April 2017
Vol. 02 • Issue 04
FLAVOR SOUVENIRS Retro Recreations Kartinis in the Kitchen Sublime Creations Martabak Match
PUBLISHER’S NOTE
THE PUBLISHER’s NOTE April 2017
FLAVOR SOUVENIRS I THINK FOOD and fashion are very much alike. Food, like fashion, is very much subject to fads and trends. Also like fashion, food has often seen a resurgence of older trends coming back and being fashionable again. This issue we celebrate the vintage and old. I highlight vintage and old because I really believe that food trends never go out of style, they are just waiting for the cycle to come back. We challenged chefs Sean Macdougall of The Ritz-Carlton Jakarta, Pacific Place and Jacob Burrell of Attarine to come up with their updates on vintage dishes and the outcome is amazing! It being April, we also showcase two female chefs, modern day Kartinis in the kitchen, chefs Bo Songvisava of Bangkok’s Bo.lan and Elena Arzak of her family’s eponymous Arzak restaurant in San Sebastián, Spain. Both ladies have been shining examples of culinary creativity as well as
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taking up their own personal causes. We are excited to announce that the FoodieS team will be heading to Bali next month, for the Ubud Food Festival. Those wanting to come and participate can use the FoodieS promo code: MPFD for a 20% discount on the FOODLOVER pass at the Festival. Happy eating!
Jed V. Doble Publisher @jed.doble
OUR GUESTS
MANPALAGUPTA SITORUS Managing Director
AKHMAD BAIHAKI (AKI)
JED V. DOBLE
Photographer
Publisher
Enthusiastic and dedicated, Aki has been a professional photographer for more than 10 years. Originally from Mojokerto, East Java, in his spare time he loves to travel, watch and play his favorite sports and listen to music.
JUKE BACHTIAR Creative Director
Divya Pridhnani Writer
Divya Pridhnani is an IndoIndian freelance writer focusing on food reviews, lifestyle features and social causes across the archipelago. She is a major foodie, with a passionate love for seafood and everything spicy! Also, she loves dogs. Her personal life quote is: “Our insanity often keeps us insane.” Visit her blog at dpridhnani91.wordpress.com
DENNIE RAMON Head Photographer ANDRE ARDITYA Managing Editor
Tatu Hutami
YOSUA YANUARD LION HALOHO Digital Editors
Writer
Born as Tatu Hutami, she hates it when people ask her if her name was inspired by the Russian duo t.A.T.u. She wants to clarify that that is not the history behind her name. Tatu enjoys writing, eating, watching films, traveling and daydreaming.
AKI Divya Pridhnani TATU HUTAMI DANNY AW
Vincent Vichit-Vadakan Contributors
BOEDY ASTUTI Office Manager
DANNY AW
Photographer
LION HALOHO Digital Editor
Vincent Vichit-Vadakan Writer
Vincent has lived on three continents and speaks three languages, though not necessarily the ones people expect. He gave up a career in Paris publishing to cook, eat and travel around the world. Now based in Bangkok, Vincent writes articles and books in both English and French, subtitles the odd Italian movie, edits cookbooks, guidebooks and phrasebooks, trains chefs and tourism professionals, speaks publicly about food and cultural heritage, and cooks for his friends. He is always thinking about his next meal.
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Lion loves technology and is always hungry for anything new. He loves spending his time tinkering with photography and traveling. He’s also a social media junkie who loves to post anything and everything; check out his work with FoodieS and get to know him more through his social media handle @LionHaloho.
Born in 1993, Danny’s introduction to the field was taking still life images. He then found his passion in food photography in 2014 and has since pursued a career in the food and beverage industry. In his leisure time, he loves traveling and exploring the world.
Mukti PelupessY Distribution Assistant
DENNIE RAMON
Cover Photographer
For advertising inquiries:
info@foodies.id
www.foodies.id
FOODIES is published monthly. FOODIES and its logo are registered trademarks. COPYRIGHT© 2016 The Publisher reserves the right to accept or reject all editorial and advertising material. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or copied without the explicit written consent of the Publisher. Neither the Publisher, editors and their employees and agents can be held liable for any errors or omissions, nor any action taken based on the views expressed or information provided within this publication. All rights reserved.
ON THE MENU
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April 2017 | Vol. 02 | Issue 04
FLAVOR SOUVENIRS OPEN 10 | Wicked Ribs are now A GoGo! 12 | The Return of Bottega Ristorante 14 | Da Maria Opens for Lunch, Dinner and Late Night Pizza
ON THE PASS 16 | Come and Get It! Ubud Food Festival Lineup and Tickets are on the Table! 20 | OKU: Brings You The Authentic Taste of Tsukiji Market 24 | A Woman’s Place Is... Front and Center 26 | Fairmont Jakarta’s Exclusive Batik Afternoon Tea with Iwan Tirta 28 | Altitude’s Four Years Of Magic 30 | Cerveza Negra Rapid Surprise
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31 | Kids High Tea at Keraton at The Plaza 32 | The Westin Jakarta’s Food for The Seoul 34 | The Peruvian Palate at Sailendra Restaurant 36 | Exquisite “Super Brunch” at The Dharmawangsa Jakarta
MY OTHER HALF 38 | The Perfect Kitchen Combo
COVER STORY 48 | Sean’s Blast from the Past 54 | Jacob’s Memory Lane
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KARTINIS IN THE KITCHEN
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60 | Activist in the Kitchen 64 | Explorer in the Kitchen
FOOD FIGHT 68 | Modern Martabak
HAPPY HOUR 72 | Manhattan Takes Over Nautilus
Foodie Confidentials 76 | Story in A Box 78 | Ichiro’s Kaiseki Experience
THE CLASSICS 80 | Vineth Bakery: Surviving The Odds
FINE DINING 82 | Bold Bar Ware
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OPEN
Wicked Ribs are now
A GoGo! photographs by GOGO HOG WILD
When it comes to tempting treats, one can never quite forget the Hog Wild experience. It’s a pleasure that starts from the infectious vibe and culminates with the most wicked barbecue pork ribs this side of Bali. To the many who have enjoyed this deliciousness, having Hog Wild whenever, wherever, may well be a dream come true.
GOGO HOG WILD Jalan Mertanadi No. 46B, Kerobokan Kelod, Kuta Utara Kabupaten Badung, Bali www.letsgohogwild.com T: +62 812 87842222 Facebook: GoGo Hog Wild 10
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CHEF BRUNO, Hog Wild’s founder, says many customers have asked why they did not open a place in Seminyak because with traffic congestion, it can be a hassle to go to the main outlet. “We are grateful to them for giving us meaningful insight. This valuable feedback inspired us to explore a new direction,” Chef Bruno said. In the true spirit of letting go, Hog Wild is now spreading the goodness by bringing its signature Wicked Ribs to more locations near you. Introducing GoGo Hog Wild! The express way to Wicked Ribs and more tempting treats. GoGo Hog Wild brings you its best in a jiffy. It’s fast, but definitely not fast food. Think fine dining made more convenient, more hip, and more happening for you. You get to pick and choose, mix and match, and GoGo your meal as you please. Imagine the fall-off-the-bone yumminess of Wicked Ribs in three different flavors, paired with hearty hand-cut fries, fresh corn or simply with rice, and finished off with your choice of beer or soda. You can try different combinations and savour GoGo meals that excite your tastebuds every time. “You can hang out with us at our new place or even have
your meals to GoGo,” said Chef Bruno. The new dining and retail concept makes it possible for customers to conveniently bring the signature Wicked Ribs to picnics at the beach, to their hotel or villa, even take them home as oleh-oleh (souvenirs), and literally go places with them. The first GoGo Hog Wild is now open at Jalan Mertanadi (across from Gusto Gelato). Soon it will be at more locations in and around Bali. Wicked Ribs domination? Let’s GoGo!
• April 2017
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OPEN
The Return of
BOTTEGA
RISTORANTE story by TATU HUTAMI photographs by BOTTEGA RISTORANTE
In the middle of April, after a few months of preparation, Bottega Ristorante finally returned to its original address in Kuningan on the corner of SCBD Fairgrounds Lot 14.
BOTTEGA RISTORANTE Fairgrounds, Lot 14, SCBD, Jakarta T: +6221 5140 2266 12
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THERE ARE several doors to access this place. One is through Bottega Ristorante’s very own bar – the Dirty Laundry – and the other is through its own door. For fans of the old Bottega Ristorante, there’s no need to worry because almost everything about the new place caters to their memories of the original, sticking to the restaurant’s own idiosyncrasies to an amazing degree. The interior is set to evoke the glam of the old address in a much roomier space. Houndstooth check covers the chairs. Dim light from the industrial-esque chandelier is set so that vines seem to climb the walls. For the food, Bottega Ristorante has a strong grip on its roots, European inspired dishes. It is still the same European dishes but they have added a few influences to the menu such as Mexican food. For a starter, you can try the beet and sugar snap pea salad which is composed of crispy beets with honey vinaigrette, mesclun greens, candied almonds and crumbled
gorgonzola. You then can proceed to a porcini coffee rubbed steak which is made from 300 grams of USDA prime sirloin rubbed with dried porcini and arabica coffee with charred leeks. If you fancy Italian food, do not miss the spaghetti with pork ragout made from tomato
sauce, braised pork shoulder and white wine. There is also penne alla vodka which is made from penne tossed in vodka marinara with salmon chunks, cream and tomato sauce added. Dessert is not a minor event at Bottega Ristorante. The most recommended dish is flourless
hazelnut chocolate cake. This dessert is claimed to be gluten free, yet it still has the right texture and that subtle taste. Some details might have changed at Bottega Ristorante, but the formula remains intact; things fall into place and nobody feels they’re missing out.
• April 2017
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OPEN
DA MARIA
Opens for Lunch, Dinner and Late Night Pizza photographs by DA MARIA
Since opening in November 2016, Bali’s Da Maria has enjoyed an incredible response and due to high demand it is now open for lunch, with a selection of new items added to the menu.
DA MARIA Jalan Petitenget No. 170, Badung, Bali T: +62 361 9348523 Facebook: Da Maria Bali 14
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DA MARIA HAS enjoyed spectacular popularity for dinner and its Late Night Pizza+Bar and its lunch service now encapsulates everything the Almalfi coast represents; long lunches, beautiful surroundings and fresh, simple Italian cuisine. New dishes introduced by Chef Steven Skelly highlight the origins of Da Maria - Wood Roasted Sardine Bruschetta, Scallop Crudo with fennel pollen and finger lime, Calamari Saint Andreas with squid ink aioli and Roasted Fish of the Day with asparagus and rocket, which will transport you to the great outdoor courtyards of Capri. Other new additions include Asparagus and Stracciatella Bruschetta, chicken roasted in custom-made local lava ovens, Spaghetti Vongole with fresh local clams, house-made cavatelli and mozzarella on lemon leaves. “We’ve been blown away by the reception Da Maria has received,” said Maurice Terzini. “Lunches were always on the table but the overwhelmingly positive response means we have expanded into lunch earlier than expected. Guests can come and enjoy long lunches into evening drinks in their own slice of the Almalfi Coast in Seminyak.” Three months since swinging its doors open for dinner, Da Maria has become a hub for locals, travelers and expatriates to experience
consistent Italian dining and drinks, accessible for people of all ages in an environment that is always welcoming. Lazarini Pickering Architects focused on a design very reminiscent of a 1960s Amalfi Coast courtyard with a cooling, fresh blue and white palette and bold geometric styling, paying homage to legendary Italian designer Giò Ponti, complemented by ambient fountains and skylights with cascading passionfruit vines. Da Maria has already hosted several highly successful events, such as their NYD+3 party, where international and local glitterati came together for a New Year celebration to remember. Recent events have featured renowned acts such as Sneaky Sound System, Guy Gerber and Yolanda Be Cool whilst Sydney based music director Kali from PICNIC Social is a testament to Da Maria’s commitment to quality sounds, being the constant influence for Late Night Pizza + Bar. Late Night Pizza + Bar offers a host of nightly DJs that create the perfect soundtrack for a night of classic Italian flavors such as Negroni and Spritz, whilst maintaining an emphasis on creating new favorites with the likes of the Sicilian Margarita and the Frose with Pomelo and raspberry. Wanting the venue to be accessible at all times, the Late Night menu offers Da Maria’s full range of pizzas as well as Arrostocini and Porchetta.
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ON THE PASS
COME AND GET IT!
Ubud Food Festival Lineup and Tickets are on the Table! photographs by MATT OLDFIELD, UBUD FOOD FESTIVAL
More than 100 chefs, culinary icons, restaurateurs, environmental advocates and social innovators will descend on Bali this May 12-14 for the third Ubud Food Festival (UFF). The full lineup and range of ticketed events have been released!
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HEADLINING this year’s list of international guests are Chele González of Gallery VASK, the Philippines’ only entrant on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2017, chef and author Joannès Rivière of Cambodia’s coveted Cuisine Wat Damnak and Sicilian-born, award-winning chef and owner of Singapore’s Gattopardo Ristorante di Mare and Sydney’s Olio, Lino Sauro. They’ll be joined by Manjunath Mural of Singapore’s Michelin-starred The Song of India, Robuchon Bangkok Group’s Executive Pastry Chef, Belgian Yannis J. Janssens, the ‘Anthropologist in the Kitchen’, Taiwanese chef and writer Tzu-i Chuang Mullinax, one of Peru’s most revered chefs, Eduardo Montes, and Bo Songvisava and Dylan Jones of Bangkok’s coveted Bo.lan restaurant (No. 19 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants). Showcasing the best of contemporary Indonesian cuisine, the UFF will bring together the nation’s rising stars and culinary royalty, including Jakarta trendsetters Karen Carlotta, Adhika
Maxie, Fernando Sindu and Ragil Imam Wibowo, who is renowned for modernizing Indonesian cuisine. Celebrated pastry chef Kim Pangestu will appear alongside Master Chef Indonesia judge Rinrin Marinka and celebrity chef Farah Quinn. The queen of Indonesian cuisine, Ibu Sisca Soewitomo, will be joined by the father of Indonesian food writing, Pak Bondan Winarno, the world’s foremost tempe expert professor Winarno and eminent culinary diplomat William Wongso. Through its host of Special Events, UFF showcases Bali’s internationally acclaimed dining destinations and the chefs behind them, including El Bulli-trained Kevin Cherkas of Cuca; Mozaic and Spice’s French-meets-Balinese master chef Chris Salans; the Street Food Chef Will Meyrick; UFF Founder and Director Janet DeNeefe; Room4Dessert’s Will Goldfarb; Penelope Williams of Bali Asli; and Eelke Plasmeijer and the team behind Locavore, Indonesia’s ‘Best In-Country’ at No. 22 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Across the three-day program, festivalgoers will experience the culinary diversity of the Indonesian archipelago. Pioneering chef and writer Petty Elliott will introduce audiences to modern Manadonese, foraged flavors from the Papuan highlands will be shared by The Jungle Chef Charles Toto, the distinctive Chinese-Indonesian cuisine of the Bangka Belitung Islands will be prepared by its leading specialist, Eddrian Tjhia, and a fusion of modern techniques and traditional Balinese cuisine will be brought to the table by Made Lugra. The world’s first Indonesian certified plant-based cuisine chef, Made Runatha of MOKSA will be joined by colleague and sustainability advocate Made Janur. At the festival’s free indepth Think, Talk, Taste series, Indonesia’s most pressing ecological and health concerns • April 2017
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ON THE PASS will be canvassed by advocates and innovators including indigenous food biodiversity frontrunner Helianti Hilman, Fair Trade Manager of Communities and Fisheries Foundation Yasmine Simbolon, lifestyle guru Arimbi Nimpuno and health coach Sophie Navita. Honing the skills of avid food writers, photographers and Instagrammers, the festival also plays host to a range of masterclasses led by the industry’s best. With hit social media account Warteg Gourmet, gastronomic trailblazer Dade Akbar transforms Indonesian street food into haute cuisine. Joining him is culinary storyteller Ade Putri Paramadita, esteemed food writer, author and critic Kevindra Soemantri, commercial food photographer Togi Panjaitan, food historian and author Fadly Rahman and the ‘walking dictionary’ of Indonesian street food, Arie Parikesit. In the month leading
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up to and after the Festival, UFF hosting a feast of Fringe Events across Seminyak and Sanur’s dining hotspots. From a long-table lunch focusing on Balinese palm sugar at Kaum to a four chef five-course collaboration at Bikini, the Fringe Events bring a taste of UFF down south. “We’re so excited to bring together more than 100 speakers to dish up our third Ubud Food Festival program, which is rich in culinary heritage, innovation and, of course, taste!” said DeNeefe. “More than just good food, our program unites chefs and foodies alike for a whole-of-industry look at the food landscape – from the hardworking farmers and growers to our muchloved culinary icons, there is something to excite every appetite!” The full program, lineup and tickets are available through the website www. ubudfoodfestival.com.
“We’re so excited to bring together more than 100 speakers to dish up our third Ubud Food Festival program, which is rich in culinary heritage, innovation and, of course, taste!” UBUD FOOD FESTIVAL www.ubudfoodfestival.com Twitter: @ubudfoodfest Instagram: @ubudfoodfest Facebook: UbudFoodFestival
• April 2017
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ON THE PASS
OKU: Bringing You The Authentic Taste of Tsukiji Market story by YOSUA YANUARD photographs by YOSUA YANUARD
If food and travel are your thing, then Tsukiji Market is a must visit place when in Japan. Now, you can get a taste of Tsukiji Market in Jakarta.
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OKU IS A Japanese premium restaurant located at Hotel Indonesia Kempinsky in the heart of Jakarta. FoodieS was invited to OKU’s recent special omakase menu tasting, involving an authentic dining experience of Tsukiji Market. For those who don’t know Tsukiji Market, it is the world famous wholesale market for fish, fruits and vegetables in central Tokyo, Japan. You can pick your fish and ask local restaurants to cook it for you, or just sit at any restaurant and enjoy their dishes because all the food places there are guaranteed to source fresh ingredients from the market. Enjoying the Okukase menu at OKU using ingredients from Tsukiji Market is an experience that shouldn’t be missed. Some of the dishes were really fun and memorable for us, but let’s start with the Uni. It’s like umami bomb in one bite. The combination of sea urchin, chutoro (medium fatty tuna), and caviar is a deadly combination of rich tastes, but the seaweed cracker elevate it further by providing a lovely texture to the dish. Next is the Oku Karaage, a blackened deboned chicken thigh. You put the whole thing in your mouth before biting into it, to avoid sweet sauce flying across the table. It’s fun to have with friends and and watch their expressions when it pops in their mouth. The next dishes are the seasonal fish from Tsukiji Market and Iseebi (spiny lobster). For both dishes, they use the freshest ingredients; these two main courses are full of flavor and will satisfy your palate. The sweet lobster meat combined with savory taste of
the sauce is heavenly. Next on the line is Kamo, which is grilled pecking duck breast with duck soup and duck patties with spicy daikon served with wasabi. It has a complex flavor which you will never have enough of; you might munch through three portions of this dish and still crave more.
Thenthere is Unagi, featuring a humble taste from fresh water eel with charcoal grilled rice, and Mizu, the famous water mochi also known as the rain drop cake from Japan. The last one is called Matcha, a combination of green tea, white chocolate, and raspberry marshmallow. These three last dishes are
like a warm breeze to end the adventurous meal. Chef Kazumasa Yazawa, better known as chef Kaz, is the mastermind behind OKU’s kitchen. “All of my creations are made with absolute respect toward all the products and ingredients that are used,” he said. We’re sure to be back.
OKU JAPANESE PREMIUM RESTAURANT AT HOTEL INDONESIA KEMPINSKY Jalan MH Thamrin No. 1 Jakarta. T: +62 21 2358 3896 Instagram: @okujakarta
• April 2017
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ON THE PASS
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April 2017 •
“All of my creations are made with absolute respect toward all the products and ingredients that are used.�
ON THE PASS
A Woman’s Place Is...
FRONT and CENTER photographs by VINCENT VICHIT-VADAKAN
Great chefs reinvent their childhood favorites for a good cause. EACH YEAR since 2013 when the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurant list was created, the organizers of the closely watched prize have also shone the spotlight on an outstanding woman chef in Asia. On March 4, just ahead of International Women’s Day, all five recipients of title of Asia’s Best Female Chef were reunited in Manila for an
exclusive benefit that raised over US$800,000 to build four National Centers for Children with Disabilities across the Philippines. Each of the previous holders of the title volunteered her time to design and cook a canapé served with predinner drinks as well as a dinner course, all inspired by a
childhood memory. We asked each chef to talk about the dishes she served. For her canapé, Chef Bo Songvisava of Bangkok’s Bo.lan made a Rice Cracker with Minced Pork and Prawn wrapped in Pickled Mustard Green Leaves, a dish that reminded her of trips to the market with her parents. “I can
still hear the bite of the ricecracker crunchiness,” she said. Sweet, salty, nutty and sour, “it is one of many dishes that introduced me to the balance of flavor and texture of Thai food.” Chef Margarita Forés made Piaya and Goose Liver Inasal, highlighting local Filipino ingredients. She paired piaya,
ASIA’S 50 BEST RESTAURANTS www.theworlds50best.com/asia Twitter: @TheWorlds50Best #Asias50Best Facebook: Asias50BestRestaurants Instagram: @TheWorlds50Best
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a rustic cracker that was a childhood favorite of hers with a more grown-up marinated goose liver, and garnished the morsel with soured guava and santol fruits to make atchara, a local pickle not unlike acar. Pork Terrine, Truffle Mayonnaise and Fines Herbes was Taiwanese Chef Lanshu Chen’s dressed-up nod to her days training to be a chef in Paris. “I didn’t have much time to prepare dinner after the school and restaurant work so I would go to the supermarket to buy packaged pork terrine and salad for dinner,” she recalled fondly. Hong Kong Chef Vicky Lau made Tomato Panna Cotta with Strawberries and Iberico Ham. “Like a lot of kids, I was obsessed with all things micro. Naturally I had an immediate attraction toward micro tomatoes from Japan.” She put them in an appetizer that reminded her of the tomato soups of her childhood.
Opening the sit-down dinner, Chef Bo, who took home the first ever Asia’s Best Female chef trophy in 2013, chose to serve a starter of three bite-sized dishes. Her sticky rice dumplings with mung beans and crispy pancakes are common street food snacks, while mild Chicken Paenang is often a popular dish with Thai children before they move on to more robust curries. “These three items are what I used to snack on. They are very flavorsome but gentle in spices [and were] a good introduction to more intense flavors.” Gaita, as Chef Forés is called by all who know her, heads a successful catering business and a string of restaurants in Manila including her flagship Grace Park. Cooking on her home court, she served Pan-Roasted White Marlin with a Guinataan of Blue Crab, Corn and Bamboo Shoots for the fish course.
“This coconut milk braised dish [guinataan] was nearly always a staple at meals growing up in our very Negrense household,” she said, making a reference to her native island of Negros about 800 km south of the capital. “I also chose this because crab is one of my most favorite ingredients.” She champions local ingredients like the marlin from Bohol and local techniques like smoking coconuts before extracting the coconut cream, a process that she first observed in Mindanao. Inspired by the heady stew her grandfather would cook for Chinese New Year, Chef Lanshu of Le Moût in the city of Taichung on Taiwan’s west coast replaced the traditional cured duck with beef and served Wagyu Tenderloin, Mushrooms and Mustard Greens and Rice. “The vivid bitterness mixed with a smoky duck fragrance is a symbol of a delicious family gathering.” The rare beef gives a modern twist
while the soft rice and greens act as a sauce that binds the dish. Chef Lau told the story of her dessert surrounded by builders putting the finishing touches on her newly relocated Tate Dining Room and Bar in Hong Kong. What she called Honey Lemon Candy was “inspired by a local candy that I had when I was young that I was obsessed with.” Her sophisticated dessert made with local Shatin honey was a lemon mousse with explosive pop rock sweets and ice cream. “I used to save up my money to buy this candy at the shop during break time at school.” And what childhood memory would 2017’s newly minted Best Female Chef May Chow, who has opened two successful Little Bao restaurants, one in Hong Kong and one in Bangkok, have cooked? “I would do a congee-inspired dish and make the congee into a sauce,” she mused, without missing a beat. “Congee is something I grew up with, and as a kid I also loved the crullers, like a Chinese donut. It was something you could look forward to especially when the mornings were cold.” Who knows? Maybe a version of the dish will appear on the menu of Happy Paradise, her latest Hong Kong venture. All the chefs agree that winning the distinction has given them a platform to address a variety of subjects close to their hearts, like children’s disabilities at the UNICEF Children’s Ball, but activist chef Bo Songvisava who is also known for her stance on the environment and sustainability perhaps summed up best how the award has empowered them. “I want to talk to the world about so many things, I can’t just sit down and be quiet.” With the title of Asia’s Best Female Chef she feels that “more people sit up and listen.”
• April 2017
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ON THE PASS
Fairmont Jakarta’s
Exclusive Batik Afternoon Tea with Iwan Tirta photographs by FAIRMONT JAKARTA
Fairmont Jakarta partners with the iconic Indonesian & luxury batik brand Iwan Tirta Private Collection to launch a special batik edition of the hotel’s renowned Afternoon Tea Set that can be enjoyed at Peacock Lounge from April 1 to May 31.
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BUILDING ON Fairmont’s tradition of celebrating afternoon tea, Peacock Lounge at Fairmont Jakarta always strives to offer a chic twist on its Signature Afternoon Tea. The collaboration is in conjunction with the upcoming fashion show of Iwan Tirta Private Collection titled “Condrosengkolo”, featuring the documentation of ancient motifs and patterns that carry stories about the universe, God’s unity and the unification of microcosm. The highly awaited fashion show will be held at the Grand Ballroom of Fairmont Jakarta on April 26. Iwan Tirta Private Collection stands with a mission to preserve the maestro’s legacy and introduce innovative designs to modern-minded
batik admirers. On this special occasion, Fairmont Jakarta’s pastry team uses the inspiration to celebrate local batik tradition and reflect the spirit in the Hotel’s signature afternoon tea in various colours and patterns. The Iwan Tirta Batik Afternoon Tea features delectable sweets and savoury bites, such as salty caramel éclairs, flourless chocolate rolls, red velvet brownies, mini green tea citrus and hazelnut opera cakes, ginger honey macarons, chocolate lollipops with edible pearls, carrot cake, various flavored butter cakes, as well as its other signature servings like fruit tartlets, mini sandwiches, scones and madeleine. “One of the Fairmont brand pillars is to connect with the destination and to be locally
inspired. We are delighted to partner with Iwan Tirta Private Collection to reflect the beauty of Indonesian batik in our signature afternoon tea,” explained Felicia Setiawan, director of marketing communications of Fairmont Jakarta. Rindu Melati, marketing manager of Iwan Tirta Private Collection, said they were excited about the collaboration with Fairmont Jakarta. “Iwan Tirta Private Collection showcases the luxury and sophistication of Indonesian batik, with which Peacock Lounge also shares the same spirit. It is a great way to celebrate the love of batik in a unique style.” To celebrate the beauty of batik, Fairmont Jakarta invites
its guests to dress in batik while enjoying the special edition afternoon tea at Peacock Lounge. Guests are encouraged to post a photo on Instagram to have the chance to win a gift from Iwan Tirta Private Collection. To be eligible for the Instagram contest, guests should follow @FairmontJakarta and @IwanTirta_Batik, and mention the specific hashtags of #IwanTirtaAfternoonTea and #PeacockLounge. The Iwan Tirta Afternoon Tea will be available for Rp 488,000++ per set, including coffee or premium TWG tea for two persons. For more information or reservations, please call +62 21 2970 3333 or email diningreservations. jakarta@fairmont.com. FAIRMONT JAKARTA Jalan Asia Afrika No. 8 Gelora Bung Karno, Jakarta T: +62 21 2970 3333 Facebook: Fairmont Jakarta
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ON THE PASS
ALTITUDE’s Four Years Of Magic photographs by ALTITUDE
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Jakarta’s food scene has been changed by the opening of Altitude at The Plaza by PT Intercontinental Culinary. This year, the high-end food place celebrates its fourth anniversary. AT ATITUDE, GAIA by OSO Ristorante serves the finest classic Italian cuisine from the Puglia region, SALT GRILL presents a modern Australian culinary concept by Luke Mangan and ENMARU delivers a creative Izakaya concept emphasizing the freshness and unique cooking technique to give the best possible Japanese dining experience. These three high-end restaurant concepts have been established on the 46th floor of the most prestigious location in the heart of Central Jakarta. The theme of Altitude’s fourth anniversary was ‘Four
Years of Magic’ to recognize the amazing team and team work of Altitude at The Plaza. It celebrated the magic of having everyone from the kitchen, front of house, operations on the floor, as well as the back office – all working hard hand-in-hand to keep Altitude at The Plaza a premium dining destination. Chef MJ of Salt Grill Jakarta, Chef Nazario Orlando of Gaia and Chef Takashi Tomie of Enmaru prepared two months of special promotions and events. The road to Four Years of Magic’ opened with Gaia
presenting the Macallan Master Series Dinner, hosted by Reino Barack, David Audy and Heru Sugiarta on March 9 – a fivecourse whiskey pairing dinner especially designed by Chef Nazario Orlando, and on March 31 Chef Diego Chiarini from Oso Ristorante flew to Jakarta for a Piemonte and Pugliese dinner. Salt Grill Jakarta presented ‘Bubbles Bubbles & More Bubbles’ – a delectable fivecourse bubbles pairing dinner by Chef MJ on March 17. One of the most awaited events was the Super Brunch on April 1 – a Brunch Party concept where
every guest could purchase a ticket and enjoy every dish from all the different outlets at Altitude. Later on in April, Enmaru along with Gaia and Salt Grill had Easter Sunday Brunch specials on April 16, and Gaia had a Premium Wine Dinner by DSP on April 28. The Four Years of Magic Anniversary Celebration was held on May 5, with a special menu in collaboration with Treasury Wine Estate at Salt Grill and Talamonti wine at Gaia with entertainment by LesBrayz and DJ Shawn Muljadi. In addition to all the special events and promotions, from March 9, Altitude guests spending a minimum of Rp 1 million could get a lucky draw ticket, and guests purchasing glass or a bottle of Penfolds Max could get an additional lucky draw ticket to enhance their chances of winning the grand prize. For Standard Chartered credit card holders, the location has proudly announced that it is continuing its collaboration in 2017, in which card holders can get special discounts when dining at Altitude and also the benefit of an additional lucky draw ticket for every Rp 1 million spent. Altitude at The Plaza was set to announce the lucky draw winners during the anniversary celebration – and the grand prize is an amazing trip for two people to Adelaide, Australia – sponsored by DSP wine and spirits.
ALTITUDE THE PLAZA, 46TH FLOOR Jalan M.H. Thamrin Kavling 28 – 30, Jakarta T: +62 21 2992 2448 www.altitude.co.id Facebook: Altitude The Plaza
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ON THE PASS
CERVEZA NEGRA
Rapid Surprise photographs by YOSUA YANUARD
San Miguel held a tasting event after the grand launch of Cerveza Negra on Feb. 24. A MONTH AFTER the grand launch of Cerveza Negra, San Miguel held a beer tasting event with the media. The event was held at Namaste Bar and Resto, pairing beer with Indian food. The dark lager beer Cerveza Negra creates a soft foam when it’s poured, a sign of a good quality beer, and it has a very unique taste compared with other dark lagers. “This beer is a combination of strong caramel flavor and the bitterness of coffee,” said Jaka Sebastian, brand manager at San Miguel. Cerveza Negra has a smoother taste with a less bitter aftertaste, making it more enjoyable. The unique flavor profile makes it great to pair with spicy food, providing a balance between each bite and gulp. San Miguel followed up the beer tasting with a free flow event on March 29 at 15 San Miguel outlets across Jakarta, including Bacco restaurant, Basque and Camden. San Miguel Cerveza Negra is available in major Indonesian cities like Jakarta, Bandung and also cities in Bali in the form of bottles, cans, or draft.
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Kids High Tea at
KERATON at The Plaza photographs by KERATON AT THE PLAZA
Keraton at The Plaza Jakarta is presenting an extraordinary high tea menu dedicated entirely to little ones, named Kids High Tea, in collaboration with the famous Junior Master Chef Indonesia, Chef Revo. “I AM VERY honored to exclusively curate the Kids High Tea for Keraton at The Plaza’s guests. I believe this unique initiative of having a dedicated high tea set for kids which I am creating in collaboration with Keraton’s culinary experts will become the next culinary trend in Jakarta,” explained Chef Revo at the launch of Kids High Tea. Revo is a passionate young chef who was one of the top six contestants of Junior Master Chef Indonesia Season 1. He began to fall in love with cooking when he was a little kid and he has continued to pursue his dream of becoming a professional chef by engaging in the culinary world. He went through an internship program at French bistro Le Quartier and has done multiple episodes of cooking instruction videos for Kokiku TV. He currently creates REVOlution Saturday Brunch and runs a private dining business called REVOlution Private Dinner. The Kids High Tea will become another great idea for spending quality time with children. Indulge in a perfect combination of sweet and savoury delicacies such as the Pink Panther, raspberry mousse topped with whipped cream and meringue, smoked salmon sandwich, tamago sushi, mini beef slider, scones paired with strawberry jam and many more. Kids High Tea is available all day until Dec. 30 at Rp 298,000++ per set including two beverages with options such as milk tea, hot chocolate or strawberry milkshake. For regular guests, Keraton Lounge’s daily high tea collections are also available to order. Exclusively for every purchase of Kids High Tea from March 24 until April 16, guests were entitled for two Smurfs: The Lost Village movie tickets at Plaza Indonesia XXI with open dates. Keraton at The Plaza Hotel Jakarta Jalan MH. Thamrin Kav. 15, Jakarta T: +62 21 5068 0000 www.keratonattheplazajakarta.com Facebook: Keraton at The Plaza, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Jakarta • April 2017
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ON THE PASS
The Westin Jakarta’s
Food for THE SEOUL photographs by THE WESTIN JAKARTA
The Westin Jakarta held a Korean food event titled Food for The Seoul, where it brought the ultimate tastes of Korea to Jakarta, from March 16 to 26.
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WITH FOOD by Chef Hwang Hae Seong and Chef Kim Dae Jin from JW Marriott Seoul, guests enjoyed their innovative and exciting Korean culinary style at Seasonal Tastes. Hwang Hae Seong (or Charlie Huang) has been a chef at JW Marriot Seoul since 2011. After graduating from the Ministry for Food, Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries (MIFAFF) Korean Culinary Chef Program, Chef Hwang Hae Seong has received appreciation from the Korea Chefs Association and JW Marriot Seoul. He also won a bronze medal at the Hongkong Culinary HOFEX international event in 2011, in the Gourmet Challenge Team category. Kim Dae Jin has been in the culinary industry for 18 years with a license in Korean Cuisine. After graduating from Eulji University, he managed to lead the Korean food promotion at Reinassance Beijing Hotel successfully in 2014. Since December 2013, he has been part of JW Marriott Seoul as main Korean kitchen demi chef de partie. They made a great impression regarding the real taste of Korean food. Of course, the top compliments
were for the bibimbap and Korean barbeque menu. Bibimbap, which is known as a healthy dish, was served and guests could see the freshness of the rice and vegetables just by looking at the vibrant colors in the bowl. Nothing is more comforting for Koreans than rice mixed with fiery gochujang (red chili paste). Korean barbeque, also
known as bulgogi, also also received an equal share of the spotlight during the event. The chefs marinated beef with a mixture of honey, thick soy sauce, black pepper, chopped garlic and scallions. Then, they cut it into thin slices and grilled them. The juicy and sweet taste from the well selected premium beef was an authentic flavor which will not
forgotten. A bowl of warm doenjang jjigae (soybean paste stew) works as perfect bridge between the bibimbap and bulgogi. The Food for The Seoul event was a great experience for all Jakarta food enthusiasts, not only bringing a real taste of Korea but also a great eating experience.
THE WESTIN JAKARTA Jalan HR Rasuna Said, Kav C-22, Jakarta www.westin.com/jakarta T: +62 21 2788 7789 Facebook: The Westin Jakarta Instagram: @TheWestinJakarta
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ON THE PASS
The Peruvian Palate
at Sailendra Restaurant photographs by JW MARRIOTT HOTEL JAKARTA
In collaboration with The Commercial Office of Peru and The Embassy of Peru, JW Marriott Hotel Jakarta presented authentic Peruvian cuisine at Sailendra Restaurant featuring a special guest chef from Peru, Eduardo Enrique Montes Traverso.
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EDUARDO STARTED his career in 2007 and managed to introduce Peruvian cuisine to Hong Kong in 2013 as the executive chef of Mayta Restaurant. With more than 10 years of experience in the culinary industry, Eduardo believes that a chef must cook by combining tradition and experience. During the food festival, guests can savor hot Peruvian appetizers such as cholclo con queso, potato coctel and beef heart skewers. Beef heart skewers are a much-loved Peruvian hawker food and a favorite late-night dish, which is made from meat marinated in spices and smoky chilies. As the main course was lomo saltado, seco norteno and aji de gallina. For Peruvians, the most delicious aji de gallina is made by their grandmothers. Therefore, this food is often referred to as “Grandma’s specialty”. At the sweet end of the Peruvian culinary journey, suspiro de limena is a must-try item. Carrying the city’s name,
as it means “sight of Lima”, it is a combination of dulce de leche or caramelized sugar and smooth meringue. “We bring Peruvian cuisine to the city of Jakarta as a part of our endeavor to follow trends and also bring fresh and new experiences to our customers,” said Hotel Manager
of JW Marriott Hotel Jakarta, Vikas Malik. “Peruvian is on a rise in popularity and is being described as the next thing to watch on the map of food trends across the globe. This cuisine is a melting pot of different cultures and they have amazing ingredients as well as countless dishes from all over
the country,” added Malik. Experience this extraordinary fare featuring the exotic signature recipes at Sailendra Restaurant. Guests enjoyed Chef Eduardo’s signature Peruvian delights from March 24 to April 20, priced at Rp 388,000++ per person.
SAILENDRA RESTAURANT JW Marriot Hotel Jakarta Jalan DR Ide Anak Agung Gede Agung Kav E.1.2 No. 1 and 2 Mega Kuningan, Jakarta T: +62 21 57988888 Facebook: JW Marriot Hotel Jakarta
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ON THE PASS
Exquisite “Super Brunch” at
The Dharmawangsa Jakarta photographs by THE DHARMAWANGSA JAKARTA
Sunday has always been the favorite day of the week to enjoy great company and treat oneself to delectable meals, say a juicy tenderloin steak with creamy mashed potato or a plateful of dessert while chatting away with your favorite people.
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ON SUNDAY April 2, The Dharmawangsa Jakarta amped up the weekend with another Super Brunch, serving more than 120 delicious meals accompanied by soothing live music, kids activities and a memorable atmosphere. The Super Brunch took place at Jakarta Restaurant & Courtyard, extending to the Majapahit Lounge from 11.30 am to 3 pm. Guests were greeted by warm smiles and extensive buffet tables ranging from Indonesian to international cuisines, and also the choice of unlimited flow of Laurent Perrier champagne to accompany the brunch. The kitchen team, led by Chef Felix Budisetiawan, offered an exclusive serving of the extraordinary pan and seared Patagonian toothfish with mango, basil, tomato and avocado salad, or coconut and lime leaf vinaigrette. Those opting for beer were delighted to have a taste of roasted 10-month-old Spanish Galician rib eye. The Caviar Station brought Sturia Primeur caviar, Calvicious Siberian classic Ascietra, and Da Vinci caviar from Italy. Never to missing from brunch is the Seafood Tower on Ice with selections of fresh oysters ranging from fine de claire, royal, pearl, and classic, and also wild Alaskan king crab. Exquisite desserts and selections of boutique cheese, including AOC French and Italian cheese, were also presented. As the pioneer of Super Brunch in Jakarta, The Dharmawangsa puts on the exclusive program twice every year with the next one coming up in October, when another extensive Super Brunch menu and new specialties will be offered to surprise guests.
THE DHARMAWANGSA Jalan Brawijaya No. 26, Jakarta www.the-dharmawangsa.com Facebook: thedharmawangsajakarta Instagram: @thedharmawangsajakarta
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MY OTHER HALF
The Perfect
KITCHEN COMBO story by DIVYA PRIDHNANI photograph by DENNIE RAMON
Social House’s executive chef Aldo Volpi and his executive sous chef Solihin liken their working relationship to the flavors and textures of a peanut butter and jelly sandwich. ALDO AND SOLIHIN crossed paths a decade ago, the very day the popular eatery Social House was established. The duo discovered that they shared a strong passion for creating and serving exquisite food. During this time, the pair spent hours discussing and developing the ultimate menu, with Aldo’s expertise in Western cuisine and Solihin’s in Asian. This is evident in Social House’s extensive, innovative and tantalizing menu, encompassing various food from East to West with Korean bibimbap, garlic prawns, sushi, egg benedict and pasta, to name a few. “I wouldn’t call being a chef ‘work’. It is a lifestyle,” said Aldo, mirroring the sentiments of Solihin. Although change is inevitable – team dynamics, customer demographics, economic conditions and more – one thing has remained unchanged over the years: Aldo and Solihin’s partnership. “We had to keep evolving and growing, and we had each other as constants, especially during the expected highs and lows of a restaurant business,” said Aldo, who was born in Italy but considers himself as being raised in international waters before he finally settling down in Indonesia, his home for almost 12 years. However, like every other relationship, the pair had to overcome some of their differences; a phase they called a roller coaster ride with lots of strong emotions and passion involved. During the ride, they embraced each other’s strengths, quirks and weaknesses, and used it to their advantage. Its as though Aldo’s firm and organized
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personality – the peanut butter – fluently complimented Solihin’s calm and easygoing attitude – the jelly – became the perfect pair to create undeniable magic in the kitchen. Aside from a love for food, the pair shares the same dedication and drive to continue serving customers with the best quality and flavors of food every single day, so much so that they both do not believe in ‘sick days’. “We make the choice to show up to work even when we are not feeling well because we simply do not feel at ease at home, wondering about how the restaurant is doing,” said the self-taught chef, Solihin, who was born in Depok, Indonesia. “Our hearts and minds are so attached to it that we actually feel better being at work.” The dynamic duo also shared that the secret to maintaining a healthy and effective working environment was through leading the team by example; this includes their shared commitment, dedication and passion for their work as well as their respect for their one another. When asked what they loved doing together during their free time outside work, they both instantly had a fit of laughter. “After being in the same environment with this guy [pointing to his partner-in-crime] for more than 10 hours in a day, I think it is safe to say that we would rather spend time with our families whenever we have some free time – provided there is some free time to spare!” said Aldo humorously. The workmanship, understanding and friendship Aldo and Solihin share behind the counter is quite an inspirational one.
SOCIAL HOUSE First Floor, East Mall Grand Indonesia Jalan MH Thamrin No. 1 Jakarta T: +62 21 23581818 Twitter: @SOCIALHOUSE Facebook: socialhouse
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ADVERTORIAL
ANGELITA WIJAYA
Angelita is the owner of Parisian-themed Angelita Tea Salon and Patisserie in Kerobokan, Badung, Bali. She dreams that one day there might be an Angelita just around the corner for everyone.
Sublime Creations story by TATU HUTAMI photographs by DENNIE RAMON, YOSHUA YANUARD AND AKI
For Bali-based pastry chef Angelita Wijaya, it is important to imbue unique characteristics to each of her creation and create memorable experience in each of them. ANGELITA’S EARLIEST memory of food was the smell of toast and butter from the kitchen waking her from her slumber. “French toast with butter and sugar; I’d had them in most mornings. I loved waking up to the aroma. I also remember mischievously adding a little more sugar each time and being scolded by my mom,” Angelita said. Since an early age, she has always enjoyed watching people work in the kitchen, especially her mother. “Watching her bake some cakes, cookies and any other treats for us made me very curious. Overtime, she allowed me to join her in nurturing this hobby. I remember feeling a sense of enjoyment and having so much fun.” After earning her bachelor
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degree from Macquarie University, Australia, Angelita decided to pursue her passion for food and learn more about creating different pastries at Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts. After completing of her Cordon Bleu training, she worked at Adriano Zumbo’s patisserie in Sydney before returning to Bali in 2012. “I got so excited when I learned and made new creations. My mentors were definitely my chef teachers from the schools and workshops that I’ve attended. Under their guidance, I developed the drive to perfect my craft and openness in absorbing the insights and inspiration from other chefs around the world. I love how committed they are to developing their skills,
creating breathtaking delights and nurturing passion for what they do.” In 2014, with the support of her family, Angelita created her own Parisian-themed patisserie in Kerobokan, Bali. In every creations she makes, she aims to create different characteristics, flavors and designs. “Flavor combination is very important to me, so I invest lots of effort and time to improving this. At Angelita Tea Salon and Patisserie, we’re committed to creating memorable ‘wow’ moments in every creation. I feel it’s important and valuable to keep improving our processes and creations.” Angelita loves working with Elle & Vire Professionnel® Sublime cream with Mascarpone. Among the dishes
she created with the product was Sunset gateaux. “I’ve always been a fan of oranges because of its acidity and sweet taste. Milk chocolate is the other main ingredient that perfectly compliments the gateaux - it is a perfect partner to the exotic taste of oranges.” She used Sublime cream on the orange chantilly, adding some zest from one of her favorite fruits to give it the extravagant flavor and scent of orange. “I was inspired to create a cake that is light and enjoyable for the palate. It has the sourness from the orange as well as sweetness from the chocolate. Each feature of these ingredients does not overpower the other, hence making it a delightful and delicious creation.”
I was inspired to create a cake that is light and enjoyable for the palate.
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ADVERTORIAL
EDWIN SOERYAJAYA
Edwin co-founded and operates Ambrogio Patisserie, one the latest hip pastry shop and family restaurants in Bandung, one of the most important creative hubs in Indonesia.
Pastry chef and restaurateur Edwin Soeryajaya was about to pursue a career in finance, when the culinary calling took him on a journey into the the world of pastry. EDWIN HAS LOVED cooking ever since he was a kid. Little Edwin played with various ingredients to make fried rice dishes which he then served for himself and his family. The love of cooking continued into his college days in Singapore when he found himself in the kitchen more often and cooked more creatively than he ever imagined. After numerous experimentation with dishes and ingredients, Edwin convinced himself that he should pursue a study in culinary, especially pastry, abandoning his original plan to go into finance. “After finishing my finance study, I went back home to Indonesia and for two months I was thinking of pursuing culinary study. I thought that I needed to learn pastry more seriously and that I had to get to know the basics,” said Edwin who listed chocolate and butter as his favorite ingredients. Edwin landed a spot at Le Cordon Bleu Institute
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of Culinary Arts in Sydney, Australia, and graduated in 2013. From there, he started researching and working at his test kitchen before opening his own restaurant, Ambrogio Patisserie, in his hometown of Bandung in West Java earlier this year. It took him more than two years to prepare for his own place. “Initially, I estimated it would only take a year of preparation before opening, but it turned out that there were so much to do and plan. It was intended to just be a pastry shop but with the suggestions from my parents, I decided to serve big meals there as well.” Edwin explained his pastry concept as using all the best natural ingredients, aiming for the great taste of the cakes first before the visuals and presentation. He used to experiment with chocolate, but nowadays he is focusing his time on developing a series of fruitbased pastries. His latest
creation was Strawberry Pistachio Mascarpone Eyeballs with layers of strawberry glaze, creamy mousse mascarpone, strawberry confit and pistachio biscuit. He said strawberry and pistachio made a good pair with the mascarpone giving the dish a good balance through its texture and body. “I’m using Elle & Vire Professionnel® Sublime cream with Mascarpone because it has the right texture without being too creamy. It is light and doesn’t feel heavy at all. Most Indonesians don’t like to eat cream but this cream is perfect. I have been also using other products from Elle & Vire®: butter, cooking cream, cheese, almost everything.” Asked about his plan in the future, Edwin said he was still trying to understand the food scene and the market in Bandung, while channeling all his energy to Ambrogio Patisserie and hoping to be able to expand the business exponentially.
I’m using Elle & Vire Professionnel® Sublime cream with Mascarpone because it has the right texture without being too creamy. It is light and doesn’t feel heavy at all.
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ADVERTORIAL
FARID AL FAROUK AND CLÉMENT NADEAU
Farid is the pastry chef of Fairmont Jakarta, while Chef Clément Nadeau is a pastry chef of La Maison de la Crème Elle & Vire®.
A collaboration introduces classy pastries for the discerning guests at Fairmont Jakarta. IN EARLY MARCH, La Maison de la Crème Elle & Vire® had a collaboration with the pastry department of Fairmont Jakarta. Chef Clément Nadeau, Pastry Chef at La Maison de la Crème Elle & Vire®, was sharing recipes to Fairmont Jakarta pastry chef Farid Al Farouk. They worked together to create beautiful pastries that they believed would catch everyone’s eyes. “Elle & Vire® is continuously developing new kind of recipes. For this collaboration, we have three new recipes that we want to
share with Fairmont Jakarta,” said Clément. The recipes were for entremets bora-bora, cheesecake Riviera, and fresh pear and elderflower yule log. The first one, the entremets bora-bora, was made from biscuit as its base with lots of pineapple and coconut mousse on top. The poached pineapple and pineapple compote were combined with the coconut, offering tropical flavors. The second cake was cheesecake Riviera. It had two biscuit discs sandwiching the cheesecake in the middle. The cheesecake itself had cassis
filling with raspberry and lemon flavors, topped with cream and fruits. The cake provided a contrast of textures and sweet and sour flavor combination. The third cake, the fresh pear and elderflower yule log, offered a feast for the eyes and the palate. It had dominant red color on both sides with different kind of layers in the middle. The cake had a lingering fragrant and offered a great combination of pear, elderflower, and yuzu flavors. The fresh pear and elderflower cake was Farid’s personal favorite. “When I looked at the recipes for the
first time, I was really curious about this cake. This cake has a flavor combination that I have never tried before,” said Farid. The pastry chef said that he and his team would explore the recipes further and might do something different to create more cakes based on the recipes. “My mentor once told me that pastry is like fashion; we have to learn on how to mix and match ingredients, exploring the endless possibilities of different feel and taste.” These pastries are available in May at Fairmont Jakarta’s Sapori Deli outlet.
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FLAVOR SOUVENIRS Now and again, retro food has its moments in culinary circles, as gourmands and chefs delve into the past to breathe fresh life into timeworn classics. Foods go in and out of style; dishes that seemed to be everywhere several decades ago could fall out of fashion for many reasons. Even the most venerable classic dishes can end up on the ropes when prepared poorly by too many cooks for too long, but when a dish is rediscovered — or reinvented — it can easily work its way back into the culinary lexicon. So maybe it’s a good thing to take a trip down culinary memory lane every once in a while; who knows what will surprise you!
COVER COVER FEATURE STORY
SEAN’s
Blast from the Past story by TATU HUTAMI photographs by DENNIE RAMON
Sean Macdougall, executive chef at The Ritz-Carlton Jakarta, Pacific Place, looked back to yesteryear to recreate some food gems.
THERE IS something sentimental, temporary and fragile about food. The taste, smell, and texture of food evaporates into a certain place and setting. You had it, ate it, it went through your stomach and what remains are profound memories. Chef Sean claims to be a country boy. He was raised with meat in various forms, veggies and carbs. His parents and grandparents all came from farms and they could cook well; they would use all parts of cow, lamb and poultry carcasses. His family would grow some of their own veggies; they also had stone fruit all year round, homemade tomato sauce, lemon curd, and others. “I was raised in Busselton, Western Australia, then a seaside country town which has now just turned into a city at the edge of the Margaret
River wine region. “We were lucky to live on the edge of town, we had access to bushland behind our house, 19 acres of farm paddocks on the other side to hoon around on motorbikes and the beach was only a 15-minute bicycle ride away,” said Sean. When asked about some of the most famous dishes of the past decades, he quickly went into reminiscing mode. “Thinking of the 1970s give me flashbacks of garlic prawns, prawn cocktails, chateaubriand; can you tell I enjoyed my prawns? I also remember savory recipes with pineapples being bandied about,” he said. People tend to look at the past through rose-tinted glasses, but Sean was happy to see the savory pineapple to stay behind. “Keep the pineapples fresh and served with lime!”
For the 1980s, he recalled cajun blackened seafood, soup served in bread bowls and pasta primavera, while in the 1990s, he remembereds sloppy joes, crockpot cooking, many dips, and of course chicken Kiev, bombe Alaska and mushroom vol au vent. “I read of chefs using crockpots at home, putting the ingredients in before heading off to work and coming back to a slow food dinner; this appeals to me,” Sean said, underlining that crockpot cooking was a good idea to revive nowadays. For FoodieS, he recreated a set of dishes that aim to take you back to the era with certain memories of occasions and people. The first dish reflected the love affair between Sean and prawns. Prawn cocktail is a classic dish made from crisp lettuce, poached prawns
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COVER COVER FEATURE STORY
THE RITZ-CARLTON JAKARTA, PACIFIC PLACE SCBD, Jalan Jendral Sudirman Kav. 52-53, Jakarta www.ritzcarlton.com T: +62 21 25501888 Faceboook: ritzcarlton Twitter: @ritzcarlton Instagram: @ritzcarlton 50
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COVER COVER FEATURE STORY
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and tangy cocktail sauce. His version was made from a zesty mango and avocado salsa on the bottom and poached prawns topped with lime, dressed with shaved fennel on top and some fried tempe for crunch. The second was a reworked version of vol au vent: the traditional creamy mushroom sauce was replaced with sauteed king oyster mushrooms with garlic, cognac, basil and some jus in a pastry case topped with an olive oil poached ocean trout
with a carrot sauce. The third dish was a chicken Kiev. The dish is typically a garlic butter roll wrapped in a flattened chicken breast, breaded and fried, and then served sizzling. Sean made it more exotic, his version had garlic butter with kemangi and a touch of sambal, served up with green pea puree and beetroot red wine glaze, with pretzel crumbs added. To complete the set, he made bombe Alaska: an old classic of layered sponge and ice cream, coated in a
thermal protector of meringue, caramelized in the oven. “Tying in a 1960s evergreen Tim Tam biscuit combination: chocolate biscuit, chocolate ice cream, vanilla ice cream, and chocolate and white meringue. Pram, our pastry chef, wanted to serve it on rocks! So we made chocolate pebbles,” explained Sean of his last dish. In the words of George Bernard Shaw, “There is no love more sincere than the love of food.” Yes, the love of food is sincere as it takes you to a certain moment in your life.
“There is no love more sincere than the love of food.”
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COVER COVER FEATURE STORY
JACOB’s
Memory Lane story by TATU HUTAMI photographs by DANNY AW
Attarine Executive Chef Jacob Burrell takes pride in his experience and love of working with local suppliers and seasonal ingredients to create original and authentic cuisine. It is hard to imagine that he used to be a picky eater, which all changed when he started working in the kitchen. “I WAS A chronic picky eater. I used like to eat broccoli and radishes. I wouldn’t touch seafood. I like bread and cheese. I was pretty tall and super skinny when I was younger. I think because of that, my mom was kind of very generous to me. She always saying ‘you need to eat.’ I was really picky and she would cook something else for me,” said Jacob, reminiscing about his childhood. His attitude to food changed when he hits his 20s. At that time, Jacob had already
worked in a kitchen. He was not eating much and was super skinny. He would spent most of the day chopping carrots. He was surviving the days only by eating noodles. “There was a big buffet in a restaurant where I worked. There was a senior cook, he would give me some food. I think it was linguini and I was asking what is this – I was still picky at that time. He just said, ‘just eat, it’s good.’ So I ate that, very quickly because I still had work. Toward at the end, I realized it was seafood, things
that normally I wouldn’t touch, let alone eating it. And at that point, I said to myself, it tasted pretty good and it changed me. I was even questioning myself, why I didn’t eat certain stuff when I was a kid.” When asked to recreate retro food, Jacob created a series of dishes that he likes to eat. The first dish is a staple, creamed spinach. Back when he was younger, the food came in frozen boxes and he just need to microwave it if he want to eat it. Jacob put his favorite brocolli as the main character. He shaved the broccoli very thinly and used milk-based sauce with cheese, a little bit of yogurt and a little bit of parmesan. He added a whole boiled onion to strengthen the flavor. The second dish is an old fashioned omelette but he turned it into sophisticated souffle involving a lot of techniques. Jacob claimed that he always had a soft spot for omlettes. He remembered he used to work in a kitchen
where all the ingredients were taken from the restaurant’s farm. “We served this omelette whenever someone important came in. We got the eggs directly and we also made the butter and seasalt. It is very simple; egg, seasalt, and butter. But of course, the technique is more complicated.” Then comes chicken a la king, which is basically chicken and vegetables with a white gravy sauce, usually served with bread. Jacob used a chicken stock base instead of milk. This adds more flavor and makes for fancier presentation. The last dish takes its inspiration from a dessert that he used to drink after school. He described it as half milkshake and half smoothie. There was a beverage sold by a chain juice shop he liked, made from orange juice blended with milk and egg powder. This time, Jacob used coconut milk and mango, reflecting his love for seasonal ingredients to create original and authentic cuisine.
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COVER COVER FEATURE STORY
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COVER COVER FEATURE STORY
Attarine Jalan Gunawarman No. 11A Jakarta T: +6221 2277 1256 www.attarine.com Instagram: @attarinejakarta • April 2017
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KARTINIS COVER IN THE FEATURE KITCHEN
ACTIVIST
in the Kitchen story by VINCENT VICHIT-VADAKAN
Bo Songvisava is half of the team behind Bo.lan, the Bangkok restaurant that pioneered a more studied approach to Thai cuisine. With her husband Dylan Jones, she defends Thai tastes, indigenous ingredients, traditional crafts and cooking techniques and recipes that are fading from memory and disappearing from Thai menus.
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THE WORK OF Bo and Dylan has not gone unnoticed; Bo.lan now sits at No. 19 on the list of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. Bo is a fervent environmentalist and never fails to speak out on issues like the proposed coal plants in the south of Thailand. “Krabi is like the most beautiful place in the world,” she enthused recently. “You have to go to Krabi before the coal plants are built. I try to participate in events when they protest about the coal.” But she knows that opposing the powers that be is an uphill battle. “It’s crazy, it is so slow in Thailand,” she said. She recently drew both praise and fire for taking a stand on non-biodegradable styrofoam ahead of the recent Asia’s 50 Best awards ceremony. In a presentation on spices led by Chef David Thompson, Chef Bo was outraged to see that tasting samples were being laid out for the attendees in foam boxes that would litter the landscape for 400 years or more. When offered the mic during the demonstration, she seized the opportunity to deliver a colorful, expletivefilled harangue that cannot be reprinted in polite company. Some were taken aback and off the record organizers expressed their dismay at what was seen as a very personal,
inappropriate attack. Chef Bo publicly and privately apologized for any offense she may have caused, but stood by her principles. “I used the opportunity to grab the mic and take the floor,” she said shortly after the incident. “And that needed to be done.” “At a food event with so many influential chefs, influential press, they should stand up. And if you’re using [foam boxes], I won’t be a part of it.” She reeled off possible alternatives: porcelain plates, banana leaves, biodegradable paper. “Whatever. But I can’t sit down and be quiet. I’m crazy enough, I guess,” she laughed. Yet she did not see her self as an extremist. “I’m not totally eco. Sometimes I still get plastic bags from the market. But if you balance it properly you can use a lot less.” On the subject of foam boxes, however, she was intransigent, even if it was on her own very small scale. When she made TV appearances, she insisted that no foam boxes be used by the caterers for the crew lunches on set. “Or you’re going to find another host. I am not going to stand for it.” Pla too or Thai short-bodied mackerel was an example Chef Bo gave of a product usually sold in the reprehensible containers. But one day she
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saw sparkling specimens at the market and asked if there was an alternative to foam. “It was December,” the height of the season. “I asked the seller and she actually had paper boxes right under her table.” But because they cost 5 baht more, Bo was the first to ever ask for one. “‘Give it to me, I’m going to Instagram you everywhere!’” Of course, she recognized that there are economic realities. “She can’t afford to just give the [paper] box, but finally I got my mackerel without the foam box.” Chef Bo saw a clear solution. “The government has to subsidize it. If you want to use plates made from tapioca or sugar cane byproducts, the government can subsidize that company rather than the coal power plants down south.” Her country can do so much more, she says, pointing to the example of Taiwan.
“Taiwan is my hero. They stopped giving out free bags years ago, like the UK and other places in Europe. I was watching [a TV program] about how Taiwan is going to make everything more green, wind, solar cells, everything. My God, why can’t Thailand do the same?” Bo.lan does its bit. “In the kitchen we use organic as much as possible.” But she doesn’t demand the paperwork that would drive up costs and discourage the farmers. “No certifications needed. I visit the farms and if I trust that they’re doing organic, I buy from them.” Bo.lan uses solar panels and re-uses water. They upcycle used cooking oil and turn it into soap. (“All my chefs hate it because it’s extra work for them.”) Lime zest and salt are transformed into a paste that is used as a cleaning
product. Coconut husks are fermented and sent to farms as organic pig feed to Produce the pork that is served in the restaurant. “We’re trying to be carbon footprint free by 2018, so all these activities are trying offset the gas we use for cooking or the plastic bags from the market because we still have some coming in.” Chef Bo has no doubts that it’s a fight worth fighting. “Without nature, I can’t cook. And that’s my life.” Defending the environment ensures that “I always have such good things to cook with.” Bo and Dylan will take part in the Ubud Food Festival 2017 in Ubud, Bali. They will take over Will Meyrick’s Hujan Locale kitchen on May 13 and participate in a number other events. For details and bookings, go to www. ubudfoodfestival.com.
“Without nature, I can’t cook. And that’s my life. I always have such good things to cook with.”
BO.LAN 4 Sukhumvit 53 Alley Khwaeng Khlong Tan Nuea Khet Watthana Krung Thep Maha Nakhon 10110 Thailand T: +66 2 260 2962 www.bolan.co.th Facebook: Bolan Twitter: @Bolan_Thai UBUD FOOD FESTIVAL www.ubudfoodfestival.com Twitter: @ubudfoodfest Instagram: @ubudfoodfest Facebook: UbudFoodFestival • April 2017
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EXPLORER in the Kitchen story by YOSUA YANUARD photographs by ARZAK
Elena Arzak oversees the day-to-day operations of her family’s restaurant, Arzak, as it continues to push the boundaries of nueva cocina vasca (new Basque cooking).
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ARZAK, the first Basque establishment to be awarded three Michelin stars, returned to the list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants at No. 30 this year. “Obviously nobody wants to be lower on any list but just having a place on the list is fantastic. We are more than pleased. Everybody on that list is very good,” Elena said after the list announcement recently. She saw the list as a reflection of the current flow of the culinary world. “It is a world that is constantly moving, tasting and looking for new gastronomic experiences. It has a lot of power,” she said. The force of food is something Elena knows very well. Born into a family that has cooking in its blood, she is destined to succeed her father, the world-renowned Juan Mari, in the family’s business. Despite her parents’ efforts to dissuade her, Elena was determined to pursue her gastronomic calling since an early age. As a tween, she
would to go straight into the restaurant kitchen on her return from school to do preparation work like peeling oranges or cleaning squid. As a young adult, she traveled across Europe, educating herself through academic and vocational training in catering schools and prestigious restaurants. Among the European restaurants she worked at were Le Gavroche in London, Troisgros in Roanne, and Carré des Feuillants and Vivarois in Paris, as well as some short stays at the Restaurant Louis XV in Montecarlo, Antica Osteria di Ponte Cassineta di Lugano, elBulli and Pierre Gagnaire in París. In the mid 1990s, she returned home and joined the staff at Arzak. In 1998, she started to manage the Arzak kitchen on an equal footing with her father. They are now inseparable, working, exploring and creating together. With only a few other women in Michelin history, Elena Arzak has maintained the restaurant’s three Michelin stars
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for years. In 2012, she earned the Veuve Clicquot “Female Chef of the Year” award. “Statistically there are still fewer women [than men in the culinary world]. But this will change. It just needs time. In Asia, for example, women are very important in all parts of the kitchen,” she said. The Arzaks like to describe the cuisine offered at their restaurant as “singular, Basque, evolving, research-based and avant-garde”. Not surprising, since Elena really brings out all her creative potential in the testing kitchen, where she collaborates with her dad in devising new recipes, experiments with surprising
combinations and works on textures which she then transfers to the table. Arzak’s extensive offering includes multiple tasting menus and à la carte, with specialties such as the Red Space Egg with a skin of red peppers, pig trotters and mushrooms, and seabass served on top of a tablet computer with moving images of the sea. A special feature of many of the dishes is the crunchy element – dishes such as Big Chocolate Truffle with candyfloss, carob, cacao and chocolate have a range of textures, including the signature crunch. Elena is as excited as ever to bring the family restaurant
forward. “This year we are celebrating 120 years of Arzak! This is a powerhouse of ideas. We are still traveling and going to food congresses, consulting and many other social projects. However, we never forget the main player which is our cuisine,” she said. Always searching for new ways of cooking in their kitchen, the Arzaks invent 60 new elements each year, from appetizers to dishes, garnishes and chocolates; the list goes on and on. “We want our clients to be delighted and surprised every time they visit,” Elena summarized.
“Statistically there are still fewer women [than men in the culinary worl]. But this will change. It just needs time. In Asia, for example, women are very important in all parts of the kitchen.” ARZAK Av Alcalde Elósegui, 273 20015 San Sebastián Guipúzcoa, Spain www.arzak.es/en T: +34 943 27 84 65 Twitter: @ArzakRestaurant Instagram: @arzakrestaurant
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COVER FOOD FEATURE FIGHT
MODERN
MARTABAK story by YOSUA YANUARD photographs by YOSUA YANUARD
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The all-time favorite Indonesian snack has been revisited and given a twist of creativity for the new generation. Let’s take a good look at two of the best new martabak dishes that are currently on the rise.
MARTABAK ORINS – CABANG GONDANGDIA Jalan Taman Cut Meutia Menteng, Jakarta T: +62 813 1716 1705 www.martabakorins.com
MARKOBAR – CABANG CIKINI Jalan Raden Saleh Raya No. 39 Cikini, Jakarta T: +62 857 7767 3627
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COVER FOOD FEATURE FIGHT MARTABAK CAN BE found anywhere in the archipelago; it’s the go-to evening snack for many and a sinful midnight bite for us here at FoodieS. It is adapted from Middle Eastern cuisine, called mutabbaq in Saudi Arabia or murtabak in India, a stuffed pancake or panfried bread. It’s one of the great street foods available before dusk, a guilty pleasure that you cannot resist if you have ever had it. We have two types of martabak here in Indonesia, savory and sweet. The savory martabak is made from duck and chicken eggs, mixed with flour, salt, pepper, minced meat, chopped scallions, onions and garlic. It is then fried to golden perfection and served with spicy sauce, ready to be devoured. The sweet martabak, also known as terang bulan, is a concentrated sin for anyone with a sweet tooth. Made from a mixture of eggs, flour, salt, baking soda and lots of sugar, it is cooked in an iron pan until it has a thin solid skin not unlike a thick pancake. While the surface is still warm, soft and fluffy, a massive amount of toppings like chocolate sprinkles, peanuts, grated cheese and condensed milk are added. Split in half, then one half folded onto the other, it is finished with a generous brush of margarine for extra sin. A new generation of vendors are now selling an open, unfolded martabak, which they call martabak pizza, comparing the classing form of martabak to a calzone. This style of serving allows for visually neater presentation and dare we say a more decadent amount of toppings. There are two rising vendors currently making names for themselves in Jakarta: Martabak Orins and Markobar. Both specialize in martabak pizza and have several shops in Jakarta. Now, we will try to compare both
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of their special menu items to get an insight into the size, price, topping and, of course, the taste. We ordered Martabak Orins special large size and the Markobar eight-flavor dish, which are similar in price and size, but have different flavors to offer. Size-wise, the Orins dish was 24.5 centimeters (cm) in diameter, while Markobar’s option was 21 cm. It sounds like a small difference, but visually it’s a lot. The Markobar one is cut into eight triangular slices just like a pizza, with each topping on each slice, while the martabak from Orins is sliced into more than 14 square pieces. These cuts make it easy for you to enjoy them with friends, or by yourself – we’re not judging. The Orins dish cost Rp 89,000, quite good value for money considering the quantity. Markobar, smaller in diameter, is Rp 3,000 more expensive. Admittedly, Markobar uses more expensive ingredients for the toppings: like chocolate sprinkles from Ceres, Toblerone, Delfy chocolate, Silverqueen, Nutella, Kitkat, Cadbury dairy milk, and Kraft cheese. Orins, however, offers previously unheard of toppings like raisins and sweet corn. These go so well together with the classic toppings of cheese, chocolate sprinkles and ground peanuts. The corn is especially great with the condensed milk taste and the sweet fluffy pancake. On the martabak base, we think Orins did a better job on texture and taste, while Markobar went with a denser texture and less flavoring on the base. This round, for us, went to Martabak Orins for its price to size ratio, toppings and taste. The prettier and fancier Markobar, however, could be the perfect company for your next Netflix and chill session.
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HAPPY HOUR
Manhattan Takes Over
NAUTILUS photographs by DENNIE RAMON
In its latest edition, the Nautilus Take Over series invites Philip Bischoff, bar manager at the award winning Manhattan Bar at Regent Singapore, A Four Seasons Hotel, to be the special guest bartender. BORN IN BERLIN, Germany, Bischoff’s first foray into bartending began 11 years ago as a 23-year-old. His first professional stint was as a bartender at the Felix Club Restaurant, which provided him with travel opportunities and greater exposure to the cocktail scene, eventually leading him to Switzerland for a year in 2006, before returning to Germany in 2007. “Bartending for me comes through passion. I never had the skills from the start or knew anything about it. But I discovered it and I found myself really liking it. I enjoyed watching people and being that person behind the bar, just observing and being part of moments in other people’s lives. That was when I decided I was going into this with 100 percent or not at all,” said Philip. He then moved to turning out cocktails at Le Lion – Bar de Paris, which was awarded Best New International Bar at Tales of the Cocktail. His career then took him to Amano Bar as the bar manager and under his stewardship, the bar was awarded Best Hotel Bar and Bar Team at the Mixology Bar Awards in Berlin. 72
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At Manhattan, the world’s first in-hotel rickhouse, Philip leads his team to deliver on the bar’s name with a glamorous yet modern space reminiscent of old New York: craft bartending meets artisanal spirits to pay homage to classic and forgotten cocktails that leap from the pages of history. At the Nautilus Take Over event guests had the opportunity to taste the best of Manhattan, recently named No. 11 among the World’s Best Bars 2016, on March 13 and 14. A number of signature Manhattan cocktails were served, among them Mad Dog (Hell’s Kitchen) and New York Sour. Named after the notorious Irish-American mobsters in the 1900s who were described as “Mad Dog” assassins, the whiskey-based concoction is made with Greenore 8-yearold Irish whiskey, Ferrand Dry orange curaçao, Luxardo Maraschino, Drambuie, absinthe and bitters. Smoked wild cherry bark delivers an aromatic finish that is a nostalgic reminder of the fiery mafia mayhem back in the day. New York Sour, on the other hand, is a crowd favorite. It is a variation on the classic cocktail,
making use of house-made lavender-maple syrup. Andreana Soh, director of public relations and communication at Regent Singapore, said the taking over event encouraged collaborations between industry partners, guest distillers and bartenders from all over the world, providing an opportunity for trade professionals and cocktail aficionados to share their knowledge and passion for the craft, no matter where they are in the world. “It is also great that we can have these opportunities to showcase the Manhattan experience – exemplary Four Seasons service, craft cocktails of classics with a twist and [sometimes] delicious bar bites,” she said.
“Bartending for me comes through passion. I never had the skills from the start or knew anything about it. But I discovered it and I found myself really liking it.”
NAUTILUS BAR Four Seasons Hotel Jakarta Jalan Jend. Gatot Subroto Kav. 18, Jakarta T: +62 21 22771888 www.fourseasons.com/jakarta Twitter: @FSJakarta Facebook: FourSeasonsHotelJakarta Instagram: @fsjakarta
HAPPY HOUR
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FOODIE CONFIDENTIAL
STORY in A Box
After finishing her study in London, Metha Trisnawati came back to Jakarta and bumped into SayurBox, a platform for customers to order produce direct from farmers. Metha shares her journey building SayurBox while reminiscing about her favorite childhood food.
story by TATU HUTAMI photographs by HOSHINOYA KYOTO
METHA WAS excited when she met with SayurBox founders Amanda Cole and Rama Notowidigdo, who were building the farm-totable business supporting local farmers and helping consumers to get highquality fresh produce called SayurBox. “It tickled me because as a consumer, this was a problem I had myself too – it was challenging to find quality fresh organic produce here in Jakarta. So it’s a real problem that they’re trying to solve through SayurBox and I decided to get involved in helping out,” explained Metha. Through SayurBox people can get good-quality, organic, hydroponic, pesticide-free, and chemical-free produce directly from the farmers who grow it, making the concept of farm-to-table possible for everyone. The goods are sourced directly from local farmers who are paid a fair price for their work and the reward is given back through the love they put into growing the food. SayurBox harvests and delivers products from their partner farmers twice a week. Currently they are delivering to areas within Jakarta and South Tangerang. This movement, according to Metha, was
aligned with the enthusiasm found in the Indonesian food scene. “I’ve seen many Indonesian culinary capitals that are emerging. What excites me is that there has also been a blossoming in the raw, vegan, and health-conscious food scene recently.” Metha describes herself as a Balinese girl despite never living in Bali. Growing up, she was brought up in several different cities across Indonesia but she was heavily influenced by Balinese culture and heritage from her family, especially in terms of food. She loves exploring the food scene in Ubud, Bali. She said that right now Ubud is filled with a great mix of gourmet cuisine, coffee experiences, casual dining as well as raw and vegan culinary offerings. “I can’t help but love spices! I loved to indulge myself in rich-tasting cuisine growing up, but I’m balancing my food obsession with clean eating,” said Metha. “My earliest food memory – well, Balinese food! The fragrant, savory, and rich tasting spices in Balinese cuisine probably shaped my taste preferences growing up,” added Metha, who also proclaimed her love for sweets.
SAYURBOX www.sayurbox.com T: +62 8191954454 Instagram: @sayurbox
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FOODIE CONFIDENTIAL
ICHIRO’s Kaiseki Experience story by TATU HUTAMI photographs by HOSHINOYA KYOTO
Being a chef seems like a destined path for Hoshinoya Kyoto Executive Chef Ichiro Kubota. His father was head chef at one of the most renowned restaurants in Kyoto’s Gion district. His grandparents loved to cook and eat, and often took young Ichiro on food adventures.
“OF COURSE there is an influence from my father. I’m looking after him and I’m always together with him. I look at him cooking. Aside from his influence, my grandfather from my mother’s side also influenced me. He is a dentist; in my mother’s family, everybody is a dentist. It is a compeletely different world. My grandfather loved to cook and to eat; whenever I went to his place, he’d always take me to a different kind of restaurant.” When he was 4 years old, Ichiro was once taken to a French restaurant named Rose Room located in the Hiroshima Grand Hotel by his grandfather. He was captivated by the dynamic, graceful way in which the chefs prepared the meals. The memory of eating Pottage Soup stuck with him, leading him to become one of the most influential chefs of his generation. Ichiro began his training under the supervision of his father and top Osaka establishments before heading abroad. He landed a gig in Corsica, where he learned a great deal of Mediterranean cooking. Soon after that, he was on his way to France and was discovered by restaurateur Marlon Abela to lead Umu
in London, which opened in 2004. At the age of 31, five months after UMU’s opening, Kubota earned his first Michelin star. After honing his skills abroad, Ichiro bounced back to Kyoto and was tasked with creating a unique yet traditional dish that reflected a kaiseki experience: an intricate, multicourse meal which is a specialty of Kyoto dining. Ichiro created a set of foods that paid tribute to the weather and Kyoto’s traditions. “Japanese cuisine is inspired by its seasons. There is an ideology about each season. In spring we enjoy the bitterness, in summer we enjoy the coolness, in autumn, we enjoy the aroma, in winter, we enjoy the warmth. Japanese cuisine is also created by two kinds of categories: culture and history. Each month we have a ritual ceremony according to Buddhism and Shintoism. Thus, I have to search for the ingredients which belong to the ritual ceremony.” The result is a festive set of menu items consisting of green sprouts, bamboo shoots, fresh seafood, chicken and beef. The most interesting dish created is the hassun – an assorted seasonal amuse
HOSHINOYA KYOTO 11-2 Arashiyama Genrokuzancho Nishikyo Ward, Kyoto Kyoto Prefecture 616-0007, Japan www.hoshinoyakyoto.jp/en T: +81 570-073-066
bouche. It is a plate of seven small dishes consisting of all the elements of mountains, lakes and rivers. These dishes require dozens of seasonal ingredients
and Ichiro had to go to great lengths to create the dishes as he didn’t want to use the same ingredients as he did last year. For him, kaiseki should be rich, yet satisfying to enjoy.
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THE CLASSICS
Vineth Bakery:
SURVIVING THE ODDS story by TATU HUTAMI photographs by TATU HUTAMI
Sitting in a nondescript building, very close to the ongoing MRT project in the Panglima Polim area, Vineth Bakery can be easily missed. However, Vineth is a household name with a history spanning three decades and it should not be overlooked. IT WAS NINE in the morning on a public holiday when I arrived for my visit. Already it was packed with people buying cakes, bread and cookies like there was no tomorrow. Vineth Bakery, along with Holland Bakery and Gandy, are the pioneers of modern Indonesian bakeries. Vineth and Holland survived the odds, while Gandy took a step back. Vineth is owned by William Wongso, a renowned Indonesian culinary expert. Established in 1977 by his father-in-law, Vineth opened its first store in Samanhudi, Central Jakarta. Many of the cakes were based on recipes originally devised for Western expatriates. In 1980, the bakery, which was named after William’s niece, moved to Jl. Panglima Polim to more suitable market. It seemed odd to indulge
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in cultural nostalgia in a city filled with forgotten history. I might belong to a generation where I can only read or see these things in books and old photographs. Odd or not, there I was, eating cake. I denied my urge to chomp down and ate slowly. I was dissecting the Japonaise Cake with the edge of my fork to observe the layers. I paid attention to what was in it: the mocha ice cream and crumbs of biscuit. I also tried the classic croissant with chocolate filling, vanilla Berliner, tiger cake which resembled marble cake, brioche and schweizer zunge. The ones that had a lasting impression for me were the Japonaise Cake and Au Pan Chocolate. Vineth actually has a younger sibling in a different form, a restaurant named Warung. Located upstairs and with just few steps, you will see a different style from Vineth. It is a spacious room decorated with historical elements such as paintings, old utensils and other wares, books and wood.
Tia Wongso, William Wongso’s daughter, said Warung used to be a private place for people to fine dine but starting from March, it was opened to the
public. Warung is 10 years younger than Vineth. The menu at Warung mainly focuses on Indonesian food such as Nasi
Rendang Bebek, Miitem AOP, and Nasi Jengkol Merah. Both Vineth and Warung sell simple, straightforward food but stay true to their roots and history.
VINETH BAKERY Jalan Panglima Polim Raya No. 63-65, Jakarta T: +62 21 7244911 Instagram: @vinethbakery
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BOLD Bar Ware FINE DINING
photograph by TOM DIXON
ENJOY A COLD pint in style with this Tank beer glass from Tom Dixon. Made from mouth-blown glass, this set of two is finished with contemporary copper detailing, perfect for adding subtle design to a table. To complete the look, coordinate with matching glassware available separately. The Tank Series by Tom Dixon is bar ware that is designed to turn heads. Each piece is hand painted with copper and features a sand blasted logo on the base. The effect is dramatic and instantly classic. Each piece in the series, which includes a high ball glass, low ball glass, decanter and jug, is of generous proportions.
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