Jetstar Australia Magazine — OCT 2019

OCT 2019

MAGAZINE

IC E F IS H I N G A N D S N O W L O V I N G I N S A PP O R O

MAGAZINE

F R EE T O TA K E H O M E

T HE T HRILL OF T HAIL AND’S M UAY T HAI BOXING

BY R O N B AY’S BES T B R U N C H SP O T S

JOIN T HE

FU N M A R INE T O UR S T R E A S UR E HUN T S

YO G A T IME

C O O K IN G C L A S S E S

C IR C U S S C H O O L S

MAGIC WORKSHOPS

OCT 2019

...say hello to the new breed of amazing kids’ clubs

VIETNAM

DARWIN

WELL IN G T O N

SYDNEY

K ANGAROO ISL AND

FIJI

SEOUL

HAWAII

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-YO

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PI Z

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T S A A .

P V .

FA VOU RITE LOCA

I L A T I L

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A DVER T ISEMEN T

OCT 2019

CONTENTS

the traveller W HERE T O G O N E X T

the checklist ALL T HE T R AVEL IN T EL YO U NEED N O W

0 1 8 7 M Y T H S A B O U T...

Darwin, NT.

0 2 0 T W O S I D E S O F...

Sydney.

0 2 2 T H E C H A L L E N G E:

Where can you find the best flat white in Melbourne?

0 24 TR AVEL H ACK

Top tips for keeping in shape from celeb personal trainers.

046 B E S T K I D S’ C L U B S We track down 14 fantastic resort clubs for the littlies.

0 2 6 P O S T C A R D F R O M ...

Arrowtown, New Zealand.

0 2 9 T R A V E L T R E N D : G R A MPIN G

Seniors are taking their grandkids on the road with them.

0 3 2 H A C K: H O L I D AY I N G

WITH KIDS

Letting children in on the planning will make a better trip.

035 TECH

The latest gadgets, apps, news and technology tips.

0 3 8 TR AVEL NE W S

All the updates, info and events from around our network.

042 CALENDAR

Comedy, circus acts and singing – what not to miss this month.

058 SAPPORO I cy adventures in this Japanese winter wonderland.

008

C O N T EN T S

066 KANGAROO ISLAND his rugged, beautiful T island will appeal to those born to be wild.

the cut T H E BES T OF W H ERE T O E AT, D R IN K A N D PL AY

0 9 0 E A T + D R I N K : B Y R O N B AY Breakfast, lunch and dinner hotspots at this beachside mecca.

0 9 8 H A P P Y H O U R S : WELLINGTON

The best of Kiwi cocktails, wine and beer in the NZ capital.

1 0 3 A N AT O M Y OF A DIS H Enjoy sweet and spice and all things nice with Pad Thai.

104 EXPERIENCE

068

076

PHUKET

HOBART

Learning the ancient martial art of Muay Thai in Patong, Thailand, proves to be a cultural revelation.

Mind-blowing experiences

for kids in Tasmania’s capital (don’t tell them but they’ll learn a lot too!).

Bushwalking goes luxe at the Murray River.

107 FOOD TRENDS The latest weirdly wonderful food craze involves the humble carrot.

1 0 8 M Y P L A C E:

PORT DOUGLAS

Actor and comedian Stephen Curry on his slice of paradise.

111 FASHION

Colour your kids’ world with this fab new-season gear.

the insider JE T S TA R N E W S, M AP S A N D EN T ER TA IN MEN T

1 1 4 JE T S TA R N E W S 1 17 EN T ER TA IN M EN T 122 AIRPORT TO CITY 1 2 6 W H E R E W E FLY 128 GAMES + PUZZLES 1 3 6 H I G H E R , BI G G E R ,

082 SEOUL Baths, BBQs and karaoke: this South Korean capital never sleeps.

F A S T E R , LO N G E R

Spend less time getting there & more time being there.

Flying direct into the newly upgraded terminal at Ballina Byron Gateway Airport means you can take-off as soon as you land and enjoy your holiday sooner.

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E DITOR I A L .

CONTRIBUTORS.

EDITOR Jacqueline Lunn

EDITORIAL INQUIRIES

DEPUTY EDITOR Sudeshna Ghosh

EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Rachel Gray

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jon Gregory DESIGNER Lisa Emmanuel CHIEF SUBEDITOR Nick Hadley SUBEDITOR Deborah Grunfeld PHOTOGRAPHIC EDITOR Nicola Sevitt

Suite 58, 26-32 Pirrama Road, Pyrmont, NSW 2009 P (02) 8114 8944 E jetstar.editorial@mediumrarecontent.com

MANAGING EDITOR, JETSTAR Simon Tsang

A DVERT I S I N G .

HEAD OF SALES, TRAVEL AND LUXURY

VIC GROUP SALES MANAGER

Tony Trovato | (02) 8114 8920

Belinda Morton | (03) 9292 1159

NATIONAL ADVERTISING MANAGER

VIC ACCOUNT MANAGER

AND CLIENT PARTNER

Brittany Groth | (03) 9292 3180

Anne Jacqueline Paul | (03) 9292 1817

WA & SA STATE MANAGER

NSW SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER

Gloria Karageorge | 0424 034 430

Andre Hammond-Parker | (02) 8114 7626

QLD & NT ACCOUNT MANAGER

NSW ACCOUNT MANAGER

Kasia Brzezicka | 0447 383 072

Anthony Sullivan | (02) 8114 8954

NEW ZEALAND BUSINESS

NSW ADVERTISING SALES COORDINATOR

DEVELOPMENT MANAGER

Emily Whelan | (02) 8114 8643

Stuart Tovey | +64 21 711 606

RACHAEL OAKES-ASH A travel and ski writer for over 15 years, Rachael, having written for the likes of Condé Nast Traveller and Time, shows us around “her winter home”, New Zealand’s Arrowtown (p. 26). “It’s one of my favourite under-the-radar villages,” she says.

VIC & QLD ADVERTISING DIRECTOR

Chris Joy | (03) 9292 3207

M EDIUM R A R E C O N T E N T A G E N C Y. MANAGING DIRECTOR Gerard Reynolds DIRECTOR Sally Wright CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Fiorella Di Santo HEAD OF CONTENT, TRAVEL AND LUXURY Kirsten Galliott DIGITAL DIRECTOR Karla Courtney MULTIMEDIA DIRECTOR Shannon O’Meara SOCIAL DIRECTOR Scott Drummond STRATEGY DIRECTOR Lyndsey Long FINANCE MANAGER Leslie To

Jetstar magazine is published monthly and is complimentary to domestic and international passengers. Published for Jetstar Airways

by Medium Rare Content Agency (ABN 83 169 879 921), Suite 58/26-32 Pirrama Road, Pyrmont, NSW 2009. ©2019. All rights reserved.

Printed by Ovato Print Pty Ltd. Paper fibre is from sustainably managed forests and controlled sources. No responsibility is accepted for unsolicited material. Articles express the opinions of the authors and not necessarily those of Jetstar Airways or Medium Rare Content Agency. For a copy of Medium Rare Content Agency’s Privacy Policy, visit mediumrarecontent.com. ISSN 1443-2013.

We want you to know that at Jetstar our writers are not armchair travellers.

Any assistance we do accept from the travel industry to produce our stories does not compromise the integrity of our coverage.

For flight reservations jetstar.com For hotel bookings and holiday packages jetstar.com/hotels jetstar.com/holidays

DAVID ALLEGRETTI Melbourne-based writer David has worked as a freelance journalist for six years for publications like VICE, Junkee and The Age. This month, he heads to Patong in Phuket to try his hand (and legs) at Muay Thai boxing (p. 68).

ALEXIS BUXTON-COLLINS An avid hiker, Adelaide-based former music journo Alexis loves nothing more than setting out with a backpack and a tent. But in this issue he finds a more luxurious way to experience the Australian landscape (p. 104).

CEO’S LE T T ER

Towards cleaner skies > Hope you’re enjoying your flight with us today.

Air travel helps to make people from around the world more connected and economies thrive.

In the last year alone, more than 1000 airlines flew a staggering 4.4 billion people, which represented an increase of 6.9 per cent on the previous year.

With more people flying every year, the airline industry was one of the first to introduce an ambitious target for carbon emissions – committing to reduce emissions by 50 per cent by 2050.

At Jetstar we take this pledge seriously.

We’re constantly reviewing our flight paths to make sure they are the most efficient as well as thinking of ways to reduce the weight we carry on board.

We invest in the latest fuel-efficient aircraft, like the 21 modern Airbus A321neo LR that will use 15 per cent less fuel when they enter service with Jetstar from next year.

On top of these efforts, the Qantas Group – which includes Jetstar – recently announced its ambition to become the world’s first airline group to reuse, recycle and compost at least three-quarters of its general waste by the end of 2021.

FIRST RECYCL ING FL IG H T, MARCH 2019

“T HIS M O N T H WE’RE CHANGING T HE PL ASTIC SLEEVES ARO U ND O UR BL ANKETS FOR A PAPER EC O-WR AP.” Our teams are working hard behind the scenes on things like replacing tens of millions of plastic cups, cutlery sets and coffee cups with green alternatives.

We’ve already eliminated single-use plastics like straws and this month we’re changing the plastic sleeves around our blankets for a paper eco-wrap.

We have removed unnecessary paper including operational manuals by going digital and more than one third of our customers now check in with a digital boarding pass.

Our passengers help too. We offer a Fly Carbon Neutral Program, where you can offset the carbon dioxide your flight produces and be a part of our mission to create greener future skies. Contributions go to verified carbon offset projects, like protecting over 7000 hectares of native Tasmanian forest and partnering with Indigenous land owners in the Kimberley on using traditional fire management techniques to reduce wildfire emissions.

These are just some of the ways we’re working to innovate and improve in this space and with the help of manufacturers, airports and other airlines, we will continue to work to reduce our operation’s footprint.

Thanks for choosing Jetstar. I hope to see you on board soon.

G ARE T H E VA N S CEO, JE T S TA R G R O U P

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the checklist > ALL THE TRAVEL INTEL YOU NEED NOW

H OL IDAY SIN FI G AP T NES O RE S PA G E

026 024 DAR W IN

PA G E

> The winner of this year’s Darwin Beer Can Regatta was Junior Balik, a vessel made from 2,500 cans.

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SY D NE Y

PA G E

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> 96 steam locomotives were used to test the strength of the Sydney Harbour Bridge before its opening in 1932.

ARR O W TO W N

PA G E

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> Gold was discovered in this New Zealand town in 1862 and by the end of the year 340kg had been unearthed.

7 M Y T H S AB O U T...

Darwin —It’s known for roving crocs, giant stubbies and a steamy climate but Peta Murray says there’s much more to this multicultural city and tropical paradise—

MYTH #1 Darwin is the hottest place in Australia > While Darwin may hold the title of sweatiest city among its state capital counterparts, it doesn’t even tap the top 50 when it comes to hottest towns in the country. Based on maximum average temperatures, Darwin hovers around 32°C, while Wyndham in Western Australia scores highest with the mercury slam-dunking a scorching maximum average temperature of 35.6°C.

MYTH #3 MYTH #2 Cyclone Tracy was the biggest cyclone ever to hit Australia > Although it was responsible for the loss of 71 lives and decimated more than 70 per cent of Darwin when it struck on Christmas Eve 1974, Tracy is actually the “most compact” tropical cyclone on national record, with gale-force winds extending only 48 kilometres from its centre. Tracy’s terrifying power can be experienced in the cyclone simulator at the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory.

You can’t surf the city beaches > It may not resemble a scene from The Endless Summer but a dedicated band of diehard Darwin surfers paddle out whenever the monsoonal swells kick in – generally around 12 times in a “good year”.

The best breaks are at northern beaches Nightcliff and Casuarina and around the exposed reef at the mouth of Rapid Creek.

T H E C H ECKL IS T

019

“N OT E VERYO NE WA N TS TO D O DAR W IN L IKE MICK D U N DEE.”

MYTH #6

MYTH #4 There’s nowhere safe to swim > While saltwater crocodiles and dangerous stingers like box jellyfish and Irukandji pose a threat in the ocean, there are plenty of swimming holes around Darwin where it is perfectly safe to take a dip in the dry season (June to September). Alternatively, two man-made beaches in the Waterfront Precinct – the Wave Lagoon and Recreation Lagoon – offer family friendly swimming all year round.

MYTH #5 The Japanese invaded during World War II > Blame Baz Luhrmann’s 2008 blockbuster Australia for perpetuating this myth.

Claiming historical basis, the movie shows Japanese troops storming the shores of a fictitious Mission Island (intended to represent the Tiwi Islands, 80 kilometres north of Darwin). While the Japanese did conduct two air raids on Darwin Harbour on 19 February 1942 – which killed around 250 people – Japanese troops never landed in the Top End.

Darwin has no culture > With more than 20 museums and art galleries, as well as independent exhibitions, a thriving theatre scene, the outdoor Deckchair Cinema and a throng of colourful markets (including the must-do Mindil Beach Sunset Markets), Darwin offers enough to keep even the most ardent culture lovers and history buffs happy.

MYTH #7 You’ll have to rough it > Not everyone wants to do Darwin like Mick Dundee.

Five-star options include Hilton Darwin (hilton.com), offering harbour views in the heart of the city, and the Mindil Beach Casino Resort (mindilbeachcasinoresort. com.au), which boasts four restaurants and a private beach set among tropical gardens.

Further afield, glamping doesn’t get any grander than Bamurru Plains safari lodge (greengetaways. com.au) on the edge of Kakadu National Park or the Wildman Wilderness Lodge (wildman wildernesslodge. com.au) in the Mary River wetlands.

AND 3 TRUTHS The world’s largest stubby is off the menu > Created in 1958, the iconic “Darwin stubby” held the equivalent of six regular stubbies of NT Draught and quickly became part of territory folklore. It was later downsized slightly to a two-litre bottle and while production ceased in 2015, the Darwin stubby remains a symbol of the Top End. The city was named after British evolutionist Charles Darwin > While Charles himself never set foot in the city, it was indeed christened in honour of the famous naturalist. The moniker was bestowed by his former shipmate Lieutenant John Stokes, the first European to observe Port Darwin in 1839.

Crocodiles cruise the town > A protected species since 1971, saltwater crocodiles have increased in numbers and it’s estimated that there are currently up to 200,000 “salties” in the Top End. But while crocs can sometimes be found in unusual places, Northern Territory rangers are vigilant in trapping the reptiles before they pose any threat to people.

S N APS H O T JAKE C O OTES

Wentworth Common Get blissfully dizzy walking or pedalling to the centre of this spiralling pathway for views of the wetlands, Homebush Bay and the city skyline from the top of the Bay Marker lookout.

Two sides

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@ SG.JP G

T H E C H ECKL IS T

of Sydney

Ken Rosewall Arena Look left, look right, look left again as you watch balls served up by the world’s best tennis players at this 10,000-capacity stadium at Sydney Olympic Park.

T H E C H ECKL IS T

Mary Miller

T HE C H ALLEN GE

—Melburnian coffee lover Larissa Dubecki goes on a mission to seek out the best flat white in the city that prides itself on its caffeine addiction. She reports back while bouncing off the walls of her office— S O U T H M EL B O U R N E

> The journey begins with an existential question: what exactly is a flat white?

Is it just a cappuccino in witness protection? Is it a cafe latte for people who don’t want their Italian accent mocked? Our oracle is St Ali (stali. com.au), one of the pioneers of the third-wave caffeine revolution that put Melbourne on the global coffee map. “A flat white is pretty much the same as a latte – a little stronger but also less froth,” says the barista at the South Melbourne flagship store as she pours a St Ali Orthodox: a darkroasted, old-school blend that tastes like semi-dark chocolate fell in love with a Milky Way bar and decided to make a hot drink.

Monk Bodhi Dharma

BALACLAVA

> It has to be done but a visit to the suburban café (monkbodhidharma. com) that won notoriety last year for serving a $150 coffee doesn’t necessarily involve taking out a second mortgage to enjoy a brew made of José Alfredo #227 from a limited run of Panamanian beans.

I splash out nonetheless on a $7 flat white made with the house Disciple Roasters blend and their own housemade almond milk. Mmm, nutty.

Axil

HAW THORN

> “The customers who order their coffee hot but not too hot are the worst,” confides the brightly tattooed barista at this landmark roastery and café (axilcoffee.com.au) as he pours a super-silken number at a temperature that Baby Bear would have declared just right – had he been allowed to drink coffee. Meanwhile, controversy

erupts at the table. “The flat white was definitely invented in New Zealand,” says my Kiwi mate as we get stuck into a cross-Tasman slanging match invoking the names of Russell Crowe, Phar Lap and Neil Finn.

Brunetti

F I T ZR OY N O R T H

> Fun fact: by law, school drop-off in Melbourne necessitates coffee at the nearest café. Well, not really, but after surviving rock band assembly I think it should be a legal imperative to restore energy levels at my cute neighbourhood café in Fitzroy North (marymiller.com.au).

The flat white and my friend’s cafe latte arrive in identical black ceramic cups looking like monozygotic twins but the waitress doesn’t blink.

“Who ordered the flat white?” she asks valiantly. Verdict: nice try on the interchangeable language but too heavy on the milk for a true Melbourne coffee aficionado.

FL I N D ER S L A N E

> In honour of the Italian immigrants who brought real espresso to Melbourne c. 1930, it’s off to the swank new Flinders Lane premises of Carlton stalwarts Brunetti (brunetti. com.au) and its metal-clad coffee counter. There’s no table service, alas.

You give your order and wait for the ticket to be called. It’s probably the only thing here that doesn’t scream la dolce vita – because everything from the looped film of Anita Ekberg swanning around the Trevi fountain to the heavily accented waiter who calls every woman in earshot “Bella” transports you straight to Italy. And the coffee? A workhorse Italian with rough edges and a lingering kick.

Patricia Coffee Brewers

CBD

> “Sunshine” reads the neon sign curling across the ceiling and it’s what grey Melbourne sorely needs today. Just as well this standing room only bolthole (patriciacoffee. com.au) in the heart of the legal district diffuses liquid sunshine into a cup. It’s not a place where you’ll be spoiled for choice: the menu comes down to black, white or filter.

The flat white is swoon-worthily smooth and velvety – and extra points go to the glass of sparkling water that arrives free.

Brother Baba Budan

CBD

> Named after the 17th-century Sufi who’s said to have smuggled coffee beans out of Yemen, this city outpost of the Seven Seeds café and roastery empire (sevenseeds.com.au) knows its coffee and has the devoted acolytes to show for it. After biding my time in a long queue, the richly caramel flattie proves worth the wait and the quasi-religious reverence the staff show for their product makes me want to take a bag of the good stuff to go.

Market Lane

CBD

> All hail the purists who refuse to serve coffee with soy, almond or any other non-dairy “mylk” (because it curdles, they argue).

Now spanning a six-café empire, including the stunning 1920s-styled venue at the Queen Victoria Market’s Dairy Produce Hall, Market Lane (marketlane.com.au) serves a flat white for the ages: robust, lingering and as full-bodied as a 1967 Ford Falcon. It’s so good, in fact, I break my cardinal rule of one coffee a day and throw caution to the wind with a second. New York better watch out – at this rate, Melbourne is going to be the city that never sleeps.

ILL U S T R AT IO N _ L AC HL A N P H IL P

St Ali

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T R AVEL H ACK

Action plan —Exercise is good for the heart, health and soul. So why not flip from flab to fit on holiday with these top tips from four of Australia’s most famous personal trainers—

> With millions of followers on Instagram and Facebook, this social-media savvy personal trainer founded the hugely influential Sweat with Kayla app (kaylaitsines.com).

T O P T IP

Take your workouts with you

It can be difficult to stick to your regular workouts while travelling so it’s important to be prepared. When I travel, I find that using an app or digital guide is a great way to ensure that I have the tools I need to stay on track with my workouts. With a fitness app I can continue my fitness routine anywhere at anytime, giving me the flexibility that I need, which is especially important while travelling.

Michelle Bridges

> This celebrity trainer became a household name in Australia while drilling contestants on TV show The Biggest Loser. Now she heads the 12WBT – 12 Week Body Transformation – an online health and fitness program (michellebridges.com.au).

Luke Zocchi

> He has whipped Cate Blanchett and Chris Hemsworth into shape for movie roles and today he’s a fitness expert hand-picked by Hemsworth for the megastar’s Centr app (centr.com), which helps everyday people rediscover their mojos.

T O P T IP

T O P T IP

The biggest excuse I hear from people telling me why they can’t get fit is that they don’t have time to train – what’s the one thing you have stacks of while on holidays? TIME! Going on holiday is the perfect opportunity to get fit so packing your activewear is essential.

Then go for a walk and check out the local sights, enjoy a bike ride or even hit the hotel gym.

What better way to check out a new destination than walking around and seeing things? Skip the taxi ride and use those “get-around sticks” – aka legs! As a rule of thumb, I try to hit 10,000 steps a day. Or get up and smash out 20 minutes of HIIT (high intensity interval training) with an awesome workout app. It is quick, effective and can be done anywhere without any equipment.

Pack your gym gear

Walk more

Tiffiny Hall

> A black belt in Taekwondo and a personal trainer, Tiffiny has appeared on TV shows Gladiators and The Biggest Loser and is founder of online health and fitness program TIFFXO (tiffxo.com).

T O P T IP

Keep exercise regular

For a quick equipment-free workout in my hotel room, I blast through an app fitness session. If I really want to hit it hard, then I use my carry on suitcase for added resistance while doing sit-ups, squats, incline push-ups and incline mountain climbers.

If I have a stopover, I walk laps of the airport to keep up the blood flow after sitting for so long. It’s important to get that oxygen pumping to beat jet lag.

W O R D S_ R A C H EL G R AY

Kayla Itsines

Arrowtown P O S TC ARD FR O M

—Lined with historic buildings and pretty weatherboard cottages – now home to artist’s studios, interiors stores and fashion boutiques – the streets and laneways of this former gold rush town are a pleasant diversion and an easy 25-minute drive from Queenstown—

W O R D S_ R A C H A EL O A K ES-A S H IL L U S T R AT IO N _ G E R G Ő G IL IC Z E

1 DOROTHY BROWNS CINEMA Kick off your hiking shoes or ski boots and sink into a lush couch with a local brew or wine and a delicious cheese board to watch the latest contemporary and arthouse films.

You’ll find this boutique cinema, bar and bookstore just off Buckingham Street, perched up high in a quirky cobbled back lane lined with art galleries, bars and restaurants. dorothybrowns.com

2 AOSTA This recently opened restaurant is a collab between jeweller Sir Michael Hill and two-time NZ Chef of the Year Ben Bayly. Serving up dinner Monday to Sunday, the space has an upbeat vibe and features high ceilings, stone, wood and champagne-coloured glass. Expect an Italian-style menu – flame-grilled sardines, crayfish risotto and wild rabbit ravioli, anyone? aosta.nz 3 JENNY MEHRTENS ARTIST Hang with a local artist in her light-filled studio where the walls are hung with works inspired by Maori culture and created using gold leaf and acrylic paint on oak board. Mehrtens offers showings by appointment only – purchase artwork on site or commission an original. jennymehrtens.com

T H E C H ECKL IS T

4 ATTIC HOMESTORE This den of chic homeware design on Ramshaw Lane features an eclectic mix of vintage and bespoke pieces from local designers and their own soft furnishings label. Need a sheepskin beanbag, concrete cube stool or antique chess piece?

You’ll find it here. attichomestore.co.nz 5 PATAGONIA CHOCOLATES Founded by Argentinian couple Alex Gimenez and Lorena Giallonardo, Patagonia’s hot chocolate is the stuff of legend – think house-made marshmallows the size of your head bobbing in steamed milk flavoured with melted dark or milk chocolate.

Add handmade truffles and gelato by the scoopful and hike off the calories tomorrow. patagoniachocolates.co.nz

6 SLOW CUTS This meat eaters’ paradise celebrates slabs of slow-cooked lamb, beef and steak alongside whole rotisserie chooks, hearty burgers, rustic roast root vegies and food like mama used to make. Go, sit and break bread with the locals in a contemporary wood and steel setting with a huge stone fireplace. fb.me/slowcuts 7 IKON Local fashionistas descend upon Ikon on Arrowtown’s main street for hand-picked items from the antipode’s coolest designers. Lose yourself in racks of Trelise Cooper, Karen Walker, Camilla and Marc, Assembly Label and Tigerlily mixed up with global brands Diesel, Fjällräven and Superga. ikonnz.com

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8 THE FORK AND TAP This heritage pub built in 1870 is an institution in Arrowtown. In winter, it’s the locals’ après-ski joint for 17 New Zealand brews on tap, polenta fries and pot pies and in summer, the beer garden fills quickly for lazy twilight nights. It’s family friendly too, so take the grommets. theforkandtap.co.nz 9 PROVISIONS OF ARROWTOWN Folks travel miles just to get their mitts on one of the famous cinnamon-toffee sticky buns oozing with old world comfort from this cute weatherboard cottage and garden café. They sell out quickly so get there early; if you miss out, just ask for the lemon curd doughnut instead, and thank us later. provisionsofarrowtown.co.nz

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Prices for Australian and New Zealand residents may vary. * Price is an estimate only and is calculated based on a domestic ticket cancellation policy for 1 adult. Prices for New Zealand residents may vary. ^ International cover for travellers under 60. Price is an estimate only and is calculated on an Essentials policy, up to 4 days for 1 person. ∞ International cover for travellers under 70. Price is an estimate only and is calculated on an Essentials Plus policy, up to 4 days for 1 person. Insurance products and services are provided by AIG Australia Limited, ABN 93 004 727 753, AFSL 381686 (AIG) in Australia, and in New Zealand by AIG Insurance New Zealand Limited. Jetstar Airways Pty Ltd, ABN 33 069 720 243 (Jetstar), is a distributor of AIG. Jetstar is not authorised to provide any advice regarding insurance in Australia or New Zealand or to bind any person on behalf of AIG. You should read and consider the policy or PDS available at jetstar.com and note the limitations and exclusions in the policy, prior to making any decision to acquire the product. Cover is available for Australia and New Zealand residents only.

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TR AVEL TREN D S

Let’s go gramping

W O R D S _ A L E X A N D R A C A R LT O N

—Adventurous seniors are now hitting the road with grandkids in tow. Skip-gen holidaying is a new travel trend that brings together the young and the young at heart—

Sydney retiree Elizabeth Atkins cherishes every second she spends with her only grandchild, six-year-old Jasper. Which is why, when a friend with a grandson of a similar age suggested Elizabeth and Jasper join them for a week-long holiday in Dubbo, in the NSW Central West, she jumped at the chance. “At first it seemed a little strange to take him away on my own without his mum but we ended up having the most wonderful time; we rode bikes everywhere, explored the town and of course went to Taronga Western Plains Zoo,” she says. “He missed his mum a bit – there were a few tears on the first night – but he was so excited about going to the zoo.

It was really lovely to have that time with him.”

The “gramping” or “skip-gen holiday” trend – where grandparents take vacations with their grandkids while the generation in the middle stays home – is one that’s growing in popularity across Australia, fuelled by the rise of retirees with the time and funds to invest in leisure and encouraged by overworked parents who may not be able to take a break from the office.

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“Part of this new trend is because grandparents despair at the amount of time children are spending on devices,” says Sue Preston, travel editor of The Senior newspaper.

“Increasingly, grandparents are taking the children to places where they can enjoy the great outdoors, preferably without Wi-Fi! Grandparents say they relish the opportunity to connect with and really get to know their grandchildren without the normal day-to-day distractions.”

Michael Buggy, general manager of Australian Walking Holidays, says it’s something he’s seeing more and more. “Grandparents are looking for experiences to share with their grandchildren. Travel is a great way to make memories and do something together,” he says.

“We recently had a couple of grandparents stay with their grandkids, aged six and eight,” says Edwina Shallcross, co-owner of Bullara Station in Western Australia’s north-west outback. “They said their son and daughter-in-law work full time and this takes the pressure off with holiday care. It also allows the grandparents and grandchildren to maintain a beautiful relationship while they’re young. The whole family gets together to plan the next year’s adventure.”

The trick to successful gramping is that boundaries should be set and stuck to. Details of who is paying for what must be sorted out in advance and everyone should be aware that full-time babysitting can be taxing for older people. One disadvantage of gramping is that “you can’t hand the kids back when you get tired”, says Sue Preston.

Then, of course, it’s important to choose a holiday that includes sights and activities that appeal to both ends of the age spectrum. When in doubt, says Steve Edmonds, CEO of Reflections Holiday Parks, wildlife is the great intergenerational leveller.

“One of our properties, Moonee Beach Holiday Park [near Coffs Harbour on the NSW north coast], is adjacent to a nature reserve. Each night in September the fireflies come out. It’s a beautiful thing and the looks of wonder on everyone’s faces – from the kids to the adults – is something else.”

TOP GR AMPING HOLIDAY IDEAS Nature experiences > Extraordinary nature encounters such as swimming with whale sharks off the coast of WA, the penguin parade on Victoria’s Phillip Island and cassowary spotting in the Daintree rainforest of TNQ will appeal to all age groups.

Camping and caravanning > A stay in a holiday park, either in a caravan or cabin, is an easy way to keep kids contained and entertained. Most have facilities such as pools and games rooms and are set up so grandparents can supervise children while enjoying a good sit down and a glass of wine.

Walking and cycling tours > These are great ways for grandparents to connect with older grandchildren. Cycling the Otago Central Rail Trail on the South Island of New Zealand is just the right combination of exertion and indulgence, while the Larapinta Trail in the Northern Territory caters for hikers of varying fitness levels, with short and easy treks available.

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# 2 RIP IN TO T HE RESEARC H TO GE T HER Give kids (age appropriate) research tasks: “Perhaps one can plot distances on a map, while an older child could research the local food and then find a cooking class everyone can do together. They will feel they are making a family contribution,” says Brian.

# 3 BRIN G T HE K IDS IN TO T HE B U D GE T IN G Holidays provide a great opportunity to educate children on the value of money. “My girls save for their holiday spending money by selling old toys, games or clothes,” says life coach and keen traveller Linda Anderson (lindaonthego.com). “We then show them how to convert their earnings into the relevant currency. At the destination, they are free to use this money to buy anything they want.”

# 4 LEARN T HE L A N G UAGE

—We’ve all done it: booked a trip, worked out the itinerary, then told the children – all they had to do was turn up. But if you let kids in on the planning, you’ll reap rich rewards—

# 1 D O N’T B O OK AF TER BEDT IME A family holiday can start with the planning. “You can shortlist hotels together, decide on restaurants everyone would like and then let the kids help make the booking,” says Brian Caswell, a father of four and author of the MindChamps Reading and Writing Programs (au.mindchamps.org).

# 5 GE T T HEM TO PACK

Kids as young as preschool age are ready to participate in the packing process. Sure, you’ll need to supervise (and likely do some repacking) but the payoff is that they’ll learn early to take responsibility for their possessions. For older kids, it only takes one instance of forgetting an essential item to take the job more seriously (it’s up to you whether you dive in to save the day).

# 6 AU TO N O M Y PAYS OFF

“Let each child organise one day of the trip,” suggests Brian. “They can pick anything to do that day – maybe give them a budget – and they have to navigate the family there and make all the decisions, from what to eat to where to visit.” This helps children gain confidence – and parents, you’ll enjoy a complaint-free day!

ILL U S T R AT IO N _ B RE N T W IL S O N

How to get the kids involved in planning holidays

WORDS_ SUE WHITE

TR AVEL H ACK

Teach your kids to open their minds ahead of overseas holidays. “We get them to learn basic greetings and phrases in another language and to count to at least 10,” says Linda. This helps kids to not only start thinking about their upcoming travels, it offers an opportunity to connect more deeply with the destination. Plus, the locals will love it.

4:15 pm

Training is cancelled. can you pick me up mum

Charlotte has sent your their location

4:20 pm

Okay mum, love you Love you too! x 4:20 pm

3G Phone (2-way)

SMS Messaging

Safe Contact List

School Mode

Location on Demand

Safe Zones

SOS Alerts

High Security

Up to

Step Counter

David Dare Parker P05381.037

This special exhibition honours those Australians who work tirelessly to avert tragedy and build peace.

From Bougainville to East Timor; Rwanda to Solomon Islands – explore the stories behind peacekeeping and humanitarian operations, where Australian civilians, diplomats, police and military, have shown the courage to make peace.

awm.gov.au/courageforpeace

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TEC H N OL O GY

Update —Gear, apps, tech talk and more—

Motorola One Vision

$499

> For those who like to use their smartphones for photos more than anything else, this new device’s 48MP Quad Pixel rear camera with Night Vision mode helps light up the darkest settings, while the 25MP front camera is perfect for sharp and detailed selfies.

The 21:9 screen aspect ratio offers an anamorphic cinema experience without squeezing or cropping your favourite media. Plus, you get seven hours of juice from a 15-minute fast charge. motorola.com.au

Birde

$1 9 9

> This smart media player for young minds is a godsend for parents. Use the dedicated app to curate music, video and audiobook content for your toddler, pre-schooler or child, then relax knowing their entertainment – provided by folks such as ABC Kids and Nickelodeon – is both safe and fun. It’s also washable and durable, with no internet connection required for use. birde.co

WORDS_ MARK GAMBINO

NuraLoop

$29 9

> Say hello to personalised audio.

These intelligent earphones offer a truly unique music experience by measuring your individual hearing profile (it learns the frequencies you’re sensitive to) and adapting sound accordingly. Wireless and lightweight, they can be easily stowed away in a jacket pocket or backpack. And they offer 16-hours playback on a single charge, so you can plug in to take your in-flight entertainment to the next level. nuraphone.com

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M UST-HAVE

APPS

B U YERS’ G UIDE

Fitness trackers > You can barely enter the gym without one these days or in fact, even go for a run in the park! Worn just like a watch, fitness trackers monitor your daily activities to create a portrait of your overall health.

Premium devices are now able to track specific activities such as golf and swimming, apart from the basic functions of calculating steps per day, calories burned, distance, heart rate and GPS location tracking. Highend models can also offer water or shock resistance.

Many fitness trackers connect to your smartphone and feature a companion app to view and manage health data, but some operate without needing a phone.

Other devices give you smartphone services on your wrist – including messaging, payment services and even social media apps.

Battery life can vary anywhere from 24 hours to many months before needing a charge, so check power details first to make sure what you’re getting will suit your lifestyle.

Music is another feature that varies. Some just have an app that streams audio from your smartphone, while others let you store tunes on the device – connect your Bluetooth headphones and fire up your favourite workout tracks.

BYO Finder

3 to try... #1 GARMIN VIVOACTIVE 3 $449 Along with basic functions, outdoor sports enthusiasts can enjoy 13 hours of GPS activity tracking as well as smartphone communications and payment features with this gadget (pictured). You can also monitor your oxygen uptake and stress levels. garmin.com/en-AU #2 FITBIT CHARGE 3 $229 A seven-day battery and tracking of key activities – calories, 24/7 heart rate and sleep movement – makes this ideal for general health improvement. Pre-programmed goal-based exercises help you reach targets for your favourite activities. fitbit.com/au/store #3 WITHINGS MOVE $129 Enjoy GPS location and dedicated sport tracking, along with 18 months of battery, with this stylish fitness tracker. Sleep monitoring will record movement, light levels and duration. jbhifi.com.au

Robot revolution > If you find baristas struggling to get that “three-quarters full with soy milk, extra hot, weak, small latte” order right every time, a new company in San Francisco has created a 24-hour café, called Coffee Haus, with an automated barista that requires no humans to operate.

Taking this concept a step further, food tech company Creator has developed the world’s first hamburger robot that cooks meals to order.

In Australia, Melbourne ice-cream shop Niska is offering artisan ice-cream served by robot scoopers. These friendly bots sling cones of salted caramel, hazelnut, rocky road and other flavours with a digital smile. Kate Orlova, Niska CEO, says: “Ice-cream is just the beginning.

We’re looking to expand the robotics into other areas of retail.”

IO S + A N DR OID Find over 3200 BYO restaurants around Australia with this new app from Cellarmasters.

Search by your location, by cuisine or in a specific area, then check the menu to discover perfectly matched wines. You can also order an Uber through the app, and build a library of your favourite BYO restaurants. cellarmasters. com.au

Babbel IO S + A N DR OID Learn the lingo before you go with subscription-based learning service Babbel’s mobile app. Enjoy your first audio lesson in one of 14 languages – including Indonesian (Hello, Bali!) – then review your progress. Enable speech recognition to get feedback on your pronunciation as well. You can also learn specific vocabulary based on your interests. babbel.com

BROUGHT TO YOU BY JETSTAR TRAVEL INSURANCE

THE LIGHTER SIDE WE ALL KNOW PACKING LIGHT – AND SMART – MAKES FOR SMOOTH TRAVEL. HERE ARE SIX TIPS THAT WILL CHANGE THE WAY YOU PACK AND LEAVE YOU SMILING ON THE OTHER SIDE.

1. MASTER THE RANGER ROLL

It’s no secret that rolling your clothes takes up less space in your suitcase than folding, but there’s an art to it. Known as the “ranger roll”, the method involves folding up one end of the item of clothing to create a cuff or pocket. Fold in sides to make a neat rectangle.

Starting from the opposite end, roll the item tightly, then fold one side of the pocket over the roll, securing it snugly. Voila!

2. ORGANISE AND COMPRESS

Packing cubes are a great tool for keeping your suitcase organised but be mindful that they are essentially extra items of luggage. If maximising space is more important than minimising weight, compression bags are perfect for constricting bulky items like puffer jackets.

3. THINK SMALL (BUT GREEN)

Purchasing travel-sized toiletries isn’t cost effective or kind to the planet. Save space and cash by decanting your favourite products into reusable bottles. To prevent leaks, opt for plastic-free solid toiletries like shampoo cubes.

4. GO TECH-LITE

Do you really need to travel with all that tech? When it’s time to upgrade your favourite devices, look for rechargeable and multi-use products (such as power banks that double as storage devices), which allow you to pack – and stress – less.

Did you know?

> 58 per cent of Australians* don’t check exclusions on their insurance policy.

Make sure you’ve read yours. > Even in cases of emergency, the Australian Government will not cover your medical treatment or evacuation expenses overseas**. > Your regular health insurance won’t cover you abroad.

5. KNOW YOUR LIMITS

No-one wants to end their holiday forking out for excess baggage at the airport. By checking restrictions in advance and travelling with a portable luggage scale (which is particularly handy for post-souvenirshopping weigh-ins), you’ll never get caught out.

6. COVER YOURSELF

An important travel item that won’t take up an iota of space in your suitcase is travel insurance. The ultimate in pre-holiday prep, Jetstar Travel Insurance (jetstar.com/travelinsurance) covers domestic and international travel and you can get it right up until you board the plane, so you are covered from the time you board the flight, before you leave Australia.

*From Australians’ Travel Insurance Behaviour by Quantum Market Research for the Insurance Council of Australia and Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade, August 2016. **Smartraveller, Australian Government, Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade.

For Australian Residents, insurance products and services are provided by AIG Australia Limited, ABN 93 004 727 753, AFSL 381686 (AIG). Jetstar Airways Pty Ltd, ABN 33 069 720 243 (Jetstar), is an authorised distributor of AIG. You should read and consider the policy or PDS at jetstar.com and note the limitations and exclusions in the policy, in light of your personal circumstances, prior to making any decision to acquire the product. For New Zealand residents, insurance is underwritten by AIG Insurance New Zealand Limited (Company Number 3195589, FSP189804) (“AIG NZ”). Jetstar is not authorised to provide any advice regarding insurance or to bind any person on behalf of AIG or AIG NZ. Jetstar Travel Insurance must be purchased prior to boarding the aircraft for departure.

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T R AVEL NE W S

In the know —The latest buzz on where to play, stay and holiday—

R U G BY W O RL D C U P

Spectator sport The 2019 Rugby World Cup has kicked off and throughout October, 20 international teams will compete in 12 cities around Japan. Even when you’re not in a stadium, don’t miss any of the action - you can join scrums of local and visiting rugby fans at free screenings of games: in the capital, head to official FanZones at Tokyo Sports Square in Chiyoda-ku, as well as Chofu Station Square or Chofu City Green Hall. Japan has a passionate fan base so expect an omatsuri (festival) atmosphere, plus plenty of stalls selling food and cold beer. rugbyworldcup.com

N E W H O T EL

Soak it in If you’re in Japan this month, trying an authentic local experience is a must. The south-western Oita Prefecture is best known for its natural hot springs, and the newly opened ANA InterContinental Beppu Resort & Spa, the first luxury hotel to open in this region, offers the perfect base to enjoy the onsens. With its design incorporating traditional crafts and materials, the resort also features its own private onsens and is home to five restaurants representing the five elements. The Beppu Luxury Collage is a special launch package including immersive experiences in Japanese culture and cuisine. anaicbeppu.com

TA S T E T R A IL

Cheers for beer!

Known for its excellent vineyards, Margaret River is now also a destination for lovers of hops, having the most microbreweries in WA. Set out from Busselton to check out 10 of the best, including Beerfarm and the Bootleg Brewery, with the aid of the new Margaret River Region Craft Beer Trail guide. trailswa.com.au

21 SEPTEMBER – 27 OCTOBER 2019 6 OFFICIAL BIERS | 6 WEEKS OF PARTIES | BIG FEASTING PLATTERS | FREE SHOWBAGS | KIDS EAT FREE SUNDAYS* & MORE MUNICH BRAUHAUS SYDNEY, THE ROCKS | MELBOURNE, SOUTH WHARF | BRISBANE, SOUTH BANK THE BAVARIAN NSW: BONDI BEACH, CASTLE HILL, CHARLESTOWN, CHATSWOOD, ENTERTAINMENT QUARTER, GREEN HILLS, MACARTHUR, MANLY WHARF, MIRANDA, PENRITH, ROUSE HILL, SHELLHARBOUR, TUGGERAH, WETHERILL PARK, WOLLONGONG, WORLD SQUARE VIC: HIGHPOINT, KNOX O-ZONE SA: TEA TREE PLAZA ACT: BELCONNEN, WODEN QLD: BROADBEACH, CHERMSIDE, COOMERA, EAGLE ST. PIER, MACKAY, ROBINA, SUNSHINE PLAZA, THE BARRACKS, TOOWOOMBA

BOOK NOW: OKTOBERFEST.COM.AU

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T HIS J U S T IN

Miami in Melbourne

—Can you take a selfie? Sure can! At these photo-ready venues, forget the hash browns, it’s all about the hashtags—

01.

02.

03.

04.

> SPEEDOS CAFE SYDNEY, NSW

> PINK. THE RESTAURANT MELBOURNE, VIC

> SLATE PERTH, WA

> PAWPAW CAFE BRISBANE, QLD

This café, 20 minutes from the CBD, is run by a family of self-professed coffee snobs. The photogenic art created by one of the baristas is a standout. slatecafe.com.au

Insta-snappers come to the Woolloongabba dining spot for the octopus mural by Lauren Carney but the food is just as appealing. pawpawcafe. com.au

Limitless ocean views and camera-ready dishes (above) have earned this Bondi Beach café the title of World’s Most Instagrammable. speedoscafe. com.au

Barbie would die.

This new Italian joint, decked out totally in rosy hues, has custom installations, perfect for the posting kind. pinktherestaurant. com.au

Great barrier for the reef > Banyan Tree Essentials’ new Coconut & Seaweed Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30 not only contains zinc oxide and titanium oxide to block out UVA and UVB rays, it also minimises damage to coral reefs and sea life.

Ingredients in chemical sunscreens can pollute the ocean and contribute to coral bleaching but when you slap on this lightweight formula, you can safely slip into the ocean without burning or leaving a trace. essentials.banyantree.com

Simon Shiff

Four of the most Instagram-worthy Aussie eateries

> For the third year in a row, Arbory Afloat takes up residence on Melbourne’s Yarra River. This season the floating bar and restaurant has chosen a Miami theme, complete with a gelatohued palette and palm trees. But its most exciting innovation is a pool from which to enjoy sunsets, cocktails and a tasty menu of Latin-American flavours.

Perfect for New Year’s Eve. arboryafloat.com.au

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C ALEN DAR

The Color Run

OCTOBER

20.10.19

Dress in white and be doused in coloured powder at every kilometre mark before celebrating at the post-race party with music, dancing and photo ops. thecolorrun.com.au

NO MATTER WHERE YOU ARE THIS MONTH, THERE’S PLENTY TO ENJOY...

COMEDY

MELBOURNE Dame Edna – My Gorgeous Life 23-27.10.19

Cirque Du Soleil – Kurios: Cabinet of Curiosities 02.10.19-24.11.19

The fantastical circus from Canada kicks off its nine-month Australian tour with a mind-bending performance that includes acrobatics, steampunk and music. cirquedusoleil.com

MUSIC

SYDNEY

ENTERTAINMENT

Comedian Barry Humphries’ alter-ego Dame Edna Everage comes out of retirement to entertain her audiences of “precious possums” at the Arts Centre Melbourne. artscentremelbourne.com.au

CANBERRA Kasey Chambers – The Captain 27.10.19

The country music star celebrates the 20th anniversary of her debut album at The Playhouse theatre. kaseychambers.com

PERTH

FUN RUN

ENTERTAINMENT

HOBART Royal Hobart Show

T H E RE’S A D AY F O R T H AT ?!

23-26.10.19

Animals, entertainment, show bags and amusement rides will keep the whole family busy during four lively days of agricultural-steeped fun. hobartshowground.com.au

International Coffee Day 01.10.19

CINEMA

BRISBANE Brisbane International Film Festival

World Smile Day

03-13.10.19

04.10.19

Hollywood heavyweight duo Baz Luhrmann and Catherine Martin are patrons of this year’s BIFF. biff.com.au

International Beer & Pizza Day

CULTURE

ADEL AIDE Moon Lantern Parade

09.10.19

19.10.19

MELBOURNE

25-26.10.19

CINEMA

This year, the second-most important day of the Spring Racing Carnival has a New York City theme. mrc.racing.com

22.10.19

Watch short films made by emerging local and international movie-makers on the big screen under the stars, right next to the Coral Sea. portshorts.com

Caulfield Cup 19.10.19

International Caps Lock Day

Port Shorts

PORT DOUGL AS

SPORT

Watch hundreds of glowing puppets and lamps light up Elder Park while enjoying live music and roving acts in a highlight of the OzAsia Festival. ozasiafestival.com.au

antlerluggage.com.au

045—088

the traveller > WHERE TO GO NEXT

K ID S’ CLU B S PA G E

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> The city’s Hokkaido NipponHam Fighters professional baseball team has won two Japan Series titles.

P H UKE T

PA G E

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> At Chinese New Year, special pineapples – known as the Queen of Andaman Fruit – sell for more than $720 each.

H O BART

PA G E

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> With 69, Tasmania has more golf courses per capita than any other state, including the Southern hemisphere’s oldest.

FA MILY W O R D S _ L A R I S S A D U B E C K I, S H E R I D E N R H O D E S, D I LV I N YA S A

Cool for kids —The new wave of kids’ clubs has raised the (limbo) bar when it comes to holiday fun. We scoured the Jetstar network to find 14 epic kids’ clubs that offer non-stop action and extraordinary adventures—

T H E T R AV ELLER

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Bali Club Med Bali

@earthyandy

AGES 04 MTHS - 17 YRS KIDS MARY POPPINS-LIKE CARERS > Picture a kids’ club so wonderful that it entices Australian families to return to the same resort year after year – that’s Club Med Bali, a sprawling property located beachside in upscale Nusa Dua on the island’s south coast.

Kids can sign up for flying trapeze and circus school training and activities like Balinese dance, Indonesian cooking and kayaking. Meanwhile, you can rest assured that Play School-presenter level carers are at their side every step of the way. This may say something about my standard of parenting but my daughters were so happy with the carers that they cried every time I tried to pull them away from their clubs.

There are four age-appropriate clubs – Baby Club Med for four- to 23-month-olds, Petit Club Med for little ones aged two to three, Mini Club Med for children from four to 10 and Junior Club Med for those aged 11 to 17. The cost of the kids’ clubs is covered in the all-inclusive price of the resort. The one exception is Baby Club Med, which serves up a splash zone, playground and a cloud motif-heavy space for rest and play from $94 per day. Due to the popularity of this service, it’s advised you book in advance and bring along your little one’s immunisation details. – DY clubmed.com.au

Cook Islands The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Lagoonarium AGES 03 MTHS - 16 YRS KIDS M A K ING F L OR A L HE A DP IECE S > With its shallow lagoon and plethora of nature-based pursuits, many believe the entire island of Rarotonga is essentially one big playground. But for those who’d rather take the traditional “drop the children somewhere safe and skip off into the sunset” approach, it doesn’t get any better than the kids’ club at the recently renovated Rarotongan Beach Resort & Lagoonarium.

Free of charge for hotel guests, Moko’s Kids Club offers a slew of daily activities, as well as a welcome pack and free snacks and drinks for children aged four to 11. Those aged 12 to 16 can enjoy the new Teen Zone next door, which offers everything from scuba diving lessons and karaoke to touch rugby on the beach.

Although tots under four can visit Moko’s under the supervision of a parent or carer, there’s also the option of booking bubs and toddlers aged zero to four into the new Banana Beach Playland Creche, where a session filled with age-appropriate activities is NZ$45. Babysitting is available from NZ$15 an hour and, happily, non-guests also have the option of booking sessions at Moko’s for NZ$45 per session.

My girls particularly loved making floral headpieces and hats from palm leaves with the help of carers, who I swear have the patience of saints. – DY therarotongan.com

Vietnam JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay

Hawaii Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Resort AGES 05 YRS - 12 YRS KIDS AT L A N T IS S UBM A RINE RIDE > Fronting onto the soft white sand of fabled Waikiki Beach, Hilton Hawaiian Village has the kids’ club to match its prime Honolulu real estate. Running full or half-day programs for children aged five to 12, Camp Penguin is all about giving young guests a taste of terroir. From lei making to hula dancing, the team of professionally trained camp counsellors leads kids in exploring the history and customs of Hawaii.

Activities at the resort include storytelling, games and music along with arts and crafts (fancy building a sand volcano on Waikiki Beach?), while there’s the opportunity for a change of scenery on excursions to Honolulu Zoo, Waikiki Aquarium and the Bishop Museum, which offers a taste of Hawaii’s cultural history. You’ll need to register the kids at least 24 hours in advance for Camp Penguin, which costs US$95 for a full day and US$110 for a full day with excursion.

Après-camp, kids will love exploring the resort’s swimming pools, waterfalls and water slides. There are also child-friendly movies under the stars, Friday-night fireworks and the chance to take a submarine ride into the deep blue sea. – LD hiltonhawaiianvillage.com

AGES 04 YRS - 12 YRS KIDS TREASURE HUNTS > With a beguiling stretch of palm-fringed sand known as “ice-cream beach” and an American college theme, including running track and library, this Bill Bensley-designed resort is high on family appeal.

The doors of the whimsical kids’ club are child height and inside it’s kitted out with miniature furniture and a ball pit. Kids aged four to 12 can try everything from yoga and Vietnamese dance through to palm-leaf animal crafting, clay-figure painting and pizza making. (Children under four can join the fun with a parent or nanny.)

There’s even a magician on staff.

The kids’ club is free, as are a bunch of other activities including treasure hunts and nightly movie screenings.

Families will enjoy stand-up paddle boarding in the safe, shallow waters or kayaking along the rugged coastline. Landlubbers can hire bikes and head off to the An Thoi market or Ho Quoc Pagoda. A choice of two kid-friendly pools and extremely attentive staff (once, a gardener cut open a coconut for my daughter to drink) ensure the whole brood will love this incredible resort. – SR jwmarriottphuquocresort.com/ en/home

K ID S’ CL U B S

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Fraser Island Kingfisher Bay Resort, Queensland AGES 05 YRS - 12 YRS KIDS N AT U R E E X P E R I E N C E S > Admittedly, it’s not a true kids’ club as the full program is only offered during school holidays but those with an interest in nature pursuits will love the Junior Eco Rangers activities at Kingfisher Bay Resort on Queensland’s Fraser Island, the largest sand island in the world.

Run by an experienced team of rangers, the program (for kids aged five to 12) is all about leaving screens behind and reconnecting with the natural world through activities such as learning to fish, discovering flora and fauna on bushwalks, playing games on the beach and listening to stories while toasting marshmallows around the campfire. Each session costs $35 (including lunch or dinner) and you can book the kids in for a morning or evening slot.

Outside of school holidays, the resort usually offers one Junior Eco Rangers session on weekends. – DY kingfisherbay.com

Japan Club Med Tomamu Hokkaido AGES 02 YRS - 17 YRS KIDS SKIING AND SNOWBOARDING LESSONS > Sprawled across snow-covered Tomamu Mountain, this winter wonderland is where the action is – there’s an on-site ice village, an 80-metre wave pool nearby and a team of beaming snow instructors ready to teach their charges how to ace both skiing and snowboarding as part of the kids’ clubs at Club Med Tomamu Hokkaido. Skiing is available for those aged four years and up and snowboarding from eight years, both taught in ability groups.

For a fee, tots aged two to three can discover the wintry delights of the mountains with Petit Club Med (there’s no Baby Club Med).

Meanwhile, children aged four to 10 can enjoy Mini Club Med, which incorporates a three-room space devoted to arts and crafts, video games and music.

In a separate space, Club Med Passworld gives big kids aged 11 to 17 relaxation time away from their skiing and snowboarding lessons in a graffiti-covered room where they can spin decks and enjoy movie screenings.

The kids’ clubs are covered in the price of this all-inclusive resort, with the exception of Petit Club Med, an on-demand service that costs ¥3900 (about $50) for a half day and ¥7800 (about $100) for a full day. – DY clubmed.com.au

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Whitsundays Daydream Island, Queensland AGES 04 YRS - 12 YRS KIDS SNORKELLING IN A REEF POOL > Calling all junior yogis. At Daydream Island (above), perfecting your downward dog near the pristine blue Whitsundays waters isn’t just the domain of Instagram influencers. Better yet, yoga is only part of a comprehensive program at the island resort’s supercharged Kids’ Club, reborn as part of its $100 million makeover following the devastation of 2017’s Cyclone Debbie.

In morning and afternoon sessions, children aged four to 12 enjoy walks in the rainforest, fish feeding at Lovers Cove, sandcastle building, beach sports, movies, scavenger hunts and kite making so there’s never a dull moment. Sessions cost $50 per child and there’s a discount for multiple children.

A highlight of the resort is the Living Reef – a man-made coral lagoon that offers a number of educational experiences at an additional cost. Kids will love feeding tropical fish and sea stars with in-house marine biologists, visiting the touch tank and underwater observatory and interacting with playful baby rays during the Stingray Splash. Just add a designated kids’ pool and press “go” on paradise. – LD daydreamisland.com

Thailand JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa AGES 04 YRS - 18 YRS K I D S S P A T R E AT M E N T S KIDS > With a slick aesthetic that wouldn’t look out of place in a “Homes you’ll never be able to afford” magazine, JW Marriott’s Children’s Pavilion is a world away from the tired-looking kids’ clubs often found in tropical hideaways. Looks aren’t everything of course, so what gives?

The Children’s Pavilion caters for kids aged four to 12 and most of the activities – such as hair beading, basic Thai boxing, tennis, mask making and Thai dance classes – are free.

It’s not all about the little ones and there’s plenty to entertain kids aged 13 to 18, who can learn scuba diving and Thai massage or join drawing, yoga and zumba classes. They’re also catered for in the Children’s Pavilion – the Teen Zone offers a mini movie theatre, karaoke, video games, pool tables and computers (with limited internet access) so they can post to their heart’s content.

The cherry on top? Although it’s not part of the kids’ club, the resort’s award-winning Mandara Spa offers treatments for little ones exhausted after a day of primary colour-hued activity. – DY marriott.com.au

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Singapore Shangri-La’s Rasa Sentosa Resort & Spa AGES 05 YRS - 12 YRS KIDS BALL PITS A N D W AT E R S L I D E S > If you get excited about free resort laundry services, here’s another one for you: a kids’ club where every child passing through its door must use hand sanitiser and have their temperature taken.

Yep, the folks behind Toots Club (for kids aged five to 12) and Mini Toots Club (for those under five) – part of The Cool Zone at Shangri-La’s Rasa Sentosa Resort & Spa – have thought of everything. Not only can children enjoy the clubs’ daily themed adventures, everything from Pirate Tuesday to Circus Saturday, there’s an arts and crafts room, a Fun Zone – where kids of all ages can play video games – plus foosball and table tennis. The clubs are free for hotel guests, although parents have to supervise little ones at Mini Toots Club, a jungle-themed play area with coloured ball pits and games (or you can pay for a private nanny).

Another draw for families with young children is the resort’s swimming pool with splash pad and water slides. And less than five minutes’ walk away on Siloso Beach is Nestopia, an outdoor adventure playground and obstacle course with 17 play sections and two of the longest slides on Sentosa Island. Good luck trying to get your kids to leave the resort – it took me upwards of 20-minutes just to coax them from Toots Club’s treehouse slide. – DY shangri-la.com

Gold Coast Paradise Resort Gold Coast, Queensland AGES 06 WKS - 12 YRS KIDS I C E - S K AT I N G R I N K > What do you add to a family resort that has everything? An ice-skating rink, of course! In the heart of Surfers Paradise, Paradise Resort also sports a colossal kids’ club. Split into two areas – one for children aged zero to three and another for four- to 12-year-olds – The Zone 4 Kids’ Club includes magic-themed play spaces, indoor and outdoor playgrounds and a huge smorgasbord of activities. Sign up for magic workshops, rock climbing, a hula hoop contest, slime-making, talent nights and virtual reality rides.

Most accommodation packages include one complimentary four-hour session per child per day at the kids’ club, otherwise expect to pay between $20 and $60 a session, plus extra for some workshops and activities.

Other resort facilities include two waterparks (one designed for littlies) complete with slides, water cannons, a dunk tank and a giant tipping bucket that empties in a huge splash every few minutes. If you can drag the kids away from the sensory overload – and for the record, it was a battle to get ours to leave the resort, even when uttering the magic words “Movie World” – the beach is only 10 minutes’ walk away. But if the in-house entertainment proves too great a lure, admit defeat and head to the adults-only swim and spa zone to recharge while the kids go wild. – LD paradiseresort.com.au

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Hawaii Aulani: A Disney Resort & Spa AGES 03 YRS - 12 YRS KIDS 24/7 DISNE Y > Got a Disney-obsessed little one who’s constantly parading around in polyester princess outfits? Head to Hawaii’s Aulani resort in Kapolei, on the island of Oahu, and they can celebrate their Disney addiction with gusto at Aunty’s Beach House, the onsite kids’ club.

The main attraction is “Aunty” – a lifelong Oahu resident and expert on local traditions, history and culture – who delights guests aged three to 12 with activities including Hawaiian arts and crafts, dress-ups and hosting Disney friends who stop by for a visit. My kids thought Aunty was the star of the show (and she is), even if she’s just walking through the resort – that’s kids’ club enough for some youngsters, including my own.

Most kids’ club activities are free and there are also premium experiences on offer for a fee – enjoy a makeover at the HI-Style Studio or take the Fish Are Friends tour, which introduces little ones to the resort’s marine life. It’s worth remembering that you need to submit the online pre-registration form for Aunty’s Beach House at least two days before you arrive at the resort. – DY disneyaulani.com

Fiji Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort Fiji AGES 02 MTHS - 12 YRS KIDS R E S ID E N T M A R INE B I O L O G I S T > Junior explorers and wannabe Doras will love the kids’ club at Fiji’s leading five-star eco resort, founded by the son of legendary marine conservationist Jacques Cousteau. For many families the highlight of this palm-fringed heaven is the all-inclusive Bula Club, which offers activities that mix education and a healthy dose of fun.

The philosophy is to encourage young ones to appreciate their surroundings, and this is achieved via guided walks with the resident marine biologist, exploration of the wonders of Savusavu Bay and botany tours with local elders who explain the medicinal properties of native plants. The Junior Chef Program also teaches kids how to harvest and prepare a healthy lunch.

My kids were endlessly entertained by the hermit crab races on the beach and were also able to surprise us by identifying local plants when we went for a walk. Kids of all ages will appreciate the Bula Club’s swimming pool and water slide, flying fox, trampoline, tree house and table tennis, while parents will love the dedicated nanny for each child under the age of six, the small-group carers for six to 12-year-olds and the activity buddy for teens. – LD fijiresort.com

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Bali Holiday Inn Resort Bali Benoa AGES 04 YRS - 12 YRS KIDS M O C K TA IL S AT T HE S W IM- UP B A R > Make a kite and watch it soar, scale a climbing wall and dress in traditional costume at this circus-themed kids’ club that caters for children aged four to 12. Fronting the white sands of Tanjung Benoa Beach, which neighbours Bali’s resort enclave of Nusa Dua, this 171-room resort (kids 12 and under stay and eat free) has been designed with families in mind.

In a smart move, the vibrant kids’ club is adjacent to both the family pool (with fun slide, giant tipping bucket and floating pillows) and restaurant so parents can dine or enjoy sundowners knowing – and seeing – their children are having fun. A TV monitor outside the kids’ club allows you to observe your little ones at play, without them seeing you.

The club is staffed by caring Balinese who provide a fun, safe environment for kids to learn about local culture, play on the beach and try everything from yoga and aerobics to making canang sari (Hindu flower offerings) and pizza.

It’s free but some activities incur a fee.

Another attraction is the offer of family suites with a separate twin bedroom complete with TV, game console and bathroom with rubber duck shower head. My daughter especially loved the swim-up bar, where she could order a mocktail, and flying the kite she made in the kids’ club, watching it swirl and dip on the ocean breeze. – SR balibenoa.holidayinn resorts.com

Fiji Outrigger Fiji Beach Resort AGES 03 YRS - 12 YRS KIDS SPEAR MAKING > When a Fijian staff member took my daughter “fishing” in a carp pond, giving me a moment to have coffee in peace, I fell hard for this resort.

While swaying palms and a languid lagoon beckon grown-up guests, its outstanding kids’ club and caring staff keeps families coming back.

From the moment the booming “Bula” man greets you at the entrance, families are embraced by legendary Fijian warmth and hospitality. Stay in resort rooms or thatched bures with vaulted tapa-lined ceilings from which meandering paths lead to the free Little Riggers (for three- to seven-year-olds) and Beach Riggers (for eight- to 12-year-olds) kids’ clubs. Staff with huge smiles and open arms welcome kids for fun-filled days of coconut throwing, fish feeding and crab hunting, as well as sandcastle making on the beach or water polo in the pool. For a small fee, a terrific teens program includes spear making, a tour of the Tavuni Hill Fort and a hike to the Enchanted Pool.

Or, parents can book one of the wonderful mei mei nannies (additional cost), who dote on their young charges – children aged six months to 12 years – then head to the heavenly hilltop Bebe Spa for rum nightcaps in the Kalokalo Bar, knowing their kids are in the best of hands. – SR outrigger.com

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C ULT U RE

—Frozen fairylands, great food, family fun and bright-light buzz… the snowy capital of Sapporo is much more than a jump off for the famous ski resorts of Hokkaido in northern Japan. Tracey Withers goes off-piste—

snow

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Word to the wise: the sound of ice splitting beneath your boots is more a quick, high-pitched hiss than the ominous crack that movie references lead you to expect. So I miss the warning.

I’ve made the rookie, i.e. idiot, move of traipsing out to an untrodden patch of white to get a trophy photo of myself standing intrepidly atop this frozen river – and now I’m up to my left ankle in it. Possibly sinking. There’s only a second of panic before Yoshi Okada, the guide from Fun Hokkaido (funhokkaido. com) who’s showing me around his hometown, yanks me out by my sleeve. “I’ve got one!” he says with a laugh.

I’m supposed to be with a crew of ice fishers inside a litt le dome, angling for tiny wakasagi or smelt. It’s a winter tradition first set by the indigenous Ainu people who lived independently on Hokkaido before the island was colonised by the Japanese in the 1860s (and who smartly used salmon skin to make waterproof shoes).

When I take my tiny perch, there’s intense concentration in the tent. Cold fingers are mushing half portions of something the locals are calling “caterpillar” – but it looks a lot like chubby maggot – onto microscopic hooks before lowering them through small round holes in the ice into the watery depths below. I mush. I jiggle.

We wait as it begins to snow.

Then I hook one. Triumph! I rush it to the cook’s tent where a woman huddled over a camp cooker flash-fries my mighty tiddler into crispy golden tempura on the spot. It’s so incredible I forget all about the maybe-maggot in its belly that’s now in mine. Numb left foot included, this

ICE FISHIN G CA MP

feels like a peak “cultural authenticity” moment that leaves me with goosebumps (and the temperature has nothing to do with it).

I’m on the frozen silent Barato River, which splinters off the mightier Ishikari River as it runs from the remote Taisetsu mountain ranges in central Hokkaido to the Sea of Japan (takarajima-travel.com/en). It’s hard to imagine I’m only 30 minutes from Sapporo, the blink-blink-flashing centre of Japan’s fi fth-largest city, amid a sprawl roughly the size of Hong Kong.

The capital of Hokkaido island, the largest and northernmost prefecture of Japan, is surrounded by nature. Slow-melting ice caps trickle sweet, clean mountain water into the city’s taps. And Yoshi tells me bears sometimes wander into urban space.

SAPP OR O T V TO WER

At its northernmost, Hokkaido is only 43 kilometres from Russian territory and each winter, flurries from Siberia unload an average 600 centimetres of dry, smooth and light snow on the Sapporo side of the island. This is champagne powder, skiers say. It brought the Winter Olympics to town in 1972. But you don’t have to be on piste to get into it.

At Snowmobile Land Sapporo (snowmobilelandsapporo.com), 10 kilometres from the city centre, I get my revs on a guided snowmobile tour to a 600-metre summit. As my small group guns through woods of scented pine and Japanese birch that has been frosted like a fairy cake by last night’s fall, snow crystals sparkle in the sunlight before fluffy clouds dust more snow over our tracks. It’s a fairyland, I think, falling backwards into cushy white to make snow angels like a big kid at the summit.

After a hearty barbecue lunch inside Snowmobile Land’s igloo (a real igloo), I pass up the opportunity of a tasting at Sapporo Beer Museum (sapporobeer.jp), which celebrates Hokkaido’s brewing culture, instead opting to visit a Shinto shrine.

“We’re passing from our everyday world into the divine world,” Yoshi explains as we bow and walk under the heavy wooden torii gate at Hokkaido Jingu shrine (hokkaidojingu.or.jp).

Before entering, we cleansed our hands and mouths at the stone ablution basin “because we all have lies to wash away” before we speak to gods. “This is the resting place of four deities: Okunitama, god of nature; Onamuchi, god of developing the land; Sukunahikona, who reclaims land and Emperor Meiji, who was very important to modernisation,” Yoshi says, explaining the etiquette – offer a coin, bow twice, clap, then bow deeply again – as we approach the shrine. Shinto is the native religion of Japan but many people who also worship at

“SLO W-MELT IN G ICE CAPS TRICKLE SWEE T, CLE A N M O U N TA IN WATER

R A MEN

IN TO T HE CI T Y’S TAPS.”

Buddhist temples or another faith come here on important dates.

Today it’s busy yet so hushed that I can hear the strips of white paper, bought to reveal future blessings or curses then tied to trees, fluttering in the wind. Akari, a kind local, offers to read me the fortune foretold on my strip of paper but it’s either difficult to explain in English or she reckons I’m better off in the dark. “Just tie it here,” she instructs, patting my arm and bowing.

Maybe the fortune teller saw what the rest of the night had in store for me and didn’t want to give away any spoilers.

Back in Sapporo city that evening, I stroll along gridded streets past landmarks like the mid-western American-style Clock Tower from 1878 and the neo-baroque Former Hokkaido Government Office building, which tells of the city’s relatively modern history. Come dusk, lights at the Eiffel-esque TV Tower (tv-tower. co.jp/en/) come on (its observation deck is open until 10pm most nights) and between November and mid-March the twinkling White Illumination festival makes snow-blanketed Odori Park and other locations look magical.

Subways pump and spurt after-work crowds into throbbing late-night shopping districts like arteries. In Susukino, the biggest

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entertainment district north of Tokyo, neon signs shout karaoke! Clubs! Izakaya pubs! But first, I need to eat.

The Susukino branch of revered Suginome restaurant (suginome.jp/english) serves melt-on-the-tongue sashimi in a traditional tatami setting. Across the road, the massive kid-pleasing DEN Buffet (den-buffet.com/en) invites binge fests on snow, hairy or king crab, shabu-shabu and zangi fried chicken.

It’s a bitter -7°C though and I’m craving a bowl of hot ramen – Sapporo’s signature is a twisty medium-width noodle in thick miso soup.

I wander through the incredibly narrow Shin Ramen Yokocho (New Ramen Alley), where nook kitchens put their spin on the city’s classic dish, and land in a five-metre shop with a yellow sign showing a noodle-slurping bear. The cook has been throwing flavour bombs with Japanese disco tunes since 1972 – the ramen is some of the best I’ve ever had. Before calling it a night, I stop at Café Noymond (noymond.owst.jp) to sample a Sapporo dining trend, “shime parfait” – carefully constructed desserts matched with booze.

In the sea-bound, green-pastured landmass of Hokkaido, home to almost 5.5 million people, the unique food culture is heavy on seafood – everything from scallops and prawns to sea urchin and crab – but the cornucopia is also made up of other oddities like raw milk ice-cream, Jingisukan (a barbecued mutton dish), tripe and vending machines cranking out hot cans of specialty corn soup.

3 G RE AT ACTIVITIES FOR KIDS GE T YOUR NIN JA K ICK S > At Ninja Do! Sapporo Ninja Experience, sensei Yakama suits up students (and game parents) in ninja gear and comically teaches them the arts of sword fighting, shuriken stars and “poison” darts. hokkaido-ninjado.com

UP, UP A ND AWAY > Mount Moiwa reaches 531 metres into the sky. At sunset coast to the top aboard a cable car to ring the Bell of Happiness, spy on the night stars from a planetarium and savour a 360-degree view of Sapporo as it twinkles. moiwa.sapporo-dc.co.jp

TA K E A SP IN > You’ll find yourself 78 metres above street level when your heated gondola reaches the top of the Noria Ferris Wheel (below), on the roof of Norbesa shopping complex.

It’s a fun way to view the city. norbesa.jp

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S APP O R O’S BES T SK IIN G

Another quintessentially Japanese way of warming up on a cold day is, of course, the onsen (a natural hot spring). The next morning I hop on board the Kappa Liner Bus at JR Sapporo station for the 70-minute trip into onsen territory. Volcanic Hokkaido is hotspotted with mineral springs and the village of Jozankei is famed for ryokans (traditional Japanese inns with private onsen) and free public footbaths that look like fancy bus stops, where you soak for longevity or friendship.

Bathing is about wellness but also bonding – and inside Hoheikyo Onsen (hoheikyo.co.jp), a mountainside bathhouse open to daytrippers, I commune. Naked. Dropping the towel in the women-only section (men have their own), I copycat the ritual of scrubbing before soaking and by the time I expose myself to the open-air onsen I’m feeling loose and liberated. Ta-da! This is bliss.

Steam from the 39°C water swirls into frigid air and blooms of sodium, calcium and hydrogen carbonate – a miracle for the skin, I’m told – dissolve as I wallow in the idyllic winterscape. Even with my head resting on a pillow of snow, falling snowflakes sizzle on my aura before touching my face. When it approaches over-hot, I snap an icicle off a rock and let it melt down my back. Hiss, crack.

That’s more like it.

JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O JAPA N.

BRE AKFA S T IS SER V ED! > Stay where there’s a buffet. Breakfast isn’t a thing in Sapporo. Coffeehouse chains like Miyakoshiya Coffee do commuter hours and convenience stores have staples such as salmon rice balls.

But Hotel Mystays Premier Sapporo Park (mystays. com), an easy walk to transport and Susukino, serves farm-to-table a la carte, traditional Japanese and a huge local and Western breakfast buffet.

JE T S TA R.C O M

> For day trips Sapporo Kokusai Ski Resort (sapporo-kokusai.jp/en) is a one-hour bus ride from the city and offers fourhour and full-day lift passes. This one is perfectly pitched for intermediates. > For luxe About 90 minutes south-west of Sapporo, Rusutsu Resort (rusutsu.co.jp) fuses superdry powder and tree skiing with fast gondolas. Luxury resorts like the ski-in, skiout The Westin Rusutsu Resort feature a wellness spa. Or for a real winterin-the-woods feel, go for a traditional log house. > For thrills The Furano Ski Area (princehotels. co.jp), two hours from Sapporo, has hosted the FIS World Cup 10 times. For adrenaline lovers, there are steep runs at the top of the mountain, great off-piste skiing and all-night skiing. > For virtual runs Visit the Sapporo Olympic Museum (sapporo-olympicmuseum. jp) for virtual-reality ski jumping and simulated cross-country racing and bobsledding, then catch a chair lift to the Mount Okura Observatory for knockout views.

Daniel Honda

NISEKO M O U N TAIN

> For skills Famous for powder and groomed snow across 30 runs for skiers, boarders and snow scooters, Niseko Mountain Resort Grand Hirafu (grandhirafu.jp) is a 3.5-hour bus ride from Sapporo. Expect two hotels, 10 eating spots and snow schools catering for skiers and snowboarders of all ages.

T HE 360 O N...

Kangaroo Island —Just a short hop from the South Australian mainland is a sanctuary for wildlife that’s a haven for those who like their nature rugged – and spectacular—

N AT U RE

Rock it

W IL DL IFE

Roo vs lion

> Apart from the eponymous kangaroos, which are smaller and darker than the mainland cousins they last saw about 10,000 years ago, the best-known wildlife drawcard of this richly varied island is the endangered Australian sea lion. Seal Bay (sealbay.sa.gov.au) is the only place in the world where you can literally get amongst them on the sand and watch them sleep, surf, sometimes fight and feed their impossibly cute babies.

K A N GAR O O ISL A ND SPIRITS

> High on the island’s southern coast you’ll find the weathered granite boulders that are the Remarkable Rocks. Take a camera and capture their abstract shapes; look towards Antarctica from your perch 60 metres above the Southern Ocean; and take extra care when it’s wet and windy – the same forces that helped shape these landmarks over 500 million years are still going strong.

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MORE TO KNOW

HAPPY BIRTHDAY > Flinders Chase National Park turns 100 this month.

Embrace its heritage by staying in a one-room stone hut that was the postman’s fortnightly stopover or a lighthouse keeper’s cottage with a wood-fired stove (parks.sa.gov.au).

B U ZZ

Bee cool

> The year after its prized bees arrived from the mainland in 1884, Kangaroo Island was declared a bee sanctuary.

It’s the world’s oldest and thanks to strict quarantine measures it retains the purest existing strain of Ligurian bees. In a good year the island’s 51 registered beekeepers can harvest up to an estimated 300 tonnes of honey from their 3333 hives.

BY THE NUMBERS > Only 110 kilometres south of Adelaide, KI is Australia’s third-largest island (after Tasmania and Melville) and its 4400 square kilometres are home to just over 100 sheep for every one of its 4700 residents.

Liquid love

> At almost seven times the size of Singapore, KI still retains about half of its native vegetation. Around 120 hectares of the island is under vine and there are 13 wineries, six with cellar doors. There’s also a distillery, pubs, a cider maker, microbreweries and a pop-up caravan bar on the beach where sandy feet are welcome.

WHEE… > Get your heart pumping at Little Sahara, a dune system where you can rent a board or toboggan slicked with Ligurian beeswax (naturally!) and zoom down the slopes (kioutdooraction.com.au).

WORDS_ HELEN MARTIN

FOOD + DRINK

A DVEN T U RE

—For centuries, seasoned fighters and enthusiastic novices have flocked to Thailand to learn the sport of Muay Thai. David Allegretti heads to Patong to find out just what makes “the art of eight limbs” so captivating—

EYE OF THE

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T H A IL A N D

“One!” he shouts.

I make a left jab. “One two!” Left jab, right hook. “One two!”

Left-right again. I drop my hands. Gotta keep them up – “Block!” A kick… but my brain doesn’t register in time and I’m gently knocked in my lower left ribs. Were the kick not coming from my benevolent trainer I’d be a goner. He laughs as I wipe my face with a ringside towel.

“Let’s go again,” I say with determination.

“That’s the last kick you land.”

Gloves on. Jab. Hook. Jab. A kick…

Blocked. I did it! I blocked him. But, a second later, another one comes. My trainer, 33-year-old Kamphol Jitbumrung, is like a 178-centimetre Thai spider. Smooth in his movements, unpredictable and quick to take advantage of my weak left guard. Muay Thai isn’t known as the art of eight limbs for nothing.

Developed centuries ago, this close-combat martial art uses all parts of the body as both weapon and shield and is Thailand’s national sport. Although calling it a sport seems to take away from the cultural and historical significance of Muay Thai. It’s a proud tradition and a seamless blending of art, passion, physicality and self-expression.

It’s the hope of discovering why Muay Thai plays a significant role in Thailand’s national identity that has brought me to Patong, on the west coast of Phuket. The island, 850 kilometres south of Bangkok, is a favourite destination among international tourists who are drawn to its long stretches of white sand coast, quaint villages and numerous beach resorts.

At the end of my training session, I climb out of the ring and gaze onto the streets as I dry my sweaty hair with an already damp towel. The panoramic view from the top-floor gym at the Hotel Indigo Phuket Patong (hotelindigo.com) is inspiring. This compact but electrifying neighbourhood has transformed from remote, humid outpost into a culturally rich hotbed of live entertainment, neon lights, street markets and nightlife.

DAVID ALLEGRE T TI WIT H TR AINER K A MPH OL JITB U MRU N G

A few hours later, I kick-off my night close to home at the hotel’s Pots, Pints & Tikis (fb.me/ potspintsandtikis) – a modern bar where the young, hip crowd like to start the evening with cocktails before hitting the chaos of Bangla Road, Phuket’s nightlife hub located a 10-minute walk away. If you’re after well-priced drinks, street performers and fascinating people watching, this is the place to go.

But before I drown my senses in its colourful chaos, I decide to soak up the arts and take in a cabaret show. Not your ordinary run-of-the-mill cabaret though – this is Simon Cabaret (phuket-simoncabaret.com), one of Thailand’s most famous ladyboy productions, which promises a “glamorous evening with a spectacular show”. It certainly delivers – this cabaret is professional and entertaining. An explosion of colour, originality and grace, the performers light up the stage with their songs and dances that take the crowd on a journey across time and cultures. It’s easy to see why visitors flock here every night.

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but with plenty of hidden gems up its sleeve, it’s a destination that keeps on giving.

There are two ways to cross the Blue Mountains; the Great Western Highway takes you through the prettiest and most popular towns including Katoomba and Leura, while the Bells Line of Road is where you’ll find some of the region’s best-kept secrets. Luckily you can cut through the middle of the mountains and experience both.

Begin in Western Sydney and take the M4 west, stopping for a coffee at Cassiopeia in Springwood (cassiopeia.com.au). First on the agenda has to be taking in some of the spectacular vistas the mountains are famous for. Echo Point is the most popular spot to see the Three Sisters rock formations but if you want somewhere away from the crowds, detour to The Olympian Rock Lookout just beyond Leura; you could have it all to yourself.

Continue on to Blackheath for some of the most innovative cooking in the region; lunch at the extraordinary and always surprising Fumo (fumorestaurant.com.au).

Then it’s time to make your way through the dense bushland of the Darling Causeway and loop back east Car rental is offered by Hertz Group via Car Trawler. Jetstar doesn’t offer car rental directly. For full terms and conditions please visit jetstar.com/au/en/holidays-bookingconditions. Hertz Terms and Conditions apply on all Hertz rentals.

BLUE M O U N TA I N S B O TA N IC GARDEN

BILPIN

SPICERS SANGOMA R E T R E AT FUMO

BL U E M O U N TA I N S N AT IO N AL PA R K

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SPRINGWOOD

WESTERN SYDNEY

towards Bilpin, with a stop at the Blue Mountains Botanic Garden (bluemountainsbotanicgarden.com.au); their cool-climate rhododendrons are gorgeous when in bloom.

As you wind your way down the Bells Line of Road, there’s more unspoilt scenery; make sure to open your windows to listen for the pinging call of the native bellbirds. Finally, end your journey in a plush king bed in an Escarpment Suite overlooking the forest canopy at the luxurious Spicers Sangoma Retreat (spicersretreats.com).

The Blue Mountains are a UNESCO World Heritage site of exemplary beauty and there’s no better way to experience it than with a road trip.

Check out the great range of Hertz cars and deals available at JETSTAR.COM/CARHIRE

After the show, it’s time to enter the realm of the “disco” tuktuks. There’s really nothing like traversing this buzzing nightlife hub in what is essentially a mini nightclub on wheels. The experience is even sweeter when you add champagne and good pals to the mix.

I come to the realisation that I won’t survive the night on a liquid diet. Luckily Patong is renowned for its food and offers an ever-growing list of authentic eateries – from hole-in-the-wall family restaurants to hip beachside cafés.

Chalong Bay Distillery (chalongbayrum.com) provides the perfect opportunity to enjoy a tasty assortment of all that makes Asian food great – think light yet hearty pad Thai and tender, aromatic chicken satay skewers – accompanied by a skilfully mixed Mojito in a tranquil outdoor dining area. For something a little more homely, do your tastebuds a solid and try the chicken on offer at Briley Chicken Rice. The name says it all… It’s chicken. It’s rice. It’s bloody good.

While there’s great food everywhere in Patong, Kalim Beach – a five-minute tuktuk ride to the north – is a go-to when the sun goes down, as there’s an endless array of late-night street food vendors. A highlight was ordering a plate of pad kra pao and banana roti, then heading down to the beach to enjoying this simple but delicious meal by the water’s edge. Perfection.

Offering local flavours of a different kind, Butcher’s Garden (fb.me/butchersgarden) back at Hotel Indigo showcases high-quality local meat and is the only restaurant in Patong with a dry-ageing cabinet. A Muay Thai fighter does need protein and I enjoyed getting stuck into a tender 160-day dry-aged steak. Pescetarians are also catered for, as the restaurant serves excellent seafood from the Andaman Sea. The problem with having a big night out is that it’s not conducive to optimal Muay Thai training the following day. At 7am the next morning, I’m prett y groggy when I meet up with Kamphol in front of the hotel for a run in the morning sun. It’s already a humid 33°C. Once I take my mind off the heat and the symphony of jackhammers pounding away in my brain, running starts to feel really nice.

I follow Kamphol through the streets of Patong and by the time we arrive at the beach I’m actually enjoying it. Wild.

Thailand is home to some of the world’s most spectacular white sand beaches and Patong Beach is no exception. The scenery is stunning and I’m beginning to feel like running seven kilometres before training – standard amongst professional fighters according to Kamphol – won’t kill me. Even though we don’t run quite that far, the humidity is getting to me by the time we get back to the gym and the air conditioning offers a welcome respite.

H OTEL INDIG O

T H A IL A N D

W HE R E T O S TAY The newly opened Hotel Indigo Phuket Patong offers cool, neighbourhood-inspired boutique accommodation. Chic neon-lit design meets lush greenery and makes for a soothing retreat in the heart of the hustle and bustle of Patong.

The hotel is home to a spectacular rooftop pool, the Pots, Pints & Tikis bar, Butcher’s Garden restaurant (don’t miss their breakfast buffet) and a state-of-the-art gym where you can book a session in the Muay Thai boxing ring with a professional trainer. hotelindigo.com

A “DISC O” T UK T UK

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With gloves strapped on, we get into the ring and Kamphol begins to test me with punches and kicks. I can’t believe how much I’ve learnt in just one day. Kamphol, a former high-level fighter, was born to teach. I’m landing combinations that seemed completely impossible a mere 48 hours ago and it feels good. Really good. There’s something addictive about making rapid improvement in a pursuit that only yesterday felt so foreign.

We take a quick water break and when I confess to Kamphol that I’m considering leaving my old life behind and joining an intensive Muay Thai training camp, I’m only half joking. “See, it’s easy!” he says with a laugh.

“And with practice it will be even better.”

It’s all about connecting the brain signals and the muscles to produce automatic responses, which comes in time. It’s only my second session and already I feel a lot sharper, more confident and find certain actions becoming automatic. “When you taught me the knee guard in the first session I’d get all crossed up in my feet and basically trip over myself,” I tell Kamphol, as we’re strapping our gloves again. “I’m not having that issue today.”

He smiles knowingly. “Everyone is like that in the beginning. My first time was the same.”

The following day I get a ringside seat at a professional Muay Thai exhibition fight; it’s fascinating to watch the fighters’ hands and feet become like swords and daggers – swift weapons of war. While their knees, shins and elbows – toughened and calloused by years of vigorous training – act as robust guards, they are just as swift ly utilised when defence switches to offence. The raw emotion and energy of the fight has me hooked.

On my last day in Phuket, a few hours before I board a flight back to Melbourne, I have one last chat with Kamphol. He tells me about his life as a young fighter, his training and the untimely injury that cut his career short. But it’s when the conversation swings away from his achievements, and he talks about the youth and future of Thailand, that Kamphol is visibly filled with pride; despite the heat, goosebumps develop on his forearms as he speaks of the young fighters he trains and the growing global popularity of Muay Thai.

JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O P H U K E T.

PATO N G BEAC H

For Kamphol, Muay Thai represents a noble way of life – one that teaches young Thais the importance of discipline and not giving in to the struggles they face inside the ring and, more importantly, outside it. “When you feel so very tired, you’re hurt and you want to stop, you cannot do that. You have to keep going, you have to fight... with your heart,” he explains. Pausing for a moment, he looks me right in the eyes and says, “And when you do that, when you fight with your heart, you feel special – fantastic.”

“People think Muay Thai is difficult,” he continues. “That’s not correct, it’s very easy – I think you can agree.” I can. This deeply ingrained facet of Thai culture is as much a mental pursuit as it is a physical one – once you get the hang of all the basic moves and combinations and begin to get into a flow, the experience is almost transcendent.

JE T S TA R.C O M

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FA MILY

go ! d l i w —What do you get when you mix nature, culture and a whole lot of fun? Danielle Norton finds the very best places to take the little ones for a mind-blowing adventure in the city of Hobart—

Ride to the top > Kunanyi/Mount Wellington, sharply outlined against the bright blue sky, beckons from almost every vantage point in this waterside city – and offers the perfect opportunity to get amidst nature without going too far from town.

Book tickets on the hop-on-hop-off kunanyi/Mt Wellington Explorer (mtwellingtonexplorer.com.au) and be regaled by the informative and funny commentary from the driver.

Get off at The Springs bus stop and grab a snack at the Lost Freight café (lostfreightcafe.com), where the kids can lounge on a beanbag drinking milkshakes before lacing up their hiking boots and tackling one of the many tracks crisscrossing the sides of the mountain. Pinnacle Road leads to a glorious lookout – but rug up: the temperature is usually 10 degrees cooler than Hobart at the summit. wellingtonpark.org.au/

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SAL A M A N CA M ARKE TS

K U N A N YI/M O U N T WELL IN G TO N

T H E T R AV ELLER

Explore the market > Every Saturday between 8.30am and 3pm the tantalising, sweet aroma of French crepes and Dutch poffertjes, mixed with the fragrant spices of samosas, burritos, noodles and kebabs, wafts through the air at the Salamanca Market on the picturesque waterfront near the docks. Musicians entertain the crowds checking out more than 300 stalls selling homemade jams, cakes and drinks, artworks, jewellery and wooden craft items – some made from Tasmania’s rare Huon pine. Kids will love running around the market where the colourful atmosphere, range of international dishes, variety of crafts and friendly, chatty stallholders will keep them entertained. salamancamarket.com.au

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HOBART

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BRU N Y ISL A ND W HITE WALL ABY

Step back in time > Port Arthur, a 90-minute drive south east from Hobart along the Arthur Highway, is certainly worth the journey to visit one of the most well-preserved and significant convict-era sites in Australia. Glide around the port on a harbour cruise (included in the entry fee) while the boat’s captain tells stories about the prisoners’ escape attempts, then wander around the 19th-century prison cells and crumbling exercise yards to picture the history in action.

Imagining the intense challenges of a convict’s experience, their hands raw from manual labour, in freezing conditions, far from their homeland in what was described as a “godforsaken” island, will give kids a history lesson that no big-city classroom can replicate. portarthur.org.au

Hop to an island

M O N A FERRY

Attack art > Kids and museums are only friends for a short time but when it’s as mind-blowing as Mona, there is plenty to mesmerise everyone. The experience starts when you board the funky camouflaged ferry at the Brooke Street Pier – the anklebiters will love hanging from the animal sculptures and riding the sheep statues on the outside deck.

Once there, children won’t be able to resist the famous poo machine, Wim Delvoye’s Cloaca Professional. This fascinating project imitates bodily functions in a perfect marriage of science and art – every day at 11am and 4pm the machine is fed portions of food and enzymes; digestion and then excretion occurs (at 2pm).

Other kid-friendly highlights over three levels of artworks include Richard Wilson’s 20:50 and Grotto by Randy Polumbo, while light shows and short films enchant children of all ages. mona.net.au

> Bruny Island is famous for its white wallabies and rugged beauty. A 30-kilometre drive south from Hobart will take you to Kettering where a regular ferry service to the island operates. Climb the 279 stairs to The Neck lookout at the isthmus between North and South Bruny to take in the 360-degree views. Then refuel with coffee and pancakes at the Penguin and Pardalote Cafe (penguin-andpardalote-cafe.business.site) or stop in at the Bruny Island Cheese Co. (brunyislandcheese.com.au). With kids and dogs lounging and playing beneath the trees, the area has the relaxed feel of colonial picnics in early Australian Impressionist paintings – only with more hipster clothing. brunyisland.org.au

L O C AL T IP Head lickety-split to Van Diemens Land Creamery’s floating punt at Constitution Dock for 24 flavours of ice-cream, including bubblegum! vdlcreamery.com.au.

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U NZO O

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See a devil > The Tasmanian Devil Unzoo sanctuary has an emphasis on creating spaces for humans to observe the endangered animals in their natural habitats. There’s no better or more fun way to learn about nature and conservation than with a Devil Tracker Tour, during which guests travel by 4WD around the nearby bush areas, helping rangers examine the previous night’s devil activity via hidden infra-red cameras. The monitoring is an attempt to conserve the species, as up to 90 per cent of the population has been lost in the last 20 years – with estimates of wild devils remaining as low as 10,000. tasmaniandevilunzoo.com.au

L O C AL T IP Wear the kids out with a fun day trip. Holiday attraction Tasmazia has eight mazes and a model village, delightfully called Lower Crackpot. tasmazia.com.au

Nurture in nature

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JE T S TA R O FFER S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O H O B A R T.

> Eaglehawk Neck, a tiny town that serves as a gateway to the Tasman Peninsula, is a sensational spot to see nature at its finest.

Millions of years of ocean tides and wild southern winds have created Tasman Arch and the Blowhole, which spouts water up into the air in majestic sprays. There are a multitude of hiking trails dotted in and around the Tasman National Park, including very short ones that are easy for families to take on.

Another natural attraction not to be missed is Remarkable Cave, located 7.5 kilometres south of the Port Arthur Historic Site on Safety Cove Road. Descend the 100 steps to the viewing platform to see how rough seas have carved the sandstone into the shape of the map of Tasmania. It’s a popular spot for Instagrammers and surfers alike (but before you go, check with Parks & Wildlife Service Tasmania that access has reopened. Upgrade works are due to finish in November 2019). parks.tas.gov.au

JE T S TA R.C O M

S E E the WORLD D I F F E R E N T LY

O N S A L E N OW M TC .CO M . AU

Seoul 4 8 H O U RS IN

—With just two days to explore this BBQ and bath obsessed South Korean capital, Paul Ewart discovers a way of life that’s as raucous as it is soulful—

B UKC H O N H A N OK VILL AGE

N OR AEBA N G

G WA N G JA N G M ARKE T

T H E T R AV ELLER

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THE ULTIMATE HIT LIST...

JJIM JILBA N G P UBL IC BAT HIN G

Find outer beauty Did you know that South Korea is among the world’s fastest-growing beauty markets globally (the industry is projected to reach a whopping $7.2 billion in two years)? In this country, school graduations may come with a nose job gift and South Korean men are the world’s largest users of skincare products per capita. So, for skincare-loving shoppers, Seoul is a veritable treasure trove. Head to Chicor (the Korean equivalent of Sephora or Mecca) where shelves groan under the weight of more than 250 local and international brands, including the ultimate K-beauty buy: sheet masks, from a mere $2 a pop.

JO GYESA TEMPLE

Get naked Like their Japanese neighbours, Koreans are bathing aficionados.

To take the plunge (get it?) into the world of jjimjilbang, check your inhibitions (and clothes) at the door, as swimming suits are banned in these public baths. Make sure you shower thoroughly before entering, then, once inside, you may discover warm baths, cold plunge pools, steam rooms, saunas and more – many jjimjilbang are huge, multi-storey affairs and also house restaurants and even karaoke rooms. If you’re game you can add on a traditional Korean seshin scrub, whereby your entire body is rigorously exfoliated until layers of dead skin and grime are removed.

SH OPPIN G FOR BEAU T Y

Turn back time Get a sense of Seoul of yesteryear by exploring the winding laneways of Bukchon Hanok Village. This collection of hanoks (traditional houses), some of which are hundreds of years old, stand in stark contrast with the surrounding neon-lights and high rises. Many are now galleries and boutiques, though some are still lived in. And while it is pretty touristy, the network of alleys thins out the steeper the incline gets, which means if you put in the leg work you’ll soon have a quiet stretch to yourself. Plus, at the top, there are killer views over the tiled rooftops to the cityscape beyond.

Wander a market There really is no better place to experience the richness of Korean cuisine than at a local market. And in Seoul the granddaddy of all markets is Gwangjang. In the city’s oldest permanent food market you can mix with hungry locals, peoplewatch (it’s worth a trip for this reason alone) and eat your way through piles of kimchi, endless mountains of mung bean pancakes and bibimbap. Adventurous types with strong stomachs might consider more squeamish delicacies such as blood sausage and pig trotters.

Make your choice, pull up a stool at the counter and tuck in.

Nourish the mind After feeding the body, take some time to feed the soul. South Korea is home to more than 900 traditional temples, each offering an insight into the country’s 1,700-year-old Buddhist history. Jogyesa Temple is one of the most important but also the most accessible, given its location in the heart of downtown. Considering the frenetic pace of Seoul, spend a while here to cultivate some inner-peace.

Hit all the right notes Then undo all that self-improvement with a lively night. Locals are fanatical about noraebang (karaoke rooms) and an evening in one of these spots is a quintessential Seoul after-dark activity. Easily located via their flashing disco lights and the sound of wailing interpretations of ‘80s classics from within, there’s a heap of noraebang in student-y Hongdae, most available to rent by the hour. Song menus cover all the foreign classics alongside a tonne of K-Pop, naturally.

And now for something different...

THE DEEP DIVE...

Korean BBQ for first-timers > Succulent, juicy and cooked to perfection; each bite-size portion of meat I take from the open-air grill seems to grow tastier and tastier.

With fat and sauce running down my chin, I involuntarily grin. I’ve abandoned everything I know about dining etiquette and I don’t care because I’m happily lost – and a little heady – in a meat-lover’s paradise.

If you’re a hungry carnivore then it would be a heinous culinary crime to visit Seoul and not partake in this taste sensation. Known locally as gogi gui, which refers to the method of grilling meat on gas or charcoal grills inlaid into dining tables, Korean BBQ is easily the nation’s biggest foodie export. And why not? It’s fun, social, and seriously yummy. So it’s no wonder locals will take any excuse to head to a barbecue restaurant.

But as a foreign first-timer to the city, it can be a daunting task to choose from the staggering number of “meat houses” that sit on almost every corner. Thankfully, I planned ahead and booked myself on ZenKimchi’s Ultimate Korean BBQ Night Out tour.

Launching one of the country’s first English language food blogs 15 years ago, ZenKimchi founder – and my tour guide for the evening – American-born Joe McPherson has scoured the length and breadth of Seoul for BBQ perfection since arriving in South Korea from his native Alabama and has shared his findings with foodie luminaries, including the late, great Anthony Bourdain. So I know I’m in good hands. And while there’s a glut of options available, it turns out that not all of these eateries are made equal. Far from it, in fact.

“If anyone is coming to Seoul for a night or two, I take them to my favourite restaurant in Mapo,” Joe says. “Out of all districts in the city, Mapo is the best-known for BBQ. Mapo-style means charcoal-grilled pork, aged kimchi, and a raucous atmosphere.” Upon arriving in the district, this claim to fame instantly becomes apparent with block upon block of neon-lit grill houses. And Joe’s favourite eatery is clearly very popular. Once seated, I’m told that the first and most important task is to choose the kind of meat you want.

“Even though beef is most associated with Korean BBQ, it’s not as common in Korea itself because it’s so pricey,” explains Joe. “Here, pork is king – especially samgyeopsal (sliced pork belly). A lot of newbies go for galbi (short ribs) and marinated meats. I call this ‘tourist food’. The best meats are fresh and unadorned with anything. This way you can’t hide bad meat behind sweet marinades.”

After the pork belly arrives, my first stumbling block is expecting it to be cut up ready for grilling. In an

W H AT The Ultimate Korean BBQ Night Out, $167 per person. zenkimchi.com

W HERE Mapo, Seoul

HIG HL IG H TS The smug feeling you’ll derive knowing that you escaped a touristy trap restaurant and are instead rubbing shoulders with genuine locals in a superauthentic BBQ joint.

H A NDY HIN T Wear comfortable shoes as there is some walking involved; arrive hungry as there’s plenty to eat; and don’t plan anything too early the next day – if drinking soju, you may wake up feeling dusty!

“I LE ARN E ARLY O N T H AT BEER A N D LO CAL SPIRI T S O JU ARE ESSEN T I AL C O MP O NEN TS OF T HE OVER ALL BB Q EXPERIEN CE.”

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authentic BBQ joint not only do you grill the meat yourself, you also carve it up. It’s DIY all the way. And don’t go searching for the knife like I did. In Seoul, scissors are used to turn meat into bite-size portions. As I attempt to grill like a boss, I quickly realise that a career as a burger flipper at McDonald’s probably isn’t for me. My lacklustre attempts draw assistance from a nearby server who deftly flips each piece in seconds, ensuring it cooks just right. Joe informs me that burning the meat is the biggest mistake BBQ rookies make.

Next, sides, or banchan, arrive.

These vegie dishes usually include seasoned green onion, bean sprouts and, of course, kimchi. Speaking of kimchi, given that it has been a fixture in my fridge for years, I make an astonishing discovery when watching my fellow diners: kimchi can not only be grilled, but it tastes way better warm. Who knew?

One of the best ways to eat the finished product is san choy bow-style in a lettuce wrap. I take pieces of the pork belly and place it on the leaf with one hand, before adding some ssamjang sauce (a mixture of soybean paste and red pepper paste) and the banchan on top. Delicious. Within mere minutes I’m rolling my next one, which turns out to be a good idea, as I need some hearty fare to soak up the accompanying local booze.

I learn early on that beer and local spirit soju are essential components of the overall BBQ experience. Indeed, the consumption of both continues when we leave to head to our next stop: a Korean pub that has shades of a no-frills Japanese izakaya.

While we only linger for another few hours (well past the three hours allocated to our tour!) it occurs to me just how easly it would be to continue the revelry till dawn.

Handily, most BBQ restaurants remain open into the wee hours and some never close, meaning that you can end a night out with a sumptuous 2am meat-feast. A late-night kebab or pizza back home will never appeal the same again!

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A MUM’S JOURNEY In late 2018, St Joseph’s College Hunters Hill came together to celebrate the mothers of the graduating class of 2018. As the mums took their seats, one mother, Bez Hines from Young NSW, shared her story about her son Julius, Joeys and the journey her family has taken

M

y youngest son, Julius, has just completed his final year at Joeys. It’s exciting that he will soon be entering the next stage of his life, however I wish I had more sons so I could stay a part of the school for longer. It seems my son is ready to leave but I am not!

I feel very lucky he ended up at Joeys. We had initially enrolled Julius in another Catholic independent school but luckily, my husband Gerard attended an information night at Joeys, just in case. After listening to the Headmaster speak, wandering around the school and chatting with the boys, Gerard called me and said, ‘We need to send Julius to Joeys’.

It was the boys who changed his heart that evening. It was their manners and enthusiasm. It was their openness and sense of fun. Gerard commented that the day boys didn’t seem to want to go home. What a good advertisement for a school – students who don’t want to leave!

Joeys has a history of educating boys who didn’t want to leave. My grandfather graduated in the 1920s, only going home to Trangie at the end of each year. Between terms he would usually stay with his uncle, John, who was the barber at Joeys for 50 years. My own uncle and brother were also boarders.

Our start at the school was a significant change for the family. Julius was reluctant to even get in the car on our first trip from Young to Sydney, he then refused to let his beloved dog out of the car. Eventually we pried the dog from Julius’ tight embrace with the three of us crying and the dog whimpering. It was hard.

That first trip to Sydney now feels like a lifetime ago.

The time between Year 7 and 12 has flown by in the blink of an eye. There was the anticipation of the next school holiday, bouts of homesickness, stress about work, winter colds, hot sleepless nights – and that was just me!

The same was true for Julius. Weeks and terms were marked by the ebb and flow of school life. From earning a great maths mark and a win in rugby, to getting dropped from the team and the occasional Sunday detention. There was excitement and disappointment, all of which have shaped the young man he is today.

Then, all of a sudden, Year 12 was upon us. Although this last year has been hard work for all of us, for the mothers it has also been filled with lunches, Masses, dinners and weekends away. At the end of our time here, we can be proud of our sons and celebrate the connections we have made with our beautiful friends.

As a Joeys mother, I’ve relished the school’s rituals: the Family Masses, Grandparents’ Day, the cheering, sports rallies and assemblies. My favourite of all the Joeys’ rituals, though, was lunch leave. As our families set up lunch on the College lawn, and our sons raced from picnic blanket to picnic blanket, the number of boys who came to lunch grew considerably between recess and lunch. Two boys often turned into 20 and it was a case of the more the merrier.

These lunches were a lovely way of getting to know Julius and his mates, and I often thought, there isn’t a place I would rather be than here with my son and his friends at this magnificent school. I often reflect on our privilege and good fortune to be able to access a Joeys education for our son.

We have had some wonderful years watching our son enjoy, and sometimes endure, secondary school.

Throughout this time Julius has been cared for, educated and mentored by the kindest and strongest of people. They have never let him walk alone.

An Old Boy once described Joeys to me as ‘a good place’. This simple phrase encapsulates it for me. It’s hard to understand what makes Joeys so special. There’s the Marist ethos, history, Brothers, teachers, parents, facilities, sport, art and culture. It’s all of this and more. Joeys has soul.

Julius will always be a Joeys Old Boy. This is a source of great pride and the basis of life-long friendships for both him and us. In his time at the school our son has become one of the boys my husband met at the information night so many years ago. He’s now a young man and, keeping true to the Joeys motto, like all Joeys Old Boys, he will continue to strive for better things. www.joeys.org

“It was the boys who changed his heart that evening. It was their manners and enthusiasm.

It was their openness and sense of fun.�

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the cut > THE BEST OF WHERE TO EAT, DRINK AND PL AY

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> The Museum of New Zealand, Te Papa Tongarewa, sits on 152 “shock absorbers” in case of earthquake.

S O U T H AU ST R AL I A

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> The Riverland produces more than a quarter of Australia’s wine grapes, including shiraz and merlot.

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> The World Heritage site of the Great Barrier Reef is larger than Victoria and Tasmania combined.

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E AT + DRINK BAY GR O CER

BYRON B AY —The food scene has always been upstaged by this beachside mecca’s good looks and laid-back vibe – until now. Vanessa Frey hits the hotspots—

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> LOCURA. Having conquered the café scene, the Three Blue Ducks team now have their sights on tequila-and-taco territory. Their latest venture – a Latin American diner and late-night bar – takes up residence in the old La La Land nightclub on Lawson Street.

Expect an open-air concrete space, a Nick Royds-curated cocktail list (Love Buzz, anyone?) and deck-spun tunes. locura.com.au

best new hotspots Local winemaker Peter Windrim and Shelter’s Andrew Love have nailed the brief at this hot new laneway haunt in central Byron. The dress code is bow tie and board shorts, the snacks are served sans cutlery and the room can spontaneously break into song. Add a “living list” of 50 natural wines and you’re set for a Supernatural supper. supernaturalcellars.com.au

FABULOUS FOOD HALL Asian emporium Red Ginger (redginger.com.au) is the go-to for authentic dumplings (eat in or take home), fine leaf teas, groceries and gifts.

While away an afternoon at this breezy white-and-wicker bar off the busy strip near Main Beach, sipping from an impressive 100-plus liquid larder and grazing from a mod-Oz sharing menu that leans heavily into the region. The charcuterie board featuring free-range, fennelinfused salami consciously cured in Billinudgel goes down a treat with a Ballina-brewed West Coast IPA. loftbyronbay.com.au

> GREEN ROOM AT BEACH HOTEL. Even the iconic “Beachy” is flying the flag for locavores. Gone are the pub’s pokies; in their place is a drinking den stocked with bar food made from locally sourced produce – including Cheeses Loves You – and beverages such as Tintenbar Distillery moonshine. With sunset specials (4-6pm) and live music (nightly in the pub), fun times are guaranteed. beachhotel.com.au

> STONE & WOOD BREWERY. With 1160 square metres of floor space, a 40-people capacity tasting room and 28 taps (12 different beers and ciders), this is a brewpub on an epic scale. The canteen rotates almost weekly, so take your pick from whatever deliciousness the 100 Mile Table crew is cooking that day, and a Pacific Ale amped up with the citrusy hop big gun, Galaxy. stoneandwood.com.au

LOF T

Facing image: Kate Holmes. Additional words: Sudeshna Ghosh

> SUPERNATURAL CELLARS.

S UPERN AT UR AL CELL ARS

> LOFT.

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TA K E A B O W Outdoor dining specialists Blue Ginger Picnics (bluegingerpicnics.com) took out silver at the 2018 Qantas Australian Tourism Awards.

> BAYLEAF. It’s not all about the Instagram closeup at Bayleaf – good food (plated perfectly) and great coffee (made with ethically sourced Blackboard beans) are the cornerstone of this Byron institution. Single-origin, batch-brewed, filtered, pour-over, plus a signature series – it’s all here.

If you don’t fancy the wait, grab the Breakky Greens – one poached egg with broccoli, shredded kale, avocado, chilli, buckwheat kernels, fresh herbs and pistachio nuts – and a brew from the takeaway counter. bayleafbyronbay.com

> BAY GROCER. The old Green Garage at the southern end of town has been reborn by 100 Mile Table duo Jeremy Burn and Sarah Swan. There’s a café serving cracking counter food up front (daily pastries, foccacia and sweets) and a heaving grocery store out back. Swing by for picnic supplies (sandwiches, salads, roasted chicken) and pastries, both sweet and savoury, made in house by the team at Bay Grocer. Oh and did we mention the on-site parking? baygrocer.com

> THE BYRON BAY GENERAL STORE. It was meant to be a low-key hangout for locals. But word got out and now this earthy eatery on the Bangalow (back) Road, is on everyone’s radar. It could be the infectiously friendly atmosphere, the recycled-timber fit-out – a respectful nod to its general-store roots, which stretch all the way back to 1947 – or even the plentiful vegan, vego, gluten- and dairy-free options. Kids will love the play space and yummy buckwheat waffle with banana, coconut ice-cream and maple syrup. byrongeneralstore.com BAYLEAF

> BAREFOOT BREW ROOM. Rodney Contojohn has been supplying locals with their daily caffeine fix since 2012 at his hole-inthe-wall espresso bar in Lateen Lane.

Under the award-winning Barefoot Roasters label, the Sydney-trained barista roasts specialty blends, single-origin beans and – who knew? – mountain-washed decaf from Mexico. Drink it kerbside with a blueberry bagel or banana bread, minus the queues, or take home a bag of his signature Blend II. barefootroasters.com.au

Kate Holmes

brunch

BAY GR O CER

> THE TOP SHOP. Occupying a pretty hilltop corner on the way to Cape Byron Lighthouse, this former ’50s milk bar does a roaring trade in açaí bowls, smoothies, burgers and rolls (add a side of loaded fries if you’re not feeling virtuous). As well as Single O coffee from Sydney’s Surry Hills, kombucha flows freely on tap. topshopbyronbay.com.au

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BARRIO

L IG H T YEARS

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global flavours DI VIN O

> EL CAMINO CANTINA. There’s Mexican cuisine, and then there’s Tex-Mex – an unashamedly Americanised cuisine that’s big and bold on flavours and fun. Bright murals on the walls accented with Mexican kitsch set the scene for the crowd-pleasing soft shell tacos, nachos topped with chilli con carne, burritos and quesadillas on offer at this family-friendly eatery in Byron’s new mixed use precinct, Mercato.

Wash it all down with machine-made margaritas and Mexican beers. elcaminocantina.com.au

> DI VINO.

WORTH THE DRIVE Venturing beyond Byron?

Detour south to Lennox Head’s casual hatted seaside diner Shelter (shelterlennox.com.au) – its pineapple margarita is sunshine in a glass.

What do four surfer dudes know about Italian? Quite a lot, it seems.

Cooking the kind of food even Nonna would be proud of, authentic enoteca Di Vino has quickly endeared itself to those who know their involtini from their arancini. Take the handmade pappardelle with a rich, unctuous beef ragù, pair it with a dark, brooding Montepulciano, then cap it off with a stroll along the Main Beach foreshore, just around the corner. divinobyron.com

> BARRIO. Well before the Mexican dining wave hit Byron Shire’s shores, Francisco Smoje was wowing diners with firelicked South American food and hearty hospitality at this all-day eatery in the hip, eclectic Habitat precinct. Order from the menu or let the Argentinian chef feed you his signature dishes, which may include blackened eggplant and piri-piri chicken cooked over coals, and an unbelievable chickpea-flour bread. barriobyronbay.com.au

> LIGHT YEARS. Asian cuisine is hard to come by in Byron; truly good Asian is rarer still.

Cue intimate arcade restaurant Light Years, where fresh, flavour-packed dishes are the order of the day (er, night). With its colourful décor, convivial atmosphere and closequarter dining, it’s like an authentic little slice of the continent with a predominantly Vietnamese influence.

Roll on, yum-cha Sundays. lightyearsasiandiner.com.au

> CHUPACABRA. This breezy eatery in Suffolk Park serves modern spins on regionally focused Mexican cuisine, particularly traditional Yucatán dishes. Start with the zucchini-blossom quesadilla, move on to the sashimi-grade ceviche of the day, then finish with the flame-grilled octopus with salsa macha. Or just work your way through the eight-strong taco menu. chupacabra.com.au

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BYR O N BAY

FOLK

> HARVEST NEWRYBAR. Recreating the experience of dining at a hospitable friend’s home – it is housed in an historic Queenslander – the restaurant prides itself on celebrating wild native ingredients in innovative mod-Aus dishes, many of them sourced from around the region by the in-house forager or procured from the on-site organic gardens.

The weekly changing gourmet menu can include dishes such as local fish with native spiced broth, fennel and coastal succulents or kangaroo loin with celeriac remoulade, smoked chocolate, cavallo nero and pickled shitake, but if you can book a spot at one of their guest chef dinners – which has seen the likes of Ben Shewry manning the kitchen in past editions – then prepare to be surprised. During the day, you can get your sustainable eating fix at Harvest Deli, which offers local, artisanal goods – and great coffee. harvestnewrybar.com.au

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farm to table > THE FARM. More of a phenomenon than a restaurant, this hyperlocal “community” is anchored by the crowd-pleasing, regularly changing menu from Three Blue Ducks and The Bread Social bakery (don’t miss the Sunday roast). A 32-hectare property – with produce store, gelateria, market garden, nursery, macadamia orchard and adorable farmyard animals – The Farm also runs tours, workshops and kids’ activities. It doesn’t get more bucolic than this. thefarm.com.au

> FOLK.

D AY-T H R O U G H - N I G H T Whether it be Paleo crumble probiotic yoghurt or buchaspiked booze, The Roadhouse (roadhousebyronbay.com) morphs from café to bar with ease.

The clever vegetarian menu at cult café Folk squeezes every ounce of flavour from organic produce in dishes such as pretty-as-a-picture nourish and granola bowls. Find a shady spot on the deck or in the garden and soak up the chilled vibe. folkbyronbay.com

JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O B ALL I N A.

> NO BONES. The slow-cooked smoky BBQ pulled “pork” burger is a riot of melted cheese, slaw, aioli house BBQ sauce and picked jalapenos and comes with French fries. The calamari is magicked from konjac root and fries are dipped in no-egg garlic aïoli.

Welcome to this new “plant-powered” restaurant. No animals are harmed in the making of its tasty menu. nobonesbyronbay.com.au

> SANTOS ORGANICS. Not-for-profit store Santos Organics, a cornucopia of organic groceries, has a café and juice bar with superfood smoothies, healthy snacks, raw desserts and Fairtrade coffee. Bonus: your dollars help fund community and environmental projects. There are three outlets: on Byron Bay’s main drag, in the nearby industrial estate and Mullumbimby. santosorganics.com.au JE T S TA R.C O M

E S T. 1 9 9 9

www.shopmadeinearth.com MELB OURNE • LOS AANGELES MELBOURNE N G E L E S • S AAN N D IIEGO EGO @madeinearthofficial

Photo Credit: @kayleigh.christina @ashleyspedale

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T HE C U T

WELLINGTON —It may be New Zealand’s craft beer capital but there are plenty of cool bars where you can sip cocktails or sample local wines. Sarah Catherall scopes out the best – and best value – drinking spots—

T HE L IBR ARY

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“YOU CAN SIP YOUR PINT WHILE WATCHING BREWERS HARD AT WORK AT THE TANKS THROUGH A WIND OW.”

> THE LIBRARY. As the name suggests, this bar on popular Courtenay Place is lined with bookshelves groaning with literary classics. The drinks menu runs to about 15 pages and includes everything from single malt whiskies to beer, rare wines and cognacs. A cosy destination on a cold afternoon, you can flick through a well-read tome while sipping a glass of pinot noir from neighbouring Wairarapa. On Wednesdays, the sophisticated bar serves two-for-one cocktails all evening. Next door at Chow – The Library’s sister venue – you’ll be offered the same deal on Wednesdays, plus Asian-inspired food.

D O N ’ T M I S S : The gin and tonic cake – a melt-in-the-mouth lemon sorbet with juniper meringue and citrus salad. thelibrary.co.nz

H AVA N A

> PARROTDOG BAR.

> HAVANA.

One of a number of craft breweries that have popped up in Wellington in recent years, this brewery and bar is inspired by traditional British pubs, with snug booths and a pool table. You can sip your pint while watching brewers hard at work at the tanks through a window. The Parrotdog is one street back from the city’s rolling surf beach, Lyall Bay, so expect to rub shoulders with a surfer or two while you drink your jug poured from one of 15 taps. And on Wednesdays, from 3pm onwards, the jugs are just $20.

D O N ’ T M I S S : Also on Wednesdays there are $20 burger specials that include a half pint served with a burger and fries. parrotdog.co.nz

If you love everything Cuban, this is the place for you. Located in two adjoining former worker’s cottages near funky Cuba Street, Havana has been supporting local DJs and musicians for 13 years, hosting live gigs and music events up to four nights a week. A popular hangout for the city’s hipsters, you can nibble on modern tapas paired with local or international wines, beers or cocktails. From 4pm-6pm, Monday to Thursday, enjoy $9 tap beers and $7 house wines and if you’re here on Friday or Saturday, go loco for $11 Mojitos from 4pm-6pm.

D O N ’ T M I S S : The legendary spicy fried prawns, which have been on the menu since day one. havanabar.co.nz

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When you venture out of the CBD to buzzing, multicultural Newtown, you’ll find this boutique beer garden with South American memorabilia and a Latin-influenced menu. Tuck into scrumptious bar snacks such as pasteis (Brazilian empanadas stuffed with slow-braised beef, chorizo, pork, beans and tomato chutney) with a beer, wine or Latin American cocktail.

From 4pm-6pm, Monday to Thursday, you’ll pay $7 for a pint of local craft beer or a glass of house wine.

D O N ’ T M I S S : The Pisco Sour – a traditional Peruvian cocktail that blends pisco (grape brandy), egg white, lime, sugar syrup and bitters. bebemos.co.nz

> BASQUE. This Courtenay Place bar transports you straight to northern Spain with traditional tapas and drinks, including nine different sangrias, along with 17 craft beers on tap. The menu offers delicious nibbles like haloumi pintxos and loaded patatas bravas topped with cheese sauce, wild pork salami, spring onion and smoky tomato chipotle. On Thursdays enjoy $15 jugs of sangria and on Fridays, jugs of cider or craft beer are $15.

D O N ’ T M I S S : The raspberry sherbet sangria, with pink gin, fizzing sherbet, sparkling rosé and fresh berries. basque.co.nz

BET HEL W O ODS

> BEBEMOS.

> BETHEL WOODS. “T HE O NLY R O OF TOP BAR IN T HE ARE A, I T’S A GRE AT SP OT TO EN JOY O NE OF 18 TAP BEERS A N D CIDERS IN T HE SU N.”

T HE L IBR ARY

While it’s named after the location of the famous Woodstock music festival, somewhat ironically this bar is situated on The Terrace, Wellington’s business and government office strip. The only rooftop bar in the area, it’s a great spot to enjoy one of 18 tap beers and ciders in the sun, while munching on smoked meats. On Thursdays from 4.30pm you can drink two for one bubbles and from 6.30pm-7.30pm on Friday, all house beers, wines and spirits are a thrifty $5.

D O N ’ T M I S S : The Reuben sandwich made with house-smoked pastrami, sauerkraut, pickles and mustard. whg.co.nz/bethel-woods

> LITTLE BEER QUARTER. This hipster haven is tucked away down a laneway in the Edward Street precinct. Bearded bartenders will pour your beer from one of 14 rotating taps or two handpulls, or you can choose from an astounding 100 bottled beers. Snuggle into a retro couch and tuck into hearty fare like Southern fried-chicken burgers. Popular with students, LBQ has great food and drink deals on different days.

D O N ’ T M I S S : The Marco Black pizza with cavolo nero, garlic, chilli, broken sausage and parmesan. Mmmm! littlebeerquarter.co.nz

KENZAN

AUTHENTIC JAPANESE DINING

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LL of FAME HA •

2

EXCELLENCE

018 • 2

CERTIFICATE of

7 01

Kenzan Japanese Collins Place, 45 Collins Street, Melbourne +61 (03) 9654 8933 | kenzan.com.au

2015 • 20 1

Visit Kenzan Japanese restaurant for some of the freshest sushi and sashimi dishes in Melbourne, along with daily changing à la carte dishes and surprising specials. The restaurant has been in its current CBD location for 38 years, and is the most awarded Japanese restaurant in Melbourne. Be welcomed by friendly staff for an authentic Japanese dining experience.

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> W H AT IS I T? A popular dish of stir-fried rice noodles that’s sold on nearly every soi (street) corner, from the bustling metropolis of Bangkok to the provinces and villages populated with 70 million locals.

> W H AT’S I T M A DE FR O M? The original recipe included palm sugar, tamarind, dried prawns, fish sauce, Chinese chives, bean sprouts, peanuts and good thin rice noodles, according to David Thompson, Australian celebrity chef, restaurateur and global ambassador for Thai food. Today, chicken or pork are often added and vegan-friendly versions substitute tofu for prawns.

> T HE L IE AB O U T PA D T H A I When it’s sold in restaurants outside Thailand, the noodles are sometimes bright orange – that’s because sauces or spices, like paprika, have been used instead of tamarind. Authentic Pad Thai is a light reddish-brownish colour.

> T HE TAS TE TES T

PAD THAI

THAIL AND

David Thompson says this dish hits all the flavour notes – sour, sweet, bitter, salty and umami. He says, “A good Pad Thai should be made with prawns and deep-fried shallots and when made well, it is damn delicious.”

> H O W D O YO U E AT I T? It’s ironic that, while Westerners often choose chopsticks, the Thais use a fork and spoon. Hold the fork in your left hand and use it to push food onto the spoon in your right.

But be warned – putting the fork in your mouth or pointing it at people is considered bad table manners.

A N AT O M Y OF A DIS H

—Sweet and spicy with a hint of tangy tamarind, this noodle stir-fry may be Thailand’s national dish but it’s enjoyed enthusiastically all around the world—

Siam was renamed Thailand in 1939 and soon after a competition was run to create a “national dish”. Pad Thai was picked by Prime Minister Phibun, partly because the noodles made it a thrifty (and filling) choice during those tough World War II years.

> W HERE’S I T FR O M AGA IN? It is one of the best-known Thai dishes but, says David Thompson, as the main ingredient is rice noodles, controversially, it originated in... China.

W O R D S_ R A C H EL G R AY

> W H AT’S T HE BACK S T ORY?

STEP U

EXPERIEN CE

EXPLORING T HE RIVER

—Gourmet catering and houseboat accommodation mean bushwalking goes luxe on this Murray River hike, says Alexis Buxton-Collins—

“More petit manseng?” asks Danny Kearney as I bite into a firm, juicy fillet of Murray cod delicately crusted with lemon myrtle panko. He’s been telling me about this meal for two days, and looking down at the cloud of mashed potato surrounded by a moat of rich lemon aspen beurre blanc, I can see why.

I’m not sitting in a fine dining restaurant. In fact, the nearest place to eat is two hours downriver. I’m on a houseboat somewhere north of Renmark in South Australia’s Riverland and Danny is one of my guides on the Murray River Walk.

With two courses still to come, I’m beginning to suspect that this will be the only hike I’ve ever done that makes me put on weight.

The Murray River Walk is one of the Great Walks of Australia, a collection of multi-day luxury hikes that launched in 2012. Since then, the collection has grown from seven to 12 walks covering everywhere from Tasmania’s alpine country to the red centre and even remote Lord Howe Island. And it’s not just Australia – around the world a growing number of operators are offering high-end guided hikes that marry

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“INSTE A D OF A TEN T I C O ME H O ME TO CA N APÉS A N D C OL D DRINKS IN A N

natural splendour with gourmet food and indulgent accommodation.

For hikers, that means it’s possible to experience remote locations in comfort that was once unimaginable.

On the Murray River Walk, all I have to carry is my lunch and drinking water so I’m free to immerse myself in the SA landscape during the day.

And instead of a tent, I come home to canapés and cold drinks in an impressively decked out houseboat with five waterfront bedrooms. Even better, the top deck has a hot tub perfect for soaking my body at the end of each day’s walk.

Just about the only thing missing on this journey along the meandering Murray River is Wi-Fi. Not that I mind as we follow mirror-like oxbow lakes, saunter through stands of majestic red gums and gaze up at imposing ochre cliffs glowing in the light of the setting sun. With a maximum group size of 10, it’s easy to feel as if we have the whole river to ourselves as the guides explain how to identify fabulously coloured ringneck and red-rumped parrots, point out centuries-old canoe trees and untangle the surprisingly complex political history of Australia’s longest standalone river.

O T H ER L U X U RY W AL KS T O T RY

Luxury walks are about more than just creature comforts; well-trained guides who are able to interpret the landscape and ecotourism credentials are also essential parts of the Great Walks selection criteria.

Clearly it’s a formula that works – the Murray River Walk has doubled its participation rate since launching in 2017 and bookings across the Great Walks portfolio rose 20 per cent between 2015 and 2017.

Executive officer Gina Woodward says the majority of walkers are “those who have done the hard yards of self-guided walking over the years and now would like the safety and security of walking with a guide, plus the comforts of a nice bed and great food”. And even for seasoned bushwalkers there’s always something new to see.

At every turn my guides are there to explain the region’s natural and human history or suggest a wine pairing. It’s an experience unlike any conventional hiking trip and I know that next time I go camping I won’t be able to look at my dehydrated dinner in the same way. But for now, a little more petit manseng sounds perfect. murrayriverwalk.com.au

> Bruny Island Long Weekend Clinging to Tasmania’s southeast coast, Bruny Island has an abundance of fresh produce including oysters, beer and cheese.

These five-to-six hour walks double as an excuse to sample the best of it. taswalkingco.com.au/ bruny-island-longweekend > Classic Larapinta Trek In Comfort Snaking through the striking red mountains west of Alice Springs, the 223 kilometre Larapinta Trail is the Central Australian walk.

This luxury version tackles the best bits over six days (think glamping tents with hot showers). greatwalksofaustralia. com.au/our-walks/ larapinta-trail

ROAST M URR AY C O D

M URR AY RIVER WALK

IMPRESSI VELY DECKED O U T H O USEB OAT.”

> Blue Mountains Grand Traverse This three-day walk combines the best short trails in the Blue Mountains. You’ll just need to decide whether to swim in the waterfalls during the day or the pool at the 4.5 star hotel at night. auswalk.com.au/walks/ group-guided/bluemountains-walks

T HE LIGH T TO UCH

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W H AT'S [ UP DOC?]

FOR LUNCH? —It’s no longer just rabbit food!

The humble carrot has been elevated from sidekick to superhero as the most surprising core ingredient of 2019—

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> The ubiquitous orange vegie as a star of haute cuisine? Yes, in the hands of Phil Wood, culinary director of the hatted Pt Leo Restaurant at Victoria’s Mornington Estate, the kitchen staple has become a signature dish: Dutch carrot soufflé, dressed in a brown butter and ginger sauce and accessorised with wild scampi roe.

“Carrots are wonderful, packed full of natural sweetness and incredibly versatile,” Phil says. “They really can do anything.” ptleoestate.com.au

JUST JUICE > Move over OJ. With carrots said to combat cancer, diabetes and high blood pressure, orange you glad we didn’t say orange? Orchard St’s Radiant Roots carrot-based tonic is a liquid lunch made to protect, energise and cleanse. (Buy it at their three Sydney stores or online.) orchardstreet.com.au

WORDS_ DEBORAH GRUNFELD

RARE TARTARE

> No vegetable is discriminated against, even the less perfect looking ones, at Arimia in Margaret River, WA, where the philosophy is organic, seasonal – and delicious. Take this biodynamic carrot tartare with carrot ash emulsion. It’s not always available but when it is, it’s a work of art on a plate. arimia.com.au

T HE C U T

M Y PL ACE

Port Douglas —Actor and comedian Stephen Curry goes troppo for this Queensland coastal wonderland, where toad racing and film festivals meet—

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S TEPHEN C URRY

Skyrocketed to stardom after appearing in the iconic Australian flick The Castle (1997), comedian and actor Stephen Curry returns to Port Douglas for another year as an ambassador for the short film festival Port Shorts (portshorts.com), which showcases some of the best emerging international, local and young talent. With two days of acting, filming and cinematography workshops followed by two days of screening (25-26 October), the festival also offers the opportunity to sample a tropical paradise in this Queensland seaside town.

Here, Stephen lifts the lid on some local secrets...

Port Douglas in a nutshell? > A chilled vibe, spectacular scenery, beautiful humans and a terrible place to leave. Your worst day in Port Douglas is better than a good day anywhere else.

What is the first thing you do when you arrive in Port Douglas? > Smile. Exhale. Get in the shorts.

Put some sunscreen on. Get together with a few local mates and crack open a very, very cold beer.

Your ideal day in Port Douglas? > I’d start at dawn, slowly walk down to the marina, hop on the Dragon Lady fishing charter (dragonlady. com.au), catch a coral trout, have lunch and a beer on the boat. Get back to town and create a big slapup feast of freshly caught seafood.

Pair it with a crisp riesling and damn fine company. That would be my perfect day.

P ORT SH ORTS FIL M FES TIVAL

Must-dos for first time visitors to Port Douglas. > Toad racing at the Iron Bar (ironbarportdouglas.com.au), open mic night on Thursdays at Central Hotel (centralhotelportdouglas. com.au) is always a hoot and Hemingway’s (hemingwaysbrewery. com/port-douglas) down at the marina, where they have their own brewery. Also get a swim as soon as you can but make sure you stay inside the nets.

What is so special about the Port Shorts film festival? > Incredible entertainment, beautiful food and drinks and a movie-going experience unlike any other.

A favourite memory you have of Port Shorts? > It was a perfect night – still, not a cloud in the sky – and just as the second film started, the full moon rose right behind the screen. It is the most magical location for a film festival, with the Coral Sea in front of you and the rolling hills of the Daintree Rainforest on the other side.

Three things you cannot travel without? > My wife and two kids. But when I travel solo: a curious mind, an open heart and noise reduction headphones.

STEPHEN’S DAY ON A PLATE BRE AKFA S T > The Little Larder. You can’t go past their good old-fashioned bacon and eggs with smashed avocado. The best brekkie I’ve ever had! fb.me/thelittlelarder portdouglas LUNCH > Salsa Bar & Grill. This is where Wolf Creek producer Matt Hearn and I came up with the idea for our movie, Cape Tribulation, which we begin filming next year. Try their red claw linguini! salsaportdouglas.com.au DIN NER > Flames of the Forest.

It’s a little place up in the middle of nowhere.

The whole experience is something to behold, the menu changes regularly but you won’t leave a morsel on your plate. flamesoftheforest.com.au

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43Mbps TYPICAL EVENING SPEED $

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1300 747 410

Min Charge includes $109.95 upfront fees + $20 Prepayment. Available in serviced areas. ACCC Report Aug 2019. Typical Evening Download Speed is measured between 7pm and 11pm. Actual speeds may vary. Prepayment automatically topped up if it falls below $10. Visit website for T&Cs.

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—This cute and colourful new season kids’ gear is made for fun in the sun— 1. Sunnylife underwater camera, $29, bluebucket.com.au 2. Mini rib rashie in yellow, $60, zuluandzephyr.com 3. Sunnylife Crabby Snorkeling set, $29.95, leoandbella.com.au 4. Theo Sandal in mustard, $24.99, cottonon.com 5. Kids Bucket Hat in amber brown, $16.99, cottonon.com 6. Here Comes The Sun Tee, $19.95, seedheritage.com. 7. Mini rib boy short in yellow, $40, zuluandzephyr. com 8. Pineapple print beach towel, $19.95, tkmaxx.com.au 9. Cuttlefish K sunglasses in sunshine jellyfish, $19.95, theiconic.com.au 10. Mini towel throwover in red, $70, zuluandzephyr.com.

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Christmas On The Coast

PROUDLY PRESENTED BY CENTRAL COAST COUNCIL

NOV - DEC FREE EVENTS

The annual Lighting of the Christmas Tree at Toukley is guaranteed to deliver festive cheer.

Watch the tree erupt with sparkling lights, enjoy all the entertainment and don’t miss the spectacular ������������������������������������������ The Village Green, Toukley Friday 29 November 2019, 5pm-8.30pm

The beautiful NSW Central Coast is the place to be this festive season.

Grab your family, friends and a picnic blanket for some special evenings across the Coast in the lead up ��������������������������������������������������� ������������������������������������������������������ your heart’s content and enjoy live entertainment, delicious food stalls and craft activities. Santa is also guaranteed to make appearances!

Christmas at Kibble Park ����������������������� festive event of the season. Enjoy the carols, live entertainment, food options, quality time with Santa and the free kids zone. Don’t miss the stunning moment when the Christmas tree lights illuminate ��������������������������� Kibble Park, Gosford Saturday 23 November, 4pm-9pm

A Luminous Christmas at The Entrance is a joyous celebration that runs across 30 evenings in December. Enjoy performances from acoustic artists, local bands and schools, stilt walkers and of course Santa himself! The LED light show is sure to deliver ‘oohs and aahs’.

Waterfront Plaza, The Entrance Saturday 30 November 2019, 5.30-9:30pm Carols in the Park wraps up the festivities on Christmas Eve. Bring your blanket and reindeer ears down to Memorial Park, The Entrance from 6pm-9pm and sing along to all of your favourite Carols and see the LED light show one last time before Santa arrives.

Memorial Park, The Entrance Tuesday 24 December 6pm-9pm

Find out more about Christmas on the Coast events at centralcoast.nsw.gov.au/events Presented by

CentralCoastCouncil

@centralcoastcouncil

@CCoastCouncil

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the insider > JETSTAR NEWS, ENTERTAINMENT AND MAPS

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> Keep up to date with Jetstar news and our StarKids charity.

Plus, go behind the scenes with our staff profiles.

EN T ERTA IN MEN T

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> Let us entertain you with a huge selection of movies, TV shows, podcasts, music videos and much more.

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> Heading from the airport to the city centre? Use our guide to find out the best way to get there by bus, train or taxi.

Jetstar news

BOUNCING BACK FROM DISASTER Earthquake-ravaged families in Indonesia are picking up the pieces of their lives with the help of StarKids and World Vision. By Kervin Mathew.

> Nine-year-old Nadine recounts how a 7.4 magnitude earthquake shook

her community in Sulawesi, an island in Indonesia, in September 2018.

“I was alone inside the house when the earthquake happened. I was eating dinner. I fell and my face was hurt from falling,” she says. Luckily, Nadine and her father, Safriandi, were able to escape but their house and farmland were destroyed.

Without shelter and income – Safriandi’s family was heavily dependent on farming – they took refuge in a camp for displaced people. Moreover, Nadine was missing months of vital education because of school closures.

The situation was bleak but help was nearby.

World Vision’s cash-for-work initiative helps survivors of natural disasters get back on their feet and earn an income. When Safriandi heard about this program, he immediately enrolled. In the following months he worked every day knowing that Nadine would be safe in a child-friendly space designed to help children cope with the psychological effects of a disaster through structured play and learning activities.

“I went to the kids’ area every day. I loved doing arts,” Nadine smiles.

World Vision worked with local governments and partners to clear the debris, level farmland and build shallow wells to help the community resume farming. Safriandi was among 200 farmers provided with support on agricultural practices.

StarKids and World Vision are delivering vital assistance to people like Safriandi and Nadine in many regions affected by natural disasters and conflicts, helping them rebuild their lives with dignity and hope.

YOUR CHANGE CAN HELP MAKE A CHANGE! Consider donating to StarKids using change from your inflight purchases or any loose change at the end of your flight. We accept cash or debit/credit cards. Ask your cabin crew for assistance!

What does a typical day in the life of an airport manager look like? > A typical day consists of leadership meetings in the mornings to prepare for and understand any challenges such as weather and flight cancellations, then working with all departments to ensure we remove obstacles so our frontline teams can provide a safe and enjoyable customer experience.

What is the best thing about your job? > The airport environment has got to be one of the most exciting. Watching aircraft taking off and landing all day and interacting and assisting with people travelling to so many exciting destinations for so many different reasons is such a rewarding job.

Can you share a favourite airport story from your time at Jetstar? > I met an elderly lady who was travelling on an aircraft for the first time to meet her newborn grandson. I was amazed that we really are making air travel more affordable and accessible to everyone. She makes a point of asking for me at check in every year to say hello.

Florence Joy Maluyo

SAFRIANDI AND DAU G H TER NADINE HAVE REASO N TO SMILE AGAIN.

STAFF Q+A. NAME TONY MORRISON POSITION AIRPORT MANAGER, MELBOURNE AND AVALON

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SEE THE LIGHTS Runway lights are a beautiful and welcoming sight from the sky, but what do all those different coloured orbs signify? By Kaitlyn Palmer-Allen.

16 Light it up

3962 THE LENGTH IN METRES OF AUSTRALIA’S LONGEST OPERATIONAL RUNWAY (SYDNEY AIRPORT).

Why does the window shade need to be open until after take off and again on landing?

We know it’s great looking at the magical view out a plane window but also passengers and crew need to be able to see outside, just in case something happens. That way, you can let someone know quickly if anything needs attention.

90 THE AVERAGE NUMBER OF SECONDS IT TAKES TO FLY BETWEEN THE RUNWAYS ON THE WORLD’S SHORTEST SCHEDULED PASSENGER FLIGHT, IN SCOTLAND’S ORKNEY ISLANDS.

HE A DW IND

The first runway lighting was installed back in 1930. Now when you fly into an airport at night, the airfield is filled with bright coloured lights: white lights lining the length of the runway, blue lights lining the length of the taxiway, red lights signalling the end of the runway, green lights indicating the taxiway centreline, and yellow lights showing holding points along a taxiway.

But that’s just the basics – some runways can have as many as 1150 lights!

Heads or tails At 35,000 feet, tailwinds give planes a boost of speed from behind. But did you know headwinds are favourable during landings? When the wind is blowing towards the plane, it reduces the speed on the ground and the distance needed to stop the aircraft.

ASK THE CABIN CREW Your friendly Jetstar flight attendants answer some common questions.

Numbers game Ever wondered why there is numerical notation on the runway? Airports use a system that correlates to compass bearings. For example, Melbourne Airport (Tullamarine) has two intersecting runways.

The main runway is called 16/34, which means it is orientated south 160°/ north 340°. The smaller cross runway, 09/27, is oriented east 90°/west 270°. Why two numbers?

Because most runways can be used in both directions. Some airports have parallel runways. A letter is added: L (left), C (centre) or R (right).

Why do you need to stay seated after we’ve landed safely on the ground?

The plane is still in motion after landing as it needs to make its way to the terminal. Just like a car on the road, there will be braking and turning and staying seated while the plane is making its way to the gate will ensure you stay safe.

SkyBus. Now stopping

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HOBART

AUCKLAND

Still delivering the best service at the lowest prices.

Find out more at skybus.com.au

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T HE IN SIDER

In-flight Entertainment —Take off into a world of entertainment – we’ve rounded up today’s most talked-about movies and TV shows, plenty of kids’ favourites, plus hit music and podcasts to keep you occupied throughout your flight— MORE THAN 60 MOVIES AND 500 TV EPISODES AVAILABLE

ONLY $13 BLOCKBUSTER MOVIES TV COMEDY AND DRAMA KIDS’ FAVOURITES HIT MUSIC PODCASTS

> NEW RELEASE MOVIES.

© 2019 WBEI

Pokémon: Detective Pikachu

Booksmart

Fantasy | PG Harry Goodman goes missing, prompting his son Tim to find out what happened.

Comedy | MA15+ On their graduation, two best friends cram four years of fun into one night.

© 2019 Paramount Pictures

Rocketman Drama | MA15+ About the incredible human story of Elton John’s breakthrough years.

© 2019 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation.

All rights reserved. MARVEL © 2019 MARVEL

© 2019 Disney/Pixar

X-Men: Dark Phoenix

Toy Story 4

Action | M Jean Grey is struck by a cosmic force that transforms her into the Dark Phoenix.

Animation | G Woody and the toys embark on a road trip, reuniting with Bo Peep.

RATINGS

© 2019 Disney 2019 CTMG, Inc. All rights reserved

Spider-Man: Far From Home Action | M Spider-Man must step up to take on new threats.

Aladdin (2019) Family | PG Aladdin is the tale of street rat Aladdin, Princess Jasmine and the Genie.

G General.

PG Parental guidance recommended.

M Recommended for mature audiences.

MA15+ Not suitable for people under 15.

Under 15s must be accompanied by a parent or adult guardian.

PRE-PURCHASE IN-FLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT WHEN YOU BOOK YOUR FLIGHTS AND SAVE!

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© 2019 Universal City Studios Production LLLP. All Rights Reserved.

> NEW RELEASE MOVIES.

© 2018 CTMG, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Men In Black: International Sci-Fi | M The Men in Black tackle their biggest, most global threat to date: a mole.

> KIDS’ FLICKS. © 2019 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.

Stuber Comedy | MA15+ A detective recruits his Uber driver into an unexpected night of adventure.

Fantastic Mr Fox

The Secret Life of Pets 2

Animation | PG Twelve years of quiet domesticity proves too much for Mr Fox’s wild instincts.

Animation | PG Terrier Max is coping with changes. His owner is now married and has a toddler.

Anastasia (1997)

Mr Magorium’s Wonder Emporium

Animation | G A girl heads to Paris, hoping to learn if she is the princess Anastasia.

© 2019 WBEI GODZILLA TM & © Toho Co., Ltd.

Godzilla: King of the Monsters

Family | G Mr Magorium owns the most magical store.

The Iron Giant

Pan

Animation | PG Hogarth finds a huge metal-eating robot with an insatiable curiosity.

Family | PG Peter is kidnapped by pirates and brought to the magical Neverland. © 2008 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved. Dr. Seuss, Horton Hears A Who! and Dr. Seuss Characters TM & © 1954, 2008 Dr. Seuss Enterprises, L.P. All Rights Reserved.

Sci-Fi | M Follows the efforts of the agency Monarch as its members face monsters.

© 2019 Timboon Pty Ltd, Screen Queensland and Screen Australia

Danger Close: The Battle of Long Tan

Dr Seuss’ Horton Hears a Who!

Drama | M Major Harry Smith and his company of 108 soldiers are fighting for their lives.

Animation | G A kindly elephant discovers a civilization living on a speck of dust.

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> GAME ON.

© 2019 WBEI

© 2019 WBEI

© 2017 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation.

All rights reserved.

The Blind Side

Caddyshack

Battle of the Sexes

Sports | PG An oversized teenager is transformed from a homeless street kid to a star athlete.

Comedy | M Danny goes for a scholarship.

But first he has to win the big golf tournament.

Sports | PG The 1973 tennis match between women’s champion Billie Jean King and ex-men’s champion Bobby Riggs.

© 2016 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation.

All rights reserved.

© 1983 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation.

All rights reserved.

© 2019 WBEI

All the Right Moves

Invictus

Sports | PG About Michael “Eddie” Edwards, a British ski-jumper who never stopped believing.

Sports | M A man in Pennsylvania dreams of using football as a way to move up in the world.

Sports | PG Nelson Mandela reaches out to Pienaar, captain of South Africa’s rugby team.

© 2016 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved. MARVEL TM & © 2016 MARVEL & Subs

Eddie the Eagle

> FOREIGN FILMS.

> HEROES & VILLAINS. X-Men: Days of Future Past

X-Men: Apocalypse

Fall In Love at First Kiss

Action | M A war for the survival of the species across two time periods.

Action | M The first mutant, Apocalypse, sees today’s mutants as weak.

Romance | PG Xiangqin develops a crush on Zhishu. Despite being rejected, things change.

> TELEVISION.

© 2016-2017 Fox and its related entities. All rights reserved.

Schitt’s Creek (Season 5)

Bob’s Burgers (Season 7)

Comedy | M We find the Roses at a crossroads between longing for the life they left behind and embracing the town they’ve reluctantly come to call home.

Comedy | M An animated series that follows the daily life of a working class man, Bob, and his ever-quirky family who, together, run the restaurant Bob’s Burgers.

© 2018-2019 American Broadcasting Companies. All rights reserved.

© 2019 WBEI

© 2019 WBEI TM & © DC Comics

© 2019 WBEI

Modern Family (Season 10)

Shrill (Season 1 )

DC’s Legends of Tomorrow (Season 4)

Riverdale (Season 3)

Comedy | PG Stars the PritchettDunphy-Tucker clan, a large and blended family.

Comedy | MA15+ Annie, a young woman, wants to change her life – but not her body.

Drama | M Sara and her team join Ava Sharpe and the Time Bureau to help.

Drama | M It’s Junior year and the gang is forced to think about their future.

Peppa Pig

Emma! (Season 2)

Kids | G Peppa Pig follows the adventures of Peppa, along with her family and friends.

Kids | G Opens up a whole new interactive and inclusive world to the pre-school viewer.

© 2019 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All rights reserved.

© 2019 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All rights reserved.

Gordon Ramsay: Uncharted

Secrets of the Zoo (Season 2)

Lifestyle | M Gordon Ramsay travels the globe in search of culinary inspiration.

Lifestyle | PG Behind-the-scenes access to one of America’s largest and most popular zoos.

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> MUSIC VIDEOS.

> ALBUMS.

Justin Timberlake

Licensed To Ill Beastie Boys

Best of The Lion King Various Artists

The debut studio album by the rock hip hop group.

Moshcam said: “It’s easy to look back at the 1986 version of the trio and label them purposeful geniuses...

But they were just a bunch of Jewish kids trying to make each other laugh.”

This musical collection celebrates the majesty of The Lion King from all the different Lion King-related projects. Included are songs from the original film, its sequels, the Broadway adaptation and the Rhythm of the Pride Lands album.

Madame X (Deluxe) Madonna

Happiness Begins Jonas Brothers

Influenced creatively by living in Lisbon, Portugal, over the past several years, Madonna has created a collection of 15 new songs that celebrate her career-long affair with Latin music and culture, as well as other global influences.

GRAMMY® Awardnominated multi-platinum powerhouse trio the Jonas Brothers are back with their highly anticipated return to music. The album includes the smash single “Sucker”, along with more for fans of Nick, Joe and Kevin.

> PODCASTS & RADIO.

Aussies In Hollywood Adam Shand at Large Kyle & Jackie O Fast Track: Career Conversations with Margie Hartley Chrissie, Sam & Browny The Christian O’Connell Breakfast Show The Next Billion Seconds with Mark Pesce

New Hits Various The freshest new clips from today’s biggest artists featuring Lil Nas X, 5SOS, Guy Sebastian, The Chainsmokers & Bebe Rexha, Calvin Harris, Camila Cabello, Tom Walker & Zara Larsson, Billie Eilish and Shawn Mendes.

00s + 10s Various Millennium hits for you to enjoy featuring Justin Timberlake, George Ezra, Calvin Harris, Boy & Bear, Olly Murs, Justice Crew, P!NK, The Veronicas and Shannon Noll.

90s Various Daryl Braithwaite, Jennifer Lopez, George Michael, Will Smith, Jam & Spoon, Silverchair and Bryan Adams.

80s Various Featuring awesome 80s clips from John Farnham, The Pointer Sisters, Lisa Stansfield, Milli Vanilli, Altered Images, Ray Parker Jr, Whitney Houston and Bucks Fizz.

The Mentor with Mark Bouris The Property Couch Moonman in the Morning Lady Startup ChangeMakers with Amanda Tattersall No Filter: Mia Freedman with John Edward Crappy to Happy with Cass Dunn

The Big Questions with Adam Spencer A Plate To Call Home with Gary Mehigan The Coach with Paul Roos I Don’t Know How She Does It – Girls: Amna Karra-Hassan Hitched: You’re Engaged!

Now What?

SYDNEY. >

TAXI ABOUT $45

>

>

AIRPORT TO CIT Y Touching down in a new city?

Here's how to get to the centre of the action your way.

>

BUS $4.80 Bus Route 380, which takes its name from the Airbus A380 aircraft, departs T1 and T2 and is a limited stops service, terminating at Elizabeth Quay Bus Station in the city centre.

For those travelling from T3 and T4, Route 40 operates daily between the airport and Elizabeth Quay Bus Station.

>

TIP...

The Experience WA smartphone app gives you access to the latest information on local tourist attractions, restaurants, accommodation, transport options and more.

> BUS $5.80 While it does not head into the CBD, Route 400 operates between Bondi Junction in the city’s east and Burwood in the west.

You can catch the bus from outside the T1 International and T3 Domestic terminals. > TIP...

Trains and buses from the airport start around 5am daily and end at midnight.

>

TAXI ABOUT $40

>

TRAIN $18.70 Catching a train into the city is easy and takes about 10 minutes. Grab the T8 Airport and South Line towards City Circle, which stops at Central Station.

ADELAIDE.

PERTH.

“EVERY TRIP I TAKE I STILL APPROACH WITH THE SAME SENSE OF EXCITEMENT I HAD ON MY FIRST [PLANE] TRIP MANY YEARS AGO.” DAVID WENHAM (AUSTRALIAN ACTOR)

MELBOURNE. (TULLAMARINE)

TAXI ABOUT $30

>

BUS $10.40 (DAYTRIP) The JetBus and doubledecker JetExpress airport to city services depart the terminal from Sir Richard Williams Avenue and stop at Currie Street in the city centre. From there, it is just a short walk to Adelaide Oval, Rundle Mall and the city’s main train station on North Terrace.

> TIP...

If you are staying in the city of churches for the weekend, purchase a $25 Metrocard Visitor Pass.

The ticket gives tourists unlimited travel on buses, trains and trams across three consecutive days.

TAXI ABOUT $65

>

BUS $19.50 The Skybus Melbourne City Express departs the airport every 10 minutes and stops at the busy inner city Southern Cross Station. From there, you can catch another bus, train, tram or slip into a cab at the taxi stand located directly outside on Spencer Street.

> TIP...

Explore the CBD onboard the free City Circle tourist tram between 10am and 9pm from Thursday to Saturday and between 10am and 6pm from Sunday to Wednesday.

MELBOURNE. (AVALON)

> TAXI ABOUT $130 TO MELBOURNE, $50 TO GEELONG >

BUS $22 TO MELBOURNE, $18 TO GEELONG The SkyBus Avalon City Express takes about an hour to travel from Avalon Airport to Southern Cross Station in Melbourne CBD. If you are heading to Geelong, the SkyBus Avalon Geelong Express takes about 40 minutes to reach the port town.

> TIP...

Download the handy Avalon Airport smartphone app for information about transport, car hire, parking and flight schedules.

T HE IN SIDER

BRISBANE.

GOLD COAST.

HOBART.

>

>

>

TAXI ABOUT $45

> TRAIN $18.50 The Airtrain is a quick and easy option for travelling from the airport into the city. Trains depart every 15 minutes during peak hour and every 30 minutes during off-peak periods.

The Airtrain takes just 20 minutes to get to Central Station in the city centre.

The service starts at 5am on weekdays and 6am on weekends and the last train departs at 10pm. >

TIP...

Download the BNE app to help you find transport options, maps, where to dine and shop, parking information and more.

TAXI ABOUT $60

> BUS $21 The SkyBus Gold Coast Airport Shuttle operates seven days a week and is a dedicated service for visitors travelling from the airport to the Gold Coast’s most popular tourist spots. The shuttle departs from outside the airport terminal and stops at Burleigh Heads, Broadbeach, Surfers Paradise and Southport.

“TRAVEL MAKES ONE MODEST, YOU SEE WHAT A TINY PLACE YOU OCCUPY IN THE WORLD.” GUSTAVE FLAUBERT (FRENCH NOVELIST)

TAXI ABOUT $50

>

BUS $19.50 The SkyBus Hobart Express service operates daily and departs regularly from the airport. The bus takes about 30 minutes to travel to the city centre, stopping at Brooke street Pier before terminating at 19 Macquarie Street, which is located behind the Grand Chancellor Hotel.

> TIP...

Download the Hobart Cabs 131 008 smartphone app to order and track your taxi from the airport.

For everything to see, eat, sleep, shop and play in Hobart, get The Guides

by Lonely Planet app.

> TIP...

Gold Coast Cabs offer special flat rate fares from the airport to accommodation located in Surfers Paradise ($65) or Broadbeach ($55).

CAIRNS.

BALLINA.

DARWIN.

>

> TAXI ABOUT $100 TO BYRON BAY

>

TAXI ABOUT $30

> BUS $6 The Airport Connect bus departs from Cairns Airport every 30 minutes from 4.30am until the last flight of the day. The bus takes passengers on a 10-minute trip to a bus depot at Sheridan Street in the city, where they can continue their journey on a Translink public bus.

Alternatively, you can book a shuttle into the city for $6 one-way with Backpacker Shuttle Cairns. > TIP...

Remember your hat all year round – even in winter, temperatures can rise to a heavenly 26°C.

“I LIKE TO HAVE A ROUGH GUIDELINE [WHEN TRAVELLING] AND I LOVE MAPS BUT, AT THE SAME TIME, I LOVE SPONTANEITY.” YVONNE STRAHOVSKI (AUSTRALIAN ACTRESS)

123

>

BUS $7.20 The Route 640 bus from Ballina Airport takes close to an hour to make the 37-kilometre journey to the popular beachside town of Byron Bay.

> TIP...

If you prefer to have your transport organised and booked in advance, check out the Ballina Byron Gateway Airport website for information about shuttle bus services.

For those who want to explore and find their own way, all major car rental companies are represented at the airport.

TAXI ABOUT $30

>

BUS PRICE ON BOOKING The Darwin City Airport Shuttle Service is available seven days a week to take you from the airport to your accommodation in the city. The shuttle departs every 20 minutes during peak period and services all major flights to the airport. Online bookings must be made 24 hours in advance.

> TIP...

If you are staying at the Mercure Darwin Airport Resort or Novotel Darwin Airport Hotel, a free shuttle bus service is available for transfer from the terminal to your accommodation.

BALI. >

TOKYO. “LIFE AS A TENNIS PLAYER IS TOUGH IN MANY WAYS BUT WE ARE ALSO VERY PRIVILEGED. THE OPPORTUNITIES WE GET TO SEE THE WORLD AND BE LOOKED AFTER ALONG THE WAY ARE THINGS I AM GRATEFUL FOR.” ASH BARTY (AUSTRALIAN TENNIS PLAYER)

TAXI ABOUT $7 TO KUTA

>

BUS $2 There are a range of bus options to choose from but a popular choice is the bright green Kura-Kura tourist bus, which stops at most major locations across the island. The closest departure point to the airport is outside the Aston Kuta Hotel, which is a brisk 16-minute walk from the terminal.

SINGAPORE.

>

>

> TIP...

Show the name of your hotel to the bus conductor so the driver can tell you where to get off. It is also handy to have a map available on your phone.

TAXI ABOUT $35

> TRAIN $2 The Changi Airport MRT Station (CG2) is located under Terminal 2. Take the train to Tanah Merah station and change to the East West Line heading towards City Hall. > BUS $9 The City Shuttle bus departs every 15 minutes during peak periods and every 30 minutes during off-peak. The trip to the city takes 25 minutes and stops at most major hotels. > TIP...

Save your roaming budget and connect to the free Wi-Fi at Changi Airport.

OSAKA. (KANSAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT)

TAXI ABOUT $250

>

>

TRAIN $37 The Narita Express or N’EX departs every 25 to 40 minutes and takes under an hour to reach Tokyo Station. Buy your ticket at JR EAST Travel Service Centers, which are located inside each of the three airport terminals.

> TIP...

Grab the free shuttle to travel between the airport’s three terminals.

HO CHI MINH CITY.

> BUS $1 The Route 109 bus departs the airport every 15 to 20 minutes between 5.30am and 1am. The bus travels to the city centre (District 1), terminating at 23/9 Park via Pham Ngu Lao backpacker district and the Ben Thanh bus station.

Travel time depends on traffic, but the yellow bus generally takes about 30 minutes to reach the city.

>

> BUS $11 The Keisei group’s Tokyo Shuttle takes 90 minutes to reach the city centre near Tokyo Station.

> TIP...

Knowing how to say a few phrases in the local lingo can go a long way in Bali.

To ask a local to help you call for a taxi, try saying, “Bisa tolong untuk telepon dan order taksi?”

TAXI ABOUT $10

(NARITA AIRPORT)

TAXI ABOUT $250

> TRAIN $28 Ride the Kansai Airport Express Haruka to Tennoji Station. There you can easily catch another train to Osaka or stay on the same train and head directly to Kyoto, which takes about 75 minutes. >

BUS $19 Travel in luxury aboard the Kansai International Airport Limousine Bus, which will take you directly to Osaka or Kyoto (for $31).

> TIP...

Taxis are expensive. Travel by train or bus instead.

FIJI. “I ALWAYS TAKE A BATHING SUIT. EVEN IF I’M GOING TO ALASKA, I’LL TAKE IT. JUST IN CASE I GET SOME FREE TIME IN THE HOTEL POOL.” MARTHA STEWART (AMERICAN TV PERSONALITY)

> TAXI ABOUT $10 TO NADI >

BUS $11 Airport Shuttle Fiji operate a 24-hour shuttle service from Nadi International Airport to most major hotels and resorts in Nadi.

Bookings must be made at least one day prior to arriving at the airport.

> TIP...

It is an offence for taxi drivers to take passengers without having their meter running. If your driver is not using a meter, note the taxi registration number and report it to the police.

The driver may have their license suspended and receive a fine.

A IRP O R T T O CI T Y

AUCKLAND.

QUEENSTOWN.

HONG KONG.

125

HAWAII.

> TAXI ABOUT $60

> TAXI ABOUT $25

> TAXI ABOUT $50

(DANIEL K INOUYE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT)

> BUS $16 The SkyBus departs the airport every 10 minutes and takes approximately 55 minutes to arrive in the centre of Auckland.

Alternatively, Super Shuttle can take you straight to your accommodation for $23 for the first passenger and $9 for every extra passenger travelling in the same group.

> BUS $5 The Orbus departs the airport every 15 minutes and takes approximately 25 minutes to reach the town centre. For $13, you can opt to share an 11-seater Super Shuttle for a convenient, tailored door-to-door journey from Queenstown Airport to your accommodation.

> TRAIN $20

> TAXI ABOUT $61 TO WAIKIKI

> TIP...

The Auckland Transport mobile app makes it easy to move around the city.

Download the app to help you plan and track AT Metro buses, trains and ferry services in real time.

> TIP...

If your accommodation is anywhere in the centre of Queenstown, you can simply rely on foot power to get around – most things in the adventure capital are within easy walking distance.

The Airport Express departs every 10 minutes and takes around 24 minutes to reach Hong Kong Station in the bustling business district.

> BUS $6 The Cityflyer route A21 is ideal for travellers heading into the city and perfect for those who want a preview of Hong Kong from the bus window.

Buses depart every 15-20 minutes from the airport.

> TIP...

Download the MTR Next Train app to keep track of real-time train schedules.

> BUS $4 Routes 19 and 20 depart from the second-level roadway at Honolulu Airport and stop off at downtown Honolulu, Ala Moana Shopping Centre and the hotel-dense Waikiki precinct.

> TIP...

Taxi drivers are referred to as “ambassadors of aloha”.

They are proud of their island and love pointing out landmarks and places of interest. Ask questions – you never know what local secrets you might learn.

W HE RE W E F LY Here’s how to get around our network – have fun planning your next trip.

INTERNATIONAL. Seoul

Shanghai (Pudong) Guiyang

Tho Xuan Vinh Dong Hoi

Da Nang Siem Reap Bangkok Phnom Penh

Penang Medan

Nagoya (Chubu)

Okinawa

Shantou/Jieyang Hong Kong Haikou Sanya

Chiang Mai

Phuket

Osaka (Kansai)

Taipei

Guangzhou Hanoi

Yangon

Tokyo (Narita)

Xuzhou

Zhengzhou

Hawaii (Honolulu)

Clark

Manila

Ho Chi Minh City

Phu Quoc

Kuala Lumpur

Singapore Jakarta Surabaya

Bali (Denpasar) Darwin Fiji (Nadi)

Cairns

Cook Islands (Rarotonga)

Brisbane

Gold Coast

Perth

Sydney Adelaide

Flights are operated by Jetstar Airways and commence 8 December (Gold Coast–Seoul), subject to regulatory approval Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Jetstar Asia Operated by Jetstar Pacific Operated by Jetstar Japan

Auckland

Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Wellington Christchurch Queenstown

T HE IN SIDER

DOMESTIC VIETNAM.

127

DOMESTIC JAPAN.

Hanoi Sapporo

Hai Phong Thanh Hoa Vinh

Shonai

Dong Hoi Nagoya (Chubu)

Hue Da Nang Chu Lai

Matsuyama Osaka Fukuoka Takamatsu Nagasaki Oita Kochi Kumamoto Miyazaki Kagoshima

Quy Nhon

Pleiku

Tokyo (Narita) (Kansai)

Tuy Hoa Buon Ma Thuot Nha Trang Da Lat

Okinawa Miyako (Shimojishima)

Ho Chi Minh City

Phu Quoc

Operated by Jetstar Pacific

Operated by Jetstar Japan

AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND.

Auckland Napier

New Plymouth

Darwin

Nelson Cairns Townsville Hamilton Whitsunday Coast Island Mackay

Queenstown

Sunshine Coast

Ayers Rock (Uluru)

Brisbane

Palmerston North Wellington

Christchurch Dunedin

Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Eastern Australia Airlines for Jetstar Airways

Gold Coast Ballina Byron Newcastle

Perth

Sydney

Adelaide

Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Auckland

Melbourne (Avalon) Wellington

Launceston Hobart

Operated by Jetstar Airways

Christchurch Queenstown

PUZZLES 1

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© Lovatts Puzzles

PICTURE A

PICTURE B

QUIZ 1 New Zealander AJ Hackett is credited with popularising which extreme sport?

2 What is the name of the celebrity behind the recently launched beauty line Haus Laboratories?

3 Python, Ruby and Java are all types of what?

4 On the Australian coat of arms, what type of animal is standing to the right of the shield?

Across 7 Advertising flag (6) 8 Surname of picture A (6) 9 Forest’s canopy area (8) 10 Misplacement (4) 11 Bridge span (4) 12 First name of picture B (7) 13 Nickname for Prime Minister Scott Morrison (5) 15 Pioneering MP who is pictured on Australia’s $50 note, Edith ... (5) 17 Diver’s breathing tube (7) 19 First name of picture C (4) 21 Closeness (8) 23 Portugal’s capital (6) 24 WWI military commander, Sir John ... (6)

22

24

23

CROSSWORD

Down 1 Australian political journo, ... Oakes (6) 2 Beneath the waves (8) 3 Musical threesome (4) 4 Upper limbs (4) 5 Swedish pop group (4) 6 Situation comedy (6) 10 Olympic hurdling champion, Sally ... (7) 14 Formal function (8) 16 Xanadu star, ... Newton-John (6) 18 Reason for being late (6) 20 Land rights champion, Eddie ... (4) 21 Taverns (4) 22 Domesticated (4)

PICTURE C

5 Multi-purpose venue Marvel Stadium is located in which Australian city?

6 What is the Japanese word for the raised ring in which bouts of sumo wrestling are held?

7 Who was the second Australian female tennis player (Evonne Goolagong Cawley was first in 1976) to hold a ranking of world number one?

8 Which planet is closest to the Sun: Mars, Jupiter or Venus?

CROSSWORD AND PUZZLES COMPILED BY LOVATTS

9 How many toes in total does a frog have on its two front legs?

10 Which of New Zealand’s two major islands is bigger in terms of surface area: the North Island or the South Island?

11 Prince of Penzance won the 2015 Melbourne Cup. Who was the jockey?

12 In the music video for Billie Eilish’s song “You Should See Me in a Crown”, what crawls out of the singer’s mouth?

T HE IN SIDER

129

SUDOKU

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13 The atomic number of a chemical element is based on the number of what inside the atom?

14 In Disney’s The Lion King, what type of bird is Zazu?

15 The background of Vietnam’s flag is red but what colour is the five-pointed star on it?

16 According to the International Football Association Board, what is the maximum number of players each team is allowed in a football (soccer) match?

Create words of 4 letters or more using the given letters once only, but always including the middle letter. Do not use proper names or plurals ending with S. See if you can find the 9-letter word using up all letters.

10 good

15 very good

18+ excellent

17 Which bestselling children’s author is also credited with writing the screenplay for the 1967 James Bond film You Only Live Twice (pictured left)?

18 How do you write the year 2019 in Roman numerals?

19 What is the surprising term used as a collective noun for a group of crabs?

20 Traditionally, what country would you be in if you were eating a street food dish called tteokbokki?

SOLUTIONS ON PAGE 134

Find the solutions on page 134.

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Find all the words listed hidden in the grid of letters. They can be found in straight lines up, down, forwards, backwards or even diagonally.

C AR PARK C AR A MEL C ARB O N C AR DB OAR D C AR DIG A N C ARE TAKER C AR G O C AR N AT IO N C AR NI VAL C AR OL C AR O U SEL C ARPEN T ER C ARR I AG E C ART C HIL D C ARE CREDI T C AR D M AC AR O NI S C AR CE V IC AR

Why didn’t the skeleton go trick-or-treating?

Because he had no body to go with.

5

What do crocodiles call small people?

8

Appetisers.

6

What do you call a gardener who has a beard?

9

Hairy Potter.

What kind of candy do whales like?

Blubber gum.

Because they’re all in high school.

I’m falling for you.

What do you get when you cross a robot with a tractor?

SO URCE: FU NKIDS JOKES.C O M

You poke-him-on.

What did one leaf say to the other?

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1 8

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How do you get Pikachu on the bus?

Why don’t you see giraffes in kindy?

6

1

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A transfarmer.

P U ZZLES

131

Can you spot the EIGHT DIFFERENCES between these two images? Circle what’s changed on the image below.

1 DOGS Test your knowledge with these super fun, totally awesome trivia questions.

1 Which breed is a cross between a labrador and a poodle?

2 The Toy Story character Slinky Dog is a cross between what?

3 How many eyelids do dogs have?

2 BOOKS 1 How many storeys is the treehouse in Andy Griffiths’ latest book?

2 What is Alice-Miranda’s extremely long surname?

3 What pet does Neville Longbottom bring to Hogwarts?

3 SCIENCE 1 The hot liquid rock inside a volcano is called?

2 What is a Venus flytrap?

3 Who was the first person to walk on the moon?

4 How many wings does a honey bee have?

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More things to find...

„

Four orange feathers

A soldier on the wrong set

Nine mops

The captain’s log

Five real anchors

An octopus, a shark and a fish

P U ZZLES

Four sailors with tattoos

Sailors saluting the

One dancer wearing

A musician playing

A “grand” piano

ship’s “N” sign

a blue carnation

a double bass

133

134

P U ZZLES

SOLUTIONS CROSSWORD

U L T B A N N E R U D I T R E E T O I R J E S S I C E C O W A N L L I A M I N V A L I S B O N S O A

A A R O B B B M A R P S E S C O A E R S N O R K O E N T I M A O A M O N A E Y

S I E T C H O M O

L H N O

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A N R

Anti, Cant, Scan, Snit, Tint, Actin, Antic, Faint, Saint, Satin, Scant, Stain, Stint, Taint, Titan, Attain, Intact, Tanist, Fanatic, Fantast, Satanic.

9-letter word: FANTASTIC

QUIZ 11 Michelle Payne 12 A spider 13 Protons 14 Red-billed hornbill 15 Yellow 16 11 17 Roald Dahl 18 MMXIX 19 Cast 20 South Korea

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© Lovatts Puzzles

1 Bungee jumping 2 Lady Gaga 3 Programming languages 4 Emu 5 Melbourne 6 Dohyo 7 Ash Barty 8 Venus 9 Eight 10 South Island

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1 The number one on Thomas is missing.

2 The pink dots on the right are white.

3 The light on the right is missing.

4 The bird on the left is missing.

5 The yellow frame on Thomas’s window is red.

6 One of the bolts on the second engine is missing.

SUDOKU 8

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7 The green ring on the right is yellow.

8 One of the petals on the right is missing.

Dogs

Books

Science

1 Labradoodle 1 117

1 Magma

2 A dachshund 2 Highton-Smith-

2 A carnivorous

and a slinky

Kennington-Jones plant

3 Three

3 A toad

3 Neil Armstrong

called Trevor

4 Four

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136

T HE IN SIDER

HIGHER. BIGGER. FASTER. LONGER. > Rising like a jagged shark’s tooth from the Tasman Sea, about 23 kilometres south-east of Lord Howe Island, a rocky giant is all that remains of a shield volcano and caldera that formed seven million years ago. While Ball’s Pyramid is only a small part of what was once a much larger rainforest-covered island, its towering spire soars some 550 metres high, making it the tallest ocean sea stack in the world.

Named after Lieutenant Henry Lidgbird Ball, who commanded HMS Supply on its 1788 voyage to Lord Howe Island, Ball’s Pyramid has long being a place of intrigue. It has a history of rock climbing, with many attempting to scale the summit, is a breeding place for thousands of seabirds and is home to one of the rarest insects on earth (this is the only place in the world you’ll find it in the wild).

The Lord Howe Island phasmid (Dryococelus australis), a large stick insect, became extinct on Lord Howe Island in around 1930 after the introduction of rats. However, rock climbers scaling nearby Ball’s Pyramid in 1964 photographed a dead specimen and in 2001 scientists discovered live phasmids on the rock. As there’s little to suggest Ball’s Pyramid and Lord Howe Island were ever linked above water, it’s not clear how the flightless insect made its way to this remote outcrop.

Conservation efforts have since seen rock climbing banned on the monolith and Melbourne Zoo is currently running a captive breeding program for the insects. The zoo holds about 500 phasmids and hopes one day to reintroduce them back into the wild on Lord Howe Island.

NAME B A L L’ S P Y R A M I D LOCATIO N 23KM S/E OF LORD HOWE ISLAND HEIGHT 550 METRES LENGTH 1100 METRES WIDTH 300 METRES

W O R D S _ K A I T LY N PA L M E R-A L L E N

15CM

EACH ISSUE WE FOCUS ON A PL ACE PU NCHING ABOVE ITS WEIG H T

LORD HOWE ISLAND PHASMID (D R Y O C O C E L U S A U S T R A L I S) AKA ONE OF THE RAREST INSECTS IN THE WORLD

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