paired with craft brews on tap, a well-curated wine list and craft cocktails. Local and regional beers, as well as national and global craft brewers. Great service and outdoor seating available. Craft 47 47 W Main St, Goshen (845) 360-5253; craft47.com Lunch & dinner Tue–Thu noon–10, Fri–Sat noon–midnight; Sun noon–10 Kick back, relax and sample the best of the Hudson Valley at Craft 47. We offer small-plate American tapas, craft wine and 12 craft beers on tap, with even more in the cooler. Crave Restaurant & Lounge 129 Washington St, Poughkeepsie (845) 452-3501; craverestaurantandlounge.com Dinner Wed–Sat 4–10, Sun 4:30–9; Brunch Sun 11:30–3 Chef Ed Kowalski serves contemporary food with modern twists in a romantic and intimate setting located directly under the Walkway Over The Hudson. The Culinary Institute of America 1946 Campus Dr (off Rt 9), Hyde Park (845) 471-6608; ciachef.edu/restaurants The world’s premier culinary college offers exceptional global cuisine in its award-winning restaurants: American Bounty Restaurant (845) 451-1011; americanbountyrestaurant.com Celebrates the seasons and products of the Hudson Valley. The Bocuse Restaurant (845) 451-1012; bocuserestaurant.com Reimagines classic French cuisine using modern techniques. Ristorante Caterina de’ Medici (845) 451-1013; ristorantecaterinademedici.com Features authentic regional Italian dishes and Al Forno Trattoria, a casual stop for rustic dishes. The Apple Pie Bakery Café (845) 905-4500; applepiebakerycafe.com Offers sumptuous baked goods and café fare. Daughters Fare & Ale 7466 S Broadway, Red Hook (845) 835-8365; daughtersfareandale.com Lunch & dinner Wed–Thu 10–7, Fri 10–9, Sat 10–8, Sun 10–6 Five-star restaurant quality food in an 18-seat cafe setting. Eat in or take out fresh goods featuring local ingredients, and grab a craft beer, wine or specialty
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coffee. Catering is also available. Don’t miss Burger Fridays from 9–5pm when we shift our focus to burgers. Dish Bistro & Wine Bar 947 S Lake Blvd, Mahopac (845) 621-3474; dishmahopac.com Mon-Thu 4-9; Fri–Sat 3-10; closed Sun Chef Peter A. Milano adds his own flair to both classic and modern cuisine, with dishes focused on local seasonal produce. Dogwood Bar & Restaurant 47 E Main St, Beacon (845) 202-7500; dogwoodbar.com Mon-Thu 5-12; Fri 4-2; Sat–Sun 3-2 Off the beaten path, Beacon's local gem. Inviting atmosphere. Great locally sourced food. Fine selection of 16 craft beers and specialty cocktails. Eclectic music and live performances. Family and vegetarian friendly. No TVs. The Dutchess Biercafe 1097 Main St, Fishkill (845) 440-7747 Lunch & dinner Mon, Wed 11:30–9, Thu 11:30–10, Fri–Sat 10:30–11; lunch Sun 11:30–4 New to Fishkill, our historic setting transports patrons to a quaint, Belgian cafe pouring the best in Belgian beer and Belgian-style ales. Our menu blends Belgian favorites with comfort food— moules frites, chicken and waffles, unique burger and daily specials. Farm To Table Bistro 1083 Rt 9, Fishkill (845) 297-1111; ftbistro.com Mon-Thu 11:30-9:30; Fri–Sat 11:30– 10; Sun 11:30–9 The focus is always finding the best the world has to offer: the best produce, wine, beef and certainly, the best fish and seafood. Patio dining available. Frida’s Bakery & Cafe 26 Main St, Milton (845) 795-5550; fridasbakeryny.com Breakfast & lunch daily 7–5 An extension of Buttermilk Falls Inn & Spa, Frida’s offers artisan breads, pastries and coffees as well as housemade breakfast and lunch options. Gino’s Restaurant 1671 Rt 9, Wappingers Falls (845) 297-8061; ginoswappingers.com Lunch & dinner Tue–Thu 11:30–9, Fri– Sat 11:30–10; Sun 1–9 Serving the Hudson Valley since 1984. Traditional southern Italian cuisine in a casual environment. Only the freshest ingredients used to prepare your favorite veal, chicken, seafood and pasta dishes. Catering on- and off-premise.
Grano Focacceria 3182 Rt 9 Suite 114, Cold Spring (845) 666-7007; granofocacceria.com Open daily 11-10 A popular family friendly concept in Italy comes stateside, featuring a menu centered on focaccia topped with favorite ingredients, such as broccoli raab and sausage, clams and hot peppers; ricotta and parmesan with fresh arugula--available by the slice or the sheet. Harry’s Hot Sandwiches 449 Main St, Beacon (845) 765-8111; harrysbeacon.com Tue-Fri 8-4; Sat–Sun 11-4; Closed Mon Sandwich heaven in the heart of Beacon, serving classic sandwiches with a twist. Now serving breakfast all day. Henry’s At Buttermilk Falls 220 North Rd, Milton (845) 795-1500; henrysatbuttermilk.com Lunch Fri–Sat 11:30–3; Dinner Sun– Thu 5–9; Brunch Sun 11–3 Local comes alive at this bucolic Inn & Spa, where the main ingredients are sourced from local producers and purveyors. An inventive menu features a fresh selection of large and small plates from casual burger and fries to refined New American dishes. Enjoy a pre-dinner stroll through the organic gardens and orchards or a drink overlooking the Hudson River and sweeping lawns. Al fresco dining available. The Hop: Craft Beer & Artisanal Fare 458 Main St, Beacon (845) 440-8676; thehopbeacon.com Lunch & dinner Mon, Wed–Thu noon–10, Fri–Sat noon–midnight, Sun noon–10 Share our love of finely crafted beers and passion for house-made charcuterie, local cheeses and seasonal fare. Come enjoy a meal with us and then take a look at the amazing beer selection and specialty food items we have available for retail. Seating at the Chef’s Table is also available by reservation. Hudson Street Café 237 Hudson St, Cornwall-on-Hudson (845) 534-2450; hudsonstreetcafe.com Breakfast Mon–Fri 6–11:30; lunch Mon–Fri 11–3; brunch Sat 7–3, Sun 7–2 Good food served here. Breakfast includes hourmase corn and oat bran pancakes, huevos rancheros and scones baked fresh every morning. Lunches inclue a turkey brie panini and housemade empanadas. Delicious dinners with comfort classics like Donna’s meatloaf and buttermilk fried chicken, as well as seasonal specials. Custom catering available.
Il Barilotto 1113 Main St, Fishkill (845) 897-4300; ilbarilottorestaurant.com Lunch Mon–Sat 11–2:30; dinner Mon–Thu 5–10, Fri–Sat 5–11 Blending the old with the new, Eduardo Lauria, chef-owner of Aroma Osteria, transformed an historic brick building in the heart of Fishkill to a trattoria and wine bar. The fare is Italian peasant with a contemporary flair. The selection of regional wines from Italy—available by the glass or flight—is extensive. Catering on- and off-premises. Le Express 1820 New Hackensack Rd, Wappingers Falls (845) 849-3565 Lunch & dinner Mon–Thu 11–10, Fri 11–11, Sat 4–11 A modern French American bistro that focuses on using foods from local Hudson Valley purveyors. Our goal is to have fun and create a small, special place that will provide you with a memorable dining experience. Leo’s Ristorante Rt 9D, Wappingers Falls (845) 838-3446 22 Quaker Ave, Cornwall (845) 534-3446 1433 Rt 300, Newburgh (845) 564-3446 leospizzeria.com Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat 11–10; Sun 2–9 A family favorite since 1981, Leo’s offers traditional classic Italian dishes, pizza, hot/cold subs, pasta, veal, chicken and appetizers. Daily specials and catering for all occasions whether in our location or yours. Great food served in a comfortable and relaxed atmosphere. Mexicali Blue 87 Main St, New Paltz (845) 255-5551 1571 Rt 9, Wappingers Falls (845) 298-8226; mexicali-blue.com Sun–Thu 11–9; Fri–Sat 11–10 Using fresh, natural ingredients, Mexicali Blue serves up delicious Southwestern and Californian cuisine in a fun, colorful setting. Tacos and burritos top the menu. Mexican beer and margaritas rule the drinks list. The Mill 46 Vassar Rd, Poughkeepsie (845) 214-0000; millpk.com Lunch & dinner Tue–Thu 11:30–9, Fri–Sat 11:30–10; dinner Sun 4–9; brunch Sun 11–4 Executive chef and Hudson Valley native Mark Haslam features fresh seasonal and local artisanal foods. Our casual and upbeat atmosphere coupled
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with our knowledgeable staff, acoustic entertainment and cozy indoor and outdoor dining make us the destination that serves all of our guests the dining experience they deserve. Mill House Brewing Company 289 Mill St, Poughkeepsie (845) 485-2739; millhousebrewing.com Lunch & dinner Mon, Wed–Sun; closed Tue Offers a warm, historic and visually appealing setting, with casual, yet professional service, food cooked from as close to the source as possible, and artfully crafted ales. Nina 27 W. Main St, Middletown (845) 344-6800; nina-restaurant.com Lunch Mon–Sat 11:30–2:30; dinner Mon–Sun from 5; brunch Sun 9:30–2 New York City–trained chef Franz Brendle brings an elegant flair to classic American cuisine. Features include filet mignon Roquefort, shrimp asparagus risotto and seafood specials. Nice selection of wines in various price ranges. Friendly staff, cozy décor. Hearty Sun brunch. Pamela’s on the Hudson 1 Park Place, Newburgh (845) 562-4505 Dinner Thur-Sun 4-til close pamelasonthehudson.com Contemporary American bistro and bar on the Hudson River. A warm, cozy and casual atmosphere with live music every evening and Happy Hour food and drink specials Thursday-Saturday 4:30pm-6:30pm. Pamela’s features an expansive wine by the glass menu as well as nightly dinner specials. Catering is available for weddings, corporate events, private events, and holiday parties. Perch 1 King St., Marlboro (845) 236-3663 Lunch & Dinner; Closed Mon New from the owner of Cathryn’s Tuscan Grill in Cold Spring, offering a globally inspired, locally sourced menu. The eclectic list of wine and beer represents the best of the Hudson Valley. Poughkeepsie Ice House 1 Main St, Poughkeepsie (845) 232-5783; pkicehouse.com Sun–Wed 11:30–10; Thu–Sat til 11 The Poughkeepsie Ice House is the anchor for the Queen Bee City. The historic Hudson Valley waterfront brick building features old world charm and walking distance to the Poughkeepsie Train Station and the Walkway over the Hudson. Public boat docking and
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waterfront dining are available. The food is casually sophisticated with seasonal and local inspired menus. Restaurant 1915 55 Hessian Dr, Bear Mountain (845) 786-2731 ext. 1915; visitbearmountain.com Thu–Sat 5–9, Sun 11–9 Located at the historic Bear Mountain Inn, enjoy a seasonal menu in a beautiful lodge setting. RiverMarket Bar & Kitchen 127 W Main St, Tarrytown (914) 631-3100; rivermarketbarandkitchen.com Lunch & dinner daily Innovative, epicurean hub featuring a restaurant, bar, wood-fired pizzeria, wine and spirits store, and farmers’ market. Riverview Restaurant 45 Fair St, Cold Spring (845) 265-4778; riverdining.com Lunch Tue–Fri noon–2:30, Sat noon–4; dinner Tue–Fri 5:30–9:30, Sat 5–10; Lunch & dinner Sun noon–9 Contemporary American cuisine with beautiful river views. Seasonally inspired menus featuring market fresh seafood, brick oven pizza and creative daily specials. No credit cards; checks OK. Reservations suggested. The Roundhouse 2 E Main St, Beacon (845) 765-8369; roundhousebeacon.com Lunch Wed–Fri 11:30–3; dinner Wed– Sat 5–10; brunch Sat–Sun 11–3 Serving a locally inspired, seasonal menu, the restaurant offers stunning waterfall views in its Rockwell Group– designed dining room. The adjoining lounge features a menu of small plates, craft beer, and artisanal cocktails. With Executive Chef Brandon Collins at the helm, both the restaurant and lounge provide gorgeous setting for enjoying an exceptional meal or distinctive drink. Terrapin Restaurant & Red Bistro 6426 Montgomery St, Rhinebeck (845) 876-3330; terrapinrestaurant.com Lunch & dinner daily 11:30–midnight; dining room daily 5–9pm From far-flung origins, the world’s most diverse flavors meet and mingle here. From elements both historic and eclectic comes something surprising, fresh and dynamic: dishes to delight body and soul. Choose fine dining in Terrapin’s dining room or casual fare in Red Bistro & Bar. From good burgers and quesadillas to wild salmon and local filet mignon. Terrapin’s local organic and authentic menu satisfies all.
West Main Bar & Kitchen 2710 W Main St, Wappingers Falls (845) 297-0510; westmainkitchenandbar.com Lunch Mon–Sat 11:30–3, Sun 12–3; Dinner Mon–Thu, Sun 4–9, Fri–Sat 4–10 A friendly new American-style restau-
Xaviar’s Restaurant Group Chef-owner Peter Kelly offers his signature service and exceptional cuisine to four locations. Critics agree: Dining in the valley will never be the same. Xaviar’s at Piermont 506 Piermont Ave, Piermont (845) 359-7007 Lunch Fri, Sun noon–2; dinner Wed– Fri 6–9, Sat seatings 6 & 9, Sun 5–8 Freelance Café & Wine Bar 506 Piermont Ave, Piermont (845) 365-3250 Lunch Tue–Sun noon–3; dinner Tue–Thu 5:30–10, Fri 5:30–10:30, Sat 5:30–11, Sun 5–10 Restaurant X & Bully Boy Bar 117 North Rt 303, Congers (845) 268-6555 Lunch Tue–Fri noon–2:30; dinner Tue–Thu 5:30–10, Fri 5:30–10:30, Sat 5–11, Sun 5–8; brunch Sun seating 1pm X2O Xaviars on the Hudson 71 Water Grant Way, Yonkers (914) 965-1111 Lunch Tue–Fri noon–2; dinner Tue–Fri 5:30–10, Sat 5–10, Sun 5–9; brunch Sun noon–2
Taste what everyone’s talking about Your neighborhood purveyor of local Hudson Valley-raised meats Nose-to-Tail · Grass & Grain Finished Angus · Specialty Cuts Charcuterie · Smoked Meats · House-made Stocks · Craſt Bacon
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The Would 120 North Rd, Highland (845) 691-9883; thewould.com Dinner Tue–Sat 5–11 Dine amid the apple orchards. A long history of warm hospitality and innovative New American cuisine makes for a popular destination. CIA-trained chefs show dedication to great ingredients and seasonality for sophisticated fare. For a lighter option, try the bistro menu.
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The Village Tearoom 10 Plattekill Ave, New Paltz (845) 255-3434; thevillagetearoom.com Breakast, lunch & dinner Tues–Sat 8–9, Sun 8–8 The Village Tea Room is a unique gathering place, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner as well as a variety of teas. Tantalizing cakes and cookies. Organic honey, pot pies and roast chicken. Zagat survey says “Irish ex-pat Agnes Devereux has a real winner.”
Woody’s Farm to Table 30 Quaker Ave, Cornwall (845) 534-1111; woodysfarmtotable.com Open Wed–Mon 11:30–8:30; closed Tue A “new old-fashioned” burger joint located in a restored 1910 building in picturesque Cornwall. Casual, family place offering fast, simple meals for people on the go using fresh, wholesome ingredients with a local emphasis.
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Valley at the Garrison 2015 Rt 9, Garrison (845) 424-3604; thegarrison.com/restaurants Valley: Dinner Thu–Sun 5–9; midday menu Sat–Sun 11:30–2:30 Terrace: Mon–Thu 8–6; Fri–Sun 7–7 The Garrison’s signature fine-dining restaurant offering seasonal American Cuisine and an extensive international wine list of great accolade. Regional and NYS Craft breweries and distilleries to match the seasonal-regional focus of the kitchen. Our spectacular view will enhance any dining experience.
Wildfire Grill 74 Clinton St, Montgomery (845) 457-3770; wildfireny.com Lunch Mon–Sat 11:30–3; Sun noon–3; dinner Sun–Thu 5–9; Fri & Sat 5–10 Eclectic is the buzzword at this popular local eatery, where patrons can feast on a predominantly American menu with Asian, Mexican and Italian influences in a rustic Victorian setting.
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The Vault 446 Main St, Beacon (845) 202-7735; thevaultbeacon.com Lunch & dinner Mon–Tue, Thur 11–midnight, Sat noon–midnight, Sun noon–9pm A tapas and spirits restaurant offering a warm atmosphere with refined elegance. The locally sourced, artisanal American menu combines creative takes on traditional dishes—sliders, crab cakes, charcuterie—with a fresh raw bar, local craft brews, extensive wine selection and creative cocktails—straight from the original 1920s vault. Happy hour Thursday brings discounted top-shelf martinis with complementary meatballs.
rant in the village of Wappingers Falls. The menu changes seasonally and displays Mexican, Italian and Asian flavors. Banquet room seats 50 for events.
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Thyme Restaurant 3605 Crompond Rd, Yorktown Heights (914) 788-8700; thymesteakandseafood.com Lunch & dinner Tue–Sun 11:30–10; brunch Sun 11:30–2 Step into Thyme for a relaxing meal of distinguished flavors. Chef-owner Tom Costello offers a menu of masterfully crafted dishes featuring Contemporary American fare in a warm and inviting setting. Explore the diverse wine list and seasonal cocktail specials.
Lunch Served Daily Mon - Fri 11am - 7:30pm Sat & Sun 10am - 6pm 69 Spring Street, Beacon, NY 12508 845.831.8050 • www.barbsbutchery.com june
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S E R V I C E S
Hudson Valley Federal Credit Union (845) 463-3011; hvfcu.org Full-service financial cooperative serving individuals and business in Dutchess, Orange, Ulster and Putnam Counties. 17 local branches and contact center avaiulable late on weekdays and all day on Saturdays. Over 82,000 conveniently located surcharge-free nationwide ATMs and a full siute of online, movile and text banking services. HVFCU is federally insured by the NCUA and is an Equal Housing Lender. T O U R I S M
Dutchess Tourism 3 Neptune Rd, Suite A11A, Poughkeepsie (845) 463-4000; dutchesstourism.com Sullivan County Visitors Association (800) 882-CATS; SCVA.net Explore the festivities and natural beauty of Sullivan County through the trails, restaurants, shops, and fall festivals.
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Ulster County Tourism 20 Broadway, Kingston (845) 334-5459; ulstercountyalive.com Westchester County Tourism (800) 833-9282; visitwestchesterny.com W H O L E S A L E
FARE & ALE
Great Food. Great Beer. Hudson Valley Strong
7466 South Broadway, Red Hook 12871 845.835.8365 daughtersfareandale.com
Red Barn Produce 217 Upper North Rd, Highland (845) 691-7428 Full-service, family owned and operated wholesaler servicing restaurants and institutions with a complete selection of fruits and vegetables for 20 years. A proud distributor of local, New York, highquality produce at competitive prices emphasizing reliable and personal service. Pick-up or delivery available to Dutchess, Columbia, Ulster and Orange counties. W I N E R I E S
Nostrano Vineyards 14 Gala Ln, Milton (845) 795-5473; nostranovineyards.com Sat & Sun noon-5 In Italian, “nostrano” translates to “of our own.” Nestled in the hills of the Hudson Valley, Nostrano Vineyards uses the name as their philosophy: a local vineyard producing wine from their own grapes. Tasting room now open.
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Shawangunk Wine Trail (845) 256-8456; (845) 291-1927; gunkswine.com Nestled between the Shawangunks and the Hudson River, just 60 miles north of NYC is a trail of 14 familyowned wineries from New Paltz to Warwick. The wineries offer tours and tastings amidst scenic beauty. A complete listing of wineries and events is available on our website. Stoutridge Vineyard 10 Ann Kaley Ln, Marlboro (845) 236-7620; stoutridge.com Many of our wines and spirits are locally grown, and all are from New York fruits and grains. Our wines are sold exclusively at the winery. Enjoy an authentic taste of the Hudson Valley at our winery, distillery and grounds. Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery 114 Little York Rd, Warwick (845) 258-4858; wvwinery.com Daily 11–6 for tastings Food & Wine magazine calls our draft cider “clean, vibrant” with a “sweet finish.” We produce wine for every occasion: Chardonnay, Riesling, Harvest Moon, Black Dirt Blush and Red, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir. As the Valley’s first distillery, we produce a line of fine brandies and liqueurs. Bakery Café serves lunch and fresh breads on weekends. Whitecliff Vineyard 331 McKinstry Rd, Gardiner (845) 255-4613; whitecliffwine.com Daily 11:30–5:30; Sat til 6 One of the valley’s largest vineyards boasts beautiful views of the Shawangunk Ridge. Owner/wine maker Michael Migliore produces award-winning wines from European vinifera varietals such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Riesling, as well as new hybrids. Visit our friendly tasting room. Winery tours by appointment, special events. 4
LOVE
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ON YOUR TABLE VA L L E Y TA B L E . C O M
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250,000 people. Two weeks. One valley. BE PART OF IT
Register your restaurant or become a sponsor of the most anticipated culinary event in the Hudson Valley.
HUDSON VALLEY RESTAURANT WEEK NOVEMBER 1–13, 2016 HudsonValleyRestaurantWeek.com (845) 765-2600 Presented by The Valley Table
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Buy local. Eat local.
Visit us online for recipes, cocktails, food and farm news, and a calendar of delicious events.
Just in time for your summer party.
Get more out of this issue by visiting us online!
Visit valleytable.com for recipes from your favorite chefs. This is the season of abundance, with colorful fruits and vegetables ripening and arriving at the market each week. Let The Valley Table help you make the most of your summer meals.
Check out the Farm tab on our site and find the Farmers' Markets near you. In addition to a complete listing of the Hudson Valley’s markets, our staff members share their fresh finds and how they enjoyed them— cooked or raw.
#BountyoftheHudson Join us! The Valley Table sponsors numerous events each year—so come by to greet us and enjoy the great taste of summer.
What to drink this summer. Check out the Drink tab for new brews, classic cocktail recipes and wines for sipping. Meet the Hudson Valley’s craft beverage makers.
July 16 we’ll be in Pawling at the Victory Cup celebrating food, farms and the Hudson Valley’s horse culture. July 18 we'll be at Newburgh Illuminated enjoying food trucks and music. July 30-31 we’ll be in Warwick celebrating the local wines and fare at Bounty of the Hudson Valley.
pleasantville farmers’ market, the village tearoom, tuthill house, samantha seeley, bounty of the hudson.
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LAST CALL
Erica’s ice dreams
For the past several years, artist and Beacon gallery owner Erica Hauser has been collecting antique ice cream product wrappers and related advertising items and documenting them as paintings and prints. The paintings on wood, paper and canvas highlight her interest in recording antique advertising, roadside signage and ephemera. To view more of her work, visit ericahauser.com.
Ice Cream Wrapper Series (acrylic on wood, assorted sizes approx 8” to 14”) 2014–15. 96
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