Jetstar Australia Magazine — DEC 2019

DEC 2019

MAGAZINE

H IK I N G M A R G A RE T R I V ER’S C A PE T O C A PE T R AC K A SI A’S SPEC TAC UL A R N E W Y E A R’S C EL EB R AT IO N S

MAGAZINE

F R EE T O TA K E H O M E

W H Y BY R O N B AY IS SI M PLY IRRESIS T IBL E

W HERE N T HE DEC 2019

→

WORL D ?

The hot new destinations for 2020. First stop Tokyo...

B U S S E LT O N

MELB O URNE

BALI

SYDNEY

COOK ISL ANDS

SINGAPORE

A DEL A IDE

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THE GREAT JOURNEYS OF NEW ZEALAND

DEC 2019

CONTENTS

the traveller W HERE T O G O N E X T

052 DES T IN AT IO N N E X T These are the 15 hotspots to put on the itinerary for 2020.

the checklist ALL T HE T R AVEL IN T EL YO U NEED N O W

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P O S T C A R D F R O M ...

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H AC K: H O W T O L O O K G L A M O N H O L I D AY S

Collins St, Melbourne.

A celeb makeup artist’s top tips.

022

7 M Y T H S A B O U T...

Seoul.

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T W O S I D E S O F...

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H A C K: S TAY S A F E AT T H E BE AC H

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T R AV EL T R E N D S: HIP HOSTELS

South Australia.

How to read those beach flags.

Backpacker accommodation is stepping up the style stakes.

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S P E C I A L F E AT U R E: ASIAN NEW YEARS

@ayaseeks

Continue the celebration well into 2020 with these fun festivities.

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SMARTER WORKING

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TECH A guide to smart-home cameras.

064

045

TR AVEL NE W S

Visitors to this northern NSW town reveal why it is such a magnetic destination.

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The latest trends; and we hack the best minds in business.

All the latest updates, info and events from around our network.

CALENDAR What not to miss this month.

B Y R O N B AY

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C O N T EN T S

0 74 MARGARET RIVER Walking the Cape to Cape track is a lifeaffirming experience.

the cut T H E BES T OF W H ERE T O E AT, D R IN K A N D PL AY

110

E AT + D R I N K: SY D N E Y Divine degustations, wine bars and waterfront restaurants in the NSW capital.

118

H A P P Y H O U R S: ADEL AIDE Beer, wine, cocktails – have it all without breaking the bank.

122

A N AT O M Y OF A DIS H Why pavlova is the perfect end to an antipodean holiday feast.

124

FOOD TRENDS The humble cheese toastie gets the gourmet treatment.

126

EXPERIENCE Stay in a Japanese ryokan and break from the modern pace.

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BALI

COOK ISLANDS

Three locals share their favourite ways to eat, sleep and play on the island paradise.

A warm welcome awaits in this remote idyll, perfect for families looking to escape.

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M Y P L A C E: U B U D An expat Melburnian shares her love for her adopted Bali home.

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GIFT GUIDE Our pick of the best presents for all ages this festive season.

the insider JE T S TA R N E W S, M AP S A N D EN T ER TA IN MEN T

104 KOCHI The Japanese city charms with the bounties of nature, including Buddhist pilgrimage trails, picturesque onsens and a range of seafood delights.

140 143 148 152 154 160

JE T S TA R N E W S EN T ER TA IN M EN T AIRPORT TO CITY W H E R E W E FLY GAMES + PUZZLES H I G H E R, B I G G E R, FA S T E R, L O N G E R

Cover photography

by Kohki Yamaguchi.

E DITOR I A L .

EDITORIAL INQUIRIES

EDITOR Jacqueline Lunn

SENIOR EDITORIAL COORDINATOR

DEPUTY EDITOR Sudeshna Ghosh

Anneliese Beard

CONTRIBUTORS.

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jon Gregory DESIGNER Lisa Emmanuel CHIEF SUBEDITOR Nick Hadley SUBEDITOR Deborah Grunfeld PHOTOGRAPHIC EDITOR Nicola Sevitt

Suite 58, 26-32 Pirrama Road, Pyrmont, NSW 2009 P (02) 8114 8944 E jetstar.editorial@mediumrarecontent.com

ACCOUNT MANAGER, TRAVEL

Samantha O’Brien

MANAGING EDITOR, JETSTAR Simon Tsang

A DVERT I S I N G .

HEAD OF SALES, TRAVEL AND LUXURY

VIC GROUP SALES MANAGER

Tony Trovato | (02) 8114 8920

Belinda Morton | (03) 9292 1159

NATIONAL ADVERTISING MANAGER

VIC ACCOUNT MANAGER

AND CLIENT PARTNER

Tim Beecroft | (03) 9292 2321

Anne Jacqueline Paul | (03) 9292 1817

VIC ACCOUNT MANAGER

DIGITAL SALES DIRECTOR

Brittany Groth | (03) 9292 3180

Mike Hanna | (02) 8114 7626

WA & SA STATE MANAGER

ADVERTISING SALES COORDINATOR

Gloria Karageorge | 0424 034 430

Madeline Payne | (02) 8114 8643

QLD & NT ACCOUNT MANAGER

NSW SALES MANAGER

Kasia Brzezicka | 0447 383 072

Tim Partridge | (02) 8114 6101

NEW ZEALAND BUSINESS

NSW ACCOUNT MANAGER

DEVELOPMENT MANAGER

Anthony Sullivan | (02) 8114 8954

Stuart Tovey | +64 21 711 606

VIC & QLD ADVERTISING DIRECTOR

Chris Joy | (03) 9292 3207

M EDIUM R A R E C O N T E N T A G E N C Y. MANAGING DIRECTOR Gerard Reynolds DIRECTOR Sally Wright CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Fiorella Di Santo HEAD OF CONTENT, TRAVEL AND LUXURY Kirsten Galliott DIGITAL DIRECTOR Karla Courtney MULTIMEDIA DIRECTOR Shannon O’Meara SOCIAL DIRECTOR Scott Drummond STRATEGY DIRECTOR Lyndsey Long FINANCE MANAGER Leslie To

Jetstar magazine is published monthly and is complimentary to domestic and international passengers. Published for Jetstar Airways

by Medium Rare Content Agency (ABN 83 169 879 921), Suite 58/2632 Pirrama Road, Pyrmont, NSW 2009. ©2019. All rights reserved.

Printed by Ovato Print Pty Ltd. Paper fibre is from sustainably managed forests and controlled sources. No responsibility is accepted for unsolicited material. Articles express the opinions of the authors and not necessarily those of Jetstar Airways or Medium Rare Content Agency. For a copy of Medium Rare Content Agency’s Privacy Policy, visit mediumrarecontent.com. ISSN 1443-2013.

We want you to know that at Jetstar our writers are not armchair travellers.

Any assistance we do accept from the travel industry to produce our stories does not compromise the integrity of our coverage.

For flight reservations jetstar.com For hotel bookings and holiday packages jetstar.com/hotels jetstar.com/holidays

NATALIE GRONO “I was intrigued to meet fellow wanderers and find out what experiences in my own backyard are visit worthy,” says local photojournalist Natalie (whose credits include Lonely Planet and The New York Times) of shooting our Byron Bay story (p. 64).

JENNY HEWETT Based between Bali and Sydney, Jenny has been a journalist for 13 years and written for the likes of Escape and Time Out. She may have spent half her life abroad but in this issue she reconnects with the Aussie coastline, one luxe step at a time (p. 74).

PAUL EWART A journalist for 17 years, British-born Paul relocated to Australia a decade ago and has fallen deeply in love with our beach lifestyle. This month, he steps back in time to experience a traditional Japanese ryokan (p. 126).

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CEO’S LE T T ER

Welcoming a new aircraft to the fleet > Thanks for choosing to fly with us – it’s great to have you on board.

Next year we will welcome a new aircraft that will lift the bar on passenger comfort for low-fares flying.

We recently unveiled the details and I want to share them with you here.

The longer range, more fuel efficient and quieter Jetstar A321neo LR (or NEO for short) has been designed with passenger comfort in mind.

We have selected the latest, awardwinning ergonomic seats as well as extra-large overhead bins with 40 per cent more space, providing customers with more room to stow bags overhead.

And in an Australian first for a lowfares airline we are introducing digital streaming, which means our customers can access our inflight entertainment on their own devices when they fly.

Our new app will feature new release movies, hit TV shows and games. We think it will be very popular with families – particularly on longer flights.

THE A321NEO LR AIRCRAFT (ARTIST’S IMPRESSION)

“NEX T YE AR W E W ILL W ELC O ME A NE W A IR CR AF T T H AT W ILL L IF T T HE BAR O N PASSENGER C O MFORT FOR LO W-FARES FLYING.”

To make watching Jetstar Entertainment more comfortable, each seat back comes with a flip-down cradle to hold a smartphone or tablet as well as a USB power port to keep devices charged.

But perhaps the aircraft’s most important feature is its engine. It has a 50 per cent quieter noise footprint and is 15 per cent more fuel efficient.

The NEOs can also directly fly further to destinations than our current singleaisle fleet and that capability, together with the aircraft’s fuel efficiencies, will help us keep our long-term commitment of offering you more low fares and reducing our environmental footprint.

We can’t wait to start flying this new fleet of aircraft and welcoming you on board.

I wish you a safe and happy holiday season and we look forward to seeing you soon.

G ARE T H E VA N S CEO, JE T S TA R G R O U P

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JE T S TAR S O CI AL

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017—050

the checklist > ALL THE TRAVEL INTEL YOU NEED NOW

ASIAN NEW YEARS PAG E

030 MEL B O U R NE

PA G E

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> In 1928, Australia’s first set of traffic lights were installed in the city, where Collins and Swanston Streets meet.

SE O UL

PA G E

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> The city’s Banpo Grand Bridge holds the Guinness World Record for lengthiest bridge fountain, at 1140 metres.

S O U T H AU ST R AL I A

PA G E

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> The driest state in the driest continent averages 2500 hours of sunshine a year and has 3700 kilometres of coastline.

P O S TC ARD FR O M

Collins St

MELBOURNE

—The classy boulevard and its chic surrounds at the heart of the Victorian capital’s CBD beat time to drums old and new, from the quaint and classic to the hip and out-there—

1 PAINT ‘N POWDER Tucked away in the Royal Arcade, you’re sure to find the perfect gift or keepsake at this French perfumery and boutique, home to an exclusive range of his and hers fragrances, scarves and candles. Once you’re done shopping, indulge in a little “me time” with a facial or manicure at the upstairs salon. paintandpowder.com.au

2 THE BLOCK ARCADE This ornate shopping centre has been a Melbourne hotspot since 1892. Stroll through its grandiose interior, admiring the mosaic-tile floor and glass canopy ceiling and check out the luxe brands that call the arcade home – think Georg Jensen, Haigh’s Chocolates and L’Occitane. theblock.com.au 3 HARVEY GALLERIES Not a fan of green eggs and ham? You will love this gallery dedicated to ‘The Art of Dr Seuss’ – a colourful, quirky space with Cat In The Hat light fixtures and bow tie-wearing staff. With limited edition artworks and sculptures available for purchase, it’s the perfect place to peruse all things Seussian. harveygalleries.com.au

4 HOPETOUN TEA ROOMS Soak up a bit of old-world charm while sipping on Earl Grey at this institution that offers traditional high tea complete with sandwiches, petits fours and fresh fruit. Bookings are essential for high tea but general dining is a first-come, first-served affair so make sure to set your alarm to beat the crowds (no, seriously; the Hopetoun queue is renowned for extending out onto the street) and feast on European classics such as croque monsieur and seafood pasta. hopetountearooms.com.au

5 LEICA STORE AND GALLERY Decked out with plush leather seats and housing a full range of Leica gear, this sleek store-meets-gallery is a photography enthusiast’s mecca.

Whether you are looking for a new camera or are after some tips and tricks, the highly knowledgeable and barista-trained staff – coffee is on the house – are at the ready to answer all of your photographyrelated questions, while the gallery space and collection of photographic books for sale are perfect for those in need of some creative inspiration. leica-store.com.au

6 GRAND HYATT Smack bang in the heart of Collins Street and within walking distance of many restaurants and boutiques, this landmark hotel is the perfect base for exploring the eclectic neighbourhood.

There are 550 chic guest rooms and suites on offer – opt for one with Yarra River views – plus a gym, spa and cool cocktails at the hotel’s bar, Ru-Co. hyatt.com 7 UNCLE Moreish Vietnamese cuisine is on the menu six days a week at this laidback restaurant at the ‘Paris end’ of Collins Street. Relax on a cane chair and indulge in lime-cured hapuku on betel leaf, beef pho and the Mekong Splice cocktail (it’s beyond good). unclerestaurants.com.au

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8 PRINCESS THEATRE If you’re a Potter nerd, run, don’t walk, to this historic venue to catch Harry Potter and the Cursed Child, which is showing until July 2020.

This magic-infused production – complete with the venue’s Hogwarts-like stained glass windows and Gryffindor-red upholstery – will have you laughing, crying and maybe even jumping in fright.

Tickets are selling out fast so make sure to secure yours ASAP. marrinergroup.com.au; harrypottertheplay.com

WORDS_ LISA EMMANUEL ILL U S T R AT IO N _ G ER G Ő GIL IC ZE

T H E C H ECKL IS T

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> Need to get ready for dinner in a snap? An easy way to glam up your look is to add a swipe of bold lipstick, says Michael. “Red, pink or even an orangey peach is so popular now,” he says. “And it’s great if you’re using just a bronzer because the bright lip won’t compete with the eye makeup.” Instead of simply applying the lippie straight from the tube, Michael suggests dabbing it on with your ring finger to create a stain. “It’s a great way to make it last longer and it doesn’t look as intense.” You can also use any leftover lippie on your fingers to add a little colour to the apples of your cheeks.

LIGHT UP > To play up that holiday glow, add a face oil and serum to your kit, says celebrity makeup artist Michael Brown. The serum can be mixed into foundation for lighter coverage, while you can use a face oil under makeup to create radiance. “The cheekbones are where dryness can be very obvious so if you just dab a bit of face oil around that area it looks really glowy,” Michael explains.

T R AVEL H ACK

Bright idea —Want Want to put your best face forward on holiday without all the fuss? A celebrity makeup glow artist shares his tips for on-the-go glow—

5

WORDS_ PENNY CARROLL

LOVE YO UR L ASHES > Black mascara is the ultimate finishing touch for your bronzed glow, says Michael. “It will contrast against the bronze tone and that’s what makes your eyes pop,” he notes. But he recommends steering away from waterproof formulas unless you’re actually going swimming. “They’re very dry, which means they flake easily and can smudge,” Michael says.

3 BE A BR O NZED BEAU T Y > The secret to hassle-free holiday makeup is a good bronzer, says Michael. “For me it’s the most important product to take because you can use it as an all-over face glow, it can be used for contouring, but you can also use it for eyeshadow,” he explains. The warm colour enhances all eye shades and it’s easy to apply: “Either use a bigger brush and do a wash of bronzer across the whole eyelid, or use a smaller, pinpointed brush and use it to really show off the socket area.” Because bronze is a neutral shade, it works with anything from a white tee to a colourful caftan, Michael adds.

GE T T HE GLO S S

4

> Heading to a festive event and need some shimmer and shine? Share your lipgloss with your eyelids. Michael says a light-coloured lipgloss with a bit of gold sparkle through it can double as eyeshadow. “It will dress your eyes. If you use the right lipgloss and it’s not too runny, it works beautifully.”

7 M Y T H S AB O U T...

Seoul

—With its gorgeous green spaces, dramatic mountains and grand palaces, there is much more to the South Korean capital than the worlds of tech and K-pop, says Leslie Moore—

MYTH #1 It’s an overcrowded city > The Seoul Capital Area, which includes Incheon and Gyeonggi-do, is home to a whopping 25.6 million people, making it one of the world’s biggest metropolitan areas.

However, the large number of tranquil green spaces and wide avenues give the city a peaceful vibe. Don’t believe us? Check out Hangang’s collection of parks stretching kilometres along the Han River, or World Cup Park, a sprawling retreat built on what was once a landfill.

MYTH #3 MYTH #2 The language barrier is extreme > Not only are all street and subway signs written in both the native Hangul and in English but most everyone from taxi drivers to street food hawkers speak English to some degree. A 24-hour tourist hotline – phone 1330 – is also available in myriad languages to assist visitors with everything from bus tickets to movie session times. english.visitkorea.or.kr

Seoul is a concrete jungle > You may be surprised to hear that mountains abound in and around the city, including the granite peaks of Bukhansan National Park.

There’s also Namsan Park, an urban mount at the top of which sits the iconic N Seoul Tower, reachable by foot or cable car.

A stroll along the 11 kilometre-long Cheonggyecheon Stream is also a highlight, with walking paths and a waterfall, set in the heart of downtown Seoul.

T H E C H ECKL IS T

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“YO U M AY BE SURPRISED TO HE AR

MYTH #4

T H AT M O U N TA INS AB O U N D IN A N D

It’s not safe > Since Seoul is only 56 kilometres south of the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), some people think the city is too close to North Korea for comfort. But there’s been no significant military action in decades and recent acts of diplomacy include a joint team in the 2018 Winter Olympics held in South Korea. In fact, the DMZ has even become a tourist attraction, with a train taking onlookers to the border from Seoul Station (letskorail. com). South Korea also has low crime rates – a heritage of Confucianism means locals treat others with respect.

MYTH #5 The only culture is K-pop > K-pop is a phenomenon beloved by international and local fans alike. What’s lesser known by outsiders is that Seoul is filled with a variety of other art forms, including robust film and TV industries (who hasn’t seen a melodramatic Korean drama?), a thriving fashion scene with biannual fashion weeks (seoulfashionweek.org), incredible architecture – see the neo-futuristic Dongdaemun Design Plaza built by Zaha Hadid – and galleries dedicated to both traditional and modern art.

AR O U N D T HE CI T Y.”

MYTH #6 It’s nonstop kimchi > Despite the fermented veg condiment being a staple, Seoul’s cuisine offers much more. The flourishing food scene includes traditional dishes, such as bibimbap (rice bowl), in addition to more than 30,000 KFC (that’s Korean Fried Chicken to the uninitiated) shops nationwide.

There are also restaurants proffering fare from around the world: the famed Michelin (guide. michelin.com) released a Seoul guide in 2017.

MYTH #7 There’s not much history > The capital possesses five grand palaces, including the main Joseon-era Gyeongbokgung Palace.

Dating back to 1395, this colourful complex offers a twice-daily changing of the guard ceremony complete with dramatic historical costumes and is also home to the National Folk Museum of Korea.

Other pockets of heritage include tranquil temples such as Bongeunsa and the renowned Bukchon Hanok Village, where you can even stay in a traditional Korean hanok house.

AND 3 TRUTHS Seoul is the world’s beauty capital > Some reports estimate one-in-three South Korean women aged 19-29 have had plastic surgery.

Medical tourism in Seoul is booming with more than 500 clinics in the Gangnam neighbourhood alone. Currently plastic surgery tax is refunded on departure but this may change in 2020.

It is technology savvy > Not only is it home to tech giants including Samsung and LG, internet speeds in the capital are around three times faster than the rest of the world.

Wi-Fi is free in the city’s public spaces, coffee shops, some taxis and even subways and city buses.

Taekwondo is from here > The origins of the martial art of Taekwondo (meaning ‘the way of the foot and fist’) date back more than 2000 years.

The form we know today was established in the 1950s by General Choi Hong Hi, who promoted the art to his troops. It became South Korea’s national sport in 1971.

S N APS H O T @VOL A N T US _ AUS TR AL IS

Lake Bumbunga The psychedelic bubblegum colours of this lake, located in Lochiel – less than two hours’ drive from Adelaide – change from pink to white to blue according to the salinity of the water.

Two sides of

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@A NDERS W OT ZKE

T H E C H ECKL IS T

South Australia

Rapid Bay This steeply descending road, on the Fleurieu Peninsula south of Adelaide, leads to an inlet famed for its jetties, dramatic shipwrecks and colourful marine life.

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How to stay safe at the beach

U NDERS TA ND T HE FL AG S Here are the most common surf lifesaving flags you’ll see at a patrolled beach in Australia.

> Always swim between the red and yellow flags. These are the most important flags on the beach and indicate the supervised area. If there are no red and yellow flags, you should not go swimming.

> Proceed with caution. If water conditions are unstable or there are potential hazards, you’ll see a yellow flag. Also look for the diamond-shaped yellow warning signs for more information before you enter the water.

How did you become a surf lifesaver? > It was a while back but one of the lifeguards I knew suggested I should try out. I was doing a lot of ocean racing and decided that becoming a lifeguard would suit my training and lifestyle.

What is the most common mistake people make at the beach? > A lot of people don’t know what a rip looks like and they enter the water right where one is.

What did you do before you decided to become a lifeguard? > I worked at radio station 2GB for four years. I was on the team calling NRL football games with [former NRL players] Greg Hartley and Peter Peters. I’d also go to the matches and interview the players.

What does a rip look like? > Most rips sit in-between sandbanks, so it is quite easy to see the deeper water channels between the whitewater on the sandbanks. The water is darker in colour. Most rips have feeder currents that run off the sandbanks along the beach until they flow into the main channel. The waves will not be breaking in these areas.

What do you love about working as a lifesaver at Bondi? > There’s a lot to love. I love the lifestyle and the amazing satisfaction when helping and saving people.

And I get to meet so many people from all over the world.

What are your top beach safety tips? > 1. Always swim between the flags and only swim at patrolled beaches.

2. If caught in a rip, float and stay calm. Go with the flow of the water.

3. Take a flotation device to the beach, such as a bodyboard.

> Evacuate the water immediately. If you see a red and white quartered flag, it means there is an emergency situation.

> Do not surf between the flags.

Black and white quartered flags are placed on either side of the red and yellow flags to indicate the surfcraft exclusion zone. If you are surfing, stay outside of the flagged swimming area.

> Do not enter the water.

A red flag indicates the beach is closed.

Check local conditions and lifesaving services at beachsafe. org.au. And if you’re ever unsure, ask a lifeguard for advice.

W O R D S _ K A I T LY N PA L M E R-A L L E N

—Professional lifeguard and Bondi Rescue star Bruce “Hoppo” Hopkins gives us his top tips on how to best enjoy Australia’s beautiful beaches—

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TR AVEL TREN D S

No longer is bagging the cheapest bed in town considered a hostel “win”. For today’s travellers, hostel stays are all about the experience.

A 2019 global study from Hostelworld (hostelworld.com) – the planet’s largest hostel booking platform – reported that the importance of innovative décor in choosing a hostel increased by 44 per cent among millennial travellers. The research also found that free activities were growing in importance, while demand for coworking spaces grew by 136 per cent among Australian travellers.

“Hostel travellers are increasingly looking for authentic experiences as well as serendipitous opportunities to connect with in-the-know locals,” says Cathy Thomson, Head of Customer Experience at Hostelworld.

“The range of features, amenities and experiences offered by modern hostels cater to much higher guest expectations of quality and comfort than ever before.”

From ’grammable design to experiential offerings, flexi-working facilities for digital nomads to clever eco-friendly initiatives, next-gen hostels are stepping up. Here are six of the coolest ones you need to check out (err… check in to).

Hip hostels —Once home to bunk beds and shared bathrooms, today’s hostels are much more than a budget place to crash, finds Sarah Reid.

Fancy a night in a converted jail or a spot of morning yoga? Drop your backpack here—

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T HE P OD @BEAC H R OAD

T H E C H ECKL IS T

THE YARD

BANGKOK

> Built from recycled shipping containers and insulated with recycled paper, this eco-conscious hostel in the buzzy Ari neighbourhood has three restaurants and offers luggage storage for up to two months. Their admirable sustainability initiatives include free bikes, reusable water bottle loans and supporting a community forest project. theyardhostel.com

LUB D SIEM REAP > Asian hostel chain Lub d’s Cambodian outpost comes complete with co-working space, chill-out area, pool with swim-up bar, laundry room and a café-restaurant. Top bunks are easily accessed by stairs rather than wobbly ladders and Lub d is just a short walk from Pub Street. lubd.com/siemreap P URI GARDEN

THE POD@BEACH ROAD

SINGAPORE

FREMANTLE PRISON YHA

> On the fringe of Singapore’s CBD, this slick capsule hostel will ease you into communal living with 300 thread-count sheets and free breakfast and laundry. There are also couples pods, private singles and a dedicated ladies floor. thepodcapsulehotel.com

WESTERN AUSTRALIA

> This unusual accommodation near Perth lets you sleep in a converted cell in a former convict prison. You can also combine your stay with a tour of the heritage-listed building – which operated as a jail up until 1991 – and a ferry ride to nearby Rottnest Island to snag a #quokkaselfie. yha.com.au

TRAIN HOSTEL HOKUTOSEI

TOKYO

FREM A N TLE PRIS O N Y H A

> Inspired by the now-defunct Hokutosei sleeper train which used to shuttle travellers between Tokyo and Sapporo, this quirky hostel emulates real train accommodation with fittings from the locomotive spread throughout the hostel.

Appropriately it is attached to a train station (Bakurochō) for easy access to Tokyo. global.trainhostelhokutosei.com

PURI GARDEN BALI > For a uniquely Balinese experience, it’s difficult to beat this recently renovated Ubud hostel. From your plush dorm bed, head straight to the tropical garden for free yoga before breakfast and a lazy afternoon swinging in a hammock by the pool.

Don’t miss the weekly traditional dance shows. purigardenhotel.com

y p p a H new ! r a ye

S N APS H O T

—Not every calendar circles January 1. Asia has many ways to measure the year and ring it in. Erin Craig showcases the New Year parties you can enjoy beyond December 31—

Singapore SINGAPORE C H I N G AY PA R A D E JA N 31–FEB 1

> The Chingay Parade is pageantry on an epic scale, with more than 5000 performers, elaborate floats and pyrotechnics. Originally a Chinese religious procession, Chingay was conceived in February 1973 after a 1972 fireworks ban that threatened to completely dampen the spectacle of Lunar New Year.

Almost 50 years later it’s one of the largest parades in Asia; a two-night celebration of Singapore and the cultures that comprise it. Lavish musical numbers highlight the city’s diversity as the sky explodes in (happily enough) fireworks.

T H E C H ECKL IS T

China C HINE S E NE W Y E A R

JA N 25

> A 2000-year-old tradition, the dragon dance is iconic to Chinese Lunar New Year along with stilt walking and lion dances. The dragon, which can range in length from that of a baseball bat to a soccer field, is often red (auspicious) and puppeteered by an odd number of performers (also auspicious) to scare bad luck away.

Thailand SONGKRAN WAT E R F E S T I VA L APR 13-15

> A Buddhist cleansing ritual that got way out of hand, the Songkran New Year festival is a country-wide water fight. The party begins midmorning out of respect to temple goers; after that everyone’s a target. Trade your camera for a squirt gun and join the fun.

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H APPY NE W YE AR

Indonesia NYEPI

M A R 25-26

> Canon fire, percussion music and monstrous, burning effigies – the night before Nyepi is anything but restful. But after a cacophonous eve to chase off evil spirits, Bali’s New Year dawns with silence. The entire island unplugs for a day of meditation. No work, no play, just spiritual recalibration for the year ahead.

Vietnam T E T F E S T I VA L

JA N 25

> Red and yellow are lucky colours at Tet, and the temples are awash with them. Votive offerings of flowers and incense are made during the first three days of the New Year. It’s also your opportunity to try bánh chưng, a porkstuffed rice cake that takes two days to prepare.

Myanmar T H I N G YA N

APR 13-16

> April is the hottest month in Myanmar and this New Year’s festival couldn’t come at a better time. People turn hoses on bystanders, pitch bucketfuls of water at traffic and even spray passengers through train windows.

Among the DJ-fuelled stages and family-friendly pedestrian zones are holiday street stands called sadudithas that feed all comers for free. The Thingyan specialty is mont lone yay baw, a sweet, coconut-dusted dumpling.

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H APPY NE W YE AR

Cambodia KHMER NEW YEAR APR 14-16

> Khmer New Year is a time of reflection and charity but it’s also a time to play – and not just for kids. Cambodians of all ages gather at temples and village squares for outdoor games.

Clay pots of prizes are smashed piñata-style and traditional team games such as bos angkunh (think bocce ball with fruit nuts) and chab kon kleng (tag meets chickens) are played. The game involves one person acting like a hen and another like a crow. The crow has to try and catch the chicks (other people) protected by the hen.

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T H E C H ECKL IS T

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S M AR TER W ORK IN G

Workplace of the future —In each issue, we explore a new trend in the 21st century world of business. This month we look at the offices of tomorrow— Will the office of the future have doppelganger robots doing our jobs while we take home the pay? Fingers crossed. Failing that, we do know that we’ll soon have five generations working under the same roof and employers will have to try harder to attract and retain them. According to Bryan Froud, Workplace Strategy Director at global real estate services provider consultants JLL (jll.com.au), tomorrow’s office will be a place where you leave feeling more fulfilled than when you arrived. Natural light, sustainability, wellbeing and flexibility will all be key. “We’re likely to see fewer desks, more green space and an emphasis on social causes,” Bryan says. For some offices, the future is now.

Co-working and serviced offices group @Workspaces recently introduced standing desks, exercise mats, balance balls and mini exercise bikes to their Queensland office and have plans to roll them out nationwide.

ILL U S T R AT IO N _ N IK I F IS H ER

N E X T- G E N M E E T I N G S Anyone who’s ever sat through a pointless “catch up” meeting will know what a frustrating time-suck they can be. JLL’s Bryan Froud predicts that in the future, agile project management tools will be more widely adopted so everyone can keep track of tasks without drumming their fingers on a boardroom table. “Rather than spending hours talking about where people are up to or what they’re doing, you’ll only meet when you’re stuck or need help,” he says.

“And then, when a task is finished, you’ll meet to celebrate.”

I S T H I S A U S T R A L I A’ S M O S T FUTURE-FOCUSED OFFICE? The Sydney offices of graphic design group Canva (canva.com) are kitted out with so many personal touches that make their employees’ lives happier and easier, it’s a wonder they don’t move in. Each day, fulltime chefs prepare breakfast and lunch for staff, featuring fresh ingredients from the company’s sustainable farm. Employees have access to an in-house gym and rooftop yoga, and during birthdays, they spin the “birthday wheel” which could net them a wine and cheese hamper or Gelato Messina vouchers.

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S M AR T ER W O RK IN G

IN TERV IE W

N A ME L IS A A N D RE W S AG E 37 O C C U PAT IO N C O-CEO OF LE A R NIN G A N D IN N O VAT IO N C O M M U NI T Y, SIN G UL A R I T Y U A U S T R AL I A. L O C AT IO N L IS A IS J U S T A S AT H O M E IN T H E OFFICE A S S H E IS IN A C AFÉ W I T H H ER T W O L AP T O P S.

L IS A A N D RE W S’ T O P T IP S F O R PR OFES SIO N AL A N D PER S O N AL F ULFIL M EN T 1. Figure out the best way you can help people have better lives and opportunities.

2. Have an amazing team and business partner who complement rather than replicate your skills. Diversity is not just a buzzword.

3. Find a mentor, someone who shares your ideologies but will push your belief systems and boundaries.

W O R D S _ A L E X A N D R A C A R LT O N

> How did you get to where you are today? I became an accountant because I wanted to help ease financial suffering for people. I met my business partner, Christina Gerakiteys, a few years ago and we discovered we had a shared passion for creating positive change and impact. SingularityUniversity’s Global Grand Challenges [there are 12, which include sustainable energy, water sanitation and disaster resilience] aligned with our core beliefs.

We truly believe there isn’t a problem we can’t solve if we all get together and work collaboratively for a cause. > Can you give us an example of how the business works?

SingularityU tackles the world’s biggest problems to build a better future. One way is by giving new opportunities to start-ups. For example in 2019, The University of Western Australia’s Marine Futures Lab won our Global Impact Challenge for their idea about using technology to tackle fishery declines. They will be linked with mentors, investors and innovators globally. > If you could solve one of the world’s problems overnight what would it be? Clean water. Around 750 million people around the world don’t have it and in developing countries 80 per cent of illnesses can be attributed to poor water and poor sanitation. If we came up with a solution, kids would be able to spend more days at school. Imagine where that additional learning might lead a child. > What does your morning routine look like? I try to have a slow start to the day; I’m really not a morning person! Ideally I like to meditate, go for a walk, drink a cup of tea, check my schedule for the day, start with important phone calls and then head into meetings and appointments. > How do you unwind? I was introduced to kitesurfing 18 months ago. I love being outside and on the water. If I’m not kitesurfing it’s singing anything from The Greatest Showman with my business partner.

“Hey Google, show me my photos of Bali.”

Google Nest Hub

Requires Wi-Fi, Google Photos account and compatible device.

BROUGHT TO YOU BY JETSTAR CAR HIRE AND HERTZ

Make your holiday go further...

HOW ADD A WEEKEND ROAD TRIP WHERE GOLD COAST HINTERLAND WHY TO DISCOVER A DIFFERENT SIDE TO THIS SUN AND SAND DESTINATION YOU’LL FIND LUSH GREEN RAINFORESTS, QUAINT COUNTRY TOWNS AND LOCAL SECRETS TOTAL DRIVING DISTANCE 105KM

HICKORY

MOUNT TA M B O R I N E

MUDGEERABA

> Laid-back Coolangatta is the gateway to the classic

holiday heaven of the Gold Coast but it’s also the perfect place to start your hinterland explorations. The unspoilt Gondwana Rainforests, mountain ranges and national parks are teeming with wildlife and jaw-dropping natural beauty. Begin by heading north on the M1 highway to the historic town of Mudgeeraba, calling in to the industrial-chic Jekyll and Hyde Coffee Lab (193 Gemvale Road, Mudgeeraba, 07 5525 3344) for a flat white brewed with Toby’s Estate beans and maybe a cheeky slice of homemade blueberry and lemon curd loaf for the road.

From there, take the Nerang Murwillumbah Road and Henri Robert Drive further west into the heart of the Scenic Rim. Witches Falls National Park on Mount Tamborine is the third-oldest national park in the world and the three-kilometre return trip from the car park through the rainforest to the waterfalls is an easy way to stretch your legs; keep an eye out for pademelons and lyrebirds. If that’s worked up an appetite, lunch has to be a full rack of ribs at American-style barbecue joint Hickory (hickoryslow.com.au) or, for something a little daintier, try the high tea at Tea and Niceties (teaandniceties.com.au).

TEA AND NICETIES

LAMINGTON N AT I O N A L PA R K

C O O L A N G AT TA

O’R E I L LY’S R A I N F O R E S T R E T R E AT

Then it’s a drive back south to the Gondwana Rainforest of Lamington National Park for a stay at O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat (oreillys.com.au). End on an indulgent note at the spa with a Vinotherapy Ritual, which includes a body mask of clay and red grapes.

The Gold Coast hinterland is a feast for the senses and there’s no better way to experience it than on a road trip.

Check out the great range of Hertz cars and deals available at JETSTAR.COM/CARHIRE or present your Jetstar boarding pass at the Hertz counter to receive 10% off today’s rates.

Car rental is offered by Hertz Group via Car Trawler. Jetstar doesn’t offer car rental directly.

For full terms and conditions please visit jetstar.com/au/en/holidays-booking-conditions.

T H E C H ECKL IS T

TEC H N OL O GY

Update —Gear, apps, tech talk and more—

GoPro HERO8 Black

$ 59 9

> The newest addition to the GoPro family comes with a host of features that improve both video and photos.

Automatic frame rate adjustment, Auto Horizon Levelling and improved image stabilisation help videos remain level and buttery smooth across all resolutions. Switch to still photos for a greater range of light from shadows, thanks to advanced AI-enabled image processing. gopro.com

Nokia 2720 Flip

$1 4 9

> Get your ‘90s on with this old-school flip phone that’s made a comeback. Durable and strong, with a whopping 28-days standby battery time, it has big buttons and big text making it suitable for everyone. Google Assistant powered voice control offers basic functions and there’s also an emergency button to automatically reach contacts should you need assistance. nokia.com/phones

WORDS_ MARK GAMBINO

Nintendo Switch Lite

$ 329.95

> Go for your Mario Kart PB anywhere, anytime with this lightweight handheld console.

Featuring built-in dual controls, a 5.5-inch hi-res screen and up to seven hours gameplay, this sibling to the Switch supports all Nintendo Switch games that have handheld play. You can also connect to other Switch consoles locally or challenge friends in multiplayer mode. nintendo.com.au

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T EC H N OL O GY

M UST-HAVE

APPS

B U YERS’ G UIDE

Smart home cameras > In an increasingly connected world, you can now use smart devices to be your eyes and ears when you’re away from home.

Working with your home internet network, these IoT (Internet of Things) gadgets can be accessed and controlled anywhere in the world from a smartphone or tablet.

Decide what areas of your home you want to monitor, how you want to achieve it – live video, audio detection, smoke detection for example – and what for (security, to chat to your kids or just to keep an eye on pets?), then buy accordingly, as features vary. Check also if the device will work with your preferred digital assistant such as Google Assistant or Siri.

Most smart home cameras come with a wide-angle lens and night vision is also common. There are also cameras specifically for pet monitoring that you place closer to the ground so you can chat to Fido or call your cat – no guarantee they will actually come!

PayK

3 to try... #1 GOOGLE

NEST HUB MA X $349 Manage Google services including messaging, calendar and calls with this Google Assistant smart display.

The wide-angle camera and 10-inch HD screen are great for video calls as well as monitoring your home. store.google.com

#2 CONNECT 360 PAN & TILT CAMERA $129 Receive motion alerts direct to your smartphone and take control of this 360-degree HD camera to see into every corner of the room. You can also connect to Google Assistant or Amazon Alexa for manual control. www.connectsmarthome.com.au #3 FURBO DOG CAMERA $359 Keep in contact with your furry friend with this smart camera and feeder combo that lets you chat with them over the two-way audio speaker as you hand out a dog treat. Now, sit! shopau.furbo.com

Is it a bird, is it a plane? > … No, it’s probably your taxi ride. The rapid development of VTOL (Vertical Take-Off and Landing) technology means car manufacturers around the world are currently developing short distance electric-powered flying vehicles that will cut down travel time dramatically. Using AI software, they will be able to manoeuvre easily without needing a runway and are expected to be able to make trips of 160 to 300 kilometres.

Luxury carmaker Porsche is working on a concept with Boeing while Japanese electronics giant NEC recently conducted a successful test of a ‘flying car’. The first cab off the rank – pun intended – will be rideshare company Uber, who recently announced Uber Air will be available starting 2023. The first cities to launch will be Dallas and LA, with our very own Melbourne announced as the first non-US city.

FREE

IO S + A N DR OID You know that awkward moment when you have to ask your friend to pay you back for the tickets or dinner you paid for upfront?

Again? This app lets you create groups in which people can split costs with in-app money transfers (which can be transferred to bank accounts or kept in the app wallet) and also follows up on any pending payments.

PackPoint

FREE

IO S + A N DR OID Never forget that all-important dress shoe again! Whether travelling for business or pleasure, this handy travel app generates packing lists from a master list of activities – from running, snow sports and photography to business meetings, camping and fancy dinners. Using your destination and trip duration details, the app also checks weather forecasts to suggest appropriate clothing options.

P66 Tactical Mission Inspired by traser‘s first watch, THE ORIGINAL from 1989, the P66 family keeps the tactical spirit alive. Created according to the strict MIL-G specifications of the US Army, this unbreakable equipment outlives every mission.

Its hard stainless steel core, covered by a resistant glass-fibre polymer outer case, turns the watch into an indispensable instrument for extreme situations.

Model: P66 H3 Green Spirit

All these elements, in combination with the self-powered illumination trigalightÂŽ, assure constant readability of the time in all circumstances, under the toughest conditions and in the harshest environments. #extrememission

Buy online at

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T H E C H ECKL IS T

T R AVEL NE W S

In the know —The latest buzz on where to play, stay and holiday—

A R T IN S TALL AT IO N

Lighting the way Bruce Munro has done it again – after the stellar success of Field of Light at Uluru, he has just unveiled Tropical Light, an emotive series of eight illuminated installations dotted around Darwin. Inspired by his time in the NT, Bruce says these visual anecdotes were a year in the making. Download the audio app to guide yourself along the 2.5 kilometre trail, which takes you through the immersive pieces – the free exhibition is on until April 30, 2020. There’s never been a better time to visit Darwin! tropicallight.com.au

N E W H O T EL

W O R D S _ D E B O R A H G R U N F E L D, J O M c K AY

Puttin’ on the Ritz Marking the return of the luxury hotel chain into Australia, the new Ritz-Carlton Perth is the hottest hotel opening for the WA capital.

10,000 pieces of hand-picked Kimberley sandstone used in the design give the property a unique sense of place. Located at Elizabeth Quay, the hotel has 205 rooms and suites, a heated outdoor infinity pool and signature restaurant Hearth – where the central focus is an open flame which will contribute in some way to each dish.

Rooftop bar Songbird has spectacular views of sunsets over the Swan River and a curated cocktail list. Now that’s ritzy! ritzcarlton.com/perth

A NIM AT ED AC T IO N

Seas of change Beloved cartoon character SpongeBob is the (unlikely) new hero of ocean conservation. Nickelodeon Australia has partnered with not-for-profit Citizens of the Great Barrier Reef to create Junior Citizens of the Reef, a program featuring an interactive website where SpongeBob educates kids on how small changes – such as saying no to plastic and cycling to school – can make a big difference. nick.com.au/reefsquad

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T R AVEL NE W S

T HIS J U S T IN

Get it while it’s hot

Wild! Where to get your cute-fix of baby animals —’Tis the season – of fresh hatchlings. Here are some of the best places to see young ones in their natural habitats. You’re welcome!—

01.

02.

03.

04.

> SEAL BAY KANGAROO ISLAND, SA

> UNZOO TARANNA, TAS

> DOLPHIN SANCTUARY ADELAIDE, SA

> THE SETTLEMENT ROTTNEST ISLAND, WA

No cages, no enclosures, just up close with endangered Australian sea lion pups in their habitat as they frolic, feed and look adorable! sealbay.sa.gov.au

Normally Unzoo is all about Tassie devils, but at this time of year, wild bub pademelons poke their heads out of pouches and take their first bounds. tasmaniandevilunzoo.com.au

Summertime is calving season so head to Garden Island’s boardwalk or try a kayak or a cruise on the Explorer for a chance to see a calf. parks.sa.gov.au

What’s more adorbs than a quokka? A juvenile quokka!

Half the size of mum, they start to venture out in December. rottnestisland.com

> New Adelaide restaurant Joybird is all about the pleasures of an old-school chicken shop, reimagined in a modern way. You can order a hot chicken roll or fried chicken tenders (done with contemporary panache) but it’s incarnations such as the Firebird, a wood-fired chicken doused in Korean fire sauce, that takes things up a notch. There are vego options too, plus cocktails and wines. joybird.com.au

Tree-wise men > Heading out on a family holiday this Christmas? You don’t have to make do with baubles on a gumtree branch – Floraly’s real baby trees are a Christmas miracle. The guilt-free tiny trees are sent in the post in eco-packaging, complete with decorations and the roots intact – so you can re-gift the earth by planting them post-festivity and even reuse next year. floraly.com.au

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T HE C HECKL IS T

C ALEN DAR

EVENT

SYDNEY

DECEMBER NO MATTER WHERE YOU ARE THIS MONTH, THERE’S PLENTY TO ENJOY...

CULTURE

WOODFORD Woodford Folk Festival 27.12.19-01.01.20

Ring in the New Year with some 2000 performers in Queensland’s Sunshine Coast hinterland and immerse yourself in the creative arts, from concerts to comedy. woodfordfolkfestival.com MUSIC

BRISBANE

Falls Festival

Liam Gallagher tour

28-31.12.19

Your favourite local and OS musicians – including US singer-songwriter Halsey – will help you round out 2019 at this cool gig that’s been going for 27 years. fallsfestival.com

06.12.19

Amy Heycock

LORNE

FESTIVAL

The former Oasis lead singer launches the Australian leg of his world tour, supporting his second solo album, Why Me? Why Not. liamgallagher.com/tour

MOTOR RACING

ADEL AIDE Sydney Hobart Yacht Race 26.12.19

Whether on shore or sea, don’t miss the yachts – and crew – setting sail out of Sydney’s heads this Boxing Day. rolexsydneyhobart.com

Adelaide Rally

T H E RE’S A D AY F O R T H AT ?!

04-07.12.19

Calling all revheads: get your adrenaline fix as modern and classic cars zoom across hills, dales and hairpin bends. adelaiderally.com.au

International Ninja Day 05.12.19

FOOD

HOBART The Taste of Tasmania 28.12.12-03.01.20

From sea urchin dumplings to apple pies and local batch gin, this is a serious – and delicious – food and wine festival. thetasteoftasmania.com.au CIRCUS

CANBERRA Cirque Stratosphere

International Civil Aviation Day 07.12.19

International Mountain Day 11.12.19

10-21.12.19

SYDNEY

CHRISTMAS

Before they head to Sydney and Melbourne, this troupe of talented acrobats and gymnasts will put on their gravity-defying show in the nation’s capital. canberratheatrecentre.com.au

16.12.19

American Express OpenAir Cinemas UNTIL 20.12.19

St Kilda is just one of many venues around the country where you can enjoy a relaxing evening under the stars watching new release movies or Christmas classics. openaircinemas.com.au

Carols in the Domain 21.12.19

Sing and dance along with the stars at Australia’s biggest Christmas concert. PS Don’t forget your reindeer antlers! carolsinthedomain.com

Chocolate Covered Anything Day

MOVIES

MELBOURNE

Adv)r))))))))

LAY DOWN THE LAW TO THE IN-LAWS

@c)a))))r)c))c)

D)))))))r)))))))))))Scr))))))))y))r)br))d)b)ca))))w))a)))k))w)))ay))))w))))y))r)))-)aw))ca))b))a)))))))))).)

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If you’re sitting on the plane reading this and dreading the thought of staying with your family, I’ve got a suggestion, don’t.

By Michelle Fifi

Don’t crack it with your family before you pop your Christmas crackers. I recommend not staying with your in-laws this Christmas, but instead, putting them (or you) up. Up, up and away! Here are some amazing places to escape the in-laws...

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051—108

the traveller > WHERE TO GO NEXT

D E S T I N AT I O N N E X T PAG E

052 M AR G ARE T R I VER

PA G E

074

> In the south-west tip of the country, Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse is Australia’s tallest mainland lighthouse.

BAL I

PA G E

0 81

> Indonesia is the world’s second largest producer of seafood, being home to more than 3000 species of fish.

KO C HI

PA G E

10 4

> Katsurahama pays homage to Kōchi’s famous samurai Sakamoto Ryoma with a 13.5-metre high statue.

A DV E N T URE

where to go in

2

W E L L NE S S

DRE A M

F O O D +DRINK

FA MILY

053

2 —Up-and-coming destinations, secret spots and fresh new takes on beloved cities, these are the trending places to visit next year.

However you want to holiday, Sarah Reid has you covered—

W H ERE T O G O IN 2020

DESARU COAS T

PERTH

AUSTRALIA > If there’s one culture spot you visit in 2020, make it the New Museum for Western Australia.

A $428 million project, the striking museum in the heart of the Perth Cultural Centre will feature nearly 6000 square metres of galleries.

Designed to share the stories of people and place, with lots of interactive fun for kids, it’s set to become a must visit on a family trip to WA. Together with a whole host of new hotels and restaurants opening in recent months, the WA capital is coming into its own. museum.wa.gov.au/new-museum

@saltywings (previous page)

T O K YO

JAPAN > The 32nd Summer Olympic Games kick off in Japan’s capital in July, with new events for 2020 including surfing and skateboarding – along with a Japanese national favourite, karate – making it an event kids are bound to love. Even if you don’t snag tickets, city-wide “Live Sites” will offer spectators the chance to watch the Games in real time on giant screens. From April to September, you can also deepdive into Japanese culture at the Tokyo 2020 Nippon Festival. tokyo2020.org

FAMILY

M A L AY S I A > Less than two hours drive from Singapore (or about four hours from Kuala Lumpur), the Desaru beach resort area in Johor has been undergoing major development to emerge as the ultimate family destination. The new integrated resort is not only home to the Adventure Waterpark, hosting one of the biggest wave pools in the world, but is also seeing a slew of new luxury hotel openings – including the Anantara Desaru Coast Resort & Villas, which is set to welcome guests this month, and in 2020, the One&Only Desaru Coast. Plus, there’s two Ernie Els-designed golf courses and dining and shopping options at the Riverside complex – all nestled along 17 kilometres of coast facing the South China Sea. desarucoast.com

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W HERE T O G O IN 2020

PA PA R O A T R A C K

ADVENTURE

056

NZ > Winding through the stunning alpine meadows, dramatic limestone karst landscapes and lush rainforests of the South Island’s Paparoa Range, New Zealand’s 10th Great Walk opens this month, making it this summer’s hottest new hike. The 55km Paparoa Track is designed to be tackled on foot over three days, though you can also mountain bike the trail, a threeand-a-half-hour drive northwest of Christchurch, in two. doc.govt.nz

RUSUTSU

JAPAN > So you’ve been there in Sapporo and done that in Niseko? This is Japan’s next big ski destination.

About 30 minutes’ drive from Niseko, the Hokkaido island resort – known for its excellent off-piste terrain – has been busy modernising its facilities, including launching a heli-skiing operation. What’s more, Rusutsu Resort has just opened a luxurious new public-access onsen, perfect for an après-ski soak. hokkaido-rusutsu.com

CORAL COAST

FIJI > Fiji offers some of the best snorkelling and scuba diving in the Pacific and you can now make your underwater adventures count by signing up for a spot of coral gardening – the process of growing young corals in a protected nursery – while you’re at it. More than half-a-dozen resorts (and counting) across the country now offer coral gardening lessons and the opportunity to plant a piece of coral yourself. On the main island Viti Levu’s Coral Coast, get in on the action at the likes of the Outrigger Fiji Beach Resort (outrigger.com) and the Intercontinental Fiji Golf Resort & Spa (fiji.intercontinental.com).

P R O U D LY P R E S E N T E D BY C E N T R A L COA S T CO U N C I L

28 MARCH - 5 APRIL 2020 8 FEBRUARY 2020 Explore hidden gems and discover forgotten lane ways at Love Lanes Festival which is back for its 4th year!

Live Well Festival is a celebration of the lifestyle on offer to us all on the Central Coast, and will bring business and community together by focusing on all aspects of healthy living, nutrition, food, wellness and happiness.

F O R M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N V I S I T W W W. C E N T R A LCOA S T. N S W. G O V. AU / W H AT S - O N

WELLNESS

W H ERE T O G O IN 2020

059

SEOUL

SOUTH KORE A > Learn the art of mindfulness from masters of the craft – we’re talking about Korean Buddhist monks.

Thanks to the Templestay program, you can get a taste of their daily ritual by spending the night at one of more than 30 monasteries around the country (including seven in Seoul). Get ready to chant, meditate, dine and sip tea alongside resident monks. Not only will you gain a rare insight into Korean Buddhism, the experience might even change your perspective on life. templestay.com

L O MB O K

INDONESIA > Bali might be Indonesia’s wellness HQ, but neighbouring Lombok is fast emerging as a chill-out base among travellers looking for a less crowded alternative. Taking bookings from March 2020, ultra-luxe The Legian Sire (lhm-hotels.com) is due to open on the palm-fringed beaches of north Lombok lorded over by Mount Rinjani. A 15-minute boat ride away on Gili Meno, you’ll be able to indulge in rooftop yoga at Bask villa resort (baskgilimeno.com) when it opens in 2020, while serious yogis should check out the new Flowers & Fire Yoga Garden resort (flowersandfire. yoga) on nearby Gili Air island.

WA IK IK I

H AWA II > You might go to this beach hotspot for the trendy buzz but stay for the immersive new wellness offerings.

Whether it’s the Plant Your Intentions package incorporating astrology and “dreamboarding” (creating a visual representation of aspirations for the coming year) at Alohilani Resort Waikiki Beach (alohilaniresort.com) or the Well-Rested program promoting better sleep at RitzCarlton Residences Waikiki Beach (ritzcarlton.com), Hawaii is taking wellness to the next level. Nowhere more so than at new wellbeingfocused boutique hotel Renew (hotelrenew.com) – which offers a wellness concierge, “Hawaiian Healing” yoga and traditional wellbeing activities. You’ll never settle for a standard lomi lomi massage again.

W HERE T O G O IN 2020

WA I TA K I

NZ > Still something of a secret even in New Zealand, the South Island’s Waitaki Wine Region, just north of the famed Central Otago area, has been quietly making some of the nation’s best drops. Find out what the fuss is about by signing up for a cellar door tour with Waitaki Wine Tours (waitakiwinetours.oamaru. net.nz). Or plan your own road trip, being sure to stop in at River-T Estate Wines (rivertestate.co.nz), which has the largest selection of Waitaki Valley wine in the world, to pick up a few bottles of superb pinot noir – the region’s signature drop.

T HE T W E E D

FOOD+DRINK

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AUSTRALIA > With a brand-new rum and gin distillery (huskdistillers.com), a fantastic new farm gate café (farmandco.com.au) and top chefs moving here in droves (including Matt Kemp, who heads up local restaurant Osteria Casuarina; osteriacasuarina. com.au), the Tweed Valley is Australia’s food destination du jour. With murmurs of more developments in 2020, it’s the perfect time to taste your way around the region (be sure to schedule lunch at Byron Bay chef Ben Devlin’s Pipit restaurant in Pottsville; pipitrestaurant.com) while it’s still blissfully sleepy. visitthetweed.com.au

YA N G O N

M YA N M A R > One of Asia’s most underrated cuisines, the food of Myanmar is finally having its moment. With many of downtown Yangon’s crumbling heritage buildings now being transformed into hip cafés, bars and restaurants, the city is positioning itself to become Southeast Asia’s next culinary capital. Start the day with a great coffee (and perhaps a bowl of fish soup known as mohinga, a classic Myanmar breakfast staple) at Rangoon Tea House (fb.me/ rangoonteahouse) and stop into revived heritage hotel The Strand (hotelthestrand.com) for a happy hour cocktail before tucking into fine Japanese cuisine at Gekko (gekkoyangon.com). Unexpected?

Yes. Delicious? Most definitely!

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T HE W HERE T RT AVELLER O G O IN 2020

REEFSUITES W H I T S U N D AY S , A U S T R A L I A > Consider yourself a water baby?

Then you’ll love the just-opened Reefsuites, Australia’s first underwater hotel. The two suites at the revamped Reefworld pontoon, moored 40 nautical miles from the Whitsunday coast, offer a front-row seat to the Great Barrier Reef goings-on (there’s even a window in the loo so you can spot turtles while you brush your teeth). Combine with a stay at one of the recently reopened Whitsundays resorts for the ultimate island escape. cruisewhitsundays.com

E A S T NU S A T E N G G A R A INDONESIA

U L UR U

DRE AM

> If you’re keen to eyeball Indonesia’s famous dragons without contributing to over-tourism (there is a newly imposed US$1000 fee to visit Komodo Island), book a luxury liveaboard trip. Abercrombie & Kent’s new Hidden Indonesia: Bali to Komodo itinerary, which visits lizardwatching spots beyond Komodo as well as some of the region’s best secluded beaches and dive sites (abercrombiekent.com.au) is one of the best in the business, but there are other luxury options too.

Carly Brown

AUSTRALIA > With climbing Australia’s most famous monolith happily now banned, this is the time to appreciate Uluru in its natural glory. Learn about its significance to the Anangu, its traditional owners, on the free daily Mala walk and sip sparkling wine as sun sets over Uluru following a cultural tour with SEIT Outback Australia (seitoutbackaustralia.com. au). Plus, British artist Bruce Munro’s epic Field of Light installation has been extended indefinitely.

While Sails in the Desert hotel (ayresrockresort.com.au) is scheduled for a facelift in 2020, to truly splash out in style, book in at the luxurious Longitude 131 (baillielodges.com.au).

Welcome to Australia’s largest Immersive ‘Trick Art’ Gallery!

ArtVo is an interactive 3D art gallery or otherwise known as a Trick Art museum – the first of it’s kind in Australia, the Southern Hemisphere.

As opposed to normal art museums, visitors are encouraged to touch and interact with the artwork, photographing themselves and becoming part of the art.

A Image from ArtVo Illusions, Gold Coast

world of optical illusions, the artworks are large scale and hand painted directly onto the walls and floors; with additional sculptural elements added to allow visitors to immerse themselves into different themed zones, scenes, locations and famous paintings, including a glow in the dark experience room in Gold Coast.

Special offer Receive a 20% discount when purchasing your tickets online or at our front desk by using Promo code JETSTAR20 - Only throughout the month of December 2019

ArtVo Illusions Gold Coast

Ground Floor Robina Town Centre, Robina, Queensland (07) 5639 6109 info@artvoillusions.com.au www.facebook.com/artvoillusions @artvoillusions

Artvo is fun, and if you’re planning a visit don’t forget to charge your phone and bring an extra battery for your camera, you’re going to need it. It is a self-guided gallery suitable for all ages, groups small or large. Allow plenty of time, as there are over 80 paintings allowing for 100’s of photo opportunities.

Grab your camera or smartphone and bring your partner, your kids, your entire family, friends. Bestie or work mates and become a work of art!

ArtVo Immersive Gallery

Level 1, 26 Star Crescent The District Docklands Melbourne - www.artvo.com.au (03) 9600 1118 info@artvo.com.au www.facebook.com/ArtVoMelbourne @artvomelbourne

Conveniently located at The District Docklands Melbourne and Robina Town Centre Gold Coast. ArtVo is the perfect place to visit any time of the week. And rain, hail or shine, ArtVo will be open. You can spend as long as you like at ArtVo, but we recommend you allow up to 2 hours to immerse yourself in the experience and explore the full gallery. And if you’re not sure what to do, ArtVo staff are on hand to show you how to take the best photo.

If you haven’t been to Artvo before, our galleries are a unique experience allowing visitors to create memories that will last a lifetime. There will be surprises, we can’t give it all away, you must come along and see it for yourself.

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T HE T R AVELLER

Byron Bay T HE FACES OF

W O R D S_ P E TA M U R R AY

P H O T O S_ N ATAL IE G R O N O

—With a chilled vibe, fabulous food scene and a beach for every day of the week, it is no wonder the northern NSW town attracts two million visitors a year. Here, families, friends and couples reveal the special things that keep them coming back to this coastal idyll—

BYR O N BAY

A day with dolphins “We arrived in Brisbane from Cairo, Egypt, three years ago but haven’t had much chance to travel around,” says mother-of-two Fatima El Saadani (pictured at Cape Byron Lighthouse with husband Mohammed and daughters Aicha and Aaliyah). Describing the family’s two-day visit, Fatima says, “We have no plans except to relax. Maybe kayaking with the dolphins but nothing too stressful.

We’ll just go with it.”

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T HE T R AVELLER

Screaming for...

Stopping in town to break up a long road trip south, the Phyland family from Melbourne (parents Ben and Amanda pictured here with children Henry, Lucia and Sachi and Louie the labradoodle) enjoy a cold treat at Bella Rosa Gelateria in Byron’s centre. “We’ve holidayed in Byron Bay a few times over the years. We like the weather, the surf and the good vibe,” says Ben. “Louie is loving this trip,” adds wife Amanda. “He’s been to every beach.”

BYR O N B AY

36KM

IS THE DISTANCE BYRON BAY IS FROM THE BALLINA BYRON GATEWAY AIRPORT.

Feeling the love!

“I love that people here smile at you in the street even when they don’t know you,” says Natalia Garcia (pictured here with boyfriend Diago Rengifo) who travelled to Byron Bay from Madrid, Spain, to begin a working holiday in Australia. “We come from the other side of the world,” Diago says, “so we didn’t know what to expect. When we arrived in Byron, someone called out to us, ‘Hey, we love you’, and we thought, ‘Wow!’”

Chasing cocktails “I’ve never been this far up the east coast before,” says Adelaide primary school teacher Lauren Trowse (pictured here with friend Kate Evans), who originally hails from Scotland. “Byron is beautiful, very tropical,” she adds. Fresh from a pedicure, the teachers plan to hit the shops before happy hour at The Mez Club in Jonson Street. “We just want to eat lots of good food and drink lots of good cocktails,” says Kate.

067

Taking to the skies “We came to Byron Bay because we wanted to experience something different,” says Michelle Lam from Hong Kong (pictured eating lunch at Top Shop with friend Stella Lan from mainland China). The pair plan to pack plenty of adventure into their twoday visit including a surf lesson, sunrise at the lighthouse and a skydiving tour. “Skydiving from 14,000 feet is going to be intense,” giggles Michelle. “We’re a little bit nervous, I’m not going to lie.”

28° THE AVERAGE MAX

Marvelling at the moonrise

TEMPERAT URE IN SUMMER. THE WINTER AVERAGE MAX IS A PLEASANT 21 DEGREES.

“Everyone in Byron gathers to watch the sunset but my favourite thing is watching the moon rise over the ocean from up at the lighthouse,” says student Pamela Machado, pictured joining friend and fellow Brazilian Rodrigo Maltoni and new pal Iver Harsjoen from Norway in a game of altinha (which involves juggling a soccer ball using feet, legs, chest and head without allowing the ball to hit the ground).

On a surfing safari Catching a morning wave at The Pass, Melbourne surfing sisters and first-time visitors to Byron Bay Phoebe and Isabella Clark say the place definitely lives up to the hype. “It’s so chill and homey and all the people are so nice,” says 14-year-old Phoebe. “The water is really warm,” adds Isabella. “It’s gorgeous here. We love it.”

BYR O N B AY

069

Seeing the sights Employed at a winery in South Australia’s Barossa Valley, Moldova-born Victor Zghiban (pictured here with partner Oxana Mirzincu and five-year-old son Sebastian) travelled to Byron Bay on the recommendation of a former colleague who now works at the town’s iconic Stone & Wood brewery. “We’ve been out to the brewery – the beer is very good,” says Victor. “It’s also nice to experience the ocean and all the nature here. I think it’s a beautiful place.”

070

BYR O N BAY

Celeb spotting “Maxwell has been coming to the beach since he was a few months old,” says US-born mum Margo McGuigan. Now based in Brisbane, Margo brings her five-year-old son to Byron Bay as often as she can.

“We love The Pass,” she says, “the café and the beach. One school holiday Chris Hemsworth was here with Matt Damon. Matt Damon’s little girl got stung by a jellyfish and we gave them an ice pack.

Maxwell is always on the lookout for them now. It’s another reason he likes it here.”

1907 THE YEAR BYRON’S SURF LIFE SAVING CLUB WAS ESTABLISHED. MAIN BEACH IS PATROLLED EVERY DAY.

Cruising the coastline Hitomi Hirota met model Mariko five years ago when Mariko turned up for a photo shoot in the Tokyo clothing store where Hitomi worked and the pair have been best friends ever since. With Hitomi currently based on the Gold Coast and Mariko on a five-day visit to Australia, the two friends decided to spend an afternoon in Byron Bay. “I like the atmosphere here,” says Hitomi. “I like chilling out at the beach and watching the sunset.

It’s so peaceful.”

JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O B ALL I N A.

JE T S TA R.C O M

FRAZZLE FREE TRAVEL A LITTLE PREPARATION CAN GO A LONG WAY TOWARDS CREATING PEACE OF MIND, AND HELP YOU DEAL WITH THE UNEXPECTED, WHEN YOU TRAVEL.

GET PREPPING

> If you’re worried about the ‘what ifs’, the best way to combat pre-travel stress is to identify the triggers. Nervous about losing your travel documents? Scan everything and email to yourself so you can easily access copies. Fretting about closing up the house?

Do a room-by-room checklist so you aren’t in the taxi agonising over whether you left the kitchen window open. In a panic about what to pack? Make a detailed list for that too and don’t forget to check your passport is still valid.

SORT THE KIDS

> Going on holiday with kids can be stressful – according to Jetstar reseach, parents often feel anxious anticipation before a family trip – but it doesn’t have to be this way. Make things easy for yourself by loading up those iPads for the flight, booking a resort with a Kids’ Club and consulting the experts – blogs such as travelmadmum.com and worldtravelfamily. com are packed full of insights, tips and tricks for taking the stress out of travelling with kids.

PICK A PET SITTER

> Dreaming of a tropical island getaway but can’t bear the thought of putting your fur babies in kennels? Use an app – or a trusted friend – to have your pets stay comfy and secure in the familiar surroundings of their own home. Knowing your beloved pets are safe and getting their afternoon walks in their favourite park means you can relax and enjoy your own sunset stroll in paradise.

BROUGHT TO YOU BY JETSTAR TRAVEL INSURANCE

TOP UP YOUR TECH

> Invest in a pocket Wi-Fi such as Skyroam Solis or Huawei Mobile WiFi Pro to ensure reliable internet connection when overseas.

Then download handy travel apps such as TripIt, which organise all your bookings in one place. Google Maps and Google Translate can get you out of a bind, while the Tinder-style Blink Travel app saves time on destination research – if climbing Sydney Harbour Bridge doesn’t appeal, swipe left. Want to check out the most Instagrammable sights? Swipe right to save to your travel map.

GO WITH THE FLOW

> We can’t always control what happens but there is no point letting one or two negative experiences ruin a holiday, so deal with stressful situations as quickly as possible and move on. OK, so dropping your phone into Lake Wanaka while taking a shot of the amazing view might feel like a disaster – but all is not lost if you have backed up on iCloud. And that evening you have to spend in Phuket because you missed the boat might be the best night of your life.

An attitude of acceptance is key to maintaining inner peace.

BREATHE EASY

> If you’re feeling frazzled, simply taking a moment to pause and breathe deeply can help manage stress. It’s also a good idea to sneak in a quick meditation practice into your day – there are plenty of apps out there which provide on-the-go meditation and mindfulness guides so you can fit it in between sightseeing or business meetings. Some also offer relaxation music and sleepy time stories to soothe the senses when jetlag is at play.

BE PRESENT

> Leave all that niggly ‘life admin’ stuff behind.

Set an out-of-office reply for your work emails and mentally switch off. Scheduling some downtime for when you arrive at your destination – whether it’s booking a massage or running a bath – will help do just that by kick-starting relaxation mode.

Booking travel insurance can give you peace of mind and could cover you for any unexpected surprises.

Book at jetstar.com/travelinsurance

THREE GREAT APPS YOU NEED TO DOWNLOAD BEFORE YOUR NEXT TRIP – PEACE OF MIND GUARANTEED. CALM An award-winning meditation and mindfulness app that will help you stay in the moment during your holiday.

MAD PAWS Find vetted pet- and house-sitters who can take care of your fur babies.

TRIPCASE Avoid information overload by organising all of your trip details and travel plans into one streamlined itinerary before your holiday.

For Australian Residents, insurance products and services are provided by AIG Australia Limited, ABN 93 004 727 753, AFSL 381686 (AIG). Jetstar Airways Pty Ltd, ABN 33 069 720 243 (Jetstar), is an authorised distributor of AIG. You should read and consider the policy and PDS at jetstar.com and note the limitations and exclusions in the policy, in light of your personal circumstances, prior to making any decision to acquire the product. For New Zealand residents, insurance is underwritten by AIG Insurance New Zealand Limited (Company Number 3195589, FSP189804) (“AIG NZ”). Jetstar is not authorised to provide any advice regarding insurance or to bind any person on behalf of AIG or AIG NZ. Jetstar Travel Insurance must be purchased prior to boarding the aircraft for departure.

walk

A DVEN T U RE

074

T HE T R AVELLER

—A four-day hike on WA’s Cape to Cape Track reveals to Jenny Hewett not only incredibly rare flora and fauna but also the power of nature in rebuilding human connections—

of

life

076

B U S SELT O N

“You guys trod on a baby snake,” calls a

WILLS D O M AIN

voice behind us. My mum and I look down at our hiking boots. We had been transfixed by the giant whale bone resting on the rocks before us. Looking like a Sculpture by the Sea installation, the weathered bone is all that’s left of the humpback carcass that washed up here at Wyadup at Margaret River, forcing the closure of the public beach. But all of a sudden it seems less impressive.

The alert jolts us out of our trance and fellow hikers Bob and his grandson Josh are racing over. “You stepped right on it, it went crazy,” says the 14-year-old, smiling, as we gather around. Sure enough, it’s a snake.

Spooked by the unfortunate placement of a boot, it reared its head at the walkers trailing behind before slithering away, unharmed.

“It’s probably a baby dugite,” laughs our guide, experienced walker Anne Collell. “The babies are very feisty but usually too small to do any damage.” A few hours into our four-day walk along the Cape to Cape Track in WA’s south west, the plot is thickening. But baby snakes are the least of our worries.

“The weather is coming in,” says Anne, as we scramble up and down the rugged coastal track, a mix of sandy single-file paths, granite rocks millions of years old and low vegetation, from Smiths Beach to Injidup. The wild, turquoise ocean begins to blacken under a greying sky.

Wind beats my raincoat and rain pelts my face.

The walk will go on rail, hail or shine but there is an end in sight. “We’re almost there, not far now,” shouts Anne. “Your accommodation is tucked away over there,” she adds, pointing.

Sopping wet, leaving 5.5km and a trail of footprints on the wooden deck behind me, I look

“T HE DRE A M Y C OASTAL SEC T IO NS OF T HE TR ACK ARE STAG GERIN GLY BE AU T IFUL, AS IF REN DERED IN WATER C OLO UR.”

like something the cat dragged in when we enter the luxurious ocean-facing Injidup Spa Retreat soon after. Moments ago we were exposed to the elements, fighting off rain and howling wind on an unprotected coastal track. Now I’m sipping sparkling wine from Hay Shed Hill with Mum and enjoying the ocean views beyond our private plunge pool as our wet clothes dry on the rack inside our roomy two-bedroom digs.

Stocked with a gourmet hamper, wine, cheese and craft beers from the eclectic Margaret River region, three hours south of Perth, this two-bedroom villa is our luxurious base for the next three nights as we embark on a 41-km guided walk with boutique tour operator Walk Into Luxury (walkintoluxury.com.au).

And with comfy beds, a fireplace and heated floors, there will be no cold, sleepless nights.

“We knew there were plenty of soft adventure seekers in Australia who wouldn’t be up for gruelling hikes and camping overnight on the track, but who definitely wanted to get into nature and explore regions like ours in comfort,” says Nikki King, managing director of Walk Into Luxury.

Recognised as one of the Great Walks of Australia, this exclusive four-day itinerary is the Perth-based tour provider’s signature experience. Tracing the coastal ridge of the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park, it takes in the best sections of the 135km Cape to Cape Track and elevates them with luxe lodging and foodie experiences, including multi-course meals at Margaret River wineries, a private chef dinner and epicurean packed lunches.

HEAD D O W N TO IN JID UP BEAC H B OR A N UP K ARRI FORES T

IN JID UP N AT UR AL P O OLS

Officially formed in 2001 by local botanist and bushwalker Jane Scott, the Cape to Cape Track is a moderate walk on mixed terrain that showcases the rare flora and fauna of this scenic region. With many of the plant species growing here found nowhere else on earth, including the spider orchid and old man’s beard, its superlative as one of the world’s 36 biodiversity hotspots is well deserved. Forged out of old trails made by fishermen and surfers, the track extends from Cape Naturaliste in the north to Cape Leeuwin in the south, snaking through thick coastal heath, isolated white-sand beaches, seas of wildflowers and towering karri forests. I don’t really need to keep my eyes peeled for the thousands of species of wildflowers, approximately 200 species of native orchids, kangaroos, birdlife and sealife including whales, dolphins and seals, as Anne has got it covered.

“That’s our ringneck parrot,” she says as we quietly set out from Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse the next morning, daypacks strapped to our backs. “We call them ‘28s’ because when the French [explorers] arrived, they thought they were saying 28 in French,” she says with her warm smile. We’re making our way along a sealed trail that winds through thick, head-high heath to the lookout at Sugarloaf Rock. Today, we’ll cover 14km of mostly flat terrain that traces the coastline hugging some of Margaret River’s most famous surf breaks. I can tell the ocean is near because the patchworks of greens surrounding us are considerably lower now. Pruned by the relentless winds, they don’t grow any higher than a few feet. “People think it’s a manicured botanical garden but it’s all natural,” says Anne.

The dreamy coastal sections of the track are staggeringly beautiful, as if rendered in watercolour, with the clifftop trail clipping

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B U S SELT O N

ADD TO T HE S U GARLOAF R O CK, LEEU WIN-N AT UR AL IS TE N ATIO N AL PARK

ADVEN T URE

turquoise bays and sandy, white coves. At one point, we pause in silence to watch dolphins surfing the white-crested waves rolling in, and enjoy morning tea of hot chocolate and biscuits on an exposed rock face out in the ocean.

But it’s within the protected karri forests and cozy heaths that conversation is honoured.

With all of life’s distractions, it’s not often I get to chat so freely with Mum. Up the back, I hear Bob and Josh engaging in walk-and-talk therapy, too; laughs, social media, bullying, hobbies, no topic is off the table. Later that night, over a four-course dinner with wine pairings at Cape Lodge, 70-something Bob explains he takes each of his grandsons on walking holidays as a sort of coming-of-age ritual. I knew going on this trip with Mum would bring us closer, but sharing in the bonding with two strangers has been a pleasant byproduct of this journey.

Some of my more candid moments go undocumented. Later that day my right foot spooks another baby dugite onto the narrow track as we meander along the path bordered by thick vegetation. The little serpent is going beserk, propelling itself towards me as I lurch back. I know what I should normally do in these scenarios, but reptile infants are another story.

Mum grabs my shoulders from behind. “Just stand still!” she urges. Eventually, the critter calmly slithers back into the undergrowth.

If there’s one thing I’ve learnt, it’s that you should always listen to your mother.

L O W FA RES T O B U S SELT O N O N S AL E N O W.

> Climb high Run by experienced “rock hopper” Mick Dempsey, Margaret River Climbing Co. offers abseiling, rock climbing and caving experiences at some of Margaret River’s most scenic spots. Abseil 40 metres down the sheer sea cliffs at Wilyabrup, explore the caves at Boranup Forest and then rock-climb back up. The full-day tours take in all three disciplines and include lunch and snacks. margaretriverclimbingco. com.au > Dive right in Swim with bottlenose dolphins in the wild in the open waters of Koombana Bay on an experience led by trained guides and volunteers. Dolphins regularly visit the area, though the reasons for it remain a mystery. The Dolphin Discovery Centre was established in 1990 as a way for the community to protect and conserve them. The wild dolphins often choose to interact with swimmers, though this behaviour is not forced. dolphindiscovery.com.au

JE T S TA R.C O M

> Ride away Jump on an electric 4WD quad bike and explore the forest within Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park on a custom-built environmentfriendly EcoBike with Eco Adventures Margaret River. The 90-minute tour showcases 18km of the best trails and offers a smooth, quiet ride. ecoadventures margaretriver.com

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01. THE WELLNESS SEEKER

Bali

02. THE FAMILY

1 DES T IN AT IO N 3 WAYS

—A wonderland of adventure, fun and affordable luxury, this sun-kissed island is the ultimate all-rounder.

Three locals play guide: you choose the itinerary that’s right for you—

03. THE SOLO TRAVELLER

WORDS_ JENNY HEWET T

On show National Museum of Australia, Canberra UNTIL 2 FEBRUARY 2020 nma.gov.au

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NAME L EN A H U S M A N N O C C U PAT IO N BR A N D M A N AG ER & YO G A EN T H U SI A S T

A M O SPA

The Wellness Seeker

SA M ADI

Spa safari > The outdoor bathhouse at Amo Spa is the most blissful (not to mention social) way to unwind in Canggu. After yoga, I refuel on avocado toast at the in-house cafĂŠ and then spend a few tranquil hours in the sauna, steam room, outdoor jacuzzi, ice plunge and salt baths.

The sauna day pass for 200,000 IDR (about $21) is unlimited, so you can use it as many times you want in one day but remember to book online.

Riding a scooter every day in Bali, I’m prone to congestion and the deep clean facial at Esthetic Day Spa (+62 819 1677 4478) at Canggu Plaza is my go-to for steaming and extraction. They also do an amazing hot stone massage. amospa.com

> The best yoga studios offer more than movement.

Samadi takes a holistic approach, with classes spanning Mysore and ashtanga to hatha and even tantric, plus an organic market on Sundays and a vegie kitchen serving up healthy eats. Smaller, gentler classes can be found at The Chillhouse in Badung, as well as sound healing with singing bowls. For a deeper journey into the power of sound, Pyramids of Chi (Gianyar, Ubud) offers sessions using gongs, drums and didgeridoos. samadibali.com; the chillhouse.com; pyramidsofchi.com

T HE C HILL H O USE

Soul soother

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M ARIA C UR AU

GIVE

Natural beauty > For neat nails without the nasty fumes, head

Keep it green > There is no shortage of plant-based cafés in Bali but Canggu’s Give has a bigger conscience than most. This hip warung (small café) serves delicious vegan fare – think Buddha bowls and Balinese curry – and 100 per cent of its profits go to worthy causes. The Shady Shack Bali (fb.me/ theshadyshackbali) might be a vegetarian institution but with bulky jackfruit burgers and sweet potato gnocchi, non-vegies would never know it. For great value clean eats in Canggu, Oma Jamu warung (fb.me/omajamuvegan) on Batu Bolong is a hidden gem that serves up fresh vegan dishes daily at affordable prices. givecafe.org

to the laid-back yet luxe Maria Curau in leafy Pererenan. The spa has gained a cult following among expats for vegan, non-toxic mani-pedis and minimalist nail art, only an extra 10,000IDR (about $1) per nail. The staff are well-trained, you can throw back free kombucha and nail treatments end with a mini-massage. Despite being all-natural, the manicures are high quality. mariacurau.com

LOCAL TIP. Gone are the days of walk-ins – book restaurants and spas ahead, especially during the peak times of Easter, Christmas/New Year and July-August.

T HE SH ADY SH ACK

Body reset > If you want the benefits of a wellness retreat but don’t want to part with all your savings, visit Dr Thomas Sladek at The Detox Room. The Bali-based Austrian doctor is a certified acupuncturist too and offers holistic detox programs, which might involve cleansing, juicing, colon hydrotherapy, Chinese cupping and herbal medicine.

The Detox Room is very clean and comfortable and Dr Thomas is super professional. It’s a big commitment to make on holiday but after day three, I could already feel a huge difference. fb.me/thedetoxroom

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The Family

NAME KER I A N N W YL IE O C C U PAT IO N H A IRS T YL IS T & M U M OF T W O

Kids’ hub

B O U N CE BAL I

in Canggu, Parklife has become a regular on our rounds. We love it because it is the only family-friendly venue we’ve found on the island with those signature rice-paddy views.

The park has lots of grass for barefoot exploration, as well as a splash pad, sandpit, playground and jumping pillow. Order a Bintang, rosé or latte and join the hive of parents looking on from the sunset deck or Skittles-hued beanbags and picnic blankets. It is still relatively new so it doesn’t get too busy, even on weekends. parklifebali.com

PARKL IFE

> A sprawling, shaded play centre

Just add water > For aquatic fun without the queues, head to

SPL ASH WATERPARK

Splash Waterpark at Finns Recreation Club in Canggu. It is easy to get to, lacks the crowds, has a relaxed setting and I like that the small baby slides extend to the sun lounges, which make it easy for me to keep an eye on my toddlers while I dig into a fresh coconut. If you want to make a week of it, the seven-day Super Fun pass includes visits to Bounce Bali trampoline park and Strike bowling alley, as well as the Cubby House Kids Club. splashbali.com

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Skate mate > Our three-year-old is getting pretty confident on

A MPL IT U DE SK ATE A ND BIKE PARK

the small balance bikes at Amplitude Skate and Bike Park in Kerobokan. The Swiss-designed racing pump track has a series of bends and hills that make learning to ride a little more thrilling, plus there’s a street skate park and skate bowl for those mad about tricks. The venue rents out all the equipment and can also provide professional skateboard coaching for little ones of any age.

There’s a little café serving decent coffee, too. raceamplitude.com

Easy eats > Made’s Warung is around the corner from our villa in Berawa, Canggu, and has a creative kids menu and plenty of room to run riot. The teddy bear pancakes are almost too cute to eat but the energy-burning outdoor play area (cubby house, swings and trampoline) will ensure they demolish their meals. The new indoor creche, Shine, starts at only 20,000IDR (about $2) for entry and has a ball pit, playhouse and Lego (just remember to take socks). Whenever I have the kids on my own, I bring them here for an afternoon and grab a bite in the café, knowing they are in a safe, contained space. madeswarungberawa.com

LOCAL TIP. Hire out the necessities to keep your litt le ones safe and comfortable, including pool fences, car seats, high chairs and portacots. balibabyhire.com

T HE TR A NS RES ORT

The first resort > We’ve made a hobby out of finding the best family stays in Bali and Seminyak’s The Trans Resort wins hands down. It’s five minute’s walk to Eat Street (Jalan Oberoi) and the hotel’s all-day free shuttle to Seminyak Square and Potato Head is a lifesaver for tired little feet.

The complimentary kids’ club offers activities including arts and crafts and an ice-cream station, and the beach-feel pool is perfect for wading.

From just 1,955,000IDR (about $205) a night, it is great value for families. transresortbali.com

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The Solo Traveller NAME A N T H O N Y F O WL ES T O N E O C C U PAT IO N G E O SPAT I AL C O N S ULTA N T

Deep blue > Nusa Lembongan is just a 30-minute fast boat ride from the main island of Bali and Blue Corner Dive there is my go-to for adventures below the sea. I love the diversity of diving options around Lembongan, like the coral-clad Ceningan Wall or Manta Point off Nusa Penida where you can swim with manta rays. The dive centre has a great atmosphere and owner Andrew Taylor is a marine biologist who also dedicates time to inspiring coral restoration projects. bluecornerdive.com

BLUE C ORNER DIVE

M A N TA P OIN T

ZIN CAFÉ

LOCAL TIP. Feeling lazy? You name it, ride-sharing app Gojek delivers it: beer, ice-cream, burgers, pork crackling and massages. go-jek.com

Work to play > If you’re looking to catch up on work, head to Zin Café, a hub for digital nomads. Two minutes from the beach in Canggu, the earth-toned bamboo pavilion is multi-level with comfy lounges, an inspiring menu (the tuna poke bowl and softshelled crab in a brioche bun are fuel for thought) and quality coffee. The co-working space has a fast fibre-optic connection and a laid-back vibe and I find any FOMO I often associate with opening my laptop quickly dissipates. zin-cafe.com

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Slow travel

INFINIT Y M O U N TAIN BIK IN G

> When I need to reset, I head to the Alila Manggis hotel on the island’s sleepy east. There’s something to be said for the sense of immersion that exploring a place by bike affords you. From Lempuyang Temple in the shadow of Mount Agung to the white sand beach of Pasir Putih, the hotel’s mountain bike tour offers the ultimate in nature bathing. Winding through forests and villages, you learn about local life through the captivating stories of a guide before a dip in the ocean and a lunch of grilled fish. Alternatively, Infinity Mountain Biking offers longer two- and three-day cultural and adventure tours around Bali (infinitymountainbiking.com). alilahotels.com/manggis

LEMP U YA N G TEMPLE

Surf’s up > In the surfing community, Bali is known as “the land of the lefts”. My stance is regular and for a change from Bali’s left-handers, I head to Shipwrecks on Nusa Lembongan for a quality right. The reef break is marked by a rusted ship’s bow along an exposed neighbouring reef and is known for its tight barrels and large open faces – just watch out for metal and coral at low tide. The furthest break out along Jungut Batu Bay, Shipwrecks can be reached from shore by a quick boat ride. But if you are feeling particularly enthusiastic, the 700-metre paddle with the silhouette of Mount Agung in the distance will wake you up.

YO GA 108 BAL I

Zen pen > A tranquil tree house hidden in one of Bali’s busiest areas, Yoga 108 Bali in Seminyak is an intimate loft-style space offer a range of classes.

I always end up chatting to other travellers and the atmosphere is a refreshing departure from many of the larger shalas thanks to charismatic owner Jessie. His pragmatic approach is delivered with humour: the self-described “human mechanic” is averse to spiritual fluff – and sandy feet – in his studio. yoga108bali.com

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F I N D YO U R

BLISS

IN BALI

NEXT LEVEL DINING

> Blanco par Mandif in Ubud is one of the best and most intimate places to eat in Bali, not only due to its sophisticated and beautifully plated dishes but also because of the way in which chef Mandif Warokka draws on his culinary heritage to reimagine local cuisine.

Book a table for two and linger over the dégustation. Dishes may include silky rock lobster with asparagus and salted egg or getuk lindri – a traditional dessert from central Java delicately balanced with raspberry, coconut, lime and cassava. blancoparmandif.com

TAKE WORLD-CLASS FOOD, ADD SOME SERIOUS PAMPERING AND, OF COURSE, FINISH WITH ROMANCE AND YOU HAVE THE PERFECT COUPLES GETAWAY IN BALI. SPA SANCTUARY

> From the moment you both step into the warm bath with colourful and fragrant flower petals at Lembah Spa, it’s impossible not to feel deeply relaxed and connected.

A romantic couples treatment also includes a dreamy Balinese massage and a body scrub and mask that will leave your skin beautifully silky and soft. After your treatment, sip a fresh juice overlooking the Petanu River Gorge and the lush jungle below. lembahspa.com

LET’S DRINK TO THAT

> Whether you have a special occasion to celebrate or you simply want to enjoy being together, Bali has got the bar for you. From the concealed, moody Back Room at Mason where some of the world's best DJs play, to artisan negronis at The Slow or sunset cocktails at Ji Terrace by the Sea, Canggu is the spot for couples to sip in style. masonbali.com; theslow.id; jirestaurantbali.com

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MAKE A SPIRITUAL CONNECTION

> Bali has some amazing temples and sunset is one of the best times to visit. Head to Uluwatu Temple for stunning architecture as the sun sinks into the glittering Indian Ocean, streaking the sky in dazzling pink, purple and orange. Or listen to the roaring waves at Tanah Lot Temple as the golden glow of the setting sun lights up the ancient shrine atop a rocky outcrop.

ADVENTURE (AND EGGS)

> One way to get your heart racing is with a trek up Mount Batur, one of Bali’s most spectacular sites. Setting off with your guide in darkness, only stars and torches light your way.

But when dawn breaks, the active volcano is awash with morning light as you make your way to the summit. A spectacular panorama awaits at the top and your guide may even whip up a breakfast like no other – eggs cooked on lava-heated rocks. mtbatursunrisetrekking.com

BEACH BEAUTY

> Long walks on the beach may sound like a cliché but on this coastline you won’t be able to resist flicking off your shoes and strolling hand-in-hand along the shore. If you want to go off the beaten track, head to the tranquil Bias Tugel Beach or, for a private frolic, it’s hard to beat Gunung Payung with its white sand and turquoise water.

CHALLENGE ACCEPTED

> For a fun bonding experience, couples can tap into their creativity to solve a series of puzzles at Totem Room Escape Challenge, a physical adventure game. You may be slaves of Egypt stuck in an ancient pharaoh’s tomb or professional thieves trying to crack into a vault containing a fortune in gold coins. totemroomescape.com

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FA MILY

the faraway

T H E T R AV ELLER

place

095

—Remote, beautiful and bursting with friendly locals and natural wonders (hello, humpbacks!), the Cook Islands in the South Pacific is the perfect match for families who want to laugh, play and escape the 9 to 5 together, as Larissa Dubecki discovers—

David Dare Parker P05381.037

This special exhibition honours those Australians who work tirelessly to avert tragedy and build peace.

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@my_rarotonga

C O O K ISL A N D S

“Look, Mum, there’s Nemo,” exclaims my seven-year-old son peering down through the glass floor of the boat we are chugging along on, in the unbelievably clear waters of the Muri Lagoon. His glee is palpable as he watches a moray eel glide past, closely followed by schools of bluefin trevally that change colour from pale to dark when they’re on the hunt for lunch, and giant clams exhibiting their frill-edged shells – all being pointed out by our eccentric guide, “Captain Coconut”.

Cancel the search. Nemo has been found and he’s in the Cook Islands.

This far-flung collection of 15 volcanic islands and coral atolls dotted across an area the size of western Europe still remains off the beaten South Pacific track. Yet with tourism numbers jumping – last year a record 168,000 people visited this nation of 17,000 – word is getting out about the beauty of Rarotonga, home of the village-like capital Avarua, and its island siblings.

It’s not difficult to see their appeal. The Cook Islands are a place of unforgettable underwater encounters that might make you feel like you’re swimming in a tropical aquarium housing endless schools of bright fish of every colour of the rainbow.

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15 T O TAL N U M BER OF V OL C A N IC ISL A N D S A N D C O R AL AT OLL S

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They’re the home of turquoise waters and coconut palm-shaded white sand beaches.

And they’re also a destination seemingly purpose-built to forget the pressures of everyday life. From the ukulele-strumming man serenading each plane load of passengers at Rarotonga’s tiny airport to the chilled-out friendliness of locals, it’s a place to set your clock to a cliché-free “island time”.

Only six hours’ flight from Sydney (or about four hours from Auckland), if there was ever a place tailor-made for turning off a hypervigilant city parent’s brain, this is it. The locals are child-friendly to the point my kids almost became sick of the constant hair-ruffling. The surreal blue waters are calm and safe thanks to a surrounding ring of reefs absorbing the brunt of the ocean’s force. And there’s more than enough pristine powdery beach to go around – in fact, it’s all too easy to find your own deserted slice of paradise.

“Raro”, or “The Rock”, as it’s more commonly known, has no traffic lights (the widely respected top speed limit is 50 kilometres an hour) and no building taller than the highest coconut tree (it is enshrined in law). Floral crowns pass as everyday headwear for women and ownerless chickens

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“H U MPBACK W H ALES PASS T HESE ISL A N D S O N T HEIR MIGR AT IO N PAT H FR O M JULY TO O C TOBER, A N D WE

roam the streets. Its other idiosyncrasies include a restriction on alcohol sold on Sundays except in resorts (“God is watching,” says one local, pointing to the sky. Ample compensation comes in attending one of the musical services held across the island’s many churches).

The first commandment of the Cook Islands: thou shalt not hurry. It’s a point demonstrated on our first morning at Edgewater Resort & Spa (edgewater.co.ck) when our breakfast of fresh papaya, watermelon, banana and yoghurt on the open-air terrace is interrupted by the sight of a whale water-spouting and breaching beyond the coral reef fringing the island, its tail slapping the water with unbelievable force.

Humpback whales pass these islands on their migration path from July to October, and we spend an hour simply watching them put on a show as they pass by. It’s a far cry from our hurried toast-on-the-go mornings in Melbourne.

This prett y much sets the tone of our stay throughout – laid-back and punctuated with moments of utter delight.

Keeping an eye on our children in the swimming pool is easy from the adjoining dining terrace, while taking them looking for fish in the shallow ocean water takes a 10-second walk across powder-soft sand.

The kids’ club runs classes in everything from Polynesian dance to coconut decorating and the art of tying a pareu (sarong). And the resort is situated on the western side of the island, which means our evenings are spent watching the sunset with a drink in hand.

Ringed by the main 32-kilometre Ara Tapu road that hugs the coastline, nothing in Rarotonga takes too long to get to. Tourists and locals alike converge on the Punanga Nui Market in Avarua where you can buy a croissant that would pass muster in Paris, a meticulously handcrafted ukulele or local black pearls.

We fuel up with a nu (milk from a young coconut) for NZ$3 (about $2.80 – the Cooks use New Zealand currency), tropical smoothies packed with mango, paw paw and protein powder, and local specialty ika mata – a ubiquitous and delicious type of raw fish ceviche “cooked” with lemon juice and soothed with coconut cream.

The proud Polynesian culture embraces the catch fished from the ocean each morning such as mahi mahi, wahoo and albacore tuna, which are ubiquitous not only in local dishes but in modern adaptations too. For those times our kids need some familiar foods, we tuck into exceptional burgers and sandwiches sitting on the outdoor picnic bench at Mooring Fish Café (themooringfishcaferaro.com), a converted shipping-container restaurant run by a New Zealand couple who fish in the mornings and serve up their catch for lunch.

@my_rarotonga

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C O O K ISL A N D S

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R AR O B U G GY TO URS

S TA MP YO U R M EM O RY The idyllic sandy islet of Tapuaetai off Aitutaki also goes by the name One Foot Island; take your passport when you visit to receive the indelible memento of a cute passport stamp

P U N A N GA N UI M ARKE T

to immortalise your visit.

While I’m perfectly happy with just a sun lounger and a book, the kids soon feel the need to burn off energy and, luckily, the Cooks are not only a honeymooners’ paradise, they offer plenty of family-friendly adventure activities. From off-roading on custom-built two-seater buggies through a coconut plantation with Raro Buggy Tours (rarobuggytours.com) to exploring Rarotonga’s hidden rural heart on two wheels with Storytellers Eco Cycle Tours (storytellers.co.ck), we do it all.

On the cycling tour, our guide “Uncle Jimmy” reveals local secrets such as small farms and a bracingly cold hidden waterfall along the 1000-year-old inland road, Ara Metua. In fact, it’s the people that really make these experiences unique. Uncle Jimmy’s storytelling could only be overshadowed by Captain Coconut’s stand-up routine, which he entertains us with as we enjoy a traditional barbecue lunch under the shade of palm trees at the end of our Muri Lagoon dive cruise.

As my two children, husband and I share another bout of uncontrollable laughter, I stop for a moment to acknowledge this “pinch-me” moment of happiness. This is the real magic of the island life – reconnecting with each other even as we connect with our wise, funny new friends.

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EAT > Cook Islands Coffee Company (Ara Tapu, Matavera District) roasts and serves excellent beans; if the orange traffic cone is out front, the place is open for business. > Beluga Café (Main Road, Arorangi District) serves a punchy modern café menu of burgers, poke bowls and smoked marlin Caesar salads.

If Rarotonga is idyllic, neighbouring Aitutaki takes things to the next level. With a population of 2000 (Rarotonga’s 14,000 feels very “big city” in comparison!), its drawcards are its blue lagoon and beaches that regularly make the world’s most beautiful lists.

It’s an easy day-trip – the flight from Rarotonga is just 50 minutes and the operators of the Vaka Cruise (thevakacruise.com) arrange all land transportation so you can spend the day cruising the lagoon and visiting its various motus (islands) onboard their catamaran, with giant, gleaming silver trevally following the boat.

But we stay on the island overnight. It is worth it if only to enjoy the delightful sensation of stepping directly from our veranda onto the sand at Aitutaki Beach Villas (aitutakibeachvillas.com).

“I think the real secret to Aitutaki for most people is its tranquillity,” says bookings manager Ian Osborn. “There’s nothing flash about the island yet the serenity allows you to connect with your family. It’s just a really wonderful place to focus on the simple pleasures of life like the locals do.”

Said simple pleasures include swimming in the lagoon, investigating makatea (fossilised coral) and organising hermit crabs into racing stables until the sun dips into the sea.

The ultimate sign of a good holiday? The kids don’t ask about their iPads once.

JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O R A R O T O N G A.

> For dinner, the beachfront bar Vaiana’s Bar & Bistro (Ara Tapu, Avarua District) offers sand-in-your-toes dining with a seafood-centric menu eaten at picnic tables on Nikao Beach.

D O N’T MIS S Made up like a traditional village in the heart of Muri, the Te Vara Nui

> Tamarind House (tamarindrarotonga.com) is the home of upmarket Pacific cuisine in a restored colonial house on the Tupapa beachfront.

cultural village (tevaranui.co.ck) offers a guided tour through the history of the Polynesian people in the Cook Islands, then ends with a buffet dinner and an over-water dance spectacular telling the story of voyaging warrior Tongaiti and his journey across the seas.

JE T S TA R.C O M

STAY > Luxury boutique resort Rainbow Villas consists of two eco-luxury selfcontained villas located on one of the highest points of the island. Crafted in traditional Polynesian design with thatched roofs, each villa sleeps up to four and overlook the golf course to the ocean beyond. From NZ$475 (about $443) per night. rainbow-villas.com > Pacific Resort Rarotonga has a famed kids’ club fronting directly onto the sand of Muri Beach as well as excellent familyfriendly suites and villas.

From about NZ$470 (about $438) per night. pacificresort.com

T HE 360 O N...

Kōchi —Far beyond the neon metropolises of mainland Japan is a captivating city adorned with cherry blossoms, steaming onsens and waterfalls – the type you can climb—

SEE

Experience flower power

E XPL O RE

Step back in time > The 1200-year-old Shikoku Pilgrimage (shikoku-tourism. com/en) follows the footsteps of ninth-century priest Kōbō Daishi to 88 Buddhist temples around the island (with an optional extra 20 for the truly committed). You don’t have to be a Buddhist nor walk the entire 1200-kilometre circuit (some travel by taxi, bus, train or even helicopter) but it aims to encourage spiritual reflection and personal growth.

K UR O SHIO H O N JIN H OT SPRIN G S

> Because of its location on the island of Shikoku in the south of Japan, Kōchi has a cherry blossom season earlier than much of the rest of the country.

The magnificent trees put on their show in about mid-to-late March. Head to the Makino Botanical Garden (makino.or.jp), which contains about 30 different varieties of the beautiful blooms or trek out to the countryside to see the Hyotan cherry tree, said to be some 500 years old.

T H E T R AV ELLER

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MORE TO KNOW

M AK IN O B OTA NICAL GARDEN

WALK UP WATERFALLS > The summer sport of sawanobori or “shower climbing” up waterfalls in valleys and gorges originated in Japan and you can try it safely in Kōchi with Happy Raft (en.happyraft.com).

DI N E

Feast on fish > The consumption of fish dish bonito in Shikoku’s Kōchi prefecture is reportedly the highest in Japan and it’s most commonly served as katsuo no tataki, lightly seared bonito traditionally grilled over a straw fire. You’ll find plenty on offer at Hirome Ichiba, a large marketplace filled with more than 60 stalls and sociable communal tables packed with the 2.8 million people who visit each year.

MAKE THE PAPER > In 2001, tosa washi, the paper made here for 1000 years, was designated an Intangible Cultural Property by the government. You can try making it at Ino-cho Paper Museum (kamihaku.com).

Spring into action > Several onsens await in this prefecture. About 90 minutes’ drive south-west of Kōchi, the Kuroshio Honjin Hot Springs Inn (honjin.or.jp) is famous for its outdoor heated sea-water onsen with magnificent views of the Pacific Ocean and indoor hot-spring baths. For spectacular forest and river views in autumn, head to the mountains west of Kōchi to take advantage of outdoor onsens including Matsubakawa Onsen (onsen.nifty.com).

SIP SAKE > Sake fans have been bellying up for 400 years at the shop where Tsukasabotan Shuzo is brewed (tsukasabotan.co.jp).

Visit Akaoka (30 minutes east of Kōchi) in April: the Dorome Festival features a sakechugging ‘gulp down’ contest.

WORDS_ HELEN MARTIN

SOAK

ADVERTISEMENT ST JOSEPH’S COLLEGE

A MUM’S JOURNEY In late 2018, St Joseph’s College Hunters Hill came together to celebrate the mothers of the graduating class of 2018. As the mums took their seats, one mother, Bez Hines from Young NSW, shared her story about her son Julius, Joeys and the journey her family has taken

M

y youngest son, Julius, has just completed his final year at Joeys. It’s exciting that he will soon be entering the next stage of his life, however I wish I had more sons so I could stay a part of the school for longer. It seems my son is ready to leave but I am not!

I feel very lucky he ended up at Joeys. We had initially enrolled Julius in another Catholic independent school but luckily, my husband Gerard attended an information night at Joeys, just in case. After listening to the Headmaster speak, wandering around the school and chatting with the boys, Gerard called me and said, ‘We need to send Julius to Joeys’.

It was the boys who changed his heart that evening. It was their manners and enthusiasm. It was their openness and sense of fun. Gerard commented that the day boys didn’t seem to want to go home. What a good advertisement for a school – students who don’t want to leave!

Joeys has a history of educating boys who didn’t want to leave. My grandfather graduated in the 1920s, only going home to Trangie at the end of each year. Between terms he would usually stay with his uncle, John, who was the barber at Joeys for 50 years. My own uncle and brother were also boarders.

Our start at the school was a significant change for the family. Julius was reluctant to even get in the car on our first trip from Young to Sydney, he then refused to let his beloved dog out of the car. Eventually we pried the dog from Julius’ tight embrace with the three of us crying and the dog whimpering. It was hard.

That first trip to Sydney now feels like a lifetime ago.

The time between Year 7 and 12 has flown by in the blink of an eye. There was the anticipation of the next school holiday, bouts of homesickness, stress about work, winter colds, hot sleepless nights – and that was just me!

The same was true for Julius. Weeks and terms were marked by the ebb and flow of school life. From earning a great maths mark and a win in rugby, to getting dropped from the team and the occasional Sunday detention. There was excitement and disappointment, all of which have shaped the young man he is today.

Then, all of a sudden, Year 12 was upon us. Although this last year has been hard work for all of us, for the mothers it has also been filled with lunches, Masses, dinners and weekends away. At the end of our time here, we can be proud of our sons and celebrate the connections we have made with our beautiful friends.

As a Joeys mother, I’ve relished the school’s rituals: the Family Masses, Grandparents’ Day, the cheering, sports rallies and assemblies. My favourite of all the Joeys’ rituals, though, was lunch leave. As our families set up lunch on the College lawn, and our sons raced from picnic blanket to picnic blanket, the number of boys who came to lunch grew considerably between recess and lunch. Two boys often turned into 20 and it was a case of the more the merrier.

These lunches were a lovely way of getting to know Julius and his mates, and I often thought, there isn’t a place I would rather be than here with my son and his friends at this magnificent school. I often reflect on our privilege and good fortune to be able to access a Joeys education for our son.

We have had some wonderful years watching our son enjoy, and sometimes endure, secondary school.

Throughout this time Julius has been cared for, educated and mentored by the kindest and strongest of people. They have never let him walk alone.

An Old Boy once described Joeys to me as ‘a good place’. This simple phrase encapsulates it for me. It’s hard to understand what makes Joeys so special. There’s the Marist ethos, history, Brothers, teachers, parents, facilities, sport, art and culture. It’s all of this and more. Joeys has soul.

Julius will always be a Joeys Old Boy. This is a source of great pride and the basis of life-long friendships for both him and us. In his time at the school our son has become one of the boys my husband met at the information night so many years ago. He’s now a young man and, keeping true to the Joeys motto, like all Joeys Old Boys, he will continue to strive for better things. www.joeys.org

“It was the boys who changed his heart that evening. It was their manners and enthusiasm.

It was their openness and sense of fun.�

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the cut > THE BEST OF WHERE TO EAT, DRINK AND PL AY

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> The city’s Christmas pageant in the second largest singleday parade in the world (after Macy’s Thanksgiving parade).

JAPA N

PA G E

> In each year, the Land of the Rising Sun consumes some 5 billion helpings of instant ramen noodles.

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UBUD

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> Watch your phone in Ubud’s Monkey Forest – the cheeky Balinese macaques love to snatch things off visitors.

E AT + DRINK

SYDNEY

Nikki To, Dom Cherry Additional words: Sudeshna Ghosh

—For the residents of Australia’s biggest city, eating out is an unofficial sport. The hardest part? Deciding where to go. Alexandra Carlton lists the tastiest options—

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budget

BEN NELO N G

> CORSO BRIO. Beloved European deli in Barangaroo Bel & Brio has just opened a grown-up alter-ego hidden inside the food hall space. Cross the threshold of the wooden door to be transported into an elegant restaurant serving up a seasonal, ingredient-led menu of Italian classics. Get a taste of the chef favourites with the $99 degustation – its highlights include a king prawn and asparagus risotto and fall-offthe-bone lamb shoulder. If you only try one thing, though, make it the spaghetti with Queensland spanner crab – it’s divine. belandbrio.com.au

degustations > BLANCA BAR & DINING.

SWEET STUFF The intricacy displayed in the desserts dished up by MasterChef alumnus Reynold Poernomo at Chippendale’s Koi is worth saving up space for. The five-course dessert

> BENNELONG. Arguably Australia’s most iconic restaurant, housed inside the Sydney Opera House, this Peter Gilmore venue makes fine dining accessible to everyone with its seven-course $75 ‘Cured & Cultured’ chef’s tasting menu. Take a seat at the bar, order a glass or two of champagne and let the tiny but perfectly formed dishes – including their famous upscale sausage roll – come to you. bennelong.com.au

degustation is $65. koidessertbar.com.au

> ESTER. Known all over the city as the place where chefs go to eat, this Chippendale restaurant’s tasting menu lives up to the hype. For $92, Ester’s chef Matt Lindsay serves up quality and creativity in dishes such as a blood sausage ‘sanger’ with steamed milk bread, onion and aioli and a tuna tartare with riberry and black garlic. ester-restaurant.com.au

Whitewashed walls, a chilled Bondi location and six tasting menus under $100 to choose from – with either seven, eight or 10 courses, featuring dishes such as overloaded zucchini crackers with yuzu crème, pickles and parsley or silky shiitake and black garlic dumplings – there’s a lot to love at Blanca. Even better, if you’re dining at lunch any day or all day Sunday, the crew will serve you unlimited bubbles with your degustation for the price of a single glass. blanca.com.au

> BANKSII. This breezy waterfront glamour spot at Barangaroo bills itself as a vermouth bar but most would argue the mod Oz menu is the star of the show. For $79 you can sample their best seasonal dishes – from pasta to charcuterie to their famous trifle. banksii.sydney

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PRIN CE OF YORK

C O O GEE WINE R O O M

best

> BIBO.

> PRINCE OF YORK. This two-storey restaurant, bar and club is all about thoughtful wine and innovative Mediterranean-inflected snacks upstairs – don’t go past their crab spaghetti in a bag with basil and chilli – before you head next door to Pamela’s nightclub to party.

Housed in a grand old former bank in the centre of the city, the interiors are a sexy mix of grunge and glamour and the daily happy hour between 4-6pm has house wines for $10. princeofyork.com.au

BIB O

HEART THIS Sydneysiders love to love Love, Tilly Devine, one of the city’s very first small bars. The menu blends European classics with hints of Japanese flavours such as miso-roasted jerusalem artichokes. lovetillydevine.com

> BART JR. With its corner position in Redfern, one of Sydney’s buzziest suburbs, this is people-watching heaven. That is if you can tear your attention away from some of the best bar snackage in the city. The menu changes often but the Tuesday night pastas like fettuccine with anchovy, fennel and pangrattato or their famous hot sandwiches – a meatball sub one week, charred lamb butty the next but always with crisps and a pickle – never put a foot wrong. bartjr.com.au

> MONOPOLE. At this broody Potts Point venue, it’s as hard to make a decision about what to choose from the 500-strong wine list as it is to decide which of their exceptional charcuterie to try. When in doubt, opt for chef Brent Savage’s tasting menu which includes a selection of cold cuts plus specialties like spatchcock with mushroom and horseradish. monopolesydney.com.au

> COOGEE WINE ROOM. A new addition to the beach suburb, this cosy brick-walled venue oozes a European wine bar-vibe but sandy feet are more than welcome. A wide selection of varietals by the glass mean you can just pop in for a chilled vino straight from the beach, but the compact Mediterranean menu is worth checking out – keep it light with smoked hummus with flatbread or tuck into market fish with gazpacho. coogeewineroom.com.au

Steven Woodburn, Mitchell Ferris

wine bars

Tucked away on a quiet street of Double Bay, this intimate woodpanelled bar is something of a local secret. Come for the curated wine list with more than 400 options from around the world but stay for the delicious Portuguese-inspired food menu. Classics like baccalao (salted cod) croquettes, snapper with asparagus and tomato and the attention-grabbing flambé chorizo will impress. bibowinebar.com.au

Add a little sparkle to your festive season with our new special pizza range FRATELLIFRESH.COM.AU

NSW ALEXANDRIA ∙ BRIDGE ST ∙ CROWS NEST ∙ DARLING HARBOUR ∙ ENTERTAINMENT QUARTER ∙ WESTFIELD SYDNEY | QLD SUNSHINE PLAZA

SY D NE Y

A N AS O N BABYLO N

> THIEVERY. Not everything in this busy hole-inthe-wall in the inner-west suburb of Glebe is completely Middle-Eastern – expect Asian influences in clever fusion dishes such as stir-fried snake beans with Middle Eastern XO and ricotta – but it is all completely delicious. The cocktails work as hard as the food on the flavour front; the vodka-based tea-and-apple scented Wet Rose is a stand-out. thethievery.com.au

more-ish middle eastern > ANASON.

CHEAP AND CHEERFUL For a quick toum, hummus and baba ganoush fix on the run, El Jannah’s chain of charcoal chicken shops, found throughout western Sydney, is the business. eljannah.com.au

> TAYIM. Housed inside one of the historic buildings typical of the Rocks, Tayim focuses on Middle Eastern classics with an Israeli slant, celebrating Australian produce – think grilled Yamba prawns with harissa. The sandstone interiors are atmospheric while the deck is perfect for cocktails and nibbling on the two-person Tayim Plate, with its smooth hummus, crunchy felafel and pickles. tayim.com.au

> NOUR. The 2.0 version of this Surry Hills restaurant, with well-regarded chef Ben Williamson at the helm, takes Lebanese dishes conjured up from the family memories of Ibby Moubadder (of My Kitchen Rules fame) and gives them a modern twist. The felafel crumpet is as Instaworthy as the pastel interiors but there’s more to the menu – wood-fire roasted spatchcock, fried cauliflower with ras el hanout and the best batata harra (spiced fried potatoes) you will have this side of the Levant. noursydney.com

The Barangaroo setting is quintessential Sydney but the food transports you to the alleys of Istanbul (chef Somer Sivrioglu from the acclaimed Efendy is behind Anason).

Authenticity shines through not only in the sharing dishes – from grilled octopus to Hunkar Begendi (lamb loin with leek and iskender sauce) – but also in the Turkish wines and, above all, the warm hospitality. anason.com.au

> BABYLON. In ancient Mesopotamia, Babylon was believed to be the largest city in the world. In modern Sydney, the 1200 square metres that is Babylon restaurant is likely the grandest Middle Eastern-focused eating space in the city – complete with a hanging gardens-inspired living wall.

The menu features everything from a revelatory cabbage kebab to a traditional lamb manti. babylonrooftop.com.au

Steven Woodburn, Charlotte Curd

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Australia meets Italy in this polished waterfront eatery on the foreshore.

Share snacks like Sydney rock oysters at the bar or choose relaxed fine dining in the main restaurant where floor-to-ceiling windows let the harbour views in. Feast on crowdpleasing Italian dishes including burrata with heirloom tomatoes and Wagyu osso buco with pappardelle. angeloscabarita.com.au

> REGATTA ROSE BAY.

REGAT TA R O SE BAY

With its views of millionaires’ yachts, it’s easy to imagine you’re one of the city’s elite as you dine on stracciatella with shaved pear and hazelnuts or grilled Fremantle octopus. For the same top-shelf vistas but something more low-key, head downstairs for a coffee and bacon and egg roll at the tucked-away Tide Café. regattarosebay.com

waterfront restaurants

> BATHERS’ PAVILION. Newly reopened, with fresh interiors that blend coastal blue and whites, Bathers’ is one of those shimmering Sydney experiences everyone must have once, whether it’s for fish and chips from the bistro, champagne and a half dozen oysters at the terrace bar or just grabbing an ice block from the kiosk. In the evenings, you may see owner (something of a local legend) Serge Dansereau mingling with guests enjoying his bouillabaisse or steak tartare on the main restaurant floor. batherspavilion.com.au

> THE NEWPORT. This family- and dog-friendly venue on the Pittwater is something of a Northern Beaches institution. Stop by for a coffee and baked treat in the morning or tuck into wood-fired pizzas and fresh seafood at lunch – everyone will leave happy. On weekends, there are special activities for kids and you can enjoy live music and sundowners on the deck. merivale.com/venues/thenewport

JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O SY D N E Y.

BAT HERS’ PAVIL IO N

FOR A SPECIAL OCCASION Feast on fresh, sustainably sourced seafood while taking in the views with the glam crowd at chic Woolloomooloo restaurant Manta. The seafood risotto is not to be missed. mantarestaurant.com.au

JE T S TA R.C O M

Nikki To

> ANGELO’S CABARITA.

BAT HERS’ PAVIL IO N

> THE COLLAROY. The quintessential beachfront bar, restaurant and pub rolled into one, The Collaroy, in the Northern Beaches suburb of the same name, is a dream spot to grab a beer and a pizza on a lazy afternoon after a day on the sand. Health-conscious locals love the all-day fresh salad bowls and non-alcoholic Seedlip cocktails. merivale.com/venues/thecollaroy

Present your boarding g pass at the ticket counter to receive a 20% discount off entry* ry*

Open Daily from 10am eurekaskydeck.com.au

@eureka_skydeck #eurekaskydeck *Valid for one entry only. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offers. Not Valid for Edge Experience.

The h allll new VR Experience! i Can you make it to the end?

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ADEL AIDE SEASALT

—Time it right and you can eat and drink like royalty: local Alexis Buxton-Collins tours the best places for beer, wine and cocktails – for a handful of loose change—

> UNIBAR The pool table is still there but the venerable bar at the University of Adelaide’s North Terrace campus recently had a facelift and moved downstairs. Student prices mean the eight taps of craft beer are $5 a pint from 4-6pm weeknights and a rotating tap stays at that price all the time. Hand-stretched 12-inch Neapolitan pizza from Vera Pizza Oztalia are $10 on Wednesdays.

D O N ’ T M I S S : Alfresco drinks – just ask the bartenders for a picnic rug and take your tipples out to the grassy area beside the nearby cloisters. adelaide.edu.au/unibar

U NIBAR

> SEASALT This upscale fish and chipper in Henley (think $2 oysters, blue swimmer crab spring rolls and Ortiz anchovy soldiers with salted egg yolk) has a prime spot overlooking one of Adelaide’s favourite suburban beaches. Grab a seat under the striped umbrellas and watch the sun set over the ocean with a beer, wine, cider or gin for $7 from 4-7pm every day.

D O N ’ T M I S S : The daily cocktail specials during the 4-7pm Sunset Sessions. And the $12 millennial pink SeaSalt spritz is always on the menu. seasalthenley.com.au

“JUST ASK T HE BARTEN DERS F OR A PIC NIC RU G A N D TAKE YO UR BESIDE T HE NE ARBY CLOISTERS.”

SEASALT

T IPPLES O U T TO T HE GR ASSY ARE A

SPAG HE T TI WES TERN

Lucy Partington

> SPAGHETTI WESTERN Expect a hip-hop soundtrack and exposed brick walls adorned with pictures of celluloid cowboys in this three-storey CBD Italian-American diner “where Clint Eastwood meets Jay-Z”. The laid-back saloon on the ground floor hosts a happy hour every weekday from 4-7pm with Peroni Red and (usually Italian) wines by the glass for $5, plus complimentary peanuts in the shell.

D O N ’ T M I S S : “Tight Tuesdays” when spaghetti and meatballs go for $8 a serve; best to book in advance. spaghetti-western.com.au

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> GROUND FLOOR AT ELECTRA HOUSE HOTEL

EXE TER H OTEL

Everyone’s welcome at this old-school watering hole in the city’s East End where the original wooden bar fridges are still intact and the only things that have changed in decades are the band posters on the beer garden walls. The wine selection is good but stick to beer when happy hour brings pints down to schooner rates on Tuesday and Thursday from 9-10pm and Sunday from 7-9pm. The kitchen provides upmarket grub: Wednesday is the ever-popular curry night.

D O N ’ T M I S S : A pint of Coopers Pale Ale, Australia’s original craft beer, at the mosaic tables out front. theexeter.com.au

ELEC TR A H O USE H OTEL

> EXETER HOTEL

High ceilings and ornate plasterwork give the heritage-listed former telephone exchange an air of retro class and the central location makes it popular with the after-work crowd.

Daily food and drink specials include $15 for ramen with an Asahi on Tuesday. Friday’s happy hour includes select beers and wines for $6 from 4-7pm and $12 cocktails from 7-8pm.

D O N ’ T M I S S : The exquisite Pornstar Martini which uses Grey Goose vodka infused with Tahitian vanilla beans and comes with a shot of Pol Roger. electrahouse.com.au

> THE MILE END HOTEL Just down the road from Thebarton Theatre in the inner west, this 176year-old pub is the perfect spot for a pre-show drink (or a bed afterwards).

Pints and house wines are $7.50 from 5-6pm Monday and Thursday and all day Tuesday and Wednesday, with $10 cocktails on Friday from 5-7pm and Sunday 2-6pm.

D O N ’ T M I S S : Building your own gin fizz from one of six local gins and a range of fruits and mixers. mileendhotel.com.au

> HARRY’S BAR The Tattersalls building was the tallest in the CBD when it was erected in 1917 and a sense of that grandeur is preserved in the second-storey bar with polished wooden furnishings and floor-to-ceiling blue drapes. You might nab a seat on the chesterfields for select $6 drinks on weeknights from 4-7pm but it’s standing room only for Thursday’s Super Happy Hour from 3-7pm when all drinks except top shelf spirits are $5.

D O N ’ T M I S S : A glass of crisp sav blanc on one of Grenfell Street’s only balconies looking towards the Adelaide Hills. harrysongrenfell.com.au

KENZAN

AUTHENTIC JAPANESE DINING

6

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LL of FAME HA •

2

EXCELLENCE

018 • 2

CERTIFICATE of

7 01

Kenzan Japanese Collins Place, 45 Collins Street, Melbourne +61 (03) 9654 8933 | kenzan.com.au

2015 • 20 1

Visit Kenzan Japanese restaurant for some of the freshest sushi and sashimi dishes in Melbourne, along with daily changing à la carte dishes and surprising specials. The restaurant has been in its current CBD location for 38 years, and is the most awarded Japanese restaurant in Melbourne. Be welcomed by friendly staff for an authentic Japanese dining experience.

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> W H AT IS I T? A magnificent meringue-based dessert made from egg whites, caster sugar, cornflour and white vinegar, topped with lashings of whipped cream and a mountain of fresh seasonal fruit.

> ACE OF BASE It’s often hidden beneath a blanket of cream and fruity toppings but the cloud-like meringue is what truly separates a good pav from a great one. A real ripper has a deliciously crisp and crunchy shell yet remains soft, chewy and almost marshmallow-like on the inside.

> T O T OP I T OFF We can’t forget the flavours and fillings. Pavlovas are a versatile dessert and can be dressed up with all sorts of colourful toppings – imagination is key. But the classic choice is whipped cream and fresh fruit such as strawberries, blueberries and kiwifruit. This combination balances the sweetness of the meringue and richness of the cream with the acidity of the sweet-tart fruit.

> CLE VER C O N S T R U C T IO N

PAVLOVA

AUS/NZ

Pavlovas come in all shapes and sizes. These include the classic platesized round, mini one-person pav and large baking-sheet-sized slab.

In 2018, a Norwegian chef decided bigger was better, and he and his 35 helpers created an 85-metresquare behemoth that used 4200 egg whites and 800 litres of cream.

A N AT O M Y OF A DIS H

The dessert is said to be named after Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova who toured Australia and New Zealand in the 1920s.

> T R A N S-TAS M A N DEBATE

—While the origins of this deliciously sweet, tart and chewy dessert are hotly debated in Australia and New Zealand, everyone agrees that no Christmas feast is complete without a slice (or two!)—

Time-honoured tradition has the Aussies and the Kiwis vying for bragging rights over who created the famed pav. While dates of origin are tossed around (1926 for the Kiwis and 1935 for the Aussies), who made it first remains a sticking point. One thing we can all agree on is you’ll want to go back for more once you’ve cleaned your plate.

W O R D S _ K A I T LY N PA L M E R-A L L E N

> H O N O U R R OLL

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T HE C U T

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> Craft beer and an oozy jaffle. Surely that’s a match made in night-out heaven? At Geelong’s Valhalla Brewing & Taproom, the choice of golden triangles includes the mac and cheese jaffle (pictured), an exotic haloumi with marinated fig and the nostalgic joy of Vegemite and cheese. valhallabrewing.com.au

TOASTFACE GRILL AH > Stilton, pear, cinnamon and lime jam on Italian pagnotta? The Pear Grillz (a riff on the name of derringdo Brit Bear Grylls) is as adventurous as the guy its named after. It’s just one of the taste sensations served up at Perth’s Toastface Grillah, a café that focuses on doing just one thing well – making unique grilled sandwiches that are truly melt-inyour-mouth. Proof these guys have the goods? They have opened a new location in Wolf Lane. toastfacegrillah.com

W H AT'S FOR LUNCH? —Cool cafés, craft beer halls and elegant restaurants alike are succumbing to the comforting appeal of the cheese toastie – but not as you know it— WORDS_ DEBORAH GRUNFELD

FRÉDÉRIC

[ TRENDING]

> Just say ‘oui’ to a French classic. At Frédéric Bar & Bistro in Melbourne, the croque monsieur is haute cuisine grilled cheese. On baguette is bechamel, fennel-spiced sausage and red wine-pickled onions, with a gruyere au gratin. (Another elevated take?

The bone marrow toastie at Sydney’s Prince of York.) frederic.com.au

EXPERIEN CE

Be our guest Eyes shut, I’m almost fully submerged in steamy water within a deep, square, cypress wood bathtub. Fragrance from the wood mingles with the scent from fresh herbs gently bobbing on the surface as a sudden breeze from the open window prompts me to open my eyes and take in the display. Surrounded by nature, the emerald river outside fills most of the windowpane. On the far side of the bank, craggy rocks meet a hillside of densely packed maple trees in varying autumnal hues. A bird of prey soars overhead and I spy a small deer lapping at the water’s edge. I can’t remember the last time I felt this relaxed.

In this era of homogenised hotels, it’s often hard to guess what country you’re in once you’ve checked in. Indeed, globalisation has meant that the “travel high”, which comes from experiencing a culture truly different from our own, is becoming increasingly rare. Yet for

—Japanese inns, or ryokans, have been welcoming weary travellers for hundreds of years. Paul Ewart eases out of modern stresses and soaks up the serenity at one such lodging in Kyoto— travellers in search of authentic cultural immersion (in the case quite literally a traditional Japanese bath), there is hope.

For the uninitiated, a ryokan is an ancient Japanese inn. Once a place for nomadic samurai to rest their weary heads and to reflect, these days ryokans cater to anyone hoping to experience Japan of yesteryear.

Tied into Japanese culture’s respect for “omotenashi” (hospitality), ryokans tend to be serene, infused with ritual, silence and the philosophy of Zen. Indeed, while the country – Tokyo especially – may be synonymous with the fast and futuristic, ryokans are time capsules, where taking things slow is par for the course.

G UES T R O O M

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Hoshino Resorts

GARDEN MEDITATIO N

Though in the past geared towards local travellers, these traditional stays are now on the to-do list for international holidaymakers to Japan.

Responding to this demand are new hybrid ryokans, which fuse traditional elements with additional 21st-century comforts. One of the properties spearheading this trend is upscale ryokan Hoshinoya Kyoto (hoshinoya. com), where I’m staying.

Set among lush forests in the temple-rich Arashiyama district, it is still only nine kilometres from Kyoto’s city centre. Appropriately, Kyoto is the nation’s historic heart. Having been the country’s imperial capital for more than 1000 years, reminders of its royal history remain, alongside an abundance of shrines, temples, teahouses and palaces.

While temple touring in Kyoto is serious (and fascinating) business, getting to Hoshinoya is complete fun.

Embarking on the 15-minute journey, I step aboard a cute wooden motorboat and there’s a palpable sense of leaving the world behind as the Oi River gradually narrows and nature takes over.

3 M O DER N M U S T-V ISI T S Arriving, I’m led by a smiling attendant decked out in traditional garb through cherry blossoms, flowing waterfalls and a Zen rock garden where a huge 400-year-old maple tree takes centre stage. Entering my villa, built in the Meiji era (1868-1912), I’m instructed to remove my shoes in the ‘genkan’ or entryway, and change into slippers.

Inside, the décor is minimal with shoji paper sliding doors, hand-blocked wallpaper and latticed lanterns.

Televisions are refreshingly absent, instead entertainment takes the form of in-room calligraphy sets and an array of traditional activities that showcase artisan skills of yesteryear including “karakami” (woodblock printing), tea ceremonies and “monko” (appreciating incense), which I trial the next morning.

Sitting cross-legged on a tatami mat, an instructor takes me through the ceremony. Essentially, a piece of burning charcoal is buried in ash within a small pot, around which – using several precise tools – you artfully create a mound of the ash, then a small piece of fragrant wood is placed on it, producing a sweet scent as it is warmed.

“Shape the ash like a volcano,” says my instructor, as she flattens the white ash with a tiny silver tool. It’s timeconsuming and is a real exercise in patience and slowing down.

This meditative practice at the end of my stay reminds me what a luxury it is to get the time – and space – to truly think and wonder. A ryokan, it seems, is much more than a room for the night.

> The Thousand Kyoto Opened in January, the city’s newest hotel is minimal and futuristic, from its cavernous atrium lobby of metal, glass and concrete, through to its collection of contemporary art installations. keihanhotels-resorts. co.jp > Before9 Hipsters should make a beeline for this cool craft beer and artisan sake joint. Split across two floors, Before9’s modern open-plan design makes use of plenty of concrete and stark woods. sakahachi.jp > Walden Woods Kyoto So hip it doesn’t even have a sign; this new concept café has a bare, austere aesthetic.

Leading the city’s thirdwave coffee boom, it serves up a killer range of single-origin beans. walden-woods.com

M O NKEY FORES T

M Y PL ACE

—Food lover Janet DeNeefe gives us a taste of the rich culture, delicious cuisine and enviable lifestyle she enjoys in the Balinese hilltop town that she’s called home for more than 30 years—

W O R D S_ R A C H EL G R AY

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JA NE T D e NEEFE

R OYAL PAL ACE

Although she was born in Melbourne, for most of her life Janet DeNeefe has lived in the town of Ubud in the uplands of Bali.

An accomplished businesswoman, Janet has a finger in many pies – she runs the Casa Luna and Indus restaurants (casalunabali.com) and the Honeymoon Guesthouse (honeymoonguesthouse.com) with her husband Ketut Suardana, has written two cookbooks and is also the creator of the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival (ubudwritersfestival.com). Here, she gives us a taste of her hometown.

What is the best thing about living there? > The focus on community and family life. I love the values I see around me – helping each other and sharing is a way of life. It’s a total contrast to Australia where a lot of people prefer living on their own these days.

What’s a typical day for you? > We tend to wake up early in Bali so I’m up about 6am. I do yoga or go to the gym, check my email, then hang out in my Honeymoon Bakery where I supervise the croissants coming out of the oven and ideally eat one!

Where would you send a first-time visitor to Ubud? > The Monkey Forest (monkeyforest ubud.com) – it’s full of monkeys in their natural habitat – and the Royal Palace (Puri Saren Agung) where the royal family still live. Also the 1.5-kilometre Campuhan Ridge Walk has dramatic views of the valley.

Why did you move from Melbourne to Ubud? > For love. I met my husband Ketut on a holiday in Ubud in 1984, we opened our first restaurant here in 1987 and married two years later.

Why is Ubud known as the “cultural capital” of Bali? > Maybe because it has lots of beautiful palaces. Whenever we have ceremonies in Ubud they’re extremely lavish and opulent.

Describe your Bali hometown. > There’s something for everyone. You can stay on the edge of the rice fields or in the middle of town, hang out in a bar or try one of the little eateries.

It’s a charming, picturesque place but the main street can be busy.

What are the three top Balinese flavours according to you? > Chilli, turmeric and lemongrass.

Name one traditional dish everyone must try. > Suckling pig cooked on a spit over coffee wood that burns slowly and adds a light fragrance. It’s basted with turmeric oil to make the crackling golden and crisp. The meat is tender and drop-dead delicious.

JANET’S TOP LOCAL EATS > W A R U N G M EK J U EL Try the betutu ayam (slow-roasted chicken) with urab (vegetables with roasted coconut).

On the edge of Ubud, in Sayan village, it’s a truly authentic Balinese eating experience. > W A R U N G IB U O K A Once visited by the late Anthony Bourdain, this Ubud institution is famous for babi guling (suckling pig). It’s the perfect pit stop after a visit to the Palace, which is just across the road. > PIC A S O U T H A M ER IC A N K I T C H EN This cute eatery serves delicious Peruvian food.

Their ceviche is perfect for Ubud’s tropical climate. You’ll find it on bustling Jalan Dewi Sita in the centre of town. picakitchen.com

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—We We made a list and checked it twice so you won’t be stuck for what to put under the tree. Naughty and nice, it’s the perfect-present guide— guide—

UT H O

Santa Claus is coming to town!

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Indulge

Pamper the ones you love with thoughtful gifts that will leave them feeling fabulous

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01. Ecoya mini hand cream bonbon in Sweet Pea & Jasmine, $12.95, ecoya.com.au 02. Clear Skincare Vitamin C serum, $45, priceline.com.au 03. Aceology rose quartz double roller, $69, aceology.co 04. Huskee 8oz cup with lid in charcoal, $18, coffeealchemy.com.au 05. Lanolips 101 Ointment limited edition bauble, $18.95, mecca.com.au 06. The Beauty Chef ‘Well Spray Inner Beauty Support’, $29, thebeautychef.com 07. T2 ‘Sleep Tight’ loose leaf everyday refill, $36 for 120g, t2tea.com 08. Bondi Wash Purifying Night Balm, $50, bondiwash. com.au 09. Lululemon The Reversible Mat 3mm in Vintage Plum/Antoinette, $69, lululemon.com.au

GIF T G UIDE

Plug in

The latest in smart gadgets make for gifts that will wow the tech-lovers in your life 02

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01. Fitbit ‘Charge 3’ fitness tracker in Rose Gold/Blue Grey, $168, harveynorman.com.au 02. Instax mini link smartphone printer, $169, harveynorman.com.au 03. Canon ‘IXUS 190’ compact digital camera, $228, jbhifi.com.au 04. Sennheiser HD 4.30i over-ear headphones in white, $179, jbhifi.com.au 05.Belkin ‘Pocket Power’ 10,000mAh power bank in black, $30, dicksmith.com.au 06. Laser wireless earphones, $29, bigw.com.au 07. Bang & Olufsen ‘Beoplay P2’ speaker in black, $250, davidjones.com 08. Incipio ‘NGP Pure’ case for iPhone 11, $29, kogan.com 09. Black Eye Combo G4 lens pack, $99.95, blackeyelens.com

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Stocking fillers, Secret Santa ideas or a gift for someone who has it all – these little things pack a big punch 01

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01. Dear Addison ‘Halo’ necklace in yellow gold, $29.95, theiconic.com.au 02. Aēsop Resurrection Aromatique hand balm, $33 for 75ml, aesop.com 03. Kikki K ‘Signature Edition’ luggage tag in Maple, $17.99, kikki-k.com 04. Marimekko ‘Mini Unikko’ smartbag, $40, marimekko.com 05. Typo ‘Alphabet Anytime’ mug, $6.99, cottonon.com 06. Havaianas ‘Top Tiras’ thongs in rose gold, $25, havaianasaustralia.com.au 07. MiGoals 2020 Diary in Kraft, $22.95, milligram.com 08. Tesalate ‘Into the Wild’ towel, $79, au.tesalate.com 09. Maison Balzac ‘Le Soir’ candle, $29 for mini, maisonbalzac.com

A DV ER T ISIN G PR O M O T IO N

Google Nest Hub $199

> Relive the moment. Use your voice to show any picture you’ve ever taken in Google Photos. Just say, “Hey, Google, show me my photos of Bali”, and see your holiday memories from Google Photos appear. And with Live Albums, you can always view the latest photos of loved ones – all of this on an elegant display that blends into any room. g.co/hub/explore

Made In Earth Amethyst & Fluorite Earrings $325 > Made In Earth is dedicated to bringing our clientele a selection of high-quality stones from extremely rare to wellknown favourites. Our one-of-a-kind jewellery has its own unique story and serves as a reminder of the beauty of our natural world. These stunning drops feature handcrafted gems of amethyst paired with fluorite. A staple for any collection – and the perfect addition to your next ensemble. madeinearth.com.au

Pierre Cardin Rustic Leather Business/Overnight Bag $245.95

> Stand out from the travel pack with this rustic overnight bag. Classic, durable and perfect for both weekenders and as a companion to your luggage, it features an embossed logo badge, smooth zipped main compartment, detachable and adjustable shoulder straps and handy inside and front and back zip pockets so you can stay organised – and stylish – on-the-go. orquestra.com.au

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Kids will love to find these under the tree – and they’ll keep ’em cool over the long summer hols...

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01. ‘Rainbow’ drink bottle, $19.95, seedheritage.com 02. ‘Chill Ice Lolly’ lie-on float, $69.95, myer.com.au 03. Sunnylife ‘Fouta’ hooded towel in Caribbean, $39.95, sunnylife.com.au 04. Pool speaker, $69.95, seedheritage.com 05. Kmart ‘Rainbow’ kids headphones , $10, kmart.com.au 06. TK Maxx ‘Unicorn’ backpack, $24.95, tkmaxx.com.au 07. Instax ‘Mini 9’ camera in Ice Blue, $88, officeworks.com.au 08. Sunnylife foam beach paddles in turquoise, $34.95, sunnylife.com.au 09. Monopoly ‘Deal’ card game, $10, woolworths.com.au

A DV ER T ISIN G PR O M O T IO N

Victorinox Alliance with Pioneer Swiss Army Knife $949

> Classic and timeless in design, this Victorinox Swiss Army, Swiss-made watch suits any occasion.

With a Swiss-made case crafted from high-grade stainless steel (316L), this is a timepiece that offers generously sized hands and pyramidal markers for effortless time readability, and is delivered with an assorted Victorinox Alox Swiss Army Knife. swisstimehq.com.au +61 (3) 9500 8894

Byron Bay Beachlife Beach Shade $179

> The ultimate in chic and functional sun protection, a Byron Bay Beachlife Beach Shade won’t block your view or breeze, while still providing the highest-rated UV protection for the whole family. This Australian-designed product is built to last, and there are several great patterns to choose from. Shop online for fast delivery. byronbaybeachlife.com.au

Status Anxiety Plunder Bag $169.95 > Status Anxiety is a Sydney-based leather goods brand that creates beautiful and minimalist leather goods for the everyday.

All of their products are designed in a conscious way, using natural and ethically sourced materials, from their small studio in Sydney. Their Plunder bag (right) is a unique gift option this Christmas that’s perfect for travel and won’t cost the earth. statusanxiety.com.au

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the insider > JETSTAR NEWS, ENTERTAINMENT AND MAPS

SEOUL PAG E

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> Keep up to date with Jetstar news and our StarKids charity.

Plus, go behind the scenes with our staff profiles.

EN T ERTA IN MEN T

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> Let us entertain you with a huge selection of movies, TV shows, podcasts, music videos and much more.

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> Heading from the airport to the city centre? Use our guide to find out the best way to get there by bus, train or taxi.

VISION OF HOPE Vulnerable Asian children are building a better future for themselves with the support of StarKids and World Vision. By Kervin Mathew.

> Knot’s friends call him “Supphakit”, or Superkid. At 14, he’s lesser in

physical stature than children his age but makes up for it in character and personality. Living near the Thailand-Cambodia border with his family, Knot is seen regularly helping his mother with her tiny food stall.

His family’s financial situation is tough but he might just be their hope.

After becoming a sponsored child through World Vision, Knot was able to access good education and develop critical life skills; helping him realise his potential to take on responsibilities for himself, his family and community. Knot went on to make the most of this opportunity.

“I’ve learnt about different rights of the child such as the right to development and the right to participation. I’ve also been educated in anti-human trafficking and ending violence against children and participated in training on prevention and solutions for the teen mum problem,” says Knot. Along with his friends, the determined young boy has attended youth leadership skills training, an initiative aimed at enabling children to protect themselves and other kids from the common risks they face and work towards building a better society.

Led by their own Superkid and with the support of World Vision’s staff, the children have formed a child protection group aimed at tackling the challenges faced by kids and youth in their community – which range from the absence of children’s rights to the risk of drug abuse.

Through his endeavours, Knot’s family is seeing positive changes.

Despite gruelling days at work, his mother draws inspiration from him.

“I’m so proud of my son because he’s a good kid. He sets a good example and is always helpful to his friends. This encourages me to keep fighting for my kid, no matter how exhausted I feel,” she says.

HELP THEM REACH NEW HEIGHTS THIS CHRISTMAS WITH A JETSTAR GIFT CARD. It’s the perfect present for everyone – because who doesn’t want to travel more! Gift cards come in $50 and $100 options and are now available online at jetstar.com.

EAT DRAW LOVE We are pleased to introduce a fresh menu this month, which includes two delicious new options from SumoSalad – a gluten-friendly vegan meal and a noodle dish (above) that can be served hot or cold.

Those travelling with kids should check out the brandnew activity pack, which features a draw-string backpack (below) that you can colour in! Don’t forget to bundle it with a kids’ snack pack that includes Messy Monkeys’ burger-flavoured bites and fruit bar.

Look for the new items in the menu in your seatback pocket. Remember, stocks are limited on the flight, so to avoid disappointment, be sure to pre-purchase your meals and other items with your next booking. Then sit back and enjoy your trip.

Piapt Sereechussana

KN OT’S PAREN TS MANAGE TO KEEP T HEIR FAMILY AL IVE SELL ING FO O D FRO M STREE T STALLS.

Jetstar news

T HE IN SIDER

SEOUL CHEAT SHEET Flying to South Korea? Here are a few tips to get you moving around the capital.

RAILROAD EXPRESS ( AREX )

EAT LIKE A LOCAL KIMCHI

BIBIMBAP

FERMENTED VEGIE SIDE-DISH

MIXED VEGIES, BEEF & RICE

BULGOGI

HOEDDOEK

MARINATED BEEF BBQ

SWEET SYRUPY PANCAKES

T HE M O S T C O M M O N KOREA N EAT IN G U TENSILS ARE SL IM ME TAL C H OPS T ICKS A ND A SP O O N

TIME TO VISIT SEOUL

45 MINS AUD $15

TIME IT TAKES TO SEOUL, FROM INCHEON AIRPORT COST FOR A ONEWAY ADULT TICKET TO THE CITY

1 AUD = 800 WON

$$$

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THE OFFICIAL L ANGUAGE IS HANGUL, WHICH IS ALSO COMMONLY REFERRED TO AS KOREAN. HERE ARE SOME COMMON WORDS AND PHRASES TO PRACTICE BEFORE YOU GO.

Hello/Goodbye A N-N Y EONG-H A-SE-YO Thank you K A M-S A-H A M-NI-DA Excuse me/just a moment JA M-SHI-M A N-YO Please (Please give) JU-SE-YO

IT’S NOT CONSIDERED CUSTOMARY TO TIP IN SOUTH KOREA

How much is it?

OL-M A-Y E-YO I can’t speak Korean well H A N-GUK-M A L JA L MO T-H A E-YO

KOREAN TOUR CARD

You’re welcome A HN-EE-AY-OH English?

Y UHNG-OH?

WHAT Transportation Card COST 4000 KRW (about AUD $5) WHERE TO BUY Subway ticket booth or convenience store HOW TO USE Top up with money as you go and use it to pay for bus, train and taxi rides

Yes Y EH No A HN-NEE-YO

SPR I N G

S U M M ER

AUTUMN

W I N T ER

M A R C H – M AY 0 –24˚ C

JUNE – AUGUST 16 –29˚ C

SEP T – N O V 0 –27˚ C

D EC – FEB -6 –7˚ C

JE T S TA R’S DIREC T FL IG H T S BE T W EEN G OL D C O A S T A N D SEO UL TA K E OFF T H IS M O N T H

STAR PERFORMER

> Jetstar’s new Airbus A321neo (LR) is a game changer.

Taking off from August 2020, the aircraft will be capable of a longer flight range – 1200 km more than the current generation – and seat 232 passengers.

“With 15 per cent fuel saving, our new NEOs offer maximum comfort for the lowest fare,” Jetstar Group CEO Gareth Evans says. “Combining a smaller environmental footprint together with wider ergonomic seats, greater stowage and in-flight streaming for personal devices, we think customers are going to love them.”

SkyBus. Now stopping

MORE than ever.

AVALON

MELBOURNE

GOLD COAST

BYRON BAY

HOBART

AUCKLAND

Still delivering the best service at the lowest prices.

Find out more at skybus.com.au

FREE

WiFi

UNLIMITED

LUGGAGE

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In-flight Entertainment —Take off into a world of entertainment – we’ve rounded up today’s most talked-about movies and TV shows, plenty of kids’ favourites, plus hit music and podcasts to keep you occupied throughout your flight— MORE THAN 60 MOVIES AND 500 TV EPISODES AVAILABLE

ONLY $13 BLOCKBUSTER MOVIES TV COMEDY AND DRAMA KIDS’ FAVOURITES HIT MUSIC PODCASTS

> NEW RELEASE MOVIES.

© 2019 100 to 1 Films Pty Ltd

The Operative

Ride Like a Girl

Thriller Follows Rachel, a rogue spy from Israel’s national intelligence force.

Drama | MA15+ Michelle dreams of winning the Melbourne Cup. A family tragedy all but ends the dream.

© 2019 Universal City Studios Productions LLLP. All rights reserved.

Fast and Furious Presents: Hobbs & Shaw Action | M Sworn enemies must team up to take down a cyber-genetically enhanced anarchist. © 2019 Disney

The Lion King Family | PG “The Lion King” brings beloved characters to life in a whole new way.

© 2018 CTMG, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Once Upon a Time… in Hollywood Crime | MA15+ The ninth film from Quentin Tarantino.

RATINGS

© 2019 CTMG, Inc. All Rights Reserved. © 2019 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.

Ad Astra Drama | M Roy McBride travels to the outer edges of the solar system to find his father.

Angry Birds Movie 2 Animation | PG The angry birds and scheming pigs take their beef to the next level.

G General.

PG Parental guidance recommended.

M Recommended for mature audiences.

MA15+ Not suitable for people under 15.

Under 15s must be accompanied by a parent or adult guardian.

PRE-PURCHASE IN-FLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT WHEN YOU BOOK YOUR FLIGHTS AND SAVE!

© 2019 WBEI

> NEW RELEASE MOVIES.

© 2019 WBEI

The Kitchen Crime | MA15+ Three Hell’s Kitchen housewives’ mobster husbands are sent to prison by the FBI.

> HOLIDAY FAVOURITES.

Luce Drama A married couple is forced to reckon with their idealised image of their son.

© 2019 WBEI

Shaft

A Christmas Story

Fred Claus

Comedy | G Ralphie wants an air rifle.

He campaigns for the most fabulous Christmas present.

Comedy | PG Santa Claus’ older brother, Fred, almost destroys Christmas.

National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation

Miracle on 34th Street (1994)

Comedy | M Clark Griswold’s neighbourhood will never be the same.

Family | G Susan meets Kris Kringle, a department store Santa who believes he’s genuine.

Four Christmases

Elf

Comedy | M A well-planned day spins out of control into the whirlwind of Four Christmases.

Comedy | G Raised an elf, Buddy grows into an adult and realizes that he will never fit in.

© 2019 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation.

All rights reserved.

Action | MA15+ JJ may be a security expert, but he needs an education only his dad can provide.

© 2019 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.

The Art of Racing in the Rain

Home Alone

Comedy, Drama A dog named Enzo recalls the life lessons he has learned from his owner, Denny.

Family | PG Kevin is left to defend his home from two burglars until the relatives return.

EN T ER TA IN MEN T

> FAVOURITES.

© 2019 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.

© 2019 WBEI

The Devil Wears Prada

Beetlejuice

Comedy | PG A young woman ends up as assistant to the editor of a major fashion magazine.

Comedy | M When a couple of nice ghosts try to haunt humans, they ask for help.

© 2019 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.

© 2019 WBEI

Tim Burton’s Corpse Bride

Edward Scissorhands

Comedy, Drama | PG A young man weds a corpse while on a trek to the village of his real bride.

Drama | PG About Edward Scissorhands whose hands were cold, but whose heart was warm.

> FOREIGN FILMS.

© 2019 Five Million Dollar Life Film Partners

Kakegurui The Movie Thriller A student finds herself in a gambling battle to win a place on the council.

Detective Conan: The Fist of Blue Sapphire Animation The world ‘s largest sapphire was lost at sea.

5 Million Dollar Life Drama Mirai’s life belongs to those who invested. He sets out to pay it back.

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> TELEVISION.

© 2019 WBEI

© 2019 WBEI

Veronica Mars (2019) (Season 1)

iZombie (Season 5)

Drama | M In the wealthy community of Neptune, the rich make the rules. They are trying to keep their dirty secrets just that...secret. Unfortunately for them, there’s Veronica Mars, a private investigator.

Drama | MA15+ Our heroes try to keep the peace in the zombie state that is New Seattle, but with starving zombies on one side and terrified humans on the other, they’ll have their work cut out for them.

© 2019 Disney

© 2019 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All rights reserved.

© 2019 WBEI

Kim’s Convenience (Season 3)

Big Hero 6: The Series (Season 1)

Activate: The Global Citizen Movement

Animal Kingdom (Season 4)

Comedy | M The funny story of the Kim family and their downtown convenience store.

Kids | G Hiro, Baymax and team protect the city from villains.

Lifestyle | PG A documentary on Global Citizen’s efforts to eradicate extreme poverty.

Drama | MA15+ The Cody family will be a threat to each other as they are to their targets.

© 2019 Disney

DuckTales (Season 1) Kids | G Join Scrooge and family on globetrotting adventures!

© 2019 Disney

Disney Tsum Tsum (Season 3) Kids | G The Tsums create collectible memories of themselves.

© 2019 FX Productions, LLC. All rights reserved. MARVEL TM & © 2019 MARVEL

Legion (Seasons 1-3) Drama | MA15+ The story of David Haller, a man who is the most powerful mutant.

© 2019 Disney

Big City Greens (Season 1) Kids | G The Green family moves from the country to Big City.

EN T ER TA IN MEN T

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> MUSIC VIDEOS.

> ALBUMS.

Guy Sebastian

The Kids Are Coming Tones and I

Fear Inoculum Tool

Former Melbourne busker and Byron Bay local Toni Watson AKA ‘Tones and I’ releases her ARIA number one EP The Kids Are Coming.

Includes the hits “Dance Monkey”, “Johnny Run Away” and “Never Seen The Rain”.

Tool’s first album in 13 years was released to critical acclaim, with reviewers agreeing that the band had successfully refined their established sound. Enjoy your flight and for those about to rock, we salute you.

III The Lumineers

No Need to Argue: The Complete Sessions 1994–1995 The Cranberries

The Lumineers have taken their latest album, III, as an opportunity to shine a light on a topic that’s close to many of the members’ lives – addiction. As the album runs from one song to the next, it’s a tale of a family facing the same problem.

> PODCASTS & RADIO.

Jonesy & Amanda

No Need to Argue is the second studio album by the Irish rock band The Cranberries. This contains the band’s most successful singles, such as “Zombie”, and four bonus tracks.

The Bump The Hits WSFM Pure Gold ChillZone Will & Woody Jonesy & Amanda Aussies in Hollywood The Mentor with Mark Bouris: Elle Ferguson – Elle Effect

New Hits Various The freshest new clips from today’s biggest artists featuring Miley Cyrus, Guy Sebastian, Shawn Mendes, Liam Payne, Boogie Wit da Hoodie, Halsey, Mark Ronson & King Princess.

00s + 10s Various Millennium hits for you to enjoy featuring Silverchair, The Veronicas, Leona Lewis, Katy Perry, Pharrell Williams, Bruno Mars, Beyonce and more noughties and tens.

90s Various Lenny Kravitz, The Fugees, The Soup Dragons, Britney Spears, Daryl Braithwaite, T.L.C. and Backstreet Boys are just some of the nineties music artists included in this Hit List.

80s Various Featuring awesome 80’s clips from George Michael, The Police, Cyndi Lauper, Lionel Ritchie, the Clash, Whitney Houston, Style Council and Bryan Adams.

Adam Shand at Large: The Real Chopper Part 2 The Slow Home Podcast: Brooke & Ben McAlary Osher Gunsberg Podcast: Stan Grant I Don’t Know How She Does It Girls: Jade Hameister Feed Play Love: Shevonne Hunt

Hitched: The Art Of Hiring A Wedding Planner True Crime Conversations: The Lady Vanishes The Property Couch: Bryce Holdaway and Ben Kingsley Fitzy & Wippa Kennedy Molloy

SYDNEY. >

TAXI ABOUT $45

>

>

AIRPORT TO CIT Y Touching down in a new city?

Here's how to get to the centre of the action your way.

>

TIP...

The Experience WA smartphone app gives you access to the latest information on local tourist attractions, restaurants, accommodation, transport options and more.

> TIP...

Trains and buses from the airport start around 5am daily and end at midnight.

TAXI ABOUT $30

>

>

>

> BUS $5.80 While it does not head into the CBD, Route 400 operates between Bondi Junction in the city’s east and Burwood in the west.

You can catch the bus from outside the T1 International and T3 Domestic terminals.

>

TAXI ABOUT $40

BUS $4.80 Bus Route 380, which takes its name from the Airbus A380 aircraft, departs T1 and T2 and is a limited stops service, terminating at Elizabeth Quay Bus Station in the city centre.

For those travelling from T3 and T4, Route 40 operates daily between the airport and Elizabeth Quay Bus Station.

TRAIN $18.70 Catching a train into the city is easy and takes about 10 minutes. Grab the T8 Airport and South Line towards City Circle, which stops at Central Station.

ADELAIDE.

PERTH.

“I TAKE A COOKING CLASS EVERYWHERE I TRAVEL. I FIND IT’S THE BEST WAY TO GET TO KNOW A CULTURE.” BLAKE LIVELY (AMERICAN ACTRESS)

MELBOURNE. (TULLAMARINE)

BUS $10.40 (DAYTRIP) The JetBus and doubledecker JetExpress airport to city services depart the terminal from Sir Richard Williams Avenue and stop at Currie Street in the city centre. From there, it is just a short walk to Adelaide Oval, Rundle Mall and the city’s main train station on North Terrace.

> TIP...

If you are staying in the city of churches for the weekend, purchase a $25 Metrocard Visitor Pass.

The ticket gives tourists unlimited travel on buses, trains and trams across three consecutive days.

TAXI ABOUT $65

>

BUS $19.75 The Skybus Melbourne City Express departs the airport every 10 minutes and stops at the busy inner city Southern Cross Station. From there, you can catch another bus, train, tram or slip into a cab at the taxi stand located directly outside on Spencer Street.

> TIP...

Explore the CBD onboard the free City Circle tourist tram between 10am and 9pm from Thursday to Saturday and between 10am and 6pm from Sunday to Wednesday.

MELBOURNE. (AVALON)

> TAXI ABOUT $130 TO MELBOURNE, $50 TO GEELONG >

BUS $24 TO MELBOURNE, $11 TO GEELONG The SkyBus Avalon City Express takes about an hour to travel from Avalon Airport to Southern Cross Station in Melbourne CBD. If you are heading to Geelong, the SkyBus Avalon Geelong Express takes about 40 minutes to reach the port town.

> TIP...

Download the handy Avalon Airport smartphone app for information about transport, car hire, parking and flight schedules.

T HE IN SIDER

BRISBANE.

GOLD COAST.

LAUNCESTON.

>

>

>

TAXI ABOUT $45

TAXI ABOUT $60

> TRAIN $18.50 The Airtrain is a quick and easy option for travelling from the airport into the city. Trains depart every 15 minutes during peak hour and every 30 minutes during off-peak periods.

The Airtrain takes just 20 minutes to get to Central Station in the city centre.

The service starts at 5am on weekdays and 6am on weekends and the last train departs at 10pm.

> BUS From $15 (adults) and $2 (children) The daily SkyBus Gold Coast Airport Shuttle is a dedicated service for visitors travelling from the airport to the Gold Coast’s most popular tourist spots. The shuttle departs from outside the airport terminal and stops at Burleigh Heads, Broadbeach and Surfers Paradise.

> TIP...

Download the BNE app to help you find transport options, maps, where to dine and shop, parking information and more.

> TIP...

Gold Coast Cabs offer special flat rate fares from the airport to Surfers Paradise ($65) or Broadbeach ($55).

TOWNSVILLE. >

TAXI ABOUT $30

> BUS $10 The Townsville Shuttle Service meets all major flights seven days a week, and drives passengers to their hotel, motel or to the Sealink and Fantasea ferry terminals. Otherwise, you can also book online via their website shuttletsv. com.au. > TIP...

Don’t be caught shortchanged. If grabbing a taxi, be sure to keep a spare $3 in your pocket for the Airport Toll, which goes towards upgrades such as CCTV, kerb front facilities and taxi waiting areas.

“THE THING I LOVE MOST ABOUT TRAVELLING IS YOU CAN GO TO A PLACE YOU’VE NEVER BEEN, WHERE NOBODY KNOWS YOUR NAME AND YOU CAN BE ANYONE YOU WANT TO BE. ON MY LAST TRIP I WAS A PLUMBER FROM YARRAWONGA [VICTORIA] NAMED GENEVIEVE.” STEPHEN CURRY (AUSTRALIAN ACTOR)

“THERE ARE NO FOREIGN LANDS. IT IS THE TRAVELLER ONLY WHO IS FOREIGN.” ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON (SCOTTISH AUTHOR)

149

TAXI ABOUT $38

>

BUS $15 The Airport Shuttlebus parks outside the entrance and waits for every incoming flight, or you can book online via their website. The friendly highvis vested drivers wait to drive you to hotels and motels in the CBD, which takes about 20 minutes.

> TIP...

The Apple Isle has some of the toughest biosecurity laws in the world, so make sure you check that fig, fish or ferret is cleared through customs before leaving the mainland. Any soil or weeds or weed seeds are also out the window.

BALLINA.

DARWIN.

> TAXI ABOUT $100 TO BYRON BAY

>

>

BUS $7.20 The Route 640 bus from Ballina Airport takes close to an hour to make the 37-kilometre journey to the popular beachside town of Byron Bay.

> TIP...

If you prefer to have your transport organised and booked in advance, check out the Ballina Byron Gateway Airport website for information about shuttle bus services.

For those who want to explore and find their own way, all major car rental companies are represented at the airport.

TAXI ABOUT $30

>

BUS PRICE ON BOOKING The Darwin City Airport Shuttle Service is available seven days a week to take you from the airport to your accommodation in the city. The shuttle departs every 20 minutes during peak period and services all major flights to the airport. Online bookings must be made 24 hours in advance.

> TIP...

If you are staying at the Mercure Darwin Airport Resort or Novotel Darwin Airport Hotel, a free shuttle bus service is available for transfer from the terminal to your accommodation.

BALI. >

TOKYO. “I ENJOY THE PREPARATORY ELEMENTS OF TRAVEL – PACKING MY BAGS AND CHOOSING MY OUTFITS – BUT MY FAVOURITE PART IS GETTING THERE.” DOMINIC MONAGHAN (ENGLISH ACTOR)

TAXI ABOUT $7 TO KUTA

>

BUS $2 There are a range of bus options to choose from but a popular choice is the bright green Kura-Kura tourist bus, which stops at most major locations across the island. The closest departure point to the airport is outside the Aston Kuta Hotel, which is a brisk 16-minute walk from the terminal.

>

TAXI ABOUT $10

> BUS $1 The Route 109 bus departs the airport every 15 to 20 minutes between 5.30am and 1am. The bus travels to the city centre (District 1), terminating at 23/9 Park via Pham Ngu Lao backpacker district and the Ben Thanh bus station.

Travel time depends on traffic, but the yellow bus generally takes about 30 minutes to reach the city. > TIP...

Show the name of your hotel to the bus conductor so the driver can tell you where to get off. It is also handy to have a map available on your phone.

>

>

>

TRAIN $37 The Narita Express or N’EX departs every 25 to 40 minutes and takes under an hour to reach Tokyo Station. Buy your ticket at JR EAST Travel Service Centers, which are located inside each of the three airport terminals.

> TIP...

Grab the free shuttle to travel between the airport’s three terminals.

SINGAPORE. >

> BUS $9 The City Shuttle bus departs every 15 minutes during peak periods and every 30 minutes during off-peak. The trip to the city takes 25 minutes and stops at most major hotels. >

TIP...

Save your roaming budget and connect to the free Wi-Fi at Changi Airport.

TAXI ABOUT $40

> TRAIN $10.40 The Maglev train runs from 6.30am to 9.45pm and reaches Longyang Road Subway Station in a speedy eight minutes. >

BUS $5 Catch the Airport Line 5 bus to the main Shanghai Railway Station. It leaves every 15-25 minutes from 6.30am to 11pm.

> TIP...

Use Google Translate and write your name in Mandarin on paper to make it easier for taxi drivers to understand.

PHNOM PENH. (PHNOM PENH INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT)

TAXI ABOUT $35

> TRAIN $2 The Changi Airport MRT Station (CG2) is located under Terminal 2. Take the train to Tanah Merah station and change to the East West Line heading towards City Hall.

SHANGHAI. (SHANGHAI PUDONG INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT)

TAXI ABOUT $250

> BUS $11 The Keisei group’s Tokyo Shuttle takes 90 minutes to reach the city centre near Tokyo Station.

> TIP...

Knowing how to say a few phrases in the local lingo can go a long way in Bali.

To ask a local to help you call for a taxi, try saying, “Bisa tolong untuk telepon dan order taksi?”

HO CHI MINH CITY.

(NARITA AIRPORT)

“EXPLORE THE WORLD WITH AN OPEN MIND, A STURDY CARRY-ON AND CLOTHES THAT DON’T WRINKLE.” MADELEINE ALBRIGHT (AMERICAN POLITICIAN AND DIPLOMAT)

>

TAXI ABOUT $18

>

BUS $7.40 The KK Star Airport Bus departs from the busy Russian Federation Boulevard located in front of the airport carpark.

From there, it’s a 30 to 60 minute trip to the city.

> TRAIN $3.70 The Shuttle Train chugs off every 30 minutes from the airport, taking passengers to the city centre. > TIP...

Download the Pass App from which you can order taxis and tuk tuks and get an estimated fare.

A IRP O R T T O CI T Y

AUCKLAND. >

TAXI ABOUT $60

> BUS $17 The SkyBus departs the airport every 10 minutes and takes approximately 55 minutes to arrive in the centre of Auckland.

Alternatively, Super Shuttle can take you straight to your accommodation for $23 for the first passenger and $9 for every extra passenger travelling in the same group. >

TIP...

The Auckland Transport mobile app makes it easy to move around the city.

Download the app to help you plan and track AT Metro buses, trains and ferry services in real time.

QUEENSTOWN. >

TAXI ABOUT $25

> BUS $5 The Orbus departs the airport every 15 minutes and takes approximately 25 minutes to reach the town centre. For $13, you can opt to share an 11-seater Super Shuttle for a convenient, tailored door-to-door journey from Queenstown Airport to your accommodation. > TIP...

If your accommodation is anywhere in the centre of Queenstown, you can simply rely on foot power to get around – most things in the adventure capital are within easy walking distance.

BANGKOK.

151

HONOLULU.

(BANGKOK INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT)

(DANIEL K INOUYE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT)

>

> TAXI ABOUT $61 TO WAIKIKI

TAXI ABOUT $25

>

TRAIN $7 The Airport Rail Link departs every 15 minutes between 6am to midnight and is about 30 minutes to Makkasan Station in the heart of Bangkok.

>

BUS $7.20 The Route AE-4 Shuttle Bus goes from Bangkok Airport to the bus interchange in central Bangkok near Hua Lumphong train station.

> TIP...

Avoid offers for rides from hawkers. Your best bet is to order a cab from the Taxi Kiosks instead.

>

BUS $4 Routes 19 and 20 depart from the second-level roadway at Honolulu Airport and stop off at downtown Honolulu, Ala Moana Shopping Centre and the hotel-dense Waikiki precinct.

> TIP...

Taxi drivers are referred to as “ambassadors of aloha”.

They are proud of their island and love pointing out landmarks and places of interest. Ask questions – you never know what local secrets you might learn.

W HE RE W E F LY Here’s how to get around our network – have fun planning your next trip.

INTERNATIONAL. Seoul Xuzhou Hefei

Shanghai (Pudong) Osaka (Kansai)

Tokyo (Narita) Nagoya (Chubu)

Okinawa Guiyang

Taipei

Guangzhou Hanoi

Shantou/Jieyang Hong Kong Haikou

Tho Xuan Vinh Chiang Mai Dong Hoi

Da Nang Siem Reap Bangkok Phnom Penh

Yangon

Phuket Penang Medan

Hawaii (Honolulu)

Clark

Manila

Ho Chi Minh City

Phu Quoc

Kuala Lumpur

Singapore Jakarta Surabaya

Bali (Denpasar) Darwin Fiji (Nadi)

Cairns

Cook Islands (Rarotonga)

Brisbane

Gold Coast

Perth

Sydney Adelaide

Auckland

Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Wellington Christchurch

Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Jetstar Asia Operated by Jetstar Pacific Operated by Jetstar Japan

Queenstown

T HE IN SIDER

DOMESTIC VIETNAM.

153

DOMESTIC JAPAN.

Hanoi Sapporo

Hai Phong Thanh Hoa Vinh

Shonai

Dong Hoi Nagoya (Chubu)

Hue Da Nang Chu Lai

Matsuyama Osaka Fukuoka Takamatsu Nagasaki Oita Kochi Kumamoto Miyazaki Kagoshima

Quy Nhon

Pleiku

Tokyo (Narita) (Kansai)

Tuy Hoa Buon Ma Thuot Nha Trang Da Lat

Okinawa

Ho Chi Minh City

Phu Quoc

Miyako (Shimojishima)

Operated by Jetstar Pacific

Operated by Jetstar Japan

AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND.

Auckland

Darwin Cairns Townsville Hamilton Whitsunday Coast Island Mackay

Wellington Queenstown

Sunshine Coast

Ayers Rock (Uluru)

Brisbane Gold Coast

Christchurch Dunedin Operated by Jetstar Airways

Ballina Byron

Perth

Newcastle Busselton Margaret River

Sydney

Adelaide

Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Auckland

Melbourne (Avalon)

Flights are operated by Jetstar Airways and commence 25 March 2020 (Melbourne–Busselton Margaret River), subject to regulatory approval Operated by Jetstar Airways

Wellington

Launceston Hobart

Christchurch Queenstown

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© Lovatts Puzzles

PICTURE A

PICTURE B

QUIZ 1 In the traditional carol “The Twelve Days of Christmas”, what is given on the fifth day?

2 Australian department store David Jones was founded by a Welsh merchant. In what year did the store first open its doors?

3 Which New Zealand town sits on the shores of Lake Wakatipu?

4 Ichthyology is a branch of zoology that studies what?

CROSSWORD

Down 1 Crumbly Greek cheese (4) 2 Art collection’s permanent home (6) 3 Matildas star, Sam ... (4) 4 First name of picture C (5) 5 Trendy (6) 6 Pasta dish, ... cheese (8) 12 Instinctive (8) 13 Earth’s star (3) 16 Right angle, ... degrees (6) 18 Mooring hook (6) 19 The Blue Wiggle, Anthony ... (5) 21 “Age of Reason” singer, ...

Farnham (4) 22 Biblical garden (4)

PICTURE C

5 Hawaiian Duke Kahanamoku is credited with popularising which sport?

6 What is the name of the actress who stars as Rey in Star Wars: The Rise of Skywalker?

7 Which Australian state shares borders with all other mainland states and the Northern Territory?

8 What is the name of the English naturalist who is credited with developing the theory of evolution by natural selection?

CROSSWORD AND PUZZLES COMPILED BY LOVATTS

9 What is the first ingredient listed on a standard jar of Vegemite?

10 In the first Home Alone movie, how old is Kevin McCallister when he is accidentally left at home over the Christmas holidays?

11 The Brownlow Medal is awarded to the fairest and best player in which sport?

12 Author JK Rowling’s first Harry Potter book, Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone, was originally published in what year?

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13 What is the name of the estuary that flows through the city of Perth in Western Australia?

14 True or false: Japan’s famous active volcano, Mount Fuji, hasn’t erupted in over 300 years.

15 What doesn’t Mariah Carey care about underneath the Christmas tree?

16 The Ashes is a test cricket series played between England and Australia. The ashes of what is said to be inside the original urn?

Create words of 4 letters or more using the given letters once only, but always including the middle letter. Do not use proper names or plurals ending with S. See if you can find the 9-letter word using up all letters.

10 good

16 very good

21+ excellent

17 In music, which major scale contains no sharps or flats?

18 Young environmental activist Greta Thunberg (pictured left) is from which country?

19 In which Australian city will you find the suburbs Kew, Elwood and Coburg?

20 Apart from the well-known Rudolph, what are the names of the eight reindeer mentioned in the song “Rudolph, the RedNosed Reindeer”?

SOLUTIONS ON PAGE 158

Find the solutions on page 158.

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What’s a frog’s favourite drink?

A croak-a-cola.

So she could let it go.

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Use BIG words.

Leaf me alone.

A blueberry.

Where’s pop corn?

Because he was feeling crumby.

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Nevermind, it stinks.

Why did the cookie go to the doctor?

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What did the tree say to the wind?

What did the little corn say to the mamma corn?

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What do you call a sad strawberry?

A DV ICE C H OICE C O WAR DICE CRE V ICE DE V ICE JU ST ICE L AT T ICE N OV ICE PR AC T ICE PRECIPICE PREJU DICE REJOICE SACR IFICE SERV ICE SLUICE T HR ICE T W ICE VOICE

4

Why did Elsa want a balloon?

Do you want to hear a joke about a skunk?

There are 18 words ending in ‘ice’ hidden in the grid. Search up, down, forwards, backwards and diagonally for the words.

Can you find them all?

1

2 4

2 8

14/11/19 12:00 pm

P U ZZLES

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Can you spot the EIGHT DIFFERENCES between these two images? Circle what’s changed on the image below.

1 MOVIES Test your knowledge with these super fun, totally awesome trivia questions.

JSA1219p157 157

1 What is Simba’s uncle’s name in The Lion King?

2 What is the full name of Leonard the pig in The Angry Birds Movie?

3 What is the name of the prince Aurora loves in Maleficent: Mistress of Evil?

2 AUSTRALIAN BIRDS 1 What is the largest native Australian bird?

2 True or false: the wedge-tailed eagle is Australia’s smallest bird of prey.

3 What are kookaburras most known for?

3 LANDMARKS 1 In which country would you find the Eiffel Tower?

2 The Leaning Tower of is found in Italy.

3 Egypt is home to which pointy landmark?

4 Stonehenge is located in which country?

14/11/19 12:00 pm

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M F R E S U M S T C A R E E U S I M M O N S H A N E I E B R U N E E E I N S T I Y T

J G M U P R O A C O L I S O B A R V E N Y L O N S U N N A T A L I N F J A C K E I O D H E H O O P E L N N R D

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© Lovatts Puzzles

WHEEL WORDS Aril, Hair, Hour, Hurl, Iris, Lair, Liar, Lira, Lour, Oral, Rail, Rash, Roil, Rush, Sari, Slur, Soar, Sour, Houri, Solar, Surah, Sural, Sailor.

9-letter word: HILARIOUS

QUIZ 1 Five gold rings 2 1838 3 Queenstown 4 Fish 5 Surfing 6 Daisy Ridley 7 South Australia 8 Charles Darwin 9 Yeast extract 10 Eight 11 AFL

I L

12 1997 13 Swan River 14 True 15 Presents 16 Wicket bails 17 C major 18 Sweden 19 Melbourne 20 Dasher, Dancer, Prancer,

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1 A bolt is missing on the boat.

Vixen, Comet, Cupid,

2 King Leonard’s ears are bigger.

Donner and Blitzen

3 The colour of the periscope’s eye is different.

4 The rope around one of the pier’s pillars is missing.

5 The red bushes in the background is different.

6 Bomb’s beak is a different colour.

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7 Two of the pier’s pillars are missing.

8 Courtney’s jacket is a different colour.

Movies

Australian Birds

Landmarks

1 Scar

1 Emu

1 France

2 King Leonard

2 False, it’s

2 Pisa

Mudbeard

the largest

3 The Pyramids

3 Prince Philip

3 Their laugh

of Giza 4 England

20767819AA 2019-11-08T16:44:50+11:00

Untitled-1 1

13/5/19 9:47 am

ALWAYS SWIM BETWEEN THE RED AND YELLOW FLAGS

19-LC-00647

cityofgoldcoast.com.au/ lifeguardservices

16 0

T HE IN SIDER

HIGHER. BIGGER. FASTER. LONGER. EACH ISSUE WE FOCUS ON A PL ACE PU NCHING ABOVE ITS WEIG H T

> The Lion City is never short of a good downpour. And it was Singapore’s generous tropical showers that inspired the architects of Jewel (jewelchangiairport. com), Changi Airport’s bright new entertainment and retail complex.

At the heart of Jewel is the HSBC Rain Vortex, the world’s tallest indoor waterfall.

Every minute, thousands of litres of recycled rainwater flow through an oculus in the domed glass ceiling, forming the magnificent 40-metre-high waterfall.

And during Singapore’s mighty weather events, the extra drops can see the waterfall flow with up to 40,000 litres of water per minute.

By day, the Rain Vortex is truly mesmerising, but by night, a dazzling light and sound show make the sevenstorey waterfall an ethereal sight to behold. And while the display looks impressive, it also serves an important purpose. The rushing water provides natural cooling and airflow for Jewel’s lush indoor gardens, while large tanks below the waterfall collect rainwater to be reused and recirculated throughout the building.

The watery, high-octane surprise that awaits in Singapore’s Jewel means being in transit will never be the same.

W HERE? SINGAPORE W H AT ?

RAIN VORTEX W AT ERFA L L WHEN? IT OPENED ON 17 APRIL 2019 HOW HIGH? 40 METRES W O R D S _ K A I T LY N PA L M E R-A L L E N

I.N.O.X. PROFESSIONAL DIVER Hotline: +61-3-9500 8894

MAKERS OF TTHE ORIGINAL SWISS ARMY KNIFE | ESTABLISHED 1884