MAR 2019
→ MAGAZINE
Fun, fearless and free. 10 epic solo holidays that will make you want to go it alone.
F R EE T O TA K E H O M E
MAGAZINE
THE POWER OF
ONE
P HIL IPPINES HAWAII T H A IL A N D BALI B Y R O N B AY CAMBODIA JA PA N TA S M A N I A
MAR 2019
VIETNAM
P L U S F A M I LY H O L I D AY S I N N E W Z E A L A N D A L O V E L E T T E R T O B R I S B A N E C H E R R Y B L O S S O M S I N T O K Y O
Fly direct to the Sunshine Coast A natural food bowl, the Sunshine Coast is one of Australia’s fastest emerging world-class culinary destinations. With its distinctive coast and country geography, the region delights with an appetising variety of producers, wineries, breweries, waterfront restaurants, food festivals, cooking schools and farmers markets.
8-11th August 2019 Australia’s newest food festival. Regionally cultivated, expertly plated. Visit thecuratedplate.com.au for more information.
Zaiyu Hasegawa, Den, Japan - two Michelin-stars, at The Tamarind, Spicers
and discover a •
900 innovative farmers and producers
•
Six exceptional dining precincts
•
740 restaurants
•
Internationally sought-after seafood
•
13 craft breweries and two gypsy brewers
•
Australia’s largest Slow Food region
visitsunshinecoast.com and
•
Six dedicated weekly farmers markets
sunshinecoastairport.com.au
Fly direct to the Sunshine Coast from Sydney, Melbourne and Adelaide with Jetstar. For more information go to:
visitnoosa.com.au
MAR 2019
CONTENTS
the traveller W HERE T O G O N E X T
the checklist ALL T HE T R AVEL IN T EL YO U NEED N O W
0 1 6 T R AV E L T R E N D S:
F O RES T B AT H I N G
Explore the wellness experience leading people into the woods.
0 1 8 P O S T C A R D F R O M ...
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.
020 TECH Travel smarter with these tech accessories.
038 SOLO ADVENTURES Experience the world your way with these exciting escapes.
0 2 2 T W O S I D E S O F...
Melbourne, Australia.
0 2 4 T R A V E L H A C K :
B U SINES S TR AVEL Expert tips on how to get through your next work trip like a pro.
0 2 6 T R AV EL T R E N D S: CABLE CARS Get high and mighty on one of these fantastic gondola rides.
0 2 8 7 M Y T H S A B O U T... Bali, Indonesia.
030 THE CHALLENGE We go shopping to find Sydney’s coolest holiday keepsake.
0 3 2 T R AV EL H AC K: S OLO TR AVEL Going it alone? Get the most out of your trip with these top tips.
034 CALENDAR Parades, food, wine and concerts – what not to miss this month.
048 TOKYO Where to see the cherry blossoms in all their glory in Japan’s capital.
006
C O N T EN T S
056 ADEL AIDE Festivals are just the beginning as we explore the great southern city.
the cut T H E BES T OF W H ERE T O E AT, D R IN K A N D PL AY
0 8 0 E A T + D R I N K : AUCKLAND
Where to tuck in for brunch, lunch and dinner in the City of Sails.
0 8 9 A N AT O M Y OF A DIS H What’s the story behind the most popular coffee, the flat white?
0 9 2 H A P P Y H O U R:
HONG KONG
The best drinking dens with deals that are easy on your wallet.
096 FOOD TRENDS It’s all about presentation and here are the coolest ways to do it.
0 9 8 M Y P L A C E:
GOLD COAST
A local creative shows off the edgier side of the Goldie.
058
066
MILFORD SOUND
SHANGHAI
Take a family road trip to New Zealand’s most impressive natural wonder.
See the sights and indulge in a more intimate experience, all within 48 hours.
101 EXPERIENCE A festival of light reveals ancient stories in Central Australia.
104 STREET STYLE
Take your style cues from Fremantle’s fashionistas.
107 FASHION
The stylish staples to keep you looking fierce this autumn.
the insider JE T S TA R N E W S, M AP S A N D EN T ER TA IN MEN T
1 1 0 JE T S TA R N E W S 1 1 3 EN T ER TA IN M EN T 118 AIRPORT TO CITY 1 2 2 W H E R E W E FLY 124 GAMES + PUZZLES 1 2 8 W H E R E’S W A L LY ? 1 3 2 H I G H E R , BI G G E R ,
F A S T E R , LO N G E R
072 BRISBANE book lover tells A the tale of how this city took her on a literary journey.
Cover photography by @vazaonde. Model @prefiroviajar. Shot at Waling-Waling Island, Coron, Philippines.
Viva antlerluggage.com.au
E DITOR I A L .
CONTRIBUTORS.
EDITOR Jacqueline Lunn DEPUTY EDITOR Sudeshna Ghosh CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jon Gregory DESIGNER Lisa Emmanuel CHIEF SUBEDITOR Nancy Merlo SUBEDITOR Kaitlyn Palmer-Allen PHOTOGRAPHIC EDITOR Nicola Sevitt
EDITORIAL INQUIRIES EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Rachel Gray Suite 58, 26-32 Pirrama Road, Pyrmont, NSW 2009 P (02) 8114 8944 E jetstar.editorial@mediumrarecontent.com
ROSALYN PAGE A freelance writer based in London, Rosalyn has worked in media for nearly 20 years. Specialising in technology and travel, she is a regular contributor and this month checks out the latest travel gear (page 20).
MANAGING EDITOR, JETSTAR Simon Tsang
A DVERT I S I N G . NATIONAL ADVERTISING MANAGER
VIC & QLD ADVERTISING DIRECTOR
Amanda Atkinson | (02) 8114 8920
Chris Joy | (03) 9292 3207
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VIC SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER
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Tim Maidment | (03) 9292 3218
NSW ACCOUNT MANAGER
VIC ACCOUNT MANAGER
Stephanie Leon | (02) 8114 8936
Angeline Gleeson | (03) 9292 2781
NZ BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER
QLD & NT ACCOUNT MANAGER
Stuart Tovey | +64 21 711 606
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ADVERTISING SALES COORDINATOR
VIC ADVERTISING COORDINATOR
Emily Whelan | (02) 8114 8908
Peggy Ford | (03) 9292 3222
MEDIUM R A R E C O N T E N T A G E N C Y . MANAGING DIRECTOR Gerard Reynolds EXECUTIVE GENERAL MANAGER Sally Wright CHIEF CONTENT OFFICER Margaret Merten DIGITAL STRATEGY DIRECTOR Karla Courtney SOCIAL STRATEGY DIRECTOR Scott Drummond CREATIVE SERVICES EDITOR Georgia Booth CREATIVE SERVICES ART DIRECTOR Philippa Moffitt FINANCE MANAGER Alvin Largado
Jetstar magazine is published monthly and is complimentary to domestic and international passengers. Published for Jetstar Airways by Medium Rare Content Agency (ABN 83 169 879 921), Suite 58/26-32 Pirrama Road, Pyrmont, NSW 2009. ©2018. All rights reserved. Printed by PMP Limited. Paper fibre is from sustainably managed forests and controlled sources. No responsibility is accepted for unsolicited material. Articles express the opinions of the authors and not necessarily those of Jetstar Airways or Medium Rare Content Agency. For a copy of Medium Rare Content Agency’s Privacy Policy, please visit mediumrarecontent.com. ISSN 1443-2013.
We want you to know that at Jetstar our writers are not armchair travellers. Any assistance we do accept from the travel industry to produce our stories does not compromise the integrity of the coverage.
For flight reservations jetstar.com For hotel bookings and holiday packages jetstar.com/hotels jetstar.com/holidays
THEODORA SUTCLIFFE Freelance travel writer Theodora has lived in Bali for five years and written for the likes of The Guardian, BBC and National Geographic Traveler. “It was really fun pulling this list together,” she says about this issue’s cover feature on solo adventures (page 38).
GWEN M c CLURE An American journalist and TV news producer, Gwen moved to New Zealand three years ago and she loved the opportunity “to learn about her adopted home from long-time locals” when writing this month’s Eat + Drink: Auckland (page 80).
W IN A HOLIDAY IN L AUNCE S T ON A I R FA R E S , A C C O M M O D AT I O N A N D S P E N D I N G M O N E Y T O T H E VA L U E O F $ 5 0 0 0
A DV E N T UR E R ?
FA MILY ?
WHAT KIND OF TRAVELLER ARE YOU?
F OODIE ?
W E L L NE S S S E E K E R ?
Do our quiz to find out your travel style. You might be surprised. Go to jetstar.com/discoverlaunceston to win the holiday of a lifetime.
CEO’S LE T T ER
Connecting more than just places > Thank you for choosing to fly with Jetstar today. Whether you are travelling for business or leisure, we always love hearing the stories behind your boarding passes. At the end of a flight from the Gold Coast recently, an 11-year-old customer and aspiring pilot named Skyler introduced himself to one of our captains and took a tour of the flight deck. Since then, Skyler has taken several more flights and our pilots in Queensland have come to know him as a real aviation expert. When our team reached out to Skyler’s family to arrange a special behind-the-scenes visit to Jetstar we also learnt that Skyler has a very special friend, Harry, who shares his love of flying.
SK YLER (LEF T) AND HARRY
“AV I AT IO N D OES N’T O NLY BRIN G T HE W ORL D CL O SER, I T AL S O BRIN G S PEOPLE T O GE T HER.”
Harry is a 97-year-old World War II pilot and the two aviation buffs have bonded over their passion for aviation. Skyler and Harry met when they both attended the local ANZAC Parade. I’ve come to realise that aviation doesn’t only bring the world closer, it also brings people together – even when there is an 86-year age difference. From the entire Jetstar team, we look forward to having Skyler and other aspiring pilots on board again soon, and we wish Skyler and Harry lots of fun as they continue to share their love of aviation. I hope you enjoy this flight and we look forward to seeing you on board again soon. GARETH EVANS CEO, JETSTAR GROUP
SCAN T HIS C O DE TO FIND O U T M ORE AB O U T SK YLER AND HARRY’S FRIENDSHIP.
011
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the checklist > ALL THE TRAVEL INTEL YOU NEED NOW
H O N G KO N G PA G E
026 H O C HI MIN H CI T Y
PA G E
018
> A 250-kilometre network of underground tunnels dating back to the Vietnam War can be found in the Cu Chi region.
BAL I
PA G E
028
> In 2014, 1000 people at Sanur Beach enjoyed a massage at the same time for 15 minutes to break a world record.
SY D NE Y
PA G E
0 30
> Australian Olympic swimmers Dawn Fraser, Shane Gould and Nicole Livingstone have Sydney ferries named after them.
T R AVEL T REN D S
Forest bathing —No, you don’t have to get wet. Step into nature and wash away stress – tree hugging has never had so many health benefits—
FOREST BAT HING IN TASMANIA
Shinrin-yoku, or “forest bathing”, has long been important to the people of Japan but it was officially introduced as part of the government’s national health program during the 1980s. Also known as nature therapy, the concept could be considered a way to wash away life’s stresses in a forest atmosphere – with no water necessary. Today, it has spread into the mainstream, appearing globally from Sydney to New York. Typically done accompanied by a qualified guide (although you can do it alone, too), forest bathing involves walking slowly amidst nature and engaging in optional healing activities to slow down and open up all of your senses. This antidote to life in the fast lane does not require you to have a high level of fitness, just the ability to focus on being fully present in nature (that means leaving your smartphone behind). With the 21st century seeing us busier than ever – partly due to our 24/7 relationship with digital technology and reluctance to “switch off” – forest bathing offers the perfect remedy for our often highly stressful lives. According to nature and forest therapy guide Kara Spence of Tasmania’s specialised tour company, Nature. Be In It., connecting with nature is a deep human need. “We seem to have forgotten that we are utterly dependent on nature for our survival,” she says.
T H E C H ECKL IS T
A NAT URE. BE IN I T. GRO UP TO UR
3 PLACES TO TRY FOREST BATHING Hobart, Tasmania > With Nature. Be In It., you can try a unique sensory forest bathing experience in a stunning setting just outside of Hobart, engaging your senses with a series of activities, including sampling fresh bush tea and local produce. naturebeinit.com
EXPLORING WI T H BAREFO OT WELLBEING
WORDS_ DANIELLE ROSS WALLS
Forest bathing can improve overall feelings of wellbeing by lowering your heart rate and blood pressure, reducing production of the stress hormone cortisol and boosting your immune system. These positive effects are believed to be due, somewhat, to the fragrant organic compounds (phytoncides) emitted by trees and plants, as well as the combination of other soothing factors, including taking the time to simply slow down. Most walks usually go for a minimum of two hours. Be prepared to notice things you may not have before – intoxicating and rejuvenating forest smells, the calming sounds of bird song or a bubbling stream, vibrant colours and unique patterns of nature, and maybe even some roaming native wildlife. Perhaps it’s more important now than ever to reconnect with nature, embrace life in the slow lane and enjoy the multitude of benefits that come along with it.
017
“T HIS A N T ID OTE TO L IFE IN T HE FAST L A NE D OES N OT REQ UIRE YO U TO H AVE A HIG H LE VEL OF FI T NESS.”
Sydney, NSW > Barefoot Wellbeing offer a range of health events that feature forest bathing and nature connection walks both in city locations, such as Sydney’s Centennial Park and the Australian Botanic Gardens, plus other areas around NSW. barefootwellbeing.com Japan > J&H Travel and Tours provide guided multi-day tours in Japan, including forest bathing as well as yoga and meditation, all set in some of the country’s most picturesque places. jhtours.com.au
WORDS_ JUSTINE LOPEZ
ILL U S T R AT IO N _ G ER G Ő GIL IC ZE
T H E C H ECKL IS T
019
P O S TC ARD FR O M
Dong Khoi area
HO CHI MINH CITY
—Historic cultural landmarks stand side-by-side with chic boutiques and hot restaurants in this colourful District 1 neighbourhood—
1 FINE ARTS MUSEUM Housed in a massive colonial-era mansion, this is one of the country’s most famous art museums. Spanning three floors, the gallery is chock-full of paintings, lacquer work and sculptures created by Vietnamese artists. fb.me/baotangmythuathcm 2 14 TON THAT DAM From the outside, 14 Ton That Dam just looks like an ageing apartment block but hidden inside are cafés, restaurants and boutiques. On the weekends, local teens fill the mazelike building, snapping selfies in the derelict yet picturesque hallways. On weekdays, it’s eerily quiet and prime for exploring. For excellent city and river views, head to the fourth floor and order a cocktail at Utakata Bar. fb.me/utakata00 3 THE WORKSHOP For a taste of the city’s café culture, this industrial-chic space is the place to go. Here you’ll find people working on their laptops, chatting with friends over lunch and sipping on cold brews. fb.me/the.workshop.coffee 4 L'APOTHIQUAIRE SPA As the name suggests, this spa takes its cues from the French and offers a long, luscious list of pampering body scrubs, wraps and massages. Their soothing After Sun Remedy for Body treatment is perfect following a day in the city’s scorching heat. lapothiquaire.vn
5 LAYLA EATERY & BAR Hidden at the top of a dark and dodgy stairwell inside a run-down colonial building is one of the city’s most stylish bars. Layla serves tasty tapas but their innovative cocktails are the reason young professionals and expats flock here after work. Expect topnotch renditions of all the classics but if you’re feeling adventurous, you can always opt for a Nutella Negroni or wasabi-vodka oyster shooter. fb.me/LaylaEateryandBarHCM 6 SAIGON OPERA HOUSE The area of Dong Khoi is known for its French-influenced architecture dating back to the colonial era. Built in 1898 by French architect Eugene Ferret, the magnificent opera house building is one of the city’s most extraordinary but it isn’t all about good looks, of course – you can also catch a show there during your visit. luneproduction.com/ saigon-opera-house 7 QUAN BUI BISTRO If you don’t want to slurp your pho at a street-side food stall, Quan Bui Bistro is an upmarket alternative. The unique menu features authentic home-style dishes from northern Vietnam, including grilled fish with dill, tangy pork soup and fried spring rolls with crab and prawn, as well as plenty of southern Vietnamese classics to sample, too. quan-bui.com
TEC H N OL O GY
Wear it, no worries —Go all Inspector Gadget with smart apparel and accessories that are cool, clever and will keep your valuables safe—
W AT ER RESIS TA N T JE A N S $217
Ever wished you could have a water repellent version of your favourite jeans for when your adventures get you wet? Now you can, without having to sacrifice style or comfort. The Ursa Jeans are skinny jeans made from an organic cotton denim with a coating to repel water, so you can stay dry and look fabulous. finisterre.com
> GADGET JACKET
PACK A BLE T EE $ 41
W O R D S _ R O S A LY N PA G E
$ 35 0
The BauBax Windbreaker 2.0 jacket may be a little exxy but it’s multi-functional and made to last. It’s water repellant, breathable and packed with travel features, including a built-in inflatable neck pillow as well as separate phone, tablet, power bank, earplug and earphone pockets. Available in two colours, the jacket has its own retractable keychain, bottle opener, whistle and stylus – there’s even a secret pocket for valuables, making it easy to keep your passport safe. baubax.com
The Bumi To-Go Short Sleeve T-shirt packs away in seconds and is designed with travel in mind. Simply fold it up into its internal pouch and stuff the whole pill-shaped package into your bag. Wrinkles? No worries. It’s made from breathable, wrinkle resistant polyester and boasts 50+ UPF sun protection, too. With offshoulder seams and flatlock stitching (that means you won’t feel them), you’ll be ready to go in maximum comfort. wearbumi.com
T H E C H ECKL IS T
SMART GEAR FOR $80 OR LESS
T R AVEL PA N T S $1 26
The Pacsafe Transit Men’s Travel Pants (available in charcoal) keep your valuables protected with seven strategically placed pockets for holding your phone, wallet and other valuables, plus a radiofrequency ID-safe pocket for protecting chip cards and passports from scan scams. Use the discreet leg pocket for stashing cash. pacsafe.com
> COMPRESSION SOCKS FROM $21
G P S T R ACK ER $1 9 9.95 (PL U S SI M PL A N)
Travelling with kids can sometimes involve venturing into crowded, unfamiliar areas, such as flea markets and train stations. But with the TicTocTrack Gator GPS tracker (available in black, blue or pink), mums and dads (and the kids) will have peace of mind if anyone is separated from the troop. The kid-friendly smartwatch can send location updates and emergency alerts to an allocated smartphone and even allows calls to trusted numbers. tictoctrack.com.au
> CLEVER HOODIE
021
Travellers needing compression socks have a smart and stylish choice with SupCare Compression Stockings. There are a range of designs for men and women, made from a high content of cotton, microfibre or bamboo. The socks are classified as Class 1, the compression level recommended for air travel and long periods of standing or sitting. compressionsockshop. com.au
> BEEP-FREE BELT FROM $40 The brainchild of a United States Department of Homeland Security airport screener, the Beep Tec Italian leather belt has metal-free buckles so travellers can pass through the security check points without setting off alarms. Available in different sizes and styles, you’ll never have to hold up your pants going through metal detectors again. beepfreeproducts.com
$173.9 9
Keep your valuables out of reach of sneaky pickpockets with the Smart Pickpocket-Proof Unisex Hoodie (available in grey or navy). With two internal pockets big enough to store a passport and smartphone and two larger pockets that will fit a tablet or e-reader, you’ll never again have to worry about keeping your tech safe from sticky fingers. clevertravelcompanion.com
> POCKET BRA
$79.95
The Ultra-Light Travel Bra with Pockets (available in black) is a smart way to keep your important possessions close to your chest. It has two foldaway pockets, a credit card sleeve and two small strap pockets for other valuables – all made from stretchy mesh to make it as light as possible. The bra itself is made from polyamide fabric with wide straps for comfort on the go. thetravelbra.com
Mordialloc Pier Extending 174 metres over Port Phillip Bay, this long, illustrious pier boasts amazing views. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perfect for a relaxing sunset stroll or throwing in a fishing line â&#x20AC;&#x201C; especially for Australian salmon.
T WO SIDES
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Peter Yan, Sam & Yass/@mapping.along
T H E C H ECKL IS T
O F M EL B O U R N E
Catani Gardens Grand avenues of Canary Island palms line the pathways of the St Kilda gardens. Picnic on the lawns, kick a ball or simply soak up the sunshine in this stunning foreshore oasis.
T HE C HECKL IS T
T R AVEL H ACK
WORK IT
[HOW TO TRAVEL LIKE A PRO] —Want to know the secrets to a seamless business trip? Four frequent travellers tell us how it’s done— Y VE T TE ADA MS
ADA M SC H WAB
“Google Trips collates my travel reservations automatically from my email and organises them into individual trips so I’ve got everything in one handy place. There’s also a suite of products that can be accessed offline – Gmail, Google Drive and Google Docs – which allow me to keep working anywhere. I also highly recommend paying a bit extra to book flexible flights – it really helps when meetings get moved or travel plans change unexpectedly. I usually prefer to stay in Airbnb apartments with a kitchen and stock up on healthy snacks and easy meals. It’s cheaper and healthier than eating in hotel restaurants 24/7.”
“To maximise the time I spend on the ground at the destination, I plan in-flight sleep patterns carefully, always putting myself in the time zone of the destination – irrespective of what cabin crew do with lights or food. Flying overnight is ideal and optimising connections is critical. On long-haul flights, I avoid alcohol and try to drink lots of water instead.”
> Genius hack: “Carry clear plastic sandwich bags – they are not only good for stashing receipts, you can also hang one on the back of the plane seat with your phone inside and watch movies.”
CA M N ORT H WAY
S OREN TR A MPEDAC H
CEO of Work Club Global “I usually eat well before flying – this means that after take-off, I can work or sleep whenever it suits me. When I reach my destination, I go to the gym straight away. Also, always booking into the same hotel in a place you visit regularly is a great idea – I enjoy getting to know the staff (and you’re more likely to get an upgrade).” > Genius hack: “Because I travel a lot, there’s not much time to recover between trips. An ocean swim does wonders to help recalibrate.”
Co-founder and CEO of Luxury Escapes
> Genius hack: “Most hotels are very accommodating with early check-in and late check-out, which is very handy when you need to get work done. Just be super polite and you can get an extension about 95 per cent of the time.”
Founder and Managing Director of Sweet & Chilli Australia “I always make an effort to be nice to the cabin crew – good manners cost nothing and this way, you are well looked after. If flying further afield, I like to refresh and reset by having a shower during a stopover and try and have a sauna on arrival – it’s like a new day. I also always make friends with the hotel concierge – they know how to get things done.” > Genius hack: “Have a driver booked to pick you up from the airport. The little extra cost is worth it for the time it saves and you can arrive at your meeting feeling fresh and stress-free.”
IL L U S T R AT I O N _ R Y O K A N E YA S U
Founder of The Creative Collective
WORDS_ STEVE COLQUHOUN
024
TR AVEL TREN D S
On the rise —Need a fresh pick-me-up? Take in stunning scenery while soaring the skies on one of these jaw-dropping cable car rides—
SK YL INE, Q UEENSTOWN
N E W ZE AL A N D
In the town of heart-stopping adventure, there’s one experience that’ll give you heart-filled eyes: the Skyline gondola ride up Bob’s Peak. Grip your seat tightly – it claims to be the steepest cable car lift in the Southern Hemisphere – as you travel 450 metres above Queenstown. The snow-capped (if you’re there in winter) Remarkables mountain range and beautiful Lake Wakatipu await your Instagram feed as you take in the glory of New Zealand’s South Island. If that’s not enough of a thrill, opting for the luge ride back down will do the trick. skyline.co.nz
CABLE CAR SK Y NE T WORK, SINGAP ORE
WORDS_ SAMERA KAMALEDDINE
SKYLINE.
T H E C H ECKL IS T
027
A U S T R AL I A
SCENIC CABLEWAY.
NG O NG PING 360, H O NG KO NG
HONG KONG
NGONG PING 360. Get out of the bustling city and back to nature with a trip to Lantau Island. Hong Kong’s biggest island boasts more than just Buddhist monasteries – it’s home to the Ngong Ping cable car. This 25-minute ride has you flying over mountainous terrain while you look out to the vast South China Sea. Keep your eyes peeled for the 34-metre bronze Big Buddha statue (this is where the glass-bottom cabin option comes in handy). Time it right to catch the sunset on your return trip. np360.com.hk
It’s no secret that the World Heritage-listed Blue Mountains, 90 minutes west of Sydney, is a must-visit. Although it’s easily accessible, the area’s vastness (more than a million hectares) makes it impossible to capture all of its forests, sandstone formations, canyons and waterfalls in one trip. The next best thing? A 545-metre journey, descending into the stunning Jamison Valley aboard Scenic World’s roomy cabins. Feel immersed in bush vibes as you tick off the highlights of the Blue Mountains, including Orphan Rock, Mount Solitary, Katoomba Falls, the Three Sisters and more, on this wilderness ride. scenicworld.com.au
HIG H W AT ER.
SI N G A P O RE
CABLE CAR SKY NETWORK.
David Hill
Lace up your hiking boots and set your offline maps for Mount Faber, the second largest hill in Singapore. Here, lush rainforest trails wind all the way up to Faber Peak – and its cable car station – that sits pretty at 100 metres above sea level. Panoramic views of Singapore’s dense city skyline and sparkling Keppel Harbour are on offer at the top, as well as on the descent via cable car to the resort island of Sentosa. Not into high-humidity walking? The aerial network also operates in reverse to take you from Sentosa up to Mount Faber. onefabergroup.com
SCENIC CABLEWAY, AUSTR AL IA
When it opened in 1974, Singapore’s cable car was the world’s first aerial ropeway system to be constructed across a harbour.
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AWANA SKYWAY. About an hour from Kuala Lumpur, in the resort town of Genting Highlands, is the country’s newest cable car system. Launched in 2016, it reaches a top speed of six metres per second but that’s not all the Awana Skyway delivers. You can also get a bird’s-eye view of a 130-million-year-old rainforest, a rather scenic midway stop to explore the Chin Swee Caves Temple and a final destination complete with a shopping mall at a crazy 1828 metres above sea level. rwgenting.com
7 M Y T H S AB O U T...
Bali
—Fancy yourself an expert on all things Bali? Long-time resident Theodora Sutcliffe presents some surprising truths and need-to-know facts about the beloved holiday destination—
MYTH #1 Bali is a country > As many as 30 per cent of all Australians believe Bali is a country all of its own – an illusion apparently shared by late singer-songwriter David Bowie, who requested his ashes be scattered “in the country of Bali”. But the island is actually just one province of Australia’s largest neighbour, Indonesia, where it sits among more than 17,000 other islands – or roughly that number, anyway… the government hasn’t finished counting yet.
MYTH #2 Yoga is a Balinese tradition > The overwhelming majority of Balinese are Hindus and meditation is an important part of their lives. Yoga poses? Not so much. While the island is bursting with spectacular yoga pavilions and lush retreats, the practice originated in India. And remember, striking yoga poses in temples – particularly for a selfie – can cause huge offence. Some popular temples have signs banning yoga, so save your splits for the studio.
MYTH #3 The sun shines all year round > The island has two main seasons – the dry (roughly April to September) and the wet (roughly October to March). But it also boasts a bewildering range of microclimates: it can bucket down all day in one spot and down the road deliver blue skies without a drop of rain. The highland town of Bedugul, in the centre-north, is so cool and rainy that locals grow cool climate fruit and veggies throughout the year.
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Everywhere is heaving with tourists > Chuck a stone over your shoulder in Kuta and you’ll be sure to hit an Australian in a Bintang shirt. But that doesn’t mean the entire island is full to bursting. For blissful rice terraces, serene jungles, waterfalls and volcano views, escape south Bali and busy Ubud for tranquil Sidemen or Munduk. The Bukit Peninsula still boasts some pristine beaches, or you can head north for tranquil smaller bays.
MYTH #6 You don’t need a licence to ride a motorbike > It may not be immediately obvious to the casual observer but there are laws of the road in Bali and you need a licence to ride a motorbike (like in most other places). Bikes are an amazing way to explore, whether you’re winding through landscapes of rice fields and waterfalls or zipping to deserted beaches – but it is key to do so safely. Wear a helmet, ensure you have valid travel insurance, follow the road rules and aim for a little more skin protection than boardies and thongs.
ALL OF I TS O W N.”
MYTH #5 All beaches are surfing beaches > Year-round surf and worldclass breaks like Uluwatu and Padang Padang has made Bali a surfing mecca since the 1970s. But that doesn’t mean every beach offers barrels, rip-tides and foaming breaks. The calm waters around Jimbaran and Sanur are perfect for families and stand-up paddleboarders, while the peaceful beaches of Amed offer access to some of the island’s finest diving.
MYTH #7 You can wear what you like > There are no laws around dress code in Bali – although you’ll need a sarong to enter most temples and you should cover your shoulders as well. But what looks great on the beach can look a lot less appropriate in town – a bikini will win you no favours at the local market. As a general rule of thumb, the further away from south Bali you get, the more skin you should cover.
AND 3 TRUTHS The entire island shuts down once a year > For Balinese New Year, or Nyepi, the entire island shuts down for a day and night. Even the airport closes and no-one is allowed onto the beaches or streets. Leave your hotel room at your peril during this time – cultural police called pecalang enforce the custom and can even put you in jail. The next Nyepi is 7 March 2019. The rice fields are a World Heritage site > It takes a complex communal system to grow rice in Bali – if one person doesn’t look after their crop, an entire village’s can be lost. Called subak, the system was developed at least 1000 years ago and UNESCO has recognised it with World Heritage status. You can cook breakfast in an active volcano > Bali’s Mount Batur and Mount Agung are both active volcanoes. While Mount Agung is currently off limits, scale Mount Batur for sunrise and your guide will help you cook eggs in the volcanic heat.
T HE C H ALLEN GE
Finding the best (non-touristy) souvenir in Sydney —Sydneysider Dilvin Yasa dodges the ubiquitous Harbour Bridge coathangers and slogan T-shirts in an effort to help her in-laws find the least tacky memento of the Emerald City—
Smart Dollar, Potts Point > After putting the word out to my friends about non-touristy, yet oh-so-Sydney souvenirs, the suggestions come in thick and fast. “Eye-wateringly expensive active wear the wearer has no intention of doing exercise in,” says one. “A framed parking ticket after a day at the beach,” says another. And finally: “[Aussie acting legend] Bryan Brown bundled in the backseat of your car.” But here, in a bargain store filled with traditional souvenirs – think Harbour Bridge key racks and kangaroo fridge magnets – my father-in-law seems most interested in a “Totally koala-fied to party” T-shirt. In the words of hip hop great Cypress Hill, “We ain’t goin’ out like that” – and the real search begins. Sydney Opera House Shop, Bennelong Point > Like all good tourists visiting our glorious city, my parents-in-law wish to check out the Opera House. What better place to mine for souvenirs than its chic gift shop? While the store stocks the usual printed tea towels, I feel rather triumphant when I clock a Monopoly Sydney Opera House Collector’s Edition board game for $80 and a CD of late Indigenous artist Gurrumul performing with the Sydney Symphony Orchestra for $35. My mother-in-law clearly goes one better because within minutes I hear her shrieking, “$600 for a Lego Expert Sydney Opera House set? I might as well remortgage my house!” Cue our swift departure. sydneyoperahouse.com
Bondi Wash, Bondi > On a 40°C summer’s day, we stumble down to the city’s most iconic beach only to discover every other person within a 100-kilometre radius has had the same idea. Leaving the one-kilometre golden stretch to the eager and the sunburnt, we go in search of the quintessential Bondi product – preferably stocked in an air-conditioned store. We find it at Bondi Wash, a brand that’s all about creating beautiful fragrances and products from native botanicals. My pick? A $25 yoga mat spray, so you can be reminded of Sydney every time you downward dog. bondiwash.com.au
David Jones, Sydney CBD > It’s a quick pit stop in this Australian icon of a department store after I have a Florence Broadhurst-related brainwave. Florence was an Australian wallpaper and fabric designer whose murder in 1977 in her Paddington studio was never solved. Her wellknown prints (with prices averaging $59.95) can be found across various homeware products, such as bed linen sets and luxurious cushions. davidjones.com.au Kinokuniya, Sydney CBD > While the last few purchases have been unique, I’m still at a loss for that quintessentially Sydney souvenir. I’m about to give up, having perused a website selling a Sydney Opera House Barbie Doll, and proceed to yell at my laptop – “What is it that all Sydneysiders love more than anything else?” Suddenly, the answer becomes clear as my gaze drops on an old cookbook by local food legend, Bill Granger. We love to eat. Racing down to my fave bookstore, Kinokuniya, the choice is obvious. The Broadsheet Sydney Cookbook for $49.95 features recipes from the city’s best-loved eateries – The Apollo, Ester, Three Blue Ducks – allowing tourists to enjoy Sydney living over and over again in their own kitchens. Even my Old Blighty visitors are sold. kinokuniya.com.au
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Dinosaur Designs, Paddington > As my father-in-law begins speaking fondly about that “koala-fied” T-shirt, it becomes clear we need to take our search to a place where kangaroo scrotum purses can never find us. We head to Paddington’s Oxford Street and straight into the stylish Dinosaur Designs. Established in 1985 up the road at the iconic Paddington Markets, the brand’s resin jewellery (bangles start from $55 each) and homewares have long been synonymous with Sydney design and craftsmanship. But I’m dismayed when I hear my mother-in-law ask the lady behind the counter if they “have anything in rose gold?” Fail. dinosaurdesigns.com.au
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MCA Store, The Rocks > Located amongst a smattering of opal stores and designer boutiques in Sydney’s most historic district lies one of my favourite places to visit with out-of-towners: The Museum of Contemporary Art and its narrow on-site gift shop. It’s filled with fun and quirky items, such as Snot Block tissues for $2.95 and the Cat Chaos Card Game for $19.95, but I’m thrilled to stumble across a book titled Alphabetical Sydney for $24.99. The colourful book doesn’t just look at the icons, it covers our way of life with “R is for Renovation” and “I is for Ibis”. My mother-in-law is just as thrilled to discover a Nanoblock Sydney Opera House set for $24.95. Take that, Lego. store.mca.com.au
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[HOW TO ACHIEVE PEACE OF MIND W HEN TRAVELLING ALONE] —Use nifty technology and a little common sense to ensure you make the most of your travels— # 1 H AVE T HREE WAYS TO AC CES S FU NDS.
# 4 BE SM ART W IT H AC C O M M O DAT IO N.
> It might sound overly cautious but solo travellers must be prepared to overcome the unexpected hiccup of a credit card being hacked, lost, pick-pocketed or swallowed up by an ATM. If you’re left relying on one piece of plastic, the rest of your trip will feel precarious indeed. Tuck an emergency stash of cash in a clever place, such as a secret pocket or bra cup and consider investing in an anti-theft backpack (myantitheftbackpack.com).
> Forget forking out for expensive hotel rooms – book a private room at next-gen hostels such as the Byron Bay YHA (yha.com.au) or Rambutan Townsville (rambutantownsville.com. au) and you can enjoy the company of other travellers and your own space. For female travellers heading to Japan, check out Tokyo’s femaleonly hotels Nine Hours Woman Kanda (ninehours.co.jp), Akihabara Bay Hotel (bay-hotel.jp), Centurion Cabin and Spa (centurion-cabin.com) and Nadeshiko Hotel (nadeshiko-hotel.jp).
> Safety app bSafe (getbsafe.com) allows designated friends and family to track your journeys. If you feel in danger, send them a distress signal along with your current location. Triggering an SOS also switches on a video recording and if you can’t tap the SOS button, a spoken phrase will also activate the alarm. The Watch Over Me (watchovermeapp. com) app works in a similar way.
# 3 M AKE NE W FRIENDS.
> Look up from that smartphone and go on a charm offensive – using old-school social skills to strike up a conversation might lead to a dining companion for your next meal or an insider tip. When dining alone, if no-one interesting is around, just grab a counter seat to chat with the bartender or prop yourself at a window to people-watch. You can also use solo table time to delete unwanted pictures on your phone, read a book or plan the next day.
# 5 KEEP IN TO U C H.
> Blanching at global roaming rates? Grab a local SIM card upon arrival (check with your service provider that your handset is unlocked before leaving home). If you’re using public Wi-Fi, phone home for free using apps like WhatsApp (whatsapp.com) or Facebook Messenger (messenger. com). Make sure to download maps in advance for offline use from Google Maps (google.com/maps), Maps.me (maps.me) or the Here WeGo (wego.here.com) app.
# 6 TR AVEL SAFELY.
> Ride-sharing services such as Uber (uber.com) have transformed the way we get from A to B. In 2018, Uber – available in more than 600 cities globally – added a raft of safety features to its app. In Australia, riders can tap the Safety Toolkit shield icon in the bottom right-hand corner to access features including emergency help. You can also share your trip details with up to five friends.
IL L U S T R AT I O N _ R Y O K A N E YA S U
# 2 D O W NLOAD A VIRT UAL C H APER O NE.
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PUT IT IN THE DIARY —No matter where you are this March, there’s plenty to enjoy—
VIC. Eat and drink: Melbourne Food and Wine Festival 8-24 March Various venues mfwf.com.au WA. HAWAII. Culture: Honolulu Festival 8-10 March Various venues honolulufestival.com
Arts: Sculpture by the Sea – Cottesloe 1-18 March Cottesloe Beach, Perth sculpturebythesea.com/ cottesloe
TAS. Film and adventure: Cradle Mountain Film Festival 29-31 March Cradle Mountain cradlemountain filmfest.com
NSW. Party: Sydney Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras Parade 2 March Oxford Street, Sydney mardigras.org.au
NEW ZEALAND. Concert: Red Hot Chili Peppers 8-9 March Spark Arena, Auckland redhotchilipeppers.com
I T'S A D AT E 14 March Potato Chip Day
QLD. Arts and culture: World Science Festival Brisbane 20-24 March Various venues worldscience festival.com.au
16 March Panda Day 23 March Puppy Day 30 March Earth Hour
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the traveller > WHERE TO GO NEXT
S OLO A DVEN T U RES PA G E
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> The tiny island of Okunoshima earned its nickname “Rabbit Island” because it is completely overrun with fluffy bunnies.
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> NZ sauvignon blanc was first commercially produced in 1979. Now it accounts for 86 per cent of the country’s wine exports.
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> In January, the city unveiled its first 3D printed footbridge. The 15-metre span can support four adults per square metre.
A DVEN T U RE
—Solo travel is on the rise – 40 per cent more baby boomers are doing it, more women than ever are thinking about it and 80 per cent of millennials prefer it. The biggest advantage? Everything is up to you. Theodora Sutcliffe shares 10 exhilarating journeys to call your own—
Pinoy Vagabonds, Lauren Riboldi
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C UL IN A RY JO U R N E Y T H AIL A ND > Solo travel doesn’t have to mean eating alone. If you adore Thai food and love to cook, join Intrepid Travel’s eight-day Thailand Real Food Adventure for a foodie journey through Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Ayutthaya and Kanchanaburi. Explore a floating market by paddleboat, cook up a northern Thai feast in a remote village, learn how to make palm sugar and central Thai fare, and feed your face with the country’s spectacular street food. Along the way, you can visit sites such as royal palaces, ancient temples and the notorious Bridge on the River Kwai. intrepidtravel.com
SIARGAO ISL AND, PHIL IPPINES
A FLOATING MARKE T IN BANGKOK
ISL A N D O DYS SE Y PHIL IPPINES > Idyllic beaches might usually be associated with romance but the Philippines holiday from Flash Pack – a company that specialises in small group adventures for solo travellers – includes camping on a desert island in Instafriendly Palawan (make sure you check out the unspoilt islands of Coron while you’re in this region). Whether you’re pedalling a bamboo bike around Manila’s historic centre, lounging on a white-sand beach, stand-up paddleboarding or snorkelling with turtles, this island-hopping adventure delivers a little slice of heaven. flashpack.com
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P O W ERF UL S OL I T U DE NE W ZEAL A ND > If you’re looking for a solo adventure, forget cruises and test your mettle on a no-frills group journey through the spectacular fjord landscapes of Doubtful Sound in New Zealand’s far south west. Look out for seals, dolphins and even penguins as you explore secret channels and deserted islands by kayak and camp in sheltered coves, where headlands and valleys reflect in the serene waters. The office never seemed so far away. realjourneys.co.nz
D O UBTFUL SO U ND
YANGT ZE RIVER, CHINA
40% THE INCREASE IN GOOGLE SEARCHES FOR “SOLO TR AVEL” (FRO M 2015-17)
C HIN A > A Yangtze River cruise is one of the all-time great Chinese adventures, where you can float through the surreal riverscapes of the Three Gorges and join in Chinese cultural activities, from tai chi to embroidery and cooking classes. Sanctuary Retreats has waived the single supplement for selected shoulder season cruises in 2019 on its luxurious ship, Sanctuary Yangzi Explorer, making a stylish escape more affordable for solo travellers than ever before. sanctuaryretreats.com
Joseph Noah, Shane Young
CR UISE AL O N G
WAVE OA H U, H AWAII > One of the great opportunities of travelling alone is the chance to learn a new skill – regardless of whether anyone around you is interested. Surf Hawaii Surf School offers serious Oahu surf exposure on the region’s epic waves for all levels, from beginner to advanced, plus everything from stand-up paddleboarding trips to whale watching, horseback riding or hanging with sea turtles. Most teachers are veteran big-wave surfers, perfect for anyone who wants to push their skills to new heights on Hawaii’s notorious swells. surfhawaii4u.com
SURFING IN HAWAII
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C ULT U RE C ALL IN G BAL I, IND O NESIA > It may be a destination-wedding mecca but there’s plenty more on offer if you join fellow independent explorers on Intrepid Travel’s nine-day Beautiful Bali for Solo Travellers experience. Rather than the chaos of Kuta and Seminyak, the journey focuses on Bali’s lush green north. You can climb Mount Batur, an active volcano, or hang out with local weavers, snorkel a beautiful reef off the coast, pedal through sleepy villages and channel your inner Elizabeth Gilbert [Eat, Pray, Love author] in Ubud, the island’s cultural capital. intrepidtravel.com
WATEG OS BEACH, BYRO N BAY
AL ING-AL ING WATERFALL, BAL I
DE T OX DEL IG H T BYR O N BAY, AU S TR AL IA > For many, the best way to improve health habits is to go hard and go solo. Byron Bay Detox Retreats sits on a beautiful beach right by Arakwal National Park and offers fasting, cleansing, yoga and massage in Australia’s spirituality capital. Want to do more than just detox? There are hikes, beaches, cafés and shopping on your doorstep. byronbaydetoxretreats.com.au Julia Ashwood
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RAPIDS RUSH
R AF TING O N T HE FR ANKL IN RIVER
TASM A NIA, AU S TR AL IA > You don’t need to go all the way to the Zambezi River in Africa or Asia’s Himalayas for a world-class rafting experience. The Franklin River, in the heart of Tasmania, roars through dramatic gorges and World Heritage-listed forest, delivering pulse-pounding class four and five rapids – some so intense you have to carry the raft around. By day, look out for wildlife including wallabies, quolls, platypus and sea eagles and by night, feast on fresh Tassie produce. It’s an epic way to build your fitness, test your limits, meet new people and get out into nature. franklinrivertasmania.com
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ZEN M A S T ERY OITA PREFEC T URE, JAPA N > If what you’re seeking from solo travel is solitude, make like poet/ musician Leonard Cohen and retreat into the world of Zen Buddhism. Favoured by Airbnb co-founder Joe Gebbia, among others, Japan’s Shoganji Zen Retreat is a rural temple in a bamboo forest with four simple tatami guest rooms. Just five minutes from Ojuki, a tiny fishing village, it’s the perfect base for meditation, coastal strolls and intense spiritual healing, while you can study everything from Japanese cooking to calligraphy and yoga. zenretreat.com
SU NRISE O N T HE MEKO NG RIVER
63% IT’S ESTIMATED T HAT MOST SOLO TRAVELLERS ARE W O MEN
Matt Jones, Masaaki Komori
M EKO N G M YS T IQ U E CA MB O DIA/VIE T N A M > While big boat cruises can be isolating for the solo traveller, G Adventures’ small-ship Mekong River Experience offers an intimate scale that’s perfect for connecting with other travellers. Plus, cabin shares are easily available. You’ll travel down the mighty Mekong in style, sailing from Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, to Siem Reap, Cambodia. Explore floating villages and bird sanctuaries, learn about the complex history of the region, wonder at the timeless Buddhist temples and taste traditional cuisine – all in one trip. gadventures.com
flower —As Tokyo warms up, visitors flock to catch a glimpse of the ephemeral cherry blossoms in bloom. Kirsty Munro reveals where to enjoy the parade of pink, minus the crowds—
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Robbin Huang, Jun Harada (previous page)
I first arrived in Tokyo nine years ago. It was the beginning of February: one of the coldest months of the year. The skies were grey, the trees were bare and the wind was biting. Coming from Sydney’s high summer and carefree days at the beach, it was a rude shock. But as March brought more sunlight and warmth, the whole city slowly woke from hibernation. Store windows came alive with vibrant spring fashions and bakeries started piling up sugary pink wagashi sweets and bean paste buns topped with salted cherry blossoms. By the end of the month, the whole city was festooned in fresh pink and bright green. Then, the magic happened: the litt le buds dotting the bare branches of the cherry blossom trees burst into bloom simultaneously, coordinated by some secret signal. Suddenly I understood the local mania of tracking the cherry blossom “front” on the morning weather report – a blushing army, advancing north each day. After the bitterness of winter, the cherry blossoms herald warmth and hope. In Japan, the brief cherry blossom season means so much more than flowers. It’s also graduation season and the time when people start at new schools and jobs. As the petals fall, many people are leaving their old
“SU D DENLY I U N DERSTO O D T HE LO CAL M A NI A OF TR ACK IN G T HE C HERRY BLO SS O M ‘FR O N T’ O N T HE M ORNIN G WE AT HER REP ORT.”
lives and starting something new. The feeling is bittersweet because, as much as we look forward to new growth, it hurts to say goodbye. Dozens of pop songs try to encapsulate that mixture of nostalgia and fleeting beauty. The cherry blossoms are only in full bloom for a scant week, at the mercy of the capricious spring weather. A crisp, sunny day and a canopy of pink demands celebration and Tokyoites, usually reserved and work-focused, join in with gusto, office workers kicking off their shoes to lounge under the trees with a well-earned drink or three. Tourists also visit from all over the world to experience the magic of spring under the rosy clouds. And therein lies the problem: how do you enjoy the beauty when there are several million other people trying to make the most of the short season? Of course, you can rent a rowboat and cruise the pink-petalled moat around the Imperial Palace at Chidorigafuchi Park,
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pay $2.50 to see the flowers with a backdrop of skyscrapers in Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden or join the raucous party that spreads out under the 1000 or so trees at Ueno Park. But there are plenty of less crowded places, where you can commune with nature and get that perfect shot under the cherry blossoms, without getting clobbered with a selfie stick. One of the most photogenic spots is Nakameguro, south of Shibuya. With trees lining both sides of the Meguro River, you can stroll beneath the blossoms during the day in relative peace, armed with a coffee from one of the cool cafés nearby such as Sidewalk Stand (sidewalk.jp). As the sun sets, pink lanterns start to glow, creating magical reflections on the water, and street stalls spring to life, selling everything from chicken skewers to pink champagne. Head to Yakitori Akira (salt-inc.co. jp) to eat on the terrace overlooking the river, under a particularly fluff y cherry blossom tree. If you’re not easily spooked, you’ll find plenty of picnic spots among the graves at Yanaka Cemetery in Tokyo’s north, next to Nippori Station. The atmosphere is far from morbid, as locals join the area’s famous stray cats and the ghosts of some very important people – including Japan’s last shogun – to
E AT > Yakitori Akira Styled like a traditional riverside house, this casual restaurant offers beautiful views of the cherry blossoms along the Meguro River, with delicious char-grilled chicken. salt-inc.co.jp/yakitori-akira-1 > Thrush Café Tucked away in Happo-en garden, this is a secret spot for cherry blossoms, overlooking a carp pond. Farm-to-table dishes and seasonal cocktails enhance the experience. happo-en.com/restaurant/ thrushcafe
DRINK > Martini Blossom Lounge Every spring, the luxury Tokyo Midtown mall creates an outdoor bar with exclusive cocktails and pink furnishings. Lit dramatically every night, the cherry blossoms offer the perfect view while you drink. tokyo-midtown.com/en
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> Hotel Graphy Nezu An easy walk from Ueno Park and Yanaka Cemetery, this charming, inexpensive hotel in a residential area gives you a real sense of downtown Tokyo. Nearby Nezu Shrine is a must-see, with cherry blossom trees and an azalea garden. After a day out, enjoy a drink on the hotel rooftop. hotel-graphy.com/en
NEZU SHRINE
> The Knot Tokyo Renovated last summer, The Knot has kept its 1979 retro charm, while offering modern rooms and co-working spaces. Just a short walk from bustling Shinjuku Station, the hotel is in front of parklands. Rent a bike from the hotel to explore nearby sakura spots, like Shinjuku Gyoen Park. hotel-the-knot.jp
T O K YO
drink sake under the flowers along Sakura-dori (Cherry Blossom Street), which starts in front of Tennoji Temple (tendaitokyo.jp/jiinmei/tennoji). Finish off a lazy afternoon under the petals with a stroll down Yanaka Ginza (yanakaginza.com), an old shopping street dotted with traditional stores and cafés, many featuring cat motifs. One of Tokyo’s most historic cherry blossom spots is surprisingly off the tourist radar. Since the Edo period (1615-1868), when the shogun Tokugawa Yoshimune established it as one of Tokyo’s first public parks, Asukayama Park has hosted revelers under its spreading branches. The park once had a small castle and wooden tea house, which have both since disappeared, but this has perhaps saved it from becoming too popular. Now, it’s a laid-back place to enjoy the blossoms, with plenty of room to spread out and admire the trees. The park is an easy walk up the hill from Oji Station but you can also take a free, dinky little monorail to the top. Locals stop to pick up picnic supplies at Ogiya (ouji-ougiya.jp), a small shop next to the station that has been making tamago yaki (rolled omelette) since 1648. While the cherry blossoms are most celebrated at the peak of their brief bloom, there’s something magical about the days that follow too, as the wind scoops up the petals in great blushing ribbons across the sky. They swirl around your feet like confetti and paint Tokyo’s rivers and canals a delicate pink, before the trees burst into vibrant green. Like the aftermath of a great party, it’s a reminder of the good times, without the hangover.
H OTEL GR APHY NEZU
LOCAL TIPS
JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O T O K YO.
JE T S TA R.C O M
> For a different view of the blossoms, head up Tokyo Tower (tokyotower.co.jp). At 333 metres, you really feel like you’re floating above pink clouds. > Many food stores sell bentos (boxed lunches) at the main parks in season but you can easily grab one from any supermarket. Blue plastic picnic sheets are also for sale at most convenience stores. > Drinking in public is generally frowned upon in Tokyo – except during the cherry blossom season. > Get to Chidorigafuchi Park early (8am) to buy a timed ticket for a row boat so you can come back later and cruise the Imperial Palace moat. Cherry blossom trees bend over the water and fallen petals turn it a milky pink. Expect to pay about $10 for 30 minutes.
Ryo Ogawa
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MILFORD SOUND
Wake up surrounded by natural wonder ‘Exceptional experience. Our overnight cruise on the Milford Mariner was the highlight of our NZ trip’ tripadvisor
0800 65 65 01 realjourneys.co.nz
T HE 360 O N...
Adelaide
—History, culture, beaches and vines – Helen Martin discovers this city has it all and then some—
C ULT U RE
Eternal sunshine
FOOD
Tucker files
> Founded by chef Jock Zonfrillo, the Orana Foundation (theoranafoundation.org) is assembling an extensive database of Australian native food, aiming to preserve and develop thousands of years of Indigenous knowledge. His three-hatted Restaurant Orana (restaurantorana. com), which champions local ingredients such as kangaroo tail, paperbark and green ants, is supplied by Indigenous communities and two foragers employed by the restaurant.
> If hitting up festivals is your thing, there’s something going on just about every month in Adelaide (festivalsadelaide.com.au). Starting in February, check out Adelaide Fringe, stay for WOMADelaide and the Adelaide Festival in March and while you’re at it, catch South Australia’s History Festival in May and the Adelaide Cabaret Festival in June. Whether it’s wine and food or music and cabaret – you’ll find it all in Adelaide.
SP O R T
Keeping score
> The heritage scoreboard at Adelaide Oval (adelaideoval. com.au) is a piece of living history. In 1884 it witnessed its first Test cricket match between Australia and England (England won), kept score in 1889 during the first Grand Final in a major Australian rules football league, and stood in silent judgment while the Aussie cricket team was peppered with bouncers from English fast bowler Harold Larwood at the 1932-33 Bodyline Ashes tour. Despite the modernisation of the stadium, you can still see the wooden scoreboard standing proudly at the northern end of the oval.
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ARC HITEC TS OF AIR’S EXXOPOLIS INS TALL ATIO N AT W O M ADEL AIDE
DID YOU KNOW?
A FINE DROP > There are great wine regions around Adelaide, namely the Barossa Valley (barossa.com). You can see it by bus, bike, helicopter, hot-air balloon, horse-drawn carriage or even a Cop Shop-era police car.
SHIP TO SHORE W IL DL IFE
Natural beauty > About two hours south of Adelaide, the 140,500-square kilometre Coorong (thecoorong. com) is one of Australia’s most important wetlands. Home to the Ngarrindjeri people for thousands of years, as well as all manner of birdlife including pelicans, waders and waterfowl, this long stretch of protected lagoons is the setting for the beloved Colin Thiele novel and Australian film Storm Boy, now tugging on a new generation’s heartstrings.
> Port Willunga beach, south of Adelaide, harbours a few secrets. There’s the 1888 wreck of the Star of Greece – now a dive spot just 200 metres off shore – as well as caves carved by fisherman to store boats.
BOOT CAMP > The famous R.M. Williams (rmwilliams.com.au) onepiece-of-leather boots were first made here in 1932 by the man himself, Reginald Murray Williams. Today the boots are exported to 15 countries across the globe.
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—With its towering peaks, cascading waterfalls and brazen wildlife, New Zealand’s Milford Sound is a force of nature. Tatyana Leonov takes her family to this place of beautiful extremes and discovers exactly why it’s called the “eighth wonder of the world”—
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L O C AL T IP Driving to Milford Sound? Research the road conditions before you go as they do change often. Plan for the drive to take longer than you think and take your time as it’s a winding road.
e almost miss them, distracted by the roar of a nearby waterfall – two large fur seals reclining on a flat rock bordered by looming cliffs, like old men watching the telly in a very grand living room. Seconds later, the cruise boat PA system squawks to alert any would-be wildlife photographers where to point their cameras. My husband snaps a few shots before we are swallowed up in the sea of animal paparazzi. I knew we’d come across staggeringly beautiful views when cruising Milford Sound – one of New Zealand’s most spectacular attractions – but these intimate encounters with the wildlife are equally heart-stopping. It may be one of the South Island’s most vast natural wonders but there is only one road into Milford Sound from the picturesque lakefront town of Te Anau – the main base for those wanting to visit this popular southland sight. Although you can choose from numerous modes of transport (tour buses, minivan tours, campervans) for the two- to three-hour trip, my husband and I opt to self-drive The Milford Road – also known as State Highway 94. We have our one-year-old daughter with us and,
being new to this parenting game, figure the ability to stop along the way may come in handy. And it does. We’re not even 30 minutes into the snaking drive when we need to pull over. It has nothing to do with an explosion coming from the gurgling bundle playing with her feet behind us and everything to do with the views. Soaring snow-capped mountains puncture puffy clouds and cast elongated shadows over grassy plains that stretch the breadth of the valley below. We need photographic proof. It’s so beautiful, it’s almost unbelievable. Located on the south-west coast of the island in the Fiordland National Park, Milford Sound is actually a fjord. For those who didn’t pay attention in Year 9 geography, a sound is wider than a fjord and is formed when the sea floods a river valley, whereas a fjord is formed by glacial erosion and movement. Regardless, this famous fjord disguised as a sound brings in the masses, with tourist numbers predicted to top one million this year. Most visitors come for a daytrip and spend a couple of hours on a cruise boat before heading back to Te Anau or a little further afield to Queenstown (just under a four-hour drive away). On the day of our adventure, I pack for every baby emergency I can think of and we end up leaving Te Anau by mid-morning, mindful that
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MILF O RD S O U N D
“WE KEEP STOPPIN G W HENE VER WE CA N S O T HE T HREE OF US CA N S OAK UP T HIS WEIRD A N D W O N DERFUL
Casey Horner, Stephina Smith
the high mountain pass is still closed and only due to reopen before lunchtime. Torrential showers and gusty winds resulted in its closure the previous day, so it’s safe to assume we’ll be sharing the road with a few tourists eager to cast their eyes on what is often referred to as the eighth wonder of the world. There’s no use complaining about the wild weather because the thrashing rain and mighty wind makes Milford Sound what it is. If the wind was an introvert, the mountain peaks wouldn’t be so dramatic and if the rains didn’t fall, the grass wouldn’t be so lush and green. Milford Sound is the wettest place in New Zealand, with an average of 182 rainy days per year, but this only elevates the experience. When it rains, the gushing waterfalls turn into falling blankets of white water and new, more delicate falls emerge, cascading down the towering limestone cliffs like coiled veins. An hour on the road and we’ve seen double rainbows appear, disappear and reappear and driven through showers to emerge into blowtorch sunshine. Our daughter – who often sleeps in the car – is wide-awake and gazing out the window. We keep stopping whenever we can so the three of us can soak up this wonderful beauty over and over again. The scenery en route is so striking that even older kids will abandon the “are we there yet?” routine, mesmerised by what’s outside. Being on the water, surrounded by water, is a truly immersive experience (pun intended) and that’s why cruising the fjord is the most popular activity to do here, with various tour companies departing throughout the day. Our ship, Mariner (realjourneys.co.nz), is huge and distinguished, and today there are hundreds of people boarding for the early afternoon scenic cruise. Unless travelling as part of a tour, seats are on a first-come, first-served basis, but since we’ve requested a high chair, we are assigned window seats and a table. It’s worth queuing up to get on board early to snag a window seat, as the views are what this cruise is all about.
O N T HE ROAD TO Q UEENSTOWN
BE AU T Y OVER A N D OVER AGA IN.”
We spend the next two or so hours staring out the window, munching on our lunch (you can pre-order lunch on some of the cruises and our ticket includes a buffet-style selection of hot dishes) and taking plenty of photos. My eyes are constantly darting in different directions, trying to take it all in. To my right, a misty cloud formation cloaks a towering cliff. To my left , a ray of sunshine perforates a collection of dark grey clouds and waterfalls spout on all sides. An hour into the cruise, my husband braves the outdoors and comes back soaked from rain and a nearby waterfall. The ship doesn’t just putter through the middle of the waterway. Instead, it glides to and from the shoreline so that passengers can get a closer look at the waterfalls and wildlife. Our daughter adores birds and dogs and it’s clear the lazy seals get that same tick of approval. She points at them excitedly and squeals so loudly that fellow passengers can’t help but laugh along with her. I soak up the views of the seals, the rain and my
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F A M I LY F U N
TE ANAU GLOW-WORM CAVES
> Descend Milford Sound For big kids, explore the unique underwater world with a scuba diving tour of Milford Sound. Home to beautiful coral displays and stunning marine life, a dive trip here is like no other. descend.co.nz
daughter enjoying seeing these creatures, straight from her bedtime storybooks, for the first time in her life. As we turn to cruise back, the sun comes out as though a switch has been flicked, causing the water to glisten like black diamonds. The disembodied voice on the PA system explains that the water always appears dark because it’s stained by tannin, which flows from the forest into Milford Sound when it rains. The result is a bit like a two-layer cake – the top layer is the dark tannin-stained fresh water, while the bottom layer is ocean water. I don’t dive but fellow cruisers tell me it’s a great spot to view deep-sea life in shallow waters, thanks to the way the fresh water blocks out the sunlight. On the return drive to Te Anau, a stop at Mirror Lakes is a must. The sun has won the afternoon battle and the wind has died down to a whisper, creating the perfect conditions to admire the mountains reflected in the water. I buckle my daughter into her carrier and we take the short stroll along the wooden boardwalk straight into that mirror view we were hoping for. The forest-clad mountains and bulging white clouds reflect perfectly in the lake, with only an infrequent ripple breaking the surface. It’s our last stop before returning to town, so we linger, enjoying the peace and tranquillity. Our daughter has fallen asleep, missing out on this final view. We don’t wake her but vow to return again when she’s older. Milford Sound is a giant of a place with so much more natural beauty to wonder at.
JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O Q U EE N S T O W N.
S TAY Te Anau Lakeview Kiwi Holiday Park (teanauholidaypark. co.nz) is ideal for families and has cabins and motelstyle accommodation overlooking Te Anau Lake. If you want to stay overnight at Milford Sound and spend more time exploring, Milford Sound Lodge (milfordlodge.com) is a great base. The lodge has several accommodation options, including campervan sites and riverside chalets.
JE T S TA R.C O M
> Milford Sound Underwater Observatory Kids can witness the beauty below the surface without the need for a scuba tank. Unlike an aquarium, the fish you’ll see from this floating underwater viewing room are free to come and go. southerndiscoveries.co.nz > Rosco’s Milford Kayaks Climb into a kayak to take in the view in an active way. Rosco’s offer a variety of guided trips perfect for first-time paddlers through to seasoned kayakers. roscosmilfordkayaks.com > Milford Helicopters Experience the natural marvel from a different perspective with an awe-inspiring flight. milfordhelicopters.com > Te Anau Glow-worm Caves Cruise into limestone caves and through the glow-worm cavern, where hundreds of tiny creatures put on a dazzling display above. realjourneys.co.nz
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or visit www.winepeople.com.au/4510001 Terms and conditions: Ofer available while stocks last and only available to Australian residents. Two crystal stemless glasses and two bottles of Patronus Barossa Valley Shiraz per household. Order acceptance and the contract between you and us will only be formed on the dispatch to you of the product(s) ordered. Orders not accepted (nor will wine be delivered to) persons under the age of 18 years. We do not deliver to parcel lockers, and unfortunately due to rising delivery costs and current liquor laws are unable to deliver to the Northern Territory. If a wine becomes unavailable, a similar wine of equal or greater value will be supplied. Stemless glasses stock is limited and if unavailable will be substituted with a bottle of wine. If you are unhappy with the substitute we’ll refund you. One $100 gift card per household. Gift card not transferable for cash and cannot be used in conjunction with any other ofers. $100 gift card saving is of normal retail prices of the reds case only as provided by the wineries. For full T&Cs and privacy policy go to winepeople.com.au/ terms or call us on 1300 762 832. (Licence No. 514 00724, LIQP770016550) 200 Chalk Hill Rd, McLaren Vale SA 517
Shanghai 4 8 H O U RS IN
—Traditional charms and modern flavour unite in this eclectic Chinese city. Janet Gyenes ticks off all the essentials, then hits pause to drink in a more personal experience—
M50 CREATIVE DISTRICT
JING’AN TEMPLE
LO CALLY MADE FEIYUE SNEAKERS
SH OPPING IN TIANZIFANG
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THE ULTIMATE HIT LIST...
Slurp on dumplings
FUCH U N XIAOLO NG
Looking for a ticket to pork paradise? You’ll find it at Fuchun Xiaolong on Yuyuan Road, sitting elbow-to-elbow with locals slurping on Shanghai’s xiao long bao (traditional soup dumplings). Newbies, take note: these pleated packages don’t swim in soup – the soup’s hidden inside each delectable dumpling – and there’s a method to ordering and eating. Look for a paper menu (it has English), order and pay at the counter. Stake out a table and flag down a waitress by waving your receipt. Eat like a local, too – place one of your dumplings onto a spoon, nibble it open and suck out the soup. Then, dip it in vinegar and enjoy.
Shop and pop Hipster shopping becomes a history lesson in Taikang Road’s Tianzifang, where a warren of boutiques have taken up residence inside traditional shikumen (stone-gate) houses. Your goal? Get lost strolling the alleyways. You’ll find treasures such as singing bowls at Joma’s Collection and Feiyue sneakers (a cult favourite here – the local brand harks back to the 1920s) at Culture Matters. If you need to fuel up, snack on skewered cuttlefish and hawthorns or duck into Kommune café’s courtyard for a Tsingtao beer.
Interact with art Contemporary art and industry collide at the M50 creative district on Shanghai’s Moganshan Road. Wander among the remnants of the Chunming Slub Mill, where rusty metal staircases and graffitied walls are the backdrop for the galleries and artists’ studios that inhabit the old warehouses. Must-see spots? Island6 (island6.org), a collective of self-described “tech geeks” who create LED art, ShanghArt Gallery (shanghartgallery.com), one of the country’s first contemporary art galleries, and Chronus Art Center (chronusartcenter.org), a non-profit dedicated to media art.
Tour a temple Jing’an Temple on West Nanjing Road has a bizarre backstory – it’s the city’s newest Buddhist temple and one of the oldest. Built on the banks of Suzhou Creek some time in the Three Empires Period (220AD-280AD), it was moved to its current site in 1216. During the Cultural Revolution in the 1950s, the temple was converted to a plastics factory before it burned down. In 1983, it was reconstructed as a temple, where today you can listen to monks chant and watch Buddhists light incense sticks and pray. Check out the main hall to see a 15,000-kilogram sterling silver Buddha, then visit the Jade Buddha Hall, where it’s namesake – China’s largest sitting jade Buddha – holds court at 3.65-metres tall.
And now for something different...
IMAGES_ CHRIS CRERAR
EDITIO N H OTEL
Go high Give in to temptation and cross the Huangpu River to Pudong and ride an elevator up one of the district’s high-altitude skyscrapers. You can (and should) survey Shanghai from the spaceship-like Oriental Pearl Radio and TV Tower, the 128-storey Shanghai Tower (the world’s secondtallest building) or the monster-sized “bottle opener” that is the Shanghai World Financial Center. But that’s just half the picture. Gaze at both the city’s ultra-modern future and colonial past from the 29th-floor rooftop bar in the new Shanghai Edition hotel (editionhotels.com/shanghai). Sip an Old Fashioned while overlooking the Art Deco Fairmont Peace Hotel with a forest of steel buildings beyond.
THERE IS NOWHERE IN THE WORLD WHERE YOU CAN EXPERIENCE SO MUCH, SO CLOSE AND SO EASILY.
Your South Island experience begins with just an hour’s drive from Christchurch New Zealand, whether you’re driving North, South, East or West, Mid Canterbury is the perfect stop. Stay as long as you can to explore Mid Canterbury to the fullest. With stunning snow capped mountains as its backdrop and bordered by impressive braided rivers and crystal clear lakes, the scenery is so magnificent it will take your breath away. Mid Canterbury is one of the great secrets of New Zealand, with an inspiring range of both energetic and relaxing activities. Join us for a journey of exploration and exhilaration.
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THE DEEP DIVE...
Baijiu tasting I’m sitting on a plastic stool shivering inside a tent after a day of horseriding in Inner Mongolia. Baijiu, China’s most consumed spirit, seems to be what’s keeping everyone else from quaking in the cold. So I accept a glass (or two) and join in the shouts of ganbei! Bottoms up.
HEALER L IQ U OR B OT TLES BEHIND T HE BAR
The clear liquor, reminiscent of tequila, goes down like a river of fire and leaves a pool of warmth in my belly. But when I walk outside to stare at the billion stars blinking above, dizziness and disorientation hit me like twin hammers. That was some rough stuff. A few weeks later, I’m back in Shanghai with six tiny cups of baijiu arranged before me. I’m at Healer, an elegant cocktail bar in the leafy former French Concession – an area popular with expats and tourists, where the streets hum with scooters and selfie-takers posing in front of Art Deco buildings and a tunnel of London plane trees. Tonight, Healer’s owner, Phoebe Han, is hosting a masterclass on baijiu. The spirit often gets a bad rap thanks to its high alcohol content, typically ranging from 40 to 60 per cent. But it’s also a misunderstood spirit, one that’s complex and intricately woven into centuries of Chinese culture. Phoebe is on a mission to bring baijiu’s true story to the city’s sophisticated cocktail scene. “I want to change peoples’ ideas of baijiu,” she says. “And I’m glad I can share some Chinese culture here.” When Phoebe opened Healer two years ago, she put a few Chinese-style cocktails on the menu. “People loved them,” she says, so she expanded her offerings using Chinese osmanthus wine, baijiu sourced from around the country, plus varieties infused in-house. Gleaming glass bottles of baijiu lining the back bar are filled with red dates, bamboo leaves, green plums and even sea stars “for virility”, she says. It’s a modern apothecary meets drinking den. Phoebe has travelled extensively in China to learn about baijiu, which makes up 99 per cent of China’s spirits market. The liquor varies wildly from region to region, both in ingredients and the methods in which it is made.
HEALER’S BAIJIU MASTERCL ASS
SHANGHAI
“I T’S A REFRESHIN G MIX OF OL D A N D NE W T H AT EMB O DIES T HE BEST OF T HE C O U N TRY’S M O ST P OP UL AR DRINK.”
The first type we taste, called kumiss, comes from Inner Mongolia, Genghis Khan’s stomping ground. According to folklore, it was the Mongol leader’s drink of choice. Traditionally, baijiu is distilled from wheat but there aren’t any hard and fast rules for making it, unlike spirits such as bourbon or gin. This one is fermented from horse’s milk. The clear liquid smells faintly like blue cheese and tastes a little like it, too. At only six per cent alcohol, it goes down smoothly. Another one we try is chocolate-brown and smells like dates. It’s crafted from purple rice, which is made into wine, then fermented in clay with baijiu added, boosting the alcohol level to 17 per cent. It’s sweeter and ideal for sipping. We sample a couple of others, including Chu Yeh Ching Chiew, a golden-green baijiu from Shanxi province. At 45 per cent alcohol, it’s almost a Chinese-style gin (minus the juniper) made with a dozen herbs and spices, leaving a lingering hint of cloves in my mouth. To me, the most compelling of all the baijiu we try is the one “farmed” in Fujian province. The baijiu is injected into a living bamboo plant, where it ages for 18 months. As the bamboo grows, it infuses the spirit with water and flavour. This modern take on tradition is the star ingredient in Healer’s Bamboo Forest cocktail, along with maraschino, Cocchi Americano, cucumber and mint. It’s a refreshing mix of old and new that embodies the best of the country’s most popular drink. Six tiny cups of baijiu have let me travel around China in an evening. It’s certainly a different – and fascinating – way to see a country.
W H AT M A S T ER CL A S S AT H E ALER
T HE FIERY CHINESE SPIRI T
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W H ERE 30 T I A NPIN G R OA D (A FI V E-MIN U T E W AL K FR O M T H E JI AO T O N G U NI V ER SI T Y ME T R O S TAT IO N) HIG HL IG H T S T H E M A N DA R IN C O CK TA IL. P H O EBE W O N T H E C A MPA R I RED H A N D C O MPE T I T IO N IN C HIN A F O R H ER TAK E O N C A MPA R I MI XED W I T H B A IJIU
This Easter school holidays enjoy the best of the region around this epic NRL clash! 1. Boutique brewing If you’re craving a cold ale, lager, IPA or stout, the Sunshine Coast has an ever-increasing number of award-winning beerpreneurs serving up craft brews. From Brouhaha Brewery in Maleny to Moffat Beach Brewing Co in Caloundra, there is sure to be a beer to quench your thirst.
4. Discover the Hinterland Drive through the scenic Sunshine Coast Hinterland and discover that Insta-worthy shot of the iconic Glasshouse Mountains. Walk through lush green valleys with natural waterfalls. Or find that perfect gift in one of the quaint hinterland villages.
2. Close encounters with wildlife Get up close to a crocodile, cuddle a koala, pat a dingo, walk with a tiger or be a zookeeper for a day at Australia Zoo. Swim with rescued seals or dive with sharks in their beachside aquarium home at SEALIFE Sunshine Coast.
5. A foodie adventure Taste fresh local produce from roadside stalls, feast on our famous Mooloolaba prawns and taste award-winning yoghurts and cheeses in the hinterland dairies. Delight your tastebuds at the Original Eumundi Markets where performers, artisans and food producers from all over the region will showcase their talents.
3. Aquatic fun Embrace an endless summer with a day on the beach where the average sea temps for April are a perfect 24˚-26˚C. Explore the turquoise waters of Cotton Tree with a leisurely SUP, and finish the day with a Maroochy River sunset cruise.
#visitsunshinecoast visitsunshinecoast.com
—A chance encounter in a Brisbane café reminds Akanksha Singh why she loves the balmy city. Here, she recalls that unexpected moment, retracing her journey of discovery through this surprisingly inspiring city—
IMAGES_ KARA ROSENLUND
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risbane is at its best in autumn. Though the sunsets always bring with them a little nip that invites warm conversation and wine in equal measure, the days are ambitiously blue-skied and sunny and the air carries the faintest whiff of eucalyptus on its tail. Days like this are best enjoyed outdoors, so I’m waiting for a friend at the urban chic Gallery of Modern Art (GoMA) courtyard café, book in one hand, coffee in the other. I came to Brisbane from Singapore in 2014, as a student on the cusp of realising my ambitions of becoming a writer. During that time, I spent many such days here, soaking in the breeze that swept across the patio, the sounds of clinking cups and the aroma of freshly brewed coffee, while contemplating whether the switch from studying geology to writing was a mistake. About a year ago, just as I was wrapping up the final semester of my studies, I sat at the same table as today, and across from me, a striking woman caught my eye. She must have been in her mid-seventies. She smiled at me and I returned her smile. I remember that initial encounter indelibly because it reminded me how friendly everyone always is in Brissie. Maybe it’s because I wasn’t born here and, therefore, I am able to view the city through slightly rose-tinted glasses, but whenever I think about Brisbane, I think of it as a big city with a small-town vibe. It’s large enough to tuck away little-known museums, art galleries, bookshops and cafés – yet small and contained enough that one never quite feels lost roaming unfamiliar streets alone. Wedged between two beach icons – the Gold Coast to the south and the Sunshine Coast to the north – the Queensland capital sits slightly inland, its buildings clustered on the banks of a snaking, brown Brisbane River. Today, with a population of over two million, it’s Australia’s third-largest city.
TAS T Y DEL IG H TS AT CL AREN CE C ORNER B O OK SH OP
ARC HIVES FINE B O OKS
QAG CAFE AT T HE GALLERY OF M ODERN ART
Not typically one for small talk, perhaps it was Brisbane’s small-town feel that made me surprisingly receptive and sparked our conversation that day. Or maybe it was her opener: “Bit young to be reading Wodehouse, aren’t you, dear?” she said, nodding at my book. I joked that I blamed my parents and she replied with, “How very Freudian of you.” After some meandering through polite chatter about how nice the weather was and how lovely the light shimmying off the river looked on a sunny day, we stepped into a real conversation. Before I knew it, I was at her table, talking about Brisbane bookshops, the summer GoMA exhibit – a gigantic, colourful, fuzzy installation titled Nervescape V that looked like a Dr Seuss creation – and the best cafés Brisbane had to offer. I traded King of Cakes in Taringa (kingofcakes.com.au) and their to-die-for almond croissants for her Bunker Coffee (bunkercoffee.com.au), a literal hole-in-thewall café in Milton. She, a former English teacher, gave me a list of Aussie authors to look into (including Patrick White and David Malouf) that I’ve treasured ever since. Many people will tell you that the only literary scene in Australia is in Melbourne. Ask a Brisbanite, though, and they’ll tell you the really good ideas start in Brisbane and get transplanted to Melbourne – including the prestigious literary journal, Meanjin. The University of Queensland Press, standing firm since its inception in 1948, has burrowed its roots deeper into these parts with poetry, fiction and non-fiction that spans from Australiana to Indigenous culture. Happily, as I’ve discovered through return visits, Brisbane continues to develop into a cultural hub in its own right. As the influx of people into Brisbane from Melbourne and Sydney continues, thanks to ballooning property prices, the city swells to make space for more creative types.
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For one thing, live music in Brisbane is burgeoning – there are talented buskers on street corners singing about heartbreak and new love into crackly mics, as well as quirky gig sites such as repurposed World War II hangar The Triffid (thetriffid.com.au) and prestigious venues like The Tivoli (thetivoli.com.au), which brings world-class acts to Brisbane’s backyard. Then, of course, there's the grand dame of live music venues: the Queensland Performing Arts Centre (qpac.com.au), which has hosted sell-out runs of everything from The Lion King to Prokofiev’s Romeo and Juliet. The Brisbane Writers Festival, too, offers an increasingly impressive program of talks and lectures with each passing year (I still remember being amazed that one of the first stops on Jodi Picoult’s Australian tour was the Brisbane City Hall). This emphasis on literature is what I think makes the city unique.
There are so many inviting bookshops dotted around – Archives Fine Books (archivesfinebooks.com.au), incongruously situated in the heart of the business district, boasts its million-book collection with a plaque that literally reads, “One million books”. And there’s never a short supply of readings on the leafy back verandah of Avid Reader Bookshop (avidreader.com.au) in West End. As you wander further into West End, past graffitied walls, pop-up-shops and hip burger joints, you get what I think is a taste of the real Brisbane. It’s a city that hasn’t become sterile like many others tend to with growth (not yet, anyway) and still retains its laid-back and slightly gritt y character. There are plenty of genuine hidden gems you can stumble upon here. Gems like one of my favourite indie bookstores – Bent Books (bentbooks.com.au), where the cashier is always up for a chat about literature (I have never walked out of that store without making a purchase), and Clarence Corner Book Shop (cornerbookshop.com.au), where the collection is as tempting as the fig and brie toasties and almond milk flat whites in the adjoining café. BEN T B O OKS
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MORE TO DO F O R C U LT U R E LOVERS 1. Philip Bacon Galleries > Explore the heart of Brissie's art scene in this legendary Fortitude Valley gallery. As one of Australia's finest, it is renowned for exhibiting the country's top artists. philipbacongalleries.com.au
SCRU MP TIO US READS
In fact, it was our shared love of libraries and indie bookstores – you know, the sort run by book lovers, where patrons and clerks actually discuss books – that cemented the connection between the schoolteacher and I. As we talked that day, I remember her saying the best thing about the city was the sheer number of libraries it had. As a student, I felt very fortunate to have plush libraries like the State Library of Queensland (slq.qld.gov.au) – with a river view to boot – at my doorstep. We covered a lot in our nearly hour-long conversation. It lulled once and we both took sips of our second long blacks before she said, “So you want to be a writer, then, I take it?” I looked at the cover of my book, then over to the riverside where joggers streamed by and answered with an emphatic yes. It was the first time I’d said it out loud to someone. I wish we’d exchanged names and numbers that day. I would have loved to look her up on a day like today when I’ve returned to Brisbane to meet old friends and pack the last of my boxes. I would have wanted to tell her that since that serendipitous encounter, I went on to attend the Yale Writers’ Workshop and have now actually started writing for a living. And that whenever anyone asks me how I got into writing, I think of Brisbane and her.
2. The Sit Down Comedy Club > Pop into The Paddo Tavern on bustling Given Terrace for a night full of laughs as a host of national and international comedy acts take to the stage. standup.com.au 3. Scrumptious Reads > Tucked away in Red Hill, this culinary lovers' book-nook has a menu to match with "Sweet Saturdays" – think ice creams, jams and jellies – and a cookbook club, too. scrumptiousreads.com.au
RE A D T HIS For book lovers who want to learn more about how novels became a mainstay in the literary world, Steve Moore’s The Novel, An Alternative History 1600-1800 (Bloomsbury) delves into the origins of famous classics as well as little known gems.
JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O B R ISB A N E FR O M A R O U N D A U S T R AL I A.
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> Born Ella Marija Lani YelichO’Connor, superstar singer Lorde is originally from the Auckland suburb of Takapuna.
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> One of the city’s oldest modes of transport, the Star Ferry, has been operating on Hong Kong’s Victoria Harbour since 1888.
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> Burleigh Heads was once called Burly Head after its size and shape. Over the years, its name evolved to what it is today.
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Cameron McLaren
—New Zealand’s largest city is home to a stand-out culinary scene. Local Gwen McClure dines her way across Auckland’s best restaurants and bars – all in the name of research, of course—
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M A D F O R M AT C H A Japan’s famous green tea shop, Tsujiri, is now serving up matcha teas and treats on Lorne street.
XUXU
tsujiri-global.com
> KISS KISS.
cool
The green floral tablecloths and cocktail menus hidden in old-school viewfinder toys give Kiss Kiss a retro feeling, suggesting you might be in for a gimmicky meal – but that’s not the case. The menu items are the same as what you would get at your run-of-the-mill Thai takeaway (think pad thai and pad see ew) but the food here is superb. Just be sure to leave room for dessert – the mango and sticky rice is as close as you’ll get to Bangkok street food in NZ. kisskisseatery.com
> CASSIA. There’s no shortage of terrific Indian food in Auckland but Cassia surpasses the competition. Husband-and-wife team Sid and Chand Sahrawat work together to meld Indian flavours with New Zealand produce. The result is beautifully plated dishes such as snapper with mustard and coconut, served against a backdrop of exposed brick and cement ceilings in a cellar in the middle of the CBD. cassiarestaurant.co.nz
> XUXU. We’re all for tucking into dumplings with a bottle of BYO at your local hole-in-the-wall but there’s something special about enjoying basket after bamboo basket of steamy dumplings while sipping on fancy cocktails. Whether you’re here for dinner or a drink and a bite, pick a spot on the patio where you’ll sit under glowing lanterns, tucked behind a wall of green bamboo. Bonus: Xuxu does great vegan dumplings, too. xuxu.co.nz
asian eateries
KISS KISS
> AZABU. Set inside a characterless building at the southern end of Ponsonby Road, it might be easy to miss Azabu – but make sure you don’t (look for a sign marking its entrance). Inside this Japanese-Peruvian fusion spot, bartenders expertly mix cocktails on one side of the narrow room and wooden tables line the opposite wall. The service here is flawless, as are the dishes, which range from spicy wagyu beef skewers to kingfish ceviche and crab steamed buns. azabuponsonby.co.nz
> SAAN. The minimalist décor belies the friendly vibe at this northern Thai restaurant. It’s best to visit Saan in a group so you have an excuse to order one of everything. Alongside dishes including wide rice noodles tossed with homemade sriracha and chicken thigh, fish wrapped in banana leaf and an extra-spicy papaya salad, they have an excellent cocktail menu. Try By Any Other Name, a cocktail made with coconutinfused rum and pineapple shrub. saan.co.nz
THE WATER BOTTLE PERFECTED For Little People
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> CABLE BAY VINEYARDS. Where better to spend a sunny day than on an island off Auckland? Waiheke Island is a 40-minute ferry ride from the downtown terminal and Cable Bay Vineyards is an easy 15-minute walk further. The vineyard offers a cellar door, dining room and verandah but the best option is to have your wine and cheese platter picnic-style on the lawn, where you get sweeping views of the Hauraki Gulf and Auckland’s skyline. cablebay.nz
BRICK BAY
wine bars + wineries
> BRICK BAY. There’s plenty to tempt you to drive an hour north of the CBD to Brick Bay – and the selection of wines from their own vineyard is just one reason. Lunch at the on-site restaurant, located inside a stunning glasshouse in the middle of the property, will have you digging into fresh, local produce (they keep beehives for honey and press oil from their own olives), while sipping on wines from a tasting paddle. When you’re full, work it off by wandering along the sculpture trail. The loop takes about an hour and leads through some of Auckland’s stunning native bush and past more than 50 sculptures. brickbay.co.nz
> MAN O’ WAR.
CABLE BAY VINEYARDS
HIGHER GROUND Sam Hartnett
Prefer your wine with a city view? Make a booking at The Sugar Club on the 53rd floor of the Sky Tower. skycityauckland.co.nz/restaurants/ the-sugar-club/
The setting on the eastern side of Waiheke Island makes Man O’ War a bit more difficult to get to but its stunning surrounds makes it well worth the trek. Come for a tasting at the cellar door, located just inland from the beach, and leave room in your luggage for a few bottles – their beautifully labelled wines make for perfect souvenirs. manowar.co.nz
> FREIDA MARGOLIS. When you’re in the mood for an arty atmosphere, Freida Margolis is your spot. This intimate wine bar sits on the corner of Grey Lynn’s main road, a 10-minute drive from the CBD, and is the perfect place to park up on a weeknight for some live music and conversation. There’s a small menu with sliders and a cheese board and the wine list is big enough to keep you interested but not to overwhelm – think sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and pinot noir from around New Zealand, alongside imported shiraz bordeaux and champagne. freidamargolis.business.site
> ANNABEL’S. Located at the northern end of Ponsonby Road, Annabel’s bills itself as a neighbourhood wine bar but oozes so much European style, it could have been plucked from a street in Paris, Tuscany or Seville. The cosy hideout is warm and chic, pours a selection of unusual wines and serves up charcuterie plates and cheese boards. Pop in for an afternoon break or stop by on your way to dinner. annabelswinebar.com
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> DEPOT.
> AMANO. In just over two years, Amano has cemented its place in the city’s dining scene. Come for the chic warehouse interior, stay for the melt-in-yourmouth burrata and the pasta made from flour milled on site. Bonus: it opens early from 7am and serves until late, making it perfect for a bite during those in-between hours. amano.nz
> CIBO. This Auckland institution exemplifies what this city does so well: high-end gastronomy without the formal air that so often comes with it. Whether you’re sitting indoors surrounded by patterned walls and chandeliers or dining alfresco on the patio, you can expect an excellent meal. Choose from the degustation, set, express menus or à la carte, and feel free to ask for help with the exhaustive wine list – your hosts will happily oblige. cibo.co.nz
IN THE MARKET Auckland Fish Market recently reopened in Wynyard Quarter with nine dining options. afm.co.nz
Babiche Martens
> THE OYSTER INN. Oysters from Waiheke Island are good but oysters on Waiheke Island are even better. The kitchen here is bright, airy and stays open all day, drawing daytrippers and locals alike. When you’re looking for respite from the sun in the form of a cool glass of local sauvignon blanc, stop on by. You’ll struggle to peel yourself away from the terrace when you’re finished. theoysterinn.co.nz
> COCO’S CANTINA. The vibe at this Karangahape Road Italian bistro is something like your cooler cousin’s dinner party. Staff wear what they want – like torn denim and crop tops – and have perfected the delivery of sharp service and great food in a seriously un-stuffy environment (think gingham table cloths and shelves full of curios). Start with the house-cured fish or chicken liver parfait and follow with spaghetti and meatballs – they’re the best in town, if not the country. cocoscantina.co.nz
AMAN O
local favourites
Chef Al Brown is a Kiwi mainstay and his original Auckland venue, Depot, deserves its regular spot near the top of the country’s best-of lists. With an industrial interior – think wooden tables, exposed ducts and white tiling – the atmosphere is upscale but relaxed and it’s the city at its finest. For dinner, the hapuka sliders are a must, as are the cumin and paprika lamb ribs. If you can’t make it in the evening, swing past for breakfast – they’re open from 7am, toasting bacon and egg sandwiches and frying beignets. eatatdepot.co.nz
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best This hipster café is tucked in the back of St Kevin’s Arcade, a historic building on bustling Karangahape Road in central Auckland. Grab a spot facing the floor-to-ceiling windows at the back for views of Auckland’s Sky Tower, or head to the front for great people-watching. The all-day breakfast menu boasts creative offerings like a chilli-fried egg over flatbread, chorizo, labneh and pickles, and peanut butter donuts served with bacon. bestiecafe.co.nz
cafés
BESTIE CAFE
> AMBLER.
TAK APU NA BEACH CAFE
Don’t let the 1950s diner-style lettering fool you – the food here is anything but the retro, greasy fare you’d expect. The menu changes seasonally and while you’ll find staples such as scrambled eggs or fruit and yoghurt, influences from North Africa, the Mediterranean and the Middle East mean they’re anything but standard. Try the bircher with labneh or scrambled eggs with halloumi and spicy, fruity mustard. odettes.co.nz
Point Chevalier or Point Chev, as it’s known locally, is a beachfront suburb set on Waitemata Harbour, a 10-minute drive west of Auckland’s CBD. Stop by Ambler, a chic, new café on the main road for breakfast bruschetta piled with juicy tomatoes, or come later in the day for seasonal oysters with shallot vinaigrette – they’re some of the best in town. Point Chev is a popular spot for young families, too, and Ambler knows their market – they’ve got a kids menu and a second dining area with space to park your pram and let the little ones run amok. amblerptchev.co.nz
GRAB AND GO If you’re in a hurry, swing past The Raw Kitchen for healthy takeaways, including cacao chia pudding with granola. therawkitchen.co.nz
JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O A U C KL A N D FR O M A R O U N D A U S T R AL I A.
> TAKAPUNA BEACH CAFE. On sunny mornings, Takapuna Beach Cafe hums with locals enjoying breakfast after a morning walk, run or ride. The sun-drenched café sits at the northern end of a long stretch of sand, with sweeping views of the Hauraki Gulf and Rangitoto Island. For a treat, try the malt and honey smoothie – it’s delicious. takapunabeachcafe.co.nz
> BUOY. This glass-walled café sits in the Westhaven Marina under Auckland Harbour Bridge, overlooking row after row of docked boats. Sit down for wholemeal crêpes with spiced apple and walnuts, eggs Benedict with potato hash or a heavenly smoked salmon rosti. Afterwards, grab a takeaway coffee and stroll along the water towards the city. buoycafe.co.nz JE T S TA R.C O M
Anna Kidman, Josh Griggs
> ODETTES EATERY.
O DE T TES EATERY
> BESTIE CAFE.
E S T. 1 9 9 9
www.shopmadeinearth.com M ELB O UR N NEE • LO S ANGE AN GE LES LE S • SA SAN N DI DIEE GO @madeinearthofficial
FL AT WHITE AUS/NZ
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—The humble flat white appears on café menus around the world but what’s this coffee’s story? Rachel Gray finds out just what goes into making Australia’s (and New Zealand’s) signature velvety cup—
> W H AT IS I T? A single or double shot of espresso with carefully textured steamed milk and just enough foam to delicately create an artistic design on top.
> HE ATED HIS T ORY The origin of the flat white is a contested issue across the Tasman. Australia’s Alan Preston and New Zealand’s Fraser McInnes both lay claim to making the inaugural milky cup. We know it first appeared in cafés in the 1980s but who was actually the first? Perhaps we’ll never know.
> M AGIC BE A N S Did you know that coffee beans are really the seeds of a berry? Legend has it coffee was discovered by a goat herder in Ethiopia who noticed his goats had more energy after eating the berries scattered across the hillside.
> FL AVO U R SAVO U R Not all coffee tastes alike. Colombian varieties have hints of stone fruits, while Ethiopian beans provide notes of red cherries. Flat whites are one of the more milky coffees out there but its milk-espresso balance gives it a stronger flavour than its counterparts.
> C OFFEE C ULT U RE Every day, coffee lovers across the world sip over two billion cups of coffee.
In Australia, Victorians consume the most out of all the states, with at least 13 million cups consumed per week, costing $52 million – that’s $2.7 billion a year.
> PRICE M ATC H Think you’re forking out a small fortune for your daily cup? That depends where you are and what you drink. If you’re a long black drinker in NSW, you’re a winner, paying
only $3.94 per cup. Iced coffee drinkers in Canberra, meanwhile, cough up $5.88 for their drink of choice. As for the trusty flat white – the average cost in Australia is a reasonable $4.
> T HINK GREEN On a worldwide-scale, about 500 billion singleuse coffee cups are made every year. Most are lined with a plastic called polyethylene, which isn’t recyclable, and the cups end up in landfill. But you can do your bit for the environment – just buy and use a reusable cup.
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Q+A NAME CRAIG SIMON OCCUPATION BARISTA, CRITERIA COFFEE WHERE MELBOURNE Firstly, what goes into a great flat white? > The tricky part is making a fantastic-tasting espresso shot but texturing the milk is extremely critical, too. This is because the milk makes up about 170 millilitres and the coffee only 30 millilitres. You need to introduce the air and the steam from the steam wand in as fine a bubble as possible. This is so you get a rich, thick texture that feels more like pouring cream than milk. How did the flat white get on the menu? > Australia and New Zealand used to serve coffee with a very stiff, foamy blob of texture on the top and people would ask for it to be removed. But without any head on the cappuccino, it was kind of flat. So I think the flat white was a backlash against poorly textured foam on top of the cappuccino. What’s the difference between lattes, cappuccinos and flat whites? > Italians differentiate their coffees on the cup volume and ratio of milk to coffee. In Australia and New Zealand, cup sizes have become standardised. Here, it’s about the differences in texture – a cappuccino is thicker than a latte and a latte is thicker than a flat white. Where’s the best place to find a decent coffee? > The magic of the Australian café scene is that there are so many people doing an incredible job, so it is easy to find amazing coffee. Finally, tell us honestly – can you reheat coffee in the microwave? > If you like coffee, the short answer is no. Once you microwave coffee, it changes the flavour. **Craig is a three-time winner of the Australian Barista Championships and owns Criteria Coffee (fb.me/criteriacoffee) in Port Melbourne, where he teaches baristas how to roast their own beans.
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H APPY H O U RS
HONG KONG —The neon-signed, skyscraper-filled concrete jungles of Central, Wan Chai and Sheung Wan are crammed with hidden speak-easies, Italian-style aperitivo bars and rooftop drinking dens that burst with life every night of the week. The trick is to hit the right one for the time of your life—
WORDS_ MELISSA T WIGG
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> MRS POUND. Sheung Wan is known for its sophisticated drinking dens and you’ll find a special one on Pound Lane. The lane is lovely – all pale pink walls and vintage clothes boutiques – and on the corner sits Mrs Pound, a bar selling cocktails for $10 from 5-8pm, Monday to Friday. Be warned, Mrs Pound can be easy to miss – its authentic looking stamp shop front blends in seamlessly with nearby boutiques and the entrance is only revealed after a secret switch is activated. We say, James Bond surroundings at Mr Bean prices. mrspound.com
Justin Lim
> HONI HONI TIKI COCKTAIL LOUNGE. Too distracted by jade markets, dim sum bars and picturesque trams to make it out to the South China Sea? Fear not, as this cocktail spot (often described as the best bar in Hong Kong) has enough beachiness to see you through the trip. From Monday to Friday, 4-7pm, beers are $6 and wine and prosecco start at $10. Sip your delightfully affordable drink in the bamboo courtyard under the jungle-like canopy of potted plants. Feeling sweaty? Happily, and a bit bizarrely, there’s a built-in shower hose to cool off on Hong Kong’s hot summer nights. honihonibar.com
> CÉ LA VI. Sometimes Hong Kong’s nightlife takes things up a level. In a city that is infinitely more beautiful from above, Cé La Vi’s top floor setting and vertigo-inducing balcony should come with devastating prices attached – but for couples and groups in even numbers, help is at hand. From 3-9pm every day, selected beers, wines, spirits and cocktails are two-for-one for the entire hangover-inducing six hours, taking prices down to a very manageable $7 each. hk.celavi.com H O NI H O NI TIKI C O CK TAIL LO U NGE
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BLUE BAR
> LILY & BLOOM.
> BLUE BAR AT THE FOUR SEASONS HOTEL HONG KONG. Bear with us, because this is happy hour with a twist. Eating and drinking at the harbour-front Four Seasons Hotel usually requires a wad of cash. But at the Blue Bar, one (yes, rather expensive) drink will also buy you a feast. From 5-6pm, order any drink and you'll get plates of Peking duck wraps, creamy burratina and Alaskan king crab salad with piles of crusty bread. Makes that $26 glass of wine suddenly seem like good value, right? fourseasons.com/hongkong
Lan Kwai Fong is Hong Kong’s legendary nightlife zone that lures in unsuspecting visitors and only spits them out at dawn. For a grown-up version of the spectacle, try Lily & Bloom, a glossy bar where beers and wines are $7 and classic cocktails are $14 from 5-8pm on weekdays and 6-8pm on Saturdays. Don’t miss the cigar room, which comes with an old-fashioned service-hatch delivery. lily-bloom.com
> POSTO PUBBLICO. This is the place where two of our great loves collide: happy hour drinks and delicious charcuterie. Head to this Elgin Street haunt in the heart of Soho where, for $33, you get free-flowing drinks and all-you-can-eat antipasti from 5-7pm on weekdays. Find a seat on the terrace and watch the crowds flock to Lan Kwai Fong. postopubblico.com
Callaghan Walsh
Can we still call it a “happy hour” if it lasts for 11 hours a day? Semantics aside, Pinot Duck’s drinks offering is straightforwardly generous, running from 11.30am to 10.30pm all day, every day. This means no more rushing back to the city by 5pm, or starting a date when the sun is still dangerously high in the sky. Instead, this Wan Chai bar and restaurant serves two-for-one beers, cocktails and glasses of wine until just before bedtime. If you’re feeling peckish, their duck-focused menu is ideal to stave off any hunger. pinotduck.com
P OSTO PUBBL IC O
> PINOT DUCK.
T HE C U T
This isn’t anything like eating canned beans. This is fancy fare served in a quirky way. Head to Continental Deli, Bar and Bistro in Sydney’s Newtown (they recently opened in the CBD, too) and tuck into tinned razor clams while you sip on a Mar-tinny poured straight from the tin. Finish with a spoonful of Neapoli-tin gelato and grab a souvenir T-shirt (in a can, of course). continentaldelicatessen. com.au
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FOR LUNCH? —Culinary cred is not just about the food you eat, it’s now about how you eat it. Fancy a cocktail from a tin or sandwich on a spade? These are the fun new ways to serve—
Perfect coffee is both an art and a science and The Lab in Royston Park, Adelaide, has put that theory into practice. Housed beneath a medical training centre, the aptly named café treats caffeine cravings with deliciously frothy coffee served in theme-appropriate beakers. While the lab-grade borosilicate glass vessels may seem strange, the clean, white décor and decorative medical equipment helps create a formula that works. fb.me/thelabat313
PL ATING UP Imagine eating dinner in dad’s shed – that’s kind of what it’s like at The Potting Shed in Sydney. Here, twinkling fairy lights and pot plants hang overhead as your burger and chips arrive on the head of a shovel. But don’t worry, these garden tools haven’t even turned their first sod and the only thing you’ll be digging into is your delicious meal. thegrounds.com.au
Hollie Adams, Lee Lam
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WORDS_ AMY MILLS
—Everyone’s favourite beach destination has had a bit of a makeover in recent years, swapping over-the-top glitter and glam for an edgy yet laidback vibe. Local creative Nick Atkins shows us how to explore the new GC—
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NICK SURFING AT MIAMI BEACH
nce better known for its theme parks and Surfers Paradise glitter strip than for its arts and food scene, the Gold Coast is changing. It’s thanks, in part, to a slew of local creatives like Nick Atkins, a video director and owner of co-working space/photo studio, Hotel Miami (hotelmiami.com.au). Nick lives in the hip beachside suburb of – where else, Miami – around 12 kilometres south of Surfers, with his wife Jessie and six-month-old son Abe. Also a recreational surfer (happily, that is one thing that hasn’t changed on the Gold Coast), here he shows us around his ‘hood.
O
What does your usual day look like? > I wake up at 5.30am, have a coffee and do a nappy change for Abe before we both hit the beach for a surf check. Later, I walk to Hotel Miami and open up the space for the day’s goings on. I spend a big chunk of the day managing our content deliveries and shooting in the studio for a variety of clients.
Joel Scott
What do you love most about living on the Gold Coast? > In the last few years, the GC has transformed into a whole new creative and entrepreneurial beast. What I love most is the opportunity – and we have that in abundance. There is a significant thirst for culture here, which is now being quenched with art shows, live music and a huge foodie scene. Of course, it is also a naturally stunning place with epic weather. I am absolutely spoilt to call this place home. Miami is one of the city’s hippest postcodes. What are the local gems? > Granddad Jack’s (granddadjacks. com), a new gin and whisky distillery is a game changer for the area, along with vegan foodie marketplace, The LC (fb.me/thelovechild). Black Hops Brewery (blackhops.com.au), insanely popular café Burleigh Social (fb.me/ burleighsocial) and Greenhouse Canteen (greenhousecanteen.com) are all great too – this place is firing.
What is your favourite spot for a Friday night drink? > You’ll almost certainly find me at The Cambus Wallace (thecambus wallace.com.au), which has become a bit of an institution here. When it opened six years ago, it was one of the first big city-style bars and everyone still seems to love it. How old were you when you caught your first wave? > I started surfing with my older brothers when I was five. I wanted to do whatever they did; it was the best motivation ever. These days, my favourite spots for a wave are Burleigh Heads and Broadbeach. How did you get into filmmaking? > My friends and I started filming each other surf when we were kids, around 13 years old, so we could make little surf movies. I worked in media here before heading to Los Angeles for seven years. Hotel Miami is basically a mix of everything I loved about the creative scene in LA. Describe your perfect Sunday. > It would be an early morning walk to the beach to check out the waves and a minimum of three coffees. I’d go for a surf, then head to Hotel Miami to paint the studio, ready for another big week of shooting. From there, Jessie, Abe and I would usually go to the Burleigh Headland for pizza and to see out the weekend. Magic!
PIC T U RE PERFEC T Nick shares his tips for shooting the perfect holiday video.
1.
L IG H T IS K E Y Wake up early for the sunrise shot and stay a little longer to get the sunset; it makes all the difference.
2. M O RE IS M O RE Make sure you get multiple angles of the same thing so that when you edit, you can tell interesting stories visually. 3. S O U N D I T O U T The music tracks you use and the sounds you record are just as important as the picture you shoot. An interesting soundscape can really take your video to the next level.
Be ready for the unknown. From stunning stills to 4K movie footage, the feature packed, super compact and easy to use EOS M50 mirrorless camera is perfect to capture every unexpected detail of your next trip away.
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CHASING THE —Bold colours and bright lights illuminate the landscape at Parrtjima: A Festival in Light, where Sarah Geelan experiences ancient Indigenous culture like never before—
It’s 7.55pm on a warm Saturday night and 20 people are milling around in front of a stage containing one keyboard and two microphones. As the sun melts behind the MacDonnell Ranges – the sky changing from deep orange to dark blue – hidden projectors cast colourful lights across the landscape and you can’t help but appreciate that you’re on sacred land. The clock hits 7.59pm and suddenly a wave of people rush in and fill every space, standing on chairs and makeshift stools to get a better view. The crowd is a mix of tourists, locals and artists who’ve made the journey to Alice Springs Desert Park for a concert by Indigenous electro band, Electric Fields. The upbeat tempo of the music combined with the duo’s haunting vocals is enough to give anyone goosebumps. It’s the second night of Parrtjima: A Festival in Light, an annual event that brings together Indigenous artists and provides a space to share their rich culture with the rest of the world.
LIGHT Instead of a gallery, though, the artists use the land to tell their stories through art, dance, music, storytelling and installations. Renowned Indigenous creative director and producer Rhoda Roberts curates the program for the free public event, working closely with local Aboriginal artists, reference groups and the team behind events such as Vivid Sydney. “It’s essentially an open-air gallery of light installations featuring diverse works and styles,” Rhoda says. “It’s a truly magical experience.” A growing number of travellers are seeking holidays that give them the “local treatment”, according to online booking company TrekkSoft. And as more people choose cultural experiences as their main reason for travel, this annual festival becomes the perfect destination for those wanting to soak up the Aboriginal culture. Parrtjima (pronounced par-chee-ma) is incredibly sensory – from the feel of the silky red sand and the sight of the illuminated landscape, to the sound of children playing in the festival hub space. Everything is carefully designed to preserve the sacred nature of Indigenous culture, history and Dreamtime stories – right down to which parts of the MacDonnell Ranges are bathed in light. While the event is a great platform for the local artists and designed to make their stories accessible to everyone, it’s the visitors, whose
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3 O T H E R C U LT U R E F E S T I VA L S TO CHECK OUT > Dark Mofo, Australia. Run by the Museum of Old and New Art in Hobart, Tasmania, Dark Mofo is the younger (and wilder) sister of the MONA Foma festival. It’s a showcase of contemporary art in all forms, from music to dance, theatre and visual arts. The 2019 program runs from June 14-23. darkmofo.net.au
PARRTJIMA: A FESTIVAL IN LIGHT IS THE RESULT OF A COLLABORATION BETWEEN DIFFERENT INDIGENOUS COMMUNITIES OF CENTRAL AUSTRALIA. THE 2019 EDITION OF THE FREE FESTIVAL WILL RUN FROM APRIL 5-14 WITH THE THEME OF LANGUAGE EXPRESSIONS. PARRTJIMAAUSTRALIA.COM.AU
numbers totalled more than 20,000 in 2018, who gain the most. They can talk to the artists and local elders, who are keen to share the Arrernte culture, and interact with installations such as Grounded Space – a patch of red earth in the heart of the festival hub that’s ideal for quiet contemplation among the light installations. There’s even a jumping castle for the kids, decorated with Dreaming figures, to allow the youngsters to immerse themselves in Indigenous culture as they play. The 2019 edition of the festival, which kicks off on April 5, focuses on preserving native languages and the importance of Australian Indigenous languages as the ultimate storytelling tool, with the chance to hear stories 60,000 years in the making. Now in its fourth iteration, this year’s event will deliver one of the most expansive programs yet. “It seeks to shine a light on the beauty and complexities of Central Australia’s vast network of Indigenous languages,” Rhoda says. “In line with the UN International Year of Indigenous Languages, there is no better time to reflect on, understand more about and truly celebrate the languages that make our country unique.” To be able to stand in the presence of such ancient stories and history, surrounded by the vast landscape of the Northern Territory, will truly change your perception of Australia.
> Kyoto Gion Matsuri, Japan. This religious ceremony turned street festival celebrates Japanese history and culture with floats – including that of the chosen “Holy” child – and parades, plus lots of local food and crafts. It will be held in Kyoto, July 1-31. japan.travel/en > Perfume (Huong) Pagoda festival, Vietnam. Taking place from the first to the third month of the Lunar calendar (January to March 2020), this huge Buddhist festival of worship takes place in the Huong Tich mountain ranges, 70 kilometres south of Hanoi city. Here you can walk amongst the monks and offer your own gift to Buddha for luck. vietnamtourism.org.vn
Tourism NT/James Horan
< THE DETAILS >
Club Jetstar Last year, Club Jetstar members bought 700,000+ exclusive fares, saving more than $22 million. As a member you’ll get early access to our biggest sales, exclusive member only fares,* 20% off bags and seat selection.^ Plus much more...
Isn’t it time you joined them?
Club Jetstar has an annual fee of AUD/NZD $49. The fee is non-refundable. *Member-only fares are not available on all flights and days. Limited availability over public holiday weekends and school holidays. ^Discounts on fares, bags and seat selection only available on new bookings made at Jetstar.com. Jetstar Airways Pty Ltd – ABN: 33 069 720 243
T HE C U T
@T HEB OYFRIENDSHIRT / @K AIRIDLEY
FREMANTLE PERTH
S T REE T S T YLE
@INSPIRING WI T
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COOL + CASUAL —An irresistible mix of laid-back streetwear, high-street pieces and a dash of quirkiness, shopping in the Western Australia port city will cause some serious style envy—
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THE ESSENTIALS.
> BILLIE AND ROSE. Dresses rule here and will take you from beach to Sunday brunch with friends. Or opt for colourful camis and cool denim topped off with the most perfect pair of gold hoop earrings from their carefully curated selection of jewellery. Fun, fresh and fabulous – it’s so Freo. billieandrose.com.au
FANCY PANTS Switch out denim for twill for an instantly sleek look. (‘Nicoletta’ twill pant, $149.99, sportscraft.com.au)
> TERRACE MEN.
< THE LOOK > CASUAL CAN STILL BE CHIC IF YOU KNOW HOW @ JAYMES.LU NN
TO COORDINATE YOUR LOOK AND ACCESSORISE WITH STATEMENT PIECES – THERE’S PLENTY OF STYLE INSPO ON THE STREETS OF FREO.
> THE ARCHIVE. This clothing store is not what it seems. Half homewares, half fashion, and with a hidden café in the courtyard out the back, you can shop, sip and grab that perfect present for a friend, all in one go. With a host of cool Aussie designers – Viktoria and Woods, Spell and the Gypsy Collective and C&M, to name a few – your cool, casual wardrobe will be sorted in no time. thearchive.com.au
This established store – it opened its doors in 1981 – will have you looking luxe in classic but well-tailored lines from imported brands such as Scotch and Soda, Reporter or Absolut Joy. The owners, Joe Altieri and Nic Capozzi, know their threads and have mastered the art of mixing corporate and casual. terracemen.com
TEE TIME Make a statement day or night – just add a hint of attitude. (Graphic T-shirt, $60, g-star.com)
> CREATO O MANO. This is where you go for quality, individuality and a touch of Italian flair. Think linen pants and dresses, Italian-made leather handbags, classic and ultra-comfy Birkenstock sandals and unique handmade necklaces from the Maasai women of Tanzania – there is a piece for everyone. creatoamano.com
RED ALERT Embrace simplicity with a splash of colour. (‘Scarlett’ leather clutch, $130, karmme.com.au)
> SAVVY BRANDS. Whether you want to dazzle on a night out or work up your morning sweat in style, this George Street store literally has you covered. Jaggad leggings, cute PE Nation tanks and oversized tees will have you feeling confident at the gym before you change it up in a Bec and Bridge mini-dress or classic black jumpsuit. savvybrands.com.au
HAPPY HOUR Classic and refined design remain forever timeless. (Tony + Will ‘Slim’ watch, $89.95, theiconic.com.au)
www.t h e s ilvercollec tive.com
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Safari season —Start packing: these stylish autumn wardrobe updates will take your next girls’ weekend to new heights— 1. Lulu & Rose ‘Lennox’ slip dress in leopard, $89.95, gluestore.com.au 2. Brie Leon ‘925 Fresh Pearl’ sleepers, $129, brieleon.com 3. MinkPink ‘Magic Touch’ linen top, $69.95, minkpinkworld.com 4. Karmme ‘Sophia Mini’ leather pouch, $80, karmme.com.au 5. Assembly Label military jacket, $180, gluestore.com.au 6. Animal-print mules, $79.95, sportsgirl.com.au 7. ‘Freeway PMP20’ sunglasses, $79.95, localsupply.com 8. MinkPink ‘Magic Touch’ linen pants, $99.95, minkpinkworld.com 9. Brie Leon ‘Circulo’ bag in tan, $149, brieleon.com
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the insider > JETSTAR NEWS, ENTERTAINMENT AND MAPS
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> Keep up to date with Jetstar news and our StarKids charity. Plus, go behind the scenes with our staff.
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> Let us entertain you with a huge selection of movies, TV shows, podcasts, music videos and much more.
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> Heading from the airport to the city centre? Use our guide to find out the best way to get there by bus, train or taxi.
Jetstar news
STAFF Q+A.
P O NKRI T (CEN TRE) AND CL ASSMATES API TCHAYA AND PANADDA LEARN H OW TO PREVEN T VIOLENCE AGAINST CHIL DREN
NAME GEORGE KALOGEROPOULOS POSITION GRADUATE, DEPARTMENT OF ENGINEERING
ART FOR GOOD
StarKids donations are supporting art initiatives that give vulnerable Thai children a voice to speak out against violence. By Margaret Spencer.
> In Thailand’s Tak province, located in the country’s north-west,
Year 11 student Ponkrit says all human beings should be considered equal. “There are good and bad people in our world,” he explains. “But no-one has the right to commit violence against others.” Ponkrit is among many Thai children taking part in World Vision’s “It takes a world to end violence against children” campaign. It is estimated that over one billion children worldwide experience some type of violence every year, ranging from physical, sexual and mental abuse, to exploitation such as child labour, trafficking or neglect. Many children, like Ponkrit, who live in poverty-stricken communities, witness or experience violence as part of everyday life, often in the form of discipline from family members (a recent survey of 55,000 Thai families revealed that 75 per cent use violence as a form of child discipline). With support from StarKids, World Vision is working hard to raise awareness among Thai children, families and the wider community about the long-term and devastating impacts of violence. The campaign is being implemented through a range of activities, including parenting skills workshops and youth clubs where children learn about their rights and express their ideas about the issue through creative means. In November 2018, Ponkrit and other vulnerable children like him from across Thailand created artwork for an exhibition titled “It takes you and me to end violence against children – beyond the boundary”, held at the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre. The children’s illustrations depicted their hopes and dreams for a world without violence. The exhibition also featured an artwork titled Plentiful, produced by four primary school students. It had a simple but powerful message to share: “Without violence, every kid will have the opportunity to grow up properly to become good adults, develop our country and change our world to become plentiful.”
How and when did you start working for Jetstar? > In July 2017, I took on a position as a crewing support officer in Jetstar’s Operation Control Centre. Soon after, I joined the graduate program, where you work six-month rotations with four different departments and undertake anything from administrative tasks to managing your own projects. Have you always wanted to work in aviation? > I’ve had an obsession with planes since I was nine years old and told Mum, “I want to work with planes when I’m older.” A few years later, we flew to Adelaide on a Jetstar flight. When we landed, the cabin crew let me sit in the cockpit and chat to the pilots. I remember thinking how cool it would be to work for Jetstar. Tell us about a typical workday.
> Grads work on various projects
under different business units. In my second week with the engineering department for example, I helped create an Airbus aircraft servicing guide. This involved finding an aircraft that was docked in a hangar, there was one in Brisbane so we were immediately booked on a flight to go there the next Monday. What has been a highlight so far?
> On my first safety rotation, I helped develop a risk module training video. I was excited and nervous as it was my first major project and threw me in the deep end – but I learnt a lot.
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SUMMER LOVIN’
Jetstar was proud to participate in last month’s Midsumma Festival in Melbourne. Over 30 Jetstar team members of different genders, sexualities and cultures took part in the Carnival and Pride March, highlighting our commitment to diversity.
AT MIDSUMMA CARNIVAL, OUR TEAM MEMBERS MADE THEIR OWN UNIFORMS TO EXPRESS THEIR IDENTITY.
THE VOLUNTEERS WERE OF A DIVERSE MAKE-UP IN GENDER, SEXUALITY, CULTURE AND FROM DIFFERENT AREAS OF THE ORGANISATION.
Volunteers spoke to the community about the role our diversity council plays in initiatives like mentoring programs, support networks and gender and cultural diversity events.
This year our theme was #BYou. We encouraged participants to be and show off their best selves and to start conversations around what it means to be yourself.
WE HAD DRAG QUEENS ON THE DAY ENGAGING WITH THE CROWD AND SUPPORTING OUR STANCE ON DIVERSITY.
NEW GLUTEN-FREE CHIPS. Jetstar is excited to add new gluten-free potato chips from The Good Crisp Company to its menu on board. With two flavours available, now everyone can get their chips fix when hunger strikes. The Australian company prides itself on using GMO-free ingredients with no artificial flavours or colours and being certified gluten-free (yes, many other potato chips contain gluten). The new savoury snack is part of a menu update with more brands, flavours and options being introduced this month.
Dive into the latest addictive reads
A classic Agatha Christiestyle murder mystery like you’ve never read before. Don’t miss the clever and irresistible bestseller that has everyone talking.
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A moving novel that unveils the true horrors suffered by women in Japaneseoccupied Singapore during World War Two.
Out now! @BloomsburyPublishingAustralia
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In-flight Entertainment —Take off into a world of entertainment – we’ve rounded up today’s most talked-about movies and TV shows, plenty of kids’ favourites, plus hit music and podcasts to keep you occupied throughout your flight— MORE THAN 50 MOVIES AND 500 TV EPISODES AVAILABLE
ONLY $10 BLOCKBUSTER MOVIES TV COMEDY AND DRAMA KIDS’ FAVOURITES HIT MUSIC PODCASTS
> NEW RELEASE MOVIES.
© 2018 Paramount Pictures
Instant Family
A Simple Favour
Comedy | PG Pete and Ellie go from zero to three kids overnight when they discover the world of adoption.
Comedy, Crime, Drama | M A mummy vlogger uncovers the truth behind her friend’s mysterious disappearance.
© 2018 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.
Bohemian Rhapsody Drama, Biography | M A celebration of British rock band Queen and their lead singer Freddie Mercury. © 2018 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.
Bad Times at the El Royale
The Happytime Murders
Crime | MA15+ Seven strangers, each carrying a dark secret, meet by chance at the run-down El Royale hotel.
Comedy | MA15+ Two detectives, one human and one puppet, must work together to solve several puppet murders.
RATINGS
© 2018 Universal City Studio Productions LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Johnny English Strikes Again Comedy, Action | PG When all its active agents are exposed, MI7 must call its most inept agent into action.
The Sisters Brothers Adventure, Comedy | MA15+ Brothers and assassins Charlie and Eli Sisters hunt down a gold prospector in 1850s Oregon.
G General. PG Parental guidance recommended. M Recommended for mature audiences. MA15+ Not suitable for people under 15. Under 15s must be accompanied by a parent or adult guardian.
PRE-PURCHASE IN-FLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT WHEN YOU BOOK YOUR FLIGHTS AND SAVE!
© 2017 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.
> FAMILY MOVIES.
© 2019 WBEI
Smallfoot Animation | PG A bright, young yeti finds something he thought didn’t exist – a human.
> WINNERS & NOMINEES. Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri Comedy | MA15+ Mildred Hayes goes to war against her local police force. © 2018 Disney
The Nutcracker and the Four Realms Adventure, Fantasy | PG Clara is transported to a mysterious parallel world in search of a special key.
©2018 Disney
Freaky Friday (2018)
The Blind Side
The Shape of Water
Drama, Sport | PG An oversized teenager goes from being homeless to a star athlete.
Drama | MA15+ Elisa and co-worker Zelda discover a secret classified experiment.
Gravity
The Martian
Sci-Fi | M On a routine spacewalk, disaster strikes an engineer on her first shuttle mission.
Sci-Fi | M During a mission to Mars, astronaut Mark Watney is left behind by his crew.
Argo
Avatar
Biography, Thriller | M CIA operative Tony Mendez sets out to rescue American diplomats in 1979 Tehran.
Fantasy | M An ex-marine finds himself going to war and falling in love on an alien planet. © 2019 WBEI
Family | PG What happens when you swap bodies with your mum? Teen Ellie finds out.
The House with a Clock in its Walls
The Curious Case of Benjamin Button
Fantasy | PG An orphan and his magical uncle must find a clock with the power to end the world.
Drama, Fantasy, Romance | M Benjamin Button is born as an 80-year-old man in post-WWI New Orleans and lives his life aging in reverse.
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> ROMCOMS.
© 2009 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.
Bride Wars
You’ve Got Mail
Comedy, Romance | PG Two best friends become rivals when a clerical error schedules their weddings on the same day.
Comedy, Romance | PG Two business rivals, who despise each other in real life, fall in love in an anonymous chat room.
© 2019 WBEI
© 1999 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.
Never Been Kissed
© 2019 WBEI
Crazy, Stupid, Love
Two Weeks Notice
Comedy, Romance | M When Cal’s wife leaves him, a new friend teaches him how to pick up women at bars.
Comedy, Romance | PG Lucy calls it quits and gives her boss her two weeks’ notice. Now she must hire her replacement.
© 1994 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.
Comedy, Romance | PG A 25-year-old reporter must go undercover as a teenager in a high school for a story.
© 2019 WBEI
> FOREIGN FILMS.
> FAVOURITE MOVIES. The Island (2018)
Speed
The Day After Tomorrow
Action | M A fearless Los Angeles cop finds himself trapped on a runaway city bus rigged with explosives.
Action | M A climatologist tries to figure out a way to save humanity from a deadly superstorm.
Mr. & Mrs. Smith
Mrs. Doubtfire
Detective Conan: Zero the Enforcer
Action | M A typical married couple find out they are both assassins and each other’s next target.
Comedy, Drama | PG A man dresses up as a female housekeeper so his ex-wife will hire him to watch his own kids.
Animation Detective Conan investigates an explosion at the opening of a large Tokyo resort and convention centre.
Comedy, Drama | M A man who dreams of winning the lottery gets stranded on an island with an odd group of co-workers.
> TELEVISION.
© 1998-1999 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.
© 2018 FX Productions, LLC. All rights reserved.
Buffy the Vampire Slayer (Season 3)
Puppy Dog Pals (Season 1)
Drama | M Buffy Summers, a teenage girl who yearns to be normal despite being gifted with the strength and skill to hunt vampires, must battle the forces of darkness, tackle young adulthood and learn to embrace her destiny.
Kids | G What do pug puppies and brothers Bingo and Rolly like to do when they’re not on a mission? They play, of course! Join the fun-loving duo and their backyard pals as they play games and set off on their next adventure.
© 2018 FX Productions, LLC. All rights reserved. MARVEL TM & © 2018 MARVEL
© Sky UK Ltd.
A Discovery of Witches (Season 1)
Landmarks Live in Concert
Drama | MA15+ A bewitched manuscript leads historian Diana into the heart of a dangerous mystery, forcing her to embrace her heritage.
Lifestyle World-famous musicians perform at world-famous landmarks, captivating viewers in an expansive doco-travel experience.
© 2018 FX Productions, LLC. All rights reserved.
Atlanta (Seasons 1-2) Comedy | M In an attempt to make something of themselves and better the lives of their families, cousins Earn and Alfred take on the rap music scene in Atlanta.
© Disney
Mickey and the Roadster Racers (Season 1) Kids | G Mickey, Donald, Goofy, Minnie and Daisy take their transforming roadsters in races around town.
Legion (Seasons 1-2) Drama | MA15+ David Haller, a troubled man who believed he was schizophrenic, discovers that, instead, he could be the most powerful mutant who has ever lived.
© Disney
Elena of Avalor (Season 2) Kids | G Princess Elena befriends the mysterious Sirenas in their underwater world and uses her power to help all the people of Avalor.
© 2018 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All rights reserved.
Jackie Chan’s Green Heroes
Finding My Twin Stranger
Lifestyle | PG Jackie Chan is on a mission to test the world’s first fully mobile plastics recycling machine in one of the harshest environments.
Lifestyle Ever wondered if there’s someone out there who looks exactly like you? The experts’ tests see if there’s more to it than coincidence.
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> MUSIC VIDEOS.
Michael Jackson
> ALBUMS. Solastalgia Missy Higgins
Lost Friends Middle Kids
Beloved Australian singersongwriter Missy Higgins is back with her fifth studio album. The album’s title is a mashup of “solace” and “nostalgia” – a reference to the kind of distress caused by environmental change close to your home.
The debut album from Sydney-based alternative indie band Middle Kids sees Hannah Joy, Tim Fitz and Harry Day mix a subtle alt-country flavour with an acute sense of melody, plus layers of complex and heartfelt emotion.
A Star Is Born Lady Gaga and Bradley Cooper
Volver Plácido Domingo and Pablo Sáinz Villegas
The official soundtrack to the hit 2018 musical film of the same name includes 19 songs and 15 dialogue tracks from the moments that follow the musical arc and mirror the experience of watching the film.
World-renowned opera tenor Plácido Domingo and global ambassador of the Spanish guitar Pablo Sáinz Villegas come together in this celebration of famous Iberian and Latin American songs.
> PODCASTS & RADIO.
Osher Günsberg
Osher Günsberg Podcast Hughesy and Kate Chrissie, Sam and Browny Kate, Tim and Marty I Don’t Know How She Does It – Girls Jonesy and Amanda Aussies in Hollywood Crappy to Happy with Tiff Hall and Cass Dunn Feed Play Love
New Hits Various The freshest new clips from today’s biggest artists, featuring Sigala, The Chainsmokers, Holy Holy, Tom Walker, Amy Shark, Imagine Dragons, Zara Larsson, Khalid, Rüfüs Du Sol, Guy Sebastian and 5 Seconds of Summer.
00s + 10s Various Millennium hits for you to enjoy, featuring Pete Murray, Jebediah, Avril Lavigne, NSYNC, Pitbull and Kesha, Omi, Usher, Lupe Fiasco, Train and many more.
90s Various Daryl Braithwaite, Backstreet Boys, Savage Garden, Midnight Oil, George Michael, TLC, Augie March and Boyz II Men are some of the 90s hit music artists included in this line-up.
80s Various Featuring awesome 80s clips from Michael Jackson, Wham!, Eurythmics, The Church, Run DMC and Aerosmith, Air Supply, Cyndi Lauper and Herbie Hancock.
The Pass food podcast Kennedy Molloy The Coach with Paul Roos Fitzy and Wippa A Plate to Call Home with Gary Mehigan The Property Couch Fifi, Fev and Byron We Fact Up Will and Woody
Hitched The Mentor with Mark Bouris Birth, Baby and Beyond with Midwife Cath Kyle and Jackie O Carrie and Tommy The Grill Team Gold FM Jase and PJ The Slow Home Podcast
SYDNEY. >
TAXI ABOUT $45
>
>
AIRPORT TO CIT Y Touching down in a new city? Here's how to get to the centre of the action your way.
>
TAXI ABOUT $40
>
BUS $4.80 Bus Route 380, which takes its name from the Airbus A380 aircraft, departs T1 and T2 and is a limited stops service, terminating at Elizabeth Quay Bus Station in the city centre. For those travelling from T3 and T4, Route 40 operates daily between the airport and Elizabeth Quay Bus Station.
>
TIP... The Experience WA smartphone app gives you access to the latest information on local tourist attractions, restaurants, accommodation, transport options and more.
TRAIN $18.70 Catching a train into the city is easy and takes about 10 minutes. Grab the T8 Airport and South Line towards City Circle, which stops at Central Station.
> BUS $5.80 While it does not head into the CBD, Route 400 operates between Bondi Junction in the city’s east and Burwood in the west. You can catch the bus from outside the T1 International and T3 Domestic terminals. > TIP... Trains and buses from the airport start around 5am daily and end at midnight.
ADELAIDE.
PERTH. “WHEN TRAVELLING [WITH FOUR KIDS], WE TRY TO BE A LITTLE MORE RELAXED WITH THE RULES. THEY’RE ALLOWED TO DO MUCH MORE WHEN IT COMES TO FOOD AND TV THAN WHEN WE’RE AT HOME.” ROGER FEDERER
>
MELBOURNE. (TULLAMARINE)
TAXI ABOUT $30
>
BUS $10.40 (DAYTRIP) The JetBus and doubledecker JetExpress airport to city services depart the terminal from Sir Richard Williams Avenue and stop at Currie Street in the city centre. From there, it is just a short walk to Adelaide Oval, Rundle Mall and the city’s main train station on North Terrace.
> TIP... If you are staying in the city of churches for the weekend, purchase a $25 Metrocard Visitor Pass. The ticket gives tourists unlimited travel on buses, trains and trams across three consecutive days.
TAXI ABOUT $65
>
BUS $19.50 The Skybus Melbourne City Express departs the airport every 10 minutes and stops at the busy inner city Southern Cross Station. From there, you can catch another bus, train, tram or slip into a cab at the taxi stand located directly outside on Spencer Street.
> TIP... Explore the CBD onboard the free City Circle tourist tram between 10am and 9pm from Thursday to Saturday and between 10am and 6pm from Sunday to Wednesday.
MELBOURNE. (AVALON)
> TAXI ABOUT $130 TO MELBOURNE, $50 TO GEELONG >
BUS $22 TO MELBOURNE, $18 TO GEELONG The SkyBus Avalon City Express takes about an hour to travel from Avalon Airport to Southern Cross Station in Melbourne CBD. If you are heading to Geelong, the SkyBus Avalon Geelong Express takes about 40 minutes to reach the port town.
> TIP... Download the handy Avalon Airport smartphone app for information about transport, car hire, parking and flight schedules.
T HE IN SIDER
BRISBANE. >
TAXI ABOUT $45
> TRAIN $18.50 The Airtrain is a quick and easy option for travelling from the airport into the city. Trains depart every 15 minutes during peak hour and every 30 minutes during off-peak periods. The Airtrain takes just 20 minutes to get to Central Station in the city centre. The service starts at 5am on weekdays and 6am on weekends and the last train departs at 10pm. >
TIP... Download the BNE app to help you find transport options, maps, where to dine and shop, parking information and more.
GOLD COAST. >
HOBART. “WHEN I FIND OUT WHERE I’M GOING, I PICK UP MY PHONE AND GO TO THE WEATHER APP. I LOOK AT WHAT IT IS LIKE WHERE I’M TRAVELLING TO AND THEN I GET ON INSTAGRAM TO FIND OUT WHO IS WEARING WHAT.” CATRIONA ROWNTREE
TAXI ABOUT $60
> BUS $21 The SkyBus Gold Coast Airport Shuttle operates seven days a week and is a dedicated service for visitors travelling from the airport to the Gold Coast’s most popular tourist spots. The shuttle departs from outside the airport terminal and stops at Burleigh Heads, Broadbeach, Surfers Paradise and Southport.
>
TAXI ABOUT $50
>
BUS $19.50 The SkyBus Hobart Express service operates daily and departs regularly from the airport. The bus takes about 30 minutes to travel to the city centre, stopping at Brooke street Pier before terminating at 19 Macquarie Street, which is located behind the Grand Chancellor Hotel.
> TIP... Download the Hobart Cabs 131 008 smartphone app to order and track your taxi from the airport. For everything to see, eat, sleep, shop and play in Hobart, get The Guides by Lonely Planet app.
> TIP... Gold Coast Cabs offer special flat rate fares from the airport to accommodation located in Surfers Paradise ($65) or Broadbeach ($55).
CAIRNS.
BALLINA.
DARWIN.
>
> TAXI ABOUT $100 TO BYRON BAY
>
TAXI ABOUT $30
> BUS $6 The Airport Connect bus departs from Cairns Airport every 30 minutes from 4.30am until the last flight of the day. The bus takes passengers on a 10-minute trip to a bus depot at Sheridan Street in the city, where they can continue their journey on a Translink public bus. Alternatively, you can book a shuttle into the city for $6 one-way with Backpacker Shuttle Cairns. > TIP... It is not a joke – crocs are about! Look out for the red and yellow signs around town and stay croc aware.
>
“TO TRAVEL IS TO LIVE.” HANS CHRISTIAN ANDERSEN
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BUS $7.20 The Route 640 bus from Ballina Airport takes close to an hour to make the 37-kilometre journey to the popular beachside town of Byron Bay.
> TIP... If you prefer to have your transport organised and booked in advance, check out the Ballina Byron Gateway Airport website for information about shuttle bus services. For those who want to explore and find their own way, all major car rental companies are represented at the airport.
TAXI ABOUT $30
>
BUS PRICE ON BOOKING The Darwin City Airport Shuttle Service is available seven days a week to take you from the airport to your accommodation in the city. The shuttle departs every 20 minutes during peak period and services all major flights to the airport. Online bookings must be made 24 hours in advance.
> TIP... If you are staying at the Mercure Darwin Airport Resort or Novotel Darwin Airport Hotel, a free shuttle bus service is available for transfer from the terminal to your accommodation.
BALI. >
TOKYO. “I MAKE SURE THAT THE SECOND I LAND, I EXERCISE. I WEAR A FITBIT – IT DOESN’T MATTER WHERE I AM IN THE WORLD, I HAVE A 14,000-STEP GOAL TO HIT EVERY DAY.” HARLEY PASTERNAK
TAXI ABOUT $7 TO KUTA
>
BUS $2 There are a range of bus options to choose from but a popular choice is the bright green Kura-Kura tourist bus, which stops at most major locations across the island. The closest departure point to the airport is outside the Aston Kuta Hotel, which is a brisk 16-minute walk from the terminal.
SINGAPORE.
>
>
> TIP... Show the name of your hotel to the bus conductor so the driver can tell you where to get off. It is also handy to have a map available on your phone.
TAXI ABOUT $35
> TRAIN $2 The Changi Airport MRT Station (CG2) is located under Terminal 2. Take the train to Tanah Merah station and change to the East West Line heading towards City Hall. > BUS $9 The City Shuttle bus departs every 15 minutes during peak periods and every 30 minutes during off-peak. The trip to the city takes 25 minutes and stops at most major hotels. > TIP... Save your roaming budget and connect to the free Wi-Fi at Changi Airport.
OSAKA. (KANSAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT)
TAXI ABOUT $250
>
>
TRAIN $37 The Narita Express or N’EX departs every 25 to 40 minutes and takes under an hour to reach Tokyo Station. Buy your ticket at JR EAST Travel Service Centers, which are located inside each of the three airport terminals.
> TIP... Grab the free shuttle to travel between the airport’s three terminals.
HO CHI MINH CITY.
> BUS $1 The Route 109 bus departs the airport every 15 to 20 minutes between 5.30am and 1am. The bus travels to the city centre (District 1), terminating at 23/9 Park via Pham Ngu Lao backpacker district and the Ben Thanh bus station. Travel time depends on traffic, but the yellow bus generally takes about 30 minutes to reach the city.
>
> BUS $11 The Keisei group’s Tokyo Shuttle takes 90 minutes to reach the city centre near Tokyo Station.
> TIP... Knowing how to say a few phrases in the local lingo can go a long way in Bali. To ask a local to help you call for a taxi, try saying, “Bisa tolong untuk telepon dan order taksi?”
TAXI ABOUT $10
(NARITA AIRPORT)
TAXI ABOUT $250
> TRAIN $28 Ride the Kansai Airport Express Haruka to Tennoji Station. There you can easily catch another train to Osaka or stay on the same train and head directly to Kyoto, which takes about 75 minutes. >
BUS $19 Travel in luxury aboard the Kansai International Airport Limousine Bus, which will take you directly to Osaka or Kyoto (for $31).
>
TIP... Taxis are expensive. Travel by train or bus instead.
FIJI. “YOU GROW UP SO MUCH BY TRAVELLING. YOU GET TO SEE SO MANY THINGS AND DIFFERENT WAYS OF LIFE. IT MAKES YOU WANT TO DO WHATEVER YOU’RE DOING REALLY WELL.” CHELSEA HANDLER
> TAXI ABOUT $10 TO NADI >
BUS $11 Airport Shuttle Fiji operate a 24-hour shuttle service from Nadi International Airport to most major hotels and resorts in Nadi. Bookings must be made at least one day prior to arriving at the airport.
> TIP... It is an offence for taxi drivers to take passengers without having their meter running. If your driver is not using a meter, note the taxi registration number and report it to the police. The driver may have their license suspended and receive a fine.
2
A IRP O R T T O CI T Y
AUCKLAND. >
TAXI ABOUT $60
> BUS $16 The SkyBus departs the airport every 10 minutes and takes approximately 55 minutes to arrive in the centre of Auckland. Alternatively, Super Shuttle can take you straight to your accommodation for $23 for the first passenger and $9 for every extra passenger travelling in the same group.
QUEENSTOWN. >
TAXI ABOUT $25
> BUS $5 The Orbus departs the airport every 15 minutes and takes approximately 25 minutes to reach the town centre. For $13, you can opt to share an 11-seater Super Shuttle for a convenient, tailored door-to-door journey from Queenstown Airport to your accommodation.
> TIP... TIP... If your accommodation The Auckland Transport is anywhere in the centre mobile app makes it easy of Queenstown, you can to move around the city. simply rely on foot power Download the app to help to get around – most you plan and track AT things in the adventure 20396845AA 2019-02-05T16:10:25+11:00 capital are within easy Metro buses, trains and walking distance. ferry services in real time. >
HONG KONG. >
TAXI ABOUT $50
>
TRAIN $20 The Airport Express departs every 10 minutes and takes around 24 minutes to reach Hong Kong Station in the bustling business district.
>
BUS $6 The Cityflyer route A21 is ideal for travellers heading into the city and perfect for those who want a preview of Hong Kong from the bus window. Buses depart every 15-20 minutes from the airport.
> TIP... Download the MTR Next Train app to keep track of real-time train schedules.
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HAWAII. (DANIEL K INOUYE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT)
> TAXI ABOUT $61 TO WAIKIKI >
BUS $4 Routes 19 and 20 depart from the second-level roadway at Honolulu Airport and stop off at downtown Honolulu, Ala Moana Shopping Centre and the hotel-dense Waikiki precinct.
> TIP... Taxi drivers are referred to as “ambassadors of aloha”. They are proud of their island and love pointing out landmarks and places of interest. Ask questions – you never know what local secrets you might learn.
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JSA0319p121 121
12/2/19 10:45 am
WHERE WE FLY Here’s how to get around our network – have fun planning your next trip.
INTERNATIONAL. Tokyo (Narita)
Zhengzhou Shanghai (Pudong) Guiyang
Dong Hoi
Phuket Penang Medan
Okinawa
Shantou/Jieyang Hong Kong Haikou Sanya
Hanoi
Da Nang Siem Reap Bangkok Phnom Penh
Yangon
Nagoya (Chubu)
Taipei
Guangzhou Chiang Mai
Osaka (Kansai)
Hawaii (Honolulu)
Clark
Manila
Ho Chi Minh City Kuala Lumpur
Singapore Jakarta Surabaya
Bali (Denpasar) Darwin Fiji (Nadi)
Cairns
Cook Islands (Rarotonga)
Brisbane
Gold Coast
Perth
Sydney Adelaide
Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Jetstar Asia Operated by Jetstar Pacific Operated by Jetstar Japan
Auckland
Melbourne (Tullamarine)
Wellington Christchurch Queenstown
T HE IN SIDER
DOMESTIC VIETNAM.
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DOMESTIC JAPAN.
Hanoi Hai Phong
Sapporo
Thanh Hoa Vinh Dong Hoi Hue
Nagoya (Chubu)
Da Nang Chu Lai
Matsuyama Osaka Fukuoka Takamatsu Nagasaki Oita Kochi Kumamoto Miyazaki Kagoshima
Quy Nhon
Pleiku
Tokyo (Narita) (Kansai)
Tuy Hoa Buon Ma Thuot Nha Trang Da Lat
Okinawa
Ho Chi Minh City
Phu Quoc
Miyako (Shimojishima)
Operated by Jetstar Pacific
Operated by Jetstar Japan
AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND.
Auckland New Plymouth
Darwin
Nelson Cairns Townsville Hamilton Island Whitsunday Coast Mackay
Queenstown
Sunshine Coast
Ayers Rock (Uluru)
Brisbane
Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Eastern Australia Airlines for Jetstar Airways
Gold Coast Newcastle
Sydney
Adelaide
Melbourne (Tullamarine)
Auckland
Melbourne (Avalon) Wellington
Launceston Hobart
Operated by Jetstar Airways
Christchurch Queenstown
Palmerston North Wellington
Christchurch Dunedin
Ballina Byron Perth
Napier
PUZZLES 1
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© Lovatts Puzzles
PICTURE A
PICTURE B
QUIZ 1 The Southern Cross features on the flags of which five nations? 2 Which American actress plays the title role in the 2019 film Captain Marvel? 3 What is the chemical symbol for the element, iron? 4 What is the name of the supercontinent that incorporated almost all landmasses on earth about 200 million years ago?
CROSSWORD Across 7 First name of picture A (6) 8 Out like a light (6) 9 Solar body (4) 10 Surname of picture B (8) 11 Keg contents (4) 12 Australia’s longest-serving PM, ... Menzies (6) 15 Olympic swimming great, Dawn ... (6) 17 Flamingo’s hue (4) 19 Company chief (8) 21 Infrequent (4) 22 Surname of picture C (6) 23 Look forward to (6) Down 1 Grammy Award-winning country singer, ... Urban (5) 2 Undaunted (8) 3 Hair trimmer (6) 4 Classic painting, old ... (6) 5 Indistinct shape (4) 6 Third course (7) 13 Legally insolvent (8) 14 Entrance (7) 16 Infant’s toy (6) 17 The Tenterfield Oration was a famous speech delivered by politician Henry ... (6) 18 Former Governor-General of Australia, Quentin ... (5) 20 The first woman to be elected to Australia’s House of Representatives, ... Lyons (4)
PICTURE C
5 Henry Crawford, Elizabeth Bennet and Emma Woodhouse are all characters created by which famous author? 6 The archipelago located off eastern Spain in the Mediterranean Sea is known as the what Islands? 7 What is the name of the long-running New Zealand soap opera that is set in an Auckland hospital? 8 What does DNA stand for?
CROSSWORD AND PUZZLES COMPILED BY LOVATTS
9 What is the Morse code sequence for the universal distress signal SOS? 10 Henry Mancini and Johnny Mercer wrote the song “Moon River” for which movie? 11 Cars Ford Falcon, Buick Skylark and Aston Martin Cygnet are all named after what? 12 Martin Luther King, Jr (pictured far right) delivered his famous “I have a dream” speech in what year?
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13 Flightless cormorants, Darwinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finches and marine iguanas are all animals that can be found where in the world? 14 On 15 April 1912, luxury British steamship RMS Titanic collided with an iceberg and sank in which ocean? 15 Cookie, frolic and holster are borrowed words that come from which language? 16 Which hard-shelled, round nut is native to Australia?
T Y
Create words of 4 letters or more using the given letters once only, but always including the middle letter. Do not use proper names or plurals ending with S. See if you can find the 9-letter word using up all letters.
10 good
15 very good
20+ excellent
17 What word describes a loop-like bend in a slow-moving river? 18 In earthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s atmosphere, is the troposphere above or below the stratosphere? 19 Which film series did not feature music from American composer John Williams: Star Wars, Harry Potter, The Lord of the Rings or Indiana Jones? 20 In the game of tennis, the point that follows a deuce score is called what? SOLUTIONS ON PAGE 130
Find the solutions on page 130.
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There are 19 size-themed words hidden in the grid. Search up, down, forwards, backwards and diagonally for the words. Can you find them all? B U MPER C OLO S SAL CYCLOPS EL EP H A N T EN O R M O U S GIG A N T IC G OL I AT H G RE AT H ULK IN G IM MENSE K IN G-SIZE L AR G E
M A M M OT H M AS SI VE MIG H T Y M O NST R O U S SIZ ABL E T I TA NIC W H OPPER
What is a math teacher’s favourite dessert? Pi!
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Why doesn’t the Grinch like knock knock jokes?
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Because there’s always Who’s there!
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What does the Gingerbread Man like to drink?
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Ginger ale. What is full of holes but can still hold water?
Stars. What happened when the wolf swallowed a clock?
SO URCE: FU NKIDS JOKES.C O M
A sponge. They come out every night without being called, but are lost every day without being stolen. What are they?
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He got ticks.
P U ZZLES
Can you spot the EIGHT DIFFERENCES between these two images? Circle what’s changed on the image below.
1 ANIMALS Test your knowledge with these super fun, totally awesome trivia questions.
1 Groups of lions are known as what? 2 Arachnophobia is a fear of what animal? 3 What is the tallest animal in the world? 4 What are female elephants called?
2 NURSERY RHYMES 1 What animal ran up the clock in “Hickory Dickory Dock”? 2 How many bags of wool are mentioned in “Baa, Baa, Black Sheep”? 3 Which flower is blue in “Roses are Red”?
3 MOVIES 1 Who does Jack Black play in Goosebumps? 2 Kevin McCallister is the main character in which movie series? 3 The song “In Summer” is performed by which Frozen character?
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e cave. wow! Today I’m in a pirat IF YOU can fin d FIND ME and then See , we nda, n ca see is his ta il) woof (but all you n you , an d od law. Also ca wizard wh ite bea rd ’s of wo spot my ke y, ra, bone, we nda’s ca me ’s rd bea ite wh wizard ’s law od d an scro ll, ? rs ula oc bin 9 Martin Handford, Where’s Wally? © 1987–201 All rights reserved. Ltd. s Book er Walk by published
More things to find...
„
A bed
Three miners
A bathtub
A man getting a haircut
A man on a horse
A film camera
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A bowl of fruit
A snake
A stretcher
A woman in a green skirt
A man rolled up in a rug
A quill
A rubber duck
A clipboard
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SOLUTIONS CROSSWORD
D B L E E P U S R O S E E B E R T A T P I N K E R B K A A C T O R R A R E U Y K T E X P E C T L L S E T E M B S A A S S R B U T T E E R O E R
K F T E R E I A S T A R H L B E S A F R A S R D I R E V N C A H I L D
© Lovatts Puzzles
WHEEL WORDS Rite, Rote, Tier, Tire, Tore, Tote, Trey, Tyre, Yeti, Yore, Error, Otter, Retro, Retry, Terry, Torte, Trier, Trite, Orrery, Retort, Rioter, Rotter, Terror, Terroir. 9-letter word: TERRITORY
QUIZ 1 Australia, New Zealand,
10 Breakfast at Tiffany’s 11 Birds 12 1963 13 The Galápagos Islands 14 North Atlantic Ocean 15 Dutch 16 Macadamia 17 Meander 18 Below 19 The Lord of the Rings 20 Advantage
Samoa, Papua New Guinea and Brazil
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Brie Larson Fe Pangea Jane Austen Balearic Shortland Street Deoxyribonucleic acid Three dots, three dashes
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2 The missing lamp on the wall. 3 The missing blue spots on Dulce (purple creature). 4 The colour of the vase on the shelf. 5 The eye colour of Migs (yellow creature). 6 The missing earring on Elena (woman).
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and three dots (. . . – – – . . .)
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7 The colour of the curtain. 8 The colour of the belt on Isabel (young girl).
Animals
Nursery
Movies
1 Prides
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2 Spider
1 A mouse
2 Home Alone
3 Giraffe
2 Three bags full
3 Olaf
4 Cow
3 Violets
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H I G H E R. B I G G E R. F A S T E R. L O N G E R.
NAWARLA GABARNMANG
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> Picture this: flying over the Northern Territory’s Arnhem Land plateau, spotting an unusual rocky overhang, landing to investigate and discovering a gallery of ancient rock paintings. That’s exactly what happened to Ray Whear and pilot Chris Morgan in 2006. The pair came across the archaeological rock-shelter during a routine aerial survey in Jawoyn Country, east of Darwin, and anthropological work with the area’s Indigenous elders has since revealed the name of the site – Nawarla Gabarnmang, which means “place of hole in the rock”. There’s evidence of people in the region dating back a staggering 45,000 years. Fifty rock pillars support the structure’s 19-metre wide ceiling, which is adorned with incredible paintings of humans, animals and other figures in red, orange, white or black. In some places, there are more than 30 layers of paint, with each layer representing centuries of developing artistic styles. But the paintings aren’t the only element that’s changed over time. Those who created the artworks also shaped the rock-shelter itself, with signs some of the natural pillars were dismantled or moved to increase the gallery space.
JO HN G OLL INGS (WI T H PERMISSIO N OF T HE TR ADI TIO NAL L AND OWNER, MARGARE T K AT HERINE)
W O R D S _ K A I T LY N P A L M E R - A L L E N
E ACH ISSUE WE FO C US O N A PL ACE P U NCHIN G AB OVE I TS WEIG H T
“I found it in Japan!” Voted Best Bidet in the world 2 years in a row
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Visit Kenzan Japanese restaurant for some of the freshest sushi and sashimi dishes in Melbourne, along with daily changing à la carte dishes and surprising specials. The restaurant has been in its current CBD location for 36 years, and is the most awarded Japanese restaurant in Melbourne. Be welcomed by friendly staff for an authentic Japanese dining experience.
Address: Collins Place, 45 Collins Street, Melbourne Tel: +61 (03) 9654 8933 Web: kenzan.com.au
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T HE GREAT ESCAPE
TA S M A N I A
A T O U R IS M TA S M A N I A P R O M O T IO N
Where incredible adventures are just the beginning
TTAS WWilds Jetstar Flipbook ad Lake Burbury Rd.indd 1
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Take the ultimate road trip in Tasmania and find everything you love. Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the white sand and azure waters along the Great Eastern Drive or the rugged mountains and untamed landscapes of the Western Wilds, this will be the journey of a lifetime.
CHOOSE YOUR OWN ADVENTURE >>> ROAD TRIPS
> WESTERN WILDS
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> G RE AT E A S T ER N D R I V E C O A S TAL W A N D ER ER
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LUXURY LOVER
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GOURMET DELIGHTS
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+ W H AT'S O N I N TA S M A N I A
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WORDS_ DANIELLE ROSS WALLS
EVENTS GUIDE
WESTERN WILDS > Discover rugged landscapes, ancient forests and curious history when you take the road less travelled in this untouched part of Tasmania. A destination for true explorers, this is nature at its finest. westernwilds.com.au
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Hike among giant trees, wondrous waterfalls and striking landscapes on the ultimate adventure holiday.
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R O D N E Y D U N N, C O-F O U N DER OF T H E AG R A R I A N K I T C H EN, N E W N O RF OL K What inspired you to start a farm-based cooking school (theagrariankitchen. com) in Tasmania?
My wife Séverine and I moved here from Sydney over 10 years ago. I had always worked in food – as an apprentice chef and then as a recipe developer and editor – but it was time to be more at the coalface and share our love of food.
Image: Matt Cherubino
RUS SELL FALLS
> From Hobart, follow the beautiful River Derwent through the bustling town of New Norfolk and on to Mount Field National Park, about a 90-minute drive away. The area is one of Tasmania’s best-loved national parks and home to several waterfalls, including Russell Falls, Horseshoe Falls and Lady Barron Falls. Wander among the cascades then take in the awe-inspiring forest giants on the Tall Trees Walk. From Mount Field, you can visit nearby towns such as Maydena – where you’ll find a huge gravity-focused mountain biking park (maydenabikepark.com) – on the 90-minute drive west towards Strathgordon. The enormous Lake Pedder is here and it is the perfect spot for trout fishing, kayaking and swimming. If you’re up for something more adrenaline-pumping, be sure to check out Aardvark Adventures (aardvarkadventures.com.au) – it’s the first company to go over the edge of the Gordon Dam. With a 140-metre drop, it’s now one of the world’s highest commercial abseiling adventures. Another unique activity that showcases the true beauty of south-west Tasmania is The Pedder Experience with Wild Pedder (wildpedder.com.au). The tour company offers a four-day trek – guided by passionate, knowledgeable locals – into the World Heritage-listed Southwest National Park. The trip includes meals and comfortable accommodation at the Pedder Wilderness Lodge (pedderwildernesslodge.com.au).
When did you open your restaurant?
We established the school at our home farm in Lachlan [40 minutes from Hobart in the Derwent Valley] in 2008. Then, in 2017, we set up the restaurant at Willow Court, a former mental asylum in New Norfolk. This year we’re moving the school next to the restaurant. It will run from the former men’s exercise yard, which has a rare walled garden. What’s your favourite ingredient right now?
I am currently obsessed with the different types of chilli in my garden. I’m also growing special varieties of corn that can be dried to make polenta. How would you describe your fellow Tasmanians?
“Salt of the earth” is a term that springs to mind.
R O A D T R IP # 2
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Spectacular snow-covered mountains, crisp clean air and crackling open fires – this rugged region has it all.
K I A H DAV E Y, O W N ER/M A N AG ER OF THE ROUND EARTH C O M PA N Y, S T R A H A N Where does your love of theatre come from? My father was in theatre. He took my family travelling around Canada, the US and Europe. We also lived in San Francisco while he was director at a theatre company. I have no doubt this experience of travelling shaped who I am.
That play is still running 25 years later. Why do you think it’s had such longevity? It has a bit of everything: adventure, excitement, romance and a fantastic unexpected twist at the end. What do you love most about living in Tassie? I love the beauty of the distinct seasons.
CR ADLE M O U N TAIN
Your dad started The Round Earth Company (roundearth.com.au), which you now operate. Did you ever work together? Dad [Richard Davey] brought the company from Hobart to Strahan over 25 years ago. He used it to tell a special local story, The Ship That Never Was, which is about the last great convict escape from Sarah Island [off Strahan on Tasmania’s west coast]. We worked together until he became ill about eight years ago. It’s an honour to continue what he started and to keep the local history alive.
Images: Emilie Ristevski, Paul Fleming, Nick Osborne
> Start your road trip at Cradle Mountain, which sits at the northern end of the World Heritage-listed Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park. In winter, regular snowfall creates a magical atmosphere. Warm yourself with a hot drink, then rug up and venture outside to follow the picturesque Enchanted Walk through old-growth rainforest – it’s an easy 20-minute stroll suitable for all ages and fitness levels. Alternatively, take a walk around the six-kilometre Dove Lake Circuit. Refuel over a meal of baked rainbow trout at the Cradle Mountain Hotel (cradlemountainhotel.com.au), then head to the adjacent Cradle Mountain Wilderness Gallery (wildernessgallery.com.au). Here you can enjoy the artists’ interpretations of this wild region through original sculptures, drawings, paintings and installations. Book into a self-contained alpine cabin at Cradle Mountain Highlanders Cottages (cradlehighlander.com. au) for the night and snuggle up next to your cosy log fire with a nip of one of Tasmania’s award-winning whiskies. Cradle Mountain isn't just about soaking up nature, you can get your culture fix here too at the Cradle Mountain Film Festival (turn to page 10 to find out more).
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Enjoy a slice of west coast paradise, topped off with a pretty sunset. > Begin in the harbour-side village of Strahan, gateway to the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park. Grab an espresso from The Coffee Shack on the Esplanade, then explore the village’s convict history with a cruise on the Gordon River (gordonrivercruises.com.au). Along the way, step back in time on Sarah Island, an infamous former penal settlement. To fully appreciate your island tour, book tickets to see The Ship That Never Was in the evening. The play tells the true story of an escape from the island. Next, head to Henty Dunes, 14 kilometres north of Strahan, where some of the remarkable sand dunes reach up to 30 metres. Strahan ATV Adventures (strahanatvadventures.com.au) offers an adrenaline-fuelled way to explore them. The dunes fringe Ocean Beach – Tasmania’s longest at more than 30 kilometres. Return to Strahan and stay the night at Risby Cove (risbycove.com.au) on the waterfront. T HE S TR A H A N WATERFR O N T
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Admire architecture from a bygone era and soak up the region's history. > Drive 90 minutes south-west from Cradle Mountain to the once-thriving mining town of Zeehan. Gain an insight into its history through exhibits of trains, films and artefacts at the West Coast Heritage Centre (wchczeehan.com.au). Travel a further 30 minutes to the historic mining port of Strahan, where you can spend the night at boutique hotel Franklin Manor (franklinmanor.com.au) or continue on to Queenstown, a 40-minute drive away. With its rocky moonscape created by early 1900s copper mining, Queenstown offers a quirky counterpoint to the rest of the region. It is also the starting point for the West Coast Wilderness Railway (wcwr.com.au), which rides along a 35-kilometre stretch of stunning river gorges and into lush rainforest. Overnight at the Empire Hotel (empirehotel.net.au), noted for its magnificent National Trust-listed staircase.
G R E AT E A S T E R N D R I V E > Some of the world’s best beaches are right here in Tasmania – but there's so much more. With amazing coastlines, food and luxury experiences, the eastern edge of the island has plenty of secrets up its sleeve. greateasterndrive.com.au
DARL IN G TO N BAY, M ARIA ISL A ND
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COASTAL WANDERER TRIABUNNA O RF O R D
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Sun, sea, sand and surf with a side of interesting history – take it all in by car, foot and boat on Tasmania’s eastern shoreline.
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A N N A H OFF M A N N, C O-F O U N DER OF B AY OF FIRES B U S H RE T RE AT, B AY OF FIRES Tell us a bit about yourself. As kids, my partner Tom Dicker [co-founder of Bay of Fires Bush Retreat, bayoffiresbushretreat. com.au] and I spent lots of time with family staying around the Bay of Fires on Tasmania’s north-east coast. Setting up the retreat in 2016 felt like a natural next step for us.
Images: Flow Mountain Bike, Lisa Kuilenburg
SPRIN G BEAC H
> Begin the day with a stroll along the two-kilometre Shelly Beach to Spring Beach coastal walk. Have a swim or relax on Spring Beach, just one of the stunning coastal stretches around this lovely little town. If you’re feeling active, you can also try fishing or bushwalking. Save the afternoon for a visit to Darlington Vineyard (darlingtonvineyard.com.au) to sample some fine wine while overlooking the historic Darlington settlement and convict prison on Maria Island. Triabunna, the departure point for the Maria Island National Park, is just a 10-minute drive north from the vineyard (don't forget to take the Maria Island pledge, to keep a safe distance from the wombat residents). Take a quick boat ride from the marina to visit the island’s World Heritage-listed Darlington Probation Station, ramble in the rock pools or take a walk to either Painted Cliffs or Fossil Cliffs (one to two hours return each). There are also longer walks to the summits of Bishop and Clerk (three to five hours return) or Mount Maria (six to seven hours return). If Maria Island’s former prison life has you intrigued, you can spend the night here in a former convict's room (eastcoasttasmania.com). Once you’re back on mainland Tasmania, end your exploration with a 40-minute drive north to Swansea. Beautiful scenery awaits if you take pit stops at local beaches around Little Swanport and Mayfield Bay.
Your retreat offers the opportunity for guests to cook in the communal kitchen. Why did you opt for this type of experience? We’ve both done a lot of backpacking and wanted to capture that essence without sacrificing luxuries [you can have a two-course dinner cooked for you], but we do love to see people meeting and sharing stories while cooking together. What other experiences can you have in the area? So many – snorkelling, surfing, swimming, fishing, bushwalking, mountain biking, photography and, of course, walking the white sandy beaches. What is so special about Tassie right now? It’s always been about the people, their honesty and passion. Increased tourism means it’s more accessible now though.
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Indulge in fine food and pampering experiences on the east coast. > Base yourself at Rocky Hills Retreat near Swansea, a bushland hideaway featuring an outdoor Huon pine bath – perfect for soaking under the stars. Just 25 minutes away in Cranbrook is Gala Estate (galaestate.com. au), where you can sample fine wines and a gourmet hamper of local produce. The following day, book a scenic flight at Freycinet Air (freycinetair.com.au), less than an hour’s drive east. There’s no better way to take in the views of this beautiful corner of the island. From here, you can head to Saffire Freycinet resort (saffire-freycinet.com.au) in Coles Bay, overlooking the Hazards mountain range and Great Oyster Bay, for a weekend of indulgence. Their private pavilions are the height of luxury, offering a dinner-in-suite option with your own chef. Saffire guests can also enjoy an exclusive oyster and wine tasting at the Freycinet Marine Farm (freycinetmarinefarm.com). SAFFIRE FREYCINE T
OYS TERS FR O M FREYCINE T M ARINE FARM
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GOURMET DELIGHTS
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> Breakfast at one of Swansea's many cafés before visiting Milton Vineyard (miltonvineyard. com.au) for its cool-climate wines. Then, stop at Melshell Oyster Shack (melshelloysters.com.au) in Dolphin Sands for a seafood fix. Allow about 45 minutes to reach Coles Bay – your base for exploring Freycinet National Park and Wineglass Bay. Pull into the Freycinet Lodge for the night and treat yourself to dinner at Richardson’s Bistro (freycinetlodge.com.au). Only 40-minutes away is Bicheno – home to the Bicheno Food and Wine Festival held in November. Luckily, you can try fresh southern rock lobster here any time of the year at The Lobster Shack (lobstershacktasmania.com.au) and sample handcrafted brews at IronHouse Brewery, located a 30-minute drive north. While you're on the east coast, don't miss the Festival of Voices (more on page 11).
Image: Andrew Wilson
Taste award-winning wine and seafood, while exploring nature.
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W H AT ' S O N I N TA S M A N I A
CR ADLE M O U N TAIN FIL M FESTIVAL W H ERE C R A DL E M O U N TA I N
> It’s not just amazing touring that makes Tassie so special. With a packed calendar of events, you can enjoy live music, take in a film on top of a mountain, sample great food and drinks and do lots more.
W H EN 29-31 M A R 201 9
> This festival isn’t just about watching awesome local and international adventure films in one of the planet's most gorgeous spots. Festival-goers also attend filmmaking workshops and can partake in yoga, cold water therapy and canyoning. Feeling energetic? Venture farther afield for hikes that range from leisurely to borderline perilous. cradlemountainfilmfest.com
SHIMAN O END URO TASMANIA W H ERE D ERBY W H EN 31 M A R 201 9
> At Enduro Tasmania, the world’s best mountain bikers race across the Blue Derby trails, taking on fern forests, granite slabs and some of the best views in the region. Cheer on your favourite racers and then top the day off with live music and a few drinks at “The Village Afterparty”. enduroworldseries.com
DARK M OFO W H ERE H O B A R T
> Dark Mofo is Hobart’s subversive winter festival, put on by the Museum of Old and New Art. The festival’s art installations, talks and musical performances are mesmerising, strange and sometimes outrageous. In 2018, there were controversial talks on free speech (Dark and Dangerous Thoughts) and a widely critiqued art installation featuring giant red upside-down crosses was displayed across the city. If you find yourself visiting Tassie in warmer months, check out Mona Foma (mofo.net.au) in Launceston instead. The summer music and arts festival pushes boundaries in an eccentric but light-hearted way – one year they handed out onesies for an early morning street dance party. It’s anyone’s guess what they’ll do next. darkmofo.net.au
Images: Lusy Productions, Andrew Wilson
DARK M OFO
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FESTIVAL OF VOICES W H ERE H O B A R T A N D E A S T C O A S T
EFFERVESCENCE TASMANIA
ROLEX SYDNEY H OBART YACH T R ACE
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W H ERE H O B A R T
> This huge musical event takes over Hobart and the east coast for two weeks each winter with a packed program of concerts, workshops and performances that encourage visitors to get involved. One of the highlights is the Big Sing Bonfire in Salamanca, which brings together thousands of locals, festival-goers and vocalists for a fireside singalong. festivalofvoices.com
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> Forget Champagne – Tasmania’s cool climate and plentiful landscape makes it the perfect spot to craft some of the best bubbles in the world. At Effervescence, 15 producers showcase their sparkling wines at events like degustation lunches and dinners, master classes, tastings and sabrage demonstrations. effervescencetasmania.com
A RR I V ES H O B A R T 27-28 D EC 201 9
EFFERVESCEN CE TASM A NIA
> The Sydney to Hobart yacht race is a summer institution, even if you know absolutely nothing about sailing. Running annually for the past 75 years, it’s one of the most gruelling, long-distance ocean races in the world. The Sydney start might get a lot of attention but the Hobart finish line is also pretty epic – partly because it coincides with The Taste of Tasmania food and wine festival. While you’re waiting for the winner to sail in, sample international dishes prepared using locally sourced produce, paired with Tasmanian wines, ciders and beers. Stick around for New Year’s Eve and you’ll be treated to fireworks on Hobart’s picturesque waterfront. rolexsydneyhobart.com
WORDS_ PIL AR MITCHELL
R OLEX SYD NEY H OBART YAC H T R ACE
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