Jetstar Australia Magazine — FEB 2019

F EB 2 0 1 9

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Health, happiness and boot camps — Bali redefines the wellness retreat

F R EE T O TA K E H O M E

MAGAZINE

E S C A P E.

R E L A X.

R E S E T. FEB 2019

ADEL A IDE

OKINAWA

AUCKLAND

MELB O URNE

CHIANG MAI

SUNSHINE COAST

PERTH

TOKYO

Any advice does not take into account your personal needs and financial circumstances and you should consider whether it is appropriate for you.

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Australia and New Zealand Banking Group Limited (ANZ) 2018 ABN 11 005 357 522.

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Solutions like an overdraft, that enables you to withdraw money up to your approved limit when you need it, and make deposits when your business receives payments. Or vehicle and equipment finance to purchase new gear during sale periods, without the extra pressure on your working capital.

Speak to an ANZ business banker about how small changes to your cash flow could make a big difference to your business.

Speak to a business banker on 1800 801 485

FEB 2019

CONTENTS

the traveller W HERE T O G O N E X T

the checklist ALL T HE T R AVEL IN T EL YO U NEED N O W

0 1 4 T R E N D S: H O T B E A C H

CLUBS IN ASIA

The top five beach hangouts to see and be seen at this summer.

0 1 6 T R E N D S: R O M A N T I C

PLACES TO PROPOSE

Planning to pop the question?

Here are the best places to do it.

038 BALI Relax, recharge and unwind with the ultimate wellness getaway.

0 1 8 T R A V E L H A C K :

SK IN S AV IO U R S These beauty heroes will leave your skin glowing after your flight.

0 2 0 T W O S I D E S O F...

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

022 THE CHALLENGE

How hard is it to cross the street in Ho Chi Minh City? We find out.

0 2 4 T R AV EL H AC K: H IK I N G

Expert tips for setting off on your first-ever hiking expedition.

0 2 6 P O S T C A R D F R O M ...

West End, Adelaide.

028 TECH

The simple yet essential gadgets to pack before your next trip.

0 3 0 7 M Y T H S A B O U T...

Okinawa, Japan.

032 CALENDAR

NRL, Mardi Gras and flowers – what not to miss this month.

044 TOKYO How to spend 48 perfect hours in this city and still have time for tea.

004

C O N T EN T S

050 PERTH There’s plenty of kidfriendly fun to be had in Western Australia’s sunshine-filled capital.

the cut T H E BES T OF W H ERE T O E AT, D R IN K A N D PL AY

0 8 2 E A T + D R I N K : MELBO URNE

We round up the best bites from the city’s cafés and restaurants.

0 9 1 A N AT O M Y OF A DIS H

Everything you wanted to know about Cambodian dish, fish amok.

094 FOOD TRENDS

The latest and greatest culinary crazes. A flurrito? Yes, please.

0 9 6 H A P P Y H O U R :

SUNSHINE COAST

Where to stop in for a cheeky drink (or two) at a bargain price.

1 0 0 M Y P L A C E: H O N O L U L U

057

065

AUSTRALIA

AUCKLAND

Fancy a romantic weekend of wine, food and fun? Here is where to find it.

Three locals share their tips for exploring New Zealand’s City of Sails.

A jewellery designer shows off her island home across the Pacific.

102 EXPERIENCE

We get on board with the latest wellness trend, SUP yoga.

104 STREET STYLE

The coolest get-ups from Tokyo’s crazy fashion capital, Harajuku.

106 FASHION

Gear up for your next adventure with these stylish essentials.

the insider JE T S TA R N E W S, M AP S A N D EN T ER TA IN MEN T

1 1 0 JE T S TA R N E W S 1 1 3 EN T ER TA IN M EN T 122 AIRPORT TO CITY 1 2 6 W H E R E W E FLY 128 GAMES + PUZZLES 1 3 2 W H E R E’S W A L LY ?

1 3 6 H I G H E R , BI G G E R ,

F A S T E R , LO N G E R

0 74 CHIANG MAI Navigating this city with an artist’s map becomes a journey of discovery.

Cover photography

by Luke M Cameron.

Š2018 Samsonite IP Holdings S.à r.l. All Rights Reserved. Printed on 12/2018.

E DITOR I A L .

CONTRIBUTORS.

EDITOR Jacqueline Lunn DEPUTY EDITOR Sudeshna Ghosh CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jon Gregory DESIGNER Lisa Emmanuel CHIEF SUBEDITOR Nancy Merlo SUBEDITOR Kaitlyn Palmer-Allen PHOTOGRAPHIC EDITOR Amy Heycock

EDITORIAL INQUIRIES EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Rachel Gray Suite 58, 26-32 Pirrama Road, Pyrmont, NSW 2009 P (02) 8114 8944 E jetstar.editorial@mediumrarecontent.com

JUSTINE LOPEZ American freelance writer and editor Justine Lopez is based in Ho Chi Minh City.

Even though she’s lived in the city for over a year, she still finds crossing the streets there a challenge, as we find out in this issue (page 22).

MANAGING EDITOR, JETSTAR Simon Tsang

A DVERT I S I N G .

VIC & QLD ADVERTISING DIRECTOR

NATIONAL ADVERTISING MANAGER

Chris Joy | (03) 9292 3207

Amanda Atkinson | (02) 8114 8920

VIC AD MANAGER/CLIENT SERVICE

NSW SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER

Rohan Green | (03) 9292 1817

Andre Hammond-Parker | (02) 8114 7626

JETSTAR COMMERCIAL

NSW ACCOUNT MANAGER

INTEGRATION SPECIALIST

Stephanie Leon | (02) 8114 8936

Simone Elliott

NZ BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER

VIC SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER

Stuart Tovey | +64 21 711 606

Tim Maidment | (03) 9292 3218

JETSTAR ADVERTISING

VIC ACCOUNT MANAGER

SALES COORDINATOR

Angeline Gleeson | (03) 9292 2781

Emily Whelan | (02) 8114 8908

QLD & NT ACCOUNT MANAGER

VIC ADVERTISING COORDINATOR

Kasia Brzezicka | 0447 383 072

Peggy Ford | (03) 9292 3222

MEDIUM R A R E C O N T E N T A G E N C Y .

MANAGING DIRECTOR Gerard Reynolds EXECUTIVE GENERAL MANAGER Sally Wright CHIEF CONTENT OFFICER Margaret Merten DIGITAL STRATEGY DIRECTOR Karla Courtney SOCIAL STRATEGY DIRECTOR Scott Drummond CREATIVE SERVICES EDITOR Georgia Booth CREATIVE SERVICES ART DIRECTOR Philippa Moffitt FINANCE MANAGER Paul Martin, Alvin Largado

Jetstar magazine is published monthly and is complimentary to domestic and international passengers. Published for Jetstar Airways by Medium Rare Content Agency (ABN 83 169 879 921), Suite 58/26-32 Pirrama Road, Pyrmont, NSW 2009. ©2018. All rights reserved. Printed by PMP Limited. Paper fibre is from sustainably managed forests and controlled sources. No responsibility is accepted for unsolicited material. Articles express the opinions of the authors and not necessarily those of Jetstar Airways or Medium Rare Content Agency. For a copy of Medium Rare Content Agency’s Privacy Policy, please visit mediumrarecontent.com. ISSN 1443-2013.

We want you to know that at Jetstar our writers are not armchair travellers.

Any assistance we do accept from the travel industry to produce our stories does not compromise the integrity of the coverage.

For flight reservations jetstar.com For hotel bookings and holiday packages jetstar.com/hotels jetstar.com/holidays

CATHERINE MARSHALL South Africa-born, Sydneybased journalist Catherine recently celebrated 30 years writing for newspapers and magazines. In this issue, Catherine goes on a journey of discovery in Chiang Mai, guided by late artist Nancy Chandler’s maps (page 74).

LARISSA DUBECKI Melbourne-based writer Larissa Dubecki has been writing about food, drink and travel for 20 years.

“Writing this month’s Eat + Drink: Melbourne (page 82) was a great chance to share my favourite things about my favourite town,” she says.

CEO’S LE T T ER

Giving big dreams a flying start > Thank you for choosing to fly with Jetstar – it’s a pleasure to have you on board today.

As a low fares airline, we are lucky enough to see many of our customers take to the skies for the first time.

Recently, eight-year-old Beau took his first-ever flight to Cairns – and our crew made a lasting impression.

Beau loved the on-board safety briefing so much, he memorised the entire thing. After his flight, he practised it word-for-word and used his toys and household items to perform the safety demonstration for his siblings.

When our team heard about Beau’s efforts, they were so impressed they invited him to the Jetstar Training Centre for a special training session.

BEAU WI T H JE TSTAR’S K YL IE (LEF T), G UY AND FIO NA

“E VERY DAY I’M REMIN DED JU S T H O W EXCI T IN G FLY IN G C A N BE. W E’RE L U CK Y T O SEE M A N Y OF O U R C U S T O MERS TAK E T O T HE SK IES F OR T HE VERY FIRS T T IME.”

Beau was given a suitcase with his own life jacket, oxygen mask and safety card. Alongside a member of our crew, he got to use his new safety equipment to perform a safety briefing in front of his family in a simulated aircraft cabin.

I love this story. It reminds me just how exciting flying can be, especially as a kid for the first time.

While it’s clear our crew made an incredible impact, Beau’s passion to one day join Jetstar’s cabin crew made an even bigger impression on our team.

For all the first-time flyers out there – thank you for sharing this experience with us. We hope your flight today is as special for you as it was for Beau.

G ARE T H E VA N S CEO, JE T S TA R G R O U P

009

010

JE T S TAR S O CI AL

LIKE. FOLLOW. CLICK. SHARE. Get social with us and join the conversation online. < FLOAT AWAY > WHAT LIVING ON THE EDGE LOOKS LIKE AT WOOROONOORAN NATIONAL PARK, QUEENSLAND. @_SARAHLATHAM

< FISH TALES > IT'S EASY TO MAKE FRIENDS WITH THE BIG FISH AT THE GREAT BARRIER REEF. @DEWITIARA

< NATURE WALK >

jetstar.com

BEAUTIFUL BEECH FORESTS MEET THE WATERS OF THE MAKARORA RIVER AT THE BLUE POOLS TRACK IN WANAKA, NEW ZEALAND.

THE ONLINE HUB FOR ALL THE TRAVEL INSPO AND INTEL YOU NEED TO EXPLORE THE WORLD YOUR WAY.

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Viva antlerluggage.com.au

013—036

the checklist > ALL THE TRAVEL INTEL YOU NEED NOW

OK IN AWA PA G E

0 30 BAL I

PA G E

014

> The Indonesian island has one of the highest densities of spas in the world with more than 1200 wellness hubs.

H O C HI MIN H CI T Y

PA G E

022

> Think twice about crossing your fingers for good luck in Vietnam. The gesture is as rude as giving someone the finger.

A DEL A IDE

PA G E

026

> The city’s free Tindo bus (named after an Aboriginal word for “sun”) is the world’s first electric solar-powered bus.

TR AVEL TREN D S

Splash out TOP 5 BEACH CLUBS IN ASIA —South-East Asia’s beaches are idyllic on their own but add some chilled beats, grab a cocktail and you’re set for serious fun in the sun. Here are the hottest beach clubs you’ll want to see and be seen at this summer—

BL IS SED O U T GL A M

> ULU CLIFFHOUSE, BALI. Beach clubs are a dime a dozen in Bali but this lifestyle destination in picture-perfect Uluwatu takes things to the next level, not least for its stunning design. Something of a creative collective, it is home to a music studio, art gallery and concept store, as well as a stunning 25-metre infinity pool. When the tide is low, take the wooden steps down to the Indian Ocean to watch the sun dip into the turquoise water or take it all in from the suspended deck on the cliff face. The on-site restaurant serves up contemporary dishes such as red snapper tiradito with chilli and ginger, while the bar mixes a menu of creative cocktails. DJs keep the party going from 4pm until late. ulucliffhouse.com

ULU CL IFFH O USE

R U S T IC C HIC

> KAHUNA’S HOI AN BEACH CLUB, VIETNAM. The only thing on the agenda here is to chill to the max, whether it’s in the pool or under one of the beachside umbrellas. Order a Saigon beer or a Passionfruit Mojito (the trusty crowd favourites), and pair it with a Moroccan couscous salad or a plate of fish and chips so generous, it’s been nicknamed The Legend – there’s even cashless pool- and beach-side service (using wristbands that can be topped up with credit). Kahuna’s is open until 8pm on weekdays but come Saturday, it’s time for their weekly pool party with DJs spinning tunes until 10pm, tailoring the playlist to guests’ tastes. fb.me/kahunashoianbeachclub

T H E C H ECKL IS T

015

S T YLE CEN T R AL

> CAFÉ DEL MAR PATTAYA, THAILAND. Th newest outpost of the iconic Ibiza-born brand promises to stick to the winning formula of fine food, chilled music and direct beach access. Bringing those quintessentially Mediterranean vibes to Pattaya, the stylish club offers cabana lounges to soak up the sun and a swim-up bar in the 600-square-metre infinity pool.

Order a Sangria or Mojito and nibble on tapas-style share plates, pizza or sushi. The extensive menu also includes nods to the local cuisine – think Thai crab curry with betel leaves and vermicelli noodles. Come for the beach by day and stay for the international DJs spinning signature Balearic house tunes by night. cafedelmarpattaya.com

TANJO NG BEACH CLUB

F U N FA MILY T IME

> SURF AND TURF NUSA DUA BEACH, BALI. U RB A N RE T RE AT

> TANJONG BEACH CLUB, SINGAPORE. It’s effortless to switch into a slower gear under the palms at this award-winning beach club located on Sentosa island. Your only decisions will be whether to settle by the pool or on the sand, and pondering which of the club’s selection of beers – including Asahi, Corona and Little Creatures – to drink. If cocktails are more your style, try Papa Don’t Preach (it’s a lavender-infused peach bellini) or spice it up with a Flamingo Margarita (tequila blanco, homemade jalapeño syrup, strawberries and lime). The seafood-inspired menu features seasonal oysters but the truffle fries are not to be missed either.

Things get cranked up a notch on weekends with parties like Smack My Beach Up every Sunday from 2pm until late. tanjongbeachclub.com

W O R D S_ R A C H EL G R AY

SURF AND T URF N USA D UA

The kids will have a blast trying to catch a wave on the surf rider at this family-friendly beach club, while parents can relax on the daybeds. For anyone feeling active, canoeing, cycling and swimming are on offer, as well as an on-site water park.

For a well-earned rest, head to the Wave Restaurant – there are hearty fish and chips, pizza and pasta options but plenty of salads and traditional curries on the table, too. Wash it all down with a cocktail or healthy smoothie like the Surfer Tonic with pineapple, banana, mango, yoghurt and honey. surfturfbali.com

T R AVEL TREN D S

Where to pop the question AUSTRALIA’S MOST ROMANTIC PLACES TO PROPOSE —Ready for some serious engagement inspiration?

Dilvin Yasa seeks out stunning backdrops that promise to dazzle as much as the ring—

WA

NSW Golden Age Cinema and Bar, Surry Hills > Nothing screams “I’m planning to propose” quite like articulating a sudden desire to scale the Sydney Harbour Bridge as a couple. But nothing will throw your partner off the scent more than two tickets to an “advance secret screening of Bloodsport 8” at Golden Age Cinema and Bar (ourgoldenage.com.au).

Within the beautifully restored Art Deco cinema, which is available for private hire, you can play your favourite romantic movie or screen an inventive proposal you filmed earlier before getting down on one knee.

326 WEDDINGS TAKE PL ACE EVERY DAY IN AUSTR ALIA

SA

CR AWLEY ED GE B OATSHED

Crawley Edge Boatshed, Crawley > Picturesque proposal spots around Perth aren’t exactly difficult to come by but if you’re already thinking about that #shesaidyes post, there’s nowhere better to pop the question than in front of the iconic Crawley Edge Boatshed (aka the Blue Boat House).

Built in the 1930s, the building’s vibrant blue colour and seemingly endless jetty make it a popular choice among wedding photographers (and influencers, too), so you’ll have to get in early to find the ideal “Will you marry me?” spot. But fear not, you can recover from any associated selfie stick injuries with bubbly and seafood on the beach afterwards.

Mortlock Chamber, State Library of South Australia, Adelaide > Just as your proposal will one day become part of your history as a couple, the State Library of South Australia’s Mortlock Chamber – which houses over 23,000 antique books – has played a significant role in Adelaide’s history.

In keeping with the bibliophile theme, you can stage the proposal around a book too – carve out a hole within the pages of an old tome to hide the ring box and surprise your partner.

You can hire the chamber for a sitdown dinner if you want to celebrate à deux or even with friends and family afterwards (visit epicure.com.au to book).

T H E C H ECKL IS T

017

QL D Heart Reef, The Whitsundays > “Hovering above a heart-shaped coral reef in a helicopter, the question is asked, their love celebrated with a private picnic for two on a deserted beach before a dip in a pristine azure lagoon, teeming with a rainbow of tropical fish…”

No, they’re not words from a Nicholas Sparks novel, rather, a quintessentially Australian experience that lovers can enjoy if they book a scenic helicopter or seaplane flight over the Great Barrier Reef’s famous Heart Reef (check out hamiltonislandair.com for details).

NT

HEART REEF IS 60 K ILO ME TRES FR O M T HE M AINL A ND

V IC Rippon Lea House & Garden, Elsternwick > Probably the only thing sexier than romance is efficiency and those keen to kill two birds with one stone should look no further than the spectacular gardens of one of the most popular wedding venues in Melbourne: Rippon Lea House and Garden (ripponleaestate.com.au).

Home to 14 acres of picturesque gardens set against the backdrop of a grand 19th-century estate, you can pre-organise a rowboat and pop the question in the middle of the lake. Follow it up with a celebratory picnic and then (here’s the efficiency part) tour the venue to lock in a date to walk down the aisle.

$51,245 AVER AGE C OST OF AN AUSTR ALIAN WEDDING – W O W!

Satellite Island > When you want to ensure that “Yes!”, a weekend away at Satellite Island (satelliteisland.com.au) is a safe bet.

Just five minutes from the coast of Bruny Island, it’s available for exclusive hire.

In this secluded wilderness, where rugged cliffs fall into pristine waters, three romantic accommodation options are available: a stunning boathouse, luxury bell tent and summerhouse. Plus, there’s a host of activities to do – go kayaking before lighting a bonfire on the beach or take a long hike together in a place that truly feels like the end of the earth.

RIPP O N LEA ES TATE FERNERY

TA S

Bare Sand Island > This remote island 60 kilometres south-west of Darwin is not only notorious for producing some of the most spectacular tropical sunsets you are ever likely to see – it’s also famous for its nesting turtles.

Book a private charter to the island with Sea Darwin (seadarwin.com) and enjoy a late-afternoon spread before the sun dips below the horizon, the sky burns pink and the turtles begin their journey to sea as you ask that all-important question (depending on the season, you could find hatchlings scrambling to the water for the first time or adults returning to lay their eggs). Afterwards, you have the option of retiring to your private cabin aboard Sundancer NT, a luxury catamaran, or camping in a swag under a canopy of stars. It doesn’t get much more romantic than that.

01 8

T R AVEL H ACK

Saving face #3

[NINE IN-FLIGH T SKIN SAVIO URS]

—Travelling can take a toll on your skincare regime. Carry these beauty heroes on your next trip and your body will thank you later—

#6

#8

#1 Skin Republic Retinol Hydrogel Mask $1 2.9 9 Popping on a sheet face mask is a perfectly acceptable in-flight routine these days and when the mask is packed with hyaluronic acid and retinol, it will ensure you land with a hydrated glow. theskinrepublic.com.au

#5 Skinstitut Multi-active Mist

#2 Moogoo Full Cream Moisturiser $1 3.5 0 Moogoo has acquired something of a cult following with its natural healing ethos. This moisturiser is a travel-friendly take on their original Udder Cream, containing almond oil, raw coconut oil, olive squalane, aloe and milk protein. moogoo.com.au

#6 Essano Organic Rosehip

#5

#3 Lanolips 101 Ointment Multi-balm Coconutter $1 4.95 Soothe chapped lips, calm itchy patches or just moisturise all over with this luxurious multipurpose ointment. Made from all-natural lanolin, this versatile cream is good for just about anything. lanolips.com #7

WORDS_ SUDESHNA GHOSH

#4 Rodan and Fields Active

Hydration Serum $1 4 8 Serums are one of the most powerful ways to infuse nutrients into your skin. This one provides an instant hydration boost and locks it in – perfect for keeping your face feeling dewy throughout the whole flight. rodanandfields.com.au

$49

Spritz on this hydrating mist during your flight to protect your skin from the environmental stresses of flying.

With its power-packed ingredients including vitamin B3, ginseng and licorice root, it will nourish and shield the skin from free radicals. skinstitut.com

Nourishing Hand Crème $1 4.9 9 Combat dry hands in-flight with this nourishing hand cream combining rosehip oil with shea butter, jojoba and lanolin to intensively hydrate. essano.co.nz

#7 Blessed By Nature Antioxidant Soothing Eye Serum $17.95 The delicate eye area requires a little extra TLC and this serum is just the ticket. With the benefits of aloe vera, jojoba, Kakadu plum and calendula, it soothes, moisturises and refreshes to reduce the effects of travel fatigue. blessedbynature.com.au #8 Antipodes Divine Face Oil

$ 32

A few drops go a long way when they are packed with vitamins A and C and essential fatty acids from rosehip and avocado oil. Just dab on this fragrant face oil and let it work its magic. antipodesnature.com

#9 Carmex Lip Balm

$ 5.9 9

The watermelon flavour Carmex lip balm will put you in holiday mode even as it moisturises dry lips (and the SPF 15 will hold you in good stead after you land, too). carmex.com.au

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Batu Caves Venture just 15 kilometres north of the CBD and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find 272 brightly coloured steps leading to the ancient limestone Batu Caves, which shelter numerous Hindu temples and shrines.

T W O SIDES OF

Asnawi Jacq, Nick Noordijk

T H E C H ECKL IS T

K UAL A L U MP U R

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Nu Sentral Shopping Centre In the heart of bustling KL Sentral transportation hub, the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most photographed escalator leads beyond geometric walls towards eight levels of shopping paradise.

T HE C H ALLEN GE

Crossing the street in Ho Chi Minh City â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Why did the tourist cross the road in Ho Chi Minh City? Because they wanted a delicious banh mi. The crosswalks of this dynamic city are notoriously busy but Justine Lopez is determined to get to the other side smiling. Can she do it?â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

R OA D BL O CK PE O PL E 13 MILL IO N BIK ES 8 MILL IO N C A R S 70 0,0 0 0

T H E C H ECKL IS T

B UI V IEN S T REE T “The Bustling Backpacker Street” > I emerge from the relatively quiet lane and find myself smack-bang in the middle of Bui Vien Street (the party-centric backpacker area). Neon signs flash, music thumps from clubs and oversized SUVs barrel down the narrow road. It’s 5pm and rush hour is in full swing. The sidewalk is crowded with parked motorbikes, banh mi carts and tourists drinking beer on plastic chairs. I have no choice but to walk in the street where SUVs come within inches of grazing me. I’m stuck behind a Vietnamese man selling dried squid, which hangs on a rack on the back of his motorbike. The smell is pungent. The moment I see a break in traffic I dart across the road.

Busy factor Biggest obstacle Dealing with sensory overload while trying to remember to not get hit.

H EM 1 20 T R A N H U N G DAO “The Tranquil Alleyway” > If I’m going to survive and thrive in Ho Chi Minh City, I need to be able to cross the road. It’s not easy but sometimes there are steaming bowls of pho or iced Vietnamese coffee drinks on the other side of the bitumen and I want them. I have decided it’s best to start small. After all, you can’t conquer a marathon without some training runs. “This one will be easy”, I think, as I enter one of Ho Chi Minh City’s mazelike hems (alleys). I can easily touch the buildings on both sides of this alley with my outstretched arms, so I presume I’m safe from motorbikes here. I’m wrong.

I don’t make it more than 10 paces before a man on a scooter zips down the alley. I plaster myself flat against a wall as his bike emits a piercingly loud honk and speeds away.

Busy factor Biggest obstacle Squeezing past motorbikes and women pushing banh mi carts.

N G U YEN T HI N G HI A “The Chaotic Intersection” > I’ve reached the end of Bui Vien and that’s when I see it – one of those wild intersections that gives Ho Chi Minh City its chaotic-crossing reputation. The thoroughfare is a rushing river of motorbikes, cars and buses that weave wildly between lanes with no apparent rhyme or reason. As I prepare to cross the street, the American tourists next to me are taking videos of the spectacle with their phones. There are crosswalks at the intersection but as the pedestrian light switches from red to green, the traffic doesn’t really stop. The young Vietnamese man next to me steps off the sidewalk.

I trail him so closely I might as well be clutching his shoulders. A stream of motorbikes is headed towards us. I mimic his movements, walking slowly but without hesitation and the vehicles magically part around us.

Busy factor Biggest obstacle Motorbikes come from every direction, even from the sidewalk.

023

A D O G’S L I F E Keep an eye out for locals driving with their dogs impressively balanced on the footrest of their scooters. I spotted a man driving with a huge husky straddling a pit bull.

N G U YEN H U E S T REE T “The Walking Street” > As I make my way from the chaotic Bui Vien area towards the Saigon River, the madness subsides and the roads become less clogged and more pedestrian friendly. I step onto Nguyen Hue Street – one of the only streets in the city that is completely traffic-free.

Busy factor Biggest obstacle Getting in the way of Vietnamese teens snapping selfies.

DUONG TON DUC THANG “The Terrifying River Street” > The traffic along the riverfront is dense, fast moving and never lets up. That’s probably because there’s not a crosswalk or a traffic light in sight. The mission is to cross the street and get to the riverside – but it’s daunting. I’ve learned that in Vietnam, as long as I move slowly, make no sudden movements and put my trust in the drivers, traffic will go around me. But this street is a different beast. Vehicles are packed so closely together I wonder how I can even fit between them.

I step foolhardily in front of an oncoming motorbike, which lurches to a stop and honks at me. I let my nerves take hold and start walking rapidly and recklessly.

I’ve completely disrupted the flow of traffic. I scamper to a barrier in the middle of the road to regain my composure. For the remaining stretch, I abide by the rules and before I know it, I’m walking on a blissfully motorbike-free path along the breezy Saigon River.

Busy factor Biggest obstacle Avoiding buses.

The motorbikes will go around you but the buses will not.

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Take a hike

—Keen on tackling a trek but don’t know how to prepare? Environmental explorer Tim Jarvis has all the pro tips to flip you from “no” to “go”—

A D DI T I O N A L W O R D S _ R A C H EL G R AY

> Get fit. Slip on your sneakers, put the treadmill on an incline and just start walking or step on a stair climber to level-up your fitness and flex those hiking muscles. Get outside in the great outdoors and maybe even beat bumper-to-bumper peak hour traffic by walking or cycling to work. > Start small. Most cities have walking routes you can try closer to home so do some research. The key is to find a walk that is interesting and makes you forget about the fact you’re training to get fitter. > Dress right. Layer your clothes so you can adjust them to suit your body temperature as you work up a sweat; you don’t want to be too hot or cold.

Make sure you have good footwear and your shoes are broken in before setting off on a long walk.

> Keep in touch. Tell someone where you’re going and what time you expect to get back if you’re heading to a remote track. > Eat like a hiker. I eat nuts and dried fruit as snacks because they give you energy over a longer period.

For longer hikes, make sure you take enough carbohydrates such as noodles or pasta. Include protein and isotonic drinks that contain sugar and salt in the right proportions to prevent dehydration. > Remember. As Irish explorer Ernest Shackleton once said, “Take only photographs, leave only footprints.”

Tim Jarvis is an ambassador for adventure brand Kathmandu.

H O W TO GET PSYCHED UP! > Think about what you have done to motivate yourself in the past when attempting to do something challenging and use those same mind games when you find yourself getting tired along the way. > Break the total journey down into manageable pieces and motivate yourself through them, one at a time. > Hope for the best conditions but plan for the worst.

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WEST END, ADEL AIDE 1 MOD This science and tech museum may be geared towards young adults but it makes for a fun and interactive pit stop that anyone can enjoy. The exhibitions change every six months – currently, it’s Waging Peace, a fascinating exploration of what peace means. mod.org.au 2 CREATIVE SPACES Parts of the West End are now ground-zero for Adelaide’s creative community. There’s the well-established Jam Factory (jamfactory.com.au), a gallery-showroom hybrid showcasing ceramics, jewellery and more. Within a block, you’ll find Ace Open (aceopen.art), the Kerry Packer Civic Gallery (unisa.edu.au), the Samstag Museum of Art (unisa.edu.au/ samstagmuseum) and SASA Gallery (unisa.edu.au/sasagallery), all of which host contemporary exhibitions.

ILL U S T R AT IO N _ G ER G Ő GIL IC ZE

3 IMPRINTS BOOKSELLERS Literary buffs will adore this temple of all things bookish.

Bestsellers, new releases and a range of indie tomes line the shelves and the whole place smells of freshly printed pages.

It’s arguably Adelaide’s best independent bookstore. imprints.com.au

—This once-gritty side of town has emerged as a hub of cool laneway bars, diverse dining and edgy galleries. Jo McKay takes a closer look at the best of this lively neighbourhood—

4 SUNNY’S If dancing on the tabletops after devouring a few pizzas sounds like fun, then Sunny’s is for you. If not, come a little earlier in the evening because the pizzas are sensational, even without the dancing. sunnys.pizza 5 TWENTY FIFTY-TWO Clothes, skateboards, shoes and accessories – they have it all at this concept store hidden in an unassuming basement on Hindley Street. The boutique stocks its own brand, as well homegrown and international labels. They also occasionally host an online radio station, 2052, from the shop. twentyfiftytwo.com.au 6 THE NOBLE GENTLEMAN This slick wine bar in Topham Mall features a different South Australian winery each month – but the list is chock-full of interstate and international drops, too. The service is warm and there’s a range of share plates and platters perfect for pairing with a bottle of vino. noblegentleman.com.au

7 MALT AND JUNIPER It’s hard to choose between the cool bars that line Peel Street – it’s practically begging for a cocktail crawl – but if any one bar had to be at the top of your list, make it Malt and Juniper. By day, this joint serves up delicious pastries and strong coffees. When the sun goes down, it morphs into one of the city’s hippest gin and whisky dens. fb.me/maltandjuniper 8 RED OCTOBER This eatery, run by Moscowborn couple Roman Tazhdynov and Marina Tazhdynova, does a grand job of introducing the locals to modern Russian cuisine. Feast on carrot pâté with potato chips, house-made egg noodles with champagne cream or coffee-roasted duck with duck-fat potatoes. And after you’ve had the Russian honeycake for dessert, head downstairs to the basement speak-easy, Suzie Wong. redoctober.bar

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TEC H N OL O GY

Low-fi = high-impact —Selfie sticks, protective cases, compact cameras – sometimes the best tech solutions go back to basics—

> KIDS HEADPHONES $ 69.95 Parents of little travellers will appreciate these kid-size headphones for keeping the noise levels down.

The JBL JR300BT Kids’ Wireless On-ear Headphones (in pink, teal, blue) are volume-limited to 85 decibels to protect the ears of young, sensitive entertainment fans. With a bluetooth connection that lasts up to 12 hours, it avoids cable tangles and breaks that can reduce any happy traveller to tears. jbl.com.au

> S M A R T T R AVEL W ALLE T $159

You don’t have to sacrifice style for convenience when using a passport wallet. The Bellroy Travel Wallet (available in black, navy, cocoa or caramel) is large enough to store a passport and boarding passes. Crafted from environmentally certified leather, it’s slimline, yet has multiple card slots, a micro travel pen, a slot for a travel SIM card and a hidden pocket for storing spare money. bellroy.com

W O R D S _ R O S A LY N PA G E

> T EC H P O U C H $69

A tech pouch will keep your cables and small gadgets together and your sense of sanity intact.

The Crumpler Resident pouch (available in black or anthracite) is water-resistant and has two large storage slots for storing a power bank, portable drive or power adapter, four small slots for cables and a small pocket for other items. crumpler.com.au

T EC H F O R $ 4 0 O R LES S > USB CHARGER

> C O MPAC T C A MER A $649

The new breed of lightweight, compact cameras is just the thing if you don’t fancy using a smartphone for your travel photos. The Sony WX800 boasts a range from 24mm wide-angle to 720mm super-telephoto, plus you can zero in on the object of your photo with its touch-sensitive focus.

There’s a 180-degree tiltable screen for taking group shots and the add-on Shooting Grip (VCT-SGR1) for $149 might appeal for selfies and videos. sony.com.au

> SELFIE STICK

> W AT ERPR O OF C A SE FR O M $10 9.95

Aquatic travel adventures won’t pose a problem with a waterproof smartphone case like the Lifeproof Fre. Suitable for the Samsung Galaxy S6 to S9 and Apple iPhone 5 to Xs Max, the case comes in a range of colours and is submersible to two metres for an hour.

It promises military-grade shock protection for drops up to two metres and will keep ports, speakers and microphones shielded from dirt, debris and dust while you’re on the go. lifeproof.com.au

$ 59.95 The Cygnett GoStick goes a step further from being a regular selfie stick to also including a tripod.

The GoStick can extend up to 62 centimetres, works with Apple and Android phones and has a detachable bluetooth camera control for hands-free snapping. If you are adventurous, it’s compatible with GoPro cameras, too. cygnett.com

$34.99

Forget the days of charging only one device at a time. Whether you’re at home or away, you can charge up to four devices with the Korjo USB Power Hub x4.

The charger comes bundled with four interchangeable plugs for Australia and New Zealand as well as the US, UK and Europe.

It can charge cameras, consoles and Android or Apple devices.

Just remember to pack your cords. korjo.com.au

> FLASH DRIVE

FROM $20

A USB storage device is still an easy way to carry and share files while travelling without requiring internet access and logins for the cloud. The Kingston DataTraveler SE9 G2 (available in 16, 32, 64 and 128 gigabyte sizes) works with Windows and Mac computers for speedy USB 3.0 file transfers and is so compact, it fits on a key ring. kingston.com

> UNIVERSAL CABLE

$39.95

One cord to rule all the devices is possible with the Belkin Universal Cable, which charges and syncs Apple iPhones and iPads using a Lightning connector and Android phones and other devices with the USB or micro-USB plug. It’s Apple-certified, promises fast transfer and charging and at 1.2 metres, should go the distance from outlet to table. belkin.com.au

> LUGGAGE SCALES

$29.95

Don’t get caught out going over the baggage weight limit. Instead, have a luggage scale like the Go Travel Digi Scale on hand, which can measure weights up to 40 kilograms. The compact scale flashes to confirm weight readings and displays results for five seconds, giving time to read results before panicking about all the extra shopping. go-travelproducts.com

7 M Y T H S AB O U T...

OKINAWA —Sun-soaked, relaxed and with its own unique cuisine, the southernmost prefecture of Japan has some surprises in store, says Belinda Luksic—

MYTH #1 Okinawa is one island > Dubbed the “Hawaii of Japan”, the eponymous main island is just one of 160 that make up the Okinawa prefecture – an archipelago trailing like a strand of pearls towards Taiwan. Some of the islands are simply a slip of untouched white sand lapped by azure seas, while others are scattered with luxury resorts at the edge of pristine dive sites. Others, still, like the far-flung Yaeyama Islands, are thick with jungle, lush mangrove swamps, rivers and waterfalls.

MYTH #3

MYTH #2

Everyone drinks sake > The favoured local drink is awamori – which, like sake, contains rice as its main ingredient but that’s where the similarities end. Distilled, not brewed, the local spirit packs a punch, with an alcoholic content ranging from 30 to 43 per cent. Awamori distilleries are scattered throughout the islands, including three on Okinawa, where you can take a tour to learn how the drink is made, then sample a glass or three. Proceed with caution.

Okinawa was always part of Japan > Until Okinawa’s collapse to Japan in 1609, the independent Ryukyu Kingdom governed the islands. You can get an insight into its imperial past at Shuri Castle near capital Naha or at matsuri festivals like Naha Great Tug-of-War Festival held in October.

More recently, it was the site of one of the bloodiest campaigns of World War II – and to this day, US Forces (Japan), still have a large presence on the islands.

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MYTH #4 It’s hard to get around > Forget about rattling around in ancient buses and taxis – the roads are left-hand drive (like Australia and New Zealand) and most rental cars are fitted with GPS systems. On the larger islands, where attractions are spread out and bus services are intermittent, a hire car is the best way to explore. It’s just as easy to island hop, with regular ferry services connecting the three main islands of Okinawa, Miyako and Ishigaki to smaller neighbouring islands.

MYTH #5

MYTH #6 It’s sushi central > Okinawa is a melting pot of cultures and cuisines. You’re less likely to find sushi on the menu and more likely to find pork, thanks to the Chinese influence. You’ll find soba noodles made with wheat, not buckwheat, and taco rice, credited to the Americans. Famed as an area where people live longer than average, a diet rich in tofu, seaweed and yam is said to contribute to the longevity of the locals. Don’t miss the sea grapes – a local seaweed delicacy that pops in the mouth – or the congee-style porridge served at breakfast.

Winter is a no-go > While the rest of Japan shivers through winter, it can still reach a tropical 20°C here in the colder months. The ocean temperatures are just as inviting and visibility in the water is crystal clear. Despite being the off-season – and the mad looks you’ll get from rugged up locals – it is possible to hire snorkel gear and find dive tour operators who’ll take you out in the ocean (weather permitting). The bonus?

You won’t battle the holiday crowds.

MYTH #7 Bright lights and big resorts abound > With comparisons to Hawaii, you’d be forgiven for picturing an endless coastline of sprawling resorts. But last year, IriomoteIshigaki National Park, located in the Yaeyama Islands, was named an International Dark Sky Park, recognised for its lack of man-made light pollution. Ishigaki is one of the best places in the world to star gaze – with up to 84 constellations visible on a clear night.

AND 3 TRUTHS Cherry blossom season starts here > Darker in colour than the mainland flowers, the first cherry blossoms unfurl their petals mid-January on Okinawa – several months ahead of Tokyo and Kyoto. Witness the spectacle at Mount Yae and Nakijin Castle, where, for two weeks each year, the hillside is transformed into a riot of pink blooms.

It is karate’s birthplace > It might have spread like wildfire but karate was practised here long before being annexed by Japan in 1879 – and the island remains the best place to learn the combat art.

At Naha’s Karate Kaikan (karatekaikan.jp), you can watch tournaments as athletes gear up for the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo.

It’s home to Japan’s best dive sites > Okinawa, where you’ll find Japan’s largest reef, delivers spectacular diving throughout the islands. You can spot everything from manta rays in Ishigaki to underwater caves near Miyako and hammerhead sharks off Yonaguni. Even beginners can get in on the action on a beach dive off Okinawa Island.

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PUT IT IN THE DIARY —No matter where you are this February, there’s plenty to enjoy—

SA. Arts and culture: Adelaide Fringe 15 February to 17 March Various venues adelaidefringe.com.au

VIC. Sport: 2019 NRL All-Stars 15 February AAMI Park, Melbourne ticketek.com.au Concert: Arctic Monkeys 26-27 February Rod Laver Arena, Melbourne arcticmonkeys.com

THAILAND.

NEW ZEALAND.

Culture: Chiang Mai Flower Festival 1-3 February Buak Haad Public Park, Chiang Mai chiangmaitravel hub.com/events

Concert: Phil Collins 4 February Christchurch Stadium philcollins.com

QLD. I T'S A D AT E

WA. Concert: Eminem 27 February Optus Stadium, Perth eminem.com

5 February World Nutella Day 9 February Pizza Day 11 February

Sport: Noosa Summer Swim 2-3 February Noosa Main Beach worldseriesswims.com.au/ noosa-summer-swim

Make a Friend Day

NSW. Festival: Sydney Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras 15 February – 3 March Various venues mardigras.org.au

TAS. Maritime event: Australian Wooden Boat Festival 8-11 February Various venues, Hobart australianwooden boatfestival.com.au

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the traveller > WHERE TO GO NEXT

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> There are 882 connected rail stations in Tokyo and the city’s busiest station, Shinjuku, has a labyrinth of over 200 exits.

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> The Indian Pacific train from Perth to Sydney crosses the world’s longest straight stretch of track at 478 kilometres.

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> The first person to reach the summit of Mount Everest, Sir Edmund Hillary, was born and raised in the City of Sails.

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—Whether you’re looking to perfect your tree pose, meditate or get fit, there’s a feel-good island escape to suit everyone. Jenny Hewett seeks out the latest and greatest temples of health in Bali—

Alexandra Andersson, Inga Beckmann, @raskal

> W H E N I T C O M E S to the ultimate holiday, if you’ve swapped late nights out, sleep-ins and indulgent dining for 6am workouts, colonic irrigation and meditation – you’re not alone. Wellness has never been more popular. According to the Global Wellness Institute, the wellness tourism industry is growing at a rate nearly twice as fast as overall global tourism and by 2022 this niche travel sector is predicted to be worth a staggering $1.2 trillion.

Where better to get a piece of this (obviously, wholesome) pie than Bali?

With its culture steeped in healing, unique natural landscape and skilled local therapists, the Indonesian island is one of Asia’s hottest destinations for all things wellbeing. From mind-body makeovers to intense fitness retreats, Bali has it all. Here is a list of the best – find one that’s right for you.

HE AL IN G H A N D S Bali is home to an estimated 8000 balians (traditional healers), which is almost four times the number of doctors on the island. Many locals – and more recently, spiritual tourists – turn to these therapists to cure everything from chronic pain and injuries to a broken heart.

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MICHAEL KL IM AT CH OSEN EXPERIENCES

T H E T R AV ELLER

Chosen Experiences WHAT LIFESTYLE OPTIMISATION BEST FOR PERSONAL IMPROVEMENT GUESTS EIGHT TO 12 HIGHLIGHT BODY WORK SESSION WITH DR STEPHEN OFFENBURGER

> Even if Michael Klim isn’t one of your dream dinner party guests, you’ll want to pinch yourself when the swimmer sits down opposite you at this luxury villa retreat. The Australian Olympic gold medallist is just one of several renowned experts who join a carefully curated team of hosts (on selected retreats only) offering mentorship in everything from fitness to finding your purpose. Balance is at the program’s core and once selected – the application process is rigorous – participants tackle a mix of physical and mental challenges, whether it’s canyoning down waterfalls or intense meditation sessions. Come to meet like-minded souls, stay for the restaurant-quality food. chosenexperiences.com

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Revivo Wellness Resort

> One of Bali’s newest luxury health resorts offers immersive three- to 14-day retreats in an exquisite bougainvillea-draped villa compound in Nusa Dua. With just 16 suites – some of which have private pools and sunken baths – it is an intimate experience and the small group classes feel more like personal training sessions.

The inventive vegan meals such as coconut ceviche and raw zucchini pesto pasta provide all the fuel you need to tackle the varied activities, including everything from Muay Thai and aerial yoga to aqua fitness. Combined with daily yoga, mindfulness, journalling and detoxification treatments such as body scrubs and colonic hydrotherapy, it’s designed to give you an inside-out reset. revivoresorts.com

N U TRIO RESTAUR AN T AT REVIVO

“T HE IN VEN T I VE VEGA N ME ALS PR OVIDE ALL T HE FUEL YO U NEED TO TACKLE T HE VARIED FI T NESS PR O GR A M.”

C O M O SHAMBHAL A ESTATE

WHAT MINI WELLNESS RESETS BEST FOR ACTIVE COUPLES GUESTS UP TO 32 HIGHLIGHT DAY SPA WITH INFRARED SAUNA AND FLOATING SALT POOL

S H H H...

If you’re looking for a little peace and quiet on your next holiday, Bali Silent Retreat might be just what the doctor ordered. Book in at this eco-sanctuary to meditate and do yoga in golden silence. balisilentretreat.com

Seminyak Escapes WHAT OUTDOOR ADVENTURE WITH F45 WORKOUTS BEST FOR MAKING FRIENDS AND GYM JUNKIES GUESTS BETWEEN 10 AND 20 HIGHLIGHT MOUNTAIN HIKES

> If cult fitness is your thing, then you’ll feel right at home at this new surf-and-turf retreat in south Bali. Exploring the yin and yang of Bali’s landscape, this seven-day adventure mixes up daily HIIT sessions with outdoor activities such as surfing (including video analysis of technique), mountain hikes and waterfall treks. Wind down with yoga, meditation, daily massages and wellness master-classes focusing on topics such as digestive optimisation. The package also includes professional snaps of your most Insta-worthy moments. seminyakescapes.com

Como Shambhala Estate

Martin Morrell

> This A-list adored retreat – fans include celeb couple Chrissy Teigen and John Legend, who checked in last year – offers bespoke packages in a soul-soothing jungle setting next to the Ayung River in Ubud. Combining modern science with traditional Balinese healing and water-based therapies using local alkaline spring water, the retreats start from as little as three days, which means you can head here for a quick, if expensive, wellness fix. Yoga, pilates and qigong are central to the concept but you are encouraged to get busy with activities like hill bike challenges and whitewater rafting. comohotels.com

A WORKO U T SESSIO N AT SEMINYAK ESCAPES

WHAT HOLISTIC WELLNESS BEST FOR A-LISTERS AND CHANGE-SEEKERS GUESTS UP TO 82 HIGHLIGHT AYURVEDIC PROGRAM

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Hotel Komune WHAT FITNESS AND LIFESTYLE RETREAT BEST FOR STRENGTH, FUNCTIONALITY, AGILITY AND WEIGHT-LOSS GUESTS 10 TO 12 HIGHLIGHT VOLCANO SUNRISE HIKE AND SNORKELLING IN AMED

> Bali’s serene east coast is the backdrop of this fitness-focused retreat, which includes a stay at the laid-back Hotel Komune on the famous Keramas surf break. Choose a weeklong program led by Bali-based personal trainer Mark Hill, incorporating strength, high-intensity training and boxing, with a focus on improving agility and flexibility. There’s lots of fun stuff, too, from moonlight surfing to a sunrise volcano hike up Mount Batur and snorkelling at nearby Amed. While a nutrition consultation will point you in the right direction to start eating better, the gourmet vegan food on offer at the resort’s poolside Health Hub area – macro bowls or cashew cheesecake, anyone?

– will ensure you get a tasty head-start. komuneresorts.com

Sukhavati, Ayurvedic Retreat and Spa WHAT TRADITIONAL AYURVEDIC HEALING PROGRAM BEST FOR STRESS MANAGEMENT AND DETOXING GUESTS UP TO 15 HIGHLIGHT SHIRODHARA OIL TREATMENT AND VILLAGE BIKE RIDES

> Learn how to eat, sleep and work for your dosha (body type) at this integrated Ayurvedic retreat in Bali’s peaceful Mengwi. Set in a leafy, private estate with seven luxury villas, this little slice of paradise offers one- to 21-day holistic healing programs rooted in the ancient Indian practice of Ayurveda (utilising traditional herbs, oils and massage techniques to detoxify and heal). Therapies are complemented by regular yoga, meditation, expert seminars and local bike excursions. The light vegetarian food uses local, organic and seasonal produce – think zucchini soup and carrot curry. sukhavatibali.com

VIEWS FRO M NIHI SU MBA

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Nihi Sumba > Named the world’s best hotel twice in a row

by Travel + Leisure, this luxe resort on Indonesia’s Sumba Island hosts week-long mind-body retreats with guest experts such as Tatiana Boncompagni Hoover, co-author of The Model Trainer Method. nihi.com

The Pineapple House WHAT SURF, YOGA AND WELLNESS RETREATS BEST FOR COUPLES AND SOLO TRAVELLERS GUESTS UP TO 10 HIGHLIGHT BESPOKE NATURE OF THE RETREATS AND PRIVATE YOGA TUITION

> Spreading good vibes wherever she goes, owner and yogi Rachel Fearnley, along with her small team, is the reason this cosy villa retreat in Canggu feels like a warm hug. As well as trying their surf and yoga packages, you can request tailor-made programs – whether it’s a juice cleanse detox or a deep-dive mind and body reset. Expect them to include private yoga sessions, yoga passes for nearby Desa Seni, in-house massages (from a former royal masseuse, no less), personal training and a daytrip to nearby Ubud or Uluwatu. pineapplehousebali.com

JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O B AL I FR O M ALL A R O U N D A U S T R AL I A.

Ocean Soul Retreat > This yoga and freediving escape sails around the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Komodo Island on a traditional Indonesian boat. oceansoulretreat.com Togat Nusa Retreat > Based out of Sumatra’s famed Mentawai Islands, one of the world’s best surf destinations, this retreat offers surf and yoga packages in a remote tropical setting. togatnusaretreat.com Timor-Leste Active Adventure > Sunrise walks, hiking, snorkelling, boating and daily yoga and pilates make up this retreat on the little-known Indonesian island of Timor-Leste, east of Bali. theactivepassport.com.au

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TOK YO PART 1: T HE ULT IM ATE HIT L IS T

—Tokyo is a whirlwind mash-up of the hyper-new and traditional culture. Local Selena Hoy curates the best things to do on a weekend getaway in this enticing city—

> SKY-HIGH PERFECTION

“TEMPLE STREE T” IN SHIBAMATA

> TEMPLE TOWN. For a glimpse into old-fashioned Tokyo, head to “Temple Street” in Shibamata. The shopping strip ends at Shibamata Taishakuten, a Buddhist temple dating back to the 1600s.

Handsome shops with authentic wooden signboards line the street and vendors hawk fresh food, sweets, traditional toys and religious items like incense and prayer beads. Get a snack, pick up souvenirs and marinate in the nostalgic charm. shibamata.net/eng

With a population of 13 million (and nearly 38 million in the greater metropolitan area), the magnitude of Tokyo can be hard to wrap your head around. Put the busy city in perspective from the beloved 333-metre Tokyo Tower, where you can see across the vast metropolis and beyond – all the way to Mount Fuji, 135 kilometres to the south-west. At the foot of the tower, Tofuya Ukai restaurant offers exquisite multi-course meals in a classic garden setting with dishes such as deep-fried tofu with miso and char-grilled wagyu beef. tokyotower.co.jp; ukai.co.jp/english/shiba/

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> ETHICAL CUTENESS. > ENERGY BOOST. If you love coffee, head to Café Trois Chambres in the hip Shimokitazawa neighborhood of western Tokyo. The coffee house has been around since 1980 and locals like to linger here over a book. If you’re in the area after dark, pop into a club such as Basement Bar to catch live indie and punk performances. toos.co.jp/basementbar

With the growing popularity of animal cafés where you can coo over creatures such as owls, hedgehogs and, of course, cats (where it all began), a dark side has emerged – there is concern over animal welfare and some establishments have been shut down. However, there are some that are doing it right – Neco Republic’s mission is to stop the culling of stray cats in Japan and the cats at the café are adoptable. All the snuggles and helping cats too – it’s a win! neco-republic.jp

TOK YO TOWER

L O C AL T IP. Karaoke joints charge by the half-hour and most require that you buy one drink, so make sure you know the price before you go in.

NEC O REPUBL IC

> BACK TO CENTRE. As you step off the upscale Omotesando avenue, a bamboolined walkway ushers you into the oasis that is Nezu Museum.

The museum has a collection of more than 7000 pre-modern Japanese and East-Asian artworks, including many Buddhist pieces. The sleek building, designed by architect Kengo Kuma, is a modern foil to the ancient works, while the garden outside lets you amble along winding paths, over tinkling brooks and past tiny tea rooms shaded by Japanese maples. nezu-muse.or.jp/en

> CONTROLLED CHAOS. NEZU M USEU M

They may look like disordered ants from above; everyone dodging and weaving through the famous Shibuya Crossing surrounded by big, blaring screens but the crowd quickly clears as the light changes.

After snapping the obligatory pics from the Starbucks overlooking the crossing, join the fray and hit up an izakaya (casual pub) such as Shunju, which features dishes like made-to-order steamed pot rice with mushrooms. Then, duck into one of the many karaoke venues that pepper the streets to belt out your best J-pop renditions. shunju.com/shibuya

4 8 H O U RS IN

TOK YO PART 2: T IME FOR TEA

“I T’S S O Q UIE T I CA N HE AR T HE S OF T CR ACKL IN G OF T HE K YOTO TE A LE AVES AS HE R OASTS T HEM

in traditional Japanese houses named for tea: cha no ma, which means “tea space”.

Tea master Shinya Sakurai opened Sakurai Japanese Tea Experience in 2014. Just as sencha tea ceremonies were popularised in the Edo period (1603–1868) – marking a departure from the matcha-based tea ceremony, which uses powdered green tea rather than whole leaves – Sakurai wanted to rethink the preparation of Japanese tea and experiment with pairing tea and alcohol.

Though the tearoom is small, there is a feeling of space. Burnished copper panels gleam in the kitchen and an L-shaped counter made from polished black wood acts as a canvas for tea presentation. Staff wear white jackets reminiscent of lab coats and as they wield their tea ceremony tools with precise motions, it resembles a science experiment in progress (in fact, the Japanese name for the place is closer to “Sakurai Tea Research Institute”).

I M A G ES_ K AT E BI T N ER

A N D T HE STRE A M OF WATER AS I T IS P O URED.”

A WAGASHI (TR ADI TIO NAL SWEE T)

As I sit down at the eight-seat counter of Sakurai Japanese Tea Experience, I’m struck by how immaculate and calm it is. My head is swimming with to-do lists and adding to that is the urge to take out my phone and start snapping pictures.

Instead, I stifle the urge and take a deep breath, drinking in the serenity of the place as I ready myself to drink lots of green tea.

Green tea is thought to have first been brought to Japan from China during the ninth century and has been a mainstay of Japanese culture ever since. Traditional tea ceremonies have been elevated to an art form, with a prescribed set of tools and a strict set of procedures, down to the way that the tea is scooped and the orientation of the design on a tea bowl as it is offered to the guest.

Today it’s also the norm in hotels, office break rooms and homes. There’s even a room

A TEA CEREM O NY IN PRO GRESS

—It’s easy to get swept up in the chaos of Tokyo. But Selena Hoy discovers that a modern, meditative tea experience can uncover Japanese culture better than most tourist hotspots—

T O K YO

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628 G R A M S T H E AV ER AG E A M O U N T OF G REEN T E A C O N S U M ED PER C API TA E AC H YE A R IN JAPA N

TEA MASTER SHINYA SAKUR AI

T HE SELECTIO N OF TEA LEAVES

One of the well-coiffed staff comes to take my order. I choose hojicha (roasted green tea) with wagashi (Japanese-style sweets) and he offers a selection of six teas from different tea-growing areas of Japan to choose from.

I had thought that green tea was all the same but he explains that this one is spicy, while another is sweeter, a third flowery. I pick a Kyoto leaf, then peer into a set of stacked bamboo boxes to select my accompaniment, awamochi – a sweet dumpling made with foxtail millet and red bean paste.

As he swirls the leaves over a brazier in a small ceramic pot, it’s so quiet I can hear the soft crackling of the Kyoto tea leaves as he roasts them and the stream of water as it is poured from a copper kettle across the room.

After a minute or so, he brings the pot to me, wafting it under my nose, and the freshly roasted smell of the tea, deep green and smoky, washes over me.

He ladles water with a bamboo dipper into a small teapot, placing it in front of me.

After letting it steep for 40 seconds, he pours it into a cup that he’s pre-warmed with hot

water, coaxing out every drop with an exacting flick of the wrist. A fragrant vegetal steam rises from the cup, sending a promise of flavour.

I feel the warmth of the ceramic and the smoothness of the glaze on my fingertips as I wrap my hand around the cup that’s been presented. “With the first infusion, the tea is strong and bitter,” the bartender explains.

The first cup pairs well with my awamochi, the sweetness playing off the boldness.

He then takes me through three infusions, inviting me to compare them, explaining that the character of the tea changes each time.

At home, I never use my tea leaves more than once but he again pours water over the leaves, this time steeping only 30 seconds, as the leaves have already been activated. “On the second, the leaf opens up and the tea is aromatic. On the third, it’s mild and easy to drink.” The second cup rolls over my tongue, rounder than before. By the third, the astringency has faded and it tastes soft and almost sweet.

By this stage, I’m feeling quite mellow.

This space and experience couldn’t be more different from traditional tea ceremonies with geishas and tatami mats, yet the calmness and focus I’m left with is exactly the same.

I walk away with a bag of Kagoshima tea I picked from the on-site shop to try at home and a delicate flavor left on my tongue. It is a keepsake more fleeting than a photo but from an experience more deeply felt.

Sakurai Japanese Tea Experience Spiral Building, 5-6-23 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku. sakurai-tea.jp

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VIC Great Ocean Road BES T W H EEL S: S U V

As one of Australia’s most romantic drives, the Great Ocean Road is a journey best done in an SUV, with ample time to stop at secluded beaches and take in the views. Three to four nights is sure to do justice to this drive from Torquay through to world-famous Bells Beach and onto holiday hotspots including Anglesea, Lorne and Wye River. Don’t miss the spectacular limestone Twelve Apostles and the pretty fishing village of Port Fairy. With accommodation along the way ranging from budget to high-end, the world’s your oyster. visitgreatoceanroad.org.au

otherworldly limestone spires rise from the Pinnacles Desert and there are sea-life experiences galore. On the return trip from Perth, you’d be wise to stop at the state’s rock lobster capital, Cervantes, before heading to the “living fossils” of Lake Thetis.

Other highlights? Sea lion charters at Jurien Bay and the 122 coral-fringed Abrolhos Islands off Geraldton. Insider tip: drive in spring and be rewarded with carpets of wildflowers bringing the national parks to life. westernaustralia.com

SA Adelaide to Kangaroo Island BES T W H EEL S: H AT C H B ACK

Beloved by honeymooners and families alike, Kangaroo Island is almost four hours from Adelaide by road and ferry and a world away from the rat race. Set the clock to island time with a relaxed road trip through nature’s playground. Explore rock tunnels at Stokes Bay and easily find a beach to yourself along 500 kilometres of winding coastline. Plus, there will be countless opportunities

BES T W H EEL S: SEDA N

It’s compact – by Western Australian standards, anyway – but the 897-kilometre Indian Ocean Drive packs a punch. Turquoise seas lap at endless white-sand beaches,

PINNACLES DESERT

WA Indian Ocean Drive

SEALS AT K ANGARO O ISL AND

to spot kangaroos, koalas, dolphins and seals. There’s also an excellent food and wine trail and the chance to sleep in heritage lighthouse keepers’ cottages, where you’ll wake to the sound of crashing waves. tourkangarooisland.com.au NSW Grand Pacific Drive The eye-catching Sea Cliff Bridge is a highlight of the 140-kilometre Grand Pacific Drive but not its only claim to fame. Starting in the Royal National Park, about an hour south of Sydney's CBD and winding through Wollongong, Shellharbour, Kiama and Shoalhaven, it’s a drive made for shifting gear and enjoying the surf-loving culture of the coast.

Stopping for fish and chips on the beach is a given – and you can make your way back to Sydney via the Southern Highlands to double your road trip fun. grandpacificdrive.com.au NT Greater Litchfield Loop BES T W H EEL S: 4 W D

It’s classic Top End landscape: palm-fringed beaches, waterfalls cascading into natural rock pools and secluded fishing spots. Make your discovery of Litchfield National Park a three- or four-day adventure and take the 550-kilometre Greater Litchfield Loop. Starting in Darwin, families should make their first stop 45 minutes away at the Territory Wildlife Park, where native animals await their close-up. Cool off at swimming spots Florence Falls and Dundee Beach and soak up the history at the World War II sites

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at Mandorah. The drive proves you don’t need to be Crocodile Dundee to head off on a Northern Territory adventure – but there are 4WD options on unsealed roads if you are that way inclined. northernterritory.com/drive/ greater-litchfield-loop TAS Great Eastern Drive BES T W H EEL S: S U V

The east coast’s knock-out views and world-famous beaches (hello, Bay of Fires and Wineglass Bay) jostle for attention with some of the state’s best wineries and restaurants.

Driving from Hobart, explore Tassie’s convict past at Port Arthur and Maria Island, or sample oysters, mussels and scallops straight from

DAIN TREE R AINFOREST

BES T W H EEL S: C O N V ER T IBL E

the ocean at Freycinet Bay. The 177 kilometres from Orford to Saint Helens offers temptations such as artisan cheesemakers, breweries and – in true yin-yang-style – heritage wilderness hikes. greateasterndrive.com.au QLD Great Barrier Reef Drive BES T W H EEL S: 4 W D

Starting in Cairns and ending at Cape Tribulation in the Daintree, the 140 kilometres of coastline boasts rainforest to the left and the Coral Sea to the right. Sure, you can complete it in a few hours but take a couple of days to explore instead.

Spot local wildlife as you zip-line though the treetops and finish with a boat tour of the Great Barrier Reef. greatbarrierreefdrive.com.au

FU N

factor

ISL AND LIFE FA MILY

—With an average of eight hours of sunshine a day, Perth is officially Australia’s sunniest city. But with plenty of family-friendly attractions, Natascha Mirosch says it might just take the crown as the best city for kids, too—

> It’s about 45 minutes by fast ferry from Perth to Rottnest Island, or “Rotto”, as the locals call it. There, you’ll almost certainly get the chance to interact with the island’s famous inhabitants, the quokkas, who seem unperturbed by the crowds and happy to pose for photos (but there’s strictly no feeding or patting). Rottnest also boasts some idyllic swimming beaches, fringed by coral and perfect for wave haters and beginner snorkellers. Rent a bike on the car-free island to explore sites such as the historic lighthouse, the Rottnest Island Museum (housed in the original old mill and haystore) or discover salt lakes and secluded clifftops to spot passing seals and dolphins. rottnestfastferries.com.au

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ROT T NEST ISL AND

CYCLE ARO U ND ROT T NEST ISL AND

C O N NEC T WIT H NAT URE

RIO TIN TO NAT URESCAPE AT KINGS PARK

Jason Thomas, Grant Taylor

> At 400 hectares, Kings Park is one of the world’s largest inner-city parks. Overlooking the Swan River and CBD from Mount Eliza, the area is a mix of parkland and curated gardens, with two-thirds conserved as natural bushland. It’s a great place for a bushwalk or a family picnic and there are also some unique playgrounds, such as the Rio Tinto Naturescape, which has a creek and billabong to paddle in, a 40-metre “python” walk along the treetops, a tangle of ropes to climb and more. The Lotterywest Family Area is ideal for younger kids, with a “learn to ride” bike path and a café. Keep an eye out for kids’ shows in the amphitheatre over the school holidays as well as open-air movies at the Moonlight Cinema in the summer months. bgpa.wa.gov.au/kings-park

JU MPING OFF T HE JE T T Y AT HILL ARYS B OAT HARB O UR

SAND, SU N AND SLIDES

C ULT URE-UP > Perth is the traditional home of the Whadjuk people and Go Cultural tour guide Walter McGuire is an elder of the Nyungar, one of the Whadjuk people’s tribal groups. Walter’s tour of Elizabeth Quay, along the banks of the Derbarl Yerrigan (Swan River), starts with a moving traditional welcome in the Nyungar language, with ochre markings being applied to participants’ hands.

As a font of knowledge about the Indigenous and colonial history of Perth, Walter tells stories of the dreamtime, explains the six seasons the Nyungar follow, talks about sacred sites, traditional hunting and foraging grounds, and the conflicts between early settlers and the Whadjuk people. Kids will love walking around wearing kangaroo furs, participating in a smoking ceremony and having a go with traditional hunting tools. gocultural.com.au

> Sure, there are plenty of places to swim in Perth but Stillwater Beach at Hillarys ticks all the safety boxes for parents while providing plenty of fun, too. Older kids will love diving off the swimming pontoon and sliding down the water slides, while the smaller ones can play on the sandy shore, drop a line off the jetty or go wild on the beachside slides and swings. There are barbecues and picnic tables but if you don’t fancy a BYO lunch, family-friendly food options such as pizza and sushi (and perhaps even a well-deserved wine or beer for Mum and Dad), are available harbourside. hillarysboatharbour.com.au G O C ULT UR AL G UIDE WALTER M c G UIRE

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“K ID S WILL LOVE T HE T HEY CA N IN TER AC T WI T H STARFISH, R AYS A N D H ARMLESS BABY SH ARKS.”

M ARKET FU N > Established in 1897, the Fremantle Markets are housed in their original heritage building, featuring 19thcentury cobblestones and original signage. Located 30 minutes from the CBD and open Friday to Sunday and Monday public holidays, the markets host 150 stalls with everything from Indigenous art to fashion. But the first thing you’re likely to notice is the mouth-watering smells – you won’t leave hungry, with the huge array of food stalls offering a variety of cuisines from Japanese-style crêpes to the famous WA honeycake and donuts. Buskers add to the lively atmosphere and there is plenty on offer for the kids – from face painters to fairies and a wildlife zoo where kids can have a close encounter with koalas, snakes and dingoes. fremantlemarkets.com.au

HANDS-O N AT T HE AQ UARIU M TO UCH P O OL

PE T T IN G TA NKS W HERE

Joel Barbitta

G O TO GAOL > Fremantle Prison is the country’s best-preserved convict building.

Regular tours of the gaol operate throughout the day, where you can hear the history of former inmates, visit the cells, chapels and exercise yards and even see the remnants of the gallows. Tour guide Andrew Henry is perfectly placed to impart his knowledge of the prison – which was built by the convicts themselves – having grown up on-site while his father was the prison’s chief medical officer. Older kids will enjoy exploring the kilometre of tunnels beneath the prison, dug to provide fresh water, and the adventurous can opt for a torchlight night tour complete with spooky ghost stories. fremantleprison.com.au

T HE AQ UARIU M OF WESTERN AUSTR AL IA

U NDER T HE SEA

300 KILOGRAMS IS THE WEIGHT THAT CAN BE REACHED

BY A FULL-GROWN SHOVELNOSE RAY

> Trying to tempt your tribe away from their devices? The Aquarium of Western Australia will entice them to look up. The aquarium houses one of the world’s largest living coral reef displays and has a dazzling range of sea creatures. Hop on the 98-metre long moving walkway (the longest in Australia) for a tour through the three million-litre glass tunnel. It’s home to all manner of marine life, including Dopey the grey nurse shark, octogenarian turtle Eddy, schools of colourful reef fish and elegant rays. Younger kids will love the petting tanks where they can interact with starfish, rays and harmless baby sharks, or the chance to take a behind-the-scenes tour to see how the aquarium operates. There are daily shark and turtle feedings and the intrepid can dive with the sharks, too. aqwa.com.au

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PER T H

A G OL D P O URING DEM O NSTR ATIO N AT T HE PERT H MIN T

S TAY

M O NEY TALKS > “Where does money come from?” It’s an age-old question posed by kids all over the world. Now they can have all their currency questions answered at the historic Perth Mint. Daily scheduled tours explore exhibits such as the world’s biggest gold coin – a one-tonne cast that’s 99.9 per cent gold and worth a staggering $50 million dollars – as well other historic coins, gold nuggets and gold bars. Kids can also see a live gold pour in the historic melting house and marvel as the metal turns to liquid in a furnace before being poured into a mould and plunged into water to set. Kids will be fascinated by the Perth Mint challenge – a quiz with its answers found among the exhibits – and love the chance to pick up a hefty $700,000 gold bar, mint their own coin and step onto the scales to discover what their weight is worth in gold. perthmint.com

> Quest East Perth CBD apartments with kitchens, a barbecue area, guest laundry and pantry shopping service. questapartments.com.au > The Westin Perth Newly opened and centrally located, with family rooms, plus a rooftop infinity pool. marriott.com > Be Fremantle Recently renovated serviced apartments (pictured above) with spectacular over-water views, full kitchen facilities, barbecues and bike hire. befremantle.com.au > Hotel Rottnest Located in the main settlement on Rottnest Island, there are 18 rooms, some with courtyards. hotelrottnest.com.au

JE T S TA R.C O M

> Discovery Rottnest Island Opening in March 2019 with its own pool and restaurant and 83 permanent glamping eco-tents, connected by boardwalk to Pinky Beach. discoveryholidayparks. com.au

Ross Swanborough

JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O PER T H.

> Hillarys Harbour Resort Apartments Located on the waterfront with easy access to the aquarium and the Rottnest Island ferry terminal. hillarysresort.com.au

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—An indulgent break can do wonders to help you recharge and reconnect. Add fine vintages, gastronomic delights and luxury accommodation – with a backdrop of Australian wine country – and you’ve got a recipe for the perfect romantic getaway—

DRE A M

WINE W E E KEN DS

BAROSSA VALLEY

SEPPELTSFIELD

S TATE S O U T H AU S T R AL I A SIZE OF REGIO N 138 SQUARE KILOMETRES N O. OF W INE PR O D U CERS AB O U T 150 FA M O U S F OR S HIR A Z/GREN AC HE/C ABER NE T

JAC OB'S CREEK

TA S T I N G N O T ES > The cellar door at regional icon, Seppeltsfield (seppeltsfield.com.au), runs like a well-oiled machine. While a tasting of their table wines – including an excellent vermentino plus a couple of good iterations of the regional big-hitter, shiraz – is worthwhile, their Centennial Cellar should not be missed. A barrel of tawny has been cellared here every year since 1878 and the estate is the only winery in the world to release a century-old, single vintage wine each year. You can literally drink your age in wine with a taste of the one from your birth year.

Seppeltsfield is home to more than just a cellar door though, with a range of experiential activities on offer, including craft workshops at the on-site artists’ studio.

WORDS_ SUDESHNA GHOSH

> One of Australia’s best known wine destinations internationally, with some of the country’s biggest global brands being born here, this South Australian wine region is also home to a growing number of boutique wineries. An easy one-hour drive from Adelaide Airport will bring you right into wine country, with green vines as far as the eye can see. Many of the Barossa’s cellar doors and leading restaurants are centred around what can be described as the “main drag”, Seppeltsfield Road.

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If this is one of the region’s most historic wineries, at the other end of the spectrum is the younger, quirkier Two Hands Wines (twohandswines.com).

Opt for a tasting on their atmospheric terrace – their premium shiraz, grenache and cabernet sauvignon are packed with personality.

For something hands-on, the “make your own blend” experience at Jacob’s Creek (jacobscreek.com) is a fun way to create a wine to your personal taste and take it home.

Other indie wineries worth visiting include Tscharke (tscharke.com.au) and Elderton (eldertonwines.com.au). But if you want to take the guesswork out, place your trust in a tailored tour focusing on boutique wineries with Barossa Taste Sensation (barossatastesensations.com).

When you’re all wined out, stop by the Seppeltsfield Road Distillers (seppeltsfieldroad distillers.com.au) to try their range of craft gins.

"A BARREL OF TAW N Y W INE FR O M E VERY YE AR SIN CE 1878 H AS BEEN CELL ARED HERE A N D YO U CA N TASTE T HE W INE FR O M YO UR O W N BIRT H YE AR.”

CHECK IN > In the middle of all the action sits the exclusive resort The Louise (thelouise.com. au). Ideal for a romantic escape, the intimate property (it is off-limits for kids under 10 years old) offers just 15 oversized suites, each of them featuring private courtyards opening up to vineyard views. The understated sophistication of the décor – think muted hues of khaki and cream, plantation shutters and curated art – is enhanced by touches of thoughtful luxury such as spacious marble-clad bathrooms, outdoor showers, a bespoke herbal tea blend service at evening turndown and an attentive, nothing-is-too-much-trouble ethos to service.

For a more DIY sort of a stay, Stoneleigh Cottage B&B (stoneleighcottagebnb.com) is a heritage bed and breakfast offering a charming country experience. Located in historic Angaston, one of the Barossa’s three main townships, the cosy, self-contained cottages offer convenient access to restaurants, cafés, shops and importantly, cellar doors.

C HEFS AT APPELL ATIO N

W H AT’S T H E F O O D L IK E? > The legendary Maggie Beer is one of the region’s biggest ambassadors and at Maggie’s Farm Shop you can fill your basket with a range of gourmet goodies. Next door at the rustic-chic The Farm Eatery (thefarmeatery.com) you can enjoy a lazy lunch in the sunshine by the tranquil lake, watching the turtles swim past. The menu, featuring fresh local produce, changes daily.

Also celebrating seasonal produce is Fino (fino.net.au) restaurant, where the compact grazing-style menu includes inventive dishes such as zucchini with new garlic, sprouted lentils and almond. Linger on their sunny terrace for sensational desserts such as crèma catalana.

For date night, however, look no further than the elegant Appellation (thelouise.com.au/dine).

With Barossa boy Daniel Murphy recently taking over as executive chef at this renowned hatted venue, the ingredient-led menus focus on provenance (it isn’t uncommon to find Daniel popping out to the kitchen garden in the middle of service) and personalisation. The simple yet refined dishes could include anything from Spencer gulf kingfish with stone fruit, buckwheat and sour cream to Hutton Vale lamb with smoked eggplant. Matching Daniel step for step is his wife and pastry chef Emily, who dishes up dreamy desserts like strawberry sorbet with yoghurt cream, meringue and davidson plum sherbet. Wash it all down with paired wines from the list showcasing award-winning labels.

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RUTHERGLEN S TATE V IC T ORI A SIZE OF REGIO N 4.11 S Q UARE K IL O ME T RES N O. OF W INE PR O D U CERS 19 FA M O U S F OR D U RIF/M U S C AT/S HIR A Z

WORDS_ NANCY MERLO

> You’ll spot the “Big Wine Bottle” from a mile away – Rutherglen’s iconic 36-metre landmark is hard to miss and offers a rather large clue as to what you’ll find in this charming town. Located three hours’ drive north-east of Melbourne, Rutherglen is one of the oldest wine regions in Australia, dating back to the 1850s, and its family-owned wineries are best known for robust reds and decadent fortified wines. For a small region, Rutherglen punches way above its weight in the wine stakes and it has a food scene to match.

SCIO N WINERY

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A NDRE W B ULLER

W H AT’S T H E F O O D L IK E?

TA S T I N G N O T ES > Kick off your tour of the wine region at one of the original vineyards. Established in 1859, Morris Wines (morriswines.com) helped make the durif variety – a full-bodied red – famous in Australia but they are also renowned for their fortifieds, including the award-winning Old Premium Rare Muscat (voted best in the world at Muscats du Monde 2018). Fifth-generation winemaker David Morris knows his stuff and if you want to learn a thing or two from the best, you can book a muscat mixology workshop at the cellar door. You’ll get to taste a selection of muscats, one dating from 1980, and blend and balance your own glass of fortified wine, all while surrounded by century-old barrels.

For something completely different, Scion Vineyard and Winery (scionvineyard.com) is what some might call Rutherglen’s “next gen”.

Headed by winemaker Rowly Milhinch (whose great-great-great grandfather happened to be the founder of Morris Wines), Scion are all about using traditional grapes in a modern way. They make the region’s only white muscat (it tastes like Turkish delight in a glass) but their dry rosé is a stand-out, while their semi-sweet fortified durif has quite the local following.

White wine lovers should finish off their tour by popping into Andrew Buller Wines (andrewbullerwines.com.au). His marsanne variety is delicious, if unusual, and the Frizzante – a slightly sweet sauvignon blanc with a hint of fizz – is perfect for a party.

To get a more comprehensive view of the region’s grape offerings, Lil Tipsy Tours (liltipsytours.com.au) can tailor a private tour of the area’s wineries to your tastes.

> Ask any of the friendly locals where to go for dinner and the response is unanimous: go to Thousand Pound (thousandpound.com.au) wine bar and order a steak. It’s good advice and you won’t be disappointed. The place has an extensive wine list showcasing mostly local wineries and the only way to properly finish a meal here is with a cheeseboard and a glass of the region’s famous muscat (when in Rome).

If you’re in the mood for some fancier fare, Jones Winery Restaurant (joneswinery.com.au) is open for lunch Thursday through Sunday and serves up French-inspired cuisine that looks as good as it tastes. The menu changes regularly, featuring dishes such as market fish with broad bean, caper and preserved lemon. Dessert might be a mouth-watering spiced panna cotta with pineapple, sage and walnut. Their cosy dining room and cellar door is worth a visit, set inside a restored 1860 brick barn.

All Saints Estate (allsaintswine.com.au) offers another fine dining option at its Terrace Restaurant, the area’s only hatted eatery.

CHECK IN > A five-minute drive from the town centre lies the newly restored Mount Ophir Estate (mountophirestate.com.au), which started out as a winemaking facility back in 1903 and today offers six types of accommodation. The original rustic homestead is beautiful but it’s The Tower suite for two that will make you want to move in. The luxurious French provincial three-storey tower is complete with a spiral staircase leading to a well-stocked reading room, where you could while away hours just relaxing and taking in views of the sprawling 140-acre vineyard – but then you’d miss out on all the eating and imbibing to be done. With Rutherglen’s wineries right on the doorstep, this is the ideal base from which to start exploring.

Slightly further out of town at Cofield Wines (cofieldwines.com.au), you can book a Grapevine Glamping experience and spend the weekend in a bell tent among the vines. Each tent is equipped with a king-sized bed and you’re treated to a bottle of Cofield wine on arrival.

MARGARET RIVER

BR O W N HILL ES TATE

S TATE W ES TER N AU S T R AL I A SIZE OF REGIO N 58 S Q UARE K IL O ME T RES N O. OF W INE PR O D U CERS 158 FA M O U S F OR C H ARD O N N AY/C ABER NE T

WIND O WS ES TATE

TA S T I N G N O T ES > With over 150 wineries located in the 100 kilometres between the two capes, plotting a wine tasting route here can be overwhelming.

The Small Family Wineries trail (margaretriver. com/itineraries/discover-small-family-wineries) is the perfect way to get around, providing a curated view of the region.

Plot your route through Windows Estate (windowsestate.com), where hands-on owner Chris Davies can usually be found working the vineyard alone, to try their chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon as well as varietals like an aged chenin blanc. Then pass by Burnside Organic (burnsideorganicfarm.com. au) – one of the region’s smallest producers – to taste organic varietals such as zinfandel and

WORDS_ MAX BREARLEY

> On the South West Coast of Western Australia, between Cape Naturaliste to the north and Cape Leeuwin to the south, this extraordinary wine region produces about 20 per cent of Australia’s premium wine.

Margaret River’s long warm days and cooler nights are ideal for ripening fruit, then, when winter comes, generous rainfall replenishes the crops and it becomes the perfect place to rug up and enjoy a drop by an open fire.

A U S T R AL I A

vermentino with Lara and Jamie McCall in their tiny cellar door. Continue on to Glenarty Road (glenartyroad.com.au) in the south near Karridale, where the cellar door also sells farm-grown produce (their cosy restaurant is a local favourite). The trail also includes Arimia (arimia.com.au), lauded for their ongoing dedication to sustainability, the family-run Brown Hill (brownhillestate.com.au) and you can end your journey at Cape Grace (capegracewines.com.au) vineyard.

If you prefer to be guided through the experience, Top Drop Tours (topdroptours. com.au) offer a Wine & Dine option as well as private tours. For the adventurous types, The Margaret River Discovery Co. (margaretriverdiscovery.com.au) combines vineyard tours with hiking and canoeing to showcase the region’s best attributes.

“I T IS AS M U C H AB O U T T HE SM ALL DE TA ILS AS I T IS T HE GR A N D SE T T IN G.”

CHECK IN > Wilyabrup, 25 kilometres north of Margaret River’s main township, is synonymous with quality. With its Dutch Cape style architecture, the luxurious Cape Lodge is as much about the small details as it is the grand setting – think complimentary nibbles, great drinks and service with an air of warmth and generosity.

The terraces of the spacious rooms look out to manicured gardens or over expansive lawns to the lake, and soothing birdsong provides the perfect soundtrack to the day.

The on-site spa treatments and art classes help feed into the feeling of a true retreat.

Even among these magnificent digs, The Residence – a separate house with its own helipad, set on three acres of private grounds within the 40-acre property – stands out as the ultimate luxury hideaway.

Alternatively, the quaint 1920s Margaret River Guesthouse (margaretriverguesthouse. com.au), just a two-minute walk from Margaret River’s main strip, puts you in prime position to experience all that the town has to offer. The B&B’s owner, Deb, is known for cooking up a delicious hot breakfast so you can fuel up on good food before heading off on a wine tour.

GLEN ART Y R OAD

W H AT’S T H E F O O D L IK E? > The restaurant at Cape Lodge (capelodge. com.au), with its refined neutral décor and panoramic lake views, is every inch the elegance you expect. Executive chef Tony Howell displays his ethos on the plate to offer a stand-out dining experience. Platters heaped with fresh Shark Bay prawns and crab from Bunbury, delicate marron tortellini served in a rich seafood bisque and dhufish caught off the coast of Busselton round out a menu that sings of WA’s ocean and freshwater catch.

Just nine kilometres south of Margaret River, award-winning winery Leeuwin Estate (leeuwinestate.com.au) is also home to one of the most exceptional restaurants around.

Head chef Dan Gedge, a protégée of Rick Stein, echoes the legendary British chef’s emphasis on local produce in his seasonal menus. Expect to find the pick of WA’s produce – Margaret River wagyu and venison, abalone and oysters from Augusta, plus delicacies including Manjimup’s famous black truffles.

Established in 1971, Cullen Wines (cullenwines.com.au) is known in the region as a standard bearer of biodynamic wine production, a philosophy that carries through the menu in their two-hatted restaurant.

Under the leadership of chef Iain Robertson, dining here is a refined experience, with local produce – much of it sourced from their on-site biodynamic garden – playing a starring role.

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Lipsticks so healthy, you could almost eat themâ&#x201E;˘

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T H E T R AV ELLER

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01. <

T H E B U SIN ES S T R AV ELL ER > “The impressive collection of works from famous local artists is worth checking out on your lunch break.”

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T H E FA M ILY > “Kids will love seeing the jellyfish, stingrays and seahorses up-close.”

1 DES T IN AT IO N 3 WAYS

02.

AUCKLAND —The City of Sails is packed with a boatload of sights and plenty of natural wonder. Three locals share their insider itineraries for New Zealand’s cosmopolitan playground—

03. < T H E A D V EN T U RER > “Soak up the silence and feeling of weightlessness as you take off.”

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A U CKL A N D

01.

THE BUSINESS TRAVELLER

TE AR A I WHI TI

NAME A N T O N I A W AT S O N O C C UPATIO N BANKER

> A HIT OF LOCAL CULTURE. Auckland Art Gallery, located in the heart of the CBD, is housed in a late-19th century French chateau-style building with a view towards Albert Park. The impressive collection holds more than 17,000 works, including pieces by famous New Zealand artists Gottfried Lindauer, Charles F Goldie and Gretchen Albrecht.

There is no permanent exhibition but around 800 pieces are on display at any time – perfect for checking out on a lunch break. aucklandartgallery.com

> ZOOM, ZOOM, ZOOM. P OKÉ BAR

Aaron McLean

To tick off your daily fitness goals and see a bit of the city, skip the hotel gym and rent an e-bike instead. Auckland is cycle-friendly and an electric bike is an ideal, low-impact way to get around. Start your ride at Quay Street, then head up the Grafton Gully cycleway and along Te Ara I Whiti, the famous pink lightpath. If you have more energy, extend your trip to Mount Eden. At the summit, you’ll be treated to great views across the city. adventurecapital.nz

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APÉRO

> SWEET AND SOLO.

L O C A L T I P. Have a breakfast meeting?

Book a table at Middleton in the heart of the CBD. middletoneatery.co.nz

If, like me, you have a rule to never order room service, try Apéro on Karangahape Road – or “K-Road”, as the locals say (it’s just outside the city centre and a bit edgier than the CBD). This casual and cosy restaurant has excellent food and wine offerings and knowledgeable staff who will help you navigate the tapasstyle menu. The venue is small enough that you can tuck into a corner with a book or your laptop and not feel out of place when dining alone. apero.co.nz

> GRAPE TASTING.

AUCKL AND ART GALLERY

> QUICK BITE. Dining at a food court might seem a bit odd, especially in a city packed with celebrated restaurants, but Queen’s Rise is different. Located near the bottom of Queen Street in the middle of the CBD, this food court is a perfectly curated collection of delicious eateries. Most of the spots at Queen’s Rise have their own space, making them feel like standalone restaurants rather than cafeteria vendors. If you are stopping in for a quick bite, try Poké Bar for a healthy option (it’s also ideal for a solo lunch). For a more traditional business lunch, Ottoman Mezze Lounge offers Turkish fare. Looking for something in between? Tuck into the woodfired pizzas at Dantes. queensrise.co.nz

Much of the charm of Auckland is what’s right outside the CBD – there are beaches, islands and the Waitakere Ranges on the city’s doorstep. Of course, when you’re travelling for business, it can be hard to sneak away for more than a few hours, which is why Villa Maria, a vineyard and restaurant in Mangere, is ideal.

With its rows of vines and sprawling green lawn, it’s easy to forget you’re actually just around the corner from an industrial complex and less than a 10-minute drive from the airport. I like to stop by for lunch or a wine tasting on my way in or out of town. villamaria.co.nz VILL A MARIA

02.

THE

> BEACH DAY. Auckland is filled with beautiful outdoor destinations and one of the best for a family trip is Orewa Beach. Boasting three kilometres of sand, the beach is a short 30-minute drive north of the CBD. When you’re done building sandcastles, hit the 7.5-kilometre Te Ara Tahuna paved pathway behind the beach. Whether you’re on foot, with a pram or cycling, it’s the perfect place to get in your fitness while showing young explorers some of Auckland’s native flora and fauna. orewabeach.co.nz

> UNDERWATER TREASURES. Sea Life Kelly Tarlton’s is home to jellyfish, stingrays, seahorses and sub-Antarctic penguins. The kids will love seeing the marine life up close, walking through Captain Robert Falcon Scott's replica Antarctic hut at Scott Base or splashing around on a playground designed like a shipwreck. There’s also a colouring station where kids design their own fish and watch them “swim” across a screen.

Of course, the biggest hit is always the shark tunnel. kellytarltons.co.nz

> HIGH JINKS. SK Y TOWER

A great way to start or end any family trip to Auckland is to head up Sky Tower, the tallest building in the Southern Hemisphere. You'll have fun taking in the 360-degree view, whether you’re planning adventures for the next day or pointing out the places you've just been. There are two viewing platforms so kids can bravely tip-toe out onto the glass deck to peer down at the city below their feet or stand on solid ground and look out through angled windows. Children under five enter free of charge. skycityauckland.co.nz

Tony Drayton, Max Lemesh

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FAMILY

L O C A L T I P. Wander down Dominion Road for delicious, affordable Asian cuisine.

Barilla Dumpling (barilladumpling.com) and Eden Noodles Café (edennoodles.business. site) are among my favourites.

WEIRD AND WO NDERFUL GALLERY AT AUCKL AND M USEU M

> LITTLE EINSTEINS. Kids love the interactive Weird and Wonderful gallery at the Auckland Museum, where they can check out dinosaur skulls, examine specimens through microscopes or curl up in the quiet “nest”. There’s plenty to keep older kids engaged, too.

They’ll be fascinated by the Origins exhibit, which explores New Zealand’s history and why some birds get around on foot despite having wings.

Another highlight is learning about the history of Maoridom – the museum holds over 1000 taonga (treasures). If you visit on a sunny day – and the three floors of galleries haven't worn everyone out – check out the surrounding park, Auckland Domain. It sits on a crater and has plenty of space to roam. aucklandmuseum.com

> ANIMAL FARM. Eating out with kids can be tricky but Cornwall Park Café has an excellent adult menu, plus child-sized options including a toastie, eggs and smoothies. The atmosphere is relaxed and welcoming but the best part is the setting. When you’ve finished eating, send the kids out into one of Auckland’s best parks to spot (and count) around 600 sheep, 60 cows and 30 species of birds. cornwallparkeateries.com

C ORNWALL PARK

> MINI SKI TRIP. Snowplanet is 30 kilometres north of the city centre and it’s where I got my kids acclimatised to snow sports before committing to a full snow holiday. Children of all ages can take ski lessons or get rugged up to go tubing.

If your kids are on the timid side, watch the slopes from the café’s window. snowplanet.co.nz

03.

THE ADVENTURER NAME JOE FAGAN O C C UPATIO N C U R R E N T LY COMPLETING A Y E A R-L O N G G L O B AL CYCLING TOUR

> UP AND AWAY. For a bird’s-eye view of the city, try paragliding. Soak up the silence and the feeling of weightlessness as you take off and glide over the city.

Wings and Waves offers tandem flights so anyone can give it a go – but be warned: from the moment you’re airborne on your first tandem flight, you will be hooked.

Luckily, the same operator offers courses so you can fly solo. You’re only allowed to fly over designated sites; popular ones include North Head and Muriwai Beach. wingsandwaves.co.nz PAR AGL IDING OVER M URIWAI BEACH

M O U N T EDEN

> RUN THE VOLCANOES. If you’ve heard Auckland is hilly, you’ve heard right. The city is built on about 50 volcanoes.

One of the best ways to see town and challenge yourself is on a volcano run. I like to start at Auckland Domain then go south to Mount Eden, Mount Hobson, Mount St John and One Tree Hill. Bring a map as there are often many tracks up or down the mountains.

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A U CKL A N D

TAK APU NA BEACH CAFE

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> STOP FOR SNACKS. C OASTEERING

> TRY IT ALL. Coasteering is a combination of hiking, climbing and swimming along a coast and it’s the perfect way to see the best of the country’s coastlines. You can adjust it to make it as challenging as you want – if you’re not comfortable in the water, go at low tide.

Start in Takapuna and work your way south to Cheltenham Beach.

Just make sure to check conditions before you head out.

Bookend your coasteering trip with two Auckland favourites.

Takapuna Beach Cafe does great breakfast and coffee and has even better views over the beach and Rangitoto, an island volcano. At the other end, Cheltenham Milk Bar (fb.me/cheltenhammilkbar) is famous locally for its tasty smoothies and shakes. takapunabeachcafe.co.nz

L O C A L T I P. Learn your vowels in Maori (it’s ah-eh-ee-oh-oo) and that “wh” sounds like “ph”. You’ll sound like a Kiwi in no time.

G OL DIE BUSH WALK WAY

> WHEEL IT.

> GOLDEN TREK. Start an hour west of Auckland and do one of my favourite hikes – the Goldie Bush Walkway, adding the Mokoroa Stream and Falls tracks to enjoy native forest, waterfalls and picturesque streams.

Many paths in the Waitakere Ranges are closed due to a disease that’s killing the native Kauri tree, so check closures online before you set out. Stay on the tracks and clean your shoes before you go and at the cleaning stations – you could be fined if you don’t. doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation

Art Polkanov

Waiheke Island, in the Hauraki Gulf, is a 40-minute ferry ride from Auckland CBD. While it’s known as a spot for holiday homes and vineyards, there’s so much more to the island.

You can rent a mountain bike from Fullers ferry and collect it when they drop you off at Matiata Wharf, on the western side of the island. For the best tracks, head to the eastern side where the gravel roads make for a challenging ride. The ride starts in Onetangi and takes about four hours. Afterwards, head back to Oneroa and grab takeaway fish and chips from The Local (thelocalwaiheke. co.nz) for a picnic on the beach. fullers.co.nz

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8/11/18 11:46 am

WALK THIS

— Despite travelling extensively through Thailand, Chiang Mai was never on Catherine Marshall’s radar – until she came across the beguiling hand-drawn maps of Nancy Chandler. Guided by the late American artist’s routes and illustrations, this mountainous city became a treasured paradise—

W AY

C O N NEC T IO N

T H E T R AV ELLER

THAILAND IS NOT UNFAMILIAR TO ME BUT CHIANG MAI IS A MYSTERY.

WAT SU O N D OK

“Ah,” people say when I tell them I’ve seen Bangkok from the bottom up, gliding along its klongs (canals) in a longtail boat, and from the top down as I sipped cocktails at a rooftop bar overlooking the Chao Phraya River.

Their eyebrows rise inquisitively as I recall the time I spent with Burmese refugees in the border town of Mae Sot and my walk across the Friendship Bridge from Thailand to Myanmar, nervously relinquishing my passport along the way. They smile as I speak of Ranong, where I roamed streets clamorous with the song of caged birds and drank a beverage striped with infusions of evaporated milk and black tea.

“But you haven’t been to Chiang Mai?” they ask, piteously. I had not been to this city, founded in the 13th century in a cushion of jungle about 688 kilometres north of Bangkok.

I had not been to this provincial centrepiece, famed for its northern Thai culture that takes expression in ancient temples, handicrafts, architecture and cuisine. The city, renowned for being the gateway to the elephant camps proliferating its outskirts, the paddy fields swaying up and down its hillsides and the chedi-crowned Doi Inthanon (Thailand’s highest mountain). It sounded like a dream.

Now, I’m finally being lured there by an old friend. She has wrapped Chiang Mai in a cellophane package and sent it to my Sydney mailbox. I slip the city from its envelope and watch as it emerges from within the folds of paper on which it’s been printed. It’s a candystriped swirl, invigorating glossy white stock: orange roads traced like latticework across the page, the turquoise ribbon of Mae Ping River bisecting the city, the bubble gum-pink Chiang Mai-Lampang super highway arcing across a chaos of legends and illustrations and immaculately handwritten recommendations.

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M O N K C H AT S Monks in Chiang Mai are friendly and happy to talk to visitors about Buddhist life and philosophy. Urban Adventures’ Mind and Soul gives visitors the chance to learn to meditate, offer alms to monks and spend time conversing with them. urbanadventures.com

FAH TAR A C OFFEE

“TO DAY, N A N CY’S M AP IS IC O NIC, FA M O USLY CR A M MIN G E VEN T HE M O ST IN T IM ATE OF DE TA ILS IN TO T HE T IG H TEST OF C ORNERS.” YO U NG LO CAL M O NKS

This isn’t any old moth-eaten, utilitarian atlas. It’s Nancy Chandler’s Map of Chiang Mai, an artwork from which the city’s people and places spring to multidimensional life. It’s a legacy etched in print. Although Nancy has been gone some years already, she’ll be here to guide me through the city she knew so well.

She had held my hand six years earlier, on my first visit to Thailand. Tucked beneath my arm was her map of Bangkok, a city she had arrived in, from the US, some 40 years before.

Nancy had lost her precious watercolours on a prior trip to Nepal and replaced them with puja powders found in Kathmandu’s market.

Later, she used the vivid pigments to create a rudimentary guide to Bangkok’s markets for a magazine published by the American Women’s Club of Thailand. So popular was Nancy’s map, the issue was reprinted twice.

Today, Nancy Chandler’s Map of Bangkok is iconic, famously cramming even the most intimate of details into the tightest of corners.

The map has expanded to include editions for Chiang Mai, Nonthaburi and Vietnam’s Hanoi, as well as pocket-sized directories packed with up-to-date information. Nancy’s daughter, Nima, has continued to run Nancy Chandler Graphics (nancychandler.net) in Thailand since her mother’s death in 2015.

In my hotel room, I spread out the paper map, flattening it with my fingers. There’s too much to do here, too many wats (temples) with golden, pitched roofs looming out from the page, too many markets designated in blocks of mauve and too many parks greening the city.

I lean in for a closer inspection of the Old City with its frame of ocean-blue moat and ramparts rendered mustard-yellow. The scale tells me the area is a walkable 1.5 kilometressquared (that’s in spite of the disclaimer, which states that, “We don’t always follow the rules.

The scale is ‘approximate’ only. We consider content more important than 100 per cent adherence to scale. As long as you can still find what you’re looking for.”).

C HI A N G M A I

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ELEP H A N T S While elephant-riding is still offered by many operators around Chiang Mai, conservation groups recommend against engaging in this activity. Elephants are often abused so they become compliant enough to carry passengers. Instead, choose an ethical elephant encounter, such as Intrepid Travel’s Chiang Mai and Elephants itinerary. intrepidtravel.com.au

D OI IN T HAN O N

Reassured, I set off along Ratchaphakinai Road with Nancy’s instructions – held up like a book before me – leading the way. Beyond the backpackers’ bars and the laneway to Angel’s Secrets café (angelssecretscafe.com), I find Wat Chiang Man, enclosed within mouldering walls and shaded by ancient tamarind trees. This is Chiang Mai’s oldest temple, built around 1296 and buttressed by elephants carved from stone.

Devotees have left offerings at the elephants’ feet: gifts secreted into banana-leaf parcels and coconuts spiked with joss (incense) sticks.

It’s tempting to linger here, quarantined as it is from the city’s clatter, but I’m lured by the butter-yellow stripe of Wiang Kaew Road and its promise of refreshment. Slipping into the grounds of Fahtara Coffee (fahtara.coffee), I attempt to recreate my experience of that striped Thai tea in Ranong with an iced coffee.

It’s not quite as enchanting but the memory I’m creating is indelible: the shaded courtyard, dappled in hill tribe colours, and the slap as the waterwheel hits a pond by the wall.

It’s hot back out on the street and people have taken refuge beneath tarpaulins at the food stalls on Khang Ruam Jum Road. There’s no name for these ad hoc eateries – they are simply noted on the map with three hot-pink stars – “restaurants”, says the legend.

On the other side of a luminously graffitied wall is the former women’s prison – “future park, we hope!” – and around the corner, Chuan Chom Café and the adjoining Chiang Mai Women’s Correctional Institution Vocational

CHIANG MAI MARKE TS

ELEPHAN T NAT URE PARK

C HI A N G M A I

TA M ARIND VILL AGE

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Training Centre, which offers massages.

“Both supporting female inmates,” Nancy writes beside a thin purple arrow.

The inmate-masseuses are fully booked, so I continue towards the frenetic Ratchamanka Road to the curiously titled Thai Massage Conservation Club –“massage by the blind”, Nancy notes. I’m ushered into a room lined with beds – it’s a communal experience – and introduced to Mrs Kae. She lacks sight but not strength or skill. She drags an elbow along the muscles of my back, kneads my clenched shoulders and, miraculously, succeeds in untwisting my coiled body.

Afterwards, the serenity on Phra Pok Klao Road mirrors my own as I float weightlessly along it. The heat is dissipating and devotees are gathering at Wat Phan Tao – the tuktuk drivers are smiling as they shout their fares.

Scents fill the air like a profound call to eat: chilli, lemongrass, basil. Tonight, I’m dining at Lert Ros (fb.me/LertRosRestaurant1986) – “highly rated north-eastern Thai”. But first, I must fulfil an exhortation Nancy made on my first trip to Bangkok: “Buy something you will treasure forever,” she said.

I have my eye on a tiny, amber-hued figurine at a market on Ratchadamnoen Road. I’ve tried to drive down the price – “bargaining is part of the fun!” Nancy says – but the trader’s not budging. So I hand over the stipulated baht and cradle the golden gem in my palm. It’s my own little piece of Chiang Mai – a city that has been so exquisitely conjured for me through another woman’s eyes.

JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O C H I A N G M A I.

S TAY The towering, 200-year-old tamarind tree, from which Tamarind Village hotel takes its name, provides shade in one of the courtyards modelled on traditional Lanna architecture.

The boutique hotel sits within the walls of the old quarter and harnesses this ancient culture in its décor, cuisine and spa. tamarindvillage.com

JE T S TA R.C O M

W H O IS N A N C Y? > The colourful love affair the late Nancy Chandler (below) had with Thailand began in 1969. As a young wife and mother, she had moved from the United States to Bangkok for her husband’s work. There, Nancy, who studied art history at the University of California, became an illustrator for a local magazine. Before long, she was designing greeting cards, T-shirts, logos and, of course, the maps she’s most famous for. Now, not only do her maps help travellers navigate a new city but they pay homage to the joy of exploration with local tips and unique guides to shopping, dining and sightseeing.

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the cut > THE BEST OF WHERE TO EAT, DRINK AND PL AY

BYR O N BAL BAYI PA PAGGEE

102 0 93 MEL B O U R NE

PA G E

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> With 250 kilometres of track and more than 475 trams, the city has the largest tram network in the world.

C A MB O DI A

PA G E

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> Slurping and chewing loudly is encouraged at the dining table here – but never blow your nose, it is a big no-no.

H O N OLULU

PA G E

10 0

> Singer Bruno Mars grew up in Honolulu. As a four-year-old, he became well-known locally as an Elvis impersonator.

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T HE C U T

G O O D TIMES MILK BAR

E AT + DRINK

MELBOURNE —It’s a piece of cake to find great food among the city’s abundant restaurants and cafés. Local foodie Larissa Dubecki reveals the places that are making a lasting impression—

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> PORT OF CALL. A member of the smart, new breed of cafés that make dressing for breakfast a tantalising proposition, this Sandringham hotspot is ready for its Instagram close-up thanks to a pretty pastel fit-out and equally eye-catching food. Look no further than the fried soft-shell crab, stuffed in a wickedly green matcha bun. portofcall.com.au

A stalwart of Carlton’s proud Italian scene since 1974, Brunetti’s new CBD outpost is no second place-getter.

Sticking to the adage of “something for everyone”, it has an espresso bar, pasticceria, gelateria, spritz bar, deli and café in a glamorous venue. Grab one of the 300 seats for a stab at a menu covering all bases from bacon and eggs to Italian classics. brunetti.com.au

> GOOD TIMES. Let the good times roll at this former milk bar in Bentleigh with diner-style booths and a speckled counter that resembles fairy bread. The menu is broad, satisfying adherents of the American diner school (burgers and potato gems arrive on bright plastic trays) and the mod-Oz school with delights such as salted caramel panna cotta with spiced granola. goodtimesmilkbar.com.au

cool cafés PA S TRY PERFEC TIO N Join the queue at Lune Croissanterie’s new city address, where Kate Reid’s delectable pastries provide an excellent reason to get up early. lunecroissanterie.com

HIG HER GRO U ND

> BRUNETTI.

> HIGHER GROUND. A former CBD electricity substation reimagined into a grand architectural statement of soaring ceilings and bare industrial bones, Higher Ground matches its award-winning design with a menu that’s all killer, no filler.

Take the virtuous road with the zen-like simplicity of steamed fish with XO mayo or toe a New York line and order an oozing toastie of raclette and mushrooms. Two years after opening, it’s no surprise it’s still on top. highergroundmelbourne.com.au

LU NE CROISSAN TERIE

Simon Shiff, Rebecca Newman, Josie Withers

> HIATUS. Brunch asserts itself as the most important meal of the day thanks to chef Rory Greenwood-McNeair, an Attica alum now bringing his skills to the lucky residents of Kew. The menu at this slick, Scandi-chic restaurant takes the road less travelled without scaring the horses – think delicate crab omelette with charred baby corn or the vivid hues of beetroot-cured gurnard. Take your dog too – there’s a pooch-friendly deck out back. hiatus.life

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best new restaurants > BAR SARACEN. Order the okra fried in cumin-spiked chickpea batter, add a squeeze of lemon and pair with a glass of Lebanese wine. Middle Easternaccented city dweller Bar Saracen’s snacking game is strong, with a grazing-friendly menu of silken hummus with prawns and boreks filled with spinach, egg and cheese.

With paint-stripped-walls and Moorish-style windows, it’s like a little slice of Beirut in Melbourne. barsaracen.com.au

> MATILDA.

Atlanta Bell, Gareth Sobey

BAR SAR ACEN

RETRO GLAM Step back in time at The Mayfair, which puts its supper club charms on high beam with a classic French bistro menu and live jazz every night. mayfairrestaurant.com.au

The stocks have risen even further on South Yarra’s well-heeled Domain Road thanks to chef Scott Pickett planting his flag opposite the Botanic Gardens. Anchoring the United Places boutique hotel, the timber and leather-clad charms of Matilda bring primo produce cooked over flame, including a stand-out whole charred Lakes Entrance baby octopus. File under “luxe to the max”. matilda159.com

MATIL DA

> CAPITANO. Get your American-Italian red sauce vibe on at a Carlton pub-turnedNew York-style pizza joint starring thin-crust beauties (toppings include ’nduja, the spicy Calabrian salami paste, or pickled chilli and rainbow chard). Add excellent pasta and a mighty veal parma built for two and say “ciao, bella”. capitano.com.au

> SUPER LING. Hakka Chinese cuisine gets its turn in the spotlight at this cute Carlton newcomer, offering an easygoing canteen vibe (complete with colourful chopsticks). The meat-heavy soul food of the northern region warms Melbourne’s cockles with the likes of braised pork belly with mustard greens, best washed down with something from their natural-leaning wine list. Word to the wise: don’t miss the mapo tofu jaffle. superling.com.au

> GREASY ZOE’S. A tiny 15-seat restaurant at the end of the Hurstbridge train line, Greasy Zoe’s is all about the local, the sustainable and the amazing kitchen talents of Zoe Birch. Make a day (or a night) of it and settle into the farmhouse-style dining room for a modern Australian tasting menu featuring the region’s best produce. greasyzoes.com.au

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MEL B O U R NE

> FRENCH SALOON.

great

When the sun is shining, join half of Melbourne in making a beeline for French Saloon’s balcony terrace in the heart of the city. If the real estate gods are smiling, settle in for a session of serious Eurocentrism with four types of caviar and oysters served as nature intended (au naturel or with horseradish and bottarga) and a French-leaning wine list. frenchsaloon.com

ARB ORY AFLOAT

> LONG CHIM.

outdoors

> HARLEY AND ROSE. There are many good things about this place and the picnic-style tables out front – perfect for families and West Footscray’s growing tribe of tattooed hipsters – are one of them.

Nestled down the quiet end of Barkly Street, this is the area’s go-to spot for perfect salumi, pizza and pasta. harleyandrose.net.au

> ARBORY AFLOAT. A CLASSIC REDUX Give a cheer for the return of the Espy. A thorough renovation of St Kilda’s Hotel Esplanade has kept the charm and added a beer garden with views of the bay. hotelesplanade.com.au

LO NG CHIM

This pontoon floating on the Yarra River is the buzzing headquarters of Melbourne’s party crowd. Striped umbrellas and sunbeds nail the Amalfi Coast vibe and the menu follows suit, delivering easy-peasy drinking food, including beef carpaccio, fried zucchini flowers and Neapolitan-style pizza. Just add an Aperol spritz and a pout. arboryafloat.com.au

> MADAME BRUSSELS. Melbourne’s original rooftop bar to rule them all, Madame Brussels is a captivating garden party where waiters in tennis whites tend to your every cocktail need amid an astroturfed fantasia.

Order a poached chicken, chive and mayo toasted sandwich with a Pimms chaser – and don’t forget to crook your pinkie. madamebrussels.com

Simon Shiff, Carmen Zammit

It’s Bangkok by way of Southbank at David Thompson’s Crown casinobased celebration of Thai street food. The best seats at this vibrant canteen can be found on the terrace overlooking the colourful riverfront promenade. If Melbourne’s fickle weather doesn’t live up to Thailand’s tropical promise, the chilli-laden heat of the chicken larb certainly will. longchimmelb.com

MEL B O U R NE

hot laneway haunts > ARLECHIN.

WHI TEHART BAR

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SU NDA

> BAR AMERICANO.

ARLECHIN

It took the Grossi family years to realise the gem lurking behind their flagship restaurant Florentino but the magnificently moody makeover of their wine cellar into one of the CBD’s best laneway bars is reason enough to forgive the delay. Head to Arlechin for best-in-show cocktails and the midnight spaghetti, which comes out punching with capers and colatura (an umami-rich fermented anchovy sauce). arlechin.com.au

It’s standing room only at this cocktail bar tucked down an alley off an alley (Presgrave Place) – but that’s part of the charm of Bar Americano, where aficionados imbibe classics like the Chicago Fizz and Old Cuban. baramericano.com

> WHITEHART BAR. A shipping container bar down an obscure laneway? Yes, Whitehart Bar doubles down on two Melbourne tropes and comes up smiling. Set your GPS for this former car park lurking off Little Bourke Street in the CBD’s lower reaches and you’ll find the indoor-outdoor venue of your dreams, complete with DJ sets and innovative cocktails. whitehartbar.com.au

JACKET REQUIRED Enter the coolroom at Windsor’s sandwich joint, Boston Sub. It’s here you’ll find secret tikithemed cocktail bar, Jungle Boy. jboy.com.au

JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O M EL B O U R N E FR O M A R O U N D A U S T R AL I A.

> SUNDA. Tucked down Punch Lane at the top end of Chinatown, Sunda is wowing the crowds and critics alike with a menu that combines Vietnamese, Malaysian and Indonesian influences.

Don’t miss the roti with Vegemite curry – the cultural mash-up that’s taken the city by storm. sunda.com.au

> BAR TINI. A Spanish pit stop amid the street art of Hosier Lane, Bar Tini’s drawcards are equal parts snacking and drinking. Colonise a bar stool, order a vermouth or gazpacho bloody Mary and get stuck into the housecured seafood. It’s an authentic slice of Iberian life in the heart of the CBD. bartini.com.au JE T S TA R.C O M

An unforgettable evening to fight wildlife extinction. Every Friday and Saturday evening from November to March.

In this new and exclusive after-hours event, adventure onto the Savannah for a guided tour, feast with friends, and enjoy an immersive performance that showcases the soul of Africa.

Proceeds from Sunset Safari help Zoos Victoria support international conservation partners such as Rhino Fund Uganda.

BOOK NOW zoo.org.au/sunsetsafari

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A N AT O M Y OF A DIS H

FISH AMOK CAMBODIA

< WHAT IS IT? > A STEAMED, MOUSSE-LIKE CUSTARD MADE OF CURRY PASTE, RIVER FISH AND COCONUT MILK, USUALLY SERVED IN A BANANA LEAF

—The colourful influences of Cambodia’s neighbours are reflected in its fragrant fare.

Fish amok epitomises the perfect balance of flavours with a uniquely Khmer twist— EAT IT UP > The best way to eat fish amok is with chopsticks (although, if it’s a particularly saucy one, you might need a spoon as well). Take a portion of the amok, put it on rice, and mix and turn it a little bit to let the flavour combine with the rice.

RIVER FISH > The fish has to be fresh and from a healthy, freshwater river – that will give the dish the perfect texture and will stop it from being too dry.

KR OEU N G PAS TE > This is the base of the dish’s curry sauce and must be a well-balanced recipe of shallots, red chillies, kaffir lime leaves, turmeric and lemongrass.

N U TS FOR C O C O N U T > The top layer of a coconut is grated and then added to the dish for a touch of sweetness.

W O R D S_ R A C H EL G R AY

G O BA N A N AS > “Amok” refers to the process of steaming food in a banana leaf.

After allowing the fish to marinate in the kroeung paste and coconut cream, it is wrapped up in banana leaves and steamed.

CUP OR COCONUT SHELL.

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C A M B O DI A

Q+A One chef’s masterful take on Cambodia’s classic fish amok NAME LU U MENG RESTAURANT MALIS RESTAURANT WHERE PHNOM PENH, SIEM REAP

The celebrated Cambodian chef has cooked with the likes of the late Anthony Bourdain and appeared on Gordon Ramsay’s Great Escape. Here, master chef Luu Meng of Malis Restaurants (malis-restaurant.com) in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, tells us his story of the national fish dish.

What is the history of fish amok? > My grandparents told me that a long time ago, fish amok was cooked in a pot or a pan.

But when Indians arrived in Cambodia and brought new spices, and the Chinese introduced steam-cooked food, the dish developed and became what it is today. Now, we cook the fish amok by steaming it in a banana leaf folded into the shape of a cup.

How would you describe the taste? > The dominant taste is lemongrass with hints of flavour from the turmeric and the coconut cream and undertones of herbs. I would say it’s like a fish curry without a lot of the liquid but it is still very juicy. In general, Cambodian food is not hot – it is mild and flavoursome.

Where in Cambodia did fish amok originate? > It’s not clear where it started but because this dish is made using freshwater river fish, I’d say inland areas. In central Cambodia, there is a lake called Tonlé Sap. That lake is so huge and can measure up to 250 kilometres by 100 kilometres during the wet season. The people who live near the lake eat fish amok every other day.

MAL IS RESTAUR AN T’S FISH AM OK

Who taught you how to cook the dish? > I learnt from my mum. She had a way of cooking the amok that was a bit drier and she loved it that way. I have slightly adjusted her recipe to make the consistency smoother and juicier and to enhance the flavours for people in the restaurant.

Malis has won Restaurant of The Year in Cambodia three times. How do you cook fish amok at your restaurant? > We pound the spices very finely so when we marinate the fish, the paste goes straight through the fillet. This allows the lemongrass, turmeric and the chilli to make the fish tastier.

At Malis Restaurant, we do what we call “living Cambodian cuisine”, so our food is modern and we use what is seasonally available.

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T HE C U T

The future of coffee is here and cafés including The Tiny Giant in Petersham, Sydney, are pouring the caffeinated drop into deliciously crunchy, chocolate-coated waffle cones. You’ve got 10 minutes to sip away (and perfect your Insta shot) or risk a creamy, chocolatey mess. So don’t feel depresso when you finish your espresso because waffly goodness awaits. thetinygiant.com.au

JUST DESSERTS

NEW C ONE-CEPT

This isn’t your average spag bol.

This is spaghettieis, a German treat masquerading as pasta. Introducing Aussies to the cool creation is Ice Cafe Venezia in Port Melbourne, Victoria. Call in for a plate of vanilla ice-cream passed through a potato ricer and covered with strawberry coulis and white chocolate.

They also do an ice-cream steak. icecafevenezia.com.au

W HAT'S [TRENDIN G]

FOR LUNCH? W O R D S _ K A I T LY N PA L M E R-A L L E N

WRAP IT UP

—Food is having an identity crisis. A burrito is no longer a burrito, pasta’s had the sweet treatment and coffee comes in a cone. There’s only one thing to do… dig in—

Sure, burritos are great. But have you tried a “flurrito”? Sydney fairy floss spinners Fluffy Crunch are making dreams come true by wrapping two scoops of ice-cream inside a bed of fairy floss – burrito-style.

Pure. Sweet. Genius. Topped with Froot Loops and rainbow dust, this will give you a sugar rush like no other. fluffycrunch.com.au

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T HE C U T

H APPY H O U RS

SUNSHINE COAST

—From nautical-themed bars with knockout views to hidden local haunts boasting quirky cocktails and drag queen bingo, happy hour on the Sunshine Coast is an affair to remember—

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PIER 33

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> PIER 33.

BRO U HAHA

> BROUHAHA. Sometimes, looks can be deceiving.

Pull into the QML Pathology carpark in Maleny and head for the door next to the dentist. Inside, you’ll find this modern craft brewery's engine room, where you can wind down on Fridays from 3-6pm with $7 off jugs of craft brew, Middle of the Road. There are 10 rotating taps and an all-Aussie line-up of spirits to complement a menu championing local produce (like the Maleny wagyu, which is fed the spent grains after brewing). brouhahabrewery.com.au

There’s a winning formula at Pier 33 (once the Mooloolaba Yacht Club): waterfront real estate, a cracking seafood-led menu (order the spanner crab rolls) and Instagrammable decor. Sipping a Capri Classico (gin, champagne, rosewater, peach bitters, violet and lemon) while a DJ plays on the lawn on Saturday afternoons, it’s hard to imagine life can get any better. But it does – on Tuesday to Friday from 5-7pm with $5 local schooners, house wine and basic spirits. pier33.com.au

LO CALE

You’re probably not looking for dark and moody watering holes in Noosa but when you pull up a stool at the long timber bar inside this Frank Macchia-designed venue, you will be impressed. The Italians perfected the art of aperitivo and here, tucked away on the southern end of Hastings Street, the predinner tradition continues with five cicchetti (snack) dishes for $45 from 12–6pm. Order a Negroni (there are seven different kinds on offer) or choose from the 36-page wine list – and that’s amore. localenoosa.com.au

> RICKS GARAGE. Hot rods, beer and towering burgers are the staples of Ricks Garage, a memorabilia-heavy diner in the hinterland town of Palmwoods. But head upstairs to the adults-only whisky bar and you’ll have your pick of over 170 bottles of whisky, scotch and bourbon, including an 18-year-old Yamazaki. Before you order a flight or sample one of the four barrel-aged cocktails (hickory smoked Old Fashioned, anyone?), kick off happy hour from 4-6pm Thursday to Sunday, with $5 beer and wine and $10 cocktails. fb.me/ricksgarage4555

WORDS_ CELESTE MITCHELL

Aaron Shum, Tim Birch

> LOCALE.

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S U N S HINE C OA S T

SU NSE T BAR

T HE P O CKE T ESPRESSO BAR

> SUNSET BAR. You’ll need your sunglasses when you head to this bar on the third floor of Noosa Boathouse, moored on the Noosa River. But don’t worry, there are spares for sale behind the bar if you forget.

Happy hour here just so happens to coincide with that golden last hour of daylight – hence the name of the bar, geddit? – and means $6 tap beers and house wines from 4.30-5.30pm. Perch at the long wooden bench for a front-row seat. noosaboathouse.com.au/sunset-bar

> THE POCKET ESPRESSO BAR. Once you pull yourself away from the “made-for-a-beer-ad” sands of Moffat Beach, toddle across the park to The Pocket to rub shoulders with the creatives who could have directed said advertisement. The only name you need to know here is Larry, the pale ale on tap (and brewed locally by Your Mates Brewing).

On Sundays there are $15 jugs and $1 wings from 4-6pm. thepocketespressobar.com.au

> THE BISON BAR. This Art Deco gem in Nambour is a destination in its own right. Sink into one of the vintage armchairs as the band sets up by the baby grand and you’ll feel like you’re in your granny’s lounge room (if grandma had a knack for mixing inventive cocktails served in crystal glassware). Be there 4-6pm on Fridays for $12 Espresso Martinis and $6 beer and wine and return on the first Thursday of the month for drag queen bingo. thebisonbar.com

T HIRD PL ACE

> THIRD PLACE. A skate shop in Maroochydore might not be the first place you look for a bar but those in the know head to Third Place from 4-5pm for $5 Balter XPA on tap. It might be the weathered gaze of a coal miner beaming from the back wall or the timber cladding but there’s no cosier spot to while away a few hours playing Connect Four and enjoying a tight edit of seven South Australian wines. Whisky aficionados will appreciate the Glencairn glasses. thirdplace.space

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M Y PL ACE

Honolulu, Hawaii

WORDS_ ANGELICA HANNAN

—Marylea Ablen Conrad grew up collecting shells on Sydney’s beaches but fell in love with the sand across the Pacific. Now, the designer has turned her childhood pastime into a jewellery line inspired by this slice of paradise—

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ISL A N D S T YLE Nail that effortless holiday look with these three essentials for Hawaiian flair.

KI-ELE’S SHELLS ARE HAND-PICKED FRO M T HE ISL ANDS

un-drenched sandy beaches, the endless blue of the Pacific Ocean and the balmy tropical breezes of Hawaii all create the perfect backdrop for Marylea Ablen Conrad’s work.

The mother of two and founder of jewellery label Ki-ele (ki-ele. com) gives us an insider’s guide to island life.

S

What makes Honolulu special? > It’s rich in Hawaiian culture and history and is a fun holiday destination that’s home to both high-end and local brands.

How has the city shaped you? > Coming from a faster-paced city like Sydney, Honolulu has taught me to slow down and enjoy the moment and all that’s around me – from the beauty of nature to the blessings of my family and friends.

What are some iconic spots everyone should visit? > You definitely need to soak up the sun on Lanikai Beach in Kailua – it’s my favourite beach for its white, powdery sand. There’s also Hanauma Bay for snorkelling. Hike up Diamond Head crater for that postcard-perfect photo. And at Kualoa Ranch (kuoloa.com) you can ride an ATV [quad bike] and check out the vast landscape where Jurassic Park was filmed.

What are the city’s best places for fashion and shopping? > Ala Moana Shopping Centre (alamoanacenter.com) and the many shops that line Waikiki Beach (waikikibeachwalk.com).

1.

AN ALOHA SHIRT. Go for a vintage one, if you can. It’ll give you a more retro, enviable look.

Where do you go to get inspiration for your designs? > The beach or hiking. We’re surrounded by endless inspiration from nature.

What are the most fulfilling aspects of your work? > Aside from creating my own schedule and having the flexibility to enjoy my family and personal time, I get to do what I love and design what I’m passionate about.

What does it take to be a good designer? > Constant designing, hard work, research and a good understanding of business.

2. A FLORAL OR SHELL LEI. Traditionally given to someone upon their arrival or departure, the garland is one of Hawaii’s most iconic symbols.

Who are your style idols? > Christian Lacroix, Valentino, Issey Miyake, Akira Isogawa and Zimmermann.

How do the materials you use in your pieces reflect Hawaii? > We use a lot of hand-picked shells and other natural elements, including coral and freshwater pearls – they reflect everything that’s nature and Hawaii. We also use Hawaiian motifs such as the pineapple and hibiscus.

3. A MUU-MUU FLORAL DRESS. Stay cool and look like you’re floating on air in one of these dresses that adds a splash of colour and keeps you comfortable.

EXPERIEN CE

STRETCH —Mastering the pigeon pose on a paddleboard is the latest fitness craze. Rachel Gray heads to a SUP yoga retreat in Byron Bay to find out what the fuss is about— A bright orange hibiscus flower floats on the water past my eyeline in this upside-down world. It seems so serene in contrast to the pain searing up the back of my thigh. With a burst of energy, I swing my right leg forward and plonk it on the paddleboard in front of me. Gripping the plastic with my hands on either side of my foot, I take a deep breath and lift my torso with my arms outstretched, turning the world the right way up as I follow my instructor into the warrior two pose. I shake, the board wobbles but I miraculously stay on, in this, my first attempt at stand-up paddleboard (SUP) yoga on Byron Bay’s Belongil Creek in north-eastern NSW. I’m at a retreat run by Charlotte Piho, the woman known as the “SUP yoga guru” and “the real Moana” after the Disney film character. Charlotte is credited as being one of the pioneers of this trending wellness activity – she even wrote the training manual for aspiring instructors in Australia. Ever since she swan dived her way into a sun salutation – on a paddleboard – in 2007, SUP yoga has shown no signs of slowing down.

Charlotte’s Byron Bay retreats are held throughout the year at the Belongil River House – a doublestorey beachfront homestay with a backyard that runs into the three-kilometre Belongil Creek – located a 35-minute drive from the Ballina Byron Gateway Airport.

On our first day, we yawn into dawn with a bleary-eyed 5am start. There are eight of us, a mix of experienced paddleboarders and beginners like me. The last floatation device I stood on was a ship so I must admit I am slightly nervous about balancing this 11-kilogram inflatable

T HE DE TA IL S W H ERE Byron Bay, NSW. PRICE From $780 per person.

D AT ES 8–11, 12–15, 21–24 February; 15–18, 18–21 April and 9–12 May. Charlotte also runs retreats on the NSW South Coast, in Tahiti and the Cook Islands. workoutonwater.com

E AT paddleboard from Red Paddle Co (redpaddleco.com) with only my two feet and a long-handled paddle. We push the boards into the murky water (it is stained a rusty brown by the tannin from the tea tree leaves lining the banks), then glide out sitting cross-legged on the board.

I make a wobbly attempt to kneel and after a few tries find the confidence to stand up. The board makes ripples across the water and, distracted by the thought of what lurks beneath, I fall only to discover it’s ankle-deep. The shallow creek bed is pock-marked with tiny crab holes, indicating its inhabitants are a lot less scary than I’d thought. I quickly jump back onboard and follow Charlotte’s instructions as she gracefully moves through a series of yoga poses.

My downward dogs are more like “goanna falls” (repeated 10 times over) but I manage to stay afloat for the whole hour-long session, before we lazily paddleboard our way back to the house only minutes away.

The next four mornings kick off in pretty much the same way, followed by healthy breakfasts of eggs, fruit and coconut yoghurt. Our homecooked lunches and dinners, served on large palm leaves, are equally healthy and always delicious, with fish, lentils, quinoa and kale making regular appearances. This provides

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R E P E AT CHARLOT TE LEADS A SUP YO GA SESSIO N

C HILL

ample fuel to power through the other activities included in the retreat â&#x20AC;&#x201C; from splashing in the Byron Bay surf to browsing local markets and trekking through the bushland to Killen Falls, where the waterfall drops 10 metres into a swimming lagoon framed by ancient rocks and rainforest. Another highlight was watching the sunset at Cape Byron, Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most easterly point, where the wind whips low

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melodic tunes through the historic, still-functioning lighthouse.

Sufficiently SUP-skilled, we went paddleboarding in the Brunswick River and had the opportunity to flex our new-found skills solo, during pockets of downtime.

On our last day out on the water, I felt confident enough to paddle out past breaking waves, where we spotted a lone turtle before our group was caught up in a traffic jam with an army of passing kayakers on the vast open ocean. It was the perfect way to end a long weekend that left me relaxed, recharged and ready to take on the real traffic jams and other stresses of the big city... at least until the next time I take out a board.

3 OT HER PL ACES TO TRY SUP YOGA > Stand-Up Paddle, SA. Breathe in fresh ocean air as you stretch and strengthen on a board outside the Brighton and Seacliff Yacht Club, south of Adelaide. standuppaddlesa.com.au > SUP Shellharbour, NSW. You can try SUP yoga surrounded by nature on Lake Illawarra, about 90 minutes drive south of Sydney Airport. supshellharbour.com > Kitewest SUP Yoga Retreat, Bali. Indulge in SUP yoga, meditation, massages and organic food bliss at this sevenday retreat in the Balinese coastal town of Sanur. kitewest.com.au

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S TREE T S T YLE

HARAJUKU

TOKYO DRESS UPS + VINTAGE —Home to the quirkiest vintage boutiques and coolest high-street stores, Japan’s capital of cute is a must-visit for a little retail therapy—

< THE LOOK > DESIGNER LABELS, COSPLAY, VINTAGE AND STREET STYLE – FASHION IS ALL ABOUT HAVING FUN AND USING YOUR IMAGINATION IN TOKYO’S HARAJUKU NEIGHBOURHOOD, WHERE YOU CAN BE WHOEVER YOU WANT TO BE, AS LONG AS YOU’RE UNIQUE.

> TAKESHITA STREET. OK, so this is not a shop but it is the beating heart of the Harajuku district. At about 400 metres long and bursting with independent boutiques and chain stores, selling everything from costumes to cool scrunchies, it’s a must-visit if you want to see where “kawaii” (cute Japanese fashion culture) was born.

It’s particularly crowded on weekends but stand still and let the wild and wonderful Harajuku world pass you by.

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THE ESSENTIALS.

TO A TEE It’s casual but cool when you top off with a printed tee. (‘Eagle Shield’ crop T-shirt, $59.95, generalpants.com)

EYE SPY

Timu/TokyoFashion.com, Kira/TokyoFashion.com

Oversized is out. Thin, geometric and prim is in. (‘Throw Shade’ sunglasses, $79.95,gluestore.com.au)

> W C.

> DOG.

A favourite among the girly set, this is an affordable, unashamedly pretty – and predominantly pink – collection. From pink sequined sandshoes to musk coloured headbands and tiny crimson handbags, you will either overdose on sweetness here or have the best fun you’ve ever had shopping in your life. www.wcwcwc.jp

A serious hangout for serious fashionistas: this legendary vintage store magically mixes fantasy and fashion. Even if the embossed leather jackets, graffitied overalls and printed tees are not your style, it’s worth a visit to experience the creative energy and explosion of Harajuku fabulousness. dog-hjk.com

> WEGO.

Where can you find Hello Kitty, Mickey Mouse, Miffy, Pikachu, Snoopy and Rapunzel all having a dinner of fairy-floss together? Kiddy Land’s flagship toy shop is a five-story mecca of all things cute, cuddly and cartoony and will deliver (more than a trip to any designer store) a colourful dose of Harajuku style inspiration. kiddyland.co.jp

A break from costumes, Wego is a haven of street style. The Japanese chain store knows how to deliver style-cred with a tiny price tag. Young, cool and cutting edge, it’s where you will find hordes of giggling teens – and those who want to be young again – checking out racks of mini skirts, tiny shorts and vintage-inspired T-shirts. wego.jp

SNEAKY SOUNDS It’s the trend that won’t stop kicking – the relaxed sandshoe. (White leather sneakers, $79.95, zara.com)

> KIDDY LAND.

CHECK IT Looking for fabric that’s equal parts fun and sophisticated?

Go for plaid. (Cropped pants in Tartan Check, $60, asos.com)

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T HE C U T

1

FAS HIO N

Geared for adventure

2

—Ready to conquer your travel goals? Just add a little style, comfort and an adrenaline rush— 9

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From day...

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Jetstar news

STAFF Q+A. NAME LAURA TURNER POSITION SECOND OFFICER B787 (CADET)

What does being a cadet second officer mean? > Essentially, it is being a third pilot – this helps reduce the workload of the other pilots, enabling tasks to be finished efficiently and also allows the crew to interchange with sleeping on some international routes.

MAKING ENDS MEET

StarKids donations are helping to give low-income households in Indonesia access to beneficial savings and credit programs.

> In the small village of Balane in Indonesia’s Central Sulawesi

province, Ratni takes her seat and waits for the other people to arrive. She is meeting with a group of villagers who are participating in a savings and borrowing program.

With help from StarKids, Wahana Visi Indonesia (World Vision Indonesia) runs the Accumulating Saving and Credit Association (ASCA), a program that provides communities and low-income households with the chance to accumulate savings together, share experiences and take small, flexible loans from the group’s funds.

Ratni is the leader of an ASCA group in her village and has worked with Wahana Visi for eight years. Initially, she struggled to find villagers willing to participate in the program but Balane now has three active groups. Ratni explains that, at each meeting, members contribute a set amount of money as savings and are able to receive up to three times the amount as a small, low-interest rate loan.

“A few months ago, I borrowed Rp800,000 [Indonesian Rupiah]. In ASCA, we can borrow and pay it back with interest.

Interest is only paid once. Then we only pay the rest of the main loan,” she says. “This meant I had enough money to pay school fees and buy school uniforms for my children.”

Many other families from Ratni’s village have joined the ASCA program and have been able to enjoy the benefits of financial support that helps overcome poverty.

Through facilitating access to savings groups, World Vision, in partnership with StarKids, is helping to create lasting change for low-income families. In 2017, more than 500,00 people participated in 32,081 savings groups, which provided them with the financial assistance to meet basic needs such as their children’s nutrition, healthcare and education.

How long have you worked at Jetstar and how did you get here? > Since August 2018. Before this, I did my flying training through the Jetstar Cadet Pilot Program – it’s an intensive 18-month program where cadets receive an associate degree of aviation with Swinburne University and a commercial pilot’s licence at the end. The program provides targeted, fast-tracked learning that prepares us for industry flying.

Did you always want to be a pilot?

> For as long as I can remember...

If you ask my parents, it was obvious from a young age that this was my passion – I’d get so excited to go on family holidays for the aeroplane ride!

I used to run outside every time I heard a plane flying overhead to see what colour ‘belly’ it had (orange was my favourite), even if the clouds were so dense I could only hear it. Over the years I got better at identifying planes just by the sound of their engines.

What’s the best part of your job?

> My favourite thing is how the stars look from 43,000 feet up.

T HE IN SIDER

111

HOW DO YOU BEAT JET L AG?

Jetstar pilot and author, Brett Manders, has flown 10,000+ hours.

Here, he reveals the ways to trick your body into overcoming jetlag.

> This topic could be a book in

itself and I don’t necessarily have it conquered either. There probably are as many theories [about jet lag] as there are flights in the day. It really depends on how long you will be in your destination.

Generally flying “west is best” as you are extending your circadian rhythm. Flying east is harder as you are trying to compress your circadian rhythm. Your circadian rhythm is basically an internal clock that is running in the background of your brain and cycles between sleepiness and alertness at regular intervals. It can also be referred to as your sleep/wake cycle.

So what does extend and compress your circadian rhythm mean? If you go to bed at 10pm, it is quite easy to stay awake for another two hours if you’re flying west. For the most part it is harder to go to bed earlier, say 8pm, if you’re flying east.

> Brett answers all your questions about flying in his book, Behind the Flight Deck Door (Atlantis Media, $20).

You can try to get in the new time zone as quick as you can or if it’s a short visit (often the case for aircrew) stay in your original time zone. It’s a good idea to use an alarm clock to wake up at your new morning time. Some might avoid alcohol but alcohol can help you to relax. Some people say exercise, some people say nap. Some say fresh air, others say cold to sleep, warm for awake. Like I said, there are many theories but it really depends on your body, what you will be doing and for how long.

FACT FILE BOEING 787 DREAMLINER. NUMBER IN JETSTAR FLEET

11

AVG CRUISE SPEED MACH 0.85 (1049.58KM/H)

MAXIMUM TAKE-OFF WEIGHT 227,930KG NUMBER OF SEATS

335

21 BUSINESS 314 ECONOMY

WING SPAN 60.1M

M ORE SAVINGS O N YO UR BAGS! Purchase your baggage allowance when booking your flight and you could save over 50% on the price you'd pay at the airport.

T HE IN SIDER

113

In-flight Entertainment —Take off into a world of entertainment – we’ve rounded up today’s most talked-about movies and TV shows, plenty of kids’ favourites, plus hit music and podcasts to keep you occupied throughout your flight— MORE THAN 50 MOVIES AND 500 TV EPISODES AVAILABLE

ONLY $10 BLOCKBUSTER MOVIES TV COMEDY AND DRAMA KIDS’ FAVOURITES HIT MUSIC PODCASTS

> NEW RELEASE MOVIES.

© 2018 Paramount Pictures

Instant Family

A Simple Favour

Comedy | PG Pete and Ellie go from zero to three kids overnight when they discover the world of adoption.

Comedy, Crime, Drama | M A mummy vlogger uncovers the truth behind her friend’s mysterious disappearance.

© 2018 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.

Bohemian Rhapsody Drama, Biography | M A celebration of British rock band Queen and their lead singer Freddie Mercury. © 2018 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.

Bad Times at the El Royale

The Happytime Murders

Crime | MA15+ Seven strangers, each carrying a dark secret, meet by chance at the run-down El Royale hotel.

Comedy | MA15+ Two detectives, one human and one puppet, must work together to solve several puppet murders.

RATINGS

© 2018 Universal City Studio Productions LLC. All Rights Reserved.

Johnny English Strikes Again Comedy, Action | PG When all its active agents are exposed, MI7 must call its most inept agent into action.

The Sisters Brothers Adventure, Comedy | MA15+ Brothers and assassins Charlie and Eli Sisters hunt down a gold prospector in 1850s Oregon.

G General.

PG Parental guidance recommended.

M Recommended for mature audiences.

MA15+ Not suitable for people under 15.

Under 15s must be accompanied by a parent or adult guardian.

PRE-PURCHASE IN-FLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT WHEN YOU BOOK YOUR FLIGHTS AND SAVE!

Need to pack more carry-on baggage?

You can now purchase extra carry-on to bring your total weight allowance up to 10kgs* Find out more at jetstar.com * Purchase an extra +3kg on top of the 7kg carry-on allowance for a total 10kg weight limit. Size restrictions apply.

Limited availability per flight. Not available for bookings to, from or within Vietnam.

115

© 2017 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.

EN T ER TA IN MEN T

> FAMILY MOVIES.

© 2019 WBEI

Smallfoot Animation | PG A bright, young Yeti finds something he thought didn’t exist – a human.

> WINNERS & NOMINEES. Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri Comedy | MA15+ Mildred Hayes goes to war against her local police force. © 2018 Disney

The Nutcracker and the Four Realms Adventure, Fantasy | PG Clara is transported to a mysterious parallel world in search of a special key.

©2018 Disney

Freaky Friday (2018)

The Blind Side

The Shape of Water

Drama, Sport | PG An oversized teenager goes from being homeless to a star athlete.

Drama | MA15+ Elisa and co-worker Zelda discover a secret classified experiment.

Gravity

The Martian

Sci-Fi | M On a routine spacewalk, disaster strikes an engineer on her first shuttle mission.

Sci-Fi | M During a mission to Mars, Astronaut Mark Watney is left behind by his crew.

Argo

Avatar

Biography, Thriller | M CIA operative Tony Mendez sets out to rescue American diplomats in 1979 Tehran.

Fantasy | M An ex-marine finds himself going to war and falling in love on an alien planet. © 2019 WBEI

Family | PG What happens when you swap bodies with your mum? Teen Ellie finds out.

The House with a Clock in Its Walls

The Curious Case of Benjamin Button

Fantasy | PG An orphan and his magical uncle must find a clock with the power to end the world.

Drama, Fantasy, Romance | M Benjamin Button is born as an 80-year-old man in post-WWI New Orleans and lives his life aging in reverse.

EN T ER TA IN MEN T

117

> ROMCOMS.

© 2009 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.

Bride Wars

You’ve Got Mail

Comedy, Romance | PG Two best friends become rivals when a clerical error schedules their weddings on the same day.

Comedy, Romance | PG Two business rivals, who despise each other in real life, fall in love in an anonymous chat room.

© 2019 WBEI

© 1999 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.

Never Been Kissed

© 2019 WBEI

Crazy, Stupid, Love

Two Weeks Notice

Comedy, Romance | M When Cal’s wife leaves him, a new friend teaches him how to pick up women at bars.

Comedy, Romance | PG Lucy calls it quits and gives her boss her two weeks’ notice. Now she must hire her replacement.

© 2005 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.

Comedy, Romance | PG A 25-year-old reporter must go undercover as a teenager in a high school for a story.

© 2019 WBEI

> FOREIGN FILMS.

> FAVOURITE MOVIES. The Island (2018)

Mr. & Mrs. Smith

The Day After Tomorrow

Action | M A typical married couple find out they are both assassins and each other’s next target.

Action | M A climatologist tries to figure out a way to save humanity from a deadly superstorm.

Speed

Mrs. Doubtfire

Detective Conan: Zero the Enforcer

Action | M A fearless Los Angeles cop finds himself trapped on a runaway city bus rigged with explosives.

Comedy, Drama | PG A man dresses up as a female housekeeper so his ex-wife will hire him to watch his own kids.

Animation Detective Conan investigates an explosion at the opening of a large Tokyo resort and convention centre.

Comedy, Drama | M A man who dreams of winning the lottery gets stranded on an island with an odd group of co-workers.

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EN T ER TA IN MEN T

> TELEVISION.

© 1998-1999 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.

© 2018 FX Productions, LLC. All rights reserved.

Buffy the Vampire Slayer (Season 3)

Puppy Dog Pals (Season 1)

Drama | M Buffy Summers, a teenage girl who yearns to be normal despite being gifted with the strength and skill to hunt vampires, must battle the forces of darkness, tackle young adulthood and learn to embrace her destiny.

Kids | G What do pug puppies and brothers Bingo and Rolly like to do when they’re not on a mission? They play, of course!

Join the fun-loving duo and their backyard pals as they play games and set off on their next adventure.

© 2018 FX Productions, LLC. All rights reserved. MARVEL TM & © 2018 MARVEL

© Sky UK Ltd.

A Discovery of Witches (Season 1)

Landmarks Live in Concert

Drama | MA15+ A bewitched manuscript leads historian Diana into the heart of a dangerous mystery, forcing her to embrace her heritage.

Lifestyle World-famous musicians perform at world-famous landmarks, captivating viewers in an expansive doco-travel experience.

© 2018 FX Productions, LLC. All rights reserved.

Atlanta (Seasons 1-2) Comedy | M In an attempt to make something of themselves and better the lives of their families, cousins Earn and Alfred take on the rap music scene in Atlanta.

© Disney

Mickey and the Roadster Racers (Season 1) Kids | G Mickey, Donald, Goofy, Minnie and Daisy take their transforming roadsters in races around town.

Legion (Seasons 1-2) Drama | MA15+ David Haller, a troubled man who believed he was schizophrenic, discovers that, instead, he could be the most powerful mutant who has ever lived.

© Disney

Elena of Avalor (Season 2) Kids | G Princess Elena befriends the mysterious Sirenas in their underwater world and uses her power to help all the people of Avalor.

© 2018 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All rights reserved.

Jackie Chan’s Green Heroes

Finding My Twin Stranger

Lifestyle | PG Jackie Chan is on a mission to test the world’s first fully mobile plastics recycling machine in one of the harshest environments.

Lifestyle Ever wondered if there’s someone out there who looks exactly like you? The experts tests see if there’s more to it than coincidence.

A captivating exploration of the psychology and science behind one of life’s great mysteries – love. The perfect read this Valentine’s Day.

@BloomsburySyd BloomsburyPublishingAustralia

Three girls went out to play Only two came back…

Don’t miss the addictive new thriller that has everyone talking.

Bestselling author Johann Hari presents a radical way of thinking about depression and anxiety, one that offers real hope.

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EN T ER TA IN MEN T

> MUSIC VIDEOS.

Backstreet Boys

> ALBUMS. A Star Is Born Lady Gaga and Bradley Cooper The official soundtrack to the hit 2018 musical film of the same name includes 19 songs and 15 dialogue tracks from the moments that follow the musical arc and mirror the experience of watching the film.

Solastalgia Missy Higgins Beloved Australian singersongwriter Missy Higgins is back with her fifth studio album. The album’s title is a mashup of “solace” and “nostalgia” – a reference to the kind of distress caused by environmental change close to your home.

> PODCASTS & RADIO.

Osher Günsberg

Lost Friends Middle Kids The debut album from Sydney-based alternative indie band Middle Kids sees Hannah Joy, Tim Fitz and Harry Day mix a subtle alt-country flavour with an acute sense of melody and layers of complex and heartfelt emotion.

Volver Plácido Domingo and Pablo Sáinz Villegas World-renowned opera tenor Plácido Domingo and global ambassador of the Spanish guitar Pablo Sáinz Villegas come together in this celebration of famous Iberian and Latin American songs.

Osher Günsberg Podcast Hughesy and Kate Chrissie, Sam and Browny Kate, Tim and Marty I Don’t Know How She Does It – Girls Jonesy and Amanda Aussies in Hollywood Crappy to Happy with Tiff Hall and Cass Dunn Feed Play Love

New Hits Various The freshest new clips from today’s biggest artists, featuring Sigala, The Chainsmokers, Holy Holy, Tom Walker, Amy Shark, Imagine Dragons, Zara Larsson, Khalid, Rüfüs Du Sol, Guy Sebastian and 5 Seconds of Summer.

00s + 10s Various Millennium hits for you to enjoy, featuring Pete Murray, Jebediah, Avril Lavigne, NSYNC, Pitbull and Kesha, Omi, Usher, Lupe Fiasco, Train and many more.

90s Various Daryl Braithwaite, Backstreet Boys, Savage Garden, Midnight Oil, George Michael, TLC, Augie March and Boyz II Men are some of the 90s hit music artists included in this line-up.

80s Various Featuring awesome 80s clips from Michael Jackson, Wham!, Eurythmics, The Church, Run DMC and Aerosmith, Air Supply, Cyndi Lauper and Herbie Hancock.

The Pass food podcast Kennedy Molloy The Coach with Paul Roos Fitzy and Wippa A Plate to Call Home with Gary Mehigan The Property Couch Fifi, Fev and Byron We Fact Up Will and Woody

Hitched The Mentor with Mark Bouris Birth, Baby and Beyond with Midwife Cath Kyle and Jackie O Carrie and Tommy The Grill Team Gold FM Jase and PJ The Slow Home Podcast

Turn their ‘some day’ into a holiday.

Available from leading retailers now!

• Choice of $50 or $100 cards • Use on a range of Jetstar products • Get online gift vouchers at jetstar.com

These cards can be used on jetstar.com to book flights, or flights plus accommodation/activities in one transaction.

For Australian dollar gift cards, bookings can be made in Australian dollars on our Jetstar Australia site only.

Jetstar Airways Pty Ltd – ABN: 33 069 720 243.

SYDNEY. >

TAXI ABOUT $45

>

>

AIRPORT TO CIT Y Touching down in a new city?

Here's how to get to the centre of the action your way.

>

TAXI ABOUT $40

>

BUS $4.80 Bus Route 380, which takes its name from the Airbus A380 aircraft, departs T1 and T2 and is a limited stops service, terminating at Elizabeth Quay Bus Station in the city centre.

For those travelling from T3 and T4, Route 40 operates daily between the airport and Elizabeth Quay Bus Station.

>

TIP...

The Experience WA smartphone app gives you access to the latest information on local tourist attractions, restaurants, accommodation, transport options and more.

TRAIN $18.70 Catching a train into the city is easy and takes about 10 minutes. Grab the T8 Airport and South Line towards City Circle, which stops at Central Station.

> BUS $5.80 While it does not head into the CBD, Route 400 operates between Bondi Junction in the city’s east and Burwood in the west.

You can catch the bus from outside the T1 International and T3 Domestic terminals. > TIP...

Trains and buses from the airport start around 5am daily and end at midnight.

ADELAIDE.

PERTH. “THERE’S ONE THING I ALWAYS BRING ON TRIPS. YOU MIGHT TEASE ME BUT IT’S A GIRLY ACCESSORY: HIGH-HEELED SHOES! THEY QUICKLY MAKE MY OUTFITS MORE ‘GAGA’.”

LADY GAGA

>

MELBOURNE. (TULLAMARINE)

TAXI ABOUT $30

>

BUS $10.40 (DAYTRIP) The JetBus and doubledecker JetExpress airport to city services depart the terminal from Sir Richard Williams Avenue and stop at Currie Street in the city centre. From there, it is just a short walk to Adelaide Oval, Rundle Mall and the city’s main train station on North Terrace.

> TIP...

If you are staying in the city of churches for the weekend, purchase a $25 Metrocard Visitor Pass.

The ticket gives tourists unlimited travel on buses, trains and trams across three consecutive days.

TAXI ABOUT $65

>

BUS $19.50 The Skybus Melbourne City Express departs the airport every 10 minutes and stops at the busy inner city Southern Cross Station. From there, you can catch another bus, train, tram or slip into a cab at the taxi stand located directly outside on Spencer Street.

> TIP...

Explore the CBD onboard the free City Circle tourist tram between 10am and 9pm from Thursday to Saturday and between 10am and 6pm from Sunday to Wednesday.

MELBOURNE. (AVALON)

> TAXI ABOUT $130 TO MELBOURNE, $50 TO GEELONG >

BUS $22 TO MELBOURNE, $18 TO GEELONG The SkyBus Avalon City Express takes about an hour to travel from Avalon Airport to Southern Cross Station in Melbourne CBD. If you are heading to Geelong, the SkyBus Avalon Geelong Express takes about 40 minutes to reach the port town.

> TIP...

Download the handy Avalon Airport smartphone app for information about transport, car hire, parking and flight schedules.

T HE IN SIDER

BRISBANE.

GOLD COAST.

>

>

TAXI ABOUT $45

> TRAIN $18.50 The Airtrain is a quick and easy option for travelling from the airport into the city. Trains depart every 15 minutes during peak hour and every 30 minutes during off-peak periods.

The Airtrain takes just 20 minutes to get to Central Station in the city centre.

The service starts at 5am on weekdays and 6am on weekends and the last train departs at 10pm. >

TIP...

Download the BNE app to help you find transport options, maps, where to dine and shop, parking information and more.

>

TAXI ABOUT $30

> BUS $6 The Airport Connect bus departs from Cairns Airport every 30 minutes from 4.30am until the last flight of the day. The bus takes passengers on a 10-minute trip to a bus depot at Sheridan Street in the city, where they can continue their journey on a Translink public bus.

Alternatively, you can book a shuttle into the city for $6 one-way with Backpacker Shuttle Cairns. > TIP...

It is not a joke – crocs are about! Look out for the red and yellow signs around town and stay croc aware.

HOBART.

TAXI ABOUT $60

“I ALWAYS TAKE A BATHING SUIT. EVEN IF I’M GOING TO ALASKA, I’LL TAKE IT. JUST IN CASE I GET SOME FREE TIME IN THE HOTEL POOL.” MARTHA STEWART

> BUS $21 The SkyBus Gold Coast Airport Shuttle operates seven days a week and is a dedicated service for visitors travelling from the airport to the Gold Coast’s most popular tourist spots. The shuttle departs from outside the airport terminal and stops at Burleigh Heads, Broadbeach, Surfers Paradise and Southport.

“I LEARNED A LONG TIME AGO THAT TRYING TO MICROMANAGE THE PERFECT VACATION IS ALWAYS A DISASTER. THAT LEADS TO TERRIBLE TIMES.” ANTHONY BOURDAIN

>

TAXI ABOUT $50

>

BUS $19.50 The SkyBus Hobart Express service operates daily and departs regularly from the airport. The bus takes about 30 minutes to travel to the city centre, stopping at Brooke street Pier before terminating at 19 Macquarie Street, which is located behind the Grand Chancellor Hotel.

> TIP...

Download the Hobart Cabs 131 008 smartphone app to order and track your taxi from the airport.

For everything to see, eat, sleep, shop and play in Hobart, get The Guides

by Lonely Planet app.

> TIP...

Gold Coast Cabs offer special flat rate fares from the airport to accommodation located in Surfers Paradise ($65) or Broadbeach ($55).

CAIRNS.

123

BALLINA.

DARWIN.

> TAXI ABOUT $100 TO BYRON BAY

>

>

BUS $7.20 The Route 640 bus from Ballina Airport takes close to an hour to make the 37-kilometre journey to the popular beachside town of Byron Bay.

> TIP...

If you prefer to have your transport organised and booked in advance, check out the Ballina Byron Gateway Airport website for information about shuttle bus services.

For those who want to explore and find their own way, all major car rental companies are represented at the airport.

TAXI ABOUT $30

>

BUS PRICE ON BOOKING The Darwin City Airport Shuttle Service is available seven days a week to take you from the airport to your accommodation in the city. The shuttle departs every 20 minutes during peak period and services all major flights to the airport. Online bookings must be made 24 hours in advance.

> TIP...

If you are staying at the Mercure Darwin Airport Resort or Novotel Darwin Airport Hotel, a free shuttle bus service is available for transfer from the terminal to your accommodation.

BALI. >

TOKYO. (NARITA AIRPORT)

TAXI ABOUT $7 TO KUTA

>

>

BUS $2 There are a range of bus options to choose from but a popular choice is the bright green Kura-Kura tourist bus, which stops at most major locations across the island. The closest departure point to the airport is outside the Aston Kuta Hotel, which is a brisk 16-minute walk from the terminal.

TAXI ABOUT $250

>

>

“ONCE A YEAR GO SOME PLACE YOU HAVE NEVER BEEN BEFORE.” DALAI LAMA

TRAIN $37 The Narita Express or N’EX departs every 25 to 40 minutes and takes under an hour to reach Tokyo Station. Buy your ticket at JR EAST Travel Service Centers, which are located inside each of the three airport terminals.

> BUS $11 The Keisei group’s Tokyo Shuttle takes 90 minutes to reach the city centre near Tokyo Station.

> TIP...

Knowing how to say a few phrases in the local lingo can go a long way in Bali.

To ask a local to help you call for a taxi, try saying, “Bisa tolong untuk telepon dan order taksi?”

OSAKA. (KANSAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT)

> TIP...

Grab the free shuttle to travel between the airport’s three terminals.

TAXI ABOUT $250

> TRAIN $28 Ride the Kansai Airport Express Haruka to Tennoji Station. There you can easily catch another train to Osaka or stay on the same train and head directly to Kyoto, which takes about 75 minutes. >

BUS $19 Travel in luxury aboard the Kansai International Airport Limousine Bus, which will take you directly to Osaka or Kyoto (for $31).

> TIP...

Taxis are expensive. Travel by train or bus instead.

HO CHI MINH CITY.

SINGAPORE.

FIJI.

>

>

> TAXI ABOUT $10 TO NADI

TAXI ABOUT $10

> BUS $1 The Route 109 bus departs the airport every 15 to 20 minutes between 5.30am and 1am. The bus travels to the city centre (District 1), terminating at 23/9 Park via Pham Ngu Lao backpacker district and the Ben Thanh bus station.

Travel time depends on traffic, but the yellow bus generally takes about 30 minutes to reach the city. > TIP...

Show the name of your hotel to the bus conductor so the driver can tell you where to get off. It is also handy to have a map available on your phone.

TAXI ABOUT $35

> TRAIN $2 The Changi Airport MRT Station (CG2) is located under Terminal 2. Take the train to Tanah Merah station and change to the East West Line heading towards City Hall. > BUS $9 The City Shuttle bus departs every 15 minutes during peak periods and every 30 minutes during off-peak. The trip to the city takes 25 minutes and stops at most major hotels. > TIP...

Save your roaming budget and connect to the free Wi-Fi at Changi Airport.

“I ENJOY TRAVELLING WITH PEOPLE WHO ARE CURIOUS ABOUT LIFE.” DIANE VON FURSTENBERG

>

BUS $11 Airport Shuttle Fiji operate a 24-hour shuttle service from Nadi International Airport to most major hotels and resorts in Nadi.

Bookings must be made at least one day prior to arriving at the airport.

> TIP...

It is an offence for taxi drivers to take passengers without having their meter running. If your driver is not using a meter, note the taxi registration number and report it to the police.

The driver may have their license suspended and receive a fine.

A IRP O R T T O CI T Y

AUCKLAND. >

TAXI ABOUT $60

> BUS $16 The SkyBus departs the airport every 10 minutes and takes approximately 55 minutes to arrive in the centre of Auckland.

Alternatively, Super Shuttle can take you straight to your accommodation for $23 for the first passenger and $9 for every extra passenger travelling in the same group. >

TIP...

The Auckland Transport mobile app makes it easy to move around the city.

Download the app to help you plan and track AT Metro buses, trains and ferry services in real time.

QUEENSTOWN. >

TAXI ABOUT $25

> BUS $5 The Orbus departs the airport every 15 minutes and takes approximately 25 minutes to reach the town centre. For $13, you can opt to share an 11-seater Super Shuttle for a convenient, tailored door-to-door journey from Queenstown Airport to your accommodation. > TIP...

If your accommodation is anywhere in the centre of Queenstown, you can simply rely on foot power to get around – most things in the adventure capital are within easy walking distance.

HONG KONG. >

TAXI ABOUT $50

>

TRAIN $20 The Airport Express departs every 10 minutes and takes around 24 minutes to reach Hong Kong Station in the bustling business district.

>

BUS $6 The Cityflyer route A21 is ideal for travellers heading into the city and perfect for those who want a preview of Hong Kong from the bus window.

Buses depart every 15-20 minutes from the airport.

> TIP...

Download the MTR Next Train app to keep track of real-time train schedules.

125

HAWAII. (DANIEL K INOUYE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT)

> TAXI ABOUT $61 TO WAIKIKI >

BUS $4 Routes 19 and 20 depart from the second-level roadway at Honolulu Airport and stop off at downtown Honolulu, Ala Moana Shopping Centre and the hotel-dense Waikiki precinct.

> TIP...

Taxi drivers are referred to as “ambassadors of aloha”.

They are proud of their island and love pointing out landmarks and places of interest. Ask questions – you never know what local secrets you might learn.

WHERE WE FLY Here’s how to get around our network – have fun planning your next trip.

INTERNATIONAL. Tokyo (Narita)

Zhengzhou Shanghai (Pudong) Shantou Guangzhou Chiang Mai

Dong Hoi

Phuket Penang Medan

Nagoya (Chubu)

Okinawa Taipei

Hong Kong Haikou Sanya

Hanoi

Da Nang Siem Reap Bangkok Phnom Penh

Yangon

Osaka (Kansai)

Hawaii (Honolulu)

Clark

Manila

Ho Chi Minh City Kuala Lumpur

Singapore Jakarta Surabaya

Bali (Denpasar) Darwin Fiji (Nadi)

Cairns

Cook Islands (Rarotonga)

Brisbane

Gold Coast

Perth

Sydney Adelaide

Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Jetstar Asia Operated by Jetstar Pacific Operated by Jetstar Japan

Auckland

Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Wellington Christchurch Queenstown

T HE IN SIDER

DOMESTIC VIETNAM.

127

DOMESTIC JAPAN.

Hanoi Sapporo

Hai Phong Thanh Hoa Vinh Dong Hoi Nagoya (Chubu)

Hue Da Nang Chu Lai

Matsuyama Osaka Fukuoka Takamatsu Nagasaki Oita Kochi Kumamoto Miyazaki Kagoshima

Quy Nhon

Pleiku

Tokyo (Narita) (Kansai)

Tuy Hoa Buon Ma Thuot Nha Trang Da Lat

Okinawa

Ho Chi Minh City

Phu Quoc

Miyako (Shimojishima)

Flights are operated by Jetstar Japan and commence 30 March (Tokyo-Miyako), subject to regulatory approval

Operated by Jetstar Pacific

Operated by Jetstar Japan

AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND.

Auckland New Plymouth

Darwin

Nelson Cairns Townsville Hamilton Island Whitsunday Coast Mackay

Queenstown

Sunshine Coast

Ayers Rock (Uluru)

Brisbane

Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Eastern Australia Airlines for Jetstar Airways

Gold Coast Newcastle

Sydney

Adelaide

Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Auckland

Melbourne (Avalon) Wellington

Launceston Hobart

Operated by Jetstar Airways

Christchurch Queenstown

Palmerston North Wellington

Christchurch Dunedin

Ballina Byron Perth

Napier

PUZZLES 1

2

3

4

5

6

Across 7 Kenny star, Shane ... (8) 8 First name of picture A (4) 9 Common language, lingua ... (6) 11 Australian golfer who is a twotime winner of the US Women’s Open, ... Webb (5) 13 Sculpture showroom (7) 15 Bermudas or boxers (6) 16 WWI general who features on the Australian $100 note, Sir John ... (6) 17 Abandoned (7) 21 Eyeball layer (6) 22 Floating free (6) 24 First name of picture B (4) 25 Major ocean (8)

8

7

11

10

9

12

13 14 16

15

17

18

21

19

20

22

24

23

25

© Lovatts Puzzles

PICTURE A

PICTURE B

PICTURE C

QUIZ 1 What year was the world’s first feature film, The Story of the Kelly Gang, filmed in Melbourne?

2 In which northern NSW city will you find the 12-metre tall big golden guitar?

3 In Australian slang, the nickname “bluey” is given to someone who has what colour hair?

4 Spanning two Australian states, what large area of flat, dry land

5 6

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8

CROSSWORD AND PUZZLES COMPILED BY LOVATTS

CROSSWORD

derives its name from the Latin terminology for “no trees”?

Who is the eldest granddaughter of Queen Elizabeth II? The National Carillon and the National Arboretum are located in which Australian capital city?

Iconic landmark the Sydney Harbour Bridge opened to the public in what year?

Margaret River and Swan Valley are wine regions of which Australian state?

Down 1 Nanny, au ... (4) 2 AC/DC guitarists, brothers Angus and Malcolm ... (5) 3 Customary (5) 4 Serpent (5) 5 Journal (5) 6 Most nondescript (8) 10 Senior pilot (7) 12 Moved directly, towards (7) 14 Two-time winner of the prestigious Archibald Prize, Brett ... (8) 17 Actor and TV presenter, Ernie ... (5) 18 Australian Greens politician, ... Hanson-Young (5) 19 First name of picture C (5) 20 Aerial camera device (5) 23 Australian national anthem, “Advance Australia ...” (4)

9 Camellia sinensis, a species of evergreen shrub, is cultivated in many parts of the world to produce what?

10 What was the flagship of the First Fleet, which arrived at Port Jackson on 26 January 1788?

11 Rush Hour, Shanghai Noon and The Accidental Spy all starred which Hong Kongese actor (pictured far right)?

12 In the 2016 Summer Olympics in Rio, Fiji won a gold medal,

T HE IN SIDER

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the country’s first ever Olympic medal, for what sporting event?

13 Egg-laying mammals, such as the echidna and platypus, are also known as what?

14 What is the name of the Dutch explorer who claims to have first sighted New Zealand in 1642?

15 Aviation terms “fuselage” and “empennage” come from which romance language?

16 Singapore is on which side of the equator: north or south?

H N

Create words of 4 letters or more using the given letters once only, but always including the middle letter. Do not use proper names or plurals ending with S. See if you can find the 9-letter word using up all letters.

16 good

26 very good

32+ excellent

17 What was the name of Kylie Minogue’s character in Neighbours?

18 Folk pop group The Seekers, the only group to have ever been named joint Australians of the Year, received the award in what year?

19 When a tropical cyclone occurs in the Atlantic Ocean and northeastern Pacific Ocean, the storm system is referred to as a what?

20 The NSW Blue Mountains’ famous and unusual rock formation is called the Three what?

SOLUTIONS ON PAGE 134

Find the solutions on page 134.

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What do you get when you cross a karate expert with a pig?

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If I drink, I die. If I eat, I am fine.

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Cauliflower.

You draw a line. Without touching it, how do you make the line longer?

C A N ARY C AT C HICKEN C OLL AR D O NKE Y G OL DFISH HER MI T CR AB K I T T ENS L IZ AR D MICE PIGL E TS P UPPIES R ABBI T TO RTOISE

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How can a pants pocket be empty and still have something in it?

What do you get when you cross a border collie and a daisy?

There are 14 pet-themed words hidden in the grid. Search up, down, forwards, backwards and diagonally for the words.

Can you find them all?

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You draw a shorter line next to it and it becomes the longer line.

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Can you spot the EIGHT DIFFERENCES between these two images? Circle what’s changed on the image below.

1 MOVIES Test your knowledge with these super fun, totally awesome trivia questions.

1 Which animated movie series is about a family of superheroes?

2 Which Disney princess sings the song, “Colours of the Wind”?

3 Which dragon rider lives on the island of Berk?

2 EARTH 1 True or false: Earth is the fifth-largest planet?

2 Water covers what percentage of Earth: around 50% or 70%?

3 What gas, other than nitrogen, is in Earth’s atmosphere?

3 FOOD 1 What is the main ingredient in guacamole?

2 What utensils are commonly used in Asian countries for eating?

3 What term is given to someone who does not eat meat?

131

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Where’s Wall s Ltd. All rights ok Bo er alk W published by

More things to find...

„

Two beekeepers

A globe

An ace of spades

A scarecrow

A fish fishing

A house

P U ZZLES

133

An apple tree

A fox

A dog

A telephone

A bull

A clown

A large butterfly

Clothes on the washing line

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SOLUTIONS CROSSWORD

U S D S O N I U A A A K A R L L E R Y R S M O N W S U S E D A A D R O R L A T L A N H E Y

P Y J A C O B U I F R A N C G A W P S H O R T I A T D I R E T I N L N D E N G O Y

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11 Jackie Chan 12 Rugby sevens 13 Monotremes 14 Abel Tasman 15 French 16 North 17 Charlene Robinson (Mitchell) 18 1967 19 A hurricane 20 Sisters

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Coma, Corm, Cram, Harm, Mach, Main, Mica, Mina, Moan, Morn, Norm, Roam, Amain, Amino, Anima, Aroma, Charm, Chirm, Ihram, Inarm, Macho, Macro, Mania, Manic, Manor, March, Micro, Minor, Mocha, Ohmic, Roman, Airman, Anomic, Caiman, Camion, Chroma, Macron, Maniac, Manioc, Marina, Micron, Mohair, Mahonia, Monarch, Nomarch, Chairman, Harmonic, Macaroni, Marocain.

9-letter word: HARMONICA

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1 1906 2 Tamworth 3 Red 4 Nullarbor Plain 5 Zara Tindall (née Phillips) 6 Canberra 7 1932 8 Western Australia 9 Tea 10 HMS Sirius

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1 The missing love heart door handle on the back cupboard.

2 The missing hands on the clockface.

3 The colour of Minnie’s bow.

4 The missing love heart on Minnie’s sleeve.

5 The colour of the stripes on the cake.

6 The extra eyelash on Minnie’s eyes.

7 The colour of Daisy Duck’s hair tie.

8 The missing frame detail on the door on the left.

Movies

Earth

Food

1 The Incredibles

1 True

1 Avocado

2 Pocahontas

2 Around 70%

2 Chopsticks

3 Hiccup (How to

3 Oxygen

3 Vegetarian

Train Your Dragon)

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The restaurant has been in its current CBD location for 36 years, and is the most awarded Japanese restaurant in Melbourne.

Be welcomed by friendly staff for an authentic Japanese dining experience.

Address: Collins Place, 45 Collins Street, Melbourne Tel: +61 (03) 9654 8933 Web: kenzan.com.au

136

T HE IN SIDER

H I G H E R. B I G G E R. F A S T E R. L O N G E R. E ACH ISSUE WE FO C US O N A PL ACE P U NCHIN G AB OVE I TS WEIG H T

EAST CAPE L IG H T H O U S E

N E W ZE AL A N D

> There’s something special about watching the sunrise but it’s even more spectacular when you’re the first in the world to do so.

It’s thought that Caroline Island (of the Kiribati nation) is the first place on earth to welcome a new day. However, since the island is uninhabited, New Zealand’s East Cape Lighthouse is one of the best places to actually see the planet’s first rays of sunshine.

Located on the North Island’s easternmost point, at 154 metres above sea level and 190 kilometres north of Gisborne, the lighthouse is accessed by a walking track with about 700 steps. The climb is worth it for the view of daylight breaking over the Pacific Ocean.

While Gisborne is the first city in the world to be touched by the sun’s rays in spring and summer, the earth’s curvature means that, come autumn and winter, the sun rises further north and Samoa’s capital, Apia, takes over the dawn crown.

In 2011, Samoa shifted to the western side of the International Date Line, skipping a day to become one of the first countries to glimpse sunrise. For now, at least, East Cape remains the most accessible for those who want to tick this off their bucket list.

@BAREKIWI

W O R D S _ K A I T LY N P A L M E R - A L L E N