Jetstar Australia Magazine — OCT 2018 by Jetstar Magazine

OCT 2018

MAGAZINE

F R EE T O TA K E H O M E

FREE 16 amazing beach holidays where anything is possible

SPIR I T

FIJI

ULURU

PONSONBY

HO CHI MINH CITY

TA S M A N I A

M I YA Z A K I

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OCT 2018

CONTENTS

the traveller W HERE T O G O N E X T

the checklist ALL T HE T R AVEL IN T EL YO U NEED N O W

0 1 4 T R AV E L T R E N D S: F I J I

Want to escape the crowds? Hide in luxury on these idyllic islands.

0 1 6 T E C H

Smart and stylish gadgets that will change the way you travel.

0 1 8 T R AV EL H AC K: K ID S Fun toys, books and games to entertain your kids in transit.

037 HO CHI MINH CITY A foodie, an expat and a family explore the Vietnamese city.

0 2 0 P O S T C A R D F R O M ... The places that put Ponsonby, Auckland, on the map.

0 2 2 T R AV E L T R E N D S:

BUBBLE HOTELS Sleep under the stars inside these translucent domed tents.

024 THE CHALLENGE What can you do in Melbourne with $50? Our writer finds out.

0 2 6 T W O S I D E S O F... Man-made structures contrast natural wonders in Singapore.

0 2 8 T R A V E L H A C K : JE T L AG Tips from a sleep scientist on how to beat jet lag.

0 3 0 7 M Y T H S A B O U T... We set the record straight on Australia’s iconic rock, Uluru.

033 CALENDAR Parachuting, sculptures and beer – what not to miss this month.

046 COOK ISLANDS A former Rarotonga local revisits his childhood home.

C O N T EN T S

054 DARWIN he best (and most T surprising) ways to spend 48 hours in this capital city.

the cut T H E BES T OF W H ERE T O E AT, D R IN K A N D PL AY

0 9 0 E A T + D R I N K : S Y D N E Y

Where to savour brunch, lunch and dinner in the harbour city.

0 9 8 M Y P L A C E: B A L I Life in Canggu through the eyes of a local yoga teacher.

1 0 0 H A P P Y H O U R: T O K Y O

Beer, sake, cocktails – you can have it all when it’s happy hour.

104 STREET STYLE The best looks from the streets of Hong Kong’s PoHo district.

107 FASHION 060

068

077

M I YA Z A K I

TA S M A NI A

UBUD

Discover the laid-back surf culture making waves in Japan.

There’s fun to be had for everyone chasing the elusive Southern Lights.

We explore the historic, cool and quirky corners of the Balinese city.

The style essentials to pack for your next weekend escape.

108 EXPERIENCE Dine, dance and explore Melbourne in the dark.

1 1 1 A N AT O M Y OF A DIS H

A poke purist and a rebel chef on how to eat this Hawaiian dish.

114 FOOD TRENDS

The latest and greatest food crazes. Broccolatte, anyone?

the insider JE T S TA R N E W S, M AP S A N D EN T ER TA IN MEN T

080 AUSTRALIA Get ready for fun in the sun with 16 of the best Aussie beach holidays.

1 1 8 JE T S TA R N E W S 1 2 3 EN T ER TA IN M EN T 132 AIRPORT TO CITY 1 3 6 W H E R E W E FLY 138 GAMES + PUZZLES 1 4 4 H I G H E R , BI G G E R ,

F A S T E R , LO N G E R

Cover photography by Dee Shepherd. Clothes by Children Of The Tribe.

MAGAZINE E DITOR I A L .

We want you to know that at Jetstar our writers are not armchair travellers. Any assistance we do accept from the travel industry to produce our stories does not compromise the integrity of the coverage.

EDITOR Jacqueline Lunn DEPUTY EDITOR Sudeshna Ghosh CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jon Gregory DESIGNER Lisa Emmanuel CHIEF SUBEDITOR Nancy Merlo SUBEDITOR Kaitlyn Palmer-Allen PHOTOGRAPHIC EDITOR Amy Heycock

EDITORIAL INQUIRIES EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Rachel Gray Suite 58, 26-32 Pirrama Road, Pyrmont, NSW 2009 P (02) 8114 8944 E rachel.gray@mediumrarecontent.com

CONTRIBUTORS.

TRACEY WITHERS Sydney-based writer Tracey Withers has been a journalist for 15 years and a travel junkie her whole life. She loved chasing the Southern Lights around Tasmania (page 68). “It’s one of the best adventures I’ve ever had.”

MANAGING EDITOR, JETSTAR Simon Tsang

A DVERT I S I N G . VIC & QLD ADVERTISING DIRECTOR

NATIONAL ADVERTISING MANAGER

Chris Joy | (03) 9292 3207

Amanda Atkinson | (02) 8114 8920

VIC AD MANAGER/CLIENT SERVICE

NSW SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER

Rohan Green | (03) 9292 1817

Andre Hammond-Parker | (02) 8114 7626

JETSTAR COMMERCIAL

NSW ACCOUNT MANAGER

INTEGRATION SPECIALIST

Stephanie Leon | (02) 8114 8936

Simone Elliott | 0412 115 097

NZ BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER

VIC SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER

Stuart Tovey | +64 21 711 606

Tim Maidment | (03) 9292 3218

JETSTAR ADVERTISING

VIC ACCOUNT MANAGER

SALES COORDINATOR

Angeline Gleeson | (03) 9292 2781

Emily Whelan | (02) 8114 8908

QLD & NT ACCOUNT MANAGER

VIC ADVERTISING COORDINATOR

Kasia Brzezicka | 0447 383 072

Peggy Ford | (03) 9292 3222

M EDIUM R A R E C O N T E N T A G E N C Y . MANAGING DIRECTOR Gerard Reynolds EXECUTIVE GENERAL MANAGER Sally Wright CHIEF CONTENT OFFICER Margaret Merten DIGITAL STRATEGY DIRECTOR Karla Courtney SOCIAL STRATEGY DIRECTOR Scott Drummond CREATIVE SERVICES EDITOR Georgia Booth CREATIVE SERVICES ART DIRECTOR Philippa Moffitt FINANCE MANAGER Paul Martin

Jetstar magazine is published monthly and is complimentary to domestic and international passengers. Published for Jetstar by Medium Rare Content Agency (ABN 83 169 879 921), Suite 58/26-32 Pirrama Road, Pyrmont, NSW 2009. ©2018. All rights reserved. Printed by PMP Limited. Paper fibre is from sustainably managed forests and controlled sources. No responsibility is accepted for unsolicited material. Articles express the opinions of the authors and not necessarily those of Jetstar or Medium Rare Content Agency. For a copy of Medium Rare Content Agency’s Privacy Policy, please visit mediumrarecontent.com. ISSN 1443-2013.

For flight reservations Australia 131 538 New Zealand 0800 800 995 Japan +800 4008 3900 (place your telephone carrier’s access code before this number) Thailand +66 2267 5125 USA 1866 397 8170 Vietnam +84 8910 5375 Website jetstar.com For hotel bookings and holiday packages To contact Jetstar Holidays, call 1300 360 520 in Australia. In New Zealand, call 0800 800 995 and follow the prompts, or visit jetstar.com/holidays or jetstar.com/hotels

CRAIG TANSLEY Veteran travel writer Craig Tansley may spend at least a quarter of the year on the road but Rarotonga in the Cook Islands, where he grew up, is still “the best place he’s ever been”. He revisits “home” in this issue (page 46).

DILVIN YASA A writer and mother of two, Dilvin Yasa has been working in magazines for the past 20 years and spends her time tapping out travel features such as 7 Myths About Uluru (page 30). According to Dilvin, “Uluru should be on every Australian’s bucket list”.

CEO’S LE T T ER

Going the extra mile > Thanks for choosing Jetstar and welcome to our new-look magazine. Recently I heard a story that sums up perfectly why I’m so proud to work as part of the Jetstar team. We received a post on our Jetstar Facebook page from a woman searching for a man in “a black Jetstar polo”, who she had seen helping another woman on a tram in Melbourne. The woman on the tram appeared to be a bit disorientated and was carrying a lot of luggage. The man in the Jetstar polo asked the woman on the tram if she was OK, provided her with some money, a bottle of water and helped her with directions. He then walked with her to the train station, carrying her luggage. He stayed with her until her train arrived and asked the train driver to take care of her, advising him of the woman’s destination. It didn’t take long for us to discover that the man in the black Jetstar polo was Dan Cooper – one of our team members who works in the Jetstar Operational Control Centre. DAN C O OPER

AS A N A IRL INE, I K N O W W E ARE HELPIN G T O C H A N GE PEOPLE’S L I VES BY M AK IN G T R AVEL M ORE AFF ORDABLE. As a customer service officer, Dan helps customers who need to change their flights following significant disruptions across our network, such as the severe typhoon that closed Osaka (Kansai) Airport last month. Hearing the story about how Dan took time out of his day, on his way home, to help a stranger in need was very heartwarming. It made me feel proud about the values our team members show every day and how they are also a reflection of the ongoing commitment we all have to our customers. As an airline, I know we are helping to change people’s lives by making travel more affordable. But I also know that it’s the small gestures by our ground and operations teams, cabin crew, customer service teams, pilots – indeed all our people – which can sometimes make the biggest impact of all. G ARE T H E VA N S CEO, JE T S TA R G R O U P

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JE T S TAR S O CI AL

LIKE. FOLLOW. CLICK. SHARE. Get social with us and join the conversation online.

< SAND SURFING > STANDING TALL AT 15 METRES, WAVE ROCK, LOCATED SOUTH-EAST OF PERTH IN WA, DWARFS ANYONE

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jetstar.com THE ONLINE HUB FOR ALL THE TRAVEL INSPO AND INTEL YOU NEED TO EXPLORE THE WORLD YOUR WAY.

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the checklist > ALL THE TRAVEL INTEL YOU NEED NOW

SIN G AP O RE PA G E

026 FIJI ISL A N D S

PA G E

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> “Bula!” is a Fijian greeting meaning “Hello”. Pronounced boo-lah, it’s the one word you will hear everywhere you go.

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> Hip inner suburb Ponsonby hosts the city’s annual pride parade, celebrating love and unity with glitter and glam.

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PA G E

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> Melbourne was briefly named Batmania for one of its founding fathers, John Batman, before being renamed in 1837.

—For pristine white-sand beaches, seafood feasts and deep-sea adventures that bring you back to life, head to these secluded Fijian islands. Just don’t tell a soul—

TR AVEL TREN D S

Hush-hush...

FIJI’S SECRET ISLANDS

YASAWA ISLANDS.

Enter an exotic world where locals perform the meke (traditional Fijian dance) as the rhythmic beating of a lali (drum) echoes across the sea. Made up of 20 volcanic isles, the Yasawas are dotted over an 80-kilometre stretch and are popular with backpackers – but they haven’t always been accessible to tourists. Until the 1980s, the islands were so undeveloped that cruise ships in the region had nowhere for their weary sea-legged passengers to disembark. Today, with the approval of village elders, the archipelago – situated an easy 25-minute flight from Nadi International Airport – has flourished into a tourist haven. From Yasawa Island Resort and Spa (yasawa.com), you can head out to explore brilliant coral reefs and hike through limestone caves in the belly of Fiji’s inactive volcanoes. If you fancy a more thrilling adventure, try diving with manta rays off the coast of Barefoot Manta Island resort (barefootmantafiji.com) to the south, where these majestic creatures can be spotted from May to October.

NUMBER OF FIJI ISLANDS 330 INHABITED ISLANDS ABOUT 110 LARGEST ISLAND VITI LEVU SECOND LARGEST VANUA LEVU THIRD LARGEST TAVEUNI POPULATION OVER 884,000

SWIMMING NEAR MANA ISL AND

D OLPHIN ISL A ND.

For those wanting privacy and luxury, why not rent an entire island to yourself? A 20-minute boat ride from the tip of Viti Levu will take you to the 14-acre Dolphin Island (dolphinislandfiji.com), which hosts a maximum of eight people at a time. The private island is the perfect location to don those oversized rockstar sunnies, crank up the beats and lounge poolside. If you’re happy to share your slice of paradise with a few friends, the island offers a three-night House Parties package, including meals and sunset cocktails. Relaxing family holiday more your style? There’s also a four-night Family Time option, where kids can do fun activities such as cooking classes, snorkelling or visiting a Fijian village to immerse themselves in local culture.

T H E C H ECKL IS T TAVARUA ISL AND IS O NE OF T HE MAMAN UCAS

015

VA N UA BAL AV U.

Retreat into a world barely touched by tourism and take your time exploring the verdant 53-square kilometre Vanua Balavu – one of the 57 small islands that make up Fiji’s Lau archipelago. Wander among the 1200 or so locals to soak up the island’s rich culture and history, which includes tales of Vanua Balavu’s most renowned resident – the legendary Tongan prince and Fijian chief Ma’afu, who conquered parts of Fiji before his death in 1881. Sleeping options are limited on the island but Moana’s Guesthouse is licensed to accommodate tourists. Local-style bures (thatched cottages) sit metres from Lomaloma Bay’s beach, where you can swim, surf or recline in a hammock under the sway of a coconut tree.

L O C AL T IP Traditionally used in rituals, kava is a mildly narcotic drink that can make your mouth go numb.

T URTLE ISL A ND.

LO CAL WIL DL IFE

If a romantic getaway is on the cards, head to Turtle Island (turtlefiji.com), where only 14 couples at a time can enjoy the pristine white-sand beaches. A 30-minute seaplane flight north-west from Nadi International Airport will bring you directly to this 500-acre paradise. Staying in one of 14 bures – which open onto a private beach – guests can fill their days lazing by turquoise waters, snorkelling or saddling up for a sunset horse ride. For those planning on tying the knot, you can frock up in traditional dress, participate in a kava ceremony (kava is a drink made from the ground root of a pepper plant) and be spoilt with an exotic feast as part of the resort’s wedding package.

FIL M S TAR. Tom Hanks filmed scenes for the 2000 movie Cast Away on Monuriki Island in the Mamanuca Islands.

M A M A N U CA ISL A NDS.

We’re going to call the Mamanuca Islands an open secret, hiding just a short boat or seaplane journey from Viti Levu. There are holiday options to suit everyone, from luxury lovers to budget travellers, scattered across this spectacular cluster of 20 isles. Malolo (maloloisland.com) is the largest of the Mamanucas. According to Fijian folklore, the gods created the sandy nirvana as a place for the sun to rest after a day of wandering, so it’s no coincidence that it’s the perfect place to kick back and relax. You can take your pick of accommodation on the Mamanucas – if you’re on a budget, there’s Serenity Island Resort (serenityisland resortfiji.com), while fun for the whole family can be had at kid-friendly Treasure Island Resort (treasureisland-fiji.com). For an adults-only retreat, head to the Tokoriki Island Resort (tokoriki.com).

W O R D S_ R A C H EL G R AY

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TEC H N OL O GY

Have tech, will travel —Your smartphone is just the beginning. Rosalyn Page discovers very clever gadgets that will transform your next trip—

> AAXA P2-A SMART PICO PROJECTOR. ABOUT $281

HOME CINEMA ON THE ROAD B AT T E R Y R U N T I M E 150 MINU TES WEIG H T 8.8 O Z MA X RESOLU T IO N 1920 X 1080 M A X BRIG H T NESS

Take your movie nights on the road – or set up a cinema in your hotel room – with a portable travel projector. The P2-A lets you wirelessly stream Netflix or YouTube videos from your phone or play video files directly from a USB stick. The tiny device projects images up to 100-inches (diagonal), comes with a mini-tripod and has a built-in speaker. Want extra boom? Easily pair it with a bluetooth speaker. aaxatech.com

130 LUMENS A U DI O O U T P U T 1.5-W AT T S P E A K E R

58MM

71 M M

> AIRBOLT.

$108

Worried about your bag? Don’t be. The AirBolt smart luggage lock connects to a smartphone app so you always have control. From the app, check your bag’s last location, unlock via bluetooth and be alerted if you’re separated from your luggage. Not only is AirBolt water-resistant, it has an airline-approved flight mode, too. theairbolt.com

> UNIDEN UPP80S PORTABLE SOLAR POWER BANK. $49.95 At some point every traveller gets caught with a dead battery but this solar power bank will have you back in action in no time. With a built-in solar panel, you can catch some rays, revive your devices and top up your power bank simultaneously. uniden.com.au

GET C O N NEC T ED.

> JBL CLIP 3. $79.95

Despite its small size, the JBL Clip 3 bluetooth speaker is packed with big features. With 10 hours of playback, an IPX7 waterproof rating, durable casing, an integrated carabiner and a noise-cancelling speaker for crystal clear smartphone calls, the Clip 3 is perfect for all your travel adventures. Whatever colour you pick – there are five – it’ll make showers after a long day of sightseeing feel like a dance party in the rain. jbl.com.au

Everything you need to set up your home office in your hotel room.

> TP-LINK AC750 WIRELESS TRAVEL ROUTER. $49 Poor Wi-Fi can take any trip from fabulous to frustrating. The TP-Link AC750 is a dualband travel router that connects to a wireless network to create a private Wi-Fi hotspot. Powered by a mini USB cable, you simply connect the device to a wired network or plug in a USB drive – and hey presto! It’s like having a magician in your pocket. tp-link.com

> TRAVELSIM. $25 (STARTER PACK)

> STOW UNIVERSAL TECH CASE.

ABOUT $565

Add a little protective luxury to your precious travel devices with the Stow Universal Tech Case. Expert craftsmanship and quality leather combine in a stylish, robust holder roomy enough to store just about everything. Use the stretch-straps to secure cables or chargers and slide your tablet and passport into the slip pockets for safekeeping. Top it off with a power bank for portable charging. stowlondon.co.uk

Don’t fancy a huge global roaming bill after your trip? Grab a TravelSIM. The prepaid international SIM card means international travellers can make calls and browse online at very cheap rates. As a bonus, you can call other TravelSIM users for free! It’s easy to top up your balance in the app and 24/7 help is available if you have trouble connecting while you’re away. travelsim.net.au

> DISKASHUR2. > ILI TRANSLATOR. ABOUT $268

If you don’t want to rely on translator apps (cue awkwardly thrusting your phone into the faces of strangers as you muddle through an unfamiliar language), a portable translator is the tech for you. Offering instant offline translation, Ili translates from English to Spanish, Japanese or Mandarin in 0.2 seconds and it can speak on your behalf. Thank you. Xiè Xiè. Gracias. iamili.com

$379 (1TB)

A secure portable drive will give you peace of mind if you’re travelling with important files. DiskAshur2 is an encrypted hard drive with an inbuilt keypad that uses a PIN to protect access to the drive if it’s lost or stolen. It has fast USB transfer speeds, is available in four colours and with sizes up to 5TB. Plus, you don’t have to be an international spy to use it. securedrive.com.au

01 8

HEXBUG SCAR

T HE C HECKL IS T

T R AVEL H ACK

ENTERTAIN YOUR KIDS [THE TOP 7 TOYS UNDER $20]

—Put a stop to the two scariest words in the world for parents – “I’m bored” – with these clever little novelties— # 1 S T ICKER B O OKS.

> Love and marriage, avocado and toast, kids and stickers – some things in life simply belong together. Unleash your child’s imagination with sticker sheets, crayons and a new scrapbook. For a scented treat, try the Melissa and Doug ‘Floral Fairies’ Scratch and Sniff Sticker Pad ($9.99, onlinetoys. com.au) or take your pick from a range of sticker and activity packs (from $4, bigw.com.au).

UNO

# 2 FIN GER P UPPE TS.

> Nurture the next generation of master storytellers with a box set of puppet characters from the Wizard of Oz, Three Little Pigs or Little Red Riding Hood (from about $17.95 a set, creativeplaypuppets.com.au). Kids can even make up their own magical stories with assorted animal hand puppets including fluffy unicorns.

LEGO

# 3 U N O CARDS.

W O R D S_ R A C H EL G R AY

> Mathematically-minded whiz kids will have hours of fun with a card game of the number-crunching Uno – the brainchild of Merle Robbins. The US father invented the popular game in 1971 to settle a long-running dispute with his son over the rules of a similar game called Crazy Eights ($10, available at most Australian supermarkets and department stores).

# 4 HEXB U G.

> What kid wouldn’t love watching a tiny robotic insect scampering around under their parents’ feet while waiting to head out of a hotel room? Simply switch it on and see where the six-legged creatures go (from $19.95 for the Hexbug Scarab Beetle, shop. australiangeographic.com.au).

# 5 FL IP B O OKS.

> The Spot the Dog and Hairy Maclary book series and even Look Inside an Airport are among the traditional educational favourites that can still be found at stores within the departures terminal if you’re caught empty-handed as you jet off (around $15, available at selected newsagencies and online bookstores).

# 6 LEG O.

> You don’t need a 6020-piece Hogwarts Castle set to keep kids entertained on a plane. Instead, check out Aragog’s Lair, a play set that’s perfect for the tray table, complete with a mini Harry Potter and his mate Ron Weasley ($19, kmart.com.au). Or, pack a few lego blocks in a tupperware container for a fun on-the-go activity that will strengthen growing children’s hand-eye coordination, maths skills, dexterity and colour recognition.

#7 TA M AG OTC HI.

> An honourable mention goes to the keychain-sized virtual pet that has kept millions of kids – and adults – hooked on feeding and caring for a little e-critter. OK, so maths might not be our strong suit – this one is a little over budget (maybe we should have played more card games as kids!). The attention-seeking Tamagotchi rolls in at $24.95 (shop. australiangeographic.com.au) but we reckon it’s worth it.

U Ta fo se c ke rb o a ig de ph ge J ot r s ET o. av OC in T gs .

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—Forget Rome, all roads RI CH MO ND – in Auckland, anyway – lead to Ponsonby. This eclectic inner-city neighbourhood is so jam-packed with cool eateries, galleries and boutiques, you’ll never want to leave—

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6. THE OPEN BOOK. Get lost in the shelves of this quirky second-hand bookshop. The subscription service is great, while their handmade notebooks make for an ideal souvenir. theopenbook.co.nz

7. PONSONBY CENTRAL. BIRD O N A WIRE

1. SMYTH GALLERIES. This gallery showcases modern art from emerging and established artists, plus French vintage posters, lithographs and photos. Come for the art – stay for the reading room. smythgalleries.co.nz

2. SIDART RESTAURANT. Acclaimed chef Sid Sahrawat serves up contemporary Indian cuisine using sustainable, local ingredients at his fine-dining restaurant. Expect to be wowed. sidart.co.nz

3. THE CAV. It may date back to the mid-1860s but this friendly gastropub is keeping with the times, oozing urban cool with its modern menu – tuna poke or pork katsu burger, anyone? – wide range of craft brews and after-hours party vibes. thecav.co.nz

4. MILLY'S KITCHEN. Gourmands will be in heaven at this well-loved kitchenware store, which stocks a staggering range of products, including top international brands such as Mauviel and Rosenthal. millyskitchen.co.nz

SIDART RESTAUR AN T

5. PONSONBY MANOR. A converted former boarding school, this historic guesthouse offers a quiet, comfortable home-away-from-home enhanced with touches of thoughtful luxury. ponsonbymanor.co.nz

WIXII

Explore a collective of eateries showcasing global flavours – like Tokyo Club, Miss Istanbul and Bird on a Wire – plus weekly pop-up shops featuring local designers such as Wixii. Stay for a drink at cool bar Bedford Soda and Liquor. Cheers! ponsonbycentral.co.nz

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BUBBLE HOTELS T R AVEL T REN D S

—Sleeping in a futuristic translucent dome is the new glamping. Whether you’re a nature-lover, stargazer or closet exhibitionist, you’ll love spending the night under moonlight—

BUBBLE TEN T AUSTR AL IA

> ULUWATU, BALI.

> NSW, AUSTRALIA. Fancy sleeping under the night sky free from mozzies and freezing temperatures? Bubbletent Australia lets you do just that. The translucent bubble tents, the first in the country, are located on a 1000-acre farm about 200 kilometres north-west of Sydney. The cosy, inflatable accommodation overlooks the world’s second largest canyon – the stunning Capertee Valley, about a 45-minute drive from Mudgee. You can choose from one of three tents, aptly named after constellations Leo, Cancer and Virgo. Each tent comes with modcons such as Wi-Fi, a USB station, fridge and freezer, torches and extra blankets – you’ll need them as there’s no heating inside. Bottled water is supplied but you’ll have to pack your own food to cook on the double gas burners provided. There is also a toilet and shower, housed in separate (non-translucent) domes nearby. But don’t worry, your privacy is assured – the only other visitors on your doorstep will be sheep. Book ahead. Detailed directions to your tent are only revealed two weeks before you arrive. bubbletentaustralia.com

MINGLE FARM

> YUEN LONG, HONG KONG. It’s all about enjoying the great outdoors at Mingle Farm, a glamping facility 45 minutes from Hong Kong’s city centre. For a night out under the stars, you can sleep in one of the farm’s fully or semi-transparent inflatable bubble tents known as Aecospheres. For something even quirkier, you can spend the night in a bouncy castle or mushroom-shaped inflatable house. minglefarm.com

W O R D S_ R A C H EL G R AY

BUBBLE H OTEL BAL I

There are four secluded bubble tents at Bubble Hotel Bali, located a short stroll from Nyang Nyang Beach in Bali’s south, about an hour’s drive from Denpasar. The exact location is revealed after booking but guests should bring their walking shoes as there’s a 30-minute cliff trail to reach the tents (any big bags you might have can be left with reception – you just take what you need for the night). Each bubble comes with its own toilet and shower, plus you can buy extras such as a bonfire, meals and even a photo shoot. bubblehotelbali.com

T HE C H ALLEN GE

How’d I get that $50? Who knows. Point is, I’ve got fifty bucks to spend and I’m in Melbourne...

Brunetti $ 4.10

> First things first. Coffee. Absolute essential. My favourite spot for catching up with somebody who isn’t from Melbourne is Brunetti. It’s something of an institution. Their flagship store on Flinders Lane is massive, without losing intimacy, and the authentic Italian-style coffee is out of this world. brunetti.com.au

K IRK’S WINE BAR

Queen Victoria Market $11.0 0

> Two words: Free. Samples. The Queen Vic Market is prime territory for the shameless among us to go nuts on an almost endless supply of incredible food products – from cured meats, cheeses and jams to fruit and veg. Eventually you’re going to want to nibble something that doesn’t have a toothpick sticking out of it, so head over to the friendly ladies at the Borek Shop and grab a $5 slice of heaven. These stuffed filo pastries are best washed down with a fresh fruit smoothie from Market Juice. qvm.com.au

Royal Botanic Gardens Victoria FREE

> Ain’t nothing like a stroll in the Botanic Gardens I always say. Yep. Always say that. It’s kind of my catchphrase actually. Because, when you’ve got 38-hectares of the finest heritage-listed landscaped gardens right here, it would be wrong not to get amongst some nature. Climb a tree! It’s fun and possum-like. (Just joking, it’s definitely not permitted to climb trees here, find a park bench to sit on instead.) rbg.vic.gov.au

Melbourne’s laneways FREE

> Look, I know it’s ultra touristy but there’s a reason people from all over the world flock to Hosier Lane. So get off your high horse and get lost amongst some sick street art.

People-watching at the State Library FREE

> Humans are strange creatures and the good thing about them is they’re free to observe, for the most part. The world is your zoo and sitting in front of the State Library gives you a front row view to one of the most culturally diverse cross-sections of homo sapiens on the planet. So sit back and look at how bloody weird all these hairless monkeys with iPhones are. For slightly more cerebral stimulation, go inside – entry to the library is also free and the spectacular La Trobe Reading Room in particular, is not to be missed. slv.vic.gov.au

I M A G E _ M A R T I N S H A R P/ C O P Y R I G H T A G E N C Y

—The mission: spend a fabulous day in the world’s second most liveable city… with just $50. David Allegretti has a pineapple in his wallet, a plan in his head and 24 hours but can he do it?—

T HE L A TR OBE READIN G R O O M AT T HE S TATE L IBR ARY

Melbourne on $50

T H E C H ECKL IS T

FREE

> I love this place. The oldest and most-visited art gallery in Australia, it houses more than 70,000 unique works. The art is trippy and free – perfect combo. ngv.vic.gov.au

Asian Beer Café $ 5.0 0

> A whole pizza? For $5?! No way, I hear you say. And to that I say: Way. In fact, it used to be $4 back in the good old days but hey, inflation. Of all the cleverly-named flavours, my favourites are The Road to El Dorado (spicy meat lovers), Babar the Elephant (tandoori chicken) and The Snow White (four cheeses). Best of all, the marvellous view from the grand balcony overlooking the State Library comes free! asianbeercafe.com.au

Kirk’s Wine Bar $11.0 0

> Kirk’s Wine Bar as the sun sets. Need I say more? No, I needn’t. Just trust me. Get yourself their cheapest glass of red – they change up their wine list weekly but you’re always assured it will be quality – and enjoy the hustle and bustle of this primo real estate right on the corner of Little Bourke and Hardware Lane. kirkswinebar.com

R OYAL B OTA NIC GARDENS

ShanDong Mama Mini $10.8 0

The Beechworth Sweet Company $2.5 0

> Time for a quick pit stop on the way to dinner. A day in Melbourne just isn’t complete without some fudge from The Beechworth Sweet Company, which you’ll find in the absolutely gorgeous Block Arcade. About $2.50 will get you 50 grams of the good stuff. beechworthsweetco. com.au

> Nestled in busy Centre Place, this tiny gem has only a handful of tables in a space no bigger than your bedroom so the atmosphere is cosy bordering on chaotic. The little sister of ShanDong Mama in Midcity Arcade, the dumplings here are other-worldly. Try exciting flavours such as their signature Melbourne dumpling with chicken and mixed seafood, lemon rind, olive oil, parsley and garlic, inspired by the city’s multicultural food scene. shandongmama.com.au

R O OF TOP BAR AT C URTIN H O USE

MR TAMBO URINE MAN BY M ARTIN SH ARP AT T HE N GV

The National Gallery of Victoria

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Curtin House’s Rooftop Bar $ 5.5 0

> Melbourne Star Observation Wheel? Pffft. Just head to Rooftop Bar for some stunning (and free) views of the skyline. Grab yourself a pot of Furphy, because nothing says Melbourne quite like a beer brewed in Geelong, and bask in what a solid day you’ve had. Well done. curtinhouse.com Oh, you’ve still got 10 cents. Um, yeah, I totally meant that. That little guy is for tossing into the Yarra, Trevi Fountain style! That’s right. It’s an old Melbourne tradition, so toss that sucker and make a wish.

Fort Canning Park Tunnel Take the underground walkway from Penang Road and emerge beneath a verdant halo. Climb the stairs to find historic Fort Canning Park, a former military bastion turned urban oasis.

T WO SIDES

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OF SINGAPORE

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Wheelock Place Inside this mall on bustling Orchard Road, steel and glass rise into a constellation of glittering lights, enticing visitors to browse seven floors of shopping heaven.

T R AVEL H ACK

HOW TO BEAT JET LAG [AND FEEL HUMAN AGAIN, Q UICK] ADJUST TO THE L OCA

—Kick the after-effects of a long-haul flight and start your trip feeling refreshed and ready to go— L T IM

BEFORE T HE FL IG H T.

ON AS

SS IB

> Adjust your sleeping schedule. Sleep scientist Dr Carmel Harrington, author of The Complete Guide to a Good Night’s Sleep, (Macmillan Australia, $29.99), suggests slowly changing the time you go to bed in the days leading up to your flight. “So instead of going to sleep at 10pm, go to bed at 9.30pm,” she says. “And try to get up a bit earlier each day.”

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> Get your body moving. On the morning of the flight, turn up the tunes and aim for at least 30 minutes of heart-pumping activity. It will help you sleep better on board. > Change the time. As soon as you arrive at the airport, set your watch to your destination’s time zone. But make sure you keep track of local time – you don’t want to miss your flight. “It can be a bit difficult,” Dr Harrington says. “So sometimes people wear two watches.”

> Limit alcoholic drinks. “If you have to have alcohol, just have one glass and then switch to water,” Dr Harrington suggests. “That will minimise your risk of jet lag.”

AT T HE DES T IN AT IO N. > Get out in the sun. If it’s still daylight, hit the pavement for a brisk walk to help the body’s circadian rhythm adjust. “Our exposure to light is the thing that resets our body clock,” Dr Harrington says. “It will wake you up and make you feel good.” > Head to bed if it’s dark. If you arrive at night, limit your exposure to light and get to bed as quickly as possible. Avoid sleeping-in the next morning. Getting up when the sun rises helps reset your body clock. > Take a quick nap. If you find yourself exhausted by the afternoon, then a 20-minute power nap (but no longer) will put you back on your feet.

O N T HE FL IG H T.

T IPS FOR K IDS U NDER 12.

> Create a sleep sanctuary. “Our bodies often do not like to go into a deep sleep when it’s in an unusual environment,” Dr Harrington explains. So pack an eye mask, earplugs and lightweight blanket to help minimise disruptions and increase comfort.

> Switch off screens before bedtime. Dr Harrington explains that blue light produced by electronic devices such as smartphones, affects our ability to produce the sleep-inducing hormone, melatonin. Switch off screens earlier in the evening for a good night’s sleep.

> Eat well. “It’s best to restrict your intake of food and avoid red meat, high-sugar and high-fat food that will cause fragmented sleep,” Dr Harrington says. Try to opt for a lighter meal of fish, vegetables, fruit and nuts. This will give your digestion a rest and allow the body an uninterrupted kip.

> Stick to your bedtime routine. This means packing whatever book, toy or toothbrush you use at home to settle the kids for the night. Then try dabbing a few drops of lavender oil onto a blanket during the flight for a calming effect that will have them out like a light before they can ask, “Are we there yet?”

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GOING ON A HOLIDAY?

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NSW Sydney City 317 Pitt St

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Chatswood Shopping Centre

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ACT Canberra Centre 125 Bunda St

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Canberra Civic 9 Petrie Plaza

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Adelaide City 212 Rundle St

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Marion Shopping Centre

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MYTH

7 M Y T H S AB O U T...

ULURU —Think visiting this sacred site is eye-wateringly expensive or spooked with curses? Think again. Dilvin Yasa busts some common misconceptions about Australia’s most iconic monolith—

MYTH

Uluru is the biggest rock in the world > The honour of the world’s largest monolith falls to Mount Augustus in Western Australia – it’s two-and-a-half times larger. But what Uluru lacks in size, it makes up for in personality. To that end, visitors can enjoy a wide range of activities, whether it’s sunrise camel tours, scenic helicopter rides or hot air balloon adventures.

Uluru is cursed > While stories abound of bad luck following those who take pebbles, rocks, sand and twigs from Uluru – many tourists end up posting back items with an apology note – the Anangu (the oldest living culture known to man and the traditional owners of Uluru) reject the idea of a specific curse. That isn’t to say pocketing such souvenirs isn’t without consequence – under Australian law, it comes in the form of a hefty fine.

MYTH

It only has one season: HOT > Picturing a wardrobe full of sun-beaten Akubra hats and sweat-drenched singlets? If you’re visiting Uluru, you may want to pack the odd coat and scarf as well, because although the temperature can (and will) climb to 45˚C in summer, it’s also known to drop below zero on winter nights. In 1997, Uluru even experienced snow.

MYTH

You need at least a week up your sleeve > Forget about rattling along endless dirt tracks in souped-up four-wheel drives. Not only are the roads well-maintained and built for all sorts of cars, the attractions are fairly close together, flights are direct and tour operators offer one- to three-day best of trips that allow you to pack it all into one unforgettable weekend.

MYTH

Uluru is hard on the wallet > One of the conditions of the privatisation of Ayers Rock Resort (voyages.com. au) in 1997 was that it would cater for travellers across every budget. There is now a range of accommodation available, from camping grounds to self-catering apartments. There is also a free shuttle bus from the hotels to the visitors’ centre and fun, free activities such as guided walks.

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NATIVE BUSH T UCKER

AND 3 TRUTHS I T C H A N GES C OL O U R > Whether it’s a vibrant red at dawn and sunset or rusty orange in the middle of the day, Uluru is notable for appearing to change colour around the clock. But it has nothing to do with the rock’s geological make-up – it’s a trick the sun’s rays play with the environment. You might be surprised to discover the rock isn’t actually red, but grey, with the process of oxidation giving the outer surface layer its distinctive rusty hue.

P H O T O GR AP H Y IS N O T ALL O W ED IN S O ME ARE AS

MYTH

Climbing Uluru is illegal > The ban preventing people from climbing Uluru doesn’t kick in until October 2019, so technically, it’s still not a crime. However, it is worth remembering that the rock is culturally significant and as such, the local Anangu people request that visitors respect their wishes and avoid climbing altogether.

MYTH

Gourmands need not apply > No outback trip is complete without the odd goanna goulash or roo tail pie but the Red Centre is also home to some of Australia’s most extraordinary dining experiences – from native bush tucker tours to dining under a canopy of stars as part of the Tali Wiru experience (running until 28 October; ayersrockresort.com.au).

> While taking photos from afar is fine, visitors are discouraged from capturing certain sacred areas located around the base of the rock, due to Anangu cultural beliefs. Keep your eyes peeled for appropriate signage.

T HE N A ME AYERS R O CK IS S T ILL REC O G NISED > Uluru might have only been “discovered” by Europeans in the 1800s – and named Ayers Rock in honour of then-chief secretary of South Australia, Sir Henry Ayers – but we should remember that long before that, Uluru was considered sacred by the Anangu people. They believe this area was formed by ancient beings of the creation period. The registered name was changed to recognise its Aboriginal name, Uluru, in 1993 – eight years after the Australian government officially returned ownership of Uluru to the Anangu people. Today, both names are still recognised, although Uluru is preferred.

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C ALEN DAR

PUT IT IN THE DIARY —No matter where you are this October, there’s plenty to enjoy—

NSW. INVICTUS GAMES. 20-27 October Various venues, Sydney invictusgames2018.org

WA.

QLD. World Parachuting Championships 6-13 October Runaway Bay Sports Super Centre, Gold Coast apf.com.au/#WPC2018

Cher: Here We Go Again 12 October Perth Arena cher.com I T'S A D AT E 5 October

TAS. Allo Allo 2-13 October Playhouse Theatre, Hobart playhouse.org.au Royal Hobart Show 25-27 October Hobart Showground hobartshowground.com.au

World Smile Day 17 October Take Your Parents to Lunch Day 25 October

VIC. Melbourne International Arts Festival 3-21 October Various venues, Melbourne melbournefestival.com.au

World Pasta Day

Australian Motorcycle Grand Prix 26-28 October Phillip Island motogp.com.au

NSW. Sculpture by the Sea, Bondi 18 October to 4 November Bondi to Tamarama coastal walk, Sydney sculpturebythe sea.com/bondi

JAPAN. Tokyo Grand Tea Ceremony 13-14 and 20-21 October Hama-rikyu Gardens and Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum, Tokyo tokyo-grand-teaceremony2018.jp Bledisloe Cup 2018: All Blacks v Wallabies 27 October Nissan Stadium, Yokohama rugby.com.au

SA. ADELAIDE FASHION FESTIVAL. 17-21 October Various venues, Adelaide adelaidefashion festival.com.au

NEW ZEALAND. Okere Falls Store Beer Fest 17-20 October Okere Falls, Rotorua okerefallsstore.co.nz

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the traveller > WHERE TO GO NEXT

P O RT ST EP HENS PA G E

080 H O C HI MIN H CI T Y

PA G E

> Baguettes, architecture and French lingo remain a legacy of Franceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 67-year rule over Vietnam from 1887.

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> The sparkling port city was named after Charles Darwin but the British naturalist never actually visited the area.

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> Even though the Tasmanian tiger has been extinct for over 80 years, locals still report sightings of the thylacine.

T H E T R AV ELLER

01. < THE

F O O DIE

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“Locals are obsessed with noodle soup. They eat it for breakfast, lunch and dinner.”

1 DES T IN AT IO N 3 WAYS

HO CHI MINH CITY —Three very different travellers take us on a tour of this frenetic and fabulous city. Now all you have to do is choose your own adventure—

02. < THE

E XPAT >

“Watching the sunset over the city lights is the perfect way to end a beautifully hectic day.”

03. < THE

FA MILY >

“Dance and feats of strength accompanied by folk music are just the beginning.”

01. THE 038

FOODIE

NAME B E N G R O U N D WAT ER TOP TIP TEA IS FREE IN VIETNAMESE RES TA U R A N T S

> EATS FROM THE STREETS. Food here is culture. It’s history. It’s life – and it’s no surprise some of the best food in Ho Chi Minh City is dished up by the hardworking vendors plying their trade on the city streets. This is a classic South-East Asian style of eating – food at its most accessible. Wander street food hotspots such as Tran Khac Chan street in District 1 or Van Kiep and Nguyen Thuong Hien in District 3 and see what takes your fancy. It might be banh mi, the ubiquitous Vietnamese pork rolls, com tam (steamed rice with meat or fish), nem ran (deep-fried spring rolls) or banh tet (sweet sticky rice served with banana and red bean paste).

A STREE T FO O D VEND OR FL IPPING BANH XEO PANCAKES

> SIPPING NOODLE SOUP. L O C AL T IP If you’re concerned about food safety, look for dishes you can see being cooked in front of you.

The people of Ho Chi Minh City are obsessed with noodle soup. They eat it for breakfast, lunch and dinner. And you should, too. My ultimate day of soup-sipping would involve a visit to Bun Rieu Nguyen Canh Chan in District 1, a tiny shop that does the best bun rieu – a slightly sour, crab-based soup with vermicelli noodles. I’d also include a night-time meal at Banh Canh Cua, a restaurant that only serves the dish it’s named after, a thick crab soup with tapioca noodles. Finally, I’d have to stop in at Hu Tieu Nam Vang Nhan Quan (hanquanhutieunamvang.com) for their clear, cleansing soup. Then I’d go home for a long lie down.

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> ON A ROLL. Once you’re tired of eating with chopsticks and a spoon, move on to another local style of eating – “roll your own”. This doesn’t just apply to goi cuon, the rice paper rolls that are well known to foreigners and done beautifully at Hoang Ty (hoangty.vn). You’ll also need to work those dexterous fingers when eating bo la lot – minced meat wrapped in betel leaves, grilled, then rolled in lettuce, rice paper and herbs. Try it at District 3’s Co Lien Bo La Lot. Banh xeo, the seafood-filled Vietnamese crepes, are also eaten rolled in lettuce and rice paper. Banh Xeo in District 1 roll the city’s best – look for it on the corner of Dinh Cong Trang.

> SNAIL’S PACE. Here’s something different: snails. Sea snails and freshwater snails. Fried, steamed or poached. In southern Vietnam, snails are a delicacy and they’re eaten with gusto across the city. Hunt down Oc Chi Em, a rooftop eatery accessible via a scruffy alleyway in District 3 – I’d recommend heading up there for sea snails fried with chilli and garlic, washed down with a cold beer.

T IRED? Call into the nearest Trung Nguyen café – Vietnam’s answer to Starbucks – for an iced coffee.

> SO FINE. Not all Vietnamese food is eaten on the streets or in basic, cheap restaurants. There are some excellent fine-dining options for those who want to treat themselves. For French-style haute cuisine, check out La Villa (lavilla-restaurant.com. vn). For a sumptuous brunch, hit up the Sunday buffet at Le Meridien hotel (lemeridiensaigon. com). Or for a modern take on Viet cuisine, try celebrity chef Luke Nguyen’s Vietnam House (vietnamhousesaigon.com).

PANDAN CRÈME BRÛLÉE AT VIE T NAM H O USE

RICE PAPER ROLLS

02. THE

T HE CAFÉ APART MEN T

E XPAT NAME JUSTINE LOPEZ TOP TIP WHEN CROSSING T HE TR AFFICR I D D L E D S T R E E T S, W A L K S L O W LY A N D THE MOTORBIKES WILL GO AROUND Y O U. N E V E R R U N!

> A ROOF WITH A VIEW. Riding the high-speed lift to the observation deck on the 49th floor of the Bitexco Financial Tower (bitexco financialtower.com) to catch 360-degree views of Ho Chi Minh City is a tourist favourite but I don’t think it’s worth the $12. Instead, I like to slip in to a breezy rooftop bar – that way I get the same incredible views and a fancy cocktail for the same price. Chill Skybar (chillsaigon.com) is less than two kilometres from Bitexco and is the most high-end rooftop bar in the CBD. (Be warned: there’s a strict dress code so don’t wear your Birkenstocks or sports shorts.) A more mellow option is Shri Restaurant and Lounge (shri.vn) in District 3. Take a seat and enjoy panoramic views of landmarks including the iconic Saigon River.

> INSTAGRAM-WORTHY HOTSPOTS.

L O C AL T IP A common local expression says, “Go out in District 1, eat in District 5 and live in District 3.”

There are countless hidden gems in this city but one of my most quirky finds is what is dubbed “The Café Apartment” (aka 42 Nguyen Hue), in District 1. This nine-storey complex housed Vietnamese government officials and American military officers during the Vietnam War. After the war, it was home to working-class Vietnamese. Today, roughly 30 boutiques, cool cafés and trendy restaurants occupy most of the former apartments. This place has it all, from English teashops to lingerie stores to poke bowl eateries. Not only is it a fun place to explore but its striking exterior makes it the most Instagrammable site in town. Each shop decorates its balcony with colourful paint, plants and edgy signs, breathing new life into the decaying building.

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C O OL I T. Explore the city in the mornings, late afternoons and evenings. Things really heat up around midday.

> EXPLORING BACK ALLEYS.

T HE FAM O US BUI VIEN BACKPACKER STREE T

> CAFÉ CULTURE. I spend a lot of my time tapping away on my laptop in one of the city’s many coffee shops. Some of my favourite places roast their own locally sourced beans from Vietnam’s Central Highlands and serve up specialty drinks. Given the intensely hot and humid weather – temperatures hover around 30°C year-round – I like to enjoy a chilled cup of cold brew at Vietnam Coffee Republic (republic. coffee) and The Workshop (fb.me/the.workshop.coffee), both in District 1.

With high-rises and high-end shops, downtown is becoming increasingly cosmopolitan. But it’s the city’s untouched areas that intrigue me the most. As the sun goes down, I often wander the narrow alleyways that splinter off the infamous Bui Vien “Backpacker” Street. It’s just a few kilometres from the more upmarket areas surrounding Bitexco Tower but it feels like another world. If you ask me, this is where real life happens. These alleys represent how a large chunk of the city’s estimated 13 million people live. Families sit on living room floors eating together, women stir giant vats of fragrant broth, men play cards on stools outside. For me, the heart and soul of Ho Chi Minh City is here.

> TRUE BREWS. When I moved to Ho Chi Minh City in 2017, I had no idea the city was home to a surprisingly sophisticated craft beer scene. Hanging out at an American-style microbrewery might not sound like your quintessential Vietnam experience but as an expat from California, sometimes I crave comfort foods like pub grub and craft beer. One of my go-to spots is the rooftop terrace of Pasteur Street Brewing Company (vn.pasteurstreet.com) on the edge of District 1. What is fascinating about Pasteur is that their brews are made with ingredients from different areas of Vietnam – jasmine from Sapa, pepper from Phu Quoc. The ultra-tart Passionfruit Wheat Ale is by far my favourite beer – best served with a side of fried pickles. VIE T NAM C OFFEE REPUBL IC

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THE FA MILY

> RISE AND SHINE. Kids up early? Head to Tao Dan Park in District 1 and watch the locals practising tai chi, belly dancing or taking a constitutional stroll in the cool morning air. The lush 10-hectare park includes shady avenues of tropical trees, replicas of Nha Trang's Cham Tower and Hung King Temple, plus a playground. Children will love the park’s “bird café”, where many older locals sip coffee, chat and enjoy a game of cards accompanied by their prized birds.

NAME SHERIDEN RHODES TOP TIP BOOK A HOTEL WITH A GOOD POOL

> THREEWHEELED FUN.

CYCLOS ARE TR ADI TIO NAL PEDAL-P OWERED TA XIS

TAO DAN PARK’S BIRD CAFÉ

A cyclo tour is a close-up way to take in Vietnam’s most populous city and if your kids are anything like my 10-year-old, they’ll love the fact they don’t have to walk. A cyclo (or rickshaw) is a traditional taxi operated by pedal power. Tours generally range from two to four hours and take in the main highlights – think Saigon Central Post Office, Notre Dame Cathedral and the War Remnants Museum (be prepared for some distressing exhibits; Independence Palace is a safer bet for kids). To ensure you’re matched with the right cyclo driver and pay the going rate, it’s a good idea to book through your hotel. And it’s best to have the right cash ready as many drivers don’t carry change.

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L O C AL T IP Take the crew to Fanny Ice Cream (fanny.com.vn). It’s terrific on a hot day.

> DEEP HISTORY. Explore the tunnel network of Cu Chi (en.diadaocuchi. com.vn), used by the Viet Cong in the Vietnam War. Many tours operate from Ho Chi Minh City (book at your hotel tour desk) and give an authentic sense of the underground life of soldiers during the war.

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H O C HI MIN H CI T Y

BEN T HANH MARKE T

> TO MARKET, TO MARKET. Kids will have a chance to work on their negotiation skills at Ben Thanh Market (chobenthanh.org.vn). Formally established by the French in 1870 in District 1, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most popular market, crammed with stalls selling everything from jewellery and traditional hats to fidget spinners, squishies (or whatever the latest craze happens to be) plus fresh seafood. For cheaper prices, try Pham Van Hai market, while bargain clothes, shoes and bags can be found at Saigon Square.

> WAY OFF BROADWAY. Enjoy the colourful stories of the Golden Dragon Water Puppet Theatre, which includes singing (in Vietnamese) and traditional music. Book through your hotel and ask for a front row seat if your kids enjoy getting splashed. Kids (7+) will also love the AO Show by Lune Production (luneproduction. com), known as the Cirque du Soleil of Vietnam for its eye-popping acrobatics. Contemporary dance and feats of strength accompanied by folk music are just the beginning.

KOTO SAIG O N

> HELP IS ON THE MENU. Dine at KOTO Saigon (koto.com.au), a not-for-profit restaurant that helps disadvantaged kids. KOTO (which stands for Know One, Teach One) is operated by former Intrepid Travel tour leader Jimmy Pham and offers trainees the chance to fine-tune their hospitality skills, while diners tuck into the delicious South-East Asian fusion menu. Kids will love the crunchy spring rolls (perhaps avoid the wok-fried frogs). A Western menu is available, too.

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I M A G E S _ L A U R E N C E B E N S O N, R H I A N N A _ A N D _ C O/ I N S TA G R A M, S LY V I E DI N H

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F O OT

—Dotted across the South Pacific Ocean, the Cook Islands are a castaway’s paradise. Craig Tansley takes us back to his carefree childhood on Rarotonga – the island wonderland he called home—

O NE FO OT ISL AND – AN U NINHABI TED ISLE T IN AI T U TAKI L AG O O N

PA R A D I S E

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C O O K ISL A N D S

didn’t get my first pair of shoes until I was six years old. The unforgiving pieces of scratchy canvas, which appeared at the end of my bed one day, were to be worn for my very occasional visits to Sunday school and felt like a needless, aggravating extravagance. I didn’t need them at home and I definitely didn’t need them for school – no-one wore shoes to Avatea Primary School, least of all the teachers. I lived on the west coast of Rarotonga in Arorangi. Every morning, I’d squeeze barefoot and cheek-to-cheek with my classmates on a wooden bench in the back of an old converted truck to ride to school, passing the lagoon at Black Rock. Every morning, I’d wish to God I could skip class and go swimming instead. My school was at Nikao – barely five kilometres away – but I felt every bump of the road right through my sandy toes and up my vertebrae. At recess and lunchtime, we’d play life-and-death games of marbles on the dirt we flattened out under yellow and white tipana (frangipani) trees. The flowers smelled so sweet I could practically taste them, especially in summer, when the humidity grew so heavy my school shirt stuck to my back. We were one of the 30 or so papa’a (foreign) families on the island. My Sydney-born-andbred mother met my dad when she was scarcely out of her teens, backpacking around New Zealand. My father worked for the courts in Dunedin and when he was offered a post in the Cook Islands, he jumped at the opportunity. They bid farewell to their families and took a supply ship to Rarotonga, overstaying their posting by four years before moving to New Zealand, where I was born. But they never could wash Raro out of their skin. We all shipped ourselves 3200 kilometres north-east when I was still in nappies, back to an island with no TV, no phone lines and no international airport. Our house was so close to the lagoon that every big storm required us to save Dee Dee, our pet duck, from his enclosure on the sand beneath the coconut trees. Once, the water washed right up through our back door and into my brother’s bedroom. The water never rose higher – there wasn’t ever much real danger on our island. The angriest waves the Pacific Ocean could produce couldn’t do us harm. We had a barrier reef and our lagoon, which was like a crystal-clear moat, around the whole island to save us.

CR AIG TANSLEY, AGED 2

CR AIG’S NIECE AND NEPHEW AT AI T U TAKI L AG O O N

Those protected blue waters were where I learnt to swim, first by dog paddling between coral heads and then swimming freestyle out to the reef. That’s how all the kids in Raro learnt to swim. Even today, no-one has bothered building a public pool. When my parents were satisfied I could stay afloat, they wouldn’t see me for entire weekends. Gangs of kids would take off to the four tiny uninhabited motus (islets) in Muri Lagoon, on the island’s eastern coastline. We’d camp on beaches and pretend we were castaways, casting out dodgy fishing lines for our dinner. I don’t remember ever catching a single fish – we’d eat noodles on the sand instead. Nearly 40 years later, that same lagoon is about the only place you’re likely to witness a congregation of tourists – though it is hardly what you’d call a crowd. Over 350,000 Australian tourists will visit Fiji this year, and around 63,000 will travel to Vanuatu, but only 25,000 will make it that little bit further east to Rarotonga. Why? It beats me. But I’m happy to keep things the way they’ve always been – the Cook Islands epitomise everything that’s perfect about the South Pacific.

11 T H E N U M BER OF PR IM A RY S C H O OL S ON THE COOK ISL A N D S

THE NUMBER OF TRAFFIC LIGHTS

15 THE NUMBER OF MAIN ISL ANDS THAT MAKE UP THE COOKS

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T HE C OAST OF ARU TANGA O N AI T U TAKI ISL AND

C O O K ISL A N D S

There’s no traffic – even at peak hour. With the island’s leisurely 50 kilometres per hour speed limit, there are more pigs and dogs on Rarotonga’s main coastal road than cars. There are no big high-rises, either – no building can be taller than the highest coconut tree. And there’s no crime, except the theft of taro (a starchy root vegetable that’s the staple of the Polynesian diet), which still gets top billing in the Cook Islands News. This country, built from coconut and pandanus trees, is made up of 15 islands spread across an area of the Pacific Ocean about twice the size of Western Europe (two million square kilometres) and the population is just over 17,000. There are islands about 40 minutes flying time from Rarotonga – like Mangaia and Mitiaro – which receive less than 100 tourists a year. Lonely Planet dubbed the Cook Islands “a castaway’s dream come true”. And locals warn if you see someone else on a beach, move on – no-one likes a crowd in the Cooks. If I ever grew tired of the lagoon, I’d walk a few hundred metres from my home, past Ara Tapu, the coastal road that encircles the island, and onto the Pacific’s oldest road, Ara Metua. Today, few people venture up here. Back then, it was a window into a world as exciting as any I saw at the island’s one and only cinema. Fierce mountains rose up behind plantations but thick jungle blocked anyone getting to them. We heard there were football field-sized maraes (traditional meeting grounds) with skulls from human sacrifices up there. Even today, few have ventured far enough to really know.

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S TAY E AT > Tamarind House The fish curry is legendary at this restaurant, housed inside a century-old home just metres from the lagoon. tamarindrarotonga.com > Waterline Restaurant Arorangi has the Pacific’s best sunset bars and nothing beats the rustic charms of the Waterline Restaurant and Beach Bar. waterline-restaurant.com > Trader Jacks Try the te ika mata – raw fish marinated with lime and coconut cream – at this iconic watering hole on Avarua Harbour. traderjackscook islands.com

> Nautilus Resort Enjoy the resort’s plunge pools and villas overlooking Muri Lagoon’s tiny islets. nautilusresort rarotonga.com > The Rarotongan Beach Resort and Spa This is one of Rarotonga’s top family resorts, with rooms on one of the island’s most scenic beaches. therarotongan.com > The Pacific Resort Aitutaki Take a 40-minute flight to the magical Aitutaki lagoon and stay at this resort, consistently rated one of the best in the region. pacificaitutaki.com

C O O K ISL A N D S

A TR ADI TIO NAL DANCER IN R AROTO NGA

The maraes, lagoons and islands filled my dreams as a child but it’s the locals I remember most in my waking hours. The people were jovial and loved everyone else’s families as much as they loved their own. When I was a kid, we had a babysitter called Nono. She smelled of coconut oil and had a tiare maori (the sweet-smelling national flower of the Cook Islands) wedged permanently behind her ear. My brother’s head of white curls had her besotted. Cook Islanders share child-raising duties, and some families give up their babies to siblings who can’t have children. I wonder if my mum ever worried she wouldn’t get my brother back. My family moved to Byron Bay on the NSW North Coast for my high school years. I’m glad, I guess, that I left the island before my folks could ship me to a New Zealand boarding school as most expats did back then. But a big part of me stayed in the Cooks. Just like Dad did – he’s still there. He reckons they’ll only get him out in a wooden box, though that’s unlikely, considering he’s reserved a burial at sea. I visit him at least once a year. My uncle is Polynesian so I’ve got more cousins in the Cooks than there are coconuts in trees. These islands shaped my life. Travel writer, Paul Theroux, says a person who lives on an island “craves simplicity and glories in a world that is still incomplete and, therefore, full of possibilities”. I think he’s over-complicated it. To me, it’s about that first smell of frangipanis as the plane doors open when I return home. In a world that’s gone mad, that’s too frenetic, that has too many possibilities, I find myself clinging to the idea that change doesn’t have to be inevitable. Life can still be as perfect and simple as the childhood I had on Rarotonga.

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still, hire a moped – some of Rarotonga’s best scenic trails can only be accessed by moped. Drive around the island with no agenda and you’ll discover roads into Rarotonga’s mountainous interior.

I T’S AL M OST ALWAYS SU NNY IN R AROTO NGA

L O C AL T IP Hire a car or, better

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[PAR T 1: T HE ULT IM AT E HI T L IS T] —Sunset sailing? Tick. Airboat ride? Tick. Swimming with crocs? Tick, tick, tick. Belinda Luksic has you covered with the best of the Northern Territory’s thriving capital—

> RELIVE THE PAST. You don’t have to be a history buff to appreciate Darwin’s wartime past. At the Royal Flying Doctor Service (RFDS) Darwin Tourist Facility on Stokes Hill Wharf, don virtual reality goggles and go back to 1942 and the bombing of Darwin Harbour – the show’s sounds and special effects will have you ducking and diving as if you were there. Pair your visit with a tour of the nearby World War II oil storage tunnels to extend your wartime experience. rfdsdarwin.com.au

A N ADREN AL INE-P U MPIN G AIRB OAT RIDE

L O C AL T IP Looking for the best sunset views? Head to Mindil Beach, famous for stunning skies over the Timor Sea.

> FEEL THE RUSH. Fans of National Geographic series Outback Wrangler can have their own fast-paced, heart-pumping adventure by climbing aboard a custom-built V8 airboat with the show’s star, Matt Wright, on the Darwin Airboat Tour. You’ll hit the water at Stokes Hill Wharf for a lightning-fast lap of the harbour before skidding across mudflats on a 45-minute ride towards local mangroves. It’s an exhilarating experience and a unique way to spot local wildlife. mattwright.com.au

FISHIN G DAR WIN’S WATERS

> FISH FOR BARRA. Local tradie Sean Cremin has spent years fishing Darwin’s waters. “It’s uncharted land here,” he says. “You can chuck in [a fishing line] at the harbour – but I like to fish out of places like Mary River at Shady Camp [a two-hour drive from Darwin].” With kilometres of water to explore, locals happily share tips with visitors – as there’s plenty of fish for everyone. “My mate runs Barra Boat Hire and Fishing Charters,” he says. “He puts people up with a boat, tackle and rods and gives them tips on where the fish are biting.” barraboathire.com.au

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> FEAST ON FLAVOUR.

YATI’S L AKSA

It was voted Darwin’s best laksa – and a bowl of Yati’s award-winning laksa for breakfast is just one reason to visit the charming Parap Village Markets. Every Saturday from 8am to 2pm, more than a dozen food trucks set up in the small neighbourhood market, offering a tantalising mix of smoothies, satays and other Asian flavours. Along with fresh produce, there are stalls brimming with bush spices, jewellery, Indigenous art, dillybags and baskets. parapvillagemarkets.com.au

“T H O SE BR AVE EN O U G H CA N C O ME FACE TO FACE W I T H GI A N T CR O C S AS T HE Y SW IM, FEED A N D T HR ASH AB O U T.”

> SAIL AT SUNSET. The tropical sunsets in the Northern Territory capital are the stuff of legend. A Sunset Fish and Chips Cruise is one of the more unforgettable ways to experience the city’s brilliant and dramatic skies. Set out at twilight from Stokes Hill Wharf on a 90-minute cruise with Sea Darwin. The leisurely sail takes in Darwin Harbour before dropping anchor at pretty Cullen Bay for a delicious dinner of wild-caught fish and chips to be enjoyed on board. Along the way, you might spy a pod of frolicking dolphins, spot birdlife at Sadgroves Creek or disembark to stroll the sandbar at Fannie Bar. seadarwin.com

CR O C O SAURUS C OVE’S CAGE OF DEAT H

> EYEBALL A CROC. The Cage of Death at Crocosaurus Cove is a spine-tingling underwater encounter with the world’s largest reptile. Those brave enough can come face to face with giant crocs as they swim, feed and thrash about – all from the safety of a glass cage. If that’s not enough, the VIP tour gives you the chance to nurse a baby croc and even feed some of the larger ones. crocosaurus.cove.com

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[PART 2: SLOW IT DOWN] > You’ve seen the sights of Darwin, now what do you do? Find one special experience that will stay with you long after you return home.

A TO UR ARRIVES AT BAT H URS T ISL A ND

two-and-a-half-hour ferry cruise from Darwin across the Beagle Gulf has brought me here to Bathurst Island. It’s one of only two inhabited islands in the Tiwis and home to an Aboriginal culture unchanged for more than 7000 years. Setting foot on this ancient land, I’m struck by the beauty of the place – the scorched red earth, the lush tropical forests, the chalky green sea and the rich tribal art splashed across the buildings and signposts in town. It was once only barramundi-mad fishermen who visited the Tiwi Islands (made up of the larger Bathurst and Melville Islands and nine smaller isles). Today, you can visit on a tour with AAT Kings, which is why I’m here in someone’s backyard, watching four local women sit under the shade of a eucalypt, painting seashells. They’re deftly splashing bands of red and yellow ochre in the distinct patterns of Tiwi art. It’s a bold, geometric artistic style that is steeped in tradition – ancient pukumani burial poles were decorated much the same way.

Aunty Pam, the elder of the four women, beams a toothless grin and urges our group to come close. As she works, we laugh and yarn over tea and damper hot from the camp fire. The younger women smile shyly. “See that big fella over there?” one says, pointing in the direction of one of our guides. “That’s my boyfriend.” Aunty Pam laughs and declares she has no need for a husband. “I’m in charge of all these fellas.” Seeing the glint in her eye as she speaks, I’m inclined to believe this. Behind Aunty Pam, a billy can steams above a blazing camp fire. A mother nurses a baby. Another child, her belly sticking out above a faded ra-ra skirt, clomps around in her dad’s dusty work boots. Nearby sits an open-air shed and a wooden sign hangs from the rafters with the word “YOLO” engraved on it. It’s a peculiar thing to see and I wonder whether it actually means “you only live once”.

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“HERE IN T HE T IW IS, T HERE IS T IME TO STOP A N D C H AT... I T’S A FAR CRY FR O M M Y B USY L IFE BACK IN SY D NE Y.”

A G UIDE PREPARES FOR A PERFORM A N CE

Our guide, Romi, gathers a pile of ironwood leaves for a smoking ceremony, performed as a blessing for newcomers. He puts a flame to the pile and swirls the long green leaves until they smoulder and smoke, sending a billowing white plume into the air. I circle it, breathing in the pungent air that will cleanse and ward off any evil spirits, feeling at once connected to this place and its ancient traditions. In the waters surrounding the island are saltwater crocodiles, sea turtles and sharks. They are some of the Dreamtime animals evoked during a spirit dance performance. The men bang together clap sticks in a steady rhythm that brings the women to their feet to dance around the smoking fire. Hands sway and twirl in the air as they dance and laugh. The happiness on everyone’s faces reminds me why the Tiwis are known as the islands of smiles. Tiwi means “one people” and this close-knit community welcome us with a genuine warmth and humour that makes us smile, too. Here in the Tiwis, there is time to stop and chat and not worry too much about a schedule. It’s a far cry from my busy life back in Sydney. There is nothing polished or sophisticated about it – and that’s precisely its charm. On the ferry back to Darwin, I marvel at the privilege of having stepped into this ancient culture for a day. Bathurst Island is almost lost to sight but the Tiwi Islands will stay with me for a long while.

BASKE T WEAVIN G IS A TR ADITIO N AL CR AF T

P UK U M A NI B URIAL P OLES

D E TA IL S > Where Bathurst Island > Tour highlights A visit to the burial poles is an insight into the culture and spirituality of the Tiwi people > Handy hint Bring cash – you will want to purchase some art > Price $295 (for a one-day tour, includes ferry and lunch) aatkings.com.au

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taying true to its iconic history, The Lucky Hotel under went major renovations in 2014 to restore its original façade & breath new life back into the historic building. Contrasted against an opulent fit out, the hotel now offers an exquisite mix of old and new. Family-owned & operated, The Lucky Hotel leaves no stone unturned with the utmost attention to detail amongst all of their offerings. Level 1 & 2 are fitted with 30 boutique, award winning suites with modern furnishings, plush bedding and premium L’Occitane amenities. Wander downstairs to the Drum Bar & you will discover a delectable variety of craft beers, both regional & international wines, signature cocktails & seasonal cocktail jugs. Pass through to the light filled internal courtyard where you can take in their lush vertical garden, rustic timber décor & weekend live entertainment. Come nightfall,

the space comes to life with luminous projections splashed across three stories of exposed brickwork. Here, you can immerse yourself in the brand new menu which has been carefully composed by Head Chef, Wayne Brogan. Favourites include Crispy Beef Brisket Taco’s, Slow Smoked Lamb Shoulder & Deep Fried Pickles. With a wide variety to choose from, you will be planning your next visit before you leave to try the next tempting dish that gets whisked past your table. • Best New/Redeveloped Hotel - Country 2015 • Best Burger 2015 • Best Pub - Style Accomodation Deluxe 2015 • Best Individual Hotel Operator 2015 • Overall Hotel of the Year - Country 2015 • Best Hotel Accomodation - General Division 2016

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A DVEN T U RE

—Sushi, sake and... surfing? While other countries lay claim to some pretty great waves, surf’s up in Japan’s Miyazaki prefecture, too. Simon Tsang makes a splash exploring this unexpected surfing destination—

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e v wa JAPA N

MI YA Z AK I

K ISAK I BEAC H IN MIYAZAK I CIT Y, MIYAZAK I PREFEC T URE

AO SHIM A TR OPICAL R OAD

Paddling furiously then springing upright into the standing position isn’t something my body is accustomed to, so all semblance of balance and coordination has gone out the window. Face-first, feet-first, back-first – even buttfirst – I’ve tried them all. Still, plunging into waist-deep water – as warm as it is – provides a welcome relief from the baking hot sun and sultry conditions of a Japanese summer. Of all the places I would have expected to learn to surf, the Land of the Rising Sun wasn’t one of them. So why Japan? Well, as far as hidden surfing gems go, Miyazaki prefecture on the east coast of Kyushu is a treasure. Japan is divided into 47 prefectures, similar to the states in Australia. Miyazaki is to Japan what Queensland is to Australia – it’s the country’s “sunshine capital” and it’s popular with locals year-round. With its laid-back vibe and abundance of sun-kissed locals, surf culture in Miyazaki is alive and well. But the tropical destination is still relatively unknown to international

I M A G E S _ R YA N B U T T E R F I E L D, S I M O N T S A N G, K I M I Y U K I K U M A M O T O

I AM discovering new and creative ways to fall into water as fatigue sets in.

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travellers, despite playing host to world-class surfing competitions. So with the hordes of tourists elsewhere, you get an authentic experience in Miyazaki – and there’s plenty of sun, surf and sake to go around. I’m taking my surf lesson at Okuragahama Beach in Hyuga city, about a 75-minute drive north from Miyazaki Airport. Framed by pine forest, it’s one of the leading surf spots in the country and at about four kilometres long, it’s also Hyuga’s largest sandy beach. Hama means beach in Japanese, so technically it’s just Okuraga Beach, but English speakers add the extra word at the end for good measure. So here I am, paddling my heart out in the height of summer. If it were possible to sweat under water, I would be. Regardless, I have a goofy grin on my face that no amount of sweat could wash away. On weekends, I’m told the beach car park overflows with visitors from other parts of Japan and food trucks line up to keep hungry beachgoers fed. Today, it’s limited to vans kitted out for surfing safaris. Most look like they’ve been at it for a while. They’re not just your typical young surfer types either. Families with young children have rolled up and, in some cases, pitched a tent (which is perfectly legal here). I even spot a cat, clearly a household pet, sitting beside one of the vans. The enthusiasm for surfing is spread across a wide demographic – there are kids, women and men of all ages. It’s a dynamic that Okuragahama serves well, as beginners stick to the sheltered southern end of the beach, while more experienced surfers head further north for the bigger breaks. It’s at the southern end that learners, like me, yelp with delight after successfully catching a wave.

E AT > Jidori Are you brave enough to try free-range chicken you can eat raw? Yes, raw. This special chook is raised and grilled over charcoal in such a way the raw or half-cooked meat won’t make you sick. > Chicken Nanban Dig in to this popular deep-fried “southern-style” chicken topped off with a creamy sauce made from hard-boiled egg.

M CKENZIE B O W DEN AT O UR A IN NIC HIN A N

MIYAZAK I C OAS TL INE FR O M T HE H ORIK IRI PAS S LO OKO U T

MI YA Z AK I

> Shochu The preferred alcoholic drink in these parts is shochu, which is distinctly different to sake or the similar sounding (and tasting) Korean soju. > Hebesu Try the popular citrus fruit that is similar to lime but without the sourness. Hebesu and mango are the favoured fruit flavourings here. Local mangoes are highly prized. But you’d have to be pretty keen on having one, as they are about $30 each and can reach as much as $100 a pop.

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Competitive surfer McKenzie Bowden (pictured above with Japanese pro surfer Kaito Morizono at Uchiumi) joined us to check out the waves in Miyazaki. When the New Zealander-turned-Gold Coast local isn’t competing, he travels creating surf and lifestyle content. What do you think about the surf conditions in Miyazaki? > The conditions were great. From beaches to point breaks, there are waves for all surfers – beginners to advanced. What is the surf culture like in Miyazaki? > In the water, it’s definitely more chilled out compared to the Gold Coast [Queensland] and other places I’ve surfed. There’s no rush. People are on island time and everyone is stoked and has a smile on their face. I felt welcomed and I met some great people. What did you enjoy most about the trip to Miyazaki? > The food is amazing. The place is warm and beautiful but the most enjoyable thing for me was meeting such good people who make you feel right at home. What were some of your favourite spots? > Uchiumi was sick – we got some nice waves there. I also enjoyed going to Aoshima Shrine and taking the little tuk tuk bikes around the island. It’s a magical little area.

P OKE 2489 AT AO SHIM A BEAC H PARK

GO WITH A PRO

Moments before my dip in the ocean, we had been lying face-down on the warm sand. Our instructor Joji, from Sunrise Surf Shop (sunrise-surfshop.com), took us through the motions of paddling in pretend surf on a pretend surfboard we drew in the sand around us. Joji is all smiles as he shows us how to move from lying prone to standing with feet shoulder-width apart in two quick movements. After a couple of dry runs, we grabbed our boards and headed straight into the surf for the real thing. Lucky for us, the waves were small and regular so it wasn’t long before we were able to stand with varying degrees of success. Although, with a bright yellow longboard made of foam, I probably looked more like I was riding on a giant banana than actually surfing. Elsewhere in Hyuga – which aptly means “facing the sun” – there are plenty of things to do beyond surfing. Japan is well known for its onsens (hot springs) and here you can enjoy a soak while taking in beach views. Hyuga Sun Park Onsen is a must-visit for a unique take on ocean vistas. The facility is divided into bathing areas for men and women and the indoor pools and shower rooms have floor-to-ceiling glass windows facing the sea, so you’ve always got a great view. The onsen draws on the naturally heated local spring water, which contains less sulphur than your average mountain hot springs.

F O RE! Miyazaki is also home to Phoenix Country Club (golf.seagaia. co.jp/pcc) – ranked one of the top three golf courses in the country.

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The onsen also has a small outdoor area with a cave bath on one side and outdoor rock bath on the other. The gendered sections swap sides regularly so visitors can try both baths on repeated visits. Don’t worry, you won’t wander into the wrong one by mistake as the entrances are clearly marked next to the reception area. While the views from Sun Park are great, you will have to leave the onsen and take up one of the vantage points around town to see the best of the coastline’s dramatic rock formations. The most famous of these is the columnar rocks, which rise a spectacular 70 metres out of the ocean at Umagase. Hyuga is also home to the historic port town of Mimitsu, located at the mouth of the Mimi River. According to Japanese mythology, the country’s first emperor Jimmu, launched a naval expedition from this spot in 607BC. This is thought to have been the birth of the Japanese navy. Today, you can visit the town’s wave-shaped monument, which was built to mark the event. You can also check out many of Mimitsu’s traditional homes and buildings that prospered from the Edo (1615-1868) to the Taisho (1912-1926) eras in Japan. While I wouldn’t call myself a surfer just yet, Miyazaki’s mix of laid-back surf lifestyle and traditional culture is infectious. On my next visit, I’ll pitch a tent on the sand and aim to practice until I can tackle the bigger waves… and maybe even bring my own cat.

P L AY > Recently built, Aoshima Beach Park is the perfect place to hang out in Miyazaki city and grab a bite from one of the many food outlets. Nearby is a small island, where you can visit Aoshima Shrine, connected to the main beach via a footbridge. > Keen for a change of pace? Take a scenic drive along Horikiri Pass and check out the rugged coastline, reminiscent of the Great Ocean Road in Victoria. Stop off at the lookout point where you can grab a soft serve while enjoying the views.

> Sheraton Grande Ocean Resort At 45 storeys high, you would be hardpressed to find better views than at this towering resort. Its guest-only Kurobar overlooking the pool and garden is a stylish place to chill out with a drink. The breakfast buffet in the Pine Terrace restaurant is a crowd-pleaser with an amazing choice of Western and Asian cuisines. Plus, a visit to their beautifully crafted onsen nestled in a pine grove is the perfect way to end a busy day. sheraton.marriott.com > Hotel Verfort Hyuga Stay at one of the biggest hotels in town. While the rooms are fairly basic, the hotel has a rooftop beer garden and is near plenty of bars and restaurants. Plus, it’s a 10-minute walk from the train station verfort.co.jp

TRANSPORT > By air The region’s main airport is located in Miyazaki city – a two-hour flight from Tokyo’s Narita International Airport. > By train You can catch a train from the airport at Miyazaki city to Hyuga city. > By car Public transport is limited in Miyazaki, so hiring a car is best. Vans are cheap to rent and come with internal racks for surfboards and water tanks for rinsing yourself off at the beach.

JE T S TA R JAPA N H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O M I YA Z A K I FR O M N A R I TA I N T ER N AT IO N AL A IRP O R T.

JE T S TA R.C O M

Are Your Hormones Making You Fat? Imagine waking up every morning to the sound of your alarm, excited and happy to be starting a new day. When you look in the mirror you admire your body. Everyone tells you how great you’re looking. Sound too good to be true? If you, like many other women, don’t feel this way, you may have a hormonal imbalance. Research has documented that over 40 per cent of women have an undiagnosed underactive thyroid gland. If you feel tired all the time, crave sugar, use alcohol and coffee to lift yourself, retain weight around your middle and feel the cold, you could be suffering from this problem. What Does Your Thyroid Do, and What Does This Mean For You? The thyroid gland is the major player in controlling how many calories you burn. It produces hormones that control the body’s metabolism. If your thyroid is underactive (hypothyroidism) it’s almost impossible to lose that spare tyre around your middle, no matter how many carbs you cut out or how many hours you spend on the treadmill. Blood Testing Current blood testing methods don’t tell the whole story. Blood tests (TSH) can only measure how much thyroid hormone you have in your blood – they can’t measure how well your hormones are working. So, if you do have a thyroid problem, it may not always be picked up. New Way of Testing American thyroid specialists, Dr. Konrad Kail and Dr. Daryl Turner have developed a quick and non-invasive medical thyroid screening test, that’s been used by US doctors for the past ten years to accurately diagnose thyroid issues. The good news is, once your thyroid function is accurately diagnosed, the medication and nutrients you need to get your thyroid balanced can be established. With a balanced thyroid your energy will increase, you will lose weight easily, and you’ll feel happier in yourself. Your health is your greatest asset, so, if you suspect that your thyroid isn’t quite right, don’t put off getting tested, you deserve to feel fantastic every day.

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2018: a space odyssey FA MILY H OL IDAY

—Cousin to Europe’s famous Northern Lights, the elusive aurora australis dances in the sky right here in our own backyard. Tracey Withers takes her family to southern Tasmania in search of the natural wonder—

TA S M A NI A

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have been told we might hear the lights before we see them. When beams arc through the black sky, coalescing into coloured curtains in a humbling display of splendour, watchers are said to cry out in thrilled wonder. It’s one of the most spectacular natural phenomena our world can witness. And on this kind of night – clear, still, a slim crescent moon – aurora chasers will be out here, waiting in the dark. I’m nowhere near Norway, the country tourists ususally flock to in winter to catch sight of aurora borealis – the bright, dancing colours in the sky known as the Northern Lights. I’m on a crescent of beach at Ninepin Point Marine Nature Reserve, about 58 kilometres south of Hobart on the edge of the Huon Valley. I got the hot tip from a chaser I met in a café today (ask around: everybody in these parts has a lights story). By night, this foodie paradise is “bloody amazing” for watching the aurora and from this beach, you can see it float over Bruny Island in the distance. I’ve had a bee in my bonnet about catching the Southern Lights (aurora australis) ever since a time-lapse photo of electric green sky ripples showed up on my Instagram feed a year ago. Assuming it was someone ticking their bucket list on a trip to see the Northern Lights, I was shocked to see the post was tagged to Tassie. Who knew? The Southern Hemisphere has its own lights and, as Margaret Sonnemann, author of The Aurora Chaser’s Handbook (Tasmania Wingfold Press, $34.95), has told me, our island state

T HE SWINGING BRID GE AT TAH U NE ADVEN T URES

– close to the South Magnetic Pole the lights are drawn to – is one of the best possible places to see them. “It’s this incredible birthright of Australians, yet astonishingly few people realise it’s right here,” she said. So I’ve flown from Sydney with my family – partner David and toddler Benji – on a mission. We’ve been huddled under a blanket on the sand for an hour when David asks: “What is an aurora, anyway?” Finally – I’ve been busting to show off my (simplified) science. An aurora flares when electrically charged particles, flung out by the boiling sun, slam into the earth’s magnetic field and rush towards the poles. As the solar particles hit our atmosphere, they collide with atoms of nitrogen and oxygen and charge their electrons, leaving excited ions to radiate energy in wavelengths we see as a dance of purple, yellow and green light. David nods, agreeing geomagnetics is a gorgeous and graceful thing. “So, ah, when’s it going to happen?” he asks. I’ve been obsessing over space weather maps and graphs on my smartphone for weeks. The Bureau of Meteorology (BOM) makes it easiest, measuring indices locally to update its aurora page (sws.bom.gov.au/Aurora) every 15 minutes. Margaret runs Facebook groups Aurora Australis Tasmania and Aurora Australis Tasmania Alert Now, where chasers

TA S M A NI A

>SKY-WATCHING WITH KIDS.

T HE SO U T HERN L IG H TS OVER BE TSEY ISL AND, TASMANIA

Keep the little ones ready for the chase with these kid-friendly activities.

“AUR OR AE ARE FICKLE T HIN G S. T HE Y C O UL D GLO W F OR SE VEN MIN U TES OR SE VEN H O URS, A NY T IME BE T WEEN DARK A N D DAYBRE AK.”

W O RDPL AY The word aurora is derived from the Latin word for sunrise or the Roman goddess of dawn.

talk tactics and declare things like “She’s dancing!” when a lightshow starts. It’s a fun job for kids – checking notices and yelling when to get in the car and go, go, go. Right now, the signs are good. But so far, tonight has been silent. “Aurorae are fickle things,” explains Margaret, who’s been chasing since 1997. They could glow for seven minutes or seven hours, any time between dark and daybreak. Have we missed it? Is it coming at all? “You just never know for sure, and every aurora is completely different,” she says. An aurora makes you earn it. So I want it even more. But now my woollen beanie has started to itch, and the toddler, who was sleeping heavily on my lap, has wriggled awake. Just when I think he’s going to crack it, he points up. “What’s that?” he says. Gasp! It’s not the aurora. But it is the Jewel Box, Southern Cross and Milky Way, brighter than our city-kid eyes have ever seen. “That’s space,” I explain, every bit as mesmerised. No aurora tonight but I’ll take this as a win. Plus, there’s always tomorrow night. Until then, we eat.

01. A U R O R A

A U DIO Take Elsa, Anna and Kristoff on the hunt with the Frozen Northern Lights: Journey to the Lights audiobook, available on Google Play.

02. P H O T O

S N AP Encourage teens to put their photography skills to use with student and amateur competitions like the Cochlear Aurora Photo Contest (flinders.edu.au).

03. B O O K

UP Read A Child’s Introduction to the Night Sky by Michael Driscoll (Black Dog and Leventhal, $29.99) to find out what’s up there.

04. S TA R

T R ACK ER S Download apps like Night Sky (iOS) or SkyView (Android) to discover the stars twinkling above.

05. NIG H T

SPY Search the darkness for nocturnal creatures with a pair of LED night vision goggles. You never know what you might find.

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But enough wandering. As dusk approaches, the aurora hunt is back on. Any spot with no light pollution and an unobstructed view south is a good one. From Ida Bay we could track back to one of Margaret’s favourite vantage points – the yacht club at Port Huon. But we’re only about 20 kilometres from the end of the southernmost road in Australia and I’ve heard viewing there is unreal. We’re here for adventure… Onward to Cockle Creek! “There’s nothing much down there,” warns Meg Thornton from the railway. She hand-draws us a map just in case our phones conk out and tells us the last pub in all the land is in Southport, “back thattaway”. It’s okay, though – tonight we have provisions. We’ve got farm-fresh fruit, woodfired bread and Lego for Benji to build under our headlamps. With David as designated driver, I’ve also got small-batch apple brandy – found at the Charles Oates distillery attached to Willie Smith’s Apple Shed in Grove (williesmiths.com.au) – to spike my thermos of hot chocolate. Head distiller Tim Jones sanctioned this entirely. Aged in old muscat barrels, his Fine Apple Brandy’s notes of cocoa, vanilla bean and spice will give it “a lovely fruitcake character”, he said. “Just make the chocolate sweet and add a stick of cinnamon – it’s a high-end spirit.”

A D OLO MI TE CAVE AT HASTINGS CAVES STATE RESERVE

P ORT CYG NE T

From Hobart, you can drive to the Huon Valley in about 30 minutes. But I don’t recommend you do. Instead, we wound down the coastal highway with the D'Entrecasteaux Channel to our left and little farms and pinot noir vineyards huddling up against a bushy mountain range to our right. Between the pretty town of Woodbridge and charmingly named community of the Flowerpot, there are plenty of gems to uncover. At Grandvewe Cheeses (grandvewe.com.au) kids can watch sheep-milking demonstrations while grown-ups discover the pure joy of soft brebichon and award-winning Hartshorn gin made from sheep whey in the house microdistillery. At Five Bob Café and Art Farm (fivebobcafe.com), take your coffee on a ramble through the kitchen garden of native food plants or up the 1.2 kilometre sculpture trail exhibiting works from Australian artists. When you cross into the Huon Valley, you’re in salmon, apple cider and fresh berry country. Follow the roadside honesty stalls to the township of Cygnet, an epicentre for local produce. Stop at the restored Victorian-era Old Bank (cygnetoldbank.com.au) café on the main street for the daily fish special at lunch. This is a family trip, so after brunch on day two in the Huon Valley, we follow the photogenic Huon River south. There’s action down here for kids. Outside Geeveston, Tahune Adventures (tahuneadventures.com.au) fires up adrenalin with cable-controlled hang gliders and an AirWalk platform that skim the tops of World Heritage forest. Further on at Hastings Caves State Reserve (parks.tas.gov.au), explore dolomite caves and thermal spring pools that are 28°C year-round. Our toddler is a train guy so we go chugging through rugged bushland and pristine bays on the historic Ida Bay Railway (idabayrailway.com.au) instead. He loves it.

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> FIVE TIPS FOR A TROPHY PHOTO. Hobart photographer and tour guide Luke O’Brien (lukeobrien.com.au) runs workshops that focus on night photography. He says with a tripod, a basic DSLR camera and starter’s kit lens, anyone can catch the lights.

01. S W I T C H

“TO NIG H T WE H AVE PR OV ISIO NS. WE'VE G OT FARM-FRESH FRUI T, W O O DFIRED BRE A D... I'VE ALS O G OT APPLE BR A N DY TO SPIKE M Y T HERM O S.”

It’s the convicts’ Van Diemen’s Land down here with beautiful wilderness, rugged coves and the odd tiny cluster of houses. The potholes in the dirt road are punishing. I’m almost disappointed to find that the Cockle Creek lookout, where a bronze whale sculpture points roughly at Antarctica, is an easy five-minute stroll from the car and hospitably level for the camera tripod. Aurora chasing is, you see, a photographer’s game. Naked eyes can detect some colour, but you need a lens, high ISO, wide aperture and slow shutter speed to capture the full spectrum in its vibrant glory. Darkness drops fast and we’re still faffing about with the camera settings when – holy smokes! There she is. First a greenish shimmer, then an airglow, then swaying like a slow searchlight. Or an extraterrestrial visitation, which I guess it is. We’re supposed to scream, but we’re struck speechless. I can understand why some people describe seeing aurorae as spiritual – it seems impossible something so magnificent isn’t a sign of, well, something. We almost forget to click and look at the back of the camera, where chartreuse intensifies to almost emerald. She’s not massive but she’s magic – and then she’s gone. We’ve taken the bait, Aurora. We’ll be back. JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O TA S M A N I A.

TO M A N U AL M O DE Increase your camera’s ISO to 1600 or 3200, making it more sensitive to light. Open your aperture as wide as it will go and test shoot at any shutter speed up to 30 seconds, then adjust. A brighter aurora needs a lower ISO and faster shutter, while dimmer glows need a higher ISO and slower shutter speed.

02. D O D G E V IE W P OIN T You can also see the southern lights from New Zealand’s Stewart Island, which is also called Rakiura, meaning “glowing skies” in Maori.

THE MOON Full moons wash aurorae out. “I schedule workshops to new moons,” Luke says. “You get a pure shot of subtle colours and beams.”

03. A RR I V E BEF O RE S U N SE T Tasmanian wilderness can be rugged, so know where to put your feet.

04. D O N ’ T

L IG H T-B O M B O T H ER C H A SER S Stray shine from your phone or headlamp could blow someone else’s shot. Be mindful and consider other photographers around you.

05. S H O O T

JE T S TA R.C O M

O V ER W AT ER When reflection fills the foreground, your photos won’t be dark. If the water is choppy or you’re shooting across land, find a tree to add a point of interest.

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UBUD START-UP CENTRAL “Silicon Bali” has become something of a magnet for digital nomads, with Ubud as a central location. Hubud (hubud.org) is the town’s original and best known co-working hub, welcoming 25 members in its first few months. Five years on, their multi-use, treehouse-like space can host up to 100 workers a day – and the youngest is only 11 years old.

MEMORIES Goa Gajah, known as the Elephant Cave, dates back to the 11th century. From the outside, the wide-open mouth of an elaborately carved giant face serves as the entrance to the shrine. Inside the complex, statues of sacred Hindu figures pour water into a reflection pool, inspiring quiet meditation. Arrive early or it may not be so quiet.

—The art capital of Bali boasts ancient temples, majestic rice paddies and yummy vegan dining. But as Helen Martin discovers, there’s even more to be charmed by in this captivating town – including some very cheeky monkeys—

CL ASS ACT Green School (greenschool. org) is an innovative and private campus set up by jewellers John and Cynthia Hardy, about 50 minutes from Ubud. With a focus on hands-on problemsolving and sustainability, the school has garnered attention from across the globe. Last year, Beastie Boys’ Mike D, who enrolled his kids at the school, gave the keynote address to the graduating class. And yes, shoes are optional.

INFINIT Y AND BEYOND Dreaming of an infinity pool with views over lush valleys? Ubud is your place. While it can be pricey to stay at the luxury hotels, you can pay just 250,000 rupiah (about $23) for a day pass to swim at the Royal Pita Maha (royalpitamaha-bali.com), with a drink included. Waiter!

HEALTH FIRST Wellness tourism is flourishing in Bali and Ubud is the industry’s heart. The Yoga Barn (theyogabarn.com) is by far the island’s biggest yoga studio and healing retreat, running more than 15 classes and workshops every day.

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MONKEY MAGIC About 600 macaques live in the Ubud Monkey Forest (monkeyforestubud.com) and its old temples. The area has a cool Indiana Jones vibe… but keep your Indy wits about you – they’re cheeky monkeys!

FEEL THIS Nurture your mind, body and soul and stroll through Ubud’s markets Julia Roberts-style to seek out a healer – they outnumber doctors four to one in Bali. While you can’t meet healer Ketut Liyer from 2010 film Eat Pray Love – sadly, he died in 2016 aged 100 – you can visit his son, Nyoman Latra, who has taken over his father’s role as medicine man.

HEAV Y METAL Perched high in a temple just outside Ubud is the world’s largest single-cast bronze kettledrum, the 1.87-metre Moon of Pejeng. Witness to more than 2000 years of history, it’s one of the biggest known relics of the South-East Asian Bronze Age and is respectfully cared for by locals.

—Turn the classic Aussie beach holiday up a notch. Just add riotous adventure, over-the-top fun and picture-perfect indulgence—

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> BES T FOR ADVEN T URE

1. Head to Queensland’s Moreton

Island, 85 kilometres north-east of Brisbane’s CBD, to handfeed a wild dolphin. Out the front of Tangalooma Island Resort, you can line up near the jetty as the sun sets to slip a fish straight into the mouth of a bottlenose dolphin. Rangers control the dolphin interactions – it’s a brief but beautiful encounter. tangalooma.com

2. Why swim in water when you

can fly above it? Jetpacking is the latest extreme water sport to hit Queensland’s Sunshine Coast. If being propelled up to 15 metres skywards by high-pressure water jets sounds like your kind of adventure, then a flyboard flight could be the perfect adrenaline fix. The flyboard is similar to the jetpack but involves your feet being strapped onto a board, rather than wearing a harness, and requires a bit more balancing ability. Both activities are available at the Novotel Twin Waters Resort. jetpackadventures.com.au; novoteltwinwatersresort.com.au

W HITEH AVEN BEAC H, Q UEENSL A ND

3. Whitehaven Beach is one of

the top contenders for the title of having the world’s whitest sand (Hyams Beach in Jervis Bay, south of Sydney, is also in the running). Judge for yourself: take a squiz at the dazzling-white seven-kilometre strip on a daytrip to Whitsunday Island, the largest of the archipelago’s 74 jungle-clad islands off the Queensland coast. There are plenty of tours from Airlie Beach and Hamilton Island – check that the operator includes snorkelling time so you can cruise with the turtles that graze the seagrass meadows. cruisewhitsundays.com

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4. Climb aboard a quad bike and

roar over the moonscape of the Stockton Bight Sand Dunes between Newcastle and Port Stephens in the Hunter region of NSW. This high-adrenaline tour of the Southern Hemisphere’s largest moving sand dunes also incorporates aspects of Indigenous culture such as bush tucker and visits to midden sites. It is organised by Sand Dune Adventures, a not-for-profit enterprise from the Worimi Local Aboriginal Land Council. sandduneadventures.com.au

> BES T FOR T HEME PARKS

5. Warner Bros Movie World

combines all the glitz of Hollywood with the rush of speedy roller-coasters, stunt shows and more in Queensland. Those who prefer more mild thrills can catch the daily parade of superheroes and supervillains. movieworld.com.au

6. Family holidays at Sea World

Gold Coast are an Australian rite of passage. These days, you can enjoy hours of adventure in the Castaway Bay interactive playground or heart-pumping rides such as the Jet Rescue Coaster – a jetski roller-coaster where you zoom off to rescue a trapped sea lion. Slow the pace and spot all sorts of sea life with a glass-bottom boat ride over shark lagoon. seaworld.com.au

“T HERE’S N O BE T TER WAY TO EXPLORE T HE NSW N ORT H C OAST T H A N K AYAK IN G W I T H D OLPHINS.”

> BES T FOR EATS A ND FEAS TS

8. Never heard of octopus tacos?

Head to the Whitsundays and straight to Hamilton Island’s Tako, a taqueria that’s putting an Asian twist on Mexican dishes. The name doesn’t only reflect the fusion of culinary influences – tako also means octopus in Japanese. The signature dish, Tako Taco, is two soft corn tortillas stuffed with octopus, sticky pork, nopal cactus and pico de gallo. Tako is in the Marina Village – a short golf-cart run from the strip of golden sand fronting Catseye Beach. hamiltonisland.com.au

7. A new arrival on the Gold Coast’s

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9. Did someone say bucket of

N O O SA HEADS, Q UEENSL A ND

theme park scene, Holoverse is the world’s first interactive hologram centre, located at Southport. After donning a headset, 3D glasses and a holster containing a hand-held sensor, enter one of the 40 rooms to jump down holes, walk through walls, play with shimmering fish or battle monsters on an alien planet. holoverse.com.au

prawns? Overlooking Noosa’s small but perfectly formed waves on Queensland’s Sunshine Coast is the Noosa Heads Surf Life Saving Club. End your beach day with an absolutely fabulous feast by taking a seat on the deck and ordering an iced bucket of Mooloolaba king prawns with cocktail sauce. If this isn’t Aussie enough for you, find the kids something to eat from the Nippers Tucker menu. noosasurfclub.com.au

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> BES T FOR FA MIL IES BIK IN G AR O U ND R OT T NES T ISL A ND, WA

10. Gather the flock and go

searching for quokkas on Rottnest Island, now Insta-famous thanks to these friendly creatures that call it home. A Dutch explorer named the spot Rats’ Nest Island after mistaking these cute macropods for large rats. A 25-minute ferry ride from Fremantle, Western Australia, Rottnest Island is ideal for a daytrip – you can go for a retro bike ride around the island or join the free daily quokka walk. If you want to stay a bit longer to snorkel in The Basin or splash around in the calm waters of Thomson Bay, check in to the historic Hotel Rottnest, where the Governor of WA would once spend summers. rottnestisland.com; hotelrottnest.com.au

11. How does a beach break with

a side of mud crab stalking sound? In tropical North Queensland, the whole family can pick up a bamboo spear and have a go at hunting in the traditional way with Indigenous tour guide Juan Walker. The Kuku Yalanji man collects groups from locations including Port Douglas and Mossman and takes them to Cooya Beach, just north of Port Douglas, for a lesson in living off the land. After the hunt, the spoils are transformed into a home-cooked lunch. walkaboutadventures.com.au

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Q U OKK AS O N R OT T NES T ISL A ND, WA

12. There’s no better way to

explore the NSW North Coast than by kayaking with dolphins in Byron Bay’s beautiful Cape Byron Marine Park. Anyone aged five or older can participate in the surf lifesaver-guided kayak tours to Australia’s most easterly point, where you can spot wild bottlenose dolphins, majestic humpback whales and sea turtles in a non-intrusive manner. Nuggets of local history and marine biology are peppered throughout the tour and the intrepid can get a surfing 101 lesson from the guide on the way back. goseakayakbyronbay.com.au.

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> BES T FOR IND ULGEN CE

14. Manly in Sydney, NSW, may

W O R D S_ K AT R I N A L O BL E Y

be famous for its surf scene but it’s also home to harbour beaches that provide unexpected big-city serenity. One of the best ways to enjoy these tiny beaches is with an early-morning kayak followed by a yoga class on the sand. Flow mOcean also offer stand-up paddleboard (SUP) yoga. flowmocean.com.au

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> BES T FOR SELFIES

Swimming in northern

15. One of Victoria’s most unusual

Australia’s oceans in summer is usually

attractions is the 82 bathing boxes resembling liquorice allsorts lining Melbourne’s Brighton Beach. Built more than a century ago, the neat row of little huts feature weatherboards, corrugated iron roofs and diverse paintjobs, making them perfect for colourful holiday photos. brightonbathingbox.org.au

a no-no because of marine stingers. Darwin has found a way around this by building a free recreational lagoon with beach nets. The vibrant Darwin Waterfront precinct also has a wave lagoon

16. Redcliffe, a bayside city between

generating 10 different wave patterns.

Brisbane and the Sunshine Coast, where the musical Gibb brothers spent their formative years, is now home to the Bee Gees Way. Stroll the passageway, which is more like an outdoor multimedia museum bookended with a view of glittering Moreton Bay, while singing along to the band’s hits. visitmoretonbayregion.com.au

waterfront.nt.gov.au

BRIG H TO N BEAC H, VIC TORIA

crashing waves sounds like your ultimate beach break, pack your clubs and head to Barnbougle – ranked one of the world’s top 100 golf courses. Located a 90-minute drive from Launceston airport in Tasmania, Barnbougle comprises two astonishing coastal courses – The Dunes and the steeper, more dramatic Lost Farm – that emulate the traditional links courses of Scotland and Ireland. At The Dunes, try to avoid landing your shot in the infamous bunker known as Jaws – the largest in the Southern Hemisphere. For a luxe overnight stay, tootle back to Launceston to bunk down in the former ballroom of Hatherley House, a grand 1830s home that’s been given an ultra-modern makeover. barnbougle.com.au; hatherley.com.au

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13. If golfing with a backdrop of

ON THE ESPLANADE IN CAIRNS * Food Court open from 10am * for the best priced food in town * Night Markets Open from (4:30pm to 11pm) * Car parking upstairs above Night Markets $1.00 per hr * Approximately 2.5 million people visit the Cairns NightMarkets each year * Come and see an amazing mix of 70 retail market stalls offering everything from a massage, haircut or delicious Chinese self-serve food * Tour groups welcome

The Famous Cairns Night Markets & Food Court. Open 7 days a week

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the cut > THE BEST OF WHERE TO EAT, DRINK AND PL AY

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> All that sunshine and water is working – this year Sydney was ranked fifth most liveable city in the world.

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> Ramen, beer, underwear – you can buy almost anything from Japan’s five million-plus vending machines.

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> They might be known as Hawaiian shirts around the world but locally this fashion icon is called an “aloha” shirt.

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—Australia’s most recognisable city doesn’t just look good, it tastes good, too. Get set to (over) indulge as Emily Lloyd-Tait reveals where to dig in for brunch, lunch and dinner—

L ANK AN FILL ING STATIO N

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best So you’ve heard of the Florentine specialty of big, juicy T-bone steaks cooked rare? Well, you can sink your teeth into one at a new CBD restaurant that’s devoted to bistecca alla Fiorentina. You choose the size of your cut (they charge per 100 grams), then it’s cooked to your liking and served with classic sides like rocket salad and white beans. bistecca.com.au

> A1 CANTEEN.

Q UEEN CH OW

This new all-day dining operation is owned by chef Clayton Wells (he also owns Automata across the street). Clayton is branching out from the top end of town with a slick, egalitarian approach to eating out in Chippendale. At A1 Canteen, you can start the day with a takeaway coffee, grab a sandwich for lunch on the run or enjoy a proper boozy brunch on weekends. If you’re dining in the AM, go for the curried scrambled eggs on English muffins but at night, the torched bonito is the must-order. a1canteen.com.au

new restaurants > QUEEN CHOW. Fish and chips might be what you think of when eating out in Manly, but there’s a new player in town and she’s serving perfectly formed steamed dumplings, mud crabs and pippies in XO sauce. Queen Chow is the waterfront iteration of Merivale’s original Enmore restaurant and the new regent of classy Cantonese food on the Northern Beaches. merivale.com/queenchowmanly

> QUAY. It’s the most hyped reopening of the year (OK, it’s not new but it’s close). The legendary fine-diner from Peter Gilmore at the Overseas Passenger Terminal in The Rocks has had a $4-million makeover. The revamp has ensured Quay a spot on your dining wish list – so start saving your pennies. Replacing the iconic snow egg dessert is an intricate white chocolate, feijoa and coconut sweet, resembling fragile coral that you get to smash at the table. quay.com.au

> LANKAN FILLING STATION. We’ve been waiting very patiently for star Sydney chef O Tama Carey to open her casual Sri Lankan hopper restaurant in east Sydney. Think of hoppers like a kind of a crepe, made from fermented rice flour and coconut milk. You can get them plain, with an egg in the centre, or in a lacy version called string hoppers. Use pieces to scoop up curry and sambal, and wash it down with a classic Indian subcontinent refresher, falooda, which is essentially a rose syrup milkshake to cool down that chilli burn. lankanfillingstation.com.au

A QUICK DETOUR Stop by Lane Cove’s newest hotspot, The Alcott, and perch at their dedicated Spritz Bar. thealcott.com.au

BISTEC CA

> BISTECCA.

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B O NDI BEACH PUBL IC BAR

> 4 PINES BREWPUB. Whether you’ve just finished the Spit to Manly walk or stepped straight from a surf, this relaxed pub/brewery on the harbour side of Manly is perfect to refuel. There’s fresh fish and chips, classic pub pies or, on Sundays, roasts with all the trimmings for $25. Pair it with one of their locally-made beers, like the smashable kolsch. 4pinesbeer.com.au

> EAST VILLAGE SYDNEY. On a beautiful day, there are few better places to position yourself than on the rooftop of this Darlinghurst bar – the views of the city skyline are postcard perfect. This is where you can pretend you’re having a New York City summer over crab toast, sweet potato fries and calamari, accompanied by a Mango Margarita. If the weather isn’t playing ball, there’s always the old-world club vibes in the vintage sports-themed bar on the second level. eastvillagesydney.com.au

> THE UNION HOTEL, NEWTOWN. If you like craft beers, then this is the place to head. This Newtown mainstay is famous for its thoughtfully curated beer list – you might even find a stout made with real oysters – and for hosting regular tap takeovers by famous breweries. They also do a straight line in comforting, carby meals like a Reuben sandwich, a meatball sub and a cheeseburger that’ll sate a serious hunger. unionnewtown.com.au

pub eats BOTTOMS UP Coogee Bay Hotel is hosting the Craft Beer and Cider Fest from 6-7 October. coogeebayhotel.com.au

Across the road from Bondi Beach, this casual haunt is the place to go for people-watching, pizza and a few fancy cocktails. The bar is the low-key younger brother of Maurice Terzini’s famous Icebergs Dining Room and Bar up the street. This more accessible spot is where you can pop in for some fried chicken or a cheeseburger compressed on the grill to pack in all the flavour. bbpb.com.au

> THE LANSDOWNE. This refreshed pub in Chippendale has a killer band room showcasing local and international touring acts, a pizza menu straight out of the US (they do Detroit-style square pizza made in custom steel tins) and an Australian wine list. Did we mention they’re open until 3am for night owls looking for a drink and a boogie? thelansdownepub.com.au EAST VILL AGE SYDNEY

cool

> BONDI BEACH PUBLIC BAR.

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food with a view > THE POTAGER. Take a daytrip to this relaxed café in the Blue Mountains Botanic Garden at Mount Tomah, about 90 minutes west of Sydney. After you’ve ridden the Scenic Railway (the steepest passenger railway in the world), gone for a hike in the wilderness or explored the vintage shops in villages like Katoomba and Leura, head to the gardens for smashed avo, pancakes and slow cooked beans with jaw-dropping views into the valley. Just remember to bring a jacket – it gets chilly at this altitude. potagermounttomah.com.au

> COOGEE PAVILION. BERT’S

N O V E LT Y D I N I N G O Bar and Dining on the 47th floor of Australia Square revolves so you can see the skyline from every angle. obardining.com.au

There aren’t many places where you can sit on a rooftop with uninterrupted views across one of Sydney’s most popular beaches. Thanks to hospitality giant Merivale, the group responsible for some of Sydney’s most stylish pub upgrades in recent years, the Coogee Pavilion is now a summer hotspot. Come for the Mediterranean-influenced menu of octopus, spiced lamb and mini lobster rolls. Stay for the salty sea air in your lungs. merivale.com/coogeepavilion

> CHIOSCO BY ORMEGGIO. This is the casual arm of the famous Spit diner in Mosman, Ormeggio. Out on the breezy timber wharf, you can enjoy Italian-style seafood such as grilled split king prawns with chilli and lemon, while gleaming yachts bob in the marina beside you. If you’re going all-out, order a whole lamb shoulder for two. And to really live that high seas life, grab their boat catering menu for a sailing adventure. chiosco.com.au

> THE GLENMORE HOTEL. You would normally expect views from the Sydney Harbour Bridge across to the Sydney Opera House and city skyline to come with a serious price tag but not here. On the lantern-lit rooftop of The Rocks’ Glenmore Hotel, you get million-dollar views for the price of a pub steak. Or treat yourself to a cheese board and a jug of sangria. theglenmore.com.au

> BERT’S. It’s easy to imagine you’re living a Gatsby-esque life of leisure in this newly renovated luxurious Northern Beaches bar and brasserie. A little bit country club and a whole lot glam, there’s a big open kitchen plating up grilled lobster, spatchcock and a classic caesar salad with views out over Pittwater and the hills beyond. merivale.com/berts

SY D NE Y

laidback brunch > DARLO COUNTRY CLUB.

BILLS

For something a bit different to scrambled eggs and bacon, this Darlinghurst bar does a set menu for brunch from 11.30am on Saturdays, with six courses of share plates that include salmon gravlax and bagels. There’s also a roving cocktail trolley – time to embrace the morning Martini. Dress up but be warned: this is a very generous gastronomic offering so don’t wear anything too tight. You want to make it to the Nutella French toast, don’t you? darlocountryclub.com.au

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> DEAD RINGER. From 11am on weekends, head to this Surry Hills restaurant for a boozy brunch that raises the bar for morning dining (we’re talking slow-roasted chicken or a savoury ricotta tart with capsicum and olives). To taste a bit of everything, opt for the $39 six-course set menu. Add bottomless mimosas for an extra $30 per person. deadringer.wtf

> BILLS. There’s a reason this is a Sydney brunching institution – no-one does a quintessential brunch better than Bills. With locations in Bondi, Darlinghurst and Surry Hills, you have no excuse not to get your hands sticky with the ricotta hotcakes, fill up on corn fritters and coconut bread or toss back a Bloody Mary. bills.com.au

NOT AFTER EGGS? Sydney is a yum cha town – fill your morning with dumplings at Palace Chinese Restaurant. palacechinese.com.au

JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O SY D N E Y FR O M A R O U N D A U S T R AL I A.

> ONA. This Canberran coffee roaster has set up a café in Marrickville where seven grinders ensure the perfect blend for your milk, black or pour-over coffee. They also sell Short Stop doughnuts (try the gingerbread and sticky date), a rye waffle with orange mascarpone and drool-worthy toasties. onacoffee.com.au

> HARRY’S BONDI. They run a tight ship at this beach café. Service is swift and people are seated in record time for such a popular spot. Breakfast walks a fine line between healthy (chilled quinoa porridge) and delicious (blueberry ricotta hotcake). If you want a treat, order an artisan icy pole for dessert. harrysbondi.com.au JE T S TA R.C O M

Connect with NatureÂ®

CERTIFIED VEGAN

CERTIFIED ORGANIC

CERTIFIED VEGETARIAN

New Zealand DISCOVER YOURS AT: David Jones, Priceline, Chemist Warehouse, National Pharmacies, selected Myer and Malouf Pharmacies, Great Earth stores and Adorebeauty.com.au, independent pharmacies and health stores nationwide.

M Y PL ACE

Canggu, Bali —What can you learn from a yoga instructor? Local yogi Rachel Fearnley tells us that in today’s frantic world, it’s important to slow down, keep it simple and just breathe—

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H OL IDAY YO G A.

Describe your average day? > I wake up early with my [eightmonth-old] daughter, Yemaja Saige, and do my morning meditation, breathing and Ayurvedic rituals. Then we go for breakfast, to the gym, yoga or pilates and back home to work on The Pineapple House (pineapplehousebali.com) or my job as a mentor. In the afternoons, I teach or coach. We catch sunset and sip on coconut water at Berawa Beach, where there is a collection of local shacks – The Naked Coconut (fb.me/thecoconutberawa) is great. The evenings are simple. Yemaja goes to bed and I have dinner, read, meditate or study. What are the three best things about your work? > I can work from anywhere. I run my own schedule and witness people making positive changes in their lives. Are there any misconceptions that people have about yoga in Bali? > Yes – that it’s really advanced. Bali caters well for all levels of yoga practice.

How has yoga transformed your life? > Before I became a yoga teacher, I used to be a professional sailor. Like many, I had a lifestyle that looked good on the outside but wasn’t great inside – it had a dark side. Yoga was my way out. I’m now able to see joy in the small, everyday things. What are people looking for when they come to Bali for a yoga retreat? > People are often at a massive crossroads in their life and seeking answers. Or they are stressed and are just looking for some rest. What should they be prepared to do to achieve their goals? > Come with an open mind and a willingness to learn, plus the dedication and motivation to put their learning into practice. Can you tell us about your favourite wellness spots in Bali? > The Practice (thepracticebali. com) for yoga, Nirvana Strength (nirvanastrengthbali.com) for functional fitness and The Canggu Studio (thecanggustudio.com) for pilates. What are your top five local cafés for healthy food? > Copenhagen (copenhagenrestaurant.business.site) is great for breakfast, Parachute (parachutebali. com) has a vegetable patch, Matcha Café (matchacafebali.com) serves everything matcha, Joshua District (joshuadistrict.com) overlooks the open rice fields and I love Give Café (givecafe.org) – it donates all of its profits to those who need it the most. What dish should everyone try? > The nasi campur at Oma Jamu (fb.me/omajamu), a vegan café in Canggu. Nasi campur is like the Bali version of [Spanish] tapas, where you choose from lots of different dishes on display. My favourites are spiced pumpkin curry, baked eggplant, crispy tempeh and sweet corn cakes.

Add some zen to your next getaway with these easy, on-the-go poses.

SIMPLE CROSS-LEGGED SEAT Great to open up the hips after a flight. Sit cross-legged with your knees and hips relaxed and your spine tall.

BRIDGE POSE Lie on your back, bend your knees and have your feet flat on the floor so your ankles are under your knees. Keep your arms along your sides and gently lift your hips off the floor. You can support yourself with your arms.

3 CHAIR POSE Bend your knees as though sitting back on a chair. Keep your chest lifted and your arms above your head.

ILL U S T R AT IO N S_ S O N N Y R A M IRE Z

estled among the rice fields and volcanoes of south-west Bali is the coastal village of Canggu, where Rachel Fearnley teaches busy folk how to stress less and improve their wellbeing. The mum of one and founder of yoga and surf retreat The Pineapple House loves the relaxed pace of Bali life. Here, she shows us around her corner of the island.

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WORDS_ KIRSTY MUNRO

IMAGE_ JAMIE FORSON

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HAPPY —Whether you prefer a luxury hotel with views over Tokyo’s glittering skyline or a cosy dive bar decked out with paper lanterns, here’s where to get the best happy hour deals in Japan’s capital—

G RE AT V IE W S

PE TER: T HE BAR

> At the top of The Peninsula Tokyo hotel, the sleek gold and chrome décor of the bar competes with the city views. You’ll feel like a celebrity up here but from 5-8pm on Sunday through to Thursday, the prices are a bit more down-to-earth – all drinks are about $9. Try the signature Tokyo Joe, a potent blend of plum liqueur, gin, Drambuie and cranberry juice. Afterwards, head to “yakitori alley” – a hundred-metre stretch of tiny restaurants located under the train tracks nearby – and end your night dining on smoky yakitori skewers (Japan’s delicious take on fast food). peninsula.com

M O V IE M A GIC

T HE PEAK BAR > Settle into the bamboo grove on the 41st floor of the Park Hyatt, forever known as the Lost In Translation hotel. With views across the twinkling towers of Shinjuku and out to Mount Fuji, happy hour, or “Twilight Time”, at The Peak Bar is a must. From 5-8pm nightly, enjoy free-flowing drinks and canapés for about $58 per person. Try the Bamboo Adventure, watermelon juice and matcha tea spiked with rum, it might just help you work out what Bill Murray whispered at the end of the 2003 film. tokyo.park.hyatt.com

C R AF T B RE W S

> With 40 microbrews on tap, plus a great selection of Japanese and American craft beers, you’re sure to find a new favourite in this relaxed bar. With its bare interior, Goodbeer Faucets focuses entirely on the crisp, refreshing draught beers – including Baird Beer from Shizuoka and Atsugi Beer from Kanagawa – that spill from the glistening taps. Happy hour runs from 4-8pm, Monday to Thursday and 3-8pm Sunday, with about $2.50 off pints. Don’t miss the house GBF Gyaru Blond, named for the Shibuya neighbourhood’s famously outrageous fashionistas. shibuya.goodbeerfaucets.jp

T HE PEAK BAR

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SP O R T S B A R

BEER SAUR U S

> After a day exploring northern Tokyo, soak up the moody Jurassic Park-style atmosphere with the locals at Beer Saurus. Watch some baseball on the big screen and toast the dinosaur figures plastered on the wall and scattered around the bar. Dinosaurs and beer – what could go wrong? There’s a rotating selection of Japanese and American craft brews on tap, which are half-price during happy hour, every day from 5-7pm. Food at this student hangout in the Ikebukuro neighbourhood is above average for pub grub, ranging from oysters to kangaroo steak, plus a few vegetarian options. beersaurus.net/ikeb

K UR A ND SAKE M ARKE T

W I N E O’CL O C K

SAKE TIME

M AR U G O

K UR A ND SAKE M ARKE T

> This chic wine bar near Tokyo Station has two very attractive features – over 600 French wines by the glass and one of the city’s earliest happy hours, running from 2-6pm daily. Sip on a glass of red or white and enjoy small plates for about $6 each as you lounge in Marugo’s leafy courtyard. There are also wine tastings of two or three selected wines starting at about $12. If you needed any more reason to stop in, the bar is next to the famed French Echire butter shop (echire-shop.jp), and the French art-filled Mitsubishi Ichigokan Museum (mimt.jp). marugo-s.com

L O C AL V IBES

DIZZ

> West of Shinjuku, the Koenji district is a maze of narrow streets, lined with cool little bars and restaurants. Paper lantern-festooned Dizz, close to Koenji Station, is a local favourite. Happy hour runs from 5-7pm on weekdays, with discounted sets starting at $12 for an appetiser, drink and three yakitori skewers served with rich miso sauce – it’s a house speciality. Don’t be surprised if you end the night with 20 new friends! fb.me/dizz.happy

S T REE T S M A R T

DIZZ

6T H BY ORIEN TAL H OTEL

> Named for its location six streets from Tokyo Station, 6th by Oriental Hotel offers street-side dining – a rarity in Tokyo. Located in the moneyed Marunouchi district, this lively bistro is decorated with sailing paraphernalia in a nod to the original Oriental Hotel (orientalhotel.jp) in the port town of Kobe. From 5.30-7.30pm on weekdays, enjoy drinks and small plates with an Italian twist for about $6 each. Try one of the more offbeat cocktails such as the Earl Grey Cosmopolitan. 6thbyorientalhotel.com

Every hour is happy hour in Ueno. For about $39, you can drink as much sake as you want, for as long as you want – or can handle – at Kurand Sake Market. With more than 100 varieties of sake on offer and industrial-sized refrigerators stocked and ready to go, there’s a good chance you’ll be headed for a serious hangover. To remind patrons to keep hydrated, there’s a call for water every hour. Plus, they encourage you to bring your own food so load up on snacks! If the idea of limitless sake is a bit much, they have lighter offers. About $12 will buy you 30 minutes of sake-sampling fun, while $24 gets you 90 minutes. kurand.jp/sakemarket

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T HE C U T

S TREE T S T YLE

POHO, SHEUNG HONG WAN KONG URBAN + ECLECTIC

—A 20-minute walk from Hong Kong’s CBD, this hip neighbourhood is a vibrant mix of indie and designer boutiques and a popular haunt for the chic set—

THE ESSENTIALS.

SNEAKERS Make your off-duty pop with a pair of crisp, white kicks. (Veja ‘Esplar’ sneakers, $155, theiconic.com.au)

< THE LOOK > THE POHO HIPSTER OOZES URBAN COOL WITH AN ATHLEISURE-INSPIRED AESTHETIC. EMBRACE HIGH-LOW DRESSING WITH STREETWEAR, VINTAGE AND DESIGNER ACCENTS. THE ONLY STYLE RULE IS: THERE ARE NO RULES.

WHITE SHIRT FOR HIM The perfect crew neck will take you from day to night. (Staple Superior T-shirt, $29.95, theiconic.com.au)

> HIPSTER 9. Uncover a smorgasbord of pre-loved gems like designer jewellery and vintage dresses in this tiny fashion treasure-trove. fb.me/hipster9hk

> GRANA. This Hong Kong start-up brand offers modern classics with clean silhouettes made using fabrics sourced from around the world – at accessible prices. grana.com

IMAGES_ SOPHIA KWAN

> INBETWEEN. Head to this cornucopia of retro goodness to pick up everything from vintage cufflinks and coffee cups to Artphere backpacks and old movie posters. fb.me/inbetweenshop

> JUNE WOONAMY. Artisanal tailoring combines with edgy cuts at this bespoke boutique – it’s the place to go for one-off pieces. woonamy.com

> KHROMIS. No self-respecting hipster wants to be caught without a pair of on-trend glasses and sunnies. Come for the eyewear and be wowed by the store’s interior. khromis.com

MUM JEANS A little retro, a lot cool. Rock “mum” jeans like it’s 1989. (Lee ‘High Mom’ Jeans, $169.95, generalpants.com)

> SQUARESTREET. Take your pick from the collection of elegant and contemporary women’s and men’s watches with a distinct Scandi touch. squarestreet.se

SLOGAN SHIRT Band tees are back. The more nostalgic, the better. (‘1999 Ricky Martin’ T-shirt, $55, retrostar.com.au)

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Rubi ‘Billie Baker Boy’ hat, $19.95, cottonon.com

Cotton On stretch-waist shorts, $29.95, cottonon.com ‘RUFFLE SHOULDER GINGHAM’ MINI DRESS, $45, boohoo.com.au

FAS HIO N

WEEKEND GETAWAY

Superga slides, $39.95, gluestore.com.au

STYLING_ LARA TURNBULL

—The perfect pack for a two-day escape? Easy. Sporty basics with a pop of pretty—

Sportsgirl ‘Jasmine’ sunglasses, $39.95, sportsgirl.com.au

Made In Earth ‘Pink Tourmaline’ ring, $225, madeinearth.com.au

RUNNING BARE ‘SEEING STARS’ TIGHTS, $99.99, runningbare.com.au

SHORT ‘PIPING’ PYJAMAS, $79, homebodii.com

American Tourister ‘Curio’ 69cm suitcase, $299, americantourister.com.au

EXPERIEN CE

—Dining in the dark was always going to be different. But this five-course dinner was more surprising – and stimulating – than Catherine Best ever expected—

THE CUT

I NEED A BIB. This experiment could be disastrous. I hunch over the table, blindly stab my cutlery towards a plate I can’t see and push the fork gingerly into my mouth. It’s empty. I try again, this time using my fingers to sweep food onto the fork with the coordination of a clumsy toddler. My human dustpan-and-brush technique works and I shovel a great, greedy forkful of food into my mouth. My dining etiquette is atrocious but I don’t care – no-one is watching. Welcome to Dans le Noir? (French for In The Dark?), a new Melbourne foodie concept that has diners leaving their inhibitions – and ability to see anything – at the door. Let’s be clear, the dining in the dark concept isn’t a candlelit dinner or blindfolded tasting experience. It entails eating a mystery three- or five-course meal paired with wine in absolute, pitch-black darkness. And you won’t be seated with just your beloved – the share tables accommodate up to 12 people.

R OI

?’

I RA

SED

LAMB

RUMP

It’s a confronting experience, taking diners out of their comfort zone from the moment they slip behind the foyer curtains. With my hand on the shoulder of a stranger, a vision-impaired host leads us conga line-style into the restaurant. I’m quickly consumed in a blackness that couldn’t be more dark if I fused my eyelids shut with tar. This is all about trust. Trust in my hosts that I won’t be served rodent intestines and trust that I won’t be seated next to a creep who enjoys playing footsies under the table. Launched in Paris as a disability awareness venture in 2004, dining in the dark is a sensory event that has become part of Melbourne’s growing “in the dark” scene. Like other blackout experiences, it hyper-stimulates your remaining senses – sound, taste, touch and smell – but it also removes social inhibitions and provides insight into blindness and visual impairment. Once the guests adjust to being in darkness, conversation flows and eating becomes a fun, exploratory journey – the soft texture of protein, the crunch of a vegetable and the distinct, sweet fuzz of fairy floss. Darkness is also a great leveller. There are no preconceptions based on appearance and everyone can speak openly, free from the gaze of 11 beady sets of eyes. “It’s a total, complete experience with different levels,” Melbourne manager Aurore Lépy says, who has seen strangers embrace when they emerge, blinking, from the darkness. “Sometimes people have a drink together afterwards. In daily life, they probably wouldn’t have met.” melbourne.danslenoir.com

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FEEL YOUR WAY WITH THESE FUN ACTIVITIES > DANCE LIKE NO-ONE’S WATCHING Forget about showing off your moves, because nobody cares at No Lights No Lycra (above). The all-abilities dancing in the dark experience was born in Melbourne in 2009. Now it has closet dancers feeling the groove around the world. nolightsnolycra.com

> DIALOGUE IN THE DARK. Step into the shoes of a blind or visually impaired person as you navigate the streets of Melbourne’s CBD on this immersive journey. Be guided through the bustling city in peak hour by a person with low vision and experience Melbourne like you have never before. dialogueinthedark.com.au

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A N AT O M Y OF A DIS H

—Some call it deconstructed sushi. We call it delicious. However you describe it, Hawaii’s raw-fish dish is the world’s latest food obsession. Tuck in and prepare to be bowled over—

E K B O OW P L,

A H

I I A W

SAY W H AT? Pronounced poh-kay, the word poke means to slice and cut into pieces and refers to fish cut into cubes and eaten raw.

O C T OP U S The elusive sea creature is an acceptable alternative to raw fish in Hawaii. Ask for a tako poke if the eight-limbed cephalopod is likely to float your boat.

GE T T IN G H O OK ED

ILL U S T R AT IO N _ A D A M ALL S U C H B O A R D M A N

The dish originated more than 1500 years ago when local fishermen would cut up their catch and eat it raw with their hands.

S OY SAU CE In the 19th century, plantation workers from Japan arrived in Hawaii. They brought with them chopsticks and seasonings such as soy sauce, giving poke a Japanese flavour.

BIG FIS H The main ingredient is fresh ahi (tuna), with an emphasis on the fresh. Varieties of ahi include yellowfin, tombo (also known as albacore) or the more expensive bigeye.

SE AW EED

A D D A N AVO

There are many varieties of limu (seaweed) in the world but only one is good enough to use for poke in Hawaii – and that’s the locally-grown ogo.

Outside the island state, the poke bowl has taken a turn from tradition, with health-conscious hipsters mixing in avocado, tomato and even eggs!

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H A W A II

Two chefs, one bowl and a battle... NAME GEORGE MAVROTHAL ASSITIS RESTAURANT CHEF MAVRO, HONOLULU How do you make poke? > I cut and dice [the fish] very small and uniform. I use only top-grade, very expensive ahi and traditional ogo. Instead of using seasoned oil, which is the traditional way, I use extra virgin olive oil because I’m from Provence [in south-eastern France]. I use shallots and very fresh chilli pepper. What is the key to making good poke? > It is very important to use fresh fish. I think good poke has to be fresh, not frozen. The best is bigeye ahi. We also sell a poke with a sake mousse emulsion on the side.

THE REBEL NAME PAUL PIRRECA RESTAURANT POKE BOWL, SYDNEY What is the key to making good poke? > Fresh ingredients. A good poke bowl is all about the fresh ingredients. Fresh from the ocean and fresh from the earth. Everything comes in fresh every day. Can you put rice in a poke bowl? > Yup. You can put pretty much anything you want in it – whatever takes your fancy. You can put rice, quinoa, avocado, soy beans, coriander, lemon, cucumber, carrots, yellow beetroot, red beetroot, wakame [Japanese seaweed], sesame seeds, coconut – there is a whole list of ingredients.

Are there any ingredients you would never include in a poke bowl? > Now everybody is doing poke. In Paris, in Sydney – everybody in the world. I don’t know what is going on, but it is a very big trend. You don’t put avocado in the poke. No avocado. No tomato. No eggs! For us in Hawaii, the poke is part of life. But when I see poke in Los Angeles, New York and even Paris, I don’t know what it is, but it is not poke.

Are there any ingredients you would never include in a poke bowl? > Not really. I suppose you can add whatever you like to eat as long as it’s fresh and edible.

Can you put rice in a poke bowl? > With rice, you have a different poke – we call it “poke don”. In Hawaii, you have a lot of poke with nuts, usually kukui nuts [also called candlenut] or you can use macadamias, or no base at all.

What would you say to Hawaiian poke purists who might think what you are selling is not real poke? > I would say there is no right or wrong way. Yes, it might be a traditional food but generally in today’s market everything is evolving – food is changing. We can’t just sit on old ideas. We’ve got to reinvent and be open, otherwise change – which is a good thing – will never happen.

How do you eat poke? > If you use a fork, it is the wrong way to eat it. You have to use chopsticks. If you come to Hawaii and order a poke in the bowl and ask for a fork, you are going to pass for a bloody tourist! You have to ask for chopsticks, even if you don’t know how to use them. You take one chopstick and instead of grabbing the cube with two chopsticks, you spike the cube with one and you eat it like that. This is acceptable. What is your favourite poke? > We have the tako poke, which is octopus poke. This is my personal favourite.

How do you make poke in Australia? > People come in [to one of the four Poke Bowl restaurants] and pick their combination – and it’s all mixed together in a bowl with some really punchy, aromatic sauces.

Which is the most popular poke bowl you sell in your restaurants? > The salmon [Poke Me]. It has salmon, beetroot, cabbage and carrots, plus wakame, tobiko, white miso dressing and sesame mayo. But our customers tend to build their own quite a bit. How do you eat poke? > You can eat it with a spoon, fork or chopsticks.

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T HE C U T

W H AT'S [T REN DIN G]

—Cronuts? Yum. Zoodles? Loved them. Ramen burgers? Let’s forget that ever happened. With the next food craze an Insta-scroll away, try these before they’re #notcool—

MORE PLEASE!

F OR L U N C H?

Why is cheese the best food ever? Because it’s cheese. Out and proud cheese lovers, those in the closet and everyone in between are in heaven as raclette makes a comeback. On Tuesdays and Wednesdays, chefs at Loluk Bistro in Sydney’s Surry Hills melt a wheel of cheese and scrape the oozy top layer over potatoes, cold cuts and all your dreams of going dairy-free. lolukbistro.com.au

CRUCIFERO US C OFFEE.

IN THE DARK. Charcoal, charcoal, charcoal. Touted as a detoxer, this inky ingredient is turning up in pasta, bread, pancakes, dumplings, coffee, cocktails and even ice cream. Double Good in the Eat Street Northshore food markets in northern Brisbane, blends activated charcoal and coconut soft serve to create the dramatic Black Elvis. It totally counts as a health food, right? eatstreetmarkets.com

Move aside matcha – make way for mean, green broccoli. Yes, the broccoli latte (or “broccolatte”) is here, proving once and for all it’s easy being green. Created by the CSIRO and carefully frothed at Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula café Common Folk, latte lovers now have no excuse not to get their daily veg, one sip at a time. commonfolkcoffee. com.au

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the insider > JETSTAR NEWS, ENTERTAINMENT AND MAPS

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> Keep up to date with Jetstar news and our StarKids charity. Plus, go behind the scenes with our staff profiles.

EN T ERTA IN MEN T

PA G E

> Let us entertain you with a huge selection of movies, TV shows, podcasts, music videos and much more.

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A IRP O RT TO CI T Y

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> Heading from the airport to the city centre? Use our guide to find out the best way to get there by bus, train or taxi.

Jetstar news

SWIM, RU N, RIDE... FLY! Jetstar’s triathlon team back each other in the air and on the ground.

The 182-strong Jetstar JQ Triathlon Team made their mark at the Cairns Airport IRONMAN Asia-Pacific Championship and IRONMAN 70.3 Cairns as one of the biggest corporate teams to ever participate in the event. It’s a significant feat for the group, which has grown considerably over five years from just six crew members who would gather in Cairns for the occasional swim. Led from the front by team coach and Jetstar A320 captain Craig Needham, JQ members from across Australia, Japan and New Zealand took on either a 1.9-kilometre swim, 21.1-kilometre run or 90-kilometre bike ride, with several enthusiastic participants opting to compete in all three. Over the past seven years, the event has become a must-do on the IRONMAN circuit. Competitors take in breathtaking views from the bike course, which hugs the coastline from Cairns to Port Douglas, and feel the community support as they run the multiloop course by the stunning Cairns Esplanade before finishing in the heart of the city. Wellbeing and fulfilment were key themes underpinning the JQ Triathlon Team activity, with families and friends turning out to support the competitors. There were streamers, songs of encouragement and a Japanese drum band to cheer them on – some supporters even had home-cooked food ready for hungry athletes.

Craig, who is also a professional triathlon coach accredited with Triathlon Australia, says watching the JQ junior squad grow – a team made up of employee’s children – was probably the most rewarding part of the experience. “It’s my wish that, through our team, we can teach life lessons to our kids, paving the way for them to become strong, positive and balanced young adults,” he says. “With an esprit de corps of friendship and determination, the JQ Triathlon Team participates at sporting events all over the Jetstar network each year. It’s a community inclusive of all abilities and open to all of our staff and their families. I think it’s a great reason to come and work with us.” Even chief operating officer Dean Salter took up a place on the start line alongside the rest of the JQ Triathlon team – and as Craig reveals, “He’s not a bad swimmer either.”

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STAFF Q+A. NAME MADISON CANDY POSITION APPRENTICE AIRCRAFT MAINTENANCE ENGINEER (MECHANICAL) Tell us about the apprentice program with Jetstar. > The program runs for four years and there are 10 apprentices each year. The aim is to provide us with all the knowledge we need to be the best we can – so we complete a competency-based practical journal and theory subjects at TAFE to obtain a Certificate IV in Aeroskills. At the end of the apprenticeship, you come out as a qualified Aircraft Maintenance Engineer. I am currently a third-year apprentice. What led you to Jetstar? > I have always had a passion for aviation and when Jetstar advertised this program, I felt this was the ideal way to kick-start my career. What does your typical workday look like? > A normal day for me varies depending on the shift but typically it could include any task from pumping up a tyre – which is quite different from a car when they are holding up a 67,000-kilogram aircraft! – to changing an engine. Tell us about a career highlight so far. > It would have to be getting the peer-voted 2017 Apprentice of the Year award. I feel very proud and humbled. What’s the most interesting thing you’ve learnt about aviation? > That it is all about worker and passenger safety.

GROWING AN EDUCATION Thanks to the support of StarKids, women like May are able to farm successfully and support their families.

May comes from a small farming village in Indonesia’s East Sumba, where she lives with her husband and children. With little water available, subsistence farming in the area is difficult. For May, this meant having to work as a weaver, selling clothing and borrowing money from neighbours to buy food for her family. After being chosen to attend business start-up training with Wahana Visi Indonesia in Bantaeng, May learnt about Farmer Managed Natural Regeneration (FMNR). The land restoration technique involves regenerating existing trees and shrubs by trimming their stumps and exposed roots, along with using simple water management systems to encourage regrowth. “I learnt a lot from farmers in Bantaeng. I thought that if they could do it, I could do it too,” May says enthusiastically. “I dug the hole, made organic fertiliser, kept the plants safe from cattle and in hot weather, took care of the trees.” May now grows ginger and turmeric plants, which she sells to her neighbours to help save money for her family. “By selling them, I can earn 20,000 rupiah [nearly $2] every day,” she says. “I put any money I get towards saving for my children’s education. I must be very proud of them some day.” For more information, visit starkids.jetstar.com

FRESH NEW MEALS ON BOARD. Jetstar’s refreshed in-flight menu now includes The Eatery range of fresh and hot dishes. Focusing on homegrown food, the new range of meals are prepared with no nasties – that means no artificial flavours, colours, additives or hormones – using ethically sourced ingredients. Plus, they are presented in sustainably sourced packaging. What’s more, New Zealand passengers can now access “buy on board” snacks and drinks – which were previously pre-order only – with a tasty selection of vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free, and gluten-friendly options available.

T HE HARB O UR CI T Y OF DARWIN

DARWIN DIARIES With a sense of adventure and a way with words, Jetstar passenger Pamela Korreng wrote her way to win a trip to Darwin. Here she shares her experience of visiting the Top End for the first time.

As a seasoned international traveller, it was embarrassing that I had never seen parts of my own country, including the Northern Territory. So I was extremely excited that my first-ever prize win allowed me to explore the incredible beauty and uniqueness of Darwin – the land of the Larrakia people, the traditional owners of the region. Although I had declared I would never travel with my daughter again – something to do with her missing her boyfriend on a previous trip to South America – she turned out to be the perfect travel buddy this time. We were feeling quite smug about swapping the cold weather and rain in Adelaide for warmth and sunshine in Darwin. Then there was the bonus of packing only summer clothes, which meant lots of extra space in our suitcases for all our market purchases. After a comfortable flight into Darwin Airport, we stepped out into

“WE STEPPED O U T IN TO T HE WARM NIG H T A IR A N D SL IPPED IN TO A STATE OF REL A X AT IO N.”

the much-anticipated warm night air and slipped into a state of relaxation. Our first day was spent on a city tour and only then did I begin to realise the significance of Darwin’s World War II history. I had always known that Darwin was bombed during the war, but I naively believed it had been a minor threat over just a couple of days and had quickly been taken care of by the resident allied forces. I had no idea there were 64 attacks on Darwin over nearly two years, with an estimated 235 people killed and hundreds more injured. I continued to discover more about Darwin’s military history throughout our visit, particularly during the

JE T S TA R N E W S

SALT WATER CRO C O DILE

audio-visual experience at the Darwin Military Museum. Similarly, our visit to the last remaining accessible oil tunnel built under Darwin and out to sea provided a powerful insight into the intensity of the impact the Japanese raids had on the city. Most Australians of my generation probably remember Cyclone Tracy [1974]. Many of them, like me, also know people who were there when the old girl wreaked havoc on sleepy little Darwin in the early hours of Christmas Day all those years ago. Standing in a small, dark room listening to recorded sounds of Tracy in the midst of her fury and seeing photos of the immense damage she left were a special feature of our visit to the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory. A modern and well-designed facility, the museum houses an array of historical and contemporary exhibits. What’s more, the café serves great coffee too! One of the absolute highlights of our time up north was the sunset cruise on Darwin Harbour. The whole trip would have been worth it just to enjoy the spectacular beauty of the massive golden sun as it slid below the horizon. The almost celestial afterglow was just as breathtaking, serenely changing from orange to yellow and crimson to pink.

We also, bravely, tried a crocodile experience. Crocs are truly majestic and somewhat daunting creatures. Our guide provided comprehensive commentary on their lifestyle and habits, which put me off swimming in the waterholes of Litchfield National Park later – but the waterfalls were indeed a magnificent sight. Just as outstanding, although for a different reason, are Darwin’s iconic markets. We joined big crowds of locals and visitors at Nightcliff Markets, Parap Markets and Mindil Beach Sunset Markets, soaking up the atmosphere at every single one of them. The food, the smells, the music and the stalls – what’s not to love? We also managed to put a bit of cash into the local economy – those half-empty bags filled up nicely on our return journey – and I am especially chuffed with the paintings I purchased from a local Indigenous artist. With so much to see and so little time, our trip also became a recce for all the things we will do next time we visit, as we will definitely return.

“T HE W H OLE TRIP W O UL D H AVE BEEN W ORT H I T JUST TO EN JOY T HE SPEC TAC UL AR BE AU T Y OF T HE M ASSI VE G OL DEN SU N AS I T SL ID BELO W T HE H ORIZO N.”

A WATERFALL IN L I TCHFIEL D NATIO NAL PARK

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In-flight Entertainment —Take off into a world of entertainment – we’ve rounded up today’s most talked-about movies and TV shows, plenty of kids’ favourites, plus hit music and podcasts to keep you occupied throughout your flight— MORE THAN 40 MOVIES AND 500 TV EPISODES AVAILABLE

ONLY $10 BLOCKBUSTER MOVIES TV COMEDY AND DRAMA KIDS’ FAVOURITES HIT MUSIC PODCASTS

> NEW RELEASE MOVIES.

Tag

Adrift

Comedy | M Five former classmates hit the ground running in an elaborate, no-holds-barred game of tag.

Drama | M A young couple battle to stay alive after their boat is caught in a catastrophic hurricane.

March of the Penguins 2: The Next Step

Ocean’s 8

Documentary | G A penguin takes its first journey to an unknown destination.

Crime | M Debbie Ocean gathers an all-female crew in an attempt to pull off an impossible heist.

RATINGS

Incredibles 2 Adventure | PG Everyone’s favourite superhero family returns to take on a dangerous new villain.

Life of the Party Comedy | M When her husband dumps her, housewife Deanna hits reset and heads back to college.

G General. PG Parental guidance recommended. M Recommended for mature audiences. MA15+ Not suitable for people under 15. Under 15s must be accompanied by a parent or adult guardian.

PRE-PURCHASE IN-FLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT WHEN YOU BOOK YOUR FLIGHTS AND SAVE!

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EN T ER TA IN MEN T

> NEW RELEASE MOVIES.

Solo: A Star Wars Story Sci-Fi | M Journey to a galaxy far, far away for a new adventure about a most unlikely hero.

> FAMILY MOVIES.

Shock and Awe Biography | TBC In 2003, two reporters investigate the Bush administration’s planned invasion of Iraq.

I Feel Pretty

Night at the Museum

Ferdinand

Adventure, Comedy | PG The new night guard at the Natural History Museum discovers an ancient curse.

Animation | G A gentle-tempered bull is mistakenly taken to a bull fighting camp in Spain.

Storks

The Lego Ninjago Movie

Animation, Adventure | G Storks now deliver parcels, not babies, so when a bub appears, it’s total chaos.

Animation | PG The Green Ninja must defeat Garmadon, who’s also the Worst Guy Ever.

The Lion King

Toy Story

Animation | G A lion prince embarks on an adventure to find his place in the circle of life.

Animation | G Join Woody, Buzz and the gang in an adventure full of humour and heart.

The Lego Movie

The Incredibles

Animation | PG Emmet, an average Lego figure, is told he is the key to saving his Lego world.

Comedy | M A woman struggling with insecurity wakes from a fall believing she is a supermodel.

Deadpool 2

The Greatest Showman

Action | MA15+ Deadpool must protect a young boy with supernatural abilities from a brutal cyborg.

Action, Adventure, Fantasy | M Brash dreamer PT Barnum rises from the bottom to prove to the world that anything is possible.

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EN T ER TA IN MEN T

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> DC WORLD MOVIES.

Man of Steel

Suicide Squad

Action, Adventure, Fantasy | M Clark Kent must unleash his inner superhero to save the world from annihilation.

Action, Adventure, Fantasy | M The world’s most dangerous incarcerated super villains are sent on a mission.

Batman v Superman: Dawn of Justice

Justice League

Wonder Woman

Action, Adventure, Fantasy | M Bruce Wayne enlists Wonder Woman and The Flash to help him face a great enemy.

Action | M Diana, princess of the Amazons, leaves home and discovers her full powers and true destiny.

Action, Adventure, Fantasy | M Convinced the Man of Steel is a threat, Batman vows to end his reign on the planet.

> FOREIGN FILMS.

> FAVOURITE MOVIES. The Devil Wears Prada

Inception

Comedy | PG A young woman assists the tyrannical editor-in-chief of a famous fashion magazine.

Action | M A thief who enters people’s dreams and steals secrets is tasked with planting an idea.

Battle of the Sexes

Sex and the City

Operation Red Sea

Comedy | PG The electrifying 1973 tennis match between Billie Jean King and ex-champ Bobby Riggs.

Comedy | MA15+ Carrie, Miranda, Charlotte and Samantha return as Carrie gets ready to finally marry Mr Big.

Action | MA15+ When a deadly terrorist plot is uncovered, the Chinese Navy’s Assault Team is called into action.

The Prestige

Interview with the Vampire

Kids on the Slope

Drama | M Two rival magicians and former friends fight to outwit each other on the stage.

Drama, Horror | MA15+ A 200-year-old vampire tells a young reporter about his life of love, loneliness and hunger.

Drama | TBC Two very different high school students form an unlikely friendship through their love for music.

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> TELEVISION.

Young Sheldon (Season 1)

Westworld (Season 2)

Comedy | PG For nine-year-old Sheldon Cooper, being a once-ina-generation mind capable of advanced mathematics and science isn’t always helpful and understood in East Texas, a land where church and football are king.

Drama | MA15+ The puppet show is over and the newly liberated android hosts of the futuristic Wild West-themed amusement park are coming for humankind. As the hosts begin to retaliate, will they be stopped from harming the park’s guests?

Glam Masters (Season 1)

Pierre the Painter

Krypton (Season 1)

Lifestyle | TBC Twelve YouTube beauty influencers compete for a spot on Kim Kardashian West’s Glam Squad and the coveted job of running Kardashian Beauty.

Kids | G Pierre loves to show off his artwork and visits different locations to paint pictures. As he begins to draw, all his friends try to guess what the picture will be.

Drama | M Years before the Superman legend we know, the Man of Steel’s grandfather was fighting his own battle to save his beloved home planet from destruction.

©BBC 2018

Andy’s Safari Adventures (Season 1)

Splitting Up Together (Season 1)

Kids | G Safari park ranger Andy takes viewers on a funfilled adventure to learn all about amazing animals from across the globe.

Comedy | PG Divorces can force families apart, but not Lena and Martin – they are splitting up together. Maybe their marriage isn’t over...

Modern Family (Season 5) Comedy | PG Cam and Mitch prepare their perfect proposals, Gloria hires a male nanny and Jay secretly enters Stella in a dog show.

©Marvel

The New Hustle Lifestyle | M A new breed of start-ups are taking on the world. This documentary follows the real Australians going head-to-head with the biggest companies around.

Marvel’s Spider-Man (Season 1) Kids | PG Peter Parker is accepted into Horizon High, but he struggles with the duality of life at school and hiding his identity as Spider-Man.

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> MUSIC VIDEOS.

Queen

New Hits Various

> ALBUMS. Youngblood 5 Seconds of Summer

Ready Ruel

Tune in to the new charttopping studio album from Sydney pop-rock band 5 Seconds of Summer. Youngblood is the Aussie group’s third US Billboard 200 number-one album and includes their hit song of the same name.

London-born, Australian teen Ruel was introduced to soul, blues and jazz by his father. He picked up the guitar when he was eight and started to write songs, drawing from his experiences as a teenage boy. Ready is his debut EP.

Love Monster Amy Shark

Inspiration Sheku Kanneh-Mason

Following her EP Night Thinker, Amy Shark’s hotly anticipated first full-length album, Love Monster, is here. With hit tracks like “Adore”, “Weekends” and lead single “I Said Hi”, prepare to fall in love with this indie pop artist.

His performance at the royal wedding of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle wowed guests and those watching at home. For his debut album, Sheku pays tribute to the heroes who spurred him on throughout his extraordinary journey.

> PODCASTS & RADIO.

Jonesy and Amanda

The Bump The Hits Pure Gold ChillZone Settle Petal Lady Startup No Filter Ask Me Anything 2DayFM Breakfast with Em, Grant and Ed Fifi, Fev and Byron

Explore the top of the charts with a selection of hot, new music videos from the biggest pop stars on the planet, including Alison Wonderland, Thundamentals, Troye Sivan, Alessia Cara, Maroon 5 and Cardi B.

00s + 10s Various Featuring some of the best music of all time, you are sure to remember many of the music videos from these two decades. Listen to the likes of Kate Miller-Heidke, Empire of the Sun, The Killers, Delta Goodrem, Meghan Trainor, John Legend and Boy and Bear.

90s Various If it seems like the 90s were not too long ago, you are sure to enjoy rewinding the top tracks with music videos from back in the day. Get nostalgic with Bryan Adams, Guns N’ Roses, Queen, The Soup Dragons, Pulp and more.

80s Various It’s time to head back to the 80s and embrace the decade of glam rock, dance music and synthesisers with the coolest tracks from Swing Out Sister, Stevie Wonder, ABBA, The Human League, Simple Minds and The Buggles.

Carrie and Tommy Hughesy and Kate Chrissie, Sam and Browny Fitzy and Wippa Kate, Tim and Marty Jonesy and Amanda Kyle and Jackie O Jase and PJ Will and Woody The Grill Team The Hot Breakfast

Kennedy Molloy Puka Up with Wayne Schwass The Big Questions with Adam Spencer A Plate to Call Home with Gary Mehigan Aussies in Hollywood We Fact Up The Disruptive Entrepreneur

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SYDNEY. >

TAXI ABOUT $45

AIRPORT TO CIT Y Touching down in a new city? Here's how to get to the centre of the action your way.

TAXI ABOUT $40

BUS $4.80 Bus Route 380, which takes its name from the Airbus A380 aircraft, departs T1 and T2 and is a limited stops service, terminating at Elizabeth Quay Bus Station in the city centre. For those travelling from T3 and T4, Route 40 operates daily between the airport and Elizabeth Quay Bus Station.

TIP... The Experience WA smartphone app gives you access to the latest information on local tourist attractions, restaurants, accommodation, transport options and more.

TRAIN $18.70 Catching a train into the city is easy and takes about 10 minutes. Grab the T8 Airport and South Line towards City Circle, which stops at Central Station.

BUS $5.80 While it does not head into the CBD, Route 400 operates between Bondi Junction in the city’s east and Burwood in the west. You can catch the bus from outside the T1 International and T3 Domestic terminals.

TIP... Trains and buses from the airport start around 5am daily and end at midnight.

ADELAIDE.

PERTH. “I WANT TO BE SURPRISED BY MOST OF THE PLACES I GO TO; IT’S ONE OF THE PLEASURES OF TRAVEL BECAUSE YOU TAKE STOCK OF HOW YOU FEEL ABOUT A PLACE.” IAN THORPE

TAXI ABOUT $30

BUS $10.40 (DAYTRIP) The JetBus and doubledecker JetExpress airport to city services depart the terminal from Sir Richard Williams Avenue and stop at Currie Street in the city centre. From there, it is just a short walk to Adelaide Oval, Rundle Mall and the city’s main train station on North Terrace.

MELBOURNE. (TULLAMARINE)

TIP... If you are staying in the city of churches for the weekend, purchase a $25 Metrocard Visitor Pass. The ticket gives tourists unlimited travel on buses, trains and trams across three consecutive days.

TAXI ABOUT $65

BUS $19.50 The Skybus Melbourne City Express departs the airport every 10 minutes and stops at the busy inner city Southern Cross Station. From there, you can catch another bus, train, tram or slip into a cab at the taxi stand located directly outside on Spencer Street.

TIP... Explore the CBD onboard the free City Circle tourist tram between 10am and 9pm from Thursday to Saturday and between 10am and 6pm from Sunday to Wednesday.

MELBOURNE. (AVALON)

TAXI ABOUT $130 TO MELBOURNE, $50 TO GEELONG

BUS $22 TO MELBOURNE, $18 TO GEELONG The SkyBus Avalon City Express takes about an hour to travel from Avalon Airport to Southern Cross Station in Melbourne CBD. If you are heading to Geelong, the SkyBus Avalon Geelong Express takes about 40 minutes to reach the port town.

TIP... Download the handy Avalon Airport smartphone app for information about transport, car hire, parking and flight schedules.

T HE IN SIDER

BRISBANE.

GOLD COAST.

TAXI ABOUT $45

TRAIN $18.50 The Airtrain is a quick and easy option for travelling from the airport into the city. Trains depart every 15 minutes during peak hour and every 30 minutes during off-peak periods. The Airtrain takes just 20 minutes to get to Central Station in the city centre. The service starts at 5am on weekdays and 6am on weekends and the last train departs at 10pm. TIP... Download the BNE app to help you find transport options, maps, where to dine and shop, parking information and more.

TAXI ABOUT $30

BUS $6 The Airport Connect bus departs from Cairns Airport every 30 minutes from 4.30am until the last flight of the day. The bus takes passengers on a 10-minute trip to a bus depot at Sheridan Street in the city, where they can continue their journey on a Translink public bus. Alternatively, you can book a shuttle into the city for $6 one-way with Backpacker Shuttle Cairns.

TAXI ABOUT $60 “I USUALLY TRY TO BOOK A FLIGHT THAT GETS IN AT A TIME WHEN I CAN GO STRAIGHT TO SLEEP UPON ARRIVAL.” VENUS WILLIAMS

BUS $21 The SkyBus Gold Coast Airport Shuttle operates seven days a week and is a dedicated service for visitors travelling from the airport to the Gold Coast’s most popular tourist spots. The shuttle departs from outside the airport terminal and stops at Burleigh Heads, Broadbeach, Surfers Paradise and Southport.

TIP... It is not a joke – crocs are about! Look out for the red and yellow signs around town and stay croc aware.

“WHEN YOU LAND AFTER A LONG, LONG FLIGHT, GO HIT THE GYM AND DO A 30-MINUTE RUN. IT HAS WORKED FOR ME – WHEN I’VE ACTUALLY HAD THE ENERGY TO DO IT!” JENNIFER ANISTON

TAXI ABOUT $50

BUS $19.50 The SkyBus Hobart Express service operates daily and departs regularly from the airport. The bus takes about 30 minutes to travel to the city centre, stopping at Brooke street Pier before terminating at 19 Macquarie Street, which is located behind the Grand Chancellor Hotel.

TIP... Download the Hobart Cabs 131 008 smartphone app to order and track your taxi from the airport. For everything to see, eat, sleep, shop and play in Hobart, get The Guides by Lonely Planet app.

TIP... Gold Coast Cabs offer special flat rate fares from the airport to accommodation located in Surfers Paradise ($65) or Broadbeach ($55).

CAIRNS. >

HOBART.

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BALLINA.

DARWIN.

TAXI ABOUT $100 TO BYRON BAY

BUS $7.20 The Route 640 bus from Ballina Airport takes close to an hour to make the 37-kilometre journey to the popular beachside town of Byron Bay.

TIP... If you prefer to have your transport organised and booked in advance, check out the Ballina Byron Gateway Airport website for information about shuttle bus services. For those who want to explore and find their own way, all major car rental companies are represented at the airport.

TAXI ABOUT $30

BUS PRICE ON BOOKING The Darwin City Airport Shuttle Service is available seven days a week to take you from the airport to your accommodation in the city. The shuttle departs every 20 minutes during peak period and services all major flights to the airport. Online bookings must be made 24 hours in advance.

TIP... If you are staying at the Mercure Darwin Airport Resort or Novotel Darwin Airport Hotel, a free shuttle bus service is available for transfer from the terminal to your accommodation.

BALI. >

TOKYO. “THE MAIN THING IS TO HAVE A MEMORABLE EXPERIENCE. DON'T JUST LOOK THROUGH THE WINDOW OF A COACH – GET OUT THERE. FEEL IT, SNIFF IT, EAT IT, AND GENERALLY ROLL ABOUT IN IT.” MICHAEL PALIN

TAXI ABOUT $7 TO KUTA

BUS $2 There are a range of bus options to choose from but a popular choice is the bright green Kura-Kura tourist bus, which stops at most major locations across the island. The closest departure point to the airport is outside the Aston Kuta Hotel, which is a brisk 16-minute walk from the terminal.

TIP... Show the name of your hotel to the bus conductor so the driver can tell you where to get off. It is also handy to have a map available on your phone.

TRAIN $37 The Narita Express or N’EX departs every 25 to 40 minutes and takes under an hour to reach Tokyo Station. Buy your ticket at JR EAST Travel Service Centers, which are located inside each of the three airport terminals.

TIP... Grab the free shuttle to travel between the airport’s three terminals.

SINGAPORE.

BUS $1 The Route 109 bus departs the airport every 15 to 20 minutes between 5.30am and 1am. The bus travels to the city centre (District 1), terminating at 23/9 Park via Pham Ngu Lao backpacker district and the Ben Thanh bus station. Travel time depends on traffic, but the yellow bus generally takes about 30 minutes to reach the city.

HO CHI MINH CITY.

TAXI ABOUT $35

TRAIN $2 The Changi Airport MRT Station (CG2) is located under Terminal 2. Take the train to Tanah Merah station and change to the East West Line heading towards City Hall.

BUS $9 The City Shuttle bus departs every 15 minutes during peak periods and every 30 minutes during off-peak. The trip to the city takes 25 minutes and stops at most major hotels.

TIP... Save your roaming budget and connect to the free Wi-Fi at Changi Airport.

OSAKA. (KANSAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT)

TAXI ABOUT $250

BUS $11 The Keisei group’s Tokyo Shuttle takes 90 minutes to reach the city centre near Tokyo Station.

TIP... Knowing how to say a few phrases in the local lingo can go a long way in Bali. To ask a local to help you call for a taxi, try saying, “Bisa tolong untuk telepon dan order taksi?”

TAXI ABOUT $10

(NARITA AIRPORT)

TAXI ABOUT $250

TRAIN $28 Ride the Kansai Airport Express Haruka to Tennoji Station. There you can easily catch another train to Osaka or stay on the same train and head directly to Kyoto, which takes about 75 minutes.

BUS $19 Travel in luxury aboard the Kansai International Airport Limousine Bus, which will take you directly to Osaka or Kyoto (for $31).

TIP... Taxis are expensive. Travel by train or bus instead.

FIJI. “I TRAVEL A LOT AND I LOVE GOING TO ART GALLERIES AND MUSEUMS IN DIFFERENT CITIES WITH MY FAMILY AND FRIENDS!” BEYONCE

TAXI ABOUT $10 TO NADI

BUS $11 Airport Shuttle Fiji operate a 24-hour shuttle service from Nadi International Airport to most major hotels and resorts in Nadi. Bookings must be made at least one day prior to arriving at the airport.

TIP... It is an offence for taxi drivers to take passengers without having their meter running. If your driver is not using a meter, note the taxi registration number and report it to the police. The driver may have their license suspended and receive a fine.

A IRP O R T T O CI T Y

AUCKLAND. >

TAXI ABOUT $60

BUS $16 The SkyBus departs the airport every 10 minutes and takes approximately 55 minutes to arrive in the centre of Auckland. Alternatively, Super Shuttle can take you straight to your accommodation for $23 for the first passenger and $9 for every extra passenger travelling in the same group.

TIP... The Auckland Transport mobile app makes it easy to move around the city. Download the app to help you plan and track AT Metro buses, trains and ferry services in real time.

QUEENSTOWN. >

TAXI ABOUT $25

BUS $5 The Orbus departs the airport every 15 minutes and takes approximately 25 minutes to reach the town centre. For $13, you can opt to share an 11-seater Super Shuttle for a convenient, tailored door-to-door journey from Queenstown Airport to your accommodation.

TIP... If your accommodation is anywhere in the centre of Queenstown, you can simply rely on foot power to get around – most things in the adventure capital are within easy walking distance.

HONG KONG. >

TAXI ABOUT $50

TRAIN $20 The Airport Express departs every 10 minutes and takes around 24 minutes to reach Hong Kong Station in the bustling business district.

BUS $6 The Cityflyer route A21 is ideal for travellers heading into the city and perfect for those who want a preview of Hong Kong from the bus window. Buses depart every 15-20 minutes from the airport.

TIP... Download the MTR Next Train app to keep track of real-time train schedules.

135

HAWAII. (DANIEL K INOUYE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT)

TAXI ABOUT $61 TO WAIKIKI

BUS $4 Routes 19 and 20 depart from the second-level roadway at Honolulu Airport and stop off at downtown Honolulu, Ala Moana Shopping Centre and the hotel-dense Waikiki precinct.

TIP... Taxi drivers are referred to as “ambassadors of aloha”. They are proud of their island and love pointing out landmarks and places of interest. Ask questions – you never know what local secrets you might learn.

WHERE WE FLY Here’s how to get around our network – have fun planning your next trip.

INTERNATIONAL. Tokyo (Narita)

Zhengzhou Shanghai (Pudong) Shantou Guangzhou Chiang Mai

Dong Hoi

Da Nang Siem Reap Bangkok Phnom Penh Phuket

Nagoya (Chubu)

Okinawa Taipei

Hong Kong Haikou Sanya

Hanoi

Yangon

Osaka (Kansai)

Hawaii (Honolulu)

Clark

Manila

Ho Chi Minh City

Hat Yai

Penang Medan

Pekanbaru

Kuala Lumpur Singapore

Palembang Jakarta Surabaya

Bali (Denpasar) Darwin Fiji (Nadi)

Cairns

Cook Islands (Rarotonga)

Brisbane

Gold Coast

Perth

Sydney Adelaide

Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Jetstar Asia Operated by Jetstar Pacific Operated by Jetstar Japan

Auckland

Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Wellington Christchurch Queenstown

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DOMESTIC VIETNAM.

137

DOMESTIC JAPAN.

Hanoi Sapporo

Hai Phong Thanh Hoa Vinh Dong Hoi Hue

Nagoya (Chubu)

Da Nang Chu Lai

Matsuyama Osaka Fukuoka Oita Takamatsu Nagasaki Kumamoto Miyazaki Kagoshima

Quy Nhon

Pleiku

Tuy Hoa Buon Ma Thuot Nha Trang Da Lat

Flights are operated by Jetstar Japan and commence 27 October (OsakaKumamoto), subject to regulatory approval

Okinawa

Ho Chi Minh City

Phu Quoc

Tokyo (Narita) (Kansai)

Operated by Jetstar Pacific

Operated by Jetstar Japan

AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND.

Auckland New Plymouth

Darwin

Nelson Cairns Townsville Hamilton Island Whitsunday Coast Mackay

Queenstown

Sunshine Coast

Ayers Rock (Uluru)

Brisbane

Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Eastern Australia Airlines for Jetstar Airways

Gold Coast Newcastle

Sydney

Adelaide

Melbourne (Tullamarine)

Auckland

Melbourne (Avalon) Wellington

Launceston Hobart

Operated by Jetstar Airways

Christchurch Queenstown

Palmerston North Wellington

Christchurch Dunedin

Ballina Byron Perth

Napier

PUZZLES 1

7 8

9 10 11

14 15

19 20

22 23

24 25

PICTURE A

PICTURE B

QUIZ 1 Who will play the new Captain Marvel (pictured far right) in the movie to be released in March? 2 Babies are born with nearly 300 bones but how many are in the adult human body? 3 In what year did Brisbane host the World Expo? 4 What symbol of unity is the national floral emblem of Australia?

CROSSWORD Across 1 A powerful business person (5) 7 The first name of the person shown in picture A (8) 8 Finnish steam bath (5) 10 French queen, Marie ... (10) 12 The surname of the person shown in picture B (8) 14 Blood lump (4) 16 Consommé or chowder (4) 17 Specialist hat-maker (8) 20 Literary piracy (10) 23 Perfume, ... toilette (3,2) 24 Text message symbol (8) 25 Baker’s leavening agent (5) Down 1 Natural history building (6) 2 Forearm bone (4) 3 Emperor Claudius’ heir (4) 4 Reddish-orange dye (5) 5 Highest mountain in France (4,5) 6 Acting sovereign (6) 9 Venezuelan waterfall, ... Falls (5) 11 Chamber for premature infant (9) 13 Garland of flowers (3) 15 The surname of the person shown in picture C (5) 16 Seven-piece musical group (6) 18 Scottish king, ... the Bruce (6) 19 Fairy or elf (5) 21 Chess castle (4) 22 Nutmeg spice (4)

PICTURE C

5 What is Fiji’s second-biggest export following refined petroleum oils? 6 What are the four countries Thailand shares a border with? 7 What nation won the 2018 FIFA World Cup held in Russia? 8 In May 1977, Australia had a plebiscite asking citizens to vote on their preferred national anthem. What were the four songs in the running?

CROSSWORD AND PUZZLES COMPILED BY LOVATTS

9 How long is Ninety Mile Beach, located at the tip of New Zealand’s North Island? 10 What letter in the alphabet is Vietnam shaped like? 11 Rio de Janeiro hosted the 2016 Summer Olympics. Which city will host in 2020? 12 What is the official currency of Bali called? 13 What controversial movie won this year’s Academy Award for Best Picture?

T HE IN SIDER

139

SUDOKU

5 2

8 2

EASY

3 6

6 8

4 2

HARD

WHEEL WORDS

C I

T N

N F O

E D

14 What two Australian capital cities are the furthest distance apart? 15 What 2000 movie about a young coal minerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s son from Northern England was made into a hit musical? 16 With an estimated net worth of about $160 billion, who is now the richest man on earth according to Forbes? 17 What instrument is the baby sibling of the Portuguese braguinha?

Create words of 4 letters or more using the given letters once only, but always including the middle letter. Do not use proper names or plurals ending with S. See if you can find the 9-letter word using up all letters.

16 GOOD

26 VERY GOOD

36+ EXCELLENT

18 The world record for the fastest 100-metre run by a woman is 10.49 seconds and was set during the Olympic trials in Indianapolis in 1988. Who holds that record? 19 What is the name of the famous intersection in Tokyo, Japan, that has as many as 2500 people crossing the road at one time? 20 With nearly 145 million followers, who has the most Instagram followers in the world? SOLUTIONS ON PAGE 142

Find the solutions on page 142.

W Q

G W

W O

W D

U M

There are 16 beach-themed words hidden in the grid. Search up, down, forwards, backwards and diagonally for the words. Can you find them all? B U CKE T D OLP HINS L IFEG UAR D R O CKS SA N D C ASTL E SE AG ULLS SE AWEED SH ARKS SHELLS SHIP WRECK S U NS CREEN TO WELS T-SHIRT U MBRELL A WE TS UI T W H AL ES

What do you get when you cross a vampire and a snowman? Frost bite! What stays in the corner yet can travel all over the world?

5 4

9 6

A stamp. About a buck an ear. What has hands but can’t clap?

6 2

A clock. Two pickles fell out of a jar onto the floor. What did one say to the other? Dill with it. What starts with the letter “T”, is filled with “T” and ends in “T”?

A teapot. What’s worse than finding a worm in your apple?

3 1

How much does it cost a pirate to get his ears pierced?

7 5

6 8

6 9 9 4

Finding half a worm.

P U ZZLES

Can you spot the EIGHT DIFFERENCES between these two images? Circle what’s changed on the image below.

1 MOVIES Test your knowledge with these super fun, totally awesome trivia questions.

1 Which movie features Simba and Mufasa? 2 Which two Disney characters sing the duet “A Whole New World”? 3 What is the name of the monkey in 2006 film Night at the Museum?

2 SPACE 1 What is the largest planet in our solar system? 2 True or false: Pluto is larger than the Earth’s moon? 3 How many rings does the planet Saturn have? 4 What is the Milky Way?

3 ANIMALS 1 True or false: whales and dolphins are mammals? 2 Kangaroos, koalas and possums are what kind of animal? 3 Can emus fly? 4 Which animal is bigger: a lion or a tiger?

141

142

P U ZZLES

SOLUTIONS CROSSWORD

MO U S A E U M I S E P T E T

GU L UN A I NN C OU P B L AG T MO T R

N H M P E N E L OP A R N N N T O I N E T T G A B E L L I C L O L E C A M I L L I N E P O C I A R I SM X O E A UD I CON C E K Y E A S

R E G E N T R O B E R T

WHEEL WORDS Cent, Coin, Cone, Dent, Dine, Dint, Done, Fend, Find, Fine, Fino, Fond, Font, Icon, Into, Neon, Nice, Nide, Nine, Node, None, Note, Once, Tend, Tine, Tone, Cento, Coned, Conin, Feint, Fiend, Fined, Ninon, Niton, Nonce, Nonet, Noted, Often, Tenon, Tined, Toned, Tonic, Tonne, Coined, Conine, Conned, Dentin, Docent, Finned, Indent, Infect, Intend, Intone, Noetic, Notice, Tendon, Tinned, Confide, Confine, Contend, Ctenoid, Intoned, Noticed, Confined. 9-letter word: CONFIDENT

QUIZ 1 2 3 4 5 6

9 88 kilometres 10 S 11 Tokyo 12 Rupiah 13 The Shape of Water 14 Darwin and Hobart 15 Billy Elliot 16 Amazon.com CEO, Jeff Bezos 17 Hawaii’s ukulele 18 Florence Griffith-Joyner 19 Shibuya 20 Selena Gomez

Brie Larson 206 1988 The golden wattle Mineral or aerated water Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia and Malaysia

7 France 8 “Advance Australia Fair”, “God Save the Queen”, “Waltzing Matilda” and “Song of Australia”

W Q

G W

W O

W D

U M

1 The missing butterfly on the wall. 2 The colour of Jessie’s hat. 3 The missing button on Buzz Lightyear’s arm. 4 The missing lines on the ceiling. 5 The extra eye on Mrs Potato Head. 6 The missing nostril on Hamm (the piggy bank).

SUDOKU

7 The colour of the basket.

6 9

EASY

HARD

8 The extra eye on the Squeeze Toy Alien.

Movies

Space

Animals

1 The Lion King

1 Jupiter

1 True

2 Aladdin and

2 False

2 Marsupials

Jasmine

3 Four

3 No

3 Dexter

4 A galaxy

4 A tiger

Living Like The Rich & Famous While watching a TV show about movie stars’ homes my husband and I saw a Bidet Toilet Seat and ever since then we’ve always wanted to get one of these amazing Bidets in our own bathroom. We went into The BIDET SHOP® and saw a sign that read, “This bidet seat simply replaces your existing toilet seat and will automatically clean and dry you.” They told us that The BIDET SHOP® had been supplying electric Bidet seats for over 10 years; had an excellent after sales service with a 7 day help line, and all of their products were quick to install. We bought one on the spot and it was up and running the next day. Give it a go... because we couldn’t be happier living like the rich and famous! S DEL MO OM FR 00

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AUTHENTIC JAPANESE DINING Visit Kenzan Japanese restaurant for some of the freshest sushi and sashimi dishes in Melbourne, along with daily changing à la carte dishes and surprising specials. The restaurant has been in its current CBD location for 36 years, and is the most awarded Japanese restaurant in Melbourne. Be welcomed by friendly staff for an authentic Japanese dining experience.

Address: Collins Place, 45 Collins Street, Melbourne Tel: +61 (03) 9654 8933 Web: kenzan.com.au

144

T HE IN SIDER

H I G H E R. B I G G E R. F A S T E R. L O N G E R. E ACH ISSUE WE FO C US O N A PL ACE P U NCHIN G AB OVE I TS WEIG H T

NEW ZEALAND

> These crested penguins may look like they’re gawping at the crashing wave but it’s certainly not the mightiest they’ve seen. The waters around Campbell Island recorded the biggest ever wave in the Southern Hemisphere this year. Clocking in at 23.8 metres, it was about the height of an eight-storey building. Rugged and windswept, this remote island in New Zealand, the largest in the Campbell Islands group, is the southernmost of the country’s subantarctic islands. Probably best known for being home to six species of albatross, plus plenty of other marine animals (including said penguins), its other, darker, claim to fame is its seal-hunting and whaling legacy from the 1800s. Today, it is an important weather and biological research station.

681KM CAMPBELL ISL AND

IMAGE_ KYLE MORRISON

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Cristiano Ronaldo