FoodieS - March 2016 Issue

March 2016

Vol. 01 • Issue 01

NOODLES, NOODLES Chef Akira Back Cooks for Us There’s Something About GIA Bakmi Adventures Best Bolognese

JAKARTA, LIKE YOU’VE NEVER SEEN IT

Jl. Jl. Asia Asia Afrika Afrika No.8, No.8, Gelora Gelora Bung Bung Karno, Karno, Senayan, Senayan, Jakarta, Jakarta, Indonesia Indonesia 10270 10270 T. T. +62 +62 (21) (21) 2970 2970 3333 3333 || F. F. +62 +62 (21) (21) 2970 2970 3334 3334 www.fairmont.com/jakarta www.fairmont.com/jakarta

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

THE PUBLISHER’s NOTE March 2016

NOODLES, NOODLES I GREW UP eating lots of noodles. Of course my favorite was spaghetti. Spaghetti is one of the most beloved foods in the Philippines, especially by kids. No birthday party is complete without it.

When you say you want to eat spaghetti, by default it is comes with a tomato based meat sauce, which I equate to a Bolognese. But unlike Italian spaghetti Bolognese, Filipino spaghetti runs on the sweet side because of added sugar and sometimes ketchup. Some recipes include sliced hotdog or Vienna sausage instead of, or in addition to ground beef. I love it. And still do. Of course now, I have my own Bolognese recipe which is on the sour, Italian side. For those of you who are interested, I’ve shared it on page 40.

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March 2016 •

We also ate lots of pancit or rice noodles. There are a myriad flavors and toppings.

My favorite is pancit palabok: rice noodles smothered with a thick, golden sauce flavored with shrimps, crushed pork rind, flaked smoked fish and topped with hard-boiled eggs and freshly chopped spring onions. Just thinking about these noodle dishes is making me hungry.

Now that I live in Indonesia, I have adopted the local noodle dishes as my own. I now also crave bakmi, mie goreng and mie ayam on a regular basis. It doesn’t stop there, I also love ramen and pho. So it was a no-brainer to come up with a Noodle Issue.

Food lore dictates that noodles represent longevity and prosperity, that’s why

the Chinese are known to eat noodles on their birthday and that noodles are always served at birthday celebrations.

Fitting it seems, as we launch FOODIES. I hope you have an amazing time reading through our maiden issue. I also wish that by the time you finish reading, hunger pangs are in full swing!

We’d love to hear from you.

Let us know what you think of this issue.

Happy eating!

Jed V. Doble Publisher @jed.doble

OUR GUESTS

MANPALAGUPTA SITORUS Managing Director

JED V. DOBLE Publisher SAHIRI LOING Associate Editor

HIMAWAN SUTANTO

JUKE BACHTIAR Creative Director

Venturing outside his comfort zone of office life, Sahiri now spends his time working as a freelance writer for the fun part of life. His love of movies and dining out keeps him busy in his spare time.

DENNIE RAMON

Head Photographer

SAHIRI LOING

Associate Editor

Photographer

RIAN FARISA

Himawan did portraiture for editorial, advertising and design clients for many years and also had a stint doing commercial photography. His love for food and travel brought him naturally to turn his lens on food and lifestyle which he thoroughly enjoys. He has recently been traveling to take photos for a global hotel chain. When not away shooting photos he tries to spend as much time with his newborn son.

His years spent food blogging and writing for notable publications such as Time Out Jakarta, Jakarta Post, mise en place, several in-flight magazines, and now FOODIES - has actually brought him to one realization. That even after countless of encounters with great chefs, delicious recipes, and fine-dining establishments; nothing beats good kaki lima treats or his beloved wife’s cooking at the end of the day.

Blog: gastronomy-aficionado.com IG: @gastronomy.aficionado

Writers

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March 2016 •

Editor

Editor

GUPTA SITORUS AND PRIMO RIZKY This dynamic duo has always had a strong passion for food. They decided to enter the culinary industry in 2012 by launching their handcrafted gourmet ice cream brand, although none of them had prior culinary experience. Both have day jobs, Gupta works as country communications manager for the global leader in power and automation technologies, while Primo, heads Studio Geometry, an independent publishing house that focuses on creative culture.

RIAN FARISA HIMAWAN SUTANTO PRIMO RIZKY SEBASTIAN SUBAKTI Ritter Willy PutrA Contributors

BOEDY ASTUTI Office Manager

Mukti PelupessY Distribution Assistant

JIRI HERA Cover Photographer

Ritter Willy PutrA Illustrator

Sebastian SubaktI Writer

Born in a food-conscious family, Sebastian was practically raised in the kitchen by his mother. He graduated from a culinary school in Melbourne, while also working long shifts in some of the city’s busiest establishments. Moving back to Jakarta, he took a couple of years off from the kitchen and worked as food editor in the now defunct Time Out Jakarta. These days Sebastian still finds time to write about food as contributor to some publications after finally getting back to where he really belongs, inside the kitchen.

Ritter is currently working on his undergraduate thesis for his Bachelor of Design, major in Graphic Design degree from Multimedia Nusantara University.

While at uni, he is an active student, getting himself involved with some organizations and communities in and out of campus. Nevertheless, he still always makes time to enjoy food, especially his mom’s home cooking.

For advertising inquiries:

info@foodies.id

www.foodies.id

FOODIES is published monthly.

FOODIES and its logo are registered trademarks.

COPYRIGHT 2016 The Publisher reserves the right to accept or reject all editorial and advertising material. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or copied without the explicit written consent of the Publisher. Neither the Publisher, editors and their employees and agents can be held liable for any errors or omissions, nor any action taken based on the views expressed or information provided within this publication. All rights reserved.

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ON THE MENU

50

March 2016 | Vol. 01 | Issue 01

NOODLES, NOODLES WE ARE FOODIES 12 | I Love Noodles

OPEN 14 | ST. ALi - Jakarta 18 | PTT Family Opens Akademi and Movida 22 | The Union Group Opens The Dutch at SCBD 24 | Shanghai Baby is the New Home of

Chinoiserie in Bali 26 | Sea Grain Restaurant & Bar opens at the DoubleTree by Hilton Jakarta – Diponegoro 27 | Ruth’s Chris Steak House - Jakarta 28 | House of Yuen Raises Chinese Cuisine to New Heights

ON THE PASS 30 | Oxone Concludes Battle Chef Series 31 | Hilton F&B Masters Competiton Heats Up 32 | Sunday Brunch The Sapori Way

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54

KITCHEN ENVY 34 | Home-Perfect Pasta 35 | Blades of Glory

COVER STORY 38 | A Weekend Bakmi Adventure 40 | Best Bolognese 42 | DO RE MIE – Indonesia’s Most Famous Noodle Dishes 43 | Shopping Cart – A Cuppa Noodles 44 | What’s in a Bowl of Ramen

COVER FEATURE 46 | Vietnam’s The In-Between Meal 50 | There’s Something about GIA 54 | Noodles ala Akira 8

March 2016 •

ON THE MENU

Neighborhood Eats

THE WEEKEND COOK

60 | The Golden Triangle

74 | Modern Mie Ayam

Foodie Confidentials

THE CLASSICS

62 | Complementing Each Other’s

78 | Bandoengsche Melk Centrale

Food Taste

SEARCHING FOR STREET FOOD

66 | Mullie Marlina & Andy Pau

80 | Nasi Bebek Khas Madura Ibu Hamidah 82 | Nasi Gule Pak Lasimin

FOOD HEROES 70 | Bara “The Supercook” Pattiradjawane

74

FOOD TRIP 84 | Our Bangkok Food Adventure

HAPPY HOUR 90 | Top Wine Gift Picks

ON MY PLATE 94 | Chef Susanto - The Street Food Lover

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March 2016 •

WE ARE FOODIES

I NOODLES story by REZA SETIAWAN

Noodles have become my favorite food and I am sure this is the same for many Indonesian as well.

GROWING UP around the city of Bandung, the city where I was born, my parents would always take us for a treat, to enjoy the delicious mie ayam (chicken noodles).

Later on, the introduction of pasta, especially spaghetti bolognaise, had taken over as my new favorite dish after the traditional mie ayam. It was a popular dish amongst many Indonesian back in the 80’s and now, it has become one of the simplest foods that I would even prepare myself when the time allows.

According to history, both the Chinese and the Italians have laid claims to noodles, but whoever invented them, noodles of all varieties from all origins, have maintained their popularity over the centuries and owe their longevity to a combination of being relatively cheap yet nutritious and filling, quick to prepare, can be eaten hot or cold, can be stored for years and can be transported easily.

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March 2016 •

Especially for us Asians, noodles have widely spread as staple food. From the simplest form of instant noodles to the most complicated noodle dishes, they are all definitely win the heart of almost every Asian. In Indonesia alone noodles have also become widely popular through many dishes in almost every part of the nation, from the simple hawker style mie ayam that is sold on almost every street corner of Jakarta, to the more sophisticated and modern style of mie ayam with fancy toppings such as foie gras.

Noodles were introduced into the country by the Chinese traders, it’s a symbol of life and its long shape and not easily broken symbolize longevity and hope. That is why noodles are a must dish during birthdays or New Year’s. One of the most alluring things about noodles: how varied they are.

In China, you have chefs that pull the thinnest of noodles called la mien and bathe them

in a long-simmered beef broth with chili, coriander, and crumbles of meat. This is why, wherever you travel, take some time to go to the Chinatown part of the city and you will find endless shops offering a variety of noodle dishes.

So, all the way from China and throughout Asia, to Italy and throughout Europe, to the United States, noodles have become a staple food. Thus for us Jakartans, we can always make a fun trip to Kota, Pantai Indah Kapuk or Kelapa Gading and choose amongst the many delicious noodle stalls and restaurants that sells the best mie ayam, mie babat (noodles with tripe) or even the mie babi (noodle with pork toppings) depending on your liking and preferences.

So what are you waiting for? Have some noodle and tag your post to my Instagram @rezaeats.

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OPEN

ST. ALi - JAKARTA story by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE RAMON

Jakarta welcomes ST. ALi, one of Melbourne’s finest cafes, as they choose the Indonesian capital as their first Southeast Asian outpost.

ST. ALi - JAKARTA Setiabudi Two, GF, Jalan HR Rasuna Said Jakarta – Indonesia OPENING HOURS: Daily, 7am – 6pm 14

March 2016 •

THE JAKARTA coffee loving crowd got a first glimpse and taste of ST. ALi late 2014 when the Melbourne coffee kings swooped down on the city upon the invitation of Common Grounds.

Little did we know that there was more than just coffee brewing.

So it was glad tidings for Jakartans to hear that specialty coffee shop ST. ALi had taken an interest with the city and it was through their partnership with Common Grounds, that they have recently opened their first ever branch outside of Australia.

Set amidst a corner of Setiabudi Building, ST. ALi’s appearance retains the original Melbournian feel with a semi alfresco concept overlooking the plaza, ready to cater up to a hundred patrons at a time.

There are two separate brewing bars here.

The first one is the espresso bar where the much-loved La Marzocco machine takes residence, and the other one further inside is the Filter Bar where customers can see the baristas showing off their skills at manual brewing.

The early customers were actually very lucky to see ST. ALi’s very own Matt Perger in action. Matt as the Director of Coffee for ST. ALi, is also Australia’s two-time national barista champion and the runner up for World Barista Championship in 2013. Ben Morrow also visited Jakarta again to showcase his skills as latte art champion. Additionally, ST. ALi’s head barista

- Lachlan Ward, is also appointed as the local manager here.

From the kitchen, the funky Chef Mark Richardson presents the best of Melbournian casual eats. From the hearty burgers, steak sandwiches, and the fusion of many genres found in Melbournian brunch fare; he also introduces exciting vegetarian dishes on the lineup.

Colombian finest coffee beans play an important role at ST. ALi. Their signature Colombia, Guatemala, and Brazil beans dominate the blends used for white and black coffee beverages. However on the long run, with Indonesia as its first home base in Asia, there are also plans to cooperate further with Indonesian coffee farmers for a local blend or some single origin or single estate coffees. For the pour-overs, ST. ALi prepares using single origins from Colombia’s El Illanito, Kenya’s Asali, and Ethiopia’s Yirgacheffe. This will certainly cater the palate of the emerging yet discerning coffee drinkers of Jakarta.

The opening of ST. ALi in Jakarta will surely challenges the competition and the existing local and international specialty coffee shops would certainly give their best to level up the game. In turn, it is our hope that not only us coffee aficionados who will get the benefits from this competition, but far beyond, the local farmers in rural Indonesia.

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OPEN

SALVATORE MALATESTA

As the creative force behind ST. ALi Family, Salvatore Malatesta is that one guy who is responsible for the success of the specialty coffee world in Australia and Melbourne in particular. He is now a proud owner of over 88 F&B venues and also a World Barista Accredited judge.

His recipe for success actually comes from an actualization of his profound question that, being born to a half-Italian family who had a good relationship with coffee, he saw that no one appreciated coffee yet back in 1996. So he started his own café – Caffeine, and he fulfilled the gap needed for the public who actually, are the consumers of good coffee.

“In addition to our stand-alone coffee shops; ST. ALi Family now has a large roastery, a training facility run by Ross Quail (GM of Wholesale for ST. ALi), and an online store - all under the Sensory Lab”, explains Salvatore. “As for the coffee itself; we source the green beans from African countries such as Ethiopia, Kenya and Burundi; as well as from South America like Colombia, Brazil, Panama, Guatemala, Costa Rica, and Honduras.”

Under his management, ST. ALi has now been growing outside of Australia and that its reputation is known well throughout the country and internationally as well. Now as the continuation of their pop up café efforts and masterclasses held in London, Seoul, Milan, and Jakarta; ST. ALi opens its doors in Jakarta and readies itself to global domination.

“Next we will have Bali and another one in Jakarta. After that, we are heading to Singapore and Kuala Lumpur. Other than that, we are also preparing for Los Angeles”, shares Salvatore with his friendly huge grin that he shows everywhere he goes.

“Next we will have Bali and another one in Jakarta.

After that, we are heading to Singapore and Kuala Lumpur.

Other than that, we are also preparing for Los Angeles.”

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March 2016 •

MATT PERGER

As one of ST. ALi’s most valued family members, the dashing Matt Perger shares with us a bit about his plans on introducing ST. ALi’s coffee to Indonesia.

“Mainly we are still using the blend from Colombian and Brazilian beans and we are importing it from Australia.

However, we are also working with local roasters for our plan to use Indonesian coffee beans as well”, he shares.

“The challenge is to keep up with the standards that we have in Melbourne here.

We have a very good system and precise methods. Also, everyone is really hungry for what we have here, so that we became busier than what we were expecting”, says Matt undeterred with the challenge and confidently smiles as he put it.

Quality control and his forte in maintaining the consistency as well as the scientific calculations of how coffee should be presented earn him the no-nonsense reputation as an expert who won’t leave anything to chances. That’s the quality that he wants to keep for ST. ALi.

“The challenge is to keep up with the standards that we have in Melbourne here.”

MARK RICHARDSON

As the Executive Chef for ST. ALi - Mark Richardson came to Jakarta to personally oversee everything about the food, it is also time to ask him about what he has to offer hungry Jakartans.

“The food that we’re serving here are the favorites in Melbourne’s ST. ALi and what the Melbournians usually have for their family brunch. Among the must-try dishes are the Mexican Cousins, Koo Koo Ca Choo, and the stick pork salad with lime basil,” says the chef.

What we actually observed was that the corn fritters in the Mexican Cousins are roughly the same with Indonesian perkedel jagung. “Yes, I had that one too. It was really good!”, says Chef Mark, “That’s why we are also developing a crossover between ramen and oxtail soup. It’s still very Melbournian but it has Indonesian style to it as well.”

Chef Mark’s ultimate challenge is actually to cope in with the weather and the adjustment of his recipes due to differences in the ingredients’ characters. “For example, we want to develop more gluten-free menu but the flour here is different for that. There’s always challenge in the kitchen but we are getting there!”, exclaims the chef.

“We are also developing a crossover between ramen and oxtail soup.

It’s still very Melbournian but it has Indonesian style to it as well.”

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OPEN

PTT FAMILY OPENS

AKADEMI AND MOVIDA story by JED DOBLE photographs by PTT FAMILY

AKADEMI Jalan Petitenget No 51B, Seminyak, Bali T: +62 361 302 9999 IG: @akademibar 18

March 2016 •

PTT Family, the group behind the Bali institution Potato Head Beach Club, has opened Akademi created by award-winning bartender and PTT Family Director of Mixology Dre Masso; and MoVida, the acclaimed Spanish restaurant from Australia. Both outlets are located at the lobby of The Katamama, PTT Family’s first hotel.

PTT FAMILY, the group behind the Bali institution Potato Head Beach Club, has opened Akademi created by awardwinning bartender and PTT Family Director of Mixology Dre Masso; and MoVida, the acclaimed Spanish restaurant from Australia. Both outlets are located at the lobby of The Katamama, PTT Family’s first hotel.

Home of Mixology

Akademi is a hub for the world’s most celebrated and innovative mixologists and a center for the craft. It offers patrons a curated selection of unique libations, utilizing the finest local ingredients. The focus of Akademi’s menu is the exploration of Indonesia’s fine tropical offerings. In addition to one of the biggest collection of premium spirits in the country, the bar houses a vast range of infused locally produced arak made from coconut, rice and cane. Dre and his team have worked with island local artisans as well as permaculture experts to grow the best produce on the hotel grounds, all to create drinks that showcase the best of Indonesia.

“In my head, I have a bank of several hundred drinks that I have collected throughout the years. A foundation of over a hundred classic cocktails, plus pretty much every cocktail I have ever created for every bar I have worked for. Know too that everything is a twist on a classic anyways.

This memory bubble helps trigger ideas for me,” Dre shares about his cocktaildesigning process. “I have no set format of how I create new cocktails. I may start off with an objective to create a Spanish cocktail list for MoVida

example, then I may look at a list of Spanish ingredients or the style of MoVida which is fun, accessible, playful and theatrical. At Akademi, we are more academic. Everything we do is a study of flavor or spirit.

I wanted a short list, eight is a good number. It is easy for the bartenders to nail and short enough for a customer to immediately recognize something they know.”

Akademi plans to contemplate, dissect and transform a different indigenous ingredient every month in its quest to innovate while still respecting the local flavors. Akademi is also a learning lab, and will welcome a roster of international mixologists who will explore local flavors and create innovative cocktails as well as help train a new generation of local bartenders to international standards by passing on their knowledge and experience.

Designed by the PTT Family in-house team, Akademi pushes the boundaries of constructability and explores the natural material of terrazzo, which is made locally in Bali.

The Akademi experience is completed with bespoke ceramic, wood and copper cocktail vessels made by local artisans.

“At Akademi, we are more academic.

Everything we do is a study of flavor or spirit.”

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STREET FOOD

MOVIDA BALI Jalan Petitenget No 51B, Seminyak, Bali T: +62 361 302 9940 E: eservations.movida-bali@pttfamily.com IG: @movidabali

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“As part of the culinary approach for our Bali venture we will be tailoring a number of our signature dishes to reflect the tropical landscape – our dishes will still feature distinct MoVida flavours, highlighting the best produce Bali has to offer.”

Spanish Cuisine with an Australian Twist

PTT Family and Frank Camorra of MoVida, the acclaimed Spanish restaurant group from Australia, have partnered on an innovative Bali venture with the launch of MoVida in Seminyak, Bali.

With five establishments in Australia, MoVida is the proven leader of Spanish cuisine throughout the country and has now established its first overseas outlet. Combining MoVida’s blend of traditional and modern Spanish cuisine

and Potato Head’s signature aesthetic with the island’s tropical surrounds, MoVida in Bali showcases the best of its parent companies while presenting brand-new ideas and concepts.

MoVida is an Australian interpretation of a Spanish restaurant. We are a country of immigrants and we have brought various cuisines to Australia. We have made our little tweaks but we retain the soul of the cuisine. Food is important but the feel of the place is equally important.

MoVida is fun, relaxed, informal but still professional, and that is reflected in the food and the venue as well.

Frank moved to Australia when he was four years old, so he had very few food memories from Spain. But he had a lot of great food memories of growing up in Australia. Like all Spanish people, his parents loved food. But when they first moved to Australia, there were a lot of Spanish ingredients that were not available. They couldn’t buy olives or chorizo.

So within their small Spanish community, they had to make what they couldn’t get. One family would teach how to cure olives, every year, they would make jamon, every couple of months, they would make chorizo. “I’ve always had that love of food and getting into making it. I remember when I was eight years old, my father gave me a knife and I cut finger while cutting into a lamb. So from a very young age, food has been a very important part of my life.”

MoVida Bali reflects its exotic settings, the restaurant’s architecture and interior design have a distinctly modern aesthetic. The restaurant showcases a unique and contemporary style of craftsmanship within the Bali context, featuring traditional Balinese brick, rattan and teak with the furniture and interiors handcrafted by Bali’s finest craftsmen and artisans. The

restaurant interior design also features classic and vintage furniture, handcrafted artisanal pieces and original designer collectibles.

The MoVida Bali menu takes inspiration from its new island location and climate, whilst retaining the Spanish character it is renowned for. MoVida co-founder Frank Camorra and MoVida Bali head chef Jimmy Parker have worked with local island producers who have respectful and passionate engagement with the land and sea to develop the menu.

Local Balinese producers are currently growing ingredients native to Spain especially for MoVida Bali, a move that blends the restaurant’s commitment to authenticity and its appreciation for its new location.

The menu includes unique ingredients and offerings, such as gourmet conservas and cured meats imported directly from Spain, lighter creations to reflect the island atmosphere, and signature MoVida dishes recreated with local ingredients. MoVida Bali’s impressive bar showcases a selective but solid list of cocktails based on celebrated classics, including at least four different types of sangrias available by the glass, and a wide range of fine Spanish wines.

In addition to the gourmet tinned seafood and fine hams imported from Spain, the menu includes Tapas, such as Anchoa (anchovy, crouton, smoked tomato sorbet) and Tartar (Wagyu tartar, whipped roe, sesame crisp); Raciones, such as Bacalao (saffron-battered cod, mojo verde, piquillo pepper), Cecina (air dried beef, truffle foam, poached organic egg) and Arroz (seafood and saffron bisque wet rice); as well as dishes from the Josper oven, including Cordero (Central Javanese suckling lamb shoulder with saffron potatoes) and Bistec (Wagyu flank steak, white anchovies and horseradish).

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OPEN

The Union Group opens

THE DUTCH at SCBD story by JED DOBLE photographs by DENNIE RAMON

The creators of Loewy, Cork & Screw and Union unveil their new concept this month, The Dutch.

THE DUTCH Parc Place Tower E, Lot 18 SCBD Jalan Jend. Sudirman Kav 52-55, Jakarta T: +62 21 515 2828 IG: @thedutchjakarta www.thedutchjakarta.com 22

March 2016 •

“Most of the dishes will have at least one Dutch component.”

THE UNION GROUP is set to open this month, The Dutch at Lot 18 of the Sudirman Central Business District. They up the game with this distinct new concept: modern interiors, a menu of elevated comfort food with a creative edge, a wide selection of beers on tap and handcrafted cocktails, in short, a modern gastropub.

At the helm of The Dutch is a Dutch, chef Chris Moes. He spent much of his career as sous chef at the exquisite and critically acclaimed greenhouse restaurant, De Kas, in Amsterdam.

He has lived in Jakarta for the past few years, working with The Union Group. During this time, he has grasped the market’s tastes and was eager to bring something new and exciting to the table. Many months were spent sourcing for local ingredients and experimenting in the kitchen in his pursuit to make the most delicious homemade sausages and cured meats.

Speaking to Chef Chris, he says that the name of the restaurant indeed draws from him being Dutch, and that there are Dutch influences on the menu, but it also sounded like a really cool name for a gastropub. Of course that opens up the topic of Dutch food. Chef Chris explains that in The Netherlands, which is in the northern part of Europe, people only eat to get energy and sustenance. In the southern part of Europe, in Italy, France and Spain, food for them is more experiential, they sit and spend hours on meals. So we conclude that Dutch food is very egalitarian and basic. Chris admits that the menu is influenced by Dutch food, but is quick to say that it is very minimal. “Most of the dishes will have at least one Dutch component.

For example, there is a dish which we call the boerenkool which is a potato mash with kale. We eat this with meatballs and sausages. Some of our dishes will be served with this mash,” he explains.

Chef Chris is proud to say that he has succeeded in refining and giving interesting twists to Dutch hearty fare and classics. Start with the Erwten soup, which is a traditional split pea soup with handcrafted sausages, house-baked pretzel rolls and an amazing smoked butter, which is perfect for rainy days. One of the dishes Chef Chris is most proud of is his homemade Wagyu Pastrami, which he smokes to perfection.

He serves this drizzled with tonnato sauce and topped with a velvety 7-minute egg. Also look for Chef Chris’ homemade sausages and other cold cuts.

The Dutch has an open kitchen, where you can see the team hard at work. Book yourself one of the eight seats at the kitchen bar and have an up close and personal experience with The Dutch himself.

Headlining the bar at The Dutch is a handsome copper multi-tap beer tower, dispensing seven kinds of draught brews.

The selection ranges from local favorites to international ales, perfectly frosty every single time due to the state-of-the-art cold pipe system. If you are having a hard time to choose, opt for their One Metre Beer, for a little taste of everything.

The award-winning mixologists of The Union Group have created a cocktail list The dutch which runs from gourmet to experimental, incorporating exotic ingredients and interesting techniques. Want a cocktail in a jiffy? Have it at The Dutch, the only place in the city where you can get a cocktail on tap, so a fizzy and refreshing Americano will be ready within a few seconds of you resting your elbows on the bar.

Behind The Dutch’s minimalistic space is Andra Matin, a major force in the contemporary Indonesian architecture scene. Raw, industrial materials such as rusted steel and brass are beautifully contrasted with a sleek, bold design dominated by parallel lines. The use of wood and copper retains the distinctive warmth and masculinity of the pubs of old. The space’s strong character feels very current yet centuries old.

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OPEN

SHANGHAI BABY

is The New Home of Chinoiserie in Bali story by JED DOBLE photographs by SHANGHAI BABY

SHANGHAI BABY Jalan Petitenget 208x, Seminyak, Bali T: +62 361 4741588, +62 817 0030 088 www.shanghaibaby.asia 24

March 2016 •

Newly opened Shanghai Baby has been drawing crowds and rave reviews from the chic and well-heeled Bali crowd.

SHANGHAI BABY is the bold evolution of a restaurant brand into an all-encompassing nightlife experience. It possesses the unique convergence of modern Cantonese cuisine, world class mixology, dramatic design, and musical talent collaboration across multiple genres to creates a lounge club and restaurant concept that is momentous in scale and ambition.

Shanghai Baby’s culinary program takes a modern approach to Chinese cuisine, using the finest ingredients and expert techniques to create timeless yet innovative signature dishes which are both familiar yet very much different.

Shanghai Baby Restaurant and Club Lounge will feature creative partnerships with the top musical talents across the globe. Artists will work closely with the Shanghai Baby team to tailor their performances to suit the unique capabilities of the venue and their own versatile styles.

Leading international designer Grant Chyene was enlisted to create Shanghai

Baby’s immersive 3 level space that offers a variety of experiences and environments.

Its progressive design are an integration of the brand’s distinctive aesthetic: a contemporary vision inspired by classic Chinoiserie and reimaged for Bali.

With a world class team of hospitality experts and design driven partnerships, Shanghai Baby represents a visionary and widely anticipated endeavor which should not be missed when you are in Bali.

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OPEN

SEA GRAIN RESTAURANT & BAR

Opens at The DoubleTree by Hilton story by JED DOBLE photographs by SEA GRAIN

Sea Grain Restaurant & Bar is set to attract diners with it’s interesting Mediterranean cuisine with a local twist.

AS I ENTERED Sea Grain, I immediately knew I would like it. It’s industrial and modern interiors are rustic, warm and casual, with the right amount of whimsy. Turning left to the bar area, my eyes are transfixed to the colorful mural painted onto the wall, then my eyes dart to the cool outdoor sitting area, which took full advantage of the cool breeze that fine late afternoon. I already like what I see.

Located on the 3rd floor of the DoubleTree by Hilton Jakarta Diponogoro, the restaurant and bar’s design is best described as relaxed with a rich mix of colors and fabrics which reflect the lavish ambiance of the area. Boasting impressive interior design, featuring 640 square meters of indoor and outdoor spaces, includes three private dining rooms.

Together with the vibrant atmosphere, the menus emphasize the freshness of each ingredient, Sea Grain features a local twist on Mediterranean cuisine. Chef de cuisine Ahmad Nurseha has combined his great knowledge of Mediterranean cooking and expertly and tastefully blends the flavor and spices using local produce.

“Using local ingredients, we offer a selection of the best Mediterranean favorites that fit both the local and international palate in order to provide our guests a unique variety of flavors and an unforgettable culinary journey,” explains Chef Ahmad.

Dinner that night clearly reflected Mediterranean flavors, but Chef Ahmad also obviously used distinct local fruits and produce to give the

SEA GRAIN DoubleTree by Hilton Jakarta - Diponegoro Jalan Pegangsaan Timur No. 17, Cikini - Menteng, Jakarta T: +62 21 31904433 www.JakartaDiponegoro.DoubleTree.com Open for dinner 26

March 2016 •

flavors a local twist. I enjoyed his shrimp and mango salad, the bouillabaisse soup and my beef main, which was perfectly cooked.

Sea Grain is open for dinner and after-hours drinks, it provides the perfect setting for the fun and hip crowd. The ideal venue for a sumptuous meal, to savour a glass of wine from their extensive wine list, or to simply unwind on a comfy sofa and feel the light

evening breeze from the semioutdoor spaces.

“Walid Ouezini, our Food and Beverage Manager here at the DoubleTree by Hilton Jakarta – Diponegoro, created a great signature cocktail, our homemade Sangria. By adding a bounty of fresh local fruits to the Mediterranean character of the drink, he created a unique signature drink based on his secret recipe,” said Markus Kaliss, General Manager.

RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE - JAKARTA

story by RIAN FARISA photographs by RIAN FARISA & RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE

Direct from New Orleans, how a reputable steak house business should be. Jakarta welcomes the opening of Ruth’s Chris Steak House.

THE TONGUE TWISTING name of Ruth’s Chris Steak House may sound unique or awkward for some, but in New Orleans – the city where it was born, this powerhouse name actually bears the fine chemistry between tradition, great reputation, and business experience for more than 50 years.

New Orleans itself is a culinary melting pot, between European settlers and the local Creole cuisine. The co-existence between these civilizations created a culture that influences the rich lineup of dishes that Ruth’s Chris Steak House has been serving its guests since its early days.

In 1965, Ruth Fertel took over Chris’ Steak House – the original steak house since 1927. She then taught herself with the skills needed to run a restaurant business. Thanks to her adept hands, the restaurant

gained prominence and she became known as “The Empress of Steak” in United States.

Her steakhouse business has been broadly introduced throughout the world and now with over 80 establishments globally, Ruth’s Chris Steak House further expands deeper into Southeast Asia with the opening of their Jakarta outpost.

Ruth’s Chris Steak House introduces their traditional lineup from the South to the local diners with starters such as crab cakes, barbecued shrimp, lobster bisque, shrimp remoulade, the beautiful fifteen-ingredient chop salad, and many more.

Then of course, the pièce de résistance. Ruth’s Chris Steak House uses only the finest – selecting only customaged US Prime grade beef.

Grilled by using a custom designed oven by Ruth Fertel herself, made 50 years ago, the steak is presented with the perfect temperature. The restaurant also uses a 260C heated plate to ensure that the steak stays sizzling hot. The steak is perfect.

The accompaniments such as the asparagus, mashed potato, sauteed mushrooms, and onion rings are available at your disposal - including additional steak sauces.

However, rather than choosing the latter, it actually takes only the harmony between salt, pepper and butter sauce to ensure a perfect bite.

RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE Somerset Grand Citra, Jalan Prof. Dr. Satrio Kav. 1 Jakarta – Indonesia T: +62 21 5221 178 OPENING HOURS: Daily, 7am – 6pm Daily, 12pm - 3pm (lunch), 5.30pm – 11pm (dinner) • March 2016

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OPEN

HOUSE OF YUEN Fairmont Jakarta Jalan Asia Afrika No. 8, Gelora Bung Karno, Jakarta T: +6221 2903 9172 www.fairmont.com 28

March 2016 •

HOUSE OF YUEN Raises Chinese Cuisine to New Heights

House of Yuen brings the experience of Chinese high dining direct from Hong Kong courtesy of the Sun Tung Lok Group.

story by JED DOBLE photographs by DENNIE RAMON

SUN TUNG LOK Chinese Cuisine was founded in 1969 by the Yuen family in Hong Kong. For almost five decades, their focus on top quality Guangdong-style cuisine and excellent tailor-made customer service has lead their restaurant to an unparalleled reputation in the market. In 2011, Sun Tung Lok Chinese Cuisine was awarded Three Stars by the famous Michelin gourmet dining guide. It became the first non-hotel eatery to be awarded Three Stars in Hong Kong. In addition, they are one of only two Chinese restaurants in the world to receive such a recognition.

Jakartans celebrate as they are now able to taste Sun Tung

Lok Chinese Cuisine with the opening of House of Yuen at Fairmont Jakarta bringing with it the leading gastronomic style from Hong Kong that has been respected for generations.

House of Yuen Jakarta is ready to add to the palate and set a refined standard for gourmands in the city.

Offering a wide, delectable array of Cantonese delicacies, House of Yuen aims to be synonymous with constantly excellent quality and service.

With highly- trained staff, their personalized service is crafted to match customers’ needs of the moment.

Their core menu items have been highly praised for their quality since their respective

introductions dating back decades ago by the Yuen family, with a full-range of specialties from dried seafood, dim sum, and roasts. They use only premium ingredients to create the rarest dishes to the classics with a modern twist.

Some of the signature dishes of executive chef Joe Chan from Sun Tung Lok Hong Kong are implemented by Chef Wong Tung Sing, including Roast Suckling Pig Stuffed with Minced Shrimp, Braised Beef Prime Ribs with House Gravy, and One Selection of Dried Seafood and Fine Dim Sum. House of Yuen is as much about the ambience as it is about the high quality cuisine and service that it presents

with a contemporary touch.

Nestled in an exquisite setting at the Fairmont Jakarta in the strategic Senayan Square compound, the main dining area can sit over 250 guests whether for business or family occasions. The venue also has 12 private rooms for the city’s diners who wish to enjoy privately for special occasions.

Having been awarded Michelin stars for five consecutive years now distinguishes Sun Tung Lok for its excellence. This reputation for high quality Chinese food and outstanding service is now available in Jakarta at House of Yuen. Now is the best time to experience the taste and service for yourself.

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ON THE PASS

OXONE Concludes Battle Chef Serie story by JED DOBLE

Renowned kitchen appliance and equipment brand Oxone recently concluded their Battle Chef Series and named its champion.

THE BATTLE CHEF SERIES collected 10 through the course of 10 competitions and the individual winners were then pitted against each other in the finals. The grand finals were judged by a panel composed of Chefs Degan Septoadji, Henry Alexie Bloem and Desi Trisnawati.

Finalists had to replicate dishes created by the chef judges and present these to the panel. The Duplication Challenge saw the finalists try to copy Chef Henry Bloem’s Trio Balinese Sea Dancers for the appetizer, Chef Degan’s Pan Roasted Lamb Loin for the main course and Chef Desi’s Mud Cake for dessert given a time limit.

The Battle Chef Series aims to hone the abilities of the participants and challenge them to be better cooks, and to be ready for careers as chefs. The finalists had to draw on all their skills and knowledge to replicate the dishes of the judges.

The competition was fierce and the finalists were pushed to the limit, in the end, 23 year old Muhammad Razif, who

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March 2016 •

flew in all the way from Dubai to join the Battle Chef grand finals emerged victorious.

The judges chose him for his almost accurate duplication of the three very complicated dishes. First runner up was 21 year old Fransiskus Wahyu and second runner up was 19 year old Jonathan Arie.

In the end, all the 10 finalists were already winners in their own right, the competition brought out the best in them and each of them gave 100% of their passion and ability to compete. We look forward for this years Oxone Battle Chef Series.

THE HILTON F&B Masters competition celebrate the talent of the hotel group’s F&B professionals. In the 2015/16 season of the competition, Southeast Asia saw 157 team members across 27 properties in the region participating and competing for the honors of winning the Cups across the five disciplines - Bar, Culinary, Pastry, Sommelier and Barista – at the Southeast Asia & India F&B Masters.

The clustered countries

semifinals took off end 2015 at DoubleTree by Hilton JakartaDiponegoro for the Singapore and Indonesia hotels; Hilton Colombo for Sri Lanka and the Maldives hotels; Millennium Hilton Bangkok for the Thailand and Myanmar hotels; and Hilton Kuala Lumpur for the Malaysia and Vietnam hotels. Team members who emerged winners at the clustered countries semifinals competed in the presence of renowned judges.

HILTON F&B Masters

Competiton Heats Up story by JED DOBLE

The Hilton Worldwide hotel group conducts the annual F&B Masters competition for its team members to showcase their talent.

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ON THE PASS

FAIRMONT JAKARTA’S Sapori Deli is a casual and stylish urban dining space, a modern reimagining of the traditional Italian trattoria. Sapori Deli offers excellent Italian comfort food in a warm and relaxed atmosphere, guests are there to dine, to meet or to relax and enjoy quality time with friends and family.

For those who wish to spend the weekend with their loved ones, Sapori Deli recently launched their delectable Italian inspired brunch which will pamper you and your family. On a Sunday, I personally want to take it easy and be as uncomplicated as possible, thus Sapori Deli is a great choice. The warm and relaxed interiors obviously reflect my goals. But I am here for the food too, and that didn’t disappoint.

Upon closer observation, they have everything that I would imagine from an Italian brunch. They had a good selection of antipasti and salads. I started with the 32

March 2016 •

Sunday Brunch The SAPORI Way story by JED DOBLE

Fairmont Jakarta’s Sapori Deli recently launched its Italian inspired Sunday Brunch, a hearty and welcome option for the family.

Caprese Salad, the buffalo mozzarella was very fresh and the tomatoes bright, I tried to be healthy and a bit of the quinoa salad which was nice and refreshing, plus some of the classic Caesar salad which was mixed fresh to order. My favorite was the Wagyu Beef Carpaccio which was excellent.

The Italian charcuterie was also a highlight, they had salami, beef pastrami, Mortadella and

Parma ham. For the cheese lovers, like me, they will regale you will a good variety including Parmesan, Taleggio, Provolone and Pecorino Romano, served with the traditional accompaniments.

For the kids, not to be missed is the pizza making counter. The little ones can enjoy some hands-on time with the chef to make their own pizza. They are taught to

knead the dough, lay it out and place their toppings. These are then baked at the pizza oven they have in the restaurant.

I am not sure how good the pizzas turn out, but the kids loved the experience.

But that’s not all we had.

The soup of the day and a selection of two pastas and a risotto were also served table side. Then each guest is asked to pick from a selection of

main courses. I chose the beef tenderloin, it was Sunday after all, it was cooked perfectly and I thoroughly enjoyed it, especially paired with the sweetness of the peppers. To end the meal, they have a wide selection of desserts to soothe any sweet tooth. For me, it was cheat day, so I definitely indulged. While at Sapori Deli, you may want to treat yourself further and order one or more of their Zeppole. These are Italian style doughnuts with delicious fillings which originate in Sicily. They have a few flavors each week and they are absolutely delicious!

So looking for a nice and relaxed Sunday Brunch, Sapori Deli is a great option which has something for everyone, especially Foodies like me.

SAPORI DELI Fairmont Jakarta Jalan Asia Afrika No. 8, Gelora Bung Karno, Jakarta T: +62 21 2970 3333 www.fairmont.com • March 2016

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KITCHEN ENVY

SHULE PASTA MACHINE Impress your dinner guests with the unequaled taste of fresh, homemade pasta.

This pasta machine has adjustable smooth rollers where sheets of pasta can be cut with different thicknesses. It also comes with two popular pasta making attachments for producing spaghetti and fettuccine. The pasta machine clamps to the side of your worktable, leaving your hands free to feed dough through the rollers on to the guiding tray and to roll the lever.

Features:

• Adjustable steel rollers for kneading • Seven thickness settings • Removable handle and clamp • Cutting accessory • Recipe booklet • Color – Silver • Dimensions – 8” x 6” x 8”

Available at: PANTRY MAGIC Jalan Kemang Raya No.14B, Jakarta T: +62 21 7182573 www.pantry-magic.com/jakarta

Home-Perfect Pasta story by JED DOBLE

We’ve already established that we love our noodles. But wouldn’t it be great to make noodles at home? Whether you are the weekend home cook or you just want to show off at your next dinner party, having your own trusty pasta maker will surely be worth your while.

BLADES OF GLORY story by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE RAMON

The knife is the chef’s or home cook’s number one weapon. Whether you are slicing or chopping, you are only as good as your knife. Here we share some of the functions of commonly used knives. All provided by Oxone. www.oxone-worldwide.com

CLEAVER

UTILITY KNIFE

CHEF’S KNIFE

PARING KNIFE

SLICER

The wide blade has become the trademark of this knife which sole purpose is to chop and cut through thick meat, cartilage, and even bone.

Thanks to the thicker blade and tough edge, a cleaver is designed to be resilient for repeated blows. The rest is up to our momentum to use it efficiently so that it can go through the toughest part of meat, chicken, and even lobster.

A utility knife is considered as a crossover between the slicing knife and paring knife. While it is efficient for slicing fruits and vegetables, a utility knife comes in handy for precision tasks such as trimming, peeling, and even carving.

A chef’s knife or cook’s knife is a multi-purpose knife that is commonly used in professional kitchens. The wide blade is designed to narrow down to a pointy edge making it perform well at many tasks – from slicing, mincing, and also chopping.

While it is designed as an all-purpose knife, a paring knife is smaller than a chef’s knife. It has a very thin, pointy edge that makes it ideal for intricate work such as julienning fruits and vegetables, peeling and garnishing, de-veining shrimps, removing corn kernels from the cob, and many more.

Generally used for slicing meats, usually this knife has a longer blade for clean and even cuts. Sometimes it has a plain or serrated edge, and either pointy or blunted edge. Each type of slicer has a specific task for either slicing roasts, ham, sushi, sashimi, and even breaking down large fish.

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NOODLES, NOODLES It is a world food staple. How can we not talk about noodles?

The earliest documentation of noodles may have come from a third century A.D. dictionary in China. Of course, there are other mentions throughout history but it might be safe to say that the Chinese invented it. But who does the best noodle dishes? Some may say it is a tossup between Italy and China. Of course the Indonesians will have to disagree. But that is one of the most alluring facts about noodles: how varied they are. In China, hand pulled noodles are extremely common, while in Italy, hand rolled pasta is made daily in homes and restaurants. In Indonesia, thousands of bowls of mie ayam, bakmi, kwetiaw, lomie, mie goreng and many more types are eaten daily too. So now, we try to exhaust our reach and research to deliver to you our Noodle Issue.

COVER STORY

A WEEKEND

SAM’S STRAWBERRY CORNER

BAKMI KEPITING PONTIANAK

From rags to riches, from a hawker to restaurant. Sam’s has been successful in introducing its unique bakmi with chicken floss and which is best when accompanied with a full set of meat balls, dumplings, and juicy tripe.

Originating from Borneo, this bakmi is famed for its seafood toppings of crab claws, fish cakes, fish balls, and shrimps. It’s hard to let this option go whenever we visit Eat & Eat.

The chicken floss topping makes it unique

Address: Jalan Ir. H. Juanda no. 315, Bandung (with franchises around Jakarta)

Rich seafood flavors

Address: Available at all eight branches of EAT & EAT in Jakarta and surrounding cities

ADVENTURE story by RIAN FARISA, GUPTA SITORUS, AND PRIMO RIZKY photographs by RIAN FARISA AND JED DOBLE

Need suggestions for which bakmi joint to visit this weekend? We have compiled a list for that little adventure that you maybe looking for.

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TOKO YOU

MIE BANGKA ASAN

Well known since 1947, the sweet bakmi dish or yamien with a distinct flavor coming from Toko You’s homemade noodles and kecap manis is dear for the citizens of Bandung. Best served with prawn and tofu dumplings.

Affordable and perfect for the hungry man, Asan’s noodles are best known as the neighborhood’s most loved breakfast dish with a load of minced chicken and bean sprout toppings.

Address: Jalan Hasanuddin no. 12, Bandung

Address: Jalan Cipinang Jaya no. 33, Jakarta

A distinctive sweet flavor

A generous portion with sweet and savory flavors

BAKMI FANS There is a huge obsession with bakmi all around the country. On Instagram alone, the hashtag #bakmi has almost 40,000 post.

It’s not surprising to see people out there who are constantly searching for he best and tastiest bakmi.

BAKMI LILI

BAKMI GANG MANGGA

Bakmi Lili is typical Bangka-style using curly and al dente noodles. The savory braised minced pork topping makes it a simple satisfying comfort food.

A generous serving of pork char siew, fried pork fat and pork crackling make Bakmi Gang Mangga a must try for any bakmi lover.

Curly noodles with a salty savory flavor

Address: Jalan Tanjung Duren Barat No. 17 Grogol, Jakarta

Curly noodles with pork goodness

Address: Jalan Kemurnian IV No. 38B, Gang Mangga Glodok, Jakarta

Bakmi Club Indonesia is on Instagram and boasts almost 3,000 followers.

They pride themselves with sharing bakmi throughout the country. They feature bakmi lovers’ photos on their timeline. bakmiclubid@gmail.com @bakmiclubid

BAKMI WIN

BAKMI LAMLO

From the terrace of a humble house, Bakmi Win offers bakmi using thin noodles with a light savory flavor resulting from the absence of MSG. Add crispy chicken skin and fried meatballs which are only available for a very limited time each day.

This Medan-style bakmi is popular for its heaping toppings - minced chicken and pork, fish balls, meat balls, suikiau (steamed dumplings), and slices of braised duck egg, all arranged beautifully in your bowl. What a temptation!

Address: Jalan Tulodong Atas No.16 Kebayoran Baru, Jakarta

Address: Fresh Market PIK Blok G no. 29-30 Pantai Indah Kapuk, Jakarta

A light savory flavor

Thick and chewy noodles with a sweet flavor

Axioo Bakmi Club is another popular Instagram account with a whopping 6,234 followers. They are dedicated to finding the best noodles. They are a huge fan of pork fat (as the IG profile professes) with the usual accompaniment of fried bakso as their secondary passion. @axioo.bakmiclub

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COVER STORY

BEST

BOLOGNESE story by JED DOBLE

Who doesn’t love Spaghetti Bolognese?! This is a recipe I have used and developed throughout the years.

It is my go to recipe for the rich and sourtomatoey Bolognese which my family and friends love.

SPAGHETTI BOLOGNESE Serves: 1

FEELING SAUCY? AL DENTE?

INGREDIENTS: 500 g 500 g 6 pcs 1 can 1 pc 2 pcs

1 bottle 2 tbsp 1 tbsp 2 tbsp 1 cup 2 pcs 1 tsp 1 tsp 1 tsp 1 tsp ¼ cup 75 g

STEPS

Spaghetti Ground Beef Smokey Bacon, finely diced Whole Tomatoes Large Onion, finely diced Garlic Cloves, peeled and finely diced Pasta Sauce Tomato Paste Sugar Pickle Relish Stock Dry Bay Leaves Dried Oregano Dried Thyme Dried Basil Dried Rosemary Olive Oil Parmesan Cheese, grated Sea Salt Black Pepper

• Place a large heavy-bottomed saucepan on a medium heat. Add the olive oil and gently fry the bacon until crisp and golden, then reduce the heat slightly and add the onions and garlic.

Next add the dried spices: oregano, thyme, basil and rosemary to the pot. Move everything around and fry for around 6 minutes until the onions have softened.

• Next, increase the heat slightly, add the ground beef and stir until the meat is browned all over.

Season with salt, pepper and sugar.

• Stir in the pasta sauce, tomato paste and stock.

Add the dry bay leaves. Increase the heat and let to boil for 15 minutes. Stir in the can of whole tomatoes, (plum tomatoes are best as they contain less water).

• Give everything a stir with a wooden spoon, breaking up the whole tomatoes as you go and bring to a gentle simmer. Reduce the heat to low-medium, put the lid on and leave it to boil away for about an hour and 15 minutes until the flavors develop into a wonderfully rich tomatoey sauce. Stir occasionally to make sure it doesn’t stick to the bottom of the pan.

• Just as the sauce is nearly ready, add the parmesan and season to taste. Meanwhile add salt to a pan of boiling water and cook the spaghetti according the packet instructions.

Once the spaghetti is ready, drain it in a colander. Toss the spaghetti with the sauce, give it all a good stir, making sure to coat the pasta in the lovely tomato sauce. Serve with a little grated parmesan on top.

CIRIO PASSATA VERACE Following the traditional Italian tomato sauce recipe, Cirio is creamy and smooth and adapts to any recipe. It has a velvety texture and a naturally sweet taste.

BELLA PARMA Sugo Arrabbiata The addition of chili gives the sauce a tangy and spicy warmth that is ready to wrap flavor around your pasta.

SAN REMO TOMATO AND BASIL PASTA SAUCE

AGNESI BOLOGNESE SAUCE

Created with the finest ingredients, using an authentic, home style recipe.

Succulent tomatoes and basil are combined to create this delicious pasta sauce.

What exactly is al dente?

The term is often used to describe pasta that is cooked to be firm to the bite. Meaning the pasta is slightly undercooked and firm when you bite it or pinch it. This is the ideal consistency for pasta, as most Italians will say. But when is pasta al dente and when is it undercooked?

Hmmmmm….

Different preparations or dishes may require different pasta cooking times. Pasta brand Barilla says: “if you plan to toss the pasta in a pan with the sauce, you should drain it when it is al dente. If, instead, you plan to serve it with pesto, it is advisable to follow the cooking time on the box. If you plan to make a pasta salad, place the pasta in a bowl of ice water and olive oil immediately after draining to stop the cooking process.”

As a rule of thumb, remember that if the pasta dish will still undergo some cooking, undercook the pasta. That being said, as in all food, to each his own.

Some like their noodles soft while others al dente. When eating alone, go ahead and do whatever you want. If with company, it is better to err on the safe side, so al dente it is!

Bolognese maybe the most famous Italian sauce in the world.

Traditionally used with tagliatelle or lasagna.

The traditional Northern Italian Bolognese uses tomatoes, onions, celery and carrots.

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COVER STORY

MIE GORENG As the mother of all Chinese-influenced noodle dishes, mie goreng or fried noodles is not only famous in Indonesia but also in neighboring countries Singapore and Malaysia.

Yellow wheat noodles are the most common noodles used in the most basic version found at street vendors or food courts, this is mixed with cabbage, eggs, with meatballs and sliced chicken. Mie goreng is also presented in restaurants and five-star hotels as well. The versions have evolved between the use of pork or beef, or alternatively by adding seafood such as cuttlefish and shrimp as well.

What feels very Indonesian about the dish is the use of sweet soy sauce or kecap manis while it also retains the Chinese flavors from other sauces as well. Stir-fried on a very hot wok, mie goreng is perfect any time of day, from breakfast, lunch, a quick snack or for a family dinner. It has also influenced other noodlebased dishes and regional cuisines with their own versions.

DO RE MIE

Indonesia’s Most Famous Noodle Dishes

story by RIAN FARISA photographs by RIAN FARISA

Indonesians love their noodle dishes. These are found every day at hawker stalls and restaurants alike. Here’s a list of the most common noodle dishes you can find.

KWETIAU Another common noodle dish is kwetiau.

When served stir-fried, kwetiau is very similar with mie goreng when it comes to the composition, the ingredients used, and even the taste. The only real difference with kwetiau is the use of white flat rice noodles instead of the usual yellow wheat noodles in mie goreng. It is equally famous as its cousin, and is very similar to char kway teow which is common in Singapore and Malaysia.

LOMIE While it may not be as familiar as mie goreng or kwetiau, lomie actually has a large following in certain areas and cities around Indonesia. While it may also use pork, lomie is also known for its combination with shredded chicken, water spinach, and the unique thick seafood soup with shrimps.

BAKMI JAWA While this one may have more non-Chinese influence like mie Aceh with the use of curry paste, bakmi Jawa has actually become an iconic representation of Indonesian cuisine. Cooked in a wok fueled with charcoal; bakmi Jawa is usually served with cabbage, chicken, and eggs.

Commonly served soupy, other versions of this dish have the less soup (Javanese: nyemek) version or even stir-fried.

IFUMIE Ifumie is a good example of a hearty noodle dish that employs the full use of capcay or the mixed meat and vegetables dish with thick sauce. The use of crispy fried noodles as the foundation of the dish is very distinctive and the noodles are then showered with the capcay.

This creates a very colorful and appetizing dish, fit for family gatherings and parties.

SHOPPING CART –

A CUPPA NOODLES story by RIAN FARISA photographs by RIAN FARISA

Since Nissin revolutionized the invention of the cup noodles in 1971, the world just can’t get enough of its wonders even until this very day. Whether you are lazy to go out for the real deal or stuck at the office doing overtime, these cup noodles are a hit every time. Here is a small list for you to try.

MYOJO CHICKEN FLAVOUR There’s a reason why a wide, round cup noodle is more satisfying. Personally, it feels bigger and this particular flavor is very friendly to the Indonesian palate.

Yup, it tastes like our usual instant noodles with chicken flavor, but with just the right amount for the savory taste and topped with real cabbage, fishcakes, carrots, chilies, and spring onions.

KOKA LAKSA SINGAPURA FLAVOUR MIE SEDAAP RASA SOTO Dubbed as the strongest competitor of Indofood’s products, Mie Sedaap has a way to sway even the hardcore fans of Pop Mie and Indomie.

This one has a flavor to be reckoned with, much like your favorite soto ayam; especially with the addition of koya (the flavorful powder that thickens the soup), the subtle lime flavor, and topped with vegetables and bal-bal (soybean balls).

Branded as an instant noodles with no MSG added, Koka’s Singaporean laksa deserves bigger recognition here in Indonesia.

The strong coconut and seafood flavors found in this generous portion of cup noodles constitute what people would expect from even real laksa taste. Top the experience by adding shrimps, peas, coriander, and chili flakes – all included.

MI ABC RASA GULAI AYAM PEDAS As one of the bastions of Selera Pedas lineup, the chicken curry flavor is a must try for those who want to seek something specific from Indonesian cuisine. Other than the flavorful concoction of the seasonings, it is also made complete with the availability of chilies and chili oil to make your spicy experience hearty.

NEWDLES RASA DAGING SAPI PEDAS

POP MIE RASA BASO

From the inventor’s lineup, Newdles began with fried noodles years ago and has evolved with other flavors and the soup version as well. This one, that we love so much, has a comforting flavor of a beef soup with vegetables and a challenging degree of spiciness that will make you keep up until the very last bite.

Yes! This is the classic taste that Indonesians cannot resist and on par even with the famous chicken flavor.

Pop Mie sets the boundaries on where local instant noodles should compete in terms of flavor standards and the size as well. While it may not be as big as those coming from neighboring countries, the evergreen meatball soup flavors will always make you miss the homeland wherever you are.

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COVER STORY

RAMEN What’s in a Bowl of

story by JED DOBLE

The city has an ever-growing love affair with one of Japan’s most loved exports, ramen.

EACH BOWL of ramen contains four key ingredients: toppings, noodles, broth and tare (a seasoning base).

Let’s start from the bottom of the bowl and make our way up. Tare is something that you will not usually see, but is integral to the make-up of the flavor of your bowl of ramen.

Tare is the flavor base that anchors each bowl, that special potion or secret sauce if you may – usually just an ounce or two of concentrated liquid.

Some examples of tare are shio (salt), shoyu (soy), and miso.

Some ramens are named after their tare, but it is not always so. The most basic function of tare is to bring saltiness and umami to the broth. It can also be a vehicle for additional sweetness, sourness, or spiciness.

Some tare may have soy sauce or miso paste as the main ingredient, but it’s not at all uncommon to have five or even up to ten other ingredients. Again, consider the tare as the secret sauce, so a good ramen shop’s tare is a well guarded secret.

Other common ingredients include dashi, vinegar, mirin, sake, spices, garlic, ginger and oils. In Sapporo, tare is mostly made with miso. In Tokyo, soy sauce is the key ingredient.

Next are the noodles.

Shape, size, color and texture vary depending on the region and style of the ramen. But where ever you are, ramen noodles have one thing in common, they contain alkaline salts. Ramen noodles are made from flour, water, salt, and alkaline salts (kansui in Japanese). The last ingredient gives the noodles its natural yellow pigment, the characteristic golden hue.

Alkalinity also increases the strength and extensibility of the noodles. In other words, it is the alkalinity that makes a ramen noodle a ramen noodle.

Next is the heart and soul of any bowl of ramen, the broth. Remember, ramen IS soup. The broth unites the different tastes and textures in the bowl and makes it all work.

This is what makes or breaks a ramen shop. Broth can be

made from an endless list of ingredients: pork, chicken, fish, shrimp, beef, mussels, mushrooms, root vegetables, herbs, spices. Ramen broth isn’t about individual ingredients though; again, it is about conveying flavor, conveying umami, it’s about impact, which is why making most broths involves high heat, long cooking times, and giant heaps of chicken bones, pork bones, or both.

Ramen broths can be loosely divided into two main categories. Paitan (white soup) and Chintan (clear soup). Paitan is thick and cloudy, while Chintan is clear.

Tonkotsu ramens are obviously paitans. These soups are thick and creamy. They are full of fats and collagens extracted from pork bones, marrow and cartilage. The fats provide tons of flavor and body to the broth. Chicken, which contains a lot more glutamate (which actually means it has more umami) than pork, is good for making chintans.

And lastly, toppings. In theory, toppings can include

almost anything, but 95% of the ramen you may consume in Japan will be topped with pork char siu, Chinese-style roasted pork. Of course here, chicken char siu is a common topping also. But in my perfect world, toppings are of course pork: luscious slices of marinated pork belly or shoulder, carefully roasted over a low heat until the fat has been rendered and the meat is extremely tender, almost disintegrating as you stare at it. The only other mainstay in a bowl of ramen is negi, or the thinly sliced green onions. Others may have pickled bamboo shoots, sheets of nori, bean sprouts, corn kernels, raw garlic paste, and soy-soaked eggs.

So next visit to your favorite ramen shop, try to take a closer look or try to identify the different components of your ramen. Whatever you discover, remember, slurp and suck in your noodles, the louder the better. In Japan, that’s how you let the ramen shop owner know that you like his products.

COVER FEATURE

VIETNAM’s The In-Between Meal story by SAHIRI LOING photographs by DENNIE RAMON

Pho is the must-eat dish of Vietnam, but you don’t have to go the distance in order to taste it. Visiting NamNam Noodle Bar will do.

WHEN I WAS TRAVELING in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, other than the inexplicably tasty Vietnamese coffee, I think I consumed nothing but pho — that giant bowl of soft white rice flour noodles served with cuts of chicken meat (pho bo) or beef (pho ga), herbs (usually cinnamon and star anise), vegetables, condiments, with a savory crystal clear broth.

And fortunately, at NamNam Noodle Bar in Jakarta, that’s also what I got—along with the maker’s own twists, of course.

But first, be forewarned: the owner of the establishment— the titular Chef Nam (born Nam Q Nguyen)—says that their dishes are MSG free.

“Which can be a problem to some customers,” says the friendly chef. “I was once approached by a customer who complained about the dish’s ‘lack of body’.” But Chef Nam didn’t take the complaint

to heart, which is probably because he has other concerns to focus on, namely the notquite-widespread popularity of Vietnamese dishes such as pho (compared to similar dish from Japan or Korea) in the minds of foodies in Indonesia.

But nevertheless in January last year he opened his first NamNam Noodle Bar at the fashionable hangout spot of North Jakarta, Pantai Indah Kapuk. “I guess it will take time to educate people with a new taste, especially ones without the use of MSG,” he continues.

“That is why we keep thinking about the perfect substitute, such as using rock sugar or fat to give that umami taste.”

What gives his version of pho (using basic recipes from Hanoi, considered to be the birthplace of the dish) tastier and addictive might have something to do with his method of boiling the broth

“I’ve always wanted to have a restaurant of my own but I prefer to do something down to earth—so definitely not fine dining—that offers street food but within a comfortable setting.”

for a lengthy 24 hours — better to extract the fine flavors out!

Not to mention his homemade beef balls which he learned straight from a street meatball vendor at the vendor’s modest home. This is also another way of Chef Nam’s efforts to combine the best of both worlds whenever he opens a new restaurant at a new foreign location (like the spicy beef noodle). “For me in order to be successful you have to adapt each dish in every country”.

So why did he pick noodles in the first place? “I guess because it relates to my roots,” he explains. “And I’ve always wanted to have a restaurant of my own but I prefer to do something down to earth—so definitely not fine dining—that offers street food but within a comfortable setting.”

In Vietnam, pho is actually seen as a breakfast dish—either you prepare it yourself or you eat one at a street vendor on your way to work. But the 43-year-old chef views the pho as more flexible, an inbetween meal that you can infuse your own twist into it: “And I think the combinations are endless,” he says.

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COVER FEATURE

Eating Like a True Vietnamese

Even though located in a premium area, the NamNam Noodle Bar that I visited at Plaza Indonesia doesn’t give off a posh vibe, which as mentioned before is in line with the chef’s vision to create a casual and comfortable place that offers authentic Vietnamese street food. He tried a variety of noodles (such as tapioca noodle) but ultimately he found the end result is too hard, and thus to maintain consistency of texture the chef imports their noodles straight from Vietnam.

The use of condiments is also paramount to enjoy your bowl of pho, which, as the chef explains, can sometimes be a bit of a hassle in some country who are not used to spicing their food, but I think the sweet and spicy flavor of the condiments (usually fish sauce, hoisin, and sriracha) will not be

unfamiliar to most Indonesians.

At the risk of sounding contradictive however, eating your pho sans condiment is perfectly fine since the broth is savory enough—for sure my Pho Kampong Chicken was already slurp-able on its own The first NamNam Noodle Bar was opened in Singapore in 2012 to great success, warranting the development of two more branches in the city, before moving on to Indonesia where they have already secured three prime spots in PIK, Gandaria City and Plaza Indonesia. Chef Nam says that he will try to serve new dishes as best as he can and for the near future we can perhaps expect “a vegetarian pho, which is actually suggested by a customer. Like I said, we will always try to adapt, particularly considering people’s lifestyles are already heading towards that.” Well, the no-MSG rule is a promising start already.

“A vegetarian pho, which is actually suggested by a customer. Like I said, we will always try to adapt, particularly considering people’s lifestyles are already heading towards that.”

NAM NAM NOODLE BAR Plaza Indonesia, Unit 16 -19 LB Jalan M.H. Thamrin No.28-30 Jakarta IG: @namnamnoodlebar www.namnamnoodlebar.co.id 48

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COVER FEATURE

There’s Something About

GIA story by SAHIRI LOING photographs by DENNIE RAMON

Spoil your sight and Italian-leaning taste buds at GIA, especially with these pasta dishes courtesy of Chef Tommaso Gonfiantini.

ITALY HAS GIVEN us citizens of the world many wonderful bounties: sweeping literature, ornate architecture, Sophia Loren, the Tuscan sun, road rage, and, naturalmente, fulfilling cuisines that was once—and most probably still is—Elizabeth Gilbert’s object of affection.

Chef Tommaso Gonfiantini hails from the small town of Prato, in the Tuscany region and 24.5 km from Florence, a town where everyone knew each other and grew up with the wonderful aroma of one of the local delicacies. “In Prato we have this simple cake called mantovana,” the chef reminisces in his charming Italian accent. “It was pure joy on Sunday morning going out there to buy it and I will never forget the fantastic aroma in the air when we were about to enter this bakery.” Not a bad place to live.

Being inside GIA restaurant at the Sampoerna Strategic Square, on Jalan Sudirman, my olfactory sense was equally intrigued as chef Tommaso prepared us several of his pasta dishes, one of them was especially made for this edition: the Spaghetti Cozze, Gamberi Rossi e Zuppetta di Aglio Nero with blue mussels, red prawns, and cherry tomatoes.

We were sitting at the long table sharing—family style!—six other pasta dishes that were lavishly

presented between us (another favorite was the spinach-based Ravioli Burro El Salvia, making small talk interspersed with interesting insight from the chef such as “I don’t think many Italians do any cooking these days” or “family dining together is a very rare thing too” or “It is bizarre that we have to import mineral water, I mean it’s just water—I think it’s the same everywhere!”

The one-year-old GIA is having a banner year especially after having recently won The Best Restaurant Design of the Year Award from the prestigious Asia Pacific Design Awards. Their sophisticated Hecker and Guthrie-designed restaurant had also given them the award for Best Hospitality Interior of the Year and Best International Design of The Year. Ismaya Group certainly doesn’t spare any expense when it comes to design—they even printed out a coffee table book that compiles 50s-tinged black and white photos featuring a Cindy Crawford— lookalike model. The classy photos were taken by renown photographer Nicoline Patricia.

“With GIA we certainly aspire to create a design that is both vintage and also very modern,” says the Rome-born Martina Ceccolini from Marketing and Promotion, who is also on the hospitality front on a daily basis at GIA.

“With GIA we certainly aspire to create a design that is both vintage and also very modern.”

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COVER FEATURE

Tradition with a Modern Twist

Chef Tommaso grew up in a family of cooks, in particular “My mother is a great cook.

I remember she would talk passionately about food in general.” In fact, his parents once opened a restaurant called Rosarancio where he was the debutante making his entrée in the kitchen doing menial jobs such as peeling the potatoes “But I remembered how happy and satisfied I was working there.”

By chance in 2005, he met people from Indonesia who offered him a chef position in Bali then subsequently in

Jakarta, for a restaurant called Trattoria.

When we talk about Italian cuisine normally the words “pasta” or “pizza” are the first things that comes to mind, but chef Tommaso says the food are more diverse than that.

“True—Italian cuisine seems to be well known only for those dishes, but actually it’s more varied. It’s just a matter of ingredients, [perhaps we can use less] spices or chilies, but more of the pure taste of a fantastic tomato when it’s in the right season.”

He is particularly inspired by two Italian chefs—Fulvio Pierangelini and Filippo La

Mantia—who represent two polarizing views but their combination he thinks would translate into being a great chef. “Filippo is more like a pop star than a chef because he understands the importance of image, and Fulvio is more about understanding the food—he has been a real maestro for me. He has taught me how to respect every single ingredient, because when you’re in the kitchen it’s basically about knowing and feeling your ingredients.” He’s also taking notes from Daniel Humm from Eleven Madison Park, New York, whom he described as simply “Genius!”

So back to the dining table: between shamelessly feeding myself with another serving of the delicious meatballs that comes with the Fettucine Verdi Polpette di Wagyu, I asked so what should we expect—enthusiasts of Italian cuisines—from chef Tommaso at GIA? “Here we offer contemporary Italian food, based on tradition but revised in terms of method of cooking and presentation.” He said he loves long pasta—namely spaghetti—and as a final note gives us his favorite way in eating it: “Butter, parmesan cheese, and black pepper— simple and delicious!”

GIA Sampoerna Strategic Square South Tower - Lobby Level Jalan Jend. Sudirman, Kav 45-46, Jakarta T: +62 21 5795 3300, +62 812 8925 3300 IG: @giajakarta www.ismaya.com/gia

“Here we offer contemporary Italian food, based on tradition but revised in terms of method of cooking and presentation.”

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Spaghetti Cozze, Gamberi Rossi e Zuppetta di Aglio Nero Blue Serves: 1

INGREDIENTS: 250 g 30 g 20 ml

3g 15 gr

100 g 40 g 150 ml 50 g 100 g

10 g

20 ml To Taste

Mussels Garlic Extra Virgin Olive Oil Dry Chili Italian Flat-leaf Parsley Red Prawns Black Garlic Cream White Onions Cherry Tomatoes Fresh Thyme Day-old Bread Dry Oregano White Wine Salt and Pepper

STEPS

• Prepare the sauce: sweat garlic, chili, parsley, olive oil, blue mussels and prawns. Add the white wine and let the alcohol evaporate.

• Prepare the spaghetti as per instructions on the package and let the sauce simmer until the mussels open.

• Finely chop the bread, do not include the crust. In another pan fry the bread using olive oil and garlic until the bread is crispy and golden brown.

• Blanch the tomatoes for a few seconds, remove the skin, the seeds and cut into small pieces, add olive oil and fresh thyme and let them marinate for a few minutes.

• Remove the spaghetti 2-3 minutes before the time indicated on the package and finish cooking it in the pan with the mussel sauce adding some fish stock if necessary.

• In a small pan let the cream simmer with the black garlic and the chopped onions until thick then blend and strain.

• To serve: Place a couple of spoonful of soup first onto the place, then place the spaghetti right in the center using proper kitchen tweezers and finish it with marinated tomatoes and the crispy bread.

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COVER FEATURE

Noodles ala Akira story by SAHIRI LOING photographs by DENNIE RAMON

Borrowing an age old adage: When life give you noodles, well, make a beautiful noodle dish out of it.

Chef Akira Back creates two bespoke noodle dishes for us as we sit and chat during his last visit to Jakarta.

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COVER FEATURE

THE LIFE OF Akira Back sounds like it would make a great premise for an Asian-set blockbuster: a light-on-hisfeet ex-extreme sports athlete whose quick-wittedness extends to measuring the speed and ingredients required to score the perfect taste.

Heck, his name alone already warrants a Fast and Furiousstyled epic culinary action that would make Anthony Bourdain flushed with indignant excitement.

Some of those elements are true: he really is a former extreme sports athlete (namely snowboarding) who dabbles in the kitchen to support his love of the game. And in case you’re not into the culinary scene, he is a chef, and, yes, that is his name, albeit one that is displayed for the public.

From a man with no plans to a culinary savant with various ambitious crosscontinent projects, Akira Back has certainly come a long way since his professional snowboarding days. In fact, “The idea of becoming a chef didn’t even cross my mind until the opportunity presented 56

March 2016 •

itself,” says the Korean-born chef.

Well, thankfully it has crossed his mind. And lucky for us, he has made Jakarta a host city for his venerable self-titled restaurant. Chef Akira opened the Akira Back Restaurant back in 2014 at the chic and marvelously lit MD Building in Setiabudi, South Jakarta. It is already the go-to spot if you’re dying for Chef Akira’s signature tuna pizza. Jakarta seems to have a distinctive impression on him—in his eyes the city “doesn’t feel like it’s an Asian city. And the people here have a lot of buying power and aren’t uptight—they enjoy life and live for the moment more.”

Though he tries to maintain the consistency of his menu (“I try not to change the menu too much”) but of course he’s always open for original discovery in the kitchen. For this noodle issue, Chef Akira served up his own take on the noodle dish: the first is the delicious Ika Sumi Pasta, which he specially concocted for Foodies. It is a squid ink angel hair pasta with, among other things, scallops, sea urchin,

“Las Vegas is the true melting pot in America, and if you can survive there then you can make it anywhere.”

caviar, and chive oil. “This dish is clean and simple with the sea urchin giving a sweet flavor and creaminess with the added texture from the caviar and scallops.” While the second equally delectable dish, which is actually on the menu, is a soba maki, soba noodles wrapped in seaweed with blue crab, salmon, cilantro, and cherry tomatoes. Chef Akira describes this as very light and perfect for lunch. These are for sure Chef Akira’s premium class sendup for noodle-based dishes, beautifully crafted for the fine dining crowd.

For personal preferences he said his favorite noodles are Japanese udon and Korean naengmyun which is served cold (the name itself means “cold noodle”). “It can be quite spicy, and it uses wheat noodles which has a chewy texture,” he says. Unfortunately he hasn’t tried that many Indonesian noodle dishes, but the ones he did try he suspects were of Chinese origin.

SURVIVING SIN CITY

He counts himself lucky for being the owner of one of the longest lasting successful restaurants in Las Vegas — his Yellowtail Japanese Restaurant & Lounge at the Bellagio Hotel and Casino. Fun fact: “Las Vegas is the true melting pot in America, and if you can survive there then you can make it anywhere,” says chef Akira,

who actually grew up in Aspen, Colorado. “A lot of famous chefs have tried their luck there and failed.”

Now on its seventh year, his Yellowtail Restaurant & Lounge has unparalleled views of Lake Bellagio which provides guest with the best seat in the house to watch the fountain and light show. His menu embodies classic Japanese cuisine, which features innovative dishes that utilize the best ingredients from the world’s top purveyors.

Right now, Chef Akira is eyeing Chicago or Boston as the next home for his namesake establishment. “People would assume you should open in cities like New York or Los Angeles but for me those are obvious places.

People don’t necessarily think Chicago as the place [you should open a restaurant in]; it’s going to be hard and challenging but I’m up for it.”

This year he’s got other ambitious projects on the pipeline, namely going back to his roots (for the first time) by opening a new restaurant, in his homeland, South Korea, cooking up modern cuisine using Koreanbased ingredients. “It’s going to be sexy and casual, with food that was formerly only eaten by kings and princes.” Plus he is also eyeing prime restaurant space in Bangkok and Dubai. With all these going on, we hope Chef Akira makes it back to Jakarta soon. We are excited for him to cook for us again.

AKIRA BACK MD Place 12th Floor, Jalan Setiabudi Selatan No. 7 Jakara T: +62 857-7778-8777 IG: @akirabackjakarta www.akirabackindonesia.com

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Soba Maki Serves: 1

INGREDIENTS: 1 bundle

1 pc 40 g 2 tbsp Pinch 4 pcs 5 g 2 g 2 g 30 g

5 g 60 g

Japanese Buckwheat Noodles (soba) Roasted Nori Sheet Fresh Blue Crab Meat Japanese Mayonnaise Togarashi Cherry Tomatoes, quartered Red Onion, sliced Scallions, julienne/slivered Micro Cilantro Fresh Salmon, Sashimi Grade, cut into large dice Caviar Soba Dashi (traditional Japanese cold soba broth)

Lomi lomi sauce: Blend all ingredients in a blender 150 g Red Onion 20 g Shiragiku/rice vinegar 20 g Lemon Juice 10 g Fine Granulated Sugar 20 g Black Pepper 20 g Aji Amarillo (Peruvian Yellow Chili

Paste) 200g Grape Seed Oil To taste Salt

STEPS

• Cook soba noodles in boiling water then shock in ice water. Strain and pat dry.

• In a small bowl, mix the crab meat with the mayonnaise and Togarashi • Lay out the cooked noodles on top of the nori sheet, as if you are making a sushi roll. Cut into 4 pieces and place it on a chilled plate.

• Spread out the crab meat mixture on the middle of the noodles and roll it up. Use the noodle as a glue for the nori by squishing it against the edge of the nori.

• On a mixing bowl, toss the salmon, onions and cherry tomatoes.

• Place the salmon mixture on top of soba roll.

• Garnish with scallions and micro cilantro.

• Pour the soba sauce over when you ready to serve.

Ika Sumi Pasta Serves: 1

INGREDIENTS: 60 g 10 g 5 g 1 pc

3 tbsp

To taste 1 tsp garnish

Squid ink Angel Hair Fresh Uni Caviar Large Hokkaido Scallop, Sashimi Grade Ponzu Sauce (Soy Sauce, Vinegar, Lemon Juice) White Truffle Oil Chive Oil Micro Herbs

STEPS

• Cook angel hair briefly keeping it still al dente • Slice Scallop into large batons • Mix Ponzu sauce with truffle oil then toss with the noodle • Twirl the noodle into a serving plate and pour remaining sauce over • Top the noodle with slices of scallops and build it up with uni then caviar • Garnish the plate with micro herbs • Drizzle chive oil around the noodle

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NEIGHBORHOOD EATS

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The coming together of these three major streets of Gunawarman, Senopati, and Wolter Monginsidi has resulted in a door to door culinary bonanza. We came up with a list of notable places that you should not miss.

story by SEBASTIAN SUBAKTI illustration by RITTER WILLY PUTRA

GUNAWARMAN Le Quartier

Why: Fancy set-up without the pretentious menu and attitude.

What to order: Fried pig ears cracklings and smoked duck breast camembert pizza Address: Jalan Gunawarman No. 34, T: +62 21 72788001

Turkuaz

Why: Single handedly crafted its way to the number one spot when it comes to Turkish restaurants in this part of the town.

What to order: Iskender kebab and the signature lamb shank, village style.

Address: Jalan Gunawarman No. 32, T: +62 21 72795846

H Gourmet & Vibes

Why: Soulful comfort food by day, cool party scene by night.

What to order: Philly cheese steak sandwich and the Jerky Chicks Address: Jalan Gunawarman No. 41, T: +62 21 27510167

Hurricane’s Grill

Why: A new player in the ribs game that blends quality and quantity perfectly well.

What to order: Any of their signature ribs.

Address: Jalan Gunawarman No. 20, T: +62 21 27513388

Lola Espiritu y Libacion

Why: Extended selection of rum and an overall impressive

speakeasy bar vibe, coming here just to check out the interior of the place itself is already worth the trip.

What to order: The Diablo popsicles and carne de vaca sandwich Address: Jalan Gunawarman No. 21, T: +62 21 27513500

Fujin

Why: Hiroshima tepanyaki and a great selection of Japanese whiskey.

What to order: The Mentaiko Potato Pizza is a must, while the Meltique Steak seems to be the most selling item from the menu.

Address: Jalan Gunawarman No. 21, T: +62 21 27513030

SENOPATI Caribou

Why: Wonderful space to avoid the traffic with great coffee.

What to order: Apart from the coffee? Lamb kofta sandwich, and steak sandwich.

Address: Jalan Senopati, No. 52, T: +62 21 27515162

Pipiltin Cocoa

Why: Chocolate made from scratch and their great use of chocolate throughout the menu. Do we really need to say more?

What to order: The signature Tabanan Farm chocolate, and basically anything that has chocolate in it.

Address: Jalan Senopati, No. 27, T: +62 21 36446914

Cacaote

Why: Stunning desserts from the patisserie and classic unpretentious dishes from the brasserie.

What to order: The chocolate sphere and the brioche French toast-hazelnut crumbspoached pear foie gras.

Address: Jalan Senopati, No. 27, T: +62 21 29306127

Ms. Choo

Why: An on point execution of Asian menu and an even greater selection of cocktails with an oriental twang.

What to order: Crispy pork hock on the bone, and the Szechuan school prawns that goes well with the Asianinspired cocktails.

Address: Jalan Senopati, No. 65, T: +62 21 52964960

Monty’s

Why: Coming from the same group behind Nip & Dram you know that the bar menu alone should serve as a good enough attraction, the food is pretty amazing too.

What to order: The charcuterie board, and the organic beef cheek bourguignon.

Address: Jalan Senopati, No. 84, T: +62 21 72792323

Three Buns

Why: Hip burgers at its gourmet best.

What to order: Piggie small, or honky-tonk.

Address: Jalan Senopati, No. 90, T: +62 21 29307780.

WOLTER MONGINSIDI Mandala

Why: Historical Indonesianstyle Chinese soul food since forever.

What to order: The sapo tahu seafood with the nasi goreng kepiting should be every man’s staple dishes.

Address: Jalan Wolter Monginsidi, No. 80, T: +62 21 7398537

Shabu Gin

Why: Great selections of broth, meat and sides What to order: Go all out and get the wagyu set.

Address: Jalan Wolter Monginsidi, No. 53, T: +62 21 7202336.

Born Ga

Why: The portions are generous and the set-up is pretty neat and clean compared to other Korean barbecue places in town.

What to order: The signature Samgyupsal and the stellar jap chae.

Address: Jalan Wolter Monginsidi, No. 24, T: +62 21 7396229.

Jjang

Why: We don’t get a lot of Korean restaurants that are pretty serious about noodles, so this place is a true gem.

What to order: Budae jiggae noodle stew and the jjangmyeon black bean sauce noodle.

Address: Jalan Wolter Monginsidi, No. 39, T: +62 21 7229749 • March 2016

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FOODIE CONFIDENTIALS

Complementing Each Other’s

FOOD TASTE story by SAHIRI LOING photographs by DENNIE RAMON venue K22 AND VIEW at FAIRMONT JAKARTA

Ernanda Putra and Ellyse Sinsilia may sometimes not see eye-to-eye when it comes to food. But other than that, they’re perfectly and artistically in tune with each other.

WHILE IT TOOK US a bit longer to peruse the menu of various delectable Italian dishes but Ernanda Putra was quicker to decide which dish he wanted to order. For dinner he’ll be having the Short Rib and Pumpkin Ravioli, a dish that is in line with his “carnivorous” nature, a fact revealed by his wife Ellyse Sinsilia.

We are relaxing at the Sapori Deli of the Fairmont Jakarta after having a date night-themed photo shoot with the couple whose sartorial taste makes the visual even better: she’s wearing standout red Valentino heels and he is wearing Issey Miyake which he purchased on a recent trip to Japan. But something tells me this photo session is as close to a romantic date the couple gets with a glass of champagne in hand and lovey-dovey eye contact overlooking Jakarta’s gorgeous skyline, courtesy of VIEW located on the 22nd floor of the Fairmont.

“We both are definitely not into doing romantic stuff,” says Ellyse. “And I think the last time we had a romantic dinner was the night he proposed to me.” The proposal was offered at a fine dining restaurant in Singapore called Cocotte that they visited primarily because they wanted to experience the boutique hotel Wanderlust in which the restaurant is located at.

Artistic Entanglement

For those of you who are not into the social media game, Ernanda and Ellyse are considered Instagram celebritis or “celebgram” — avid uploaders of their travel adventures or simple everyday lives—which includes what they’re eating—that now they have a huge number of

followers: by the time of this writing he has 534K followers (collected after 5 long years) and she has 97K. Mind you, they have day jobs as well and equally successful ones at that. Ernanda now runs his own graphic design company, and Ellyse is Vice President of Operations at Mirum digital ad agency, the office she has occupied for the last seven years.

Meeting them in person you might think their combined eight years’ relationship (with the last year and a half being married) is a result of that ageold “opposites attract”—she’s breezy and personable while he’s more subdued and nods more often—but on closer inspection it seems that their artistic “blood” might be more responsible for their bond. She gushes: “He’s smart, creative, creates top-notch designs, and he knows how to ‘deal’ with me, coz I can be very dominant.”; while he gushes: “she’s beautiful and for me the smartest woman I know, and she and I are on the same frequency—we have similar tastes.” Though they share the same college (Universitas Pelita Harapan, and both also majored in design) with Ernanda two years her senior, they only met years later when she interned in an office he worked in.

Food & Travel

If there are any case of oppositeness, then that has more to do with their taste in food. “She loves spicy while I don’t,” says Ernanda who has a Javanese-Padang background.

“He likes sweet and salty food, but not so much for me,” says Ellyse who surprisingly is of Chinese descent. “And he’s more than content

with his meat-based dishes, while I prefer vegetables but in general I’m the one who loves to explore more. I’ll eat everything.” (Though she added that she draws the line on foods like jeroan or animal innards, cow intestines, and eyeballs.)

Consequently, Ellyse’s eclectic taste can sometimes rub off on her husband. “Previously going out for seafood can be quite tricky with him,” she says.

Though not much has changed but at least now dishes like sushi or sashimi is no longer foreign to his palate.

When it comes to going out the wanderlust couple (our dinner conversation are mostly dominated by their memories of traveling to Japan, Europe, and the U.S.) loves to try something new once in a while, but staying true to their artistic nature the places they go to must be pleasing to the eyes first. “We’re very visual people—we’d notice the interior design and other elements of a restaurant or café more,” he says.

“Yeah we don’t normally look at food reviews online because I think people’s tastes are basically different,” she adds. “So what’s important for us is the ambience, with the music not too loud so we’re able to chat comfortably.”

“We also love places where they maximize natural light by having plenty of windows, like this restaurant,” Ernanda says referring to VIEW. Their favourite eye-catching spots in the capital includes Blue Jasmine, Potato Head Garage, Tugu Kunstkring Paleis, Table8 at Hotel Mulia Senayan, and Esina at Plaza Senayan.

Back to Sapori Deli, as our food arrived—which included a risotto, spaghetti nero, and a bacon-rich pizza named The Naughty Boy—Ellyse displayed her big family upbringing characteristic— “We would order anything and we would each try each other’s food!”—by sharing her food and soon we all followed her lead. While besides her, Ernanda seems quietly content with his choice of meat-friendly dish.

Ernanda and Ellyse are considered Instagram celebritis or “celebgram” — avid uploaders of their travel adventures or simple everyday lives—which includes what they’re eating.

ERNANDA PUTRA IG: @ernandaputra ELLYSE SINSILIA IG: @esinsilia

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FOODIE CONFIDENTIALS

“Yeah we don’t normally look at food reviews online because I think people’s tastes are basically different.

So what’s important for us is the ambience, with the music not too loud so we’re able to chat comfortably.”

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FOODIE CONFIDENTIALS

MULLIE MARLINA & ANDY PAU story by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE RAMON venue LYON AND MO BAR at MANDARIN ORIENTAL JAKARTA

catches the myfunfoodiary.com couple off guard and asks them to spill the beans about their beloved secret comfort food hideouts.

FOODIE CONFIDENTIALS THE INDONESIAN food blogging world has grown considerably in the last few years. The early generation of bloggers from the late 2000s sparked the community with their love for food which has brought about a new generation of dedicated foodies.

Now, as everyone can see, blogging and Instagram have become two different dimensions that support one another. Adding more colorful tones to this rich world are Mullie Marlina and husband Andy Pau. They have been passionately sharing their stories about food and travel on myfunfoodiary.com since 2012.

Their blog was initially started as a general blog in 2011, but Mullie since then has been asked more and more about food. “That’s when I decided to be serious with food

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by giving recommendations on where to eat and giving out recipes as well”, shares Mullie, who actually an English teacher by profession.

Husband and wife, Mullie and Andy have been handin-hand with their foodie adventures. From dining experiences in Jakarta, to foreign trips to Japan and Taiwan, they have been active in sharing their moments with their tens of thousands of Instagram followers and the thousands of viewers of their blog.

Meeting them quite recently during the month of romance, I decided to ask about what the ideal date night should be for this couple. While Mullie prefers something more casual - like having a hearty pecel from a street-side shack for dinner or having comfort food at their favorite places.

Andy begs to differ. He is a

true romantic, once he says: “We were scheduled to have dinner at Lyon of the Mandarin Oriental Jakarta. I secretly asked the hotel to prepare a special bouquet of roses for Mullie and to deliver present it for her as a surprise. It was truly memorable.” Mullie’s gestures said it all, that it was the same thing about how it felt for her as well.

I also asked if they had other secrets to share about their favorite food places. The couple was one in wanting to share about their Bandung experiences. “One time on a trip to Bandung , we visited this Sundanese restaurant. Not only was everything really good, I particularly fell in love with their fried eggplant. Seriously, eggplant! It’s something that I wasn’t really keen on eating, but at that restaurant, it was really unimaginably good”, she says. One time, they brought

the whole family for this eggplant dish alone, and they all shared the same sentiments.

However, their everlasting addiction is actually about the very thing that millions of Indonesians are fond of. Yes, you got it right. Noodles!

“There’s this place on Jalan Hayam Wuruk where they serve Hokkien-style noodles with a lot of toppings. People would crowd the place every day and it closes early at 2pm,” shares Mullie. However, the Hokkien mee is one among many places that they mentioned to me during our hours and hours of fun talks about food. Not just from Jakarta but as far as Bandung and covering a lot of unique ingredients.

Indonesia is not short of wonderful combinations when it comes to noodles and don’t be shy to ask this couple if you want to know where their secret havens are.

MULLIE MARLINA & ANDY PAU www.myfunfoodiary.com IG: @myfunfoodiary

Husband and wife, Mullie and Andy have been hand-in-hand with their foodie adventures.

From dining experiences in Jakarta, to foreign trips to Japan and Taiwan, they have been active in sharing their moments with their tens of thousands of Instagram followers and the thousands of viewers of their blog.

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FOOD HEROES

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THE INTERNET GENERATION of today is more resourceful than ever and it is now easy for anyone to excel at something at a much faster rate, very different from what we used to know.

In the ever-evolving culinary world, chefs out there are showcasing their skills in such amazing and undiscovered ways. This greatly helps many aspiring professionals in the F&B industry.

However, in light of these technological development, would people rather use the easy way to achieve their dreams or to actually explore their aspirations by means of the harsh, old ways? Bara Pattiradjawane is of the latter, the self-taught breed. He learned the hard way since the time when these privileges never existed.

His inspirations purely came from his love of his grandparents’ cooking skills – something that he never thought would drive him to this occupation now.

Living the days of his youth in The Netherlands with his immigrant grandmother, Bara was not only exposed to European food culture but also to a sense of nationalism as well. He fondly recalls the time when his grandmother cooked daily for the whole family, “It seemed easy for me back then. Grandma put all the ingredients in and then the dish was finished. We then gathered at the dining table to eat together with the rest of the family.”

Among the most memorable dishes that his grandmother cooked for him was the lamb chop rica-rica. “Despite her many years abroad, she never forgot her homeland. Her stories about Indonesian food and culture were, unconsciously, the foundation that made me who I am today”, says the Supercook.

Chef Bara says that his development as a full-fledged man of the kitchen has been very natural. His love for cooking grew from a mere hobby but with no expectations that he would one day enter the career professionally. During his early years, Bara traveled all over Europe in search of inspiration and self-taught himself through new and used cookbooks that he bought during his journeys.

Even so, his academic background and early occupations actually had nothing to do whatsoever with cooking. When he returned to Indonesia in the early 90s, he spent several years working in different industries.

Until in 1995, Bara finally decided to become a cooking professional.

“Rejections were commonplace for me during those years. They would say that I am unfit for the role or that food was not an interesting subject for them”, he smiles widely, proving that the errors then were worth the experience and that now he clearly shows that he has made it.

Through his many brilliant years as a TV presenter via his memorable “Gula-Gula” show, many hours of cooking demos, four cookbooks, and now his own YouTube channel called Bara Supercook; Bara has constantly shared his love for his native Indonesian food.

“Never underestimate Indonesian food. It took me a lot of time to learn about it and it’s all about how to balance these rich spices and ingredients for the right harmony”, explains the chef.

BARA ‘THE SUPERCOOK’

PATTIRADJAWANE story by RIAN FARISA photographs by RIAN FARISA AND BARA PATTIRADJAWANE’S PERSONAL COLLECTION

Chef Bara “The Supercook” Pattiradjawane his words of wisdom shares with from his many years of hardships and achievements.

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FOOD HEROES

“Never underestimate Indonesian food.

It took me a lot of time to learn about it and it’s all about how to balance these rich spices and ingredients for the right harmony.”

Even so, he laments the fact that people nowadays are more into foreign food.

“Like one time when I became a judge for a cooking competition. The child participants told me that they would rather learn European cuisines than Indonesian food since it did not interest them because of the difficulty.”

“And then I said to them, ‘It’s okay for you to learn about their food but always remember where you came from no matter what. We have brown eyes and black hair, but we will still be nobody even if we’re good with their cuisines. But if you show yourselves that you are good with Indonesian cuisine, then that is something’”, spirited as he says this.

Bara is now more grateful than ever, especially with the official release of his latest cookbook at the 2015 Frankfurt Book Fair and his current role to promote Maluku cuisine.

“I was appointed by the

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city of Ambon as their culinary ambassador. My plan is to introduce Maluku cuisine to everybody here in Indonesia.

Something that even many chefs here don’t know much about,” Bara proudly reveals.

For the younger cooking professionals out there, Bara shares his words of wisdom, wrought after the ups and downs of working past 21 years in the business: “Never think that it’s all about fame and luxury by being on television. It’s all about hardships. The kitchen is a tough place to work, even if my shows were shot by the sea or at Mount Bromo”, shares Bara. “It’s not all about getting into television one time and already you start telling everybody that you are a real chef while you’ve only a recently graduated from cooking school. Please stay humble, prove your creativity, turn in the hard work, and don’t forget our roots once again with the Indonesian food.”

BARA PATTIRADJAWANE Twitter: @BaraSupercook IG: @barasupercook www.barasupercook.co

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THE WEEKEND COOK

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Modern

BROUGHT TO YOU BY

MIE AYAM story by JED DOBLE photographs by DENNIE RAMON

Oxone Battle Chef first runner up Fransiskus Wahyu shares with us his modern interpretation of a beloved classic, mie ayam.

HIS SKILL and creativity belie his age, 21 year old Fransiskus Wahyu almost made it to the top spot of last year’s Oxone Battle Chef grand finals, winner Muhammad Razif beating him just by a few points. But today, he is king of the Oxone kitchen.

Wahyu tells me that he got into cooking just as a hobby. He grew up seeing his mother and grandmother toiling at the kitchen. Him mom in particular influenced him a lot. “My grandmother always cooked at big family events like Chinese New Year and birthdays. Her favorite is kacang joglo cooked with pork, babi kecap and other pork dishes. My mom on the other hand, likes to cook Indonesian food, hence I like cooking Indonesian food also.

One of my favorite dishes that my mom prepares is sop ikan Batam, but my ultimate favorite is her rendang. The rendang itself is very, very caramelized and is cooked for many hours over very low heat.”

During his third year of senior high school, Wahyu was toying with the idea of being a politician or an architect. But he said to himself, he would

rather do something he loved to do, so he eventually chose cooking. So he enrolled himself in a hospitality management degree at Trisakti University, where he is now on his third year.

For his dish, Wahyu wanted to reinterpret the Indonesian classic mie ayam. He made his noodles from scratch with the help of the Oxone Noodle Machine, using beet room juice instead of water. This gives the noodles a slight pigment plus an earthier taste. “I love noodles and I love everything made from scratch. So when Oxone asked me to make a noodle dish, I pushed myself to create the beet root noodles from scratch,” the young chef shares. He pairs the noodles with a roasted chicken which he marinated in ginger and garlic, plus one of his favorites, his modified sambal matah.

Wahyu tells me that he loves spice and sambal is one of his favorite condiments. He tosses the noodles in the sambal matah oil and serves it with the roasted chicken and the sambal matah. In my opinion, the dish is fresh and interesting with the perfect kick from the sambal. It is a must try!

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MODERN MIE AYAM Serves: 1

INGREDIENTS:

Beet Noodles 200 gr Hard Flour,

Sieved 1 pc Egg 50 ml Beet

Concentrate 1 pinch Salt Roasted Ginger Chicken 2 pcs Chicken Breast 6 pcs Garlic Cloves 3 cm Ginger

Salt

Pepper

Sugar Modified Sambal Matah 50 gr Shallots, sliced 20 gr Garlic, chopped 5 gr Bird’s Eye Chili,

sliced 5 gr Red Chili, sliced 1 stalk Lemongrass,

chopped finely 3 pcs Kaffir Lime

Leaves, sliced thinly 2 tbs Lime Juice 1/2 tsp Shrimp Paste,

roasted,

chopped 4 tbs Vegetable Oil

Salt

Pepper

Sugar Garnish

Pangsit Crackers Cherry Tomatoes Chives Edible flowers

Noodle Machine OX-355AT • Made of High Quality Material • Stainless Steel Body • 3 Functions Mode • Easy Setting & Smooth Roller

Master Slow Juicer OX-875 • Fit One Whole Apple & Tomatoes, • 75mm Feeding Tube, • Reverse Button, • Smart Anti - Drip Cap • Power : 240 Watt • Little Pulp & High Water Content

STEPS

Beet Noodles • Mix together flour and salt.

• Create a well in the middle and add beet concentrate and egg.

• Mix well. Kneading the dough until well incorporated.

• Make a thin sheet of dough by using the Oxone Pasta Maker. Letting the dough pass through 3-5 times.

• Shred the thin dough by using the Oxone Noodle Maker.

• Cook the noodles. Boil water, add salt and oil. Put the noodles in only when the water starts to boil. Cook for 30 seconds.

• After cooking, immediately immerse the noodles in ice cold water, to stop the cooking process. Set aside.

Roasted Ginger Chicken • Marinade chicken with garlic and ginger, plus salt, pepper and sugar for at least 20 minutes.

• Pre-heat the Oxone Oven to 180 degrees Celsius • Pan sear the chicken until brown on all sides.

• Using aluminum foil, create a package and place the chicken in with garlic, a bit of oil, and ginger. Fold and seal the package.

• Place on a rack in the oven and bake for 35 minutes.

• Once cooked, open the package and slice the chicken.

Modified Sambal Matah • Mix all ingredients except oil in a bowl, • Heat the oil in a pan. Then add to the ingredients.

• Season with salt, pepper and sugar.

Garnish • Heat pan, place noodles in and the oil from the modified sambal matah together. Toss for 2 minutes till noodles are heated through.

• Plate the noodles, add the sliced roasted chicken and top with additional sambal matah.

• Add the garnishes to the plate.

THE CLASSICS

BANDOENGSCHE MELK CENTRALE story by RIAN FARISA photographs by RIAN FARISA

Follow us as we turn back time to the olden days when Bandung became the center of the whole country, known for its milk and butter produced by the Bandoengsche Melk Centrale.

THE ONLY ONE of its kind in Indonesia, Bandoengsche Melk Centrale (BMC) is a milk producer with a long history, even decades before the country’s independence, and is still existing up to now.

BMC was opend in 1928 and became the country’s first and foremost milk producer – surviving the Dutch colonial era, Imperial Japanese occupation, and now privatized by the Indonesian government.

Like coffee, the production of milk in the country was started by the Dutch colonialists. But it was the South African Boers who settled in the heights of Lembang whowere the key proponents of dairy production, motivated by the highly suitable terrain in the area.

This effort was supported by the colonial government, which in turn imported cows from Frisia, a province in The Netherlands known for its dairy products. Even today, the crossover breed between cows from Frisia and SchleswigHolstein in Germany retain its reputation as the world’s most productive dairy cattle.

To this day, all the milk 78

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produced at the dairy farms in Lembang are still delivered fresh to Bandoengsche Melk Centrale. The milk is pasteurized and sterilized, and has become the favorite of the citizens of Bandung.

The company enjoyed its heyday during the colonial era and it was boasted to be an important gem for the whole Dutch Indies.

However, the turbulent times came during the Japanese occupation. It was even recorded that the early years of the Indonesian government marked the decline of BMC. Left as it is, BMC had to survive with old equipment and limited resources until it finally went into a “coma” for around two decades.

My recent visit was of course, very nostalgic.

Remembering my childhood and my college days visiting this place evokes a lot of memories. There’s always a heartwarming sensation whenever I paired a glass of iced sweetened fresh milk with toast or French fries and sausage. It’s the same ritual that my family used to do whenever we visited this place back then or any milk café in Lembang.

BANDOENGSCHE MELK CENTRALE (BMC) Jalan Aceh no. 30, Bandung T: +6222 420 4595 OPENING HOURS: Daily, 10am – 10.30pm SPEND: IDR 15,000 – IDR 30,000 / person

Today, the menu at BMC is more formidable. The decades spent perfecting the milk are reflected in the immense selection. If you are the traditionalists, then you should opt for the plain milk or yogurt. If you are up for the sourest taste with more health benefits, try the kefir.

However, the best choice that I made was the grape yogurt with homemade vanilla ice cream which was divine to accompany the nibbles.

In the end, it was ultimately the long legacy of the business that saved the day.

BMC has been reorganized several times and now remains Bandung’s pride and joy as an establishment that encompasses more than just milk and yogurt. It is also a place to enjoy local fare, coffee and also freshly baked goods.

BMC was opend in 1928 and became the country’s first and foremost milk producer – surviving the Dutch colonial era, Imperial Japanese occupation, and now privatized by the Indonesian government.

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SEARCHING FOR STREET FOOD

NASI BEBEK KHAS MADURA BU HAMIDAH Pasar Mini Indah - Puskopau Lanud Halim Perdanakusuma Jalan Maphilindo, Jakarta OPENING HOURS: Daily, 8am – 8pm SPEND: IDR 20,000 – IDR 30,000 / person 80

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NASI BEBEK KHAS MADURA BU HAMIDAH story by RIAN FARISA photographs by RIAN FARISA

Nasi bebek is ubiquitous in Jakarta, but among them, few have become my personal favorite. This time, let’s travel to the eastern part of Jakarta to meet Ibu Hamidah and her wonderful recipe.

FOLLOWING the trails of good food can lead you to unexpected places, especially with street food. Unbeknownst to many; wonderful street food can be elusive as they may appear only during odd hours, tucked inside a residential area, hidden among the tenants of a chaotic traditional market, or even playing hard to get by moving around frequently.

Our hard-to-find favorite this month is dedicated to nasi bebek khas Madura.

Originating from the island off coast of Surabaya, the people of Madura have migrated to many parts of Indonesia and usually draw their fortunes from ironworks and food businesses. The latter especially has a special place in the hearts of many Jakartans with the appearance of nasi bebek around the city, mostly at night.

Ibu Hamidah’s nasi bebek comes from a very wellthought recipe. Firstly, it was all about the marination process and Ibu Hamidah successfully infuses the flavors into the duck. It was already flavorful and delicious

even without any dipping sauce or other forms of accompaniments – other than good old fashioned warm and fluffy rice with serundeng on top.

Not just that, the duck was very crispy and was a large portion which really works well for big eaters, like me.

What also deeply enamors her nasi bebek fans is Ibu Hamidah’s super fiery sambal.

Savoring the duck profoundly and getting myself wet with pouring sweat actually reminded me of what Anthony Bourdain used to say: “I’m sweaty, but I’m happy!”

She not only serves duck, but chicken and catfish as well. That may seem ambitious for a small stall, but from the number of patrons coming in, I would say she’s made.

Be sure to drop by at Ibu Hamidah’s wonderful nasi bebek if you happen to be around Halim Perdanakusuma Airport. A bit of detour to the Pasar Mini Indah inside the residential area would reward you with an excellent and fulfilling lunch, more than you can imagine.

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SEARCHING FOR STREET FOOD

NASI GULE PAK LASIMIN Jalan Lamandau III (right on the intersection) Jakarta OPENING HOURS: Daily, 7am – 3pm SPEND: IDR 10,000 – IDR 15,000 / person 82

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NASI GULE PAK LASIMIN story by RIAN FARISA photographs by RIAN FARISA

Nasi gule is big in Blok M, but nobody knows that Pak Lasimin is among the pioneers of this comfort food in Jakarta.

Tag along for a great breakfast at his place.

THE NEIGHBORHOODS around Blok M and Kebayoran Baru are some of their best places to eat hidden from the main streets.

It’s not that they are elusive or even exclusive - since many of them are openly visible like the hawkers behind Masjid Al Azhar for example, but there are those that require a bit more effort with to find, but

be ready to be rewarded with great food.

Nasi gule is rather common-place in Jakarta, albeit not as obvious as ketoprak, mie ayam, or bakso.

The easiest find is at Jalan Mahakam, from sundown until dawn, there are so many of them available. However, there are only a few which

“I started selling nasi gule in 1978 at the Blok M bus terminal. There weren’t so many of us back then, but look at it now at night!” are available during daylight.

One of the best belongs to Pak Lasimin on Jalan Lamandau, just behind the Gran Mahakam Hotel. As you enter the street, Pak Lasimin’s pushcart is already there at the intersection since as early as 7am until late in the afternoon.

Like any typical Solo nasi gule, a claypot is filled with all the curry and meat. Pak Lasimin’s version also includes tempe and the offal. My choice was only the meat and despite coming from secondary cuts, Pak Lasimin cooks it thoroughly so you won’t be pestered with a lot of chewing.

With his uber-rich broth, a bit of sambal and kecap manis, plus some crackers; I am in heaven, and will never hesitate to have seconds.

One by one, I witness customers visit his cart and enjoy their breakfast. It is quite unbelievable that even if Pak Lasimin’s pushcart is somehow

hidden like this, people from different backgrounds actually come by to have his superb nasi gule. Assisted by two helpers, Pak Lasimin operates his business efficiently and never forgetting to show his winsome smiles to the patrons as well.

“I started selling nasi gule in 1978 at the Blok M bus terminal. There weren’t so many of us back then, but look at it now at night! I decided to move here in 1995 and I am thankful that the home owners here allowed me to open my business,” explains Pak Lasimin.

I curiously asked why Pak Lasimin decided to sell his nasi gule in the mornings instead of typically at night, and he had really good answer. He said laughingly, “At night, I couldn’t stand getting sleepy!”

Well, now it’s almost time to have my third serving.

Should I or should I not?

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Our

Bangkok Food Adventure story by GUPTA SITORUS AND PRIMO RIZKY photographs by GUPTA SITORUS AND PRIMO RIZKY

People consider Bangkok the capital of the Southeast Asian culinary world. Thai cuisine has won the hearts of people around the globe, so it is not surprising that to many food lovers, Bangkok is like Mecca. We came to Bangkok with huge expectations to taste the seemingly endless choices of traditional and Western foods the city has to offer.

story by JED DOBLE

FOOD TRIP

Khao Man Gai is definitely a perfect choice for lunch.

THIS JOURNEY BEGAN from the center of the city.

Sukhumvit is a CBD area and during midday, office employees can be seen flocking the numerous food stalls which abound. It is almost like the typical Jakarta warung, humble stalls that serve simple but comforting home cooked dishes. The most common food offered in this area is chicken rice. Far from the rice and fried chicken dish with sambal that is usually served at stalls in Jakarta, the Bangkok version chicken rice is more like the popular chicken rice that we can find all over the Southeastern Asia region.

This popular one-dish meal is known as khao man gai, it is a local adaptation of Hainanese chicken rice, but is lighter in taste due to the less oily rice and chicken. In each portion of khao man gai, you will get a piece of boneless braised chicken breast served over jasmine rice that is cooked in chicken broth and chicken fat to create the hearty savory taste. The rice has just the right texture, not too soft, not too dry. As condiments, it is served along with slices of cucumber, cilantro, and a bowl of soup. If you want, you can order side dishes such as blood jelly and chicken 86

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liver or chicken gizzard. As true foodies, we went for the complete package: chicken rice, blood jelly and chicken liver and gizzard. The warm rice and juicy chicken were a perfect combination, served in an appropriate portion that will not give an instant full stomach. The blood jelly had a very unique texture although it tasted a bit bland. Khao Man Gai is definitely a perfect choice for lunch.

And because there was still enough room left after our khao man gai, we decided to try traditional Thailand snacks that can be found along the Rama Road from Sukhumvit to Siam. Here you can choose from among the large varieties of snacks, from the sweet snacks such as grilled banana with coconut sugar syrup, colorful steamed snacks, traditional crepes with coconut cream and foi khong - unique strings made of egg yolk and simple syrup – filling, to modern snacks such as waffles and fruit juices. Our favorite?

Of course, the khanon bueang, or Thai traditional crepes.

The heavenly combination of crunchy crepes, creamy filling and the sweet foi khong makes it really hard to stop munching this delectable snack. This dish comes in small portions, so please excuse us if we had two portions at a time!

Traditional markets are always listed in our trip plan.

In Bangkok, we visited Or Tor Kor Market, which is located a bit outside of the city center.

This market provides huge choices of fresh produce

such as meat, fresh seafoods, fruits and vegetables, and also ready-to-eat snacks. A quick glance at the market and we could see that Or Tor Kor was not your typical market. It is neatly organized and clean, making it a fun destination for sightseeing, shopping, or for simply taking great pictures to be shared on your Instagram.

No wonder CNNGo dubbed Or Tor Kor as the world’s 4th best fresh market a couple of years ago.

We tried several snacks that were offered at small stalls inside the market. One of the most appealing snacks here was the sticky rice platter, which consisted of bite-size sticky rice balls topped with sweet condiments, such as candied grated coconut and kaya custard, as well as the savory coconut and crispy shallots. We spent several hours at the market and closed our visit with a lunch at the food court area. For lunch, we had khao soi, a traditional noodle dish that originates from the northern part of

Thailand. It was a humble bowl of egg noodles in a coconut milk-curry broth, topped with juicy chicken thigh, crispy noodle, pickled cabbage, fresh slices of shallots, and chili oil.

It did not look like much, but it was so satisfying!

Besides Or Tor Kor, there is another interesting market on Yaowarat Road. Yaowarat started as the dwelling of Chinese immigrants in Bangkok, but now it is a popular Chinatown area that has some of the best stores selling Chinese food products, spices and exotic tea. Wait until it turns dark because Yaowarat Road transforms into a food court area with its popular seafood barbeque. It’s a must try!

Culinary escapades at night has become a huge part of the culture in Bangkok. Many restaurants and food stalls serve until late night, providing food for those who still wish to dine. Along the Silom area you can find great street food to satisfy your late night cravings, from pad thai to oyster omelet.

It did not look like much, but it was so satisfying!

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But if you want a spicy and refreshing tom yam for your dinner, you’d better visit a stall in Petchaburi area named P’Aor / Pe Aor. Tom yam here comes in a special version, because it uses condensed milk in the broth. Don’t worry, this addition does not change the taste of tom yam into something overly sweet.

Instead, the P’Aor version of tom yam has a surprisingly creamy yet refreshing taste.

Large prawns presented in each portion makes P’Aor tom yam even more special.

After spending a few days exploring the old city area and tasting a variety of traditional foods, we were curious about 88

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the more urban culinary scene in Bangkok. Just like other big cities in Southeast Asia, Bangkok has a growing food and beverage industry with numerous newly opened businesses, ranging from coffee shops, food trucks, to fine dining establishments.

If you want a taste of the Bangkok urban dining experience, you have to explore the Thonglor area. Just like Tiong Bahru in Singapore or Senopati in Jakarta, Thonglor is an area that has became a hipster enclave. One of the legendary ‘occupants’ of Thonglor is Roast Coffee.

This coffee shop had gained a reputation among the coffee

communities in Southeast Asia and is indeed a must-visit destination for coffee lovers.

However our personal favorite was Casa Lapin x49 that is located not far from there. The fact that this place is a bit hidden in a blind alley made it more interesting because it gives the

impression of a secluded and intimate getaway. It is a very comfortable place to enjoy your me-time with a book and a cup of special coffee that you can choose from their menu.

For the record, Casa Lapin uses single origin coffee beans from the Jomthong area in Chiang Mai. But Thonglor does not only have coffee shops, because there are also plenty of casual dining establishments that are worth visiting. The ABC Essence in Eatery, which is located on the 3rd floor of a community mall, is a fusion concept restaurant that is always packed from brunch until the afternoon, although this place is still relatively new. We tasted some of their signature dishes. First we had the Japanese-style Skinny Sumo Salad, a combination of mixed greens, tofu tempura, shitake mushrooms, kimchi roll and yakitori, with drizzles of miso ginger dressing. This entrée is dominated by the sweet taste of the dressing and it has layers of different textures. Our main course was Duck Confit, which was served with a stunning presentation, fitting of a gourmet restaurant.

The confit was served over prune risotto, along with condiments of beet mayo, duck ju, and parmesan foam.

This dish really stole our hearts.

The savory duck confit was brilliantly balanced with the slightly sweet prune risotto. We noted to ourselves that we will order this again on our next visit to ABC Essence.

Having experienced the widespread development of the Bangkok culinary scene ourselves, we were curious to find out more about artisanal food products that normally

The P’Aor version of tom yam has a surprisingly creamy yet refreshing taste. Large prawns presented in each portion makes P’Aor tom yam even more special.

Sloane’s applies strict principles to choose the pork and beef that they use – all must be free-range, free of antibiotics and growth hormones, and slaughtered humanely. develop in line with the culinary industry. Some colleagues in Bangkok informed us that artisanal food products are still not very popular. However, there are several brands that are gaining popularity, one of which is Sloane’s. It is the brainchild of Joe Slane, a top chef who recently decided to start producing artisanal products.

Sloane’s offers processed meat products in different variants; ranging from sausages like chorizo, bratwurst, beef stout (beef sausage flavored with stout beer), savory pork and apple, to cured meats such as bacon, pastrami, and ham.

Interestingly, Sloane’s applies strict principles to choose the pork and beef that they use – all must be free-range, free of antibiotics and growth hormones, and slaughtered humanely.

The products of Sloane’s can be found at their deli

located in Bangna area, a little on the edge of Bangkok. In addition to selling their own products, Sloane’s also offers other artisanal food products like cheese, fruit preserves, bottled sauces, and kombucha from a variety of other gourmet brands. Another place worth trying product is Heaven on Cheese, which produces various kinds of soft cheese like brie and camembert.

And so our two week adventure in Bangkok finally ended. We had to go home, but we are back with good memories of Bangkok as a heaven for foodies who want adventure in flavors with a wide selection of food - from traditional food to modern international cuisine. All of the food that we tasted there had successfully left a deep impression and made us immediately want to go back to Bangkok.

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HAPPY HOUR

Top Wine GIFT Picks story by JED DOBLE

We know that we pair wine with food. Generally white is lakes with seafood and chicken, while red is paired with beef and meat. But have you ever thought of pairing wine with people. Read though as we help you decide which wines to give your friends. Remember, wine is best enjoyed with people you care for.

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HAPPY HOUR

FOR the Childhood Sweetheart

For the Wine Aficionados

For the Wine Connoisseur

Reminisce the sweetest moments under the stars with a bottle of Beringer Founders Estate Merlot. With hints of plum and brown spice on the nose complimenting the boysenberry, blackberry and blueberry finish on the palate. It’s well-balanced, soft tannins make this wine a perfect accompaniment for sweet memories.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Merlot is the perfect gift to woo your seasoned wine drinker without blowing a hole in your pocket. A rich tasting, complex wine with enhanced softness derived from the blending of the three classic grape varietals, this vintage will be sure to delight those who truly understand fine wine.

Totally impress your favourite wine connoisseur with your impeccable taste with a bottle of Penfolds Bin 389. Echoing the delectable flavours of sweet red currant, dried plum and dark chocolate, this vintage will help set up a truly unforgettable evening with your special someone.

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For the Love of your Life

For the Lady who Loves Luxury For Yourself, Pamper Yourself

As a relationship matures, the spontaneous acts of affection often wanes. Pleasantly surprise the love of your life with an exquisite bottle of Rosemount Diamond Label Shiraz. With its full bodied, juicy sweet palate with cherry, chocolate and plum flavours, this vintage will be sure to help rekindle your passion!

Nothing says money’s no object like a bottle of Penfolds Grange, universally recognised as Australia’s finest wine.

Demonstrate your willingness to splurge just to pamper your loved one with this coveted vintage.

Why should you always be the gift giver.

Open a bottle for himself, it’s always a good time for a bottle from the Lindeman Early Harvest range. The fruity and refreshing Lindeman’s Early Harvest range is lighter in alcohol and calories when compared to wines of the same style.

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• March 2016

93

ON MY PLATE

Meeting up with chefs can be a lot of fun. During these talks, it’s fun to discover how much a foodie they can be, outside of work!

CHEF SUSANTO – THE STREET FOOD LOVER story by RIAN FARISA photographs by RIAN FARISA

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March 2016 •

CHEF SUSANTO, Grand Hyatt Jakarta’s Chef de Cuisine for Grand Café, is a big fan of street food and other comfort foods. Despite his storied career at big hotels since his first gig at Menara Peninsula and to The Ritz-Carlton Mega Kuningan Jakarta, The Monarch Dubai, Century Park Hotel Jakarta, and now at the Grand Hyatt Jakarta; he does not forget about his foodie roots.

Chef Susanto has his own list of hidden street foods gems around Jakarta and other cities, a list he guards very well, noting each place’s distinctive specialties compared to the rest.

Of course his favorite is still the smoky chicken satay – the most beloved of night street food and commonly found at many corners across Indonesia.

“The best part comes from the chicken thigh - which is naturally the richest but also meatiest part of the chicken, and it has to come also with the fat! Grill it right and have it your way with the peanut sauce. Nothing beats that!” he says excitedly.

He mentions other street food places he loves to spend his time at and apparently some of them are iconic.

“Ragusa is very enjoyable with its choice of classic flavours. However, what I am lamenting most is the fact that Tan Goei has been closed forever,” he explains.

After talking for around an hour, you’d think Chef Susanto had already shared all his favorite street food, you’re wrong. He continues to tell me about his other favorites: mie ayam, nasi goreng, soto and many more. Now that’s what I call a genuine foodie.

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