MAR 2020
F I N DI N G M E A N I N G A N D W O N D ER I N UL U R U
MAGAZINE
A PERFEC T W EEK E N D I N C H R IS T C H U R C H T H E H A PPIES T H A PP Y HOURS IN BANGKOK
good →
times
Cool eco hotels, sustainable family holidays, living like a local – the new way to travel is here
MAR 2020
OSAKA
A D EL A I D E
BALI
C A IR N S
V IE T N A M
HOBART
SEOUL
HAWAII
C A M B O DI A
STUDY ECO-TOURISM
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MAR 2020
CONTENTS
the checklist ALL T HE T R AVEL IN T EL YO U NEED N O W
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the traveller W HERE T O G O N E X T
040 ECO RESORTS Immerse yourself in nature – without leaving a footprint.
7 M Y T H S A B O U T... Hobart.
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P O S T C A R D F R O M ...
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T W O S I D E S O F...
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H AC K: H O W T O T R AV EL M I N D F U L LY
Nakanoshima, Osaka. Seoul.
Get more out of your holiday by being in the moment.
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T R AV EL T R E N D S: TOURISM PLEDGES Protect the places you visit.
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TECH Kid-friendly smart watches, action cams and sunnies that sing, plus your guide to laptops.
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TR AVEL NE W S
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CALENDAR
All the latest updates, info and events from around our network. BMX action, opera and sculpture – what not to miss this month.
050 ULURU Revisiting Australia’s Red Centre with a new sense of awe, respect and wonder.
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C O N T EN T S
058 GREEN CAMP Nurturing family bonding via an ecoconscious getaway.
the cut T H E BES T OF W H ERE T O E AT, D R IN K A N D PL AY
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E AT + D R I N K: ADEL AIDE Fresh flavours and classic cuisine give diners the best of both worlds in the South Australian capital.
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H A P P Y H O U R S: BANGKOK The top deals on drinks at these charming, unconventional bars.
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A N AT O M Y OF A DIS H It is always a good day for the Singaporean classic, Hainanese chicken rice.
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FOOD TRENDS The urban farms bringing country comforts to the city.
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FASHION These sustainable pieces are a win for your wardrobe – and for the environment.
the insider JE T S TA R N E W S, M AP S A N D EN T ER TA IN MEN T
090 093 096 098 104
JE T S TA R N E W S EN T ER TA IN M EN T W H E R E W E FLY GAMES + PUZZLES H I G H E R, B I G G E R, FA S T E R, L O N G E R
064 CHRISTCHURCH Fab food and adventure await in this NZ city.
Cover photography by Sabina Särkkä.
FLINDERS ISLAND
Photo Credit: Adam Gibson
...
WWW.FOODANDCRAYFISHFESTIVAL .COM @ VISITFLINDERSISLAND
E DITOR I A L .
EDITORIAL INQUIRIES
EDITOR Jacqueline Lunn
SENIOR EDITORIAL COORDINATOR
DEPUTY EDITOR Sudeshna Ghosh
Anneliese Beard
CONTRIBUTORS.
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jon Gregory DESIGNER Lisa Emmanuel CHIEF SUB EDITOR Nick Hadley SUB EDITOR Deborah Grunfeld PHOTOGRAPHIC EDITOR Nicola Sevitt
Suite 58, 26-32 Pirrama Road, Pyrmont, NSW 2009 P (02) 8114 8944 E jetstar.editorial@mediumrarecontent.com
ACCOUNT MANAGER, TRAVEL
Samantha O’Brien
MANAGING EDITOR, JETSTAR Simon Tsang
A DVERT I S I N G . HEAD OF SALES, TRAVEL AND LUXURY
VIC & QLD ADVERTISING DIRECTOR
Tony Trovato | (02) 8114 8920
Chris Joy | (03) 9292 3207
NATIONAL ADVERTISING MANAGER
VIC GROUP SALES MANAGER
Sarah Harding | (02) 8114 7382
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DIGITAL SALES DIRECTOR
VIC ACCOUNT MANAGER
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NSW SALES MANAGER
VIC ACCOUNT MANAGER
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NSW ACCOUNT MANAGER
QLD SALES MANAGER
Anthony Sullivan | (02) 8114 8954
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WA & SA STATE MANAGER
NZ BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER
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Stuart Tovey | +64 21 711 606
ADVERTISING INQUIRIES ADVERTISING SALES COORDINATOR Madeline Payne P (02) 8114 8936 E jetstar.advertising@mediumrarecontent.com
M EDIUM R A R E C O N T E N T A G E N C Y. MANAGING DIRECTOR Gerard Reynolds DIRECTOR Sally Wright CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Fiorella Di Santo HEAD OF CONTENT, TRAVEL AND LUXURY Kirsten Galliott DIGITAL DIRECTOR Karla Courtney MULTIMEDIA DIRECTOR Shannon O’Meara SOCIAL DIRECTOR Scott Drummond STRATEGY DIRECTOR Lyndsey Long FINANCE MANAGER Leslie To
Jetstar magazine is published monthly and is complimentary to domestic and international passengers. Published for Jetstar Airways by Medium Rare Content Agency (ABN 83 169 879 921), Suite 58/26-32 Pirrama Road, Pyrmont, NSW 2009. ©2019. All rights reserved. Printed by Ovato Print Pty Ltd. Paper fibre is from sustainably managed forests and controlled sources. No responsibility is accepted for unsolicited material. Articles express the opinions of the authors and not necessarily those of Jetstar Airways or Medium Rare Content Agency. For a copy of Medium Rare Content Agency’s Privacy Policy, visit mediumrarecontent.com. ISSN 1443-2013.
We want you to know that at Jetstar our writers are not armchair travellers. Any assistance we do accept from the travel industry to produce our stories does not compromise the integrity of our coverage.
For flight reservations jetstar.com For hotel bookings and holiday packages jetstar.com/hotels jetstar.com/holidays
PENNY WATSON Melbourne-based Penny has been a freelance travel writer for more than a decade, writing for the likes of SMH and The Age. This month, she revisits Uluru (p. 50). “This story highlighted how travel can be a source of personal growth,” she says.
HELEN FOSTER In her career as a journalist, Helen has had travel features published in The Australian, among others. A regular visitor to Bangkok, she enjoyed researching Happy Hours (p. 78). “It was fun to find some new bars to add to my regular haunts,” she says.
AMY HEYCOCK A photographer from Brisbane, Amy has recently relocated to the UK. Having worked for Red Bull Music, Broadsheet and Delicious, she found Bangkok (p. 78) to be “the most instagrammable place ever.”
Inspirational holiday homes for an unforgettable West Australian holiday
Farm Break, Bunker Bay
Direct Jetstar flights now available to Busselton-Margaret River airport
Since 1994, we’ve been welcoming visitors to Western Australia’s beautiful South-West. Discover, explore and indulge at our world class wineries, restaurants, beaches and natural wonders. Relax in style and comfort in one of our 100+ stunning holiday homes. www.privateproperties.com.au
MARGARET RIVER REGION
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ALBANY & GREAT SOUTHERN
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MANDURAH & DAWESVILLE |
AVON & SWAN VALLEY
CEO’S LE T T ER
Great wine, beaches, surf – all for low fares > Thanks for choosing to fly with us. If you, like me, enjoy a break that includes a mix of time outdoors exploring Australia’s wonderful natural scenery, sharing meals that feature great local food and wine and trying your hand at new adventure activities, then March brings excellent news. This month, Jetstar commences the first-ever commercial flights to Busselton Margaret River Airport, linking Melbourne with one of Western Australia’s top travel destinations and putting the state’s south coast within easy reach for a short break away. Last year I was fortunate enough to discover this beautiful part of the world and see what it has to offer visitors. Beyond its famous wineries, the region has some of Australia’s best walking tracks, a stunning coastline and worldclass surf breaks. And from June to December it is a great place to go whale watching, with tens of thousands of whales migrating from the Antarctic to warmer waters.
Frances Andrijich
BUSSELTO N
“T HIS M O N T H, JE T S TAR C O M MEN CES T HE FIRS T-E VER C O M MER CI AL FL IG H T S T O B U S SELT O N M AR GARE T RI VER A IRP OR T.”
We are always thrilled to add new destinations to our network and being the first airline to offer a direct route is especially exciting. Low-fare direct flights help to build tourism and support local businesses. It is predicted that our new Melbourne-Busselton service will attract 60,000 new visitors to the region and generate more than $40 million to the local economy over the next three years. In addition, we have seen many locals from Busselton and the Margaret River region take advantage of our new direct flights to enjoy all that Melbourne has to offer: planning trips to attend sporting events and festivals, exploring galleries and unique shopping precincts and spending time in the city’s famous laneways, eat streets and restaurants. I hope you have the opportunity to plan a short break soon – we look forward to welcoming you on board when you do. G ARE T H E VA N S CEO, JE T S TA R G R O U P
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the checklist > ALL THE TRAVEL INTEL YOU NEED NOW
OSAKA PAG E
018 H O BART
PA G E
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> The Tasmanian devil is the world’s largest carnivorous marsupial, growing up to 80 cm and weighing up to 12kg.
SE O UL
PA G E
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> Wi-Fi is fast here, with the city ranked first in technology readiness by PwC – you won’t wait for a thing.
NE W ZE AL A N D
PA G E
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> The kiwi, a bird native to New Zealand, is the central feature of the country’s air force logo – despite being flightless.
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T HE C HECKL IS T
7 M Y T H S AB O U T...
Hobart
—From big wave riders to Tassie tigers, the cat is out of the bag in Australia’s southernmost city, says Peta Murray—
MYTH #1 There are no surf beaches > Just a short drive east of Hobart, you will find a slew of quality surf breaks including Clifton Beach, May’s Point and Rebounds. True surf aficionados should head to the nearby Tasman Peninsula, home of world-famous bigwave break Shipstern Bluff, also known as “Devil’s Point”. Not for the faint-hearted, waves on this shallow reef can reach up to six metres and hold the water equivalent of 27 Olympicsized swimming pools.
MYTH #3 MYTH #2 No one famous ever came from Hobart > A who’s who of wellknown actors, scientists and even royalty hail from the Tasmanian capital including 20th-century Hollywood star Errol Flynn, Australia’s first female Nobel Prize winner Professor Elizabeth Blackburn and the Crown Princess of Denmark, Mary Donaldson.
It is not a party town > With one pub for every 200 locals back in the 1830s, Hobart has always been a city to kick up its heels. These days the capital offers a multitude of reasons to celebrate, hosting annual events such as Taste of Tasmania food and wine festival, Dark Mofo, the Wooden Boat Festival and, of course, the Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race.
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“H OBART’S PR OXIMI T Y TO T HE S O U T HERN M AG NE T IC P OLE PR OV IDES FR O N T-R O W SE ATS F OR T HE AUR OR A AUSTR AL IS.”
MYTH #6
MYTH #4 Hobart is always cold > While winters in the southern capital can be chilly enough to put snow on watchful Mount Wellington – a great excuse to cosy up to an open fire and drink mulled wine – summer can see the mercury rise with temperatures occasionally known to climb above 40°C.
The Tasmanian tiger still exists > Despite persistent reports of Tasmanian tiger, or thylacine, sightings since the marsupial’s extinction more than 80 years ago, there has been “no verifiable evidence” that the animal still roams the island. While some authorities are reluctant to completely give up on the species, the Tasmanian National Parks and Wildlife Service has declared the thylacine “probably extinct”, a victim of hunting. The last known Tasmanian tiger died in captivity in 1936.
MYTH #7 MYTH #5 The ozone layer above Hobart is gone > Despite the popular belief that Australia’s southernmost state is exposed to higher levels of harmful UV rays due to a “hole” in the atmosphere, the Bureau of Meteorology maintains that this hole or thinning of the ozone has “only ever been observed to be well south of... Tasmania”. Claims that the sun feels stronger in the Apple Isle can probably be put down to the lack of pollution in the air – but visitors should apply the usual safeguards against UV rays with proper sun protection.
Everything in Hobart is old > It is Australia’s secondoldest capital city but Hobart does not rest on its heritage laurels. The first Australian city to have a casino (in 1973), Hobart is also home to the groundbreaking Mona (the Museum of Old and New Art) and a constant parade of new bars and restaurants, while plans are afoot for a cable car up to the city’s highest natural vantage point, Mount Wellington.
AND 3 TRUTHS Hobart is one of the only major cities where you can see the southern lights year-round > Hobart’s proximity to the south magnetic pole provides front-row seats for the spectacular atmospheric phenomenon aurora australis, or the southern lights. Best viewing spots include Rosny Hill Lookout and Mount Wellington. Hobart’s air and water are among the cleanest of any Australian city > The “roaring forties” are strong westerly winds that carry clean air from across the Southern Ocean to Tasmania, with Cape Grim Peninsula in the north-west of the state considered to have the “cleanest air on the planet”. Hobart also has very pure H2O. Hobart is home to Australia’s oldest brewery > Founded by former convict Peter Degraves, the Cascade Brewery (cascadebreweryco.com. au) has been producing beer since 1832, making it Australia’s longest continually operating brewery. Take a guided tour or head straight to the Brewhouse for a bevvy.
P O S TC ARD FR O M
Nakanoshima
OSAKA
—With its abundance of cool cafés, edgy design studios and magnificent museums, Japan’s secondlargest city has turned sightseeing into an art form—
1 NAKANOSHIMA FISHING PORT
WORDS_ KAMEI CHEONG ILL U S T R AT IO N _ G ER G Ő GIL IC ZE
This port might not be as bustling as Tsukiji Market in Toyko but being relatively low-key has its advantages. For one, you can tuck into the seafood that is freshly delivered to the port without having to jostle through crowds. Autumn and winter are the best times for fish as they tend to have higher fat content (which often translates to more flavour). Try monkfish liver, which is known as the “foie gras of the sea”. nakanoshima-gyoko.jp
2 GRAF Don’t be fooled by the unassuming building – it houses a leading design studio for home décor products. At the core of Graf’s minimalist designs is an obsession with function and a gratification of the senses, so take your time to appreciate the details to enhance the taste of your drink (for example, glasses are 0.9mm thick). graf-d3.com 3 THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ART Your appreciation of art will begin the moment you lay eyes on this utterly unique building. Opened in 2007, the museum was designed to represent the shape of a bamboo plant. Inside are two underground floors showcasing Japanese and foreign contemporary art. www.nmao.go.jp
T H E C H ECKL IS T
4 OSAKA CITY CENTRAL PUBLIC HALL
5 MUSEUM OF ORIENTAL CERAMICS
Inspired by stories of American businessmen in the early 1900s donating small fortunes to build libraries, museums and public halls, successful local stockbroker Iwamoto Einosuke decided to use his wealth to build a world-class arts and culture hub in his city, even if he didn’t live to see the completion of Osaka City Central Public Hall in 1918. (His dream did come true.) Today, the building, with its iconic red bricks and dome-shaped bronze roof, is an elegant fixture of Osaka’s cityscape and continues to host lectures and international performances. osaka-chuokokaido.jp
This world-renowned pottery museum houses about 4000 modern and antique pieces of Japanese, Chinese and Korean ceramics – including two registered National Treasures and 13 Important Cultural Properties. The museum has won awards for its use of both natural and LED lighting. www.moco.or.jp 6 BROOKLYN ROASTING COMPANY, KITAHAMA From favouring third-party certified coffees that ensure farmers are paid fairly, to packing coffee beans in reusable cans of tin-steel, Brooklyn Roasting Company is a firm supporter of sustainable farming and trade practices. Grab a cuppa at Kitahama branch and kick back. brooklynroasting.jp
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7 NAKANOSHIMA PARK Osaka’s oldest public garden literally offers up something new every season. In the Japanese summer, locals head to the riverside beer garden for a cold pint or lounge on the lawn. Come spring to early autumn, the east side of the park bursts into colour and sweet aromas as some 4000 roses are in full bloom. But perhaps the most magical time to visit is during Hikari Renaissance in December when the park is illuminated by 1.5 million lights and decorations. 1 Chome-1 Nakanoshima, Kita Ward
S N APS H O T Gyeongbokgung Palace The eaves of Gyeongbokgung (“palace greatly blessed by heaven�) once changed colours to signify whether a male or female royal family member occupied the site.
Two sides
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of Seoul
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Dongdaemun Design Plaza With curves designed to illustrate the flow of water, the futuristic “DDP”, which also stands for “Dream, Design and Play”, opened in 2014 as a venue for design shows.
David Dare Parker P05381.037
This special exhibition honours those Australians who work tirelessly to avert tragedy and build peace. From Bougainville to East Timor; Rwanda to Solomon Islands – explore the stories behind peacekeeping and humanitarian operations, where Australian civilians, diplomats, police and military, have shown the courage to make peace.
awm.gov.au/courageforpeace
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C O N NEC T W IT H W O NDER Travel often turns into a whirlwind tour of attractions, leaving you with a phone full of photos but sketchy memories. The antidote? “Being curious,” Nikki says. “Go to each place with wonder, asking yourself what made it popular and seeing the beauty for what it is. Try stepping away from the crowd and finding a little place to the side to sit and observe.”
BREAT HE EASY
The moment is right now TR AVEL H ACK
—Squeeze more out of your holiday with these Zen tips on how to travel mindfully—
FEEL YO UR WAY Consciously engaging your senses is a great way to absorb a new place. “Our senses can only exist in the present moment,” says Nikki Janks, co-founder of meditation studio Centred Meditation. “Close your eyes and feel the warmth of the sun on your face, smell whatever aromas are reaching your nose and taste what’s lingering from a meal.”
BE FLEXIBLE
WORDS_ PENNY CARROLL ILL U S T R AT IO N _ B RE N T W IL S O N
Leave room in your itinerary for surprises, Nikki suggests. “By letting go of needing to know what you’re doing next, you’re able to be in the present and experience what’s around you, meet locals, or take a chance on a café that’s not in the guidebook,” she says.
If you are feeling stressed or rushed, use your breath to bring your body and mind back into balance. Yoga teacher and founder of The Light Collective yoga and meditation school Sian Pascale suggests this simple exercise: “Close your eyes and slowly inhale for the count of four, hold the inhale for the count of four, slowly exhale for the count of four and hold the exhale for the count of four.” This grounding practice can be done “on a bus, waiting in a queue or in bed”, she adds. “The best part is that the effects are instantaneous.”
S W ITC H OFF Smartphones are a constant distraction, so switch yours to flight mode while you are out and about. “You can still take photos but there’s no need to directly share,” says meditation teacher Ashley Hunt. Set aside half an hour in the day to connect – consciously, of course!
WRITE IT D O W N Keeping a journal of your travels promotes gratitude and reinforces memories. Avoid simply logging your activities, Nikki advises. “Write about what you’re feeling, an interesting conversation you had or some insight about the culture you’re in.” Not a wordsmith? Try sketching your surroundings rather than snapping a pic to get present. “It requires you to really see the detail of what you’re looking at,” Nikki says.
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M ARIA ISL A ND
T H E C H ECKL IS T
T R AVEL T REN D S
Take the pledge —Do you promise to tread lightly and protect the places you love to visit? Feel serene about your travels by signing up to do just that— WORDS_ SARAH REID
> So, you’re never caught without your reusable tote and your own water bottle. But have you really got it covered when it comes to travelling sustainably? Tourism bodies are recognising the need to not only increase awareness of green travel, but also to engage travellers to become proactive participants in the process of responsible tourism. An increasing number of destinations are creating region-specific guidelines called tourism pledges that encourage travellers to be respectful and mindful of the local environment and culture and, consequently, make a positive contribution to the destination. According to a survey conducted by AIG Travel, 52 per cent of global travellers believe sustainable travel is important, but one in three do not know where to start. Clearly, the trend is speaking to the current Zeitgeist. It all started with the Palau Pledge. The Pacific island nation (reached via Manila, Seoul or Taipei) now requires visitors to sign a passport stamp promising to act in an ecologically responsible way to be granted
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T R AVEL T REN D S
“TO URISM PLED GES EN C O UR AGE TR AVELLERS TO BE RESPEC TFUL A N D MIN DFUL OF T HE LO CAL EN V IR O N MEN T A N D C ULT URE.”
entry. Other tourism pledges are less formal, with destinations simply prompting travellers to voluntarily abide by guidelines usually listed on their websites. Apart from inspiring legions of travellers, the pledge concept is also motivating the industry. For example, in Phuket, a collective of hotels and tour operators have joined forces to reduce, reuse and recycle single-use plastics, encouraging their customers to follow suit. “Since launching New Zealand’s Tiaki Promise in 2018, we’ve seen a groundswell of support from operators across the country, from the introduction of grassroots recycling initiatives to new sustainability programs,” says Andrew Waddel, Tourism New Zealand’s General Manager in Australia. If you too want to give back to your holiday destination as much as you get from it, these are the pledges you need to take before you visit.
L ADY ELL IOT ISL A ND
NEW ZEALAND > Tiaki means “to care for people and place” in te reo Maori and visitors are now asked to take the Tiaki Promise, pledging to be good stewards for New Zealand’s environment, respect the culture and take the necessary safety precautions during their stay. tiakinewzealand.com
MARIA ISLAND
NE W ZEAL A ND
TASMANIA
> Known for its wildlife, this picturesque isle, just 45 minutes by ferry from the east coast town of Triabunna, asks that visitors help to keep its wildlife wild by vowing not to chase animals with selfie sticks or get too close to their babies. eastcoasttasmania.com/maria-island-pledge
ISLAND OF HAWAII > Created to combat overtourism and increasing visitation to potentially dangerous attractions, the Island of Hawaii’s Pono Pledge asks visitors to agree to be pono or “righteous”. It covers strong safety messaging, including a directive not to “defy death for breathtaking photos”, as well as admiring wildlife from afar and caring for nature. ponopledge.com
LADY ELLIOT ISLAND
Q UEENSL AND
> The only resort on this coral cay at the southern tip of the Great Barrier Reef asks guests to help protect the ecosystem, which provides a sanctuary for over 1200 marine life species, by pledging to take sustainable actions such as refraining from collecting seashells. ladyelliot.com.au
Para dise HAS TO BE SEEN TO BE BELIEVED
S Y DA LIA’S AUSTR A
1 DAY
PASS
E ST THEM ’S BIGGE IA L A R T TO AUS
$ ADULTS
PARK
99
ENJOY 2 PARKS IN 1 DAY
during your Gold Coast holiday, with entry to Dreamworld and WhiteWater World for one day at only $89 for children and $99 for adultswhen you buy online*.
Buy online, visit dreamworld.com.au *Terms and conditions apply, see website for details.
T H E C H ECKL IS T
TEC H N OL O GY
Update —Gear, Gear, apps, tech talk and more—
TCL Movetime MT40
$1 9 9
> Stay in contact with your young ones wherever they are with this family-friendly smart watch. Being 4G-enabled means there is no need to tether to a smartphone, with features such as calling, text, GPS location services and video calling available directly on any compatible cellular (data) network. It is also dust and splash-resistant, making it durable in the face of any accident. bigw.com.au
Insta360 GO
$ 329.9 9
> This personal action cam uses cutting-edge artificial intelligence (AI) to capture super-smooth footage and make automatic edits on the fly, giving you instant edited videos to upload and share with friends. Attach the cam to the magnetic pendant necklace (worn under clothing) to capture your adventures hands-free or use a mounting attachment to secure to a bike, surfboard or helmet. insta360.com
WORDS_ MARK GAMBINO
Bose Frames
$29 9.95
> Enjoy an intimate audio experience without the need for earbuds with these stylish sunglasses, which have premium audio drivers built into the frames. Just wear them like regular glasses and let the smart technology aim audio directly at your ears, not the person next to you on the bus. You can also experience the world like never before with enhanced sound provided by compatible augmented reality apps. bose.com.au
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T EC H N OL O GY
M UST-HAVE
APPS
B U YERS’ G UIDE
Laptops > With so many new features and brands to choose from, how do you find the best laptop for your needs? First, ensure the programs you want to use are available on the operating system of the hardware – Mac, Windows or Linux – then check the hardware specifications meet any program requirements. A basic laptop will be suitable for surfing the web, emailing, document production and streaming media. If you are editing video or photos, increasing central processing unit (CPU) power, screen size and resolution will improve the whole experience. For gaming, 4K resolution video editing and computer animation, you will need an even faster processor and a dedicated graphics processing unit (GPU) to handle the enormous amount of information. Bear in mind that with a bigger screen comes a bigger battery, which means a heavier laptop to carry around. Likewise, the larger the files you use, the larger the laptop hard drive will need to be. Upgrading to a solid-state drive (SSD) will speed things up but they can be pricey compared to a regular hard drive.
RefillMyBottle
3 to try... #1 HP PAVILION 13 $799 This 13-inch laptop is perfect for travelling light. With a 256GB solid-state hard drive, 8GB of RAM and an Intel Core i5 processor, it makes easy and swift work of moderate computing tasks. www8.hp.com #2 APPLE MACBOOK AIR FROM $1699 The latest model features improved security with Touch ID, a large Force Touch trackpad for creative fingers and an Intel UHD Graphics chip that supports an external 4K monitor. apple.com #3 MICROSOF T SURFACE PRO X FROM $1699 This ultra-lightweight device combines the touch screen and connectivity features of a tablet with the power of a laptop – and the two-in-one design lets you work as easily on your lap as at a desk. microsoft.com
The “ink” that thinks > The smartphone of the distant future won’t be carried in your pocket, it will be worn on your skin. A digital tattoo is a lot like a small computer circuit that is printed and stuck to the skin to serve various electronic functions. Imagine having buttons affixed to your hand that allow you to control devices in your home. Other digital tattoos can serve more complex functions such as monitoring overall health or vital signs. Motorola, Nokia and Google are all looking at tech tattoos that connect to a user’s smartphone to offer personal functionality, like audio services that detect your voice directly from your larynx. Expect smart tatts to become a reality for consumers within a few years.
IO S + A N DR OID So you have got your reusable water bottle for your trip. Next? Discover water refill stations across Australia and Asia. Search by name or geolocation for refill sites (in parks, resorts, city streets and museums) and other details such as opening hours. Or submit refill station details for new locations to help others travel greener.
Spark Camera IO S Turn your smartphone into a video-making machine with this complete shooting, editing and uploading package. Tap and hold on the screen to film a scene, then review your footage to make changes to edits or the sequence of shots and add filters – you can even dub music or record voice overs. Then upload directly to social media.
a
Need to pack more carry-on baggage?
You can now purchase extra carry-on to bring your total weight allowance up to 14kg* Find out more at jetstar.com *Purchase an extra +7kg carry-on allowance for a total allowance of 14kg. Size restrictions apply. No item can exceed 10kg. Limited availability per flight. Not available on all routes.
T H E C H ECKL IS T
T R AVEL NE W S
In the know —The latest buzz on where to play, stay and holiday—
H EL PIN G H A N D
Road (trip) to recovery Make this the season to holiday local – and benefit regions recovering from the bushfire crisis. There is so much to see: Gippsland, Vic, and Shoalhaven in NSW (shoalhaven.com) – home to mountains, beaches and gourmet produce – are back in business and half of Kangaroo Island, SA, remains unscathed (see tourkangarooisland.com.au for up-to-date info). Check out website Roadtrip for Good (also on Facebook and Instagram) for itinerary inspiration, grab an empty esky and head out to #buyfromthebush. roadtripforgood.org.au
C O MPE T I T IO N
W O R D S _ D E B O R A H G R U N F E L D, K A I T LY N P A L M E R -A L L E N
Holiday in Hawaii – on us Are the golden sandy beaches, superb surf, tropical forests and intriguing culture of the Hawaiian Islands calling to you? Enter the Jetstar Media x Hawai‘i Tourism competition for a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to win a seven-night cruise around the islands. Explore the many attractions of beautiful O‘ahu, Maui, Kauai‘i and the Island of Hawai‘i while enjoying the luxurious comfort of Norwegian Cruise Line’s Pride of America ship. The prize includes flights to Honolulu, all on-board meals and a drinks package, a variety of entertainment and activity options plus gratuities. Conditions apply. www.jetstar.com/hawaii
F O O D FES T I VAL
Flinders keepers The Flinders Island Food & Crayfish Festival (15-19 April) celebrates the top-class produce that comes out of this scenic Bass Strait outcrop, from superb seafood – abalone, scallops and, of course, those spectacular crayfish – to local beef, lamb, geese and more. Festival highlights include a Booze Tour, a chopper ride to a remote island lunch and a workshop with celeb chefs Karen Martini and Tobie Puttock. foodandcrayfishfestival.com
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Future proof
Where to find Australia’s best eco transport options —Join the big green movement without a big red investment by using an electric bike, scooter, tricycle cab or even an electric car for hire—
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> LIME
> BYKKO
> EVEE
> ECOCADDY
Zip through town on a bright green electric scooter. These eco bad boys are all over Brisbane and coming soon to Melbourne and Sydney. Locate your ride on the app and go! li.me
It’s cheap as, just $2 for 10 minutes (or sign up for monthly unlimited rides) on e-bikes you will find docked at 19 handy spots across Newcastle, NSW, like Bar Beach. bykko.com.au
Ever wanted to drive a Tesla? This Australian carsharing platform is like Airbnb for electric cars, allowing you to hire lean, green machines directly from their owners. evee.com.au
Hail one of these contemporary rickshaws that are doing their bit for carbon neutral Adelaide, with more than 160,000 rides under their distinctive blue hoods. ecocaddy.com.au
> Experience a slice of contemporary Japan in Sydney’s CBD at Kuro Dining. The thoughtfully designed space oozes Japanese minimalism, while the sensational food leans decidedly towards nose-totail dining – think a Wagyu entree made using cuts not utilised for the house-aged steak mains. Don’t miss the charcoal-crumbed Kuro fried chicken and sublime charred edamame and wash it all down with refreshing sake cocktails. kurosydney.com
The good wash > Never get caught out with dirty hands while travelling again. Ecoya’s rinse-free handwash is not only convenient to carry around, it is also hydrating – and it comes in their delicious signature fragrances like Sweet Pea & Jasmine and Coconut & Elderflower. Want to make your travels greener? Opt for Ecoya’s vegan soap bars instead of disposable shower gel. ecoya.com.au
gold coast • may 14-17, 2020
DON’T MISS A BEAT Book your Blues on Broadbeach vacay today! Tommy Emmanuel, Karise Eden, Kim Churchill and Bondi Cigars join over 70 international and local artists performing live and free on the streets of Broadbeach.
DIRECT FLIGHTS TO THE GOLD COAST AIRPORT • 30 MINUTES FROM THE FESTIVAL Full lineup and accommodation information at bluesonbroadbeach.com
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T HE C HECKL IS T
C ALEN DAR
La Traviata on Sydney Harbour
MARCH
27.03-26.04.20
As the sun sets over the city skyline, join a cast of more than 80 performers at Fleet Steps near Mrs Macquarie’s Chair as they dance and sing the love story that inspired the hit movie Moulin Rouge!. opera.org.au
NO MATTER WHERE YOU ARE THIS MONTH, THERE’S PLENTY TO ENJOY...
SPORT
L AUNCESTON BMX Australia National Championships 23-28.03.20
Get your adrenaline fix from the edge of your seat as the champs ride it out at the biggest event on the Australian bike motocross calendar. bmxaustralia.com.au
SCIENCE
BRISBANE
ARTS
COT TESLOE Sculpture By The Sea, Cottesloe 06-23.03.20
World Science Festival Brisbane
One of Australia’s largest free public events, the festival transforms the white sands of pristine Cottesloe Beach into an incredible outdoor sculpture gallery for three weeks in March. sculpturebythesea.com/cottesloe
Daniel Mahon, Anna Reece, Clyde Yee, Hamilton Lund
25-29.03.20
Held in New York City for the past decade, Brisbane and regional Queensland can claim the only extension of this deliriously clever event, which will spark your curiosity and awe through a variety of interactive experiences. worldsciencefestival.com.au
SYDNEY
OPERA
HORSERACING
CANBERRA Canberra Racing Carnival
T H E RE’S A D AY F O R T H AT ?!
08-09.03.20
Race into the long weekend as thoroughbreds take over the track. Sunday has Fashions on the Field prizes while Monday is family day with pony rides and face painting. thoroughbredpark.com.au
World Wildlife Day 03.03.20
COMEDY
SYDNEY Anh Do – The Happiest Refugee
International Women’s Day
07.03.20
08.03.20
Join the comedian for a journey through his tough yet inspiring life. anhdo.com.au GARDENING
MELBOURNE Melbourne International Flower and Garden Show
International Day of Happiness 20.03.20
25-29.03.20
Get professional landscaping advice, indulge in high tea or join renowned florist Julia Rose for bloomin’ marvellous floral couture workshops. melbflowershow.com.au
FOOD
MELBOURNE
World Water Day 22.03.20
Adelaide Festival UNTIL 15.03.20
Melbourne Food and Wine Festival Take your tastebuds on a trip around the world at this 10-day event. There is everything from jungle-themed parties to drinks tastings and the ever-popular “Crawl and Bite” guided tour of Melbourne’s best eateries. melbournefoodandwine.com.au
FESTIVAL
19-29.03.20
ADEL AIDE
Wander through a life-size doll’s house, catch a captivating theatre show or wind down at the ballet – there is something for everyone at this cultural celebration. adelaidefestival.com.au
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the traveller > WHERE TO GO NEXT
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> This group of more than 90 islands has been the traditional home of the Ngaro people for at least the past 9000 years.
BAL I
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> Ancient Balinese tradition says the feet of a newborn should not touch the ground for 105 days, as infants are holy.
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> The South Island’s biggest city was established on 31 July 1856, making it the oldest in New Zealand.
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T HE T R AVELLER
Melissa Findley
A DVEN T U RE
it’s not easy
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being green —These environmentally conscious resorts ensure you will reconnect with nature (and yourself) and preserve the places you love to visit—
W O R D S _ A L I S O N B O N E / A L E X A N D R A C A R LT O N / B I L L F I N K / U T E J U N K E R / S A R A H R E I D
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EC O RES O R T S
BALI
Sarinbuana Eco Lodge Journeying to a beautiful mountain hideaway in a remote rainforest in Bali evokes more than a sense of oneness with nature – it plants the seeds of change. > Mount Batukaru, an extinct volcano, looms ever closer as I follow the road up its verdant, fertile slopes, passing villages, coffee plantations and banana groves. Black eagles streak across the sky and kingfishers play in the forest canopy. I am starting to enjoy this liberating feeling of being on a motorbike, the wind whipping through my hair as I catch my first glimpse of the tiled-roof bungalows peeping out from the steep valley walls blanketed in a rainforest. The coast of southern Bali, 700 metres below, is still visible but Sarinbuana Eco Lodge (baliecolodge.com) is a world away from the island’s bustling beach scene. Originally a self-sustaining family getaway for antipodeans Norm and Linda vant Hoff, the
peaceful eco retreat has been open to paying guests since 2000. The pioneering lodge, winner of Wild Asia’s Responsible Tourism Award in 2007 and 2010, has six secluded bungalows built with local bamboo, coconut and jackfruit timber. After checking into my two-storey tree house – a rustic-chic hideaway adorned with colourful woven textiles, hand-carved furniture and billowing mosquito nets – I join the complimentary garden tour. Over 10,000 native fruit trees have been planted in the surrounding forest, while flourishing permaculture gardens brim with 150-plus species of edible plants. Thriving vegetable patches nestle among groves of salak (snake fruit), cacao trees,
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dangling passionfruit vines and fiddlehead ferns – the juicy tips of which appear in my delicious salad mixed with fresh shredded coconut and chilli, served in the cosy lodge restaurant. Here, garden-to-plate dining is a given. Everything is in balance with nature, from the sustainable building techniques and waste management to low-impact activities such as yoga, hiking and swimming. But for Norm and Linda, who also offer ecotourism design and consultancy services, running an eco lodge means connecting with the community, above all. The staff members are all local and their community projects include a collaboration with Seacology to protect an 800-metre swathe of the adjoining rainforest – which guests can explore on guided hikes. Authentic cultural workshops at the lodge include Balinese cooking, calligraphy, woodcarving and table decorating. It is tempting to spend all day lounging by the natural pool – those views! – but I tear myself away for a fun, laughter-filled afternoon with local villager Jero. We chat about village life and traditions while I learn to weave flowers and leaves into pretty ornaments. Later, I join Linda on the terrace of the restaurant for a rich, smooth Balinese coffee to learn more about her eco lifestyle. “To be connected to the environment, the people and the land is my greatest joy,” she says. Experiencing what Linda and Norm have carefully created here in the remote rainforests of Bali leaves me feeling deeply inspired. When I head back down the mountain a few days later, I vow to make changes to my lifestyle – starting with learning more about permaculture so I can turn my garden into an edible one. Alison Bone
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Maqai Beach Eco Surf Resort > Protecting the magnificent coral reefs that surround Qamea Island is a priority for this sustainable tourism award winner. The tiny eco resort has just nine beachfront bures (bungalows), all of which run on solar power, and its white-sand beach lures surfers, divers and snorkellers to its crystal-clear water. Guests can join the friendly Fijian team in conservation projects such as coral gardening in the marine park, and the resort’s close ties to the local village ensure visitors have an immersive and authentic Fijian experience. maqai.com
HAWAII
Turtle Bay Resort
> Located on an 800-acre property far from the crowds of Waikiki, beachfront Turtle Bay might look like your standard luxury high-rise resort but it has very green roots. A local leader in solar power and low energy usage, waste reduction, composting and biodiesel conversion, the hotel won the Hawaiian Green Business Award in 2015. Excess food (all locally sourced and organic) is donated to food banks, while the resort participates in the Waste to Waves trash-to-surfboard recycling program. On the second Saturday of each month, join their beach conservation group to help with cleanups and restoring native flora. But there is plenty more to do – from snorkelling with turtles to hiking, biking and horseriding. turtlebayresort.com
EC O RES O R T S
BALI
Bambu Indah
> Choose to stay in an exquisitely furnished, repurposed Javanese bridal home or in a bamboo tree house at this pioneering eco retreat on the outskirts of Ubud. Here, the natural swimming pool is spring-fed and many of the meals are served on banana-leaf plates in line with its no-plastics policy. Bambu Indah belongs to a group that includes Bamboo U, which offers courses in sustainable architecture, and the sustainability-focused Green School, which you can tour while staying here. bambuindah.com BA MB U INDA H
THAIL AND
Bangkok Tree House
> Nestled on a lush island on the Chao Phraya River, this quirky hotel offers the ultimate escape from the bustle of Bangkok. Easily reached by boat from the city, its rooms include an open-air platform raised seven metres above the mangrove palms. Solar power and homegrown vegetables add to Bangkok Tree House’s carbon-neutral status. Bicycles are available for exploring the jungle and the team removes one kilogram of rubbish from the river for every booking. bangkoktreehouse.com
DAIN TREE EC OLOD GE
BA N GKOK TREE H O USE
QUEENSLAND
Simon Shiff
Daintree Ecolodge
> Getting back to nature takes on new meaning at this low-impact boutique retreat tucked within the world’s oldest tropical rainforest. Take a walk to a tranquil waterfall, spot musky rat-kangaroos from the private verandah of your bayan (rainforest room) or board a crocodile-spotting cruise on the nearby Daintree River. The lodge has done the legwork to ensure your stay is as sustainable as possible – right down to the nose-totail philosophy of the kitchen and the wild-harvested ingredients in the Li’Tya products used at the spa. Among its sustainable initiatives is a program that assists Indigenous Australians in finding stable careers, and projects that preserve the Great Barrier Reef. daintree-ecolodge.com.au
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Lady Elliot Island Eco Resort Experience the splendour of the Great Barrier Reef at its most pristine. Here, the only footprint you will leave on this tiny island will be on the beach. VIETNAM
Six Senses Con Dao
> The Six Senses hotel group is renowned for its wide-ranging sustainability initiatives, and its first Vietnamese outpost, hugging a picturesque beach in the idyllic Con Dao islands, is no exception. All 50 luxurious villas have ocean views and natural ventilation to reduce the need for air-conditioning. Drinking water is bottled onsite, solar panels heat the resort’s water and recycling is a top priority, with kitchen bio-waste used to compost the premises’ organic garden that supplies fresh produce to its restaurants. The resort supports the local community with outreach programs and helps local wildlife through conservation initiatives – joining turtle hatchling releases is just one of the many guest activities on offer. sixsenses.com
CAMBODIA
Phum Baitang
> Its name means “green village”, which is apt for this elegant eco-conscious resort set within eight hectares of tropical gardens and rice paddies, just west of Siem Reap. Inspired by Khmer family homes, 45 beautifully furnished stilted wooden villas blend effortlessly into the rural setting. The onsite Spa Temple uses natural techniques and products and exploring the area – the gateway to Angkor Wat – by bicycle is strongly encouraged. Plus, they have a water treatment facility for purifying drinking water and growing rice. zannierhotels.com
> One of the first things I notice as I step expectantly from the plane onto Lady Elliot Island, a small speck at the southern end of the Great Barrier Reef, is that there is not much to notice at all. When it comes to man-made structures, the 42-hectare island, 85 kilometres north-east of Bundaberg, has little more than a runway and several low-lying buildings used for dining, hiring diving gear and administration. A 19th-century lighthouse sits not far from the main settlement, and a cluster of cabins and tents allow up to 150 guests to stay overnight at Lady Elliot Island Eco Resort (ladyelliot.com.au). Otherwise, the island belongs to its natural inhabitants – the thousands of birds, including noddies, terns and sandpipers, which live there permanently or migrate annually, and the green, hawksbill and loggerhead turtles that use the island’s sandy shores to lay their eggs. Lady Elliot Island’s eco-credentials go much further than its eponymous resort sitting lightly on the land, however. The retreat gets almost
EC O RES O R T S
all energy from solar, and up to 250 kilograms of waste is composted daily or returned to the mainland for recycling. Since 2018, custodians Peter Gash and his family have sought to restore the island’s vegetation to its native state. They have removed invasive species such as lantana and replaced them with essential nesting trees for birds and coral cay natives including casuarinas and octopus bush. The world beneath the waves around the island is also vigilantly conserved. Lady Elliot sits within a “green zone”, which means fishing is banned and the reef’s 1200 marine species – including manta rays, turtles, sharks and tropical fish – are protected. In addition, resort staff participate in several reef monitoring and coral health and wildlife projects, including Project Manta, which aims to track the local
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manta ray population that swells in size around the island each winter. While I don’t encounter manta rays on my visit, I only need to wade a couple of metres into the coral lagoon that sits just off the sand, right outside my tent door, to come face to face with gentle turtles bobbing through the water, sleek eagle rays and comically fierce little reef fish guarding their personal patches of coral. Starting my mornings this way helps adjust to the island’s unhurried pace. Meals are relaxed and communal, and afternoons are spent snorkelling to the outer reefs. There wasn’t much to notice when I first arrived at Lady Elliot Island but there is an infinite amount to see, experience and wonder at when I slow down and truly look. Alexandra Carlton
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EC O RES O R T S
W H I T S U N D AY S
Elysian Retreat
> Will you start the day with a dip in the magnesium-enriched pool or with some waterfront yoga? At this, the first Great Barrier Reef resort powered entirely by solar energy, it is all about relaxation, whether it is watching dolphins gambolling from a hammock or indulging in an Ayurvedic spa treatment. The intimate resort – guests are limited to 20 at a time – focuses on sustainability measures including waste reduction, a ban on chemicals and advanced wastewater treatment. elysianretreat.com.au ELYSIA N RE TREAT
NEW ZEALAND
Camp Glenorchy Eco Retreat
> Encircled by the snow-capped peaks of New Zealand’s Southern Alps, the lakeside village of Glenorchy is a fitting setting for the nation’s most low-impact sleep. The camp uses only as much energy as it creates via its solar garden and you can take your pick of houses, cabins and cosy bunkrooms furnished with original artworks and eco-friendly amenities. You will sleep soundly knowing profits go to the Glenorchy Community Trust to support local livability initiatives. campglenorchy.co.nz
T H AL A BEAC H N AT URE RESERVE
CA MP GLEN ORC H Y EC O RE TREAT
QUEENSLAND > This tropical haven, near Port Douglas, celebrates nature with stylish, sustainably built wooden stilt houses, discreetly tucked between heritage rainforest and the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park. Its low-impact design, eco practices and extensive reforestation program earned it Ecotourism Australia’s Green Travel Leader status in 2017. Wildlife encounters are a highlight at this 145-acre beachfront reserve, with onsite rangers guiding nature tours to see wallabies, echidnas and sugar gliders. Other activities include walks through the organic coconut plantation, a birdwatching tour, stargazing at the observatory and snorkelling or diving the world’s largest coral reef. thalabeach.com.au
Mark Rudd
Thala Beach Nature Reserve
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C O N NEC T IO N
RED
—Fifteen years after her first visit, Penny Watson returns to Uluru to experience the icon in a far more meaningful manner than ever before—
S U NSE T CA MEL EXPERIEN CE
T H E T R AV ELLER
HEART SCORCHED LAND, RED SAND, tracks in the dirt like ant trails, no water below us, or up ahead or anywhere. I cough – my throat is parched just looking at the dry land. The Northern Territory’s outback landscape, from our little Piper Lance aeroplane, takes up the entire circular window. With my forehead reverberating on the glass, I peer down and around and beyond, trying to comprehend the enormity of the interior. Below I watch the dust-bowl trail of a ute racing down an ochre-red road and the line of a wire fence as it disappears into a far-off horizon. The loneliness of a corrugated farmhouse, the only one for hundreds of miles, makes me draw breath, its neighbouring rusted windmill looking sentimentally ancient against a backdrop of scraggy gums. When I first visited Uluru in my twenties, I arrived to a landscape I had only contemplated in books such as Wake in Fright and movies like The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert. I had the sponge-like mind of any youthful traveller, taking it all in pie-eyed. Back then, as I looked down on the ground, I remember being preoccupied by the legendary journeys of the early explorers. That Burke and Wills saddled up horses and set off on a 3250-kilometre journey to the Gulf of Carpentaria left me quite awestruck. Almost two decades later, I’m visiting again, this time arriving on a jet plane, with similar window views over the wild and arid landscape. Uluru is located in Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, a 1326-square kilometre region in the red desert in the south-west corner of Australia’s Northern Territory. Its astounding beauty, geographical significance – it is thought to date back 550 million years – and status as a sacred site to Indigenous Australians make it one of the country’s landmark sights, attracting more than 450,000 visitors each year.
When the pilot dips the plane wing so passengers get that famous iconic eye-ogle of Uluru from the air, I am again swept away by its enormity. From up here, the sandstone monolith, rising 348 metres, with a circumference of 9.4 kilometres, erupts from the flat landscape with more profound beauty than anything I’ve seen since that first visit. Uluru hasn’t changed, but maybe I have. What I see now is different to what it was on that rite-of-passage first journey with a group of mates looking for adventure. To me now, this land represents Anangu country, homeland of the Pitjantjatjara people, and what I’m feeling is more like awe, excitement and hope, not for white man’s history, but for our country’s Indigenous future. Last October, to coincide with the 34th anniversary of the return of Uluru to traditional owners, the steep 800-metre climb to the top of this cultural and spiritual icon was closed for good.
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Jetstar Holiday Packages Book your flight and hotel as a package, and you’ll always get the best prices available at jetstar.com
“T HE SU N PA IN TS ULURU’S SURFACE IN G O SSA MER WATER C OLO UR WASHES OF YELLO W, PINK A N D P URPLE.”
TAL I WIRU
My guide on a tour around the base of Uluru just before the closing explains it best: “No more tourists dumping used rubbish and nappies that find their way into the natural waterholes at the base of the rock, turning native animals away and, most importantly for the Indigenous people, nobody actually dying.” My delight at this new era for Uluru is somewhat hypocritical. On my first trip, drawing on a pool of blinkered youthful knowledge, my travelling cohort and I climbed the rock without so much as a thought. We raced to the top like your average excitable young traveller and, while up there, made a short (and to us, at the time, hilarious) movie which involved ducking in and out of the lunar-like holes on the surface. Inspired by the promise of an afternoon sinking cool beers in the hot sun, we ran back down. No respect. It wasn’t that we didn’t know. The entire rock is sacred and the climb site, in particular, is a sacred men’s area. Traditional owners have been asking visitors not to climb since the 1985 hand-back and signs requesting people reconsider climbing were erected near the start of the climb in 1992. This was 2003. Fifteen years on, my wiser, more informed self is appreciating the spirituality of Uluru, the feeling of awe its age-old rock folds inspire and the magic it evokes by way of ancestral stories. To me now, it feels like less of a tourist attraction, more a place of peaceful pilgrimage. On this trip I am celebrating the climb’s closure by indulging in activities that celebrate the rock, and in turn its rightful owners, from a more respectful distance. Tali Wiru is perhaps the best example. As its name – meaning “beautiful dune” in the Pitjantjatjara language – suggests, this seasonal experience (ayersrockresort.com.au) is fine dining with a difference, hosted in the desert sand on a small rise that neatly frames Uluru beyond. With cameras in hand, we stand amid she-oaks and mulga trees, saltbush and bush tomato plants, as the setting sun paints Uluru’s surface in gossamer watercolour washes of yellow, pink and purple. A menu, informed by the surrounding bush landscape, has us sitting down to spinifex baked beetroot with goat cheese, buttery grilled scallop with pickled emu apple, and kangaroo jerky with crispbread and quandong (“a desert peach”).
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BUSH FO OD EXPERIENCE
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W H ERE T O S TAY Twenty kilometres from Uluru, Voyages Ayers Rock Resort is a mini-township where visitors can choose from one of five accommodation options to suit different tastes and budgets, from dorm beds at the Outback Pioneer Lodge to five-star rooms at Sails in the Desert. ayersrockresort.com.au
W H ERE T O E AT Dining and drinking venues are found throughout the resort, from the Pioneer BBQ & Bar at Outback Pioneer and Ayers Wok noodle bar in the town square, to the Arnguli Grill at Desert Gardens Hotel and the upmarket Ilkara buffet restaurant at Sails or the famous underthe-stars Sounds of Silence dinner. ayersrockresort.com.au
When Uluru has disappeared into the inky darkness, the night sky takes the stage. Joseph, an Indigenous man from Rockhampton who has come to love the ways of the Anangu, sends his laser across the sky identifying Western and Aboriginal astronomy including the Emu in the Sky, which appears so clear stretching across the Milky Way, I wonder why I’ve never spotted it before. Uluru again makes its presence known the next morning when I wake early to see the sun shed pink rays on the folds of sandstone as we pass the great rock in a 4WD on our way to Kata Tjuta. On my first visit, Kata Tjuta was known as the Olgas, but that has happily changed to its traditional name. Kata Tjuta’s 32 giant geological domes cut into the horizon as conspicuously as Uluru and the site, another sacred men’s area, blooms with an astounding diversity of endemic flora. We take the 7.5km Valley of the Winds walk (parksaustralia.gov.au), with the domes looming either side. Our guide, a fellow from South Africa who has fallen for the Red Centre, tells how the Lasseter Highway, the 224km stretch of sealed road connecting Uluru with the Stuart Highway, once cut straight through the middle of Kata Tjuta. “Healing began when
M ARUK U ARTIS TS
they redirected the road around the park and below the dune lines in respect,” he says. The day before my departure, I sit under a eucalyptus tree on the grass in the courtyard of our hotel where Indigenous artist Valerie Brumby talks through an interpreter about Tjukurpa – the law and stories of ancestors, and her own paintings. Litt le arrows symbolise emu tracks, a cluster of circles represents the sun or stars, four straight lines means rain. We spend the afternoon adding dots to our litt le black canvases, appreciating the meticulous skill of the local artisans and creating our own stories in the artistic language of their people. My finished work is a view from the air, concentric circles denoting Uluru, litt le curves illustrating desert dunes, dots representing tufts of spinifex. It is the spiritual land of the Anangu people. And this time, that’s the message I’m taking home.
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> Sunset Camel Experience For a unique outback adventure, ride high through the desert on a camel. Time your run to see the sun setting on Uluru before ending the tour with champagne and bush foods, including freshly baked damper. ulurucameltours.com.au > Get creative Maruku Arts’ dot painting provides an intriguing introduction to Western Indigenous art. Join a twice-daily class to come home with an artwork and better cultural understanding. maruku.com.au > Uluru Sunrise and Segway tour A sunrise breakfast is followed by a 12km Segway tour around the base of Uluru with an informative guide. A short guided walk into Mutitjulu Waterhole at the base of the rock is also included. ayersrockresort.com.au
THE NEW WAYS TO ENJOY ULURU
> Cave Art Tour As well as their dot painting classes, the folk at Maruku Arts also offer tours to the caves at the base of Uluru. A local guide leads you down ancient story paths, explains the art found in caves and demonstrates how Anangu traditional tools were used. They also have a gallery at the Uluru-Kata Tjuta Cultural Centre. maruku.com.au
JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O UL U R U.
> Field of Light (above) As darkness falls, Field of Light, an exhibition by celebrated British artist Bruce Munro, illuminates the desert. Walk through a garden of 50,000 spindles of light in a spectrum of wildflower colours. Open until 31 December 2020. ayersrockresort.com.au > Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park walks Experience the wonder and awe of the Red Centre’s spiritual heart on walks including Kata Tjuta’s 7.5km Valley of the Winds walk and Uluru’s 12km base walk. parksaustralia.gov.au > Sounds of Silence If you miss the Tali Wiru season, opt instead for Sounds of Silence, a desert dining experience in full view of Uluru that runs all-year round. ayersrockresort.com.au JE T S TA R.C O M
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—Raft building, mud wrestling, night safaris... oh my! Child-friendly holidays at Green Camp in Bali are anything but your typical kids’ club vacation, finds Sue White—
“Ollie! Ollie! Ollie!” As a dozen people aged five to 50 chant my son’s name, I resist the urge to bite my fingernails. Instead, I force myself to gaze skyward as my five-year-old inches further and further up the seemingly endless coconut tree. He is secure, of course (as secure as a climbing harness and rope can be), but still, I am his mother and it is a long way from comforting terra firma. I try to forget that I could be lying by a pool in nearby Ubud right now instead of testing my boundaries in the jungle. Still, that’s the point of Green Camp (greencampbali.com): a chance to enjoy a different type of family bonding beyond the usual “flop and drop” holiday most people think of when heading to Bali. We have signed up for a three-day twonight sustainability-focused family holiday camp in the jungles of Bali. Run by the Green School (greenschool.org) people, the hands-on camps combine education in nature and eco consciousness with Balinese culture, offering nonstop fun and a unique opportunity for parents and kids to connect. Together with nine other families from across the globe, we’ll
“T HERE IS A DEEP SENSE OF PE ACE A N D A MINI A DREN AL INE RUSH FR O M K N O WIN G T H AT A N
be mud wrestling, building – and riding – our own bamboo rafts and hanging out sans tech screens in a peaceful natural environment. Exploring the two-storey lodge my son and I are sharing with another family, I realise this is a bit more luxurious than your average campsite – the striking bamboo building is comfortably appointed with mosquito-netted beds, couches and a tea station. Oh, and a composting toilet – two actually – which require the use of water and sawdust, not just paper. That is a few steps up from the recycled toilet paper usage I was feeling so smug about at home. Our education begins right here – the lodge’s thoughtful design, with high ceilings providing natural cooling and the outdoors seamlessly integrating with the indoor space, is a lesson in sustainable living. Outside, butterflies hover and frogs croak in the lush gardens. Wandering along its plant-lined paths, I breathe in the fresh air and am enveloped with two emotions I rarely experience simultaneously: there’s a deep sense of peace and a mini adrenaline rush from knowing that an adventure lies ahead. While adventures are important features of our weekend, so is getting a sense of Bali’s unique culture. The program starts with a session that sees families from South Korea, China, Chile and Australia delving into a typical Balinese tradition – making canang sari, the small offerings filled with flowers that are found in every home. It is slow, but we are told that the locals – old and young – quickly learn to be fast: each household needs at least 20 canang a day. Ollie and I have better luck with our second task – the large fruit offering known as gebogan. Even with a 30-minute time limit, ours looks good, although my decision to let my son design it leads to a higher than traditional muffin-to-fruit ratio. The majority of the weekend is focused on working with our children or with other families, but we do take one session apart. While the kids pound and melt chocolate from cacao, we tour the world-famous Green School (just in case we feel enthused to make this sort
of lifestyle slightly more permanent), a short stroll away across the Ayung River. We inspect the bamboo classroom buildings that inspire architects from around the world and hear about the after-school program for local kids (the programs, covered partially through Green Camp fees, are not paid in Indonesian rupiah but by the student bringing in five kilos of rubbish at the start of each semester). We also discuss how Green School, founded by the visionary jewellery designer turned ecowarrior John Hardy, manages to not only generate all of its own power but also sell excess back to the grid. “Locals thought the founder was crazy when he started building here,” says our smiling facilitator, Ryan, a former primary school teacher who says Green Camp is his dream job because he gets to camp 24/7. Back at our camp, Day Two dawns like most in Bali – hot and sunny – although today us adults will be working hard to keep up with our kids. First comes rafting, a task that is harder than it sounds given we have less than an hour to design and construct the vessel that will
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later carry us down the Ayung River, our only tools being tyres, rubber, bamboo and a pair of scissors. Again, Ollie dictates the terms and as the only child in our building team of four, he lands a position on his own “tiered” tyre in the centre of our raft : a design that not only keeps him secure but makes him feel like a king as we float down the Ayung. The water is low but although that means we have no fear of being soaked by raging rapids, the buckets of water thrown on us by Green Camp staff running alongside on the riverbanks do the job superbly. While rafting followed by climbing those incredibly high coconut trees would be plenty of adrenaline for one day, today’s program also includes something my son has been looking forward to all week: an exhilarating but exhausting session of Mepantigan, a Balinese martial art conducted in a large pit of mud. Much to Ollie’s pleasure, adults and children alike emerge covered, although the mandatory hugs at the end of each wrestling round mean there are no hard feelings among our wrestling pairs. We quickly fall into a rhythm, embracing Green Camp’s three-part approach to adventure (every activity should be fun, safe and help you learn something). I enjoy each activity – from building bamboo egg slides and painting with natural dyes to, surprise, surprise, mud wrestling – as much as Ollie, with the possible exception of the night safari where I am sure the poor snakes that were pulled out of trees for a show-and-tell would have preferred being left to snooze in peace. All this shared activity leads to some fairly quick bonding. By the second day, parents talk and talk, swapping stories of child rearing across the globe; kids take off together to play;
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and my son goes from shy to downright talkative, breaking only to play with Lemon the cat or wait his turn to bang the gong that calls everyone to each activity. The only complaint from a Byron Bay couple is that their daughters are so busy with other kids they barely see them, while another parent confesses that after the previous week lolling around poolside in Bali, the idea of a schedule – even a fun one – has required a mental shift . Conversations flow easily, especially during the communal meals enjoyed in the dining room looking out onto the trees, or on cushions and low tables in an upstairs nook. We enjoy mostly plant-based local delicacies such as leafy moringa curry, gado gado and spicy eggplant, with many of the ingredients grown on-site and served on banana leaf-covered natural fibre plates. Our final evening, as we sit side by side on the floor eating with our hands, as is custom in the megibung (traditional Balinese banquet) we are tucking into, Ollie offers a concise commentary rarely heard from a young child in the context of tofu: “They really have good cooks here,” he says. Nodding, I mentally add this to my list of the dozens of moments we will treasure as a family, alongside all the new skills we’ve both learned. Because, back at that coconut tree, it wasn’t only the kids who scaled great heights this weekend. When he rappelled back down to earth, Ollie had just four words for me: “Your turn now, Mum.” JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O B AL I.
HOW TO G REEN C A MP > Located next to the world-renowned Green School, near Ubud in Bali, Green Camp offers programs for kids, youth and families throughout the year. Experiences range from one to 14 days; including a three-day, two-night family camp which suits children five to 14 and their parents. greencampbali.com
JE T S TA R.C O M
> Green School is acknowledged as one of the world’s leading environmental campuses, where children from across the globe – including the kids of tech billionaires and celebrities – learn to be “changemakers” of the future. It was recently named as a School of the Future in a World Economic Forum report and currently has more than 800 children between ages three and 18 attending its courses. Tours of Green School are available for interested families and a new Green School has just opened in New Zealand. Other locations are set to launch in South Africa and Mexico. greenschool.org
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Christchurch —After exploring the chic wine bars and eclectic coffee dens of this South Island city, Glenn Cullen discovers the adrenaline-pumping thrills that await in the New Zealand countryside—
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Tap into taste With more than 30 choices of local vino to try by the glass, Not Without You (nwy.co.nz) could be the most stacked wine bar in NZ. This afterhours gem is a whole lot more than the total of what you can tipple, however. From the wooden tables to the brews, almost everything is sourced from the region. Head there on a Friday, grab the generous cheese platter and some local smoked meats or fish and a beer and you will probably find yourself settled in for the evening.
Up the rush
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Australia’s “Ninja Warriors” have much to answer for. You don’t need to be carved out of granite like the contestants on the TV show but it does pay to have your wits about when you visit the Adrenalin Forest (adrenalin-forest.co.nz) in Spencerville. Set among the towering pines is a series of eight obstacle courses that challenge your head, heart, sense of balance and fear of heights as they increase in difficulty. (Relax, you are clipped in.)
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Go to market Christchurch’s natural aesthetic has not always translated into city chic but the September opening of the Riverside Market (riverside.nz) will surely bring the punters back to town. Located on the banks of the very English Avon River, it is a heaving den of 30 independent food outlets and 40 fresh produce stalls open seven days a week. Smartly furnished, it is set to become the city centre’s place to eat, drink and be merry.
Smell (and drink) the coffee From the Congo to Colombia and a dozen countries in between, C4 Coffee (c4coffee.co.nz) on Fitzgerald Avenue has more international blends than you can poke a plunger at. Part café, part coffee emporium, part hipster hangout – it could all be a little too “now” if the brews weren’t so good and the staff so friendly.
Be captivated by culture Let’s hear it for the poi (a Polynesian dance). And titi tōrea (stick games). They are just a couple of things you could be called upon to participate in during the Ko Tāne Māori cultural experience (willowbank.co.nz). The afternoon begins with a guided tour of native New Zealand kiwi and kea, followed by interactive Māori cultural experiences and performances, and concluding with a traditional hāngī (food cooked in pits) meal.
Change your perspective Christchurch wears its history of tectonic tumult on its proverbial sleeve. Quake City (canterburymuseum.com) – an exhibition that gives perspective on the earthquakes that have rocked the region – is testament to that and to the resilience of the human spirit. The museum shares the city’s story through history, science and human emotion via the accounts of earthquake survivors.
Be cool It turns out that -18°C is extremely cold! Fortunately, it is just a brief but enjoyable icy moment in the storm dome at the International Antarctic Centre (iceberg.co.nz). Christchurch has a storied history, being a regular departure point for some of the 20th century’s most extraordinary explorers, such as Robert Falcon Scott, heading to the frozen continent. Their travails are told here through image, film and hands-on displays alongside a more modern history of the coldest, windiest and driest landmass on earth.
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> They do love a good mountain in the South Island of New Zealand. There are snow-capped mountains. There are mountains that rise off the ocean floor like a giant shark’s tooth and pierce the sky. There are mountains that have hosted Frodo and the Lord of the Rings cast three times over. But on a crisp spring-like day in Christchurch, I am here to praise the valleys. Wanting to cycle but not being gifted with the type of granite thighs required, I think I prefer riding on the flats and simply admiring the mountains, rather than attempting to scale them on two wheels. To that end, a daytrip from the outskirts of the city to the lush banks of the Little River with bike tour company Natural High (naturalhigh.co.nz) fits the bill pretty well. Flanked by the mighty Southern Alps to the west and pierced by the Avon River in the north, with long stretches of undulating terrain between, Christchurch and its surrounds are a natural fit for cycle touring. The rebuild of the city has only enhanced its bike-ability – the completion of the Southern Motorway in mid 2020 will add a dedicated cycle path from the centre of town. For now, the best ride starts about 15km from downtown in Prebbleton. The ride, 45km in duration, quickly goes from sleepy suburbia to sublime countryside, much of it on the now disused rail lines that serviced the feeder towns along the Banks Peninsula to the South Island capital from 1886 to 1962. These days the tracks – invariably on a flat gradient like most train lines – are covered in compacted gravel, making it a comfortable ride on a hybrid or mountain bike. The eight kilometre ride
“E ARLY SPRIN G L A MB S FR OL IC RIG H T BESIDE YO U, C O MPE T IN G F OR YO UR AT TEN T IO N.”
to the township of Lincoln only really gets the legs warmed up before the countryside opens up on to a shingle track via the Halswell River on the way to Neills Road. A four-kilometre diversion to Tai Tapu and one of its wineries is an option or you can power right through to Motukarara as I do with guide and Natural High owner Steve Inns on my private tour. Here, early spring lambs frolic right beside you, competing for your attention before the rather less endearing lake flies that swarm along the mudflats have their say. Note to self and everyone else: ride with your mouth shut and save room for something to eat at Gebbies Garden Cafe instead.
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The Little River Rail Trail from Christchurch to Little River.
You can cycle yearround but spring and autumn usually offer less extremes of weather. Natural High Bike Hire and Cycle Tours (naturalhigh. co.nz) can sort out all the gear, pick-ups and put together a guided or self-guided single or multi-day tour for individuals or groups.
HIG HL IG H TS Tackling some majestic countryside and views without backbreaking big hills.
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From here the Southern Alps disappear into the background and we straightline near the lagoon-like waters of Lake Ellesmere where southern right and humpback whales will periodically retreat. Then we continue along to our ultimate destination: the peach-hued Little River railway station. For those big of lung and strong of leg, the rather less undulating 42km to the gorgeous French-settled township of Akaroa makes an obvious Day Two but for us the journey ends. A poke around the Little River Gallery (littlerivergallery. com) or beer at the Little River Hotel & Bar (littleriverhotel.co.nz) are solid options in this quiet town but the lure of what seems to be nine incongruously placed wheat storage units has my immediate attention. As a city boy whose lasting childhood memory of silos comes from the 1985 movie Witness, where one of John Book’s (Harrison Ford) protagonists meets his maker after suffocating in several tonnes of grain, I am just a little on edge as I enter the oversized metal drum – the night’s accommodation. I need not have worried. The architecturally designed silos at SiloStay (silostay.kiwi.nz) were custom-built from new materials and are classic Kiwi quirkiness laid out in a giant tin. The funky two-storey space is equipped with a kitchenette and seating area that winds its way to the upper floor bedroom, shower and balcony via a sculptured steel staircase. After a day of touring on flat land, this is the sort of vertical adventure I can get used to... SILO S TAY IN TERIOR
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Kenzan Japanese Collins Place, 45 Collins Street, Melbourne +61 (03) 9654 8933 | kenzan.com.au
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Visit Kenzan Japanese restaurant for some of the freshest sushi and sashimi dishes in Melbourne, along with daily changing à la carte dishes and surprising specials. The restaurant has been in its current CBD location for 38 years, and is the most awarded Japanese restaurant in Melbourne. Be welcomed by friendly staff for an authentic Japanese dining experience.
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the cut > THE BEST OF WHERE TO EAT, DRINK AND PL AY
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> Is it a bus? Is it a train? The city’s O-Bahn travels at speeds of up to 100km/h on tracks but can also traverse normal roads.
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> Residents in this Asian nation have the fastest walking speed in the world, according to the British Council.
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> Nara in Japan, Beijing in China and Wellington in New Zealand are all sister cities to the Australian capital.
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Adelaide —Surrounded by wine regions and fertile farmland, the South Australia capital is no stranger to great food. Local Alexis BuxtonCollins tours the pick of the city’s eateries old and new— TOPIARY
> PEEL ST.
> BOTANIC GARDENS RESTAURANT. Chef Paul Baker and his team take full advantage of their 51-hectare Botanic Gardens kitchen garden to craft a menu that changes so often, it is printed daily. From bay leaves to warrigal greens, the menu lists what they are currently harvesting and the $115 degustation lets you sample the pick of the bunch in this naturallight-filled restaurant. botanicgardensrestaurant.com.au
Josie Withers, Duy Dash
> TOPIARY. Vegan and vegetarian options abound at this nursery café in the Adelaide foothills. Beautifully plated dishes highlight the colour and texture of vegetables from the edible garden and represent exceptional value with most options under $30. Bread, cheese and smallgoods are made in-house and nothing is wasted. Don’t be surprised to find seconds ricotta on the gnocchi. thetopiarycafe.com.au
seasonal B OTA NIC GARDENS RES TAUR A N T
> MINESTRA. It’s not unusual to see locals swapping backyard produce for store credit at this diner in Adelaide’s inner north. The constant supply of homegrown produce means the menu is always changing but Calabrese staples such as minestra (a stew with greens and whatever’s in season) and juicy polpette (meatballs) drizzled with house-made chilli oil are always available. minestra.net
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Located in an inner-city laneway crowded with small bars, this restaurant is often the most happening spot. Asian-influenced cuisine celebrating freshness is divided into “smaller” and “larger” dishes (believe the hype when it comes to the latter – portions are very generous). One of the few mainstays is the sweet and spicy banana blossom chicken salad. peelst.com.au
flavours > THE SALOPIAN INN. McLaren Vale might qualify as regional dining but this charming 1851 homestead is just 45 minutes from town. Much of the fresh produce comes from chef Karena Armstrong’s huge organic garden and there is a strong Asian influence to the seafood-heavy menu. Plan to linger – you will need to choose from more than 200 gins and starters such as plump prawn dumplings and tender braised kangaroo tail before even reaching the mains. salopian.com.au
SWEET STUFF Follow the crowds to Henley Beach’s Bottega Gelateria for thick, creamy scoops made with imported Piemontese hazelnuts and seasonal fruit, including Riverland blood orange or grapefruit. 249a Seaview Road
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> LADY BURRA BREWHOUSE BAR & KITCHEN. An inner-city pedestrian mall is an unlikely location for Adelaide’s first microbrewery but don’t let that stop you. Five core beers are accompanied by seasonal specials, however it is the food that sets Lady Burra apart. It is quite possibly the city’s best Portuguese fare – think pub grub such as crispy wings marinated in spices alongside pizzas and petiscos, the Portuguese version of tapas. ladyburrabrewhouse.com.au
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> LOT 100. Save the driving and get the best of the Adelaide Hills at this one-stopshop with an onsite brewery, distillery and winery (they also have fresh juices) in Hay Valley. The tropical Mismatch Session Ale is always pouring on one of 40 taps and the simple Italian-influenced mod Oz menu of sharing plates includes pappardelle with rich pork and fennel ragu and beef tartare accompanied by charred leek and spent grain from the brewery. A smaller menu is available in the outdoor courtyard. lot100.com.au
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> SPARKKE AT THE WHITMORE. The motto at this female-owned and run brewery is “made by women, for everyone”. Limited-edition brews come from the small nanobrewery and the gorgeous 180-year-old building’s refit also includes a breezy rooftop terrace. In the kitchen, chef Emma McCaskill’s inclusive menu reflects her Indian heritage. sparkke.com
> SWEET AMBER. This cult brewery’s beer, with its cool movie-inspired labels, can be found in three locations but their cosy original home in the seaside suburb of Semaphore is worth visiting. Grab a comfy couch, choose between four taps then have your beer and eat it too with one of their aleinfused woodfired pizzas. sweetamber.com.au
> LITTLE BANG BREWING CO. It will take a few visits to try all of the 20-plus offerings at this taproom just east of the CBD. Fortunately, regular trivia, movie and comedy nights provide plenty of excuses to stop by. And with a recent move to larger digs at Stepney, a short drive east of the city, there is now a permanent kitchen serving light East Asian-inspired dishes such as bun cha pork meatballs. littlebang.com.au
THIS IS DIFFERENT Big Shed Brewing Company is famous for its Golden Gaytimeinspired beer but there is nothing experimental about their simple, filling burgers that complement their tipples. bigshed.beer
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> FINO VINO. After delighting diners in Willunga and the Barossa for years, Fino finally has a city outpost. And while the location may be new, the formula is the same. Food and wine from small producers highlight simple, fresh flavours, such as tomatoes with garlic and bone marrow vinaigrette. Add in the attentive service, an open kitchen and long communal tables and dining here feels like being invited into someone’s home. finovino.net.au
Hidden down a laneway near Victoria Square, this breezy bistro is all about escaping the nine to five. The airy interior is filled with upbeat tunes from breakfast onwards and the food is equally light. Korean bossam wraps swap pork for pulled barbecued eggplant on a menu that ditches courses for plants, seafood and meat sections so you can get straight into the good stuff. parttimelover.com.au
> NIDO. Handmade pasta is the highlight of the traditional Italian fare at this cosy Hyde Park venue. But there’s also room for innovation in dishes such as the deliciously rich rootello bonnato – an Australian twist on the classic Italian vitello tonnato in which kangaroo replaces veal. nidobarpasta.com.au
new hotspots > STEM. CLASSIC CUTS Herringbone’s earth-to-table philosophy means no gimmicks, just the basics done well. Don’t miss the chargrilled chicken. herringbonerestaurant.com.au S TEM
Everything at this cavernous 180seat wine bar and restaurant, on Hindley Street in the CBD, is designed to impress. Abundant greenery separates the booths and communal tables, and the Mediterraneanleaning menu includes treats such as “lasagne-style” gnocchi with osso bucco baked in the woodfired oven. If you’re searching for a wine pairing, visit the 1400 bottle walk-in cellar. stembarandrestaurant.com.au
Josie Withers, Josh Geelen, Morgan Sette
> MADRE. Come for the millennial pink and midnight blue interior, stay for the pizza. Seawater imported from Naples and a seven-year-old sourdough starter go into a fluffy, lightly singed base worth lingering over. With just seven flavours, ordering is simple at this CBD haunt. madre-adl.com
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> PART TIME LOVER.
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cafés + > REAL FALAFEL. Gold and crispy on the outside and bright green on the inside, the chickpea patties at this Adelaide Central Market stall are a revelation. Enjoy them in pita pockets, in bowls loaded with other goodies or alongside a range of other vegetarian Middle Eastern classics. fb.me/realfalafel
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> THE BIG TABLE. This retro café is the perfect place to take in the sights and sounds of the 150-year-old Adelaide Central Market. Grab a stool and tuck into hearty breakfasts prepared with ingredients from vendors metres away – the green eggs and ham with parsley pesto, prosciutto and thick slabs of toast is one of the city’s favourite breakfasts. fb.me/thebigtableacm
> THE FLYING FIG. Situated on a leafy North Adelaide corner, this homely Jewish delicatessen is a treasure. Expect to find several variations on a classic reuben (including one with housemade pastrami on weekends), along with fresh bagels, lox and pickled vegetables. Skip coffee for one of the delicious fruit and vinegar shrubs from the specials board. theflyingfigdeli.com.au
Josie Withers, Lumiant Photography
> JAMFACE. Chef Poh Ling Yeow has closed her Adelaide Central Market stall but you can still taste her delicious “fun dining” at the Adelaide Farmers’ Market. Catch her dishing up paella from a giant pan every Sunday before perusing the baked treats in the jam-packed “cakequarium”. fb.me/jamfacebypoh
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> ABBOTS AND KINNEY. You will find Abbots and Kinney’s delectable pastries at plenty of cafés around town but for the best selection, head straight to the source at the flagship Pirie Street store. Light, flaky croissants are the basis for savoury treats such as the Jean Claude Van Hamme. abbotsandkinney.com
TA K E A B O W The inner west’s Kalymnos Pastries was recently named Best Patisserie in Australia for their Greek pastries. kpaustralia.com
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—Hit refresh after a day sightseeing at these wonderfully quirky bars, where flaming cocktails and preening parakeets mean no two nights are the same—
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> #FINDTHEPHOTOBOOTH This moody den doesn’t have a front door – instead, you enter via a photo booth in another bar on Soi 11, near Nana BTS station. The entry may be gimmicky but the cocktails are not. #FindThePhotoBooth is run by four of Asia’s premier bar keeps – local Ronnaporn Kanivichaporn, Hidetsugu Ueno from Tokyo’s Bar High Five, Nick Wu from Taipei’s Bar Mood and Colin Chia from Singapore’s Nutmeg and Clove. Inside, you will find dim lights, dark leather and a soothing escape from the Bangkok heat. Turn up during Aperitivo Hour (6pm-8pm) for cocktails at marked-down prices. D O N ’ T MI S S : The great burgers at nearby Daniel Thaiger. fb.me/FindThePhotoBooth
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> 72 COURTYARD Each of the eight venues surrounding the fairy-light strewn deck in the middle of this popular post-work hangout in Thonglor has its own deal, so pick your fave. If beer is your thing, Beer Belly has about 30 on tap. Lucky Fish offers a cool Japanese vibe, CarBar has the best wine deals and jazz bar Evil Man Blues is big on whiskey. They also offer a deep dive of counter snacks and meals, including fried chicken knuckles and budget pizza, plus there are regular live music and themed nights. Hours for the best deals vary, so do a quick reccy before you pick your bar stool. D O N ’ T MI S S : The Ovaltine flatbread at Beer Belly. It is pizza bread topped with Ovaltine and condensed milk – odd but amazing. 72courtyard.com
72 C O URT YARD
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> JACK’S BAR Inside a ramshackle wooden shed near Saphan Taksin BTS station, Jack’s Bar comes complete with a preening parakeet sitting on the shoulder of the cashier. No matter what time you turn up, a large beer will not put a hole in your wallet – and that is despite being so close to the Chao Phraya River, you could dangle your feet in (please don’t!). Grabbing a seat along the rickety wooden ledge and watching the boats float past is one of the great Bangkok experiences. D O N ’ T MI S S : Stor Pad Kung – stirfried prawns and local beans. fb.me/xleksilombar
> RED SKY Early happy hours can dip into shopping time but that is no problem with this rooftop bar as it is located on the 55th floor of the huge CentralWorld mall. Get comfy in a pod chair or in one of the slouchy red sofas between 4pm and 5pm for buy-one-get-one-free cocktails and enjoy the same deal on snacks such as mini beef sliders and parmesan French fries. D O N ’ T MI S S : The Cinnamon Fizz with its mix of cinnamoninfused whiskey, lime juice and ginger ale – it is perfect for cutting through the late afternoon heat. bangkokredsky.com
B A N G KO K
LÉ CAFÉ DES S TAGIAIRES
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T UBA DESIG N FURNIT URE & RES TAUR A N T
> OCTAVE ROOFTOP LOUNGE & BAR Bangkok is all about glitzy rooftop bars but this 49th-floor space is urban glam without being stuffy (they let you wear sandals). Between 5pm and 7pm, any of their 10 “Colors of Thailand” cocktails are half price. The 360° skyline views are free and the bar snacks, such as pork belly sliders with soy and ginger, are worth trying. Find it on floors 45 to 49 of the Bangkok Marriot Hotel Sukhumvit in trendy Thonglor. D O N ’ T MI S S : The seats on the skyscraper side – they get the best sunset views. fb.me/OctaveMarriott
> LE CAFÉ DES STAGIAIRES
> TUBA DESIGN FURNITURE & RESTAURANT If you like your drinks strong and served with a side of quirk, walk past the cabinets of knick-knacks and taxidermied falcons and take a seat. At this bar, located in a vintage furniture showroom six minutes drive from Ekkamai BTS station, you can sip buy-one-get-one-free cocktails and beer between 5pm and 8pm against a backdrop of 1970s troll dolls and old TVs. It is an unusual mix, but it works. D O N ’ T MI S S : The Light House cocktail made with triple sec, blue curacao and rum. papaya55.com/tuba-bkk.html
If you want to forget you are in Bangkok for a bit, this quaint bar transports you straight to Paris. Tucked away in the busy Silom district, you will love its shabby chic, Parisian café vibe complete with croque monsieur and mussels mariniere on the menu. They have two happy hours (5pm-8pm, midnight to 1am), the perfect time to order a beer, wine or cocktail. Fancy going virgin? They offer a selection of alcohol-free tonics and mocktails. D O N ’ T MI S S : The Wednesday night buy-one-get-one-free pizzas. bangkok.cafestagiaires.com
The area around Phra Khanong BTS station teeters on the edge of gentrification with its tiny back alleys of unpretentious street food stalls jostling with hipster record stores. But it is home to (an almost) well-kept local secret, where happy hour beer joins two-for-one classic cocktails between 5pm and 9pm. Expect lava lamps, old TV shows projected on walls and music to get you singing. D O N ’ T MI S S : The flaming-sugar topped Caipirinha cocktail. fb.me/cloudsacrossthemoon.bkk
CLO U DS ACR O S S T HE M O O N
> CLOUDS ACROSS THE MOON
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T HE C U T
A N AT O M Y OF A DIS H
—This delectable street corner favourite looks simple but packs a flavour punch—
W O R D S _ K A I T LY N PA L M E R-A L L E N
HAINANESE CHICKEN SINGAPORE RICE > W H AT IS I T?
> G O W I T H T HE GR A IN
It is deceptively simple but Hainanese chicken rice does not want for flavour, packing chicken goodness into the silky poached meat, fragrant rice and tangy chilli sauce (and often cucumber garnishes). Served at hawker centres across the city-state, it also pops up on menus in restaurants and hotels. While the price (and the recipe) may vary, one thing remains the same: Hainanese chicken rice is Singaporean comfort food at its best.
Arguably, the most important part of the dish isn’t the chicken, it is the rice – it has to be fragrant and good enough to eat on its own. To stretch out the flavour from the chook as much as possible, the broth from cooking the chicken is used to boil the rice. But first, rendered excess fat from inside the bird’s cavity is used to stirfry the grains with garlic. Hot stock, pandan leaves and ginger slices are then added to build aroma and depth.
> C O OK IN G T HE C H O OK
> B U T T HERE’S M ORE
Hainanese chicken should be smooth – some even say “slurpable” – with a layer of jelly-like fat beneath the skin. The process to perfection starts with steeping a whole chicken in boiling water until it is fully cooked. The bird is then plunged into an icy bath, locking in flavour while keeping the meat tender and preserving the skin. Before the chicken is cut into bitesized slices, it is hung to dry. You will spot these succulent beauties hanging in a row at local food stalls.
The accompaniments sneak even more chicken into the dish. A small bowl of red chilli dipping sauce infused with ginger, lime and chicken fat adds the right amount of spicy and tangy flavours to every bite.
> AS CL U CK W O UL D H AVE I T Hainanese people began immigrating to Singapore in the 1800s and brought with them a meal called Wenchang chicken, believed to be what this dish is based on. Hainanese immigrants worked for British colonists until the Japanese occupation in the 1940s, when they had to find new ways to earn a living. This was when the first Hainanese chicken rice restaurant is said to have opened in Singapore.
Open Tue, Thu, Fri sat & Sun
10% OFF TOURS PROMO CODE Visit Queen Victoria Market, Melbourne’s iconic and authentic open-air Market. Enjoy fresh and specialty produce, hand-made and unique products, clothing and souvenirs, great coffee and food, and a buzzing Market atmosphere. Be sure to take the Ultimate Foodie Tour where you’ll indulge in some of the best food the Market has to offer.
Melbourne´s Marketplace CORNER OF ELIZABETH & VICTORIA STREETS, MELBOURNE
FLYJETSTAR
T HE C U T
> This famed Canberra dining destination is not only home to a farm which facilitates plot-to-plate dining, it has its own vineyard and smokehouse. Feast on the charcuterie board packed with the farm’s produce or bring the estate to you and order gourmet takeaway from Pialligo Urban in Braddon, the estate’s city outpost. thepialligoestate.com.au
PIALLIGO ESTATE
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FOR LUNCH? —Urban farms are booming and as the paddock-to-plate movement breaks new ground, these are the restaurants bringing a pastoral taste to cities—
> It’s the city’s newest urban oasis and the crown atop Burwood Brickworks, Melbourne’s brand-new sustainable shopping centre. Wander the sprawling gardens of Acre Farm & Eatery’s 2500-square metre rooftop space or wine, dine and unwind in the greenhouse café, restaurant and bar. The farm food menu includes crudo of local snapper with chilli, horseradish and flowers from the garden. acrefarmeatery.com.au
ACRE FARM & EATERY
> Enjoy a garden respite in a buzzy city. Less than a five-minute drive from the shopping malls of Singapore’s glitzy Orchard Road, Open Farm Community champions sustainable growing methods, recycling and minimal waste. Order from a menu of innovative dishes, including golden snapper ceviche with buah keluak, ginger and barley. openfarmcommunity.com
W O R D S _ K A I T LY N PA L M E R-A L L E N
James Khing
OPEN FARM C OMM U NIT Y
What’s your perfect holiday match?
FAMILY?
ADVENTURE?
ROMANTIC GETAWAY?
Go to www.jetstar.com/hawaii to take our quiz and find out what your travel type is. You’ll receive a personalised Hawai‘i itinerary and be in with a chance to win the grand prize.
What are you waiting for?
*Competition closes March 31, 2020. Terms and conditions apply. See www.jetstar.com/hawaii Authorised under permit numbers: NSW LTPS/20/41717; ACT TP 20/00119; SA Licence No: T20/106
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FAS HIO N
—Invest in slow fashion with these sustainable pieces that do not cost the earth earth—
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1. Franja necklace, $79, elkthelabel.com 2. Ready For Action bra in Bondi Speckle, $69, nimbleactivewear.com 3. Organic Scoop Tee, $70, vegethreads.com 4. Slouch Athletic tank in pale pink, $90, bassike.com 5. Walker cap in Bone, $59, willandbear.com 6. Women’s long sleeve round neck T-shirt in light grey marl, $49.95, boody.com.au 7. Annie short, $159, outlanddenim.com 8. Le Mu x Salt Gypsy zipper tote in Microstripe, $69, saltgypsy. com 9. Hold Your Pose 7/8 tight in Port Royal, $109, nimbleactivewear.com.
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the insider > JETSTAR NEWS, ENTERTAINMENT AND MAPS
MARGARET RIVER PAG E
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Frances Andrijich
EN T ERTA IN MEN T
PA G E
> Let us entertain you with a huge selection of movies, TV shows, podcasts, music videos and much more.
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> Consider your next holiday destination, with maps of the Jetstar network routes, across Australia, NZ and Asia.
P UZZL ES
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> The flight time will fly by as you enjoy some mind-expanding sudoku, a crossword and even some kid-friendly jokes.
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Jetstar news SAVING FOR THE FU T URE Vulnerable families in Asia find pathways out of poverty with financial education supported by StarKids and World Vision. By Margaret Spencer.
> The largest city in Myanmar, one
JOINING A SAVINGS GRO UP HAS HELPED DAW AYE C O N TIN UE TO INVEST IN HER BUSINESS.
DAW AYE (RIG H T) N OW EARNS D O UBLE T HE PROFI T FRO M HER SH OP.
selling betel nut from a small roadside shop, barely enough to care for her five-year-old daughter. But she managed to scrape together about $2 to make her first deposit. After three months, she applied for her first loan of around $35 to stock her shop with a wide range of snacks. After paying back this loan, she took out another for $100 to expand the shop further. Now Daw Aye saves up to $20 a month and her shop brings in more than double the profit. “I would like to thank World Vision for teaching us this practice,” she says. “I encourage other people in my neighbourhood to participate in the savings group too.”
YOUR CHANGE CAN HELP MAKE A CHANGE! Consider donating to StarKids using change from your inflight purchases or any loose change you have at the end of your flight. We also accept debit/ credit cards. Ask your cabin crew for assistance.
Kyaw Thet Tun, Frances Andrijich
of south-east Asia’s least urbanised countries, Yangon has experienced rapid population growth in recent years and is set to have up to 16 million residents by 2055. But as more rural families are drawn to the city in search of a better life, finding well-paid work can be elusive. This is especially true in the industrial township of Dagon Seikkan in this city’s east. Many families here struggle to survive on low incomes from casual labour, petty trading or factory work. They are often forced to turn to high-interest loans and then become trapped in a neverending cycle of debt. In urban communities like this across Asia, World Vision is working with StarKids’ support to help vulnerable families improve their incomes and strengthen their ability to manage money so they can meet their children’s needs in the long term. Savings groups are a cornerstone of this work. These groups of around 15 community members come together to save money and learn basic financial skills. Each member can take out a loan from their group’s pooled savings, which they pay back at a low interest rate. Saving money seemed like an impossible task when Daw Aye first joined her local savings group. She was earning less than $6.50 a day
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RAINBOW CONNECTION Once again Jetstar was a supporter of the annual Midsumma event, Australia’s premier queer arts and cultural festival.
Even our furry little friends wanted to help celebrate diversity.
IN S U PP O R T IN G E V EN T S S U C H A S M ID S U M M A, O U R T E A M C A N TA K E PR IDE IN T H E O R G A N IS AT IO N’S C O M M I T M EN T T O DI V ER SI T Y A N D IN CL U SIO N, T H EM SELV ES A N D T H EIR C O M M U N I T Y.
The Jetstar Queens were helping to highlight the message of acceptance and respect through the organisation and the broader community.
FLY DIRECT TO THE MARGARET RIVER REGION
> Western Australia’s Margaret River region is renowned for
its food and wine, pristine beaches and myriad walking trails. And now, it is closer than ever with Jetstar flying direct from Melbourne to the Margaret River region from March 25, making it the first – and only – commercial airline to offer this service. The (around four hours) flights are scheduled three times a week – Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays – on A320 aircraft. Visit jetstar.com/busselton-margaret-river.
T H E JE T S TA R T E A M W ERE AL S O A BL E T O E XPL O RE T H E G RE AT S TALL S OF O T H ER O R G A N IS AT IO N S A N D H A N D O U T A FE W D R IN K B O T TL ES AT T H E S A M E T IM E - # H Y D R AT IO N.
Looking for a Private or Catholic School?
Private Schools Guide is Australia’s premier private schools information source.
Whether you’re looking for a Boarding School or Day School, Private Schools Guide now offers free personal assistance finding a private school for your child.
PRIVATE
get a flying start www.privateschoolsguide.com
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In-flight Entertainment MORE THAN 60 MOVIES AND 500 T V EPISODES AVAILABLE
FOR ONLY $13
> NEW RELEASE MOVIES.
© 2019 Warner Bros. Ent. All Rights Reserved
The Peanut Butter Falcon
Blinded by the Light
Comedy, Drama | M
Comedy, Drama | PG
A young man with Down syndrome runs away to follow his dream.
In 1987, a teenager learns to live life through the music of Bruce Springsteen.
© 2020 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.
© 2020 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.
Driven
Terminator: Dark Fate
Jojo Rabbit
Drama | MA15+
Action | MA15+
Comedy, Drama | M
Follows the meteoric rise of the golden boy of the auto industry, John DeLorean, and his iconic DeLorean Motor Company, through the eyes of Jim Hoffman.
Dani is living in Mexico when a Rev-9 travels back through time to kill her.
Follows a lonely German boy whose world view is turned upside down.
© 2020 WBEI
TM & © DC Comics ©2019 Warner Bros. Ent. All Rights Reserved
© 2020 Disney
The Goldfinch
Maleficent: Mistress of Evil
The Farewell
Joker
Drama | M
Fantasy | PG
Comedy, Drama | PG
Crime | MA15+
Theo was 13 when his mother was killed. The tragedy changes his life.
Maleficent: Mistress of Evil is a sequel to the 2014 box office hit.
A Chinese family schedules an impromptu wedding.
Arthur Fleck begins a slow descent into madness as he transforms into Joker.
PRE-PURCHASE IN-FLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT WHEN YOU BOOK YOUR FLIGHTS AND SAVE!
RATINGS G General. PG Parental guidance recommended. M Recommended for mature audiences.
MA15+ Not suitable for people under 15. Under 15s must be accompanied by a parent or adult guardian.
> FAMILY FLICKS.
© 2020 WBEI
© 2020 WBEI
© 2020 WBEI
Storks
The Ant Bully
Animation | PG
Animation | G
Storks deliver babies... or at least they used to. Now they deliver packages.
Lucas takes out his frustration on an ant hill. The ants shrink Lucas.
© 2020 WBEI
© 2020 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.
Willy Wonka & The Chocolate Factory
Space Jam
Ferdinand
Musical | G
Animation | G
Animation | G
When Willy Wonka promises a tour of his chocolate factory to five lucky kids, Charlie seeks the golden ticket. Thanks to his Grandpa Joe, Charlie gets the prize!
Michael Jordan teams up with Bugs Bunny – get ready for Space Jam!
The tale of Ferdinand, a giant bull who prefers flowers to fighting.
> WINNERS & NOMINEES.
> FAVOURITES.
© 2020 WBEI
© 2020 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.
Wedding Crashers
Bohemian Rhapsody
Comedy | MA15+
Drama | M
John Beckwith and Jeremy Klein, two partying divorce attorneys – and committed womanisers – have figured out a sure-fire way to meet women: they crash weddings.
A celebration of Queen, their music and their lead singer Freddie Mercury. The film traces the meteoric rise of the band through their iconic songs.
© 2020 WBEI
© 2020 WBEI
© 2020 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.
© 2020 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation and Paramount Pictures Corporation. All rights reserved.
The Last Samurai
The Bodyguard
The Shape of Water
Titanic
Action | MA15+
Comedy | M
Drama | MA15+
Romance | M
Nathan, hired by the Emperor of Japan, trains the country’s first army.
When Rachel receives death threats, she hires Frank, the best bodyguard.
Elisa and co-worker Zelda discover a secret classified experiment.
A rich girl and a poor boy meet on an ill-fated voyage.
EN T ER TA IN MEN T
> ALBUMS.
> TELEVISION.
© 2020 ABC Studios
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© Amazon
Black-ish (Season 6)
Tom Clancy’s Jack Ryan
Comedy | PG
Drama | MA15+
An African-American family pursues the American Dream.
Jack Ryan, a CIA analyst, is thrust into a field assignment for the first time.
Kiwanuka Michael Kiwanuka
British-Ugandan singer-songwriter Michael Kiwanuka presents Kiwanuka a stunning and soulful work that took him three years to complete. He produced the new album with US Grammy winner Danger Mouse. World War Joy The Chainsmokers
© 2020 WBEI
© 2020 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All rights reserved.
Scooby-Doo! And Guess Who? (Season 1)
Prairie Dog Manor
Kids | G
Takes the viewer on a firstperson journey that chronicles being a prairie dog.
The Mystery Inc. gang face their toughest mysteries yet.
Lifestyle | G
The third studio album from American DJ and production duo Alex Pall and Drew Taggart includes collaborations with 5 Seconds of Summer, Amy Shark, Bebe Rexha, Lennon Stella and Blink-182. You James Arthur
The third studio record from the British X-Factor artist (“Say You Won’t Let Go”). On this album he collabs with Ty Dolla $ign and Shotty Horroh for the hip-hop cut “Treehouse” and there’s plenty more for fans to enjoy. © STUDIO DRAGON
© 2020 ABC Studios
Hotel del Luna
Castle (Season 1)
Asian
Drama | PG
Man Wol is the CEO of Hotel del Luna. The hotel’s clientele consists of ghosts.
An author teams up with a detective to solve crimes.
© 2020 WBEI TM & © DC Comics
Doom Patrol Drama | MA15+
A re-imagining of one of DC’s most beloved group of outcast super heroes.
Hamish & Andy’s “Perfect” Holiday Comedy | PG
Hamish and Andy are back on the road in North America.
> PODCASTS & RADIO. The Bump Pure Gold KIIS Network: Kyle & Jackie O HIT Network: Carrie & Tommy NOVA Network: Chrissie, Sam & Browny The Christian O’Connell Breakfast Show: Gold FM The Hits ChangeMakers with Amanda Tattersall: Fair Treatment
ChillZone Osher Günsberg Podcast: Isaac Hanson The Property Couch: Bryce Holdaway and Ben Kingsley HIT Network: Fifi, Fev & Byron Lady Startup: Rachel Corbett with Abigail Forsyth No Filter: Mia Freedman with Candace Bushnell
W HE RE W E F LY Here’s how to get around our network – have fun planning your next trip.
INTERNATIONAL. Seoul Shanghai (Pudong)
Hefei
Osaka (Kansai)
Tokyo (Narita) Nagoya (Chubu)
Okinawa Guiyang
Taipei
Guangzhou Hanoi
Shantou/Jieyang Hong Kong Haikou
Tho Xuan Vinh Chiang Mai Dong Hoi
Da Nang Siem Reap Bangkok Phnom Penh
Yangon
Phuket Penang Medan
Hawaii (Honolulu)
Clark
Manila
Ho Chi Minh City
Phu Quoc
Kuala Lumpur
Singapore Jakarta Surabaya
Bali (Denpasar) Darwin Fiji (Nadi)
Cairns
Cook Islands (Rarotonga)
Brisbane
Gold Coast
Perth
Sydney Adelaide
Auckland
Melbourne (Tullamarine)
Wellington Christchurch
Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Jetstar Asia Operated by Jetstar Pacific Operated by Jetstar Japan
Queenstown
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DOMESTIC VIETNAM.
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DOMESTIC JAPAN.
Hanoi Sapporo
Hai Phong Thanh Hoa Vinh
Shonai
Dong Hoi Nagoya (Chubu)
Hue Da Nang Chu Lai Pleiku
Matsuyama Osaka Fukuoka Takamatsu Nagasaki Oita Kochi Kumamoto Miyazaki Kagoshima
Quy Nhon
Tokyo (Narita) (Kansai)
Tuy Hoa Buon Ma Thuot Nha Trang Da Lat Phu Quoc
Ho Chi Minh City
Okinawa Miyako (Shimojishima)
Operated by Jetstar Pacific
Operated by Jetstar Japan
AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND.
Darwin Cairns
Townsville Hamilton Whitsunday Coast Island Mackay Sunshine Coast
Ayers Rock (Uluru)
Brisbane Gold Coast
Ballina Byron
Perth
Newcastle Busselton Margaret River
Sydney
Adelaide
Melbourne (Tullamarine)
Auckland
Melbourne (Avalon) Wellington
Launceston Hobart Operated by Jetstar Airways
Christchurch Queenstown
Dunedin
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PICTURE B
QUIZ 1 Accounting for 75 per cent of the world’s tea production, what are the four biggest tea-producing countries? 2 Name the hand-held electronic reading device developed and marketed by Amazon. 3 Emma Watson stars in the 2019 period drama film based on which novel by American author Louisa May Alcott?
CROSSWORD Across 1 Prisons (5) 7 Eggplant dip, baba ... (8) 8 TV presenter, ... Brown (5) 10 Breeds (10) 12 Wry (8) 14 Witnesses (4) 16 Champion cyclist, ... Meares (4) 17 Fabled (8) 20 Ceremony of admission (10) 23 Used carpentry blade (5) 24 Surname of picture A (8) 25 First name of picture B (5) Down 1 Tasmanian senator, ... Lambie (6) 2 Hideout (4) 3 Norse god of thunder (4) 4 Artist and comedian with the autobiography, The Happiest Refugee (3,2) 5 INXS singer, Michael ... (9) 6 Student’s treatise (6) 9 Old photo colour (5) 11 River depth readings (9) 13 Surname of picture C (3) 15 Scares (off) (5) 16 Crops up (6) 18 Loan provider (6) 19 Wharves (5) 21 Honk (horn) (4) 22 Negative votes (4)
PICTURE C
4 What do you call a person who shoes horses’ hooves? 5 Which human blood type is considered the rarest in the world: AB-negative, AB-positive or B-negative? 6 How old was Jacinda Ardern when she became New Zealand’s Prime Minister in 2017? 7 Which two countries are the only nations to have participated at every Summer Olympic Games of the modern era?
CROSSWORD AND PUZZLES COMPILED BY LOVATTS
8 In which Australian state will you find the Big Prawn? 9 In a computer system, how many megabytes are in one gigabyte? 10 Name the actor (pictured far right) who voiced Olaf the friendly snowman in the hit 2013 Disney film Frozen. 11 A barometer is a scientific instrument used to predict weather. What does the device measure?
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12 In which Shakespeare play does the character Rosalind flee to the Forest of Arden and disguise herself as a boy? 13 Snaking 836 kilometres across the state, what is the longest river in Western Australia? 14 How many black keys are there on a standard 88-key piano? 15 Sportswoman Ellyse Perry has represented Australia in which two sports? 16 Name the four lobes of the brain.
Create words of 4 letters or more using the given letters once only, but always including the middle letter. Do not use proper names or plurals ending with S. See if you can find the 9-letter word using up all letters.
18 good
24 very good
32+ excellent
17 Dolly the sheep was the first mammal to be cloned from an adult somatic cell. In what year was Dolly born? 18 The 1988 action thriller Die Hard was filmed and set in which city in the United States? 19 In which decade did the first gold rush in Australia occur: the 1840s, 1850s or 1860s? 20 In terms of digital images and compressed image data, what does JPEG stand for? SOLUTIONS ON PAGE 102
Find the solutions on page 102.
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What did the aardvark order on his pizza? Ant-chovies.
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He couldn’t put the pieces together. How quiet is a bowling alley? So quiet that you can hear a pin drop. Cricket.
6 SO URCE: FU NKIDS JOKES.C O M
By saying ”thanks a bunch!”. Nothing. It just waved. What do you call a wolf that uses bad language?
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What sport do insects love to watch?
What did the ocean say to the swimmer?
A Z AL E A C AR N AT IO N DAFF O DIL DA HL I A DA ISY F O R G E T-ME-N OT FREESI A G AR DENI A G ERBER A JO N Q UIL L IL AC M AG N OL I A O R C HID PA NSY PE T U NI A PR OT E A R O SE SN AP DR AG O N SWEE T PE A T UL IP V IOL E T
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Why couldn’t the detective solve the LEGO crime?
How do you show bananas your gratitude?
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There are 21 flowers hidden in the grid. Search up, down, forwards, backwards and diagonally for the words. Can you find them all?
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A swearwolf.
P U ZZLES
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Can you spot the EIGHT DIFFERENCES between these two images? Circle what’s changed on the image below.
1 PIXAR Test your knowledge with these super fun, totally awesome trivia questions.
1 Which movie series features the characters Sulley and Mike? 2 The superhero, Mr Incredible, is married to which other superhero? 3 Joy, Sadness and Fear are characters in which movie?
2 WHALES 1 Killer whales are also known by what other name? 2 What name is given to a group of whales? 3 True or false: the heart of a blue whale is as big as a small car.
3 TECHNOLOGY 1 Solar power uses what source to make electricity? 2 In terms of computing, what does CTR stand for? 3 Firefox, Chrome and Safari are types of what? 4 What operating system does a Samsung phone use?
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Fate, Feat, Felt, Feta, Flat, Fret, Late, Left, Raft, Rata, Rate, Tale, Tall, Tare, Teal, Tear, Tell, Tawa, Waft, Wart, Weft, Welt, After, Alate, Alert, Altar, Alter, Artel, Fatal, Fatwa, Fetal, Later, Ratal, Ratel, Talar, Tawer, Trawl, Water, Falter, Taller, Wafter, Wallet, Lateral, Flatware. 9-letter word: WATERFALL
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1 China, India, Kenya and Sri Lanka
2 Kindle 3 Little Women 4 A farrier 5 AB-negative 6 37 7 Australia and Greece 8 New South Wales 9 1024 10 Josh Gad 11 Air pressure
As You Like It Gascoyne River 36 Cricket and football (soccer)
16 Frontal, parietal, temporal and occipital
17 1996 18 Los Angeles 19 1850s 20 Joint Photographic
1 The sign on the wall (top left) is missing. 2 Ferdinand’s eye colour is different. 3 The teapot (bottom centre) has a pattern on it. 4 The stars on the blue plate (bottom centre) are missing.
Experts Group
5 There is an extra hanging lamp (top left). 6 The green vase (bottom centre) is a different colour.
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7 The teapot above the door is missing. 8 The blue teapot on top of the lamp (top left) is a different colour.
Pixar
Whales
Technology
1 Monsters, Inc
1 Orcas
1 The sun
2 Elastigirl
2 A pod
2 Click-through rate
3 Inside Out
3 True
3 Web browsers 4 Android
jerstartad193381125 2019-12-04T11:37:53+11:00
10 4
T HE IN SIDER
HIGHER. BIGGER. FASTER. LONGER. EACH ISSUE WE FOCUS ON A PL ACE PU NCHING ABOVE ITS WEIG H T
> Remarkable is one way to describe Queensland’s Daintree Rainforest. At 180 million years old, it is the most ancient tropical rainforest in the world, tens of millions of years older than the Amazon. It is also the largest rainforest in Australia, stretching 450 kilometres from Mossman, an hour’s drive north of Cairns, to Cooktown. Resembling a real-life Jurassic Park, this untouched wilderness is like stepping back in time – you expect a dinosaur to dart out from the trees at any moment. Home to 12 of the world’s 19 primitive plant species including mosses, ferns and cycads, the Daintree hums with life as plants and animals thrive in the dense rainforest. You will find 430 species of birds flitting in and out of the canopy and exploring the lush undergrowth, including its most famous resident, the cassowary. Meanwhile, the rainforest is home to 35 per cent of Australia’s mammal species, including spotted-tailed quolls, and 12,000 species of insects, including the Ulysses butterfly with its stunning electric-blue wings. Visitors can hike trails and wooden boardwalks through the greenery, dip into swimming holes or learn about bush tucker from the Kuku Yalanji people, who have lived in the region for more than 50,000 years. The Daintree is nature at its most diverse – and magnificent.
W O R D S _ K A I T LY N PA L M E R-A L L E N
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GOING ON A HOLIDAY?
We do Passport photos for the whole family! QLD Pacific Fair Store (near Zara) Brisbane City 150 Adelaide St Maroochydore 50 Plaza Parade
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Sydney City 317 Pitt St
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shopping
IN-STORE
VIC Melbourne City 235 Elizabeth St Camberwell 843 Burke Rd Chadstone Shopping Centre Doncaster Shopping Centre Fountain Gate Shopping Centre
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All offers end 30th April 2020 or until sold out or otherwise stated. Not all stocks available all stores. Every effort is made to avoid errors in this publication, but Ted’s does not warrant the accuracy of the content of this publication and may correct any errors and may refuse to sell any product or service. Any Liability of Ted’s in respect of any part of this publication is negated to the extent permitted by law. And if liable Ted’s obligation is limited to resupply of the goods or services, or repair, or payment for customers doing so, as Ted’s chooses. Bonus products included at Ted’s normal price only.
Greensborough Shopping Centre Highpoint Shopping Centre Knox City Shopping Centre Southland Shopping Centre
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W I N E R I E S | F O O D | A D V E N T U R E | B E A C H E S | N AT U R E | W I L D L I F E
Margaret River Region 3 0 U N F O R G E T TA B L E E X P E R I E N C E S I N T H E S O U T H W E S T
A N A U S T R A L I A’ S S O U T H W E S T A N D TO U R I S M W E S T E R N A U S T R A L I A P R O M OT I O N
The last of the last. Western Australia’s world-renowned Argyle Mine will soon close. Now’s the time to secure the rarest of the rare, an Argyle pink diamond, for yourself.
THE COLOURED DIAMOND SPECIALISTS
Founded in Kununurra in 1966, Nina’s Jewellery are the original Argyle diamond jeweller. With a team of GIA certified Diamond and Design Specialists and on-site Master Jewellers, you can trust Nina’s for the last word on Argyle pink diamonds. Visit them online or in-store today. DUNSBOROUGH KUNUNURRA
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@ninas_co CE R T I F I E D S P E CI AL I ST
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W W W. N I N A S . C O
CONTENT S
Harvey Bunbury
W I N E R I E S ...................................... 02 F O O D ................................................ 05 A DV E N T U R E ...............................06
Dunsborough
Donnybrook Capel Busselton Balingup Boyup Brook
Margaret River
Nannup
Bridgetown
Augusta Pemberton
Walpole
Brought to you by
WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Manjimup
B E AC H E S .........................................12 N AT U R E ............................................ 14
Collie Ferguson Valley
Denmark
Albany
Welcome More than celebrated wine country, the Margaret River Region and beyond in the South West is a playground of pristine beaches, nature, incredible adventures, gourmet experiences, and, of course, world-class cellar doors. Now that Jetstar flies direct to this world-famous slice of Australia, truly getting away from it all has never been easier. margaretriver.com/melbstomargs
01-08
WINERIES 01
Vasse Felix Dr Tom Cullity planted the first vines in Margaret River in 1967. Just six years later, the winery won gold at the Perth Royal Show, which set the bar high for the new wine region. The winery boasts awardwinning wines, one of the most acclaimed restaurants in the state and tours for the curious and the passionate. And their maiden vines? They still stand near the cellar door. vassefelix.com.au
02 Cullen Wines This esteemed winery scored a spot in the region’s history books when Dr Kevin and Di Cullen planted their first vines in 1971. Now, Cullen Wines is carbon positive, and daughter Vanya Cullen won Winemaker of the Year at the 2020 Halliday Wine Campanion Awards. Stroll through the gardens for a self-guided Spiral Garden Biodynamic Tour. cullenwines.com.au
03
Clairault Streicker
From a four-hectare estate in 1976 to 200 hectares of vines spread around the region today, this superior winery duo gets better with age. Linger over wine tastings and nibbles while gazing across the vines at the beautiful Caves Road cellar door. Romantics will love the picnic option, which allows entrance into the vineyard. Take your wicker basket and unwind in a secluded spot over a prepared lunch complete with a blanket and bottle of Clairault or Streicker wine. clairaultstreickerwines.com.au
“STAY T HE NIG H T IN O NE OF T HE C H ALE TS OR IN T HE ELE VATED SPA APART MEN T W I T H V IE WS OF T HE L AKE.”
04
Bettenay’s
The Bettenay family are well known for their outstanding chardonnay and shiraz but their cellar door is not just about wine. When the family expanded their premises in 2012, they included a kitchen to make their locally famous nougat. A cellar door that offers wine and nougat tastings overlooking lush paddocks and vineyards? Divine. If you can’t bear to leave, stay the night in one of the chalets or in the elevated spa apartment with views of their lake. bettenaysmargaretriver.com.au
M A R G A RE T R I V ER & BE YO N D
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Singlefile Wines
05
Come for the wine, stay for the wine and chocolate matching (yes, it is different but amazing). The cellar door at this winery in Denmark’s Scotsdale Valley has a tasting room that will let you sip your way through fine drops from the Great Southern – do not miss the 2015 The Vivienne Chardonay, winner of Australia’s best Chardonnay in the 2019 James Halliday Wine Companion Awards. singlefilewines.com
Brown Hill Estate
07
You will find a laid-back and authentic wine experience at this winery in Rosa Brook, 12 kilometres east of the Margaret River township. This cellar door is not fancy – it is housed in a huge, man-cave-like shed and you can taste wines straight from the barrel. Join winemaker Haydn Millard on a tour of the estate where you will learn all about viticulture and winemaking. brownhillestate.com.au
Wills Domain It is easy to be impressed by the vastness of this 60-hectare winery. Lose yourself in the vinecovered views of the Gunyulgup Valley as you sip a glass of Cuvée d’Élevage sparkling rosé. Go ahead and dawdle here – perhaps over lunch. Chef Seth James has taken the restaurant to great heights, claiming Regional Restaurant of the Year by the West Australian Good Food Guide four times. willsdomain.com.au
> D O N’T M I S S ... T H E C I D E R Y I N B R I D G E T O W N F O R C I D E R, LIMEBURNERS IN ALBANY FOR W HISK Y AND HARRIS RIVER E S TAT E I N C O L L I E F O R T H E F O R A G E R G I N.
08
Amelia Park
Established in 2009, this award-winning winery is adored not only for its complex cabernet merlot and chardonnay but also for its sublime entrance to the cellar door. Pull open the grand wooden doors to reveal a softly lit barrel-lined passage. As you near the exit, another set of doors part to invite you to free wine tastings. A jaw-dropping vineyard view through the picture window behind the counter takes the experience up a notch or two. Enjoy the wine, and views, daily from 10am to 5pm. ameliaparkwines.com.au
HIA WA Professional Builder of the Year 9 years running.
M A R G A RE T R I V ER & BE YO N D
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09-13
FOOD 09 Bunbury Farmers Market Possibly the best part of a wander here are the free tastings, which make it impossible to leave without an overflowing basket. Also farmfresh irresistable in the South West are Cambray Cheese in Nannup, apple picking in Donnybrook and roadside fruit stalls in Pemberton. bunburyfarmersmarket. com.au
10 Koomal Dreaming To get an authentic sense of place, combine history, hiking, exploration and native bush tucker on a guided tour with Josh “Koomal” Whiteland. As caretaker of this land, home to the Wadandi people, Josh shares his personal knowledge of local bushland and edible plants. The threehour tour ends with a campfire lunch of seasonal meats, plants and herbs. koomaldreaming.com.au
11 Yarri When chef Aaron Carr left Vasse Felix after 21 years to open his own restaurant in Dunsborough, he took regional dining to the next level. Dedicated to showcasing local ingredients, his menu changes with the Noongar people’s observed six seasons. Expect freshwater crayfish such as marron, organic beef from the Blackwood Valley, locally grown vegies and native herbs. yarri.com.au
12
Miki’s Open Kitchen
This is more than a pleasure for your tastebuds – it is an all-senses showdown. Often described as art, Miki’s ultra-modern Japanese fare is created with the finest local ingredients and plated to perfection in his open kitchen, allowing you to watch, wonder and interact. There are four dégustation menus to choose from, including one for kids, starting from $60 (kids $45). Each course is small but mighty and can be paired with sake. Reservations are essential as this diner can book out weeks in advance. mikisopenkitchen.com.au
> D O N’T M I S S ... T H E W E S T E R N A U S T R A L I A G O U R M E T E S C A P E I N N O V E M B E R – A N E X T R A O R D I N A R Y F E S T I VA L O F F O O D A N D W I N E I N T H E M A R G A R E T R I V E R R E G I O N.
13
Black Truffle Hunt
Manjimup, a town 120 kilometres south-east of Busselton, produces almost 90 per cent of Australia’s truffles, so it is only fitting there is a celebration here every June. As part of the aptly named Truffle Kerfuffle, you can go on a truffle hunt with local experts. Be prepared to get down and dirty as you learn how and where to locate the best black truffles in the region with the help of some very talented (and cute) sniffer dogs. trufflekerfuffle.com.au
6
M A R G A RE T R I V ER & BE YO N D
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ADVENTURE
15
Kayak Blackwood River Stretching 300 kilometres from Arthur River to Augusta, the Blackwood is the longest river in WA’s South West and is made for paddling. Set within a national park and winding through the charming town of Nannup, its basin is fringed with jarrah trees and about 8000 species of flora. Surf N Dirt Adventure Tours offers itineraries that combine kayaking and a gourmet Margaret River winery experience. surfndirtadventuretours.com.au
16
Underground caving at Ngilgi There are more than 100 limestone caves in the Margaret River Region, which were formed one million years ago. Ngilgi Cave, near Yallingup, holds particular significance as WA’s first tourist attraction. Guides offer the rare opportunity to handle cave crystals and share stories about the early exploration of the cave by candlelight. Extending 37 metres below ground, the cave has 350 steps for exploring its decorated chambers. margaretrivercaves.com
14
Scale a giant karri tree
Iconic for their smooth, pale bark, karri eucalypts are among the tallest trees in the world and native to the south-west of Western Australia. During the 1930s and ’40s, a small network of karris were used as fire lookouts. At 61 metres, the Gloucester Tree in Gloucester National Park, in Pemberton, is estimated to be more than 250 years old and scaling the 153 spikes to the 53-metre-high platform reveals vistas usually only birds can sing about. parks.dpaw.wa.gov.au
H A PP S UP THE HILL
A wine for every palate JUST 10 MINUTES FROM DUNSBOROUGH, YOU ’LL FIND 40 WINES ON TAS TING | HAPPS HAMPERS FOR REL A XING PICNICS EX TENSIVE GARDENS | AR T AND POT TERY GALLERY | THE PERFEC T ESCAPE 575 COMMONAGE ROAD, WA , 6281 . TEL 08 9755 3300
M A R G A RE T R I V ER & BE YO N D
A DV EN T URE
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17
Castle Rock Granite Skywalk Formed over 1100 million years ago, the Porongurup Range stretches 12 kilometres, with the tallest peak reaching 670 metres. Towering over the trees of Porongurup National Park is an outcrop of massive granite domes known as Castle Rock. To get to the suspended metal walkways wrapping around the uppermost reaches, you will need to take the two-hour hike through rare flora. Pinch-me panoramas await those brave enough to scramble over rocks and climb the six-metre ladder to the summit. westernaustralia.com
18
Fishing with Cape Cultural Tours
Foraging may have only just hit the mainstream but Australia’s Indigenous people have been doing it for thousands of years. Join a Wadandi cultural custodian on this djiljit (fish) coastal fishing experience in Meelup Regional Park, famed for its clear turquoise waters and schools of salmon, herring and bream. Before you tuck into your freshly caught barbecue lunch, a guide will show you how to prepare your djiljit and forage your salad from the bush. capeculturaltours.com.au
“PIN C H-ME PA N OR A M AS AWA I T T H O SE BR AVE EN O U G H TO SCR A MBLE OVER R O CKS A N D CL IMB T HE SIX-ME TRE L A D DER TO T HE SU M MI T.”
19
Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk
It is one thing to walk among giants but to breathe the same air as them is another. Located in the WalpoleNornalup National Park, in the area known as the Valley of the Giants, this treetop walk hovers some 40 metres up, in the dense canopy of an ancient forest. Found only in this part of Australia, giant tingle trees can live up to 400 years and this dizzying 600-metre stroll emphasises why nature is food for the soul. valleyofthegiants.com.au
M A R G A R E T
R I V E R
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R E S TA U R A N T & P I Z Z A B A R
11
A DV EN T URE
M A R G A RE T R I V ER & BE YO N D
20
Jenny Hewett
Cape to Cape Track walk “Look, there they are,” says Anne Collell, our walking guide from tour company Walk into Luxury. A series of fins pierce the wave’s crest. Gathering speed, a pod of dolphins propel themselves through the wave like warheads, milking every last inch out of its momentum before sinking under the surface. I have been walking along a sandy track, part of the long-distance Cape to Cape Track in the Margaret River Region, for three hours. And as I pause to observe the swell of the Indian Ocean build to a crescendo towards the headland, punctuated by the occasional dolphin, I realise, here, the news of epic surf travels fast among locals – even those who live in the ocean’s depths. It is a hive of activity here – matching white utes are lined up on the headland. Tradies are urgently fumbling with their wetsuits. A jetski is dragging surfers into sets... This is one of the Southern Hemisphere’s most legendary surf spots. And walking along its precipice with experienced tour operator Walk into Luxury (walkintoluxury.com.au), taking in the ebbs and flows of the ocean below, is the next best thing to getting into that crisp, blue water yourself.
Stretching from Cape Naturaliste to Cape Leeuwin in Margaret River, the 135-kilometre trail weaves in and out of coastal ridges carpeted in seasonal wildflowers, with white, sandy beaches and karri forests. Replete with native flora and fauna, including orchids and wallabies, the trail is a meditation on our landscape and a naturalist’s dream. From watching the roaring surf to visiting secret limestone caves, walking in, through and around nature restores and revitalises – exactly what a holiday should do. margaretriver.com
BE ACHES
21-26
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Greens Pool
Busselton Foreshore
Hamelin Bay
This little cove, 18 kilometres from Denmark in William Bay National Park, is so calm, local swim schools use its gentle waters for lessons in summertime. Scattered offshore are collections of boulders that act as a wind barrier, which means you are less likely to get sandblasted when a sea breeze kicks up. Explore the coastline by walking to beautiful Elephant Rocks beach less than a kilometre away. australiassouthwest.com
Four blocks from the centre of town is the city’s main beach and its prized possession: the Busselton Jetty. The 1.84-kilometre landmark is the longest timber-piled jetty in the Southern Hemisphere and home to the Underwater Observatory. Tours of the natural aquarium begin with an electric train ride out to sea. Delve eight metres under the wharf to discover a colourful display of marine life among the timber pylons. busseltonjetty.com.au
From rashie-clad families to huge stingrays as big as two metres wide weaving and darting in knee-deep crystal waters, Hamelin Bay beach plays host to swimmers of all sorts. The large bay of pristine ocean and a shipwreck trail of 11 sunken vessels is 17 kilometres north of Augusta, the southernmost town in the Margaret River Region. It is also on the Cape to Cape Track and a popular family camping area. margaretriver.com
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Meelup Beach
Gnarabup Beach
Bremer Bay
This beloved family beach is just five kilometres from the seaside town of Dunsborough. Hire a kayak or stand-up paddleboard from Meelup Beach Hire (owned by local legend and longboard champion Justin Redman). Better yet, take a guided kayak tour through Meelup Regional Park. The beach sits within the coastal park, so if hiking and biking thrill you to bits, this could be your heaven on earth. meelupbeachhire.com
Hugging the coastline a scenic 10 kilometres from the inland town of Margaret River is Prevelly and its much-loved Gnarabup Beach, where you will find aquamarine waters, a boat-access ramp and the cliff-side White Elephant Beach CafĂŠ. Be sure to check out Surfers Point, home to the annual Margaret River Pro surfing competition. It is a 25-minute walk along the path behind the sand dunes or a five-minute drive north. whiteelephantcafe.com.au
Each year, from January through to early April, the largest known pod of orcas in the Southern Hemisphere gather in the Bremer Canyon. Join a daily research exhibition to see these incredible marine creatures in their natural habitat as they hunt, sleep, swim and play. Charter boats depart from Bremer Bay, with options to join a bus from Albany to Bremer Bay as part of a tour with Whales Australia. whales-australia.com.au
M A R G A RE T R I V ER & BE YO N D
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NATURE 27
Whale watching at Augusta About 35,000 whales join the 5000-kilometre migration from Antarctica up the coast of Western Australia between June and August, and Flinders Bay hosts interactions between southern right and humpback whales. Join a whale watching tour from Augusta to see the gentle creatures breaching, lobtailing and tail slapping. whalewatchwesternaustralia.com
28 Injidup Natural Spa Half the fun of this natural ocean spa near the town of Yallingup is the scramble to get there. The effervescent rock pool is hidden down a series of granite outcrops on the water’s edge. When the waves crash on the rocks, foam and bubbles overflow into the crystal-clear shallows creating a spa-like fizz that is brisk even in summer. All you need now is champagne. westernaustralia.com
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Sunset at Sugarloaf Rock
The conical natural rock formation about three kilometres south of Cape Naturaliste is a dramatic interruption to the region’s iconic coastline – and it is also a nesting site for seabirds, including the redtailed tropicbird. Emerging from frothing seas under an iridescent sky, the granite island is like an ephemeral art display at sunset, best pondered from the elevated viewing platform within the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park. margaretriver.com
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Dolphin Discovery Centre
Koombana Bay in the coastal town of Bunbury has become somewhat of a dolphin sanctuary, with about 50 resident wild bottlenose dolphins and another 100 or more cruising by throughout the year. The recently upgraded centre offers educational and interactive exhibits as well as ethical tours, including eco cruises and seasonal swims, during which dolphins have been known to initiate play with humans. dolphindiscovery.com.au
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