Jetstar Australia Magazine — NOV 2019

NOV 2019

MAGAZINE

BEEP BEEP: A FA M ILY V ESPA T O U R I N V IE T N A M F R EE T O TA K E H O M E

O N E W O M A N’S W IL D W AL K AC R O S S N E W ZE AL A N D

MAGAZINE

W H Y F O O DIES L O V E T H E S A PP H IRE C O A S T

SHHH ...

The 7 secret islands that have it all.

Your escape starts now.

NOV 2019

B U S S E LT O N

FUKUOKA

T H A IL A ND

GOLD COAST

SYDNEY

SEOUL

BALI

CAMBODIA

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NOV 2019

CONTENTS

the traveller W HERE T O G O N E X T

048 SECRET ISLANDS Get to these little-known paradise isles in Asia before the rest of the world does.

the checklist ALL T HE T R AVEL IN T EL YO U NEED N O W

0 1 8 7 M Y T H S A B O U T...

Fukuoka.

0 2 0 T W O S I D E S O F...

Noosa.

0 2 2 P O S T C A R D F R O M ...

Dunsborough, WA.

0 2 4 H AC K: C A PI TAL

CITIES ON A BUDGET

How to save when visiting the big smoke – without missing the fun.

0 2 7 T R AV E L T R E N D S: B E S T

M O V IE L O C AT IO N S Put yourself in the picture at these cinema tourism hotspots.

0 3 0 H A C K: F ES T I V E G AT H ER I N G S

How to prep for a happy holiday get-together.

033 SMARTER WORKING

We uncover the latest trends and hack the best minds of the modern business world.

0 3 7 T E C H

What’s new on the scene; and a buyer’s guide to wireless earbuds.

0 4 1 T R A V E L N E W S

All the latest updates, info and events from around our network.

044 CALENDAR

Melbourne Cup, The Wiggles and U2 – what not to miss this month.

058 B U S S ELT O N

This seaside Western Australian town is bursting with surprises for foodies and families alike.

008

C O N T EN T S

060 NEW ZEALAND Hiking the ruggedly beautiful Tongariro Alpine Crossing.

the cut T H E BES T OF W H ERE T O E AT, D R IN K A N D PL AY

0 8 8 E A T + D R I N K : GOLD COAST

With a focus on fresh, the tourist mecca is now a foodie destination.

0 9 6 H A P P Y H O U R S: S E O U L

Grab a deal on wine, beer and more in the South Korean capital.

1 0 0 A N AT O M Y OF A DIS H

Japan’s love of sushi is now universal – here’s why.

102 BAR TRENDS

The charm of yesteryear and the frisson of hidden doors make for the return of speakeasies.

105 EXPERIENCE

066

072

THE SAPPHIRE COAST

BALI

Have a whale of a time in nature at the sparkling jewel that is the NSW’s far South Coast.

A focus on self in a luxe location could be the key to beginners finding their way to wellness.

Sustainable eating has rekindled interest in the art of foraging.

1 0 8 M Y P L A C E: C R O N U L L A

The Amazing Race Australia’s Beau Ryan shows off his hometown.

110 STREET STYLE Update your look with inspiration from hip South Yarra.

112 FASHION

Step up your travel game with shoes that are stylish.

the insider JE T S TA R N E W S, M AP S A N D EN T ER TA IN MEN T

1 1 6 JE T S TA R N E W S 1 1 9 EN T ER TA IN M EN T 124 AIRPORT TO CITY 1 2 8 W H E R E W E FLY 130 GAMES + PUZZLES 1 3 6 H I G H E R , BI G G E R , 078

F A S T E R , LO N G E R

HOI AN Family fun riding vintage Vespas through this colourful Vietnamese city.

Cover photography

by Kyle Hunter.

E DITOR I A L .

EDITORIAL INQUIRIES

EDITOR Jacqueline Lunn

SENIOR EDITORIAL COORDINATOR

DEPUTY EDITOR Sudeshna Ghosh

Anneliese Beard

CONTRIBUTORS.

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jon Gregory DESIGNER Lisa Emmanuel CHIEF SUBEDITOR Nick Hadley SUBEDITOR Deborah Grunfeld PHOTOGRAPHIC EDITOR Nicola Sevitt

Suite 58, 26-32 Pirrama Road, Pyrmont, NSW 2009 P (02) 8114 8944 E jetstar.editorial@mediumrarecontent.com

MANAGING EDITOR, JETSTAR Simon Tsang

A DVERT I S I N G .

HEAD OF SALES, TRAVEL AND LUXURY

VIC & QLD ADVERTISING DIRECTOR

Tony Trovato | (02) 8114 8920

Chris Joy | (03) 9292 3207

NATIONAL ADVERTISING MANAGER

VIC GROUP SALES MANAGER

AND CLIENT PARTNER

Belinda Morton | (03) 9292 1159

Anne Jacqueline Paul | (03) 9292 1817

VIC ACCOUNT MANAGER

ADVERTISING SALES COORDINATOR

Brittany Groth | (03) 9292 3180

Madeline Payne | (02) 8114 8643

WA & SA STATE MANAGER

NSW SALES MANAGER

Gloria Karageorge | 0424 034 430

Tim Partridge | (02) 8114 6101

QLD & NT ACCOUNT MANAGER

NSW ACCOUNT MANAGER

Kasia Brzezicka | 0447 383 072

Anthony Sullivan | (02) 8114 8954

NEW ZEALAND BUSINESS

MARK GAMBINO Based in Melbourne, Mark is a technology journalist with more than 14 years in the industry. When he isn’t writing about tech for us (p. 37), he enjoys a solid Xbox multiplayer session with friends and improving his coffee brewing skills.

DEVELOPMENT MANAGER

Stuart Tovey | +64 21 711 606

M EDIUM R A R E C O N T E N T A G E N C Y. MANAGING DIRECTOR Gerard Reynolds DIRECTOR Sally Wright CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Fiorella Di Santo HEAD OF CONTENT, TRAVEL AND LUXURY Kirsten Galliott DIGITAL DIRECTOR Karla Courtney MULTIMEDIA DIRECTOR Shannon O’Meara SOCIAL DIRECTOR Scott Drummond STRATEGY DIRECTOR Lyndsey Long FINANCE MANAGER Leslie To

Jetstar magazine is published monthly and is complimentary to domestic and international passengers. Published for Jetstar Airways

by Medium Rare Content Agency (ABN 83 169 879 921), Suite 58/26-32 Pirrama Road, Pyrmont, NSW 2009. ©2019. All rights reserved.

Printed by Ovato Print Pty Ltd. Paper fibre is from sustainably managed forests and controlled sources. No responsibility is accepted for unsolicited material. Articles express the opinions of the authors and not necessarily those of Jetstar Airways or Medium Rare Content Agency. For a copy of Medium Rare Content Agency’s Privacy Policy, visit mediumrarecontent.com. ISSN 1443-2013.

We want you to know that at Jetstar our writers are not armchair travellers.

Any assistance we do accept from the travel industry to produce our stories does not compromise the integrity of our coverage.

For flight reservations jetstar.com For hotel bookings and holiday packages jetstar.com/hotels jetstar.com/holidays

ALEXANDRA CARLTON A journalist for 20 years, Sydney-based Alexandra has worked with leading lifestyle magazines and written for the likes of Marie Claire, Gourmet Traveller and Qantas magazine to name just a few. She went exploring NSW’s Sapphire Coast in this issue (p. 66).

HAHNA YOON A Seoul-based writer who covers travel, food and culture, Hahna has been published in The New York Times and Lonely Planet, among others. This month, she gives us the lowdown on Seoul’s coolest bars (p. 96).

CEO’S LE T T ER

Introducing flights to Australia’s premiere foodie destination > Thanks for choosing Jetstar.

It is not every day that we get to announce the launch of a new route that will be linking two cities for the first time.

Last month I had the wonderful experience of visiting Western Australia to announce our new service directly linking Melbourne and Busselton in the Margaret River region, starting March next year.

Margaret River (and its surrounds) was recently named the top place to visit in the Asia-Pacific by Lonely Planet and it is renowned for its wines, incredible food, world-class surf beaches and walking trails.

When we start flying in March next year it will be the first-ever regular commercial service to Busselton, opening up this beautiful part of the world to people from the east coast looking for a short break and saving them the two-and-a-half hour drive from Perth to Busselton.

But the aspect I loved most about being in Busselton for the announcement was hearing from locals about how the new service was going to change their lives and open up the south west to more tourism and business.

CELEBR AT IN G WI T H G OVERNMEN T REPRESEN TATIVES

“MARGARET RIVER WAS NAMED T HE TOP PL ACE TO VISIT IN T HE ASIA-PACIFIC AND IS REN O W NED FOR WINE, FO OD AND BEACHES.”

Our new service is predicted to help more than 60,000 east coast visitors discover the region over three years, creating new business and employment opportunities and contributing more than $40 million to the local economy over that time.

Within 24 hours of going on sale, more than 3000 customers in the west and the east, as well as some international visitors, had booked flights for short breaks, food-and-wine tours, shopping trips, family visits and major sporting and cultural events.

As the leading low fares airline in the Australia-Pacific region, we strive to make travel more affordable and put these types of experiences within reach of more customers.

If initial customer interest in our new Melbourne to Busselton flights is a guide, we’re expecting the route to be hugely popular and we can’t wait to start introducing people to this part of the world.

We look forward to sharing it with you soon.

G ARE T H E VA N S CEO, JE T S TA R G R O U P

013

014

JE T S TAR S O CI AL

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INTO THE BLUE THE COAST IS CLEAR AT THE BASIN, ROTTNEST ISLAND, IN WA. @PB.AY

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017—046

the checklist > ALL THE TRAVEL INTEL YOU NEED NOW

M OV IE LO C AT IO NS PA G E

027 F UK U OK A

PA G E

018

> During Japan’s middle ages, the historic Hakata Old Town section of Fukuoka was the nation’s largest trading port.

D U NSB O R O U G H

PA G E

> Western Australia‘s last lighthouse keeper looked after the Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse until 1996.

022

C A NBERR A

PA G E

044

> The name of Australia’s capital city comes from the old Aboriginal word kambera, meaning “meeting place”.

018

T HE C HECKL IS T

7 M Y T H S AB O U T...

Fukuoka —The seventh largest city in Japan has a reputation for its colourful nightlife.

But as Helen Foster discovers, beyond the bright lights lie ancient castles, magnificent shrines and islands bursting with flowers (and cats)—

MY TH # 1 > You can see it all in a day It’s possible to tick off mustsees such as the main temples, the 234m-high Fukuoka Tower (fukuokatower.co.jp), nearby Seaside Momochi – a 1km stretch of sand with 1960s surf shack beach bar – and Canal City mall with its winding waterways, in a day. But you won’t get to Nokonoshima, the nearby island full of flowers (nokonoshima. com/en), or Dazaifu Tenmangu, an immense Shinto shrine in Fukuoka, Kyushu.

And you’ll want to.

Allow at least two to three days to do Fukuoka well.

MY TH #3 MY TH #2 It’s pronounced Fuk – u – oka > Stop giggling at the back, the correct pronunciation of this city’s name is foo-quo-ca.

Fukuoka is also the name of the area (prefecture) where the city is located. Oddly, neither place is home to Fukuoka station – that’s about 900km away on the main Japanese island of Honshu. If you’re travelling to Fukuoka by bullet train, book your ticket to Hakata station (pronounced just as you think it would be).

It’s not as cool or quirky as Tokyo > You want quirky? Fukuoka has it. Head to Canal City and use your phone to save the city from Godzilla in their light show (canalcity.co.jp/english).

Or take a trip to Sanatorium, a café run by artist Takamasa Sumi, where drinks are served in medical beakers. You want cool? Head to the district of Daimyo where tiny stairwells lead to vintage clothing stores.

T H E C H ECKL IS T

019

“HE A D TO K USHIDA SHRINE TO SIP FR O M A N

MY TH #4 Fukuoka has a castle > Technically it has the ruins of one. Located in Maizuru Park, Fukuoka Castle was once the largest castle in Kyushu but was torn down during the Meiji Restoration period that started in 1868. Only some walls and a few of the previous 47 turrets remain. It is accessible by train (from Tenjin Station), subway (Ohorikoen on the Kuko Line), or bus followed by a short walk.

To visit a better-preserved monument, hop 16 minutes on the bullet train to Kokura. The five-storey Kokura Castle, built in 1602, has just re-opened after extensive renovation.

MY TH #5 The ‘Big Buddha’ temple is closed to visitors > Hidden on a hillside about a 30-minute train ride from Hakata station is Nanzoin Temple and a reclining Buddha that will astonish you. At 41 metres long and 11 metres high, it is the largest bronze statue in the world and weighs 300 tonnes – as much as a jumbo jet. The temple recently made headlines when its priest banned groups of foreign tourists. The key word though is groups – independent travellers in respectable clothing are still welcome.

A N T I-AGEIN G WELL.”

MY TH #6 It’s only worth going in July > Fukuoka’s biggest festival, Hakata Gion Yamakasa, where seven one-tonne floats race around the streets drawing hundreds of spectators, is in early July but there’s more on all-year round. The end of April is peak blooming time for one of Japan’s most stunning wisteria displays at Kawachi Wisteria Garden (kawachifujien.com).

Fukuoka is also one of the warmer places in Japan, perfect for a snowfree winter break.

MY TH #7 The nightlife is seedy > Oyafuko-dori, the main bar street in the Tenjin area, is nicknamed the ‘Street of Disrespectful Children’. Nakasu, the other nightlife area, is teeming with hostess bars.

However, much of the nefarious reputation of the area is fading. It is perfectly safe to walk around, with pretty izakaya tucked away in between the neon signs. And Nakasu is full of yatai – tiny outdoor food stalls where you can grab a drink and house specialities such as ramen.

AND 3 TRUTHS It’s a foodie paradise > Start with the 1100 yen sashimi breakfast at Hakata Uogashi next to Nagahama Fish Market; lunch on a steaming bowl of Tonkotsu ramen or a fiery Guru Guru Chicken kebab in Daimyo. In the evening, splash out at La Maison de la Nature Goh (gohfukuoka.com) – number 48 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list (hurry, it’s closing in 2020).

It’s full of beautiful shrines and temples > Nanzoin is just one of Fukuoka’s outstanding temples; also explore Tochoji with its five-storey scarlet pagoda and the largest seated Buddha statue in Japan and head to Kushida shrine to sip from an anti-ageing well.

It has an island full of cats > Just off the coast of Fukuoka, some 150 feral felines call the island of Ainoshima home. Brought by fisherman to stop mice and rats gnawing through their nets, the cats lounge in the sun, chase butterflies and purr for pictures.

Catch the ferry there from Shingu Port.

@ DAVE WILC O CKPH OTO GR APH Y

Noosa Heads The beaches here are popular for a reason, but one of the best ways to explore the cerulean waters of the Sunshine Coast at your own pace is with a boat charter.

Two sides

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@VISIT N O O SA

S N APS H O T

T H E C H ECKL IS T

of Noosa

Noosa Everglades Kayak through the water and search above for kingfishers and fairy-wrens in one of two tropical everglades systems in the world and home to nearly half of the country’s bird species.

P O S TC ARD FR O M

Dunsborough MARGARET RIVER

—Fine wines and raw coastal beauty are just the beginning at this beach hamlet. Make tracks into town where you’ll find stylish boutiques, art galleries and Indigenous-inspired cuisine—

1 YARRI When former Vasse Felix chef, Aaron Carr, fired up this laidback restaurant in the village centre in 2018 he became the talk of the town for all the right reasons. Named after the region’s native gums, Yarri showcases modern Australian flavours with an Indigenous menu built around the six seasons observed by the local Noongar people (first summer, second summer, autumn, winter, first spring and second spring). Carr pays homage to the produce with creations such as paperbark marron with butter, and saltbush and emu with sunflower, quandong and yolk. yarri.com.au WORDS_ JENNY HEWET T ILL U S T R AT IO N _ G ER G Ő GIL IC ZE

2 SUPERNOVA It may only be a small beachside hamlet but Dunsborough has serious style kudos. Keeping the town’s weekenders well heeled, this women’s shoe boutique – topped off with a healthy injection of leather wallets and handbags – will make you want to refresh your entire wardrobe, so enter at your own risk. supernovashoes.com.au 3 LANEWAY BOUTIQUE Locals may have gone above and beyond to keep this stylish boutique a secret (it’s at the back of a strip mall) but it’s worth seeking out for its carefully curated edit of Australian and international designers. Think minimalist leather slides and woven mules, feminine dresses from Bec & Bridge, One Teaspoon denim shorts, hats and oversized knits. lanewaybtq.com

T H E C H ECKL IS T

4 HOT CHOCOLATTE This modern-day milk bar doesn’t miss a beat when it comes to nostalgic sweets. The giant lolly jars here are stacked with throwback treats such as swirly lollipops and chocolate freckles. But there’s nothing old-school about the hot chocolate, which is served with crushed mint chocolate or honeycomb on top. If you prefer nice over naughty, inspect the fridge filled with raw versions including mint slice and peanut butter wheels. @hotchocolattedunsborough

5 ALBERT AND NIKOLA Not only does this country-feel wellness cafe and work spot serve superfood smoothie bowls, they also have free Wi-Fi so you can ‘gram it before you gulp it. Stay tuned to their Insta for updates on the Evening Series which include expert guests, cheese workshops and tastings. albertandnikola.com 6 MILC Set an hour aside to rummage through the jam-packed racks at this boxy boutique in the centre of town. The amount of stock can be overwhelming but they have an exhaustive collection of Aussie and international designers including Zulu & Zephyr swimwear, Faithfull The Brand, denim from Citizens of Humanity, Mother and Mavi, and fine jewellery from Temple of the Sun. milchomewares.com

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7 MERCHANT & MAKER An artisan grocer, gift shop and gourmet cafe, this all-rounder has a real community vibe with cozy corner bench seats and a share table. As well as making their own bread, foccacias, pastries, salads, sweets and sauces, Merchant & Maker sells a unique range of gifts including giant tea bags for the bath. merchantandmaker.com.au 8 CHRISTIAN FLETCHER GALLERY While local photographer Christian Fletcher’s award-winning landscapes and aerial shots would look at home in any beach house, they’ve also been transformed into wearable works of art. Think cashmere scarfs and kimonos, linen cushion covers, books and bags, which are printed in Fletcher’s moody ocean scapes. christianfletcher.com.au

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T HE C HECKL IS T

BRISBA NE > Enjoy the sights and the sunshine with eco-friendly bike hire scheme CityCycle (citycycle.com.au) – the first 30 minutes is free. Cool off with a dip at Streets Beach (a beach-style lagoon in South Bank) or pull up with a picnic at the riverside New Farm Park. > For cheap jokes and free laughs visit the Brisbane Powerhouse from 5pm Sundays for no-charge comedy nights (brisbanepowerhouse.org/events).

PERT H > Perth’s sunsets are truly spectacular.

Try the view from Colonial Gardens in Mosman Park, Zig Zag Scenic Drive in Gooseberry Hill, or iconic Cottesloe Beach – it costs nothing. > Volunteers at the Perth City Visitor Kiosk in the Murray Street Mall offer free 90-minute orientation, history and art tours (visitperth.com.au).

ADEL A IDE > Like the sweet stuff? Join a free tour at iconic chocolate makers Haigh’s Chocolates (tastings included). If you can’t resist buying some, look out for chocolate seconds on sale (haighschocolates.com.au/tours).

—Don’t want to spend a fortune on a trip to the big smoke? Here are novel ways to get bang for your buck—

> Parliament House (aph.gov.au), the Australian War Memorial (awm.gov. au) and the Canberra Space Centre (cdscc.nasa.gov) are free to visit. > Want to be surrounded by money while spending none? Take the family to the Royal Australian Mint (ramint. gov.au). It is free to visit and you can strike your own coin for just $3.

SYD NEY

MELB O URNE

H OBART

> Like animals? Save a fortune on accommodation by minding a pet via Aussie Housesitters (aussiehouse sitters.com.au) and live like a local.

Free except for the annual $84 fee. > Culture up with special offers on shows such as Hair at Lasttix (lasttix. com.au) or nab a $20 ticket to the Sydney Theatre Company with cheap tickets released each Thursday at 9am (sydneytheatre.com.au/ whats-on/twenties). > Stick to public transport on Sundays, when you can ride trains, buses and ferries all day for $2.80 with an Opal or linked card (transportnsw.info).

> Have a free day out taking the City Circle tram to some art at the NGV’s Ian Potter Centre (ngv.vic.gov.au), then walk to a summer concert at the Sidney Myer Music Bowl (mso.com.au). > Good food doesn’t have to cost much. Enjoy a barbecue by the Yarra, eat at pay-as-you-feel venue Lentil As Anything (lentilasanything.com) or grab a hot jam doughnut ($1.30 each at American Donut Kitchen) at Queen Victoria Market (qvm.com.au). > Melbourne has a vibrant array of cultural events. Catch a last-minute live show at a discounted price with halftixmelbourne.com.

> To hike, abseil or kayak in stunning places with locals, join the Tassie Adventure Meetup group (meetup. com) for just $5 per person per event.

DAR W IN > Why not update your Insta with a photo of a giant boxing crocodile? You need go no further than Humpty Doo, 30 minutes’ drive from the CBD. > Or to experience three of Darwin’s best attractions on the cheap – the beach, the sunsets and top-notch tucker (crocodile burger anyone?)

– dine out at the Mindil Beach Sunset Market (mindil.com.au).

ILL U S T R AT IO N _ B RE N T W IL S O N

The budget guide to Aussie capital cities

CA NBERR A

WORDS_ LARISSA HAM

TR AVEL H ACK

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Call 13 66 33 | internode.net.au/nbn Download speed measured between 7pm - 11pm. Actual speeds may vary due to access method, network, device and more.

Min charge incl $15 delivery fee. Available in selected coverage areas. Offer available to new Internode NBN customers only.

Jetstar Holiday Packages Book your flight and hotel as a package, and you’ll always get the best prices available at jetstar.com

On location

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W A IK AT O, N E W ZE AL A N D

HOBBITON MOVIE SET, NEAR MATAMATA > Step into magical Middle-earth two hours’ drive south of Auckland where Peter Jackson has created a fantasy township in enchanting detail, the Hobbiton Movie Set (hobbitontours. com). Featured in the Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit trilogies, quaint hobbit holes are set into sprawling hillsides on part of a sheep and cattle farm.

The pine “Party Tree” towers over it all, including Bilbo Baggins’ home, one of 44, on a nearby rising hill.

TR AVEL TREN D S

—Cinema tourism, where travellers head to places made famous by films, is on the rise, benefiting local communities and the box office alike. Here are some spots where you too can have a movie moment – BYO entourage—

F U N FAC T After the Ring trilogy wrapped, the set was mostly dismantled. But permanent materials were used when it was rebuilt for The Hobbit films, leaving behind the fully realised tourist attraction.

SIEM RE A P, C A M B O DI A

TA PROHM, ANGKOR ARCHAEOLOGICAL PARK > Most come for the splendour of Angkor Wat but another of the stunning wonders of Angkor Archaeological Park is Ta Prohm.

This ancient temple, whose stone courtyards and passageways are engulfed by intricate jungle root systems, became a tourist drawcard after starring with Angelina Jolie in 2001’s Lara Croft: Tomb Raider.

F U N FAC T Scenes at Ta Prohm were first envisioned for the Great Wall of China.

TA PR O H M

WORDS_ LEIGH LIVINGSTONE

H OBBITO N M OVIE SE T

T H E C H ECKL IS T

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T R AVEL T REN D S

Q U EE N SL A N D, A U S T R AL I A

GOLD COAST > A sub-tropical climate and varied landscapes provide a steady supply of picturesque settings, so it’s little wonder Hollywood flocks to the Gold Coast for big-budget productions.

The Spit in Southport doubled as a fishing village in Aquaman, while Palm Beach Currumbin State High became an American school in Dora the Explorer’s live-action Dora and the Lost City of Gold adventure.

F U N FAC T A sequel to Aquaman is in the works, with star Jason Momoa saying it’s likely to again be filmed in Queensland.

N S W, A U S T R AL I A

K UALOA R A N C H

LA PEROUSE, SYDNEY > The harbour city is the star attraction of Tom Cruise’s Mission: Impossible II with the movie filmed almost entirely at Sydney locations, including Royal Randwick racecourse and The Rocks. But it’s the thrilling motorcycle chase in and around heritage-listed Bare Island Fort in La Perouse and across its 130-year-old wooden bridge that fans remember.

F U N FAC T The producers approached authorities to see if they could actually blow up the bridge. As the answer was no – any damage you see is digital.

H A W A II, U S A

KUALOA RANCH, OAHU “TAKE A N AT V TO UR TO JURASSIC PARK’S FA M O US FALLEN TREE A N D M ARVEL AT G O DZILL A’S C OLO SSAL F O OTPRIN TS.”

SHIB U YA CR O S SIN G

> Described as “Hawaii’s Backlot”, the 1600 hectare Kualoa Ranch (kualoa.com), just 37 kilometres from Waikiki, has been a movie-making wonderland for some 65 years. Take an ATV tour to Jurassic Park’s famous fallen tree, marvel at Godzilla’s colossal footprints or pretend to flee from the Jumanji reboot’s jungle baddies. There are multitudes of other fun activities, from horseriding to kayaking to zip-lining, too.

F U N FAC T Godzilla’s footprints had to be filled in a bit as the ranch’s cows were falling in.

H O N S H U, JA PA N

SHIBUYA CROSSING, TOKYO > The must-visit scramble intersection depicted in director Sofia Coppola’s Lost in Translation is west of central Tokyo, outside the Hachiko exit of Shibuya Station. You could battle through the organised chaos like the film’s star Scarlett Johansson but the perfect spot to watch the bustle is actually the second floor of the nearby Starbucks.

F U N FAC T Sofia and a small crew sneakily shot footage of the crossing for the film through the window of the local Starbucks.

See Australia like never before, with a bird’s eye view of our most spectacular landscapes on the Southern Hemisphere’s first flying theatre.

Experience now dreamworld.com.au

10% OFF 3 DAY TICKETS Unlimited entry to Dreamworld, WhiteWater World and SkyPoint Observation Deck.

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TR AVEL H ACK

How to have the ultimate —Family get-togethers can be the best of times or the worst of times. Luckily, the experts

FOOD

D R INK S

Chef at Three Blue Ducks and father of two, Darren Robertson, is no stranger to big family get-togethers. He says successful festivities don’t require you to be an amazing cook. “Decide what you’re going to cook, don’t overcomplicate it and do what you can in advance so you can relax when everyone arrives,” he says.

Darren also recommends letting everyone help out – get kids picking herbs and adults peeling prawns or shucking oysters.

And when catering for a crowd, keep guests’ dietary needs in mind (such as no chilli for kids!).

Grazing tables are also a great way to cater to different requirements. According to Emily Brindley, co-owner of Sweet Bones vegan bakery and café, “Grazing tables look appealing but there’s minimal effort, and lots of things you can add to make it vegan, or gluten or nut free.

Appetisers like bruschetta, guacamole and hummus are all good examples of vegan dishes that everyone will love.”

Darren’s top tip for that Christmas essential – roast potatoes? “Boil them first in chicken stock instead of water. Then roast them in duck fat until golden. They will be epic!” he says.

Plan to serve a simple cocktail rather than just wine and beer to elevate the gathering. “Choose one signature cocktail you can prepare in advance in a bigger batch. Everyone loves an Aperol spritz,” says Mark Evangelista from glassware brand Plumm.

To cool wine, ice does a good job, and adding salt to the ice and water supercharges the cooling process. “About one tablespoon per ice bucket will do,” Mark suggests. “It’s a good hack based on science.”

He also recommends having some canapés ready for guests on arrival. “Everyone today loves a charcuterie board,” he says.

And don’t be afraid to mix it up. “A lighter style pinot noir works well with oysters or smoked salmon, and an aged riesling will offset the richness of your roast vegetables and the flavour of meats like turkey, chicken or ham,” says Christine Ricketts, cellar director and wine educator at Cellarmasters. “At hot pudding and brandy custard time, I love to add a chilled liquor muscat from the freezer.”

Regardless of the wines on offer, consider stemless glassware – it is versatile and less delicate. “It’s meant for wine but you can use it for other drinks like beer too,” Mark says.

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family festive gathering have simple tricks to help you take your next holiday gathering from stress to success—

DÉC O R

F R IE ND S + FA MILY

It’s easy to create a luxury look on a lean budget.

“Instead of balloons, bells or baubles, feature glass vases with all white flowers and green foliage only. Use gold candles for table centrepieces. Take your one Christmas motif, say a gold reindeer, and feature that on items such as paper plates, serviettes, place cards and decorative ornaments,” says Advantage Interior Design’s Luisa Volpato.

“For more wow factor when decorating, stick to no more than three key elements,” adds Luisa.

“Pick a colour scheme, limit your use of decorative items and stick to one main motif.”

Set up the room the night before so you’re less stressed on the day.

“If you have smaller round tables, set up different stations for mains, desserts and drinks in different parts of the room,” adds Luisa. “And ensure you have areas dedicated for people like Grandma who prefer to sit to eat, while keeping free space for others to stand and mingle,” she says.

“There’s so much expectation when family haven’t seen each other for a while. That can be a recipe for disaster,” says Matt Garrett from Relationships Australia. “Plan beforehand what you want from your Christmas and then cut your expectations in half,” he says.

Avoid the obvious conversational minefields: politics, religion, money and the housing market and if you see an issue coming your way, act fast.

“This isn’t the time to make up with a long lost cousin or have that long needed conversation.

Either move on by distracting people or stepping outside: invite people for a game of cricket or a walk,” says Matt.

And if you think a family event will be difficult, gather somewhere outside of the home, such as at a hotel. “People tend to be a little bit better behaved if they are out in public. The cost is probably worth it,” adds Matt.

When it comes to navigating a “modern family” Christmas, family lawyer and author Rebekah Mannering advises to keep the focus on the kids.

“If it’s a new family unit, make your own traditions, including some that are just yours with the kids,” she says. “Try to look at it as a time of renewal and growth.”

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S M AR TER W ORK IN G

Reverse mentoring —In each issue, we explore a new trend in the 21st century world of business. This month we look at the modern way to mentor—

W H AT IS I T ? When you think of traditional mentoring you probably visualise a senior executive passing years of hard-won wisdom to an eager junior who’s desperate to make it to the top. But in a world where schoolkids can have a better grasp of technology than CEOs, the trend of younger professionals mentoring their superiors is growing in popularity. And it’s not just about upskilling the boss in the use of Twitter or Instagram. A 2018 Ernst & Young study found that 90 per cent of Gen Z workers valued human contact and collaboration at work and may be able to teach the old dogs some new tricks in these areas. “Reverse mentoring can create a culture of human connection and make people feel part of not just the latest tech success story but a bigger tribe working to make the world a better place for their customers,” says Lucy Lloyd, CEO of Australian mentoring software company Mentorloop (mentorloop.com).

T W O -WAY S T R E E T

Reverse mentoring doesn’t need to be formal or even one-way. It can happen as part of a traditional top-down mentoring partnership, a concept Lloyd calls “reciprocal” mentoring.

The key to this two-way exchange is communication – each party has to be willing to listen and learn. “It’s not an ideal approach to tell a group of experienced, tenured people that they have gaps or weaknesses!” Lloyd says. Instead, a two-way mentoring program should emphasise that everyone, no matter how green or how seasoned, benefits from lifelong learning.

M A S T E R S O C I A L ME D I A

As of November 2018, 69 of Australia’s top 100 corporate leaders had no LinkedIn or Twitter presence, according to media intelligence company Isentia. But there are many ways to address this digital deficiency. For example, in 2015, ANZ bank senior executives took part in a ‘social media ambassador’ program, where techsmart juniors taught them the intricacies of connecting with social audiences. Thanks to his schooling from the cool kids, ANZ CEO Shayne Elliott now has over 54,000 LinkedIn connections and 9000 Twitter followers.

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S M AR T ER W O RK IN G

Nick Molnar

IN TERV IE W

AG E 29 O C C U PAT IO N C O-F O U N DER A N D C HIEF RE V EN U E OFFICER OF A U S T R AL I A N FIN T EC H C O MPA N Y AF T ERPAY. L O C AT IO N M OL N A R M O S TLY W O RKS BE T W EEN T H E C O MPA N Y’S N E W YO RK A N D S A N FR A N CIS C O OFFICES.

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> How did you get where you are today? I always had an entrepreneurial spirit. In my teens I convinced my dad to jump on a plane to Vegas to talk a US jewellery brand into letting me sell their product in Australia. It became the most successful jewellery brand on Australian eBay. From there I began mulling over an idea for a business where a customer can take home a product today and pay for it in instalments. My neighbour Ant Eisen and I launched Afterpay together in 2014. > How exactly does Afterpay work? Afterpay allows customers to pay for products and services (including Jetstar flights) in interest-free, fortnightly instalments. It can be used both for online and in-store purchases. Afterpay pays the retailers outright, so if a customer defaults on a payment they are not able to use the platform again until their payments are up to date. > How do you maintain boundaries between work and personal time? Given we are a global company there is always someone online I could be slacking with so I have to be mindful about putting the phone or laptop down. Breakfast with my daughter and wife is a time to connect with the most important people in my life. > What are the top three gadgets you can’t live without?

My iPhone, Bose noise-cancelling headphones and Apple Watch. > What are the workplace values of Afterpay? We’re a family at Afterpay, so working collectively is how we succeed; we have openplan offices with lots of natural light. We’re unashamedly customercentric and we only settle for extraordinary. > What was the last thing you bought with Afterpay? A shirt from The Iconic (theiconic.com.au). > Can you share some of your top success hacks? Look at failure as a way to learn. Don’t take no for an answer – you have to be relentless, especially as an entrepreneur. And back yourself. If you don’t believe in yourself or your idea, no one else will.

N A ME NICK M OL N A R

NICK’S T O P T IP S F O R A SPIR IN G EN T REPRENEU R S 1. Keep devices out of meetings. It’s a way to show respect to everyone in the team by giving your undivided attention.

2. Don’t think you have to get a ‘real’ job straight out of uni.

If I could go back I’d have charged on with being an entrepreneur from day one.

3. Enjoy the ride and have fun among the chaos but stay authentic and humble.

T H E C H ECKL IS T

TEC H N OL O GY

Update —Gear, apps, tech talk and more— iPhone 11 Pro Max

$174 9

> Just when you thought a new iPhone couldn’t surprise you anymore, the hot new Pro Max drops. Its bright display and advanced processor make for a very capable pocket camera – you can capture every moment as you want it on the ultra-wide, wide and telephoto lenses, with advanced AI improving light and clarity of night-time photography.

Action fans can shoot 4K video at 60fps or in ultra slow-motion, then edit and share straight from their phones. apple.com

Telstra Locator

$10 M O N T HLY

> We’ve all been there – forgotten keys, runaway gear and, God forbid, misplaced luggage. Enter these new wireless tags from Telstra that let you track and locate your valuables from any smart device with a synced app. A starter pack comes with two Bluetooth trackers which attach easily to any small item and the batteries last up to 12 months, and one Wi-Fi tracker, which is great for larger items. The devices are free with a monthly subscription. telstra.com.au

WORDS_ MARK GAMBINO

Ultimate Ears Boom 3 $20 0

> If 360-degree sound and pounding bass isn’t enough for you, you can connect more than 150 of these wireless speakers to create a booming music concert anywhere you go – in the bedroom, the backyard or at the beach. For a personal touch, log on to the website to create custom art for your new speaker including fabric, colours and patterns. ultimateears.com

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T EC H N OL O GY

M UST-HAVE

APPS

B U YERS’ G UIDE

Wireless earbuds > When it comes to lightweight, portable listening devices, nothing beats a pair of wireless earbuds.

While wired earbuds use a cable to connect to your smart device, wireless ones connect over Bluetooth.

There are a number of ways earbuds can fasten in or around each ear – such as clips, bands or rubber ear inserts – so choose the most appropriate for your desired comfort. If you’re moving around a lot, a tether wire between earbuds can prevent them from falling away if jostled free.

Battery life is a big consideration to keep in mind. You can fast charge many via USB cable but a lot now come with a battery caddy to juice up your buds when they’re not in use.

For fitness fans, the IP (Ingress Protection) rating will tell you the level of dust and water resistance.

Check the box to make sure you get the right gear for your chosen sport.

Some earbuds are also designed specifically for music fans and feature high-quality audio processor chips, noise cancelling and large internal audio drivers for that big, bass-y sound.

Join the fold

Bumble BFF

3 to try... #1 SONY WF-1000XM3

$399 These wire-free earbuds pack Sony’s famous noise-cancelling audio technology, allowing you to focus on just the music. The cutting-edge digital audio processor and powerful drivers provide an impressive soundstage, making you feel like you’re right there, with the band. sony.com.au

#2 JABRA EVOLVE 65T $605 The Evolve 65t is a professional earbud solution with multiple microphones offering improved clarity and noise cancellation, making it ideal for voice calls.

They can also go for up to five hours without a recharge. jabra.com.au #3 BEOPL AY E6 MOTION $399 Love to sweat it out? These earbuds come with customisable ear tips for a comfy fit. The great battery life make them perfect for long runs or touring on your bike, with the wired tether ensuring you never lose a bud. bang-olufsen.com

> Your personal smart devices are about to get much more convenient and easier to carry thanks to foldable screens. Across smartphones, tablets and laptops, these ‘transformer’ devices will come with bright, high-definition OLED multi-touch displays that fold out to give you more screen space and functionality.

PC manufacturer Lenovo is set to release a foldable laptop computer in 2020 that you can use as a normal laptop, a tablet or hold upright, folded like a book. Samsung and Huawei have also announced folding smartphones – the Galaxy Fold and Mate X – for release soon.

IO S + A N DR OID Bumble’s unique BFF function is safe, creep-free and purely focused on making friends.

You can connect to people in a new city and introduce travel buddies into your friendship group with the free app.

Set up your profile, select your interests and connect to social services such as Instagram to find people who dig the same stuff. bumble.com/bff

App in the Air IO S + A N DR OID This easy-to-use app will manage all your air travel details in one place. Once you’ve imported your trip info, you can check flight details, track expenses and book other services. You receive alerts when flight details alter – like changes to your terminal, departure gate, or delays or cancellations – so you needn’t break a sweat before your flight. appintheair.mobi

Designed in Melbourne, shoes feature built-in comfort li s that will boost your height and improve your posture.

Join over 100,000 men, including CEOs, models and grooms who stand taller with .

BROUGHT TO YOU BY JETSTAR CAR HIRE AND HERTZ

Drive the Ocean Road your way T O R Q U AY

HOW TAKE A WEEKEND ROAD TRIP WITH HERTZ WHERE THE GREAT OCEAN ROAD, VICTORIA WHY DISCOVER HIDDEN SPOTS OFF THE TOURIST PATH YOU’LL FIND ICONIC LANDMARKS, SECLUDED BEACHES AND JAW-DROPPING SCENERY TOTAL DRIVING DISTANCE 243KM

> Despite being one of the most popular drives in

Australia, the magnificent Great Ocean Road still holds many secrets. This year marks 100 years since construction commenced on one of the world’s most iconic self-drive routes.

Begin in Torquay, stopping for a coffee (and a pistachio croissant) at Sticks and Stones café (fb.me/sticksandstonescafe), then pop into the Australian National Surfing Museum (fb.me/ANSMTorquay), the world’s biggest surfing and beach culture museum. You’re guaranteed to see kangaroos grazing and lazing at the Anglesea Golf Club, but away from the crowds is the rugged Anglesea Heathland Cliff Walk where koalas, echidnas and wallabies are often found along the coastal, eucalyptus-lined trail.

Continue to Lorne for lunch at the charming Swing Bridge Café and Boathouse (0423 814 770). Lovers of waterfalls are spoilt for choice in this region, so head to the popular Erskine Falls and Won Wondah Falls or the less busy cascades of Kalimna Falls. At the end of the day, settle into your uniquely Australian accommodation at The Boomerangs (theboomerangs.com), and as evening Car rental is offered by Hertz Group via Car Trawler. Jetstar doesn’t offer car rental directly. For full terms and conditions please visit jetstar.com/au/en/holidays-bookingconditions. Hertz Terms and Conditions apply on all Hertz rentals.

ANGLESEA GOLF CLUB PORT C A MPBELL T W ELV E APOSTLES

WON WONDAH FALLS MELBA G U L LY T H E BOOMERANGS

LORNE

BASS STRAIT

falls, head to Melba Gully to see glow-worms twinkling in the lush rainforest.

Rise early to catch the first golden rays of light hit the Twelve Apostles. From the viewing platform you’ll also see fairy penguins waddling out from the cliffs to the ocean. The lesser known Bay of Martyrs and Bay of Islands with their striking rock formations and jagged coastline are quiet spots to take in the area’s raw majesty.

Gourmands can then head to Port Campbell for the 12 Apostles Gourmet Food Trail (12apostlesfoodartisans. com.au), taking in local producers of cheese, whisky, chocolate, ice-cream, beer and berries.

It’s a little known fact that servicemen returning from WWI built this dramatic cliff-hugging road. From history to new sights and stops, a road trip along The Great Ocean Road continues to surprise.

Check out the great range of Hertz cars and deals available at JETSTAR.COM/CARHIRE Or present your Jetstar boarding pass at the Hertz counter to receive 10% off today’s rates.

T H E C H ECKL IS T

T R AVEL NE W S

In the know —The latest buzz on where to play, stay and holiday—

A R T S FES T I VAL

Peace project Marking 40 years since the fall of the Khmer Rouge in Cambodia, the Arts4peace Festival (14-24 November) in Phnom Penh celebrates the country’s rich culture. Organised by Cambodian Living Arts, a non-profit dedicated to reviving Cambodia’s artistic heritage, the festival includes concerts, workshops and an exhibition but the highlight is Bangsokol: A Requiem for Cambodia, a performance piece about the traumas of the late 1970s. Special tour packages for the festival are available. arts4peace.cambodianlivingarts.org

N E W H O T EL

WORDS_ DEBORAH GRUNFELD

Spellbinding What better way to enjoy the magic of Malaysia then by basing yourself at a hotel inspired by the illusionists of the Victorian age? In the heart of Penang’s historic Georgetown, the newly opened The Prestige hotel promises more than meets the eye.

While the stylish décor harks back to the colonial era, there are whimsical details dotted around the 162 rooms and suites, such as “levitating” beds, hidden doors and even a custom shower emulating magician Harry Houdini’s famous escape box. Less oblique but just as magical is the rooftop infinity pool with beautiful views of the quay. theprestige.my

FA MILY

Child’s play Marriott’s “Family by JW” program makes staying at hotels with kids even more fun. The program, which has been rolled out in various hotels across the Asia Pacific region, includes bonuses such as toys and craft equipment, in-room check-in plus special tours and activities from boating to cooking classes. jwmarriottfamily.com

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T R AVEL NE W S

T HIS J U S T IN

A fresh take on tacos > Brisbane’s food scene gets an almighty injection of authenticity with Baja, a Fortitude Valley restaurant defined by arched doorways, terracotta tables and a pop of cacti. Consultant chef Julio Aguilera taps into his Northern Mexican heritage with beer-battered fish tacos, twice-cooked octopus and king fish ceviche in Habanero coconut milk. To drink? A Baja Margarita made with imported craft tequila. bajamodernmexican.com

Where to find Australia’s best secret beaches —How’s the serenity! If you prefer hidden to hotspot and don’t mind a bit of trek to get there, these remote stretches of sand are heavenly—

01.

02.

03.

04.

> MYALL BEACH CAPE TRIBULATION, QUEENSLAND

> STORE BEACH SYDNEY,NSW

> SQUEAKY BEACH WILSONS PROMONTORY, VIC

> WHITES BEACH BYRON BAY, NSW

World heritage rainforest meets world heritage reef on a pristine beach, accessed by a short walk... or horseback! capetribhorse rides.com.au

A breeding ground for little penguins (aka fairy penguins), this secluded harbour spot near Manly is only accessible by boat or kayak. manlykayak centre.com.au

It’s the round quartz grains of sand that create the sound that gives this place its cute name.

Stay for sunset over the granite boulders.

A dirt road, lack of parking and facilities and tricky access through bush ensure this idyllic Broken Head beach, with its aquamarine waters, is off the tourist trail.

Greener pastures > As the weather warms, the call of nature deepens, so head outdoors with eco-camping brand Zorali, a sustainable-ethos company that plants 10 trees for every purchase.

There’s everything from designer kettles and pack-and-carry fireplaces to practical essentials like sleeping bags, rain jackets and this water-resistant Keep Safe case (above). zorali.com

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T HE C HECKL IS T

C ALEN DAR

The Gourmet Village

NOVEMBER

16-17.11.19

Spend the perfect weekend in WA’s foodie haven sampling the offerings of 150 local producers and wineries.

Just one of the unmissable events that make up the 10-day Western Australia Gourmet Escape festival. gourmetescape.com.au

NO MATTER WHERE YOU ARE THIS MONTH, THERE’S PLENTY TO ENJOY...

TENNIS

PERTH Federal Cup 09-10.11.19

Watch as Australian tennis stars Ashleigh Barty, Samantha Stosur, Daria Gavrilova and others take on France’s best in the 2019 Federal Cup final. fedcup.com

THEATRE

SYDNEY

U2 The Joshua Tree Tour 2019 The Irish rock band, led by singer Bono, kicks off its nationwide Australian tour, belting out all the tunes from the 1987 hit album. The group will also perform in Melbourne, Adelaide, Sydney and Perth. u2.com

MUSIC

12.11.19

BRISBANE

School of Rock, The Musical 08.11.19

The whole family will enjoy this Andrew Lloyd Webber musical about a musician who leads a bunch of straight-A students to the Battle of the Bands. au.schoolofrockthemusical.com

MARGARET RIVER

FOODIE

HORSE RACING

MELBOURNE

T H E RE’S A D AY F O R T H AT ?!

Melbourne Cup 05.11.19

At exactly 3pm, all eyes nationwide will be on ‘the race that stops the nation’ at Flemington Racecourse. flemington.com.au

Color the World Orange Day 04.11.19

COMEDY

SYDNEY Just for Laughs All-Star Gala 02.11.19

Laugh your heart out as comedians Dave Hughes, John Cleese, Wil Anderson and others spin their best jokes and anecdotes for one night of glorious entertainment. justforlaughs.sydney ENTERTAINMENT

ADEL AIDE

International Tongue Twister Day 10.11.19

World Kindness Day 13.11.19

Supanova Comic Con & Gaming 01–03.11.19

Children will have bundles of fun watching Emma, Lachy, Simon, Anthony and friends wiggle their way through classic and newbie hits hot from their recent album Party Time! thewiggles.com.au

CHILDREN

Stand in silence for one minute at 11am to commemorate all those who’ve suffered or died fighting to protect this nation’s freedoms in times of war or armed conflict. awm.gov.au

21.11.19

30.11.19 – 01.12.19

National Remembrance Day 11.11.19

World Television Day

The Wiggles, Party Time! Big Show!

ADEL AIDE

CANBERRA

COMMEMORATION

Go incognito as your favourite villain or superhero at this three-day event attended by actors John Travolta and Billy Zane. supanova.com.au

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the traveller > WHERE TO GO NEXT

SECRE T ISL A N D S PA G E

0 48 TO N G AR IR O

PA G E

06 0

> The New Zealand national park has dual World Heritage status: natural (awarded in 1990) and cultural (in 1993).

BAL I

PA G E

072

> In mainly Muslim Indonesia, all religious leaders are paid by the government, including the Hindu priests of Bali.

H OI A N

PA G E

078

> They sell snake wine in the city’s night markets. Long touted as a medical tonic, it can be toxic, so resist tasting.

Ps s

t ..

a c .

o y n

s a e p cret? e e k u

—We reveal the islands of Asia where you can explore deserted beaches, hidden waterfalls

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and life off-grid, before the rest of the world does. Just promise not to tell anyone—

LOCATION TRAT PROVINCE, EASTERN THAIL AND AREA 105 K M 2 POPUL ATION 2,118

KOH KOOD

SECRE T ISL A N D S

“R A IN P U M MELS T HE R O OF. WI T H A BELLY FULL OF FISH C URRY, I SLEEP L IKE A N A N AEST HE T ISED BE AR.”

051

I’m walking on a beach, a dimpled expanse of white sand squeaking beneath my toes. The shore is fringed by palm trees and nibbled by the turquoise waters of the Gulf of Thailand. I stop for a second to savour the moment, gleeful that I have this impossible perfection all to myself.

Koh Kood, also known as Ko Kut, is the Thailand of decades past – a jungle-clad tropical paradise sequestering deserted beaches and traditional fishing villages yet to be consumed by mass tourism. The island, off the far south-east corner of mainland Thailand, is geographically and stylistically about as far as you can get from Phuket; an oar splash from Cambodia.

Although just 25km long and about 12km wide, it is Thailand’s fifth-largest island, and about a 60-minute ferry ride from Trat. There’s one main undulating road, squeezed between the jungle, and only a handful of hotels and guesthouses, mostly clustered on the west coast around the powdery white sands of Klong Chao Beach.

Slightly inland, the Klong Jao River lures me upstream with the promise of a hidden waterfall. Scrambling over boulders, mud and frothing cascades, I arrive: the main cascades of Klong Chao waterfall tumble from a rock face into a large forest-fringed pool, its cool waters inviting me to jump into them.

Post swim, I’ve worked up an appetite so I head to Ao Salat fishing village. Macaques scrabble at the roadside as I step onto a rickety wooden walkway flanked by homes on stilts and colourful fishing boats. Most of Koh Kood’s 2000-odd residents eke out a living off the sea, fishing the bountiful waters that encircle the island. I peer into huge submerged nets alive with oysters and grouper and see great tubs wriggling with crustaceans. Seafood doesn’t get any fresher.

Nearby, the 20-metre high golden Buddha atop Ao Salad temple glints in the sunlight and is as awe-inspiring as its resident wax-moulded monk; so lifelike I can see the stubble protruding from his scalp.

I don’t have to go far to find my accommodation – charming eco resort Cham’s House (chamshouse.com), at the end of a dirt road on the island’s south-west corner.

In the evening I submit to an exercise in limb and muscle contortion with a traditional Thai massage while rain pummels the roof. With a belly full of fish curry, I sleep like an anaesthetised bear.

The next morning, even though it’s raining, I head back into the water – this time for a swim in the hotel pool, a soup bowl-like basin overlooking the Klong Hin Beach. Fat globules of water drop from leaves against a chorus of barking frogs. That’s the soundtrack of Koh Kood. – CB

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SECRE T ISL A N D S

VIETNAM

NAM DU Limited access for foreigners kept this emerald isle under the radar but restrictions have now been removed. Part of an archipelago of pristine islands in the Gulf of Thailand, this lush tropical Eden is a great base for island-hopping, while its tiny size (nine square kilometres) makes it easy to explore on motorbike or scooter. Most beaches are pebbly but Bai Cay Men comes straight out of a postcard, with white sand lapped by an azure sea – and you can even camp here. Whales are worshipped as ocean deities on the island, so check out the whale skeleton at Dinh Nam Hai Ngu Than temple. Accommodation is mostly of the budget persuasion and fills up on the weekends, so try to come mid-week.

ULLEU NG D O

SOU TH KOREA

NAM D U

“T HE RE WARD S? EXQ UISI TE SCENERY, FAB ULO US SN ORKELL IN G A N D T HE C H A N CE TO SWIM W I T H M A N TA R AYS.”

ULLEUNGDO Described as South Korea’s Jurassic Park, this mystical island measures just 72 square kilometres but soars to a height of almost 1000 metres and boasts glorious forests and jutting shores. Although it isn’t a secret to nature-loving South Koreans drawn to its sacred spirit, the island’s far-flung location in the East Sea has kept it pristine and concessions to foreign tourism are few.

Forget lolling around in a bikini, it’s not that kind of place.

Instead book a hotel or homestay, get your hiking boots on and hit the spectacular Haengnam Coastal Walking Path, which clings to the cliffs. For stunning bird’s-eye views, climb the volcanic peak of Seonginbong (five hours return) or take a more leisurely cable car ride to Dokdo Island Observatory. A boat tour around the island is also sure to leave you spellbound.

TEMBEL ING, N USA PENIDA

INDONESIA

N USA PENIDA

NUSA PENIDA In spite of Bali’s unwavering popularity, this island – just a 30-minute boat ride away – has remained untouched; a place of raw and rugged beauty with soaring limestone cliffs dipping to gorgeous coves with evocative names like Crystal Bay. Penida was traditionally a place of exile, both for convicts and the mythological demon king Mecaling and its haunted reputation kept tourism at bay. But change is in the air and rugged adventures await those looking for something wilder than a debauched night in a Bali nightclub. Ghosts aside, Penida is not for the unfit or faint-hearted. Getting into Goa Giri Putri temple means crawling through a cave, while travelling anywhere else involves treacherous roads and traversing steep cliffs via hundreds of steps. The rewards? Exquisite scenery, fabulous snorkelling and the chance to swim with manta rays.

Looking up from my book as I gently sway in a hammock strung up just by the beach, I see a wooden cart pulled by a water buffalo rumbling along the nearby dirt road, kicking up a cloud of sand. To my right, a local islander lazily strums his guitar as he sits under a cluster of trees, sheltering from the midday heat and to my left, a couple walk down the beach towards the sun-dappled ocean, snorkels in hand.

I’m idling my day away on, believe it or not, the Taketomi Island of Japan. Part of the Okinawa archipelago in the south of the country, the island bears little resemblance to fast-forward life on the mainland.

A speck of sand surrounded by coral reefs and housing a population of only about 350 locals, Taketomi is a time capsule of old-school Japanese islander tradition and untouched natural splendour. If you’re dreaming of peace, tranquility and seclusion in a picturesque setting of crystal-clear blue seas and dazzling white sand, then this is the place.

Three hours by plane from Tokyo to Ishigaki and then a quick 10-minute ferry ride away, travelling to this almost six-square-kilometre slice of paradise is akin to stepping back in time.

KO ND OI C OR AL BEACH, TAKE TO MI ISL AND

STAR-SHAPED SHELLS O N K AIJI BEACH

LOCATION OKINAWA, JAPAN AREA 5.42 K M 2 POPUL ATION 323

TAKETOMI

TAKE TO MI ISL AND

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Previously unknown to foreign visitors given its farflung location, life on the island goes on as it has for the last few centuries. Fishermen fish, farmers farm and the pace is as slow as the local form of transportation: bicycle or the aforementioned ambling water buffalo-drawn cart.

Beach bums will love the Maldives-like stretches of white sand and azure seas that are in abundance. Kaiji Beach (also called ‘Star Beach’) is especially noteworthy for its tiny star-shaped shells; while offshore, there’s untouched coral and an A to Z of marine life including manta rays and turtles.

There’s only a handful of accommodation options on the island and the most luxurious option is undoubtedly Hoshinoya Taketomi Island (hoshinoresorts.com). Designed to resemble a traditional island village, the maze of coral walls house a plush pool and high-end villas.

The islands are famous for another reason: the population here is among the longest living in the world with the highest number of centenarians in Japan, attributed to the laidback local lifestyle and diet. Who knows, you might come home feeling 10 years younger? – PE

“BE AC H B U MS W ILL LOVE T HE M AL DI VES-L IKE STRE TC HES OF W HI TE SA N D A N D A ZURE SE AS T H AT ARE IN AB U N DA N CE.”

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CAMBODIA

KOH RONG SANLOEM Ever wondered what Thai beaches were like 20 years ago? You’ll find the answer here. Bobbing in the Gulf of Thailand, the crescent-shaped island is about 25 kilometres west of Sihanoukville and accessed via a 45-minute ferry (speedferrycambodia.com). Once the site of a Khmer Rouge military base, the island has shed its dark past and, today, it’s all sun-kissed sand, turquoise water and a chilled vibe. No two days are alike: cycle through the jungle, bathe under waterfalls, seek out the bioluminescent plankton after dark – or just glue yourself to the beach. Most travellers plop down on the eastern Saracen Bay, thanks to its proximity to the main pier. Venture west to Lazy Beach or Sunset Beach for a more remote day out – not to mention sorbet sunsets. Cars, Wi-Fi and ATMs are foreign concepts here, so set your out-of-office reply and explore the island before everyone else catches on.

“CARS, W I-FI A N D AT MS ARE F OREIG N C O N CEPTS HERE, S O SE T YO UR O U T-OF-OFFICE REPLY A N D EXPLORE T HE ISL A N D BEF ORE E VERYO NE ELSE CATC HES O N.”

THAIL AND

KOH MAK White, unspoiled beaches. Tick. Lush palm trees and jungle. Tick. No crowds. Tick. Koh Mak in the east of the country is the embodiment of all your Cast Away fantasies. Accessed by boat from Laem Ngop or (in season) Koh Chang, Koh Wai and Koh Kood, Koh Mak remains one of the least-developed Thai destinations and its quiet, laidback charms contrast vividly with the partyhard vibe of big cousin Phuket. Instead, the infinitely more low-key activities here range from cycling on one of the relatively new tracks around the island, snorkelling in the national marine park or simply blissing out with a book in a hammock strung up between one of the 10,000 or so palm trees. Accommodation-wise, digs on this island are mostly small so it’s best to book for high season (November through March) before catching the ferry.

T HE 360 O N...

Busselton @PHIL IPPK A HRER

—With a world-famous jetty, an underwater observatory and a forest you can ride through on a unicycle, the WA town of Busselton is bursting with surprises—

E XPL O RE

Take the plunge

SEE

Join the jetty set > The town’s landmark 154-year-old wooden jetty juts 1841 metres out into Geographe Bay. If you don’t feel like walking to the end, jump on board the solar-powered red train (fun fact: it provided the inspiration for Japanese director Hayao Miyazaki in his famous film Spirited Away).

On the journey to the end of the world’s second-longest timber-piled jetty you’ll have the chance to see bottlenose dolphins and humpback whales as well as local anglers pulling in their catch (busseltonjetty.com.au).

WILLO W BRID GE ES TATE

> Eight metres below the water’s surface at the end of the jetty, the Underwater Observatory is a natural aquarium with 11 viewing windows set at different depths looking onto Australia’s greatest artificial coral reef that has sprung up among the jetty’s piles.

Feel like getting even closer to more than 300 species of marine life calling the deep sea home?

Book in for the Underwater Helmet Walk and explore this aquatic forest on a tour beneath the water (busseltonjetty.com.au).

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MORE TO KNOW

HANG 10 > Fittingly, Busselton has its own champion of the waves in Taj Burrow. The retired pro surfer runs WA’s most prestigious junior surfing event, Taj’s Small Fries, each January at nearby Yallingup.

PL AY

Savour the sunset

T HE G O O SE

> The soft sand and calm, shallow waters of Busselton beach make it perfect for families. From December 21, the Aquatastic waterplay park (aquatastic. net) adds to the fun with huge inflatables for sliding, climbing and bouncing in a patrolled section of the water. For fun of a more grown-up kind, enjoy the magnificent sunset with a drink at The Goose beachfront bar and restaurant (thegoose.com.au).

CLIP AND ZIP > As well as a zip-line course, Forest Adventures lets you unicycle through the treetops of the Ludlow Tuart Forest – plus there’s a 13-metre base jump for daredevils (forestadventures.com.au).

DRINK

> The Geographe wine region has a fast-growing reputation for chardonnay, shiraz and emerging Spanish and Italian grape varieties that flourish in the mild Mediterranean climate. Taste the terroir at cellar doors including Capel Vale (capelvale.com.au), Thomson Brook (thomsonbrookwines.com.au) and Willow Bridge Estate (willowbridge.com.au), or simply kick back with a beer in the centre of Busselton at Rocky Ridge Brewing Co (rockyridgebrewing.com.au).

JETSTAR WILL FLY TO BUSSELTON FROM MARCH 2020. TICKETS ON SALE NOW.

SPOT A POSSUM > See the endangered western ringtail possums on the Possum Night Spotlight Trail, a 1.5-kilometre walk in the Tuart Forest National Park, 10km east of Busselton. BYO torch (parks.dpaw.wa.gov.au park/tuart-forest).

WORDS_ LARISSA DUBECKI

Raise a toast

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A DVEN T U RE

—For Laura Waters, who has walked the entire length of New Zealand – a 3000km journey that would change her life forever – hiking the ruggedly beautiful Tongariro Alpine Crossing was an inspiring prelude—

THE FIRST TIME I truly understood the power of nature was when I walked the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. Melting spring snow settled in the dips and folds of the volcanic cones that rose like giants from the vast desert floor, while fractured crystal spears glistened on the rivulets of frozen water next to my boots. The sun shone brilliantly from the azure sky but it was bereft of warmth, and the wind – icy and unforgiving – blew straight in from the Antarctic. I keenly felt my own fragility in the forbidding landscape.

At the time, an idea had already seeded in my mind to walk the entire length of New Zealand, from the top of the North Island to the bottom of the South, a 3000 kilometre route – 19 of which would lead me over the Tongariro Alpine Crossing on the central North Island.

My day hike of the Crossing was to be a reconnaissance of sorts and I excitedly shared my bold plan with a fellow walker. But after a few hours immersed in the intimidating terrain on the hike my confidence in the idea withered to something far more subdued.

About 130,000 people tackle the Crossing each year, having been drawn by its dramatic and other-worldly formations, and it’s often regarded as one of the country’s best one-day walks.

Tongariro was New Zealand’s first national park, established in 1887, and the world’s fourth. Part of the Pacific Rim of Fire, it spans a massive complex of volcanoes and craters that, like a curmudgeonly old man, steam and puff and occasionally erupt in spectacular fashion.

“I T WAS A SH O CK TO M Y SYSTEM TO EXPERIEN CE SU C H U NBRIDLED P O WER U NLE ASHED ALL AR O U N D

During an eruption near midnight on August 6, 2012, Te Maari Crater blew a rock the size of a microwave oven at 200kph through the roof of nearby Ketetahi Hut, to land on a bunk – thankfully empty at the time. It occurred just two months before my visit.

And it would erupt again soon after.

In a world where so much is now controlled and contained, it was a shock to my system to experience such unbridled power unleashed all around me on the Crossing. The fringe of this epic walk is less than half an hour by bus from the cosy village of Whakapapa, a buzzing ski resort in winter. Yet once on the Crossing the rules of life seem altered – the area becomes a place devoid of the safety nets I’d taken for granted elsewhere.

On that first hike of the Crossing I followed the orange marker poles arranged sporadically along the route. I traversed the vast plain of South Crater, towered over by Mt Tongariro and Mt Ngauruhoe. Only by looking back from the next climb could I grasp the overwhelming scale of it all. Other hikers appeared as a line of ants trailing across the crater floor, the path becoming but a distant scar upon the face of the earth.

Much of the Crossing spans a desert plateau at a height of between 1100 and 1886 metres. It is a moonscape of scoria (volcanic rock) scattered with twisted pyroclastic blocks. Rare pockets of colour are created by water filling extinct craters. Blue Lake nestles in the large crater at Mount Tongariro, while the three smaller Emerald Lakes are tinted so yellowy-green by minerals seeping from nearby Red Crater they almost glow of their own accord.

Altitude, erosion and regular dustings of volcanic debris mean that very litt le grows here. In winter the terrain is covered in snow and is the domain of mountaineers, and even in summer the average temperature hovers between five and 12 degrees. On the day I staggered across the rocky ground, endless blasts of crisp cold air from a deep freeze bit at my clenched fists until they turned red raw.

Gusty winds pushed and shoved my body as

I edged toward the lip of Red Crater to peer into its dark scoria mouth, tinged magnificent red from iron oxide. An exposed dyke through which magma once flowed had created a slit in the crater walls.

Regardless, the popular day hike receives a constant stream of people of all ages, some purportedly clutching handbags or even wearing heels. It didn’t seem reasonable that under such bluebird skies, and with other walkers surrounding me, I should feel so out of my depth and yet I did. In recent years, nearly 10 per cent of all tramping-related search and rescue incidents in the entire country have occurred on this one trail, with some walkers twisting ankles, getting lost in mist or simply running out of daylight. But it is largely an underestimation of the rigours of the trail and the elements that catches people out.

On that first hike, I was taking tentative baby steps down the northern flank of the trail when a jovial Kiwi hiker suddenly skipped past me in a pair of shorts. It was in that moment that I questioned whether I was in the league of those capable of walking the length of an entire country, especially one so wild and woolly. I kept slipping and sliding down the

@amandaroundtheglobe

ME O N T HE CR O SSIN G.”

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M O U N T NGAURU H OE

TO NGARIRO ALPINE CROSSING

1886 T H E H EIG H T OF RED C R AT ER I N M E T RES, W H IC H AL S O M A RK S T O N G A R IR O C R O S SI N G’S H IG H ES T P OI N T.

loose scoria that rolled like ball bearings under my feet, and I couldn’t imagine what it would be like to tackle it while carrying a full backpack laden with camping equipment.

Fourteen months later, I find out. It takes me 54 days to walk from Cape Reinga, at the northern-most tip of New Zealand’s North Island, to Tongariro. After 1100 kilometres, my battered backpack reflects the hardiness I feel in my mind. By now I’ve already faced endless beaches of soft sand, fought through tangled mossy forests, waded icy rivers and climbed endless hills and mountains. I’ve grown accustomed to the ways and moods of nature here, and I’ve learned that I must respect it because to underestimate it – to be complacent – could lead to a swift reprimand in the form of sudden wild weather changes.

Now, on my second traverse of the Crossing, low cloud hangs over the mountains like a heavy blanket. Within half an hour my fingers are numb and tiny white crystals form on the tips of my hair. Fumaroles leak wispy walls of steam from Te Maari Crater as I climb to the plateau, dreading the steep scoria of Red Crater that awaits me, but when the moment comes it doesn’t seem nearly so bad as I remembered. This time I feel as much at home as the bare-legged Kiwi that once jogged past me in shorts. Now it is I who is the experienced hiker amid a stream of day-trippers.

I hike 35 kilometres that day. It takes me 11 hours. As I trudge the next 1900 kilometres, I will face many more challenges: being literally blown over on an exposed ridge, hammered by a sudden snowstorm – in summer – and sleeping in a mountain valley so cold it turned my tent crispy white. I thought I could have snapped it in half like a corn chip.

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NE W ZE AL A N D

WALK T HE CROSSING

RED CR ATER

> Prepare Check the weather forecast before setting out. Sturdy footwear is essential, as are warm clothes, sunscreen and a windproof jacket. doc.govt.nz

JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O N E W ZE AL A N D.

S TAY > Chateau Tongariro Hotel Whakapapa’s premier hotel, built in 1929, sports grand architecture and is home to a luxe spa. chateau.co.nz > Skotel Alpine Resort

> Hike Allow about six to eight hours for the 19.4km route.

Though well formed, some sections of track are steep and rough. Carry all the water and food you’ll need for the day (minimum two litres per person, more in summer months).

This cosy lodge has backpacker and hotel rooms. The views of Mt Ngauruhoe from the restaurant’s bar and deck are legendary. skotel.co.nz > Whakapapa Holiday Park Settle in at campsites and cabins among shaded beech trees, moments from hiking trails. whakapapa.net.nz

JE T S TA R.C O M

@amandaroundtheglobe

After five months, 3000km and 10 kilos of chocolate I arrive at Bluff at the southern most point of the South Island a changed woman.

Nature’s power and unpredictability are what I love now. It has taught me resilience and courage and led me to discover my place in the universe. I still have the utmost respect for wild places and their whims but I’ve learnt to manage my vulnerability in the face of them.

Recently I returned to Tongariro with a British friend who had never visited. Together we walk the Crossing and I discover it all over again through his eyes. The wind is fresh but this time the only danger is in the sun that fries my friend’s face until it peels like a mottled tree trunk. As we linger on the rugged area’s high peaks and plains, I reflect on how they had borne witness to my evolution – from unsure woman to one who seizes life without fear.

The lessons learned in these wild places, with their meditative spaces far from the bustle of society, have fundamentally changed the course of my life. The confidence and clarity I gained on my journey led me to change my career, my outlook, my whole way of being.

Visitor numbers have almost doubled since I first stepped foot on the Crossing but that hasn’t made things any less intimidating or spectacular. Despite the hundreds of stairs that have been installed in places, and the camouflaged portaloos scattered across its route, Tongariro refuses to be tamed.

> Get there The Crossing is a oneway walk. Numerous operators will transfer you from Whakapapa to Mangatepopo to begin the hike and collect you again from the Ketetahi Road end. tongarirocrossingshuttles. co.nz

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We do not deliver to parcel lockers, and unfortunately due to rising delivery costs and current liquor laws are unable to deliver to the Northern Territory. If a wine becomes unavailable, a similar wine of equal or greater value will be supplied.

Glasses and deanter stock is limited and if either is unavailable will be substituted with a bottle of wine. If you are unhappy with the substitute we’ll refund you. One $110 gift card per household. Gift card not transferable for cash and cannot be used in conjunction with any other offers. $110 gift card saving is off normal retail prices of the reds case only as provided by the wineries. For full T&Cs and privacy policy go to winepeople.com.au/terms or call us on 1300 762 832. © 2019 Wine People Pty Ltd. LIQP770016550. Level 2, 407 Elizabeth Street, Surry Hills, NSW 2010. All rights reserved. It is against the law to sell or supply alcohol to, or obtain alcohol on behalf of, a person under the age of 18.

4 8 H O U RS O N

The Sapphire Coast

O N T HE PERC H

—From whale watching and bird-filled nature walks to gourmet meals and charming lighthouse accommodation, this jewel of the NSW far South Coast sparkles with appeal—

T HE W H ARF LO CAL

SAPPHIRE C OAS T

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EAS T W O OD’S DEL I A ND C O OK IN G SC H O OL

THE ULTIMATE HIT LIST...

Be enlightened Sitting high above the crashing waves of Disaster Bay on the headland, the Green Cape Lightstation (nationalparks.nsw. gov.au) is both eerily isolated and spectacularly beautiful. As well as the original 1883 lighthouse itself, the property contains three restored cottages filled with classical fixtures such as claw baths, wide wooden floorboards and open fireplaces (the cottages can be rented separately or together). There’s a good chance you’ll spot sea eagles, whales and seals from a distance, and meet Socks, the friendly wombat who roams the lighthouse grounds.

GREEN CAPE L IG H TS TATIO N

Cook like a local Maybe it’s a skill she learned when she worked with countless amateur cooks on shows including MasterChef and My Kitchen Rules, but Eastwood’s Deli and Cooking School (eastwoodsbermagui.com.au) owner Kelly Eastwood is tirelessly patient and cheerful with her students, even the ones who have barely boiled a pot of water. Her lively classes in Bermagui always use the freshest local ingredients like juicy Eden mussels or lemons that her electrician mate brings in from his back garden, and you’re encouraged to eat the lot at the end. Don’t fancy attending a cooking class? Pop in on a Saturday for one of their superfresh donuts.

L IG H T TO L IG H T WALK

Camp by the sea Even many locals don’t know about the remote, unpowered camp site at Mowarry Point which sits on its own sheltered ledge just above a pristine beach of the same name, surrounded by eucalypts, myrtle and banksia inside the Ben Boyd National Park. You’ll have to bring everything you need with you so it’s not for the fainthearted but the uninterrupted views of opal-blue ocean and, at the right time of year, pods of migrating whales make it worth the trek. The campsite is part of the Light To Light Walking Track (nationalparks.nsw. gov.au).

Make some feathered friends The southern cassowary bird doesn’t take kindly to being mated in captivity, with the female of the species known to kill the male with a swift kick from her razor-sharp claws.

Which is why bird-mad childhood sweethearts Steve and Linda Sass, who run the conservation-focused aviary On The Perch (ontheperch. com.au) in Tathra, are so proud of their pair of juvenile cassowary siblings Gorge and Adelaide. The chicks were born at a sanctuary in South Australia and now have pride of place here, along with other endangered species such as the black-throated finch, also known as the Adani Bird.

Have a whale of a time “I’ve seen whales come right up and have a scratch against the jetty posts,” says Emma Benton, who owns and runs the airy, flower-filled café and gallery The Wharf Local (thewharflocal.com.au), which sits inside a former cargo shed right on Tathra Wharf. During spring, mother and baby humpback whales – and even the occasional whale shark – swim so close to where diners are eating their sourdough toast, or sipping their flat whites, you can almost touch them. “You see it all from the humpbacks; breaching, playing, feeding,” says Emma. “I never get tired of watching them.”

And now for something different...

THE DEEP DIVE...

Take a tour with an oyster maverick > As I walk to the water’s edge to join Captain Sponge’s Magical Oyster Tour I’m struck by the still jade-green beauty of Pambula Lake, a 550-hectare waterway south of Merimbula.

There are two whirling dots in the air – a pair of white bellied sea-eagles circling silently on the horizon above the treeline.

And overriding all of it is The Rolling Stones blaring from Captain Sponge’s oyster punt.

“G’day!” says the Captain himself over the top of Mick Jagger as he helps our group aboard.

“Let’s go check out some oysters.”

Captain Sponge – ‘Sponge’ is a nickname from university, his real name is Brett Weingarth – is a kind of Oyster Dundee; all stubble and khaki and a stone necklace on a leather cord. A former sheep and wheat farmer, he’s been growing oysters on the Sapphire Coast for 12 years, and his two-hour tours of local oyster leases are considered legendary. His charisma and wry sense of humour make him the consummate Australian tour guide.

“I grow my oysters in Pambula, then I drive them up the road to Merimbula to finish them off up there,” he says. “They love a drive, oysters. They go mad for a seaside holiday.” His eyes narrow with mock derision when he talks about the rivalry between NSW South Coast oyster farmers and their North Coast counterparts, a standoff that would appear to be of Springfield vs Shelbyville proportions. But most of all, this is a man who knows and loves oysters. “I never get tired of them,” he insists. “A really bloody good oyster is the best thing in the world.”

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CAP TAIN SP O N GE’S L IS T OF SAPPHIRE C OAS T M US T-D O S

T H E S APP HIRE C OA S T

W H AT Find out how oysters are grown under the guidance of a colourful local character on Captain Sponge’s Magical Oyster Tours. magicaloystertours.com.au

HIG HL IG H TS You haven’t tasted oysters until you’ve tasted them fresh from a lake.

H A NDY HIN T Sponge’s boat is covered but on a hot day, sun will reflect from the water. Don’t forget your sunscreen.

PRICE Adults: $70; Children 5-16: $30; Families: $180; Under 5s: free.

Shortly after our tour begins Sponge switches off the Stones and lets us enjoy the pristine perfection of the lake. We scuttle along quietly as he points out the long, black rows of oyster leases just underneath the lake’s surface and explains how they’re grown. Why, I ask, are the oysters around here so good? Why the Sapphire Coast? Why Pambula Lake? “We’ve got a small population and less people means less pollution,” he says shrugging. “It’s just really clean.”

As if to prove the point, Sponge unveils a tray of around 35 oysters that he had pulled from one of his leases shortly before we boarded.

They’re dressed with nothing more than a squeeze of lemon and a sprinkle of pepper. I try one, and they taste like nature distilled: creamy, salty, minerally and absolutely fresh. One of our group is an oyster sceptic but even she agrees that these complex little bivalves are heaven in a half shell.

The tour concludes with a short trip up the Pambula River where Sponge points out the ancient Aboriginal oyster shell middens that line the shore, thought to be around 4000 years old.

We gaze at an enormous wedge-tailed eagle nest perched high in the fork of a gum tree. And we keep eating oysters. It’s a pretty special way to spend an afternoon. “You must love this life, working out here every day?” I ask Sponge. He thinks for a moment. “Well, work impinges a bit on my surfing time,” he says dryly. “But other than that it’s not bad at all.”

GIVE

PEACE A CHANCE

FEW THINGS ARE AS PRECIOUS AS PEACE OF MIND. WE SEEK OUT THE BEST WELLNESS RETREATS THAT HAVE BEEN CAREFULLY DESIGNED TO HELP YOU FIND INNER CALM AND STILLNESS.

THE INNER PEACE RETREAT @ SAMADHI SPA AND WELLNESS RETREAT

> Providing the perfect antidote to the fast pace of city life, this boutique retreat in Victoria’s spa country is inspired by the notion that stillness is essential to rediscovering and nurturing peace within. The program includes relaxing massages, LifeShaping therapy and gentle breathing practices to still your mind and emotions. Bubbling brooks, scenic mountain ranges and therapeutic hot springs rising from a 450-million-year-old volcanic basin provide an idyllic backdrop. samadhiretreat.com.au

BALI SILENT RETREAT

> The path to peace is a blissfully silent one at this rustic green-to-the-extreme eco retreat set amidst glistening rice paddies, lush banana trees and palm groves. With an ashram-like ambience – minus the austerity – there is no talking and no devices here. That leaves you free to truly embrace each and every moment – whether taking a meditative walk through the jungle or crystal labyrinth, cleansing your mind and body with a water meditation at the ‘holy spring’ or consciously enjoying every bite of food plucked fresh from the flourishing organic gardens. Evenings are for quiet contemplation in a hammock by the flickering fire and stargazing from a bed in the fragrant tropical gardens. balisilentretreat.com

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KUNISAKI RETREAT WITH WALK JAPAN

> Seeking a Zen state of mind? You may well find it on the ancient pilgrim paths that crisscross the tranquil Kunisaki Peninsula. Birthplace of Japan’s unique hybrid Shinto-Buddhist religion, the region’s verdant cedar and bamboo forests are scattered with temples and shrines. Following in the mindful footsteps of Buddhist monks who have been traversing these sacred hills for more than a thousand years, this mind and body retreat involves gentle guided walks, yoga and meditation sessions, traditional inns and timeless tea ceremonies. Any lingering tension can be soaked away at the atmospheric onsen (hot springs) along the way. walkjapan.com/tour/kunisaki-retreat

MINDFULNESS AND WELLBEING RETREAT WITH SOUL SANCTUARIES

> Imagine Tai Chi by a lotus-filled lake, Reiki sessions to harness universal energy and mindfulness meditation to help you stay centred in a secluded resort where lush jungle dips to an azure sea. This healing holiday at Amanoi Resort, Vietnam, is ideal for a mind/body reset. Soul Sanctuaries also welcomes families with kids – the little ones can join in for fun resort activities while you indulge in calming ‘me time’. soul-sanctuaries.com/retreats/ amanoi-stress-relief-vietnam

DESTRESS AND RELAX RETREAT @ REVIVO WELLNESS RESORT, BALI

> Tapping into the transformative energy of the ‘island of the gods’, Revivo, Bali, takes the concept of wellness to a whole new level with luxury personalised retreats tailored to your specific goals and needs. Discover inner calm during private meditation sessions, release stress through qi gong and revive your soul with soothing Ayurvedic spa therapies.

Individual schedules are so carefully created that you barely see other guests and are left to continue your journey to peace in solitude, supported by a nurturing team of international wellness coaches and attentive Balinese staff. revivoresorts.com/destress-relaxretreat

Booking travel insurance can give you peace of mind and could cover you for any unexpected surprises.

Book at jetstar.com/travelinsurance

DISCOVER YOGA RETREAT @ SIX SENSES FIJI

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LOVE THE ONE YOU’RE WITH @ GAIA RETREAT

> Peace and pleasure go hand in hand with an indulgent two-night couples retreat high in the lush hinterland of Byron Shire, Australia’s healing heartland. Gaia (coowned by Olivia Newton-John) means ‘spirit of Mother Earth’ and sets the scene for a rejuvenating getaway.

Unwind with a yoga session, relax with a Dream for Lovers spa treatment, then soak up the silence and the sweeping views with a bottle of organic bubbles. gaiaretreat.com.au

For Australian Residents, insurance products and services are provided by AIG Australia Limited, ABN 93 004 727 753, AFSL 381686 (AIG). Jetstar Airways Pty Ltd, ABN 33 069 720 243 (Jetstar), is an authorised distributor of AIG. You should read and consider the policy and PDS at jetstar.com and note the limitations and exclusions in the policy, in light of your personal circumstances, prior to making any decision to acquire the product. For New Zealand residents, insurance is underwritten by AIG Insurance New Zealand Limited (Company Number 3195589, FSP189804) (“AIG NZ”). Jetstar is not authorised to provide any advice regarding insurance or to bind any person on behalf of AIG or AIG NZ. Jetstar Travel Insurance must be purchased prior to boarding the aircraft for departure.

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T HE T R AVELLER

the power of paradise

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W ELL NES S

—Want to have your cake and eat it too while on a holiday in Bali? Justine Costigan seeks out local healers to find a low-touch way to wellness – without losing life’s little luxuries—

CA MP U H A N RID GE WALK

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have a wet wad of chewed up betel and areca nut (the mixture is also known as paan) in the palm of my hand. It looks a litt le bit like reddish-brown compost. But this leaf is special: it has come straight from the mouth of The Priestess. In the throes of a spiritchannelling trance and supported by two assistants, she has chewed the leaves, rubbing them in and around her stained gums, before weakly spitting them out into a bowl. Now, like the rest of our group seated in a circle before her, I’m going to rub the warm pre-masticated mash onto my neck and forehead. Part of a ritual that is designed to connect us to the spiritual world, this moment follows half an hour of listening to chanting as we sit crosslegged before a flower decorated altar. Later, we’ll each inch towards The Priestess on stiff and sore knees to whisper our worries, hoping she will cure what ails us. Then we’ll rise to dance with our eyes closed while a tropical thunderstorm lashes the garden around us.

When she’s not in a trance, the Priestess – dressed traditionally in a white cotton kebaya and sarong and bright yellow sash – seems reassuringly motherly. She doesn’t speak English and we’re not allowed to know her name, take photographs or offer any payment, but I know she’s a balian, one of an estimated 8000 healers on the island, and her speciality is ketakson – the making of a spiritual connection between human and God. While the significance of much of the ritual is a mystery to me, just watching The Priestess at work is a mind-opening cultural experience.

Far from the indulgence of The Mulia (themulia.com/bali), my luxury resort hotel in Bali’s Nusa Dua, this healing ritual is taking place in a typical family compound surrounded by rice paddies in the south-east of Ubud. I’m here to see The Priestess to explore the spiritual side of Bali, part of a wider plan to take in the best of the island’s wellness offerings, while still enjoying a typical Bali break. It’s not an approach a purist might take when it comes to the path to wellbeing but I don’t think there’s anything wrong with mixing spiritual and physical business with a good dose of pleasure.

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Finding wellness-themed activities in Bali isn’t difficult (although a meeting with The Priestess requires insider knowledge and local assistance). So if your hotel isn’t offering yoga and massage or a brochure on where to find it, you’re probably not actually in Bali.

At The Mulia, morning yoga is both spiritual and sublime. With mats laid out on the dew-soaked lawn in front of Nusa Dua beach, the ache of holding a tree pose is mitigated by the beauty of the deep bloom of pink on the horizon as the sun slowly rises. A good time to start beachside yoga is 6am – not only is the view spectacular, it’s cool enough to enjoy it. As, 20 minutes after the sun has risen, the dew has disappeared and even the shade of the frangipani trees isn’t enough to protect us from the day’s sticky heat.

Our teacher Kadek is super-fit and as cool as a cucumber in his bright white T-shirt.

We follow his “om” as he takes us through a kundalini meditation followed by an intense series of hatha yoga stretches. It’s both challenging and rewarding. Challenging because this is really hard: my balance needs work and my core could do with strengthening.

Rewarding because after the meditation I feel centred and peaceful. If I take anything away from this break, it’s the determination to recreate this feeling back at home.

Wanting more, I look into booking a private one-on-one meditation consultation at the Mirah Delima Institute (mirahdelima.com) in Nusa Dua. Truth be told I’m a little nervous when I meet Guru Darmika at the institute’s headquarters in the residential area of town.

But I don’t need to worry. Our consultation starts with a reassuring cup of tea and biscuits as Darmika and I chat about what I’m looking for from the session and he takes me through the ideal breathing technique: deeply through my nose with 14 counts to breathe in, hold for 21 and release for seven. It’s much harder than it sounds.

When he’s ready we head out into the small private garden. Sitting cross-legged on a mat opposite Darmika, I’m instructed to breathe through the seven chakras (places of spiritual power in the body) with a different “om” for each, until we have moved through each one.

It’s hard work trying to control my breath and ignore the pain of sitting in one place for too long. But through the process I start to notice other things – children playing in the street, a rooster crowing, the roar of the motorcycle.

I’m aware of every movement of air and light.

B A L I’S B A L I A N S > Healers play an important role in Balinese life: for problems of the heart and the head, they are usually the first port of call. Some use plants to make healing medicines while others connect with the spirits to find insight and wisdom. Visiting a healer has become part of many wellness tourists’ must-do lists for Bali. It’s important to respect the local etiquette – genuinely wanting help is a must – and remember, time spent with tourists takes healers away from the important role they play in their own communities. To connect with a local healer, ask your hotel for recommendations.

T H E T R AV ELLER

“A G O O D TIME TO D O BEACHSIDE YO GA IS 6AM – N OT O NLY IS T HE VIEW SPECTACUL AR, IT’S C O OL EN O U G H TO ENJOY IT.”

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Towards the end of the session Darmika asks me to hold one crossed knee close to my head and rock it and kiss it like it is a baby.

“This is you,” he says. “Hold yourself like the baby you once were.” He then recites the mantra: “You are loved, you are special, you are enough.” When we finish I have a feeling of complete physical and mental release.

I practically float back to my hotel.

Wellness isn’t just for the mind and spirit, my body also needs some assistance, thanks to the indulgent buffet options at The Mulia.

And there are six pools to choose from, as well as the private pool in my villa, plus beach swimming, walks along the sand and pier and a huge and well-equipped gym. I supplement my laps with some hiking – we head to Ubud for an early morning walk along the Campuhan Ridge, a nine-kilometre hill track passing small guesthouses and homes with views down into the deep valleys and gorges over jungled hills of green.

Later that day, we also hike down to the bottom of Tegenungan Waterfall, about five kilometres south-east of Ubud, to see poststorm rainwater roaring over the ridge and down the cliff as local workers haul rocks from the water to shore up the banks. Too dangerous to swim, we cool ourselves off in the mist then

JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O B AL I.

walk back up the steep path, my thighs burning with every step.

There’s only one cure for muscle ache in Bali and the Mulia Spa takes the traditional massage experience to another level. Before succumbing to the strong arms of my attendant Rina, I slowly make my way through a cool, then warm, outdoor pool with jets of varying pressure before heading to a steam room, sauna and ice room – where a chilled bench and a rub with crushed ice restores my temperature to normal. Ninety minutes of massage later, including a house-made almond oil and red rice scrub, followed by a facial, I’m feeling restored.

I’ve indulged, poked, prodded, rocked my knee like a baby and looked after my mind, body and spirit in Bali – but am I truly healed?

Back in the compound near Ubud, we’re taken to another small altar for the culmination of the ceremony with The Priestess. Through a translator, we are warned that participants often scream as their “injury” is healed. I lie in front of the altar with my head in an assistant’s lap as The Priestess steps hard on my legs, applying deep, bone-crushing pressure. I don’t make a sound. When I ask what that means for my spiritual health, The Priestess smiles and says: “It’s a sign that you must be already well.”

JE T S TA R.C O M

fjallraven.com.au

FA MILY

joy ride

—Hoi An is host to an array of culinary delights and touring this Vietnamese city’s markets on vintage Vespas is something the kids will never forget. Sheriden Rhodes straps on her helmet for a fun (and safe) family adventure on two wheels—

T H E T R AV ELLER

FIRST, the pink light of dusk sweeps across the sky, then what sounds like a swarm of bees fills the air around our designated pick-up point in front of the impeccably manicured grounds and 4500 coconut trees of our hotel.

One by one they make their entrance – vintage Vespas, that is – in show-stopping shades of metallic silver and aqua with retro stripes.

The Vietnamese drivers wear loud orange shirts, matching helmets and infectious grins.

Coming to an abrupt halt, they line up in a perfect row and strike a pose, even doing a dab in perfect unison. All the kids watching go mad for the dab. This is going to be fun, I think, as we strap on our helmets and board pillion-style.

While a part of me is slightly nervous (it would never cross my mind to do this back home in Newcastle, even though our traffic has nothing on Vietnam), another part wholeheartedly embraces seeing the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Hoi An Ancient Town, by motorbike. I’ve quizzed the patient staff at

our hotel, Four Seasons Resort The Nam Hai (fourseasons.com/hoian), and they assure me it’s one of their most popular tours. The operators, Vespa Adventures (vespaadventures.com), put safety first and foremost.

Vietnam is home to about 95 million people and with 45 million registered motorbikes, these buzzing two-wheelers are the country’s main form of transport. So these guides know how to navigate the city streets safely. I don’t need the statistics to appreciate Vietnam’s devotion to these machines, however – the first thing we saw when we arrived were motorbikes surging through the streets like millions of twinkling Tinkerbells.

On the Streets and Eats of Hoi An Vespa tour, six of us are assigned our own driver for a four-hour exploration of the city’s food scene.

Vespa Adventures’ English-speaking guides not only ensure the ride is safe and fun, but kid-friendly too – children will love the thrill of riding on the back of the vintage bikes and

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MORE THINGS TO DO WITH KIDS IN HOI AN > Take a daytrip to the Cham Islands for a glimpse of local island life. Swim and snorkel around the island then stop for a barbecue lunch.

all ages are welcome to join (but kids under six will need to share their bike with a guardian so it’s better suited to those over seven). Everyone must wear a helmet and all bikes have a backrest for extra anchoring and balance.

Crossing from the coast to the old town through rice fields and along narrow streets lined with tailor shops, the tour takes you to those secret spots where locals like to eat and play, while drivers point out Hoi An’s more recognisable highlights along the way. My driver Ben, the tour leader, clearly loves his job but is secretly a frustrated performer. He sings soppy Vietnamese love songs as we scooter through the night and become part of the colour and chaos of Hoi An, an historic city known for its White Rose dumplings, colourful lanterns and that banh mi shop – Banh Mi Phuong – made famous by the late Anthony Bourdain. All my senses feel heightened as there’s so much happening around me: the movement, the colour, the tang of fish sauce and chilli on lips, the salty sea air. This is a great adventure for older kids; they feel independent while soaking in the colour and life on the streets of Hoi An but, because the tour stops regularly, parents can still check-in while on the road.

Riding as the Vietnamese do means you travel alongside them – whole families, young men on their way home from soccer practice, dad bringing home cau lou (noodles) from a hawker stall. Kids shout greetings as we pass by and on the front porch of local homes we see families tucking into bowls of pho. It gives a real sense of what it’s like to live in the ancient trading city.

Single file, we arrive at the village of An Bang on sunset. At the Shore Club by the

> Catch nightly performances including bai choi (a kind of Vietnamese game similar to bingo) and traditional singing at the corner of Nguyen Thai Hoc and Bach Dang in Hoi An. > An Bang Beach is one of the nearest to Hoi An and offers kid-friendly water sports and a row of restaurants with a beachy vibe. Our favourites are Shore Club and The DeckHouse (0011 84 90 565 81 06).

C H A M ISL A NDS

BA N H MI PH U O N G

> The Hoi An Night Market has fabulous hawker stalls.

Kids will love the banana pancakes, mango shakes and rolled ice cream.

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K I D S’ C O O K I N G CLASSES

TRIPLE T HE FU N

beach, there’s a Seminyak-meets-Vietnam feel and we drink Lychee Martinis – with mocktails for the kids, of course – as the sun sinks into the East Sea. Tourists gather on the beach, locals fly kites and others seek relief from the hot sultry air with a dip in the sea.

After sundowners we travel in convoy to the heart of the old city, stopping to taste the famous White Rose dumplings – a recipe so heavily guarded it remains under lock and key.

Down a narrow side lane, we sample com ga (chicken rice) at a hawker stall and tuck into whole fried fish washed down with local brew at a Vietnamese beer garden. Our favourite dish is the famous crispy banh xeo (Vietnamese pancake) which we eat alongside other families under fluoro lighting.

Between courses we browse the night markets with their colourful lanterns and take a boat ride down the Thu Bon River, floating paper lanterns over the side that we had purchased from a sweet Vietnamese woman missing all her teeth.

As we ride home through the balmy night, palm trees silhouetted against the moon, we’re grateful for the insight we’ve been given into life in Hoi An. The kids will never stop talking about that time they rode on a back of a motorbike through the narrow streets of this fascinating trading port.

JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O V IE T N A M.

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JE T S TA R.C O M

For a complete change of pace, the Four Season’s (fourseasons.com/hoian) new Nam Hai Cooking Academy takes kids’ tastebuds on a tour. Before we get cooking, Chef Trang takes us to the Tra Que vegetable village where the resort sources some of its organic produce.

We’re served a lemongrass drink with basil seeds before changing into loose cotton jackets and conical hats, just like those of the local farmers.

And just like them, we each have a go turning the earth, working up a sweat in the hot morning sun. Afterwards we spread seaweed fertiliser and plant seedlings before a farmer, with two watering cans strapped across his back, soaks them.

When we return to the academy, our group of five are assigned our own workstations. Aprons are donned and, with the help of Chef Trang, kids learn to julienne vegetables, chop lemon basil and garlic and flip Vietnamese pancakes.

We prepare crispy spring rolls, noodles in a salty pork broth served with mint and basil, spicy chicken salad and banh xeo. The kids’ favourite? The spring rolls, which are devoured within seconds of hitting the table.

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Gold Coast CURRUMBIN ROCK POOLS

> This is what idyllic childhoods are made of: scrambling over smooth, warm rocks, swinging on a rope and landing in the cool, clear water of the Currumbin Rock Pools (goldcoast.qld. gov.au). Kids and adults love slipping down the natural waterslides and exploring the picturesque waterholes.

GC AQUA PARK

> Just over a year old and already a firm favourite for families with kids aged five and over is the inflatable GC Aqua Park in Southport (gcaquapark.com.au). You’ll be zooming down inflatable slides, leaping onto huge bouncy pillows, catching air on enormous swings and dashing down runways. Zip up your life vest and get ready to make a splash.

BBQ BOAT

> Discover another side to the Gold Coast by hiring the ultimate in multigenerational family fun – a BBQ boat (mirageboathire.com.au), which seats up to 10 people. Pack some snags and a fishing rod and glide through the safe, calm waters past Seaworld and up to Wave Break Island. No licence is required so even the littlest skippers can have a turn at the helm.

SPRINGBROOK NATIONAL PARK

> Choose your own adventure in this verdant and mountainous national park (destinationgoldcoast. com). Stroll to the magnificent Goomoolahra Falls, about 40km inland from Burleigh Heads, and wander through the towering and ancient Antarctic Beech trees. Keep an eye out for the rare species that sound like they belong in a children’s fairytale: the cascade treefrog, sooty owl and tusked frog.

Voco Gold Coast INCLUSIONS • Return Starter airfares to Gold Coast (checked baggage not included) • 3 nights in a Deluxe Ocean View Twin Room • Breakfast daily • Pre-dinner drink per person daily (wine, beer and soft drink only) • 15% off food and beverages (excludes minibar) • Late check out at 1pm PRICE From $229^ per person, based on 2 adults and 2 children.

For more information visit jetstar.com/holidays ^Sale Ends 11.59pm AEDT Saturday 30 November 2019 unless sold out prior.

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Selected travel dates and terms and conditions apply.

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Sunwing Kamala Beach

Phuket, Thailand BANGPAE WATERFALL

> Deep within Phuket’s last remaining virgin rainforest in Khao Phra Thaeo National Park, this surging waterfall tumbles down a narrow chasm, spilling into pristine rock-hewn plunge pools. It’s a true hidden gem and the perfect spot for a dip. Adventurous families may want to try and swim underneath the cascading falls.

FLYING HANUMAN

> Fly through the trees with the greatest of ease on this safe high-speed zip-lining experience (flyinghanuman.com). The 15 lines and 28 platforms give you a bird’s-eye view of the forest canopy’s towering rubber trees and dense jungle. Thrill seekers will love the roller zip line which criss-crosses the entire park in one continuous streak.

ELEPHANT SANCTUARY

> Discover the beauty and majesty of elephants the right way at this ethical sanctuary for sick, injured and mistreated creatures (phuketelephantsanctuary.org/ en). Learn about how to protect the gentle giants, take a stroll with them and watch them play in the water. For kids, the definite highlight is holding out pieces of pineapple, banana or cucumber and watching the elephants’ trunks unfurl and gently take their snack.

WEEKEND MARKET

> Located on Chao Fa West Road near Phuket Town, the weekend market is a fascinating and vibrant spot for families to visit. You’ll find souvenirs and cheap clothes but there are also delicious food stalls; from fish balls and fresh roasted duck to dumplings and sweet Thai pancakes.

Make your getaway easy on the wallet and simple to organise. Jetstar Holiday Packages have hundreds of holiday deals across the network, backed by their Price Beat Guarantee.

INCLUSIONS • Return Starter airfares to Phuket (checked baggage not included) • 7 nights in a Studio Room • Kids (3-11 years) eat free – when dining with a paying adult off the “Lollo & Bernie” menu • 1 x dinner at Som’s kitchen, for two • Two free hours of babysitting • Two ice-cream cards for kids to use during their stay (ten ice-creams each) • 1 x shuttle bus transfer (return) to Patong or Phuket Town PRICE From $649^ per person, based on 2 adults and 2 children.

For more information visit jetstar.com/holidays ^Sale Ends 11.59pm AEDT Saturday 30 November 2019 unless sold out prior. Prices are per person based on two adults and two children sharing, departing Melbourne, staying at the Sunwing Kamala Beach.

Selected travel dates and terms and conditions apply.

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the cut > THE BEST OF WHERE TO EAT, DRINK AND PL AY

G OL D C OAST BAL I PA PAGGEE

00893 8 SE O UL

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> A visit to the South Korean capital’s Incheon Airport could include a round of golf, a movie and even ice skating.

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> The NSW north coast town has a population of less than 10,000 but welcomes over two million tourists a year.

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> Cherry Ripe, Freddo Frog and Crunchie were all created in the city on the Yarra by confectioners MacRobertson.

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T HE C U T

GOLD COAST E AT + DRINK

Hayley Williamson, Theory Agency Additional words: Matt Shea

—Popcorn ice-cream. Cacao mole burrito. And bug rolls.

The Gold Coast food scene is unrecognisable from what it was a decade ago. Celeste Mitchell reveals the places surprising diners for all the right reasons—

S TABLE C OFFEE K ITC HEN

best > STABLE COFFEE KITCHEN.

C O M M U NE

Tucked away within the Cornerstone Stores in Tugun, this café is in good company with a fromagerie, pilates studio and organic-leaning boutiques.

Drop in for petit dejeuner (small breakfast of fresh juice, coffee and croissant with preserves) or wrap your lips around Stable’s iteration of the brekkie roll, with lashings of coffee and fig jam. Come 10am, you can brunch with a limoncello spritz in hand. stablecoffeekitchen.com

> COMMUNE. You could say Commune sparked the swell of change in the GC’s café scene when it opened in an old butcher’s shop on a nondescript side street eight years ago. The all-day brekkie menu champions bowls (acai, dragonfruit, salad-y), alongside coriander corn fritters and cacao pancakes. Start with an expertly made Campos coffee and kick into true Gold Coast gear with Bucha of Byron kombucha (on tap) topped with berries and mint.

(07) 5520 3377

ELK ESPRES S O

for brekkie

> DUST TEMPLE. The café in this former surfboard factory in Currumbin Waters is just the mouth of the rabbit hole. Go past the eatery and spin into an art gallery, mingle with musos in the recording studio and return for jazz sessions, poetry readings and life-drawing classes by night. Order homemade banana coconut bread or a Dusty Croissant stuffed with local smoked ham, tomato, cheese, basil and relish. dusttemple.com.au

> THE PADDOCK BAKERY. The wood-fired oven is at the literal and metaphorical heart of this 70-year-old Queenslander-cum-café in the backstreets of Miami. If you make it past the decadent counter treats (hello, ham and cheese cruffins and twice-baked almond croissants), go old school with ‘Toad in the Hole’ and devour two fried eggs in a slice of semi-sourdough scotch loaf with bacon, smashed avo and chilli sambal, all while sitting under the olive trees and passionfruit vines. paddockbakery.com

> ELK ESPRESSO. Pioneers of the breakfast panna cotta, longtime local fave Elk moved from its original digs to the Oasis Shopping Centre in Broadbeach in 2017. As well as Mandarin Splice French toast and a Moroccan waffle, you’ll find a hearty potato hash with double smoked Byron Bay bacon on the menu to munch among the hanging plants and native blooms while The Beatles and Fleetwood Mac play on high rotation. elkespresso.net

CHILDHOOD FL ASHBACKS Head to Randy Wallhole in Southport for PG-rated breakfast treats such as Coco Pops iced lattes and weekly specials such as Oreo cream cheese bagels. fb.me/randywallhole

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with a view > RICK SHORES. Any closer to the ocean and you’d be paddling onto the next wave.

Set underneath Burleigh Pavilion, locals flock here first and foremost for the eponymous bug rolls. Picture fresh Moreton Bay bug meat in light, crispy tempura batter, topped with gem lettuce and sriracha mayo in a pillowy brioche bun. Sit outside with sand between your toes or inside at eyeline with Burleigh’s famous breaks. The mocktail list will impress non-drinkers. rickshores.com.au

NINE TEEN AT T HE S TAR

SPECIAL MENTION Sweeping views and Russian caviar ‘bumps’ spooned onto the back of your hand? It must be Nineteen at The Star. star.com.au/goldcoast

> KING CRAB CO. Bibs on for this finger-licking American-style crab house overlooking the yachts at Marina Mirage in Main Beach. Alaskan king and snow crab, Australian blue swimmers, Fraser Island spanner crab and Jonah crab claws are flown in to be cooked in the bag or presented on ice. Best when combined with spritz cocktail pitchers and shoestring fries done three ways. Don’t expect fussy white-tablecloth service though, the vibe is cool and casual. kingcrabco.com.au

> THE FISH HOUSE. With that name, there’s no mistaking the speciality of this fine diner. Drink in views over Burleigh Beach – and something from the superb wine list – with the bi-fold windows pushed back. Sustainably caught fish are flown in daily but the lemony fish soup is a winner no matter what. thefishhouse.com.au

> ELEPHANT ROCK CAFE. Pad across the road from Currumbin Beach and head upstairs for one of the best seats on the coast to share a long board grazing platter with friends. Keep an eye out for themed happy hours such as Mexicana Margarita nights which feature sensational fish tacos. elephantrock.com.au

> SEASCAPE. Floating above the hubbub of Surfers Paradise beach you’ll find the threedimensional mural inside Seascape almost as captivating as the ocean views. Naturally, seafood is king, with seasonal oysters (try vodka and finger lime dressing) followed up with six daily catches. Special occasion?

Splurge on the chef’s five-course selection with matching wines. seascape.com.au

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G OL D C OA S T RES TAUR A N T L ABART

GOING UP The slow-cooked lamb is still the star but Nobby Beach Greek stalwart Hellenika has reached literal new heights with the opening of its sun-drenched rooftop. hellenika.com.au

> FRANKIES BRASSERIE. The focus at this smart bistro is creating dishes inspired by premium local produce such as scallops in shell or mango sorbet with honeycomb.

With an Australian-focused wine list to boot, it is clear Melbourne foodie veteran Frank Heaney and head chef Roberto Dimiv are staunch localists.

Add in brunch on weekends and this moody new 50-seater is fast becoming the popular new kid on the Broadbeach block. frankiesbrasserie.com.au

> MR HIZOLA’S. The ethos is go hard or go home at this modern Cantonese banquet hall in Burleigh. At $50 a head, the Emperor’s Feast is the cheapest way to a deeply satisfying food coma.

Pair the likes of Wagyu dumplings and butterfly prawns with classic lemon chicken and Wuxi-style lamb ribs and kick it in the rump with a Hong Kong Spice cocktail made on Kaffir-lime infused vodka. mrhizolas.com.au

> THE TROPIC AT BURLEIGH PAVILION. It may be the formal half of the sprawling Burleigh Pavilion – from the same folks as Mrs Sippy and Manly Wharf Hotel – but with a beach at the backdoor it is still the kind of place where you can go from sand to starters. Headed up by hatted chef Guillaume Zika, seafood steals the menu limelight but the woodfired pig bun is on a stage all its own. Teamed with a broad wine list and locals Balter and Stone & Wood on the taps, it screams date night. burleighpavilion.com/the-tropic

> MISS MONEYPENNY’S. The Noosa institution expands to Broadbeach with chef Braden White celebrating first-class produce such as barramundi from the Whitsundays – served with warrigal and a clam and potato puree – and New England sirloin accompanied by truffled cabbage and smoked mushroom. The winsome wood and terracotta fit-out makes for a space that remains intimate during even the busiest times. missmoneypennysbroadbeach.com T HE TR OPIC AT B URLEIG H PAVIL IO N

> RESTAURANT LABART. Slip inside this multi-award winning neighbourhood diner in Burleigh and you could be in your favourite Parisian bistro. Low lighting and carefully choreographed service set the tone for the daily-changing menu by ex-Sydney chef Alex Munoz Labart.

Courses debut in sync with the killer playlist, spanning Talking Heads to instrumental hip hop. The Burleigh Baker baguette with caramelised butter is a revelation before you even set eyes on the artfully prepared seafood or popcorn ice-cream. restaurantlabart.com

new hotspots

KENZAN

AUTHENTIC JAPANESE DINING

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LL of FAME HA •

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EXCELLENCE

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CERTIFICATE of

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Kenzan Japanese Collins Place, 45 Collins Street, Melbourne +61 (03) 9654 8933 | kenzan.com.au

2015 • 20 1

Visit Kenzan Japanese restaurant for some of the freshest sushi and sashimi dishes in Melbourne, along with daily changing à la carte dishes and surprising specials. The restaurant has been in its current CBD location for 38 years, and is the most awarded Japanese restaurant in Melbourne. Be welcomed by friendly staff for an authentic Japanese dining experience.

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vegan friendly

> GOODNESS GRACIAS. This cheery yellow Palm Beach burrito joint switched to 100 per cent vegan in November 2018, serving up re-imagined classics including a cacao mole burrito (made with plantbased shredded chicken), alongside street corn, tacos, quesadillas and mocktails. It’s as much fun as you can have this side of the border. goodnessgracias.com.au

Prepare the carnivores in your crew – there’s no bacon on the menu at this vegetarian café but you will find slow roasted mushrooms and, on request, a vegan version of lemon ricotta pancakes. Concrete arches frame cushion-filled nooks in this Mermaid Beach haunt, competing with the food for best Instagram fodder. themilkmansdaughter.coffee

GREEN H O USE CA N TEEN & BAR

> THE MILKMAN’S DAUGHTER.

> THE CARDAMOM POD. Keep your footprint light as you dance through the plant-based menu at this vegetarian favourite (they keep cow milk in the mix for those who think milk from nuts is, well, nuts). Starving? Order the Buddha bowl with rainbow rice paper rolls. cardamompodbrickworks.com

D I D Y O U S AY DUMPLINGS? Since 2010, Easy House Vegetarian in Mermaid Waters has been the go-to for vegan yum cha fans. Ask for the XO noodles. fb.me/easyhouseveg

> GREENHOUSE CANTEEN & BAR. Since Greenhouse first opened in Kirra in 2014, the Gold Coast vegan scene has boomed. A new home (Miami), two franchises (Coolangatta, South Brisbane), ready-made dinners, a deli and a spa have all been added to the line-up. Drop in for Small Eats and Big Eats with a Mexican bend (hello, smoked jackfruit enchilada). greenhousecanteen.com

G O OD NES S GR ACIAS

As the motto scrawled on the wall in this Mermaid Waters café reads, “Life’s too short, eat the cake”. Even if you come for the savoury, such as vegan cheesy fries, save room for the vegan Nutella honeycomb pancakes.

The coffee is Allpress, the sourdough is from Burleigh Baker and the décor is minimalist Scandi-chic. nudesistersfoods.com JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O T H E G OL D C O A S T.

JE T S TA R.C O M

Kaitlin Maree

> NUDE SISTERS.

H APPY H O U RS

SEOUL —In this buzzing South Korean capital, Happy Hour deals can involve anything from rare wine to playtime with pups, says local expert Hahna Yoon—

IMAGES_ WESLEY CHANG

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> POCKET This, South Korea’s first sustainable bar, sources local products, focuses on minimising waste and creates a new menu every season. The Purple Drank and Pocket Mules are their mainstays and can be purchased at a better value on Tuesdays. Get a taco from sister establishment Southside Parlor and show your receipt for a buy-one-get-onefree Highballs deal at Pocket. It’s also Industry Night on Mondays so selected beers and wines are only 5000won (AUD$6.20) for those who work in the food and beverage business. Love people-watching?

Pocket’s window-side seats offer panoramic views of pedestrians.

D O N ’ T M I S S : Any cocktail mixed with On A Lark Sodas, a local soda brewery that uses local ingredients in their bubblies. fb.me/pocketseoul

> WINE BAR BOCCALINO > THE WORKSHOP & THE HIDDEN CELLAR Looking for a place to watch a game or mingle with expats? Stop by these sister bars located on the first floor and basement of a small building in Haebangchon. While The Workshop focuses a bit more on food and The Hidden Cellar leans into the drinks side of things, both offer exceptional happy hour specials. At The Workshop, you can enjoy buy-oneget-one-free cocktails from Mondays to Thursdays, 6pm-8pm and to 7pm on weekends (lemon and herbinfused gin, anyone?). Downstairs, the deal applies to selected draught beers at the same times.

D O N ’ T M I S S : The duo’s food specials such as Savoury Pie Wednesdays and open mic events on the weekends. fb.me/hbcliqourstore

Located at the Four Seasons Hotel, this elegant establishment is linked to one of the most talked-about Italian restaurants in the city – Boccalino.

The wine bar offers a lighter alternative to a fine dining meal and boasts a menu of hard-to-find wines, delicate cocktails and antipasti with a Korean twist. During Wine Down Happy Hour, 5:30pm-9pm Tuesday to Saturday, the small luxuries are available at bargain prices – special prices apply to wine as well as appetisers. A glass of 2017 Sauvignon Blanc Vette di San Leonardo for 15,000won (AUD$18.50)? Yes, please.

D O N ’ T M I S S : The Boccalino Spritz with Bianco vermouth, sparkling wine and soda. fourseasons.com/seoul

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> SULDABANG

SEO UL IS TA

Featuring antique décor, this cosy cocktail bar is nestled on the second floor of an industrial warehouse building in the trendy Euljiro neighbourhood. Admire the rare premium soju bottles in the fridge while lounging on one of the couches or take a seat at the bar to watch the bartenders whip up concoctions such as the Moonbae Sool negroni, made with 40 per cent Moonbae Sool soju.

Their after-work special, which runs from 6pm to 6:50pm on weekdays, offers a drink-of-the-month paired with a small plate of fruits and crackers, for 10,000won (AUD$12.35).

D O N ’ T M I S S : A glass of the rare Dam Soul, a 40 per cent proof pine liquor. instagram.com/suldabang

> MILL2GRAM

> SEOULISTA

The locals are so obsessed with pizza and maekju (beer), there’s a special name for the combination – pimec. And from 3pm to 6pm, you can celebrate pimec at this bar where a craft brew is just 3000won (AUD$3.70) with the order of a pizza.

Weekdays 5pm-10pm, beer fans can participate in the “100-minute show” – unlimited beer for 100 minutes at 17,000won (AUD$21).

D O N ’ T M I S S : The jalapeño pizza. instagram.com/mill2gram_official

This spacious bar is set within boutique Hotel Manu along Seoullo 7017, an overpass-turned-park, à la New York’s High Line. Sit on the patio and pick from a wide range of South Korea’s finest craft beers sourced from renowned breweries including Budnamu Brewery in Gangneung and Magpie Brewing Co. in Seoul. On Saturdays and Sundays, from 11:30am to 5pm, all beers are 6,900won ($8.50).

D O N ’ T M I S S : The Whale Run, a pub crawl through some of the finest craft beer bars in Central Seoul. seoulista.place

“T H URSDAY’S ‘P UPPY NIG H T’ IS A C U T AB OVE T HE REST. BRIN G A YO U N G PE T D O G ALO N G F OR C O MPA N Y.”

S O U T HSIDE PARLOR

> SOUTHSIDE PARLOR Acclaimed cocktails, friendly service and phenomenal rooftop views?

Texas-inspired bar Southside Parlor has it all, but Thursday’s Puppy Night is a cut above the rest. Bring a young pet dog along, order from the bar’s food menu and choose wine by the glass for just 5,000won (AUD$6) each. The same promotion also includes a bottle of house wine for 20,000won (AUD$25). And on Wednesdays grab a basket of 10 wings for 5,000won with a drink.

D O N ’ T M I S S : Piggy Chips – potato chips with pulled pork, Monterey Jack cheese, cilantro and onions. fb.me/southsideparlor

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SUSHI JAPAN

—This popular Japanese dish has traversed global borders, thanks to its balance of savoury flavour, appetising texture and umami—

> W H AT IS I T? Sushi is traditionally a combination of raw fish and rice dressed with vinegar. In many places outside of its native Japan, the word sushi is synonymous with the popular type known as maki, where ingredients are rolled in seaweed.

WORDS_ DEBORAH GRUNFELD

> W HERE D OES I T C O ME FR O M? At least as far back as the fourth century, preserving fish in fermented rice was a way to stop the catch going off so quick – the rice was thrown away before eating. Then, in the beginning of the 19th century, the first sushi master (or taisho) Hanaya Yohei came up with nigiri – where good-quality sliced raw fish is placed on top of a rectangular prism of rice.

> I T IS A PRIZED P O S SES SIO N Chef Angelito Araneta Jr. of the Philippines holds the Guinness World Record for the most expensive sushi. The five-piece set of nigiri

sushi, created in 2010, was wrapped in edible 24-carat gold leaf and garnished with .20 carat African diamonds, all for the princely sum of $2000.

> ALL AB OARD T HE S U S HI T R A IN “Conveyor belt” sushi, where prepared sushi meals are served to restaurant customers on a moving “train”, was invented by Yoshiaki Shiraishi in Osaka in 1958. With difficulty staffing his small restaurant, Yoshiaki was inspired after watching beer bottles travel on a conveyor belt in an Asahi beer brewery.

> W H AT ARE T HE BES T C O N DIMEN T S? Place a little soy sauce in a small bowl and dip, rather than pouring on top. If you can handle the heat, add wasabi – the spicy green paste is said to have anti-bacterial properties – and palate-cleansing pickled ginger. To drink, choose green tea or a Japanese beer.

> N U T RI T IO N N O U S Sushi is generally considered healthy but the vinegared rice can be high in sugar and the soy sauce high in salt. The fish-filled options are the most nutritious. Watch the quantities and bulk out your sushi meal with a bowl of miso soup and a side of edamame (soy beans in the pod).

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FALL FROM GRACE > Somewhere within Melbourne restaurant State of Grace is the camouflaged door to a clandestine subterranean cellar bar, cleverly called Fall from Grace. Our tip? We’ve heard tales of a sliding bookshelf that accesses an intriguing room filled with cosy armchairs, crafty cocktails and a great vibe... stateofgracemelbourne.com.au

T HE CU MBERL AND

W H AT 'S [ TRENDING]

IN BARS? > Fulfil your Narnia fantasies in a vintagestyle venue only accessible through a wardrobe. You’ll also need a secret password to gain entry to Mrs J Rabbits, hidden above Brisbane’s Electric Avenue Kitchen and Bar, but once inside there’s live jazz and an extensive gin and whisky list plus a bespoke cocktail menu to quench your thirst. electricavenuejr.com.au

Dan Gosse

—Relive the romance and thrilling secrecy of the Prohibition era by sneaking in the hidden entrance of a speakeasy, only for those in the know—

MRS J RABBITS

WORDS_ DEBORAH GRUNFELD

> Nestled inside a Manly deli in Sydney is an antique fridge whose door is the secret entrance to the newly opened underground bar The Cumberland. A spiral staircase leads down to an ornate interior inspired by 1920s American speakeasies (when alcohol was illegal), where you can sample signature tipples such as Wild Fennel Calling, made with foraged ingredients. Or choose from more than 250 whiskies, natural wines and craft beers. cumberlandmanly.com.au

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EXPERIEN CE

Where the wild things are —Growing interest in reconnecting with nature has led to an appetite for foraging amongst everyday foodies.

Sudeshna Ghosh goes plant picking for her dinner—

“I SMILE WITH DELIGHT WHEN I COME UPON A CLUMP OF WARRIGAL GREENS GROWING IN WILD ABANDON AT MY FEET.”

restaurant Orana, chefs foraging for ingredients they turn into unique dishes isn’t new. As awareness grows about the increasing urgency of eating sustainably, this interest in turning to nature’s larder for food is also becoming more mainstream.

“Interest in foraging is certainly trending, people are realising this is something they can get involved with,” says Peter. “And chefs are leading the charge with that and inspiring people.”

According to Diego Bonetto, who runs urban foraging workshops across NSW, there has been a definite uptick in people interested in foraging, crediting the Noma restaurant effect for putting it firmly in the spotlight. “The number of workshops I run has nearly doubled in the last five years,” he says.

As someone who cares passionately about what I eat and

PE TER H ARD W ICK

Squelch, squelch… my city slicker sneakers sink into the wet, sandy shoreline as I march forward with the rest of the group, single file, before making a sharp left turn into the forest. OK, not so much a forest as a thicket. In a council park. But it’s wild enough for me.

The waters of Shaws Bay lap gently at the sand, as a child squeals in delight on playground swings in the distance, reminding me that, although in Australian scrub, we are not far from civilisation at all – barely 20 minutes from Byron Bay, in fact.

I’m on a foraging walk with Peter Hardwick, a veteran horticulturist and wild food researcher who is credited as being one of the pioneers of promoting Australian native foods, exploring one of his favourite stomping grounds. Peter, who has been championing bush foods for over four decades, is now the resident forager at Harvest Newrybar restaurant where I am soon about to dine on a gourmet dinner created using some of these unexpected ingredients – think fermented wattle and finger lime – made by none other than Attica chef Ben Shewry (who is guest chef-ing at the restaurant for one night only).

From the likes of Rene Redzepi, of Copenhagen’s Noma fame, to Jock Zonfrillo, who celebrates native ingredients in his acclaimed Adelaide

E XPER IEN CE T REN D

C H ARRED GARL IC FLO WERS AT H ARVES T

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its provenance, nothing could make me happier. I smile with delight when I come upon a clump of textured warrigal greens growing in wild abandon at my feet; it’s the only thing I recognise on this foraging walk, however. Earlier on the expedition, Peter introduced me to sea purslane – it tastes salty, of the sea it grows so close to – and grey mangrove, which has the texture of avocado but tastes like olives when pickled, among a few other wild plants.

I encounter some unexpected flavours that evening at dinner too. The yeast bread toast topped with crunchy ngerdi (green ants) is confronting but surprisingly delicious, bunya nuts add a delightful new layer of flavour to dessert and the highlight of the evening is potatoes – given an incredibly rich, smoky flavour from the sea kelp they were cooked in. It’s a revelatory meal.

When the ingredients in a dish are this closely connected to nature, the food tastes… just different. Good different. It helps create an instant connection with the source.

“Everyone’s got this desire to connect with nature. And the idea of foraging – that whole selfsufficiency thing, it touches on the human psyche in a primal way,” Peter explains. Diego agrees. “I get a diverse range of people coming to forage, but in my opinion, one of the main drivers is environmental guilt,” he says. “By now we have a clear

H ARVES T

understanding of how disconnected we are to that land. By engaging with wild food sources, you become a stakeholder.”

Apart from taste, eating off the land is also beneficial for health – a number of native ingredients have medicinal qualities. Which is not to say that we should be swapping our supermarket shop for a foraging trip to the local park next weekend! “You have to be careful – there are things out there that are toxic, which is something I continually emphasise,” warns Peter. “Equally important is responsible foraging, to ensure we are not harming the environment. There is a lot of information out there, but also a lot of misinformation, which can be dangerous.”

But with a growing number of professional foragers guiding curious visitors into the world of edible native plants, it is becoming ever easier to learn how to eat as nature intended.

And if that sparks an interest in eating more sustainably, it can only be a good thing.

And the food will always taste better.

3 PL AC ES YO U C A N G O F O R A GI N G > Mushrooms Diego Bonetto runs wild food and mushroom foraging tours around Sydney and NSW. diegobonetto.com > Truffles You can go truffle hunting during the winter season in the forests of Manjimup in WA. australiantruffletraders. com > Bush tucker Learn about bush tucker with an Aboriginal elder and try out wild foods in Kakadu, NT. animaltracks.com.au

Cronulla M Y PL ACE

Kirsty Watt

—Former rugby league player-turned-media personality Beau Ryan has whizzed around the globe as the new host of The Amazing Race Australia but he still gets a kick coming home to Sydney’s Sutherland Shire—

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Much of the allure of this south Sydney suburb lies in its proximity to long stretches of golden sand, sparkling waterways and glistening bays. But for local Beau Ryan, knowing the lady who runs the buzzing coffee shop and being only 30 kilometres away from the big smoke is Cronulla’s real charm.

After hopping across the globe as host of the new season of The Amazing Race Australia (airing on 10 and WIN Networks), Beau settles back into life at home and gives us a glimpse into his beachside hideaway.

What was it like filming The Amazing Race Australia? > I learnt a lot about myself. I went to all of the countries with an open mind – and far out! I was blown away by the cultures. I can’t wait to get back to some of the countries and take my family. I mean, I won’t be racing around with a 30-kilogram backpack on but I’d like to go back and see them properly.

ALPH ABE T S T

Where did you get to visit? > I went to Asia, Africa and through Australia.

CR O N ULL A R O CK P O OL

You grew up south of Sydney in Wollongong but now live in the Shire. What do you love most about Cronulla? > Heaps of things. I love the people and the fact that it’s in Sydney but still a bit out and only 30 minutes from the city. And it’s close to Wollongong, so I go down there to see my family. I love the beach and the weather’s always good – I love everything about it!

How do you spend a typical Sunday? > I get up and go to my local coffee shop, Shelly Park Shop (fb.me/ shellyparkshop), with my wife and kids. I go there every day – it’s legit 100 metres away. I’ll grab a coffee. I drink a lot of coffee, so I’m very good friends with the owner. I might grab breakfast, too. We usually come home, go for a swim, chill out with the kids and then invite people over for a barbecue.

Cronulla has a great surfing culture.

Do you surf? > I don’t surf. But I might go for a swim at home or down at the beach. Or we’ve got a nice ocean pool near us.

What’s your favourite local gem? > There’s this modern Thai place called Alphabet St (alphabetst.net).

I love it – and I just spent a lot of time eating street food in Asia. We eat out quite a lot and we try to eat there at least once a month.

BEAU’S ULTIMATE CRONULLA CHALLENGE Here’s where to go for an Amazing Race-style adventure of your own. > CR O N ULL A S A N D D U N ES The Wanda sandhills are some of the biggest in Australia. If you want a tough physical challenge, racing across the dunes will give you an incredible and invigorating workout. environment.nsw.gov.au > P OIN T SBE T S TA DIU M Grab a footy, go for the tackle and score a try at local Tonkin Oval. Or head to Shark Park (aka PointsBet Stadium) and watch the NRL pros. sharks.com.au > CR O N ULL A R O CK P O OL There are some incredible ocean pools in Cronulla.

Feeling brave? Try diving into this Olympic-sized tidal pool in the middle of winter. sutherlandshire.nsw. gov.au

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SOUTH YARRA [ MELBOURNE ] —There’s a very good reason this stylish suburb has never gone out of fashion – it’s a little bit old school and always a bit bold school—

< THE LOOK > IT’S ABOUT TAKING THE @P O SEA NDREPEAT

LATEST TRENDS – THINK FLORAL MINIS, STATEMENT TEES AND RETRO SUNNIES – AND PAIRING THEM WITH MORE TRADITIONAL PIECES SO PERSONAL STYLE IS TIMELESS, IRREVERENT AND A CHIC STEP TO THE SIDE

@ SA MDESP O

OF THE FASHION PACK.

> HOSS. Part arty, part classic with a twist, step inside this boutique bursting with midi-dresses, statement tops and accessories that work hard from Australian and overseas designers. Curated so that trends are acknowledged but never blindly followed, you will keep these pieces forever.

Don’t forget to check out their eponymous label. hoss.com.au

@ZOEKO S TOP

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THE ESSENTIALS.

PAS T PERFEC T Everything old is new again with this retro-style frame. (‘Outta Love’ sunglasses, $59.95, au.lespecs.com.)

M AKE A S TATEMEN T A slogan adds interest to a crisp, basic Tee. (Atmos&Here ‘Female Printed Tee’, $39.99, theiconic.com.au.)

> SPORTSGIRL. > GORMAN. The only thing more Melbourne than a Gorman mini-dress is the Yarra River... on Melbourne Cup Day. You know the drill: playful prints in unexpected silhouettes.

Added to that, Gorman has an organic line and is committed to making clothes ethically. gormanshop.com.au

> IN.CUBE8R. Yes, we’ve cheated slightly in terms of geography but this unique shop, crammed with handmade wares, from clothing to jewellery and accessories, is worth the stroll to.

Local artists rent cubes and clothing racks in this store and pocket 100 per cent of the profits. incube8r.com.au

Cheap, cheerful and oh so Australian. There’s a reason Sportsgirl has been dressing young women since opening their first store in Melbourne in 1948.

The fashion is fast, it’s fun and it’s accessible to everyone. sportsgirl.com.au

> SECONDO. Keen for designer pieces at a fraction of the cost? Browse the racks here for the pick of pre-loved pieces. After all, a Zimmermann silk floral dress and a Helmut Lang knit never go out of style. secondo.com.au

H A NDS O N Style up a flirty frock and kicks with a classic silhouette.

(Morgan & Taylor ‘Pippa Top Handle Bag’, $89.95, theiconic.com.au.)

> MJ BALE. Flat-front trousers, light knits, suits, business shirts that aren’t too stitched up – if you’re after classic menswear with an edge, check out this Australian brand established in 2009. Be warned: you might walk out with an entire wardrobe. mjbale.com

GREEN A ND G OLD The best of the 1980s – with a patriotic touch.

(Heritage High Leap sneaker, $74.99, volley.com.au.)

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By You custom sneaker, $215, nike.com.au 11. Women’s Court Slam 319 3 sneaker in white/red, $199.95, lacoste.com.au 12. The Day Glove ReKnit, $147, everlane.com.

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All offers end 30th November 2019 or until sold out or otherwise stated. Not all stocks available all stores. Every effort is made to avoid errors in this publication, but Ted’s does not warrant the accuracy of the content of this publication and may correct any errors and may refuse to sell any product or service. Any Liability of Ted’s in respect of any part of this publication is negated to the extent permitted by law. And if liable Ted’s obligation is limited to resupply of the goods or services, or repair, or payment for customers doing so, as Ted’s chooses. Bonus products included at Ted’s normal price only.

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the insider > JETSTAR NEWS, ENTERTAINMENT AND MAPS

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> Keep up to date with Jetstar news and our StarKids charity. Plus, go behind the scenes with our staff profiles.

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> Heading from the airport to the city centre? Use our guide to find out the best way to get there by bus, train or taxi.

Jetstar news

STAFF Q+A. NAME JAMES MADDEN POSITION SENIOR MANAGER, COMMERCIAL & STRATEGY How long have you been with Jetstar and what does your role involve? > I’ve worked at Jetstar for seven years. I lead projects focused on improving our customer and people experience and manage the commercial arrangements with some of our strategic partners.

Why aviation?

> I have always been interested

in travel, airports and flying and wanted to work in an industry that’s challenging and evolving – aviation ticks all these boxes.

What is a typical work day?

> No day is the same. I could

EMPOWERING YOU TH THROUGH CULT URE StarKids and World Vision are helping Indigenous youth reconnect to their roots through programs like Young Mob.

> Young Janaya stands atop a boulder in the middle of outback

Northern Territory pointing into the distance while two of her friends look on. A few yards away, Lachlan is practising throwing a wooden spear that he learned how to carve.

Surrounding them, other Indigenous youth can be seen connecting with members from the Aboriginal Mutitjulu community against the backdrop of the mighty Uluru – the scene of this year’s Young Mob cultural exchange trip. The purpose of the Young Mob program is to offer Indigenous youth a rich cultural experience. The program gives them an opportunity to embrace their roots, gain perspective and take pride in their identity, and also serves as a stage to build leadership skills, self-esteem and confidence.

Indigenous youth, especially in urban areas, face many challenges and one of those challenges is cultural disconnection – culminating in misplaced identity, leaving them vulnerable and misunderstood.

“This experience makes you feel like you’re belonging and you’re more connected to your culture... it really grounds you,” says Jordan, a young Indigenous man from the Hunter Valley.

Mark, a Young Mob facilitator, was one of Young Mob’s first participants. “Growing up in Sydney, I didn’t really learn about my specific tribe and totems and culture,” he says. “Young Mob helped make me into the man I am today. It taught me things about how to behave in life and how to be a leader within my community,” adds Mark, a former school captain.

be travelling to one of our international ports to meet with the team, analysing customer or team member feedback, facilitating working group sessions or getting involved in new projects.

I love the variety.

What is the best thing about working at Jetstar? > The people. Every day I work with people from different cultural backgrounds and nationalities, all passionate about creating great experiences for our customers.

The travel isn’t too bad either!

If you could give one piece of advice for anyone wanting to join Jetstar, what would it be? > Be authentic. Be yourself.

T HE IN SIDER

CRACKING THE CODE What did the pilot say? Here are some fast facts to help you decipher the way your crew communicate. By Kaitlyn Palmer-Allen.

117

SECOND LANGUAGE

Hand signals Chimes and dings Did you know those chimes you hear in-flight help the crew communicate? All airlines use a different chiming system, but the meanings are mostly the same. After take-off, you’ll hear a “ding” once the plane reaches 10,000 feet, which tells the crew that passengers are free to move about the cabin.

When a crew member calls another section of the cabin, a different chime will also sound.

Likewise, you’ll hear a ding when a passenger pushes the call attendant button for assistance.

Before and after flight, ground crew may use body signals (called marshalling) to visually communicate with the pilot as an alternative to, or in addition to, radio communication. Simple hand signals can tell a pilot to turn the aircraft, slow down and even switch off the engines.

104 THE NUMBER OF YEARS IT HAS BEEN SINCE THE WORLD’S FIRST AIR-TO-GROUND VOICE TRANSMISSION TOOK PLACE AT BROOKLANDS, ENGLAND, IN 1915.

EXIT

Arm doors and cross check Ever wondered what it means when pilots ask the cabin crew to “arm doors and cross check”? When a door is armed, it has been locked with a lever and pin. If it is opened, an emergency slide or raft will automatically deploy. Cabin crew will arm the doors before take-off and disarm them after landing. As for “cross check”, this means another crew member has checked their handiwork.

English is the international language of flight. So why do pilots and air traffic control (ATC) sound like they’re speaking in code? In some ways, they are. The International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO) developed a highly structured vocabulary known as Aviation English to minimise communication errors. There’s a particular way to pronounce numbers like five and nine – “fife” and “niner” – and a phonetic alphabet replaces letters with words – A is Alfa, B is Bravo and C is Charlie. There are strict rules for interactions, too, such as having to repeat or “read back” instructions, while terms like “roger”, “wilco” and “pax” are just a few of some 300 words used by those who work around aircraft.

1067 THE NUMBER OF AIR TRAFFIC CONTROLLERS EMPLOYED BY AIRSERVICES AUSTRALIA IN 2018. THEY MANAGED AIR TRAFFIC CONDITIONS FOR MORE THAN 80 MILLION PASSENGERS.

AN AUSTRALIAN FIRST: JETSTAR BOUND DIRECT FOR BUSSELTON. > Jetstar is set to launch Australia’s first-ever commercial airline service

from the east coast to the Margaret River region, one of WA’s top travel destinations. Jetstar will commence the three-per-week (Monday, Wednesday and Saturday) service between Melbourne and Busselton from 25 March next year, giving travellers the opportunity to explore all that the Margaret River has to offer including award-winning restaurants, cafes, bistros and breweries and, of course, great wineries. The area is also famous for its pristine beaches, forests and walking trails. For more on Margaret River attractions, visit jetstar.com/busselton-margaret-river.

T HE IN SIDER

In-flight Entertainment —Take off into a world of entertainment – we’ve rounded up today’s most talked-about movies and TV shows, plenty of kids’ favourites, plus hit music and podcasts to keep you occupied throughout your flight— MORE THAN 60 MOVIES AND 500 TV EPISODES AVAILABLE

ONLY $13 BLOCKBUSTER MOVIES TV COMEDY AND DRAMA KIDS’ FAVOURITES HIT MUSIC PODCASTS

> NEW RELEASE MOVIES.

© 2019 WBEI

Pokémon: Detective Pikachu

Booksmart

Fantasy | PG Harry Goodman goes missing, prompting his son Tim to find out what happened.

Comedy | MA15+ On their graduation, two best friends cram four years of fun into one night.

© 2019 Paramount Pictures

Rocketman Drama | MA15+ About the incredible human story of Elton John’s breakthrough years.

© 2019 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation.

All rights reserved. MARVEL © 2019 MARVEL

© 2019 Disney/Pixar

X-Men: Dark Phoenix

Toy Story 4

Action | M Jean Grey is struck by a cosmic force that transforms her into the Dark Phoenix.

Animation | G Woody and the toys embark on a road trip, reuniting with Bo Peep.

RATINGS

© 2019 Disney 2019 CTMG, Inc. All rights reserved

Spider-Man: Far From Home Action | M Spider-Man must step up to take on new threats.

Aladdin (2019) Family | PG Aladdin is the tale of street rat Aladdin, Princess Jasmine and the Genie.

G General.

PG Parental guidance recommended.

M Recommended for mature audiences.

MA15+ Not suitable for people under 15.

Under 15s must be accompanied by a parent or adult guardian.

PRE-PURCHASE IN-FLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT WHEN YOU BOOK YOUR FLIGHTS AND SAVE!

119

© 2007 Walden Media, LLC. All rights reserved.

> NEW RELEASE MOVIES.

© 2018 CTMG, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Men In Black: International Sci-Fi | M The Men in Black tackle their biggest, most global threat to date: a mole.

> KIDS’ FLICKS. © 2019 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.

Stuber Comedy | MA15+ A detective recruits his Uber driver into an unexpected night of adventure.

© 2019 WBEI GODZILLA TM & © Toho Co., Ltd.

Godzilla: King of the Monsters

Fantastic Mr Fox Animation | PG Twelve years of quiet domesticity proves too much for Mr Fox’s wild instincts.

Mr Magorium’s Wonder Emporium Family | G Mr Magorium owns the most magical store.

Anastasia (1997)

Pan

Animation | G A girl heads to Paris, hoping to learn if she is the princess Anastasia.

Family | PG Peter is kidnapped by pirates and brought to the magical Neverland.

The Iron Giant

The Secret Life of Pets 2

Animation | PG Hogarth finds a huge metal-eating robot with an insatiable curiosity.

Animation | PG Terrier Max is coping with changes. His owner is now married and has a toddler. © 2008 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved. Dr. Seuss, Horton Hears A Who! and Dr. Seuss Characters TM & © 1954, 2008 Dr. Seuss Enterprises, L.P. All Rights Reserved.

Sci-Fi | M Follows the efforts of the agency Monarch as its members face monsters.

© 2019 Timboon Pty Ltd, Screen Queensland and Screen Australia

Danger Close: The Battle of Long Tan

Dr Seuss’ Horton Hears a Who!

Drama | M Major Harry Smith and his company of 108 soldiers are fighting for their lives.

Animation | G A kindly elephant discovers a civilization living on a speck of dust.

EN T ER TA IN MEN T

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> GAME ON.

© 2019 WBEI

© 2019 WBEI

© 2017 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation.

All rights reserved.

The Blind Side

Caddyshack

Battle of the Sexes

Sports | PG A burly teenager is transformed from a homeless street kid to a star athlete.

Comedy | M Danny goes for a scholarship.

But first he has to win the big golf tournament.

Sports | PG The 1973 tennis match between women’s champion Billie Jean King and ex-men’s champion Bobby Riggs.

© 2016 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation.

All rights reserved.

© 1983 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation.

All rights reserved.

© 2019 WBEI

All the Right Moves

Invictus

Sports | PG About Michael “Eddie” Edwards, a British ski-jumper who never stopped believing.

Sports | M A man in Pennsylvania dreams of using football as a way to move up in the world.

Sports | PG Nelson Mandela reaches out to Pienaar, captain of South Africa’s rugby team.

© 2016 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved. MARVEL TM & © 2016 MARVEL & Subs

Eddie the Eagle

> FOREIGN FILMS.

> HEROES & VILLAINS. X-Men: Apocalypse

X-Men: Days of Future Past

Fall In Love at First Kiss

Action | M The first mutant, Apocalypse, sees today’s mutants as weak.

Action | M A war for the survival of the species across two time periods.

Romance | PG Xiangqin develops a crush on Zhishu. Despite being rejected, things change.

> TELEVISION.

© 2016-2017 Fox and its related entities. All rights reserved.

Schitt’s Creek (Season 5)

Bob’s Burgers (Season 7)

Comedy | M We find the Roses at a crossroads between longing for the life they left behind and embracing the town they’ve reluctantly come to call home.

Comedy | M An animated series that follows the daily life of a working class man, Bob, and his ever-quirky family who, together, run the restaurant Bob’s Burgers.

© 2018-2019 American Broadcasting Companies. All rights reserved.

© 2019 WBEI

© 2019 WBEI TM & © DC Comics

© 2019 WBEI

Modern Family (Season 10)

Shrill (Season 1 )

DC’s Legends of Tomorrow (Season 4)

Riverdale (Season 3)

Comedy | PG Stars the PritchettDunphy-Tucker clan, a large and blended family.

Comedy | MA15+ Annie, a young woman, wants to change her life – but not her body.

Drama | M Sara and her team join Ava Sharpe and the Time Bureau to help.

Drama | M It’s Junior year and the gang is forced to think about their future.

Peppa Pig

Emma! (Season 2)

Kids | G Peppa Pig follows the adventures of Peppa, along with her family and friends.

Kids | G Opens up a whole new interactive and inclusive world to the pre-school viewer.

© 2019 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All rights reserved.

© 2019 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All rights reserved.

Gordon Ramsay: Uncharted

Secrets of the Zoo (Season 2)

Lifestyle | M Gordon Ramsay travels the globe in search of culinary inspiration.

Lifestyle | PG Behind-the-scenes access to one of America’s largest and most popular zoos.

EN T ER TA IN MEN T

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> MUSIC VIDEOS.

> ALBUMS.

Illy

Happiness Begins Jonas Brothers

Madame X (Deluxe) Madonna

GRAMMY® Awardnominated multi-platinum powerhouse trio the Jonas Brothers are back. Their highly anticipated album includes the smash single “Sucker”, along with more songs for fans of Nick, Joe and Kevin.

Influenced creatively by living in Lisbon, Portugal, over the past several years, Madonna has created a collection of 15 new songs that celebrate her career-long affair with Latin music and culture, as well as other global influences.

Best of The Lion King Various Artists

Licensed To Ill Beastie Boys

This musical collection celebrates the majesty of The Lion King from all the different Lion King-related projects. Included are songs from the original film, its sequels, the Broadway adaptation and the Rhythm of the Pride Lands album.

The debut studio album by the rock hip hop group.

Moshcam said: “It’s easy to look back at the 1986 version of the trio and label them purposeful geniuses...

But they were just a bunch of Jewish kids trying to make each other laugh.”

> PODCASTS & RADIO.

Aussies In Hollywood Adam Shand at Large Kyle & Jackie O Fast Track: Career Conversations with Margie Hartley Chrissie, Sam & Browny The Christian O’Connell Breakfast Show The Next Billion Seconds with Mark Pesce

New Hits Various The freshest new clips from today’s biggest artists featuring Lil Nas X, 5SOS, Illy, Guy Sebastian, The Chainsmokers & Bebe Rexha, Calvin Harris, Camila Cabello, Tom Walker & Zara Larsson, Billie Eilish and Shawn Mendes.

00s + 10s Various Millennium hits for you to enjoy featuring Justin Timberlake, George Ezra, Calvin Harris, Boy & Bear, Olly Murs, Justice Crew, P!NK, The Veronicas and Shannon Noll.

90s Various Daryl Braithwaite, Jennifer Lopez, George Michael, Will Smith, Jam & Spoon, Silverchair and Bryan Adams.

80s Various Featuring awesome 80s clips from John Farnham, The Pointer Sisters, Lisa Stansfield, Milli Vanilli, Altered Images, Ray Parker Jr, Whitney Houston and Bucks Fizz.

The Mentor with Mark Bouris The Property Couch Moonman in the Morning Lady Startup ChangeMakers with Amanda Tattersall No Filter: Mia Freedman with John Edward Crappy to Happy with Cass Dunn

The Big Questions with Adam Spencer A Plate To Call Home with Gary Mehigan The Coach with Paul Roos I Don’t Know How She Does It – Girls: Amna Karra-Hassan Hitched: You’re Engaged!

Now What?

SYDNEY. >

TAXI ABOUT $45

>

>

AIRPORT TO CIT Y Touching down in a new city?

Here's how to get to the centre of the action your way.

>

TIP...

The Experience WA smartphone app gives you access to the latest information on local tourist attractions, restaurants, accommodation, transport options and more.

> TIP...

Trains and buses from the airport start around 5am daily and end at midnight.

TAXI ABOUT $30

>

>

>

> BUS $5.80 While it does not head into the CBD, Route 400 operates between Bondi Junction in the city’s east and Burwood in the west.

You can catch the bus from outside the T1 International and T3 Domestic terminals.

>

TAXI ABOUT $40

BUS $4.80 Bus Route 380, which takes its name from the Airbus A380 aircraft, departs T1 and T2 and is a limited stops service, terminating at Elizabeth Quay Bus Station in the city centre.

For those travelling from T3 and T4, Route 40 operates daily between the airport and Elizabeth Quay Bus Station.

TRAIN $18.70 Catching a train into the city is easy and takes about 10 minutes. Grab the T8 Airport and South Line towards City Circle, which stops at Central Station.

ADELAIDE.

PERTH.

“I GET A FRIEND TO TRAVEL WITH ME...

I NEED SOMEBODY TO BRING ME BACK TO WHO I AM. IT’S HARD TO BE ALONE.” LEONARDO DiCAPRIO (AMERICAN ACTOR)

MELBOURNE. (TULLAMARINE)

BUS $10.40 (DAYTRIP) The JetBus and doubledecker JetExpress airport to city services depart the terminal from Sir Richard Williams Avenue and stop at Currie Street in the city centre. From there, it is just a short walk to Adelaide Oval, Rundle Mall and the city’s main train station on North Terrace.

> TIP...

If you are staying in the city of churches for the weekend, purchase a $25 Metrocard Visitor Pass.

The ticket gives tourists unlimited travel on buses, trains and trams across three consecutive days.

TAXI ABOUT $65

>

BUS $19.50 The Skybus Melbourne City Express departs the airport every 10 minutes and stops at the busy inner city Southern Cross Station. From there, you can catch another bus, train, tram or slip into a cab at the taxi stand located directly outside on Spencer Street.

> TIP...

Explore the CBD onboard the free City Circle tourist tram between 10am and 9pm from Thursday to Saturday and between 10am and 6pm from Sunday to Wednesday.

MELBOURNE. (AVALON)

> TAXI ABOUT $130 TO MELBOURNE, $50 TO GEELONG >

BUS $22 TO MELBOURNE, $18 TO GEELONG The SkyBus Avalon City Express takes about an hour to travel from Avalon Airport to Southern Cross Station in Melbourne CBD. If you are heading to Geelong, the SkyBus Avalon Geelong Express takes about 40 minutes to reach the port town.

> TIP...

Download the handy Avalon Airport smartphone app for information about transport, car hire, parking and flight schedules.

T HE IN SIDER

BRISBANE.

GOLD COAST.

LAUNCESTON.

>

>

>

TAXI ABOUT $45

> TRAIN $18.50 The Airtrain is a quick and easy option for travelling from the airport into the city. Trains depart every 15 minutes during peak hour and every 30 minutes during off-peak periods.

The Airtrain takes just 20 minutes to get to Central Station in the city centre.

The service starts at 5am on weekdays and 6am on weekends and the last train departs at 10pm. >

TIP...

Download the BNE app to help you find transport options, maps, where to dine and shop, parking information and more.

TAXI ABOUT $60

> BUS $21 The SkyBus Gold Coast Airport Shuttle operates seven days a week and is a dedicated service for visitors travelling from the airport to the Gold Coast’s most popular tourist spots. The shuttle departs from outside the airport terminal and stops at Burleigh Heads, Broadbeach, Surfers Paradise and Southport.

TAXI ABOUT $38

> “THE FIRST CONDITION OF UNDERSTANDING A FOREIGN COUNTRY IS TO SMELL IT.” RUDYARD KIPLING (ENGLISH WRITER)

BUS $15 The Airport Shuttlebus parks outside the entrance and waits for every incoming flight, or you can book online via their website. The friendly highvis vested drivers wait to drive you to hotels and motels in the CBD, which takes about 20 minutes.

> TIP...

The Apple Isle has some of the toughest biosecurity laws in the world, so make sure you check that fig, fish or ferret is cleared through customs before leaving even the mainland.

> TIP...

Gold Coast Cabs offer special flat rate fares from the airport to accommodation located in Surfers Paradise ($65) or Broadbeach ($55).

TOWNSVILLE.

BALLINA.

DARWIN.

>

> TAXI ABOUT $100 TO BYRON BAY

>

TAXI ABOUT $30

> BUS $10 The Townsville Shuttle Service meets all major flights seven days a week, and drives passengers to their hotel, motel or to the Sealink and Fantasea ferry terminals. Otherwise, you can also book online via their website shuttletsv. com.au. > TIP...

Don’t be caught shortchanged. If grabbing a taxi, keep a spare $3 in your pocket for the Airport Toll, which goes towards upgrades such as CCTV, kerb front facilities and taxi waiting areas.

“I’VE ALWAYS LOVED OSAKA WITH ITS LITTLE STREETS AND ALLEYWAYS.” SAM STOSUR (AUSTRALIAN TENNIS PLAYER)

125

>

BUS $7.20 The Route 640 bus from Ballina Airport takes close to an hour to make the 37-kilometre journey to the popular beachside town of Byron Bay.

> TIP...

If you prefer to have your transport organised and booked in advance, check out the Ballina Byron Gateway Airport website for information about shuttle bus services.

For those who want to explore and find their own way, all major car rental companies are represented at the airport.

TAXI ABOUT $30

>

BUS PRICE ON BOOKING The Darwin City Airport Shuttle Service is available seven days a week to take you from the airport to your accommodation in the city. The shuttle departs every 20 minutes during peak period and services all major flights to the airport. Online bookings must be made 24 hours in advance.

> TIP...

If you are staying at the Mercure Darwin Airport Resort or Novotel Darwin Airport Hotel, a free shuttle bus service is available for transfer from the terminal to your accommodation.

BALI. >

TOKYO. (NARITA AIRPORT)

TAXI ABOUT $7 TO KUTA

>

>

BUS $2 There are a range of bus options to choose from but a popular choice is the bright green Kura-Kura tourist bus, which stops at most major locations across the island. The closest departure point to the airport is outside the Aston Kuta Hotel, which is a brisk 16-minute walk from the terminal.

“ADVENTURE IS WORTHWHILE IN ITSELF.” AMELIA EARHART (AMERICAN AVIATION PIONEER AND AUTHOR)

HO CHI MINH CITY. >

TAXI ABOUT $10

> BUS $1 The Route 109 bus departs the airport every 15 to 20 minutes between 5.30am and 1am. The bus travels to the city centre (District 1), terminating at 23/9 Park via Pham Ngu Lao backpacker district and the Ben Thanh bus station.

Travel time depends on traffic, but the yellow bus generally takes about 30 minutes to reach the city. > TIP...

Show the name of your hotel to the bus conductor so the driver can tell you where to get off. It is also handy to have a map available on your phone.

TAXI ABOUT $250

>

>

TRAIN $37 The Narita Express or N’EX departs every 25 to 40 minutes and takes under an hour to reach Tokyo Station. Buy your ticket at JR EAST Travel Service Centers, which are located inside each of the three airport terminals.

> BUS $11 The Keisei group’s Tokyo Shuttle takes 90 minutes to reach the city centre near Tokyo Station.

> TIP...

Knowing how to say a few phrases in the local lingo can go a long way in Bali.

To ask a local to help you call for a taxi, try saying, “Bisa tolong untuk telepon dan order taksi?”

> TIP...

Grab the free shuttle to travel between the airport’s three terminals.

SINGAPORE. >

> BUS $9 The City Shuttle bus departs every 15 minutes during peak periods and every 30 minutes during off-peak. The trip to the city takes 25 minutes and stops at most major hotels. >

TIP...

Save your roaming budget and connect to the free Wi-Fi at Changi Airport.

TAXI ABOUT $40

> TRAIN $10.40 The Maglev train runs from 6.30am to 9.45pm and reaches Longyang Road Subway Station in a speedy eight minutes. >

BUS $5 Catch the Airport Line 5 bus to the main Shanghai Railway Station. It leaves every 15-25 minutes from 6.30am to 11pm.

> TIP...

Use Google Translate and write your name in Mandarin on paper to make it easier for taxi drivers to understand.

PHNOM PENH. (PHNOM PENH INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT)

TAXI ABOUT $35

> TRAIN $2 The Changi Airport MRT Station (CG2) is located under Terminal 2. Take the train to Tanah Merah station and change to the East West Line heading towards City Hall.

SHANGHAI. (SHANGHAI PUDONG INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT)

“SOMETIMES IT’S THE JOURNEY THAT TEACHES YOU A LOT ABOUT YOUR DESTINATION.” DRAKE (AMERICAN MUSICIAN)

>

TAXI ABOUT $18

>

BUS $7.40 The KK Star Airport Bus departs from the busy Russian Federation Boulevard located in front of the airport carpark.

From there, it’s a 30 to 60 minute trip to the city.

> TRAIN $3.70 The Shuttle Train chugs off every 30 minutes from the airport, taking passengers to the city centre. > TIP...

Download the Pass App from which you can order taxis and tuk tuks and get an estimated fare.

A IRP O R T T O CI T Y

AUCKLAND. >

TAXI ABOUT $60

> BUS $16 The SkyBus departs the airport every 10 minutes and takes approximately 55 minutes to arrive in the centre of Auckland.

Alternatively, Super Shuttle can take you straight to your accommodation for $23 for the first passenger and $9 for every extra passenger travelling in the same group. >

TIP...

The Auckland Transport mobile app makes it easy to move around the city.

Download the app to help you plan and track AT Metro buses, trains and ferry services in real time.

QUEENSTOWN. >

TAXI ABOUT $25

> BUS $5 The Orbus departs the airport every 15 minutes and takes approximately 25 minutes to reach the town centre. For $13, you can opt to share an 11-seater Super Shuttle for a convenient, tailored door-to-door journey from Queenstown Airport to your accommodation. > TIP...

If your accommodation is anywhere in the centre of Queenstown, you can simply rely on foot power to get around – most things in the adventure capital are within easy walking distance.

BANGKOK.

127

HAWAII.

(BANGKOK INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT)

(DANIEL K INOUYE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT)

>

> TAXI ABOUT $61 TO WAIKIKI

TAXI ABOUT $25

>

TRAIN $7 The Airport Rail Link departs every 15 minutes between 6am to midnight and is about 30 minutes to Makkasan Station in the heart of Bangkok.

>

BUS $7.20 The Route AE-4 Shuttle Bus goes from Bangkok Airport to the bus interchange in central Bangkok near Hua Lumphong train station.

> TIP...

Avoid offers for rides from hawkers. Your best bet is to order a cab from the Taxi Kiosks instead.

>

BUS $4 Routes 19 and 20 depart from the second-level roadway at Honolulu Airport and stop off at downtown Honolulu, Ala Moana Shopping Centre and the hotel-dense Waikiki precinct.

> TIP...

Taxi drivers are referred to as “ambassadors of aloha”.

They are proud of their island and love pointing out landmarks and places of interest. Ask questions – you never know what local secrets you might learn.

W HE RE W E F LY Here’s how to get around our network – have fun planning your next trip.

INTERNATIONAL. Seoul

Shanghai (Pudong) Guiyang

Tho Xuan Vinh Dong Hoi

Da Nang Siem Reap Bangkok Phnom Penh

Penang Medan

Nagoya (Chubu)

Okinawa

Shantou/Jieyang Hong Kong Haikou

Chiang Mai

Phuket

Osaka (Kansai)

Taipei

Guangzhou Hanoi

Yangon

Tokyo (Narita)

Xuzhou

Zhengzhou

Hawaii (Honolulu)

Clark

Manila

Ho Chi Minh City

Phu Quoc

Kuala Lumpur

Singapore Jakarta Surabaya

Bali (Denpasar) Darwin Fiji (Nadi)

Cairns

Cook Islands (Rarotonga)

Brisbane

Gold Coast

Perth

Sydney Adelaide

Flights are operated by Jetstar Airways and commence 8 December (Gold Coast– Seoul), subject to regulatory approval Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Jetstar Asia Operated by Jetstar Pacific Operated by Jetstar Japan

Auckland

Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Wellington Christchurch Queenstown

T HE IN SIDER

DOMESTIC VIETNAM.

129

DOMESTIC JAPAN.

Hanoi Sapporo

Hai Phong Thanh Hoa Vinh

Shonai

Dong Hoi Nagoya (Chubu)

Hue Da Nang Chu Lai

Matsuyama Osaka Fukuoka Takamatsu Nagasaki Oita Kochi Kumamoto Miyazaki Kagoshima

Quy Nhon

Pleiku

Tokyo (Narita) (Kansai)

Tuy Hoa Buon Ma Thuot Nha Trang Da Lat

Okinawa

Ho Chi Minh City

Phu Quoc

Miyako (Shimojishima)

Operated by Jetstar Pacific

Operated by Jetstar Japan

AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND.

Auckland Napier

New Plymouth Darwin

Nelson Cairns Townsville Hamilton Whitsunday Coast Island Mackay

Queenstown

Christchurch Dunedin

Operated by Jetstar Airways

Sunshine Coast

Ayers Rock (Uluru)

Brisbane Gold Coast

Palmerston North Wellington

Operated by Eastern Australia Airlines for Jetstar Airways

Continuation of routes subject to consultation

Ballina Byron

Perth

Newcastle Busselton Margaret River

Sydney

Adelaide

Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Auckland

Melbourne (Avalon)

Flights are operated by Jetstar Airways and commence 25 March 2020 (Melbourneâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Busselton Margaret River), subject to regulatory approval Operated by Jetstar Airways

Wellington

Launceston Hobart

Christchurch Queenstown

PUZZLES 1

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© Lovatts Puzzles

PICTURE A

PICTURE B

QUIZ 1 Donna Freedman, Harley Quinn and Tonya Harding are all characters that have been played by which Australian actress?

2 Which South-East Asian nation is home to the 120-kilometre-long Tonlé Sap river?

3 What word describes mammals with a special multi-chambered stomach (such as cattle, goats and giraffes)?

CROSSWORD Across 7 Bacon slice (6) 8 Handsome Greek god (6) 9 Name of actor in picture A (3,6) 11 Unsurpassed cricketing great, Don ... (7) 12 Lends a hand (5) 14 Bangs (toe) (5) 16 Lavishly appointed (7) 18 First name of picture B (9) 21 First name of picture C (6) 22 Bass or lead (6) Down 1 Cookbook legend, ... Fulton (8) 2 Sounded alike (6) 3 Verbal exam (4) 4 The X Factor winner and Eurovision contestant, ... Im (4) 5 Whipped dessert (6) 6 African pride animal (4) 10 Venice canal boat (7) 13 Precise regarding time (8) 15 UK’s EU withdrawal (6) 17 Long-serving SBS journalist, ... Chin (3,3) 18 Basketball shot, ... dunk (4) 19 Aussie PM who famously disappeared in 1967, Harold ... (4) 20 Imminent (4)

PICTURE C

4 At what point in degrees Celsius is the temperature equal to degrees Fahrenheit?

5 How many numbers are arranged around the outside of a standard dartboard?

6 What did Chad Hurley, Steve Chen and Jawed Karim create in February 2005?

7 What is the commonly used name for the joint Australian-US satellite surveillance base located south-west of Alice Springs, NT?

CROSSWORD AND PUZZLES COMPILED BY LOVATTS

8 How many different animal signs appear in the Chinese zodiac?

9 Which two planets are the only two in our solar system that do not rotate counter-clockwise?

10 Cross Counter won the Melbourne Cup in 2018. Who was the jockey?

11 American actress Debbie Reynolds was the mother of which Star Wars star (pictured far right)?

12 True or false: Darwin, NT, is closer to Jakarta in Indonesia than it is to Canberra in the ACT.

T HE IN SIDER

131

SUDOKU

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WHEEL WORDS

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13 According to the Macquarie Dictionary, what is the collective noun for a group of ravens?

14 “A Toyota’s a Toyota”, “Borrow or rob?” and “Never odd or even” are examples of what?

15 Which famous US basketball player starred alongside Bugs Bunny in the 1996 film Space Jam? 16 In author John Marsden’s Tomorrow series, a group of teenagers wage a guerrilla war against invaders in which fictional Australian town?

Create words of 4 letters or more using the given letters once only, but always including the middle letter. Do not use proper names or plurals ending with S. See if you can find the 9-letter word using up all letters.

22 good

28 very good

36+ excellent

17 True or False: Snug, Flowerpot and Nook are all place names in Tasmania.

18 What type of animal is the mischievous cartoon character Blinky Bill, created by author and illustrator Dorothy Wall?

19 In which country was the first deep space station built outside the United States?

20 Century, hat-trick and walking wicket are terms used in which sport?

SOLUTIONS ON PAGE 134

Find the solutions on page 134.

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What did one snowman say to the other?

Can you smell carrots?

7

Because her coach was a pumpkin.

8

1

How does Ant-Man stop his suit getting wrinkled?

2

6

With the help of Iron Man.

4

Where do bees go to the bathroom?

The BP station.

Because it wasn’t peeling well.

What’s the shortest month?

9

6

9

STA IRS ST U DY T IL ES TOIL E T WAR DR O BE W IN D O WS

1

1

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8 SO URCE: FU NKIDS JOKES.C O M

Thunderpants.

Why did the banana go to the doctor?

BAT H BEDR O O M BL IN D S C ARPE T C U RTA INS DININ G R O O M D O O RS EN T RY F OYER G A MES R O O M G AR AG E K I TC HEN L AU N DRY L IG H TS LO U N G E R O O M PA N T RY PIC T U RES

2

Why wasn’t Cinderella good at netball?

What does a cloud wear under its raincoat?

Find all the words listed hidden in the grid of letters. They can be found in straight lines up, down, forwards, backwards or even diagonally.

1

8

2 3

4

7 6

1

5

3

May – it only has three letters.

P U ZZLES

133

Can you spot the EIGHT DIFFERENCES between these two images? Circle what’s changed on the image below.

1 LIONS Test your knowledge with these super fun, totally awesome trivia questions.

1 On which continent do lions live?

2 Approximately how many cubs does a lioness give birth to at once?

3 True or false: in a pride, the lionesses do the majority of the hunting?

2 MARS 1 What is Mars’s nickname?

2 How many moons does Mars have?

3 A year on Mars is as long as a year on Earth.

4 Is Mars bigger or smaller than Earth?

3 GENERAL KNOWLEDGE 1 What is the front of a boat called?

2 Which two colours are used on Japan’s flag?

3 On which mythical island does Peter Pan live?

4 How many minutes are there in a day?

134

P U ZZLES

SOLUTIONS CROSSWORD

O D R M A R A S H E R M Y A R G M E L G I O E A B R A D M A N D E O P S T U B S L R S T E P H A N O I X L G D A N I E L H T T M

L M D O N I S U O B S O N S H E L P S U U L E N T C E T I E U L U I T A R L N

WHEEL WORDS Bide, Bier, Bode, Bore, Bred, Brew, Brie, Dire, Doer, Drew, Owed, Redo, Ride, Robe, Rode, Weir, Wide, Wire, Wore, Bored, Borer, Bowed, Bower, Bribe, Bride, Brier, Direr, Dower, Drier, Orbed, Order, Rebid, Rider, Robed, Rowed, Rower, Weird, Wider, Wired, Wirer, Wrier, Birder, Border, Boride, Bribed, Briber, Reword, Ribbed, Robbed, Robber, Weirdo, Rowdier, Wordier, Worried.

9-letter word: BOWERBIRD

QUIZ 1 Margot Robbie 2 Cambodia 3 Ruminant 4 -40 5 20 6 YouTube 7 Pine Gap 8 12 9 Venus and Uranus 10 Kerrin McEvoy

11 Carrie Fisher 12 True 13 Unkindness 14 Palindromes 15 Michael Jordan 16 Wirrawee 17 True 18 Koala 19 Australia 20 Cricket

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Š Lovatts Puzzles

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1 The cord above the bed is missing.

2 The pyjamas are a different colour.

3 There are extra books on the shelf.

4 The half moon on the wall is missing.

5 The light on the planet mobile is a different colour.

6 The pattern on the bed sheets is missing.

SUDOKU 3

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7 There is an extra mat under the table.

8 The tree at the right end of the table is missing.

Lions

Mars

General Knowledge

1 Africa

1 The red planet

1 The bow

2 2-3 cubs

2 Two

2 Red and white

3 True

3 Twice

3 Neverland

4 Smaller (about

4 1440

half the size)

Untitled-1 1

13/5/19 9:47 am

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136

T HE IN SIDER

HIGHER. BIGGER. FASTER. LONGER. > An industrial port isn’t where you’d expect to lay eyes on the world’s largest outdoor mural – but that’s exactly where you’ll find it.

In the bustling South Korean city of Incheon, about 27 kilometres south-west of Seoul, an enormous concrete silo has been transformed into a colourful work of art. The massive structure-turned-canvas is made up of 16 containers, each measuring 48 metres tall and, together, stretching 180 metres across Inner Port’s Pier 7.

The entire painting covers 23,689 square metres, which is about the same area as 56 basketball courts. In 2018, the mural’s gigantic proportions earned it a spot in the Guinness World Records, outstripping the previous record holder – the Pueblo Levee Project in the United States – by more than 7000 square metres.

The mural is so big that the 22 artists who worked on it used more than 850,000 litres of paint.

The completed design draws inspiration from the bookshelf-like shape of the silo. It features 16 book covers with titles that reflect the four seasons and tell the story of a boy’s journey into adulthood.

Incheon’s local government and port authority commissioned the $712,000 painting in a bid to inject colour into the aged industrial area.

It’s also hoped the mural will boost visitors to nearby Wolmi Island, where the Wolmi Observatory is an ideal spot to view the artwork.

W O R D S _ K A I T LY N PA L M E R-A L L E N

IMAGE_ GUINNESS WORLD RECORDS

48M

EACH ISSUE WE FOCUS ON A PL ACE PU NCHING ABOVE ITS WEIG H T