Self Sustained.
1
2
3
Brand Profile.
4
M&S
is one of the leading UK retailers, its clothing department being the largest in the UK by value (M&S, no date). First starting 132 years ago with Michael Marks in a stall at the Leeds Kirkgate Market, M&S is now a market leader with 1382 stores worldwide and a growing international online business (M&S, no date) selling products in categories in food, clothing, and home. The essence of the brand is one of quality, being well-known and trusted by the nation to deliver (The Guardian, 2008). Although having a high brand recognition and high street presence, the brand is relatively low profile in terms of promotions in comparison to competitors such as H&M and Zara (Wood, 2016). The company is committed to providing sustainable values and high quality products and holds a strong market in everyday essentials and underwear (M&S, no date). However, recent years, its fashion retail business has been suffering an ongoing decrease in sales due to the brands lack of aspirational identity (The Guardian, 2016). This weakness if turned into an opportunity, can see M&S evolve into an aspirational lifestyle brand of sustainability, health and ethical responsibility, hopefully attaining new markets and securing old ones. The brand’s core values are innovation, inspiration, integrity, and in touch (M&S, no date), which can be demonstrated by its comprehensive strategy, Plan A, in committing to sustainability and social responsibility. However it is often perceived as unjustly premium-priced compared to competitors such as Next and Debenhams, with doubts on its design value and innovation (Wood, 2016). This suggest the brand in need of a new and fresh approach to design, and perhaps the beginning of integrating more trend details into their products. The brands personalities include embracing, ethical, caring, sustainable, responsible, simple, honest, straightforward, constant, trustworthy, and old. Recently noteworthy actions taken by the brand which strongly verifies its commitment to sustainability is its plans to redesign its plastic packaging for better re-cycling along with consumer goods giant, Unilever (Boztas, 2017). (See appendix 1 and 2 for SWOT analysis and brand positioning map)
5
6
Board 1
7
Customer Profile.
8
The
customer profile of M&S Menswear is both men, and women (M&S Menswear Staff, 2017) between the ages of 35 to 65, mostly married with grown up children (Feng, 2017). Majority are from a mid to midhigh social-economic class, living in suburban areas, with professions in higher-level managerial roles or are retired (Drapers, 2012) (Feng, 2017). Their hobbies include those for health and others for sustainability, such as jogging, walking, hiking, biking (M&S Menswear Staff, 2017), and composting, and renovating the home with sustainable systems such as
rain water harvesting and solar panels (Sumner, 2016). They are also interested in healthy eating and gardening (M&S Menswear Staff, 2017). Their fashion needs include pieces like fleece jackets, wool coats, shirts, jumpers, chinos, jeans, loafers, socks, and underwear (Feng, 2017). Behaviour wise, they purchase for fit, material quality, functionality, and performance (M&S Menswear Staff, 2017). They mostly engage in mission like shops with a tendency to repeat purchase trusted products (M&S Menswear Staff, 2017).
9
10
Board 2
11
Jo
and Michael are a half-retired couple in their late fifties living in the suburbs of Leeds. In the early mornings, Michael gets up, feeds the dogs, and takes them out for a jog, arriving back home in time to shower and have breakfast with his wife, Jo, at 8:00. Jo leaves the house at 8:30 and arrives at the care home in town for 9:00 where she has been helping out at since she half retired from the middle school where she’s been teaching at for the past decade. Michael on the other hand, has retired entirely from his accounting job a couple years ago, and now spends his mornings reading the news on his desktop computer and replying to emails of friends and family, especially enjoying photos of his baby grandson who lives in France with his daughter and her husband’s family. He then goes on to do his gardening and composting, a new hobby he’s taken up since retirement. Jo comes back home at noon and has a quick lunch with Michael before she takes him out to do some shopping in town for some much needed new socks (all ruined from jogging in the muddy fields), and a new smart shirt to wear for next week’s dinner with their youngest daughter and her fiancé. Michael doesn’t normally enjoy clothes shopping, and would much rather Jo do it for him, but when it comes to shirts and suits, he gets a bit fussy and is never quite happy with Jo’s choice, Jo has therefore learnt to bring Michael with her for this kind of shopping, saving the hassle of unsatisfied returns later on. Since Michael started gardening and composting, he’s learnt quite a few things about sustainable and healthy living, very much convinced by the virtues of such a lifestyle, he recently got himself a state-of-the-art home composting system for his birthday. Remembering an email he read this morning from his fellow gardening friend sharing a new discovery of the sustainability plan at M&S called Plan A, Michael is curious and wants to check it out, and therefore urges Jo to go there instead of Jo’s usual go-to-store, John Lewis. After an hour of shopping, Jo and Michael return home with bundles of socks and a full suit (enthusiastically recommended and put together by an assistant at the men’s formal wear department). Although not totally convinced about M&S’s Plan A for clothing, Michael and Jo are nonetheless satisfied as the quality, fit, and service was of high standards. At late afternoon, Michael feeds the dogs and takes them out for a walk, coming home in time for dinner. The couple chat about possible plans to visit their daughter in France, and also their upcoming holiday in Denmark next month. After a couple hours of TV, including their favourite show, the Antiques Roadshow, they bid goodnight to the dogs and head off to bed, ending another Day in a Life.
12
A Day in a Life.
13
With
innovators which are majority men between the ages of 35 to 65, married with children and working within environment and sustainability related fields, the Self Sustained lifestyle trend is about a desire and direction towards living off the grid, becoming self-sustaining and resilient, and having zero-impact and being carbon neutral. This directional
move is driven primarily by environmental disasters, anomalies and concerns for diminishing resources. Other motivators include political unrest, legislation changes (climate change agreements and laws), influential advocates, and popularity in apocalyptic dystopian film and literature. Innovations in related technologies also facilitate these changes. Current consequences witnessed in the early to late majority of
14
trend adopters include small steps such as growing home vegetable gardens, waste composting, house insulating, opting for electric/hybrid cars, commuting via cycling or public transport, and purchasing of sustainable products. Possible forecasted impacts and futures include adoption of sustainable circular economies; formation of small local self-relying communities; construction of carbon neutral, net-zero
capable city projects; wide adoption of multi-purpose products; mandatory carbon footprint labels and tax; mass conversion to vegetarian/vegan diets; and the withdrawal of the affluent into rural natural environments.
Trend Report: Self Sustained (Feng, 2016)
Lifestyle Trend: Self Sustained. 15
16
Need & Opportunity for Trend.
From
the brand profile of M&S, one can discern the weakness of the brand lacking an aspirational lifestyle direction which leaves the brand’s offering in a vague and unclear position in the market, resulting in years of decline in sales. However, M&S does have a committed intention and plan to evolve into an all-around sustainable brand, and if this opportunity is seized to market and push the brand into a more constructive, strong and clear positioning, it may prove to help increase and secure current market share. Also, as the brand’s customer profile and the trend’s innovators and adopters overlap to some extent, the move of M&S implementing the Self Sustained trend for its new collection has relatively high potential for success. Most obviously, this trend coincides with M&S’s current major sustainable business strategy, Plan A, and carrying out this trend into its collection will help further ensure its customers of the brand’s commitment and sincerity towards its cooperate social responsibilities, strengthening the brands reputation and value in the eyes of consumers, and hopefully gaining an aspirational edge for the brand.
17
Mood & Colour.
18
With
the turbulent state of the world and the natural environment, fear, hate and feelings of unjust and suppression drive people into living a selfsustained, self-relying, and resilient lifestyle (Feng, 2017). Exponential growth in population and technological innovations are bringing the world ever closer, but emotionally, the world is more distant than ever. There is a craving for open honesty, physical space, and calm clarity, but also to feel humanity again, with its touch and all its emotions, raw and primitive like the natural world. Colours which echo and release these intense emotions such as red will be directional (Birren, 1961). Tones which give off a human touch such as flesh, peach, nudes and pinks will endear those which crave humanity. Browns and greens which remind us of primitive natural worlds enveloped in peace and tranquillity will help soothe the negativities that surrounds modern life (Birren, 1961) (Boody, 2016). To translate this into M&S’s handwriting, the palette is kept to bolder and purer shades (M&S, no date) instead of the other murkier and darker ones forecasted (View, 2016).
19
20
21
Fabrics & Yarns.
22
100% Linen
100% Plan A Cotton
70% Cotton 30% Polyester
100% Merino Wool
70% Polyester 30% Viscose
100% Polyester
Mock Seude 100% Polyester
Denim 99% Cotton 1% Elastane
64% Polyester 34% Viscose 2% Elastane
Lived
-in and weathered textures which reveal a human and natural touch are directional, such as crumple-finished linens (Palmer, 2016), a more sustainable alternative to cotton (Blackburn, 2016). Light-weight fabrics which allow functionality will also be important, such as synthetic papery fabrics (Palmer, 2016) which can be achieved through blending cotton or viscose (also a good sustainable alternative to cotton (Blackburn, 2016)) with polyester. Other fabrics which exhibit functionality through weather proof coatings and durable and resilient designs will also be desirable (Palmer, 2016). Soft and protective textures which remind us of a
human/animal touch will be directional as well, such as soft worn leather, suede, or peached cotton (Palmer, 2016). A faux suede can be achieved completely through polyester (as a sustainable and ethical concept cannot involve animal skin) (M&S, no date). In accordance to M&S’s handwriting, some Plan A cotton will remain in use, however, the collection should aim to move away from cotton through sustainable alternatives such as the linen and Viscose mentioned, or exchanging for synthetics or a blend with synthetics (Feng, 2017) (Blackburn, 2016). Wool, a relatively sustainable material if sourced from farms of ethical processes, can also be used for some transitional light-weight knitted jumpers.
23
24
Key Silhouettes. For silhouettes, the trend focuses on lightweight fabrics which give off a relaxed and utilitarian volume (Casey, 2016). Silhouettes forecasted which are more suitable for mature markets should be adopted, especially ones which makes rely on synthetics to create. To create a basic everyday essential collection, silhouettes which are easier to integrate into customer’s existing wardrobe, or are essential pieces for a man’s wardrobe should be selected, for example, wool/sport coats (casual alternatives to a suit jackets), loafers, crew neck T-shirt, trench coats, denim jackets and a navy suit (alternative to the more formal black or greys) (Berlinger, 2016) (van den Broeke, 2017). The aim of the range should not depart from M&S’s core identities such as modern, stylish,
25
26
Board 3
27
Retail & Communications.
For
the Self Sustained trend, it encompasses a craving to be able to open up, be honest and vulnerable; to feel humanity and a human touch, but also to sense a trace of an older time, one of the primitive and natural world. The visual merchandising of the stores should therefore be focused on the sense of space and openness in terms of structure. But for material textures and surfaces, cold and perfect metallic props and displays should be avoided. Instead, textured surfaces which look marked by time, imperfect, but natural should be adopted (Dickinson, 2016). Same applies for mannequins. Lighting wise, the space should be well lit, but softly so, which can be achieved through shinning the light through or letting it reflect on shapes and surfaces (Dickinson, 2016).
renovations of the retail space to be carried out, therefore focus could be directed to other retail experiences and marketing strategies, such as the communication of sustainability and helping the consumer feel more directly benefited through choosing sustainability. Possible tactics could be for example, with the initial purchase of a piece from the Self Sustained collection, it will be packaged in a tote bag (made of recycled material with clear, bold, simple graphics communicating sustainability information) and if the customer brings the tote bag with them next time they purchase in the fashion department, they will be able to enjoy a 10% discount for transactions over ÂŁ50, and have this event carry on for a month, etc. Another idea could be to have iconographic on clothes tags on for example, how much water is saved because the customer chose the Self-Sustained Linen shirt over a normal cotton one; or how much less pesticides were used and released into the environment etc.
As M&S is a brand that is less experimental, and caters for a more mature and traditional market (Feng, 2017), it leaves little opportunity for drastic
28
29
30
31
Appendix 1—SWOT Analysis STRENGTHS
WEAKNESSES
British roots
High brand recognition and high street presence
Quality goods
Significant position in the market for everyday essentials such as underwear.
Strong premium food department
Plan A: commitment to sustainability and social responsibility Comprehensive choice (great breadth and width in product category) Innovative food offering
Recently reinvented distribution and IT system
Premium price point (which may not necessary be justified by it clothing offering in terms of design quality and innovation) Inaccurate predictions of sales leading to poor availability Old-fashioned, not perceived as innovative/ fashionable Huge store space and store number difficult to fill up/organise space in an appealing way and ends to look dowdy and super market like Closing of clothing departments and oversea stores Poor fit Price lacking competition compared to peers such as Next and Debenhams
OPPORTUNITIES
THREATS
Align clothing department with the food department into a premium aspirational positioning Core customers are interested in a healthy lifestyle: opportunity to move towards a healthy aspirational brand Plans to redesign plastic packaging along with Unilever to cut waste New boss initiating investments to overhaul the business
Other own-brand clothing retailers dominating the market e.g. H&M, Zara
Falling clothing and homeware sales and market share for 3 years
Tough trading conditions in retail
Plan A aiming to become the world’s most sustainable retailer
New ‘no frills’ approach to over sea expansions proving success after the initial withdrawal from Europe in the early 2000s
Plans to reduce promotional activity can prove to be detrimental for a brand like M&S which has already become very low profile in comparison to competitors Britons spending more on leisure activity than clothing à falling national clothing and footwear sales by volume and value Brexit may affect future material import and oversea outsourcing costs.
Renewing sourcing and supply chains
32
Brexit also affecting the British economy as a whole with reduced consumer confidence and spending across the country
33
Fashionable
Non
Low Price Point
High Price Point
Fashionable
Appendix 2—Brand Positioning.
M&S. [no date]. M&S Today. [Online]. [Accessed 8 February]. Available from: http:// corporate.marksandspencer.com/aboutus/mandstoday
References. Berlinger, M. 2016. 21 Things Every Man Should Have in His Closet. GQ. [Online]. 1 January. [Accessed 13 March 2017]. Available at: http://www.gq.com/ story/mans-style-shopping-guide-2016
M&S. [no date]. Mock Suede Harrington Jacket. [Online]. [Accessed 1 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.marksandspencer.com/harringtonbomber-jacket/p/p60095480? image=SD_03_T16_7385A_XM_X_EC_90&color=BUR GUNDY&prevPage=srp#
Birren, F. 1961. Color psychology and Color Therapy: A
Factual Study of the Influence of Color on Human Life. [Online]. New Jersey: The Citadel Press. [Accessed 23 February 2017]. Available from: https:// babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt? id=mdp.39015010591421;view=1up;seq=11
M&S. [no date]. Our Heritage. [Online]. [Accessed 8 February]. Available from: https:// corporate.marksandspencer.com/aboutus/ourheritage
Blackburn, R. 2016. Sustainability: Definitions, research and development. [PowerPoint presentation]. DESN2350 Marketing Creativity & Innovation. University of Leeds.
M&S. 2017. Men New In – Inner/Underwear. [Online]. [Accessed 9 March 2017]. Available from: http:// www.marksandspencer.com/l/men/new-in
Boddy J. 2016. Global Colour S/S 18. [Online]. [Accessed 23 February 2017]. Available from: https://0-www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/ board_viewer/#/65739/page/1
M&S. 2017. Men New In - Outerwear. [Online]. [Accessed 9 March 2017]. Available from: http:// www.marksandspencer.com/l/men/new-in
Boztas, S. 2017. M&S and Unilever promise plastic redesign to cut waste. The Guardian. [Online]. 13 November. [Accessed 8 February 2017]. Available from: https://www.theguardian.com/sustainablebusiness/2017/feb/02/packaging-plasticspollution-recycling-unilever-dove-marks-spencer
Palmer, H. 2016. Men's Textiles Forecast S/S 18: Slow Futures. [Online]. [Accessed 23 February 2017]. Available from: https://0www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/ board_viewer/#/67583/page/15
Casey, C. 2016. Key Items S/S 18: Men's Knitwear. [Online]. [no place]: WGSN. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available at: https://0www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/ board_viewer/#/67407/page/2
The Guardian. 2008. The history of Marks and Spencer. The Guardian. [Online]. 9 July. [Accessed 8 February 2017]. Available from: https:// www.theguardian.com/business/gallery/2008/ jul/09/marksandspencer.history
Dickinson, C. 2017. Visual Merchandising Forecast S/S 18: Slow Futures. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: https://0www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/ board_viewer/#/70301/page/4
The Guardian. 2016. M&S must sell clothes just like it sells food. The Guardian. [Online]. 13 November. [Accessed 8 February 2017]. Available from: https:// www.theguardian.com/business/2016/nov/13/mand-s-marks-spencers-must-sell-clothes-like-it-sellsfood
Drapers. 2012. A day in the life of Mark Sumner. Drapers. [Online]. 31 March. [Accessed 1 February]. Available from: https://www.drapersonline.com/businessoperations/a-day-in-the-life-of-marksumner/5035151.article
van den Broeke, T. 2017. 20 Things Every Man Should Have In His Wardrobe. Esquire. [Online]. 30 January. [Accessed 13 March 2017]. Available at: http:// www.esquire.co.uk/style/fashion/news/g5743/20things-every-man-should-have-in-his-wardrobe/ View. 2016. The Big Idea – The Translation 1. Textiles View Magazine. #114
Feng, W. 2016. Trend Report [no place]: [no publisher]. Feng, W. 2017. Trend Package: Reflective Research Journal. [no place]: [no publisher].
Wood, Z. 2016. The challenges facing Marks & Spencer's new chief. The Guardian. [Online]. 2 April. [Accessed 16 February]. Available from: https:// www.theguardian.com/business/2016/apr/02/ challenges-facing-marks-spencers-new-chief-steve-
M&S Menswear Staff. 2017. Interview with M&S menswear staff. 22 February. Leeds.
34
rowe
a6675621.html Figure 95:
List of Figures.
M&S. [no date]. This is no ordinary village; this is an M&S village. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: http:// www.bartonwyatt.co.uk/this-is-no-ordinaryvillage-this-is-an-ms-village/
Figure 1: Turner, A. 2014. Maintaining the ‘history’ of the market. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: https://leeds-list.com/discussion/a-changefor-the-better-for-kirkgate-market/
Figure 96:
PR. [no date]. M&S traces its history back to
rooney.london. 2010. M&S Plan A 1. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: http://rooney.london/project/ms -plan-a-brand-development/
Michael Marks (left) and Thomas Spencer.
Figure 97:
Brand Profile Figures Figure 90:
[Online]. [Accessed 8 February 2017]. Available from: business/gallery/2008/jul/09/ marksandspencer.history
The Wall Street Journal. 2015. Marks & Spencer Profit Drops 24%. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: https://www.wsj.com/articles/marksspencer-profit-drops-24-1446626813
Figure 91: Turner, A. 2014. Maintaining the ‘history’ of the market. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: https://leedslist.com/discussion/a-change-for-thebetter-for-kirkgate-market/
Figure 98:
Figure 92:
Eight Million Stories. [no date]. Magic & Sparkle #followthefaries. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: http://www.8ms.com/2015/01/12/ christmas-advert-comparison-infographic/
M&S. 2013. Olympic Boxing Champion
Figure 99:
Nicola Adams joins Marks & Spencer sales campaign. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April
John Lewis. [no date]. John Lewis Logo. [Online]. [Accessed 30 January]. Available from: https://commons.wikimedia.org/ wiki/File:John_Lewis_Logo.svg
2017]. Available from: http:// www.thetelegraphandargus.co.uk/ news/10621299.Olympic_boxing_champio n_Nicola_Adams_joins_Marks___Spencer _sales_campaign/?ref=rss
Figure 100: Next. [no date]. Next Logo. [Online]. [Accessed 16 February 2017]. Available from: http://www.nextplc.co.uk/media/ image-gallery/logos
Figure 93: The Trade Boss. [no date]. Marks & Spencer launch new Bahrain store. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: http://www.thetradeboss.com/ news_detail.php?id=512
Figure 101: H&M. [no date]. H&M Logo. [Online]. [Accessed 16 February 2017]. Available from: http://www.artsfon.com/ download/73425/1920x1080/
Figure 94: M&S. [2015]. Mark & Spencer ads feature
breast cancer survivors in #ShowYourStrap Campaign. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April
Figure 102: Zara. [no date]. Zara Logo. [Online]. [Accessed 16 February 2017]. Available from: http://fullhdpictures.com/zara-logoand-hq-wallpapers.html
2017]. Available from: http:// www.independent.co.uk/news/business/ mark-spencer-ads-features-breast-cancersurvivors-in-showyourstrap-campaign-
Figure 103:
35
Debenhams. [no date]. Debenhams Logo. [Online]. [Accessed 16 February 2017]. Available from: http://logosdownload.com/6436-debenhams-logodownload.html
Guardian and Observer newspapers are now available as a Kindle Fire and Android tablet app. [Online]. [Accessed 23 February 2017]. Available from: https://thenextweb.com/ apps/2013/12/20/guardian-observernewspapers-now-available-kindle-fireandroid-tablet-app/
Figure 104: F&F. [no date]. F&F Logo. [Online]. [Accessed 16 February 2017]. Available from:
Figure 110: Somerset Waste Partnership. [no date]. How to Compost. [Online]. [Accessed 23 February 2017]. Available from: http:// www.somersetwaste.gov.uk/more/ composting/advice/
https://www.easyfundraising.org.uk/ retailer/tesco-f-and-f-clothing/ Figure 2: DickiesStoreUK. 2014. Top Tips and Advice for Running with Your Dog. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: https:// www.dickiesstore.co.uk/blog/top-tips-and-advice-for -running-with-your-dog/
Figure 111: Gavin, J. 2016. Healthy Berry Muesli Breakfast Bowls. [Online]. [Accessed 23 February 2017]. Available from: http:// www.jessicagavin.com/berry-mueslibreakfast-bowls/
Customer Profile Figures: Figure 105:
Figure 112:
Myageingparent.com. [no date]. How to hire a home carer. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: https:// myageingparent.com/care/care-options/ how-to-hire-a-home-carer/
Lui, R. 2016. Antiques Roadshow. [Online]. [Accessed 23 February 2017]. Available from: http://www.desertsun.com/story/ life/entertainment/ television/2016/08/06/marilyn-monroeelvis-pics-big-hit-antiques-roadshowps/87965696/
Figure 106: UTC. 2016. Senior man on phone and computer. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: https://www.ncoa.org/man -in-home-office-on-telephone-usingcomputer-smiling/
Figure 113: Visit Denmark. [no date]. 10 famous Danish attractions. [Online]. [Accessed 23 February 2017]. Available from: http:// www.visitdenmark.co.uk/en-gb/denmark/ top-10-most-famous-danish-attractions
Figure 107: Cornforth, A. 2017. Luxury accommodation,
Figure 114:
near beach, moors and quaint yorkshire villages. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: https:// www.ownersdirect.co.uk/accommodation/ p1890520
My Style Pill. 2009. Dapper Dad. [Online]. [Accessed 23 February 2017]. Available from: http://www.mystylepill.com/tag/ style/page/6/
Figure 108:
Figure 115:
DickiesStoreUK. 2014. Top Tips and Advice for Running with Your Dog. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: https://www.dickiesstore.co.uk/blog/toptips-and-advice-for-running-with-your-dog/
Bauer-Griffin. [no date]. Ryan Makes Classic Dad Attire Look Good. [Online]. [Accessed 23 February 2017]. Available from: https:// www.popsugar.co.uk/celebrity/photogallery/35885150/image/35885145/ Ryan-Makes-Classic-Dad-Attire-Look-Good
Figure 109: Figure 3:
Barbour, S and Getty Images. [no date]. The
36
Barbour, S and Getty Images. [no date]. The Guardian
www.pinterest.com/asterionmusic/fine-art-nude/
and Observer newspapers are now available as a Kindle Fire and Android tablet app. [Online]. [Accessed
Figure 12:
23 February 2017]. Available from: https:// thenextweb.com/apps/2013/12/20/guardianobserver-newspapers-now-available-kindle-fireandroid-tablet-app/
BsnSCB. [no date]. Download Free Moss Wallpapers 1920x1080. [Online]. [Accessed 9 March 2017]. Available from: http://bsnscb.com/mosswallpapers/39189072.html#
Figure 4:
Figure 13:
Rasmussen, B. [no date]. In the Seaholm EcoDistrict, the courtyard is a venue for music events; residences and businesses like Trader Joe's are built around it. [Online]. [Accessed 10 December]. Available from: http://www.nationalgeographic.com/environment/ urban-expeditions/austin/austin-green-buildingsfight-urban-sprawl/
Image 3 – Medicine Simply. [no date]. Brown Freckles. [Online]. [Accessed 9 March 2017]. Available from: https://medicinesimply.wordpress.com/tag/ freckles/ Figure 14: Image 4 – Pokrzywinski, A. [no date]. Pacific Halibut. [Online]. [Accessed 9 March 2017]. Available from: http://www.npr.org/sections/ thesalt/2014/06/17/322920045/red-fish-bluefish-where-the-fish-flesh-rainbow-comes-from
Figure 5: rooney.london. 2010. M&S Plan A 1. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: http:// rooney.london/project/ms-plan-a-branddevelopment/
Figure 15: Image 5 – [no author]. [no date]. Night Calm Parking Boat Lake Landscape. [Online]. [Accessed 9 March 2017]. Available from: http:// www.ilikewallpaper.net/ipad-air-wallpaper/NightCalm-Parking-Boat-Lake-Landscape/29503
Figure 6: [no author]. [no date]. Harry Styles Imagine Scratch Marks. [Online]. [Accessed 9 March 2017]. Available from: https://www.wattpad.com/144075445-harrystyles-imagine-scratch-marks
Figure 16:
Figure 7:
Image 5 – [no author]. [no date]. Pomegranate Photography. [Online]. [Accessed 9 March 2017]. Available from: https://www.pinterest.com/serenbayrak/ nar-pomegranate/
[no author]. [no date]. Beautiful green landscape. [Online]. [Accessed 9 March 2017]. Available from: http://www.wallpapermania.eu/wallpaper/beautifulgreen-landscape/5120x3200
Figure 17:
Figure 8:
Image 7 – Noton, M. 2011. Technical Details. [Online]. [Accessed 9 March 2017]. Available from: https://mylesnoton.com/blog/photo-passion-fruit/
Verboeckhoven, E. [no date]. Sheep With Resting Lambs And Poultry In A Landscape. [Online]. [Accessed 9 March 2017]. Available from: https:// www.toperfect.com/Sheep-With-Resting-Lambs-AndPoultry-In-A-Landscape-Eugene-Verboeckhovenanimal.html
Figure 18: WGSN. 2016. Sunnei S/S 17. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://0www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/search/ search.php#%7B%22start%22%3A%200%2C%20% 22limit%22%3A%2050%2C%20%22logSearch% 22%3A%20true%2C%20%22f_limit%22%3A%205% 2C%20%22q%22%3A%20%22%22%2C%20% 22facets%5B%5D%22%3A%20%5B% 22classif_name%7C19097%22%2C%20% 22market%7C49154%22%2C%20%22category% 7C18819%22%2C%20%22keywords%7C121986% 22%2C%20%22colors%7C1993%22%5D%7D
Figure 10: Image 2 – Vactual Wallpapers. 2016. Water Drops Ona Leaf HD Mobile Wallpaper. [Online]. [Accessed 9 March 2017]. Available from: http:// www.vactualpapers.com/gallery/water-drops-onaleaf-hd-mobile-wallpaper Figure 11: Tunick, S. 2010. Mardi Gras: The Base. [Online]. [Accessed 9 March 2017]. Available from: https://
37
Figure 19:
22market%7C49154%22%2C%20%22category% 7C18819%22%2C%20%22keywords%7C121986% 22%2C%20%22colors%7C1980%22%5D%7D
WGSN. 2016. Balenciaga S/S 17. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://0www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/search/ search.php#%7B%22start%22%3A%2096%2C% 20%22limit%22%3A%2048%2C%20% 22logSearch%22%3A%20true%2C%20%22f_limit% 22%3A%205%2C%20%22q%22%3A%20%22%22% 2C%20%22facets%5B%5D%22%3A%20%5B% 22classif_name%7C19097%22%2C%20% 22market%7C49154%22%2C%20%22season% 7C800201%22%2C%20%22colors%7C1993%22% 2C%20%22tones%7C57052%22%5D%7D
Figure 23: WGSN. 2016. Todd Snyder S/S 17. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://0www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/search/ search.php#%7B%22start%22%3A%200%2C%20% 22limit%22%3A%2045%2C%20%22logSearch% 22%3A%20true%2C%20%22f_limit%22%3A%205% 2C%20%22q%22%3A%20%22%22%2C%20% 22facets%5B%5D%22%3A%20%5B% 22classif_name%7C19097%22%2C%20% 22market%7C49154%22%2C%20%22category% 7C18819%22%2C%20%22keywords%7C121986% 22%2C%20%22colors%7C1980%22%5D%7D
Figure 20: WGSN. 2016. Gucci S/S 17. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://0www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/search/ search.php#%7B%22start%22%3A%200%2C%20% 22limit%22%3A%2050%2C%20%22logSearch% 22%3A%20true%2C%20%22f_limit%22%3A%205% 2C%20%22q%22%3A%20%22%22%2C%20% 22facets%5B%5D%22%3A%20%5B% 22classif_name%7C19097%22%2C%20% 22market%7C49154%22%2C%20%22category% 7C18819%22%2C%20%22designer%7C22%22% 2C%20%22keywords%7C121986%22%5D%7D
Figure 24: WGSN. 2016. Bottega Veneta S/S 17. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://0www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/search/ search.php#%7B%22start%22%3A%200%2C%20% 22limit%22%3A%2050%2C%20%22logSearch% 22%3A%20true%2C%20%22f_limit%22%3A%205% 2C%20%22q%22%3A%20%22%22%2C%20% 22facets%5B%5D%22%3A%20%5B% 22classif_name%7C19097%22%2C%20% 22market%7C49154%22%2C%20%22season% 7C800201%22%2C%20%22colors%7C1993%22% 2C%20%22tones%7C57052%22%5D%7D
Figure 21: WGSN. 2016. Hermès S/S 17. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://0www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/search/ search.php#%7B%22start%22%3A%200%2C%20% 22limit%22%3A%2050%2C%20%22logSearch% 22%3A%20true%2C%20%22f_limit%22%3A%205% 2C%20%22q%22%3A%20%22%22%2C%20% 22facets%5B%5D%22%3A%20%5B% 22classif_name%7C19097%22%2C%20% 22market%7C49154%22%2C%20%22category% 7C18819%22%2C%20%22keywords%7C121986% 22%2C%20%22designer%7C31%22%5D%7D
Figure 25: WGSN. 2016. Y/Project S/S 17. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://0www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/search/ search.php#%7B%22start%22%3A%200%2C%20% 22limit%22%3A%2050%2C%20%22logSearch% 22%3A%20true%2C%20%22f_limit%22%3A%205% 2C%20%22q%22%3A%20%22%22%2C%20% 22facets%5B%5D%22%3A%20%5B% 22classif_name%7C19097%22%2C%20% 22market%7C49154%22%2C%20%22category% 7C18819%22%2C%20%22keywords%7C121986% 22%2C%20%22colors%7C1978%22%2C%20% 22tones%7C1989%22%5D%7D
Figure 22: WGSN. 2016. Kenzo S/S 17. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://0www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/search/ search.php#%7B%22start%22%3A%200%2C%20% 22limit%22%3A%2045%2C%20%22logSearch% 22%3A%20true%2C%20%22f_limit%22%3A%205% 2C%20%22q%22%3A%20%22%22%2C%20% 22facets%5B%5D%22%3A%20%5B% 22classif_name%7C19097%22%2C%20%
Figure 26: Pantone. 2017. PANTONE 19-1656 TCX Rio Red. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://www.pantone.com/color-finder/19-1656TCX
38
Figure 27:
trousers/beach-trousers-with-waist-cordc29509p500113007.html#802
Pantone. 2017. PANTONE 18-1242 TCX Brown Patina. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://www.pantone.com/color-finder/18-1242TCX
Figure 35: M&S. [no date]. Collared Neck Mac with Stormwear™. [Online]. [Accessed 1 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.marksandspencer.com/collared-neckmac-with-stormwear/p/p22489947? image=SD_03_T16_5351M_F0_X_EC_90&color=NAV Y&prevPage=srp#
Figure 28: Pantone. 2017. PANTONE 19-0419 TCX Rifle Green. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://www.pantone.com/color-finder/19-0419TCX
Figure 36:
Figure 29:
WGSN. 2016. Marvy Jamoke. [Online]. [Accessed 1 May 2017]. Available from: https://0www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/ board_viewer/#/68198/page/7
Pantone. 2017. PANTONE 19-5414 TCX June Bug. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://www.pantone.com/color-finder/19-5414TCX
Figure 37:
Figure 30:
M&S. [no date]. Pure Cotton Henley Crew Neck T-Shirt. [Online]. [Accessed 1 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.marksandspencer.com/pure-cotton-staysoft-henley-neck-t-shirt/p/p22402249? image=SD_03_T28_5257M_Z4_X_EC_90&color=WHIT EMIX&prevPage=plp#
Pantone. 2017. PANTONE 12-1403 TCX Tapioca. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://www.pantone.com/color-finder/12-1403TCX Figure 31: Pantone. 2017. PANTONE 17-1644 TCX Spiced Coral. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://www.pantone.com/color-finder/17-1644TCX
Figure 38: Marvy Jamoke. 2016. MJ-5011-16. [Online]. [Accessed 1 May 2017]. Available from: http:// www.rayline-co.com/mj/2015/1221194631.html
Figure 32: M&S. [no date]. Pure Linen Easy Care Shirt with Pocket. [Online]. [Accessed 1 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.marksandspencer.com/pure-linen-easycare-shirt-with-pocket/p/p22488575? image=SD_03_T25_2379M_Z0_X_EC_90&color=WHIT E&prevPage=srp#
Figure 39: M&S. [no date]. Straight Fit Stretch Water Resistant Jeans. [Online]. [Accessed 1 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.marksandspencer.com/straight-leg -stretch-jeans/p/p22438312? image=SD_03_T17_8454M_E2_X_EC_90&color=MED IUMBLUE&prevPage=srp
Figure 33: M&S. [no date]. Mock Suede Harrington Jacket. [Online]. [Accessed 1 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.marksandspencer.com/harringtonbomber-jacket/p/p60095480? image=SD_03_T16_7385A_XM_X_EC_90&color=BUR GUNDY&prevPage=srp#
Figure 40:
Figure 34:
M&S. [no date]. Pure Merino Wool Crew Neck Jumper. [Online]. [Accessed 1 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.marksandspencer.com/pure-merinowool-tailored-fit-jumper/p/p22489354? prevPage=srp#
M&S. [no date]. Lightweight Jacket with Stormwear™. [Online]. [Accessed 1 May 2017]. Available from: http://www.marksandspencer.com/lightweightjacket-with-stormwear/p/p22490539?_wtClick=rvi Figure 41:
Pull&Bear. [no date]. Beach trousers with waist cord. [Online]. [Accessed 1 May 2017]. Available from: https://www.pullandbear.com/gb/man/clothing/
39
Figure 42:
board_viewer/?lang=en#/68198/page/7
Goetze. [no date]. MULTI-PLACEMENT POCKET SHIRT. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://0-www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/ board_viewer/?lang=en#/68280/page/8
Range Plan Figures: Image 1 - WGSN. 2016. MULTI-PLACEMENT POCKET SHIRT. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://0www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/ board_viewer/?lang=en#/68280/page/8
Figure 43: Matieres. [no date]. GRAPHIC TEE. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://0www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/ board_viewer/#/67407/page/4
Image 2 - WGSN. 2016. UTILITY HENLEY. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://0www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/ board_viewer/#/67407/page/10
Figure 44: Pull & Bear. [no date]. WOVEN JOGGER. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://0 -www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/ board_viewer/?lang=en#/68248/page/4
Image 3 - WGSN. 2016. GRAPHIC TEE. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://0www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/ board_viewer/#/67407/page/4
Figure 45: El Pais. [no date]. LIGHTWEIGHT TRENCH COAT. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://0-www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/ board_viewer/?lang=en#/68189/page/7
Image 4 - WGSN. 2016. REWORKED WESTERN. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://0www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/ board_viewer/?lang=en#/68189/ page/10
Figure 46: Neighborhood. [no date]. NYLON 4-POCKET JACKET. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://0-www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/ board_viewer/?lang=en#/68189/page/11
Image 5 & 10 - WGSN. 2016. LIGHTWEIGHT SUIT. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://0www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/ board_viewer/?lang=en#/68198/page/7
Figure 47: Sunspel. [no date]. UTILITY HENLEY. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://0 -www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/ board_viewer/#/67407/page/10
Image 6 - WGSN. 2016. LIGHTWEIGHT TRENCH COAT. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://0www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/ board_viewer/?lang=en#/68189/page/7
Figure 48:
Image 7 - WGSN. 2016. NYLON 4-POCKET JACKET. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://0www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/ board_viewer/?lang=en#/68189/ page/11
Boys By Girls. [no date]. COLOUR-BLOCKED CUT & SEW TOP. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://0www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/ board_viewer/#/67649/page/13 Figure 49:
Image 8 - WGSN. 2016. BAGGY JEAN. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://0www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/ board_viewer/?lang=en#/68248/page/2
Marvy Jamoke. [no date]. REWORKED WESTERN. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://0-www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/ board_viewer/?lang=en#/68189/page/10 Figure 50:
Image 9 - WGSN. 2016. WOVEN JOGGER. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://0www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/
Officine Generale. [no date]. LIGHTWEIGHT SUIT. [Online]. [Accessed 14 March 2017]. Available from: https://0-www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/
40
board_viewer/?lang=en#/68248/page/4 Figure 51: WGSN. [no date]. Daniel Rybakken. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: https://0www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/ board_viewer/#/70301/page/4 Figure 52: WGSN. [no date]. Elkeland. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: https://0www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/ board_viewer/#/70301/page/4 Figure 53: WGSN. 2013. COS x Bonsoir Paris: Fuorisalone, Milan. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: https://0-www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/ content/board_viewer/#/136106/page/1 Figure 54: WGSN. 2015. Proportion London: Components Collection Launch. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: https://0www.wgsn.com.wam.leeds.ac.uk/content/ board_viewer/#/59176/page/1 Figure 55: [no author]. [no date]. Retail/Hotel Hook-Up: TransIndustry Brand Matching. [Online]. [Accessed 25 April 2017]. Available from: http://www.stylus.com/qyfzqy
41