FoodieS Ramadhan Issue by Jed Doble

June 2016

Vol. 01 • Issue 04

CELEBRATING RAMADHAN Ramadhan Tips Sezai’s Ramadhan Memories Colonial’s Modernist Ta’jils FoodieS at Ubud Food Festival

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

THE PUBLISHER’s NOTE June 2016

CELEBRATING RAMADHAN THE HOLY FASTING MONTH of Ramadhan is upon us. It is a time of prayer, sacrifice and reflection. But it is also a time of gathering and celebration. In my years living in Indonesia, I have experienced a number of fasting months and have to say that I admire my Muslim friends and colleagues who perform their fast. As a foodie, it is really tough to go without food and drink from sunrise to sunset. A highlight for me is of course the breaking of the fast. It is a time to gather and rekindle relationships, partaking of the Iftar always gives me a sense of kinship with my Muslim friends. My only wish is that, like all celebrations which are normally accompanied by food, excitement over the food does not diminish the importance of the fasting sacrifice. This issue we share a number of profiles of our foodie friends. We begin with Chef Ahmad Jamil of Le Meridien Jakarta who shares with us some of his Ramadhan moments and also some recipes. Our good friend chef Sezai Zorlu of Turkuaz and Warung Turki shares also his Ramadhan memories in his usual interesting and candid self. And we also speak to chef Zul Dahlan of Colonial Cuisine & Molecular about his modernist ta’jils.

June 2016 •

Erza Setyadharma met two award winning chefs at Madrid Fusion Manila, chefs, Joan Roca of Celler de Can Roca, and Yoshihiro Narisawa of Narisawa in Tolyo, No. 2 and No. 8 respectively on the World’s 50 Best list. Plus interviews with chef Luke McLeod of The Legian Bali and Richard Suter of Sheraton Grand Jakarta. And of course interspersed between these profiles are our best choices for Iftar meals and our tips for the fasting month. I hope this month’s issue isn’t too much of a temptation for those who are fasting. Wishing our Muslim friends and colleagues a blessed Ramadhan. Ramadan Kareem!

Jed V. Doble Publisher @jed.doble

OUR GUESTS

MANPALAGUPTA SITORUS Managing Director

JED V. DOBLE Publisher

JUKE BACHTIAR Creative Director

AKHMAD BAIHAKI (AKI)

DENNIE RAMON

Photographer

HIMAWAN SUTANTO Photographer

Himawan did portraiture for editorial, advertising and design clients for many years and also had a stint doing commercial photography. His love for food and travel brought him naturally to turn his lens on food and lifestyle which he thoroughly enjoys. He has recently been traveling to take photos for a global hotel chain. When not away shooting photos he tries to spend as much time with his newborn son.

Entusiastic and dedicated Aki has been a professional photographer for over 10 years now. Originally from Mojokerto, East Java, in his spare time, he loves to travel, watch and play his favorite sports and listen to music.

Writer

June 2016 •

RIAN FARISA Editor

His years spent food blogging and writing for notable publications such as Time Out Jakarta, Jakarta Post, mise en place, several in-flight magazines, and now FOODIES - has actually brought him to one realization. That even after countless of encounters with great chefs, delicious recipes, and fine-dining establishments; nothing beats good kaki lima treats or his beloved wife’s cooking at the end of the day. Check out Rian’s works on his blog gastronomy-aficionado. com and Instagram @gastronomy.aficionado

Erza S.T. Erza S.T. is best known as the founder and executive producer of Indonesia Opera Society, which is responsible for producing a range of excellent classical music concerts and opera performances in Indonesia. However, Erza’s second biggest love and interest after classical music and opera is food. His food writing pursuit began in 2000 when he assisted Laksmi Pamuntjak for the first ever “Jakarta Good Food Guide.” His writing can now be regularly found in Indonesia Design magazine, FRV Bali, Now! Jakarta and JPlus of The Jakarta Post.

Head Photographer

HIMAWAN SUTANTO AKHMAD BAIHAKI (AKI) ERZA S.T. DIVYA PRIDHNANI Dian Arthen Contributors

BOEDY ASTUTI Office Manager

Mukti PelupessY Distribution Assistant

DENNIE RAMON Cover Photographer

Divya Pridhnani Writer

Dian Arthen Writer

Dian is a business management graduate who found her true passion in storytelling. She has a keen interest in writing profile stories, loves to bake, watch movies and TV series and dreams of living in New York City someday.

Divya Pridhnani is an Indo-Indian freelance writer focusing on food reviews, lifestyle features and social causes across the archipelago. She is a major foodie, with a passionate love for seafood and everything spicy! Also, she loves dogs. Her personal life quote is: “Our insanity often keeps us insane”. Visit her blog at dpridhnani91. wordpress.com

For advertising inquiries:

info@foodies.id

www.foodies.id

FOODIES is published monthly. FOODIES and its logo are registered trademarks. COPYRIGHT 2016 The Publisher reserves the right to accept or reject all editorial and advertising material. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or copied without the explicit written consent of the Publisher. Neither the Publisher, editors and their employees and agents can be held liable for any errors or omissions, nor any action taken based on the views expressed or information provided within this publication. All rights reserved.

ON THE MENU

June 2016 | Vol. 01 | Issue 04

COVER STORY 32 | Ahmad’s Ramadhan Special Moments 36 | Sezai’s Ramadhan Memories 40 | Colonial’s Modernist Ta’jils

COVER FEATURE 44 | Dawn Boosters 46 | Stay Productive While Fasting 48 | Traditional Eid-al Fitri Dishes

June 2016 •

ON THE MENU

54 FOOD HEROES 50 | Joan Roca: 15 Minutes with The No. 1 Chef in the World 54 | How Yoshihiro Narisawa Puts Sustainability in Gastronomy

THE WEEKEND COOK 58 | Chef Degan’s Gado Gado

Foodie Confidentials 62 | Luke’s Bali 66 | Richard Suter: Heart In The Kitchen 70 | Chef Patrick Maurin

THE CLASSICS 74 | Nasi Ayam Betutu Pak Sanur

SEARCHING FOR STREET FOOD 76 | Cikwo

ON MY PLATE 78 | Chef Andrian’s Food Affair

62 10

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ON THE PASS

Ubud Food Festival:

FUN, FULFILLING FESTIVAL story by ANDRE ARDITYA photographs by ANGGARA MAHENDRA - UBUD FOOD FESTIVAL

June 2016 â&#x20AC;¢

Bursting with local flavors and produce as well as culinary enlightenment, the second edition of Ubud Food Festival brought together culinary icons and activists from across Indonesia and the globe to take part in the festivity.

WITH BACK-TO-BACK enlightening yet egalitarian discussions and ever-flowing delicacies from food stalls, and head-bobbing live music, this year’s Ubud Food Festival was a joy for all the senses. Returning for its second year from 27-29 May this year, the three-day Ubud Food Festival (UFF) 2106 rode the wave of global food movement passionate about ethical eating and understanding the story and journey of food. From in-depth forum sessions discussing the future of the archipelago’s food industry, to various locally-driven food served on thousands of plates, UFF 2016 celebrated Indonesian food in all its forms: from farmto-plate, producer-to-palate. A prevalent theme of UFF 2196 was strengthening linkages between business and local producers, with a series of cooking demonstrations on the Kitchen Stage, Think, Talk, Taste

sessions and special events focused on educating audiences on the importance of supporting local industries. Sustainability was also a key topic of discussion, with panel sessions canvassing trends in Indonesian farming, fishing and production, and the need for improved commitment – from farms to consumers – to protect Indonesia’s heritage foods. Increasing awareness amongst Indonesian audiences of healthy eating also featured heavily in the program. Local school children and culinary trainees from in and around Ubud were invited to attend the Festival’s cooking demonstration series, instilling inspiration for the next generation and awareness in the community. “Our country has not done enough to promote our culinary diversity and wealth,” said culinary icon Bondan Winarno, at the event. “I sincerely hope • June 2016

ON THE PASS the Ubud Food Festival will more and more be the force to promote Indonesian traditional cuisines, particularly thosewith a focus on healthy eating.” One of the highlights of the discussions was when Indonesian culinary legend and TV chef Sisca Soewitomo told tales from her 40-plus-year career in food. Another one saw Filipino chef Margarita Forés, Bali chef Gede Paskara Karilo and Indonesian TV chef Farah Quinn sharing their personal food journeys, their diverse international experience, and how both the local and the global have had a transformative effect on how they think about, and create, food. Some of the most packed kitchen workshops were a kitchen cook-off of traditional Balinese favourite, sate lilit, between Balinese chef Made Lugra and street food chef Will Meyrick as well as when chef

June 2016 •

Margarita shares her Filipinomeets-Italiano fusion Balsamico Adobo Short Ribs. On another session, multiaward winning mixologist, Raka Ambarawan, combined unique local ingredients to create world-class concoctions; in the other, raw food chef Made of MOKSA and traditional masterchef Jay of The Royal Purnama competed for audience’ votes for the best sambal creation. Eyes were glued on the stage as chefs Nic Vanderbeeken of CasCades Restaurant and Julien Royer of ODETTE in Singapore demonstrate the secrets of their signature dishes in a must-go event for serious foodies with a seasoned palate. Participants were also invited to get their hands dirty as Bisma Eight’s head chef Duncan McCance walked them through the world of sourdough and rye and French-trained pastry

whizz multi-award winning chef Dedy Sutan help them discover techniques to create the finest chocolate creations. A beautiful and laid-back setting for the food festival was enjoyed by visitors through Ubud’s Taman Kuliner, a mixture of umbrella-laden, bean-bag strewn grassy lawns and lanternlit walkways. The bustling food hub, which was hosted inside a palm-roofed open-air pavilion, housed stalls from noted local establishments such as Padma Resort Ubud, Bali Buda, Uma Cucina, Queens of India and Alchemy Restaurant. Adjacent to the hub was the Pasar Senggol which offered tasty Bali street foods, including the famed nasi janggo and bakso. Needless to say, all speakers and participants left UFF 2016 with bellies full and mind sharpened, and still hungry for next year’s event.

“I sincerely hope the Ubud Food Festival will more and more be the force to promote Indonesian traditional cuisines.” - Bondan Winarno

From in-depth forum sessions discussing the future of the archipelagoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s food industry, to various locally-driven food served on thousands of plates, UFF 2016 celebrated Indonesian food in all its forms: from farm-to-plate, producer-to-palate.

â&#x20AC;˘ June 2016

ON THE PASS

FoodieS x Qubicle at the UFF

photographs by MATT OLDFIELD

story by FOODIES X QUBICLE photographs by ANGGARA MAHENDRA AND MATT OLDFIELD , UBUD FOOD FESTIVAL

June 2016 â&#x20AC;¢

The Ubud Food Festival (UFF) 2016 unveiled many surprises for its enthusiastic visitors. FoodieS and Qubicle were hand-in-hand to organize two highly successful and memorable workshops at the festival. ONE OF THE SOLD OUT workshops during the UFF was the Qubicle x FoodieS workshop entitled “Will Write For Food“conducted by FoodieS publisher Jed Doble. Jed is a respected publisher and has many years of experience in food writing. He started his publishing career as a contributor in a number of magazines in his hometown of Manila. When he moved to Indonesia, he joined Time Out Jakarta first as head photographer and then became Food & Drink editor. A real foodie, Jed says that he has always been passionate about food, even when he was young. As Indonesia’s culinary obsession continues to grow, the sheer volume of food-related articles, blogs and reviews has evolved food writing to a fine art and a respected industry. Whether you’re starting your own food blog or you’re a budding Bondan Winarno, it is important to get creative insights and practical tips, hence the idea to have a food writing workshop. Jed started the workshop by giving a short lecture, sharing is experiences in food writing as well as giving some of his go-to tips to make food writing more interesting. “Lots of food writing use

the words: delicious, yummy, amazing. This doesn’t really share anything about the food or the restaurant aside from that it is a positive experience,” Jed shared. “It is important to give better descriptions of the food

and experience. The best way is to use adjectives which not only rely on the sense of taste but use also the rest of the five senses.” Jed then brought out three dishes which he asked the participants to write about about,

without using taste adjectives. In the end some participants shared their writing and according to Jed, the outcome was very interesting. “Most of those who shared their writing were very inspired,” Jed revealed.

photographs by MATT OLDFIELD

• June 2016

ON THE PASS started his blogging career with the spirit to seek better places to eat in Jakarta. Initially, he shared his experiences with fellow foodies through an email mailing list service but as time passes by, he found a sanctuary to share his views about Indonesian food at blog.epicurina.com. Here, he nurtures the ideas about how Indonesian cuine could be more internationally acknowledged while also providing professional food writing services.

Jed played another important role he acted as the moderator and the three in turn shared how their love for food could be translated into a business that is independent, professional, lucrative, and also a very passionate one. The enthusiastic crowd also took turn asking interesting questions, making the session a very productive one in addition to the successful sold out Will Write For Food workshop.

“It is important to give better descriptions of the food and experience. The best way is to use adjectives which not only rely on the sense of taste but use also the rest of the five senses.”

photographs by ANGGARA MAHENDRA

In another session, FoodieS and Qubicle presented a panel discussion about food entrepreneurship that took place in Taman Kuliner, right at the heart of the festival. This FoodieS x Qubicle workshop featured two prominent Indonesian food bloggers as the speakers - Rian Farisa and Bayu Amus. Rian Farisa has years of experiences being a food writer, something that he had been aspiring into since he launched his blog gastronomy-aficionado. com in 2009. Since then, Rian became a contributor for lifestyle magazines such as Time Out Jakarta and several in-flight magazines, in addition to local newspaper. Currently, he enjoys his role being both a full-time food writer and producer of various culinary themed videos. Meanwhile Bayu Amus

June 2016 •

â&#x20AC;¢ June 2016

photographs by ANGGARA MAHENDRA

ON THE PASS

JAMU SORBETTO? Of course! Why hasn’t anyone thought of this earlier? Gelato Secrets launched the new products at the Ubud Food Festival (UFF) 2016 in Ubud on May, prompting curiosity from the local and foreign visitors. The jamu collections features three age-old Indonesian herbal remedies: Beras Kencur, Kunyit Asam and Wedang Jahe, which the gelateria says are derived from secret recipes handed down through generations. Jamu is the ancient Indonesian tradition of medicinal healing and holistic therapy, a millennia-old practice using natural herbs and spices to treat ailments and preserve the natural balance of the human body for optimum health and well-being. Traditionally, Beras Kencur is made of rice powder and kencur (kaempferia galangal, also known as sand ginger) and is known to help increasing appetite, eliminating aches and fatigue, eliminating heartburn and cough, 20

June 2016 •

GELATO SECRETS’ Secret Jamu Recipes story by ANDRE ARDITYA

Gelato Secrets Bali’s own all-natural passionate Italian gelateria chain has introduced an exciting line of jamu (Indonesian traditional medicinal herbs) collection in form of sorbetto! rejuvenating the skin as well as strengthening and brightening hair. Kunyit Asam is made of kunyit (turmeric) and asam (tamarind juice). Kunyit Asam is known to help strengthening and reducing pain during woman’s menstruation, battling the flu, supporting liver function and helping the skin shine.

Wedang Jahe is ginger ale usually made with palm sugar. Ginger is known as remedy for treating nausea caused by motion sickness, preventing and treating cold and flu, reducing pain and inflammation and many more. Gregory Carlo Lentini says that he and the gelateria cofounder Maria Indah has always

sought medical insights of Indonesia’s traditional healers and rich biodiversity. “By combining the natural medicines of Indonesia with modern innovation and technology, we want to revive this cultural wisdom and heritage in the form of carefully crafted, authentically Indonesian jamu sorbetto,” Gregory says.

The gelateria is already famous for its Italian classics and exotic Indonesian flavors derived from seasonal local fruits and spices since they first open in 2009. Some of the exquisite flavors include Chocolate Valrhona, Salted Butter Caramel, Coconut Pandan, Guava Strawberry, Passion Fruit, Chocolate Chili and Ispahan. Like all products of the gelateria, the jamu sorbetto are made fresh daily, using locally sourced, hand-ground herbs and spices, brewed meticulously to activate their nourishing properties. “As with all of our gelato, the sorbetto are 100 percent natural, free from artificial coloring, flavoring and preservatives,” Gregory says.

GELATO SECRETS Jalan Monkey Forest, Ubud, Bali T: +62 361 8989630 IG: @gelatosecrets Twitter: @gelatosecrets Facebook: gelatosecrets www.gelatosecrets.com

• June 2016

ON THE PASS

Pizza at

THE LEGIAN BALI’S

Ocean Bar story by JED DOBLE photographs by AKI

June 2016 •

As the weather heats up, so does the pizza oven at The Legian’s Ocean Bar. SET ON the shores of Seminyak Beach, home to sun, sea and serious surf, The Legian has established itself as one of Bali’s iconic resorts. With the backdrop of enduring modern architecture and swaying coconut trees and stunning sunsets enhance memories made at this stunning resort perched along the Indian Ocean.

For many, a stay at The Legian is synonymous to a stay in Bali, highlighted by the unparalleled service their personal butlers give. An afternoon laying on a day bed by the pool or beach is enough to while away time. The Legianâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ocean Bar provides food and refreshments for those who want to spend their afternoon or even their day by the beach. A highlight now is their wood fired oven wherein they make the best thin crust pizzas on the Island. To compliment the light and easy menu of the Ocean Bar, executive chef Luke McLeod has designed a number of pizzas which are great to enjoy while you watch the surf crash into the beach. If you ask me, the perfect meal for a lazy beach day. Each pizza is made fresh to order and is baked in the wood fire oven. Whatever toppings you pick, the light char on the crust is perfectly accompanied by a beer or a cool cocktail. Just writing about this makes me want to go off to the Island. When you are next in Bali, head on over!

THE LEGIAN BALI Jalan Kayu Aya, Seminyak Beach, Bali T: +62 361 730 622 IG: @thelegianbali www.lhm-hotels.com/legian-bali

â&#x20AC;˘ June 2016

ON THE PASS

IFTAR Invitations story by RIAN FARISA AND ANDRE ARDITYA

Throughout the holy month of Ramadhan, establishments across Jakarta have prepared special set menus and offers for guests looking to break their fast with colleagues, friends and family. Do check some of these for yummy and tummy-filling breaking of fast.

Potato Head The award-winning steakhouse, Potato Head Garage, will be serving a gourmet set menu which begins with its innovative interpretation of tajil selections, followed by a main of either roasted marinated spring chicken with mushroom buttered rice or a wood-fired grilled 150g Harvey black label tenderloin with yuzu chili sauce and roasted vegetables, guaranteed to satisfy your taste buds and lift your spirits. Potato Head Jakarta also welcomes the month of Ramadhan with sumptuous creations made with finest local and seasonal produce and sourced from Indonesiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own abundant Archipelago. This includes Greek Salad (Kalamata black olives, feta cheese, cucumber, lemon olive dressing), Falafel (Eggplant, tahini salad), Coconut Curry Salmon (Baked in jati leaves, pandan wangi saffron rice) and Coriander Lamb Stew with butter glazed potatoes.

LE MERIDIEN JAKARTA Jalan Jenderal Sudirnwn Kav 18-20, Jakarta T: +62 21 2513131 Twitter: @meridienjkt IG: @lemeridienjkt Facebook: lemeridienjakarta www.lemeridienjakarta.com

June 2016 â&#x20AC;˘

POTATO HEAD GARAGE SCBD Lot 14 Jalan Jend. Sudirman Kav. 52-53, Jakarta T: +62 21 57973330 Facebook: pttheadgarage POTATO HEAD JAKARTA Mall Pacific Place Lt. G 51A Jalan Jenderal Sudirman Kav 52-53, Jakarta T: +62 21 57973322 Twitter: @Ptthead Facebook: Ptthead

Le Meridien Jakarta Le Meridien Jakarta has created a host of exclusive offers to celebrate the holy month with unique dining experience with sumptuous iftar buffets at AI Nafoura and Le Brasserie Restaurant. AI Nafoura will bring the unique taste of iftar buffet offerings prepared by the Middle Eastern Specialties Chef, Ahmad Jamil, in the authentic atmosphere. Experience a plentiful array of sumptuous authentic Middle Eastern specialties and beverages as well as Barbeque Station by the poolside. Buffet price is at IDR 395,000 ++/ person including special fasting drink, hot tea, and juices. La Brasserie, the all-day dining, will offer a delicious theme iftar buffet featuring a lavish spread of mouth-watering Indonesian specialties and International favorite recipes with an assortment of traditional sweets and refreshing juices. During Ramadhan, La Brasserie will charm guests with its calm and relaxing atmosphere and traditional live music. Buffet price is at IDR 375,000 ++/ person including hot tea, ice tea & juices.

Fairmont Jakarta Fairmont Jakarta offers a selection of delectable iftar feast to celebrate Ramadhan. Spectrum, the hotel’s innovative all-day dining restaurant, offers an extended dinner buffet for iftar feast. Available at IDR 375,000++ per person, guests are able to break the fast with an extensive range of Indonesian, Western and Middle Eastern specialties. For those who prefer a family-style feast, the hotel’s Italian restaurant, Sapori Deli, offers delicious home-cooked feast in a 5-course family-style set menu, including the ta’jil buffet. The Ramadan family-style set menu is available at IDR 280,000++ per person. The Ta’jil Buffet is also available to be enjoyed separately, priced at IDR 80,000++ per person. Known for its outstanding petit fours and decadent sweets, Peacock Lounge features locally inspired cakes and pastries, dates, Arabic inspired tea sandwiches, artisan chocolates and savory delights that will be served in Peacock’s Ramadan Special Ta’jil Box. Peacock’s Signature Afternoon Tea Set is served on regular time from 1 to 5 p.m., while the Ta’jil Box is available from 6 to 9 p.m. Both are priced at IDR 380,000++ per set including coffee or tea for two persons.

FAIRMONT JAKARTA Jalan Asia Afrika No. 8, Jakarta T: +62 21 29703333 IG: @fairmontjakarta Twitter: @fairmontjakarta Facebook: fairmontjakarta

The Dharmawangsa Jakarta THE DHARMAWANGSA JAKARTA Jalan Brawijaya No.26, Jakarta T: +62 21 7258181 IG: @thedharmawangsajakarta www.the-dharmawangsa.com

In welcoming the holy month of Ramadan, The Dharmawangsa Jakarta presents special iftar feast choices: Pesisir-style Ramadan at Jakarta Restaurant & Courtyard, Ramadan at the Garden by the Pool with Indonesian great kingdoms-inspired décor, and Lebanese Iftar at Bimasena Lobby Lounge. Appreciating the richness of Indonesia’s culinary, Jakarta Restaurant and Courtyard will showcase a wide spread of the flavorful buffet menu from “Pesisir” (coastal regions of Indonesia). This iftar buffet with casual yet stylish atmosphere is available at Rp 585.000++ per person (adult). Inspired by the Nusantara’s kingdoms of Sriwijaya, Singasari, and Klungkung, The Dharmawangsa has also created a specially decorated tent and table setting, offering an iftar buffet of Indonesian, International, and Middle Eastern (Lebanese) cuisine selection. Guests at Dharmawangsa will also be offered to break their fast at our Bimasena Lobby Lounge in Middle Eastern theme with Lebanese specialties in a lesehan style adorned by Middle East décor and ambience. The buffet features an exquisite array of Lebanese cuisine as well as Indonesian and International buffet menu (Western, Japanese, and Chinese corner). Indonesian menu includes the signature Nasi Campur Dharmawangsa, Jakarta’s street food, as well as traditional Indonesian sweets for ta’jil and dessert. The buffet is available at Rp 585.000++ per person (adult).

• June 2016

ON THE PASS

Cooking and Bonding at

ALMOND ZUCCHINI story by ANDRE ARDITYA photographs by ALMOND ZUCCHINI

Where there is food, there are people; where there are people, there is connection. Working together with our family in the kitchen has taught us how to build solidarity and trust, and strengthen bonds through a lot of fun. Almond Zucchini is bringing this concept to the larger arena.

June 2016 â&#x20AC;˘

RECENTLY, I was invited to join a press event held by Almond Zucchini at its facilities in South Jakarta for what they described as a team building activity. Established by food enthusiasts and senior corporate professionals with deep human resources experience, Almond Zucchini is offering an innovative new concept. Almond Zucchini is offering a great environment for strengthening relationships, promoting teamwork, getting to know another, and learning about new ideas while having a wonderful time learning about the A to Z of cooking, getting your hand dirty in the kitchen and ultimately enjoying a feast with your teammates. I joined the team building at Almond Zucchini Cooking Studio in Prapanca, South Jakarta, on May. Not all in attendance were food journalists; as a matter of fact, not all were journalists. Some were creative workers and entrepreneurs as well. Needless to say, not all were familiar with workings of the kitchen. There were around 20 participants, not all knew each other. We then joined a game where we introduced ourselves in a big circle.

Afterwards, we were divided into two teams. Each team were given 90 minutes to prepare an appetizer, a main course and a dessert enough to share between the team members. After an hour into the challenge, we were given another task of making a salad dish. Each team picked a leader and divided the tasks. I got to help a team member make a dessert. In the large kitchen studio, with appliances, work stations and stoves, and a big clock on one of the wall, it truly felt like I was in a Master Chef episode. Cooking, presentation and taste were examined by Chef Ragil Imam Wibowo. Throughout the rush and confusion of making pasta and baking cake, we took part in the building of a team: noticing who had the knack of leader ship, who was doing better at certain task, who was needing help and more. “Cooking, in general, is similar to running a company. We need to be careful in planning ahead and cooperating with colleague in distributing and executing the task under a certain pressure for a common goal,” Rianto Hidajat, Almond Zucchini owner, said.

“Cooking, in general, is similar to running a company. We need to be careful in planning ahead and cooperating with colleague in distributing and executing the task under a certain pressure for a common goal.” • June 2016

ON THE PASS Cooking together, he continued, helped build companionship and open people to each other. Cooking welcome all to join and work together in creating something. True to the concept, the Almond Zucchini is designed as an open and liberating space. Almond Zucchini, according to Rianto, offer a creative getaway place where people can play, learn and be inspired: corporate team building events, private dining parties, cooking classes, special product launches, pop up restaurants and many more. By working together in teams, people learn to work together, build solidarity and trust, and strengthen bonds in a fun and no-stress environment. It was a highly satisfying and

June 2016 •

unusual training experience that took me out of the rigid routine. It’s cost and time effective too. Almond Zucchini offered team building activity at Rp 750,000 to Rp 1 million per person for an activity that really boost bonding and teamwork that last several hours including briefing and games, cooking and dining together. Compared to more time spent and energy output needed for the garden-variety team building activity such as rafting and camping, cooking really come as winner. “We cook the meal together, we eat the meal together. Whatever we made, we accept and enjoy. That’s another push to cook your very best,” Rianto added with a smile.

“Cooking together, helped build companionship and open people to each other. Cooking welcome all to join and work together in creating something. True to the concept, the Almond Zucchini is designed as an open and liberating space.”

ALMOND ZUCCHINI Jalan Prapanca no. 6, Jakarta T: +62 21 7399303, +62 813 30179342 IG: @almondzucchini Twitter: @almondzucchini Facebook: AlmondZucchini www.almondzucchini.com

â&#x20AC;¢ June 2016

CELEBRATING RAMADHAN Ramadhan is upon us. It is that time of the year again when people are heading out for a feast for the senses every evening before the peak of the celebration of the Idul Fitri at the end of the fasting month. As Muslims around the world fast from dawn to sunset, fast-breaking meal, also known as iftar, become a special occasion. Social gatherings are frequent at iftar as Ramadhan is a time where people seek to reunite and gather with friends and family. Now, iftar has grown into larger social event with hearty and lively special meals, and thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s where we will be!

COVER STORY

AHMADâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

Ramadhan Special Moments story by ANDRE ARDITYA photographs by DENNIE RAMON

For Le Méridien Jakarta’s Middle Eastern Specialties Chef, Ahmad Jamil, Ramadhan means special time for family and, of course, food! BORN AND RAISED in Jordan, Chef Ahmad has a lot of memories about the holy month. However, for him Ramadhan is about spending time with family and enjoying special meals. “During Ramadhan, you’re guaranteed to have meal with your family every single day of the month. In our family, those working or studying out of town will usually be back home for Ramadhan. “These meals with the whole family are the most important thing for us,” says Chef Ahmad, who started his culinary career at the age of 16 working at hotel in Jordan. In Amman, similar like in Jakarta, Ramadhan is the month of special food. “A lot of special food will be abundant during the month. Food and cakes that you can only get during Ramadhan.” “There are food shops and stalls which open only during Ramadhan. The owners have other day job throughout the year, but during Ramadhan they would sell their special dishes; dishes you can’t get any other time of the year,” Ahmad explains. More than the food, Ramadhan is an important time for Ahmad to spend with his mother in the kitchen. “During the month, whenever I can, I will go back two to three hours before the iftar. My mother and I, the two of us would work in the kitchen preparing iftar meal for the whole family.” “Those four to five hours

before and after iftar are the most precious time for me during Ramadhan. I just love spending time in the kitchen with my mother. You’re fasting and hungry, but you’re working with lots of food; I just really enjoy it,” Ahmad says. Unlike Indonesian people, who would break the fast with light snacks and drinks before digging into a big meal, people in Jordan break the fast drinking water and juice and go straight for a huge meal. “It’s a feast with the whole family. We would stop eating to do our prayers and then return to continue the meal,” Ahmad says with a big smile. One of the chef’s favorite dish during the Ramadhan is the maqluba. Maqluba has all the richness from the combination of chicken, rice, vegetables, and Middle Eastern spices. The rice absorbs flavor from the stock and then later combined with the chicken. Vegetables included in the rice are such as potatoes, cauliflowers, and eggplants. This casserole-like dish is served upside down after the cooking process, from which the dish gets its name. Overseeing, Le Méridien Jakarta’s authentic Lebanese Al Nafoura Restaurant, Chef Ahmad is bringing the festivity of Ramadhan to the establishment. During the month, Al Nafoura is the offering guests to savor the unique taste of its iftar buffet offerings prepared by Ahmad

himself. The chef is hopeful that he could bring Ramadhan joy and happiness with a plentiful array of sumptuous authentic Middle Eastern specialties and beverages as well as barbeque station. Al Nafoura means ‘fountain’ in Arabic. In the past, nearly all Middle Eastern homes have fountain where people would relax and cool off during the day, or gather and eat together at the end of the day. “The region comprising Lebanon, Syria, Palestine and Jordan shares similar food characteristics compared to other Middle Easterns regions like the gulf countries or those in the north African territories,” explains Ahmad. Among the cuisines of its neighbors, Lebanese cuisine is unique. For appetizers, it has cold mezzeh, with a number of condiments and bites such as the hommos, tabouleh, samboussek; the main course mostly use lamb meat like in the lamb shank and lamb kofta kebab. “For vegetables, Lebanese food incorporate a lot of onion, garlic, coriander, mint, parsley, and a lot of aromatic herbs,” Ahmad says. Chef Ahmad is happy to spend his second Ramadhan in Jakarta. “Despite the traffic, which I don’t need to get through a lot of it to work, Jakarta is really a fun city. I also love traveling to other regions of Indonesia.

LE MÉRIDIEN JAKARTA Jalan Jenderal Sudirman Kav 18-20, Jakarta T: +62 21 2513131 Twitter: @meridienjkt IG: @lemeridienjkt Facebook: lemeridienjakarta www.lemeridienjakarta.com

• June 2016

COVER STORY

It’s a feast with the whole family. We would stop eating to do our prayers and then return to continue the meal

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COVER STORY

SEZAI’s

Ramadhan Memories story by RIAN FARISA photographs by RIAN FARISA

Ramadhan is both whimsical and spiritual for Chef Sezai Zorlu of Turkuaz and Warung Turki. Recently, the chef imparted his country’s culturally rich Ramadhan festivity for FoodieS. WARUNG TURKI was bustling with activity. It was 10.30 am and the staffs were already busy for lunchtime service. Long days ahead for everyone here at Warung Turki since they will be open until late in the evening for Euro 2016’s crowds and before that, the iftar preparations. The Sezai Zorlu that I knew and heard so much, the chef/ proprietor of both Warung Turki and Turkuaz, is someone who instills discipline and idealism with his cooking methods. It was evident through his crews’ busily preparing everything neatly but swiftly as well before the customers start arriving. Finally, the man arrived. Dashing as always, with his sleek hair and attire entered the establishment with one hand holding the prayer beads. Like an old friend, Chef Sezai greeted me warmly and we sat – casually catching up since the last time he cooked us his special kağit kebabi a month before. Born and raised in the town of İskenderun, half an hour away from the war-torn Syria, it’s hard for him to not jump into talking about politics as his views would be unique on what’s actually happening in the region, but it’s better to stay on the course and talk about food. Chef Sezai’s eyes lighted up as he happily

reminisced about his childhood memory of Ramadhan. “Ramadhan in Turkey is festive and very cultural. We have traditional treats and other customs that reminds me of my home and my childhood”, the chef shared. Even starting from as early as suhoor, his family prepared the early meals very seriously. “I remember every member of the family participated with the meal preparation. My aunt was cooking, the bread was freshly baked, and then my mother would gently wake me up when the meals are ready”, says the chef with a nostalgic gaze. He then went to the length that Ramadhan in Turkey is all about togetherness. People who can’t get home right on time for iftar would not be worry as charity foundations would host passersby inside tents built only in Ramadhan and available on many corners of cities to treat their iftar for free, every single day! “When it comes to food, Turkish people are also very mindful about what they eat during Ramadhan”, he said. “After you fast the whole day, the iftar consists of sweet delicacy that will help you gain your energy back. Here in Indonesia, people would go after fried stuff and that makes your stomach

working so hard.” Besides gullac or the dry sheets made of corn starch and wheat flour added with milk, sugar, rose water, and sometimes spices and nuts; there are other unique Ramadhan treats in Turkey such as hoshaf or dried fruits with sugar and spices drenched in water. After absorbing the liquid, the fruits are served cold at room temperature. The fruits yield many nutrients and fiber while also keeping the sugar level low and these became a healthy yet refreshing iftar. “The rest of the iftar treats are also rather modest. Turkish people usually have only two or three kinds of dishes and not entirely about meat. There’s a balance in everything”, Chef Sezai told us. Clearly, there’s so much about finesse that Indonesians need to taste from the relatively unheard Turkish cuisine here in Jakarta. Sezai’s relentless effort in introducing refined yet authentic Turkish cuisine in Jakarta has garnered so much appreciation for both Turkuaz and Warung Turki. Before we part, FoodieS would like to share you Chef Sezai Zorlu’s recipe of his childhood treat. We welcome you to try and let us know about it!

“ Turkish people usually have only two or three kinds of dishes and not entirely about meat.” WARUNG TURKI by TURKUAZ Jalan Kemang Raya No.18 Jakarta T: +62 21 29055899 Facebook: warungturki Twitter: @warungturki IG: @warungturki

• June 2016

COVER COVER FEATURE STORY

June 2016 â&#x20AC;¢

Kağit Kebabi Serves: 1

INGREDIENTS: 200 gr 2 pcs 1 pc 20 gr 1 pc 1 pc 40 gr

Minced lamb meat Green chilies, chopped Onion, chopped Parsley, chopped Tomato, cut into 4 wedges Whole green chili Butter, cut into 2cm cubes Black pepper and salt to taste

STEPS • Mix well the minced meat, vegetables, salt and pepper. • Spread the mix in a tray with 1 cm thickness (can be round or square). • Add the tomato, chili and butter on top of the mixture. • Put into oven for 20 minutes at 200C. • Serve with bread.

• June 2016

COVER STORY

COLONIAL’s

Modernist Ta’jils story by RIAN FARISA photographs by RIAN FARISA

Break your fast this Ramadan with something more than just traditional, sweet delicacies for iftar; Colonial Cuisine & Molecular unveils its surprising creations only for you.

THE EVER ALLURING rich varieties of ta’jils are what millions of people in Indonesia are looking for during Ramadhan. Every household has their own tradition on how to break the fast they consider the best. Some prefer to cook their own ta’jils and present the kolak pisang warm and fresh for the whole family, but some will buy these colorful delicacies from the streets late in the afternoon. It’s interesting to see also that instead of purchasing food from traditional street food, people would also bring out tables and set them by the side of the road to parade their various kolak and fritters. Yes, some people like myself including, actually prefer savory treats for the iftar. However, Indonesians love affair with sweet openers for their buka puasa will never end. Colonial Cuisine & Molecular in Lippo Kemang Village is presenting something different with these wonderful sweet appetizers this Ramadhan. Known for its delectable modernist French cuisine and molecular drinks, Colonial utilizes the talent of Executive Chef Zulkarnaini Dahlan to create a lineup of ta’jils which are sure to tease not just your palate,

but your eyes as well. The idea is how to translate the traditionally known delicacies into a modernist presentation and additionally by also making use ingredients that would give more colors, better taste, and even adding another layer of texture. Chef Zul, as he iscalled, has all the experience he needed having completed tenures at Riva of Park Lane Jakarta and at Joel Robuchon’s in Singapore. Chef Zul, as he admits, is more of a proponent for modern interpretation of French cuisine and with Colonial‘s vision and resources at his disposal, he’s more than inspired to always present more than just the rustic version of the dishes. Chef Zul is also not shy when it comes to translate the demands of other types of cuisine as well. For example his 72 hours sous vide lamb shank and other Indian-inspired dishes are equally glorious. Now with the addition of his modernist ta’jils, it’s a proclamation that Colonial Cuisine & Molecular is a restaurant with many rooms available to be ever creative and that Ramadhan is a festivity of its own that needs to be celebrated.

SOP BUAH What’s more refreshing than assorted fresh fruits for iftar. Colonial has its own sop buah version with additional milk and sugar syrup with vanilla!

CENDOL All hail the ruler of all Indonesian desserts – the cendol! Colonial introduces more toppings to make it more colorful and added with red beans with the roasted nut to give more than the usual cendol.

COLONIAL CUISINE & MOLECULAR Lippo Mall Kemang Jakarta T: +62 21 2905 6891 www.colonial-jakarta.com

• June 2016

COVER STORY

KOLAK PISANG Colonialâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s modernist kolak pisang is perhaps the most unique among all. The banana is made crispy on the outer and the coconut milk is topped also with sweet potato, pearls, and grass jelly. The presentation is unlike what you have seen before! 42

June 2016 â&#x20AC;˘

BIJI SALAK UBI UNGU By using the taro to create the legendary biji salak or some would refer as candil, Chef Zul added a compulsory layer of santan with palm sugar sauce on the plate. The shining purple parade of these biji salak is then sprinkled with roasted nut and sesame tuille for extra crunchiness.

ES SAGU MELON This one is Chef Zulâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s personal recommendation. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nothing more indulging than jelly textures for the sweet iftar opener and es sagu melon utilizes the beloved tapioca pearls, pandan jelly, melon, and coconut milk. That extra layer of crunchiness is, surprisingly, came from crushed tempe!

COVER FEATURE

Dawn

BOOSTERS story by DIVYA PRIDHNANI

During the fasting month, sahur is the most critical meal of the day that will help your body to maintain energy, remain hydrated and withstand hunger from dawn till dusk. It is paramount to start sahur with enough water for long term hydration before preparing a meal that is high in protein, fiber, sugar and complex carbohydrates. HERE ARE some food that could play essential part in your predawn meal. (PS: You can also use these food for that summer-body diet!)

Dates Try to consume at least two dates during Sahur as they are a quick source of energy filled with sugar, fiber, carbohydrates, potassium and magnesium. Also, dates keep your blood sugar level balanced for a long period of time.

Whole Wheat Whole meal breads and oats, for example, are great sources of fiber. Fiber-rich foods help increase the feeling of fullness, promote good blood glucose levels and help with regularity. High-fiber foods can also help neutralize stomach acid and alleviate pain.

Rice Rice is (obviously here in Indonesia) a staple food

June 2016 â&#x20AC;˘

during Sahur as it is a complex carbohydrate that breaks down slowly into sugar, thus gradually releasing energy and keeps you full for a long period of time. However, it is highly recommended to consume highfiber red or brown rice instead of plain white rice.

Meat, Poultry or Fish Protein! Protein! Protein! It is absolutely important to have protein included in your meal to power your engine and keep your hunger pangs at bay. Some people prefer incorporating red meat to their diet such as lamb or beef due to its rich iron content, but for a more low fat option, replace the meat with fish or poultry.

Eggs Eggs are the lightest and healthiest source for protein with over 50 calories per piece, which also gives you a long-lasting

feeling of fullness. Eggs are only as versatile as your imagination, but the most common cooking style is hard-boiled egg as it is quick and easy to consume.

Green vegetables and Beans A balanced and healthy diet should always include green vegetables for itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s high-water content and nutrients. Include beans such as black beans, lentils and chickpeas to your mixed veggies for an additional fix of protein and fiber in your system.

Potatoes Potatoes are complex carbohydrates with appetiteslaying superpowers and are also rich in fiber. It takes a while to break down and stays in your intestine longer, thus delaying the onset of hunger pangs and maintaining the blood sugar levels. In addition, potatoes retain water, which will help keep your body hydrated and avoid gastritis.

Nuts and Dried Fruits Ward off your hunger pangs with help of dried fruits or nuts such as almonds, peanuts, raisins and apricots, which are also extremely rich in fiber, protein and sugar.

Fresh Fruits Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s always a good idea to include a bowl of fresh fruits in your meal. These should include fruits with high-sugar and healthy fats such as avocado and papayas, high in fiber such as bananas, also high-water content fruits such as watermelons and oranges.

Milk or yoghurt Before sahur ends, it is recommended to have a glass of milk or a bowl of yoghurt to prepare the stomach for long hours of fasting, while also being a great source of energy and healthy fats.

Dates Whole Wheat

Rice Meat Eggs Fresh Fruits

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COVER FEATURE

STAY PRODUCTIVE While Fasting story by DIVYA PRIDHNANI

So you have prepare yourself with fortified Sahur meal, but now comes the real challenge of selfdiscipline. Two of the most common challenges to deal with during Ramadhan are hunger and fatigue.

June 2016 â&#x20AC;˘

HERE ARE some tips to help you maintain a productive fasting month:

Pre-Plan A Busy Day Keeping your mind occupied is known to be one of the most effective methods to tackle hunger. By planning a packed day ahead and focusing on mental or physical activities, you are bound to distract yourself and divert your thoughts from temptations or weariness.

Have Adequate Sleep By getting quality hours of sleep, the body retains energy for a longer period of time. Both too little and too many hours of sleep can cause the body to experience fatigue, thus planning a proper shut-

eye at the correct time will allow you to wake up rejuvenated. Taking a short power nap whenever possible is also recommended to stay energized and engaged until the end of your fast.

Do Breathing Exercises Having a quality and steady level of oxygen in your system highly affects your mood and energy. Thus improving your breathing by taking longer and deeper breaths will significantly help tackle the issues that arise from long hours of fasting such as tiredness, acidity, irritability, loss of focus and more.

Drink Enough Water During the fasting season, it is vital to drink a lot of water at Sahur (pre-dawn meal) and Iftar (breaking fast at sunset) to keep the body hydrated through out the day and night. By having enough liquid retained in the system, the mind and body is more susceptible to tackle hunger, thirst and lethargy.

Do Some Light Exercise Light exercises such as brisk walking and short aerobics promotes deeper breathing and gives you a boost of energy instead of wearing you down. Attempt to squeeze in for light exercises during the day to maintain energy levels for a longer period.

Take the Right Scent Remarkably, sniffing certain scents can effectively curb your appetite. These scents include mint leaves, citrus fruits, lavender, essential oils and more. Keep your most effective scent handy every time you feel a hunger pang arising.

Keep Yourself Warm It has been scientifically proven that the appetite decreases with heat mainly because the body is working hard to keep cool, thus it suppresses the hunger in an attempt to lessen its workload. It is recommended to keep your body feeling warm in order to control the appetite but be wary of excessive perspiration.

Avoid Looking at the Time When experiencing a long period of fast from sunrise till sunset, it gets tempting to countdown the hours. However, constantly looking at the time will only demotivate you mentally and physically, especially when it is one of those slow days. Let the hours pass naturally and you will find yourself more at ease.

â&#x20AC;˘ June 2016

COVER FEATURE

Traditional

Eid-al Fitri Dishes story by DIVYA PRIDHNANI

Eid-al Fitri is a celebration that commemorates the end of fasting in the month of Ramadhan. Families, friends and relatives gather on this very day to share gifts, pleasantries and most importantly, food. HERE ARE some popular dishes you will surely find served in abundance on the table during the Eid-al Fitri celebrations:

June 2016 •

Ketupat Ketupat is one of the most mandatory foods during Eid al-Fitri in Indonesia. It is made of compressed rice wrapped in coconut leaves, which gives it a distinct flavor. The ketupat is usually cut into smaller cubes and served with other various traditional dishes in replacement of plain rice.

Beef Rendang Rendang is a meat curry dish cooked to reduce for hours in coconut milk, ginger, turmeric leaves, lemongrass, chilies, and other spices. This tantalizing dish originated from West Sumatera and is globally recognized as one of the “must try” dishes in the world.

Nastar Nastar is a popular snack during the Ramadhan period and is specially served in heaps during the Eid-al Fitri celebrations. The oven-baked cookie is filled with pineapple jam and usually comes in a small, round shape. With every bite, the cookie reveals a striking balance of sweetness from the doughâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s outer layer and fruitiness from the pineapple jam filling.

Putri Salju Putri salju, which means snow princess, is the childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most desirable snack during Eid-al Fitri. The baked pastry usually comes in a crescent-shaped and is generously coated with powdered sugar, covering it like snow.

â&#x20AC;˘ June 2016

FOOD HEROES

JOAN ROCA 15 Minutes with The No. 1 Chef in the World story by ERZA S.T. photographs by MADRID FUSION MANILA

People often asked how I feel when I meet and interviewed big personas like celebrities, designers or chefs. To be honest, it is never been easy. I often feel nervous and worried of not getting enough interesting material for the article. This similar feeling was definitely there when I have to interview Joan Roca during Madrid Fusion Manila event recently. â&#x20AC;˘ June 2016

FOOD HEROES AS AN AWARD-WINNING CHEF that holds the record for having the best restaurant in 2013 and 2015 (and for being ranked second in 2011, 2012 and 2014), Juan Roca I Fontané from Spain is definitely one of the biggest stars in the culinary world. Juan Roca enjoys playing cook as a child, but he grew up loving the kitchen. After graduating from Escola d’Hosteleria de Girona, he decided to go to France to get experience from some of the best institutions including Georges Blanc in Vonnas and later with Ferran Adria at the famous el Bulli. He opened his own restaurant Celler de Can Roca in 1986 in Girona in collaboration with the other his brothers Josep who is a brilliant sommelier and Jordi the uber talented patissier. Since then, the Roca brothers have mesmerized the world with their take on traditional Catalan cuisine. Michelin Guide gave them three stars in 2009 that lasted until now. Fifteen minutes with Joan Roca is definitely not enough as he is a super awesome gentleman! FoodieS (F): Your presentation at Madrid Fusion Manila was very interesting. What is your expectation from joining this event for the first time? Juan Roca (JR): I come and wish to learn with an open heart and open mind. I have never been to Philippine before and therefore I wish to learn many things while in here. The cooking style in this country is very different, even compared to others in Asia as the Philippines has the influence from the Spanish. It is nice to find all these nice connections between cultures. F: Last year we saw curry leaf as the new ingredient trend. In your opinion, what will be the next trend in terms of future ingredient? JR: It is not easy. Everybody is looking for things that they can get on the ground and try not to lose it. I like to find for something that is authentic and original. On my last travel to 52

June 2016 •

South America, I found insect to be a type of protein that gives not only flavors but also textures. To my opinion, this could be the future product. F: Can you tell us about your signature dish ‘the caramelize olive’. What is the inspiration behind that? JR: See, the olives are really Mediterranean and very Spanish. Olive is very staple thing in Spain. We have olives before eat and we also use it in tapas. Olive is really like a welcome to the Mediterranean area. My olive bonsai is like the Chinese ritual with tea that comes with a message to welcome you to the Mediterranean land. F: We saw you modernizing Catalan traditional cuisine using avant-garde principals like perfume cooking and sous-vide. Do you think this is the best way to contemporize traditional cuisine?

JR: Absolutely! This is the way I do it but of course with many respect to the tradition itself. We have to have an open mind to the culture and to always learn. The techniques are not everything, but it is more the manner on how to enjoy doing different things. F: On that note, can you share us the current trend in Spanish culinary landscape? JR: At the moment we have a concern on produce sustainability as well as its ecological effects. I guess to go green and be healthy is more on focus now. F: What is your key secret behind all the awards and success? JR: Passion is the key. It is a very hard work. To be happy and making others happy. These are the keys. You will find the magic behind it especially when you are living for your work. Being happy again is important to

create the equilibrium. However, I also believe that we need to have luck. F: Do you argue much with your two brothers in working together? JR: We don’t fight (chuckles). We talk a lot and it has been 30 years since we started to work together. We understand each other perfectly and share the same passion. F: The world knows you as a great chef, but who is the real Joan Roca? JR: I am a father of the family with two marvelous children who likes to ride bicycle together and enjoy the family time. F: What does 27 years of cooking teach you about being a great chef? JR: I am not the best chef. The best chef in the world is my mom (smiles).

“I like to find for something that is authentic and original. On my last travel to South America, I found insect to be a type of protein that gives not only flavors but also textures. To my opinion, this could be the future product.”

• June 2016

FOOD HEROES

HOW

YOSHIHIRO NARISAWA

Puts Sustainability in Gastronomy story by ERZA S.T. photographs by MADRID FUSION MANILA

The word ‘sustainability’ was becoming a trend when it was first appeared in 2006. Back then almost every field of life that we know of would like to be sustainable, thus standards to achieve sustainability were created.

• June 2016

FOOD HEROES FAST FORWARD that to a decade after, the word sustainability is actually overused and becomes unsustainable, especially when it is related to politic, economic or even environment. However, sustainability is not a bad concept when one can really commits to do it and not just using the word as gimmick instead. Award-winning Chef Yoshihiro Narisawa who is also the owner of eponymous restaurant Narisawa (previously known as Les Creation de Narisawa) in Tokyo clearly understand the sustainability concept and actually merge it into his ever changing menu. We meet Narisawa at Madrid Fusion Manila event, where he is sitting as one of congress speakers. During his presentation, Narisawa wow us with his sustainable gastronomy approach on keeping the cuisine and preservation of natural environment in good balance and connection. His sakura-themed dessert called ‘sakura and rice’ featuring sakura honey, flower and jelly under fresh sakura leaves is not only beautiful to see but also show high finesse, understanding of taste and knowledge to use what the nature has to offer within the season to his cooking benefit. When we finally get to talk to him, Narisawa shares with us that sustainable is not only used for ingredients but more on keeping the overall surrounding where the ingredients are originally from. “For example, it is important to keep a healthy forest because our forest is the one that creates carbon dioxides and the oxygen in the air that we

June 2016 •

breathe,” he says. “The forest will influence the ocean including the animal in it as well. So unless we can maintain a healthy environment in this planet, we will not able to actually have sustainable ingredients.” As a two-Michelin-Star Chef, Narisawa really choose his ingredients carefully and prefer to look into organic vegetables that has no preservatives or any artificial influence. This philosophy of his to ‘bring nature to a plate’ is not only refreshing but also a great effort to re-established our relationship as human with nature through food. With his long training in all over Europe from France to Italy in some of most renowned kitchen masters like Joel Robuchon, Fredy Girardet and Paul Bocuse, Narisawa has transformed formed into a chef that understand the essence of European culinary traditions and combine it with Japanese refinement, minimalism as well as high craftsmanship. Narisawa becomes a chef who is devoted to seasonal products. He is also known to choose daring product such as irabu sea snake from Okinawa, soil and tree bark. “Every season offers different products to me. At the moment I am looking at the seasonal reptile type because there are a lot of it in the ocean and in this planet. To my opinion, reptile does not exposed to chemical such as antibiotics compare to birds, pigs and other farming animals. So by using reptile, which is still quite untouched even by science; I think it would be better for the future.”

“Every season offers different products to me. At the moment I am looking at the seasonal reptile type because there are a lot of it in the ocean and in this planet.”

“Unless we can maintain a healthy environment in this planet, we will not able to actually have sustainable ingredients.”

To be in Philippines for the very first time also gave Narisawa a whole new experience as well as perspective on unique local food produce that he has never seen before. On the special dinner at Gallery Vask, where he collaborated with Chef owner Chele Gonzalez and Chef Virgilio Martinez from the famous restaurant Central in Lima, Peru; Narisawa surprised all of us by serving a dish called ‘baby pork and fruits’ featuring six hours marinated suckling pig from Tarlac city (baked in the oven to get the crispy skin before finishing off on the grill) and served with pickled jackfruit – a fruit that he has only discovered just few hours before the dinner started in a local market. With such strong commitment to the nature, it is no surprise Narisawa’s restaurant in Aoyama, Tokyo received the inaugural Sustanaible Restaurant Award from Restaurant Magazine last 2013. Still he is a very humble person who actually think that his work is far from perfection. When asked if he actually cooks at home, he goes for an event bigger smile. “Maybe only once a month. Then again I lives only 5 minutes away from the restaurant.”

• June 2016

THE WEEKEND COOK

June 2016 â&#x20AC;¢

Chef Degan’s

BROUGHT TO YOU BY

GADO GADO story by RIAN FARISA

Chef Degan proudly shows how to make a beautiful, avant-garde gado gado. DESPITE HAVING thirty years manning the hot kitchens of the world’s notable five-star hotels and resorts under his belt, Chef Degan Septoadji does not forget where he belongs. He shared with us a dish that took him to his roots. Indonesians are very familiar with a vast array of delicacies related to peanut sauce or peanut dressing, but gado gado may be the most popular among all. At the Oxone kitchen that day, the chef presented us with a new way to plate gado gado, which we personally found very attractive. “First we blanch the vegetables nicely in salted water and cooled down in iced water, so that it will become shiny”, he said. As a retainer of black belt in Indonesian and Thai cuisines, Chef Degan was very comfortable in improvising what’s best for his gado gado. The chef, who has seen years in hotels and resorts around Bali, The Bahamas, and Thai with a German hospitality educational background, is now sought by many who wish to learn more about Indonesian food. In addition to some fine showmanship as a jury of

MasterChef Indonesia for a few years, he now had the opportunities to share his expertise with larger crowd around Indonesia and abroad. Now, to finish his intriguing gado gado, Chef Degan has

something to say about it first. “We want the vegetables to also shine here and I decided to simply pour the peanut dressing on the base of the plate instead of covering the toppings. He then carefully placed the

colorful components above the sauce and he finishes it with thinly sliced chilies and emping. There you have it. A different breed of gado gado, wonderfully crafted by the benevolent Chef Degan.

• June 2016

THE WEEKEND COOK

GADO GADO Serves: 1

INGREDIENTS: Peanut Dressing 200gr Cashew Nut, peeled & fried 100gr Peanut, peeled & fried 1 tsp Salt 3 pcs Red chili 2 pcs Bird’s eye chili 1 clove Garlic, peeled ¼ tsp Kencur, peeled & chopped 1 tbp Palm sugar 200 ml Water 1pc Lime 100 ml Coconut milk Gado Gado 3 tbsp Peanut dressing* 3 pcs Kenya beans, blanched 1 tblsp Spinach, blanched 2 pcs Baby potato, cooked, cut & pan-seared 1 pc Baby zucchini, blanched & cut 2 pcs Broccoli sprigs, blanched 2 pcs Cauliflower sprigs, blanched 1 tblsp Cucumber, cut 1 tsp Soy bean sprouts, blanched 1 tbsp Tofu, fried & cut 1 tbsp Soy bean cake, fried & cut 2 pcs Quail’s egg, cooked 3 min & cut in half Emping chips Sweet soy sauce Fried shallots

OXONE-INDONESIA T: +62 21 98207006 +62 21 97841936 +62 81318000189 IG: @OxoneOnline Facebook: OxoneOnline Twitter: @oxone_indonesia Path: OxoneOnline www.oxone-online.com www.oxoneworld.com

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STEPS Peanut Dressing • Blend all ingredients, except water and lime, until evenly fine. • Add water and lime juice and stir evenly until smooth. • Put into a pot/pan and bring up to boil. • Add coconut milk and simmer for another 2 minutes. • Remove from heat, cool down and store in refrigerator for further use. Gado Gado • Place the peanut dressing in the center of the plate to create a round platform. • Arrange all vegetables, tofu, bean cake and quail’s eggs on top of the peanut dressing nicely. • Garnish with emping chips, sweet soy sauce and fried shallots before serving.

“First we blanch the vegetables nicely in salted water and cooled down in iced water, so that it will become shiny.”

• June 2016

FOODIE CONFIDENTIALS

LUKEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

BALI story by JED DOBLE illustration by AKI

Chef Luke McLeod of The Legian Bali is quiet and timid at first, but once he starts talking about food, it will be hard to get him to stop. “LIKE MANY CHEFS, a lot of my cooking flavors and menu ideas have been influenced by my childhood food experiences. Mum’s cooking was great and she is very imaginative in creating dishes with what was on hand,” Luke shares as we sit down on a balmy afternoon. Luke continues that when he was a kid, he and his brother and sisters would take turns making cookie and cakes, fighting over who got to lick the spoon and bowl. “I still remember the taste of my first Florentine!” His grandmother was a professional wedding cake maker and he got the best birthday cakes he says. “I have heaps of stupid photos of me as a child in front of a robot cake or race car track cake with a stupefied look on my face,” Luke reminisces. He then recounts what he fondly remember from his Grandma’s cooking: “Her delicious green beans -- how did she make kids love green beans! -- beef with red wine sauce and onion jam, bolognaise sauce, bacon sandwich with warm egg yolk on top, pea and ham soup.” Now he even uses his Grandma’s bolognaise recipe for the resort’s in-room dining menu. “I have just created a new dish: ‘Almost Grandma’s Pea and Ham Soup -- I use the bangkal hitam pork (Balinese free range organic pig) hock and make a ham hock broth as my

granny would and then cook lentils inside the broth, lightly creamed and blended, put into a siphon and we have a pea and ham espuma. I braise the pigs ears in a Chinese style and the sweetness and crunch really work well with the rich foam. Just don’t tell the guest they are eating pigs ears and they love it!” After a serious bike accident when he was 15 years old, in which he was briefly in a coma, Luke said that he had some problems at school during the recovery period.He had to leave school and his Mom found found him a college. She looked up some courses for him to take and offered him three, cooking being one. “I had always been good at cooking, it was good fun and easy. Mum also encouraged me to take the path and looking back I found my true calling in a time of despair.” Luke later on finished his certificate in cooking and did various apprenticeships in Queensland and worked too in Melbourne. In 2004 he moved to Paris to further his career. Luke names Chef Alexandre Bourdas as one of his mentors who greatly influences his cooking. “He was the last chef I worked for in France in a tiny town of Honfleur in Normandy at restaurant Sa.Qua.Na. It is a 28-seater restaurant with one single tasting menu and only one service.

“We created a daily menu based on the fish that we found at the port at 5:30 in the morning followed by the vegetables that we took at the local market. We prepared only what we needed which was easy to calculate as we were always full. His style of respect for the ingredients and attention to detail was contagious. We really gave our all to make the best food possible daily and never felt that prepping was just to be ready for a busy service. Our hard work and love paid off, after 2 years of being there we won our second Michelin star.” He left France after Sa.Qua. Na and had stints at Pierre Restaurant of Pierre Gagnaire at the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong and at the InterContinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam Resort in Koh Samui, before heading to Bali to join The Legian in 2014. “The great thing about working at The Legian is that we are a small boutique hotel with no set guidelines for food and beverage and an amazing kitchen and service team, led by Pak Edi, who has been here for years. We have great clients at the hotel that know a lot about restaurants and food. Our owners and the GM support us in developing our ideas and give us the equipment needed.” His dinner menu is his baby Luke says, where he is able to really get creative. With their lovely beach front location, white table linen, candle light,

with a pianist playing, it is a perfect backdrop for brilliant food and service. They have an a la carte menu that changes gradually with new ideas and products, their discovery menu changes up to five times a week, it is a selection of the a la carte menu and some new dishes that they are trying at the time and can vary from five to ten courses. “I want guests to come and eat my menu and say ‘I have never tried this dish anywhere else in the world.’ “ “Local farmers are what shapes my menus and gives the source of inspiration. Some I have met from my team, some from local markets and even some from my children’s birthday parties whilst talking about restaurants to other parents and them telling me about a friend that farms,” Luke says. During the day that I visited, Luke prepared a duck dish. The duck was delivered that morning by one of his local suppliers, a French gentleman named Cyril has his own duck farm in North Bali. It is the story of the duck’s death on the plate! Cyril explained the process after Luke enquired why there was always corn in the ducks throat. The duck is fed corn, a little electric shock to sedate it, and then the knife. “I have used the same corn and with sweet corn and a sambal-corn powder, electric daisies for the shock,

We really gave our all to make the best food possible daily and never felt that prepping was just to be ready for a busy service. Our hard work and love paid off, after 2 years of being there we won our second Michelin star.” • June 2016

FOODIE CONFIDENTIALS

roasted beets, beetroot and ginger essence as the blood. It’s a bit gore but it really excites the diners and maybe gives them the idea that they are eating an animal and not just a piece of meat! “Don’t worry vegetarians are not spared from my great sense of humor as we also do the death of beetroots dish! -- To remind them that vegetables are also living.” The barramundi dish is done with local chorizo: urutan which marries very well with a strong earthy fish like the barramundi, wild local pepper corns which are hand picked at Plaga, and raisins in the salsa, the fern tips are hand picked in the forest of Bedugul. “Bakso Ravioli - so many chefs love it but we can’t put street food on the menu. After a recent trip to Hong Kong and some great dumplings I got to thinking, so the diner always seasons the edge of the dumpling with flavors before they place the whole dumpling into their mouths and BOOM the explosion of warm soup and intense flavor of bakso.” The Frog in My Rice Field is a true story, Luke says. “Where I live, my villa is backing onto a rice field that has coconut trees on my side of the river and banana trees on the other. My sous chefs told me that the frogs come from the rice field and it got me thinking. Puffed Rice cakes -- sundried by Pak Putu’s wife -- banana and virgin coconut oil puree, coconut sambal and the frog legs rubbed and crisp fried with bumbu. Local salads and a dressing with coconut nectar and lime.” Now if a chef talks about his food with this much passion and enthusiasm, who wouldn’t want to sample his food. Time for a trip to Bali, aye?

June 2016 •

“Don’t worry vegetarians are not spared from my great sense of humor as we also do the death of beetroots dish! -- To remind them that vegetables are also living.”

• June 2016

FOODIE CONFIDENTIALS

Richard Suter:

Heart in The Kitchen story by ANDRE ARDITYA illustration by DENNIE RAMON

Richard Suter, General Manager of Sheraton Grand Jakarta, has risen through the ranks, starting as a chef before gradually given more and more responsibility. Even so, Richard still have his heart in the kitchen. RICHARD IS, quite literally, born to cook. His big family owns and runs a historical restaurant in Klingnau, as small town in Switzerland about 40 kilometer northwest of Zurich. At a very young age, he already helped his mother and grandmother running the kitchen of the 600-year-old restaurant called “Engel”. “One of my earliest memories of cooking is when the whole family would work together preparing and utilizing a whole animal throughout a weekend,” said the soft-spoken chef in an interview recently. His farmer uncle would bring an animal to the restaurant on a Friday and slaughter it there; all of the edible parts would be eaten by the large family within three days. “We have a lot of pigs, so we would slaughter pigs. On Friday evening we would eat soup with the intestines; by Sunday, we would have eaten the whole pig, with the bacon hanging for smoking. “The whole relatives would come and there would be a lot of work. As a little kid, I helped peeling the onions. It was a big event; everyone has a job,” said Richard who describes Klingnau as comparable to an Indonesian kampung. His mother is the main cook of the restaurant and she is really big on everything potatoes. “Growing up, I love everything mushroom. I eat toast with mushroom sauce all the time,” he reminisces. His father, equally skillful with his hands, is a mechanic and wanted Richard to follow his footsteps. “But I just wasn’t drawn into it. I tried it, but it just didn’t suit me,” Richard said. He initially wanted to become a baker, but his mother told to become a chef instead so he could learn more things than

just baking. After gaining formal training to be a chef, he initially worked at a number of local restaurants close to home for three years. As a Swiss, he had to do compulsory military service. During his service, he became, of course, the head chef. Wanting to get himself more exposure, Richard decided to move and look for work in Montreux, a resort town on the eastern end of Lake Geneva at the foot of the Alps. Because of Richard’s desire to travel abroad, his mentor suggested him to apply for chef positions at hotels. In 1988, he got a job as a chef at the Hyatt Continental Montreux. In January the next year, he got the chance he had wanted and was flung across the Atlantic to the Cayman Island, working for his first post abroad at the then Hyatt Regency Grand Cayman Hotel. Not only the weather change was a shock as he left Switzerland in January, but the culinary style was also a culture shock. “It was the first time I had been exposed to the Americanstyle cuisine. It was a something very foreign for a traditional European-educated chef like me,” Richard said. He then moved to Hong Kong in 1991 where he spent

next 10 years at four different hotels and became an executive chef. Richard continued moving up the ladder becoming Director of Kitchens at Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit in Bangkok and Director of Food & Beverage at Sheraton Krabi Beach Resort, before moving to Sheraton Laguna Nusa Dua in Bali in 2004. The next year, he moved to Japan where he spent the next eight years before coming to Korea where became the General Manager of Sheraton Incheon in 2012. Since April this year, Richard is the General Manager of Sheraton Grand Jakarta. “I’m really happy to be back here in Indonesia. A lot has changed for the better in 12 years,” said the foodie who loves his food simple but surprising. Even after years at managerial position, Richard said that his love was still for kitchen work and food. “I never left the kitchen,” he stated firmly. Wherever he is, Richard makes a point of exploring the local food and Jakarta would be no different. “I’ve only been here for a while, I can’t wait to explore the plethora of amazing food here. The few that I’ve tried has been amazing; there’s certainly plenty more,” he said with a big smile.

“One of my earliest memories of cooking is when the whole family would work together preparing and utilizing a whole animal throughout a weekend.” • June 2016

FOODIE CONFIDENTIALS

June 2016 â&#x20AC;¢

â&#x20AC;¢ June 2016

FOODIE CONFIDENTIALS

Chef

PATRICK MAURIN story by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE RAMON AND HOTEL BOROBUDUR JAKARTA

The outstanding career of this French chef for the past thirty years brought him back closer to Indonesia than ever. So, what’s the story behind the love affair with this country? Let’s introduce you Patrick Maurin. IT WAS AROUND 2 pm and Bruschetta is about to have its service break before it opens again in the evening. I headed upstairs for my appointment and halfway, a tall and was met with an authoritative figurein with a chef jacket. It was Chef Patrick Maurin. I greeted him right away, “It has been quite some time, Chef, when we last met at Miyama”, I said, referring to the time when he started his tenure here at Hotel Borobudur Jakarta as its executive chef. Despite his imposing stature, Chef Patrick Maurin smiled a lot and was very open about sharing his life experience with me. As a chef who has traveling around the world for the past 30 years, Chef Patrick has an excellent start as well by working at a handful of Michelin-starred restaurants in France and Switzerland. But it was actually not easy for him during his younger days when he was aspiring to become a chef. “My family is traditionally a military family since the time of Napoleon, and I was brought up to become a military man as well”, he said. “So when I was still in the academy and needed extra cash, I started working part-time for a restaurant.” As a hardworking young man, the restaurant started to entrust him more and more with

new tasks albeit it was mostly stewarding job. That’s the point where young Patrick started his fascination with kitchen. “There’s discipline and order in the kitchen and I like it”, he said. Finally, he braced himself to tell his whole family about his decision to become a chef. “Well, I was blacklisted for some time”, he admitted it. However, the young man embarked on the journey by enrolling for culinary school and his venture from one to another Michelin-starred restaurant also began. But it was not until the next ten years that he decided to become fully as a hotel chef and wanting to see the world other than his home country. His first journey was Dubai as junior sous chef at Jebel Ali Hotel and he’s in-charge of the French fine dining restaurant, Mushref. After a two-year spell in Dubai, he went going for Jakarta for the first time in his life. “I was entrusted as an executive chef at The Financial Club. It was the beginning of my love affair with Indonesia”, told the chef. “I was in love with the food and the people.” The monetary crisis came and suddenly “all the bule”, quoting the chef, had to leave the country. It was not until at least 13 years later when he finally set his foot again in

Indonesia. In the meantime, Chef Patrick enjoyed his streak as executive chef in hotels and resorts from China, Morocco, Saudi Arabia, Malaysia, to Russia. He returned for a year working in Surabaya before departing again for Panama to work at Trump Ocean Club International Hotel & Tower for another several years. Finally in 2015, he returns to Jakarta. “It’s back for good with Indonesia alongside my wife, who is from Surabaya”, said Maurin smiling widely. It’s time to settle down and raise the family for the chef. So what is the challenge this time with Hotel Borobodur? “Well, it’s a huge hotel and we are working closely with government and the military. There’s always a last minute request but we have to make do because we are an iconic hotel and every guest’s needs must be fulfilled”, he said. Lastly of course, we need to ask him about his favorite food and for that he exclaimed right away, “Sop buntut! The first time I had one was when I was still at The Financial Club and my sous chef brought me to have one and I have been in love with it ever since”. Now life brings him to work at the kingdom of sop buntut, one of the very best in the whole country.

“I was entrusted as an executive chef at The Financial Club. It was the beginning of my love affair with Indonesia. I was in love with the food and the people.” • June 2016

FOODIE CONFIDENTIALS

“Sop buntut! The first time I had one was when I was still at The Financial Club and my sous chef brought me to have one and I have been in love with it ever since”.

June 2016 •

â&#x20AC;¢ June 2016

THE CLASSICS

NASI AYAM BETUTU PAK SANUR story by RIAN FARISA photographs by RIAN FARISA

Ubud has many hidden nasi ayam joints that you need to try from time to time. However, let’s start with one of the most iconic – Nasi Ayam Betutu Pak Sanur! THE LANDSCAPE OF Ubud is ever-changing. Of what used to be known as a sleepy town where people would seek solitude and meditation; Ubud now have shops, resorts and restaurants spawning at an alarming rate. The town may become more touristy than ever, but Ubud still retains much of its unique charm. One way to prove that is by tracing the traditional values. In general, Balinese surpasses many other cultural communities in Indonesia with the preservation of their centuries-old tradition and that can be seen all over the island. Food-wise, Ubudians keep their wet market alive as well as staying true with the cuisines we always look forward whenever in Bali. While not setting aside the classic choices of Balinese food in Ubud like nasi ayam Kedewatan or the uber-famous babi guling shacks here, there’s one in particular that we would like to give a special appreciation in this issue. Behind the façade of the jammed main street and Starbucks first coffee shop here, an inconspicuous nasi ayam betutu joint owned by Pak Sanur on the narrow Jalan Arjuna is among our finest discoveries. Just a stone’s throw away from the main street, you will find a compound on the right side of street. The place is kept neat and has more than enough seats to bring your whole family for breakfast. Opens from as early as 74

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7 am, Pak Sanur’s three-decade old nasi ayam betutu business usually closes before noon. Pak Sanur himself welcomes his patrons whenever possible and he would mingle among us to share a bit or two about his business. Initially, he opened his business down at the market but decided to move it to his home until present day. Service is unparalleled. The crews are kind and steadfast behind the counter, serving every dine-in order quickly while also preparing takeaway rice for a lady who would carry a whole bunch of it upon her head and sell them around the town. The formula is very simple and that involves only a portion of warm rice and topped with the slowly cooked ayam betutu served alongside some fried chicken innards, vegetables, and a bit of fried noodles. Accompany it with Pak Sanur’s fiery sambal, it’s probably one of the most divine traditional fare you will ever find in Ubud. And that’s for only IDR 20,000/person! Pak Sanur’s ayam betutu is unlike the betutu lalah from Gilimanuk that emphasizes the spiciness only. Ubudian’s ayam betutu boasts the in-depth flavor from the spices and slow-cooking process unlike nowhere else. A visit to Pak Sanur’s restaurant should be a bucket list for your food trip here and comparing his to other joints around would be an adventure of its own.

NASI BETUTU PAK SANUR Jalan Arjuna, Ubud - Bali OPENING HOURS: Daily, 7am – finish (before noon) SPEND: IDR 20,000 / person

Pak Sanur’s ayam betutu is unlike the betutu lalah from Gilimanuk that emphasizes the spiciness only. Ubudian’s ayam betutu boasts the in-depth flavor from the spices and slow-cooking process unlike nowhere else.

• June 2016

SEARCHING FOR STREET FOOD

( CIKWO )

CIKWO Jalan Nusa Indah no. 1, Bandar Lampung – Lampung T: +62 812 7327 6777 OPENING HOURS: Daily, 8.30am – 9pm SPEND: IDR 25,000 – IDR 50,000 / person 76

June 2016 •

story by RIAN FARISA photographs by RIAN FARISA

If you are curious about what Bandar Lampung has for its authentic cuisine, then Cikwo is where to head next. THE FIRST IMPRESSION that I get during my recent visit to Bandar Lampung was that this city or perhaps the whole Lampung province in general, has a really strong cuisine influences coming from Javanese immigrants and Peranakan. While Minang cuisine is apparent in many areas around Indonesia and here as well, but there’s also an interesting influence coming from South Sumatra province or some people would generalize it as Palembang. For instance, it’s the sambal seruit and tempoyak – or the highly addictive yet fiery sambal mixed with fermented durian. Yes, you heard me right if this is your first time. Apparently the fermented durian is a delicacy much-loved in areas with Melayu influences – from down here in Lampung to Palembang, Pontianak in East Kalimantan, and way north to Malaysia. However, tempoyak is not meant to be consumed on its own and is usually combined with sambal or made into paste and also applied to some dishes. With this I decided to find an authentic restaurant that introduces everything about Lampungese cuisine and Cikwo was a very obvious choice. While Lampung is very near to West Java and Jakarta, the language is wholly different and in order to decrypt the whole menu here you will need the patience and the kindness of Cikwo’s excellent and prompt service. The signature dish here is the taboh iwa tapa semalam, or the 24-hour smoked tilapia served

in coconut milk and kluwek broth. While the appearance is very similar to Javanese mangut iwak pe, the broth is equally rich and somehow the Lampungese version has the upper hand thanks to the incredible sambal seruit tempoyak. Another must-have here are anything using the local fish such as the pindang patin (pangasius fish), pindang baung (hemibagrus fish), and luscious blue marlin fish satay in peanut sauce called sate iwa tuhuk. Top your white rice and the accompaniments of vegetables for sambal seruit tempoyak with these delicacies. Now consider yourself immersing with the uniqueness of Lampungese cuisine. • June 2016

ON MY PLATE

Andrian Ishak is known for deconstructing traditional Indonesian food in the most unorthodox way at his restaurant. However, there’s one popular traditional dish the chef will never want to reinvent.

CHEF ANDRIAN’S FOOD AFFAIR story by DIAN ARTHEN

June 2016 •

ANDRIAN ISHAK is the mastermind behind Namaaz Dining, a popular private dining place that serves molecular gastronomy dishes to its patrons. Here’s a fun fact about him: before he ventures out to become a chef, he was a guitarist in a band. He ended his music career as soon as he felt that it wouldn’t take him anywhere. He then decided to pursue another creative passion by becoming a chef. In 2012, his restaurant opened doors to food lovers; Namaaz Dining is now among the pioneers of the molecular gastronomy trend in Indonesia. Andrian’s vision for Namaaz is simple; he wants to give people a new perspective and experience in trying out Indonesian food through a multi-sensory dining experience. While he himself has “creatively presented” almost all popular Indonesian food from pempek (fish cake) to kue cubit (mini pancake) at his place, Andrian says his favorite Indonesian food is the ubiquitous martabak manis (sweet pancake available with various fillings). For Andrian, who believes that cooking should be first and foremost a fun affair, the cooking technique of martabak is very simple but it produces a very interesting dough texture. He confesses that the dish also holds a place so special in his heart that he has no desire in presenting changed or deconstructed martabak dish. “It’s more of a sentimental value that I have whenever I eat martabak,” says Andrian who mentions British celebrity chef Heston Blumenthal as someone who has inspired him greatly to learn molecular cooking. “When I started out as a musician, I learned the skill to play guitar from my neighbor who was very good at it. At that time I had no money to pay him, in exchange, he asked me to bring a martabak every time I came over. “I ended up having a special interest with the sweet snack and wanted to cook it on my own so I didn’t have to buy it in order to get a guitar lesson.”