The Jeju Weekly Issue 79 by The Jeju Weekly

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Publisher : Song Jung Hee Editor-in-Chief : Todd Thacker Assistant Editor : Darryl Coote Designer : Yun Seong Un Address : Rm. 306 Jeju Venture Maru Bldg. 217 Jungang-ro, Jeju City, Korea Phone : +82-64-724-7776, 702-8885 / Fax : +82-64-724-7796

Vol. IV No. 79

FRIDAY, October 26, 2012

Southward stance

A monk gazes at Munseom Island, located off the coast of Seogwipo City. Photo by Douglas MacDonald. For more of his work, turn to pages 6 and 7.

Branksome Hall Asia opens its doors An exclusive look at the newest JGEC school campus

By Darryl Coote

darrylcoote@jejuweekly.com

With only days until Branksome Hall Asia holds its Opening Ceremony on Oct. 29, Principal Glen Radojkovich gave the The Jeju Weekly an exclusive tour of his school’s 82,000 squaremeter campus. As part of the Jeju Free International City Development Center (JDC)’s Jeju Global Education City (JGEC), initiated by the Roh Moo Hyun administration to prevent students going abroad to earn an international education, talks between Toronto, Canada’s prestigious all girls school began two and a half years ago. After much deliberation, signing of MOAs and MOUs, and over a year of construction, the school opened for its first semester this past Oct. 15, welcoming a total of 320 students. Radojkovich said the student breakdown is roughly 70 percent Korean, with 30 percent Korean students who were previously studying

abroad, and about 20 international students. After last year’s North London Collegiate School and Korea International School, Branksome Hall Asia is the third international school to open within the JGEC, located in Daejeong, Seogwipo City. In total the education city is expected to be home to seven schools and a university. “I couldn’t be happier to be honest,” Radojkovich told The Weekly over lunch in Branksome Hall Asia’s cafeteria about the opening of his school as at least a hundred students loudly chattered and tucked into their meals. With any new school he said there are “so many little things that need to be ironed out,” particularly in the beginning, but he has been truly impressed with “how seamlessly the staff and students have come together and how positive everyone has been.” He continued that they were fortunate to have facilities that are “second to none,” but he emphasized that their goal is to ensure that “the quality of

Meet Jeju’s art mediator An interview with gallery owner and film festival organizer Ahn Hye Kyoung By Elizabeth Holbrook contributor@jejuweekly.com

Branksome Hall Asia Principal Glen Radojkovich.

education that goes on within the school is what we are known for.” With its mother school’s history going back over a hundred years, Branksome Hall Asia has the benefit of being “a clean slate, a blank canvas.” This allows for the school to take the Continued on page 2

There are certain people who have the ability to make their presence known as soon as they walk into a room. The energy of art mediator Ahn Hye Kyoung not only accomplishes this but also warms every inch and crevice of her surroundings. Exhibition organizer, Jeju women’s film festival founder, and art gallery owner, Ahn has taken on different roles, serving as a liaison between the art world and Jeju’s inhabitants. Her passion revolves around the hope of sparking discussions about societal issues. “Art doesn’t just imitate something well,” she says. “It conveys what people are thinking. It’s a form of communication.”

Did you always know you wanted to do something art related?

I actually went to Seoul for university Continued on page 10

02 Jeju Now

The Jeju Weekly

FRIDAY, October 26, 2012

INSIDE

Festivals page 4

2012 Jeju Olle Walking Festival

Photography

pages 6-7

A shutterbug’s autumn paradise

Junior Journalists pg 8

Captain Clean’s Green Machine

Community page 11

www.jejuweekly.com

Getting your Korean driver’s license

Branksome Hall Asia’s new campus comes with common educational facilities like a gymnasium and cafeteria, and some not-so-common like a hockey rink, a black box theatre, and two sound recording studios. Photos by Darryl Coote

Continued from page 1 best aspects of the Canadian school and implement it here, Radojkovich said, while introducing new advancements within the foundation of the school’s educational philosophy. During the tour it became apparent that the implementation of cutting-edge technology, and its utilization, was one of the new advancements Radojkovich was talking about. While walking through the massive campus evidence of technology being at the foundation of the school was everywhere. The classrooms are equipped with large touch screen televisions and video cameras for students to review lectures at leisure from their dorms. The design and technology studios have 3D printers and other machines that he said are not available in Korea and had to be purchased from elsewhere. Even the swimming pool has a Jumbotron to review instant replay of heats. This is in line with the schools 3-1 policy which sees that all students have a cell phone, an iPad, and a laptop. As Radojkovich emphasized, the school teaches the importance of these devices, how to use them, and more importantly, how to use

them properly. The school even has its own social networking site to keep parents up to date on events, while also used to instruct the students to properly establish and maintain their digital reputations. Designed by Singaporean architect Phan Pit Li, the campus includes a Wellness Center that houses the cafeteria, the Olympic Aquatic Center, a hockey rink, a huge gymnasium with floor to ceiling windows, two yoga studios, an exercise room, and other recreational facilities. From there we jettisoned via golf cart to the Learning Pods, which are three cylinder shaped buildings that house the elementary, middle, and high school departments. The entire campus is connected through underground tunnels so during bad weather students can go from one area of the school to the other without being exposed to the elements. The only part of the campus not connected to the underground tunnel is the Wellness Center. Within the pods, the three floors are where the students take most of their classes. Running within the center of each pod from ceiling to floor is what Radojkovich called a rain catcher, a large essentially hollow tube that distributes the

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collected rainwater throughout the campus. The rain catcher also works as a focal point within the pods and, especially for the younger students, acts as a communal space where parents can mingle while waiting for their children. Some of the facilities one does not usually see in grade school are Branksome Hall Asia’s two sound studios, one for music, the other for film; a black box theatre, which is essentially an amorphous space; tennis courts; and a screen golf driving range with putting green. Though only having opened for classes three days before The Weekly’s visit, the students seemed already accustomed to their new campus and routine. At the end of the hour and a half tour through the sprawling campus, Radojkovich reiterated that though the facilities are quite impressive, they would be nothing without students. “The exciting thing for me is seeing the campus come to life with kids. It’s been building for quite some time, buildings that we’ve been working in, loving them … once the students have arrived, that is what it’s all about. … Ensuring that the kids are happy and safe.”

FRIDAY, October 26, 2012

The Jeju Weekly

Advertorial 03

Lotte’s Jeju condo resort offers Koreans a local getaway Art Villa units designed by world-renowned architects, built in beautiful Seogwipo

By The Jeju Weekly

www.jejuweekly.com

editor@jejuweekly.com

When it comes to Jeju’s ever-growing resort industry, affluent Koreans tend to be overlooked for rich Chinese consumers. Since The Permanent Residency for Investment in Resort Units Law was passed in February 2010, Chinese nationals have been specifically targeted by resort companies since investments of US$500,000 or more entitles the purchaser to Jeju residency, and all the perks that that title entails. A sweet incentive, to say the least. But Lotte Group, with the creation of Art Villas — a beautiful residency and golf resort overlooking miles of Seogwipo City’s coastline — is hoping to bring the focus back to Koreans. Located on 3.5 million square-meters of land a short drive from Seogwipo City, the Lotte Group began developing the resort in 2005 with an investment of 370 billion won. Opening last March, Art Villas has 60 condos in five different styles, and two different purchasing plans. “Jeju is famous for leisure and for travel so we chose Jeju and we developed [a] center for traveling, golf, leisure, and culture,” said Kim Young Bock, team manager for Lotte Jeju Resort Co. Ltd. This freedom of choice, says Kim Cha Young, a member of the Lotte Inter-

national Lotte Sky Hill Country Club Resort Sales and Marketing Team, is what sets Art Villas apart from other resorts on the island. She said that what is truly unique about their villas is that the five different styles of condominium were designed by worldrenowned architects including Seung H-Sang, Dominique Perrault, Yi Jongho, and Kengo Kuma. And each of the five blocks differ considerably. For instance A Block, which was designed by Seung, contains modern homes with elegant straight lines, offjutting rooms, and as the brochure states, “views all around allow[ing] you to feel the comfort without boundaries between home and nature.” D Block, on the other hand, are oreum (volcanic cone)-inspired buildings that are infused with Japanese aesthetics including a tea area, curved high ceilings, and lattice work that runs throughout the condos. Also, the layout of the resort’s residency area has a rather Western feel, with lines of houses on either side of quiet streets. The condos are spaced in such a way that each building is ensured privacy, while being in close enough proximity to one another to cultivate a sense of community, which is only further fostered by the Community Center that sits at the head of the resort. Within this elegant Community Center, which first greets guests and residents

alike on entering this gated community, is a high-class restaurant, fitness center, club lounge, swimming pool, karaoke room, and screen golf all for the private use of Art Villa members. The privilege that comes with the purchase of a condominium unit is exclusive access to the Lotte Sky Hill Jeju Country Club that has a 36-hole golf course designed by Robert Trent Jones, known for having planned 13 of the world’s top 100 golf courses and voted by Asian Golf Monthly as the best course architect in Asia. Its two courses — both over 7,200 yards — encompass views of Mt. Halla and Mt. Sanbang. From Trent Jones’ Web site, he says, “During construction we found granite and living rock that are unique Jeju elements, and we enjoyed using them to create the artistic and functional character of Sky Hill Jeju Country Club.” This gives the course a genuine Jeju feel that allows you to bask in Jeju’s wonders while driving down the fairway. Not to be content with these amenities, a shopping and leisure district that will include a spa and a premium outlet mall, among other attractions, will begin construction next year. It is set for completion in 2015. When it comes to cost, the price tag runs from 10 billion won to 30 billion won depending on the size of the unit and design for a seven year lease. That is if you wish to have exclusive access to the

condo year round. The second payment option is a timeshare, which sees the house shared by 10 individual owners, also for a seven-year period. In the year they have been up for sale, Kim Cha Young said that out of a total of 40 full accounts on offer, 32 have been sold. Interestingly, she said 10 percent have been sold to families with children in the nearby Jeju Global Education City in Daejeong. For shared units they have a total of 20 and 60 people have decided to enjoy the Art Villa through this more economical route. But the kicker is, at the end of the contract period, no matter what deal you purchase, the money invested in the property is paid back to you in full. Just like key money. Kim said that Lotte Group uses your money over the seven years for other investment plans, and that is how they make a profit. On top of that, Art Villa unit members receive “special treatment,” said Kim Cha Young, which amounts to discounts on Lotte products, and when considering that Lotte sells quite a lot of products, you can count on bundles of savings including at Lotte grocery stores and other Lotte resorts and golf courses. So, if you have a large sum of money sitting around and like to lend it out for the privilege of staying in one of Jeju’s premium resorts, Art Villas may be exactly what you’ve been dreaming of.

Photos courtesy Lotte Jeju Resort Co. Ltd.

04 Festivals

The Jeju Weekly

FRIDAY, October 26, 2012

A look at what’s on offer at the 2012 Jeju Olle Walking Festival From Oct. 31 to Nov. 3, thousands of hikers will come together to walk courses 10 through 13

By Todd Thacker and Steve Oberhauser editor@jejuweekly.com

The following is an assessment of this year’s Jeju Olle Walking Festival courses for 2012. It was written by Steve Oberhauser in 2011. For more information and updates, go to the Jeju Olle Web site (jejuolle.org) and click on the Walking Festival icon. Jeju Olle has online maps of all its courses. Go to the following shortened URLs for course 10 (goo.gl/lSSbI), 11 (goo.gl/5N8Dm), 12 (goo.gl/iVbfN), and 13 (goo.gl/tYIem), respectively. For an index of Steve’s rating system, please consult our Web site (goo.gl/jkxO6).

Course No. 11

Course No. 10

Grade: 40.0 (12th overall)

Grade: 46.0 (4th overall)

Route: Note: this course’s beginning has severely changed. No kilometer markings are given. Moseulpo Port, Hamo Sports Park (start, 0.0 km) - forked road at burial grounds - entrance of Sangmo Village - entrance of Moseulbong - sacred grounds of Jung Maria - entrance of Sinpyeong Village - entrance of Gotjawal - exit of Gotjawal - entrance of Inhyangdong Village - Jeju Culture and Experience Center in Mureung-2-ri (18 km, finish) — Course takes about seven hours to complete

Route: Hwasun Beach (start, 0.0 km) - salt making place (1) - Hangmandae (2) - Sanbang signaling site (2.4) - Yongmeori Seashore - Hamel’s Museum - Seolkeum Sea (2.9) - Sagye Port (3.6) - discovery spot of fossils (5.7) Songaksan kiosk (7) - Songaksan (8.4) - Seodal Oreum (9.3) - memorial stone (10.3) - Altteureu Airfield (11.7) - Hamo Beach (13.1) - Moseulpo Port, Hamo Sports Park (14.8 km, finish) — Course takes about eight hours to complete A B C D E F G H I J

Natural scenery and landscape Conditions of the trail Environmental damage / lack of footprint on the area Bilingual opportunities Crowd control / compared to how many people are using trail Facilities around the area Improvements Park planning / architecture Short-term impression factor Long-term impression factor

5.0 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.0 4.5 5.0 5.0

A B C D E F G H I J

Strengths: Four oreum total. The first two are immense in Sanbangsan and Songaksan. A person could spend a number of hours just at these two places, plus the Yongmeori coast. Leaving Hwasun Beach, there are countless beaches to traverse and trying to get over the sand dunes. This may be the most action-packed course on the whole network of trails. This and more to see.

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Weaknesses: The majority of this course goes over flat farmland. Naturally a bit of a letdown after com ing off of Course No. 10’s high. Although a positive, the Jeju Culture and Experience Center in Mur eung-2-ri is under serious renovation, so when that is complete and fully operational, it will certainly be a strength.

Course No. 12

Course No. 13

Grade: 39.5 (13th overall)

A B C D E F G H I J

4.5 4.0 4.0 3.5 4.0 3.5 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0

Strengths: The one-two punch of Suwolbong and Dangsanbong overlooking Chagwido and the other collection of islands can be considered in the running for Jeju’s best natural beauty spot. Although not, consider the space between both oreum a lush valley of lustral sites in Chagwido’s port and surrounding coastal area. Weaknesses: The 12 or so kilometers before reaching Suwolbong are bland, and is a long, forgettable stretch once past. Overall, a lot of construction happening around this Olle site, a sign of development which does not aid in Olle’s cause.

4.5 4.0 4.0 3.5 3.5 3.5 4.0 4.5 4.0 4.5

Strengths: Gotjawal is a front-runner for this course. Although it is only a few kilometers, every step is worth the journey. Many articles have been written in English about Gotjawal and it enriches an experience to have that background knowledge before entering the magical land for the first time. (Check out the links below.) Also of note, Moseulpo’s area is worthy of a few looks.

Wea knesses: Not much. There are a lot of people using this trail, so the environmental impact is obvious. Only minor flaws, nothing serious.

Route: Jeju Culture and Experience Center in Mureung-2-ri (start, 0.0 km) - Pyeongji Church (2.5) - Dowon Pond (4.1) - Noknambong Port (5.4) Sangyeong Doye (6.4) - Dowon Restaurant (8.2) - Sindo Sea - Sindo Port (9.2) Seogwipo City and Jeju City border (11.1) - Suwolbong (12.6) - Eongalgil (13.3) - Jagunae Port (14.6) - Dangsanbong (15) - Saengyigijeong sea trail (16.1) Jeolbuam (17.5 km, finish) — Course takes about seven hours to complete

Grade: 37.5 (16th overall)

Route: Yongsu Port; Jeolbuam (start, 0.0 km) - cemetery intersection (1.5) restored field path (2.1) - Yongsu Reservoir (3) - Special Forces Brigade Trail (4.7) - old tree trail (6.6) - bracken path (7.4) - Nakcheon Village - Nakcheon stone path - Yongseondalri (11.1) - winding path (11.7) - Jeoji Oreum (12.5) - Jeoji Community Center (16.4 km, finish) — Course takes about seven hours to complete A B C D E F G H I J

3.5 4.0 4.0 3.5 4.0 3.5 3.5 4.0 3.5 4.0

Strengths: There are two reasons to walk this trail; the collection of chairs at Nakcheon Village and Jeoji Oreum. Nakcheon is a bit of an oddity in an area where farms prevail. The passion and craftsmanship are apparent in every piece, and also appear before and after on the trail in many spots to rest at certain selective points. And never to be forgotten is Jeoji Oreum, another top 10 spot on the Olle trails. The view at the top is worth every second to get there. Weaknesses: A whole lot of nothing on the trail besides the two spots mentioned above.

The Jeju Weekly

FRIDAY, October 26, 2012

Opinion 05

My time on Jeju, gone in a New York minute By Jessica Sicard

www.jejuweekly.com

contributor@jejuweekly.com

When reminiscing on my childhood, I recall how slowly time moved, if it moved at all. The mile run in P.E. class took hours, car rides stretched for eternities, and I swear the minute hand reversed whenever I anticipated the 3 p.m. end of school day bell. It seems my childhood was all about learning how to be patient, but long gone are the days when time drags on like when watching grass grow. My experience on Jeju Island has whizzed by in a matter of seconds. Adventure packed with Olle trails, Mt. Halla hikes, restaurant sampling, and festival attending, the diverse opportunities on Jeju Island combined with fantastic friends made my first year in Korea a busy but a beautiful and educational experience. Upon my arrival in September 2011, I knew very little about Korea, Koreans, and kimchi, but after a year of living on this picturesque island in Seogwipo, I’ve found Jeju to be a chill residence that is culturally rich with local folklore, traditional cuisine, and some of the warmest and most welcoming people I’ve met in my life. I am lucky I ended up here. It was my intention to understand the Korean way of life so I could feel more comfortable here, and I hoped that would bury the Asian stereotypes I was fed from movies like “Sixteen Candles.” That was mostly what happened. I still feel like the difficulty and sometimes silliness of the names hold true, but clearly I am coming from the perspective of a native English speaker that has trouble remembering names to begin with. My first year was filled with wonder and frustrations: wonder because this was my first experience in Asia and everything was so foreign and interesting, but frustrating because I am not a fluent speaker of Korean and this gets me into challenging situations sometimes. Whenever I need help with my house, for example, I have to consult my boss to get things fixed because I can’t simply open the yellow pages and speak to a handyman. I have to rely on a translator

Jessica Sicard at the 2011 Jeju Olle Walking Festival, course 9, with Mt. Sanbang in the background. Photo courtesy The author

for simple tasks. Korean management style is also very different than what I’m used to in North America, and many Koreans seem unable to detect sarcasm. After a year of coming to understand some of Korea’s major cultural and lingual differences, I’m able to attempt to understand Korea on a much deeper level and think about answers to questions like how has the group mentality in Korea contributed to their rapid development since the Korean War? How has Western culture changed Korea for the better and/ or for the worse? How are Korean culture and ideals reflected in the Korean language? Will the world know about more than just the conflict between North Korea and South Korea now that “Gangnam Style” is a worldwide sensation? But returning to the topic of the beautiful island I’ve had the honor of calling home for the past year and two months, it’s easy to see why foreigners choose to come here. Jeju Island is

promoted as a Hawaii-like paradise featuring South Korea’s tallest mountain, the freshest seafood, a chill atmosphere, obscure statues galore, and the iconic female divers, the haenyeo. The abundance of jobs makes it easy to move here, and many expats do just that. In fact, expats living and working on Jeju arrive and depart in abundance as if they were walking through a revolving door. I’m astounded that in my short time here I already have seniority over what seems like a large part of Jeju’s non-Korean population, and it happened so quickly. I feel it is unfortunate that most people do not stay longer because I’m finding that I can appreciate and understand Korea a lot more now that I’ve passed that oneyear mark, and I’m completely over culture shock. I made the effort to make friends everywhere I could when I first came here despite the fact that they would probably leave soon. I joined several clubs, attended any and all events in Seogwipo,

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and I made a sweeping effort to learn about other non-Koreans in my town. What I didn’t realize though is it would be hard to say goodbye to all of these people in February and August (when most teaching contracts end), and in just a few short weeks, my two best friends on the island will leave as well. I feel like I’m always saying goodbye to people, and it has made me think about the shelf life of friendships on Jeju. As I get older, I find myself seeking more and more meaningful friendships, people I can connect with on an intellectual level, and bonus points for those who fancy rising early on the weekends for a good hike. With such a transitory expat community though, these deep, meaningful friendships are hard to find and maintain, and it has been the most challenging aspect of Jeju life for me. This seems to be, however, the nature of teaching English in South Korea, and I tip my hat to you lifers out there.

www.jejuweekly.com

06 Photography

The Jeju Weekly

FRIDAY, October 26, 2012

The Jeju Weekly

Photography 07

Jeju photography by Douglas MacDonald (Flickr.com/photos/dmacs_photos)

08 JDC Junior Journalists

The Jeju Weekly

FRIDAY, October 26, 2012

Captain Clean comes to Jeju’s rescue

Left, junior journalists lend a helping hand to clean up Iho Taewoo Beach as part of Captain Clean’s Green Machine. Right, students take notes while interviewing Troy MacLellan. Photos by The Jeju Weekly

By Kim Sohee

contributor@jejuweekly.com

collect trash on the day the junior journalists participated in the beach clean up. “This is half for the community and half for us,” he said. “This isn’t really that difficult. This is more like I’m hanging out with friends and enjoying myself.” Although the idea of the Green Machine took shape in 2009, it wasn’t until this year that MacLellan put it in action. Now, many organizations like the Jeju Sea Grant Program and the World Business Council for Sustainable Development have sponsored this grassroots group of super heroes, donating money for food, promotional items, and buses to encourage more people to join in the effort. However, being an expat, he has encountered difficulties. One of the major problems he faced was when meeting with the local government. He wasn’t able to get officials to return his calls, and

if they did, it was hard to communicate. Other problems included the endless amount of garbage and knowing where to clean. But MacLellan hopes that one day all the people of Jeju — and Korea — will come out on the streets and for one day, clean. “I am not Captain Clean, Captain Clean is just an idea,” MacLellan said. “It’s not about solving the problem, it’s about changing the idea, the culture.” After helping Captain Clean’s Green Machine I understood what efforts were being made to save the environment, things that even Jeju natives aren’t doing. Captain Clean is saving Jeju and we thank him for his work and letting us help him realize this dream. If you wish to join Captain Clean’s Green Machine, contact MacLellan through Facebook (Facebook.com/ CaptainCleanonJeju) or email him at cptclean@hotmail.com.

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On Oct. 14 the JDC-Jeju Weekly Junior Journalists gathered at Iho Taewoo Beach, in Jeju City to participate in a beach clean up. When we arrived we were met by a man in a green superhero costume. His name, he said, was Captain Clean. But who is this so-called masked man? It’s no other than Troy MacLellan, an expat who moved to Jeju roughly six years ago. Before relocating to Korea, MacLellan first learned of Jeju through the Internet and saw images of its beautiful beaches, oreum (volcanic cone), and Mt. Halla. He also read that Jeju Island was pristine and the cleanest place in Asia. This idea was soon dashed to pieces after he arrived here. Hoping to enjoy a beautiful, clean island, he was surprised

to see that there was garbage everywhere he went, including on the beaches, in the forests, and even on the streets. Then he started to think of ways to solve this problem. “What can I do? How can I change their behavior, their attitude?” he said to the group of junior journalists on the beach. These were questions he has been asking himself since his arrival, he said. He then came up with the idea of Captain Clean. He thought that if Jeju citizens saw an expat wearing a superhero costume and picking up trash they might change their minds about littering and ruining the island’s nature. Captain Clean and his volunteers — known as Captain Clean’s Green Machine — usually congregate at beaches and have fun while pitching in to clean up the environment. Christian Yetter, a member of Captain Clean’s Green Machine, was helping to

The JDC-Jeju Weekly Junior Journalists with Troy MacLellan dressed as Captain Clean. Photo by The Jeju Weekly

FRIDAY, October 26, 2012

The Jeju Weekly

Investment 09

www.jejuweekly.com

From legal changes to environmental designations, Jeju readies for investment

By The Jeju Weekly editor@jejuweekly.com

In the past decade Jeju has had one goal: to become a free international city. Embarked upon 10 years ago with the passing of the Free International City Act by the liberal Roh Moo Hyun administration, Jeju Island has taken steps (and some missteps) to fulfilling this dream. When one looks about the island today — let alone when the Act was first passed — to many it is difficult to see what is free, and what is international about Jeju. “Our ultimate goal is to be a free international city,” said Ryu Do-Yeol, assistant director of the Division of Investment Policy for the Free International City Bureau of Jeju, to The Weekly for a previous report. Simply because the Act was passed, does not instantly transform the island. Like Ryu said, it’s the end goal.

This linguistically confusing term is Konglish, Ryu said. It is a combination of free economic zone and international Asian hub. In more common terms, Jeju is working towards becoming a hotspot for tourism and foreign investment. But not long after the passing of the Act “Jeju realized we need more autonomy to manage the free international city,” said Ko Sang-Ho, Deputy Director of the System Improvement Team for the Special Self-Governing Province Division. Again with support from thenPresident Roh, Jeju held an election on July 27, 2005 to effectively become a selfgoverning province. If Jeju’s goal is to become a free international city, Ryu said then “the special self-governing [province status] is the method.” The vote only brought out 36.7 percent of all Jeju residents and the bill received 57 percent of ballots cast in its favor, and a year later Jeju Island became the Jeju Special-Self Governing Province. With the passing of this Act, the central government relinquished much of its regulatory power over the island, and in the future all Seoul will oversee will be military, diplomatic, and legal matters. Everything else will be under Jeju’s jurisdiction.

After this act was enforced in 2006, all hands were on deck. It seemed like it was no holds barred in a legislative regulatory fashion. With Jeju already in possession of a Biosphere Reserve designation in 2002, the island was looking to earn more environmental distinctions to cultivate its image of being an environmental tourism destination. The next year, in June 2007, Jeju was christened a UNESCO World Natural Heritage site. In October 2009, the island accomplished an environmental goal that no other place in the world had yet achieved. By gaining World Geopark designation by the Global Geoparks Network, Jeju became the first area to hold all three environmental distinctions. People here like to call this achievement their “triple crown.” Jeju Island then used this self-proclaimed designation to attract foreign investors, particularly from nouveau riche China, to catapult itself into the New7Wonders of Nature competition, which the entire country threw its weight behind starting in 2010. The New7Wonders of Nature was an international campaign that saw Internet and mobile phone users from all over the world vote for seven locations deemed to be, well, the new 7 Wonders of Nature. Jeju beat out 441 other locations to end up in the final 28. Jeju would snag one of the seven coveted spots on Nov. 12, 2011 (local time), to much fanfare and celebration on the island. These designations, and the building of an eco-tourism infrastructure, were aimed at attracting foreign investment. Since the island is in an ideal location in Northeast Asia, surrounded by millions of people within a two-hour flight of Jeju, the provincial government started to make offers foreign investors couldn’t refuse.

The largest incentive is arguably the island’s 2009 ame ndme nt to its immigration laws. First, contrary to the rest of Korea, Jeju became visa-free for all Chinese tourists. In fact, Jeju has visa waivers with 180 nations. This helped with the ballooning of tourism to Jeju, both domestic and foreign. Last year Jeju greeted 8.7 million tourists, with this year expecting to top 10 million, a first in the island’s history. Secondly, the passing of The Permanent Residency for Investment in Resort Units Law in February 2010 stated that anyone who purchases property exceeding US$500,000 will be eligible for Jeju residency within five years. What comes with this is public school admission, medical insurance, and many other benefits that are attractive to foreign investors. Also on the island are three international schools — Korea International School, North London Collegiate School, and Branksome Hall Asia — within the JGEC which are currently attended by 1,400 students. This change to the island’s immigration has spurred its resort industry with dozens of new golf and condominium complexes popping up that utilize Jeju’s beautiful landscape. These condos, which are beautifully designed to accentuate the natural vistas, most often start at this $500,000 price and go up from there. Why you might ask? Because the reason to buy Jeju is just as much for the residency as it is for the property. And now, when one looks about Jeju, at its development, its preserved nature, its enticing opportunities, though it may still not exactly be a free international city, it’s getting there. And right now Jeju is inviting you to be a part of its growth.

10 My Jeju

The Jeju Weekly

FRIDAY, October 26, 2012

Photos courtesy Ahn Hye Kyoung

Continued from page 1 and majored in mathematics, which is very far from what I’m doing now. When I came back after graduation I got married, but after 10 years, I started to feel really bored with just married life and being a mother.

How were you first introduced to the art world?

One day a friend in my neighborhood registered to take a print class, but she didn’t want to do it alone. She pushed me to go with her and I loved it. I found that art is really awesome. Not because of printmaking, but because of the expression.

So the print class inspired you to make a career out of art?

Yes. I thought a lot of people might be like me: they might not have had a chance to experience art. I started to think about the way I could communicate between artists and people. I decided I wanted to be a mediator.

Why a mediator?

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I felt that art could bring some kind of philosophy or idea of society. Art doesn’t just imitate something well, it conveys what people are thinking. It’s a form of communication.

Why do you think your role as an art mediator is important to Jeju?

Of course these days things have changed a little, but when I first experienced art in Jeju, the art style that I saw in exhibitions was usually really boring. Artists didn’t have their own style, and many thought if they put some sort of political thinking into their work, it wasn’t fine art. But for me, art is an expression of what I think about people and society. As a mediator I try to find something in the exhibition or in the art that let people think about themselves, society or relationships.

What steps did you take in order to become an art mediator?

I looked up the course I could take to do this kind of work. It was a kind of new area of study for Korea, but I found a graduate school, Chung-Ang University in Seoul. I majored in management of art and culture, but focused on making exhibitions in museums.

Were there any specific classes that influenced you?

My university was the first school to

have a feminist class and department. The last year of university I had a chance to take that class. It was really amazing. Even before, when I was in my second year of university, I had the chance to read a book about feminism. I went to university in 1982, and during that period of time Korean people had a lot of social limitations, politically. I thought, “I have to do something. I have to speak out.”

What steps have you taken to speak out?

I started the Women’s Film Festival on the island. For me, my feminist group is the only group that we can speak out. When I choose the films, I try to find a range from very mild to progressive. I’m also trying to find something that conveys women’s art. Feminism is still not familiar in our society, especially in Jeju. People don’t want to criticize something sharply because everyone knows each other. But we need to criticize things otherwise society won’t change. If there is no criticizing there will be no rebuilding. We should shake the society.

You also have your own gallery, Art Space C. What made you decide to open up your own space?

I thought if I had my own space then it would be good to make something whenever I wanted. I had three main objectives for starting the gallery: communication, culture, and creativity.

Do you feel like you’ve accomplished what you’ve wanted to do with your gallery?

I can’t say it like that. I’m doing what I can do as much as I can. What if I make some goal and I achieve it right away? Then I’d be unhappy. Or if I make a goal too high, then I can easily give up. I’m trying not to do that.

And your gallery recently moved locations?

Yes, we moved from Shin Jeju to Jungang-ro last February. I love being in Gu Jeju. The building that I’m using now is my parents’ building. It’s where I grew up from the time I was in second grade in elementary school to the third grade of high school. I have so many memories in that building and the area. I love that.

I understand you’re also involved in a project with the Sonoma County Museum in Santa Rosa?

Yes, the artist Mario Uribe and I have

been working together since I was involved in an exchange project between Santa Rosa and Jeju City. We met each other through that project. During his visits he learned more about Sasam (April 3rd Massacre) and had a show at my gallery. He also wanted to let people in the US know about Sasam since the US was strongly involved, and has been pushing for an exhibition at the Sonoma County Museum. We’ve been talking about it since 2007, and it was finally decided at the end of January 2012.

How do you think Jeju provides creativity and inspiration for artists?

These days a lot of artists come to Jeju for their work. Clearly you can see it. I think they are coming because they think Jeju is a good place for creativity. But I think it’s completely up to the artist and what type of art they love and what they are looking for. Jeju has a lot of issues to talk about: environment, the naval base, Sasam … there are so many things they could work on, but it’s up to their style and interests.

Where do you draw your inspiration from?

I’m trying to read books as much as I can, and I also watch a lot of movies. I talk with artists and friends to try to know

more about society and what the main issues are to talk about. I just keep my eyes and ears open.

Do you have a favorite place in Jeju?

I couldn’t just pick one because I have too many favorite places … but these days I love to walk around the city area, but in the alleyways.

Why do you enjoy doing this?

I don’t know. I just love it. Maybe because I think we are losing that part of the city, and I really want to experience it before it’s lost. Also, while I’m walking around the alleys, I can think about the people living there. What kind of life they are having right now? What kind of history they had before? What kind of life we had before we built apartments? Things like that.

How do you think art has molded you since you took that first printing class?

When I went to the studio, it was a kind of place where I breathed. It was something that I could think in my mind, and I could bring out. I enjoyed how to think about how to express my thoughts into an imaginary area. It made me feel free.

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FRIDAY, October 26, 2012

The Jeju Weekly

Community 11

Book Review

‘Sun-i Samch’on’ revisited for the first time New English edition holds true to the story and conveys a complicated and sad history

By Darryl Coote

darrylcoote@jejuweekly.com

There is a saying I heard long ago that if you want facts read a newspaper, but if you want truth read fiction. This statement came hurtling back to me when reading the latest English translation of Hyun Ki-young’s celebrated short story “Sun-i Samch’on” (ISBN 97889-94006-22-2) that depicts personal trauma and the path to recovery following the Jeju Massacre. (The Jeju Massacre lasted from 1947 to 1954 and resulted in the deaths of an estimated 30,000 Jeju residents.) I previously reviewed the first English translation of this story back in 2010. Titled “Aunt Suni” and translated by Song Jong Do, the novella was confusing, almost unreadable, and ultimately did not do justice to the original story. I did recommend reading it though if for no other reason than to have a personal account of the Jeju Massacre. Four years since the publication of “Aunt Suni” by the publishing house Gak, Asia Publishers has released “Sun-i Samch’on” as part of its bilingual modern Korean literature series and is a book this reviewer highly recommends from a literary standpoint as well as for its ability to act as a window into this complicated and traumatic aspect of the island’s

history and culture. The story begins with the main character and narrator, Sang-su, returning to Jeju, his place of birth, for his grandfather’s memorial ceremony after having lived in Seoul as a corporate executive for eight years with his wife. For Sang-su, Jeju is a place that represents depression and poverty, a place that he has spent his entire life trying to escape. On returning to his village (referred to in the story as West Village, but for those with some history of the massacre will be able to deduce that it is Bukchon village),

Getting a Korean driver’s license Trials and tribulations of a reporter's journey to drive in the Hermit Kingdom By Darryl Coote

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darrylcoote@jejuweekly.com

For me, this past summer was perfect. Beach days and campfire nights. Evenings playing basketball by the ocean in Tapdong, Jeju City, and mornings sipping coffee while writing copy for the paper. It was perfect, except for one thing. Wheels. Four years ago I came here armed with my international driver’s license and within my first two weeks on this rock I purchased a motorcycle. A year later my

Darryl Coote holding his freshly minted South Photo courtesy The author

licence expired. Since then my stead was allowed to rot in the elements. That was until this past summer when I realized what was missing from my life and I set out to get my Korean driver’s license. It was a daunting and confusing task to say the least and I enlisted the help of a Korean friend. Wanting to drive a motorcycle, I had to earn a D2 license, which would allow me to drive stick. To do this, I had to pass a written and two driving tests. The first was the written test. My friend called the DMV to arrange the date and, to my surprise, I was to take the test within the same week. I arrived at the driver’s license office just outside of Shin Jeju, paid my 6,000 won, gave them a passport photo, and then waited for my named to be called. When it was my turn I sat in front of one of the many computers in a large room. The test was offered in several languages. I chose Korean driver's license. English — at least

two things become apparent; one to the reader and the other to the character. The first is that many families in the village are simultaneously holding memorial services, and the second is that his Aunt (Samch’on in Korean) Suni has committed suicide only a few weeks previous. Sang-su is devastated on hearing the news of his aunt’s death, especially since only two-months prior Suni was living with his family in Seoul tending house. Coming in at around 80 pages, the entire story takes place at the home of Sang-su’s eldest uncle with the narrative following the conversation of the male members of the family interposed with flashbacks by Sang-su. The first quarter of the book is dialog between the characters about Aunt Suni’s mental anguish and repeated nervous breakdowns with Sang-su replaying the time she spent at his house in Seoul before a shift in narrative occurs. When Sang-su’s father’s male first cousin flippantly says, “Ms. Sun-i enjoyed an extra lease on life,” dialog lessens and flashbacks of the massacre takeover, filling in the subtext of the conversation. What follows is a beautifully written personal history of the massacre from Sang-su’s point of view, who experienced it when he was seven years old. Sang-su’s flashbacks takeover the narrative, and the conversation then adds more realism to Sang-su’s retelling by splicing in the other

family members’ experiences as well as Aunt Suni’s. To the reader, it feels like this is one of the first times the family has discussed this sensitive topic. Through this, Hyun is highlighting that then, in the late ’70s, oral history was the only way the Jeju Massacre was known by those that had not experience it. Before the democratization of Korea, talk of the Jeju Massacre was forbidden, and to do so was seen as being against the government, and Hyun himself was given no exception from this unwritten rule. When the book of short stories that contained “Sun-i Samch’on” first came out in 1978, Hyun was arrested under the pretence of having attended a recent protest. He was then tortured for three days before being released, and was told to never write about the massacre again. This short story is the first public reference to the Jeju Massacre, and for this reviewer, is enough of a reason to read it. The character of Aunt Suni stands as a metaphor for the citizens of Jeju who survived the massacre and struggled through an oppressive environment that not only wanted to pretend this atrocity never occurred but punished those who publicly mentioned it. Though not entirely accurate, this story breathes truth and gives light to a dark aspect of Jeju’s history arguably better than any newspaper article could.

that is the option I thought I chose. There were 60 multiple-choice questions, most of which were so badly written I often threw up my hands and looked about the room to see if anyone else was as confused as I was. In the end, I finished the test and right away was told that I had passed with 82 out of 100. This didn’t mean much I am afraid. I couldn’t practice driving yet. That privilege would come with passing the first driving test. With a surplus of 10 years of driving experience I am ashamed to admit that I had never driven stick before, so I enrolled in a diving academy, which set me back almost 200,000 won. It was a day course that included the driving test. After a morning of classes and watching videos (all in Korean), I was finally behind the wheel in the afternoon. I drove through a course several times and learned all the basics of the car, which turned out to be quite unnecessary for the test. The first oddity of the test was that no instructor was in the car with me; a computer prompted me, in Korean, with instructions. It told me to turn on the car, to use my left and right blinkers, to put the car in first gear, and so on. If I made a mistake, like if I turned on my left blinker instead of the right, points would be deducted. Then the car told me to drive straight for 50 meters. Before I got that far a siren went off in the car and I had to conduct an emergency stop, then continue on to the finish line. That was it. It was that simple. I passed and was able to drive on the

road with a licensed driver. After one week or so of practicing, I enrolled for my final driving test. It was to be at nine in the morning. When I got to the driving facility on the border of Shin Jeju, I was escorted into a classroom with a dozen or so other people where we were shown the same videos as before, plus some new ones. This was followed by a relatively lengthy class where an instructor went over every aspect of the test. After two hours of lectures I was behind the wheel for my test, but the car was an automatic, not a manual. Confused, I didn’t say anything just incase it was a mistake. There are two possible driving routes to this test. The one I did consisted of two U-turns, a single right-hand turn, and parallel parking within a white box painted on the ground. My instructor seemed impressed with my skills and told me the only thing I did wrong was when at a stoplight I should throw the car into neutral. A cultural difference in driving I’m sure, for I have no idea what the purpose of this action is. I had passed, and now all that was left to do was to drive back to the original driver’s license test building and show the office worker a single piece of paper that had been stamped three times to signify a pass at each exam. They then asked me for another passport size photo, and bam! Laminated. Though the summer is now long gone, I have followed it up with an even better autumn, tilting at windmills seated upon my trusty Rocinante (that’s what I call my motorcycle).

12 Calendar

The Jeju Weekly

FRIDAY, October 26, 2012

Through the lens

Photo courtesy Jeju Special Self-Governing Province

Community Calendar Exhibitions

The Golden Kingdom of the Equator, Indonesia

Until Oct. 28. Jeju National Museum, 11 Samsaseok-ro, Jeju-City. 064-720-8000

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What Men Live By, the exhibition

Jeju Museum of Contemporary Art exhibits its collection to commemorate the 5th anniversary of the museum. Until Oct. 30. Jeju Museum of Contemporary Art, 38 Jeoji 14-gil, Hangyeong-myeon, Jeju City. 064-710-7803

Earth Nest, Kang Sul Saeng’s eco-art exhibition

Until Oct. 30. Jeju Museum of Contemporary Art, 38 Jeoji 14-gil, Hangyeong-myeon, Jeju City. 064-710-7803

Pat, Pat Exhibition

2012 Jeju Leisure Sports Festival

Oct. 6 to Nov. 11. Tapdong square, beaches, and coastal roads in Jeju City. Dance contests, fishing contests, a triathlon, windsurfing, and kiteboarding. 064-728-2753

[K-League] Jeju United vs Busan

Oct. 27. 3 p.m., Jeju World Cup Stadium, 33 Worldcup-ro, Seogwipo City. 064-760-3611

Trail Run Jeju 2012

There will be a 12-km and a 40-km trail runs around the Saseumi Oreum area near Jeongseok Airfield in Pyoseon, Seogwipo City, from 9:30 a.m. on Nov. 4. A 100-km Trans Jeju Stage Race will be held from Nov. 2 to 4. For more information, go to the Trail Run Web site www.trjeju.com or contact organizer ahnrun@gmail.com.

Festivals Jeju Olle Walking Festival

Byun Shi Ji Permanent Exhibition

Oct. 31 to Nov. 1 at routes No. 10 to 13 (Each is about 16-km-long, taking 4 to 6 hours to walk) Programs: Orchestral performances, dance numbers, musicals, Nanta, and more For more information, go to Ollewalking.co.kr or call 064-762-2190.

Performances The Magic and Tigers of Rick Thomas, a magic show

Seogwipo City Announcements Free Astronomy Program

Until Nov. 28. Jeju Museum of Art, 2894-78 1100-ro, Jeju City. 064-710-4300 Gidang Art Museum, 34 Namseong-ro, Seogwipo City. 064-733-1586

Until 2013. March 31. 9:40 a.m., 11 a.m., 2 p.m., Vegasplex. 2635-1, Songdang-ri, Gujwa-eup, Jeju City. 064-783-5454

Nanta

Everyday 5 p.m., 8 p.m., Jeju Media Center, 82 Sinsan-ro, Jeju City. 064-723-8878 Tickets: 50,000 won, VIP seats: 60,000 won (50% discount for Jeju residents with ID card)

Sports and Recreation Free Movies from Jeju Movie Culture Art Center

Jeju Movie Culture Art Center, Ildo 1-dong, Jeju City. 064-756-5757, 064-756-5959 For a complete listing of November’s movie schedule, please go Jmoviecenter.blog.me.

Period: Oct. 1, 2012 to Sept. 30, 2014 (2 years) Hours: 2 p.m. - 8 p.m. Place: Seogwipo Astronomy Science Culture Center Closed every Monday and Tuesday Facilities: 400mm main telescope, auxiliary telescopes (100~200mm), Zeiss planetarium (8-meter-high dome, 40 seats), exhibition room For more information, call 064-739-9701~2

Area: Electricity usage Criteria: A calculation of the monthly average amount used over the last 2 years Incentives: A 5% to 10% reduction for 6 months earns 5,000 green points or a 10,000 won gift certificate for traditional markets Over a 10% reduction for 6 months earns 10,000 green points or a 20,000 won gift certificate for traditional markets You can join this campaign at http://www.cpoint.or.kr/ ※ The reduction of 1kWh of electricity prevents the production of 424g of CO2.

Title: A Tiger with White Eyebrow Date/Time: Oct.30, 7 p.m Performer: Korean Traditional Musical Team [Taru] Place: Dong Heung Art Hall For more information, call 064-760-4684

Guidelines for safe usage of home gas lines

Always make sure the gas valve is closed when you leave the house. Clean the gas stove regularly and ensure the pipe is not leaking. When you use a portable gas stove, do not use a wide pan. This can result in an increase in heat and pressure on the gas bottle, which could lead to an explosion. While cooking on a gas stove, do not leave the kitchen. After returning from a long vacation, ventilate the house before using the gas line.

For more information, call 064-728-2191~3

Free National Cancer Screening

People can have free cancer screenings from the National Health Insurance Corporation Kinds of screening: stomach cancer, breast cancer, uterine cervical cancer, liver cancer, colon cancer Duration: Until Dec. 31 Place: General hospitals or the Jeju Branch of the Korean Association of Health ※ An advance reservation is needed for stomach cancer screening ※ If cancer is detected in a patient in this national project, one is entitled to up to 2 million won for medical expenses

Jeju City Announcements Timeline for the 18th Presidential Election

Preliminary candidate registration: From April 23, 2012 Candidate registration: Nov. 25 - 26, 2012 Creation of a list of voters and absentees: Nov. 21 - 25, 2012 Confirmation of list of absentees: Nov. 26, 2012 Confirmation of list of voters: Dec. 12, 2012 Absentee vote: Dec. 13 - 14, 2012 Election Day: 6 a.m. - 6 p.m., Wednesday, Dec. 19 For more information, call 064-728-2252~7

For more information, call 064-728-4064

2012 Jeju Leisure Sports Grand Festival Event

Date

The National Windsurfing Competition

Nov. 2 to Nov. 4

Samyang Black Sand Beach and other seashores

The 1st National Surfing Competition

Nov. 9 to Nov. 11

Samyang Black Sand Beach and other seashores

Seogwipo Signboard Good Design Contest Period: Oct.11 to Nov. 4 Exhibitors: Shop owners, advertisers, and designers The number of entries: Up to 5 Documents for submission: Application form, photos of the signboard and consent form by shop owners Criteria: Creativity, beauty, eco-friendly material, distinct feature For more information, call 064-760-3022, 760-3027

Carbon Point System for Green Life

Korean Classical Musical on Dong Heung Art Day

11th

For more information, call 064-728-2753

Place