Jetstar Australia Magazine — JUN 2019

JUN 2019

MAGAZINE

H IK I N G H A W A I I’S M O S T EPIC V OL C A N O

MAGAZINE

F R EE T O TA K E H O M E

C O OL A N D C O S Y A U S SIE W I N T ER ES C A PES U B U D: A V ERY DIFFERE N T FA M ILY PA R A DISE

HELLO SEOUL Take a closer look at the megacity surprising the world

JUN 2019

VIETNAM

SUNSHINE COAST

OSAKA

BANGKOK

HOBART

Q UEENSTO W N

M A NIL A

CAIRNS

C O OK ISL ANDS

16 March – 14 July 2019. British Royal Portraits.

Exhibition organised by the National Portrait Gallery, London.

Tickets bendigoartgallery.com.au Exclusive to Bendigo Art Gallery in Australia this exhibition features portraits of British royalty spanning 500 years, highlighting artists from Hans Holbein and Sir Joshua Reynolds to Andy Warhol and Annie Leibovitz.

Image: Lightness of Being, 2007 (NPG 6963), Copyright Š Chris Levine

#TudorsToWindsors

JUNE 2019

CONTENTS

the traveller W HERE T O G O N E X T

the checklist ALL T HE T R AVEL IN T EL YO U NEED N O W

0 1 6 7 M Y T H S A B O U T...

Cairns, Queensland.

0 1 8 T R AV E L T R E N D S:

HOT SPRINGS

Want to relax? Soak your stresses away in these steamy pools.

0 2 0 P O S T C A R D F R O M ...

Enmore Road, Sydney.

0 2 2 T W O S I D E S O F...

040 SEOUL Explore the vibrant districts of South Korea’s capital one metro stop at a time.

Vietnam.

0 2 4 T R AV EL H AC K:

C U LT U R E W I T H K I D S ake arts and culture activities M fun for the whole tribe.

0 2 6 T E C H

Smart and stylish laptops that will keep you working on the go.

0 2 8 T R AV E L T R E N D S:

SENS ORY TR AVEL Five ways to experience your destination in a new way.

0 3 0 T R AV EL H AC K:

BEAUTY BAG DETOX Tips to give your cosmetics kit a natural makeover.

0 3 3 T R AV EL N E W S

All the latest updates, info and events from around our network.

037 CALENDAR

Film, footy, jazz and comedy – what not to miss this month.

050 WINTER ESCAPES It’s time to rug up and indulge in these cosy mini-breaks.

006

C O N T EN T S

058 UBUD Add these activities to your to-do list for a fun family holiday in Bali’s cultural heart.

the cut T H E BES T OF W H ERE T O E AT, D R IN K A N D PL AY

0 8 4 E A T + D R I N K : M A N I L A

Where to indulge in Filipino favourites, buffets and dessert.

0 9 0 A N AT O M Y OF A DIS H

Taste the flavours of the sea in the Cook Islands’ ika mata dish.

0 9 2 H A P P Y H O U R S: QUEENSTOWN

Rum, cocktails, wine – we raise a glass at the city’s best bars.

096 FOOD TRENDS

Pizza balls, vegan burgers and lots of cheese. Need we say more?

098 EXPERIENCE 064

070

BANGKOK

HAWAII

How to make the most of this Thai city with 48 hours up your sleeve and a little pedal power.

Following the hiking trails of a volcano reveals an ancient yet changing landscape.

Immersive art exhibitions that are breaking boundaries.

100 STREET STYLE Where to shop on the trendy Orange Street strip in Osaka.

103 FASHION

Winter warmers to get you through the cool-down.

the insider JE T S TA R N E W S, M AP S A N D EN T ER TA IN MEN T

1 0 6 JE T S TA R N E W S 1 0 9 EN T ER TA IN M EN T 114 AIRPORT TO CITY 1 1 8 W H E R E W E FLY 120 GAMES + PUZZLES 1 2 4 W H E R E’S W A L LY ?

1 2 8 H I G H E R , BI G G E R , 076

F A S T E R , LO N G E R

SUNSHINE COAST Head to the hinterland for natural beauty and gourmet treats.

Cover photography

by Loïc Lagarde.

Shot at Bukchon Hanok Village, Seoul.

E DITOR I A L .

CONTRIBUTORS.

EDITOR Jacqueline Lunn DEPUTY EDITOR Sudeshna Ghosh CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jon Gregory DESIGNER Lisa Emmanuel CHIEF SUBEDITOR Nancy Merlo SUBEDITOR Kaitlyn Palmer-Allen PHOTOGRAPHIC EDITOR Nicola Sevitt

EDITORIAL INQUIRIES EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Rachel Gray Suite 58, 26-32 Pirrama Road, Pyrmont, NSW 2009 P (02) 8114 8944 E jetstar.editorial@mediumrarecontent.com

ALEXANDRA CARLTON Sydney-based freelancer Alexandra has been writing for almost 20 years for titles including Qantas, Marie Claire, and Gourmet Traveller. In this issue, she explores her former ‘hood – the small but perfectly formed Sydney suburb of Enmore (page 20).

MANAGING EDITOR, JETSTAR Simon Tsang

A DVERT I S I N G .

NATIONAL ADVERTISING MANAGER

VIC & QLD ADVERTISING DIRECTOR

Amanda Atkinson | (02) 8114 8920

Chris Joy | (03) 9292 3207

NSW SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER

GROUP SALES MANAGER

Andre Hammond-Parker | (02) 8114 7626

Belinda Morton | (03) 9292 1159

NSW ACCOUNT MANAGER

VIC ACCOUNT MANAGER

Stephanie Leon | (02) 8114 8936

Brittany Groth | (03) 9292 3280

NZ BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER

QLD & NT ACCOUNT MANAGER

Stuart Tovey | +64 21 711 606

Kasia Brzezicka | 0447 383 072

ADVERTISING SALES COORDINATOR

VIC ADVERTISING COORDINATOR

Emily Whelan | (02) 8114 8908

Peggy Ford | (03) 9292 3222

MEDIUM R A R E C O N T E N T A G E N C Y .

MANAGING DIRECTOR Gerard Reynolds EXECUTIVE GENERAL MANAGER Sally Wright CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Fiorella Di Santo CHIEF CONTENT OFFICER Margaret Merten DIGITAL STRATEGY DIRECTOR Karla Courtney SOCIAL STRATEGY DIRECTOR Scott Drummond CREATIVE SERVICES ART DIRECTOR Philippa Moffitt FINANCE MANAGER Alvin Largado

Jetstar magazine is published monthly and is complimentary to domestic and international passengers. Published for Jetstar Airways

by Medium Rare Content Agency (ABN 83 169 879 921), Suite 58/2632 Pirrama Road, Pyrmont, NSW 2009. ©2018. All rights reserved.

Printed by Ovato Print Pty Ltd. Paper fibre is from sustainably managed forests and controlled sources. No responsibility is accepted for unsolicited material. Articles express the opinions of the authors and not necessarily those of Jetstar Airways or Medium Rare Content Agency. For a copy of Medium Rare Content Agency’s Privacy Policy, visit mediumrarecontent.com. ISSN 1443-2013.

We want you to know that at Jetstar our writers are not armchair travellers.

Any assistance we do accept from the travel industry to produce our stories does not compromise the integrity of the coverage.

For flight reservations jetstar.com For hotel bookings and holiday packages jetstar.com/hotels jetstar.com/holidays

BILL FINK Adventure travel writer Bill has written for National Geographic Traveler and the LA Times, among others. Based in California, he’s hiked in six continents but counts Hawaii’s Crater Rim trail (page 70) as one of the most impressive.

SIMONE MADDEN-GREY Kiwi and former professional flute player Simone translated her love of wine into a writing career specialising in New Zealand and Australian wines.

This month, she goes back to her home country to scout out the best bars in Queenstown (page 92).

Airport parking is cheaper than you think.

EXCLUSIVE JETSTAR OFFER SYDNEY AIRPORT PARKING FROM $14/DAY FREE AND ON-DEM E SHUTTL ED INCLUD

Use code: JETMAG Minimum 2 day stay. Subject to availability.

OPEN AT 4:30AM

24 HOUR SECURITY

KEEP YOUR KEYS

RATED 4.9 E-CHARGING STATIONS

PRE-BOOK ONLINE & SAVE

parkonking.com.au

SENIORS PARKING

PRAM PARKING

VIP PARKING

Businesses have their ups and downs. You could get the gear your business needs without the added pressure on your cash flow, with ANZ vehicle and equipment finance. Our dedicated team will work with you to tailor your repayments to suit your cash flow. Better yet, approved customers may not have to pay a deposit, which means your cash could be put to work in other areas of the business.

Get on top of business with ANZ vehicle and equipment finance.

1300 853 114

Any advice does not take into account your personal needs and financial circumstances and you should consider whether it is appropriate for you. All applications for credit are subject to ANZ’s normal credit approval criteria. Terms and conditions available on application. Fees and charges apply. Australia and New Zealand Banking Group Limited (ANZ) 2019 ABN 11 005 357 522.

CEO’S LE T T ER

Spreading a little happiness > Thank you for choosing to fly with Jetstar and I hope you enjoy your journey with us today.

We’re passionate about flying and we’re always delighted when we meet customers who share our passion.

Recently 26-year-old Georgia, who has Down syndrome, posted a video on Facebook sharing her dream to become a member of the Jetstar cabin crew. Our team saw Georgia’s video and reached out to turn her dream into a reality, inviting her to join the Jetstar team for the day.

Georgia spent the day with us learning the ropes and meeting our cabin crew and pilots at Brisbane Airport, before taking to the sky on a flight to her home town of Mackay in Queensland. Wearing her own cabin crew uniform and set of

GEORGIA WI T H JE TSTAR CABIN CREW MANAGER, NICK Y

“E VERY DAY O U R C ABIN CRE W G O T HE EX T R A MILE T O M AK E O U R C U S T O MERS’ JO U R NE Y A N EN JOYABLE O NE.”

“wings” – a badge that all cabin crew receive before their first flight – Georgia welcomed customers on board, assisted with the safety briefing and helped with meal service during the flight.

Georgia’s motivation to be a member of cabin crew? She told us she just wants to make people happy.

Georgia would fit right in with the team here at Jetstar. Every day our cabin crew go the extra mile to make our customers’ journey an enjoyable one.

Wherever you’re flying today, I wish you a happy journey.

G A RE T H E VA N S CEO, JE T S TA R G R O U P

SCAN T HIS C O DE TO FIND O U T M ORE AB O U T GEORGIA’S DAY AS A MEMBER OF T HE JE TSTAR CABIN CREW.

011

01 2

JE T S TAR S O CI AL

LIKE. FOLLOW. CLICK. SHARE. Get social with us and join the conversation online. < VARIETY SHOP > YOU'LL NEVER GO HUNGRY AT MELBOURNE'S QUEEN VICTORIA MARKET. @THE_WORLD_VS_ANDRE

< WALK THE WALK > IS THIS BLUE MOUNTAINS WALKING TRACK THE ULTIMATE SELFIE SPOT? @ATRAVELLERSFOOTSTEPS

jetstar.com THE ONLINE HUB FOR ALL THE TRAVEL INSPO AND INTEL YOU NEED TO EXPLORE THE WORLD YOUR WAY.

< PILLARS OF FAITH > YOU DON'T NEED TO READ JAPANESE TO APPRECIATE KYOTO'S ICONIC FUSHIMI INARI TAISHA SHRINE. @JOESNIKON

< LIVING TRADITIONS > WATCHING THESE PERFORMERS FROM THE GOLD COAST'S JELLURGAL ABORIGINAL CULTURAL CENTRE IS #CULTUREGOALS. @DEANJOHNSON

U SE T HESE H AS H TAG S A N D YO U C O UL D BE O N T HIS PAGE!

#JETSTARAUSTRALIA

#JETSTARNZ

F O L L O W U S.

L I K E U S.

F O L L O W U S.

@ J E T S TA R A U S T R A L I A @ J E T S TA R N Z

@ J E T S TA R A U S T R A L I A @ J E T S TA R N Z

@ J E T S TA R A I R W AY S @ J E T S TA R _ N Z

Make Winter Extraordinary.

Over 3000 unforgettable experiences await you. www.experienceoz.com.au

Whale Season: May - November

Get 10% OFF with the coupon code JETJUN. ADVENTURE

INDULGENCE

THEME PARKS

ADRENALINE

CULTURE & MORE

015—038

the checklist > ALL THE TRAVEL INTEL YOU NEED NOW

H OT SPR IN G S PA G E

018 C A IR NS

PA G E

016

> This Queensland city is home to the Hercules moth, one of the world’s largest moths, with a 27-centimetre wingspan.

SY D NE Y

PA G E

020

> The Sydney Fish Market is the largest in the Southern Hemisphere and attracts three million visitors annually.

V IE T N A M

PA G E

022

> Love cashews? This colourful South-East Asian nation is the largest exporter of cashew nuts in the world.

016

T HE C HECKL IS T

7 M Y T H S AB O U T...

Cairns —It’s the launching pad to the world’s largest reef and the planet’s oldest rainforest but Christine Retschlag says there’s more to learn about this surprising northern Queensland city—

MYTH #1 You can’t swim because of marine stingers > The warm, tropical waters can attract marine stingers, particularly between October and May, but the chances of actually being stung are low. Not only do beaches in Tropical North Queensland roll out stinger resistant nets during the season, you can hire a lycra stinger suit to protect yourself. You also won’t find jellyfish in the free and fabulous Cairns Esplanade Lagoon (cairns. qld.gov.au/ esplanade) or the cool waters of Mossman Gorge, about 77 kilometres north of Cairns.

MYTH #3

MYTH #2 It’s too far away > Far North Queensland might conjure images of a land far, far away but the northernmost part of the state (which locals prefer to call Tropical North Queensland) is big and Cairns is still some distance from the tip of Australia. If you want the true far north, you’ll need to keep driving 950 kilometres on some rough and ready roads to Cape York. In reality, Cairns is just over a three-hour flight from Sydney or Melbourne.

There are crocs everywhere > Yes, there are crocodiles in Tropical North Queensland and while visitors are encouraged to be croc aware, you’re not likely to spot one as you go about your holiday. Beaches and rivers usually have warning signs indicating where you can swim and there are rarely crocs on the Great Barrier Reef.

For an informative and safe croc-spotting experience, try Hartley’s Crocodile Adventures (crocodileadventures.com), where you can learn all about these fascinating dinosaurs.

T H E C H ECKL IS T

017

“T HERE’S A NE W ENER GY A N D OPT IMISM IN

MYTH #4

T HE CI T Y, W I T H T HE ESPL A N A DE A N D

There’s no culture > Oh, but there is – Cairns has thousands of years of Aboriginal culture. Experience it at the Tjapukai Cultural Park (tjapukai. com.au), which uses stories and dance to share the history of local people. Then, head to Mossman Gorge (mossman gorge.com.au) for a Dreamtime Walk or go on a Walkabout Cultural Adventures (walkabout adventures.com.au) tour.

Afterwards, check out the local arts scene at Kickarts (kickarts.org.au) or Fusion Art Bar and Tapas (fusionartbar. com.au).

MYTH #5 The coffee is bad > Home to generations of Italian migrants, this region knows a thing or two about good coffee. In Cairns, White Whale Coffee Roasters (whitewhalecoffee.com.au) is touted as one of the city’s best, while Mi Piace Espresso Bar (fb.me/mipiaceespresso) in the city centre also serves up great vegan and vegetarian food. For ethically sourced beans, try the Tattooed Sailor Coffee Roasters (tattooed sailor.com.au), and to see where coffee comes from and sip a freshly roasted cup, head one hour west to Mareeba to visit the Skybury (skybury.com. au) and Jaques (jaquescoffee. com.au) coffee plantations.

SURR O U N D S B UZZIN G.”

MYTH #6 It’s only for backpackers > It may be a starting point for backpackers on their great Australian journey but the city has plenty to offer luxury seekers, too. For those short on time but big on cash, Helitours North Queensland (helitoursnq. com.au) does chopper rides over the Great Barrier Reef or Heli Pub Tours of the Atherton Tablelands. There are new luxe hotels as well, such as Riley (crystalbrookcollection.com/ riley), a Crystalbrook Collection resort, while restaurants such as Ochre (ochrerestaurant.com.au) serve up gourmet takes on Indigenous flavours.

MYTH #7 The Great Barrier Reef has vanished > Parts of the Great Barrier Reef have been impacted by climate change or cyclones but, at 2300 kilometres from top to toe, there’s plenty of healthy reef around. While Cairns is much more than just a gateway to the coral reef, the opportunity to snorkel or dive this natural wonder remains a major attraction.

AND 3 TRUTHS Cairns is celebrating a resurgence > There’s a new energy and optimism in the city, with the esplanade and surrounds buzzing with development. The Crystalbrook Collection alone is planning to open two new luxury hotels within the next 18 months.

Farm-to-fork dining is massive > With its tropical climate and diverse geography, the region is a real food bowl. From Rusty’s Markets (rustysmarkets.com.au) to Mungalli Creek Dairy (mungallicreekdairy.com. au), where you can feast in the farmhouse café, there’s lots of variety on the table.

The hinterland is next-level > The cool, emerald green countryside with rolling hills and quaint accommodation shouldn’t be ignored. You can soak in a spa while overlooking the Atherton Tablelands at Allawah Retreat (allawah-retreat. com.au), marvel at the stunning Millaa Millaa Falls (millaamillaa.com) and get your geologist on at Atherton’s Crystal Caves (crystalcaves.com.au).

018

T HE C HECKL IS T

SUPER S OA KS 5 OF T HE BEST HOT SPRINGS

M ATAR A NK A T HERM AL P O OL

01. Take a swish splash

T R AVEL T REN D S

VIC, AUSTRALIA

Ease worries (and tired bones) with a dip in soothing spring waters so deluxe locals have nicknamed them “nature’s Champagne”. Hepburn Springs is heavenly spa country teeming with indulgent bathhouses offering massages and facials alongside mineral water soaks.

Savour the luxury with a stay in a Hepburn Bathhouse and Spa villa – about a 90-minute drive north of Melbourne – where you can unwind and relax in between aromatic herbal steam therapies, invigorating vichy showers and salted baths. hepburnbathhouse.com

—Relax, rejuvenate and let the health benefits of a natural hot spring wash over you at these steamy baths— W O R D S_ R A C H EL G R AY

02. Get hot in the outback NT, AUSTRALIA

Slip into the crystal clear turquoise waters of Mataranka Thermal Pool, where temperatures hover around 34°C, or head down the road to Bitter Springs. “Bitter Springs is more natural because you swim down a little river but Mataranka Thermal Pool has better access for the elderly, kids and people who aren’t great swimmers,” says Des Barritt, owner of Little Roper Stockcamp. “Both

are spectacularly beautiful and totally safe from crocodiles.”

Getting here from Darwin Airport is a four-hour drive but once you arrive, you can rent a swag from the stockcamp, sleep under the stars and wake to a hot mug of billy tea at the morning smoko.

For creature comforts (like aircon), head to the convenient Bitter Springs Cabins and Camping. littleroperstockcamp.com.au; bitterspringscabins.com.au

03. Go pool-hopping NEW ZEALAND

Rotorua in New Zealand is dotted with restorative hot springs but there is a Yin to the springs’ healing Yang: the smell of sulphur. The good news is that locals say you quickly get used to the eggy scent and it becomes part of the immersive experience.

So take your time luxuriating in one of 28 Instagrammable geothermal pools at the Polynesian Spa, which overlooks Lake Rotorua. About three hours’ drive south from Auckland Airport, the pools here are fed from two main underground natural springs – the alkaline Whangapipiro (aka Rachel Spring) nourishes the skin and relaxes tired travel-weary muscles, while the slightly acidic Priest Spring washes away aches and is said to provide relief from arthritis and rheumatism. polynesianspa.co.nz

HEPB URN BAT H H O USE

04. Step outside your comfort zone It will be a quick skinny dip at Kusatsu, located about 200 kilometres north of Tokyo, where bathers sit for a brief three minutes in the 42-43°C hot spring that is said to cure muscle fatigue, chronic pain, bruises and poor circulation among other benefits. For a gentler soaking, drive 90 minutes south of Tokyo to the numerous ryokan bathhouses at Hakone, where views of the active volcano Mount Fuji – Japan’s tallest peak – tower in the distance.

Many onsens here still maintain the traditional ethos of bathing naked (after washing) but most guests quickly become comfortable being in the buff, as it is not seen as vulgar. Just don’t stare. kusatsu-onsen.ne.jp/guide/en

P OLY NESIA N SPA

JAPAN

05. Dip away from it all VIETNAM

Locals kept these hot springs in the Vietnamese countryside a secret for many years before recently revealing the warm waters to the rest of the world. At Tram Tau, about a five-hour drive north-west from Hanoi, former teacher Vu Manh Cuong built two 40°C natural spring pools into the landscape in 2017 to help generate income for locals. Today, guests can stay in the stilted villas surrounded by rice terraces and pine trees, overlooking the outdoor baths in the charming but remote valley. fb.me/tramtauhotspingbath K USATS U

P O S TC ARD FR O M

Enmore Road

SYDNEY

—Tucked between Inner West big-hitters Newtown and Marrickville, Enmore is the hip little suburb that could. Here’s where the locals go for the best food, drinks, shopping and culture—

W O R D S _ A L E X C A R LT O N ILL U S T R AT IO N _ G ER G Ő GIL IC ZE

1 TEA ANGLE Stepping inside the quiet serenity of this elegant tea shop is like entering another world, far away from the bumper-to-bumper brashness of the surrounding streets. Stop in to try and buy loose-leaf small-batch tea from rural China or sign up for one of their guided tea tastings. teaangle.com 2 THE LAST COURSE There’s serious dessert competition on Enmore Road – namely Cow & The Moon (cowandthemoon.com.au) and Saga (sagaenmore.com) – but baking away in the background is chef Sue Keirouz, who makes every cake and cookie here from scratch. If she’s just pulled a batch of apple crumble out of the oven, run don’t walk. fb.me/thelastcoursesydney

T H E C H ECKL IS T

3 QUEEN CHOW When Peter Gilmore, executive chef of Sydney fine diner Quay, says something is one of his favourites, you know it has to be good. He is a huge fan of Queen Chow’s fresh Cantonese dumplings, which are served in a leafy tea-house style conservatory tacked onto the back of an old-school wood-panelled pub.

They also do an excellent mud crab. merivale.com/queenchow 4 JACOBY’S TIKI BAR When the restaurants close and the show’s over at Enmore Theatre, this is where everyone – customers, staff, audience and bands – ends up.

The décor is pirates-meets-the-Pacific islands, the welcome is warm and the cocktails will knock you sideways. jacobys-tiki-bar.com

5 STANBULI Even locals have been known to do a few laps before finding the entrance to this modern Turkish restaurant, disguised by the mauve and pink signage of the hair salon that once occupied its space. But follow your nose – the smoky scent of lamb kofte, stuffed eggplant and grilled snapper will lead you to the right spot. stanbuli.com.au 6 ENMORE THEATRE Most Sydneysiders remember the first gig they saw at Enmore Theatre – a rowdy live performance venue that hits that mid-level sweet spot between pub and stadium. Crooning legend Billy Ocean, comedian Joel Creasy and the cast of The Sopranos are all taking the stage in 2019. enmoretheatre.com.au

021

7 COLLECTIKA Possibly the most thoughtfully curated selection of mid-century furniture in the city, this is the place to find that one-of-a-kind Parker sideboard or Eames armchair, or bring in one of the treasures from your granny’s attic for appraisal. collectika.com.au 8 DEFIANCE GALLERY This highly regarded art space has been a neighbourhood fixture since 1995, holding regular exhibits from some of the country’s most renowned and up-and-coming artists in its light-filled gallery. They also manage the estate of the late contemporary artist Roy Jackson, whose airy, lively compositions capture the beauty of the Australian bush. defiancegallery.com

@ C O N NIE _YA N G & @AL3XISLEE

Cam Thanh coconut village, Hoi An Hop aboard a bamboo basket boat and float through the forest of water coconut palms that flank the waterways of this eco destination, just five kilometres from the city centre.

T WO SIDES

@VIE TS UI

T H E C H ECKL IS T

OF VIET N A M

023

Quang Phu Cau incense village, Hanoi For over a century, locals in this village on the outskirts of the capital have been dyeing and whittling down bamboo to make millions of colourful incense sticks for the Lunar New Year.

024

T HE C HECKL IS T

TR AVEL H ACK

LEAD FR O M BEHIND

How to do culture with kids

It’s tempting to turn everything into an educational experience but there’s no need to play tour guide 24/7. When you’re in an art space, let your children take the lead and come to their own conclusions about what they’re seeing and what it means. Take it for granted that learning is happening.

G O LO CAL Culture isn’t just about hitting the big attractions. The unique flavours of a new city can be found right on your doorstep. Check out the local markets and seek out quirky little museums or temples showcasing the area’s culture and heritage. Why not spend some time in a park to give everyone a breather, too? Nothing demolishes language barriers and holidaymaker shyness faster than a game at the playground with local children – and it will give kids a sense of the real culture like nothing else.

H A ND OVER T HE CA MER A

—Museums and galleries aren’t just for adults. Follow these top tips for making arts and culture as exciting for the little ones as it is for you—

Many museums and galleries have audio channels and labels especially for kids that explain the exhibit in simpler terms. Listening to short, informative sound bites adds an interactive element to keep youngsters interested.

D O N’T OVERLOAD Go on cultural expeditions in the morning, when everyone is fresh and well fed. And when visiting big galleries or museums, bear in mind that the scope can be overwhelming for kids.

Break the experience down into manageable chunks. A good rule of thumb is 10-15 minutes of engagement for toddlers and 20-25 minutes for preschoolers, adding 10 minutes for every year over five (this is according to the experts at the world’s largest research and museum complex, The Smithsonian Institute, in the US).

OP T FOR FA MILY EVEN TS Orchestras and theatres always program family-friendly events in school holiday periods and you can see world famous companies and ensembles for a fraction of what they would ask of a grown-up audience.

Check the tourist information centres for discounts and transport deals, too. Family passes and combined attraction and transport packages can save you money.

WORDS_ ELISSA BL AKE

U SE AU DIO G UIDES

ILL U S T R AT IO N _ B RE N T W IL S O N

A great way to focus interest on culture is to give your kids the job of recording their visit. Put them in charge of taking photos and videos.

You’ll be surprised by the fresh angles and learn something about what really piques their interest.

Smart Alerts, for however you do business.

Business Smart Alerts Commonwealth Bank of Australia ABN 48 123 123 124.

026

T HE C HECKL IS T

Work your way FR O M $251 9

> A work machine doesn’t have to sacrifice finer details – the Dell Latitude 7390 2-in-1 laptop has a beautiful 13-inch touch display.

Work the way you need to in tent, media, laptop or stand display mode and have peace of mind with security features including a fingerprint reader and password protection. It can also connect to a dock for transitioning to desktop work using a separate monitor. dell.com.au

> ONE SMART APPLE FR O M $1 8 4 9 A business laptop frequently travels between the office and airport, café, hotel or co-working space. You can keep your files protected wherever you work with the newest MacBook Air and its secure Touch ID feature.

It promises up to 12 hours working battery life, long enough for a full workday or downtime watching movies on a long-haul flight. apple.com.au

TEC H N OL O GY

Power tools —Nothing will stop you from getting work done on the road when you’re armed with one of these super laptops— W O R D S _ R O S A LY N PA G E

Tough operator $229 9

> If work takes you to environments with extreme altitudes, temperatures and humidity, a robust laptop like the Asus ZenBook S (UX391UA) with military-grade durability might be the answer.

It boasts a 13.3-inch screen, yet weighs just one kilogram and is 12.9 millimetres thick, ticking the box for portability as well as strength. asus.com.au

MUST-HAVE LAPTOP ACCESSORIES

> PRINT ANYWHERE

> ON-THE-GO

FR O M $20 6 9

The Lenovo ThinkPad X1 Carbon (Gen 6) is built for the demands of work. It easily slots into a desktop docking station for working in any location and boasts a secure fingerprint reader and webcam shutter protection for added security. Plus, it’s tested to work in extreme conditions and the fast charge feature goes from 0 to 80 per cent in a lunch break. lenovo.com/au

$379

Sometimes that all-important report needs to be printed in a hurry while out of the office.

The solution comes in the form of a small, portable printer like the Epson WorkForce WF-100.

It can connect wirelessly, has an in-built rechargeable battery and can print both colour and black and white. epson.com.au

Light and easy FR O M $159 9

> The Microsoft Surface 2 is a slick but powerful laptop for work of all descriptions. It boasts a 13.5-inch high-resolution touch screen display, battery life up to 14.5 hours, facial recognition security and weighs just 1.2 kilograms. It’s work-ready and comes loaded with Windows 10 Home operating software. microsoft.com/en-au

> SECURE YOUR FILES FROM $99 A backup drive is an essential companion for a work laptop and the Seagate Backup Plus Slim offers easy storage of important files. It works with Windows and Apple laptops without having to reformat. seagate.com/au/en

Utility player FR O M $28 5 0

> The HP EliteBook x360 1040 G5 promises to be a work laptop with a trifecta of winning features: slim size, compact shape, powerful computing. It combines a 14-inch convertible laptop with a tablet to make a flexible work machine and there are plenty of useful add-ons including an Active Pen, anti-glare touch display, 4G connectivity and full HD webcam for whatever work demands. hp.com.au

> SAVE PHOTOS

$50

A storage card reader is a must if you’re travelling with a digital camera and the Kingston USB 3.0 High-Speed Media Reader boasts speedy transfer and is compatible with most major memory cards for quickly moving files onto your laptop. kingston.com

TR AVEL TREN D S

Stay in touch —It’s time to hit pause.

Here are five ways you can engage your senses and travel more mindfully—

W O R D S_ R A C H EL G R AY

When you travel, do you take your senses with you? Do you let sight, sound, taste, touch and smell carry you deeper into an experience? Whether it’s restaurants offering multi-sensory dining or city tours focusing on the acoustic, experts say holidays where you mindfully focus on and utilise the five senses make your travels much more immersive and are growing in popularity.

According to global futurist and innovation strategist Anders Sörman-Nilsson, “Going on a transformational journey may be the future of travel – whether you achieve that at an eye-opening festival or during a meditative retreat. If great sensory experiences are today’s luxury, it will be tomorrow’s expectation.”

But you don’t have to wait for the future to arrive. Try these unique experiences to connect with your senses in cities across Australia.

TOUCH SYDNEY

> Feel the texture and temperature of wet clay, allowing it to ooze between your fingers as you shape gummy mud into a smooth-edged mug, bowl or your own artistic masterpiece at a pottery class.

The Pottery Shed in Sydney’s Surry Hills holds classes every day of the week. Just don’t forget your Ghost soundtrack. thepotteryshed.com.au

TA S T E PERTH

> Take a bite and let the chocolate slowly melt in your mouth. Does it taste sweet or bitter? Are there hints of lemon myrtle, sea salt or Glenlivet whisky? Tease and tantalise your tastebuds with a chocolatemaking class at Sue Lewis Chocolatier in Perth’s CBD. suelewischocolatier.com.au

T H E C H ECKL IS T

029

S ME L L ADELAIDE, SYDNEY, PERTH, HOBART, MELBOURNE

> Let your nose do all the work as you create your signature fragrance in a masterclass with Liz Cook, the owner of the Adelaide-based One Seed perfumery. The aromatic 75-minute or three-hour workshops teach you about natural perfumery and blending using plant essences. oneseedperfumes.com

HE A R CANBERRA, MELBOURNE, SYDNEY

> Listen to healing gongs, crystal sound bowls and the didgeridoo as you perfect the art of “not doing” in a relaxing sound bath guided by gong master Leith James. Originally based in Brisbane, Leith is taking his sound therapy and meditation sessions on the road and travelling in his bus around Australia. Sound therapy is said to ease anxiety, depression and soothe the soul with all those good vibrations. gongsoundmeditation.com.au

SEE MELBOURNE

> Look at things differently and you’ll appreciate the sense of sight. Dialogue in the Dark conducts hour-long tours in Melbourne. The catch? You need to keep your eyes shut and rely on your other senses, a white cane and your tour guide as you board trams, visit monuments and encounter crowds.

These city tours are available in 21 locations, including Japan, China, Singapore and Thailand. dialogueinthedark.com.au

PLUS...

THE SIX TH SENSE

HOBART

Tap into your extrasensory perceptions with a visit to psychic Cassandra Knight and her deck of tarot cards. cassandra.net.au

0 30

T HE C HECKL IS T

TR AVEL H ACK

Keep it clean [HOW TO DETOX YO UR TRAVEL BEAU T Y BAG] #5

—Downsize, go natural and reduce waste with our tips and tricks to help make over your cosmetics kit—

#1

#1

WORDS_ SAMERA KAMALEDDINE

#2

#3 Lock it in

Choose multi-tasking products What you pack is as important as how you pack, so bid bon voyage to long-winded beauty routines and embrace multi-purpose products that save space, time and reduce waste.

Think BB or CC cream with SPF (as both a foundation and sunscreen), plus all-in-one sticks for eyes, lips and cheeks (’cos who has time for highmaintenance make-up on vacay?). > T RY T H I S: We Are Feel Good Inc Sticky Zinc cream, $29.95. wearefeelgoodinc.com.au

Zip-lock bags aren’t just for packing snacks – avoid leaks and mess by packing your beauty products in them, too (just remember to buy degradable bags and reuse them).

Separate your stuff into categories – skincare, shower essentials and make-up – and you’ll have superorganised bags that make it easy to find things on-the-go. > T RY T H I S: Multix Greener Degradable Sandwich Bags, $2.60. shop.coles.com.au

#2 Go natural

#4 Do yourself a solid

Travel can take a toll on your skin and chemical-laden formulas in beauty items can add to the problem. Opt for products with natural or organic ingredients and avoid nasties such as formaldehyde, parabens, phthalates, triclosan and oxybenzone. Take your detox mission one step further with cruelty-free brands that don’t test on animals (find a good list on peta.org). > T RY T H I S: Paudha Healing Nourish and Repair Face Oil, $33. paudhahealing.com

#4

Cutting down on bottled liquids will save you goopy explosions in transit and it’s a genius way to be more eco-friendly. Opt for solid versions of liquid toiletries such as shampoo bars (similar to soap bars but for hair), which often use biodegradable packaging or are packaging-free (bonus points for this one!). > TRY T HIS: Noora shampoo bar, $14. noora.com.au

#5 Create your own travel minis

Cute travel-sized beauty products are tempting but think about how much plastic you are adding to landfill.

Save coin and do your part for the environment with reusable travelsized bottles (or by recycling old ones) filled with your favourite products. > T RY T H I S: Biome Plastic-Free ZeroWaste Travel Container Kit, $34.95. biome.com.au

T H E C H ECKL IS T

T R AVEL NE W S

In the know —The latest buzz on where to play, stay and holiday—

A IRP O R T U P DAT E

Singapore stopover Not content to rest on its many awards, Changi Airport has just upped the stakes with the launch of Jewel, a brand new mixed-use development that’s easily accessible from all four terminals. Lifestyle facilities include lush gardens complete with indoor nature trails, hedge mazes and a 40-metre waterfall, retail outlets, kids’ play areas, restaurants and a hotel offering flexible sleep options. Other thoughtful amenities include early check-in counters and baggage storage facilities. jewelchangiairport.com

N E W H O T EL

Tropical retreat If you’re dreaming of coastal Vietnam, the newly opened Meliá Ho Tram Beach Resort needs to be on your radar. Located on picturesque Ho Tram Beach, 2.5-hours from Ho Chi Minh City, the 17-hectare luxury resort boasts 500 metres of ocean frontage, ensuring water views for its 152 rooms and 61 villas. There are also three restaurants, three swimming pools, a swim-up bar, spa, beach club and kids’ club. Local attractions such as the Greg Norman-designed Bluffs Ho Tram Strip golf course, Binh Chau Hot Springs and Binh Chau-Phuoc Buu Nature Reserve are also all within easy reach. melia.com

FA MILY F U N

It’s playtime Melbourne’s newest play space is a teeny-weeny heaven for kids. Interaxcity, a “mini-city” built for children, promotes learning through imaginative play by letting little ones explore miniature versions of an airport, construction site, florist, house, medical centre, post office and restaurant. interaxcity.com.au

033

034

T R AVEL NE W S

T HIS J U S T IN

New Sydney hotspot

Where to find the best winter walks in Australia —It’s cold outside but that doesn’t mean you have to stay indoors. Rug up and head out on one of these spectacular walking trails—

01.

02.

03.

04.

> ARKABA WALK FLINDERS RANGES, SA

> SHERBROOKE FALLS WALK SHERBROOKE, VIC

> NATIONAL PASS WENTWORTH FALLS, NSW

> COASTAL WALK NOOSA HEADS, QLD

Experience the incredible sights and sounds of the Australian outback on this four-day hike through 60,000 acres of wildlife conservancy. arkabawalk.com

Wander the 2.4-kilometre (return) track that meanders through a forest for a picnic by the beautiful Sherbrooke Falls. visitdandenong ranges.com.au

Take in sweeping views of Jamison Valley on a 4.5kilometre loop past waterfalls before enjoying a warming cup of tea at the “Hut”. nationalparks. nsw.gov.au

Keep your eyes peeled on this 5.4-kilometre walk from Noosa Main Beach to Sunshine Beach – you might just spot a koala up in the eucalypts. parks.des.qld. gov.au

> CBD dining boasts a new stellar establishment with the opening Bopp & Tone restaurant. The luxe, warm interiors – all dark woods and vintage lamps – create a retro setting but the food is emphatically modern Australian. The sharing style dishes showcase seasonal produce (think char-grilled spatchcock and delicious Mooloolaba king prawns from the charcoal oven), plus there’s a clever cocktail list. boppandtone.com.au

A drop in the ocean > Want your next glass of wine to count for something? Try the new French rosé, Le Rosé Bleu (from $29.95), that has partnered with not-forprofit organisation Plastic Oceans International to help fund their “Rethink.

Refill.” campaign, which aims to reduce single-use plastics by providing reusable bottles and water-refill stations. lerosebleu.com

UnDiscover Down Under with Wyndham Go beyond the guided tours and venture past the landmarks to realise thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s so much more to see, taste, and do in the land down under. UnDiscover Australia on your next holiday with Wyndham Hotels & Resorts.

Tallebudgera Creek, Gold Coast

Create postcard moments with the beautiful golden beaches and incredible skylines from Wyndham Surfers Paradise

Get your adrenaline fix at the world-class theme parks from Ramada by Wyndham Hope Harbour

Watch the surfers riding the famous waves of Bells Beach.

Only minutes from Wyndham Resort Torquay

Discover Brisbaneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sophisticated bar scene and night life from TRYP by Wyndham Fortitude Valley Brisbane

Explore our portfolio at wyndhamhotels.com

WHR0074

T H E C H ECKL IS T

037

C ALEN DAR

PUT IT IN T HE DI A RY —No matter where you are this June, there’s plenty to enjoy—

SA. VARIETY Adelaide Cabaret Festival 7-22 June Adelaide Festival Centre adelaidecabaretfestival. com.au

TAS. ARTS Dark Mofo 6-23 June Hobart darkmofo.net.au

NSW. FILM Sydney Film Festival 5-16 June Various venues sff.org.au FOOD Harvest Festival 8-9 June Central Coast centralcoast.nsw.gov.au

VIC. NEW ZEALAND. COMEDY Michael McIntyre 20-21 June Spark Arena, Auckland ticketmaster.co.nz

MUSIC Melbourne International Jazz Festival Until 9 June Various venues melbournejazz.com

QLD. SPORT State of Origin – Game 1 5 June Suncorp Stadium, Brisbane nrl.com

I T'S A D AT E 5 June World Environment Day 7 June

NT. CULTURE Barunga Festival 7-9 June Barunga barungafestival.com.au

Doughnut Day 10 June Queen’s Birthday 22 June Take Your Dog To Work Day

The ultimate compact travel companion with a superior zoom.

Canon Powershot SX70HS Ultrazoom –––– YOU PAY ––––

681

$

TED’S PRICE $749.95

–––– WE PAY THE GST ––––

20 65x MEGA PIXEL

Bolstering the power and reach of a full high-end kit, but maintaining a compact stature, the Canon Powershot SX70HS is your ticket to well-rounded, easy shooting. The 65X optical zoom lens covers an equivalent range of 21-1365mm, which is suitable for limitless applications, including landscapes, sports and beyond.

The 10 frames per second continuous shooting is perfect for tackling subjects on the go, while 4K UHD video recording helps you frame those situations where a still picture will not suffice. With built-in IS, you are unleashed to explore the full length of the zoom range, even in lower light situations, without camera shake spoiling proceedings, while built-in WiFi and Bluetooth opens the doors for premium levels of remote control and image sharing.

OPTICAL ZOOM

3.0”

VARIANGLE SCREEN

10

FRAMES PER SEC

4K VIDEO

GOING ON A HOLIDAY?

We do Passport photos for the whole family!

QLD Pacific Fair Store (near Zara)

Ph: 5591 8203

Brisbane City 150 Adelaide St Maroochydore 50 Plaza Parade

Ph: 3221 9911 Ph: 5479 2844

Garden City Shopping Centre

Ph: 3849 2333

NSW Chatswood Shopping Centre

Ph: 9413 1144

Sydney City 317 Pitt St

Ph: 9264 1687

ACT Canberra Centre 125 Bunda St

Ph: 6249 7364

Canberra Civic 9 Petrie Plaza

Ph: 6247 8711

SA Adelaide City 212 Rundle St

Ph: 8223 3449

Marion Shopping Centre

Ph: 8179 4800

shopping

VIC Melbourne City 235 Elizabeth St Camberwell 843 Burke Rd Chadstone Shopping Centre Doncaster Shopping Centre Fountain Gate Shopping Centre Frankston 54-58 Wells St

Ph: 9602 3733 Ph: 9861 9100 Ph: 9568 7800 Ph: 9848 3832 Ph: 9705 4000 Ph: 9783 8160

N W OPEN

IN-STORE

ONLINE

PHONE

MOBILE

All offers end 30th June 2019 or until sold out or otherwise stated. Not all stocks available all stores. Every effort is made to avoid errors in this publication, but Ted’s does not warrant the accuracy of the content of this publication and may correct any errors and may refuse to sell any product or service. Any Liability of Ted’s in respect of any part of this publication is negated to the extent permitted by law. And if liable Ted’s obligation is limited to resupply of the goods or services, or repair, or payment for customers doing so, as Ted’s chooses. Bonus products included at Ted’s normal price only.

Greensborough Shopping Centre Highpoint Shopping Centre Knox City Shopping Centre Southland Shopping Centre

Ph: 9434 3460 Ph: 9317 4477 Ph: 9800 1677 Ph: 9583 5433

teds.com.au

039â&#x20AC;&#x201D;082

the traveller > WHERE TO GO NEXT

W IN T ER ES C APES PA G E

050 UBUD

PA G E

058

> Originally a centre of natural healing and medicine, Ubud takes its name from ubad, the Balinese word for medicine.

BA N GKOK

PA G E

06 4

> With a mean temperature of 29Ë&#x161;C year-round, the Thai capital is considered one of the hottest cities in the world.

H AWA II

PA G E

070

> Captain James Cook visited Hawaii in the 1770s, naming it Sandwich Islands after the fourth Earl of Sandwich.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;The South Korean capital is both cutting edge and culturally rich. Erin Craig rides

@royyaldog

SEOUL

T H E T R AV ELLER

041

the subway in Seoul, stopping to explore its wonderfully diverse neighbourhoodsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;

TRAIN

S TARFIELD L IBR ARY IN C OEX M ALL

A

disembodied voice announces the stop. The doors whoosh open, footsteps clatter and the train departs in a rush of air. A wave of people flood the stairs and disappear into the sunlight of a new city corner. It doesn’t really matter which corner – every metro stop in Seoul is a destination in itself.

The South Korean capital is increasingly being billed as the New York City of Asia, an international focal point for business, innovation and the arts. It has the same non-stop, everything-is-possible optimism, the balance of glass and cement and the disparate micro-neighbourhoods contained in a beautifully messy whole.

Nearly 10 million people live in Seoul – over a million more than New York, in a city about three-quarters the size.

With a mountainous green belt to the east and the Yellow Sea to the west, the only direction for Seoul to grow is up.

It is a vertical city, with apartment towers interspersed among skyscraper office blocks and the Han River looping below.

Much like the Big Apple, Seoul is held together by a world-class subway.

The Seoul Metro (seoulmetro.co.kr/en) is relatively new – a 45-year-old system beneath a 625-year-old capital – but it is stunningly comprehensive and efficient. The system operates in four languages (Korean, English, Japanese and Mandarin) with 7.8 million daily riders on 332 kilometres of track, including an expansive Circle Line (Line 2) around the city centre. The subway is the fastest, cheapest and easiest way to get around – and it’s so trendy, it has its own film event, the Seoul Metro International Subway Film Festival (smiff.kr).

But it’s not just about transportation.

The Seoul Metro is a pop-up book of the city’s neighbourhoods (dong). Every station paints a different picture: gritty, glam or futuristic. There are more than 280 stations to launch you into Seoul and some of the best are along the main Circle Line. Here are the stops you should not miss.

SEO UL

043

H O N G DAE

H O N G IK UNI V E R S I T Y THE VIBE IS... BEYOND K-POP – LIKE REALLY FAR BEYOND THIS IS WHERE... CHART-TOPPING INDIE BAND HYUKOH GOT ITS START DON’T FORGET TO... TAKE YOUR CAMERA TO THE TRICK EYE MUSEUM ( TRICKEYE.COM ) TRY THE... MULTITUDE OF CAKE CAFÉS

ABOUT 20 PER CENT OF SOUTH KOREA’S POPULATION LIVES IN SEOUL.

> At the intersection of Seoul Metro’s Airport Railroad and busy Circle Line, Hongik University Station is awash with rolling luggage. It’s also the front door to Hongdae, the trendy university district at the heart of the city’s indie music scene. Venues range from random street corners to live music institutions, such as hip-hop club Madholic (fb.me/ madholic.hongdae), rock bar Club FF (clubff.modoo.at) and indie hub Strange Fruit (fb.me/strangefruit.seoul).

During the day, Hongdae is the place to explore Seoul’s unique themed cafés honouring characters including Harry Potter and Hello Kitty, as well as experiential venues for cake decorating and indoor fishing.

SEO UL

045

Y E O UID O THE VIBE IS... HIGH FINANCE AND FLOWERS THIS IS WHERE... SEOUL’S FIRST AIRPORT WAS BUILT IN 1924 DON’T FORGET TO... ENJOY CHERRY BLOSSOM SEASON IN EARLY SPRING TRY THE... FRIED CHICKEN DELIVERY SERVICE

C HERRY BLO S S O MS O N YEO UID O ISL A ND

S IND A N G THE VIBE IS... AN INTIMATE LOCAL’S VIEW THIS IS WHERE... TTEOKBOKKI (A SPICY STIR-FRIED RICE CAKE DISH ) WAS INVENTED IN THE 1950 s DON’T FORGET TO... WANDER AROUND JUNGANG MARKET TRY THE... TTEOKBOKKI

THE CITY’S BBALLI BBALLI (HURRY HURRY) CULTURE IS REFLECTED IN ITS INTERNET, TRAINS AND ELEVATORS – ALL AMONG THE FASTEST IN THE WORLD.

T TEOKB OKK I

> The skyscrapers above Yeouido Station (two stops from the Circle Line on Line 9) echo the commuters in the trains below: powerful and crammed way too close together. As the clock hits 9am, the streets fill with briefcases and the purposefully striding shoes of people with deals to broker and a country to run. This island in the Han River is the city’s financial district and home to the National Assembly.

It feels almost wrong to enter a park instead of an office building.

Yeouido Park is only a block wide but runs through the centre of the island from top to bottom and packs with visitors each spring when the cherry blossoms bloom. The park intersects with the vast Hangang Park at one of the city’s many food delivery zones – use a smartphone app like Uber Eats to order fried chicken directly to your picnic beneath the birch and Korean pine trees.

> Despite being two metro stops from the sprawling malls and markets of the popular Dongdaemun area, Sindang caters mainly to locals and rarely sees tourists. The dangling lights of Jungang Market turn everyday moments into colourful tableaux: a woman weighing translucent shrimp, a rubbery pile of pig heads and an old man slurping noodles beside a display of fried chicken feet.

The alleys behind it smell of fresh wood shavings from carpentry shops.

South of the station is Sindang’s main attraction: Tteokbokki Town. Seoulites have flocked here since the 1970s for its density of spicy rice cake restaurants.

Today, about 10 tteokbokki hotspots line a single city block. Inside each, clouds of steam hover over the tables as pots of rice cake boil in bright red chilli pepper sauce. Grab a bib apron off the peg and join the crowd.

Three new and totally ROAR-SOME dinosaur experiences

6 April â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 14 July Become a Zoo Member and see them all!

KIDS VISIT FREE

*

*Children under 16 receive FREE entry on weekends, Victorian Public Holidays and Victorian Government School Holidays

SEO UL

047

ANGUK THE VIBE IS... TRADITIONAL THIS IS WHERE... MUCH OF HIT NETFLIX THRILLER KINGDOM WAS FILMED DON’T FORGET TO... TOUR THE PHOTOGENIC SECRET GARDEN TRY THE... JUJUBE TEA

M AGPIE BRE WIN G C O IN ITAE W O N

I TA E W O N THE VIBE IS... ECLECTIC THIS IS WHERE... US MILITARY PERSONNEL LIKED TO HANG OUT DON’T FORGET TO... CHECK OUT THE VIEWS FROM BUGUNDANG HISTORY PARK TRY THE... CRAFT BEER

> The obvious mix of cultures starts in the metro station. Itaewon’s reputation as the “foreigner’s district” began with thirsty US soldiers, who flocked from their nearby headquarters to the area’s bars and eateries in the years following the Korean War. Today, Mexican restaurants, Turkish bakeries and Indian spice shops line the streets, while the country’s first mosque stands on a hill surrounded by halal markets.

It is also a cornerstone neighbourhood for Korea’s LGBTQI community.

The main street of Itaewon has a festival atmosphere. Souvenir kiosks sell Korean flag underwear and tailor shop hawkers entice foreigners with “Custom suit – big size!” The narrow side streets offer the most vibrant bars and nightlife, along with brunch spots to mop up the next morning’s hangover. Itaewon is also one of the few places in Seoul to find local beer – don’t miss Magpie Brewing Co (magpiebrewing.com), one of Korea’s foundational microbreweries established in 2011.

THE CITY HAS A MUSEUM FOR JUST ABOUT EVERYTHING, INCLUDING KIMCHI AT MUSEUM KIMCHIKAN (KIMCHIKAN.COM/EN) AND, WELL… POO POO LAND (PLAYPOOP. COM/ENG).

B UKC H O N H A N OK VILL AGE

> Even before you leave the station, Anguk (located two stops from the Circle Line on Line 3) feels quiet and classy.

This was the seat of power of the Joseon Dynasty, who ruled the Korean Peninsula from 1392 to 1910. Anguk Station sits between the two most famous regal sites, Gyeongbokgung Palace (royalpalace. go.kr) and Changdeokgung Palace (cdg.go.kr/eng). North of the station, the restored houses of Bukchon Hanok Village show how the other half lived.

Anguk is also a five-minute walk from Insadong, a traditional shopping street where artisan goods sit alongside bright Korean-themed kitsch. The latest trends in street food cycle through the groundlevel stalls, while second- and third-floor cafés serve timeless Korean teas made from ginger and jujube (Chinese dates).

048

SEO UL

GANGNAM FAME, WAS BORN AND RAISED DON’T FORGET TO... VISIT A BANG ( ENTERTAINMENT ROOM ) FOR GAMES, MOVIES OR KARAOKE TRY THE... PYEONGYANG NAENGMYEON (A NORTH KOREAN COLD NOODLE DISH )

SEONGSU THE VIBE IS... URBAN INDUSTRIAL MEETS SUPER STYLISH THIS IS WHERE... PRESIDENT MOON JAE-IN GOES FOR CUSTOM-MADE SHOES DON’T FORGET TO... CHECK OUT THE GRAFFITI-STYLE STREET ART TRY THE... COFFEE

SEOUL IS CURRENTLY IN A HISTORIC JOINT BID TO HOST THE 2032 SUMMER OLYMPICS WITH PYONGYANG, THE CAPITAL OF NORTH KOREA.

GA N G N A M

> Gangnam is all that glitters, with the most luxurious malls, the most Michelin Guide mentions, the hottest K-pop labels and elite plastic surgery clinics. It is also Seoul’s most popular subway stop – each year, 10 million more people pass through Gangnam Station than New York City’s bustling Times Square-42 Street stop.

The district showcases Seoul’s reputation as the City of the Future. The country’s largest Smart LED screen and the world’s first 5G robot barista debuted here in 2018. It is also the birthplace of the “VR Bang” or virtual reality playroom, which proved so popular that they’re now all over the city. Plus, it’s a short walk from Gangnam Station to the Nexon Arena, a pro eSports stadium.

O NIO N CAFÉ IN SEO N G S U

THE VIBE IS... GLITZ AND GLAM THIS IS WHERE... PSY, OF “GANGNAM STYLE”

> The subway becomes an elevated train as it crosses Jungnangcheon Stream into Seongsu. Nearly 30 years ago, this blue-collar neighbourhood was the centre of Korea’s handmade shoe industry. Exhibits from the era line Seongsu Station, with leather shoes on spinning pedestals and cobblers’ tools preserved behind mesh screens.

Today, the word most associated with Seongsu is “hipster”. Clamber down to street level to experience the Brooklyn of Seoul. It’s grittier below the concrete overpass and the sidewalks are crowded with parked bikes. Empty warehouses have been reimagined as ultra-chic coffee spaces with expansive menus and local art. Come at night for the same atmosphere over drinks. At quirky bar Urban Space (fb.me/urbansource. official), you can even frolic in an adultsized ball pit – ironically, of course.

JE T S TA R W ILL C O M M E N C E DIRE C T FL IG H T S T O SE O UL I N D E C E M B ER. B O O K N O W.

JE T S TA R.C O M

www.indonesia.travel indonesia.travel @indtravel @indtravel

050

T HE T R AVELLER

P L AY IT

COOL

W IN TER ES C APES

—As the temperature drops, heat things up on a mini-break made cool and cosy with log fires, warming reds and even the odd Christmas carol. Dilvin Yasa seeks out Australia’s most magical winter wonderlands—

051

DARK M OFO

L ARK DIS TILLERY

T H E T R AV ELLER

Gordon Becker (opposite)

HOBART TAS

W A R M U P... Fancy a hot chocolate? Go for one that’s dark (70 per cent or more cacao). Studies show it could boost immunity and improve brain function.

> Some like it hot and some just prefer it when there’s a strong southerly blowing in from Antarctica so that the streets are dark, moody and oh-so-blustery. If you’re one of the latter, it doesn’t get any better than Tasmania’s capital, which takes on an enchanted quality in the winter months. Its picturesque waterfront landscape comes to life within a multitude of galleries and historic stone pubs and there’s even the odd horse and carriage ride you can enjoy from under a pile of blankets.

Visits to the Museum of Old and New Art, more commonly known as MONA (mona.net.au), and the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery (tmag.tas.gov.au) take out the first two positions on the must-do list – one that is rounded out by following the Tasmanian Whisky Trail (taswhiskytrail.com) and visiting distilleries such as Sullivans Cove (sullivanscove.com) and Lark Distillery (larkdistillery.com), then checking out an art-house movie at the iconic State Cinema (statecinema.com.au). You can even search for the Southern Lights on a clear night.

Celebrating the dark might sound like it involves hoods and a prison sentence but make your way to Hobart from 6-23 June for MONA’s winter festival Dark Mofo (darkmofo.net.au) to find large-scale public art, film, music and food.

CLEL A ND C O NSERVATIO N PARK

M O U N T LOF T Y WIN TER REDS EVEN T

ADELAIDE HILLS SA

PA IR I T... To pick the perfect dish to balance your glass of wine, just remember: reds go best with red meats, rich fish and dark, bitter chocolate.

> Some say this celebrated cool-climate wine region is made for winter. Here, in an area stretching from Williamstown in the north to Strathalbyn in the south, more than 50 wineries lie in wait, offering quaint stone cottages with crackling fire places, nourishing slowcooked food and, of course, wine.

Let’s not beat around the vines: you’re here to eat, drink and be merry in the region’s signature historic pubs and vineyards, but to make room for all that fare, you will need to exert some energy. Your best bet? Circle a scenic walk or two at Cleland Conservation Park and make a note to pop by and visit some of the furry residents of the adjoining Cleland Wildlife Park (clelandwildlifepark. sa.gov.au). For those looking to really drive up their core body temperature, a coffee at Mount Lofty The Summit (mountloftysummit.com) – a positively lofty 727 metres above sea level – should be considered the starting gun for the super-steep, 7.8-kilometre Waterfall Gully Track.

Timing is important here. Head to the Hills for the weekend of the 26-28 July and surrender to the joys of a dazzling shiraz, pinot or cabernet sauvignon at the Winter Reds (winterreds.com.au) celebration, where more than 30 participating wineries put on a feast with hearty food, entertainment and those bold reds.

W IN T ER ES C APES

FALLS CREEK VIC S H I N E O N... Did you know that on a sunny day, snow can reflect up to 90 per cent of UV radiation? Always remember to slip, slop and slap.

053

> Heading to the snow for a winter mini-break is hardly groundbreaking stuff, so what makes Falls Creek so special?

Try 65 kilometres of cross-country trails, an August snow depth past the 1.5-metre mark and a program catering for both serious skiers as well as those who are more about sticking the odd carrot in a snowman. You can snowboard, do a snowmobile tour with your family or ski back-country with a former Olympic skier for a guide. Meanwhile, the kids will love tobogganing, snow tubing or making friends in the Paw Patrol Snowclub (fallscreek.com.au/snowclub), which runs ski classes for kids aged three to five. The Spongebob Squarepants Junior Workshop (fallscreek. com.au/juniorworkshop) caters for kids six to 12 years old.

Located 386 kilometres north of Melbourne (you can catch a Falls Creek coach service from either Melbourne Airport or Southern Cross station), the season at Falls Creek runs from 9 June to 7 October and there are plenty of accommodation options, from cosy lodges to luxury penthouse suites, self-contained apartments and hotels for every budget. Resort entry is priced from $49.50 per day if booked online or $54 if purchased at the gate.

Plan a visit for the weekend of 14 July and you can compete at Birkebeiner Classic, where skiers take part in the 10-kilometre, five-kilometre or 2.5-kilometre races.

G E T C O SY... Settle in like the Danes and embrace the concept of hygge (the art of creating cosiness). It’s said to make them the world’s happiest people.

T HREE SIS TERS

BLUE MOUNTAINS NSW

> So spectacular is the landscape, teeming with eucalyptus trees, majestic rock formations and waterfalls, that it’s hard to believe you’re only 100 kilometres west of Sydney.

If you’re the kind of person others would describe as “outdoorsy” or you own a pair of hiking boots, you’re in luck – bushwalking trails (some as short as 30 minutes and others as challenging as the 45-kilometre Six Foot Track) are the region’s bread and butter. Thrill-seekers will also enjoy local abseiling and canyoning tours with companies such as High and Wild (highandwild.com.au), taking in the sights from a cable car at Scenic World (scenicworld.com.au) or pointing a camera at the iconic Three Sisters rock formation – just to say you have.

The villages of Katoomba and Leura are famous for guesthouses complete with log fires, cosy pubs with live music and quirky antique stores and museums such as the Bygone Beautys Treasured Teapot Museum and Tearooms (bygonebeautys.com.au).

Plan a July visit to experience the magic of Christmas at Yulefest (bluemts.com.au), when venues across the region, such as Carrington Hotel (thecarrington.com.au), serve up Yuletide dinners accompanied by carollers and a visit from Santa. Accommodation packages are available to make the experience possible for everyone.

055

SN O W T U NES

PERISHER SK I VILL AGE

BLUE C O W, PERISHER

W IN T ER ES C APES

SNOWY MOUNTAINS NSW

W E AT H ER REP O R T... The coldest temperature ever recorded in Australia was -23°C at Charlotte Pass, a ski resort in Kosciuszko National Park, NSW.

> Love the snow but in a less gung-ho, more “let’s all slide down this gentle slope and just have a good time” kind of way? Zero in on Perisher (perisher.com.au), Australia’s largest ski resort, which is located 490 kilometres southwest of Sydney in the Snowy Mountains.

Here, the non-competitive skiers among us can enjoy a wealth of entertainment options (everything from snow play to kids games), take a front-row seat at some of the coolest festivals in the country, such as Perisher Peak Music Festival (peakfestival.com.au) and BrewSki Festival (perisher.com.au), or simply meander around the charming nearby towns of Jindabyne and Cooma in the east and Tumbarumba in the west.

There’s no need to build yourself an igloo – snow accommodation packages are available across a range of hotels and lodges throughout Perisher Valley and Smiggin Holes and Perisher’s extensive snow-making facilities begin preparing the resort to be the perfect winter wonderland before the season really kicks off.

Plan a visit for early September and score yourself tickets for Snowtunes music festival (snowymountains. com.au). The event will be held at Lake Jindabyne on 6-7 September and showcases talented Australian and international acts.

W IN T ER ES C APES

MARGARET RIVER WA

BRRR... It’s often the body’s extremities that get the coldest, so always pack (and wear) gloves, a hat and thick wool socks whenever you’re in a cold climate.

> Live out all your Bear Grylls fantasies by travelling to Margaret River, a scenic three-hour drive south from Perth. There, embark on an adventure that will have you heading underground to explore the region’s show caves (don’t miss Jewel Cave in Deepdene), roll around in mud at the South West Mud Fest (mudfestwa.com.au) and even commune with whales at Cape Leeuwin as around 35,000 of them migrate north from the Antarctic.

Noted for its wineries (more than 120), surf spots and tall tree forests, Margaret River is very much a “choose your own adventure” destination. Explore the region on foot by taking in the 123-kilometre Cape to Cape Track (or at least parts of it), do a behind-the-scenes vineyard tour with The Margaret River Discovery Co (margaretriverdiscovery.com.au) or employ an Ironman approach by booking in for more active pursuits at Surf N Dirt Adventure Tours (surfndirtadventuretours.com.au) – their Margaret River Lifestyle Tour combines kayaking, mountain biking, a winery visit and gourmet lunch.

Prefer to just enjoy melted cheese and beer by the fire? The Cabin Fever festival (cabinfeverfest.com.au) will feature more than 30 unique events celebrating fun, food and drink around the region’s art galleries, wineries and microbreweries between 19-28 July.

Gordon Becker

JE WEL CAVE

CABIN FEVER FES T

W H ALE MIGR ATIO N

056

THE ORIGINAL N AT U R A L B A S E L AY E R. MADE BETTER Our new evolution of Bodyfitâ&#x201E;˘ is a versatile system of merino base layers designed to bring you our signature softness, breathability and odour management. This next generation of base layer features updated fit, style and refined design details.

The worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best base layer, now made better.

I N-STO R E & O N L I N E

FA MILY

W IL D FREE A ND

—Think Ubud is just for yogis and soul searchers? Think again. This Balinese town surrounded by serene rice terraces and lush forest may be the island’s spiritual heart but Sue White discovers it’s also an unforgettable family paradise—

M O NKEY FORES T

T H E T R AV ELLER

059

CA MP U H A N RID GE WALK

Get creative ALL AGES

> Ubud doesn’t have a lot of playgrounds but on the outskirts of town, it does have Yellow Coco Creative Nest, which hosts classes in puppetry and family acro yoga under a huge canvas tent. On Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, kids under four and their carers flock to the Early Years Creative Play group, where dance, stories and water play are all part of the mix.

As this is in a quiet location, it can be worth getting your driver to wait. fb.me/yellowcocoubud

Curl up with a book

Jacob Hopkins

AGES 2+

> Libraries don’t typically attract tourists but Pondok Pekak Library & Learning Centre should. Just off Jalan Monkey Forest, this library and arts centre is home to over 30,000 books and an active cultural program. Kids can learn jewellery-making and gamelan (a musical ensemble) but the real gems are at the back of building, where hundreds of children’s books provide a sanctuary from the busy streets of Ubud’s centre. fb.me/pondokpekak

060

UBUD

Work on your kickflips AGES 6+ (4-6 WIT H SUPERVISIO N)

SK ATEB OARDERS AT BLUE BEAR

> Skateboarders of all ages will have a blast at Blue Bear Bali Skatepark, where group or private skating lessons provide a fun and active afternoon for everyone. Parents can join in and skate (or if they prefer to take it easy, there’s great coffee on offer), while younger children play in the toy area. It’s even a good opportunity for a dance – there’s live music on Wednesdays and some Saturdays, as well as resident music days from 11am on Sundays.

Rental gear is available. bluebearbali.com/skatepark

“CYCLE T HR O U G H Q UIE T V ILL AGE STREE TS, DENSE F ORESTS WI T H N ARR O W TR ACKS A N D PIC T URES Q UE RICE PA D DIES.”

GREENBIKE CYCL IN G TO UR

Cycle the back roads AGES 2+

> Given that an active volcano looms about a 10-minute drive from where the GreenBike Cycling Tour begins, you might assume the biggest risk on a tour in the hills north of Ubud is an unexpected flow of lava. Apparently not. Mount Batur hasn’t erupted for years; instead, it’s humans who pose the greatest risk to families enjoying this 23-kilometre ride. Guides warn: “Watch for the village kids who want to high-five you. If it’s hard, you might fall off.” With younger kids nestled on the supplied child seat and tour guides taking up the front and rear, small groups cycle through quiet village streets, dense forests with narrow off-road tracks and picturesque rice paddies. It’s hard to decide what’s most satisfying – the relative serenity of Bali’s back roads, the chance to spend an entire day surrounded by greenery or the fact that the whole thing is downhill. greenbiketour.com

See shadow puppets AGES 7+

> As Bali’s cultural centre, Ubud abounds with dance performances – there’s at least one show somewhere every evening. But venture to the back of the gallery space at Oka Kartini BnB on a Wednesday, Friday or Sunday night and it’s shadow puppets entertaining the audience.

Make no mistake, this is not an “easy” show but a traditional one, which will reward older children who can bear a slow start and appreciate the skill behind this traditional art form. The tiny performance area means you can stand to the side of the stage and watch the puppeteer and assistants at work – it’s incredibly interesting. balicultureworkshop.com

Do dinner and a movie AGES 4+

> Like your cinema sustainable, thought-provoking and super comfortable? Ubud’s unique Cinema Paradiso experience trumps Gold Class at home – not only can you have an organic, vegan meal delivered to your lounge during the show but the price of your movie ticket comes off the price of any food you order. Paradiso screens plenty of children’s movies each week and this is a “shoes off” experience. paradisoubud.com

BLUE BEAR BAL I SK ATEPARK

Take a walk and admire the views AGES 4+

> Wake the kids early and hike Campuhan Ridge before the heat hits. The two-kilometre (one-way) stretch isn’t exactly undiscovered but it’s still very peaceful. Walkers starting near the bridge on Jalan Raya Ubud (near the entry to the Warwick Ibah Luxury Villas and Spa) pass a large temple before the well-marked trail snakes past jungle-like scenery on both sides of the ridge. It can take more than two hours with a pre-schooler in tow but kids over six will handle this walk easily, especially if motivated by ice cream incentives (there are plenty of cafés at the end). The longer nine-kilometre loop is best avoided with young children.

Dive into the deep end ALL AGES

> Parents who’ve spent much of the Campuhan Ridge walk lugging a small child will be feeling the heat. The cure? An afternoon at Jungle Fish.

At this urbane pool bar attached to the upmarket Chapung Sebali resort, it’s impossible not to decompress. Even the journey to get here is relaxing – the long winding roads leading to the hotel from Ubud’s centre get quieter with every kilometre. Kids are welcome and the entry fee includes a towel. chapung.com

062

UBUD

Tour a school with a difference AGE 4+

> If the movie Avatar featured a school, it would look something like this. Set amongst lush forest about a 30-minute drive out of Ubud, Green School’s wall-free bamboo classrooms are world-renowned.

Daily guided tours of the wider campus are available (by booking online in advance only) and while it may seem a bit contrarian to spend school holidays in, well, a school, this feels more like a nature walk that also takes in the non-profit organisation’s architecture and holistic teaching principles. The school is designed to be rugged so be prepared for a hike with steps, steep inclines and meandering paths down to the Ayung River. You might actually have trouble getting the kids to leave, especially once they discover the joys of hiding among the large bamboo “chimes” in the central building.

Tour fees go towards supporting the school’s Local Scholars Program. greenschool.org

W H E R E T O S TAY > Book an eco cottage at Bali Swasti (above; baliswasti.com), a short stroll from Ubud’s famous (or infamous?) Monkey Forest, where parents can enjoy the daily yoga sessions while kids will love the circus classes and wandering the gardens. On the other side of town, De Munut Balinese Resort (demunutresort.com) is a well-priced and peaceful hotel with friendly staff, plenty of greenery and two pools.

A CL AS S AT GREEN SC H O OL

W H E R E T O E AT > Kid-friendly dining is plentiful in Ubud but at WAMM (fb.me/ whataboutmymother), the little ones can play on the soccer field outside or discover the toy corner under the stairs.

The Elephant restaurant (elephantbali.com) is a favourite for vegetarian meals – and for the view over the Campuhan Ridge. The same owners also opened woodfired pizza joint Dumbo nearby. For dessert, try the coconut ice-cream at Tukies Coconut Shop (tukiescoconut-shop.business.site).

INSIDE GREEN SC H O OL’S CEN TR AL B UILDIN G

Courtesy of Green School

HOW TO GET AROUND > Within Ubud, the streets can be busy. Footpaths are narrow and few areas are pram-friendly. Use taxis if you have young kids. DMY Tour Bali (fb.me/DMYtourtravel) takes visitors to Ubud from across Bali and have child seats. Magical Bali Tours (uniqubalitours.webs.com) offers family-friendly tours in the area, plus transfers.

Luxury & adventure in Canberra!

A rare opportunity to spend 4 days and 3 nights in the most luxurious accommodaton that Canberra has to offer, with adventure actvites all included.

Jamala dining

Hyatt Hotel Canberra

INCLUDES: 1 night at Jamala Wildlife Lodge.

5 course gourmet dinner with fine wines and Moet Champagne, plus breakfast at Jamala.

Two great animal tours plus two days admission to the Natonal Zoo and Aquarium.

2 nights’ accommodaton at the iconic Hyat Hotel Canberra, a classic Park Hyat Hotel – including breakfast.

Upgrades available

Hosted Highlights Tour of the Natonal Museum of Australia including a main course meal with a glass of wine in the stunning waterfront Museum Café.

2 tckets to Cockington Green Gardens, a fascinatng display of metculously handcrafed miniature buildings from around the world or From the 13th May to the 7th June - 2 tckets to the Dressmaker Costume Exhibiton at the Natonal Film and Sound Archive. Afer the 7th June 2019 - the package will change to 2 tckets to the Monet Exhibiton at the Natonal Gallery of Australia.

THE 4 DAY/ 3 NIGHT ADVENTURE IS PRICED FROM $1,800 PER COUPLE, WHICH INCLUDES ALL THE ABOVE! Available on selected dates from 13th May to 15th September - certain blackout periods apply. Price is for 2 adults. *Accommodaton in uShaka Lodge rooms - upgrades available at extra cost.

www.jamala.com.au | 02 6287 8444 info@jamalawildlifelodge.com.au

Bookings can only be made by phoning Jamala Wildlife Lodge on 02 6287 8444.

4 8 H O U RS IN

Bangkok —Known for its chaotic streets and colourful cuisine, Thailand’s vibrant capital is where ancient tradition and exhilarating modernity collide. Imogen Lepere shows you how to make the most of it in a weekend— WAT PH O

TEENS OF T H AIL A ND

T H AI M AS SAGE

T H E T R AV ELLER

065

THE ULTIMATE HIT LIST...

S TREET FO OD

Take a temple tour In a land full of sacred statues, there is one that looms head and shoulders above the rest, despite the fact it’s only 66 centimetres tall. The Emerald Buddha is so precious, the king of Thailand himself changes its robes three times every year. See it in its eponymous temple, Wat Phra Kaew, a compound of more than 100 magnificent buildings complete with glittering spires, elephant statues and impressive courtyards filled with the sound of barbet birds. The site includes colourful ceremonial halls as well as the Grand Palace, former residence of the Thai royal family.

Feast on street food No trip to Bangkok is complete without a street food feast and Ari – an achingly cool neighbourhood in the north of the city – is a mecca for many of Bangkok’s best street food vendors. Here, the air is thick with the smell of everything from som taam (green papaya salad) and pad thai to dried cuttlefish. Join locals in the queue at the Seng family’s stir-fried chicken and noodle stand on Friday nights – you can find it at the top of Soi Ari. They’ve been operating for over 30 years and the spicy, sweet flavour of their signature stir fry is proof that practice makes perfect.

Head to the markets

OLD TO W N CAFÉ (N OPPH AD O N JA N TR A N APAP ORN)

FLOATIN G M ARKE T

Teeming crowds, the smell of spices, the shouts of hawkers and sizzle of woks… Bangkok’s markets are like many throughout Asia but with one crucial difference – most trading happens on traditional long-tail boats floating on the city’s canals.

Damnoen Saduak is the biggest and best known floating market, while Taling Chan is a little more authentic.

If you’re up for a daytrip, Amphawa Market is on a picturesque canal lined by traditional teak houses – perfect Instagram fodder. It’s popular with Bangkokians who are happy to drive the 90 kilometres from the city centre because of the quality of seafood. On dry land, Chatuchak Market is one of the biggest in the world and an unmissable sight.

Stretch out Thai massage uses techniques that can be traced back 2500 years and is a fantastic way to gain insights into the nation’s culture while relaxing.

Wat Pho is the national headquarters for the preservation of Thai medicine and is home to a well known Thai massage school. The massages are authentic, as the expert masseuses (many of them second or even thirdgeneration masseuses) stretch you with their hands, elbows and feet to relieve you of stress. The crowds tend to thin out from around 4.30pm so combine your visit with late lunch at nearby Old Town Café (this Frenchinspired spot offers excellent coffee and a small but perfectly formed menu of Asian-style baguettes and flaky pastries). The Wat Pho complex is also home to the city’s biggest reclining Buddha statue (measuring a whopping 46 metres long).

Take in the nightlife The city’s streets take on new life after dark with performers, reps from bars and tuktuk drivers wanting to take you to “the best club in the city” all hustling for your attention beneath a rainbow of neon signs. Once you have had enough of the wonderful madness, escape on a night cruise of the Chao Phraya River, where you can see some of the city’s most famous monuments while enjoying a buffet of local dishes. Back on dry land, the roof terrace at Smalls bar is always buzzing with Bangkok’s beautiful people, although you can’t beat Teens of Thailand for cocktails such as a jackfruit infused gin and tonic.

And now for something different...

Club Jetstar Last year, Club Jetstar members bought 700,000+ exclusive fares, saving more than $22 million.

As a member you’ll get early access to our biggest sales, exclusive member only fares,* 20% off bags and seat selection.^ Plus much more...

Isn’t it time you joined them?

Club Jetstar has an annual fee of AUD/NZD $49. The fee is non-refundable. *Member-only fares are not available on all flights and days. Limited availability over public holiday weekends and school holidays. ^Discounts on fares, bags and seat selection only available on new bookings made at Jetstar.com. Jetstar Airways Pty Ltd – ABN: 33 069 720 243

B A N G KO K

067

THE DEEP DIVE...

Cycle through a secret island > As I pedal through the jungle, a crash sends me skidding into the undergrowth. Was that a monkey falling off a branch? A stilted house collapsing? I look up to see the swaying fronds of a coconut palm and a furry nut rolling away into a grove of pong pong trees.

When I emerge with only my dignity bruised, a farmer steps out from behind a tree trunk, hands me a slither of fresh mango and says with a shrug, “Mai pen rai” (no worries). It’s the Thai equivalent of Swahili’s hakuna matata, an attitude that encapsulates life on Bang Krachao nicely.

Affectionately known as “Bangkok’s green lung”, Bang Krachao is an island floating in a bend of the Chao Phraya River, where bicycles outnumber cars on the winding dirt tracks and gleaming skyscrapers, rowdy tuktuk drivers and tangles of telephone wires are swapped for a forgotten pocket of jungle with stilted houses nestled between bamboo groves.

I arrive in this well-kept secret in the south of Bangkok by mistake. I was planning on shopping around Khao San Road – the backpacker’s mecca is about 45 minutes from Bang Krachao – but my taxi driver wrinkled his nose at the idea of driving through the city’s traffic-clogged centre and decided to deposit me here instead.

“You go Bang Krachao. Much closer. And my mother lives there. I need to visit her,” he said.

SRI N AK H O N K H UEA N K H A N PARK

BA N G KR AC H AO

A peeling longboat picks me up at Klong Toei Pier and although the captain speaks no English, he seems to know exactly where I need to go. A few minutes later, I find myself at a little pontoon where a sun-wizened couple from Pae Jeob Bike Hire greet me, then kit me out with a bike and map (which proves utterly illegible).

Pulling in at what I expect to be Wat Bang Nam Pheung Nok Temple, I am instead greeted by the sight of a double bed floating above the canopy, its cool linen curtains stirring sleepily in the sultry breeze. “Welcome to Bangkok Tree House.” A smiling receptionist at this eco resort hands me a glass of iced butterfly pea tea, a local favourite. As I take in the drink’s earthy flavour, the receptionist explains that the team take a proactive approach to protecting the environment. “We remove one kilogram of trash from the river for every booking that’s made with us,” she says proudly.

068

B A N G KO K

“I RE AL ISE T H AT I H AVE AC T UALLY MISSED T HIS FEEL IN G OF WA N DERIN G A IMLESSLY IN A N ER A OF O NL INE M APS A N D GPS.”

BA N GKOK TREE H O USE

Feeling refreshed, I mount my trusty metal steed once more and ask for directions to Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park, an intriguing patch of green and blue that’s roughly in the centre of my map. She points in the opposite direction to the one I expected to go in. It’s a scene that’s repeated time and again. A saffron-robed monk murmurs softly to himself as he studies the map, gesturing me down a twisting ribbon of a lane that tapers off into jungle too thick to pass through. A venerable woman watching her grandchildren chase crickets beams toothlessly and waves me vaguely on. Next, a lady who is busy spreading fresh chillies out to dry on her porch points me back down the road from which I have just come.

As I cycle on, freewheeling over humped bridges and little paths painted with colourful flowers, I realise that I have actually missed this feeling of wandering aimlessly in an era of online maps and GPS. I have long since given up on the park when suddenly it opens up before me. Its lush lawns are scattered with young couples sipping honey and gac fruit juice, while children gather by the stream to feed a foaming mass of catfish.

I stroll into an overgrown coconut plantation where gold and scarlet birds flit around and the air is filled with their mysterious calls (the park is a key spot on the migratory path of several rare bird species). The smoky smell of barbecued seafood reminds me I’m getting hungry, so

CYCL IN G BA N G KR AC H AO

I follow my nose to Pobrak Na Bangnumpheung, a rustic restaurant shack right on the canal.

As I sit on the terrace, the city looms in the distance but all I can hear is the cook humming a Thai folk song in the kitchen and the crash of another coconut falling. Although I have ordered a curry, the waiter emerges with razor clams sizzling in ginger and garlic, which he serves with a flourish. I don’t know whether it’s a mistake caused by the language barrier or just the freshest thing on the menu for the day but it is utterly delicious. It seems a fitting end to my discovery of this sleepy backwater of Bangkok that potters along at its own pace.

Exclusive discount for Jetstar customers* *Claim your discount at jennenshoes.com.au/jetstar

SOME LIKE IT

H O T

T H E T R AV ELLER

071

A DVEN T U RE

—Hiking mountains is great but what about climbing a volcano?

Bill Fink laces up his boots and heads straight for the crater on a thrilling journey to discover the otherworldly appeal of the Big Island’s Hawaii Volcanoes National Park—

I M A G E S_ EL A N A J A D A L L A H + A A R O N H AY N E S

On all sides, a 13-kilometre ring of 125-metre tall cliffs looms like a scarred prison of rock.

Standing in the middle of the Kilauea caldera, in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, is enough to make a person feel small and fragile.

Fortunately, there are signs of life here, even from the volcano’s depths. Lush green jungle rims the crater, beckoning me upwards to a tropical paradise. Cairns – little stacks of stones called ahu in Hawaiian – mark my path along the recently re-opened Kilauea Iki Trail, which offers an escape route up a gently sloping track to the surface.

The Hawaii Volcanoes National Park encompasses about 1300 square-kilometres on the southern side of the Big Island, stretching from the Pacific Ocean to the 4100-metre summit of Mauna Loa – one of five volcanoes on the island. The area offers a wealth of opportunity for the adventurous to explore the might and majesty of nature’s dark side.

O N T HE K IL AUEA IK I TR AIL

Standing upon a vastness of blackened stone, I am surrounded by hissing steam vents, sulphurous smells and jagged outcroppings that rise from the blasted earth and reach towards me like a petrified ocean of claws.

Hikes around the park range from short, flat, wheelchair-accessible viewing boardwalks, to multi-day backcountry adventures through rock, jungle and even to a frigid, snow-capped mountain summit.

I have decided to drive to the centre of the action along the aptly named Crater Rim Drive, a roadway that allows vehicle access to the north-east edge of the Kilauea caldera. It takes me to the Kilauea Iki Outlook car park, the starting point for my trek along the Kilauea Iki Trail, an eight-kilometre “moderate to challenging” round-trip walk with a 122-metre descent to the solidified floor of the crater.

Before I launch into my hike, I stop at the Kilauea Visitor Center to check for updated information about the volcano’s condition and potential safety closures (the centre also offers educational materials and a multimedia theatre show). After Kilauea’s 2018 eruption, the park and surrounding areas suffered significant damage – many trails were closed or changed by lava flow and earthquakes.

The good news is that the volcano is currently dormant and many of the hikes have reopened.

Some of the damage from last year’s eruption even created new, interesting opportunities for exploration – including the informally named End of the Road hike along a destroyed section of Crater Rim Drive to the edge of the crater, where old roadways drop disconcertingly into the abyss.

073

M APS ARE AVAIL ABLE AT K IL AUEA VISITOR CEN TER

H A W A II

LO OK IN G D O W N IN TO T HE CR ATER

S TO NE CAIRNS (A H U) M ARK IN G T HE TR AIL

S TEA M RISIN G OFF T HE VOLCA NIC L A NDSCAPE

With the all clear and my map in hand, I head down a track and make my way towards the edge of the crater. At the side of the trail, I spot a single pineapple, incongruously plopped on a paper plate. The juicy fruit is a humble offering to Pele, the Hawaiian volcano goddess whose infernal fires continue to shape the Hawaiian Islands. Locals know that Pele’s wrath can be destructive and leave offerings such as fruit to appease her anger. I start to feel nervous about intentionally walking into a volcano but as I watch a family of four cheerfully trot down the path, I feel obligated to continue – I can’t let two kids show me up!

Looking out over the ancient caldera, which measures about three kilometres across and 13 kilometres in circumference, the scope is truly magnificent. I feel like a tiny speck of lava dust perched on the edge of a chasm carved by primordial forces, with ant-sized people scuttling along the surface below.

Across the caldera, the Halemaumau crater literally had the bottom fall out during the 2018 eruption, sinking from a depth of 85 metres to over 480 metres. In former years, visitors could actually see bubbling red lava pools (or the glow from them) but now, Pele’s living presence has been reduced only to steam, smell and the rocky creations from her prior work.

Entering the Kilauea Iki Trail, I am soon immersed in a tropical jungle a world away from the car park and bleak rock vistas below.

Giant ferns surround me and the feathery leaves of the hapu’u pulu ferns gently sway amidst the spiny red flowers of the Ohia lehua trees as chirping Hawaiian honeycreeper birds

074

H A W A II

K IL AUEA IK I OVERLO OK

5 MUSTS FOR T H E BIG ISL A N D

flit about. I half-expect a velociraptor to come charging from the trees Jurassic Park-style, but in reality, it’s only the endangered native nene geese that might waddle onto the path.

The trail gradually becomes sparse and ragged the further I descend, with only a few hardy shrubs clinging to the rocky surface.

Without the shelter of trees, the sun beats down on me with lava-like intensity. As a regular hiker, I don’t find the trail hard but the heat and humidity make it a tougher workout.

As I reach the floor of the crater’s nowsolidified lava lake, I feel like I am entering a danger zone. Geologically speaking, it’s only been an instant since the 1959 eruption created a bed of molten lava where my feet are now stepping. But with the volcano officially dormant for the first time in decades, I can peacefully marvel at the wide vista of lava rock formations around me.

Escaping the crater, I backtrack my way up the trail. It’s a sweaty journey to the surface and as I stop to catch my breath at the overlook, my gaze returns to the caldera. The panorama of steaming vents, shattered plateaus of rock and ocean-sized waves of black stone, frozen in time, make me feel like I’ve been transported a million years into the past, to the very creation of the Hawaiian Islands.

It is humbling and awe-inspiring and I can now understand why it assumes god-like significance in Hawaiian culture. Now there’s just one thing left to do – find a fruit platter as soon as possible and make my own offering to the fire goddess, Pele, just in case.

JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O H AWA I I.

NEED T O K N O W > Hiking trails and conditions can vary due to volcanic activity. Check on the latest updates. > Start early to avoid crowds and heat, stay on the path marked by rock cairns and respect closed signs and barriers. > The park has a $35 entrance fee per vehicle. For more information, visit nps.gov/havo

JE T S TA R.C O M

> Drive the Chain of Craters Road A stunning drive through national park to the coast, winding 35 kilometres past an array of photo opportunity stops and culminating in a stunning lava field-meets-Pacific Ocean vista. > Spend the night on the volcano Stay overnight at the hotel, cabins or camp sites at Volcano House (hawaiivolcanohouse.com) to get great early-morning access to hiking trails. > Drink at the Kona Pub and Brewery Volcano hiking is thirsty work so visit the source of Kona Brewing Co (konabrewingco.com), a popular local beer, to quench your thirst.

You can even go on a tour of the brewery. > Learn about (and taste) Kona coffee The Big Island is famed for its Kona coffee, with hundreds of farms small and large growing the beans. Enjoy a cup at any café or go on a tour at a plantation and roaster like Greenwell Farms (greenwellfarms.com) south of Kona. > Swim at the island’s best beaches Wash off that lava dust in the Pacific Ocean with a snorkel at a beach like Hapuna or make like a triathlete and take a long swim in Kailua Bay, where the annual Ironman World Championship takes place each October.

Discover

THE RUBY DIFFERENCE Families will fall in love with The Ruby Apartments Kids will be high-fiving with delight from the moment you arrive at the brand-new Ruby Apartments on the Gold Coast. This brand-new apartment complex is like no other and will change the way you think about holidaying on the Gold Coast.

From themed 3-bedroom Sky Suites with bunk beds, play desk, board games and brightly coloured fit out; to the onsite Kids Club; 3 story water park and interactive splash zone; Rubyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s resident Rockstars Ruby Rocket and William the Bear; your precious little gems have been at the forefront of planning this incredible new resort.

And while the kids are being entertained parents can relax and put their feet up or book in for cocktail making, trivia competitions or enjoy some wine and cheese tasting.

At Ruby our aim is to make the parents holiday as good as the kids, and our ambassadors are on hand to help out as much or as little as you like.

Book Your Experience www.therubycollection.com.au

T HE T R AVELLER

L IT TLE M AY ESPRES S O

BR O U H A H A

076

F O O D SAFARI

THE

—There’s more to the Sunshine Coast than its beautiful beaches and world-class surf. Sudeshna Ghosh heads to the hinterland for an indulgent weekend road trip of eating, cooking and letting time slip blissfully by—

“WHAT’S THAT SOUND?” An insistent mechanical beeping startles me awake from my mid-morning I’ll-just-rest-my-head-herefor-a-minute snooze so I set about trying to identify its source. It takes a moment to realise the noise is coming from not one, but two birds outside. It’s an eastern whipbird pair, singing a duet – the male lets out a long, slow whistle followed by a signature whip-crack sound that the female responds to with a chirpy “chewchew”. The Disney princess-style wake-up call seems appropriate on this leisurely getaway – the whipbirds could be the happy little bluebirds to my Cinderella – and I decide that’s the perfect way to rouse on this indulgent long weekend, by bird call only.

I’m in a sprawling villa suite at Spicers Tamarind Retreat (spicersretreats.com), on Queensland’s Sunshine Coast. But this trip is mostly devoid of the area’s famous rolling surf and long stretches of sand. I’m here to explore the hinterland, a compact region of just over 20,000 hectares about 30 minutes’ drive west from Sunshine Coast Airport.

IMAGES_ KARA ROSENLUND

G O O D L IF E

S U N S HINE C OA S T

BR O U H A H A

078

I take the coastal route north, the road curving and dipping to reveal little froth-fringed coves and the shimmering blue waters of the Pacific beyond, but bypass the busy streets of Noosa to turn inland. I’ve been lured here for the food and I don’t have to go far to discover the region’s obsession with it; the Sunshine Coast is home to amazing produce and a thriving community of markets, restaurants, breweries and chefs who know how to celebrate it.

Not content with one successful food festival – May’s Noosa Food and Wine (noosafood andwine.com.au) event – the region has now debuted the Curated Plate (thecuratedplate.

“T HE LUSH R A INF OREST SE T T IN G IS T HE PERFEC T BACK DR OP F OR L A ZY SLEEP-INS A N D OPP ORT U NI T IES TO C HILL.”

R AINFORES T WALK IN G TR ACKS

com.au), a four-day festival of food trails and farm tours celebrating local, sustainable produce to be held 8-11 August.

My first stop is Sum Yung Guys (sumyung guys.com.au), a modern restaurant tucked away in a leafy backstreet of Sunshine Beach that serves up creative Asian flavours with oomph. MasterChef Australia finalist Matt Sinclair, one of the co-owners, may be the restaurant’s poster boy but it’s the personality packed into the food, cocktails, service and décor – a mash-up of Asian kitsch, leafy foliage and modern lines – that ensures Sum Yung Guys is always busy. I don’t linger here for long however, and head 70 kilometres away from the coast to Spicers Tamarind Retreat, nestled in the hinterland.

The landscape changes visibly from tropical beach to Scottish glen. Painted in innumerable shades of green (Pantone would do well to reference this corner of the world for inspiration) and with brilliant blue skies, it’s impossibly pretty. Quaint little towns with historic shopfronts set against the backdrop of the Glass House Mountains, bucolic farmland and lush rainforests make me feel like I’ve driven straight onto the set of a rom-com.

FL A ME HILL VINEYARD

The lush rainforest setting at the resort provides the perfect backdrop for lazy sleep-ins and plenty of other opportunities to chill. I could curl up with a book in one of the many inviting spots dotted around the grounds, take a walk to the nearby Gardners Falls – a popular spot for swimming in rock pools shaded by gum trees – or enjoy a pampering treatment at Spa Anise.

The only thing that could convince me to eat a three-course meal after my lunch feast is dinner at the retreat’s elegant hatted restaurant, The Tamarind. Asian cuisine and local produce are again the heroes, with sensational dishes such as Hakka-style prawn stuffed eggplant and Southern-style curry of Mooloolaba swordfish with Fraser Isle spanner crab.

I’m not just here to eat however, I’m also here to sharpen my cooking skills (yes, and then eat some more), so the next morning I make my way to the sunlight-drenched, state-of-the-art kitchen at the onsite Tamarind Cooking School.

Here, I learn new recipes and cook up a threecourse French meal (Frisée aux Lardons sounds a lot fancier than it is to make). I also forage for herbs in the organic garden and, of course, enjoy the fruits of my labour at a convivial lunch at the end.

There are more charms a short drive away so after lunch I head to Maleny, a prett y litt le holiday town just five minutes west. This is dairy country and the creamy brie, cheddars and feta at Maleny Cheese (malenycheese.com. au) and the luscious ice-creams from Maleny Food Co. (malenyfoodco.com) are a must-try.

It’s easy to lose track of time wandering between these artisanal food havens, intimate art galleries and laneway food markets, and

GEL ATO AT M ALEN Y FO OD C O

KO NDAL ILL A FALLS

I emerge from a vintage bookstore with a couple more dusty purchases than I had intended.

Nearby Montville, 15 kilometres north, has a similar vibe – old-fashioned 19th-century buildings that now house art galleries, cafés and souvenir shops line the main drag – and it’s the perfect place to stop for a house blend coffee at Little May Espresso (littlemayespresso.com) and some sweet fudge from Fudgyboombah (fudgyboombahs.com.au). There’s wine here, too, and Flame Hill Vineyard (flamehill.com. au) produces a surprisingly good fiano and a selection of other popular grapes.

There’s a certain quirkiness and sense of community that seems to pervade everything in this region, so I’m not surprised to find my dinner venue, Brouhaha (brouhahabrewery. com.au), located incongruously in a Maleny dental clinic complex (something to do with one of the founders’ other businesses, but it stops mattering when you walk in).

Brouhaha is a microbrewery and restaurant housed in a warehouse-like space. It takes a sustainable approach to their brews and food, closing the loop by feeding the spent grains leftover from brewing to Maleny cows,

080

S U N S HINE C OA S T

MORE MORE MORE...

There’s plenty to see, do (and eat) in the Sunshine Coast.

Here are some other ideas. > Head to Mary Cairncross Scenic Reserve, a rainforest overlooking the Glass House Mountains, with accessible walking tracks.

SPICERS TA M ARIND RE TREAT

> Stop by Lola’s Pantry, a new vegan café just a 10-minute drive from Sunshine Coast Airport in Kuluin. > Foodies should not miss The Original Eumundi Markets (eumundimarkets.com.au), held every Saturday in Eumundi village, west of Noosa Heads.

N O O SA FO OD A ND WINE FES TIVAL

which provide the Wagyu beef for the menu.

You might come here for their ever-evolving range of craft brews but you’ll stay for the seasonally changing, local ingredient-led menu of crowd-pleasing comfort food.

Brouhaha is a passion project and that comes through in their creative flavours.

If the Sunshine Coast hinterland ensures you eat and drink well, it also provides ample opportunity to work off the calories. On a bluesky morning, I strap on my hiking boots for a leisurely 4.7-kilometre walk through the Kondalilla Falls Circuit, only a 20-minute drive from Maleny in Kondalilla National Park.

The gentle descent through forests of ancient eucalypts and giant fig trees is stunning and ends at a tranquil watering hole at the base of Kondalilla Falls. It’s the perfect spot to take in the valley views and tuck into the picnic breakfast I’ve brought along (so much for working off calories then).

The national park is a birdwatcher’s haven, home to more than 100 species and a curiously high number of spiders and reptiles as well, because, Queensland. Here, too, the diverse music of the birds chirping – from golden whistlers and pied butcherbirds to the ubiquitous whipbird – is a constant. But this time, as I walk through stretching giant watergums and past gently trickling streams, instead of jolting me awake, birdsong is lulling me into a sense of relaxation. This mini-break seems to have all the right ingredients for a real recharge. I just wish there was a way I could bott le up this soundtrack and the feeling of utter peace that comes with it, to take back with me to the big smoke.

> Check out Palmwoods, an arty town 10 kilometres east of Montville. The 1970s vibe remains intact in these parts.

JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O T H E S U N S H I N E C O A S T.

JE T S TA R.C O M

083—104

the cut > THE BEST OF WHERE TO EAT, DRINK AND PL AY

H O BART BAL I PA PAGGEE

0098 93 M A NIL A

PA G E

084

> Jeepneys, the Philippines’ most popular form of public transport, are modelled on US military jeeps used in WWII.

C O OK ISL A N D S

PA G E

0 90

> A government mandate in the South Pacific island nation states that no building can be taller than a coconut tree.

O SAK A

PA G E

10 0

> Local chef Yoshiaki Shiraishi was inspired to create the first sushi train after watching beer on a conveyor at a brewery.

084

T HE C U T

E AT + DRINK

MANIL A â&#x20AC;&#x201D;The vibrant capital of the Philippines is buzzing with innovative restaurants and trendy cocktail bars.

Rina Diane Caballar sets off on a gastronomic adventure taste testing the most tempting Filipino fareâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;

cafés

> VIA MARE. There’s a reason this casual restaurant at Makati’s Greenbelt shopping centre has been in business for four decades – their bibingka. The warm buttered rice cake, served on banana leaves with coconut on the side is popular during the Christmas season but Via Mare make it year-round. Try one with salted egg or Laguna cheese and queso de bola (the Philippines’ version of edam cheese) for a next-level taste experience. viamare.com.ph

> FELY J’S KITCHEN. Exuding Old Manila charm with wooden tables and walls covered in black and white photos, this eatery in the shopping and dining district of Bonifacio Global City (BGC) serves hearty Filipino dishes based on family recipes. Their best-kept secret is the sikreto ni maria clara dessert – suman (rice cake cooked in coconut milk) with ripe mango slices hidden under scoops of creamy coconut ice cream sprinkled with brown sugar. Mmmm! ljcrestaurants.com.ph

L IT TLE FLO UR CAFE

> MARY GRACE. You might walk in for the whimsical décor, complete with fairy lights, glass lanterns and mechanical birds but you’ll stay for ensaymada – the quintessentially Filipino snack this café is famous for. Pair the concoction of soft, delicate bread topped with a touch of grated cheese and sugar, with one of their hot chocolate drinks, such as the tsoknut chocolate. marygracecafe.com

& bakeries M ARY GR ACE

> LITTLE FLOUR CAFÉ.

Vintage chairs hang from the ceiling setting the scene for this new, playful iteration of the celebrated Wildflour Café, known for its bread and pastries.

The coconut pie with crème sauce and cassava cake with house-made coconut jam are the best-sellers but it’s also a great place to enjoy all-day brunch offerings. There are three locations in BGC, Makati’s Salcedo Village and SM Megamall. wildflour.com.ph/littleflour

> RAZON’S OF GUAGUA. Don’t be fooled by this no-frills fast-food restaurant – no-one does halo-halo (a popular Filipino shaved ice dessert) quite like them.

The secret lies in delicious layers of sweetened bananas and macapuno (young coconut), finely shaved ice drizzled with creamy milk and a silky slice of leche flan to top it off. Visit any of their locations around Manila to taste their refreshing take on the traditional and cool treat. razonsfoodcorp.com.ph

DRINK YOUR DESSERT Indulge in tsokolate, Filipino-style hot chocolate at Café Adriatico in Malate.

It’s rich, thick and bitter with hints of sweetness. ljcrestaurants.com.ph/ restaurants/cafe-adriatico

Open Tue, Thu, Fri sat & Sun -

10% OFF TOUR PROMO CODE Visit Queen Victoria Market for fresh and specialty produce, hand-made and unique products, clothing and souvenirs, great coffee and food, and a buzzing Market atmosphere.

Be sure to take the Ultimate Foodie Tour, a two-hour guided walking tour where you’ll indulge in some of the best food the Market has to offer. Special 10% discount for Jetstar Magazine readers.

Melbourne´s Marketplace CORNER OF ELIZABETH & VICTORIA STREETS, MELBOURNE

FLYJETSTAR

087

grand > FOUR SEASONS BUFFET AND HOTPOT. A do-it-yourself concept, Four Seasons (not to be confused with the luxury hotel chain of the same name) in SM Mall of Asia offers a wide variety of greens and proteins to mix with the soup base of your choice in one steaming pot. Add a blend of herbs and spices, simmer for a couple of minutes and enjoy your creation in the sleek marble space. fourseasonshotpot.com.ph

> DADS WORLD BUFFET. This chain restaurant offers a selection of international cuisines, including Greek souvlaki, Brazilian churrasco, Japanese sushi and Mexican fajitas. Chinese sky lanterns, Japanese hand fans, tiny Filipino nipa huts and a carnival theme in the desserts section create a fun, festive and relaxed atmosphere. kamayansaisakidads.com

> SAMBO KOJIN. This SM Megamall restaurant’s specialties include Japanese yakiniku (grilled meat) and Korean barbecue.

Pick from the variety of chilled raw meats, then grill unlimited amounts at your table’s smokeless grill. Be sure to try their impressive menu of sushi, sashimi and maki rolls, too. sambokojin.com

VIK IN G S

DADS W ORLD B UFFE T

M A NIL A

feasts

> CAFÉ ILANG-ILANG. Located in the historic Manila Hotel, this upscale restaurant’s comfy highback chairs and dim lighting provide a sophisticated backdrop for the Ilang-Ilang gastronomic buffet feast waiting to be indulged in. Each night, themed dinners showcase a specific cuisine with eight live cooking stations and a dessert station. manila-hotel.com.ph

> VIKINGS. No-one does over-the-top better than this themed restaurant with locations in Makati, SM Mall of Asia, and SM Megamall – think glass chandeliers, large crystal seahorses, as well as lavish all-you-can-eatand-drink spreads. Start with the appetiser and salad bars, then stop by the carving station for the meat selections or opt for an international cornucopia of flavours with dishes such as beef gyro with cucumber raita and coconut fish with tropical salsa. Leave room for chocolate fondue and fruity pavlova. vikings.ph

FO UR SEAS O NS B UFFE T A ND H OTP OT

FAST FOOD Choose fresh produce from market-style stations and watch chefs prepare your food in open kitchens at New World Manila Bay Hotel’s Market Café. manilabay.newworldhotels. com/en/dining/market-cafe

BA NK BAR

AWARD-W IN NIN G Don’t miss the cocktails at The Curator Coffee and Cocktails, ranked at 25 on Asia’s 50 Best Bars list. fb.me/thecuratorcoffee andcocktails

> THE COCONUT CLUB. This island-inspired bar in BGC (think indoor palm tree and cocktail umbrellas) is the closest you can get to a tropical escape in the heart of the city. Their cocktails are affordable and, with larger than usual serving sizes, they pack quite a punch. Order their Calamansi-a-Go-Go, Gin Pom Pi or Pina Col Pina and chill out. raintreehospitality.net/ thecoconutclub

cool Drink in Manila’s city lights while sipping on a cocktail at this expansive rooftop hotel bar in upscale Makati.

Featuring a jellyfish aquarium bathed in luminescent lights, the bar’s tipples offer the perfect cure for the city’s bustle. Try their signature remedies, such as the Ananas in Pandanus, Mr Domango or Ube Bae. imhotel.com/antidote

> POLILYA. The colourful patterned flooring, walls adorned with leafy live plants and beer bottle light fixtures give this pub in Makati’s hip Poblacion neighbourhood an eclectic vibe. It’s home to Engkanto Brewery’s best local craft beers, like the blond ale and double IPA. Pair it with crowd favourite chicken nuggets (Hainanese chicken with ginger sauce) or fish and chips in a curried beer batter. fb.me/Polilya.MNL

bars

This intriguing speakeasy tucked away behind a convenience store in BGC transports you to an elegant hideaway with velvet-clad chairs and a cathedral-like bar complete with grand arches. Order a Pinay Colada, featuring a mix of local rums, citrus-honey meringue and a dusting of rose petals, or take your pick from any of the batch-crafted cocktails laid out on trolleys. momentgroup.ph/brands/ show/bank-bar

> AGIMAT FORAGING BAR AND KITCHEN. Named after the Filipino word for “amulet” or “charm”, this haunt in Poblacion takes inspiration from local mystical traditions. The shelves resemble a folk healer’s apothecary and an ancient-looking balete tree (believed to house supernatural beings in Filipino folklore) takes pride of place behind the bar. Their Gayuma ng Paraiso is a potent concoction, while their Ritwal ng Agimat – served in a ritualistic way, complete with chanting, drumbeats, and pouring of flamed liquor into a silver goblet – is truly magical. fb.me/agimatbar

P OL ILYA

> ANTIDOTE.

> BANK BAR.

M A NIL A

089

> RICO’S LECHON.

eats

local

> SENTRO 1771.

The European-inspired interiors and warm wood hues make you feel like you’re dining in a Filipino home but this restaurant is located in the BGC district. Sentro’s corned beef sinigang is a bold take on the classic – tamarind broth, an array of local vegetables and corned beef cured and stewed in-house. Enjoy it with rice and fresh buko (coconut) juice. sentro1771.com

TA K E A B O W Serving up traditional dishes in fine dining style, Toyo Eatery is the only Manila restaurant to make it into the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list for 2019. fb.me/toyoeatery

SEN TR O 1771

best

Hailing from Cebu, where the late Anthony Bourdain said you can find the “best pig ever”, this popular lechon (roasted pork) place recently opened a branch in the SM Mall of Asia. With its colourful leaf-print wallpaper, you can pretend you’re savouring the taste of succulent roast pig and its crispy skin in the comfort of your own tropical home. Don’t miss their spicy lechon. ricoslechon.com

> ABÉ.

Rattan-backed chairs and curved lounges are set against artist Emilio “Abé” Aguilar Cruz’s paintings and sketches in this iconic BGC restaurant. Their mutton and lamb adobo, a quintessential Filipino dish, veers away from traditional chicken or pork but the popped garlic gives it that signature taste. ljcrestaurants.com.ph

> MANAM. High ceilings, bright lights and neutral tones give this restaurant in Makati’s Greenbelt shopping centre an airy, spacious feel. Enjoy the bold yet comforting flavours of local cuisine with their crispy version of sisig, made with minced pork jowls and cheek (the crumbed tsitsaron, or deep-fried pork rind, helps the dish live up to its name), washed down with a cold San Miguel Pale Pilsen. momentgroup.ph

MANAM

> BODEGA KITCHEN AND BAR. Channelling fun and nostalgia with its blue walls, red plates, booth tables and assortment of old knick-knacks, this cool kid on the block of Salcedo Village in Makati puts a modern twist on conventional Filipino fare. Try their sinarabsab – grilled pork belly on top of grilled eggplant, drizzled with bagoong (shrimp paste) and sour cream and served with a side of green mango and tomato salsa. fb.me/bodegamakati

JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O M A N IL A.

JE T S TA R.C O M

090

T HE C U T

A N AT O M Y OF A DIS H

IK A M ATA

C O OK ISL A ND S

> W H AT IS I T? Fresh raw fish marinated in lemon or lime and then soaked in coconut cream with chopped tomatoes, onions and capsicum and a sprinkling of salt and pepper.

> H AVEN’T I SEEN T HIS BEF ORE? Similar marinated raw fish dishes can also be found in Hawaii, Tahiti, Fiji and Samoa and are known as poke, poisson cru, kokoda and ota ika.

> W HERE IS I T FR O M?

> W ILL A N Y FIS H D O?

This seafood dish belongs to the 17,500 or so people who call the Cook Islands home but it is most often eaten on Rarotonga – the largest of the archipelago’s 15 Pacific islands.

Traditionally, maroro (flying fish) is used. Fishermen head out at night, flick on their torches and catch the fish with their nets as they leap out of the water towards the bright lights.

These days, the dish is commonly made with tuna or other firm white fish such as snapper or cod.

> W H AT D OES I T ME A N? Ika mata simply means “raw fish” in local Cook Islands Maori.

> H O W IS I T M A DE? Locals fillet, dice and marinate the maroro ceviche-style with lemon juice before tossing in homemade coconut cream and fresh island vegetables, including tomatoes, capsicum and onions. You can find coconut cream in most supermarkets but to make it the islander way, crack open a coconut, pour the liquid into a bowl, grate the coconut meat, mix it all together and strain through a cloth. You can even spice up the dish with tabasco sauce, carrots, cucumber, herbs and mango for a flavourful modern twist.

> W H AT D OES I T G O W I T H? Starchy Cook Island vegetables such as earthy taro, tunu meika (cooked green bananas) or maniota (cassava), paired with a coconut water mocktail and the evening sun dipping beyond the sparkling Pacific Ocean.

W O R D S_ R A C H EL G R AY

—You’ll find this fish dish across the South Pacific archipelago, where the ingredients are so fresh you can taste the ocean in the bowl—

BROUGHT TO YOU BY JETSTAR TRAVEL INSURANCE

A GREAT HOLIDAY STARTS BEFORE YOU LEAVE HOME. TRY THESE PRE-TRIP HACKS AND GET SET FOR A STRESS-FREE GETAWAY.

1. INSTA-PLAN

The way we plan has changed; Google and Instagram have made you your own travel agent. So put the power into your palm and utilise Instagram Collections. Create a collection for each destination and bookmark accommodation, cafés and photo spots you love. Not sure what to search?

Check out geotags first and find people and businesses who have posted recently.

2. PREP YOUR PAPERWORK

Future-proof your holiday by making sure you book travel insurance so you are prepared for any unexpected surprises, and don’t forget to share the policy details with your family before you go. Check it will cover the adventures you’ve got planned and also print a hard copy to pack with a photocopy of your passport, accommodation and flight details.

3. SET UP FOR SAFEKEEPING

Cover the things your intuition can’t.

Unless you’ve got Brutus, the world’s best guard dog at home, a little bit of video surveillance goes a long way towards holiday peace-of-mind. Hook up a smart camera to keep an eye on your house via a live feed. In some models, you can even beam your booming voice over Wi-Fi to scare off that snooper. Then banish all worry about the valuables you’ve got with you by tagging your bags and tech with a tracker like Tile (thetileapp.com).

4. PACK WITHOUT PRESSURE

There are myriad packing checklists and apps to tell you what you need to bring on a trip but put a stylist’s spin on things by planning and packing outfits according to what you are doing each day. Bonus points for mix-and-match combos that reduce the load. Don’t forget to check the weather!

5. UP YOUR PEOPLE SKILLS

Make sure you mingle if you truly want to experience the local culture but go further than using a local guide or chatting with the bartender. Pre-book a language class, plan to do something domestic – like get a haircut – and seek out indie arts performances for a different spin on the destination you might only otherwise experience through its “sights”.

6. STAY ON TOP OF YOUR WELLBEING

Holidays aren’t always health retreats but your smartphone can help you stay at least semi-virtuous on the go. Most smartphones have health apps built in (or you can easily download them) to track your daily steps and sleep patterns. Pack probiotics to wage an inner battle with bugs and take time out for meditation or breathing exercises. Yes, you can do them with a cocktail in hand. Life is about balance, after all.

Get covered for your next trip.

JETSTAR.COM/TRAVELINSURANCE

Insurance products and services are provided by AIG Australia Limited, ABN 93 004 727 753, AFSL 381686, (AIG) in Australia and in New Zealand by AIG Insurance New Zealand Limited. Jetstar Airways Pty Ltd, ABN 33 069 720 243 (Jetstar), is a distributor of AIG. Jetstar is not authorised to provide any advice regarding insurance or to bind any person on behalf of AIG. To make sure the insurance is right for you, you should read and consider the policy and/or Product Disclosure Statement at jetstar.com/travelinsurance and note the limitations and exclusions in the policy, prior to making any decision to acquire the product. Cover available only to Australia and New Zealand residents.

WORDS_ SIMONE MADDEN-GREY

092

T HE C U T

H APPY H O U RS

QUEENSTOWN —Happy hour in New Zealand’s adventure capital never disappoints with laneway rum flights, teapot cocktails and New York-style pizza, all served against a backdrop of magnificent mountains and gorgeous lakes—

> LITTLE BLACKWOOD Grab a spot on the waterfront deck and be treated to exquisite views of snow-capped mountains as you imbibe cocktails with a Kiwi twist (you’ve got to try the Manuka Old Fashioned). Scrumptious platters of charcuterie and local cheese compound the problem, so just give in and take full advantage of it all. Daily happy hour from 4-6pm includes a selection of tap beers and wines ($7-$9) and if you fancy creating your own cocktail, have a chat with the team about the Trust Your Bartender offer. littleblackwood.com

L IT TLE BL ACK W O OD

Ski lodge-inspired with an eclectic twist – think teapots dangling above the bar and antlers adorning the walls – The World Bar on Church Street is the perfect après spot situated just steps away from the waterfront. Seven is the magic number here, with $7 house beer, wine, fries and their addictive mac ‘n cheese balls on offer daily from 4-5pm.

Add $6 house spirits from 9-10pm and $5 off their quirky teapot cocktails from 10-11pm. There’s live music, a beer garden and a spot next to the open fireplace in the winter. theworldbar.co.nz

“BE TRE ATED TO EXQ UISI TE V IE WS OF SN O W-CAPPED M O U N TA INS AS YO U IMBIBE C O CK TA ILS WI T H A K I WI T W IST.”

> YONDER This little stone cottage with a garden out front is an all-day favourite, from its chill-out vibes in the afternoon to its live music after hours. Whether you’re vegan, vegetarian or a meat lover (order the brisket) or you’re simply after a post-run tipple – Yonder has you covered. Try and resist their cheesy beer dough balls and wind down with $6 tap beers, wines and spirits from 3-6pm daily. Cocktails join the line-up from 9-10pm. yonderqt.co.nz

YO NDER

T HE W ORLD BAR

> THE WORLD BAR

Q U EEN S T O W N

LO MBARDI BAR

094

> LOMBARDI BAR AT HOTEL ST MORITZ

H ABA N A B O U TIQ UE RU M BAR

> HABANA BOUTIQUE RUM BAR

> FAT BADGERS PIZZA BAR The badger on the wooden doors marks the gateway to Queenstown’s answer to the New York slice, with 12- and 20-inch pizzas on offer at this Camp Street bar. ‘Appy Hour runs from 4-5pm and 10-11pm daily so grab a booth and choose from $5 tap beer, including their own Badger Beer, house wines and spirits and tuck into their indulgent classic or gourmet pizzas. Vegan and glutenfree alternatives, plus a secret menu, mean there is something for everyone but get there early to beat the queue. fatbadgerspizza.com

N O5 C H URC H L A NE

Tucked away in Searle Lane off Camp Street is a little slice of Cuba – rustic, charming and beckoning you to step inside and settle in amongst the old photographs lining the walls and the 70 or so rums crammed behind the bar. It’s perfect for a pre-dinner drink (be warned: the drinks are delicious, making it nearly impossible to stop at one) or stay a little longer and try one of their rum flights. Happy hour is 6-8pm daily and includes $10 Dark n’ Stormy and $12 house cocktails. fb.me/habanaqt

Find a window seat at this bar with a view and watch iconic steamship TSS Earnslaw as it chugs across Lake Wakatipu on one of its daily journeys.

Otago Hour, all night Tuesdays and Saturdays, and from 5-6pm as well as 9-10pm the rest of the week, has a distinctly regional flavour with Emerson’s beers ($10), local wines ($12-$20) and cocktails using local spirits ($20). Don’t miss the tapas dishes such as lemon caper calamari, pumpkin ricotta arancini and slowroasted pork belly (three for $30). stmoritz.co.nz

> NO5 CHURCH LANE For a taste of Central Otago, look no further than this swanky bar off the city’s main drag, Church Street. It’s all about sophistication here as local produce puts the region firmly on the plate and in the glass. Wild hare and caramelised onion croquettes and pinot noir and venison paté are just some of the menu options. Sip on $6 beers, $8 local wines and $10 cocktails created especially for happy hour between 5-6pm and 9-10pm daily. For a walk on the wild side, check out their absinthe menu and spend some time with the “green fairy”. no5churchlane.com

E S T. 1 9 9 9

www.shopmadeinearth.com MELLBO ME BOURNE URN E • LOS AANGELES NG ELE S • SSAN AN DIE DIEGO GO @madeinearthofficial

Photo Credit: @kayleigh.christina @ashleyspedale

096

T HE C U T

W H AT'S [ TRENDING]

FOR LUNCH? —What do coffee, burgers and bao have in common? They’ve all been given an upgrade. Here are the new culinary delights to keep on your radar— W O R D S _ K A I T LY N PA L M E R-A L L E N

BOAZZA

> As if topping tea with a foamy layer of milk and salty-sweet cream cheese wasn’t enough, coffee is the next beverage to be given the cheese treatment. Santomi Center in Kyoto, Japan, is leading the way, serving up espresso drinks – iced or hot – with lashings of cheesy goodness. Expect to see this caffeinated creation on menus around Australia soon. santomi-center.jp

> Meat-free everything rules right now and the new generation of plant-based burgers look, taste and even bleed like the real thing. Americanstyle Park Bench Deli in Singapore is melting cheddar over a fake meat patty (that will fool even the biggest of meat lovers), loading it with caramelised onions, dill pickles and special sauce and slapping it between two slices of rye bread. There’s never been a tastier way to eat your vegetables. parkbenchdeli.com

Impossible Foods

CHEESE C OFFEE

IMPOSSIBLE PAT T Y MELT

> East meets west in this culinary mash-up, which combines the best of Chinese and Italian cuisines in one tasty little package. Baozza in Shanghai, China, is rolling and folding bao – steamed bread-like buns – and stuffing them with saucy pizza toppings to bring us the classics we know and love, including Margherita, Meat Lover and Hawaiian Jalapeno flavours. Think pizza pockets (remember them?) but better. fb.me/baozza

A NEW ERA IN PORTABLE LIGHTING FOR ANY AREA

NEW

With its stunning brightness, advanced connectivity and flexible design, the new iF8R Area Light is the perfect solution for lighting up any space. It delivers amazing brightness up to 4500 lumen with an efficient cooling system for long hours of operation. Bluetooth connectivity and the Ledlenser Pro Connect app let you control the iF8R using your mobile phone, while the adjustable base with built-in magnet can be used to attach the iF8R to metal surfaces, then swivel the light around where you need it.

iF8R

Find out more at ledlenser.com.au

CONSUM EXPERIEN CE

—Art is transcending traditional boundaries to become a more immersive experience. Kate Hennessy literally eats the work of artist Kirsha Kaechele in a confronting new exhibition in Hobart—

BY ART

hen our possum and hare tortellini arrives, my dining companion senses my apprehension.

“I have possum gloves,” she says. “Kind of the same thing, right?” I’d been OK with the feral cat consommé I’d just tried, but eating the gamey, succulent possum takes a little more fortitude.

It’s hardly the most unusual food I’ve tried tonight though. The ninecourse degustation that artist Kirsha Kaechele is serving as part of her exhibition, Eat The Problem, at Hobart’s Museum of Old and New Art (MONA), also includes cane toad dressing, starfish, crickets, camel milk, brumby and a martini with an ice cube enclosing a wild boar’s eye. Everything served here is an invasive species or an animal culled on Tasmanian farms.

Not easy to tie down by definitions, this participatory art project is themed around a thought-provoking 544-page book, with recipes from Tetsuya, Peter Gilmore, Germaine Greer and art from Pablo Picasso, James Turrell and Hieronymus Bosch.

“Publishers were really confused,”

W

THE CUT

< THE DETAILS > WHERE: MUSEUM OF OLD AND NEW ART, HOBART, TASMANIA WHAT: EAT THE PROBLEM EXHIBIT COST: FREE WITH MUSEUM ENTRY WHEN: UNTIL 2 SEPTEMBER THE FEAST EXPERIENCE: AVAILABLE AS A GRAND FEAST ON JUNE 13 ($666.66). LUNCH FEASTS WILL ALSO BE HELD EVERY SUNDAY UNTIL SEPTEMBER ($222.22).

MONA.NET.AU

Jesse Hunniford

ED Kirsha says. “They were like, ‘is it an art book or a cookbook?’ and I said, ‘Well, it’s both’.” Featuring avant-garde design and imagery, combined with recipes, interviews and essays, the book, Eat The Problem (MONA Publications, $277.77), can be viewed as part of the exhibition.

While the limited-edition book is a unique showcase of culinary art, the feasts see its pages come to life and diners become part of the art. Guests must wear a single colour head-to-toe and I’ve been assigned green. Each course is monochromatic, too, and served by wait staff undertaking a mysterious choreography on the world’s largest glockenspiel (similar to a xylophone but made of metal instead of wood), which slants up a staircase in vibrant stripes of colour.

This installation, the centrepiece of the artwork, doubles as a surface on which to receive healing treatments such as reflexology – another way to open people up to what Kirsha wants to be a transformative experience.

Her work is part of a growing trend in immersive, experiential and multisensory art. According to Ben Neutze, national arts and culture editor of Time Out Australia,

“We’re curating and controlling how we experience culture more than ever before, so I think we’re craving experiences in which we’re a more active participant.”

While immersive art is becoming a strong selling point for major galleries in the digital age, something else is fuelling the trend, too. Last year, industry website ArtsHub rated the top 10 arts buzzwords and the most-used was “impact”. “We all wanted it and we were all searching for ways to make it,” wrote ArtsHub's visual arts editor Gina Fairley.

Impact was certainly achieved here by cooking up feral cat. Yet Kirsha and MONA chef Vince Trim maintain they’re not suggesting we eat cat en masse.

“We’re simply asking the question: ‘If feral cats are on your land, should you, or could you, eat them if they’re being killed anyway?” Vince says.

Cloaked beneath the beauty of Kirsha’s work is a serious eco message.

“It forces you to engage in where your food is from,” she says. “Environmental ideas are often puritanical and aesthetically uninspiring, so I had to subvert the environmentalism and make it glamorous.”

Overall, Kirsha’s work uses deeply confronting ideas to spark controversy and, from there, attempts to change how we think about food. It left me thinking about the brushtail possum who makes nightly visits to the gumtree outside my office in Sydney.

It’s a tree I’ve saved against threats to cut it down. Am I both the possum’s protector and predator now?

099

G O BE YO N D T H E C A N VA S > In Willoh S Weiland’s work Lick Lick Blink, viewers consume the female image via film, performance, music and ice cream.

Where Sydney When Until 23 June mca.com.au > Kids will love “trick-art” gallery, Artvo, where you can photograph yourself and become part of the art in 11 themed zones.

Where Melbourne When 10am to 5pm daily artvo.com.au > Catch three immersive works at National Gallery of Australia: James Turrell’s Within without, Yayoi Kusama's The Spirits of the Pumpkins Descended into the Heavens and Fujiko Nakaya's Foggy wake in a desert: An ecosphere.

Where Canberra When 10am to 5pm daily nga.gov.au

100

T HE C U T

S TREE T S T YLE

OSAKA MIX + MISMATCHED

—If you love people watching and having fun with fashion, head to Orange Street in the city’s south to find cool concept stores and boutiques—

< THE LOOK > THE EFFORTLESS HIPSTER LOOK IS ALIVE AND WELL IN THIS UP-AND-COMING LOCALS HAVE PERFECTED THE ART OF CASUALLY THROWING TOGETHER SEPARATES THAT WORK BECAUSE THEY’RE NOT MEANT TO.

> BIOTOP. Inside this eco space, a café and flower shop cosy up to a fashion and lifestyle store featuring sculptural silhouettes from local labels such as Blamink and Fumika Uchida, plus international brands like Re/Done and Stella McCartney.

It’s where architects would go to shop, eat and buy bonsai. biotop.jp

> URBAN RESEARCH. Edgy, urban and a touch utilitarian.

At this men’s and women’s store, basics such as T-shirts and trench coats hang alongside linen jumpsuits and platform sandals. urban-research.jp

Fashionsnap.com

NEIGHBOURHOOD, WHERE

THE CUT

101

THE ESSENTIALS.

MAD HATTER Top off your casual look with the right headwear. (‘Juniper’ crushable cap, $40, thenorthface.com.au)

POP OF COLOUR Bright platforms will take your outfit to new heights. (‘Sage’ sandals, $199, southofthebordersydney.com)

> FLOWER.

> PESA. Yet another chic Orange Street address where fashion and food collide. Head straight to the counter for a buttery croissant at the bakery, then up the stairs for striped T-shirts and cargo pants from the nautical-inspired Northern Truck apparel label. northobject.com/pesa

> HEAD PORTER. Come for the leather and canvas goods – think camo-coloured utility satchels, Apple watch-straps and polka dot wallets but stay for the slogan tees and hoodie shirts (it’s a hoodie and a shirt in one!).

You will leave organised and hip. store.headporter.co.jp

The garden on the footpath leads to a paper flower nursery in-store and a verdant courtyard where you can soak up the greenery and contemplate what to take home. A pretty floral skirt? Drop earrings embellished with glass flowers or “Happiness” denim jeans? It’s fresh, pretty and relaxed. flower-webshop.jp

THROW SHADE Retro frames are cool again so step back in time. (‘Festival of Summer’ sunnies, $59, theiconic.com.au)

> CARHARTT. Hooded jackets, colourful shorts, overalls and casual jeans. This US institution may have started out making clothes for railway workers but it’s now worn proudly on the backs of those who want to step into the weekend with style (and comfort). Make sure to check out Carhartt’s footwear collaborations with both Converse and Nike – these are the ultimate sneakers. carhartt-wip.jp

CARRY ON Don’t be a square, add a point of difference with a circular bag. (‘See You Around’ bag, $29.99, cottonon.com/AU/rubishoes)

THE CUT

1

103

3

2

FAS HIO N

4

Warm and fuzzy —Fight the chill factor with these snuggly sartorial choices that will have you covered from head to toe—

5

7

8

6

9

1. Asos Design fine gold knit, $60, asos.com 2. Morgan & Taylor ‘Leona’ scarf, $49.95, theiconic.com.au 3. Wide-brim hat in pink, $29.95, tkmaxx.com.au 4. Ankle boots, $89.95, tkmaxx.com.au 5. ‘Oh-Mega Fur Pom’ beanie, $60, thenorthface.com.au 6. Arvust ‘Eli’ jacket in camel, $149.95, generalpants.com. 7. ‘Setsa’ cardigan, $189, elkthelabel.com.au 8. Mountain Designs women’s ‘Liberty’ 700 goose down hooded longline jacket, $399.99, anacondastores.com 9. Morgan & Taylor ‘Rosetta’ gloves, $39.95, theiconic.com.au

SCIENTIFIC ORGANIC BEAUTY™

™

Blessing

Anti-Pollution Light Face Serum

SCIENTIFICALLY SHOWN* TO INHIBIT

OXIDATIVE STRESS IN-VITRO BY UP TO

NEW ZEALAND DISCOVER YOURS AT: David Jones and Priceline. * Trinity Bioactives: In-vitro investigation into the antioxidant effects (production of superoxide) of test products at 0.10% by activated macrophage cells, after one hour exposure (2018)

52%

105â&#x20AC;&#x201D;128

the insider > JETSTAR NEWS, ENTERTAINMENT AND MAPS

NE WS

PA G E

106

> Keep up to date with Jetstar news and our StarKids charity.

Plus, go behind the scenes with our staff profiles.

EN T ERTA IN MEN T

PA G E

> Let us entertain you with a huge selection of movies, TV shows, podcasts, music videos and much more.

10 9

A IRP O RT TO CI T Y

PA G E

114

> Heading from the airport to the city centre? Use our guide to find out the best way to get there by bus, train or taxi.

Jetstar news

STAFF Q+A.

N URT URING A BET TER FU T URE StarKids and World Vision are helping rural communities in Vietnam fight poverty and malnourishment, one family at a time. By Kervin Mathew.

> In the Dien Bien province of north-west Vietnam, Dong Ty’s everyday

meals of salt-flavoured rice rarely saw a hint of meat or vegetables.

The youngster’s parents had to spend entire days in the fields working to sustain their small family of three. Because of this, Dong Ty received little attention, was malnourished and frequently fell ill.

Attending a check-up at a World Vision-supported nutrition club in their village, Dong Ty’s parents discovered that his health was at huge risk because of his inadequate diet. It was time to act. They joined the nutrition club and started learning about child health and nutrition.

“My son was very stunted,” says Sung Thi Cam, Dong Ty’s mother.

“I learnt from the nutrition club that he needs protein from meat, fish and eggs. With the club’s support, I am now raising chickens and ducks in our garden for meat and eggs.”

Initially, the concepts of proper hygiene and how to look after a sick child were new to Sung Thi Cam but the club facilitators helped her develop an effective health regime for her son.

Through the nutrition club, Dong Ty’s parents were also introduced to other World Vision initiatives focused on improving incomes.

For example, the family were given a goat and were taught how the animals can be bred. Within a year, they had a herd of 16 goats, which they use for meat and milk and also sell – immensely helping the family to improve their financial situation. Dong Ty’s malnutrition has also significantly reduced and he’s growing taller and stronger every day.

With the help of StarKids in partnership with World Vision, many families like Dong Ty’s are finding renewed hope and are on their way to making their struggle a thing of the past.

What does your role involve? > I’m responsible for Jetstar’s Australian and New Zealand networks. I look at where and when we fly, trying to get you to the places you want to be.

What sort of qualifications and experience do you need to do a job like this? > My past is unique – I was a mergers and acquisitions consultant (in Melbourne and London) before joining Jetstar in 2014. My role in aviation network management requires me to be systematic and creative to help guide Jetstar towards the best business and customer solutions.

What is most special about working in aviation? > In London, I worked on a mergers and acquisitions deal for EasyJet. I gained an appreciation of how amazing the people in aviation are – from the brilliant cabin crew and pilots through to the expert operations teams making sure the planes leave safely and on time.

If there was one piece of advice you could give to anyone aspiring to join Jetstar, what would it be? > I would say it’s important to have a passion for travel and the courage to be yourself.

Pham Thu Trang

D O NG T Y’S PAREN TS C O N TIN UE WORKING IN T HE FIEL D BU T N OW HAVE AN EX TR A SO URCE OF INC O ME TO HELP T HEM PROVIDE BE T TER FOR T HEIR SO N

NAME SOREN WHITE POSITION SENIOR MANAGER – NETWORK PLANNING

T HE IN SIDER

WHAT A MILESTONE! We tally some big numbers to celebrate 10 years since Jetstar launched domestic flights in New Zealand.

107

In 2016, domestic routes increased from

EIGHT TO ELEVEN

WE’VE TRANSPORTED MORE THAN

Jetstar launched NZ domestic flights in 2009 with tickets for AS LITTLE AS $1

19 MILLION

In our first year, we flew more than

ONE MILLION

Kiwis, including many who had never flown before

NEW ROUTE LAUNCH. Jetstar starts flying to an exciting new destination this year – Seoul, the capital of South Korea. Flights will commence on 8 December from the Gold Coast (three times a week) and will be just over nine hours long, with the trusty Boeing 787 Dreamliners taking to the skies on this route.

Tickets are on sale now, so it’s time to start planning a trip to this modern metropolis and beyond (for some inspiration, check out our story on page 40).

NZ DOMESTIC PASSENGERS SINCE OUR LAUNCH

MOST POPULAR IN-FLIGHT SNACKS

A quarter of our passengers fly

1 Cheese and crackers 2 Bottled water 3 Coffee

FOR LESS THAN $50 domestic NZ customers travel for less than $100

Take off with a Jetstar Mastercard

Get these fantastic Jetstar benefits with your card^ Fly interest free No interest for 6 months on bookings of $300 or more (reverts to the standard interest rate for purchases of 14.99%)

Travel rewards Opt in to the Jetstar Dollars Program

0% balance transfers For 14 months from the date of card approval (reverts to the standard interest rate for purchases of 14.99%)

Choose between the Jetstar Dollars or Qantas Frequent Flyer rewards program

No payment fee For direct bookings with Jetstar

10% off on-board food and drink purchases

For more information and to apply, go to jetstar.com/cards Macquarie Bank Limited Australian Credit Licence 237502 is the issuer of the Jetstar Mastercard. Finance is subject to credit approval criteria. Terms and conditions, fees and charges apply, may change without notice, and are available upon request. Australian residents only. Jetstar Airways Pty Limited ABN 33 069 720 243 is the sole redemption partner under the Jetstar Dollars Program within the Jetstar MasterCard Rewards Program. Qantas Airways Limited ABN 16 009 661 901 is the sole redemption partner under Qantas Frequent Flyer Rewards within the Jetstar MasterCard Rewards Program. ^Terms & Conditions apply, visit jetstar.com/cards and the Jetstar MasterCard Rewards Terms and Conditions for more information.

Jetstar Airways Pty Ltd â&#x20AC;&#x201C; ABN: 33 069 720 243

T HE IN SIDER

109

In-flight Entertainment —Take off into a world of entertainment – we’ve rounded up today’s most talked-about movies and TV shows, plenty of kids’ favourites, plus hit music and podcasts to keep you occupied throughout your flight— MORE THAN 60 MOVIES AND 500 TV EPISODES AVAILABLE

ONLY $10 BLOCKBUSTER MOVIES TV COMEDY AND DRAMA KIDS’ FAVOURITES HIT MUSIC PODCASTS

> NEW RELEASE MOVIES.

Stan & Ollie

Second Act

Comedy, Drama | PG Laurel and Hardy, the world’s favourite comedy act, set out on a tour in 1953.

Comedy, Drama | M Maya is a 40-year-old struggling with frustrations from unfulfilled dreams.

© 2019 Marvel

Captain Marvel Action | M Captain Marvel follows Carol Danvers as she beomes a powerful hero. © 2019 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.

The Happy Prince

The Kid Who Would Be King

Drama | MA15+ In a hotel room, Oscar Wilde lies on his death bed and the past floods back.

Family | PG Alex thinks he’s nobody until he stumbles on the “Sword in the Stone”, Excalibur.

RATINGS

© 2019 DreamWorks Animation L.L.C. All Rights Reserved.

How to Train Your Dragon: The Hidden World Animation | PG Hiccup and the dragon, Toothless, face their biggest threat yet.

© 2019 WBEI

The Mule Drama | M In his 80s, Earl Stone is offered a job that simply requires him to drive.

G General.

PG Parental guidance recommended.

M Recommended for mature audiences.

MA15+ Not suitable for people under 15.

Under 15s must be accompanied by a parent or adult guardian.

PRE-PURCHASE IN-FLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT WHEN YOU BOOK YOUR FLIGHTS AND SAVE!

© 2001 DreamWorks Animation LLC. All Rights Reserved.

> NEW RELEASE MOVIES.

© 2019 WBEI & © DC Comics

Aquaman Action | M Reveals the origin of Arthur Curry and takes him on the journey of his lifetime.

> KIDS FLICKS. © 2019 WBEI

Head Full of Honey Drama Trying to help her grandfather, Matilda ends up going on an adventure with him.

© 2019 WBEI © 2019 The LEGO Group

The Lego Movie 2: The Second Part

Sing

Shrek

Animation | G Buster hosts a singing competition to attract more customers to his business.

Animation | PG Shrek goes on a quest to rescue Princess Fiona with the help of Donkey.

The Lego Movie

Despicable Me

Animation | PG Follows Emmet, an average LEGO minifigure who is mistakenly identified.

Animation | PG In a neighborhood sits a house. Beneath is a hideout belonging to a villain.

Trolls

The Peanuts Movie

Animation | G Welcome Trolls! When their village is invaded, two friends must work together.

Animation | G Charlie Brown embarks on an epic quest while Snoopy pursues the Red Baron.

Animation | PG The citizens are facing a new threat: LEGO DUPLO® invaders from outer space.

© 2018 Unicorn Films Pty Ltd and Screen Queensland Pty Ltd

© 2013 DreamWorks Animation LLC. All Rights Reserved.

Celeste

The Croods

Drama Celeste was once Australia’s most loved opera singer. Yet she threw it all away.

Animation | PG When their cave is destroyed, the Croods explore a spectacular landscape.

EN T ER TA IN MEN T

111

> COMEDY DUOS.

© 2019 WBEI

© 2019 WBEI

© 2019 WBEI

The Campaign

The Wedding Singer

Wedding Crashers

Comedy | MA15+ Two rival politicians face off in a small South Carolina congressional district.

Romance | M Robbie has a regular gig singing at weddings and a fiancée who breaks his heart.

Comedy | M Two divorce attorneys have figured out a way to meet women: they crash weddings.

© 2000 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.

© 2017 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.

© 2019 WBEI

Snatched

Rush Hour

Comedy | M Two friends awaken with no memory but discover they were involved in espionage.

Comedy | MA15+ After her boyfriend dumps her, Emily persuades her mother to travel with her.

Action | M When detective Lee’s pupil is kidnapped, he travels to the US to find her.

© 2016 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.

Dude, Where’s My Car?

> FOREIGN FILMS.

> FAVOURITE MOVIES. Monster-in-Law

Hidden Figures

Master Z: Ip Man Legacy

Romance | M Engaged to marry Kevin, Charlie has second thoughts after meeting his mother.

Drama | PG An elite team of black female mathematicians at NASA helped win the space race.

Action | M After his defeat by Ip Man, Cheung Tin Chi tries to leave the world of martial arts behind but trouble finds him.

> TELEVISION.

© 2019 Viacom International Inc. All rights reserved.

Kim’s Convenience (Season 2)

Paw Patrol (Season 4)

Comedy | M The funny and heartfelt story of The Kims, a Korean-Canadian family who run a convenience store in downtown Toronto. A diverse landscape of people and places – with the Kim family at its core.

Kids | G An animated series starring a pack of six heroic puppies who are led by a boy named Ryder. With a combination of clever problem-solving, cool vehicles and humour, the Paw Patrol work together to protect the community.

© Disney

Big Hero 6: The Series (Season 1) Kids | G Hiro, Baymax and their team protect the city from villains.

© 2019 WBEI

© 2018 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All rights reserved.

© 2019 WBEI

Tree Climbing Lions

Castle Rock (Season 1)

Lifestyle | PG Follows Alexander Braczkowski as he counts the dwindling numbers of lions and leopards.

Drama | MA15+ An epic saga of darkness and light, played out on a few miles of Maine woodland.

© 2018-2019 Fox and its related entities. All rights reserved.

© 2018-2019 American Broadcasting Companies. All rights reserved.

Fresh Off the Boat (Seasons 4 & 5) Comedy | M Eddie Huang and his family have assimilated into the American lifestyle.

© 2018 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All rights reserved.

Mom (Season 5)

Family Guy (Season 16)

Free Solo

Peppa Pig

Comedy | M Christy’s sobriety has given her the ability to see her life clearly.

Comedy | MA15+ A subversive animated comedy about the trials and tribulations of family life.

Lifestyle | M Alex Honnold prepares to attempt the first-ever free solo climb of El Capitan.

Kids | G Peppa Pig follows the adventures of Peppa along with her family and friends.

EN T ER TA IN MEN T

113

> MUSIC VIDEOS.

> ALBUMS.

Khalid

What A Time To Be Alive Tom Walker

The Great Expanse Hilltop Hoods

A multi-instrumentalist and vocalist born in Scotland and raised in Manchester, Tom rose to fame after the release of his single “Leave a Light On”. His debut album features a blend of soul, pop and reggae.

When We Fall Asleep, Where Do We Go? Billie Eilish The debut studio album

by American singer Billie Eilish serves up esoteric lyrics with a blend of bassheavy goth and ethereal melodies. It includes the title track, plus “Bad Guys” and “Bury A Friend”.

> PODCASTS & RADIO.

Roxy Jacenko

Nine ARIA awards, half a billion global streams and multi-platinum sales – the legacy of the Hilltop Hoods is already undeniable. The trio helped establish hip hop as a local genre in Australia and this is their eighth album.

The Great Country Songbook Adam Harvey & Troy Cassar-Daley Join two of Australia’s favourite country artists as they take you on a journey through a collection of timeless country classics and pay homage to their musical heroes.

NOVA Network Triple M Network WSFM KIIS Network: Kyle & Jackie O HIT Network Gold FM Triple M Network We Fact Up Lady Startup: Natalie Bassingthwaighte

New Hits Various The freshest new clips from today’s biggest artists featuring Khalid, Birds of Tokyo, P!NK, Odette, Dean Lewis, Sam Smith with Normani, Middle Kids, The Chainsmokers and 5SOS.

00s + 10s Various Millennium hits for you to enjoy featuring Taylor Swift, Katy Perry, Peking Duk, One Direction, Maroon 5, Imagine Dragons, Jessica Mauboy, Flo Rida and Metro Station.

90s Various Pearl Jam, Billy Joel, Mariah Carey, Silverchair, Des’ree, Will Smith, Celine Dion, Diana King and Human Nature are just some of the hit music artists included in this line-up.

80s Various Featuring awesome clips from Terence Trent D’Arby, Survivor, REO Speedwagon, A Flock Of Seagulls, John Farnham, Thompson Twins, Mr. Mister, Fairground Attraction and Deacon Blue.

I Don’t Know How She Does It – Girls: Amna Karra-Hassan Osher Gunsberg Podcast: Tanya Hennessy Feed Play Love: Shevonne Hunt The Pass Food: Jo Barrett PodcastOne Australia Hitched: The Bridal Party No Filter: Roxy Jacenko

Lady Startup: Diem Fuggersberger The Property Couch: Bryce Holdaway & Ben Kingsley Game On: Pete Curulli & Dan van der Meer The Disruptive Entrepenuer: Rob Moore The Slow Home Podcast: Brooke & Ben McAlary

SYDNEY. >

TAXI ABOUT $45

>

>

AIRPORT TO CIT Y Touching down in a new city?

Here's how to get to the centre of the action your way.

>

TAXI ABOUT $40

>

BUS $4.80 Bus Route 380, which takes its name from the Airbus A380 aircraft, departs T1 and T2 and is a limited stops service, terminating at Elizabeth Quay Bus Station in the city centre.

For those travelling from T3 and T4, Route 40 operates daily between the airport and Elizabeth Quay Bus Station.

>

TIP...

The Experience WA smartphone app gives you access to the latest information on local tourist attractions, restaurants, accommodation, transport options and more.

TRAIN $18.70 Catching a train into the city is easy and takes about 10 minutes. Grab the T8 Airport and South Line towards City Circle, which stops at Central Station.

> BUS $5.80 While it does not head into the CBD, Route 400 operates between Bondi Junction in the city’s east and Burwood in the west.

You can catch the bus from outside the T1 International and T3 Domestic terminals. > TIP...

Trains and buses from the airport start around 5am daily and end at midnight.

ADELAIDE.

PERTH. “ONCE YOU HAVE TASTED FLIGHT YOU WILL WALK THE EARTH WITH YOUR EYES TURNED SKYWARDS, FOR THERE YOU HAVE BEEN AND THERE YOU WILL LONG TO RETURN.” LEONARDO DA VINCI (LATE ARTIST/ INVENTOR)

>

MELBOURNE. (TULLAMARINE)

TAXI ABOUT $30

>

BUS $10.40 (DAYTRIP) The JetBus and doubledecker JetExpress airport to city services depart the terminal from Sir Richard Williams Avenue and stop at Currie Street in the city centre. From there, it is just a short walk to Adelaide Oval, Rundle Mall and the city’s main train station on North Terrace.

> TIP...

If you are staying in the city of churches for the weekend, purchase a $25 Metrocard Visitor Pass.

The ticket gives tourists unlimited travel on buses, trains and trams across three consecutive days.

TAXI ABOUT $65

>

BUS $19.50 The Skybus Melbourne City Express departs the airport every 10 minutes and stops at the busy inner city Southern Cross Station. From there, you can catch another bus, train, tram or slip into a cab at the taxi stand located directly outside on Spencer Street.

> TIP...

Explore the CBD onboard the free City Circle tourist tram between 10am and 9pm from Thursday to Saturday and between 10am and 6pm from Sunday to Wednesday.

MELBOURNE. (AVALON)

> TAXI ABOUT $130 TO MELBOURNE, $50 TO GEELONG >

BUS $22 TO MELBOURNE, $18 TO GEELONG The SkyBus Avalon City Express takes about an hour to travel from Avalon Airport to Southern Cross Station in Melbourne CBD. If you are heading to Geelong, the SkyBus Avalon Geelong Express takes about 40 minutes to reach the port town.

> TIP...

Download the handy Avalon Airport smartphone app for information about transport, car hire, parking and flight schedules.

T HE IN SIDER

BRISBANE.

GOLD COAST.

HOBART.

>

>

>

TAXI ABOUT $45

> TRAIN $18.50 The Airtrain is a quick and easy option for travelling from the airport into the city. Trains depart every 15 minutes during peak hour and every 30 minutes during off-peak periods.

The Airtrain takes just 20 minutes to get to Central Station in the city centre.

The service starts at 5am on weekdays and 6am on weekends and the last train departs at 10pm. >

TIP...

Download the BNE app to help you find transport options, maps, where to dine and shop, parking information and more.

TAXI ABOUT $60

> BUS $21 The SkyBus Gold Coast Airport Shuttle operates seven days a week and is a dedicated service for visitors travelling from the airport to the Gold Coast’s most popular tourist spots. The shuttle departs from outside the airport terminal and stops at Burleigh Heads, Broadbeach, Surfers Paradise and Southport.

TAXI ABOUT $50

> “NO MATTER HOW YOU TRAVEL, IT’S STILL YOU GOING.” JEFF GOLDBLUM (ACTOR)

BUS $19.50 The SkyBus Hobart Express service operates daily and departs regularly from the airport. The bus takes about 30 minutes to travel to the city centre, stopping at Brooke street Pier before terminating at 19 Macquarie Street, which is located behind the Grand Chancellor Hotel.

> TIP...

Download the Hobart Cabs 131 008 smartphone app to order and track your taxi from the airport.

For everything to see, eat, sleep, shop and play in Hobart, get The Guides

by Lonely Planet app.

> TIP...

Gold Coast Cabs offer special flat rate fares from the airport to accommodation located in Surfers Paradise ($65) or Broadbeach ($55).

CAIRNS.

BALLINA.

DARWIN.

>

> TAXI ABOUT $100 TO BYRON BAY

>

TAXI ABOUT $30

> BUS $6 The Airport Connect bus departs from Cairns Airport every 30 minutes from 4.30am until the last flight of the day. The bus takes passengers on a 10-minute trip to a bus depot at Sheridan Street in the city, where they can continue their journey on a Translink public bus.

Alternatively, you can book a shuttle into the city for $6 one-way with Backpacker Shuttle Cairns. > TIP...

It is not a joke – crocs are about! Look out for the red and yellow signs around town and stay croc aware.

> “IF YOU DON’T GET OUT OF THE BOX YOU’VE BEEN RAISED IN, YOU WON’T UNDERSTAND HOW MUCH BIGGER THE WORLD IS.” ANGELINA JOLIE (ACTRESS)

115

BUS $7.20 The Route 640 bus from Ballina Airport takes close to an hour to make the 37-kilometre journey to the popular beachside town of Byron Bay.

> TIP...

If you prefer to have your transport organised and booked in advance, check out the Ballina Byron Gateway Airport website for information about shuttle bus services.

For those who want to explore and find their own way, all major car rental companies are represented at the airport.

TAXI ABOUT $30

>

BUS PRICE ON BOOKING The Darwin City Airport Shuttle Service is available seven days a week to take you from the airport to your accommodation in the city. The shuttle departs every 20 minutes during peak period and services all major flights to the airport. Online bookings must be made 24 hours in advance.

> TIP...

If you are staying at the Mercure Darwin Airport Resort or Novotel Darwin Airport Hotel, a free shuttle bus service is available for transfer from the terminal to your accommodation.

BALI. >

TOKYO. “I TRAVEL LIGHT. I THINK THE MOST IMPORTANT THING IS TO BE IN A GOOD MOOD AND ENJOY LIFE, WHEREVER YOU ARE.” DIANE VON FURSTENBERG (FASHION DESIGNER)

TAXI ABOUT $7 TO KUTA

>

BUS $2 There are a range of bus options to choose from but a popular choice is the bright green Kura-Kura tourist bus, which stops at most major locations across the island. The closest departure point to the airport is outside the Aston Kuta Hotel, which is a brisk 16-minute walk from the terminal.

(NARITA AIRPORT)

>

TAXI ABOUT $250

>

>

TRAIN $37 The Narita Express or N’EX departs every 25 to 40 minutes and takes under an hour to reach Tokyo Station. Buy your ticket at JR EAST Travel Service Centers, which are located inside each of the three airport terminals.

> BUS $11 The Keisei group’s Tokyo Shuttle takes 90 minutes to reach the city centre near Tokyo Station.

> TIP...

Knowing how to say a few phrases in the local lingo can go a long way in Bali.

To ask a local to help you call for a taxi, try saying, “Bisa tolong untuk telepon dan order taksi?”

OSAKA. (KANSAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT)

> TIP...

Grab the free shuttle to travel between the airport’s three terminals.

TAXI ABOUT $250

> TRAIN $28 Ride the Kansai Airport Express Haruka to Tennoji Station. There you can easily catch another train to Osaka or stay on the same train and head directly to Kyoto, which takes about 75 minutes. >

BUS $19 Travel in luxury aboard the Kansai International Airport Limousine Bus, which will take you directly to Osaka or Kyoto (for $31).

> TIP...

Taxis are expensive. Travel by train or bus instead.

HO CHI MINH CITY.

SINGAPORE.

FIJI.

>

>

> TAXI ABOUT $10 TO NADI

TAXI ABOUT $10

> BUS $1 The Route 109 bus departs the airport every 15 to 20 minutes between 5.30am and 1am. The bus travels to the city centre (District 1), terminating at 23/9 Park via Pham Ngu Lao backpacker district and the Ben Thanh bus station.

Travel time depends on traffic but the yellow bus generally takes about 30 minutes to reach the city. > TIP...

Show the name of your hotel to the bus conductor so the driver can tell you where to get off. It is also handy to have a map available on your phone.

TAXI ABOUT $35

> TRAIN $2 The Changi Airport MRT Station (CG2) is located under Terminal 2. Take the train to Tanah Merah station and change to the East West Line heading towards City Hall. > BUS $9 The City Shuttle bus departs every 15 minutes during peak periods and every 30 minutes during off-peak. The trip to the city takes 25 minutes and stops at most major hotels. > TIP...

Save your roaming budget and connect to the free Wi-Fi at Changi Airport.

> “THE BEST WAY TO TRAVEL ABROAD IS TO LIVE WITH THE LOCALS.” ZACH BRAFF (ACTOR)

BUS $11 Airport Shuttle Fiji operate a 24-hour shuttle service from Nadi International Airport to most major hotels and resorts in Nadi.

Bookings must be made at least one day prior to arriving at the airport.

> TIP...

It is an offence for taxi drivers to take passengers without having their meter running. If your driver is not using a meter, note the taxi registration number and report it to the police.

The driver may have their license suspended and receive a fine.

A IRP O R T T O CI T Y

AUCKLAND.

QUEENSTOWN.

HONG KONG.

117

HAWAII.

> TAXI ABOUT $60

> TAXI ABOUT $25

> TAXI ABOUT $50

(DANIEL K INOUYE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT)

> BUS $16 The SkyBus departs the airport every 10 minutes and takes approximately 55 minutes to arrive in the centre of Auckland.

Alternatively, Super Shuttle can take you straight to your accommodation for $23 for the first passenger and $9 for every extra passenger travelling in the same group.

> BUS $5 The Orbus departs the airport every 15 minutes and takes approximately 25 minutes to reach the town centre. For $13, you can opt to share an 11-seater Super Shuttle for a convenient, tailored door-to-door journey from Queenstown Airport to your accommodation.

> TRAIN $20

> TAXI ABOUT $61 TO WAIKIKI

> TIP...

The Auckland Transport mobile app makes it easy to move around the city.

Download the app to help you plan and track AT Metro buses, trains and ferry services in real time.

> TIP...

If your accommodation is anywhere in the centre of Queenstown, you can simply rely on foot power to get around – most things in the adventure capital are within easy walking distance.

The Airport Express departs every 10 minutes and takes around 24 minutes to reach Hong Kong Station in the bustling business district.

> BUS $6 The Cityflyer route A21 is ideal for travellers heading into the city and perfect for those who want a preview of Hong Kong from the bus window.

Buses depart every 15-20 minutes from the airport.

> TIP...

Download the MTR Next Train app to keep track of real-time train schedules.

> BUS $4 Routes 19 and 20 depart from the second-level roadway at Honolulu Airport and stop off at downtown Honolulu, Ala Moana Shopping Centre and the hotel-dense Waikiki precinct.

> TIP...

Taxi drivers are referred to as “ambassadors of aloha”.

They are proud of their island and love pointing out landmarks and places of interest. Ask questions – you never know what local secrets you might learn.

W HE RE W E F LY Here’s how to get around our network – have fun planning your next trip.

INTERNATIONAL. Seoul

Shanghai (Pudong) Guiyang

Hanoi

Dong Hoi

Phuket Penang Medan

Nagoya (Chubu)

Okinawa

Shantou/Jieyang Hong Kong Haikou Sanya

Da Nang Siem Reap Bangkok Phnom Penh

Yangon

Osaka (Kansai)

Taipei

Guangzhou Chiang Mai

Tokyo (Narita)

Xuzhou

Zhengzhou

Hawaii (Honolulu)

Clark

Manila

Ho Chi Minh City Kuala Lumpur

Singapore Jakarta Surabaya

Bali (Denpasar) Darwin Fiji (Nadi)

Cairns

Cook Islands (Rarotonga)

Brisbane

Gold Coast

Perth

Sydney Adelaide

Flights are operated by Jetstar Airways and commence 8 December (Gold Coast–Seoul), subject to regulatory approval Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Jetstar Asia Operated by Jetstar Pacific Operated by Jetstar Japan

Auckland

Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Wellington Christchurch Queenstown

T HE IN SIDER

DOMESTIC VIETNAM.

119

DOMESTIC JAPAN.

Hanoi Sapporo

Hai Phong Thanh Hoa Vinh

Shonai

Dong Hoi Nagoya (Chubu)

Hue Da Nang Chu Lai

Matsuyama Osaka Fukuoka Takamatsu Nagasaki Oita Kochi Kumamoto Miyazaki Kagoshima

Quy Nhon

Pleiku

Tokyo (Narita) (Kansai)

Tuy Hoa Buon Ma Thuot Nha Trang Da Lat

Okinawa Miyako (Shimojishima)

Ho Chi Minh City

Phu Quoc

Flights are operated by Jetstar Japan and commence 1 August (Tokyo-Shonai), subject to regulatory approval

Operated by Jetstar Pacific

Operated by Jetstar Japan

AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND.

Auckland Napier

New Plymouth

Darwin

Nelson Cairns Townsville Hamilton Whitsunday Coast Island Mackay

Queenstown

Sunshine Coast

Ayers Rock (Uluru)

Brisbane

Palmerston North Wellington

Christchurch Dunedin

Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Eastern Australia Airlines for Jetstar Airways

Gold Coast Ballina Byron Newcastle

Perth

Sydney

Adelaide

Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Auckland

Melbourne (Avalon) Wellington

Launceston Hobart

Operated by Jetstar Airways

Christchurch Queenstown

PUZZLES 1

2

3

4

7

5

6

CROSSWORD

20

Across 7 Customary observance (6) 8 In one piece (6) 9 Calmly (8) 10 Surname of picture A (4) 11 First name of picture B (5) 13 Pause indicator (5) 16 Steamy (weather) (5) 17 Author of My Brilliant Career, ... Franklin (5) 21 Barry Humphries’ alter ego, Dame ... Everage (4) 23 Muriel’s Wedding actress, Toni ... (8) 24 Choux pastry treat (6) 25 Local inhabitant (6)

8

9

10

11

12

13

14

15 17

16

18

19 21

22

23

25

24

© Lovatts Puzzles

PICTURE A

PICTURE B

QUIZ 1 At 11.2 times the size of earth, what is the largest planet in our solar system?

2 True or false: the idiot fruit tree is a real tree that only grows in Queensland, Australia.

3 In 1893, which country became the first nation in the world to grant women the right to vote?

4 Mike Cannon-Brookes and Scott Farquhar are the

Down 1 British surveyor and Burke’s exploring companion (5) 2 Ratatouille vegetable (8) 3 First name of picture C (6) 4 LP material (5) 5 Solar body (4) 6 Police college (7) 12 Tropical tuber (3) 14 Egg dish (8) 15 Media magnate, Rupert ... (7) 18 Lord Howe or Rottnest (6) 19 Neck warmer (5) 20 Australian long-distance running icon, ...

Moneghetti (5) 22 Not fully shut (4)

PICTURE C

co-founders of which Australian software company?

5 Physalia utriculus, or the Pacific Man o’ War, is commonly known as what?

6 Which Melbourne-born actor (pictured far right) stars alongside Connie Britton in the true crime television series Dirty John?

7 The Grampians National Park, a nature reserve known for its sandstone mountain ranges, is located in which Australian state?

CROSSWORD AND PUZZLES COMPILED BY LOVATTS

8 What is the name of the Vietnamese dish that consists of pickled vegetables and meat tucked inside a crunchy baguette?

9 Two horizontal stripes, one red and one white, make up the flag of which island nation?

10 Which novel by Australian author Liane Moriarty was turned into an award-winning television series of the same name?

11 Cirque, moguls and schussing are all terms used in which sport?

T HE IN SIDER

121

SUDOKU

6 7

9

1

8

4

7

3

5

1

3

6

4

8

9

7

4

8

5

5

3

7

8

6

9

7

5

3 5

4

9

4

5

1

9

3

4

7 1 8

4 1

3

6 7

6

2

3

7

6 6

9 5

4 9

EASY

6

1

4

HARD

WHEEL WORDS

P R

H A

C E D

S U

12 Which is taller: Kuala Lumpur’s Petronas Twin Towers or the Eiffel Tower in Paris?

13 What name is given to a freeroaming feral horse in Australia?

14 What is the title of the 2012 hit that launched K-pop star Psy’s fame?

15 According to Forbes magazine, who became the world’s youngest billionaire ever at the age of 21 in March this year?

16 What historic event took place in Australia on 1 January 1901?

Create words of 4 letters or more using the given letters once only, but always including the middle letter. Do not use proper names or plurals ending with S. See if you can find the 9-letter word using up all letters.

18 good

26 very good

33+ excellent

17 What does VHS (the outdated video tape cassette media technology) stand for?

18 What light alcoholic drink is famously made by mixing beer and lemonade?

19 Companies Kathmandu, Fisher & Paykel and Xero were all founded in which country?

20 According to nautical terminology, where on a boat are you if you are standing at the ship’s bow (hint: it’s the opposite end to the stern)?

SOLUTIONS ON PAGE 126

Find the solutions on page 126.

C O

L

R Q K

O R

A D O C

Z

F

S

Y

C A

L

B

A

R

D A Q M A

I

E Q

C O R

K

A

Y

Y M B

H

L

L

I

I

E

E

A

I

S

A

T

D A N N R

K

S

L

U G

Y

P

C

Y

E

L

L

A

V H

T

A

E

D A

A

S

X

S

L

K

S

E

A

U

E

N

T

C

J

T

T

O E

A

T

K

V Q A

A

T

Z

L

P

C

L

A

R

A

A

Y

S

G

U

A

S

H

Y

C A

J

A

E

N

B O

S

N U

Z

A G O

T

V

K

R

S

N

Y

R

X M S M E

B

E

A

U G

I

T

S

T

O R M A

D U

A D A D U

S

There are 21 desert-themed words hidden in the grid. Search up, down, forwards, backwards and diagonally for the words.

Can you find them all?

AR ID ASI A ATAC A M A BL ACK R O CK C AC T U S C A MEL C OLO R A D O DE AT H VALL E Y DES OL AT E D U NES D U ST STO R M EGYP T G RE AT SA N DY K AR A K U M M O JAVE PATAG O NI A SALT L AKE SA N DY SE AS SEC H U R A SN AKE T H AR

Which is slower, heat or cold?

Cold is slower because you can catch it!

9

How did Jack Frost get to work?

By icicle.

Why are leprechauns so concerned about global warming?

3

4

7

8

1

They’re really into green living.

What do you call a storm of Pokémon?

A Pokémonsoon!

3

Squidnappers.

Who serves food at the Death Star restaurant?

SO URCE: FU NKIDS JOKES.C O M

He was stuffed.

Who held the baby octopus for a ransom?

1 6

5 3

9 7

9

6 8

2

Why couldn’t the teddy bear finish his piece of birthday cake?

7

1

2 4

6

9 3

9

2 2 3

8

8

1

5

9

4 1

Darth Waiter.

P U ZZLES

Can you spot the EIGHT DIFFERENCES between these two images? Circle what’s changed on the image below.

1 SPORT Test your knowledge with these super fun, totally awesome trivia questions.

1 Which sport uses equipment called wickets?

2 Which sport is played on a green?

3 In a tennis Grand Slam tournament, the men play best-of how many sets per match?

2 SCIENCE 1 Which organ pumps blood through the body?

2 Which group of animals have scales?

3 Which animal do tadpoles turn into?

4 True or false: water begins to boil at 75°C.

3 AUSTRALIANA 1 What does “ANZAC” stand for?

2 In which Australian city would you find the Opera House?

3 What does a koala eat?

4 In which state would you find Uluru?

123

le! the cast chaos at e h t d t u in U can f Check o , See IF YO en h ), we n da t il a d t an FIND ME see is h is u n a yo c n u lso, ca t a ll yo od law. A woo f (bu ea rd a n d b e woo f ’s it h y, e w k wiza rd spot my m e ra, n da’s ca bon e, we d ’s ea h ite b r wiza rd w w ’s la d and o sc ro ll , rs? bin ocu la Handford, 019 Martin rved. y? © 1987–2 l rights rese Al .

Where’s Wall Ltd s ok Walker Bo published by

More things to find...

„

Three cats

A woman wearing a red

A man riding a horse

A man without a shirt on

and white polka dot dress

A ball and chain

P U ZZLES

125

A man pulling a funny face

A man tickling someone

A book on the ground

A group of men running away

A man sleeping

with a feather

Five men tied up with rope

A man holding a log

126

P U ZZLES

SOLUTIONS CROSSWORD

G W Z R I T U A L C A L P L A C I D S Y H M I S S M N H U M I D S R C E D N A J O A C L A I R E F H R

S A V I N T A C A A N R U D L Y E L C O M M Y M Y A M I L E S S S L O L L E T T E T A N A T I V E E D

C O

T

L

R Q K

A

E E

A D O C

Z

F

S

Y

C A

R

L

B

A

D A Q M A

I

E Q

E

A

I

S

A

L

U G

Y

P

C O R

K

Y

Y M B

H

L

L

I

I

E

T

D A N N R

K

S

C

Y

E

L

L

A

V H

T

A

E

D A

A

S

X

S

L

K

S

E

A

U

E

N

T

C

J

T

T

O E

A

T

K

V Q A

A

T

Z

L

P

C

L

A

R

A

A

Y

S

G

U

A

S

H

Y

C A

J

A

E

N

B O

S

N U

Z

A G O

T

V

K

R

S

N

Y

R

X M S M E

B

E

A

U G

I

T

S

T

O R M A

A

D

O R

D U

S

A D A D U

© Lovatts Puzzles

WHEEL WORDS Aced, Ache, Acre, Arch, Cape, Card, Care, Carp, Case, Cash, Chap, Char, Crud, Cued, Curd, Cure, Cusp, Dace, Each, Pace, Puce, Race, Scar, Scud, Such, Ached, Arced, Cadre, Caped, Caper, Cared, Cause, Chase, Cedar, Cheap, Crash, Crude, Crush, Cured, Curse, Paced, Pacer, Parch, Peach, Perch, Raced, Reach, Recap, Ruche, Sauce, Scare, Scrap, Space, Arched, Carped, Cashed, Caused, Chased, Chaser, Cursed, Parsec, Preach, Ruched, Sacred Saucer, Scared, Scrape, Search, Spruce, Crashed, Crusade, Crushed, Parched, Scraped, Spruced, Purchase.

9-letter word: PURCHASED

QUIZ 1 Jupiter 2 True 3 New Zealand 4 Atlassian 5 The bluebottle 6 Eric Bana 7 Victoria 8 Banh Mi 9 Indonesia 10 Big Little Lies 11 Skiing

12 Petronas Twin Towers (by nearly 128 metres)

13 Brumby 14 “Gangnam Style” 15 Kylie Jenner 16 Federation of Australia 17 Video Home System 18 Shandy 19 New Zealand 20 The front

2

6

8

5

9

1

7

4

3

9

5

3

7

4

2

1

6

8

4

7

1

6

3

8

2

5

9

8

1

6

9

5

7

4

3

2

5

4

2

3

1

6

9

8

7

7

3

9

8

2

4

6

1

5

1

8

7

2

6

5

3

9

4

6

9

5

4

7

3

8

2

1

3

2

4

1

8

9

5

7

6

1 The top of the tower is missing.

2 Ryder’s pockets are missing.

3 The cloud on the left is missing.

4 Ryder’s eyes are a different colour.

5 There’s an extra mountain on the left.

6 One of the wings in Skye’s backpack is missing.

SUDOKU 3

7 There’s an extra badge on Ryder’s jacket.

9

5

8

7

2

6

9

1

8

4

7

4

6

2

7

1

5

8

3

3

6

2

5

1

3

2

4

5

9

9

4

1

6

1

9

4

7

2

8

6

8

5

3

7

8

7

3

1

4

9

6

2

5

2

7

1

3

6

9

4

8

5

2

4

3

7

1

5

6

9

8

6

4

8

2

5

1

9

7

3

6

8

9

4

2

3

1

7

5

9

5

3

4

7

8

6

1

2

7

5

1

9

6

8

2

4

3

8

3

2

1

9

7

5

4

6

8

3

5

6

4

1

7

2

9

5

1

9

6

8

4

3

2

7

9

6

4

3

7

2

8

5

4

6

7

5

2

3

1

9

8

1

7

2

8

5

9

4

3

EASY

HARD

8 The paw prints on Zuma’s feet are missing.

Sport

Science

Australiana

1 Cricket

1 Heart

1 Australian and New

2 Golf

2 Reptiles

Zealand Army Corps

3 Five sets

3 Frogs

2 Sydney

1

4 False;

3 Eucalyptus leaves

6

it’s 100°C

4 Northern Territory

A PL ACE TO CONN EC T Winmark Wines is an extraordinary Vineyard in the idyllic wine region of Broke Fordwich, Hunter Valley with 28 acres of Chardonnay. The Estate is ideal for weddings, corporate events or peaceful family retreats.

AUTHENTIC AUTHENTIC JAPANESE JAPANESE DINING DINING

Visit VisitKenzan KenzanJapanese Japaneserestaurant restaurant forforsome someofofthe thefreshest freshestsushi sushiand and sashimi sashimidishes dishesininMelbourne, Melbourne,along along with withdaily dailychanging changingà àlalacarte carte dishes dishes and andsurprising surprisingspecials. specials.

The The restaurant restauranthas hasbeen beenininitsits current current CBD CBDlocation locationforfor3636years, years, and andis is the themost mostawarded awardedJapanese Japanese restaurant restaurantininMelbourne.

Melbourne.

BeBewelcomed welcomedbybyfriendly friendlystaff staff forforananauthentic authenticJapanese Japanese dining diningexperience. experience.

Address: Address: Collins Collins Place, Place, 4545 Collins Collins Street, Street, Melbourne Melbourne Tel: Tel: +61 +61 (03) (03) 9654 9654 8933 8933 Web: Web: kenzan.com.au kenzan.com.au

It features the monumental sculpture Biosis by sculptor David Ball, a stunning perennial and rose garden by landscape designer Paul Bangay OAM, and is home to the iconic rock, Pooles Rock.

Winmark’s many landmarks provide unforgettable views and allow an array of opportunity for the ultimate getaway.

Winmark Wines can accommodate up to 32 guests across its three stunning properties.

T: 02 9997 5373 | E: info@winmarkwines.com.au 229 Wollombi Road, Broke NSW 2330, Australia @winmarkwines | winmarkwines.com.au

1 28

T HE IN SIDER

HIGHER. BIGGER. FASTER. LONGER. EACH ISSUE WE FOCUS ON A PL ACE PU NCHING ABOVE ITS WEIG H T

N AT IO N AL GALLERY OF VICTORIA

> Look up as the sun passes over the ceiling of the National Gallery of Victoria’s Great Hall (ngv.vic.gov.au), where 10,000 pieces of hand-cut coloured glass transform the room with a kaleidoscopic display of light. This dazzling canopy at the NGV International building on Melbourne’s St Kilda Road not only looks impressive, it is the largest stained-glass ceiling in the world.

In 1963, local artist Leonard French was commissioned to create the coloured cutglass artwork. He’d never worked with glass so it took him five years to design and make but the result is a stunning 15-metre by 51-metre masterpiece that is suspended 13 metres above the ground.

The late artist used a hammer and anvil to split more than 50 different colours of 25-millimetre-thick glass, which were then fused into 224 triangular elements. Each triangle weighs up to 300 kilograms and together they create a “Persian carpet of light” that incorporates imagery from nature.

A series of slim steel pillars help support the structure from below and there’s only one way to fully appreciate the gigantic proportions of this artwork – lying on the floor and watching the light dance across the ceiling.

W O R D S _ K A I T LY N PA L M E R-A L L E N