S EP 2 0 1 9
MAGAZINE
W H Y S OL O SK I I N G I N JA PA N IS FA B UL O U S
MAGAZINE
F R EE T O TA K E H O M E
K-P O P T O T H E M E PA RK S: I T’S PL AY T I M E I N SE O UL E N T ER # JE T S TA R CL O U D S T O W I N A Y E A R OF T R AV EL
PARADISE FOUND
Indulge, explore, relax. Indonesia’s extraordinary Gili Islands are like nowhere else.
S EP 2 0 1 9
NEW ZEALAND
GOLD COAST
CAMBODIA
GEELO N G
BANGKOK
PERTH
W H I T S U N D AY S
SAPPORO
SEP 2019
CONTENTS
the traveller W HERE T O G O N E X T
the checklist ALL T HE T R AVEL IN T EL YO U NEED N O W
0 1 4 P O S T C A R D F R O M ... Ari, Bangkok.
0 1 6 7 M Y T H S A B O U T... The Whitsundays.
0 1 8 H A C K : H O W T O A C E ZER O-WAS TE TR AVEL Top tips for reducing your environmental footprint.
0 2 0 T R AV E L T R E N D S:
042 GILI ISL ANDS The Indonesian archipelago is a haven for turtles and heaven for divers.
L I G H T H O U S E S TAY S Spend the night at spectacular
locations on the Australian coast.
0 2 2 T W O S I D E S O F... Cambodia.
0 2 4 H A C K : S T A Y I N G SAFE OUTDOORS E xpert advice to follow when exploring in the wilderness.
0 2 6 T R AV E L T R E N D S: ECO TOURS Five attractions that harness the power of the elements.
0 2 9 T E C H The latest gadgets, apps, news and technology tips.
0 3 3 T R A V E L N E W S Updates, info and events from around our network.
036 CALENDAR Spring tulips, racing and a circus – what not to miss this month.
050 SEOUL The South Korean capital is a joy ride for families.
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C O N T EN T S
058 JAPAN A solo traveller discovers the lesser-known ski resorts of Hokkaido.
the cut T H E BES T OF W H ERE T O E AT, D R IN K A N D PL AY
0 8 6 E A T + D R I N K : GEELONG Victoria’s second-largest city is home to a vibrant food scene that caters for all appetites.
0 9 2 H A P P Y H O U R S: P E R T H Beer, wine, cocktails – cool bars serving cut-price drinks in the WA capital.
096 FOOD TRENDS The evolution of the burger continues.
098 EXPERIENCE Take to the sky over the ocean to try flyboarding.
065
10 0 FASHION
GOLD COAST
As the weather warms up, dress the part for your next adventure.
Three locals share their favourite spots for surfing holidays, family fun and a getaway with friends.
the insider JE T S TA R N E W S, M AP S A N D EN T ER TA IN MEN T
1 0 4 JE T S TA R N E W S 1 0 9 EN T ER TA IN M EN T 114 AIRPORT TO CITY 1 1 8 W H E R E W E FLY 120 GAMES + PUZZLES 1 2 4 W H E R E’S W A L LY ? 1 2 8 H I G H E R , BI G G E R ,
F A S T E R , LO N G E R
0 74 WAIR AR APA Maori myths and fur seals enrich a hiking trail on New Zealand’s North Island.
Cover photography by Nadia Bullock.
E DITOR I A L .
CONTRIBUTORS.
EDITOR Jacqueline Lunn
EDITORIAL INQUIRIES
DEPUTY EDITOR Sudeshna Ghosh
EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Rachel Gray
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jon Gregory DESIGNER Lisa Emmanuel ACTING CHIEF SUBEDITOR Sarah Neil SUBEDITOR Deborah Grunfeld PHOTOGRAPHIC EDITOR Nicola Sevitt
Suite 58, 26-32 Pirrama Road, Pyrmont, NSW 2009 P (02) 8114 8944 E jetstar.editorial@mediumrarecontent.com
MANAGING EDITOR, JETSTAR Simon Tsang
A DVERT I S I N G . HEAD OF SALES, TRAVEL AND LUXURY
VIC & QLD ADVERTISING DIRECTOR
Tony Trovato | (02) 8114 8920
Chris Joy | (03) 9292 3207
NATIONAL ADVERTISING MANAGER
VIC GROUP SALES MANAGER
AND CLIENT PARTNER
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VIC ACCOUNT MANAGER
NSW SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER
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Emily Whelan | (02) 8114 8643
NEW ZEALAND BUSINESS
SARAH REID Byron Bay-based freelance travel writer Sarah has a passion for low-impact globetrotting and this month reveals how to nail zero-waste travel. “With a bit of savvy, it’s easier than you think,” she says.
DEVELOPMENT MANAGER
Stuart Tovey | +64 21 711 606
M EDIUM R A R E C O N T E N T A G E N C Y. MANAGING DIRECTOR Gerard Reynolds DIRECTOR Sally Wright CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Fiorella Di Santo HEAD OF CONTENT, TRAVEL AND LUXURY Kirsten Galliott DIGITAL DIRECTOR Karla Courtney MULTIMEDIA DIRECTOR Shannon O’Meara SOCIAL DIRECTOR Scott Drummond STRATEGY DIRECTOR Lyndsey Long FINANCE MANAGER Leslie To
Jetstar magazine is published monthly and is complimentary to domestic and international passengers. Published for Jetstar Airways by Medium Rare Content Agency (ABN 83 169 879 921), Suite 58/26-32 Pirrama Road, Pyrmont, NSW 2009. ©2019. All rights reserved. Printed by Ovato Print Pty Ltd. Paper fibre is from sustainably managed forests and controlled sources. No responsibility is accepted for unsolicited material. Articles express the opinions of the authors and not necessarily those of Jetstar Airways or Medium Rare Content Agency. For a copy of Medium Rare Content Agency’s Privacy Policy, visit mediumrarecontent.com. ISSN 1443-2013.
We want you to know that at Jetstar our writers are not armchair travellers. Any assistance we do accept from the travel industry to produce our stories does not compromise the integrity of our coverage.
For flight reservations jetstar.com For hotel bookings and holiday packages jetstar.com/hotels jetstar.com/holidays
CAROLYN SWINDELL A travel writer for a decade and a half, an ABC radio regular who talks cocktails – and a comedian – Sydneysider Carolyn has crossed the Tasman to New Zealand more than 50 times but counts Wairarapa among her favourite finds.
SAMANTHA ALLEMANN Melbourne writer and editor Samantha has been freelancing for over 15 years. “Getting to share Geelong’s thriving food scene with readers is a joy – not just because it meant indulging in too many tacos in the name of research,” she says.
CEO’S LE T T ER
Taking to the air with kids > Thanks for choosing to fly with us. If you’re flying with young children today, you’re not alone. September is a popular time for family travel. In fact, more than 100,000 families will take to the skies with us this month. Travelling with kids requires some extra planning but it’s well worth it. New experiences and different cultures can really broaden a child’s mind, make them more curious and ignite their imagination. I remember the first time I took my children on a flight – we were travelling from Sydney to the Sunshine Coast. Every bit of the journey was exciting. Alert to everything around them, my two little girls were wide-eyed from the moment we stepped inside the terminal. Once airborne, seeing their noses pressed against the window reminded me just how awe-inspiring it is to take to the air. With so many families travelling with us each year, we’re always thinking about how we can make life easier for parents sharing an adventure with kids, especially those flying with toddlers or infants.
O UR CABIN CREW WELC O ME KIDS O N B OARD
“W E’RE AL WAYS T HINK IN G AB O U T H O W W E C A N M AK E L IFE E ASIER F OR PAREN T S S H ARIN G A N A DVEN T U RE W I T H K ID S.” For example, we allow parents to bring up to four large items with them as part of our fare for children under two. This could be a pram, a portable cot or a highchair. We’re the only Australian airline to include four items at no extra cost. We also know parents like to pre-plan their journey and want clear information about the items they can take on board. So we recently introduced pre-departure emails for parents. Tailored to the age of their children, the emails include essential information and helpful tips for a hassle-free flight. I know from experience that parents appreciate a little extra support in the air too. Our cabin crew love seeing children on board and are here to help you so please let them know if you need a hand. Whether you’re flying with kids on their first air adventure or travelling with grown-ups who are young at heart, we hope you enjoy the journey. G ARE T H E VA N S CEO, JE T S TA R G R O U P
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JE T S TAR S O CI AL
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the checklist > ALL THE TRAVEL INTEL YOU NEED NOW
G RE AT O U T D O O RS SAFE T Y PA G E
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PA G E
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> The energy drink Red Bull originated in Bangkok – an early version was invented in 1976 by Chaleo Yoovidhya.
W HI TS U N DAYS
PA G E
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> The largest group of offshore islands in Australia was named by Captain Cook in 1770, after the Christian festival.
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PA G E
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> Still used for coronations, the Throne Hall at Phnom Penh’s ornate Royal Palace has a spire that is 59 metres tall.
P O S TC ARD FR O M
Ari
BANGKOK
—Need time out from temple hopping? Head to this leafy neighbourhood in the city’s north, which is a favourite with locals for its hipster cafés, shopping and galleries—
1 YOONG CHANG Gaa alumni Kulapol Samsen brings some Michelin-starred flair to Ari with the launch of his neo-Chinese restaurant. Enjoy handmade biang biang noodles with fermented soy sauce, sesame oil and fried shallots; Cantonese-style dumplings; and Dongpo pork, smoked American style, teamed with soju and lychee syrup in a traditional brass drinking cup. yoong-chang-restaurant. business.site 2 FRANK MANSION While Ari may be the coffee capital of Bangkok, there are also plenty of options for a night out. Take a seat in this cool bar atop the A-One Ari mall, where they serve curated cocktails. Tuck into tasty bar treats, such as tuna poke with crisp wontons, while enjoying live music. fb.me/frankmansion 3 MUSEUM OF EVERYTHING JINGLEBELL Lovers of all things vintage will fall head over 1950s heels for this tiny store on Soi Ari 2, where every nook is filled with antiques, as well as retro jackets, bags and shoes. Owned by Pang Aurapraphan of fashion brand Vickteerut, it sells everything from Salvatore Ferragamo pumps to Chanel jewellery. And, as every store in this hip neighbourhood has a café, it also serves afternoon tea. fb.me/museumofeveythingjinglebell
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4 GLOC The sign on the window says “It’s nicer in here” and they’re right. Launched by writer, actress and DJ Patcha Poonpiriya, this one-stop multi-brand shop is a must-visit for any fashionista. Within its pastel walls you’ll find local and international fashion brands, lifestyle and beauty products, and clothing and accessories from its eponymous label. Need to quench your thirst? There’s also a small tea bar that serves aromatic blends. glocglocgloc.com
7 NUMTHONG GALLERY This spacious gallery has been wowing art critics and collectors since 1997, with works by both emerging and acclaimed local artists. One of Southeast Asia’s leading galleries, Numthong specialises in film, photography and mixed media. It’s presently undergoing a makeover, but the show-stopping exhibition hall will reopen its doors on 1 October 2019. gallerynumthong.com
WORDS_ CL AIRE TURRELL
6 CALM SPA And relax… this minimalist spa, verdant with leafy green plants, seems light-years away from the neon of Sukhumvit. Choose from an array of soothing treatments including the Signature Calm Massage that combines finger, palm and elbow massage techniques to combat aches and pains. Snap up one of their organic beauty buys as a souvenir. calmspathailand.com
ILL U S T R AT IO N _ G ER G Ő GIL IC ZE
5 DICE! This is an urban café, gaming zone and co-working space rolled into one. Order the signature affogato with coconut ice-cream, then visit the second floor where you can play more than 150 board games. The third floor offers Dungeons & Dragons sessions daily, while the top floors are set up as a co-working space for those who need to log on and rule the business world. Look out for the plant pots made from Lego. dicethailand.com
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7 M Y T H S AB O U T...
Whitsundays —Famous for white sand beaches and colourful coral reefs, this archipelago of dreamy islands is also home to lush rainforests and enticing man-made attractions. Celeste Mitchell discovers the new and improved Whitsundays—
MYTH #3 MYTH #1 There’s nothing to do but lie on the beach > While there are myriad places to relax, there are just as many walking trails that offer another way to explore the coast. Warm up on the Border Island track, which climbs steeply from Cateran Bay and saunters along the island’s “saddle”. On the mainland is the Conway Circuit, a 28-kilometre trek that takes three days. For hard-core action, enter the Hamilton Island Triathlon or Hilly Half Marathon.
MYTH #2 Islands have closed > When Cyclone Debbie tore through the Whitsundays in 2017, she certainly made her mark. Hotels and resorts were left with huge clean-up bills and some were forced to close for renovations. But there’s never been a more exciting time for the region – 2019 has seen a roll-call of reopenings, including the family-friendly Daydream Island (daydreamisland.com), InterContinental Hayman Island Resort (ihg.com) and the Elysian Eco Retreat (elysian retreat.com.au) on Long Island.
Airlie Beach is just for backpackers > Magnums (magnums.com.au) might still beat as the bunk-bed heart of Airlie Beach but the town has matured into a great destination for couples and families. New accommodation options like Freedom Shores Resort (freedomshores.com.au) pair instagrammable digs – hello, boat-shaped cabins – with dining good enough to make you want to stay in. Meanwhile, the Big4 Adventure Whitsunday Resort (adventure whitsunday. com.au) has its own water park with 13 slides.
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H U MPBACK W H ALES C O ME TO T HE WARM WATERS OF T HE W HI TSU N DAYS TO GI VE BIRT H.
MYTH #4 It’s geared for honeymooners > With 74 islands in the archipelago, there are plenty of places to explore beyond the romantic hotspots. Recently reopened Daydream Island (daydreamisland.com) is the ultimate family destination, with interconnecting rooms and its reinvigorated “Living Reef” – an ocean-fed aquarium where marine biologists lead snorkelling tours. Hamilton Island (hamiltonisland.com.au) is also set up for families, with free “By Request” items such as highchairs and jogger prams. And, for a Bear Grylls-style adventure, book a campsite in the national park from $6.55 per person per night or join an expedition with Salty Dog Sea Kayaking (saltydog. com.au).
MYTH #5 It can be dangerous to swim in the ocean > Stingers. Sharks. It’s true that there has been some bad press recently but incidents are rare and, with the right precautions, there’s no reason not to enjoy the Whitsundays’ spectacular underwater world. Guest safety is of the utmost concern for all tourism operators and staff in the region – as long as you heed their advice, including the best places to swim, and respect the environment, it is perfectly safe to take a dip.
MYTH #6 The food scene is not great > With amazing seafood, local coffee and Australian game on the menu, the Whitsundays is a lure for food lovers. Enjoy casual fare at The Garden Bar Bistro (gardenbarbistro.com. au) at Coral Sea Marina and Northerlies (northerlies.com.au) in Woodwark or dive into the tasting menu at Qualia’s hatted Pebble Beach (qualia.com.au).
MYTH #7 You can only visit with a tour group > Yes, day trips are a great way to explore the region but you don’t have to join a tour. One of the best modes for independent travel is to charter a boat with Go Bareboating (gobare boating.com). Can’t tell port from starboard? No matter; you don’t even need a boat licence. After a quick 101 and some hands-on help to get to know your vessel, you’ll be cruising confidently into the sunset. Alternatively, Cruise Whitsundays’ (cruisewhitsundays.com) Reefsleep offers exclusive overnight access to Hardy Reef, with double swags provided, so you can sleep above the fishes and under the stars.
AND 3 TRUTHS There’s a reef in the shape of a heart > A flight over Heart Reef is top of the to-do list for most Whitsundays visitors. Now you can fly by helicopter to Heart Island pontoon for a glass-bottom boat tour and snorkelling in a nearby lagoon. Only six guests on a champagne budget are allowed (hamiltonisland.com.au). Whitehaven is one of the world’s best beaches > With seven kilometres of 98 per cent pure white silica sand, Whitehaven has undeniable appeal. Swim in the clear waters or head to Hill Inlet lookout to take in its beauty. A 20-kilometre walking track to the summit of Whitsunday Craig, the fourth-highest peak on the island, is now being built. Humpbacks holiday here > Thousands of humpback whales come to the warm waters of the Whitsundays to give birth between June and September. It’s impossible to guarantee their location but those with a keen eye will easily spot whales from their balcony or boat charter – even the newborns are about four metres long and weigh around two tonnes.
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T R AVEL H ACK
Tread lightly —Want to know how to ace zero-waste travel? A little planning and a small stash of reusable necessities is all it takes to reduce your environmental footprint— B O OK IN G.
EAT IN G.
> Set yourself up for a zero-waste holiday by booking hotels and tours that are committed to the cause. Waste-conscious operators typically offer sustainable alternatives to items such as single-use plastics, making it easier for you to follow suit.
> Make a zero-waste kit containing reusable alternatives to single-use items you may encounter when dining out such as cutlery, a food storage container and a cloth napkin (which handily doubles as a hanky). There are plenty of apps and websites designed to help combat food waste too – for example, responsiblecafes.org includes an interactive map of coffee shops around Australia that offer a discount for bringing your own cup, while the Foodprint app allows you to purchase cheap food from Auckland restaurants with surplus nosh.
> Stock up on low-waste travel products. A growing number of beauty brands produce plastic-free toiletries, while handy accessories such as head torches are now available in USB-rechargeable models (bye-bye, batteries!). When you purchase new travel gear, opt for items that can be worn or used long after your next adventure.
DRINK IN G. > Keep a reusable water bottle and coffee cup in your daypack to avoid the temptation to use disposable alternatives when you're on the go. And remember to order your holiday cocktails sans a disposable straw.
3 ESSEN TIALS FOR T HE ZERO-WASTE TR AVELLER
EXPLORIN G. > Opt for digital tickets whenever possible and save paper by snapping photos of tour brochures with your smartphone rather than taking pamphlets with you. Pay it forward by picking up rubbish on the road or beach when you can.
SLEEPIN G. > Carry a good-quality sleeping mask and ear plugs so you won’t be tempted to reach for the disposable ones on flights and in hotels. And think twice before using complimentary single-use products such as slippers, which are typically tossed out after your stay.
> A water filtration device like a LifeStraw allows you to drink tap water anywhere. > DIY hand sanitiser eliminates the need to buy a disposable bottle of the stuff – there are plenty of recipes online. > A micro-waste washing bag like the Guppyfriend prevents microplastic fibres from synthetic travel clothing being washed into rivers and oceans, where fish typically mistake them for food.
ILL U S T R AT IO N _ R O SIE A PP S
PACK IN G.
SH OPPIN G. > Stash a reusable tote in your daypack so you never have to accept a single-use bag for spontaneous purchases. It's also worth seeking out well-made souvenirs crafted from sustainable materials as they're less likely to end up in the bin (or charity shop) when you return home.
WORDS_ SARAH REID
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TR AVEL TREN D S
Keeper’s secret —As more people seek out extraordinary accommodations, historic lighthouses that have been reborn as unique stays are trending. Here are six spectacular spots where you can play lighthouse guard for a night or two—
BY R O N B AY, N S W
CAPE BYRON LIGHTHOUSE
CAPE BYR O N L IG H T H O USE
W O R D S_ R A C H EL G R AY
POINT HICKS LIGHTHOUSE
> Wake to sunrise at Australia’s most easterly point, staying in one of two three-bedroom Lighthouse Keepers’ cottages, which are a very accessible 30-minute hike up a well-paved walkway from Byron Bay township (or a 10-minute drive). The Insta-worthy Cape Byron Lighthouse, home to the nation’s most powerful beacon, is open to the public for tours from 8am until sunset. But with an overnight stay, you’ll enjoy uninterrupted views of Byron’s beaches and get the rugged headland to yourself all night long.
E A S T GIPP SL A N D, V IC
POINT HICKS LIGHTHOUSE > This one marks the spot where Captain Cook’s lieutenant, Zachary Hicks, first sighted the Australian mainland aboard the Endeavour in April 1770. More than 100 years later, the towering 39-metre lighthouse was built in 1890 and alongside it are two cottages and a bungalow made from timber salvaged from 19th-century shipwrecks. Bring binoculars and hiking boots because there’s plenty of birdwatching, bush and beach walking. Or venture through the teal door and up the spiral staircase for a complimentary tour of the lighthouse.
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MONTAGUE ISLAND LIGHTHOUSE > Home to penguin and seal colonies, this windswept island nine kilometres off Narooma is visited by more than 90 species of seabirds, as well as pods of passing whales and dolphins. The granite lighthouse dates back to 1881 and the only accommodation options on the 81-hectare nature reserve are the five-bedroom lighthouse keeper’s or the three-bedroom assistant lighthouse keeper’s cottages.
WILS O NS PR O M O N TORY L IG H TS TATIO N
GIPP SL A N D, V IC
WILSONS PROMONTORY LIGHTSTATION
C O UPLES CA N STAY AT BA NKS C OT TAGE, W I T H
> The only way to get to this spot is via a sweat-inducing 19-kilometre hike but it’s the isolation that makes the trek worth it. Couples can stay at Banks Cottage, with spectacular views of Bass Strait and the “comfiest bed you’ll find”, according to chief ranger Brent Moran. Or a group of friends can spend the weekend huddled in one of two bungalows, as salted winds howl outside. From Melbourne Airport, it’s a 3.5-hour drive south to Telegraph Saddle car park, from where the walk to the 1859-built granite lighthouse begins.
SPEC TAC UL AR V IE WS OF BASS STR A I T.
G RE AT O C E A N R O A D, V IC
CAPE OTWAY LIGHTSTATION > Having weathered more than 170 stormy years, the 1848-built Cape Otway Lightstation is Australia’s oldest surviving lighthouse. You can choose to stay in either the renovated rustic Lighthouse Keeper’s cottage, a lodge or a smaller studio, then venture out to climb the 78 steps of the sandstone lighthouse for dramatic clifftop views 90 metres above where the rolling Bass Strait and Southern Ocean collide. Bonus: there’s a café and daily tours.
K A N G A R O O ISL A N D, S A
CAPE OT WAY L IG H T H O USE
Peter Tarasiuk
CAPE BORDA LIGHTHOUSE > Perched on cliffs on the north-west tip of Kangaroo Island, the beacon from this historic lightstation cuts through the night over the Investigator Strait. Stay over in the three-bedroom Flinders Light Lodge or in one of two smaller huts, which are a two-hour drive south of Adelaide, followed by a 45-minute crossing on the SeaLink Ferry. During the day, join a tour of the 1858-built square lighthouse and make sure you’re around as the island’s cannon, once used to warn ships during fog, is fired at 12.30pm.
S N APS H O T SA N TI N U NEZ
Koh Rong Island This paradise isle, a 40-minute ferry ride from Sihanoukville, is home to a number of beaches and piers, which are best accessed by shuttle boat or traditional longtail vessel.
Two sides of
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Angkor Wat Buddhist monks are among the many visitors who make the pilgrimage to the Siem Reap temple, said to have been built in the 12th century by 300,000 workers – and 6000 elephants.
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> Ensure your adventure is suited to your experience and fitness level. Know where you’re going, the track conditions and camp-site availability. According to Tasmanian intensive care wilderness and flight paramedic Dave Brown, who has seen his share of mishaps, from twisted ankles to hypothermia, “The wilderness experience is magical but it can be harsh and unforgiving – plan well and respect nature.”
# 2 WATC H T HE WEAT HER.
> Conditions can change quickly. In some places, snow, rain, wind and sun are possible at any time of year so ensure you have equipment for all weather. Pack waterproof shell-wear and a beanie (even in summer). Be prepared to change or adapt your itinerary or even return home. And remember, what time the sun sets depends on the season (bom.gov.au).
# 3 PACK RIG H T.
> An appropriate waterproof coat, a temperature-rated sleeping bag, a tent and a first-aid kit are all non-negotiables, in addition to personal safety supplies. Layer clothing so you can easily adapt to varying conditions; avoid cotton which sucks heat from your body and opt for merino wool, which is warm and odour-resistant. Wear well-fitting waterproof walking shoes and carry a change of dry clothes.
Play it safe —Adventure, challenge and escape await when you head into the great outdoors. Here’s how to be prepared for anything—
# 4 FUEL YO URSELF.
> Include carbs such as pasta and two-minute noodles in your meals. Dehydrated meals (from beef casserole to vegetable curry) are great options, as are snacks such as nuts, dried fruit, jerky, salami, cheese and chocolate. Remember your Jetboil for hot water and always carry sufficient water (a hydration bladder is ideal). Experts suggest packing 1.5 times more food than you think you’ll need.
“T HE WIL DERNESS EXPERIEN CE IS M AGICAL B U T I T CA N BE H ARSH.”
# 5 S TAY IN TO U C H.
> Log your trip with the closest visitor centre, in track and hut logs and with a reliable friend – include an itinerary and action plan as well as a 24-hour contact in case of emergency. Research mobile coverage and pack a personal locator beacon (PLB) – which can transmit distress signals to authorities – and a satellite phone; both can be hired at numerous places (epirbhire.com.au). Alternatively, the Garmin InReach Explorer + has GPS and SOS (explore.garmin.com).
# 6 PL A N A ND PAU SE.
> Take time to think before you act if something untoward happens. “Unwise decisions are usually made in rushed moments,” says Dave. Take a deep breath and your survival instincts will usually guide you to the best solution.
WORDS_ DANIELLE ROSS WALLS
# 1 D O YO UR RESEARC H.
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F OR CE —The demand for sustainability is shaping the way we travel. Get set to be blown away by five eco attractions around Australia that harness the power of the elements— 01. All aboard W O R D S_ R A C H EL G R AY
BYRON BAY, NSW
Take a joy ride on the world’s first sun-powered locomotive. Charged by rooftop solar panels that feed into a lithium-ion battery, the Byron Bay Train chugs through eucalypt-scented bushland and over the tea-tree tinted Belongil Creek on its trip between Byron Beach and North Beach stations. The scenic journey takes about 10 minutes and costs $4 each way or you can upgrade to the Ride in Style package, which is $25 return and includes a meal and a drink at a local restaurant. byronbaytrain.com.au
02. Green wine BAROSSA VALLEY, SA
You might not get to see all 5384 solar panels installed at three Yalumba sites but this Barossa Valley winemaker (which has been on the eco-friendly bandwagon since the mid-90s) partnered with AGL in 2016 to create Australia’s largest solar installation at a winery. In the last few years the family-run business has managed to reduce its annual CO2 emissions by an estimated 1200 tonnes – that’s the equivalent of taking 340 cars off the road. Take a trip to Yalumba’s Angaston winery, where you can celebrate this achievement by raising a glass of The Signature, a blend of cabernet sauvignon and shiraz. yalumba.com
Bernard Winter, Sven Kovac
TR AVEL TREN D S
BYR O N BAY TR AIN
03. Turbine tour LEONARDS HILL, VIC
Be astonished by the magnitude of the two turbines at Hepburn Wind farm, about 90 minutes’ drive north-west of Melbourne. These hardworking 21st-century windmills pump out enough clean energy to power more than 2000 homes and are also pieces of public art – the characters painted on the towers by artists including Ghostpatrol are nicknamed Gale and Gusto. Register your interest for an open day or tour of this community-owned project and to stay with the eco theme, stop for the night at Melbourne’s Alto Hotel on Bourke – it’s 100 per cent green powered. hepburnwind.com.au; altohotel.com.au
T HE GALE M UR AL AT HEPB URN WIND FARM, VIC TORIA
04. Power trip SNOWY MOUNTAINS, NSW
A M ASSI VE WATER-P O WERED ELEC TRICI T Y SC HEME, IS O NE OF T HE CI V IL EN GINEERIN G W O N DERS OF T HE W ORL D.
The Snowy Hydro, a massive water-powered electricity scheme nestled in the Snowy Mountains near the southern border of NSW, is one of the civil-engineering wonders of the world. Completed in 1974, it took 100,000 people from 30 countries around 25 years to build – today it redirects water to drought-ridden farms and provides electricity for towns from Queensland to Tasmania. Starting at Cooma’s Snowy Hydro Discovery Centre, a 1.5-hour drive south of Canberra, head out on a self-guided tour of this marvel and stop to gape at points along the eco-giant’s 145 kilometres of tunnels, 16 major dams and 80 kilometres of aqueducts. snowyhydro.com.au YALU MBA, BAR O S SA VALLEY
T HE SN O W Y H Y DR O,
05. Fly like the wind CAPITAL REGION, ACT & NSW
Choose an eco-scenic route on your next Sydney to Melbourne road trip. A detour off the Hume Highway onto the Federal Highway will reward with views of the magnificent Capital and Woodlawn wind farms from rest stops that look out over Lake George. Keep driving south on the Majura Parkway, which skirts Canberra’s east, and on to the Monaro Highway for a half-hour journey along the “Solar Highway” – a 40-kilometre stretch of road that glimmers with endless rows of silicone solar panels basking in the sun.
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TEC H N OL O GY
Update —Gear, Gear, apps, tech talk and more—
Google Pixel 3a
$649
> Superior hardware with software smarts gives this smartphone an incredible low-light camera and portrait mode photography. The 12MP rear camera also shoots video at up to 240fps at 720p – great for sports and travel adventures. With a 1080p display for high-definition video and gaming, plus an all-day battery, it’s premium smartphone hardware that won’t bust the bank. store.google.com
RHA Wireless Flight Adapter
$75
> This smart audio adapter will give any device a wireless edge. Using the latest Bluetooth 5 aptX technology, it offers up to 16 hours of wireless connectivity with a handheld game console, in-flight entertainment system or any device with a 3.5mm headphone jack. It even streams audio to two devices, so you can share that movie with a friend on a flight – genius. amazon.com
WORDS_ MARK GAMBINO
Sphero Specdrums
$170
> Create music and beats with this high-tech toy that makes music by translating any colour into a sound. Download the Specdrums MIX app, then tap colours on the playing pad with the ring-like devices, which the app turns into tunes. You can explore the world around you by tapping any coloured surface – like a magazine, coffee mug or street sign – and also download a range of user-generated content to explore new instruments and beats. apple.com/au
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High-powered tablets > There’s probably no better time to embrace the tablet PC – aka the laptop killer – than now. Available in many hardware configurations and sizes, there’s one for every purpose. Many tablet displays now offer 1080p HD equivalent resolution, regardless of the screen size ratio, and up to 3K HDR displays on premium tablets. For digital drawing and design, a high-res screen is a must. Display brightness is usually spoken of in “nits” – the higher the number, the brighter the screen. The processors driving modern tablets are now capable of powering desktop-class apps. The more powerful the chip, the more you can accomplish. Be mindful, though; with great power comes great prices. If you only intend to send emails and browse the web, there’s no need to spend a lot of money on a powerful tablet. Your choice of operating system will go hand-in-hand with the hardware you choose, be it Apple’s iOS, Google’s Android or Microsoft’s Windows. While similar, the apps available for each can vary. Likewise, tablets will either be Wi-Fi only, or both Wi-Fi and cellular, which you will need a data plan with a mobile carrier to use when away from Wi-Fi.
Journi Blog
3 to try... #1 APPLE IPAD MINI FROM $599 This 7.9-inch tablet features True Tone, for accurate white balance, and a 500-nit anti-reflective screen. The A12 chip, a sibling to the A12X powering the iPad Pros, is suitable for processor-intensive apps and games. apple.com/au #2 LENOVO TAB E10 $199 This inexpensive 10.1-inch tablet is ideal for media streaming, browsing and email. A microSD expansion slot offers plenty of storage options and a bright display with a wide viewing angle make sharing your screen easy. lenovo.com #3 SAMSUNG GAL A XY TAB A 10.1 FROM $349 A large 2GB of RAM and 32GB of storage give you entertainment options aplenty to explore on the tablet’s HD display and Dolby Atmos speakers. Up to 13 hours of battery will keep you busy on long trips. shop.samsung.com/au
Our invisible future > Gone are the days of flicking switches, turning knobs and pressing buttons. Say hello to ultrasonic haptics – a new technology that uses focused ultrasonic waves to generate the effect of a physical device (switches and buttons) in mid air. Invisible to the human eye, ultrasonic haptics will allow you to simply reach for thin air and grasp an imaginary dial instead of a physical one, which you can feel and operate in the exact same way – yes, like in sci-fi movies. This tech is set to make its way into homes in the next five to 10 years, with everything from light switches to washing machines and computers operated with nothing more than a mid-air flick of your fingers.
IO S + A N DR OID Document your adventures or everyday life in this online journal, which can be set to private for your own record, shared with friends and family, or shared publicly. Journi will also produce an interactive map from geo-tagged photos. You can even order a photo book or calendar of your journal to relive the memories. journiapp.com
Surfline IO S + A N DR OID A mobile version of the surfing website lets you check live video cams at over 500 beaches around the globe with swell forecasts and surf reports, as well as general weather conditions. Check beaches near you or save favourites to see conditions up to 17 days in advance, with twice daily updates and storm alerts to keep you safe. discover.surfline. com/app/
Explore Gold Coast at the Top SkyPoint is Australia’s only beachside observation deck and boasts Australia’s highest external building climb, SkyPoint Climb. Located at the top of the Q1 building, SkyPoint is a one of a kind experience and the perfect start to your holiday on the Gold Coast.
15% off
Observation Deck and Climb Use code: JETSTAR15 to redeem online
Book now skypoint.com.au
Terms and conditions apply: 15% discount code available to use at skypoint.com.au Offer available on SkyPoint Observation Deck single & multi day admission tickets only. Offer available on SkyPoint Climb – subject to availability (excludes Sunrise Climb and Climb & Dine tickets). Excludes SkyPoint tickets with food and beverage inclusions, ticketed and special events and family products. Does not include access to special ticketed events. Tickets are not transferable, cannot be sold and are not redeemable for cash. Cannot be used with any other offer.
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In the know —The latest buzz on where to play, stay and holiday—
IN S TALL AT IO N
Seeds of change Sydney’s plant paradise Eden Gardens has opened its gates to Eden Unearthed, the fourth edition of an annual art exhibition focusing on environmental issues (on until 31 January). Come to see the $10,000 prize-winning The Corporate Snake, Jan Cleveringa’s intricate sculpture made from 5000 discarded light bulbs, but stay to enjoy the 41 other pieces – from interactive sound installations to textile works. Situated in Macquarie Park, Eden Gardens also has a kids’ art trail and school-holiday workshops. edengardens.com.au
N E W H O T EL
Elemental
WORDS_ DEBORAH GRUNFELD
Found. Your home away from home in Melbourne. Nestled near the Yarra in Richmond, the newly opened Element by Westin pampers its guests with free Wi-Fi, eco-friendly bikes (for the 8.5-kilometre cycle to the city’s CBD) and complimentary snacks. The pet-friendly hotel also offers dog beds and K9 treats in the mini bar. The 163 energy-efficient rooms have signature Westin Heavenly Beds and spa bathrooms and, as an opening special, come with a healthy breakfast (including chef-made omelettes) and a bottle of wine. (Offer valid until 30 September.) elementmelbournerichmond.com
EN V IR O N M EN T
Tree-mendous effort To celebrate 25 years in business, luxury chain Banyan Tree Hotels & Resorts aims to plant 25,000 trees by the end of 2019 as part of its Stay for Good Greening Communities Program. Anniversary offers for the brand, which prides itself on its sustainable ethos, include a complimentary Exceptional Experience for guests, who can participate in a community activity. banyantree.com
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Far East fusion
The hottest hot air balloon rides around Australia —Float high above the ground and enjoy a bird’s-eye view of the landscape below. These four options are serene – and green—
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> FLY ME TO THE MOON BRISBANE, QLD
> BALLOON ALOFT BYRON BAY, NSW
> GLOBAL BALLOONING AUSTRALIA YARRA VALLEY, VIC
> WINDWARD BALLOON ADVENTURES AVON VALLEY, WA
Great name, great ethos. This company prides itself on being the first Australian hot air venture to adopt an eco policy. brisbanehotair ballooning.com.au
Try to decide which is more delicious – being one of the first to see the sunrise in Australia or a post-flight breakfast at the renowned Three Blue Ducks. balloonaloft.com
Imbibe views of the vineyards (above), an hour from Melbourne, then take a tour of the wineries. globalballooning. com.au
It’s only a 90-minute drive from Perth but it feels like you’re a world away from the city, hovering over the scenic Avon River. ballooning.net.au
> The love child of celebrated chefs Chase Kojima and Victor Liong, new restaurant Chuuka offers a confluence of Chinese and Japanese flavours in a hip industrial space on a historic wharf in Sydney’s Pyrmont. Expect creative dishes such as bang bang chicken with yuzu kosho and Wagyu short rib with carrot kimchi. Wash it down with cocktails and end with innovative desserts – Japanese purple yam ice-cream, anyone? chuuka.com.au
Up, up and… > Away is the luggage brand you never knew you needed. Designed for the modern traveller, the range of suitcases, duffel bags, backpacks and travel accessories combines functional features – think hidden laundry bags and an ejectable battery for on-the-go phone charging – with sleek, stylish finishes. Some pieces come with a lifetime guarantee too. awaytravel.com
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THINGS YOU DIDN’T KNOW
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T HE C HECKL IS T
C ALEN DAR
SEPTEMBER NO MATTER WHERE YOU ARE THIS MONTH, THERE’S PLENTY TO ENJOY...
ENTERTAINMENT
MELBOURNE Circus Oz 18.09.19-06.10.19
Six talented acrobats and two musicians bring the elemental story of Aurora to life under the Big Top at the Royal Botanic Gardens. circusoz.com
MUSIC
AFL Grand Final
BRISBANE
28.09.19
Guy Sebastian Ridin’ With You
Secure your ticket for a seat among 100,000 or so fans who will pack into the iconic Melbourne Cricket Ground for Australia’s biggest footy day of the year. afleventoffice.com.au
22.09.19
MELBOURNE
SPORT
Former Australian Idol-turned pop singing sensation Guy Sebastian will perform at the QPAC Concert Hall as part of his nationwide tour. guysebastian.com/tour
T H E C H ECKL IS T
Table Cape Tulip Farm Open Days
SPORT
SYDNEY
26.09.19-31.10.19
Frolic amongst the tulips on a flower farm in an extinct volcano vent on the Tasmanian coast for some seriously Insta-worthy cred. tablecapetulipfarm.com.au
T H E RE’S A D AY F O R T H AT ?!
Golden Rose Stakes 28.09.19
The biggest event of the Spring Racing Carnival (August to October) this month is the 1400-metre Golden Rose Stakes. australianturfclub.com.au
International Literacy Day 08.09.19
MUSIC
ALICE SPRINGS Desert Song Festival 06-15.09.19
The award-winning Soweto Gospel Choir headline 10 days of concerts and workshops in the heart of outback Australia. desertsong.com.au
Roald Dahl Day
SPORT
Guacamole Day
ADEL AIDE HILLS
13.09.19
16.09.19
20-22.09.19
TA S M A N I A
SPRING
2019 Adelaide Hills Rally Secure a spot at one of the spectator points to see rally cars race along gravel roads around Mount Barker. rally.com.au/adelaidehills
International Day of Peace
Melbourne Fringe 12-29.09.19
The city plays host to about 3000 artists as they present dance, art, theatre, music and more across at least 170 venues. melbournefringe.com.au
ARTS
Take the kids to Perth’s biggest annual agricultural show for a day of amusement rides, farm animals, exhibitions, entertainment and showbags. perthroyalshow.com.au
MELBOURNE
PERTH
FAMILY
21.09.19
Perth Royal Show 28.09.19-05.10.19
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READ THE FINE PRINT AND MAKE SURE YOU CAN KEEP YOUR KEYS It’s easy to fall for the relaxed nature of an airport Meet and Greet service where you are seamlessly picked up in your own car but these cars are often carelessly driven to a muddy field several kilometres away. Holidaymakers can sometimes get speeding fines while they’re away or even return to find new dents and scratches on their vehicles! Some airport car parks will still request you leave your keys behind even if you choose a self-park option. This is so cars can be moved around like a game of Tetris when the car park is full. A tip would be to separate your house keys from your car keys so you’re only leaving your car keys behind but there’s nothing to stop them from racing your vehicle out of the car park either, clocking up additional kilometres! Make sure to read the fine print and ask yourself, would you trust your car keys to a stranger? When you park with Park on King, you’ll find your car exactly where you left it because you get to keep your keys. BOOK EARLY IN CASE THE CAR PARK IS FULL
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the traveller > WHERE TO GO NEXT
FIJI SE O UL PA G E PA G E
06 8 050 GIL I ISL A N D S
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> These Indonesian isles are car-free by law so explore by bike, horse-drawn cart or shanks’s pony.
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> With 52 kilometres of beach to patrol, the tourist paradise is home to Australia’s largest professional lifeguard service.
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> The Maoris, who settled here 800 years ago, call this New Zealand region the Land of Glistening Waters.
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—Surrounded by the turquoise waters of the Lombok Strait, the Gili Islands are renowned for their palm-fringed beaches and magical sunsets. But as Laura Waters discovers, the islands’ most spectacular scenery can be found under the sea where divers and snorkellers explore enchanting coral reefs and encounter giant turtles—
RLD
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I readjust the bag on my shoulder and stare at a handpainted map on the wall of the dive shop.
Tommy Schultz
PREPARIN G TO DIVE
TR ADITIO N AL O U TRIG GER B OATS
Scattered across its azure seas and bright-green islands are the names of dive sites: Secret Reef, The Bounty, Good Heart and Shark Point, to name a few. I feel as though I’ve fallen into the pages of Robert Louis Stevenson’s 1883 novel Treasure Island until a sudden and noisy blast of air escaping from a scuba tank behind me whips at my legs, drawing me back to the 21st century. I’m in the Gili Islands of Indonesia, on my way to visit Turtle Heaven, one of eight dive sites I’m going to explore over the next four days. Despite having nearly 400 dives under my belt, the thrill of discovery hasn’t waned and within an hour I’m gleefully backward-rolling from a wooden outrigger into the balmy waters of the Lombok Strait. With me are two local guides from Laguna Gili Dive Center (lagunagilidiveresort.com) and four experienced Aussies, the combined dive count between us nudging well into the thousands. I sink to 10 metres, where the current becomes a gentle, calming sway. Piled beneath me are what feels like thousands of discus-shaped mushroom corals in shades of lilac, yellow, pink and green. It’s like I’m swimming through an upside-down party. Casually finning our way past the colourful party guests, we drift to a mound 50 metres away and there, lounging between coral heads, are our turtles – a dozen giants around a metre long. The map is right – this place does feel like heaven. I slowly drift towards a large turtle, admiring the intricate patterns that adorn its shell, and then our eyes meet. I feel a connection, an awareness of each other’s existence, but then he tires of me, turns away and gets on with his day under the sea. The turtles of the Gili Islands certainly aren’t shy. They, along with pastel coral gardens, shipwrecks and beaches with powder-soft sand, are one of the main reasons visitors flock here.
A H ORSE-DR AW N TA XI
A N IN Q UISITIVE T URTLE
“I SLO WLY DRIF T TO WARD S A L AR GE T URTLE, A D MIRIN G T HE IN TRICATE PAT TERNS T H AT A D ORN I TS SHELL, A N D T HEN O UR E YES MEE T.”
Forty kilometres east of Bali – or 15 minutes by boat from Lombok – these three coral isles are surrounded by dreamy aquamarine water. Each has its own vibe but all offer, essentially, varying states of relaxation. Originally settled by Sasak and Bugis farmers who planted coconut groves, the islands are now popular with backpackers, families and expats in search of an escapist paradise. Gili Meno is the least developed, offering a chance to play Robinson Crusoe, while Gili Air has a balance of comfortable accommodation and chilled bars. At 6.5 kilometres in circumference, Gili Trawangan is the largest and liveliest, with clubs cranking up nightly near the harbour. It’s here, on its most populated east coast, that I’m staying. Swaying palms line white sand shores and discreet accommodation ranges from basic to luxury. It’s peaceful save for the occasional call to prayer from a mosque (the Gilis are predominantly Muslim, in contrast with the Balinese who are mostly Hindus) or the jingling bells of a passing horse and cart.
GIL I LO CALS
A decree against motorised transport has kept it this way, a kind of enforced simplicity that means people must move about on foot, by bicycle or on colourful horse-driven taxis. It invites a slower pace of life and barefoot culture rules. “No shoes, no shirt, no problem,” assures the sign upon entry at Scallywags Seafood Bar & Grill (scallywagsresort.com) on Gili Trawangan’s southern shore. The three islands invite visitors to unwind and lose days to the lure of a sun lounge and the gentle lapping of the Lombok Strait but I resist. I’m here to slip beneath the surface, to see a world far removed from the terrestrial one. I thrive on experiencing things I haven’t encountered before and my moment with a green turtle is one of them. Such glimpses expand my perspective and show me a world beyond the one my human brain is familiar with.
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Tommy Schultz
GIL I ISL A N D S
In Turtle Heaven, it doesn’t take long for another resident to raise its bulk slightly on two flippers and I see that it has been sitting on a smug-looking octopus. A game of peekaboo ensues as the slippery character retreats and rises again from under the turtle’s shell – it’s another moment that fills me with the exhilaration of discovery and leaves me in awe of the wonders of nature. “We are very proud of our turtles,” says John Rahasia, manager at Laguna Gili Dive Center. The islands are a nesting site and John explains that the combined efforts of dive shops and the local community have helped protect nests and ensure as many eggs as possible hatch. “When divers join Laguna Gili they sign an agreement not to touch or harass marine life or collect shells,” says John. He understands that divers expect ethical and responsible diving and environmental practices. Dive shops collect donations for Gili Eco Trust, which was founded to protect reefs from destructive fishing practices and has expanded its activities to waste management and sustainable eco tourism. With two morning dives complete, my afternoons are free to relax or explore the narrow backstreets. I wander the dirt roads of Gili Trawangan, past private homes and the odd tiny shop, engaging with locals more interested in a friendly chat than making a sale. The underwater quest continues at Kecinan Bay on Lombok’s north-west coast the next day. Amongst the rubble and tufts of sea grass hide wondrous creatures: thorny seahorses hovering with tiny dorsal fins fluttering to a blur and brilliant blue ribbon eels. A basketball-sized blob hangs upside down, stumpy back “legs” outstretched between two mooring ropes. I wouldn’t have spotted it if it weren’t for my dive buddy’s beckoning. “Ah yes, the giant frogfish,” he tells me when we resurface later. Missing a swim bladder, they use modified pectoral fins to walk over the sea floor and my inner treasure hunter is elated when I later spot one in action. Good snorkelling can be found directly offshore (on Gili Trawangan, the north-west coast is best) and other spots can be reached by boat. One site off Gili Meno is literally a work of art. Nest is the creation of British sculptor Jason deCaires Taylor, a ring of 15 life-sized couples, with solitary figures curled on the seabed at a depth of four metres. For those ready to go deeper, Gili Trawangan is the ideal place to
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NEST, A N U NDER WATER SC ULP T URE BY JAS O N DECAIRES TAYLOR
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SHORE BREAK Diving is just one of the Gili Isands’ attractions. Here are some things to do back on dry land.
Sky gazing > Sunsets on the west coast of Gili Trawangan are legendary, almost cinematic in drama and scale. Watch the show at one of the chilled beach bars offering beanbags and cocktails on the sand or perch on the giant ocean swing at Hotel Ombak Sunset. Alternatively, ride a horse on the beach as the sky swirls pink, orange and purple. ombaksunset.com
Night markets SN ORKELL IN G OFF GIL I TR AWA N GA N
learn to dive. The water hovers at a welcoming 27-29°C and there are around 26 dive shops, some with truly state-of-the-art facilities. Laguna Gili’s 4.5-metre-deep training pool makes practice descents easy. The Gili Islands’ 30 dive sites are all easily accessible and cover a multitude of terrain. Deep Turbo, north east of Gili Trawangan, reveals swathes of intricate red sea fans and coral whips, while white tip reef sharks cruise Shark Point off its west coast. The Bounty – a sunken pontoon off Gili Meno – lies at 20 metres, encrusted with coral and teeming with fish life. At the end of day four, I rinse the salt from my body for the last time and choose from the many restaurants, illuminated by fairy lights strung between sprawling kapok trees, that spill onto the beach. Toes buried in the sand, I scribble notes in my dive log, recording the odd, unforgettable and magical things I’ve seen. No matter how widely travelled we are, there are always new frontiers to explore, new discoveries to make and it’s the lure of what I might find that keeps me sinking below the surface time and again. It seems that handpainted map I studied on my first day on Gili Trawangan was a treasure map after all. JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O B AL I.
“I T’S T HE LURE OF W H AT I MIG H T FIN D T H AT KEEPS ME SINK IN G BELO W T HE SURFACE T IME A N D AGA IN.”
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> The delicious scent of barbecued meat and seafood begins to drift through the air when a night market awakens near the ferry terminal on Gili Trawangan’s east coast. Pull up a plastic chair and tuck into a plate of curry.
Island hopping > Skip between the Gili Islands using local boat services that run the loop twice daily. It’s just a 15-minute boat ride to Lombok and its many attractions, including Gunung Rinjani, an active volcano.
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—The South Korean capital is fast paced, high tech and high rise. But in the cities of Seoul and neighbouring Incheon, you’ll find plenty that appeals to kids (and the young at heart). Simon Tsang ticks off seven attractions the whole family will love—
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> One of the joys of exploring Seoul is visiting its traditional outdoor markets. The most famous of these is Namdaemun Market, the oldest and largest in South Korea. Here you can find just about anything and it’s easy to lose yourself in the labyrinth of stalls and stands. The multi-storey section dedicated to children’s clothes will probably excite parents more than kids but they will love the variety of toys, souvenirs and fun accessories on display. Don’t miss fantastic street food like mandu (Korean dumplings) and hotteok – a sweet pancake with an oozing filling made from honey, brown sugar, peanuts and cinnamon. namdaemunmarket.co.kr
> Seoul has plenty of amusement parks to choose from, including dedicated water parks, but Lotte World has the advantage of being conveniently located in the city and is easily reached via the subway. It includes one of the largest indoor theme parks in the world – there’s even a giant ice-skating rink and a folk museum in the complex (yes, a folk museum next to an ice-skating rink!). Bigger kids and thrillseeking adults will get a kick out of the larger outdoor rides, such as the Gyro Drop (you’ll get a great view of the city before plummeting to the ground), the Atlantis roller-coaster and flume ride (brace yourself for the acceleration at the start) and the French Revolution roller-coaster (true to its name, there are a lot of loops). There’s even an onsite hotel with themed “character rooms” – some with views of the indoor section of the park. adventure.lotteworld.com; lottehotel.com
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> Songdo is a new high-tech city built on reclaimed land off the coast of Incheon. Its main green space is Central Park, which is a stark contrast to the gleaming skyscrapers that surround it. The mainly wooden buildings on the edge of the park are designed to resemble traditional hanok villages and are intended as an antidote to all the modernity. The Gyeongwonjae Ambassador Incheon Hotel (ambatel.com) is a spectacular example of this. Take a stroll, visit the resident animals, including rabbits and deer, or hire a bike or pedal car and let your kids burn off some energy. To cap off the day, rent an electric-powered boat and cruise the canal that runs through the middle of Central Park. DEER IN CEN TR AL PARK
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The Australian War Memorial commemorates the sacrifice of Australians who have died in war. It is the place where visitors come to understand the nation’s soul and honours the people who gave their lives to defend and protect our values and freedom. The Memorial is a world-class museum, shrine of remembrance, research centre and an archive of Australia’s military history. With exhibitions, artworks, significant military objects and personal records, it tells the stories of service to our nation. A highlights audio tour is also available in multiple languages.
www.awm.gov.au
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Robert Evans
> Perched on top of Mt Namsan, N Seoul Tower is the place to go for the best view of the city. Take the cable car up the mountain and let the kids run free in the forecourt, where there are water sprays in summer and occasional cultural shows and demonstrations. Shops, cafés and food outlets surround the tower and there are special exhibits to explore. Check out Hello Kitty Island (which features furnished rooms from Hello Kitty’s house) and media art installations created from OLED panels, including a nine-metre long tunnel, before heading up to the observatory decks for 360-degree views of Seoul. Be sure to visit the Sky Restroom for a public loo with the best view in the city. nseoultower.co.kr
EN JOY A VR EXPERIEN CE
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> If the weather isn’t cooperating, there are plenty of indoor attractions to keep the kids entertained. Visit a virtual-reality (VR) café where you can rent rooms or try rides that allow you to experience everything from extreme sports to roller-coasters through the trickery of VR goggles. Some cafés are better equipped than others – the basic ones allow you to experience familiar video games in an immersive way, while state-of-the-art facilities have motion-equipped rides. For a more authentic activity, look for an indoor screen baseball centre. It’s like a batting cage but you hit the ball into a screen where there are virtual fielders. While the pitcher and players are digital, the ball, bat and your swing are very real.
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RACE DOW N A MO U NTAIN > It’s a little out of the way, and best reached by car, but the recently opened Mega Luge at Ganghwa Seaside Resort is worth the effort. The “luges” are basically wheeled karts you steer down a winding mountain track. Take the gondola up the mountain, jump on a luge and let gravity do its thing. There are two tracks to choose from and you can roll down the mountain as a group – so you can race your friends (or kids) all the way to the bottom. Don’t worry, you can go as fast or slow as you like just by pulling back on the handlebars to brake. Get a multiple ride pass (trust me, you’ll want to go again) and visit the revolving restaurant in the tower at the top of the mountain before your final run. ganghwa-resort.co.kr
JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O SE O UL.
10 MILLIO N PEOPLE LIVE IN T HE CIT Y OF SEO UL.
> Famous as the location of several Korean TV dramas, Wolmi Theme Park’s old-school carnival-by-the-sea feel sets it apart from the city-based amusement parks. About an hour from Seoul on Incheon’s Wolmido Island, this sprawling theme park has all the rides you’d expect in a more relaxed environment and there’s a dedicated indoor play centre with rides for younger children. It’s free to wander around the park and you can either pay for individual rides or buy a day pass. And, if you need a break, you can sit and enjoy the ocean view.
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JE T S TA R.C O M
A DVEN T U RE
—You don’t need an entourage to go skiing. Jenny Hewett takes a solo trip to Japan’s new “Ski City”, where culture, powder and scenery mix perfectly to offer a life-changing experience—
I AM STARING down the razor’s edge of a ski slope in Japan’s wintry Hokkaido, my heart thumping in my chest. The tips of my skis are peeking over the edge of a stomach-churning drop and I now regret taking this short cut. The angle of the slope appears to be getting more acute by the second. “I can’t do it,” I say to myself. I turn around, looking for moral support or someone to shadow. My ears await that half-excited, half-terrified chuckle my sister makes when she knows we’re in too deep. But there’s no-one beside me and in front of me is only the great white abyss. I take a deep breath and, without overthinking, I launch myself. My body tenses as I cut back and forth like a knife across the powder towards the chairlifts below, then a smile begins to form on my face. Forget the hype about dancing like no-one is watching. True freedom is to ski all alone. Traditionally, ski culture is all about camaraderie. Hitting the slopes together, enjoying the après wind-down; sharing stories and creating memories are integral to the experience. Due to schedules that never managed to align, I’ve decided to ski solo for the first time in my life – until now, all my ski adventures have been in the company of family. So when I first spot the snow of Hokkaido from the plane window, I automatically make excited “wow” faces at the passengers sitting beside me.
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Although it’s only 9am, the runway at Sapporo airport (New Chitose) has been tucked into bed under a thick blanket of down. My heart warms when I catch the ground crew bowing in unison as our plane approaches. With my winter gear and solo traveller grit, I’m heading to the city of Asahikawa, 138 kilometres north of Sapporo. It’s a great base if you want to experience the dry-powder playgrounds of Kamui Ski Links, Asahidake, Furano and Tomamu – some of Japan’s most underrated and uncrowded ski destinations. I soon discover that Asahikawa sits at the confluence of four rivers in the middle of snow-covered farmland and is a charming, multi-dimensional destination with a lot of soul. White, fluffy snow is piled high on the streets, it cakes like icing on barns and turns homes into gingerbread houses. Hidden in the veins of the city are rustic, time-warped back alleys, sewn with glowing Japanese lanterns and lined with hole-in-the-wall ramen shops and izakayas (traditional pubs). The surrounding ski fields and resorts range from a two-and-a-half-hour drive from the city centre to a 45-minute bus ride. This pocket of Hokkaido, home to more than 350,000 people, is not as popular as the Aussie-inundated Niseko (and that’s the beauty of it). “Locals travel here because it reminds them of Japan in the 80s,” says Itoh, who stands in a neat black suit behind the front desk of my hotel lobby. Hoshino Resorts’ OMO7 Asahikawa
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“W HEN YO U SK I ALO NE T HERE’S N O PRESSURE TO PERF ORM OR FL AU N T YO UR SK ILLS S O I OPT F OR A N E ASIER RU N.”
(omo-hotels.com) – a modern, millennial-geared hotel – opened last year in an effort to tap into the town’s potential as a “Ski City”. It offers a free shuttle bus to nearby Kamui Ski Links (kamui-skilinks.com/en) and ingeniously designed rooms priced from $80 a night, so Japan’s famed powder is now accessible to those with more modest budgets and solo travellers who don’t have the buffer of an extra body. As the chairlift plucks me from the base of the mountain for the first time, I actually feel quite at ease, despite being alone in a new country. I’m not the only one who has come to embrace solo travel. Google Trends reports that searches for “female solo travel” grew by 52 per cent between 2016 and 2017, which is not surprising – travelling alone is no longer considered risky for women, it’s empowering and the ultimate self-expression. You meet new people, rely on your own problem-solving skills and get to travel at your own pace. According to a report by booking portal Skyscanner, 39 per cent of Australians chose to travel
independently last year, although ski spots aren’t popular destinations for those going solo. Skiing feels like the final frontier of solo travel and after five days in Hokkaido I’m not sure it will stay that way for too long. Without social distractions, I’m able to really take in the spellbinding scenery and reflect. When you ski alone there’s no pressure to perform or flaunt your skills so I opt for an easier run this time, one that I can enjoy at leisure like a fine wine. If you do wish to improve your technique, however, lone travellers can hire a guide or sign up for lessons. That’s the beauty of skiing solo, there’s always the option of company if you wish. I decide to dabble in both. The next day I meet up with a guide, Akiko Nakae of Epic Japan (epicjapan.net), who turns out to be the little push I need to challenge myself. I follow her off-piste into the expert powder area, where the snow is so deep it skims my thighs. “Don’t turn, just bounce,” she says encouragingly, before I go headfirst into yet another fluffy dump of snow. Over the course of a few short days, Akiko becomes like a big sister. Aged in her late 40s, the whippet-quick former alpine racer and ski tourer is an experienced solo traveller and spends the off-season in the US, climbing in Yosemite National Park. “I like the thrill,” she says, “and I don’t like places where there are many people.” Lucky then that Kamui Ski Links is practically deserted today. With its 25 runs, tree-lined avenues and lengthy, leisurely slopes, this local spot is paradise for solitude-loving skiers. Day lift passes cost just $41, a fraction of the price you would expect to pay at some of Hokkaido’s better-known resorts.
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> Mt Tomamu Although pricier, the ski-in, ski-out resorts here offer night-time skiing, a lively vibe and minimal chairlift lines. Hoshino Risonare has newly renovated rooms with saunas and spas and an Ice Village with igloo-chic hotel and bar. Enjoy free-flowing beer and friendly chats for $10 at Nininupuri, one of more than 20 dining spots. Day lift passes are $72. snowtomamu.jp
C H AIRL IF T AT K A M UI SK I L INKS
W HERE ELSE TO SKI SOLO IN HOKKAIDO
> Furano Surrounded by cosy restaurants and farmhouses, this ski field is little-known outside Japan and can be reached in about two hours on the Lavender Bus from Asahikawa Station. Hiring a car is an option but it can be expensive. Ski lift passes are $75 for the day. snowfurano.com
Katy Ehlers/@snowtographer, Kristoffer Ehlers
> Asahidake Famous for its deep powder, off-piste skiing and hiking, Asahidake is the highest mountain in Hokkaido. This uncrowded spot in the Daisetsuzan National Park has three basic runs and a few hotels and onsens. OMO7 Asahikawa runs snowshoeing treks here, when weather permits. asahidake.hokkaido.jp
“SUB MER GED IN T HE VOLCA NIC SPRIN G, H A IR FR O STED WI T H ICICLES, I WA N T TO PIN C H M YSELF.”
My muscles are now beginning to ache so I suggest a diversion. “We don’t really have an après-ski culture here,” laughs Akiko. But this is Japan and vending machines dispensing cold beer can be found almost everywhere. At the café at the bottom of the slopes we meet a skier from San Diego in search of beverages. “Have fun,” he says, grabbing his tinnie. “It’s hard not to though,” he calls out in a final farewell. “You know,” says Akiko, as we sip Sapporo Classic from frosted cans, “I think après-ski in Japan is onsen.” A winter storm descends, Narnia-like, over the Tokachidake Onsen as we arrive late the next morning. An hour’s drive from Asahikawa, this secret hideaway tucked into the foothills of Mt Tokachi, a volcano in the Daisetsuzan National Park, has indoor and outdoor hot springs overlooking the snowy landscape. Kamihoroso Hotel (kamihoroso.hotelshokkaido. com) offers packages from $100, which includes a return shuttle bus from Asahikawa Station, use of the onsen, meals and an overnight stay. Submerged in the volcanic spring, hair frosted with icicles, I want to pinch myself. The ease of solo travel in Japan, along with beautiful scenery, nurturing food and generous people, have made this one of the best holidays I’ve ever had. I’ve enjoyed my own banter, dined alone, tested my physical limits and learnt more about myself in a week than I could have in a year. They say you shouldn’t cut corners in life but that’s one snowy diversion I would take again.
JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O JAPA N.
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T H E T R AV ELLER
01. THE SURFER
02. THE TRAVEL BUDDIES
Gold Coast 1 DES T IN AT IO N 3 WAYS
—Chasing waves, having fun with family or on a weekend escape with friends – Queensland’s sun, surf and endless summer mecca has it all. Three locals let us in on the action—
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The Surfer NAME SE A N S C O T T O C C U PAT IO N P H O T O G R AP H ER, S U RFER A N D G ALL ERY O W N ER
Coffee stop > Surfing and coffee go together like
BLEAC H FES TIVAL
boards and wax. Down at Coolangatta, I love Little Mali (fb.me/littlemalicafe), near Rainbow Bay. They do a gritty and full-flavoured coffee and have bacon and egg rolls ready to go (because when you’re hungry after a surf, you’re starving). Another coffee hotspot in Cooly is The Black Sheep Espresso Baa (fb.me/ theblacksheepespressobaa), which is hugely popular with local surfers as it’s opposite the Superbank – a surf break that offers one of the longest rides in the world. And at Burleigh, you’ll always find a queue at Nook Espresso (nook espresso.com.au), right on Burleigh Hill.
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Beyond the waves > You’ll experience the GC’s vibrant surf scene in lots of little cafés and, more recently, local breweries. Of course, there’s Balter (balter.com) – co-owned by pro surfers Mick Fanning and Joel Parkinson – in Currumbin but there’s also Black Hops (blackhops.com.au) and Burleigh Brewing Co (burleighbrewing.com.au), which celebrates surfboard shapers and screens 90s movies at a monthly outdoor cinema. All eyes are on the Gold Coast when the World Surf League is in town for the Quiksilver Pro but to explore the underlying surf culture, check out Bleach Festival (bleachfestival.com.au). It runs for over a week each year with smaller arts events, comedy, music and exhibitions.
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Surf snaparazzi > Surf photography is becoming increasingly popular,
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especially underwater images. So take a break from catching the waves to shoot them – and score yourself a memento of your epic time on the Goldie. If you need inspiration, pop into my shop (seanscottphotography. com.au) or, for a look at how the analogue generation did things, check out the Surf World Gold Coast museum in Currumbin. For more culture, the Coast has many galleries, including brain-stimulators 19 Karen (19karen. com.au) and The Walls Art Space (thewalls.org.au).
Surfing HQ > If you’ve only got time for one surf check, dive into Burleigh Heads for the laid-back local vibe and its world-class point break (that delivers line-ups as good as waves get when the conditions are right). Some people say Burleigh is becoming more like a mini Bondi but it still has a village feel. Any day of the week you can watch the waves from the hill overlooking the beach, sitting alongside tradies, lawyers, grandparents and kids – everyone’s there to drink in the surf. From there, it’s an easy walk to plenty of great places to eat.
LOCAL TIP. You’ll find great live music and street food at Miami Marketta (miamimarketta.com) – the free bands on Friday and Saturday nights are some of the best.
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Catch the stoke
Hayley Williamson, Scott Belzner, Dear Pony Social
> The Gold Coast would have to be one of the best places in the world to learn how to surf. Besides a few rocks at Burleigh, the coast is all sand bottom (other surf spots around the world break over reefs) and you’ll always be able to find a beach with favourable conditions. Due to its gentle peeling waves, Currumbin Alley – about eight kilometres south of Burleigh Heads – is a popular place to learn. Currumbin Alley Surf School have been in the water since 1993 and run lessons daily. currumbinalleysurfschool.com.au
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travel until 18 sept 2020*
Conditions Apply: On Sale for a Limited Time. Travel on selected dates until 18 September 2020 (Excludes 21 Dec – 4 Jan 2020, 10-12 April 2020). This offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer and is only available for bookings made direct with Paradise Resort Gold Coast and not available through any other booking agent. For full conditions visit www.paradiseresort.com.au
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Strike a (tree) pose without some zen time – Lululemon is practically the uniform here. But instead of heading to a studio for your fix, try SUP. Pure Aloha Yoga hold stand-up paddleboard yoga classes every day on the calm waters of Tallebudgera Creek. First-timer? There’s nothing to worry about. After paddling out on the creek, you’ll go through a series of basic yoga poses on the paddleboard, followed by a relaxing savasana. If you fall in, it’s no big deal as the water is glorious. purealohayoga.co
K IND C UR ATIO NS
> It wouldn’t be a Gold Coast getaway
S TABLE C OFFEE K ITC HEN
Brunch and browse
Chelsea Bellamy, Andy Macpherson
> Head to Stable Coffee Kitchen at the Cornerstone Stores in Tugun for a breakfast menu that’s a little bit different from many of the other spots on the Coast. They source all their ingredients locally and the place has a very creative vibe. I always order the potato hash (with poached eggs, miso cashew cream, pickled red cabbage and pickled radish) and add sriracha. Once you’re done, stop into boutiques Kind Curations and Prae Store, where you’ll find local and Australian brands you really can’t get at the big shopping malls. cornerstonestores.com
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LOCAL TIP. Drink coffee and listen to live music at Dust Temple (dusttemple.com.au) then pop next door to Gather (gatheraustralia.com.au) where you can make your own arrangement at the dried flower bar.
> As alluring as the beaches are, there’s vistas of green and fresh rainforest air for the taking just a short drive away. Set your GPS for Freeman's Organic Farm in Currumbin Valley, where you can grab a coffee before enjoying one of the surrounding hiking trails. Saturday or Sunday are the best days to visit, although the café is also open on Fridays and Mondays. They source all produce from the farm and do a mean haloumi and sun-dried tomato sandwich. Add a kombucha or fresh cold-pressed juice and you’ve got the perfect lunch. If you can, time your visit to sync with The Green Marquee’s eco markets (thegreenmarquee.com) – held on the second Saturday of the month – where you’ll find recycled fashion, local artisans and organic food trucks from 2pm. freemansorganicfarm.com.au
Cocktail-o'clock > Sundowners come with a side of dreamy pastel beach views if you score a spot on the terrace at Burleigh Pavilion (burleighpavilion.com). Must-try cocktail? The Pink Gin Kombucha (Bombay Sapphire, Campari, lemon, ginger and Bucha of Byron kombucha). For something a little more underground, seek out The Scottish Prince (thescottishprince.com.au) where you can sit at the bar and everyone is chatty. There’s always a wide variety of ages – young and old – and this bar and restaurant has great music and a cool vibe.
Jessica Aleece, Desert Island Media
> If life has been running faster than a washing machine spin cycle, stop and recalibrate with a Bliss Soak at Greenhouse The Bathhouse in Burleigh Heads. You and your crew can soak away the stress in two heated hydrotherapy spas and pop in and out of the wet steam room and red cedar sauna while sipping champagne and nibbling healthy treats. greenhousethebathhouse.com
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> Paddock Bakery is our go-to for family dining – mostly because of the cookie monster milkshake, an old-school vanilla shake with whipped cream, your choice of home-baked cookie and crumbly cookie sprinkles. At $12, it’s not cheap (although it can be shared between two or three) but as a monthly treat it always delivers. Other staples include the dippy eggs, teen fave avo on toast and mum fave – a revolving array of sweet treats, from pavlova cruffins to Lindt chocolate and cheesecake brownies. This place does nothing for the waistline but everyone leaves extremely happy. paddockbakery.com
Water play + stay > In Surfers Paradise, the Ruby Collection delivers the best of both worlds for families. Sharing facilities with Paradise Resort, it merges a water park and kids’ club with apartment-style rooms that parents will appreciate too. Keep costs down by self-catering in the generous kitchen, with full-size fridge, plus there’s a washer and dryer in-room and great ocean views (especially from the Sky Suites). A convenience store (more like a fancy pantry) can be found downstairs, along with a gourmet deli. And if the kids don’t want to get out of the water, you can order poolside pizzas (plus cocktails) and just stay in. therubycollection.com.au
Greg Smith
Eat treats
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Lagoon vibes > There are more than 50 kilometres of
LOCAL TIP. For a beach reprieve, go green at Cougal Cascades. It’s chilly but kids will love splashing in the creek shallows at the path’s end.
Alfresco entertainment
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beaches to choose from but Tallebudgera Creek is the best bet when you have little waders in tow. It’s not so secret anymore but if you continue a little further down, past the playground and the flags, you can still find an uncrowded sandy spot, nestled in a shady grove of pandanus palms. Neptune Kiosk, the little sister of the iconic Bam Bam Bakehouse (bambambakehouse.com), resides creek-side too, with good coffee, famous almond croissants and the obligatory ice-cream that I use as a bribe to get the kids back past the playground. fb.me/NeptuneKiosk
> Skip the cinema queues and overpriced popcorn. Every month from around October to March, the City of Gold Coast hosts a free Movies Under the Stars family event. Held at a range of venues (usually local state school ovals), you can pack your own picnic and rug or feast from food trucks, while the kids meet new friends and enjoy a play before settling down to watch the family-rated movie. goldcoast.qld.gov.au C URRU MBIN WILDL IFE SA N C T UARY
Animal adventures > Meet Pooh Bear the puggle (a baby short-beaked echidna) at Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary. This park is our all-time favourite for its mix of education, wildlife encounters, train rides and the see-through slippery dip. Add another dimension to your visit and download The Gruffalo Spotter app before you go (the Wi-Fi in the park can be patchy) so tech-savvy kids can find and snap selfies with animated characters as they explore The Gruffalo Trail. currumbinsanctuary.com.au
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—A hike you can tackle in sneakers with wine at the end? Carolyn Swindell takes her family to New Zealand’s Wairarapa region to visit a legendary movie location, a lighthouse and great wineries all in one day—
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“AS WE STEP O U T OF T HE CAR WE AL M O ST FALL OVER O NE OF T HE M A N Y FUR SE ALS T H AT CALL T HIS STRE TC H OF C OAST H O ME.”
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he whiteness of my sneakers is the first giveaway. We don’t pass many people on the first part of the hike in the Wairarapa region, tucked away at the south-eastern tip of New Zealand’s North Island, but those we do are all decked out in hiking boots and fabric so tech savvy it could write its own code. We are clearly amateurs, the softest of soft adventurers, about to follow in the footsteps of Aragorn, Legolas and Gimli who travelled this very route in director Peter Jackson’s cinematic masterpiece and the third in The Lord of the Rings trilogy, The Return of the King. What fate will await our jeans-wearing ensemble as we tackle our own intrepid adventure, armed with litt le more than bananas and trail mix? Quite a good one actually. In Maori mythology, the demigod Maui-tikitiki-a-Taranga (feel free to call him Maui) pulled from the depths a fish that became Aotearoa’s North Island. The mouth of that monster fish became Palliser Bay and my husband and I are taking our 10-year-old boy and five-year-old girl into what must have been the soft palate of that fish, the Aorangi Range.
This rugged coast, about 150 kilometres south east of Wellington, with towering sharp slabs of rock on one side of the road and the full force of the southerly swell hitting the black sands on the other, feels like the end of the world. In this part of the country, beautiful hikes – which, because we’re in New Zealand, we’ll refer to as “tramping” – can be accomplished without carrying our body weight on our backs, or without the need to invest in a new wardrobe of outdoor gear. And we’ll be back to comfort and civilisation to share our war stories over fine food before dark. Yes, we’re just like those plucky hobbits, but propelled by Converse, a Camry and chocolate biscuits instead of a fi xation on a piece of jewellery. Our fab four is about to tackle the Putangirua Pinnacles – eerie rock formations that found fame as a haunted passage under the White Mountains in said movie – tucked into the middle of the 40-kilometre stretch of road along Palliser Bay. The tramp may be officially classified by NZ’s Department of Conservation (doc.govt.nz) as “easy” but
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is definitely worth it for newbie trampers and hard-core adventurers alike. And while the Pinnacles are a manageable day trip from Wellington, being less than two hours’ drive away, they’re much better tackled as part of a slightly longer stay in Martinborough. Back in 1879 a fella named John Martin bought the township of Wharekaka, laid out the town square and streets like the Union Jack and renamed it after himself. Fast forward to the 1970s, some bright spark had the idea of planting grapes around the ailing farming town. The township of Martinborough now offers much for those of us who like a holiday with adventure (but not too much). The Pinnacles are only about an hour’s drive from the town square, followed by an hour’s hike. But first, we have a lighthouse to see. We know we’re getting close when we see the rusty anchor of the Ben Avon, a roadside memorial to the lives lost to the treacherous waters of Palliser Bay, which has claimed many ships in its time.
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Right about here, Cape Palliser Road narrows to litt le more than a single lane, squeezed by the erosion that is plaguing the area, with tides and southerly storms claiming about half-a-metre of land in a normal year. The seas here are hungry and several homes have slipped into the bay. So the cheerful facade of the Cape Palliser lighthouse at the North Island’s southernmost point seems a bit out of place. As we step out of the car to admire New Zealand’s only red-and-white-striped lighthouse, we almost fall over one of the many fur seals that call this stretch of coast home. Until you’re right on top of them, they appear like other grey boulders, and I can’t have been the first person to entertain my family by shrieking when the boulder I stood beside belched loudly. This uncouth creature is part of the only colony of fur seals in the North Island where breeding is well-established. Bad manners are clearly no impediment to a robust social life. The 18-metre lighthouse was built in 1897. The stairs were built in 1912. The lighthouse is made of cast iron and came out from Birmingham, England, in pieces before being hauled up that hill. Before the steps. That thought is never far away as we climb more than 250 of them, steeply stacked, to reach the lighthouse. We can’t go in as it has been controlled from Wellington for almost 40 years but it is still worth visiting for the views across Cook Strait from the base, the satisfying quad workout and the excuse to eat those baked treats I wisely bought for our future selves all those hours ago in a Martinborough café. What a good mother.
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W H ERE T O E AT & D R IN K > Load up on snacks before you hit the road from Martinborough. The Four Square Supermarket on Memorial Square has everything needed to fuel a moderately strenuous day.
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And given my fear of heights, the trip gave me a small adrenaline burst readying me for the pinnacle of our day’s daring deeds – tramping the Putangirua Pinnacles. Even Sir Peter Jackson, director of The Lord of the Rings trilogy, would have had to start in the same car park where we shouldered our daypacks, looked at the map and harboured secret doubts about our outfits. A short way in came our first decision; did we want to re-enact that Tolkien-ish scene and walk among the stone pillars of ancient gravel? Or, did we want to head up to the lookout and eyeball these pinnacles, which seem much friendlier when you call them by their other name – fairy chimneys? Although we’re reliably advised that the Army of the Dead has all cleared out, we overruled the children’s desire to vanquish any zombie stragglers and made an executive parental decision to take the high road. We’re heading up, kids. Our path to the lookout sees us pass switchback after switchback under the cover of archways of trees that don’t allow much sense of how high we’ve come or how much more will follow. The Kiwi bush path seems quieter than we’d expected; the insects speak more quietly, the birdsong less shouty. It brings out the contemplative walkers in us (or perhaps that’s just the breathlessness from the uphill slog). We know we’re close when the path flattens and the bush falls away on either side. The sea looks a long way below us as the viewing platform comes into sight. Our reward for the burning glutes and sweaty brows comes less than an hour’s walk later, as we finally stand as equals with the pinnacles, clustered shoulder-to-shoulder like a choir in front of us. Our jeans and city sneakers have been up to the task and we have triumphed in our day’s exploits.
> Because it’s New Zealand, good coffee is as abundant as fresh air. In the Neighbourhood offers both, plus a selection of baked treats. intheneighbourhood.co.nz > Martinborough Wine Centre has friendly and knowledgeable staff who’ll steer you in the direction of the best wineries to check out. They also sell local wine and olive oil and rent bikes. martinborough winemerchants.com
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Dave’s arrival a minute later is somewhat deflating. The 63-year-old firefighter has popped down from Wellington for his weekly training walk in which he carries 60 kilograms of bricks in his backpack to simulate lugging heavy hoses up high-rise buildings in an emergency. Yes, well. Trail mix and bananas are also a burden for some of us who aren’t such show-offs, Dave. Later that afternoon, we ride our rented bikes through vineyards, past Margrain (margrainvineyard.co.nz) which I learnt produces an excellent pinot noir, heading for a warm window-side table at the Cool Change Bar and Eatery (fb.me/coolchangebar) on Martinborough’s Memorial Square. As I enjoy some cocktails and kumara and blue cheese croquettes, we get company. Gerald, a farmer who looks like he’s straight out of Central Casting, drops by our table, the first of three locals to stop by. We realise later, after several such conversations, that this small town which is flush with tourists in the summer months, is still surprised to see mid-week visitors in winter. We didn’t need days out in the wilderness to get a real taste of New Zealand. An hour-long hike in the clear winter air, followed by delicious food and a warm welcome was all it took to forge charming Martinborough and its surrounds indelibly into our memories. It’s clear that canny JRR Tolkien was right. “Litt le by litt le, one travels far.” And my sneakers still bear the evidence of just a touch of Kiwi adventure. JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O N E W ZE AL A N D.
NEED T O K N O W The drive from Wellington to Martinborough winds through the Remutaka Hills and takes just over an hour. Or get the Wairarapa train from Wellington to Featherston, then catch the Martinborough bus (metlink.org.nz). Green Jersey Explorer Tours (greenjersey.co.nz) offers a one-day Palliser Bay
W H ERE T O S TAY > Perched on Memorial Square, The Martinborough Hotel is a restored historical pub that offers boutique accommodation for adults and families. Downstairs is the delightful Union Square Bistro, which serves contemporary NZ fare with French influences and has a good kids menu. martinborough hotel.co.nz
Explorer Tour out of Wellington or Martinborough. For more information, visit newzealand.com
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> Book a cabin or a camp site at the Martinborough Top 10 Holiday Park, which has a range of family-friendly budget accommodation. mtop10.nz > Aylstone Boutique Retreat is a guesthouse offering beautifully decorated rooms amid the vineyards but it doesn’t cater for kids. aylstone.co.nz
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ADVERTISEMENT ST JOSEPH’S COLLEGE
A MUM’S JOURNEY In late 2018, St Joseph’s College Hunters Hill came together to celebrate the mothers of the graduating class of 2018. As the mums took their seats, one mother, Bez Hines from Young NSW, shared her story about her son Julius, Joeys and the journey her family has taken
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y youngest son, Julius, has just completed his final year at Joeys. It’s exciting that he will soon be entering the next stage of his life, however I wish I had more sons so I could stay a part of the school for longer. It seems my son is ready to leave but I am not! I feel very lucky he ended up at Joeys. We had initially enrolled Julius in another Catholic independent school but luckily, my husband Gerard attended an information night at Joeys, just in case. After listening to the Headmaster speak, wandering around the school and chatting with the boys, Gerard called me and said, ‘We need to send Julius to Joeys’. It was the boys who changed his heart that evening. It was their manners and enthusiasm. It was their openness and sense of fun. Gerard commented that the day boys didn’t seem to want to go home. What a good advertisement for a school – students who don’t want to leave! Joeys has a history of educating boys who didn’t want to leave. My grandfather graduated in the 1920s, only going home to Trangie at the end of each year. Between terms he would usually stay with his uncle, John, who was the barber at Joeys for 50 years. My own uncle and brother were also boarders. Our start at the school was a significant change for the family. Julius was reluctant to even get in the car on our first trip from Young to Sydney, he then refused to let his beloved dog out of the car. Eventually we pried the dog from Julius’ tight embrace with the three of us crying and the dog whimpering. It was hard. That first trip to Sydney now feels like a lifetime ago. The time between Year 7 and 12 has flown by in the blink of an eye. There was the anticipation of the next school holiday, bouts of homesickness, stress about work, winter colds, hot sleepless nights – and that was just me! The same was true for Julius. Weeks and terms were marked by the ebb and flow of school life. From earning a great maths mark and a win in rugby, to getting dropped from the team and the occasional Sunday detention. There was excitement and disappointment, all of which have shaped the young man he is today.
Then, all of a sudden, Year 12 was upon us. Although this last year has been hard work for all of us, for the mothers it has also been filled with lunches, Masses, dinners and weekends away. At the end of our time here, we can be proud of our sons and celebrate the connections we have made with our beautiful friends. As a Joeys mother, I’ve relished the school’s rituals: the Family Masses, Grandparents’ Day, the cheering, sports rallies and assemblies. My favourite of all the Joeys’ rituals, though, was lunch leave. As our families set up lunch on the College lawn, and our sons raced from picnic blanket to picnic blanket, the number of boys who came to lunch grew considerably between recess and lunch. Two boys often turned into 20 and it was a case of the more the merrier. These lunches were a lovely way of getting to know Julius and his mates, and I often thought, there isn’t a place I would rather be than here with my son and his friends at this magnificent school. I often reflect on our privilege and good fortune to be able to access a Joeys education for our son. We have had some wonderful years watching our son enjoy, and sometimes endure, secondary school. Throughout this time Julius has been cared for, educated and mentored by the kindest and strongest of people. They have never let him walk alone. An Old Boy once described Joeys to me as ‘a good place’. This simple phrase encapsulates it for me. It’s hard to understand what makes Joeys so special. There’s the Marist ethos, history, Brothers, teachers, parents, facilities, sport, art and culture. It’s all of this and more. Joeys has soul. Julius will always be a Joeys Old Boy. This is a source of great pride and the basis of life-long friendships for both him and us. In his time at the school our son has become one of the boys my husband met at the information night so many years ago. He’s now a young man and, keeping true to the Joeys motto, like all Joeys Old Boys, he will continue to strive for better things. www.joeys.org
“It was the boys who changed his heart that evening. It was their manners and enthusiasm. It was their openness and sense of fun.�
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the cut > THE BEST OF WHERE TO EAT, DRINK AND PL AY
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> With a population nudging a quarter of a million, the AFL Cats’ hometown is Victoria’s largest provincial city.
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> The Swan River is sacred for the Noongar people, the traditional owners of Western Australia’s capital city.
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> The Royal Flying Doctor Service museum has a talking life-size hologram of founder John Flynn, who died in 1951.
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GEELONG
—Victoria’s second-largest city is rapidly emerging as a diverse, multicultural and vibrant dining hub. Samantha Alleman plays culinary guide to the bayside destination—
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global This cool waterfront restaurant on Cunningham Pier offers up Asian-fusion dishes that are great for sharing. The extensive menu includes vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free, dairy-free, and onion and garlic-free options but you can’t go past their fabulous Thai red curry. If you get decision fatigue, simply ask for the Feed Me option ($55 per person) and the staff will choose for you. wahwahgee.com.au
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> WAH WAH GEE.
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> ZIGFRIDS. If you experience FOMO when ordering, you’ll love the sharing plates at this stylish Middle-Eastern dining hall and bar in Geelong West. Much of the produce is locally sourced, with Zeally Bay bread from Torquay, eggs from Stonehaven and cheese and seafood from Drysdale. The leek and feta croquettes, fried school prawns and ricotta dumplings are great for wandering forks but keep the whipped cheesecake to yourself. zigfrids.com.au
Jake Hogan Photography
> BISTROT PLUME. Did someone say soufflé? Geelong can’t get enough French cuisine and Bistrot Plume, located in the suburb of Belmont, is a popular option. With a modern take on a rustic aesthetic (think wooden floorboards and whitewashed brick walls), it’s the perfect setting for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Their three-course shared feasts on Sundays shouldn’t be missed – expect cured meats, mussels, croquettes, sautéed greens and a decadent dessert. bistrotplume.com.au
ZIGFRIDS
> ALMA. In the neighbourhood of Geelong Gallery, this chic restaurant filled with striking artwork specialises in contemporary Australian food with a South-American twist. Seafood fans will love the freshly shucked oysters, grilled octopus, kingfish ceviche and Alaskan king crab. Pick a South-American-inspired side, such as plantain chips or manchego empanadas but be sure to save room for the sopapillas – scrumptious fried pastries flavoured with cinnamon, caramel and chocolate. almarestaurant.com.au
> BISTROT ST JEAN. Situated on busy Moorabool Street, Bistrot St Jean has been giving locals a taste of French savoir faire since 2014. Perfect for a romantic dinner or a cosy night out, the menu includes authentic home-style dishes such as baked oysters, gnocchi à la Parisienne and onion soup. bistrot.com.au
H I G H LY R E C O M M E N D E D Chef Aaron Turner’s IGNI is considered one of the country’s top contemporary Australian restaurants and was awarded two hats in The Australian Good Food Guide 2019. restaurantigni.com
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> EL SANTO DE LOS TACOS.
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The decor at this Ryrie Street eatery is as bright and loud as its menu is flavoursome. Try a trio of tacos or tackle a Californian burrito, a carb-lover’s dream with chips both inside and on the side. elsanto.com.au
> THE GREEK @ CUSTOMS HOUSE. What do you get when you cross a heritage-listed building with a Greek taverna? A dining hotspot. With chef Peter Conistis (formerly of Sydney’s Alpha) at the helm, this Hellenic restaurant’s specialities include King George whiting plaki and twicecooked octopus. An express lunch menu, divided into Gaia (From the Land) and Nero (From the Sea), is the perfect opportunity to sample several meze-style dishes. thegreekcustomshouse.com
> EMERGE. Attention steak lovers – there is a new gathering place in town. Emerge is family friendly and the menu includes a variety of cuts, chargrilled and served with your choice of sauce. Centrally located and open late, it’s great for a meal after the final siren sounds at the footy. emergedining.com.au
NEXT UP The team behind Melbourne’s popular Higher Ground are set to open The Beach House on Geelong’s foreshore towards the end of the year.
> BIG EARS. Little Malop Street in central Geelong was recently transformed into a vibrant laneway precinct. It’s the perfect home for this café and bar, which swiftly made an impression thanks to its more-ish meatballs. For fast service and tasty fare, you can “build your own” meal – simply pick a meatball (there are vego options, too), a base and a sauce. bigearsbar.com
> ORIENTAL K. A Korean restaurant with a dash of Japanese, this cosy eatery is on Pakington Street in Geelong West. Traditional Korean offerings such as bibimbap, beef bulgogi and spicy pork arrive on hotplates or in hotpots. The desserts – think chocolate-filled spring rolls – sizzle too. orientalk.com.au
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> THE GEELONG HOTEL. While the original Geelong Hotel is long gone, this incarnation is a relatively new – and modern – kid on the block. The building was home to the Corio Hotel until it received a revamp and name change in 2015. It’s popular with uni students and hosts vegan banquets on the first Monday of each month ($50 for a three-course meal). Match the granola-topped beetroot salad with a vegan wine. geelonghotel.com
> LITTLE CREATURES BREWERY. Venture down Swanston Street towards the Barwon River and you can’t miss the red-brick chimney of the old textile mill, which is now home to Little Creatures Brewery. Order a pizza in The Canteen and don’t skip dessert – the honeycomb ice-cream sandwich is delicious. Right next door is White Rabbit, a sister establishment with a provedore-led menu. littlecreatures.com.au
Peter Foster, Shellie Froidevaux
> VALHALLA BREWING & TAPROOM. Gypsy brewers Valhalla travelled on down from Torquay to Geelong to open a taproom late last year. The venue, located centrally on Union Street, showcases Valhalla’s beers as well as a selection of Australian and New Zealand brews. The menu on offer is small but the toasted jaffles (including spaghetti bolognaise and mac and cheese with pickles) are hearty enough to keep you upright. valhallabrewing.com.au
pubs + breweries FLYIN G BRICK CIDER H O USE
> FLYING BRICK CIDER HOUSE. Whether you pull up a chair in the light-filled restaurant overlooking a vineyard or sink into a beanbag on the lawn, this is the perfect spot for a boozy lunch – and just 20 minutes from Geelong. It would be criminal not to try the cider (choose from apple, pear or draught) and fitting to opt for one of the apple-inspired mains, such as mustard cider pork shoulder and confit pork belly with saffron apple. flyingbrickciderco.com.au
> THE LORD NELSON. There may be a Lord Nelson pub in every city but this Victorian-style bar has retained its 1920s facade. Over the years it has remained a firm favourite among locals, who flock to the pub’s expansive beer garden (Geelong’s biggest) in summer. The Nelson is also renowned for its steak menu – try the “tomahawk”, a one-kilo rib eye, if you’re particularly ravenous. thelordnelson.com.au
SPECIAL MENTION Local and international acts have performed at The Barwon Club for the last 30 years. Music lovers can grab a quick feed in the front bar before a show. barwonclub.com.au
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> LITTLE GREEN CORNER. Backyard littered with lemons? Exchange your homegrown produce for coffee at this down-to-earth café. Located in the centre of Geelong (look out for the green building on the corner, as the name suggests), it has a kitchen garden as well as a farm in nearby Waurn Ponds. They produce fruit, veg and eggs, which are used in seasonal dishes like broccoli and cauliflower omelette and caramelised onion tart. littlegreencorner.com.au
> THE PICKERS UNION.
hot cafés
T HE PICKERS U NIO N
North Geelong is an industrial area and home to the popular Geelong Vintage Market, where this adorable café is located. Fittingly, it was built from recycled timber and is kitted out with vintage pieces from the market, resulting in a bright, cheerful vibe. The menu includes classic and hearty dishes such as mac and cheese and warm almond and brown rice pudding with poached rhubarb. thepickersunion.com.au
> FRECKLEDUCK. Nestled in Geelong’s shopping district, this corner café is a refuge from the hustle and bustle, serving classics such as smashed avo or pulled pork on seeded sourdough. Ten cents from every coffee sold goes to One Girl – a charity educating girls in Sierra Leone and Uganda – so indulging your caffeine craving here feels good. freckleduck.com.au
> PAKO RAW. Housed in an old auto paint shop in Geelong West, Pako Raw is a great place to grab a drink and a meal – be tempted by southern fried chicken burgers, steak sandwiches and, on Fridays from 5pm, $5 pizzas. Feeling virtuous? There are also healthy dishes like Buddha and poke bowls. pakoraw.com.au
> KING OF THE CASTLE.
NEW DEVELOPMENT Enjoy a hot dog at Analogue FRECKLED U CK
Academy – an art gallery, creative studio and film lab hybrid – while you develop your photos, old-school style. analogueacademy.com
JE T S TA R H A S G RE AT L O W FA RES T O M EL B O U R N E.
Next door to Pako Raw is another garage-turned-eatery. The industrial look is softened with hanging plants and the kitchen-garden bent is echoed in the menu – try the brisket burger with sweet tater fries or the vegan tahini bowl. Perfectly styled, the food is waiting to be instagrammed. kingofthecastlecafe.com.au JE T S TA R.C O M
Join the family for unlimited entry to Melbourne’s three great zoos, plus five interstate zoos*
Kids join free *Terms and conditions apply at zoo.org.au/terms
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—From spectacular rooftop venues to basement speak-easies, local Carmen Jenner shows us where to find the city’s coolest bars and cut-price drinks—
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> HULA BULA BAR.
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> LONG CHIM. Grab a seat in the outdoor courtyard adorned with colourful parasols or head to the little-known bar hidden in the basement of this Thai restaurant for Chalong Hour. Every day from 5-6pm you can order $6 tinnies, $7.50 tap beers, $9 wines and $12 cocktails. Bar snacks such as beef skewers and shredded papaya and shallot fritters will transport you to the streets of Bangkok. Look out for regular themed events, when Thai eats are matched with beers and beats – you might even spot celebrity chef David Thompson, the creator of Long Chim. D O N ’ T M I S S : The Bargain Highball, described as vermouth, distilled pandan, sand ginger and “barter”. (Tip: for an authentic Thai experience, ask about the “special” ingredient.) longchimperth.com
Step inside this tiki bar in Perth’s CBD and you’ll be transported to a tropical paradise. Slink into a tiger-print booth on Fridays from 4-7pm for $12 rum-based cocktails (many of which are served in a tiki mug), $5-10 beers, $5 wines and $6 ciders. Or you can join the Rhum Club on Thursday nights for 50 per cent off selected rums. Don a Hawaiian shirt for Swingin’ Saturdays, when $12 cocktail specials – such as the Hemingway Daiquiri or honey and rum-based Rumble Bee – are on offer from 6-8pm. D O N ’ T M I S S : The chance to sample some rare and unusual rums – there are more than 270 to choose from. Savour the 17-year-old Kill Devil from Nicaragua or sip the 1982 Berry Bros & Rudd Jamaican rum. hulabulabar.com
G O ODY T W O’S
Thom Davidson/Shot by Thom
> BOBÈCHE. Beneath the swanky Brookfield Place on St Georges Terrace is this dimly lit basement bar offering clandestine drinks and monthly cocktail specials – poured from ornate teapots into quaint cups and saucers. Tanqueray G&Ts, Beerfarm Pale Ale and Picardy Shiraz are just some of the $8 offerings from 5-6pm. You’ll also pay happy hour prices for a selection of delicious bar snacks; $10 cheese with honey and crackers and $5 baby burgers are perfect with liquid libations. D O N ’ T M I S S : The Bobèche Iced Tea, a concoction of Ketel One vodka, Tanqueray gin, Pampero Blanco rum, Heering cherry liqueur and spiced tea. bobeche.com.au
> GOODY TWO’S. Inspired by the refined yet cheeky underbelly of Japanese after-work culture, this basement bar is tucked away in the city’s poshest dining precinct, Hibernian Place. From 5-6pm, Wednesday to Friday, Superfantastic Happy Hour is super fun and offers $8 highball cocktails and beers accompanied by izakaya-style bites and $8 GFC (Goody’s Fried Chicken). D O N ’ T M I S S : Take a Japanese Whisky Flight with premium whiskies including Nikka, Tokinoka and Suntory. goodytwos.com.au
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> BOB’S BAR.
> GRAMERCY BAR AND KITCHEN. The name and the location – Perth’s very own Central Park – might nod to New York City but this family-run venue uses mainly local suppliers. Every day from 5-6pm, sip $6 schooners of any beer on tap and $6 house reds, whites and sparkling wines and house spirits. During happy hour, the great deals extend to the food too, with special dishes of the day including a kilo of chicken wings for $16. D O N ’ T M I S S : From Monday to Thursday, add $5 to the price of the $18 weekly dinner specials to enjoy a soft drink, house wine or schooner of local beer, such as Little Creatures Rogers’ Beer, with your meal. gramercybarandkitchen.com.au
Climb the newspaper-lined staircase – an ode to “The West”, WA’s daily newspaper that used to come off the press right here in the Print Hall – to the Brookfield Place rooftop bar named after the much-loved former PM, the late Bob Hawke. The thirsty after-work crowds come here for $4 middies and $8 wines and pints of Colonial beers from 4pm-5pm, Monday to Thursday, but you can enjoy the $20 Bob’s Box – which includes a cheeseburger, chicken wings and fries served with a Colonial middy – any time. D O N ’ T M I S S : After 8, an offer of half-price premium wines – costing between $200 and $500 – which is available after 8pm from Monday to Thursday throughout Print Hall. printhall.com.au
T HE BR O OKFIEL D PL ACE R O OF TOP BAR IS N A MED AF TER T HE M U C H-LOVED F ORMER PM, T HE L ATE B OB H AWKE.
PRIN CE L A NE
Tropical prints and the city’s skyline are an Instagram-ready backdrop for the pretty patrons who flock to this Miami-chic rooftop bar in the heart of the city. There’s not one but two happy hours – 12-1pm and 5-6pm from Sunday to Thursday. Prosecco, house wines and pints of beer are $7 while cocktails of the month are $10. There are also food specials – tuck into tacos on Tuesday, burgers on Friday and steak on Saturday for just $15. For an extra $5, you’ll get a beer, wine or glass of bubbles to wash it down. Prefer to stay indoors? Stick to the public bar on the ground floor where the same offers apply. D O N ’ T M I S S : The Prince Chaplin, a tangy treat of sloe gin, apricot liqueur, lime juice and hellfire bitters. princelane.com.au
Thom Davidson/Shot by Thom
> PRINCE LANE.
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Free the burger from savoury oppression! For the open-minded, the burger specialists at Melbourne’s Demazzi Stone-Grill have concocted a droolworthy Nutella Burger on brioche with vanilla bean mascarpone and strawberries. demazzi.com.au
W H AT ' S
OODLES OF NO ODLES However you spell it – mie, mi or mee – stick it in front of goreng and you get the popular Asian dish of fried noodles. Now, at Cuckoo Callay’s two Sydney locations, there is the option to upgrade the chicken burger to a Pimp Mi Goreng, a chicken thigh coated in crispy fried noodles, with maple bacon, house-made kimchi and coriander aïoli on a pretzel bun. cuckoo-callay.com.au
[ TRENDING]
FOR LUNCH?
Proving burgers don’t have to be a guilty treat are innovative owners Claire and Sevan of Café De la Plage in Darwin, who use only natural ingredients such as turmeric and charcoal to create colourful, healthy burgers, such as this vitality-boosting butterfly-pea flower bun to sandwich a free-range pulled pork burger. It’s good – and good for you. delaplagecafe.com.au
WORDS_ DEBORAH GRUNFELD
BU N ME
—The ubiquitous burger is having a makeover moment with experimental new offerings to leave you healthier – or happier—
KENZAN
AUTHENTIC JAPANESE DINING
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Kenzan Japanese Collins Place, 45 Collins Street, Melbourne +61 (03) 9654 8933 | kenzan.com.au
2015 • 20 1
Visit Kenzan Japanese restaurant for some of the freshest sushi and sashimi dishes in Melbourne, along with daily changing à la carte dishes and surprising specials. The restaurant has been in its current CBD location for 38 years, and is the most awarded Japanese restaurant in Melbourne. Be welcomed by friendly staff for an authentic Japanese dining experience.
T HE C U T
IT’S
F
Y L TIME
—Want to be launched into the air then (hopefully) soar above the ocean like an eagle? Craig Tansley tries flyboarding and gets a taste for the high life— “We’ve never really had anyone who hasn’t been able to flyboard,” says instructor Kyle Parker while he laces up my flying boots. Kyle’s trying to soothe my nerves but all he’s doing is feeding my insecurities. Could I be the first person who can’t flyboard? My balance is OK – I’ve surfed all my life and snowboarded, too – but logic isn’t my strong point and I’m not very good at listening either. It has struck me that this flyboarding caper involves fairly large doses of both. Kyle tells me that the thrust from his jetski will be routed through long hoses up into my flyboard, which is essentially a pair of boots with jet nozzles underneath. He says I should position my feet like I’m standing on the ground and keep my arms down by my sides. Or hold them up in the air... Which one did he say? “Don’t forget to push your legs down when you feel the thrust coming,” he adds.
A French bloke called Franky Zapata (yep, that’s his real name) invented flyboarding back in 2012. He figured using propulsion to thrust him into the sky was the closest he’d get to flying. There are several places you can have a go at flyboarding in Australia but Queensland’s Gold Coast is by far the prettiest. We’re in a sheltered bay full of yachts in the Broadwater, right beside Sea World. Gold Coast Watersports’ co-owner Kate Forrester says that while the majority of their customers are thrillseeking teenagers, she’s also had flyboarders in their 70s and many international tourists. Kyle reminds me again to keep my legs straight as I rise into the air. He says the hardest thing about flyboarding is our tendency to fight against the propulsion. Despite his warnings, I fold my legs up into my stomach; so as I rise above the water, I’m immediately pitched forward. On my second attempt I keep my legs straighter, but this time I topple backwards.
CR AIG TA NSLEY O N A FLYB OARD
EXPERIEN CE
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3 MORE T H R IL L S TO TRY > Jet packing Prefer to move around using hand controls? Try the original jet packing at Sydney’s International Regatta Centre in Penrith. jetpackadventures. com.au
CR AIG FALLS OFF T HE FLYB OARD... AGAIN!
< THE DETAILS > WHAT: FLYBOARDING WITH GOLD COAST WATERSPORTS WHERE: THE GOLD COAST, QUEENSLAND PRICE: BOOK ANYTHING FROM A FIVE-MINUTE FLY ($99) TO 30 MINUTES ($249), PLUS BRIEFING TIME. GOLDCOASTWATERSPORTS.COM
JE TSK IIN G IS A N OT HER EXCITIN G WATERSP ORT
You might be more familiar with jet packing, where a jet pack is strapped to your back and two handles are used for steering (as James Bond did in the 1965 film Thunderball). But I have no handles – instead I use weight distribution between my legs to move around and my shoulders to turn. My third attempt is a different story – I keep my legs straight and, when I rise into the air, I keep my gaze focused on a bloke on a nearby yacht who’s laughing at me. Then I notice I’m five metres above the water and drop like a sack of potatoes. “Don’t look down,” Kyle yells. On my fourth attempt, I fly like a bird. I’m so high I can see the tips of the Surfers Paradise skyscrapers. I’m winking at pelicans and screaming like I’m 10 years old again. Kyle lowers me. “OK, you can hover. Now let’s fly,” he says. So it’s one thing, apparently, to stay up in the air but it’s another to move around. And so I test out the strength of my helmet as I fall, over and over, while ducking and weaving around the jetski. When I can manage an entire revolution of the ski, Kyle throws me another surprise: dolphin diving. I dive face-first into the water and re-emerge (with straight legs) into the air. Once I’ve got the knack of dolphin diving (I’d prefer not to say how long this takes), Kyle says it’s time for me to go higher. “We can get you 10 metres up – or more!” And that’s when I experience the incredible sensation of flying high. Kyle looks tiny below me and at first I find it daunting. But once I gain confidence, I find it exhilarating. There’s something about the view from up here; soaring over the water like Superman, I can see for miles. There’s a sea eagle checking me out and I swear the sun feels a little warmer. Franky Zapata figured this was the closest humans would get to flying so I go with it for as long as I can, because I’ll probably never glide this high again.
> Hoverboarding This is another way to fly over the ocean using propulsion from a jetski. Snowboarders and surfers will love hoverboarding at Rockingham, a town 40 minutes from Perth. jetpackperth.com.au > Jetskiing Stay on the water and explore the beautiful Gold Coast Broadwater during a one-hour or 2.5-hour jetski tour. goldcoastwater sports.com
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Get up and go
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—Kickstart warm weather action with fresh gear that will take you on whatever adventure you want— 1. Waterproof and dustproof sports walkman, $169, store.sony.com.au 2. ‘66 Classic’ hat in urban navy/blue wing teal, $40, thenorthface.com.au 3. ‘Your Type’ high-neck one-piece in lime light, $169.95, seafolly.com 4. Garmin ‘Instinct’ GPS smart watch in lakeside blue, $398, harveynorman.com.au 5. Palladium women’s ‘Pampalicious’ hi-tops in popcorn, $119.99, platypusshoes.com.au 6. P.E. Nation ‘Shuffle’ tank in marle, $89, pe-nation.com 7. Speedo ‘Mariner Supreme’ mirror swim goggles, $29.99, rebelsport.com.au 8. Denim short, $49.95, bonds.com.au 9. Fjallraven Kånken bag in warm yellow, $139.95, theiconic.com.au
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Photo Credit: @kayleigh.christina @ashleyspedale
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the insider > JETSTAR NEWS, ENTERTAINMENT AND MAPS
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> Keep up to date with Jetstar news and our StarKids charity. Plus, go behind the scenes with our staff profiles.
EN T ERTA IN MEN T
PA G E
> Let us entertain you with a huge selection of movies, TV shows, podcasts, music videos and much more.
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A IRP O RT TO CI T Y
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> Heading from the airport to the city centre? Use our guide to find out the best way to get there by bus, train or taxi.
T HE IN SIDER
Jetstar news
STAFF Q+A.
T HIN T HIN MAR AND HER DAU G H TER AT T HEIR FLOWER FARM
NAME EDEN LAPWOOD POSITION STAR DEVELOPMENT MANAGER, NZ REGIONAL CABIN CREW
FLOWER POWER IN MYANMAR A woman in rural Myanmar leads her family to prosperity with the help of StarKids and World Vision. By Kervin Mathew.
> Outside Yangon in rural Myanmar, 36-year-old Thin Thin Mar manages
a flower farm on a hectare of land. Like many women, she juggles multiple responsibilities, hoping to build a better life for her five children, three of whom she adopted from her sister who is unable to care for them. Before they were married, Thin Thin’s husband used the land for his vegetable business but the income was unstable due to fluctuating prices. “We decided to grow flowers because that market is more stable,” says Thin Thin. Despite changing their plan, the business failed to blossom – until Thin Thin learnt about World Vision’s program to provide business loans to women. In September 2017 she invested her first loan of US$400 in better quality fertilisers and insecticides. After a lot of hard work and timely financial assistance from World Vision, Thin Thin’s flower farm is finally in full bloom. The rapid expansion is leading her to consider hiring labourers to work on the farm so they can continue to grow the business. Now her family is thriving financially and their lives have dramatically improved. With the stable and substantial income, they plan to build a safer and more secure house equipped with a borehole well to provide clean water and a generator for electricity. “I will keep growing the business so my children are able to fulfil their desires and are able to do whatever they want,” says Thin Thin, whose daughter hopes to be a teacher one day. Thin Thin’s entrepreneurial skills are also growing. She is the leader of her community’s savings group – also facilitated by World Vision – and teaches other women how to save money and invest in their futures. Through StarKids and World Vision, women like Thin Thin are being encouraged to lead the way for women’s empowerment and are having a positive impact on their families and communities.
What does your role involve? > I look after the day-to-day management of the New Zealand regional cabin crew. I also fly operationally as a flight attendant and conduct emergency procedures recurrent training for crew operating regional flights. What’s a typical workday?
> Flying duties are usually
from Auckland to one of our regional ports – Napier, New Plymouth, Palmerston North, Nelson or Wellington. In the office, I assist with queries, while training is spent re-certifying the crew as per CASA’s requirements.
How long have you worked for Jetstar? > I started in March 2009 and was in the first cabin crew intake for the Auckland base. I had left school not sure what I wanted to do and ended up studying travel and tourism. Through my studies I was awarded an internship to work in Los Angeles as part of the ground team. This is where I caught the aviation bug. Best thing about your job?
> I love the people I work with
and the fact that every day is different. Plus, the opportunities to travel around the world.
Rachelle Coverson
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INSIDE STORY What happens on a plane may not be in plain sight. We explain some curious and interesting phenomena that occur in the aircraft cabin. By Kaitlyn Palmer-Allen.
Curious cargo
30 Umami cravings
Hankering for something rich and salty at 35,000 feet? Research suggests low humidity, low cabin pressure and high levels of background noise impact our odour and taste receptors, decreasing our ability to taste sweet and salty foods but enhancing umami flavours (rich, savoury tastes such as those in tomato juice).
483 THE SPEED (KILOMETRES PER HOUR) AT WHICH WASTE TRAVELS THROUGH THE PLANE’S PIPING, FROM THE TOILET TO A STORAGE TANK AT THE REAR OF THE AIRCRAFT. THIS IS FASTER THAN A FORMULA ONE RACING CAR!
Why do we check your boarding pass again when you board the plane? Sometimes there are several aircraft boarding at the same time and we need to ensure you’re on the right flight. So when we check your boarding pass again, we check the flight number, the date (to confirm you have a ticket for that flight) and the destination, just to be sure.
Did you know there may be more than luggage in the cargo hold beneath your feet? On commercial flights, you could be sharing your journey with stacks of mail, live seafood and fresh produce.
THE NUMBER OF TIMES PER HOUR THE AIR INSIDE THE AIRCRAFT CABIN IS COMPLETELY REFRESHED AND SENT THROUGH A FILTRATION SYSTEM – THIS IS ON PAR WITH MOST HOSPITALS.
High and dry
The humidity in aircraft cabins is typically between 10 and 15 per cent and low humidity means your body can lose water. So to avoid dehydration (and the dry skin that can come with it), drink lots of water and pack some moisturiser – your body will thank you.
Tear jerker
Have you found yourself getting a little more emotional than usual watching an in-flight movie? You’re not alone. Shedding a few tears on a long-haul trip is common and there is some science behind it. Studies show low air pressure reduces the oxygen in our blood and can affect our emotions. Add a touch of tiredness and it’s the perfect formula for a good sob-fest.
ASK THE CABIN CREW Your friendly Jetstar flight attendants answer some common questions.
Why is only one infant allowed to sit on a parent’s lap in a row of three seats? This is because only four oxygen masks will drop down from the compartment above the seats and it is vital that every passenger has their own mask if the cabin loses pressure.
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EYES ON THE SK Y Cloud aficionado, author and avid daydreamer Gavin Pretor-Pinney talks to Rachel Gray about judging Jetstar’s nebulous photographic competition and how to tell cumulonimbus from cirrus.
> In 2005, UK-based Gavin
Pretor-Pinney founded the Cloud Appreciation Society – an online community of cloud fans – which now has 47,000 members from 120 countries. As ambassador and judge of the #JetstarClouds competition, he gives us an insight into the heavenly phenomena and shares his expert tips on how to get the perfect cloud photo. How did you become an appreciator of clouds? I’ve always liked clouds. But when I was young, like most kids, I wanted to know what they were made of and why they didn't fall down. The interest stayed with me and 14 years ago I started the online Cloud Appreciation Society, which is about connecting people to that early sense of wonder. Why are clouds so special? They are the air conditioners in our atmosphere. They convert salty seawater to fresh, drinkable rainwater. It’s all physics and yet the cloud is an evocative invitation for our imaginations and a magnetic draw for life’s metaphors. The Ancient Greek playwright Aristophanes described them as the “patron goddesses of idle fellows”. In this device-led culture we rarely allow space for our brains to go into idle mode, to coast, which is when we make connections subconsciously. That daydream state is good for creativity and for making sense of everything else in life.
What types of clouds should we look for from the plane window? The high, wispy cirrus clouds, which are named after the Latin word for lock of hair, would be good to see up-close from a plane. Up in the air, you can see low, mid-level and high clouds – I like to see that 3D aspect. And look for “the glory”, which makes a rainbow ring around the shadow of a plane as it passes above a cloud. And what about when looking at clouds from the ground? Perhaps the majestic storm cloud cumulonimbus. Lenticularis clouds are formed near mountains and they look like flying saucers (UFOs). At Burketown, on the Gulf of Carpentaria in north-west Queensland, there’s the long roll of cloud called the “morning glory” which glider pilots surf like an ocean wave. What’s the secret to successful cloud-spotting? Stay open to what happens in the sky and be prepared to stop what you’re doing when there is an interesting formation. It’s about timing more than location, so the best place to spot clouds is generally your own backyard. And remember to look up!
THE PERFECT CLOUD SNAP... ONE In a plane, be careful of reflections off the window. Try holding up a jacket so there’s a darkened area behind you. TWO Look out for optical effects, such as points, arcs and sunlight shining off water droplets. THREE It’s not just about capturing beautiful lighting – surprising and humorous cloud formations work really well too.
CLO UDY WIT H A CHANCE OF PRIZES! #JetstarClouds is a social media competition inviting everyone to post sublime shots of clouds. We are looking for clouds that look like things, clouds in interesting conditions and clouds from the window of an aircraft! Cloud ambassador Gavin Pretor-Pinney will be our judge and the best entries will win exciting prizes. The grand prize is A Year in the Clouds – $15,000 in flights! For terms and conditions and to enter, visit fb.me/jetstaraustralia.
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T HE IN SIDER
In-flight Entertainment —Take off into a world of entertainment – we’ve rounded up today’s most talked-about movies and TV shows, plenty of kids’ favourites, plus hit music and podcasts to keep you occupied throughout your flight— MORE THAN 60 MOVIES AND 500 TV EPISODES AVAILABLE
ONLY $13 BLOCKBUSTER MOVIES TV COMEDY AND DRAMA KIDS’ FAVOURITES HIT MUSIC PODCASTS
> NEW RELEASE MOVIES.
© 2019 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.
Alita: Battle Angel
Emu Runner
Sci-Fi | M Alita awakens with no memory of who she is in a world she does not recognise.
Family | PG A story about the impact a mother’s death has on her nine-year-old daughter.
© 2019 MARVEL
Avengers: Endgame Action | M Thanos’ devastating actions compel the Avengers to take one final stand. © 2019 WBEI
© 2019 WBEI TM & © DC Comics
Isn’t It Romantic
Shazam!
Romance | M Natalie, a lifelong cynic, discovers that her life has become a romantic comedy.
Action | M Shazam sets out to test his abilities with the joyful recklessness of a child.
RATINGS
©2019 Disney Enterprises, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Dumbo Family | PG A flying elephant helps show that differences and family should be cherished.
The Kid Crime Rio is forced to go on the run in a desperate attempt to save his sister.
G General. PG Parental guidance recommended. M Recommended for mature audiences. MA15+ Not suitable for people under 15. Under 15s must be accompanied by a parent or adult guardian.
PRE-PURCHASE IN-FLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT WHEN YOU BOOK YOUR FLIGHTS AND SAVE!
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©2019 Disney Enterprises, Inc. All Rights Reserved
> NEW RELEASE MOVIES.
Kursk Drama | M Follows an “unsinkable” submarine as it sinks to the bottom of the Barents Sea.
> KIDS’ FLICKS. © 2019 Universal City Studios Productions LLLP and Perfect Universe Investment Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Little Comedy | PG A film about the price of success, the power of sisterhood and a second chance.
© 2019 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All rights reserved.
The Aftermath
Tangled
Beauty and the Beast
Animation | PG Rapunzel and Flynn set off on a hilarious, hair-raising escapade.
Family | PG The live-action adaptation of Disney’s animated classic.
Frozen
Toy Story 2
Animation | PG Anna and Kristoff battle the elements in a race to save the kingdom.
Animation | G Join Woody, Buzz and Jessie on an adventure to infinity and beyond!
Toy Story
Toy Story 3
Animation | G Join Woody, Buzz and the gang in an adventure full of humour and heart.
Animation | G Woody, Buzz and the Toy Story gang return for a new adventure. ©2019 Disney Enterprises, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Romance | MA15+ Rachael Morgan arrives in Hamburg to be reunited with her husband Lewis.
© 2019 WBEI
Nancy Drew and the Hidden Staircase Family | PG Carson Drew decides to make a fresh start with his daughter, Nancy, in River Heights.
Moana Animation | PG Moana and Maui set sail on a journey across the ocean.
EN T ER TA IN MEN T
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> HEROES COMEDY & DUOS. VILLAINS.
©2019 MARVEL
©2019 Disney/Marvel
©2019 MARVEL
Marvel’s Guardians of the Galaxy
Captain America: Civil War
Doctor Strange
Action | M Meet Marvel’s new team in an action-packed, epic space adventure.
Action | M A clash between Captain America and Iron Man fractures the Avengers.
Action | M A famous neurosurgeon finds powerful magic in a mysterious place.
©2019 MARVEL
©2019 MARVEL
©2019 MARVEL
Avengers: Infinity War
Marvel’s Ant-Man
Action | M A legendary hero rises in Marvel Studios’ Black Panther. Panther
Action | M The Avengers risk it all in a showdown with Thanos.
Action | PG Scott Lang embraces his inner hero to save the world in Ant-Man.
©1999 Touchstone Pictures
Black Panther
> FOREIGN FILMS.
> FAVOURITE MOVIES. 10 Things I Hate About You Comedy | PG Cameron instantly falls for the girl of his dreams.
Godzilla (2014)
Lost, Found
Action | M When a creature rises to restore balance, humanity stands defenceless.
Drama | M Li Jie is fighting her ex-husband over the custody of their daughter Duoduo, when the little girl goes missing.
> TELEVISION.
© 2019 WBEI
© 2019 ABC Studios
Splitting Up Together (Season 2)
Scandal (Season 1)
Comedy | M Lena and Martin were madly in love but time and circumstance took their toll. Finding themselves in a platonic marriage, they decide that everyone’s lives would be better if they got a divorce.
Drama | G Olivia Pope, former head of media relations to the President of the United States, opens her own firm. She and her team use their skills to become the most formidable problem solvers in Washington.
© 2019 Pilgrim Films and Television, LLC. All rights reserved.
© 2019 WBEI TM & © DC Comics
© 2019 Disney
© 2019 Disney
Wicked Tuna (Season 8)
Black Lightning (Seasons 1 & 2)
Raven’s Home (Season 2)
Big City Greens (Season 1)
Lifestyle | PG The captains of Gloucester mourn the loss of their beloved Pinwheel mate.
Drama | M Jefferson is Black Lightning, a hero with the power to control electricity.
Kids | G Raven and Chelsea raise their three children together.
Kids | G The Green family moves from the country to the big city.
© 2019 Disney
© 2019 Comedy Partners. All Rights Reserved.
© 2019 ABC Studios
Disney Tsum Tsum (Season 3)
MTV Unplugged: Amy Shark
Once Upon a Time (Seasons 1, 2 & 4)
Kids | G The Tsums create collectible memories of themselves.
Lifestyle Amy Shark takes the stage in a monumental performance in Melbourne.
Drama | PG Fairy tale characters inhabit a land of good and evil.
© 2019 WBEI
Bunnicula (Season 2) Kids | G Mina discovers Bunnicula and adopts him as a pet, not knowing he has special abilities.
EN T ER TA IN MEN T
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> MUSIC VIDEOS.
> ALBUMS.
Lil Nas X
Live at Sydney Opera House Paul Kelly
Music For The Masses (Deluxe) Depeche Mode
This double album captures Paul’s show from the Opera House forecourt. It features songs from his awardwinning album Life Is Fine, as well as classics like “To Her Door”, “How To Make Gravy” and many more.
Rooted in the UK’s late 70s New Romantic movement, Depeche Mode formed in 1980 with a pioneering synthesiser-based sound. According to Slantmagazine, this album “is steeped in high drama”.
Hurts 2B Human P!nk
Father Of The Bride Vampire Weekend
P!nk’s eighth studio album debuted at number one on the US Billboard 200 album chart. The album reflects on love, loss and maturity, and includes duets with Cash Cash, Wrabel and Khalid, on the title track “Hurts 2B Human”.
After months of anticipation and a slew of positive early reviews, Vampire Weekend’s fourth album is here for your listening pleasure. The American indie rock band is led by vocalist Ezra Koenig with bassist Chris Baio and drummer Chris Tomson.
> PODCASTS & RADIO.
The Bump Pure Gold HIT Network: Carrie & Tommy I Don’t Know How She Does It – Travel: Lexi Connors Osher Gunsberg Podcast: Adam Briggs ChillZone Hitched: The Party
New Hits Various The freshest new clips from today’s biggest artists featuring Lil Nas X and Billy Ray Cyrus, Billie Eilish, Ruel, The Chainsmokers and Halsey, 5 Seconds Of Summer, Amy Shark, Lewis Capaldi, Kygo and Rita Ora.
00s + 10s Various Millennium hits for you to enjoy featuring Lady Gaga, Guy Sebastian, George Ezra, Lorde, Katy Perry, Aerosmith, P!nk and Shawn Mullins.
90s Various DJ Jazzy Jeff and The Fresh Prince, C+C Music Factory, Britney Spears, BackStreet Boys, B*Witched, Whitney Houston, Ricky Martin and Lenny Kravitz are just some of the nineties hit music artists included in this line-up.
80s Various Featuring awesome 80s clips from 1927, Billy Ocean, Run-DMC, Elton John, Thompson Twins, Wham!, The Human League and Bonnie Tyler.
Feed Play Love: Shevonne Hunt The Property Couch: Bryce Holdaway & Ben Kingsley Triple M Network: Moonman in the Morning NOVA Network: Fitzy & Wippa Podcast One Australia: Aussies In Hollywood
I Don’t Know How She Does It – Girls: Maddy Ritchie Lady Startup: Samantha Wills HIT Network: Fifi, Fev & Byron Game on AUS: Pete Curulli & Dan Van Der Meer The Hits
SYDNEY. >
TAXI ABOUT $45
>
>
AIRPORT TO CIT Y Touching down in a new city? Here's how to get to the centre of the action your way.
>
TIP... The Experience WA smartphone app gives you access to the latest information on local tourist attractions, restaurants, accommodation, transport options and more.
> TIP... Trains and buses from the airport start around 5am daily and end at midnight.
TAXI ABOUT $30
>
>
>
> BUS $5.80 While it does not head into the CBD, Route 400 operates between Bondi Junction in the city’s east and Burwood in the west. You can catch the bus from outside the T1 International and T3 Domestic terminals.
>
TAXI ABOUT $40
BUS $4.80 Bus Route 380, which takes its name from the Airbus A380 aircraft, departs T1 and T2 and is a limited stops service, terminating at Elizabeth Quay Bus Station in the city centre. For those travelling from T3 and T4, Route 40 operates daily between the airport and Elizabeth Quay Bus Station.
TRAIN $18.70 Catching a train into the city is easy and takes about 10 minutes. Grab the T8 Airport and South Line towards City Circle, which stops at Central Station.
ADELAIDE.
PERTH.
“I LOVE TO TRAVEL AND I’LL TAKE ANY FLIGHT, ANYWHERE.” JAMIE LEE CURTIS (AMERICAN ACTRESS)
MELBOURNE. (TULLAMARINE)
BUS $10.40 (DAYTRIP) The JetBus and doubledecker JetExpress airport to city services depart the terminal from Sir Richard Williams Avenue and stop at Currie Street in the city centre. From there, it is just a short walk to Adelaide Oval, Rundle Mall and the city’s main train station on North Terrace.
> TIP... If you are staying in the city of churches for the weekend, purchase a $25 Metrocard Visitor Pass. The ticket gives tourists unlimited travel on buses, trains and trams across three consecutive days.
TAXI ABOUT $65
>
BUS $19.50 The Skybus Melbourne City Express departs the airport every 10 minutes and stops at the busy inner city Southern Cross Station. From there, you can catch another bus, train, tram or slip into a cab at the taxi stand located directly outside on Spencer Street.
> TIP... Explore the CBD onboard the free City Circle tourist tram between 10am and 9pm from Thursday to Saturday and between 10am and 6pm from Sunday to Wednesday.
MELBOURNE. (AVALON)
> TAXI ABOUT $130 TO MELBOURNE, $50 TO GEELONG >
BUS $22 TO MELBOURNE, $18 TO GEELONG The SkyBus Avalon City Express takes about an hour to travel from Avalon Airport to Southern Cross Station in Melbourne CBD. If you are heading to Geelong, the SkyBus Avalon Geelong Express takes about 40 minutes to reach the port town.
> TIP... Download the handy Avalon Airport smartphone app for information about transport, car hire, parking and flight schedules.
T HE IN SIDER
BRISBANE.
GOLD COAST.
HOBART.
>
>
>
TAXI ABOUT $45
> TRAIN $18.50 The Airtrain is a quick and easy option for travelling from the airport into the city. Trains depart every 15 minutes during peak hour and every 30 minutes during off-peak periods. The Airtrain takes just 20 minutes to get to Central Station in the city centre. The service starts at 5am on weekdays and 6am on weekends and the last train departs at 10pm. >
TIP... Download the BNE app to help you find transport options, maps, where to dine and shop, parking information and more.
TAXI ABOUT $60
> BUS $21 The SkyBus Gold Coast Airport Shuttle operates seven days a week and is a dedicated service for visitors travelling from the airport to the Gold Coast’s most popular tourist spots. The shuttle departs from outside the airport terminal and stops at Burleigh Heads, Broadbeach, Surfers Paradise and Southport.
>
TAXI ABOUT $30
> BUS $6 The Airport Connect bus departs from Cairns Airport every 30 minutes from 4.30am until the last flight of the day. The bus takes passengers on a 10-minute trip to a bus depot at Sheridan Street in the city, where they can continue their journey on a Translink public bus. Alternatively, you can book a shuttle into the city for $6 one-way with Backpacker Shuttle Cairns. > TIP... Remember your hat all year round – even in winter, temperatures can rise to a heavenly 26°C.
“I’M INSPIRED BY THE PEOPLE I MEET ON MY TRAVELS – HEARING THEIR STORIES, SEEING THE HARDSHIPS THEY OVERCOME, THEIR FUNDAMENTAL OPTIMISM AND DECENCY.” BARACK OBAMA (FORMER UNITED STATES’ PRESIDENT)
TAXI ABOUT $50
> “I HAVE NO SPECIAL TALENTS. I AM ONLY PASSIONATELY CURIOUS.” ALBERT EINSTEIN (LATE NOBEL-PRIZE WINNING PHYSICIST)
BUS $19.50 The SkyBus Hobart Express service operates daily and departs regularly from the airport. The bus takes about 30 minutes to travel to the city centre, stopping at Brooke street Pier before terminating at 19 Macquarie Street, which is located behind the Grand Chancellor Hotel.
> TIP... Download the Hobart Cabs 131 008 smartphone app to order and track your taxi from the airport. For everything to see, eat, sleep, shop and play in Hobart, get The Guides by Lonely Planet app.
> TIP... Gold Coast Cabs offer special flat rate fares from the airport to accommodation located in Surfers Paradise ($65) or Broadbeach ($55).
CAIRNS.
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BALLINA.
DARWIN.
> TAXI ABOUT $100 TO BYRON BAY
>
>
BUS $7.20 The Route 640 bus from Ballina Airport takes close to an hour to make the 37-kilometre journey to the popular beachside town of Byron Bay.
> TIP... If you prefer to have your transport organised and booked in advance, check out the Ballina Byron Gateway Airport website for information about shuttle bus services. For those who want to explore and find their own way, all major car rental companies are represented at the airport.
TAXI ABOUT $30
>
BUS PRICE ON BOOKING The Darwin City Airport Shuttle Service is available seven days a week to take you from the airport to your accommodation in the city. The shuttle departs every 20 minutes during peak period and services all major flights to the airport. Online bookings must be made 24 hours in advance.
> TIP... If you are staying at the Mercure Darwin Airport Resort or Novotel Darwin Airport Hotel, a free shuttle bus service is available for transfer from the terminal to your accommodation.
BALI. >
TOKYO. “THE WHOLE WORLD IS TRULY ACCESSIBLE TO US IF WE HAVE THE WILL AND DETERMINATION TO GO OUT AND MAKE THINGS HAPPEN. NO OTHER GENERATION HAS EVER HAD THAT BEFORE.” BEAR GRYLLS (BRITISH TELEVISION PRESENTER AND ADVENTURER)
TAXI ABOUT $7 TO KUTA
>
BUS $2 There are a range of bus options to choose from but a popular choice is the bright green Kura-Kura tourist bus, which stops at most major locations across the island. The closest departure point to the airport is outside the Aston Kuta Hotel, which is a brisk 16-minute walk from the terminal.
(NARITA AIRPORT)
>
TAXI ABOUT $250
>
>
TRAIN $37 The Narita Express or N’EX departs every 25 to 40 minutes and takes under an hour to reach Tokyo Station. Buy your ticket at JR EAST Travel Service Centers, which are located inside each of the three airport terminals.
> BUS $11 The Keisei group’s Tokyo Shuttle takes 90 minutes to reach the city centre near Tokyo Station.
> TIP... Knowing how to say a few phrases in the local lingo can go a long way in Bali. To ask a local to help you call for a taxi, try saying, “Bisa tolong untuk telepon dan order taksi?”
OSAKA. (KANSAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT)
> TIP... Grab the free shuttle to travel between the airport’s three terminals.
TAXI ABOUT $250
> TRAIN $28 Ride the Kansai Airport Express Haruka to Tennoji Station. There you can easily catch another train to Osaka or stay on the same train and head directly to Kyoto, which takes about 75 minutes. >
BUS $19 Travel in luxury aboard the Kansai International Airport Limousine Bus, which will take you directly to Osaka or Kyoto (for $31).
> TIP... Taxis are expensive. Travel by train or bus instead.
HO CHI MINH CITY.
SINGAPORE.
FIJI.
>
>
> TAXI ABOUT $10 TO NADI
TAXI ABOUT $10
> BUS $1 The Route 109 bus departs the airport every 15 to 20 minutes between 5.30am and 1am. The bus travels to the city centre (District 1), terminating at 23/9 Park via Pham Ngu Lao backpacker district and the Ben Thanh bus station. Travel time depends on traffic, but the yellow bus generally takes about 30 minutes to reach the city. > TIP... Show the name of your hotel to the bus conductor so the driver can tell you where to get off. It is also handy to have a map available on your phone.
TAXI ABOUT $35
> TRAIN $2 The Changi Airport MRT Station (CG2) is located under Terminal 2. Take the train to Tanah Merah station and change to the East West Line heading towards City Hall. > BUS $9 The City Shuttle bus departs every 15 minutes during peak periods and every 30 minutes during off-peak. The trip to the city takes 25 minutes and stops at most major hotels. > TIP... Save your roaming budget and connect to the free Wi-Fi at Changi Airport.
> “I LOVE BEING UP IN THE AIR. I LOVE THE FREEDOM.” ANGELINA JOLIE (AMERICAN ACTRESS, ACTIVIST AND PILOT)
BUS $11 Airport Shuttle Fiji operate a 24-hour shuttle service from Nadi International Airport to most major hotels and resorts in Nadi. Bookings must be made at least one day prior to arriving at the airport.
> TIP... It is an offence for taxi drivers to take passengers without having their meter running. If your driver is not using a meter, note the taxi registration number and report it to the police. The driver may have their license suspended and receive a fine.
A IRP O R T T O CI T Y
AUCKLAND. >
TAXI ABOUT $60
> BUS $16 The SkyBus departs the airport every 10 minutes and takes approximately 55 minutes to arrive in the centre of Auckland. Alternatively, Super Shuttle can take you straight to your accommodation for $23 for the first passenger and $9 for every extra passenger travelling in the same group. >
TIP... The Auckland Transport mobile app makes it easy to move around the city. Download the app to help you plan and track AT Metro buses, trains and ferry services in real time.
QUEENSTOWN. >
TAXI ABOUT $25
> BUS $5 The Orbus departs the airport every 15 minutes and takes approximately 25 minutes to reach the town centre. For $13, you can opt to share an 11-seater Super Shuttle for a convenient, tailored door-to-door journey from Queenstown Airport to your accommodation. > TIP... If your accommodation is anywhere in the centre of Queenstown, you can simply rely on foot power to get around – most things in the adventure capital are within easy walking distance.
HONG KONG. >
TAXI ABOUT $50
>
TRAIN $20 The Airport Express departs every 10 minutes and takes around 24 minutes to reach Hong Kong Station in the bustling business district.
>
BUS $6 The Cityflyer route A21 is ideal for travellers heading into the city and perfect for those who want a preview of Hong Kong from the bus window. Buses depart every 15-20 minutes from the airport.
> TIP... Download the MTR Next Train app to keep track of real-time train schedules.
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HAWAII. (DANIEL K INOUYE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT)
> TAXI ABOUT $61 TO WAIKIKI >
BUS $4 Routes 19 and 20 depart from the second-level roadway at Honolulu Airport and stop off at downtown Honolulu, Ala Moana Shopping Centre and the hotel-dense Waikiki precinct.
> TIP... Taxi drivers are referred to as “ambassadors of aloha”. They are proud of their island and love pointing out landmarks and places of interest. Ask questions – you never know what local secrets you might learn.
W HE RE W E F LY Here’s how to get around our network – have fun planning your next trip.
INTERNATIONAL. Seoul
Shanghai (Pudong) Guiyang
Tho Xuan Vinh Dong Hoi
Da Nang Siem Reap Bangkok Phnom Penh
Penang Medan
Nagoya (Chubu)
Okinawa
Shantou/Jieyang Hong Kong Haikou Sanya
Chiang Mai
Phuket
Osaka (Kansai)
Taipei
Guangzhou Hanoi
Yangon
Tokyo (Narita)
Xuzhou
Zhengzhou
Hawaii (Honolulu)
Clark
Manila
Ho Chi Minh City
Phu Quoc
Kuala Lumpur
Singapore Jakarta Surabaya
Bali (Denpasar) Darwin Fiji (Nadi)
Cairns
Cook Islands (Rarotonga)
Brisbane
Gold Coast
Perth
Sydney Adelaide
Flights are operated by Jetstar Airways and commence 8 December (Gold Coast–Seoul), subject to regulatory approval Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Jetstar Asia Operated by Jetstar Pacific Operated by Jetstar Japan
Auckland
Melbourne (Tullamarine)
Wellington Christchurch Queenstown
T HE IN SIDER
DOMESTIC VIETNAM.
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DOMESTIC JAPAN.
Hanoi Sapporo
Hai Phong Thanh Hoa Vinh
Shonai
Dong Hoi Nagoya (Chubu)
Hue Da Nang Chu Lai
Matsuyama Osaka Fukuoka Takamatsu Nagasaki Oita Kochi Kumamoto Miyazaki Kagoshima
Quy Nhon
Pleiku
Tokyo (Narita) (Kansai)
Tuy Hoa Buon Ma Thuot Nha Trang Da Lat
Okinawa Miyako (Shimojishima)
Ho Chi Minh City
Phu Quoc
Operated by Jetstar Pacific
Operated by Jetstar Japan
AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND.
Auckland Napier
New Plymouth
Darwin
Nelson Cairns Townsville Hamilton Whitsunday Coast Island Mackay
Queenstown
Sunshine Coast
Ayers Rock (Uluru)
Brisbane
Palmerston North Wellington
Christchurch Dunedin
Operated by Jetstar Airways Operated by Eastern Australia Airlines for Jetstar Airways
Gold Coast Ballina Byron Newcastle
Perth
Sydney
Adelaide
Melbourne (Tullamarine)
Auckland
Melbourne (Avalon) Wellington
Launceston Hobart
Operated by Jetstar Airways
Christchurch Queenstown
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© Lovatts Puzzles
PICTURE A
PICTURE B
QUIZ 1 At 3776 metres, what is the highest mountain in Japan? 2 What metal is alloyed with tin to make bronze and with zinc to make brass? 3 What is the name given to the older adult male mountain gorilla that leads and protects the troop? 4 How many white five-pointed stars are there on the flag of the Cook Islands?
CROSSWORD Across 7 Courageous person (4) 8 Seven-sided figure (8) 9 Manual worker (8) 10 Misplacement (4) 11 Pioneering aviator, ... Kingsford Smith (7) 13 First name of picture A (5) 15 Mulholland Drive star, ... Watts (5) 17 Payments for good deeds (7) 21 First name of picture B (4) 23 Circus tumblers (8) 24 Baptise (8) 25 Double-reed instrument (4) Down 1 Disengage (6) 2 Three-dimensional image (8) 3 Surname of picture C (6) 4 Clever person, bright ... (5) 5 Australia’s 24th PM, ... Keating (4) 6 Japanese plant-dwarfing art (6) 12 Knight’s honorific (3) 14 Almanac (8) 16 Lack of enthusiasm (6) 18 Small chore (6) 19 Current Minister for Home Affairs, Peter ... (6) 20 2019 French Open women’s singles champ, Ash ... (5) 22 Big-scale movie (4)
PICTURE C
5 What is the name of the Golden Globe-winning American actress who stars in the Netflix thriller series Stranger Things? 6 What word was misspelled in the micro-text of the Australian $50 note in a recent print run? 7 Grey Lynn, Herne Bay and Parnell are suburbs of which major New Zealand city? 8 What kind of acid forms and accumulates in muscles during intense exercise?
CROSSWORD AND PUZZLES COMPILED BY LOVATTS
QUIZ BY K AITLYN PALMER-ALLEN
9 What shape is a wombat’s scat (poop): round, rectangular or cube-shaped? 10 How do you say “Hello” in Hawaiian, the Polynesian language spoken in Hawaii? 11 What is the name of the new toy that joined Big Ted, Little Ted and the others on Australian children’s TV show Play School in 2019? 12 How old is Australian Prime Minister Scott Morrison (as of September 2019)?
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13 Which city is actually closer in distance to Sydney: Melbourne or the Gold Coast? 14 Diamond and graphite are allotropes (different physical forms) of which element? 15 Monarch, Painted Lady and Red Admiral are all types of what kind of creature? 16 “Send ‘er down, Hughie!” is an Australian phrase that is uttered at the onset of, or in the hope of, what?
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Create words of 4 letters or more using the given letters once only, but always including the middle letter. Do not use proper names or plurals ending with S. See if you can find the 9-letter word using up all letters.
7 good
10 very good
13+ excellent
17 Which two Game of Thrones stars (left) met on the set of the show and married in Scotland in 2018? 18 An all star cast including Bryan Brown, Sam Neill, Greta Scacchi and Richard E Grant appear in an Australian movie named after what Sydney beachside suburb? 19 Polynesia, Micronesia and Melanesia are three major groups of islands located in which ocean? 20 What simple sugar is the body’s main source of fuel? SOLUTIONS ON PAGE 126
Find the solutions on page 126.
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BARBERRY BLUEBERRY EL DERBERRY G O O SEBERRY G R APE LO G A NBERRY M UL BERRY
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What outdoor sport do spiders like when camping?
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Fly fishing.
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What happened when the wolf swallowed a clock? He got ticks.
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He was competing against a cheetah. Why did the man get heartburn after eating birthday cake? He forgot to take off the candles.
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SO URCE: FU NKIDS JOKES.C O M
One fish, two fish, red fish and a blue fish!
Check, please! What is as big as a hippopotamus but weighs nothing?
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What did the chess player say to the waitress?
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Its shadow.
P U ZZLES
Can you spot the EIGHT DIFFERENCES between these two images? Circle what’s changed on the image below.
1 MOVIES Test your knowledge with these super fun, totally awesome trivia questions.
1 Gaston and LeFou are characters from which Disney movie? 2 “You’ve Got a Friend in Me” is the main song from which Disney series? 3 On which island does Moana live?
2 GEOGRAPHY 1 What is the capital city of Japan? 2 Which New Zealand city is north of Wellington: Auckland or Christchurch? 3 The United States of America is made up of how many states?
3 TELEVISION 1 Stranger Things is set in which fictional American town? 2 Bunnicula was once the pet of which person? 3 The city of San Fransokyo is featured in which series?
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Handford, 019 Martin s reserved. © 1987–2 ht ? rig ly ll al A W d. Where’s r Books Lt by Walke published
More things to find...
A pair of date palms
Four naval oranges
A kiwi fruit
Six crab apples
Blueberries in blue berets
A pine apple
P U ZZLES
Three fruit fools
A can of fruit
Two peach halves
Cooking apples
Seven wild cherries
Cranberry saws
A banana tree
Goose berries
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SOLUTIONS CROSSWORD
T D H H E H E R O O T L L A B O U R E C G P C H A R L E S I A R N A O M I B P A C D A V E R T P C H R I S T E C Y Y
S B P P T A G O U N A L O S R A K K Y L I E E W A R D U R R R O B A T O T A O B O N N K D
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WHEEL WORDS Ahoy, Airy, Boar, Brag, Bray, Garb, Grab, Hair, Harp, Pair, Pray, Yoga, Abhor, Graph, Hairy, Harpy, Hoary, Phobia. 9-letter word: BIOGRAPHY
QUIZ 11 Kiya 12 51 13 The Gold Coast 14 Carbon 15 Butterfly 16 Rain 17 Kit Harington and Rose Leslie 18 Palm Beach 19 Pacific Ocean 20 Glucose
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© Lovatts Puzzles
1 Mount Fuji 2 Copper 3 Silverback 4 15 5 Winona Ryder 6 Responsibility 7 Auckland 8 Lactic acid 9 Cube 10 Aloha
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1 The second ‘n’ is missing in ‘Sunnyside’. 2 The colour of Buzz’s red button is different. 3 Mrs Potato Head has an extra eye. 4 Woody’s eyebrows are missing. 5 The colour of the flower on Mrs Potato Head’s hat is different.
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6 The alien’s antenna is missing. 7 There’s an air vent in the ceiling. 8 The colour of Jessie’s hair is different.
Movies
Geography
Television
1 Beauty and
1 Tokyo
1 Hawkins,
the Beast
2 Auckland
Indiana
2 Toy Story
3 50
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3 Motunui
3 Big Hero 6
Receive a free flight2 and a free 12 month Club Jetstar membership1 when approved for a Jetstar Mastercard^
Get these fantastic Jetstar benefits with your card A free 12 month Club Jetstar membership1 ^ A free one-way domestic flight between selected city pairs2 ^ $0 first year annual fee for the Jetstar Mastercard and a discounted first year annual fee of $69 for the Jetstar Platinum Mastercard3 ^ No Payment Fee# Choose between the Jetstar Dollars or Qantas Frequent Flyer rewards program
For direct bookings with Jetstar
10% off on-board food and drink purchases#
For more information and to apply, go to jetstar.com/cards Macquarie Bank Limited Australian Credit Licence 237502 is the issuer of the Jetstar Mastercard.^For new applicants who are approved between 12:01am AEST 26 June 2019 and 11:59pm AEST 30 September 2019 and spend $1,000 AUD on eligible purchases on their card within 60 days of card approval. Terms and conditions, fees and charges apply, may change without notice, and are available upon request. 1.You will receive a AUD $49 Jetstar voucher for use for the first 12 months Club Jetstar annual fee. Your voucher will be emailed to you within 60 days of meeting qualifying criteria. 2. Cardholders will be notified by email within 60 days of meeting qualifying criteria for the free flight and must redeem this offer within 12 months of receiving this email. 3. The primary card holder annual fee for the Jetstar Mastercard is waived first year ($0), then $69 annual fee ongoing. The primary card holder fee for the Jetstar Platinum Mastercard is $69 for the first year, then $169 annual fee ongoing. Annual fees are subject to change. #Terms & Conditions apply, visit jetstar.com/cards and the Jetstar MasterCard Rewards Terms and Conditions for more information. Jetstar Airways Pty Ltd â&#x20AC;&#x201C; ABN: 33 069 720 243
1 28
T HE IN SIDER
HIGHER. BIGGER. FASTER. LONGER. EACH ISSUE WE FOCUS ON A PL ACE PU NCHING ABOVE ITS WEIG H T
> The hotel industry has been around a lot longer than you might think. Long before the Hiltons and Marriotts of the world, we had Nishiyama Onsen Keiunkan (keiunkan.co.jp/en) – a Japanese inn that once hosted battle-worn samurai who soothed their aching muscles in the healing waters of the hotel’s hot spring. More than 1300 years later, the inn is still in operation and, in 2011, the Guinness World Records officially recognised it as the world’s oldest hotel. Located in the Yamanashi Prefecture, a three-hour drive west of Tokyo, the traditional onsen (hot spring) hotel dates back to 705 AD. Since then, the establishment has been run by the same family for an incredible 52 generations. Over the centuries, it has been modernised – the inn now has four open-air baths, two indoor baths and 37 Japanese-style rooms – but the owners have taken care to retain its historical character. For many visitors to Japan, staying at a hot-spring hotel is a novelty but at Nishiyama Onsen Keiunkan it’s a steeped-in-history experience that’s as unique as it is old.
SAPPORO
JAPA N
N I S H I YA M A ONSEN KEIUNKAN
TOKYO OSAKA
W O R D S _ K A I T LY N PA L M E R-A L L E N
THE PERFECT VLOGGERS CAMERA Canon Powershot G7 X Mark III Advanced Compact
For the modern multimedia-savvy user, comes the New Canon Powershot G7X III. Like previous offerings in this Advanced Compact Digital Camera range, the G7X III will impress with its excellent mix of quality and usability, as well as its streamline design. Image quality from the stacked 20.1MP 1-inch CMOS sensor and DIGIC 8 processor is exceptional, right down to the Video capture, which is available at up to 4K30p. The versatile 4.2x optical zoom lens features a fast f1.8-2.8 aperture rating, which enables impressive subject isolation and low-light shooting, the latter of which is further supported by the inclusion of an Optical Image Stabiliser.
109995
$
20MP 30 1” CMOS SENSOR
FRAMES PER SEC
3.0”
TILT/TOUCH SCREEN
24-100MM ZOOM
4K VIDEO
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