stories / film / music / fashion / mischief / ideas
Changing the world in which we live A rebel within Moving for self appreciation
issue 36 - ÂŁ5
issue 36
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Other people will call me a rebel, but I just feel like I’m living my life and doing what I want to do. Sometimes people call that rebellion, especially when you’re a woman.
-joan jett
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contents Investigations
Features
Stories
In every issue
34 Rebels of comfort Hygge lifestyle and psychology
19 In motion A quaint array of prints and an interview with the artist
16 For when he does not call A poem to read instead of waiting on the phone to ring
9 Subscribe Treat yourself to a year of Oh Comely
41 Connectivity Strength comes in all forms
29 Empowerment of the body An interview with a photographer and aspiring sex-therapist
24 DJ spotlight DJ MnM tells us what “breaking the rules” means to her
12 Reader’s letter 14 Contributers Meet six of the artists who created this issue
46 The body series Natalie Kelton displays the raw beauty of the human form
63 Knowledge is key What is life without the “whys”?
68 Playlist 20 songs that will make you feel empowered
104 Wonder mom jess caskey The story of how Jess Caskey became known as the wonder mom
95 Recipe Red velvet tres leches
52 Free the nipple A gender equality movement 57 Four waves of feminism Take a look at the evolution of feminism 73 Forgotten scientists Overlooked female masterminds 77 Women in nontraditional careers The advantages and disadvantages of a job in a male dominated field
68 Tiffany Nunes Nunes gives us a peak at behind the scenes her new fashion designs “Riot grrl”
109 Fearless weirdo frida kahlo A 1900’s painter embraces weirdness and feminism
78 Moon the rebel flower Naswana Moon- the rebel flower
119 Fighting with peace marwa balkar A Muslim-American activist rebels against stereotypes
113 Third round An Interview with Andrea Perez on leaving her country and starting a new life
127 Game changers Females who are breaking through the game design industry
140 Riot grrl Tiffany Nunes’s new collection 78 The modern woman An interview with Monika Jonevski on her impressive career in the fashion industry
100 Wunderkammer Natalie Williams shows of her curious collection of tattoos 124 Three questions Nontraditional designer Zoe Mccloskey answers three questions 130 Curious things The team’s pick of products for spring 142 What we’re reading Rebellious women in literature
148 Ana Karina Serfaty’s bags A Venezuelan designer 152 Miczjhane Clay & her work Her online store and inspiring young women
96 Women who change the world Joan Clarke
153 Mischief Save yourself the pain and make a temporary tattoo
Cover portrait of NaSwana Moon by Somi Benson-Ja ja. Makeup by NaSwana Moon using Bobbi Brown. Hair by NaSwana Moon. Styling by Jenna Hepp. Pages four, five, and six feature Jenna Hepp’s photography around Europe.
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a rebel is but anyone This issue portrays individuals who exhibit rebellion in all aspects of their life. A rebel is a person who defies all odds, chooses to be themselves no matter the circumstances. Our theme evolves around the notion that the characteristic of a rebel can be defined in any small act. A phrase, an outfit, a lifestyle or an action. Rebellion is demonstrated through all.
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for when he does not call poem Asli Shebe
Smash the receiver and rip out the chord. Wear your favorite lipstick, violet and violent— the one he hated— and listen to Angelou. Don’t cradle the phone between you ear and shoulder and beg his lies to come through. Don’t cut your hands trying to piece it together. Let your voice break and your hands quiver. Let the house burn, twist and come undone. Peel back your mourning veil. If the tears aren’t coming don’t wait. Remember your pendulum hips and the threat of your thighs tangled around his waist the taste of your name how it cuts the teeth and tangles the tongue and sing it like a siren.
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Take to the streets crown in hand and knight yourself, let the parked cars be your pedestal climb the night and recite your declaration of independence. And when you walk let each stride be for Rosa and Harriet Warsan and Zora. Take his silence as invitation to hold your own. Think of your cyanide stare throw yourself into tomorrow and teach yourself how to forget. Yank the telephone wire, don’t let him leave a mess of excuses and laced lies. Break the connection for when he does not call, don’t let him.
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in motion interview & prints taylor matlashewski words jenna hepp
I walk up to Taylor’s apartment, reach up to ring the doorbell and am swiftly welcomed by a series of happy barks. She rushes to open the door and ushers me inside her warm plant-friendly, artfully decorated home. As I look around, I see evidence of her love for prints and graphic design. She hands me a few of her favorite pieces to photograph and we sit down to chat about her work. What do you enjoy about print making? I chose it as a minor because my major is graphic design and it is all computarized. I enjoy the whole working with your hands and getting dirty factor of it because I painted all throughout highschool. Working on the computer all the time can drive me crazy so I like to balance the two out. What inspires the majority of your prints? I favor hands and botanical things. So a lot of my work is hand-related or flower-related or the subject is kind of leafy within it. Or sometimes I’ll have these random sparks of I’LL DO THIS! Like the teeth one. I do a lot of value stuff but that one was stepping out of comfort zone and doing flat layered work.
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What are some terms in print making that most people don’t know? So many exist. Proofing is when you addition. When you’re making your proofs, you make the proofs for each color individually. Then addition is your one out of eight and your artist’s proof is what the artist keeps. State proof is basically when you are proofing your color one. Etching is just using acid and gum arabic to make sure the oil is in the stone. Out of the prints you gave me to photograph which is your favorite and why? I really like the big one I gave you. “Motion” is what I called it. They are all mono prints and I have three of them that are each completely different. I drew on a clear piece of plastic and burned it onto the screen then did some weird untraditional things on the screen like drawing with my hands and with spoons, smearing the colors and dabbing it. It was really fun to do and I also just really like how big it is.
What makes your prints unique and how do you make them your own? I try not to do anything that is very trendy because I don’t want people to say “Oh she’s doing this because it’s trendy.” I try to stay away from that or at least to be inpired by that and then make it my own or in my own way which can be very different at times. Through lithography I was using a lot of watercolor techniques but while mixing it with a sketch style. Every print is different. What is your preffered method of printmaking? Right now I’m in screen printing and it’s fun, not as difficult to do but you can’t get much value with it. I really like lithography because you can get value with it. It’s a very complex and long process to grind down the stone, etch and draw your image in it. Make sure your’e not touching it with your hands because of the oil on them! But the end result you get out of it is very special and unique. When it comes to flatter work, I really like the screen printing method.
dj spotlight words sami bailey photography michelle mason
When talking with Michelle Mason or “DJ MnM, I asked her to describe herself in one sentence. She described herself as “the most energetic, chill, fun loving, intro extrovert that you’ll ever meet” which is truly a unique answer that you don’t hear everyday, but its not everyday you hear about a female dj either. Michelle, 24, who recently graduated from the Savannah College of Art and Design with a major in Motion Media and a minor in Photography said that djing has always been her “side thing” but nowadays she is trying to make it her “main thing” since everyone loves what she brings to the table. Since this month’s issue is focused on “breaking the rules” I wanted to ask MnM what breaking the rules means to her. To her, breaking the rules means being confident in yourself to not follow the masses despite what everyone else might say, stepping out of your comfort zone and knowing that will pay off in the end. Originally from Atlanta, Georgia, she has been in Savannah, Georgia for six years which she loves. Michelle applied to graduate schools not too long ago and plans pursuing a Masters of Science in Nutrition at the Berkley or Colorado School of Public Health. When asked why she 24
wanted to pursue a degree in Nutrition she simply said “I love food!”. Initially wanting to pursue a Master’s Degree in Computer Science, she had an epiphany one day while talking to a friend at church that becoming a Nutritionist would be the right thing for her to do and by incorporating that with djing she could make workout mixes. Michelle began djing five years ago when one of her friends from home introduced her to a djing program. Sophomore year of college she asked one of her friends if she could throw a house party and everyone loved it. Since the school she attended was quite diverse, she played everything, ranging from West to East Coast music. From that moment on she kept at it by doing more house parties and djing for different colleges and their events. What I thought was so interesting about DJ MnM is that she hasn’t done any advertising to promote her djing business. Most of her djing gigs come from word of mouth or by people referring her. To take it a step further, last year she invested in some equipment. Mnm describes her music style as “energetic”, she enjoys any
music that makes people want to dance. Her favorite genres of music include Rap, Hip Hop, House, Reggae, Soca, Funk, Old School Hip Hop, Electronic and Dubstep (if its soulful). Even though she gets strange looks, she’s proud to say that her favorite artist is Kanye West. “Just knowing where he’s come from and seeing where he is now. . . its hard for him because the whole world is looking at him and putting their opinions on him, but I love how he’s able to still be himself and venture out into new fields besides just music. “says MnM. In the years ahead Dj MnM sees music becoming watered down unless artists such as Kanye, Kendrick, or J. Cole continue to keep a story behind it. In her eyes, people are more focused on putting out mixtapes rather than telling a story or creating dope visuals. When asked what was the biggest challenge she faced when djing, she stated that the microphone was the hardest part for her. She has a soft voice that is hard to project which is something she says that she is constantly trying to improve on. To find out which music she should play for
a gig she usually just “reads the crowd” and if she can’t do that she plays what’s popular on the radio. “If it’s a smaller crowd or everyone is already super drunk, I play what I want to hear” she says. When asked if she was doing anything new, Dj MnM said she is currently working on rebuilding her social media (since her Soundcloud was terminated for copyright infringement), adding to her Mixcloud account, building her website, and coming up with new themes for mixes. Also, since Twerking is popular at the moment, she has decided to capitalize off the trend and created what she calls “Twerk Trap” mixes which is Hip Hop music that is sped up for people who like to dance fast. At the end of the day Dj Mnm says she just wants to be successful, protected, and happy. “I want to be the one to plan family gatherings, I don’t want my family to worry about money” says Mnm. “Really I just want to travel and enjoy life and to continue to be protected amongst all of it. I want to make the future generation healthier and more aware so we can continue to grow as a culture.”
empowerment of the body interview natalie kelton words savannah weghorst photography alex hale egan model mary jo parsley
all the time that they feel sexy and liberated whenever I shoot them. I hold my work to a very high level of professionalism and I can talk about how I feel about my own work. I work very hard and I don’t feel narcissistic for saying that.” A scribbled on daily planner. An art gallery ticket stub. And a vintage porno DVD. These are the three items that Natalie Kelton pulls out of her purse. Natalie is a senior at the Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD) majoring in photography and minoring in printmaking. She specializes in photographing the human body. Every scar, bump, dip, roll, curve, bone, and freckle peaks her interest and she showcases these curiosities that make each human body unique. How would you describe your style of photography? “Honest, personal, and simply a self-portrait of how I feel and think about people. My photography shows my personal perspective and luckily models support that and want to work with me. I want to say my work is empowering. I have my models tell me
Where do you pull your inspiration from? When Natalie first pulled out a porno DVD from her purse, it was unexpected. She told me that she used porn as inspiration for her work. “My favorite pornos are Emmanuelle and Emmanuelle 2. They are French pornos from the novel in the 50’s. You don’t see any sex scenes but the movie eludes to it and shows sensuality”. When it comes to porn, Natalie is drawn more to vintage porn that is more story and character based and artistic. In today’s age, the audience of porn has changed. They want everything fast, short, to see everything and to see everything up close. The roles of men and women in porn have also changed because the vintage porn was more focused on the man while today it is more focused on the woman getting off. Natalie did say that she supports anyone in the porn industry who 29
wants to use and distribute their bodies that way, but is firmly against exploitation. Natalie told me that she really wants to go back to school after she graduates from SCAD to become a sex therapist. She has done countless research papers on anything and everything to do with erotica. She honestly believes that everyone deserves to feel sexy and explore their sexuality. When it comes to sex, Natalie has found that a lot of negativity towards women actually comes from women. Women can be harsh and judgmental. They are told not to talk about sex and to just accept what men want from them. Although, Natalie points out that these stigmas are changing. What made you fall in love with photography? Natalie told me that she started in high school by taking photos of her friends that were anorexic and bulimic to show them that they were beautiful. She started out with a bed sheet and a $3 lamp from the local Goodwill and “that shit still works!�. Natalie is all about cheap, claiming that you can make beautiful things out of anything with determination. After seeing her friends’ reactions and seeing how it empowered them, she realized that she wanted to shoot images that would promote body positivity, not just for plus sizes but also for those who are underweight, men and women. Natalie has found that men are so much harder
to convince that they are handsome because they are so self-conscious. Women are used to getting complements on their looks but that doesn’t happen near as often for men. Their masculinity is mainly just judged “by the size of their junk”. Natalie is all about body love and wants others to love their bodies. What do you look for when scouting models? Natalie doesn’t really look for anything in particular. “I am pretty shameless and I will just go up to someone in a pizza shop and they will model for me”. Trying to get a wide variety of ages, backgrounds, colors, and genders, she uses herself, Tinder, and even Grindr to find people. “Im always honest with what I want. I tell them that my name is Natalie, I’m a photographer, and that I think they are a very interesting person and would like to shoot them. I show them my website and work and I have only ever had one person turn me down and that was a week ago”. Loving your own body is difficult, especially when you do not think that others accept your body. According to Natalie, a photograph is a document and any document makes someone important. You are essentially making them feel important. You are making them an icon. Do you ever use Photoshop? Natalie only uses editing software to edit the lighting and clean
acne off of skin. She says that if it were her, she would want acne removed but she never retouches scars, dimples, or stray hairs. If she needs to fix something, she will do it right then before she takes the photo. “Why would I change someone’s body? Who is to say what the standard of beauty is?” In our generation, Body Positivity has been a growing trend. Where do you see this trend going? Is it just that, “a trend”? Or is it here to last? Natalie does not see it as a trend but as something that will continue to grow. To her, models like Ashley Graham are not plus sized. Ashley Graham is a size 14 and the average American woman is a size 14-16. So Ashley Graham is not plus size, she is average. Plussized models that inspires Natalie are Tess Holliday (size 22) and male model Zach Miko. The female plus size industry has much more support than the male plus size industry. The male plus size industry is basically non-existent. Male plus size is determined by their body shape rather than their size since males can be the same size but their muscles make a difference.
Did you ever receive backlash from your family, professors, or friends over the type of photography you do? “Of course, all the time. SCAD does not support my work. I cannot put my work on display in the photography building because of the genitals in my photos. Why are nudes not professional? Painting is different. In painting, nudes are worshiped but if it is a photo then it instantly becomes porn in someone’s mind”. Most of Natalie’s professors are supportive but she did have one professor who was not okay with the male nudes but was fine with the female nudes. “That really made me angry”. As far as her family, Natalie was not really sure how her dad felt about her work because he passed away two years ago. Natalie did say that he always supported her as long as she was doing what she loved and was being successful at it. Her mom always says “Why can’t you just take pictures of flowers?”. She is not a fan of Natalie’s work because she is very conservative. “My mom will come see my work but she will not look at the work with genitals. However, she can’t really say much about it because I have consistently been on the Dean’s list and my work has been showcased in galleries”.
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four waves of femininism words karla colon illustrations maria acha-kutscher
So, let’s start with what feminism is, in the dictionary is describe as the advocacy of women’s rights on the basis of the equality of the sexes. Feminism can be misinterpreted by other people since some women had given a bad name to it but what a feminist look is for equality. This can range of political movements, ideologies and social movements that share the same goal: women rights. Feminist movements are mostly for campaign for the right to vote, hold a public office, work, equal pay, receive education, equality in marriage rights, own a property, to enter contracts, maternity leave, among others. Feminist also promote body positively, autonomy and integrity. They also protect girls and women from rape, sexual harassment and domestic violence. Feminism is a necessity for this times since women get belittle too often by men that don’t believe in equality and rights for everyone. Now that you know a little about feminism what is the four wave feminism. This is not the first movement of feminism. The 1st Wave Feminism refers to a period of feminist activity during the 19th and 20th century in the United States, United Kingdom, Netherlands and Canada. It was focused more on the inequalities. Women realize that they should gain political power, including the right to vote so they can bring the change that it was needed. A lot of them fought for their right to vote and go it. After that the seed was planted, women had the same potential as men to contribute. The second wave was during 1960s to 1980s. It started in the United States and then spread through the Western world and more. It 41
became worldwide and it was strong in Europe and parts of Asia. In different countries it started in different times but it had the same goal. This time was focused on the workplace, reproductive rights, sexuality and family. After all, it was perceived that women already had it all but in reality there was one thing missing and it was the failure of ratification of the Equal Rights Amendment, which has not been passed yet. Some women that were part of this movement were already affiliated with the Black Civil Rights Movement, Gay and Lesbians Movement, Chicano Rights Movement, Anti Vietnam Movement, and American Civil Rights Movement, among others that were already other groups fighting for equality.
of mothers from the 1st and 2nd wave but this time they were wearing lip-gloss, high heels and had a very exposed cleavage. As someone expressed “it’s possible to have a push-up bra and a brain at the same time.”. The “grrls” of the 3rd wave stepped on the stage as strong and powered women, eschewing victimization and defining feminine beauty for themselves as subjects, not as objects of sexist patriarchy. Grrlfeminism tends to help in global, multi-cultural in simple answers of identity, gender and sexuality. Other differences that help people understand is ethnicity, class and sexual orientation, among others that are recognized and celebrated as situational, provisional and dynamic. The third wave feminism was breaking boundaries.
The third wave started in the early 1990s and this was more post-colonial and post-modern thinking. This movement was an “individual movement” with the purpose of redefining what is to be a feminist. It partially arouses with a response to the failures of the second wave feminism and the backlash against other movements created around the 1960s to the 1980s. It also wanted to show the different faces and identities of diverse women, recognizing that all women are “many colors, ethnicities, nationalities, religions and cultural backgrounds”. The readoption of the meaning of feminism started with the daughters
Lastly, the fourth wave of feminism is still a captivating silhouette. This wave was a argued existence in 2005 but this one was combining justice with religious spirituality, however the spiritualy part is not present in most of the definitions of this wave which tends of focusing more on technological components. Is said that the fourth wave started in 2008 and was mostly inspired by Take Our Daughters to Work Days. It incorporates more presence in social media, pursuit of reproductive justice, transgender support, blogs, twitter campaings, male feminism, sex work acceptance, plus-size fashion support
and the term “Feministing” which purpose is “a way to get through the mommy filter” and make feminism mora accessible to others and give young feminists a presence via social media. Fourth wave feminism is often associated with online and social media presence. Usually is more present in Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Youtube, Tumblr and others, that help young generations of feminist to discuss, help, support of gender equality and social justice. Now, thanks to this wave, it has impacted how companies market to women so they are not called-out for sexism. Something really important about this wave is that it has been associated with the increased focus on intersectionality that is the idea that multiple identities intersect to create a whole that is different from the component identities, that included: gender, race, social class, ethnicity, nationality, sexual orientation, religion, age, mental disability and illness, physical disability and illness, as well as other forms of identity. Is also associated with the repudiation of trans-exclusionary radical feminism and has a focus on solidarity with other social justice movements. It doesn’t matter how many waves we need to do to get where we want, but something sure is that we are getting things done and women thank you. It has to be said that some are radical but at the end women are just looking for equality. Men can help too, to create a world with the same rights they have. This is not a call saying that a woman is better than a man, but that we are equal and whatever he can do a woman can do it too.
knowledge is key what is life without all the “why’s”?
words alex hepp portraits brian hepp
“Why?” the little boy asked, for what must have seemed like the thousandth time. “It just does Honey,” his mother replied exasperatedly “I don’t know.” “But why!” he insisted, four-year old eyes brimming with curiosity, still squinting at the bizarre black rock in his hand. “Why does it stick to the other rocks, mom?” Shaking her head and laughing, she pulled him along, placating him with promises to aid in solving the mystery when they got home. This little boy never stopped asking why. In elementary school, it was “why is the Earth round?” and “why do I have to capitalize that?” In middle school, “why does that equation
work?” and in high school, “why does that protein fold into that shape?” The questions changed, they only grew deeper and more complex as the boy grew into a young man, but the curiosity was never exhausted. As often as not, he would receive a vague response, or a simple “you wouldn’t understand,” prompting a frustrated countenance and a brief silence, but still the desire to understand burned within. Knowing “what” was not enough for the boy, he had to know how, he had to know why. Naturally he developed an interest in science. More than an interest. The boy’s ardor for science was nearly unmatched by his peers, enrolling in every class he possibly
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could, devouring every scrap of insight, every theory, every principle. He soon focused his passion in biomedicine, pushing beyond the confines of a textbook and engaging in clinical research. Through the years, the little boy who asked “Why?” lived on – lives on. That boy is me. From the very moment that I began to conceptualize the world, every fragment of information has been precious to me. Each question answered multiplies into a dozen more, each solution found brings forth another problem to ponder. With this dedication to understanding the world that I live in, I aspire to alleviate suffering, to improve humanity; to make a difference.
“Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important thing is not to stop questioning.� -Albert Einstein
moon the rebel flower
photography somi benson-jaja model naswana moon styling jenna hepp makeup naswana moon
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“Who I am is entirely up to me.”
wunderkammer photography alex hale egan model natalie williams words savannah weghorst interview natalie williams
Which tattoo was your first? The smiley face on my ankle. It started out as a stick-n-poke I did in my freshman dorm room. It didn’t really work and looked super janky so I got an actual tattoo artist to go over it. 66
What is the connection you have to your tattoos? To be honest, they just make me happy. They make me feel really pleased with how I look. Also my grasp on reality is like tenuous at best and they help me to look myself and be like “aye bitch, das you. You're a real person. You really here”. Plus its like just carrying my lil arts around with me. They just keep me company like they're my friends. Other people can see them but they don't know them like I do. Like me & my tattoos, we got inside jokes. Which ones have stories behind them and what are those stories? I mean I could say stuff about all of them but only a couple really have stories, I guess. The house on rib is the house I grew up in that my family still lives in. The succulent plant on my arm is Harold. He was given to me by a coworker right before I left for college. So I went out that night after I got off work and ended up accidentally leaving him at a bar. Then a couple days later I went back and I was like “heyyyy. y'all didnt happen to find a succulent plant named Harold in here did you?” They were like “ya we were wondering when you were gonna come back for him...” Anyway, so I got a portrait of him because he's my child and I love him... even though I may or may not have lost him for a hot sec. What goes into your decision making when thinking about whether or not to get your tattoo? I tend to obsess over what I want for a while. Like I don't really plan it much but I'm always thinking about what I want and where in the back of my mind. Then I just go when I start feeling all super glum and such and then I feel better again.
Do you have a favorite? Not really. I go back and forth between which ones I'm most into. Usually when I get a new one I'm like “dang this is the best thing in the world� and then I go back to switching between which one is my favorite. The hands on my thigh is currently my favorite because it is originally my artwork. Do you receive backlash from your family/ friends/employers/strangers about your tattoos? Oh ya for sure. My parents hate them. Before I had any I remember my father saying that they were "the mark of an unsavory person". I hid them for a little over a year but they found out at airport security because the TSA dude made me take off my cardigan so my dad saw. Sometimes I catch him looking at me with just sheer judgment, but I really don't care anymore. Sometimes I get self-conscious and worried about how the tattoos might disappoint my parents but then I remember that they make me happy and that they make me feel better about my body image so who cares. They make me feel real. Like my own person. As for everyone else, the reactions I get are positive for the most part. I'm sure some people judge me for them or don't like them, but thats kind of a given. Everyone likes (or dislikes) what they like so it really wouldn't make sense to think that everyone would like them. Like I've seen some tattoos out there that I didn't particularly like, but if they person they are on really likes them then so do I because they're happy and I'm happy for them. So ya whether or not someone likes my tattoo doesn't really matter one way or the other to me because I like them.
wonder mom: jess caskey words francoise urdaneta photography jess caskey
A great example of a powerful woman would be Jess Caskey. She is a wonder woman, not only she is a mother of two but also a wife and a business owner. Since she was a little girl, she knew the world of art and design was her passion but she also knew she wanted to be a mom and a wife. How does she do it? What’s her secret? And for you surprise, there are no secrets or superpowers! Jess Caskey said that when you do something that you are really passionate about, it will flow naturally and that’s how she knew she needed to be an artist and a mother. Caskey also explains that being a “wonder woman” is not easy but it is very rewarding. She wakes up very early in the mornings so she can be with her kids and then go to work where she is also the lead designer. Also, this fashionable mom, admits that her role models are other moms. She explains that being a mother and having a 70
job at the same time is tough so any mother who is trying to survive with her babies, be happy and work is her biggest inspiration. Casey also talks about how she keeps her life together. Some of her advices are: weekends are reserved for family! Also, try to stay as comfy as possible during the day. Her favorite outfit would be a pair of skinny jeans and a pair of new balance! Also, another advice would be to read in order to relax. To all the moms out there: it’s okay! And it is going to be alright. No one has it all together and it will be okay. Being a mom is tough and it is even tougher if you work. But what’s the good news? You can do it! Everything is possible if you believe in yourself and work hard. Stay true to yourself and trust that everything happens for a reason.
fearless weirdo: frida kahlo words karla colon photography gisele freund
Frida Kahlo: Mexican painter that was married to the muralist Diego Rivera. That’s what people know her for, or maybe by the women with all the flowers in her head. Nobody knows her as the great painter and feminist of the 20th century, what she really was. Frida’s born name was Magdalena Carmen Frida Kahlo y Calderon and then change to Frida Kahlo de Rivera. She was born on July 6, 1907 but she then claimed that she was born in 1910 so people can associate her with the Mexican Revolution. She had a rough life growing up. She contracted polio at the age of 6, she also suffered from spina bifida and the accident that change her life forever, the car crashed that was her curse that might have been a blessing in distress. Her accident confined her to a bed which later make her think more of a painting career fulltime instead of studying medicine like she wanted when she was little. Kahlo once said “I paint myself because I am often alone and I am the subject I know best”. Her paintings are absolute best and they always tell her story. She had a aesthetic that it was only known for her. Some of
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her paintings were like nightmares but that was her life. It was an endless nightmare, like she one said “I never painted dreams. I painted my own reality”. Getting married to Diego she knew what she was getting into. She was his third marriage and she knew he wasn’t faithful but she was in love. After a rocky start in her marriage Frida started going out with men and women, even being married. She then found out about Diego and her sister affair and divorced Diego to get back with him in less than a year. She stayed with him but she didn’t want to have sex or anything with him, just being married. So, what makes this woman so great even though she had a sad life. People still don’t understand that she was a feminist and strong woman, an example to follow. Others see her as weak for staying with someone like Diego, but she offered so much more to women and art.
She didn’t recognize herself as a bisexual but as a free woman able to love and care for everyone. Kahlo defied gender stereotypes. She was the one who drank tequila with all the boys and used to be with women that Diego were before. Even though her life was a nightmare, like her paintings portray, she used to paint real women and real experiences. Beauty was deviated from the traditional definition of female beauty. Everything was honest and raw to the eye of the ones that see her paintings. Frida never play the victim, after all the tragedies in her life she transformed her pain to painting. Her passion was creating beautiful drawings showing her pain in life. Also, Frida embraced her weirdness. She was always working with other artist so eventually she broke every rule in art and life. Whatever she did, it was coming from her heart. Though she was aware of her uniqueness, she encourages others to embrace their inner weirdness, like she said “I used to think I was the strangest person in the world but then I thought there are so many people in the world, there must be someone just like me who feels bizarre and flawed in the same ways I do. I would imagine her, and imagine that she must be out there thinking of me, too. Well, I hope that if you are out there and read this and know that, yes, it’s true I’m here, and I’m just as strange as you.”. So, be yourself and bring a little of weirdness in whatever you do!
fighting with peace words savannah weghorst photography marwa balkar illustrations karina perez
Marwa Balkar is a 22-year-old Muslim American who was born and raised on American soil. In the midst of an era of terror threats, uncertainty, and fear, Marwa spoke up loudly about what it means to be a Muslim in a country that associates a hijab with the word terrorist. Marwa first when viral back in 2015 after she posted an Instagram photo as a response to Donald Trump’s comments on Muslims, mosques, and forcing individuals of Muslim faith to wear identification badges. Her post showed a picture of herself wearing a peace symbol stating in her comment that she would wear a peace symbol as her Muslim ID because it represents “my #Islam” (Balkar, 2015). Her post went viral in a matter of hours with people of all backgrounds reaching out to her, thanking her for her courage and for standing up for Muslims. She has received messages from Muslim children who told her about the racism and discrimination that they faced in school. She also began receiving
many threats including ones such as “you Muslim bitch”, “you Muslim c-nt”, individuals telling her that her family should be the first of those to be deported, and even ones that told her that they would do unspeakable things to her if they ever found her alone in an alleyway (Balkar, 2016). Marwa Balkar has become a spokesperson against discrimination, especially of those of the Muslim faith. She stands up for her faith and stands against the discrimination of individuals by creating videos and news articles online that outline the facts of current events and how it affects Muslim-Americans. Her personal 79
“What Donald Trump does not realize is that Muslims in America are just as fearful of terrorists as he is. After all, we are all American.”Marwa Balkar
experience and knowledge has made her opinion on these matters particularly persuasive. She states herself that she is not easily identified as a Muslim by simply looking at her, however, she stated that ever since Trump’s statements on banning Muslims and promoting Islamophobia, that she has personally began experiencing a heightened amount of discrimination. Her friends at work even began refusing to speak to her. In today’s America, Marwa tells her audience that her Muslim friends are scared to leave their homes, that Muslim parents are begging their children to take off their hijabs, and that people often associate her and her Muslim friends as ISIS. She goes on to say that “what Donald Trump does not realize is that Muslims in America are just as fearful of terrorists as he is. After all, we are all American” (Balkar, 2016).
Marwa tells her viewers that despite what mass media presents, 95% of ISIS victims are in fact Muslims, yet Muslim-Americans feel oppressed on American soil by those who ignorantly believe that these extremists (who Marwa says misrepresent Islamic faith) are representative of all 1.6 billion Muslims. Instead of promoting an America that is a melting pot of all people, the home of the free, and the land of opportunity, American’s chose fear and discrimination against the things that it doesn’t understand. Balkar loudly speaks up in peace to show people everywhere that Islam is meant to be a peaceful religion. Her goal is to show the world that people of Muslim faith are nothing to fear. They are people, just like everyone else, “who go to the mall, get parking tickets, and play video games, and are serving in America’s military” (Balkar, 2016). She repeatedly advocates for peaceful protest in light of recent political movements and has continually spoken up against social wrongdoing. In this era of political unrest, change, and uncertainty, individuals such as Marwa who are fighting for peace and rebelling against social injustices will be the people who lead this country into an era of peace, tolerance, and unity.
three questions interview zoe mccloskey words karla colon photography veronica ibrahim
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Zoe is a fierce fashion designer that defies traditional fashion while creating her own style. She once made a piece of clothing with just one seam.
designs, be it with fabrics or finishes or textures. I also like to scandalize those around me with provocative designs, making my designs for the bold.
What makes you passionate about your style and designs? What makes me passionate about my designs is finding new ways to make the wearer feel beautiful, confident, and ready to take on the world. I always take into consideration what the wearer will feel or take from a design. I try to always include some sort of psychological element into my
Are you a less or more kind of designer? I am definitely a more kind of designer. I like to bring a lot to a design, especially with details and style lines. I believe that attention to detail like how seams match give a garment an extra playfulness and quality to it. This does not mean that all my designs are extremely busy to the eye; it all comes down to
many seams and textures that make a garment complex and intriguing. Does where you live affect your style at all? It is less of where I live and more of where I was born and raised. Being born and raised in Puerto Rico, I was always exposed to fine garments and a very dramatic sense of style. Us Puerto Ricans believe in more is more and we are not afraid to show a little skin. I feel like this is very reflected in my style.
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curious things Here are the team’s pick of must have products for the upcoming spring
words jenna hepp
1 Enhance your living space with a pillow cover that helps make your house a home. These also make a wonderful wedding or housewarming gift. Each pillow cover is handcrafted and custom made just for you. Available in multiple sizes to fit your needs, this pillow will be comfortingly soft as it is crafted of fine linen. hello spring pillow cover, $29, Seattle WA, sovintagechic.com
2 Created by a Seattle-based design studio founded in 2008. The X coaster is as simplistic as it is elegant, made of solid brass and entirely in the USA. Designed to elevate and present your drinkware, this set of four industrial solid brass coasters adds a sculptural practicality to any tabletop. X coasters will look great laying atop your table even when not in use. x coaster, $68, Seattle WA, shop.formaliving.com 86
3 This fantastic grey hat is an ultra stiff felt hat. The hat comes with a lovely detachable leather band as pictured. This feature helps to make styling and matching your hat to practically every outfit in your closet a piece of cake. scottie felt hat, $64, Salt Lake City UT, www.gigipip.com
4 What is spring without an adorable tea towel to help brighten up your living space? This print featuring a turquoise bike with a beautiful bouquet of flowers is like something out of a dream. Matches well with anything in your house while keeping it simple. aqua bike tea towel, $14, Seattle WA, sovintagechic.com
5 The average woman now has an insanely busy schedule, between work or class, running errands, taking care of the dog, and making it to those extremely important pilates classes. We have found this pouch that is made for On-The-Go. This comes with a pen and pockets for your phone, cards, and anything else you need to throw in the zip up pouch. ready for anything pouch, $48, anthropologie.com 87
the modern woman interview monika jonevski words isabella berkoff photography kayla crane
Monika Jonevski is a professor of contemporary issues in fashion marketing and visual communications at the Savannah College of Art and Design. Entering the workforce with an MBA in Medicine, Monika somehow found herself in the fashion industry, working side by side with designers like Yohji Yamamoto and Rick Owens. She worked for Adidas for eleven years as their director of marketing and now she uses her experience in the field to inspire and educate students from around the world. What makes you a rebel? When I’m told no, or told that I am too nice to move to New York – which pissed me off and I went to New York. When anyone tells me being nice will not go anywhere, they’re so wrong. That’s how I lasted in New York for eleven years- being real, being myself. One manager told me once, ‘you’re too nice you can’t make it in New York, in Chicago’it was so wrong. I have been real with everyone that I’ve hired, my team, just being myself. What social issues do you stand for? I push you guys for standing for sustainability- we need to look forwards. 88
How did you become interested in sustainability and ethical responsibility? I actually didn’t get into it until SCAD contacted me, then I got super into it. Have you ever dealt with sustainability at work? Nope, not really. SCAD contacted me to teach, but I want to go back to the industry and push this…it’s so import- super important! That’s why it’s my favorite class. Where do you see the fashion industry going as far as sustainability? Do you think larger companies will become sustainable? They have no choice- they have to be. It’s super unfortunate that you guys are stuck with what they’ve left behind. I feel so bad for you guys, that you are stuck with this stuff, this issue to deal with. Do you think we’ll be able to clean it up? Or do you think it will take generations to make the fashion industry sustainable? If I have the ability to push you hard enough, yes. How did you decide that you wanted to work in the fashion industry? I didn’t, I was a med
student- somehow I got an internship with Adidas and I took it. They were teaching to me to talk about basketball sneakers, and then they pushed me to the Stella McCartney brand. I moved to New York, all my colleagues worked and went to school at FIT. They were saying names like Anna Wintour and I was like ‘What? What is that?’ They would laugh at me because I didn’t know who she was. I don’t ever want you guys to feel that way again. To not know the way that felt, to not know a name like Anna Wintour. To be the only one who didn’t go to fashion school.” What were you trying to do with Med? Work with kids-(pediatrician) my mom is a nurse and my dad worked for a GM factory line. He worked in the factory for 30 years until they shut down the factory and now he’s retired. My mom being a nurse, she pushed me into med to become a doctor. Her colleague’s husband had an opening at this company, Nantucket Nectars, so I had an internship there and realized that I loved marketing! What was the coolest part about being the Director of Marketing for Adidas? The stressgetting stressed out for fashion shows, and seeing the team come in from Tokyo. Seeing the
stress, being the one that connected everyone together from sales, to PR, to design- just being the one that was trying to make them see eye to eye. What career has been your favorite and why? Global Director of Marketing for authentic brands group in New York. I hated the placeit was terrible- but I loved my coworker, my right hand – his name was Matt. He was the best! He was the creative director. We hated the environment that we were in, but we tried so hard to create good stuff. We were working for a licensing company together, and we rebranded a few brands like Erehwon, Vision Street Wear, Hickey Freeman. We rebranded those brands. I saw tap out- wresting. We learned all about different worlds, which I had no idea about- leaving the Yamamoto world to join the John Cena world. What advice would you give to students trying to enter the workforce? To be yourself- 100%. Whenever hiring, you can tell when a person is being fake. Just talk about you. Be genuine, you have to. Who wants to get someone on their team that’s fake? Sorry to be real, but who wants that? The stuff I’ve heard in interviews sucks. If you’re a good person, then you can read through it. I tried to calm them down and really read them. Just be real. I don’t want someone by my side that’s going to be fake, I want someone that is going to legit and be real.
What was your experience moving to the United States? Do you miss home? I moved here when I was eleven, yes I miss home. It was simple. I moved with my family to Detroit, and it was different. My neighbors from Macedonia moved to the same suburb- we moved together and my parents made me do a cultural dance class. What is the culture like from Macedonia? I had to wear a full on outfit and do competitions. I was pissed as hell. Middle school kid, you know. We won, we got featured in to the Detroit free press and my parents really instilled the culture in me early on. Lots of weddings, lots of festivals, lots of dancing and holding hands. My parents made me full on go and dance, and do all this stuff. Every single wedding, people knew each other. They were spitting on my head for good luck to get married, it’s part of the culture. I am super close to my mom and dad. I love them so much. I call them every day after classes and during my walks home. They’re the best. What were some of your greatest challenges in the fashion industry? Pitching ideas- that they laughed at, making them happen and showing that it worked- as dorky as it sounds. Adidas, and also with Rick Owens- my hands were tied in terms of budget, so trying to be creative. What did you study in college? MBA in medicine at Loyola How well did your college experience prepare
you for this career? No, it didn’t prepare me at all. (Once I joined the fashion industry), I cried when I went home after work. I stayed because I’m smart enough, and I said to myself I can do it. They were jerks when I went to New York. I went to work and I would come home and call my parents and cried. I was so determined to just do it right. It sounds bad but they were idiots. Just show myself in my own work, even though I didn’t go to fashion school like all of them. I was even more driven. I had an MBA and they did not. I felt entitled, but I learned very quickly to strip myself down, that it means nothing. I needed to be myself. I went to work and no one cared that I had an MBA. That taught me to not be entitled, take the cotton out of my ears and listen. I learned so much from them and now that’s what I teach you. In teaching I try my best to be transparent- this is who I am and what I know. Take from it, if you can relate. Maybe I’m not reaching out to everyone but I’m trying. I took a huge pay cut to come here. I had to look it up when SCAD contacted meI’m in my 30’s, I was sick of New York- I took a chance. I wasn’t committed to anything, I don’t have a house in NY, I came here and I feel so loved. I feel so in love with you guysyou guys are very lucky to have gotten me, before I’ve loved something else. My attention is 100% on you guys.
What classes in college proved to be the most valuable to you? In grad school one professor was super helpful for me- what she did was relate real world experiences to the content we were learning; I did a project for
her for something that I didn’t believe in at all. For the US army to recruit Islamic people to work for the army. To recruit Islamic individuals. Somehow the work that I did, she made me believe in it and I worked harder. I saw my work with my team on the subways in Chicago. I need to reach out to her. She’s the whole reason that I want to teach. Eve Geroulis- she inspired me in my work. Also a boss that I had inspired me- when I went to New York I was dealing with a PR team and they were so nasty. This one girl, she was so nasty (PR manager) and she would talk down to me so much. My boss pulled me by the coffee machine and said “I bark once for you, but I don’t bark twice.” She taught me to stand up for myself. And now that mean PR manager is my best friend. We text each day. It took time.
If you could go back to college, what would you do differently? Would you choose the same major? I’d be a doctor. I’m somehow happy finding work right now, being with people. You think doctors help people be better, but I hate the weekends so much. I love being in the room with you guys. As nerdy and dorky as it sounds. I have dreams about it- I care. I don’t know. I like you guys a lot. If I could, I would fail all of you guys so that you could stay here. Who do you see as a role model? My Dad. He’s my hero. In what ways is your occupation changing? I feel like I’ve always been a teacher. I’m a black belt in tai kwon do, and I used to be an instructor. I loved teaching then at 18, I’m 35 now. At work,
whenever I’ve hired employees, even interns, I didn’t care about them getting coffee, I cared about them getting the most the experience. I had my own agenda, but I tried to teach them while they were here. From all that you’ve observed, what problems can you cite regarding working in this industry? Be careful. People who are in lower management are afraid of interns. Show off skills and don’t be threatened by them. I’ve had to put people on my team in check, they were afraid of interns taking their jobs. Be nice, be friends with them. They’re terrified of you guys. What sacrifices have you had to make to succeed in this field? Do you feel it was worth it? Took a huge page cut to do what I love. To have a better quality of life. Do you feel like you’ve made a significant impact in your career? Which job provided you with the most ability to make a change? Probably Adidas. It’s so important to keep good relationships with your bosses- I’m in constant contact with each boss that I’ve hadjust don’t burn any bridges. I see now how it helps me because I can refer you guys in my line of work to them- the good ones. I can refer you guys to them. Through them, I stay informed. I would have no idea what’s going on with Kanye and Adidas if I wasn’t in touch with my old boss. I know insider stuff before it hits the news, so I can teach you guys.
Which career made you happiest when you went home at the end of the day? Adidas. I stayed there for eleven yrs. It was mostly because of the people that I worked with. What career moment are you most proud of? I’ve done fifteen different fashion shows with Jeremy Scott. To meet back with my group, with my team and to see people so proud of the work that we’ve done- that means so much to me. Because it cannot happen alone.
riot grrl photography veronica ibrahim design tiffany nunes 96
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mischief words sami bailey photography marlow lou
Have you ever wanted a tattoo but you were either too young, too broke, or didn’t want to commit to something for life? Luckily, you can create a fake tattoo unique to your style without breaking the bank.
1. Draw your tattoo on your skin. Take your sharpie, and draw your tattoo directly onto your skin. You can use multiple colors of sharpie if you like, but keep in mind that whatever you draw will be the ‘permanent’ version. It may be easier to have a friend help with this part, to make sure that your drawing is just right. Wait for the sharpie to dry completely. 2. Coat the drawing in baby powder. Pour a generous amount of baby powder into your hand, and thoroughly coat the sharpie drawing with the powder. Rub it into the drawing; it shouldn’t bleed or smear. Wipe off any excess powder that doesn’t stick to your skin.
3. Spray the tattoo with hairspray. Hold a can of hairspray 12–16 inches away from your tattoo, and spray over the entire thing. Make sure to thoroughly coat the tattoo and baby powder, although be careful not to get it all over the place. Wait for the hairspray to dry.
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miczjhane clay & her work words sami bailey interview miczjhane clay photography andrea di lello
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Can you tell me a little about yourself? My name is Miczjhane Clay. I’m from New York but I live in New Jersey now. I’m a sophomore fashion design major, I was accessory design but now i’m just fashion design. 101
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What inspired you to start your business? I went to a vocational high school. It was a trade school, so people go there if they don't have intentions of going to college but of course you can still go to college after going there. While attending this school I discovered new talents about myself that I hadn't known before I arrived such as the whole aspect of sewing. I was in a few competitions where
you had to construct garments which is something I had never done before. The teachers would judge the competition then the finalists would move on to the state competitions. I moved on to the state competitions and I was placing 1st place gold, that's when I said “hmmm, I must be good at this, i’m going to keep doing it� once I competed in my first few competitions.
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Tell me more about your store and the choker necklaces. When I was in high school towards the end of my senior year, I started my own business and it was under Destined Designs. I was trying to push the fact that if something is destined to be it’s going to happen regardless of what people say. Recently I've been branding myself by using my name because it is very rare “a gracious gift as unto the Lord” so I would like to use my gift to be a gift to other people. This past winter before break I was like “i’m going to start a website” It was just random. I work off of impulse so I needed to do it right then and I did it. It started off as just chokers because they were easy to make and quick to produce. I love chokers and I wanted all of these different designs and I didn't see them in stores so why not make them myself.
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I've reached a point in my life where it's the little things that matter... I was always a rebel and probably could have got much farther had I changed my attitude. But when you think about it, I got pretty far without changing attitudes. I'm happier with that.
-veronica lake
issue thirty-six | ÂŁ5
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