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W AL K I N G T H R O U G H L AVA T U BES I N Q U EE N SL A N D
MAGAZINE
F I N D YO U R PERFEC T K O H S A M U I G E TA W AY C UL I N A RY C O OL: W H ERE T O E AT I N H O B A R T
natural high →
The wellness holidays that will change your mind, body and soul
FEB 2020
BRISBANE
KYOTO
BALI
GOLD COAST
B Y R O N B AY
FIJI
NEWCASTLE
Mā kā karu hōmiromiro ka kitea te rerehua o te whenua. Sometimes you can only see the beauty of the land through the eyes of someone who loves the land.
WELCOME TO AOTEAROA (NEW ZEALAND) AUCKLAND
We are all born explorers, some more intrepid than others.
1.5HRS
Whatever you are looking for, you will find it here - in the land of the long white cloud.
TAURANGA
HAMILTON
1.5HRS 1HR
ROTORUA 2HRS
At Ngāi Tahu Tourism we’re proud to connect millions of visitors to our people, our place and our culture.
1HR
TAUPO
Call in and visit us on your way around Te Ika a Māui (North Island) or Te Wai Pounamu (South Island) and immerse yourself in an authentic New Zealand experience.
4.5HRS
Nau mai, haere mai (welcome); we look forward to hosting you.
PICTON
WELLINGTON 3.5HRS
5HRS 5HRS
FRANZ JOSEF
CHRISTCHURCH 3HRS
5HRS
TEKAPO GLENORCHY
3HRS
45MINS
QUEENSTOWN
Drive times approximate.
Agrodome / Dark Sky Project / Dart River Adventures Franz Josef Glacier Guides / Franz Josef Glacier Hot Pools Glacier Southern Lakes Helicopters Guided Walks New Zealand / Hollyford Track Hukafalls Jet / NZ Snowshoe / Queenstown Snowmobiles Rainbow Springs / Shotover Jet
TE IKA A MAUI (NORTH ISLAND)
EXPERIENCE LIFE ON THE FARM
DISCOVER NATURE’S BEST
FEEL THE ROAR OF A MIGHTY WATERFALL
Located on a 350-acre real working farm with spectacular panoramic views, Agrodome is proudly the largest and best farm experience in Aotearoa and a must on every visit to Rotorua.
At Rainbow Springs Nature Park, fun and wildlife combine to create the ultimate day out for everyone.
Visit Huka Falls- New Zealand’s mostvisited natural attraction featuring a dizzying 11-metre-high waterfall and more than 200,000 litres of water per second.
Get up close with their furry and feathery friends and learn all about New Zealand agriculture with their quintessentially kiwi entertaining Farm Shows and Farm Tours.
Learn about and get up close with New Zealand’s native wildlife with our guided tours, and visit the world’s best interactive kiwi experience and largest hatchery programme: The National Kiwi Hatchery Aotearoa. We’ve hatched over 1850 kiwi chicks to date.
ROTORUA | AGRODOME.CO.NZ
ROTORUA | RAINBOWSPRINGS.CO.NZ
Hukafalls Jet is the only Jet Boat permitted to its base. This exhilarating adventure takes you along a beautiful river environment, lined with native bush and sheer rock face. Hold on tight for a half hour of thrills and excitement!
TAUPO | HUKAFALLSJET.COM
TE WAIPOUNAMU (SOUTH ISLAND)
SPIN 360° THROUGH SPECTACULAR CANYONS
EXPLORE AN UNTOUCHED WORLD
SOAK IN THE RAINFOREST
Shotover Jet is the only operator permitted in the spectacular Shotover River Canyons. Marvel at epic scenery and hold on tight for exhilarating 360 degree spins and wall-to-wall canyon action from start to finish.
Dart River Adventures is the only operator in the pristine Dart River Valley, offering adventures from jet boating to kayaking and horse riding in Glenorchy, 45 minutes from Queenstown.
The awa (rivers) are part of who we are, and we are part of the awa. The only way to experience our canyons and feel their power is to come on a journey with us, the world’s most exciting jet boat ride.
Journey from Lake Whakatipu deep into Mount Aspiring National Park where myth, heritage and fantasy come to life. Here, you will explore an untouched world, inaccessible by other means.
Nestled among lush native rainforest in the heart of Franz Josef, the Glacier Hot Pools provide a truly unique setting for absolute relaxation. On offer are three main pools of varying temperature, naturally secluded outdoor private pools and a wide range of spa and massage treatments. The ideal way to revive your tīnana (body), hinengaro (mind) and wairua (spirit).
QUEENSTOWN | SHOTOVERJET.COM
GLENORCHY | DARTRIVER.CO.NZ
FRANZ JOSEF | GLACIERHOTPOOLS.CO.NZ
ADVERTISEMEN T
FEB 2020
CONTENTS
the traveller W HERE T O G O N E X T
the checklist ALL T HE T R AVEL IN T EL YO U NEED N O W
016
P O S T C A R D F R O M ...
018
T W O S I D E S O F...
Burleigh Heads, Queensland. Kyoto, Japan.
020
THE CHALLENGE
022
H AC K: H O W T O TR AVEL L IG H TER
Hawaii is known for its glorious seashores. So how do you go about finding the best beach in the island destination?
042 YO G A RE T RE AT S The best places in Oz and Asia where you can salute the sun.
A fashion expert shares her tips for packing for comfort and style on the move – without the kilos.
024
7 M Y T H S A B O U T... Newcastle, NSW.
027
SMARTER WORKING
031
TECH
035
TR AVEL NE W S
038
We uncover the latest trends and hack the sharpest minds of the business world. The best in wireless earbuds and mirrorless cameras, plus the latest must-have apps. All the latest updates, info and events from around our network.
CALENDAR Fun parades, women’s cricket and Michael Bublé – what not to miss this month.
051 KOH SAMUI Thailand’s tropical idyll multitasks as the perfect holiday hotspot for families, divers and wellness seekers.
008
C O N T EN T S
062 QUEENSLAND Exploring lava tubes – ancient volcanic caves – is a unique adventure.
the cut T H E BES T OF W H ERE T O E AT, D R IN K A N D PL AY
072
E AT + D R I N K: H O B A R T The Tasmanian capital’s food scene is big on provenance, produce – and taste.
080
H A P P Y H O U R S: BRISBANE Queensland’s largest city runs the gamut of cool places to have a beer, wine or cocktail – all without breaking the bank.
084
A N AT O M Y OF A DIS H The Vietnamese staple banh mi is no ordinary sandwich.
087
EXPERIENCE Struggling to get some quality shut-eye? A sleep retreat could be the holiday you need.
090
M Y H A P P Y P L A C E: HAWAII I’m a Celebrity... Get Me Out of Here! host Julia Morris spills on why she loves the popular US holiday destination.
092
STREET STYLE Learn the secret of casual chic from those who live in the eclectic Sydney suburb of Newtown.
the insider JE T S TA R N E W S, M AP S A N D EN T ER TA IN MEN T
096 099 104 106 112
JE T S TA R N E W S EN T ER TA IN M EN T W H E R E W E FLY GAMES + PUZZLES H I G H E R, B I G G E R, FA S T E R, L O N G E R
068 FIJI Explore the fascinating sights, culture and lifestyle of this Pacific paradise.
Cover photography by Quin Schrock
E DITOR I A L .
EDITORIAL INQUIRIES
EDITOR Jacqueline Lunn
SENIOR EDITORIAL COORDINATOR
DEPUTY EDITOR Sudeshna Ghosh
Anneliese Beard
CONTRIBUTORS.
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jon Gregory DESIGNER Lisa Emmanuel CHIEF SUB EDITOR Nick Hadley SUB EDITOR Deborah Grunfeld PHOTOGRAPHIC EDITOR Nicola Sevitt
Suite 58, 26-32 Pirrama Road, Pyrmont, NSW 2009 P (02) 8114 8944 E jetstar.editorial@mediumrarecontent.com
ACCOUNT MANAGER, TRAVEL
Samantha O’Brien
MANAGING EDITOR, JETSTAR Simon Tsang
A DVERT I S I N G . HEAD OF SALES, TRAVEL AND LUXURY
VIC & QLD ADVERTISING DIRECTOR
Tony Trovato | (02) 8114 8920
Chris Joy | (03) 9292 3207
NATIONAL ADVERTISING MANAGER
VIC GROUP SALES MANAGER
Sarah Harding | (02) 8114 8936
Belinda Morton | (03) 9292 1159
DIGITAL SALES DIRECTOR
VIC ACCOUNT MANAGER
Mike Hanna | (02) 8114 7626
Brittany Groth | (03) 9292 3180
NSW SALES MANAGER
VIC ACCOUNT MANAGER
Tim Partridge | (02) 8114 6101
Tim Beecroft | (03) 9292 2321
NSW ACCOUNT MANAGER
NEW ZEALAND BUSINESS
Anthony Sullivan | (02) 8114 8954
DEVELOPMENT MANAGER
WA & SA STATE MANAGER
Stuart Tovey | +64 21 711 606
MATT SHEA Matt is a Brisbane-based journalist, editor and food critic with 12 years experience producing work for the likes of Broadsheet and Qantas, among many others. This month he shines a light on Brisbane’s best happy hours (p. 80).
Gloria Karageorge | 0424 034 430 ADVERTISING INQUIRIES ADVERTISING SALES COORDINATOR Madeline Payne P (02) 8114 8936 E jetstar.advertising@mediumrarecontent.com
M EDIUM R A R E C O N T E N T A G E N C Y. MANAGING DIRECTOR Gerard Reynolds DIRECTOR Sally Wright CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Fiorella Di Santo HEAD OF CONTENT, TRAVEL AND LUXURY Kirsten Galliott DIGITAL DIRECTOR Karla Courtney MULTIMEDIA DIRECTOR Shannon O’Meara SOCIAL DIRECTOR Scott Drummond STRATEGY DIRECTOR Lyndsey Long FINANCE MANAGER Leslie To
Jetstar magazine is published monthly and is complimentary to domestic and international passengers. Published for Jetstar Airways by Medium Rare Content Agency (ABN 83 169 879 921), Suite 58/26-32 Pirrama Road, Pyrmont, NSW 2009. ©2019. All rights reserved. Printed by Ovato Print Pty Ltd. Paper fibre is from sustainably managed forests and controlled sources. No responsibility is accepted for unsolicited material. Articles express the opinions of the authors and not necessarily those of Jetstar Airways or Medium Rare Content Agency. For a copy of Medium Rare Content Agency’s Privacy Policy, visit mediumrarecontent.com. ISSN 1443-2013.
We want you to know that at Jetstar our writers are not armchair travellers. Any assistance we do accept from the travel industry to produce our stories does not compromise the integrity of our coverage.
For flight reservations jetstar.com For hotel bookings and holiday packages jetstar.com/hotels jetstar.com/holidays
BRENT WILSON Brent, also from Brisbane, is an illustrator whose work, filled with block colours and loose lines, stokes a nostalgia for mid-century children’s books and ad campaigns. “How to Travel Lighter” (p. 22) recalls this retro aesthetic.
PETA MURRAY A freelance travel writer for more than a decade, Peta has written for a range of publications including Escape and The West Australian. She is based in Byron Bay, but reconnects with her hometown of Newcastle in this issue (p. 24).
EXPERIENCE PARADISE ON EARTH WHATEVER THE SEASON From a romantic escape to the perfect family holiday, Millbrook Resort has a range of packages to suit everyone.
WINTER & SUMMER ESCAPE PACKAGES
GOURMET GETAWAY PACKAGE
STAY & PLAY PACKAGE
From $665
Only $1,599
From $439
Two or Three-Night Package Options
A Five-Night Gastronomical Holiday
An Overnight Golf Trip Like No Other
Includes $100 Resort Credit
Includes $150 Resort Credit + Much More
Includes Green Fees to play 18-holes
To check availability: Contact the Reservations Team or visit our website New Zealand: 0800 800 604 International: +64 (0)3 441 7000
Australia: 1800 450 626 E: reservations@millbrook.co.nz
All pricing based on two people sharing. Terms and conditions apply. Bookings are essential and subject to availability.
antlerluggage.com.au
CEO’S LE T T ER
Innovations to make your journey better > Thanks for flying with us. Few people would think about taking a holiday without packing a smartphone or tablet these days. They’re essential travel companions helping us find our way around a new city, track down the top attractions and capture all the highlights. And they’re handy when researching and booking a holiday too. We are always looking out for, and taking advantage of, new technology and innovation to improve your travel experience with us. And this year we are looking forward to sharing with you some new technology for your mobile devices to make your travel with us even smoother and more fun. For those who love to catch up on the latest TV shows and movies, soon we will be introducing digital streaming to our Airbus fleet.
DIGI TAL STREAMING IS C O MING SO O N TO JE TSTAR
“FOR THOSE WHO LOVE TO CATCH UP ON THE LATEST TV SHOWS AND MOVIES, SOON WE WILL BE INTRODUCING DIGITAL STREAMING.” This will be the first time we have offered entertainment on our domestic flights. It means you will be able to stream hours of Jetstar’s inflight content, including movies and TV shows, on your own phone or tablet and play games and read magazines. We are also giving our popular Jetstar App a makeover. Soon, you will be able to create new bookings, view and update your existing booking and easily save your boarding pass. And we are working on some great new features like real-time push notifications if your itinerary changes and alerts on best fares available for flights you have been researching. We’ll let you know when these great new services become available and look forward to seeing you on board again soon. G ARE T H E VA N S CEO, JE T S TA R G R O U P
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the checklist > ALL THE TRAVEL INTEL YOU NEED NOW
NEWCASTLE PAG E
0 24
Chris Beetham
G OL D C OAST
PA G E
016
> In 2002, local surfer Damon Harvey rode a record 1.5km wave from Snapper Rocks point to Kirra Beach.
K YOTO
PA G E
018
> The Tale of Genji, thought to be the oldest novel in the world, originated in Kyoto in the 11th century.
H AWA II
PA G E
020
> Hawaii’s state fish is the Humuhumunukunukuāpuaʻa, which means “trigger fish with a snout like a pig”.
P O S TC ARD FR O M
Burleigh Heads GOLD COAST
—This once sleepy surf village is having its moment as the Goldie’s epicentre of tasty eats, cool bars and chic boutiques. Craig Tansley catches a wave into this happening neighbourhood—
ILL U S T R AT IO N _ G ER G Ő GIL IC ZE
1 RESTAURANT LABART One of Sydney’s most innovative chefs, Alex Munoz Labart (exMonopole) packed his bags and moved north to open this Parisianstyle establishment. It doesn’t need a water view – the signature dish barbecue king prawns with garlic prawn butter and capers is enough to draw people in. restaurantlabart.com 2 THREEWORLDS So much more than a music shop, inside you’ll find hoops, juggling clubs and the occasional unicycle as well as drums, guitars and ukuleles. Also hosting beginner African drumming and ukulele classes, this store aims to inspire fun in all ages and connect the community. threeworlds.com.au
T H E C H ECKL IS T
3 EMTE BOUTIQUE Just because you’re in a surf town doesn’t mean you have to wear Billabong. James Street has become a mini fashion hub, largely thanks to local girl Emma Stevenson who has revolutionised the way Gold Coasters think about dressing. Find the best local jewellery and accessories here. emteboutique.com 4 SEAN SCOTT BOUTIQUE Sean was an electrician, until he realised the spark missing in his life; now he is one of the country’s pre-eminent landscape photographers. He started by selling his own water photography shots at markets, now his gallery has everything from canvas prints to abstract multimedia artwork and streetwear for sale. seanscottphotography.com.au
5 LOCKWOOD Who says the Gold Coast only has surf clubs? Showing just how far the beach city has come, this hidden bar requires a text message for access (how very Melbourne). Enter via a red door and velvet curtain into a 1920s Prohibition-style speakeasy with more than 70 whiskies above the bar. (And of course there’s no website.) 0488 111 030 6 IKU YAKITORI BAR There’s no front entrance – head to the Justin Lane back alley and open an old recycled wooden door, then step on in to this mini Tokyo. You’ll find surfers sitting around a dimly lit whisky bar and Japanese chefs standing behind glass cooking food over smoking binchotan charcoals. Is it moody? You be the judge. ikuyakitoribar.com.au
017
7 RICK SHORES It has been voted Queensland’s number one restaurant but it’s actually not the food that’s the most remarkable thing here. You would be hard-pressed to find an eatery in Australia built closer to the surf. With the jewel-like green and blue sea as your backdrop, enjoy a meal of pan-Asian flavours from fresh, locally sourced produce. Be sure to sample the signature fried bug rolls. rickshores.com.au 8 BURLEIGH PAVILION Where the beautiful people go – the Gold Coast hotspot sits right out over the waves of Burleigh’s famous break. There’s room for 600 people and the terrace features four-metrehigh ceilings, festoon lighting and views north past the lights of Surfers. burleighpavilion.com
S N APS H O T @KO HK I
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove The sound of the soaring, swaying stalks of bamboo in this forest has been named one of the “100 Soundscapes of Japan” by the Japanese Ministry of the Environment.
Two sides
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of Kyoto
019
Senbon Torii This eight-kilometre hiking trail, which translates to “thousands of torii gates�, is at the back of the Fushimi Inari Shrine in southern Kyoto and leads to the peak of Mount Inari.
T HE C H ALLEN GE
Finding the best beach in Hawaii —What makes a beach amazing? The sweetest sand? The best waves? Or the most pictureperfect views? Bill Fink paddles through the Aloha State to find the perfect seaside spot— OAH U
Hanakapiai Beach
K AUAI
> On a quest for something more private, I hike miles of Kaua’i’s cliffside Kalalau Trail to reach Hanakapiai Beach. The small rock-covered cove, hidden between mountain passes, has a secluded end-of-the-earth feel to it, with rock cairns piled along the shore. Surrounding it are amazing, fluted green cliffs! A nearby waterfall! No masses of tourists! Oh, and a few signs: “High Surf”, “Strong Current”, “Dangerous Shorebreak”. And a hand-carved notice: “Warning! Do not go near the water!” OK then, back to the drawing board. It was pretty, though.
Hulopo’e Bay Beach
L ANAI
> Want to know what it’s like lounging around like galactically wealthy Oracle founder Larry Ellison? He owns the cove, the Four Seasons Hotel next door, and about 98 per cent of the entire island of Lanai – everything except the beach itself, which, like all in Hawaii, must allow public access. The waters are calm, the crescent of sands fluffy and white, the shore nearly empty. It’s pretty much perfect, but it can get a bit lonely on remote Lanai so be sure to bring a friend or two.
Ehukai Beach Park
H A N AU M A BAY BEAC H
Waikiki Beach
> This is the iconic Hawaiian beach I’ve heard about all my life – highrise hotels with the famed Diamond Head crater behind them, gentle surf, and a dozen neon-lit bars serving cocktails nearby. I scan for Elvis, he must be here, playing his ukulele from Blue Hawaii, right? Old dudes on longboards hang ten and families and honeymooners picnic on beach towels like they have for decades. Waikiki is overbuilt, over-touristed and totally clichéd but still utterly beautiful in its own way.
OAH U
> Better known as the home of the famed Banzai Pipeline, one of the top surf spots on the planet, this beach sees some of the best surfers in the world riding the perfect barrel waves on the north shore of Oahu. If you’re a surfer, this beach gets full marks. But if you’re not an experienced surfie, stay out of the water in the winter months (mid-November through March), as the sometime eight metre-high waves crashing into shallow reefs are literally deadly.
WAIK IK I BEAC H
T H E C H ECKL IS T
Wai’anapanapa State Park Beach
MAUI
Papohaku Beach
M OLOK AI
021
P OIP U BEAC H
> There are plenty of white-sand beaches around. For a genuine Hawaiian experience, I visit the black sands, lava rock caves and shrimpinfused red tide pools of Maui’s Wai’anapanapa. Being there felt like I’d gone back thousands of years in time, to when the island was formed. But while black sand looks cool, in the sun it becomes foot-cooking hot. And I found myself shouting “Ow! Ow!” while walking on what Hawaiians call the “a’a’” lava rock.
Hanauma Bay Beach
OAH U
> I feel like I’m floating in an aquarium as hundreds of multicoloured fish swim around me as if I’m part of the reef. And I’m only about 20 metres away from what might be the world’s best beach for snorkelling. The smooth, protected waters of the bay and the soft sands make it perfect for families. Yes, it can get crowded with people but the combination of remarkable sea life, calm waters and nice white sands make the spot as tasty as fresh sushi.
> The white sands stretch for miles, the waves lap gently on shore and I don’t see a single person. The beaches on the sleepy island of Molokai, a 90-minute ferry ride from Maui, are an antidote to Hawaii’s more built-up shores. With only a handful of small hotels and restaurants, and a trickle of visitors, I feel like I’m on a deserted tropical island retreat. It’s ideal if you’d like your own private slice of paradise. Many secluded beaches, but after dark, gets pretty lonely.
Poipu Beach H A N AK APIAI BEAC H
K AUAI
> On the southern edge of Kauai, there’s a beach that’s neither too remote nor too crowded. Its white sands are soft and welcoming and, amazingly, the ocean waters are wavy and calm at the same time. A natural peninsula has created a protected cove for about half the beach, which means I can surf and snorkel at the same place. An adjacent public park provides respite from the sun, and across the street, local diners offer cheap eats for lunch. Like Goldilocks, I’ve finally found something that’s juuuuuust right.
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# 2 WR AP IT UP
“A large cotton scarf is so versatile. You can use it as a wrap, a sarong, as a modesty cover for visiting religious buildings,” says Donna. “It’s also good as a sun cover or even a towel if you get stuck.” If you’re only a week into your trip and you already hate what you’ve packed, a scarf is a lifesaver. “A scarf also adds a bit of interest to your outfits if you find they’re on repeat for too long,” adds Donna.
# 3 W ORK IT
So your idea of a relaxing holiday includes working out? That doesn’t mean you need a ton of extra pieces. “Make sure any gym clothes are versatile enough to wear on other occasions too. Fine cotton leggings hardly weigh anything, they roll up small and work for every day and exercise,” Donna says. Consider a tank you can wear with a skirt, shorts or jeans. But if you must have something separate for the gym, opt for light-weight fabrics that are quick-dry too.
# 4 L IG H TEN T HE LOAD
How to travel lighter —Minimalist travellers get everywhere faster. We ask style expert Donna Cameron for her top tips on packing light and staying chic when on the move—
# 1 TAKE A CAPS ULE
The key to a good capsule wardrobe is to make sure each piece works in multiple outfits. A pair of wide-legged, high-waisted jeans? Yes. A printed dress that goes with nothing else? No. Also pack twice as many tops as bottoms. “Tops require more washing and are more visible, so you’ll get tired of them more quickly,” Donna Cameron, from ethical fashion tour company, Fashion by Foot, says. “And pack to a colour palette. Choose three neutrals and two accent colours that coordinate well,” she adds.
# 5 R OLL W IT H IT
It’s not just about what you bring, but how you bring it. Donna recommends maximising space by rolling rather than folding clothes. “You’ll fit more in and emerge with fewer creases.” And while you’re rolling, remember not to stuff your suitcase. “Locally made fashion is so tempting when you’re bored of what you’re wearing or don’t have time for clothes washing. Always leave space to pick up something unique,” Donna says.
ILL U S T R AT IO N _ B RE N T W IL S O N
TR AVEL H ACK
Heading to a cold destination? You don’t have to pack lots of heavy woolies. “A cashmere or possum merino jumper and a lightweight down-filled jacket are ideal for cold weather. They both compress to fit in your luggage, and they weigh very little,” Donna says. And her favourite bonus hack? “A down jacket – ethically sourced – makes a soft pillow on long flights.” Lightweight layers also help ward off the cold. Pack tops and long underwear for a cosy base layer.
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7 M Y T H S AB O U T...
Newcastle —Hold onto your hard hats. Peta Murray mines misconception from matter-of-fact in the former Steel City—
MYTH #1 Newcastle is still in the shadow of smokestacks > Once dubbed “Steel City”, Newcastle has cleaned up its act since bidding adieu to industrial giant BHP two decades ago. Initiatives include the Community Greening program, tough emission controls placed on local industry to improve air quality and former industrial zones such as the Honeysuckle Precinct converted into harbourside apartments, restaurants and bars.
MYTH #3
MYTH #2 It’s a small town > The second-largest city in New South Wales behind capital Sydney, Newcastle also ranks as the seventh largest metropolis in the nation, making it bigger than Canberra, Darwin and Hobart.
Local sand is exported to Hawaiian beaches > With no less than six beaches situated a few minutes’ drive from the CBD and Stockton Bight to the north, home of the largest shifting sand dunes in the Southern Hemisphere, Newcastle has plenty of golden grains to share but tales of sand being shipped over to replenish the shores of Waikiki are just that.
T H E C H ECKL IS T
025
“NE WCASTLE IS H O ME TO M ORE ART ISTS PER
MYTH #4
CAPI TA T H A N A N Y OT HER CI T Y IN AUSTR AL I A.”
Pasha Bulker was Newcastle’s first shipwreck > When the 40,000-tonne Danish-operated bulk carrier lobbed up on Nobbys Beach at the height of 2007’s destructive east coast low, it was not the first ship to come unstuck – more than 200 vessels have wrecked around the harbour entrance over the last two centuries. View the Pasha Bulker sculpture, which includes a portion of the ship’s rudder, on Nobbys Beach Promenade, or take a boat tour along Newcastle’s coastline to see other famous shipwrecks along with marine life and rugged cliffs and caves (coastxp.com).
MYTH #5 Newcastle is too light on attractions > Often viewed as bridesmaid to glamorous big sister Sydney, the Newcastle area lays claim to some of the state’s most enviable beaches as well as Lake Macquarie, Australia’s largest coastal saltwater lake and the world-renowned Hunter Valley wine region. One of Lonely Planet’s top 10 international cities to visit in 2011, Newcastle also hosts major sporting events such as Surfest, the largest surf competition in the Southern Hemisphere, and the Supercars Newcastle 500, held December 4-6, 2020.
MYTH #6 It was Cold Chisel on stage during the infamous 1979 riot > One of the largest riots in Australian history took place in Newcastle on the night of 19 September 1979 over the closure of a popular pub, the Star Hotel. While this event was later immortalised in song by Cold Chisel on their 1980 album East, Chisel never played a gig there. The band performing on the night of the riot was local group, Heroes. These days you can catch Newcastle’s best acts at The Cambridge Hotel (thecambridgehotel.com. au), voted the state’s Best Live Music Venue in 2018.
MYTH #7 It has always been called Newcastle > The Awabakal and Worimi peoples are acknowledged as the traditional custodians of Newcastle, and the earliest Indigenous reference to the naming of the area is Muloobinba, meaning “place of the edible sea fern”. European settlers and convicts arrived at the turn of the 18th century to dig coal mines and a convict camp called King’s Town was established. The area was named Newcastle after Newcastle upon Tyne, in 1804.
AND 3 TRUTHS Newcastle is home to more artists than any other city in Australia > The city also claims the most art galleries per capita. Newcastle Art Gallery says it houses one of “Australia’s most substantial public art collections” outside the major capital cities while the past decade has seen an artist-led inner-city regeneration campaign (Renew Newcastle), converting empty buildings into studios for emerging young talent. The city is full of underground mineshafts > Centuries of coal mining have left subterranean Newcastle honeycombed with abandoned mineshafts, mostly rendered impassable due to subsidence and rock fall. It is the world’s largest coal port > Newcastle coal was the first substance exported from the colony of NSW in the late 18th century. Today, it makes up about 90 per cent of Newcastle Harbour’s output with annual exports of about 160 million tonnes to Asia.
S Y DA LIA’S AUSTR A
1 DAY
PASS
E ST THEM ’S BIGGE IA L A R T TO AUS
$ ADULTS
PARK
99
ENJOY 2 PARKS IN 1 DAY
during your Gold Coast holiday, with entry to Dreamworld and WhiteWater World for one day at only $89 for children and $99 for adultswhen you buy online*.
Buy online, visit dreamworld.com.au *Terms and conditions apply, see website for details.
T H E C H ECKL IS T
S M AR TER W ORK IN G
> FIN A N CES “Keep track of your cash flow and make sure you invoice for your work immediately on completion,” says John Kennedy, director at Tide Financial. “Don’t forget about tax. Being hit with a large tax bill at the end of the year could mean the end of your flexi career. A good discipline to have is to save at least 20 per cent of every assignment income for the taxman.”
DlY guide to the digital nomad life —Flexible working arrangements have been proven to boost motivation, productivity and happiness. Here’s how to master the out-of-office lifestyle— Live, work, travel: it’s possible to do it all at once, and that’s exactly what digital nomads do. The antithesis of 9-5 (let’s face it, more like 8-7) in the office, digital nomads use technology to work remotely and go one step beyond remote workers by being “location independent” – that is, they can work from anywhere. Why be physically present for a 30-minute meeting if you can get the same job done using Google Hangouts while sitting in a café in Bali? More than 4.8 million US workers describe themselves as digital nomads. Totally reliant on Wi-Fi, nomads are a growing part of the remote workforce, fuelling the rise in demand for co-working spaces, job sites and information-based sites that rate cities around the world based on cost, internet, fun and safety (nomadlist.com). Obviously there are careers that require a home base, but for those who want to work on the go (and can), these are the three key areas to focus on.
> PR O D U C T I V I T Y “Get your most important work done first and do admin at the end of the day. Check emails three times per day, rather than constantly getting interrupted by a ping in your inbox,” says Clare Robinson, from Clarety Coaching & Consulting.
4 .8 MIL L I O N W O RK ER S IN T H E U S DES CR IBE T H EM SELV ES A S DIGI TAL N O M A D S.
> T IM E M A N AG EM EN T “Learn to manage your energy and not time spent on the job. If you’re vital and thriving then you can add more value. Structure your time in a way that optimises this. As humans, we operate in 90-minute cycles of energy known as an ultradian rhythm,” says Clare. “Stick to 90-minute blocks, taking 15-minute breaks in between. Scrolling on social media doesn’t count as a break!”
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IN TERV IE W
N A ME J UL IE M AT H ER S O C C U PAT IO N F O U N DER OF EC O PR O D U C T S O NL IN E S T O RE, FL O R A & FA U N A. L O C AT IO N N O R T H R O CKS, SY D NE Y, A U S T R AL I A. OFFICE W A REH O U SE/ OFFICE/BR ICKSA N D-M O R TA R S T O RE – ALL IN O N E.
J UL IE’S T O P T IP S F O R RE TA IL S U C CES S 1. Get as physically close as you can to your products. Anyone who starts at Flora & Fauna spends four weeks in the warehouse because that’s the heart of our business and it’s where you learn what customers are buying. 2. Keep your customer care team close – the information they have is gold for your business, whether it’s an issue with a product or if the website is down. 3. Skill up. When we started I had to learn to be an ecommerce manager, a buyer, a customer service manager and a graphic designer (I even took a halfday photoshop course).
W O R D S _ J E N N Y H E W E T T, A L E X A N D R A C A R L T O N
> How did you get where you are today? I started in retail 25 years ago – everything from shop floors to management consultancy. I’m a big believer that my duty in this world is to make a difference and and that I could either influence the people where I work or do my own thing. So I thought, let’s be brave, and launched Flora & Fauna five years ago, driven by my passion for animal welfare and environmentalism. It’s been amazing – the business has grown by over 600 per cent, we won a Telstra NSW Business of the Year award [for Best Small & Succeeding Business for NSW] in 2018 and we were just ranked number nine in the Deloitte Tech Fast 50. > What are your rules for meetings? Don’t be in them unless you can add value. We’re all busy. All meetings must have a desired output and it doesn’t matter if they’re short. If it only needs five minutes, make it five minutes. > Tell us something different you’ve done in your business that’s contributed to its success? We’ve included a handwritten note on every single box we’ve sent out, from day one. So that’s about 400,000 notes. A team member signs it off with their name and they can write whatever they want. We also have a Facebook group where our community can ask each other questions. I go in there all the time – as Julie, not as Flora & Fauna – and offer my thoughts and advice. > What’s the atmosphere like in your office? You can wear what you like. We always have music going – there’s an office playlist that anyone can add to, and the team bursts into song quite a lot. > Where have you travelled lately that’s moved you? My husband and I went to Lord Howe Island a couple of years ago. It’s a hidden gem, a real sanctuary with a local community feel. It’s a struggle to get internet so it’s perfect for switching off.
T H E C H ECKL IS T
TEC H N OL O GY
Update —Gear, apps, tech talk and more— —
Huawei Watch GT 2 $ 429
> Stylish and functional, this smartwatch uses a dual chip design to improve app performance and reduce power consumption – giving active types up to two weeks of battery life and the ability to monitor activity 24/7. The bright AMOLED display is suited for outdoor use as much as indoor, with water resistance up to 50 metres swimming and other shallow water activities. consumer.huawei.com/au
Razer Hammerhead Earbuds $167.95
> These true wireless earbuds from gaming juggernaut, Razer, feature 13mm audio drivers for mind-bending clarity and power across all frequency ranges. Touch buttons on either earbud give you control of playback or voice assistant functions, with the small charging caddy providing up to 16 hours of juice. Activate low-latency (minimal delay) mode to bring a higher level of precision to your mobile gaming audio. www2.razer.com
WORDS_ MARK GAMBINO
Moment Superfish Lens $15 3
> Take your smartphone photography to the next level with this ultra-wide-angle lens. The 170-degree “fish eye” lens is made from premium-grade materials to provide edge-to-edge sharpness and contrast, giving landscape, event and starlight photos and video an exaggerated view. The lightweight design also means you can slip it into your carry-on and breeze through airport security in a snap. For use with Moment phone cases for Apple, Samsung, Google and OnePlus smartphones. shopmoment.com
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Mirrorless cameras > A lightweight alternative to their larger digital singlelens reflex (DSLR) siblings, essentially, a digital mirror-less camera operates without the small internal mirror that reflects light from the lens through a viewfinder – instead sending this light directly to the camera’s digital sensor. Lenses are interchangeable, so you can use wide-angle 24mm lens for landscapes, for example, and a longer 200mm lens for subjects at a distance, such as wildlife. The camera’s digital sensor and image processor chip will influence the quality of photos and how many frames per second you can take. Sports photography will need a high frame rate, while nature shots will do better with a sensor with a large megapixel (MP) count. A high ISO (which determines sensitivity ratings for camera sensors) function will give you better shots in low light, but you’ll need a powerful image processor to improve picture quality. Lastly, the image stabilisation (IS) function will improve the sharpness of your images, giving them a professional polish. Built-in optical stabilisation is preferred to digital stabilisation (software), which may crop shots to improve focus.
APPS 3 to try... #1
SONY ALPHA A5100 $899 The innovative auto focus system and advanced digital processing chip of this camera use a depth sensor and AI to ensure your photos are always in focus and tack sharp. Use Wi-Fi to transfer photos to your smartphone and upload easily to social media. sony.com.au
#2 FUJIFILM X-T30 $1599 High-speed shooting (30 frames per second), an improved auto focus system and high ISO make this model a favourite in Fujifilm’s X series line-up. Use software features to automate your shooting style, then switch to video mode to capture high-quality 4K footage. fujifilm.com.au #3 CANON EOS RP $1749 The full-frame (35mm equivalent) 26MP sensor of the RP gives photographers more sensor area for greater definition. Use manual focus controls or switch to auto for highspeed auto focus in 0.05 seconds. store.canon.com.au
Smart (not so) casual > Full-body haptics are a new type of smart clothing designed to measure and track a user’s movement for simulation in a virtual world. Haptic clothing can also provide real-world feedback from things encountered in the virtual environment. Imagine getting a handshake from someone on a different continent through virtual reality (VR), then feeling it in the real world as the haptic glove on your hand stimulates your tactile senses. Designed by VR Electronics, the smart clothing uses Electrical Muscle Stimulation (EMS) to provide full-body sensation and biometric feedback to software. Developers are looking at applications for sporting, industrial and consumer use to be made available in five years.
VoiceMap IO S + A N DR OID Get travel tips, must-sees and local secrets of more than 150 of the world’s most popular cities, including Tokyo and Singapore, with this GPS-enabled audio tour app. Focused on storytelling, new content for walking tours is added weekly. It’s just like having a personal travel guide in your pocket!
GoodSAM Responder IO S + A N DR OID Get emergency medical help from certified responders around the world through a network of local Community First Responders linked with ambulance services. Use this app to alert nearby first aiders and medics to call for emergency treatment – such as First Aid, CPR and defibrillator – to help improve chances of recovery.
BROUGHT TO YOU BY BROADBEACH ALLIANCE
> EAT
Find your place in the sun this autumn SUNNY, SURFY AND PACKED WITH AMAZING THINGS TO DO, BROADBEACH HAS ALWAYS BEEN A STAR ATTRACTION ON THE GOLD COAST. ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS GET THERE – AND CHOOSE BETWEEN BEACH, FESTIVALS, DINING AND MORE.
> STAY
> PLAY While the Gold Coast’s 57-kilometre strip of coastline is world famous, Broadbeach’s long run of wide, white-sand beaches often slips under the radar. The beach is lined by parks that are ideal for picnics (pick a spot under a shady tree). It is also patrolled for safety and there are art and crafts markets at nearby Kurrawa Park every first and third Sunday of the month. For slightly more upscale shopping, head to Oracle Boulevard, a luxury retail precinct that’s also home to many of the Gold Coast’s best restaurants, including Mamasan Kitchen & Bar (mamasanbroadbeach. com). For a breezy shopping experience, stroll to Pacific Fair (pacificfair.com.au), an open-air shopping mall set among palm trees.
View the lineup and book your accommodation today at bluesonbroadbeach.com
Broadbeach is where Gold Coast locals go to eat and some of the best restaurants still feel like undiscovered gems. Access Aloha Bar and Dining (alohabaranddining. com.au) via a nondescript laneway to find share plates, tacos, poke bowls, ramen and exotic cocktails with names such as “Return of the Gidget”, served up in hollowed-out pineapples and watermelons. At Hideaway Kitchen & Bar (hideawaykitchen.com.au), locals gather among the graffiti art décor to dine on the best Asian street food on the Gold Coast. And despite having one hat and an award-winning chef (Matt Jefferson), there is nothing pretentious about Social Eating House + Bar (socialeatinghouse. com.au). Their espresso martinis are to die for.
And between 14-17 May 2020, the laid-back suburb comes alive with Blues On Broadbeach (bluesonbroadbeach.com), one of Australia’s biggest free music festivals bringing together some of the best blues artists from around the world. Now in its 19th year, the event offers more than 200 hours of live entertainment at bars, restaurants and on the streets. Two-time Grammy nominee Tommy Emmanuel will headline this year’s event.
The Star Grand The refurbished hotel has 596 spacious, state-of-the-art rooms and suites and easy access to six bars, a 24-hour casino and gourmet restaurant, Nineteen at The Star, plus the Star Casino. star.com.au/goldcoast Peppers Broadbeach If you want to stay in the heart of Broadbeach, book a room at the resort’s sculpted towers. It has its own spa, cinema, Zen garden and private Tai Chi lawn. peppers.com.au/broadbeach
T H E C H ECKL IS T
T R AVEL NE W S
In the know —The latest buzz on where to play, stay and holiday—
W ELL N ES S
Soak it all in Go to Vietnam for the intriguing culture and scenery – but stay for unique Wellness Voyages at hot springs resort Alba Wellness Valley by Fusion, just 30 kilometres from former Imperial capital Hue. The three-, five- and seven-day packages include hiking, biking, spa treatments and water meditation, apart from healing soaks in the on-ground geothermal springs, all complemented by healthy food. It’s not all Zen-ing out though – tours to local villages and pagodas are also available. albawellnessvalley.com
N E W H O T EL
W O R D S _ D E B O R A H G R U N F E L D, C E L E S T E M I T C H E L L
Retro revival When does going to the bank sound like fun? When it’s a luxurious new hotel that’s housed in the heritage-listed former Queensland Government Savings Bank building in Brisbane. Joining the slew of new hotels in the city, Adina Apartment Hotel Brisbane offers 220 contemporary rooms and suites in the carefully restored 1920s building, each fitted out with its own kitchen. Not that you’ll want to cook any of your own meals, with acclaimed restaurant Donna Chang located on site, and Brisbane’s many cool restaurants and attractions within easy access of the centrally located hotel. adinahotels.com
W E T ‘N’ W IL D
Swell times Board riders of all abilities will be stoked with the waves at URBNSURF Melbourne – Australia’s first surf park. The two-hectare lagoon pumps out some 1000 epic waves an hour, with surf lessons and sessions on offer. Spectators can lounge on daybeds and cabanas and refuel with food truck pop-ups. urbnsurf.com
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Galactically good > The Light Years Asian diner in Burleigh Heads, Queensland, embodies the GC spirit with motel signs and breezeblocks. The menu includes dishes such as char siu pork with pineapple kimchi, and veggie options like miso caramel eggplant that shout, rather than sing, from the sidelines. Expect velvet seating, colourful tiles and organic house wine from Jilly – served from biodegradable “goon” bags. lightyearsasiandiner.com.au
Top four date nights with a difference —Romance – but not as you know it. Forget candlelit dinners, these designed-for-two activities are guaranteed to blow your mind—
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> TANDEM BUNGEE JUMP CAIRNS, QLD
> HIDE AWAY IN THE HIGHLANDS LAKE ST CLAIR, TAS
> MYSTERY PICNIC DATE MORNINGTON PENINSULA, VIC
> TAKE OFF FROM THE WATER SYDNEY, NSW
Check in to luxe Pumphouse Point, remote on Australia’s deepest lake, for the perfect getaway. pumphouse point.com.au
Victoria’s seaside region is one of many options for a picnic with a difference: solve clues to find the hamper goodies, then tuck in! au.amazingco.me
Talk about couple goals. Take the leap, literally, 50m off the ground, and make this the only kind of rebound you’ll ever experience. ajhackett.com
This seaplane ride will give you the best views of the Harbour City – and get those butterflies fluttering once more. sydneyby seaplane.com
Conscious carry-on > If you’re looking for a durable, weather-safe and eco-friendly travel bag, look no further than cult Melbourne accessories brand Crumpler’s latest collection. The “veggie leather” Elemental line, in flint and black, helps keep essentials to hand, whether it’s with a backpack, tote, messenger or cross-body bag. crumpler.com.au
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FEBRUARY NO MATTER WHERE YOU ARE THIS MONTH, THERE’S PLENTY TO ENJOY...
CRICKET
SYDNEY ICC Women’s T20 World Cup Opener 21.02.20
Adelaide Fringe Festival
Talk about bowling a maiden over. Sydney hosts the first official match of the ICC Women’s World Cup, Australia v. India, before the comp makes its way around the country. C’mon, Aussies! tickets.t20worldcup.com
MUSIC
MELBOURNE An Evening with Michael Bublé
07.02-01.03.20
15,16,18.02.20
Catch the greatest shows in town, from ballet to hip-hop to smooth groove. (Hello, Craig David!) There are more than 250 events lined up, even an outdoor cinema, so dive in to celebrate all things arts and culture. perthfestival.com.au
Fall under the spell of the Canadian crooner and his 36-piece orchestra on the Victorian leg of his Australian tour. rodlaverarena.com.au
Daniel Boud, Jeffrey Feng, Rohan Thomson, Trentino Priori
PERTH
This year marks the 60th birthday of the Southern Hemisphere’s largest open access arts festival, where all the magic of comedy through to theatre will take over the South Australian city. adelaidefringe.com.au
FESTIVAL
Perth Festival
14.02-15.03.20
WELLNESS
ARTS
BRISBANE
ADEL AIDE
Mind Body Spirit Festival
T H E RE’S A D AY F O R T H AT ?
28.02-01.03.20
Find your still point, balance your chakras and be grounded by all things from crystals to cosmetics of the kind-to-earth variety. mbsfestival.com.au
World Radio Day 13.02.20
COMEDY
TA S M A N I A Grapes of Mirth 23.02.20
Enjoy an afternoon of laughs, glass of wine in hand, at Josef Chromy Wines near Launceston. Hosted by selfprofessed head clown Merrick Watts. grapesofmirth.com.au FESTIVAL
BRISBANE Brisbane Holi: Festival of Colours
International Day of Women and Girls in Science 11.02.20
Random Acts of Kindness Day 17.02.20
29.02.20
The vibrant Indian festival is now celebrated annually as part of BrisAsia. Go online to reserve your pigmented colours for fun on the day. eventbrite.com.au
CULTURE
CANBERRA
World Day of Social Justice 20.02.20
Sydney Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras Parade 29.02.20
The highlight of the fortnight-long Mardi Gras festival, that includes film screenings, picnics and a family fun day, is the city-stopping parade of over 200 floats. Time to party and celebrate diversity – glitter will not be spared! mardigras.org.au
Head to the nation’s capital to enjoy samba from Brazil and bagpipes from Scotland in one of the biggest celebrations of cultural heritage across Australia. multiculturalfestival.com.au
PARADE
21-23.02.20
SYDNEY
National Multicultural Festival
041—070
the traveller > WHERE TO GO NEXT
Y O G A R E T R E AT S PAG E
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PA G E
> The island first appeared on Chinese maps dating back to 1687 and was called “Pulo Cornam”.
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> Banjo Paterson’s “Waltzing Matilda” was first performed publicly at the North Gregory Hotel in Winton back in 1895.
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> You can stand with one foot in “today” and the other in “yesterday” on Taveuni Island on the International Dateline.
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T HE T R AVELLER
E AT, P R AY, —Want to pair your holiday with your headstand practice? From Byron to Bali there’s a raft of yoga retreats that are guaranteed to help beginners and pros alike salute the sun in style, says Paul Ewart—
NAMASTE Sweat slowly runs down my face as the smell of incense floats through the sticky Bali air. I’ve contorted my body into the most taxing version of Warrior II that I can muster and my quads are shaking, my outstretched arms trembling, my mind buckling. I’m about to admit defeat just as I hear over the speakers, “Baby! I’m hot just like an oven. I need some lovin’…” I smile and stay with the pose. When I signed up to Power Living’s “Uncover & Transform” yoga retreat (powerliving.com. au) on Bali’s east coast a few months prior, I had not envisaged sweating it out on my mat to Marvin Gaye’s “Sexual Healing”. Nor did I expect to be balancing on my head in a tripod headstand to Dirty Dancing’s “(I’ve Had) The Time of My Life”. I quickly discover that while some elements of a yoga retreat are predictable (lentils, chanting and multiple “Oms”), the days are filled with small – and significant – surprises that turn out
W ELL NES S
to be exactly why I booked the retreat in the first place, held at the beachfront Komune Resort (komuneresorts.com), about a 45-minute drive from Denpasar. The one-week immersion promises “a journey of radical self-discovery”. Health and self-care retreats in all their forms – extreme fitness, silence, sleep, intensive detox, healing, weight loss, meditation and the rest – are on the rise and form the foundation of the booming $941-billion-a-year wellness tourism industry. And while travellers may be swapping their annual beach or city holiday for more meaningful and transformative experiences, the humble yoga retreat remains hugely popular. Like the Mountain Pose, it’s an unflinching wellness stayer.
“N ORM ALLY, DA N CIN G S OBER IN P UBL IC W O UL D BE MY IDE A OF HELL, B U T BY T HIS P OIN T I H AVE STEPPED WELL O U TSIDE MY C O MF ORT ZO NE.”
Later, I’m sweating it out and smiling to unexpected tunes. On our first day I end up chatting with the retreat’s main facilitator and Power Living founder, Duncan Peak, who tells me earnestly, “This week will change your life.” I can tell he really means it. Retreat attendees – about 80 of us – quickly fall into a routine. Rising groggily at 6.30am, days begin with morning meditation, followed by two hour-long sweaty asana practices in the spacious open-air yoga shala. Next, we sit down to a communal breakfast which is, unsurprisingly, all veggie but still delicious. Mid-morning, propped up on bolsters, we learn about anatomy and dive into more than 5000 years’ worth of yogic philosophy. Breaking for lunch, we have free time to swim, soak up some sun or relax with a massage before we return to the shala for more yoga practice – another Vinyasa practice or a more relaxing Yin – followed by dinner and then evening playtime. One night we have a group kirtan (sacred chanting) singalong and another, a Pitch Perfect-style dance off. Normally, dancing sober in public would be my idea of hell on earth, but by this point I have already stepped well and truly outside my comfort zone. Shaking my booty and beaming like an idiot, I actually enjoy myself. But it isn’t all highs. Over the course of the week my emotions ride a rattling roller-coaster – I swing from feeling elated and energised to exhausted and deflated. This is due, no doubt, to one of the main elements of the retreat: an
exploration of how the mind works to reduce the suffering caused by our “negative core beliefs”, as Duncan calls them. The bulk of our afternoon sessions are spent working on this and there are tears. Lots of tears. While not an intentional outcome, the tight schedule also means that I’m able to unplug from tech, allowing me to focus on my inner connection rather than one related to Wi-Fi. I find I connect with people on the retreat in ways I never have before. My fellow students are a constant source of emotional support. Warm and open, we find ourselves having deep, honest conversations throughout each day, admitting our character flaws and weaknesses, sharing hopes and dreams and revealing things that even our closest friends don’t know. By day five I feel lighter, brighter, full of energy. I’m excited about heading home to tackle new challenges and incorporate what I’ve learned – both about yoga and myself – into my daily life back in Australia. “The reality is no-one but you can make you feel anything,” Duncan tells us. “You are accountable for how you feel.” It’s a liberating
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idea and it’s one that I’m already putting into practice. The same day during morning yoga I fall spectacularly out of a pose. But rather than berating myself internally, like I would normally, I laugh. Laughter is essential on a retreat. On our final night, we break the retreat’s booze-ban and have a few celebratory Bintangs. The next morning, following our final yoga class, we jump en masse into the swimming pool for one last moment of togetherness before drying off, swapping numbers and emails and exchanging lengthy hugs before going our separate ways. Pulling out of the driveway in the taxi, I consider my week. In its simplest form, a retreat allows a complete break from life. In our 24/7 culture, the act of taking time to check in with yourself and test your physical limits offers, for me, more of a recharge than a week spent poolside in a tropical location. Every other attendee I chat with seems to have undergone a change in perspective or had an epiphany, big or small. We’ve spent a week dedicating hours daily on the mat and our practice has grown in leaps and bounds. We’ve also been nourished by good food and the company of good people. I feel better physically and mentally than I have for years. With retreat world behind me and the real world in front, I’m reminded of Duncan’s words: “It will change your life.” He was right. And while I’m far from an enlightened Yoda-like sage, I do know that changing your life, and developing your yoga practice, is never-ending. I also know a yoga retreat can spark the beginning of such a journey – if you let it.
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MORE AMAZING YOGA HOLIDAYS...
Byron Bay
A U S T R AL I A
With a reputation for spirituality and clean living stretching back decades, travellers are drawn to Byron Bay in search of the perfect wave and the perfect yoga studio. There’s an A to Z of yoga school options but you can’t go past the Byron Yoga Centre – it has been operating for more than 30 years and is a local institution. Retreats are run over three, five and eight-day programs and include twice-daily classes, meditation, massage and workshops covering everything from philosophy to mindfulness. byronyoga.com H A W A II
Lumi Yoga pairs a tropical fly-and-flop with an active wellness warrior getaway on this beautiful island. Offering year-round yoga and surf retreats, which run from a minimum of six nights through to several weeks, classes are suitable for beginners and experienced yogis alike. Twice-daily yoga, two-hour surfing lessons twice a day (the retreat is located right next to the world-renowned breaks off Haleiwa), guided beach meditations and nightly wellness discussions ensure both body and mind are taken care of. lumiyogahawaii.com
SPA VILL AGE RES ORT
Oahu
Tembok
S UA N SATI
B AL I
The Balinese emphasis on “balance” aligns perfectly with the practice of yoga and contemporary travellers looking to achieve some internal equilibrium should make a beeline for Spa Village Resort, a palm tree-fringed property on the island’s north-eastern coast. A galaxy away from the party-hard crowds at Kuta and Seminyak, the remote beachfront setting – ringed by a volcanic landscape and lush tropical gardens – is a tonic for the body and soul. Pairing traditional Balinese healing rituals with modern approaches to wellbeing, yoga and wellness retreats run regularly throughout the year and feature the “School of Life” program where guests are taught techniques and skills to allow them to redesign their lives and reconnect with themselves. Expect yoga classes for all levels, chakra meditation sessions, hands-on wellness workshops and indulgent top-to-toe spa treatments including the “massage under the stars” (performed at the edge of the ocean under a canopy of stars). spavillageresort.com
YO G A RE T RE AT S
AR O H A
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Queenstown
N E W ZE AL A N D
Across the Tasman – and a quick 45-minute drive from Queenstown – is Aro Ha, where the all-inclusive six-day signature retreat is not just about sweating it out on the mat, but personal transformation too. Catering to a maximum of 18 guests, programs comprise twice-daily yoga, nutrient-dense vegan meals (using organic produce grown onsite), mindful meditation, hikes around the nearby stunning Southern Alps and daily blissful massages. aro-ha.com
Da Nang
V IE T N A M
At Fusion Maia, indulgent massages and facials aren’t the only happy surprises that come with the room rate (guests get to enjoy two spa treatments daily). Set in the coastal city of Da Nang in central Vietnam, the complex of pool villas, palm-lined gardens and nearby ocean immediately conjure serenity. Week-long retreats put serious yoga-lovers through their paces with a schedule of six classes per day, spanning the yogic medley and held across two yoga studios (one open-air sea-fronting and one indoor and air-conditioned). Other wellness classes include tai chi and meditation. fusionresorts.com
“W I T H M ORE T H A N 30 0 TEMPLES – T HE HIG HEST C O N CEN TR AT IO N IN T HE C O U N TRY – I T’S CLE AR WHY THERE’S A HEF T Y D OSE OF ZEN IN THE AIR.”
Chiang Mai
T H A IL A N D
Vanua Levu
F I JI
A world away from the tourist bustle sits Chiang Mai’s lush green hills. And with more than 300 temples – the highest concentration in the country – it’s clear why there’s a hefty dose of Zen in the air. Positioned on a five-acre organic rice paddy in the northern Thai countryside, Suan Sati offers a two-for-one rejuvenation program with a style of yoga geared towards helping meditation practice. Housed within a permaculture complex, everything in the retreat is recycled, from toilet paper to shower water, so you can hit the mat with a clean conscience. suansati.com
Located in the postcard-perfect beach town of Savusavu, Daku Resort is touted as one of Fiji’s top yoga destinations. Daily schedules comprise morning practice, breakfast and deep relaxation, lunch, an afternoon excursion and restorative yoga before a healthy dinner. Led by experienced teachers from all over the world, retreats are often paired with activities such as snorkelling and hiking, allowing guests to drift into “island time” with ease. dakuresort.com
Jetstar Holiday Packages Book your flight and hotel as a package, and you’ll always get the best prices available at jetstar.com
T H E T R AV ELLER
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01. THE WELLNESS SEEKER
Koh Samui 1 DES T IN AT IO N 3 WAYS
02. THE WATER BABY
—It’s home to some of the world’s best dive spots, soul-soothing retreats and... football golf! Three insiders share their secrets to enjoying the many wonders of Thailand’s second largest island—
03. THE FAMILY
WORDS_ GEORGINA ROYNAN
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The Wellness Seeker
NAME D MI T RY S H U R U P O V O C C U PAT IO N C O-O W N ER OF YO G A H O U SE & SPA
Strike a pose > My day starts with Ashtanga yoga practice
LOCAL TIP. At Koh Samui’s Wat Samret, the Secret Hall of Buddhas is unlocked by the temple’s monks only on request.
SILVER BEAC H
HIK IN G IN T HE JU N GLE
(house-yoga.com), with a small but devoted community of Ashtanga practitioners on the island. Afterwards, I head home to have breakfast, followed by some sunbathing and swimming in the Lamai area on Silver Beach – our favourite – with my wife and daughter.
Step up > You might not know it, but Koh Samui is also home to many beautiful hiking spots. I love going to the mountain road between Maenam Soi 1 in the north and Lamai area and stopping halfway through to hike among the endless jungle. My other favourites include the small (and non-touristy) Wat Khao Chedi temple, not far from the more popular Laem Sor Pagoda. It has a calm pure energy and a beautiful sea view. Hin Lat and Khun Si waterfalls are two other must visits, as they are quieter than the more popular waterfall sites.
Get hands-on help > A Thai massage a day is de rigueur in Koh Samui, but beware – the real deal can be quite painful. Phu’s Massage and Rey Wellness Massage (fb.me/ ReyWellnessMassage) in Lamai are both good, but don’t expect a gentle rubdown. They’re therapeutic rather than pampering and help with tense muscles.
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Connect with others > It’s definitely worth joining Facebook groups such
K A M AL AYA
as Koh Samui Conscious Community (fb.com/groups/ KohPhanganCC) to stay abreast of various wellness events on the island. Samui Green Market (fb.me/ SamuiGreenMarket), where local vendors sell everything from homemade healthy food to natural cosmetics, happens every four to six weeks. There’s also a group called Free Yoga Community Samui that offers classes for free, but any donation you can give is passed on to local charities. And if you want to boost wellbeing both for yourself and the planet, join the Trash Hero Koh Samui project ‒ a group of Thais and foreigners who regularly gather on different beaches to collect litter (fb.me/TrashHeroKohSamui).
Change your mind > If you’re going all in, try a one-week meditation retreat in Dipabhāvan Centre (dipabhavan.weebly.com), where you can glean an understanding of Buddhist philosophy. You need to be prepared before you go, though – the schedule is intense and leaving before the week is over isn’t allowed. The focus is on simplicity – expect dormitory living and vegetarian food – but the experience can be transformative. A more luxurious option is a wellness retreat at Kamalaya (kamalaya.com); they also organise public events with visiting healers and yogis from all over the world.
Eat clean > Lamai is one of the best areas in Samui to go green. Lamai Veggie (fb.me/LamaiVeggie) is run by Bee, who serves up a menu that changes every day. Her amazing lunch dishes include homemade soy sausages, papaya salad and green curry, as well as coconut lime bars or peanut caramel slices for dessert. A five-minute amble down the road will take you to Pure Vegan Heaven (pureveganheaven.com), where you have to try the cacao and banana bowl. At Yoga House & Spa, we organise Samui Vegan Day once a week, a cosy gathering where guests come with their own vegan eats to share. A good resource is HappyCow website (happycow.net) and app, which reviews all the veggie-friendly places on Koh Samui. PAPAYA SAL AD
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Make a splash > To find the best dive and snorkelling sites in the Gulf of Thailand, cruise to Koh Tao, about one and a half hours away by speedboat. Here you will find all kinds of tropical reef fish and an amazing diversity of coral – up to 10 different kinds in just one square metre. There are lots of boat tours and ferries, but Calypso Diving has two catamarans, which get you to the site faster and are more comfortable than a monohull. diving-calypso.com
K H AO M A N GAI
NAME D O MINIC KO NZEL M A N N O C C U PAT IO N DI V E G UID E
TAL IN G N GA M
The Water Baby
DIVIN G IN KO H TAO
LOCAL TIP. Taling Ngam is one of the quietest beaches on the island – and the shallow waters are great for snorkelling.
Fuel up > A favourite haunt of dive guides is a tiny eatery, BBQ Buffet. It’s on the so-called Ghost Road, a short cut through north-eastern Koh Samui, from Bang Rak beach to Chaweng. It’s an unassuming place – there’s no website or number – but it’s probably the best Thai barbecue on the island, which is why it’s always full. I also like Mr Doon in Bang Por – it’s a lovely restaurant on the beach with a great selection of Thai breakfast and lunch options. Try the Khao Man Gai, a Thai variation of Hainanese chicken rice, with a portion of Moo Crop (crispy pork belly).
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Raise a glass
SAIL R O CK
> After a long stretch out on the water,
Have a whale of a time > One of my favourite places to take guests for a dive is the Southwest Pinnacle, an underwater mountain range, also in the Koh Tao area. There are seven “pinnacles” – the biggest can be seen from five metres, the smallest requires a 28-metre descent. You can find big groupers, three kinds of barracudas, bat fish, trevalli and – with a bit of luck – the gentle giant that is the whale shark. A day at the Pinnacle finishes at Sail Rock, which ascends out of the water like a sail and is famous for its natural chimney.
“YO U CA N’T G O FI VE MIN U TES WI T H O U T B U MPIN G IN TO A BAR WI T H A SE A VIE W A N D A H APPY H O UR.”
But first, coffee > Boy’s Organic Coffee, on the beach in West Samui, offers the island’s best brew, hands-down. The Mocha with Peaberry Bean is to die for and the beans come from organic farms in the highlands of Northern Thailand. That’s fair trade at its purest. About Café on Mae Nam’s Walking Street is also a cute place where you can pick up a book with your banana pancakes or chat to the owner, Koy.
DIVIN G WIT H A W H ALE SH ARK
there’s nothing better than shoring up with a drink to debrief on the day’s dives. There are plenty of coastal bars on the island – you can’t go five minutes without bumping into a bar with a sea view and a happy hour. However, I love going to The Beer Masons (thebeermasons.com), just off Chaweng Beach, for craft beer. Created by former underwater photographer Marek Novak, the bar offers a wide selection of IPA, stouts and lagers – the apple crumble cider is a revelation – and great Thai finger food. Just 20 minutes down the coast is Moonstone Bar (fb.me/ NapattiLp), noteworthy for its live reggae band and resident local rooster.
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Have a big day out > My family is pretty active, so taking a trip out to Ang Thong National Marine Park for a fun day of island hopping, swimming and snorkelling (samuiboatcharter.com) is always top of our list. The 42-island archipelago was featured in Alex Garland’s cult novel The Beach. Zip-lining is also a favourite activity for my adrenaline-junkie daughter, and Canopy Adventures (canopyadventuresthailand.com) has a brilliant jungle course with 15 cable rides that race for two kilometres through the jungle.
C O OK IN G CL AS S AT A N A N TAR A
LOCAL TIP. That loud “quack quack” you might hear around Koh Samui? No, it’s not a rubber duck – it’s the sound that the local tokay geckos make.
ZIP-L ININ G T HR O U G H T HE JU N GLE
Stay and play > I always recommend the Anantara Bophut Koh Samui Resort to families. The beach is a quiet haven, with calm water, perfect for young kids. The resort has a gorgeous pool facing out to sea, with shallow areas for the littlies to play, as well as a swim-up bar for mum and dad. There’s also a kids’ club with outdoor play area, indoor activities such as Muay Thai and plenty of space to run around in the landscaped gardens. anantara.com/bophut-koh-samui
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Kick some goals > Imagine golf but fast and furious – and with balls the size of watermelons. That’s a rough approximation of Football Golf, the craze sweeping Koh Samui. The aim of the game, said to have originated on the island, is to manoeuvre a soccer ball into a hole in as little “strokes” – or kicks – as possible, over 18 holes. Catch a pick-up truck to the course for some intra-family rivalry and after completing it, which takes about an hour, wander round the coconut plantation on-site. www.samuifootballgolf.com
FIRE DA N CIN G
“PAREN TS CA N C HILL O U T O N BE A NBAG S W HILE K ID S PL AY IN T HE SA N D A N D E VERYO NE LOVES T HE SW IN G S AT T HE BAR.”
See a show > The art of fire dancing is originally Māori but has become somewhat of a tourist staple in Koh Samui. Fire shows happen most nights on the island, and if you’re looking to make an evening of it, head to Coco Tam’s bar on Bophut Beach for post-dinner family time. Parents can chill out on beanbags while kids play in the sand and everyone loves the swings at the bar. Try the truffle and burrata pizza from Coco Tam’s X Peppina (fb.me/cocotamsxpeppina) over the road, then head to the bar for a Dark Passion cocktail for adults, and a lychee mint mocktail for the kids. The fire shows typically start from 10pm, so make sure you grab an afternoon nap first.
FISHERM A N’S VILL AGE
Go to market > Shopping in Koh Samui is mainly centred around the markets, such as those at Chaweng Beach Road and Chaweng Walking Street. At Fisherman’s Village night market, open from 5pm-11pm every Friday, the sleepy streets of Bophut come to life with market stalls and a fun, festive atmosphere. My kids love browsing for cheap jewellery, bags and clothing – and my daughter always seems to leave with another pair of the ubiquitous “elephant pants”. For high-street and fashion options, Central Festival is the best mall on the island and is equipped with a playground and cinema. kosamui.com/shopping
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T HE T R AVELLER
ROCK I’m standing at the mouth of a cave that was once a heaving river of molten lava, snaking a red-hot path across the ground during an eruption almost 200,000 years ago. “This isn’t like any cave I’ve ever seen,” says John, an American tourist taking part in today’s adventure. “Most caves you feel kind of trapped inside, like really enclosed, but I don’t feel like that in here.” I nod in agreement. What I notice, apart from the bursts of light that act as nature’s spotlight, is that the terrain in front of me is not the scorched, barren landscape you might expect. In fact, these lava tubes, which are part of Undara Volcanic National Park in tropical North Queensland, are surrounded by dense, green and dry rainforest. The trees and vegetation have, like the lava before them, taken over the land as far as the eye can see. Located about 300km south-west of Cairns, these lava tubes are an ancient relic of a bygone era, a time when there were more than 150 volcanoes dotted across the landscape (what is now called outback Queensland) and humans were yet to call this country home. Some 190,000 years ago a volcano, dubbed Undara Volcano, erupted, causing 23 billion cubic litres of lava to burn and flow across 1550-square kilometres. As the lava moved across the earth, it cooled at different rates, with the outer layer cooling faster than the inner core (kind of like
A DVEN T U RE
—Lava tubes are ancient caves formed from rivers of molten volcanic rock. Alana Schetzer enters a subterranean world in outback Queensland, thousands of years in the making—
S TA R S
Baptise
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52
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NEW ZEALAND
* Dermatest Australia clinical study, 2019
a lava cannoli), creating an outer crust. The result is a very different natural attraction to Queensland’s oceans, reefs and waterfalls; this one is on dry land, partly in the dark, and is one of the world’s longest trails of solidified lava from a single volcano. In order to protect this delicate environment, visitors are only allowed to inspect the tubes as part of an accredited tour, so I opt for the “Wind Tunnel Explorer” (undara.com.au), a two-hour journey that partly does away with walking platforms and involves some climbing over rocks. It seems a shame to delve into a cave when the ever-reliable Queensland sun is doing what it does best but the first thing you notice is that these hollows aren’t of the dark and dank variety. Over many, many years, various parts of the cave system have collapsed, opening up areas for light to reach in and vine thickets to grow. There are some enormous light wells that act like cinema screen-sized windows to the lush, green vines and trees that have bound themselves to the rocks. Even as you explore areas that are quite dark, you know sunlight and a beautifully ragged garden aren’t far away. It’s like walking through your own dimly lit fairytale wonderland. Up close, the surface of the tubes is startling to look at – you can see colour and textures play games with you. Depending on which part of the tube you are in, you can be surrounded by deep browns with chalky elements, or flaming reds and bright oranges, not unlike the molten lava that created them. Our walking pace is slow as our Undara Experience guide, armed with a torch, explains the explosive history of the caves and how they were formed. He points out various parts of the lava tubes that are an ecological haven for dozens of animals such as the eastern cave bat,
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“E VEN AS YO U EXPLORE ARE AS T H AT ARE Q UI TE DARK, YO U K N O W SU NL IG H T A N D A BE AU T IFULLY R AG GED GARDEN AREN’T FAR AWAY. I T’S L IKE A FA IRY TALE W O N DERL A N D.”
U NDAR A CEN TR AL
@phlipvids, Brad Newton
T H EQ UTEEN R AVSL ELLER AND
little red flying fox and the delightfully named blue-faced honeyeater bird. Given the enormous size of the caves – there are two main branches, the shortest being about 16km – we don’t have time to see the whole system. And some areas aren’t safe due to their high carbon dioxide levels, so each guided tour focuses on small, harmless and accessible parts. The tour guides are exactly what you hope they will be – friendly, knowledgeable and always up for a joke, even of the “dad” variety. And I have plenty. “Hey,” I say. “Do you know what the girl volcano said to the boy volcano?” “I don’t know, actually,” our guide responds. “I lava you!” Despite how bad my joke is, I’m pretty sure someone chuckled. Hopefully at the joke. Standing in these caves, you feel incredibly small and rather in awe of nature’s own
Q HE U EEN AND T T RSL AVELLER
U NDAR A VOLCA NIC N ATIO N AL PARK
architecture; their sheer size dwarfs everyone, with the biggest caves stretching up to 21.2 metres in width and 10 metres in height. The caves are maze-like and yet they have a “flow” to them that makes sense; flow being the operative word, as you’re following the actual path of the molten lava that scientists estimate flowed at a temperature of around 1200°C. And it’s hard not to imagine what it must have looked and felt like at the time the volcano erupted. The walk itself is pretty easy (and I’m not particularly fit). The rocks we scramble over aren’t big. And the experience makes me feel more adventurous than I actually am. As the national park is about four hours west of Cairns, it’s a good idea to stay the night so you have time to take everything in. Accommodation options include a caravan and camping park, cabins with the necessary creature comforts, and quirky restored railway carriages which are set under the shade of bushy green trees. “Undara” is a local Aboriginal word meaning “long way”, and while Undara Volcanic National Park is certainly a decent distance from anywhere, it’s the lengthy passage of time that I can see manifested in front of me that makes a lasting impression. The cave system and its surrounds are the physical embodiment of what nature and time can do; to both destroy and create, and it’s a rather astonishing thing to see.
JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O C A IR N S.
W H AT Undara Volcanic National Park
T HREE MORE T HINGS TO DO > Wildlife at Sunset Tour Watch nature do battle as thousands of tiny but adorable bats fly out of the caves (above) to track down their next meal, and the small and harmless night tiger snakes strike out from the trees to try and catch the bats for their own dinner. Meanwhile, you can enjoy some wine with a cheese platter and check out the wildlife before heading to the caves. undara.com.au > Rosella Plains Lookout Trail If you want to get the heart pumping, sign up to the 12km Rosella Plains Lookout Track. This trail follows the route of an old telegraph line and there are still a few original telegraph poles dotted along the walk. parks.des.qld.gov.au
W HERE Mount Surprise, 300km south-west of Cairns
TOURS Book a tour with Undara Experience; undara.com.au
JE T S TA R.C O M
> Kalkani Crater Rim Walk Check out where the lava that created the caves came from, by doing the Kalkani Crater Rim selfguided walk, which takes about 1.5 hours. It’s not suitable for beginners, but if you’re reasonably fit, you will be rewarded with spectacular views. parks.des.qld.gov.au
Brad Newton
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T HE 360 O N...
SRI SIVA S UBR A M A NIYA S WA MI
Fiji
—Talk about the land that time forgot. Settle in to “Fiji time” and enjoy the Pacific island nation where the welcome is as warm as the tropical weather—
GEOGRAPHY
Water world > The Fijian archipelago is made up of about 333 islands but just two of those islands, Viti Levu and Vanua Levu, are home to 87 per cent of the population, which stands at about 900,000. Around 90 per cent of the territory is water and scuba divers and snorkellers have nicknamed Fiji the “soft coral capital of the world” because it encompasses more than 4000 square kilometres of brilliantly coloured reef gardens. Back on land, you’ll find tropical forests growing on inactive volcanoes, the highest being Mount Tomanivi.
C ULT U RE
> The largest Hindu temple in the Southern Hemisphere, Sri Siva Subramaniya Swami in the Fijian tourist hub of Nadi is just one symbol of the nation’s conflation of cultures that includes Indigenous Fijian, Indian, Chinese and European origins. Designed by Indian architect V. Ganapati Sthapati, the colourful temple opened in 1994 but throughout the former British colony – Fiji only gained independence in 1970 – you’ll notice this Christian-majority nation has many churches, which were built after visiting missionaries began converting Indigenous Fijians in the 1800s.
K AVA CEREM O N Y
Spiritual homes
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MORE TO KNOW
BAN THE BAG > The Pacific island nation plans to be completely plasticbag free this year in a bid to save marine life from the environmentally unfriendly material, which can take up to 1000 years to disintegrate.
DRINK
Steeped in tradition
LANGUAGE
How do you say hello? > Well that depends on what language you’re speaking. Fiji is one of the few countries in the world where there are three national languages. So, whether you say namaste in Fiji-Hindi, bula in Fijian or plain ol’ hello in English, you’ll be understood and warmly welcomed by the locals who have a reputation for being among the friendliest people on earth.
> Kava (also called yaqona) is an intoxicating drink that’s at the heart of all ceremonial and social events. When entering a village, custom dictates you bring a gift (sevusevu) of kava root and participate in the 3000-year-old tradition of kava drinking. Everyone sits in a circle as the root is pounded to a pulp, mixed with water then strained into a bowl called a tanoa. The village chief drinks first and when it’s your turn – clap once, gulp it down, then clap three times. When everyone has slurped this tongue-numbing drink, you’ll be welcomed with open arms.
GOOD SPORTS > All sporting roads lead to rugby union in Fiji. Its men’s team is ranked ninth in the world and the sports-mad nation has about 80,000 registered rugby players. That equates to around one in 10 people!
SUGAR CRUSH > With enough produce to fuel Willy Wonka’s factory, sugar is a huge agricultural export for Fiji. The country produced a whopping 160,204 tonnes of raw sugar in 2018 alone.
W O R D S_ R A C H EL G R AY
LO CALS SIN G BULA MALEYA TO WELC O ME VISITORS
VA N UA LEV U ISL A ND
KENZAN
AUTHENTIC JAPANESE DINING
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LL of FAME HA •
2
EXCELLENCE
018 • 2
CERTIFICATE of
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Kenzan Japanese Collins Place, 45 Collins Street, Melbourne +61 (03) 9654 8933 | kenzan.com.au
2015 • 20 1
Visit Kenzan Japanese restaurant for some of the freshest sushi and sashimi dishes in Melbourne, along with daily changing à la carte dishes and surprising specials. The restaurant has been in its current CBD location for 38 years, and is the most awarded Japanese restaurant in Melbourne. Be welcomed by friendly staff for an authentic Japanese dining experience.
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the cut > THE BEST OF WHERE TO EAT, DRINK AND PL AY
H O BAL B A RIT PPA AGE
00793 2 BR ISBA NE
PA G E
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> In 1928, after nearly 84 hours of flying time, Charles Kingsford Smith landed in Brisbane after the first trans-Pacific flight.
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> On Bali’s New Year, Nyepi (aka “Silent Day”), all shops and even the airport are closed and the roads are eerily deserted.
SY D NE Y
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> The city’s famous Opera House is cooled using harbour sea water circulating through pipes 35 kilometres long.
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Hobart
—With its European culinary influences, sensational produce and laidback vibe, the capital city of Tasmania is in a class of its own. Stephanie Williams eats her way around her home town—
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TEMPLO
> FRANKLIN.
gourmet restaurants
> FICO. Fico’s head chefs and owners, Italian Federica Andrisani and Hobartian Oskar Rossi, met in Italy six years ago. Since then, they’ve combined their sense of culture and fun at Fico. The fishmongers, farmers and market stalls of Hobart influence the menu of pasta, risotto, fish and meats and the wine list is an exciting journey through the best of Europe and Tasmania. The open space feels whimsical yet special – nab a seat at the bar to enjoy the kitchen view too. ficofico.net
Jesse Hunniford, Rosie Hastie, Osborne Images
> TEMPLO. Ask a local where their favourite restaurant is and this relaxed establishment will likely make the cut. The 20-seater is in the back streets away from the action but always pulls a crowd. Chef Matt Breen creates deceptively simple dishes with an Italian bent, paired with a Tasmanian, natural-leaning wine list. Matt’s handmade pasta, which changes daily, is a must. This is seriously good food. templo.com.au
> ALØFT. E U R O S TA R If you like your dinner to turn into late-night drinks, grab a table at Euro-style bistro Ettie’s, housed in one of Hobart’s oldest buildings. etties.com.au
> FARO. While most people go to Mona for the art, a few smart people team it with lunch or dinner at the museum’s restaurant. There’s a menu of share plates such as pork belly, scallop and apple or smoked whisky and miso lamb ribs by executive chef Vince Trim and some interesting cocktails, including a black margarita garnished with a frozen feral pig’s eyeball. The space, with its high ceilings, slick marble surfaces and velvet furniture, is also home to four artworks by James Turrell: take them in over lunch. mona.net.au
Housed in an old Ford showroom, this brutally modern space, with concrete slabs softened with timbers and natural textiles, is at the pointy end of the Tassie food scene. The menu revolves around a love of fine produce and a 10-tonne woodfired Scotch oven, cooking up everything from baked fish and slow-cooked lamb to fine desserts. franklinhobart.com.au
E T TIE’S
The large windows overlooking the water from the very top of Brooke Street Pier set the scene. Choose from the delicately pan-Asian à la carte menu with dishes like kingfish sashimi and drunken chicken wing or hand yourself over to chef and owner Christian Ryan for one of the banquet options. Take a seat at the bar and enjoy the show in the kitchen. aloftrestaurant.com
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> ODDFELLOWS BAR AND EATERY. Co-owner Chloe Proud’s hospitality roots run deep in Hobart, having launched a number of successful products and cafés such as the Tasmanian Juice Press and Vita. With fellow co-owner Niall Maurici (Charles Oates Distilling), her attention has turned to this light and dreamy instagrammable space in the city serving up Middle Easterninspired food alongside a crafty drinks menu. They’re committed to closing the loop on their food, with quality scraps being repurposed in creative ways, such as in cordials and for composting. oddfellowshobart.com
> ILHA. MasterChef 2018 contestant Sarah Clare recently opened this modern Australian restaurant with South American influences in Cygnet, 50 minutes south of Hobart. The surrounding Huon Valley provides fodder for the succinct but adventurous tapas menu – think alpaca tartare, wallaby pinchos and a ceviche of the day. fb.me/ILHACygnet
ODDFELLO WS BAR A ND EATERY
hotspots > LITTLE LOTUS CAFE. Tucked down a city back street, this cosy café is a timely and welcome addition to the scene, with a focus on plant-based vegetarian and vegan food. The menu uses mostly organic and local produce, and is open for breakfast, lunch and delicious sweet treats. Food intolerances are well catered for on the creative menu, such as house-made vegan fetta on toast or barbecued jackfruit tortillas. fb.me/littlelotuscafe
> SUNBEAR. In a nod to its heritage as The Teddy Bear Shop, Sunbear is an inviting city café, serving Allpress Espresso coffee and local Pigeon Whole Bakers bread. Owner Brooke Holtz has collected the crockery and furniture from around Hobart, which makes for a homely feel. Don’t leave without trying the chai cake, which has the added appeal of being vegan. sunbearhobart.com.au
> BOODLE BEASLEY. It might be quite new, but the North Hobart bar feels like an old favourite. With an urban feel (think exposed brick walls), it’s the place you head to for a cocktail as the sun goes down, or linger longer for dinner with substantial snacks such as fried mozzarella sticks and tempura prawns, and an extensive burger, bao, salad and congee menu. Regular craft beer tap takeovers and their own brew mean beer lovers are well catered for. fb.me/boodlebeasley
COMING BACK Look out for Sisterhood in Sandy Bay as they plan to reopen after devastating flooding. Even while closed, they’re being nominated for interior design awards! sisterhoodhobart.com
Laura Tilley
new
HOBART
cool SONNY
T HE GL AS S H O USE
wine bars > LUCINDA. Afternoon or after dark, Lucinda feels like you’ve wandered into a fun little house party and the host happens to be serving up the best of Tassie produce. The drinks list pulls together the best of the natural wine world, with a rotating menu of vino and beer options. Pull up a seat and stay a while, or have a quick snack such as ham hock terrine with fresh local radishes while waiting for your table at big sister restaurant Dier Makr. 123 Collins Street
Chris Crerar
> PABLO’S COCKTAILS & DREAMS. If the name doesn’t hook you in, then the free live jazz and speakeasy atmosphere will. Nestled in a historic sandstone building, in the basement of an Indian restaurant (yes, you can order snacks from there), Pablo’s is the perfect spot to imbibe and listen to talented local musicians. 101 Harrington Street
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NEXT LEVEL Pop into Evolve Spirits Bar at MACq 01 Hotel on the waterfront
> THE DEN. This Salamanca Place establishment has a seriously stylish fitout of timber and luxe leather. Their menu is dedicated to Tasmanian tastes, with clever cocktails (don’t miss the Granny Smith infused vodka) and showcases local wines, alongside share plates of Huon salmon skewers and local pork belly, baos and salads. The brave can sit alfresco by the fire pits all-year round, or stay toasty in one of the cosy spaces inside. theden.com.au
for an extensive range of Tasmanian whiskies and gins. evolvespiritsbar.com.au
> SONNY. Chef Matt Breen and owner Chris Chapple have branched out from Templo and opened this walk-in only, 18-seater in the heart of the city. The drinks list is heavy on interesting and natural wines and prosciutto is theatrically shaved to order at the bar – part of a tight list of snacks with enough options to make a meal. While bar manager Alister Roberston provides entertaining company, vinyl records bring the party. sonny.com.au
> THE GLASS HOUSE. The view from the Brooke Street Pier bar/restaurant is superb at any hour. By day, watch the Mona ferries and Antarctic ships while enjoying a few sophisticated cocktails, and gaze at the stars of the southern sky at night. Each item on chef David Ball’s seasonally responsive menu, featuring ingredients such as Cape Grim beef cheek, purple garlic and pink eye potatoes, tells a Tassie story – that of farmers, fishers and makers. theglass.house
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> OSTERIA.
> THE AGRARIAN KITCHEN EATERY.
Co-founders Rodney Dunn and Severine Demanet opened the Eatery in an ex-mental asylum in the lush Derwent Valley. Most produce is grown or raised on their farm (where their much-loved cooking school is) and served with minimal but skilled intervention. Be sure to order the potato cakes – simple slices of Tassie spuds in a crunchy sourdough batter. Open for lunch Thursday to Monday. theagrariankitchen.com
> FAT PIG FARM.
APPLE SHED
S H E’L L B E A P P L E S Don’t miss Willie Smith’s Apple Shed, where you can match your lunch to their range of organic ciders, in a big old timber shed. williesmiths.com.au
Matthew Evans (of Gourmet Farmer fame) and partner Sadie Chrestman throw open their Huon Valley farm gates at least once a week for lovely long lunches, punctuated with a farm tour to meet the Wessex Saddleback pigs and wander the extensive kitchen garden. Pork is the star of the menu, supported by other ingredients sourced from the farm, prepared by Matthew’s team in theatrical style in the open kitchen. fatpig.farm
JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O H O B A R T.
> HARVEST AND LIGHT. If you love pickles with your pickles, then this picklery (yes, really!), 60 kilometres south of Hobart at Geeveston, has you covered. There is an array of pickles, preserves, jams and chutneys and owner Cassy Faux’s art lines the walls. Order a gluten-free platter to enjoy local cheese, meats and pickles with a Tassie beverage. harvestandlight.com.au
> PEPPERMINT BAY HOTEL. The journey to lunch at the architecturally designed venue, overlooking the D'Entrecasteaux Channel and Bruny Island, is the perfect appetiser. Take a cruise from Brooke Street Pier in the CBD or enjoy the winding country drive. Produce is grown on site or gathered from local producers in the lush paddocks nearby. House-made ingredients just add to the appeal. peppermintbay.com.au JE T S TA R.C O M
Samuel Shelley, Jarrad Seng
country dining
Stefano Lubiana adopts a biodynamic approach to winemaking (so good in fact, he’s won best international biodynamic wine three times). Thus it’s no surprise that the same care is taken in the cellar door restaurant. Like a little slice of Italy on the approach to the Derwent Valley, expect hyper-local produce such as Long Name Farm pork belly with the most incredible crackling. slw.com.au
DISCOVER A HIDDEN ALLEY CONCEALING A BUSTLING ASIAN HAWKER MARKET From Singapore to Japan, China to Vietnam, you'll find hundreds of authentic dishes to choose from at Australia's favourite outdoor street-food market. Dine under a canopy of lanterns, shrouded in street art. There's something for everyone.
Photo by Tomas Meleg Imagery
Open daily from 11am, with free BYO and WiFi. Continue your adventure at Spice Alley.
spicealley.com.au
Kensington Street, Chippendale is just a five minute walk from Central Station.
#spicealley
@spicealleysydney
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UT H APPY THHE O UCRS
Brisbane
—The Queensland capital’s buzzing bar scene runs the gamut from classy cocktail joints to quirky brewpubs, and many offer deals that will leave a bit of change in your pocket. Local Matt Shea spills on the city’s hotspots—
SN ACK M A N
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GER ARD’S BAR
This slick, moody bar is run by brothers Cameron and Jordan Votan, best known for their phenomenally popular Happy Boy restaurant next door. It’s all about cocktails and small-producer European wines here, and the drinks are paired with regional Chinese small plates. Go Tuesdays and Wednesdays before 6.30pm for half-price cocktails. D O N ’ T M I S S : Tommy’s Margarita, made with Oaxacan mezcal and best enjoyed under the jacaranda trees. snack-man.com
> GERARD’S BAR Located just off hifalutin James Street, this watering hole draws Brisbane’s bright young things like bees to blossoms. It could be for the slick table service and friendly atmosphere, or the fact that it’s the sister venue of the celebrated Gerard’s Bistro, just across the car park, providing first-class bar food. From Monday to Friday they run an aperitivo hour, slinging $7 house wines and Asahi Super Dry, and $8 Aperol spritzes 4pm-7pm. D O N ’ T M I S S : The beef, cheddar and pickle burger, an unsung contender for Brisbane’s best burger. gerardsbar.com.au
S UPER W H AT N OT
> SNACK MAN
> SUPER WHATNOT
> ALBA BAR & DELICATESSEN
The award-winning tiered interior of this Brisbane stalwart makes it one of the most charismatic drinking dens in the city, particularly when a DJ is crate-digging through some classic R&B. The party starts each day from 3pm-6pm with schooners of Mismatch tap beer and glasses of Radio Boka tempranillo and Little Angel sauvignon blanc all going for $7 each. Grab a seat upstairs overlooking the main bar – it’s perfect for people-watching – or time your visit with Super Whatnot’s regular Pocketmoth Records events, where DJs spin the latest wax to visual artist Madeline Holt’s mesmerising projections. D O N ’ T M I S S : The formidable Super Reuben sandwich, which is built on brisket pastrami. superwhatnot.com
Seasoned bartender and former MasterChef contestant Jamie Fleming opened this New York-inspired pinchos bar inside a brick storehouse in Brisbane’s oldest laneway last year, serving wine, sherry, beer and Spanish-style small plates to the CBD’s hip crowd. On Mondays, the bar’s hip-hop soundtrack switches to the Wu-Tang Clan for their “Wu-Tang Clans Ain’t Nuthin to Shuck With” night – expect $6 classic cans of beer such as Emu Export and West End lager, and $10 bowls of South Australian clams, from 5pm. D O N ’ T M I S S : The seafood-focused menu including croquettes, housesalted cod and octopus. albabar.com.au
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BR ISBA NE
> BALLISTIC BEER CO WEST END
> FIUME From its killer rooftop views of the Brisbane River towards the city and the almighty Story Bridge that sits above, to a menu of Italianinfluenced bar snacks, there’s a lot to love about this bar at The Fantauzzo hotel. But it’s the drinks that the crowds come for – a well-curated mix of shared cocktails, spritzes and European-style wines. Wednesday through Friday at 4pm-6pm the bar runs an apertivo hour with $18 nabbing you an Aperol spritz with a plate of arancini or eggplant fries. D O N ’ T M I S S : The unrivalled views of the city. artserieshotels.com.au
BLU TE’S BAR
With the award-winning craft brewer opening a taproom in inner-suburban West End, you no longer need travel to the southern suburb of Salisbury to enjoy their beers. Hit the hideaway on Wednesdays when barkeeps pour the brewer’s core lager, ale, IPA and table beer for $15 a jug, and the kitchen serves up double dumplings for almost half-price at $15 a plate. Return on a Thursday or Friday for a $20 burger and beer deal. D O N ’ T M I S S : The ever-changing line-up of special single hop and oaked beers. ballisticbeer.com.au
> BLUTE’S BAR “BAR E’C C O IS A GRE AT PL ACE TO SA MPLE STAR C HEF PHIL IP JO H NS O N’S ELE VATED F O O D W I T H O U T T HE ELE VATED PRICES.”
BAR E’C C O
This grungy bolthole at the heart of the Fortitude Valley entertainment precinct captures the spirit of the classic Aussie pub with its focus on live music, good beer and exceptional pub grub. Visit from 12pm-2pm and 5pm-7pm Wednesday to Sunday for $5 schooners of its rotating house beer – Young Henrys Newtowner lager and Mountain Goat Pale Ale are typical. D O N ’ T M I S S : Wednesday nights, when Blute’s flips the excellent chicken burgers for half-price. blutesbar.com
> BAR E’CCO A great way to sample star chef Philip Johnson’s elevated food without the elevated prices is with an afternoon session at its neighbouring sister bar. Expect $6 tap beers, $9 glasses of a rotating house wine, and $12 spritzes, Bellinis, Berry Mules and Espresso Martinis from 4pm-6pm daily. Take your drink with oysters freshly shucked for $1.50 a pop and you have the perfect afternoon. D O N ’ T M I S S : The delectable happy hour bug roll, served for $18 with a beer or Bellini. barecco.com
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T HE C U T
> LE AR N T HE L IN G O Don’t let the “nh” fool you. Banh mi (pronounced bun-mee) is as easy to say as it is to eat. So when you’re ready to order, sound like a local.
> W H AT IS I T? Delicious. But it’s also a classic Vietnamese sandwich that has spread from the streets of Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) and filled many a rumbling tummy around the world. Banh mi is all at once rich and aromatic, perfectly balancing the textures and flavours of its savoury fillings in a French-style baguette.
> H AVE D O U G H, W ILL E AT In Vietnamese, banh mi means “bread” and that’s where every great sandwich starts. A wonderfully crispy-on-the-outside-yet-softon-the-inside baguette is split lengthways, smeared generously with mayo, topped with pâté and layered with cold cuts of chicken or pork, crispy pickled vegetables and fresh coriander, finished off with a few dashes of seasoning sauce.
> T IME T O DINE
VIE TNAM
A N AT O M Y OF A DIS H
—As rich in flavour as it is in history, this beloved Vietnamese street food is more than your average sandwich—
> BIR T H OF T HE B U N French colonists brought their language and food to Vietnam, including their long crusty baguette, in the 19th century. Until the 1950s, locals ate bread like the French – with butter, cold cuts and cheese. Vietnamese in the south then added rice flour to make the bread fluffier, reduced the loaf size, substituted butter for mayo and swapped pricey cold cuts for pickled vegetables.
> W H O T O OK I T T O T HE W ORL D? American businessman and former refugee Lé Văn Bā. In 1980, Lé noticed Vietnamese workers at a US computer plant had little time for lunch, so he started selling takeaway banh mi from a food truck. Genius!
W O R D S _ K A I T LY N PA L M E R-A L L E N
Banh mi
Fancy a banh mi for breakfast? Go for it – the locals do. Any time is a good time and with banh mi carts lining the streets in most Vietnamese cities, you can grab one as an onthe-go meal at almost any hour.
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EXPERIEN CE
Destination sleep —With a growing number of people struggling to get adequate rest, retreats dedicated to the science of slumber are increasing in popularity. Alison Bone finally learns to perfect the art of snoozing—
I am snuggled into plump cushions on a daybed canopied in cascading white bougainvillea, dozing. Sunlight sparkles on the clear water of the swimming pool before me, and the surrounding teak forest hums with cicadas and birdsong. Am I in a dream? Not really – I’m at a sleep retreat. But for an insomniac such as myself, it is like a dream come true. My friends had all laughed, “What – you’re going to sleep for three days?” Hardly! Apart from the sneaky post-lunch nap I just awoke from, sleep retreats at Revivo Wellness Resort, Bali, are more like a sleep boot camp. Revivo’s approach to slumber goes beyond me getting a good night’s rest; it’s about understanding the nature of my sleep problems and arming me with techniques to overcome them once and for all.
With 40 per cent of Australians suffering the effects of sleeplessness, according to the Sleep Health Foundation, I am clearly not alone. We are all “wired and tired” says Revivo founder and CEO Laurie Mias, who reports that the number of people using their holiday time to work on their physical and mental wellbeing has doubled over the last five years. No surprises then that the demand for sleep retreats is also on the rise. “A sleep retreat allows people the space to unplug, reconnect with themselves and their environment and most importantly, helps them adjust their lifestyle to get optimal sleep,” Laurie explains. My arrival consultation with wellness coach, Dr Sudhin, reveals that I try too hard to sleep, which triggers a stress response that zooms me straight into high gear at 3am. The key to switching off lies in neuroplasticity – the brain’s ability to forge new neural pathways. That means changing my approach to sleep, and my lifestyle, to break this cycle. And for three days, a team of wellness coaches, therapists and attentive staff are on hand to help me do just that with my personalised schedule packed with daily yoga, hydrotherapy, fitness training, meditation sessions and spa treatments.
E XPER IEN CE
T H REE M O RE T O T RY NEED T O K N O W Sleep Well Retreat at Revivo Wellness Resort, Nusa Dua, Bali, includes three days and nights full board accommodation, wellness consultation, three classes per day, one spa treatment
> Sleep A lush hilltop sanctuary in secluded Ninh Van Bay, Vietnam, Six Senses sets the scene for a sleep program that includes advice from a sleep doctor, plus yoga nidra, holistic and oriental massage. sixsenses.com
per day, and airport transfers. revivoresorts.com
> Sleep Well Evening yoga, meditation and massage relax the mind and body at Absolute Sanctuary, a luxury wellness resort on the beautiful island of Koh Samui, Thailand. absolutesanctuary.com > “Triple S” – Sleep, Sugar, Stress Learn to break the cycle of insomnia when you discover the connection between sleep, stress and sugar at this eco retreat in the Gold Coast hinterland, Queensland. gwinganna.com
What The Fox Studio
The first morning I wake up at 4am. “I can’t even sleep on a sleep retreat!” my mind screams. It gets better though. My days are filled with gentle yin yoga and hatha yoga classes to stretch out and relax my body, and mindfulness breathing techniques to encourage deeper sleep. Hydrotherapy sessions – to ease tension in my muscles – take place alone in the steam room overlooking a forest. Late-afternoon spa sessions, including an Ayurvedic shirodhara massage where warm coconut oil is poured on my forehead to calm my mind, and aromatherapy massages are perfect for inducing sleep at night. I also find myself in a gym for the first time in my life and my fitness plan is complemented by customised meals consisting of delicious, nutritious food and drinks with evocative names such as “Heal Me Sleepy”. Ingredients include leafy green vegetables, tofu, nuts and seeds – which contain sleep-promoting magnesium, melatonin and tryptophan. I start the morning with a trio of wellness shots, including kombucha, and each day ends with soothing chamomile tea and a 20-minute mindfulness meditation alone in my suite followed by a relaxing salt bath ritual. Careful scheduling means that I barely see other guests, even in the brief interludes between activities when I lounge by the pool. On my last morning I sit in the resort’s small temple with a Balinese priest, making flower offerings to the Bali gods. He blesses me with holy water and I am filled with an overwhelming sense of gratitude. In the following weeks I become calmer, less attached to my devices, more mindful, and yes I do sleep better and for longer. It’s the holiday that just keeps on giving.
AY URVEDIC SHIR OD H AR A M AS SAGE
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Need to pack more carry-on baggage?
You can now purchase extra carry-on to bring your total weight allowance up to 14kg* Find out more at jetstar.com *Purchase an extra +7kg carry-on allowance for a total allowance of 14kg. Size restrictions apply. No item can exceed 10kg. Limited availability per flight. Not available on all routes.
T HE C U T
M Y H APPY PL ACE
Hawaii
—Comedian, actress and TV host Julia Morris reveals how she fell in love with her favourite holiday destination and what she does when she gets there (flop!)—
WORDS_ PAUL EWART
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JUL IA M ORRIS
THE CUT
What are your top tips for a first-time visitor? > Hawaii is not only made up of hundreds of islands but hundreds of different experiences. Work out what you like and do that. Sounds simple enough but I hear people complain that Waikiki is just a big shopping centre. Yes. Correct. And it’s amaaaaaazing! But it’s also so much more. Learn about the different areas and grab a car. Heading to Hawaii’s brilliant North Shore could not be further from the neon madness of Waikiki.
She’s spent the last three decades making us laugh and honing her skills as a comedian, actress and host of I’m A Celebrity... Get Me Out Of Here! Currently in the jungle for the sixth time, the TV star tells us why, when she is out of the office, Hawaii makes her happy.
You live in Melbourne, what do you love about it? > Melbourne is truly glorious. I don’t want to tell you how good it is because I want to keep it to myself. From culinary expertise to some of the best shopping in the world, and then there’s me! Melbourne has it all.
What’s the best thing about your job? > The fact that I still have a job at nearly 52 years of age. The biggest bonus is all the laughter. I am sure it has given me extra facial lines but I don’t mind.
What are your top picks for visitors to the city? > I want to say – please don’t come here for the awesome food, theatre, comedy, fashion and coffee. But if I had to pick a fave, it would be the funky Ilona Staller. I also love Chocolate Buddha, a Japanese dining hall that’s great for the kids.
What’s a typical day like when you’re there? > Normally by the time I’m on holiday, I’m so tired I just want to flop on a lounger! Then I’m ready to get a bit more involved. I like breakfast in my room, then a shower, drift to sun lounger, lunch, swim. By the afternoon (post nap) I’m dressed and ready for some retail. Evenings are for stepping out for a burger and fries on a plate bigger than my head.
Your dream destination? > Having lived around the world from Hokkaido and Sydney to London and Los Angeles, my dream destination will always be home [in Melbourne]. T H E I ’ M A C E L E BRITY... GET ME O U T H E R E ! F I N A LE AIRS SUNDAY, F E B R U A R Y 2 , 7 . 30PM ON NETWORK TEN
WAIK IK I BEAC H
Your happy place is Hawaii – what made you fall in love? > My love affair with Hawaii began a long time before my first visit in 1995 as a young actress stopping over on my way to LA. Was it because of The Brady Bunch Hawaii episode? Was it the sweeping mountain shots in Tom Selleck’s dreamy Magnum, P.I. or even Hawaii 5-0’s Steve McGarrett’s [Jack Lord] balcony turn in Waikiki? Whatever made me fall in love with the place, the good news is that it lived up to all of my expectations.
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HOW TO HOLIDAY LIKE JULIA IN HAWAII S H O PPIN G > As well as having an intriguing flea market and malls such as Ala Moana, Oahu is famed for the mega Waikele Premium Outlets, where you can buy brand names at a discount. alamoanacenter.com BE AC HES > Soak up the sun at Honolulu’s most popular beach, Waikiki, or for a more private sandy sojurn, sneak off to Kauna ‘oa Beach where the limit is 25 people (tip: get there before 9am!). portal.ehawaii.gov N O R T H S H O RE > If, while in Oahu, you need a break from Honolulu’s bustle, saddle up for a calming horseride along the shore and cool off with a big bowl of shave ice at Matsumoto’s. oahuhorsebackrides. com
T HE C U T
EL ISABE T H S TEIN/ENL IG H TENS PH OTO GR APH Y
@ MIM M AREE
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> MAPLESTORE. If you look up the definition of inner-west fashion in the style dictionary, you’ll find one word: Maplestore. This clothing retailer is cool, ethically conscious and somehow laid-back yet sharp. Denim to swimmers, trainers to tees, consider your weekend wardrobe covered. maplestore.com.au
S TREE T S T YLE
Newtown [ S Y D NE Y ]
—For the antithesis of mass-market disposable fashion, head to this inner-city suburb, home to purveyors of unique and effortless style—
> GORMAN. Step inside and say hello to a print-lover’s paradise. Fashionable and easy to wear, it’s a tried-and-tested crowd pleaser. gormanshop.com.au
> NIQUE. Creative, contemporary and still eminently wearable, come in for a metallic jacket and stay for a timeless black linen mini-dress. Or fall deeply for simple tees that are soft and fit like they should and the unisex cotton pants. nique.com.au
THE CUT
> MILK & THISTLE. This is where to head for elegant simplicity, unique prints and, like so much of Newtown’s fashion offerings, an ethical business ethos. Nirvana for those who pursue considered fashion instead of the fast variety, you will fall in love with the tiered maxi-dresses and volume-defying jumpsuits – all fully Australian made. milkandthistle.com.au
> DRAGSTAR.
< THE LOOK > NEVER FUSSY AND NEVER DULL, NEWTOWN EXUDES RELAXED COOL. ITS LEFT-OF-CENTRE LEANINGS ENCOURAGE A WARDROBE OF NEUTRAL BASICS ENLIVENED WITH BOLD POPS OF COLOUR, INSPIRED BY THE SUBURB’S MULTICULTURAL NATURE AND RETRO SENSIBILITIES.
We dare you not to fall head over cute heels with the accessories in this fashionable local institution. Earrings that will make you smile, breezy bags that do the job and retro print hats that aren’t like anything else on the street. Everything is made to last and made to love. www.dragstar.com.au
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THE ESSENTIALS.
EYES RIG H T A classic ‘60s style that’s just the perfect amount of catty. (Lyla sunglasses in beige, $89.95, locello.com.au)
TEE-RIFFIC
> THE SOCIAL OUTFIT. A registered charity and social enterprise whose mission statement is to employ and train refugees and new migrants, this change-making fashion label excels at cool and creative clothing. It’s a win-win. thesocialoutfit.org
Start with a black basic and team with the brave and bold. (J.Crew stretch crewneck tee, $59.95, davidjones.com)
@ H A NK _L IN1114
B U CKLE UP Denim? Check. Cute? Check. Comfy as? Check, check. (90s Denim Overalls in Boston Blue, $44.99, cottonon.com)
H A NDS FREE Shed the baggage for just the essentials: phone, keys, card. (Nike tech hip pack, $45, theiconic.com.au)
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the insider > JETSTAR NEWS, ENTERTAINMENT AND MAPS
EN T ERTA IN MEN T
PA G E
> Let us entertain you with a huge selection of movies, TV shows, podcasts, music videos and much more.
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M APS
PA G E
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> Consider your next holiday destination, with maps of the Jetstar network routes, including Australasia and Asia.
P UZZL ES
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> The flight time will fly by as you enjoy some mind-expanding sudoku, a crossword and even some kid-friendly jokes.
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T HE IN SIDER
PHEA AND OTHER KIDS IN READING CAMP HAVE ACCESS TO A VARIET Y OF EDUCATIONAL MATERIAL.
Jetstar news
ONE FOR THE BOOKS StarKids and World Vision are helping children access better education by supporting them with activities such as reading camp. By Kervin Mathew.
nine-year-old Phea is the eldest child in her family of five. After a week at school, Phea spends an hour every Sunday in a reading camp. For Phea, the best part of reading camp is playing with other children, singing songs and reading books. Cambodia’s most vulnerable children can’t take education for granted. However, the community is working closely with government authorities and not-for-profit agencies to improve the education system, particularly in preparing children from ages three to six for a successful transition to primary school. Reading camp gives children such as Phea an added boost by providing them with access to child-friendly spaces to practise reading outside of school to help with their spelling and basic grammar.
These camps are part of the broader literacy program being carried out by World Vision in Cambodia. Speaking with new-found confidence, Phea says, “When I first started in reading camp, I wasn’t able to read but a few months later I started being able to read little by little.” Now, Phea studies in year three and is one of the best students in her class. “My mother admires my reading and I usually rank first, second or third in my class,” she says. Besides the improvement to her reading, attending the camp gave Phea the chance to interact with her peers in a safe environment and build confidence around other children. “Before, I was so scared because I did not know anyone here. I was smaller than the others and afraid of them. But now I play with them,” says Phea, who has big dreams of becoming a doctor and a sports trainer in the future.
READING CAMPS ARE HEL D IN CHIL D-FRIENDLY SPACES.
Eam Makara
> Living in Cambodia’s Takeo province,
CHIL DREN ENJOY AT TENDING READING CAMPS.
E L D N U B NBN
A T A D D E T I M I UNL LINE + PHONE $
59
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4 G E $ 1 8 9 .9 M IN C H A R
Min Charge incl. $109.95 upfront fees + $20 prepayment. Available in serviced areas. Configured on NBN12 with typical evening speed (7pm-11pm) of 11.1Mbps. Actual speeds may vary. FTTB/N/C speeds to be confirmed when active.
T HE IN SIDER
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In-flight Entertainment —Take off into a world of entertainment – we’ve rounded up today’s most talked-about movies and TV shows, plenty of kids’ favourites, plus hit music and podcasts to keep you occupied throughout your flight— MORE THAN 60 MOVIES AND 500 TV EPISODES AVAILABLE
ONLY $13 BLOCKBUSTER MOVIES TV COMEDY AND DRAMA KIDS’ FAVOURITES HIT MUSIC PODCASTS
> NEW RELEASE MOVIES.
© 2019 Warner Bros. Ent. All Rights Reserved
The Peanut Butter Falcon
Blinded by the Light
Comedy, Drama | M A young man with Down syndrome runs away to follow his dream.
Comedy, Drama | PG In 1987, a teenager learns to live life through the music of Bruce Springsteen.
TM & © DC Comics ©2019 Warner Bros. Ent. All Rights Reserved
Joker Crime | MA15+ Arthur Fleck begins a slow descent into madness as he transforms into Joker. © 2020 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.
© 2020 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.
Terminator: Dark Fate
Jojo Rabbit
Action | MA15+ Dani is living in Mexico when a Rev-9 travels back through time to kill her.
Comedy, Drama | M Follows a lonely German boy whose world view is turned upside down.
RATINGS
© 2019 UNIVERSAL STUDIOS and Shanghai Pearl Studio Film and Television Technology Co. All Rights Reserved.
Abominable Animation | G When Yi encounters a yeti on the roof of her apartment, she embarks on a quest.
Driven Drama | MA15+ About the FBI sting operation to entrap maverick car designer John DeLorean.
G General. PG Parental guidance recommended. M Recommended for mature audiences. MA15+ Not suitable for people under 15. Under 15s must be accompanied by a parent or adult guardian.
PRE-PURCHASE IN-FLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT WHEN YOU BOOK YOUR FLIGHTS AND SAVE!
© 2020 WBEI
> NEW RELEASE MOVIES.
A Shaun the Sheep Movie: Farmageddon Animation | G Shaun and the Flock are back in another epic and hilarious journey!
> FAMILY FLICKS. © 2020 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.
Lucy in the Sky Sci-Fi Lucy is a strong woman whose determination as an astronaut takes her to space.
Ferdinand
Storks
Animation | G The tale of Ferdinand, a giant bull who prefers flowers to fighting.
Animation | PG Storks deliver babies... or at least they used to. Now they deliver packages.
Space Jam
The Ant Bully
Animation | G Michael Jordan teams up with Bugs Bunny – get ready for Space Jam!
Animation | G Lucas takes out his frustration on an ant hill. The ants shrink Lucas.
© 2020 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.
© 2020 Disney
Maleficent: Mistress of Evil Fantasy | PG Maleficent: Mistress of Evil is a sequel to the 2014 box office hit.
© 2020 WBEI
The Goldfinch
Miss Peregrine’s Home for Peculiar Children
Drama | M Theo was 13 when his mother was killed. The tragedy changes his life.
Fantasy | M When Jake discovers clues to a mystery, he uncovers a secret refuge.
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> WINNERS & NOMINEES.
© 2020 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.
© 2020 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.
© 2020 WBEI
A Star is Born (2018)
Bohemian Rhapsody
The Departed
Romance | M Musician Jackson Maine discovers – and falls in love with – struggling artist Ally.
Drama | M A celebration of Queen, their music and their lead singer Freddie Mercury.
Crime | MA15+ A hostility between the police and an Irish-American gang is primed to explode.
© 2020 WBEI
© 2020 WBEI
© 2020 WBEI
Dog Day Afternoon
Argo
Comedy | M A governor grants a reprieve to a convict if the man agrees to serve as sheriff.
Drama | M Bank robbers hold up a bank. Unfortunately, everything that could go wrong does.
Thriller | M Follows CIA operative Tony Mendez, who sets out to rescue American diplomats.
© 2020 WBEI
Blazing Saddles
> FOREIGN FILMS.
> FAVOURITE MOVIES. The Bodyguard
The Last Samurai
Drama | M When Rachel receives death threats, she hires Frank, the best bodyguard.
Action | MA15+ Nathan, hired by the Emperor of Japan, trains the country’s first army.
The King’s Letters Drama In the Joseon Dynasty, King Sejong’s goal is the invention of original letters.
> TELEVISION.
© Amazon
Hamish & Andy’s “Perfect” Holiday
Tom Clancy’s Jack Ryan
Comedy | PG It’s been five years since Hamish and Andy finished travelling the world. And now they’re back on the road in North America, where they’ll meet unique, and just-plain-crazy Americans along the way.
Drama | MA15+ Jack Ryan, a CIA analyst, is thrust into a field assignment for the first time. He soon uncovers a pattern in terrorist communication that launches him into the centre of a dangerous gambit.
© 2020 WBEI
Scooby-Doo! And Guess Who? (Season 1) Kids | G The Mystery Inc. gang face their toughest mysteries yet.
© 2020 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All rights reserved.
Kingdom of the White Wolf Lifestyle | PG Ronan Donovan travels to the High Arctic in pursuit of the legendary white wolf.
© 2020 WBEI TM & © DC Comics
© 2020 WBEI
Pennyworth
You
Detective Conan
Drama | MA15+ Follows Bruce Wayne’s butler, Alfred Pennyworth, a former British SAS soldier.
Drama | M A twenty-something uses technology to make the woman of his dreams fall in love.
Asian Conan Edogawa has a disguise that proves invaluable in his detective work.
© 2020 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All rights reserved.
© tv asahi
Legal V
Find Me a Beach House
Asian | M Featuring a female ex-attorney, Shoko, whose licence has been taken away.
Lifestyle | PG Deborah Hutton is tasked with helping Australians find the perfect beach house.
Lost Cities with Albert Lin Lifestyle Combines archaeology, visuals and exploration to make discoveries.
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> MUSIC VIDEOS.
> ALBUMS. Meghan Trainor
Urban Hymns (Extended Edition) The Verve Pitchfork called this, “The Verve’s blockbuster third album.” Features “Bitter Sweet Symphony”, “Lucky Man” and “The Drugs Don’t Work”, B-sides, unreleased live tracks, BBC sessions and a full live performance.
Three Chords & The Truth Van Morrison Truly wonderful – 14 new original compositions effortlessly encapsulate the Van Morrison sound. His sixth album in just four years is further proof that he is a creative force to be reckoned with.
> PODCASTS & RADIO.
You James Arthur The third studio record from the British X-Factor artist (“Say You Won’t Let Go”). On this album he collabs with Ty Dolla $ign and Shotty Horroh for the spry hip-pop cut “Treehouse” and there’s plenty more for fans to discover.
World War Joy The Chainsmokers The third studio album from American DJ and production duo Alex Pall and Drew Taggart includes collaborations with 5 Seconds of Summer, Amy Shark, Bebe Rexha, Lennon Stella and Blink-182.
No Filter: Mia Freedman with Amy Sheppard The Bump Pure Gold HIT Network: Carrie & Tommy Gold FM: The Christian O’Connell Breakfast Show Osher Günsberg Podcast The Hits
New Hits Various The freshest new clips from today’s biggest artists featuring Regard, Halsey, Harry Styles, Camila Cabello, Tom Walker, 5SOS, Guy Sebastian, Billie Eilish and Shawn Mendes.
00s + 10s Various Millennium hits for you to enjoy featuring Meghan Trainor, Justin Timberlake, George Ezra, Taylor Swift and more of your favourite noughties and tens music.
90s Various Tina Arena, Lauryn Hill, Santana and Rob Thomas, Ginuwine, Sophie B. Hawkins and You Am I are just some of the ‘90s music artists included in this Hit List.
80s Various Featuring awesome ‘80s clips from Billy Ocean, The Bangles, Rick Astley, John Farnham, Pointer Sisters, Billy Joel and Wham!
The Disruptive Entrepreneur: Rob Moore The Property Couch: Bryce Holdaway and Ben Kingsley HIT Network: Fifi, Fev & Byron Lady Startup: Rachel Corbett with Abigail Forsyth ChillZone
True Crime Conversations: Ivan Milat Triple M Network: The Hot Breakfast The Mentor with Mark Bouris: Elle Ferguson Adam Shand at Large Triple M Network: Kennedy Molloy Pure Gold
W HE RE W E F LY Here’s how to get around our network – have fun planning your next trip.
INTERNATIONAL. Seoul Xuzhou Hefei
Shanghai (Pudong) Osaka (Kansai)
Tokyo (Narita) Nagoya (Chubu)
Okinawa Guiyang
Taipei
Guangzhou Hanoi
Shantou/Jieyang Hong Kong Haikou
Tho Xuan Vinh Chiang Mai Dong Hoi
Da Nang Siem Reap Bangkok Phnom Penh
Yangon
Phuket Penang Medan
Hawaii (Honolulu)
Clark
Manila
Ho Chi Minh City
Phu Quoc
Kuala Lumpur
Singapore Jakarta Surabaya
Bali (Denpasar) Darwin Fiji (Nadi)
Cairns
Cook Islands (Rarotonga)
Brisbane
Gold Coast
Perth
Sydney Adelaide
Auckland
Melbourne (Tullamarine)
Wellington Christchurch
Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Jetstar Asia Operated by Jetstar Pacific Operated by Jetstar Japan
Queenstown
T HE IN SIDER
DOMESTIC VIETNAM.
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DOMESTIC JAPAN.
Hanoi Sapporo
Hai Phong Thanh Hoa Vinh
Shonai
Dong Hoi Nagoya (Chubu)
Hue Da Nang Chu Lai Pleiku
Matsuyama Osaka Fukuoka Takamatsu Nagasaki Oita Kochi Kumamoto Miyazaki Kagoshima
Quy Nhon
Tokyo (Narita) (Kansai)
Tuy Hoa Buon Ma Thuot Nha Trang Da Lat Phu Quoc
Ho Chi Minh City
Okinawa Miyako (Shimojishima)
Operated by Jetstar Pacific
Operated by Jetstar Japan
AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND.
Darwin Cairns
Townsville Hamilton Whitsunday Coast Island Mackay Sunshine Coast
Ayers Rock (Uluru)
Brisbane Gold Coast
Ballina Byron
Perth
Newcastle Busselton Margaret River
Sydney
Adelaide
Melbourne (Tullamarine)
Auckland
Melbourne (Avalon) Flights are operated by Jetstar Airways and commence 25 March 2020 (Melbourneâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Busselton Margaret River), subject to regulatory approval Operated by Jetstar Airways
Wellington
Launceston Hobart
Christchurch Queenstown
Dunedin
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QUIZ 1 The Crucible playwright, Arthur Miller, married which famous actress and model in 1956? 2 What is the name of the dish featuring oysters cooked with bacon and Worcestershire sauce? 3 Australia is the world’s sixth largest country. Name the five countries that are bigger. 4 In what part of the body do you find the metatarsals?
Across 7 Cold symptom (6) 8 Large-billed South American bird (6) 9 Former Governor-General appointed in 2008, ... Bryce (7) 10 Salad fish (4) 11 Surname of picture A (6) 13 Refer indirectly (6) 15 Formal address (6) 17 Describe graphically (6) 19 Soprano, Dame ... Sutherland (4) 21 Fascinate (7) 23 Competent (linguist) (6) 24 First name of picture B (6)
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© Lovatts Puzzles
PICTURE A
CROSSWORD
Down 1 One of a kind (6) 2 Prepare for performance (8) 3 First name of picture C (4) 4 Average (8) 5 Paralympian, ... Fearnley (4) 6 Turned (hide) into leather (6) 12 Objects on display (8) 14 Make-up item (8) 16 Curly-haired canine (6) 18 Socceroos hero, Tim ... (6) 20 Requirement (4) 22 South Australian politician, Penny ... (4)
PICTURE C
5 What film topped the worldwide box office in 2018, earning more than $2 billion? 6 Which international tennis star plays left-handed: Roger Federer, Rafael Nadal or Novak Djokovic? 7 In what year was Halley’s Comet last visible from Earth? 8 The Australian 50 cent coin has how many sides? 9 What nation’s flag is white with a solid red circle at its centre?
CROSSWORD AND PUZZLES COMPILED BY LOVATTS
10 German recording artist Lou Bega topped Australia’s ARIA singles chart in 1999 with what song? 11 Which famous fashion designer (pictured far right) held the position of creative director of Chanel and Fendi at the time of his death in February 2019? 12 In April 2019, astronomers released the first-ever image of a black hole located how many millions of light-years away: three, 23 or 53?
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13 Cinnamon is a spice that comes from what part of the cinnamon tree? 14 What is the title of the awardwinning novel featuring characters Boo Radley and Atticus Finch? 15 In which country will you find the ancient temple Angkor Wat? 16 In the additive colour system of light, used in televisions and computer monitors, is the shade violet a primary, secondary or tertiary colour?
Create words of 4 letters or more using the given letters once only, but always including the middle letter. Do not use proper names or plurals ending with S. See if you can find the 9-letter word using up all letters.
13 good
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17 Name the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s longest-running play, which has been performed in Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s West End since 1952. 18 In what year did Seoul in South Korea host the Summer Olympic Games? 19 Liz Hayes, Tracy Grimshaw and Lisa Wilkinson have all been presenters on which Australian television program? 20 Which of the following is not a type of fish species: mahi mahi, wahoo, swift or mulloway? SOLUTIONS ON PAGE 110
Find the solutions on page 110.
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There are 19 cartoon character names hidden in the grid. Search up, down, forwards, backwards and diagonally for the words. Can you find them all? AST R O B OY B ULLW INKL E DAFF Y D U CK D O N AL D EL MER F U D D FEL I X FL IN TSTO NES FOGHORN JERRY JE TS O NS MICKE Y M O U SE MIN NIE PLU TO R OA D R U N NER R O CK Y S C O O BY-D O O S CR O O G E TO M W IL E E C OYOT E
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What is the most frustrating thing for dragons on their birthday? Blowing out the candles.
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How do you discipline bad coffee? You ground it.
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What’s the best way to get a robber to leave your house? SO URCE: FU NKIDS JOKES.C O M
A deck of cards. Why was it so easy to catch who stole the frozen pizza?
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P U ZZLES
Can you spot the EIGHT DIFFERENCES between these two images? Circle whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s changed on the image below.
1 HARRY POTTER Test your knowledge with these super fun, totally awesome trivia questions.
1 What village was Harry born in? 2 What large, magical tree is known for attacking anyone that comes near it? 3 Name the three different balls used in the sport quidditch.
2 HISTORY 1 Did the Vikings travel by plane or by boat? 2 What was the first name of the famous playwright Shakespeare? 3 Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin were the first two people to do what?
3 ELEPHANTS 1 Elephants are native to which two continents? 2 Approximately how many hours a day do elephants spend eating? 3 What do elephants use to protect their skin from the sun?
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Able, Aloe, Bale, Balm, Blab, Blob, Bola, Bole, Lamb, Lame, Laze, Loam, Lobe, Loom, Male, Meal, Mole, Zeal, Amble, Blame, Blaze, Bloom, Abloom. 9-letter word: BAMBOOZLE
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QUIZ 1 Marilyn Monroe 2 Oysters Kilpatrick 3 Russia, Canada, China,
11 Karl Lagerfeld 12 53 13 The bark 14 To Kill a Mockingbird 15 Cambodia 16 Tertiary 17 The Mousetrap 18 1988 19 Today 20 Swift
the USA and Brazil
4 Feet 5 Avengers: Infinity War 6 Rafael Nadal 7 1986 8 12 9 Japan 10 “Mambo No. 5”
1 The plate of dumplings is missing. 2 There’s an extra napkin on the table. 3 The things stuck on the fridge are missing. 4 There’s an extra bowl of sauce on the table. 5 The colour of the couch is different. 6 The colour of the woman’s cardigan is different.
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7 The cushions on the couch are missing. 8 The pattern on the carpet is missing.
Harry Potter
History
Elephants
1 Godric’s Hollow
1 Boat
1 Africa and Asia
2 Whomping Willow
2 William
2 12 to 18 hours
3 Quaffle, bludger,
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golden snitch
the moon
jerstartad193381125 2019-12-04T11:37:53+11:00
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T HE IN SIDER
HIGHER. BIGGER. FASTER. LONGER. EACH ISSUE WE FOCUS ON A PL ACE PU NCHING ABOVE ITS WEIG H T
> Heads-up, trainspotters. The Shanghai Transrapid service, or Shanghai Maglev Train, connects travellers from Longyang Road station, in the city’s skyscraper-filled Pudong district, with Pudong International Airport – where Jetstar flies to in Shanghai. But blink and you might miss it, as it’s currently the fastest commercial train in the world. If you’re heading on the 30-kilometre journey, expect the whole trip to take less than eight minutes. You’ll hurtle along at a top speed of 431 kilometres per hour but the train has hit speeds beyond that, too. Before it commenced public service in January 2004, the train reached 501 kilometres per hour on testing tracks in Germany. And to put that into perspective, trains on Sydney’s Airport Link line between Central Station in the CBD and the International Airport roll in at around 40 kilometres per hour. The secret to the train’s incredible high speed is maglev (magnetic levitation) technology. The bottom of the train wraps around the track and uses powerful magnets to push the carriages upwards so they float 10 millimetres above the track. More magnets are used to stabilise the carriages, while others alter the magnetic field beneath the train to propel it forward. China is currently testing even faster prototypes that can reach up to 600 kilometres per hour, with new trains scheduled to go into commercial production in 2021. W O R D S _ K A I T LY N PA L M E R-A L L E N
SHANGHAI TRANSRAPID 431KM/H
SYDNEY TRAIN 4OKM/H
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