ISSUE 6 Fragrance Analysis Jemma Heathfield Creative Networks Fashion Communication and Promotion FASH10106
Starring Yves Saint Laurent MĂŠlanie Thierry Oscar Wilde Honorine Blanc Ken Russell Imogen Millais-Scott
The Scent Issue TOPMAN.COM
COVER Fig. 1 - Yves Saint Laurent (1961)
2
THIS PAGE Fig. 2 - Belle d’Opium advert (2010)
3
THE SCENT ISSUE
Amodern
SALOMÉ
The daughter fragrance to Yves Saint Laurent’s classic Opium. 4
LEFT PAGE Fig. 3 - Screenshot from the banned video advert (2010)
THIS PAGE Fig. 4 - Behind the scenes of the video advert (2010)
“The fragrance of a modern Salomé, a woman full of ambivalence, fragile and dangerous, with an irresistible beauty and grace.” (Media Centre Kallaway, 2010)
Created by perfumers Alberto Morillas and Honorine Blanc with the creative vision inspired from Italian fashion designer Sefano Pilati, Yves Saint Laurent (YSL)’s 2010 fragrance, Belle d’Opium was to be a, “new youthful, modern take on the grand dame Opium”, which was launched in 1977 (Frolova, 2010).
Imogen Millais-Scott in the film can be seen adopted by French actress Mélanie Thierry in the photograph. The bold, gold necklaces and cuffs, also includes what appears like jewels, conform to the creative concept of elegancy and sophistication. The costume Thierry adorns in the photograph, shot by Mert and Marcus can also be found in the dress of belly dancers from the early 19th century. The light flowing fabrics draped from their bodies reveal large amounts of skin and the excess in statement jewellery conforms to what was commonly seen in the field at this time. The influence is also found in the dance itself in a scene in the Ken Russell film, but has evolved into a more spiritual and ethereal dance in the video for the Belle d’Opium campaign. In contrast, the white dress worn in the video wraps around her middle, showing off her curves and conforms to the idea that she is absorbed by the fragrance and is overcome by it.
The inspiration for the art direction of the advert derives from Oscar Wilde’s 1891 tragedy, Salomé where the “dance of the seven veils” takes place and Salomé demands the head of the Jokanaan (John the Baptist in the Bible) on a silver platter. What can be referred to as one of Wilde’s most controversial pieces of work, “Salome has been a byword for controversy ever since Oscar Wilde’s play was banned for the blasphemous use of biblical characters”, it has been a source of inspiration for many film and theatrical productions (Hickling, 2010). Ken Russell’s 1988 film, Salome’s Last Dance can bee seen to have particular influence on photograph from the Belle d’Opium campaign. The theme of exotic and theatrical headpiece and costume worn by
Previous YSL campaigns, specifically in Opium advertisements feature scarlet and crimson shades along with a woman either
5
THE SCENT ISSUE
THIS PAGE (L-R) Fig. 5 - Opium (1984) Fig. 6 - Opium (1992) Fig. 7 - Opium (2003)
nude or wearing little clothes. Rich purples and blue tones dominate Belle d’Opium’s colour palette with deep hues of purple and blue creating a regal and almost aristocratic atmosphere to the photograph. The bottle can be seen as more of a jewel with the subtle gradient towards the shining gold centre, conforming to the luxurious jewellery in the image and the gold top also conveys a majestic tone.
Fig. 8 - Ken Russell’s 1988 film Fig. 9 - Belly dancer from the early 1900s Fig. 10 - Imogen Millais-Scott as in Salome’s Last Dance
With the fragrance being an, “oriental, floral version of the original Opium for women”, it can be described as, “perfect for elegant, modern women”. While the consumer for the original Opium was the more mature, older woman, Belle d’Opium’s target consumer lies within a younger age category of 25-35. A strong, young and confident working woman who looks for a, “delicate aroma that exudes feminine sensuality” (Amazon, 2015).
OPPOSITE PAGE (top-bottom) Fig. 11 - Screenshot from the banned video advert (2010) Fig. 12 - Kate Moss for W Magazine (2008)
The film for the fragrance presents Thierry as a modern Salomé, who Renaud de Lesquen, Président of YSL Beauté describes as, “a woman who becomes an obsession: moving, incandescent, vertiginous, intoxicating”, emotions they wanted to capture and express in the fragrance. On the dance, Thierry
6
7
THE SCENT ISSUE
“I am your addiction, I am Belle d’Opium” stated that she, “tried to express a power that was docile and feline at once, a total release, close to enchantment”. The viewer is able to see, “the texture of the skin, the breath, the tension” of the fragrance which is portrayed as the “source of addiction” in the, “mythical and fatal” routine choreographed by Akram Khann, MBE. The feature is directed by Romain Gavras, whose, “incisive camera transcends the troubling femininity of the actress, oscillating constantly between childlike fragility and immense determination, control and abandon” (Media Centre Kallaway, 2010). The dramatic, “urgent music” for the film composed by Nitin Sawhney captures the audience with the thumping drum beat of a drum to connect the, “fast changing scenes” (ASA, 2011).
(YSL, 2010)
with the model evoking a, “storm of sensuality” with sultry clothing, “that leave[s] little to the imagination” (W Magazine, 2008). Perfumer for Yves Saint Laurent and co-producer of the fragrance, Horoine Blanc called the perfume a, “symbol of luxury, desire and modernity.” These messages can be found through the extravagant jewellery worn by the modern Salomé, the sultry stare and the crimson red stiletto (Media Centre Kallaway, 2010). The contrast in the title of the fragrance, “Belle”, the French word, which means “beauty”, and opium, which “promises mystery and danger” sparks intrigue and interest from the first glance at the advertisement (Raičević Petrović, 2010). As a brand Yves Saint Laurent’s positions itself, “at the summit of the luxury universe”, and the advert for the Belle d’Opium fragrance affirms these qualities the brand aspires. The launch of a daughter fragrance was greatly anticipated by perfumers and fans of the original fragrance. In the lead up to the launch of the new fragrance, a blog, “What Is Your Opium” was created which shared new content in the days leading up to the launch party and for a few days after the event. This allowed the new, youthful target consumer to explore the new perfume in ways that were unavailable to its mother scent. As the daughter of Opium, the campaign needed to bring a new lease of life to the brand yet still conforms to the core qualities. Whilst there are clearly elements taken from the original fragrance, Belle d’Opium can be seen as a successful extension by Yves Saint Laurent.
In the dance, the actress runs her finger from her inner elbow down the inside of her forearm as if she is being controlled by an unseen presence. The film advert was banned in the UK by the Advertising Standards Agency (ASA) because concerns were raised that, “the woman’s actions stimulated drug use” and was, “irresponsible and offensive”. The voice over of the tagline for the perfume in the advert, “I am your addiction, I am Belle d’Opium” also raised concerns (ASA, 2011). The 2008 Hammam shoot for W Magazine featuring Kate Moss can also be seen as a source of inspiration for the YSL campaign, styled by Alex White and also photographed by Mert and Marcus. The message and qualities behind the fragrance of Belle d’Opium are mirrored in the steamy bathhouse-like location
Belle d’Opium is out now
8
LEFT PAGE Fig. 13 - Screenshot from the banned video advert (2010)
THIS PAGE (top-bottom) Fig. 14 - Screenshot from the banned video advert (2010) Fig. 15 - Screenshot from the banned video advert (2010)
9
REFERENCES
PHOTOGRAPHS
Amazon. (2015). Yves Saint Laurent Belle D’Opium Eau de Parfum - 50 ml. Amazon. Available at: http://www.amazon. co.uk/Yves-Saint-Laurent-DOpium-Parfum/dp/B0041GYD48 (Accessed: 20 March 2015).
Fig. 1 https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/98/4d/ed/9 84ded02ec79dacd6b44030a335b71a7.jpg Fig. 2 http://mediacentre.kallaway.co.uk/pics/akram-khan/hires/ DP_Belle_Opium.jpg
ASA. (2011). Adjudication on YSL Beaute Ltd - Advertising Standards Authority. ASA. Available at: http://asa.org. uk/Rulings/Adjudications/2011/2/YSL-Beaute-Ltd/TF_ ADJ_49670.aspx#.VRCljpOsX3o (Accessed: 23 March 2015).
Fig. 3 http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-E3cpZ_kjTiA/UBbhXyNycyI/ AAAAAAAAAZI/b5pvGmH59cY/s1600/16_Yves_Saint_ Laurent_Belle_D_Opium_Melanie_Thierry.jpg
Frolova, V. (2010). Yves Saint Laurent Belle d’Opium: Perfume Review. Bois de Jasmin. Available at: http://boisdejasmin. com/2010/12/belle-dopium-yves-saint-laurent-perfumereview.html (Accessed: 18 March 2015).
Fig. 4 http://mediacentre.kallaway.co.uk/pics/akram-khan/hires/ MT_BTS_8.jpg
Hickling, A. (2010). Salome. The Guardian. Available: http:// www.theguardian.com/culture/2010/may/13/salome-curveheadlong. (Accessed: 26th March 2015).
Fig. 5, 6, 7 http://coco.colin.se/2012/11/08/perfume-commercials-5-0opium-by-ysl/
Media Centre Kallaway. (2010). Opening Minds. Kallaway. Available at: http://mediacentre.kallaway.co.uk/akram-khanpress9.htm (Accessed: 18 March 2015).
Fig. 8 https://victorianvisualculture.files.wordpress.com/2014/12/6es ig1kxqlski8p0v9bvjd5klve.jpg
Net-A-Porter. (2015). Shop Saint Laurent at NET-A-PORTER. Net-A-Porter. Available at: http://www.net-a-porter.com/ Shop/Designers/Saint_Laurent?pn=1&npp=60&image_ view=product&dScroll=0 (Accessed: 24 March 2015).
Fig. 9 http://favim.com/orig/201104/13/Favim.com-17314.jpg
Raičević Petrović, S. (2010). Yves Saint Laurent Belle d’Opium. Fragrantica. Available: http://www.fragrantica.com/news/ Yves-Saint-Laurent-Belle-d-Opium-1518.html (Accessed: 21 March 2015).
Fig. 10 http://saidprojects.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/oscar-wildessalome-directed-by-ken.html Fig. 11 http://mrsbeebusy.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/ysl_12.html
W Magazine. (2008). Hammam. W Magazine. Available at: http://www.wmagazine.com/fashion/2008/09/kate_moss_ hammam/photos/slide/1 (Accessed: 24 March 2015).
Fig. 12 http://www.wmagazine.com/fashion/2008/09/kate_moss_ hammam/photos/slide/4 Fig. 13 http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-1352718/Adbanned-simulating-drug-use-Yves-Saint-Laurent-Belle-DOpiumperfume.html Fig. 14 http://mrsbeebusy.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/ysl_12.html Fig. 15 http://www.huhmagazine.co.uk/1061/romain-gavras-for-yvessaint-laurent
10
BIBLIOGRAPHY
INSPIRATION
BOOK Buxbaum, G. and Farneti Cera, D. (2011). Icons of Fashion The 20th Century. London: Prestel. Pages: 56-57.
For the design on my magazine layout I looked at two issues of the free Topman magazine. I combined the inspiration from several layouts from Issue 4 and 5 to create my article.
Hennessy, K. (2012). Fashion The Ultimate Book of Costume and Style. London: Dorling Kindersley Limited. Pages: 166-167, 243-245. VIDEO Bellezamaniacos. (2010). Belle d’Opium Yves Saint Laurent. YouTube. Available: https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=y5TUud2M40E. (Accessed 21st March 2015). IboTengutake. (2008). David Lynch - Opium Yves Saint Laurent Perfume ad 1992. YouTube. Available: https://www.youtube. com/watch?v=6dGfcSlOC7Y. (Accessed 21st March 2015). Milarca, C. (2013). Salome’s Last Dance de Oscar Wilde | Ken Russell | 1988. YouTube. Available at: https://www.youtube. com/watch?v=ZMO4Qi4AFhc (Accessed: 21 March 2015). Perfumería Ser Bella. (2013). Yves Saint Laurent, Opium Perfume. YouTube. Available: https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=ovmaK_eCLaM. (Accessed 21st March 2015). WhatIsYourOpium. (2010). A Modern Elixir.mov. YouTube. Available: https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=pomwhmFqW6M. (Accessed 21st March 2015). WhatIsYourOpium. (2010). Perfumer New.mov. YouTube. Available: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjSIHjoVYQU. (Accessed 21st March 2015). WEBSITE Beaulieu, D. (2010). Belle d’Opium: Yves Saint Laurent in the Facebook era. Grain De Musc. Available: http://graindemusc. blogspot.co.uk/2010/06/belle-dopium-yves-saint-laurent-in. html. Last accessed 25th March 2015. Sanders, A. (2009). Yves Saint Laurent Opium ~ fragrance review. Now Smell This. Available: http://www.nstperfume. com/2009/06/22/yves-saint-laurent-opium-fragrancereview/. (Accessed 21st March 2015). Sanders, A. (2010). Yves Saint Laurent Belle d’Opium ~ fragrance review. Now Smell This. Available: http://www. nstperfume.com/2010/11/01/yves-saint-laurent-belledopium-fragrance-review/. Last accessed 21st March 2015. SparkNotes. (2015). Salomé: Plot Overview. SparkNotes. Available: http://www.sparknotes.com/drama/salome/ summary.html. (Accessed 21st March 2015).
Word count: 1052
11