- ADVENTURE ALL AREAS -
L AU N CE S TO N
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YO U R N E X T H O LI DAY O F A LI FE TIM E I S I N N O R TH E R N TA S M A N I A
F O O D + D R I N K // A D V E N T U R E // R O A D T R I P S // L O C A L S E C R E T S
WELCOME TO NORTHERN TASMANIA What if you could combine everything you loved in the one destination? Great food, amazing hikes, bikes and drives, those perfect, special indulgences and, of course, meeting fabulous locals. Launceston and Northern Tasmania has all this – and so much more. For a holiday you’ll never forget, step this way...
BARNBOUGLE GOLF COURSE TAMAR VALLEY
PIEMAN RIVER
BLUE DERBY
CRADLE MOUNTAIN
LAUNCESTON AIRPORT
PYENGANA DAIRY FARM
FREYCINET MARINE PARK
WINEGLASS BAY
CONTENTS
EDITOR Jo McKay DESIGNERS Jon Gregory Lisa Emmanuel SUB-EDITOR Kyle Rankin CONTRIBUTORS Andrew Bain Hilary Burden Alexis Buxton-Collins Chris Crerar Mark Daffey Pilar Mitchell Stephanie Williams
Published by Medium Rare Content Agency Pty Ltd, ABN 83 169 879 921, Upper Ground Suite 58, 26-32 Pirrama Road, Pyrmont, NSW 2009 for Jetstar Airways Pty Ltd, ABN 33 069 720 243. ©2019. All rights reserved.
Launceston
02
The East Coast Drive
04
Adventure
06
Local Legend: Craig
09
Tamar Valley Wine Route
10
The West Coast Drive
12
Local Legend: George
14
Food + Drink
15
Devonport
19
Cradle Mountain
20
Stanley
22
Local Legend: Mark
23
The Barnbougle Drive
24
Freycinet
26
Local Legend: Ange
27
Blue Derby
28
Local Legend: Belinda
30
Put it in the Diary
31
Seasonal Guide
32
FIRS T BASIN O N T HE S O U T H ESK RIVER, L AU N CES TO N
SPEND THE WEEKEND
GER O NIM O
No wonder everyone is talking about Launceston – fabulous food, picturesque scenery and vibrant cultural attractions have put the riverside city on the map.
GERONIMO This stylish aperitivo bar and restaurant is the perfect spot for a pre-dinner drink but it’s also worth staying for the menu that makes the most of abundant local produce. Be warned, though: the tempting plates of European-inspired dishes are designed to share but they’re so good you may want to keep them all for yourself. geronimorestaurant.com.au SWEETBREW For a great start to the day, find a cosy nook inside or grab a seat out front and watch Launceston awaken. They take their coffee seriously here, with several options including a great cold brew and a rotating single origin. Enjoy it with a pastry or one of the colourful vegetarian brunch choices. fb.me/sweetbrewespresso SAINT JOHN CRAFT BEER BAR With almost 200 options, it’s easy to be mesmerised by the wall of beer on display at this cool bar. It’s the first thing you notice upon entering, followed by the passionate bartenders who are more than happy to help you
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THE NUMBER OF HATTED RESTAURANTS IN LAUNCESTON
OLD UMBRELL A SHOP Entering this 1860s building is like stepping into a time capsule. For three generations, the Shott family helped to shelter Launceston locals from the elements and the shop still features original Victorian-era fittings. Today there’s a collection of umbrellas on display and for sale, as well as a range of locally made souvenirs. nationaltrust.org.au
S WEE TBRE W
DESIG N TASM A NIA
navigate the exceptionally long menu. Get acquainted with Tasmanian brews or something from further afield. Peckish? In the evenings, you can buy tasty morsels from their street-food van parked outside. saintjohncraftbeer.com.au L AUNCESTON HERITAGE WALKS The city’s magnificent early colonial and Georgian architecture has remained largely unchanged for more than a century. The best way to appreciate Launceston’s majestic buildings is the same way the early settlers did – on foot. Three wheelchair-accessible walking trails take in Launceston’s green spaces and well-preserved warehouses, hotels and public buildings. Each has its own fascinating story. destinationlaunceston.com.au
SAIN T JO H N CR AF T BEER BAR
DESIGN TASMANIA Celebrating contemporary forms and design from around the island, Design Tasmania’s art is not just for hanging on walls and admiring from afar. Pieces created using Tasmanian timber take centre stage in the gallery and the adjoining shop is packed with hand-made jewellery, ceramics, glasswork and woodwork crafted by local artisans. designtasmania.com.au QUEEN VICTORIA MUSEUM AND ART GALLERY You could spend many hours wandering around this local favourite, which is spread over two buildings connected by the free Tiger Bus. Colonial paintings and shipwreck artefacts jostle for space with an intact Chinese temple and blacksmith shop, but perhaps the most moving exhibits are those dedicated to Tasmania’s Indigenous inhabitants and the thylacine – commonly known as the Tasmanian Tiger, which is now sadly extinct. qvmag.tas.gov.au
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SLEEPOVER TWOFOURTWO These neat boutique apartments are filled with local artworks and lit by lovely natural light. If you plan on using the kitchen, you’ll have to resist the temptation of the great cafés and restaurants right on the doorstep. twofourtwo.com.au PEPPERS SILO HOTEL Taking industrial chic to new levels, this hotel is housed in four former grain silos. Rooms have curved concrete walls and expansive river views. Plus, newspapers are delivered each morning by Archie, the resident black labrador. peppers.com.au/silo
ROAD TRIP
THE E A S T COA S T DRIVE
333K M
You can’t miss these vivid orange-dusted boulders. Painted this unusual hue by lichens (an algae-fungus hybrid), these granite rocks punctuating the beaches that fringe the turquoise waters of the Bay of Fires (pictured) are a dramatic sight. Set less than three hours’ drive north-east of Launceston, this picturesque shoreline is the perfect spot to stop for a swim in a secluded cove and picnic on a secret beach. You can take the scenic route south from here through Freycinet National Park, towards the crescent-shaped Wineglass Bay – counted among the world’s best beaches – to discover pink granite headlands, beautiful bays and charming coastal towns.
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B AY O F F I R E S
LAUNCESTON
FREYCINET W I N E G L A S S B AY
H I T I T...
ADVENTURE Want to hike trails, dive into canyons, climb mountains or kayak rivers? Look no further. Tasmania’s north is an action-packed playground waiting to be explored.
T HE PIEM A N RIVER
KAYAK ON THE PIEMAN RIVER Dawn on the Pieman River is special, with the dark, rainforest-edged waters as reflective and calm as meditation. Hiring a kayak from Corinna, a former gold-mining town, you can paddle downstream to Lovers Falls, where the giant ferns seem almost as tall as the waterfall itself. As you paddle back, turn into Savage River to drift over Australia’s most inland shipwreck, the steamship Croydon, sunk in 1919. The bow of the ship still pokes above the river surface. corinna.com.au
EXPLORE TARKINE FOREST Blanketing Tasmania’s north-west corner is the mighty Tarkine, the world’s second-largest tract of temperate rainforest. At its northern edge, 32 kilometres from Smithton, you can hurtle down a 110-metre-long slide into the green depths of the southern hemisphere’s largest sinkhole. The slide begins in the forest canopy and ends 55 kilometres per hour later at the rainforest floor, where there’s a kilometrelong boardwalk to extend the adventure. dismalswamptasmania.com.au
CLIMB WUKALINA Tasmania’s palawa (Aboriginal) culture lives on in this four-day guided walk along the vibrant Bay of Fires coastline. The first tourism venture from the palawa community begins by climbing Mount William (known as wukalina) near the state’s north-east tip and then threads along the white beaches and lichen-covered granite headlands. Stay the night in an award-winning, architect-designed camp and cottages on Eddystone Point, while the rich history and palawa culture – middens, creation stories and bush tucker – are unveiled along the journey. wukalinawalk.com.au FISH WITH RIVERFLY 1864 Tasmanian trout has a reputation for being the craftiest and most cautious on the planet, so let the hard-earned knowledge of RiverFly 1864’s guides be your secret weapon on the rivers and lakes of northern Tasmania. The one- or threeday fly-fishing trips venture from Launceston to places like Brumby Creek, with its world-class sight fishing, to the wilderness of the Western Lakes, where accommodation is in RiverFly’s private huts at the edge of the breathtaking Walls of Jerusalem National Park. riverfly.com.au HIKE THE WALLS OF JERUSALEM Adjoining Cradle Mountain is a national park with peaks so epic, it took biblical names to describe them. The Walls of Jerusalem National Park is a stunning enclosure of mountains that can be reached from Lake Rowallan, 120 kilometres south-west of Launceston. Here, you can enter the Walls through a pass named Herod’s Gate (a four-hour walk). Once inside, there are mounts to climb (try the Temple, Solomon’s Throne and Mount Jerusalem) or you can simply ponder the scenery – and life – from beside the idyllic Pool of Bethesda. It’s important to note that walks and climbs within the park are challenging, best suited to experienced hikers and campers. parks.tas.gov.au
3.4M
NUMBER OF HECTARES OF PROTECTED AND RESERVED LAND ACROSS THE STATE
W UK AL IN A WALK
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CATAR AC T G ORGE
DISCOVER CATARACT GORGE One of Launceston’s most striking natural features is Cataract Gorge, a deep incision in the hills right at the city centre’s edge. Running through the gorge is a walking trail that leads to the former Duck Reach hydroelectric power station. From here, you can make your way to Trevallyn Dam, one of Launceston’s favourite water playgrounds. The return walk takes around five hours but once you’re back at the gorge’s mouth, you can turn up the adrenaline factor by climbing the cliffs or leaping off them at Penny Royal Adventures. launcestoncataractgorge.com.au; pennyroyallaunceston.com.au
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WALK ALUM CLIFFS The town of Mole Creek, 75 kilometres west of Launceston, is best known for its limestone caves but by the town’s edge is a 1.6-kilometre walking track to the spectacular Alum Cliffs – listed as one of Tasmania’s 60 Great Short Walks. The track crosses a lightly forested ridge and ends at a two-tiered wooden platform staring straight down into a gorge carved by the Mersey River, 200 metres below, and across to the sharp-toothed Alum Cliffs. parks.tas.gov.au DESCEND CRADLE MOUNTAIN CANYONS Most people gaze upwards when visiting Cradle Mountain but one of the national park’s finest adventures actually takes place in the depths of the rock. Beneath Dove Canyon’s quartzite cliffs are a maze of caves and hollowed out formations, which you can explore with Cradle Mountain Canyons. You’ll descend through six waterfalls, leaping, sliding, walking, abseiling and floating downstream. Highlights include a six-metre jump into a churning pool from Freestyle Falls and water-sliding through a smooth rock sluice known as the Laundry Chute. cradlemountaincanyons.com.au
ALU M CL IFFS
TRAVEL TIP The best way to access national parks and adventure experiences is by car. It’s easy to rent one at Launceston airport after you arrive.
N AR AW N TAP U N ATIO N AL PARK
CR ADLE M O U N TAIN CA N YO NS
WATCH NATIVE WILDLIFE AT NARAWNTAPU NATIONAL PARK It has been described as the “Serengeti of Tasmania”. Narawntapu National Park, 95 kilometres from Launceston on Tasmania’s north coast, is home to a profusion of native wildlife. Camp behind Bakers Beach, then at dawn and dusk, make your way to the clearings at Springlawn to wander among the Forester kangaroos, wallabies and wombats that nibble the grass to a golf-green-like finish. parks.tas.gov.au
LOCAL LEGEND
Craig Williams O C C U PAT IO N W IL DL IFE G UIDE S C O T T S DALE L O C AL SIN CE AG E 10
I’M SIXTH GENERATION TASMANIAN, and my son, Ben, is seventh. I started as a wildlife guide more than 20 years ago. It was by accident when the local council asked if I’d sketch a vista of the north-east from the top of The Sideling, a track and lookout near Scottsdale. While I was on the roadside trying to do the sketch, people kept stopping to ask, “What bird is that?” or “What tree is that?” Someone asked if I was a tour guide and I said, “No I’m just trying to do a sketch”. By the time I drove back home to Scottsdale I’d made up my mind to start my own company, Pepper Bush Adventures. I’ve been guiding for two decades now but in the last few years it has become a family business with my son, who also has a passion for nature. We can run separate tours and meet up at our bush hut at the end of the day, swap stories, have some tucker and watch the wildlife. You’re guaranteed to see six species before putting your glass of wine down! Our clients are looking for real experiences so every tour is private. We focus on different species other than just the Tasmanian devil: the platypus, quolls, bandicoots, pademelon… I’ve seen 13 species in one day, which is unheard of in the rest of Australia.
WHILE YOU’RE IN NORTHERN TASSIE … 1. Fish by one of the north-east rivers at night and cook up your catch on a fire as you go. 2. Explore Mount William National Park, where you can walk along a white sandy beach and never see another person. 3. Join our Puggles and Bubbles tour (tasmanianwildlifetours.com.au). Puggles are baby platypus and they’re pretty special.
I was born on the south side of Ben Lomond mountain at Mathinna and moved to Scottsdale on the northern side when I was 10 years old. I’ve spent all my life in the bush; wandering, sleeping under the stars, living off the land, watching nature. My grandfather, uncles and my father were all bushmen and I learnt how to trap from a young age. Ben Lomond’s Tyne Valley is one of the most underestimated places in Tasmania. It has stunning geological landscapes, from Jurassic dolerite to granite and sandstone – and very few people. On our tours, we go up through the Roses Tier and the old growth forests where you’ll hardly ever see another vehicle. You get to see the real Tasmania. I’ve been doing tours through here for so long but until recently it had never crossed my mind to go up the mountain while it was raining. It was the most amazing sight, seeing the water running off Ben Lomond. The whole mountain turns into a series of waterfalls. I never tire of my own backyard. I think it’s the best in the world.
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TA M A R VA L L E Y WI N E R O U T E [ ABOUT 170 KILOMETRES LONG ]
The Tamar Valley has plenty to tempt the palate for food and wine lovers, as Jo McKay finds out during a two-day escape in the region.
YOU HAD ME AT MERLOT > It’s a crisp Saturday morning in Tassie. While it’s around the time I’m usually ordering my second flat white, someone is refilling my wine glass instead. Between you and me, it’s already been re-filled four times. This is less shocking than it seems: I’m at the beginning of a wine-tasting weekend in the Tamar Valley and, trust me, the refilling has been in respectably small measures. This pocket of northern Tasmania is home to some of Australia’s best wine. The cool climate delivers modern chardonnay, elegant pinot gris, snappy riesling, arguably Australia’s best sparkling, and for red-lovers, earthy pinot noir. But for me, what makes this 50-kilometre route such a sensational proposition is its proximity to Launceston. Less than half an hour ago, I was in the heart of town, finishing a tasty bacon butty (complete with HP sauce and havarti) from Bryher Cafe (bryherfood. com). It took less than 15 minutes to get to the
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Josef Chromy cellar door (josefchromy.com.au), where I’m now propping up the tasting bench, sipping chardonnay. Even the furthest away Tamar vineyards are no more than 50 or so kilometres from Launceston’s CBD. This makes it easy to tour the region in just a couple of days, which is exactly what I’m planning to do. At Josef Chromy, there’s a huge line-up on offer. “When it comes to what you can buy and taste, we’ve got a cast of thousands,” jokes David Milne, the brand’s sales and marketing manager. There are three labels to try: Pepik, which David describes as “the Monday to Friday” label, Zdar, the high-end range, and Josef Chromy, “the more complex, dinner-party wines”. It was the 2011 vintage chardonnay from this eponymous range that won the Regional Chardonnay Trophy at the Decanter World Wine Awards and the Tasmanian Chardonnay Trophy at the 2013 International Wine Challenge – wins that put both Josef Chromy and the Tamar Valley on the map. Today, the region boasts over 30 wineries, spread along 170 kilometres of road. It’s aligned somewhat like an upside-down triangle, with Relbia (where Josef Chromy is located) at the base point and two separate arms reaching northwards up the western and eastern sides. I’ve decided to tackle the north-west strip today, stopping at sleek Tamar Ridge (tamarridge. com.au), Stoney Rise (stoneyrise.com) with its awesome pinot noirs, and Wines for Joanie (winesforjoanie.com.au) where tastings are conducted in a rustic-chic barn. I pause a little longer at Goaty Hill (goatyhill.com) because the generous tasting platters are too good to pass up for lunch. Then I hit Holm Oak (holmoakvineyards.com.au), a light-filled
cellar door with stunning views and an adorable resident pig appropriately named Pinot. My final stop is at Grey Sands (greysands.com.au), a little off the beaten track. It’s open once a month for tastings or by appointment, which I highly recommend. Sampling the tight range of five wines while sitting in the verdant garden is an unexpected highlight of the wine trail. It’s said that the Tamar’s sparkling wines are second only to those of Champagne itself – so on Sunday, it seems sensible to head to Australia’s foremost sparkling-only cellar door. Jansz (jansz.com.au) is on the eastern side of the Tamar, about 45 minutes from Launceston. At the rammed-earth cellar door, there are five bubblies for tasting – all exceptional. Nearby, I also check out Sinapius (sinapius.com.au), set on a hilltop with lovely views (plus another smashing chardonnay), and Delamere Vineyards’ (delamerevineyards.com.au) selection of estate-grown fizz. All too soon, the end of the weekend is here and even though there’s more to see, it’s time to head back to the city. I tally up my cellar door score: 10 wineries in two days – a solid strike rate. And in a region where touring is such a breeze, I’ve no doubt I’ll be back for another round very soon.
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ROAD TRIP
THE WES T COA S T DRIVE
413K M
Both wilderness and human history come into focus on this route to Lake St Clair. Break it down over a few days, watching Cradle Mountain shrink in your rear-view mirror as you head towards Rosebery to gaze at Tassie’s tallest waterfall, the 104-metre Montezuma Falls. Next, skim by the impressive Henty Dunes as you approach Strahan, where you can cruise the Gordon River. At Queenstown, the drive climbs through bare landscape (a product of the town’s early mining days), before entering corridors of thick rainforest at the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area. End your drive by the shores of Lake St Clair. Stand here quietly and you just might see a platypus.
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LAUNCESTON ROSEBERY
CRADLE M O U N TA I N
QUEENSTOWN L AKE ST CL AIR STRAHAN
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LOCAL LEGEND
George Doumouras O C C U PAT IO N FIS H M O N G ER G EO R G E T O W N L O C AL F O R 25 YE ARS
FISHING IS LIKE THE music industry – it will never disappear or end. It’s what you make it and it puts you in contact with the whole world. I was born in Greece and came to Australia in 1964. I first started as a fisherman in 1966, fishing for scallops in Victoria’s Port Phillip Bay. I did that for 26 years and then came to Tasmania in 1991 to take over the running of Tamar Fisheries in Beauty Point for my boss in Melbourne. Two years later, an abandoned fish factory came up for sale just across the Tamar River in George Town and I bought it. I wanted to do my own thing and pursue my business career, and I have been running George Town Seafoods ever since. The Tamar Valley is magnificent – although, the whole of Tasmania is beautiful. In terms of fishing, Northern Tasmania is renowned for the small inshore fishery, with waters up to 30 metres deep. Other than scallops, I fish for deep-sea species such as orange roughy, as well as shark, ling, dory and trevalla. For about 15 years, I was the biggest producer of orange roughy, with the main volume being exported to the United States. From 2002, when orange roughy was slowly depleting, we went through a transition. I bought a trawler called Silent Victory. We use it to catch different market fish to supply customers throughout Tasmania.
WHILE YOU’RE IN NORTHERN TASSIE … 1. Watch the sunset over the Tamar River from the riverbank. 2. Go sailing and fishing on the estuary. 3. Enjoy a meal at Gray’s Hotel on Macquarie Street in George Town, York Cove (yorkcove. com.au) or The Pier Hotel (pierhotel.com.au).
These days we also support our own fresh fish outlet in George Town and two farmers’ markets in Launceston and Hobart. I’ve always enjoyed fishing but I don’t do it myself anymore. I have people who run the boat and we have about 80 employees. One of my sons, Chris, works with me, and my younger son, Arthur, has a business in the fish markets in Melbourne. If I have free time, I like gardening or going to one of the excellent restaurants in Launceston, just 30 minutes away. I also support the three local restaurants – and they support us by ordering our fish. I live on the banks of the Tamar River estuary, where the sunsets are breathtaking. I’ve been around the world about three times but the view here is one of the best. There’s a strong sailing community and people catch flathead off the jett y and sometimes snapper a litt le further out. The river provides a lot of goodness, activity and pleasure for us all.
PYEN GA N A DAIRY
T A S T E I T...
FOOD + DRINK Launceston is the gateway to some of Tassie’s finest gastronomic delights. Sip on award-winning wines, feast on fresh, local produce grown on the city’s doorstep and work your way through the best on offer, one meal at a time.
HARVEST COMMUNIT Y FARMERS’ MARKET L AUNCESTON Every Saturday morning, a car park on Cimitiere Street transforms into the beating heart of the town’s food scene, with 40-odd stalls selling everything from free-range duck to sourdough, cider and freshly dug spuds. Farmers share tips with their customers and stallholders are quick to recommend others if they don’t have what you want. Best of all, the volunteer-run market promotes sustainable food production, so it’s all ethically produced and farm-fresh. harvestmarket.org.au
PYENGANA DAIRY FARM GATE CAFÉ PYENGANA Cheese devotees should hotfoot it to the picturesque Farm Gate Café at the awardwinning Pyengana Dairy. Wander down to the robotic dairy to see cows being milked, then head to the café and peer through the floor’s glass pyramid into the cheese cave below before settling in for a meal – the grassy meadow outside has picnic tables with views of the valley and the farm’s lush paddocks. Cheese tastings are available, with more than 15 varieties on offer. Try the Vintage Cloth Bound Cheddar – it put Pyengana on the map. thetasmanianfoodco.com.au
H ARVES T C O M M U NIT Y FARMERS’ M ARKE T
BL ACK C O W BIS TR O
DEVIL’S C ORNER
BL ACK COW BISTRO L AUNCESTON Launceston, or “Lonnie”, as the locals call it, is home to some great restaurants and buzzy eatery, Black Cow Bistro, is one of the best known. Set in a former butchery in Lonnie’s centre, it serves some of the country’s best beef. Top menu picks include the Robbins Island Wagyu rump, which is perfect for sharing, and the Cape Grim rib eye – just try to resist gnawing on the bone. There’s an upscale-yet-unpretentious vibe and the wine list is a corker, too. blackcowbistro.com.au
CHARLOTTEJACK DEVONPORT Two things are immediately apparent when you meet Ben Milbourne: the celebrity cook smiles almost constantly and he’s passionate about north-west Tasmanian produce. His new restaurant in the heart of Devonport shines a light on local farmers, fishers and growers and you can watch him at work from a front-row seat right next to the kitchen. If you want to get even closer to the action, Ben also organises day tours that visit local suppliers, including Ashgrove Cheese, Christmas Hills Raspberry Farm and Ghost Rock Vineyard. charlottejack.com.au DEVIL’S CORNER CELL AR DOOR APSL AWN If sitting on a sun-drenched deck, drinking vino and snacking on seafood share plates and woodfired pizzas sounds like a good time, put Devil’s Corner Cellar Door on your list. Located on the Tasman Highway, this impressive vineyard is hard to miss, thanks to a towering 12-metre-tall lookout with sensational views of the Moulting Lagoon and the Freycinet Peninsula. A word to the wise: climb the stairs to the top before any wine tasting. Afterwards, kick back on the deck as you sample up to 10 wines (Resolution pinot noir is a hit) and feast on mussels, oysters and pizza. devilscorner.com.au
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230 THE NUMBER OF VINEYARDS IN TASMANIA
430 THE NUMBER OF DAIRY FARMS ACROSS THE STATE
HELLYERS R OAD DIS TILLERY
HELLYERS ROAD DISTILLERY BURNIE Once a dairy farm and now a distillery, Hellyers Road is Australia’s biggest whisky brand. Located on prime grazing land on the edge of the town of Burnie, this is the place to learn how the amber liquid is made. Take a guided whisky walk and as the doors to the distillery open, you’ll be engulfed by the rich smell of oak and spirit. Once you taste some of the latest batch direct from the barrel, you might not want to leave. Luckily, there are comfortable seats in the visitor centre where you can sample more of the range and gaze out at the views of Emu Valley and the occasionally snow-covered Black Bluff Ridge. hellyersroaddistillery.com.au JAMES BOAG BREWERY TOUR L AUNCESTON Steeped in history, the James Boag Brewery is one of Australia’s longest operating breweries and a tour of the site offers a brilliant behindthe-scenes look into its past and the beer-making process. The 90-minute experience takes in the brewhouse, fermentation processes, maturation, lagering tanks and the bottling room. You’ll find out about Tassie-grown barley and hops – and can try hops in its dried, pre-beer form. Save yourself for a tasting of three beers, paired with local cheeses at the end of the tour. jamesboag.com.au
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TASTE.WALK.TALK TOUR L AUNCESTON The best way to uncover Lonnie’s gourmet hotspots is with a local. Brock Kerslake, who has called this town home since he was 12, launched his Taste.Walk.Talk tours in 2016 – and they’ve become one of the best experiences in Launceston. Excursions range between two and four hours and Brock, a former school teacher, combines interesting snippets about the city’s past with visits to local foodie gems, including cafés, bars, cider makers, beer brewers, delis, providores and more. tastewalktalk.com FREYCINET MARINE FARM COLES BAY Slurping oysters fresh from the ocean is one of north-east Tassie’s most awesome foodie experiences. On Oyster Bay Tours’ twice-daily expeditions around Freycinet Marine Farm, you wriggle into waders before striding through the shallows to see oysters at home in the estuary. Head back to dry land to learn how to shuck them and enjoy half-a-dozen with a glass of wine and freshly steamed mussels, also grown by Freycinet Marine Farm. Tours leave and return from the Freycinet Marine Farm Shop, so you can feast on oysters, mussels, scallops, abalone, hot-smoked salmon, rock lobster and more – before and after the experience. oysterbaytours.com; freycinetmarinefarm.com
FREYCINE T M ARINE FARM
41° S O U T H TASM A NIA
41° SOUTH TASMANIA DELORAINE Ziggy Pyka takes his salmon seriously. The affable German uses a secret blend of twelve herbs and spices in his delectable hot-smoked salmon and he likes to joke that it’s “one better than the Colonel”. The results are top-notch and you can try them and other salmon and ginseng products on the site of his fish farm in Deloraine. Another highlight for visitors is a tour of the property’s dense bushland and waterfall-fed aquaponic system in the company of George, Ziggy’s bear-like Australian shepherd. 41southtasmania.com RED FEATHER INN & COOKING SCHOOL DELORAINE From the outside, the charming sandstone carriage house of the Red Feather Inn looks unchanged since colonial times. Inside, the Georgian building is home to luxury suites and a highly regarded cooking school. Whether you want to hone your skills at pasta making, vegan fare or butchery and sausage making, there’s a class to suit. If it all sounds too much like work, book a table at the on-site restaurant instead, which uses estate-grown ingredients and produce from a nearby heritage farm. redfeatherinn.com.au
20 ,000
KILOGRAMS – ESTIMATED PRODUCTION OF AUSTRALIAN TRUFFLES BY 2020
TRUFFLES OF TASMANIA NEEDLES Plenty of islands have legends of buried treasure and Tasmania is no different. The pristine environment of Northern Tassie is a perfect spot to grow truffles, which can fetch thousands of dollars per kilogram. Fortunately, you don’t need that kind of cash to see what makes them special. Truffles of Tasmania’s large oak plantation below the majestic Western Tiers is the ideal place to learn about the prized tuber. It’s open to visitors year-round and from May to September, you can head out with trained dogs and their handlers to hunt for truffles. You might even be able to buy some of that buried treasure to take home. trufflesoftasmania.com.au
TRUFFLES OF TASM A NIA
RED FEAT HER IN N & C O OK IN G SC H O OL
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S P E N D T H E D AY
S O U T HERN WILD DIS TILLERY USES LO CAL PR OD U CE
This bustling coastal city, just over an hour’s drive north-west from Launceston, has a life of its own.
L ANEWAY CAFÉ Tucked away in a nondescript alley, this café bustles with locals and visitors thanks to hearty all-day breakfasts and filling lunches. There are plenty of vegan and gluten-free options here, too, as well as a deli section for takeaways. lane-way.com.au
SOUTHERN WILD DISTILLERY The new Providore Place food pavilion is home to Southern Wild Distillery. Come for a tasting of their Dasher and Fisher gins, named after two of northern Tassie’s wild rivers. For something unusual, try the seasonal saffron gin. southernwilddistillery.com
BASS STRAIT MARITIME CENTRE This compact museum, in the old Harbour Master’s House, explores the region’s maritime history and lets you simulate guiding a steamer into the city’s Mersey River. Once you’ve got your sea legs, head out on a restored ketch for a sail in Bass Strait. bassstraitmc.com.au
MRS JONES Watch the waves roll in from Bass Strait at this fine-diner perched above the Devonport Surf Club. Wallto-wall windows maximise the views and the modern Australian menu features knockout seafood dishes. mrsjonesrbl.com.au MERSEY BLUFF LIGHTHOUSE Overlooking Devonport from a breezy headland, this 1889 candy-striped lighthouse is the city’s most iconic landmark and ideal sunset spot. Just head to the end of Bluff Access Road.
MERSEY BLUFF L IG H T H O USE
102
KILOMETRES FROM LAUNCESTON (ABOUT A 75-MINUTE DRIVE)
THE TASMANIAN ARBORETUM In a tranquil valley, just 10 kilometres south of town, is this beautifully landscaped botanic garden of trees that is crisscrossed with walking trails. Don’t leave the extensive park without gazing into the lake – you may even spot a platypus. tasmanianarboretum.org.au
SLEEPOVER QUALIT Y HOTEL GATEWAY Conveniently located in the heart of the city, this hotel has comfortable rooms and the upper floors boast excellent views over the Mersey River. gatewayinn.com.au
020
N O R T HER N TA S M A NI A
CRADLE M O U N TA I N [ 140 KILOMETRES FROM LAUNCESTON ]
On a stunning hike that pays homage to Tasmania’s majestic Cradle Mountain, Andrew Bain is rewarded with every step.
PEAK PERFORM ANCE > On the boardwalk, I stop and wait for the traffic to pass. Two wombats amble down the track towards me, as unhurried as time itself. Just centimetres from my feet, they turn away, bustling on through the buttongrass clumps at the track’s edge. I walk on but it’s as though the wombats have triggered a change in the day, for at this moment, the most familiar shape in Tasmania finally appears. Dawn mist lifts from the land, rising like a stage curtain to reveal the bowed summit of Cradle Mountain. From where I stand, the mountain’s cliffs look as puzzling as the Rubik’s cube. Rising sheer and severe from above Dove Lake, they look impossible to anyone but rock climbers, yet for hikers like me, there is a way to reach the top of Tasmania’s most famous mountain. This 1545-metre tall mountain is the centrepiece of the Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park in Tasmania’s north-west. It doesn’t yield easily – but it can be climbed
N O R T H ER N TA S M A NI A
in a day. The hike, which requires a national parks pass (parks.tas.gov.au), begins from the same place as the weeklong Overland Track walk, sharing the track until the base of the mountain. I’ve set out from Ronny Creek just before the shores of Dove Lake, located only a two-hour drive from Launceston. ROCKY ROAD At the start, it’s classic Tasmanian terrain – clusters of pandani, the world’s largest heath plant, erupting like fireworks from a yellow sea of buttongrass. But quickly, the trail begins to climb, rising through rainforest and past Crater Falls to reach the shores of Crater Lake. Things get exciting beyond the lake, with a steep, chain-assisted climb rising to Marions Lookout, poised atop a bare ridge, looking onto Dove Lake and directly across to the cliffs of Cradle Mountain. For walkers on the Overland Track, Marions Lookout is the highest point and the toughest climb of the week, but it’s neither of those things on the shorter – but trickier – hike to Cradle Mountain.
1545
METRES – T HE HEIG H T OF CR ADLE M O U N TAIN
21
I continue walking towards the peak, cutting across one of Tasmania’s most exposed mountain plateaus. When the westerly cold fronts blow through from the Southern Ocean, even in the middle of summer, wind, sleet and snow can chip painfully at your face – there are days you can barely stand up here. But the cloud has now cleared and the landscape is as still as a painting. Cradle Mountain looks almost etched against the perfect sky. At the base stands Kitchen Hut, a basic day shelter that seems well named, as hikers huddle over stoves, brewing up soup, tea and coffee – fuel for the walk ahead. It’s here that the climb turns upwards and enters a world of rock and rubble. The slopes below Cradle’s cliffs are littered with boulders, seemingly discarded as excess by the mountain. The idea of a trail through the cliffs almost seems like a practical joke, but I soldier on, hopping from boulder to boulder, stretching my legs at times like rubber bands. VIEW FROM THE TOP Despite appearances, the way through the cliffs suddenly becomes straightforward, if not simple, as the trail funnels into a gully, rising up steep, rocky slopes that require the use of hands as much as feet. The gymnastics end along the mountain’s summit ridge, where rock towers rise like quills. In a few minutes, I’m standing atop the fifthhighest mountain in Tasmania, staring out over almost half of the island state. The familiar view of Cradle Mountain from across Dove Lake might be one of Tasmania’s most famous images but the view from its summit is even better. Here, the landscape stretches away like an eternity of mountains. Barn Bluff rises immediately beside me like a fin and Mount Ossa, Tasmania’s highest peak at 1617 metres, sits nearby amid a clutch of curiously shaped peaks. There are few mountain views in Australia to equal this and few more exciting climbs. It’s a place I’ve stood at more than half-a-dozen times, as though it’s my second mountain home, always pausing to savour the wild wonder of the view and delaying the descent, which is as challenging as the climb. But finally, the inner call comes to leave – a voice filled with anticipation about that first beer and meal back in Cradle Valley after eight hours in the presence of this mighty mountain.
S P E N D T H E D AY
@VDL S TA NLEY
This quaint fishing village on the north-west coast has a rich history and remarkable natural beauty.
THE NUT The town’s famous landmark, The Nut, is the remains of a 12-millionyear-old ancient volcano core. If you’re up for it, take the circular walking track to the 143-metre-high summit, or save your energy and catch the five-minute chairlift to enjoy 360-degree views of Stanley’s colonial streetscapes, Bass Strait and the surrounding beaches. thenutchairlift.com.au THE STANLEY HOTEL The bright, airy bistro within this historic 1830s pub offers expansive views of Bass Strait, a simple and uncomplicated menu featuring fresh, local produce from the land and the sea, as well as cool-climate wines. The deck is the place to dine. stanleytasmania.com.au MOBY DICKS BREAKFAST BAR Set yourself up for the day at Moby Dicks on Church street, Stanley’s main drag. Choose between generous options, including a hearty breakfast burrito, waffles with grilled banana or the Fisherman’s Breakfast with poached eggs, English muffin, smoked salmon and hollandaise sauce. +61 03 6458 1414
T HE N U T
THE ANGEL’S SHARE Quench your thirst at this cosy one-stop beverage shop where you can sample an extensive range of Tassie whisky, gin, wine, beer and cider. Staff are savvy and there’s locally made jewellery, leather goods and perfume to tempt you, too. theangelsshare.net.au HIGHFIELD HOUSE Occupying a commanding hilltop position just out of town, this wellpreserved Regency farmhouse is a time capsule of the early days of European settlement. A self-guided tour reveals the property’s splendour and brings history to life. historic-highfield.com.au
225
KILOMETRES FROM LAUNCESTON (ABOUT A THREE-HOUR DRIVE)
SLEEPOVER @ VDL STANLEY This former 1843 bluestone warehouse-turned-boutique hotel on Stanley’s waterfront has four stylish suites that combine original features with modern, designer finishes. Complimentary bicycles make it easy to explore the town. atvdlstanley.com.au
N O R T H ER N TA S M A NI A
LOCAL LEGEND
Mark Bishop O C C U PAT IO N FIS HER M A N S TA NLE Y L O C AL F O R 4 0 YE ARS
MY FAMILY FIRST CAME to this area from London in the 1960s when I was a toddler. We had the most idyllic life growing up on a farm that also had its own beach, where we caught fish, sailed and spent a lot of time on boats. I got my feet wet and haven’t looked back. When you grow up in a small rural area, you think there’s got to be somewhere more exciting, so you leave and go walkabout. After working on a crayfish boat out of Stanley for a couple of years, I was privileged to get a place to study furniture design at the Australian National University School of Art and Design in Canberra, which was fantastic but a huge contrast to Stanley. I came back to live here in the 1980s when it was cheap for an artist to get established. I started off in my parents’ barn and ended up with a retail outlet on the main street with customers from all over the world. After the stock market crash in 2008, trade never recovered. In 2012, I shut up my shop and worked for a local fishing company for a year. It reminded me of my childhood. Then, after my youngest son, Oliver, left school, he repeated my history, working on fishing boats. He found a job on a good boat and wanted to invest money back into the industry, so together, we bought licenses and a boat and now fish for live wrasse and calamari. We’re “cut lunch fishermen”: we only fish for 120 days a year, day-fishing only.
WHILE YOU’RE IN NORTHERN TASSIE … 1. Visit Hunter Island to see beautiful native shrubs laden with flowers in early summer, where the effects of European impact have been minimal. 2. Explore Three Hummock Island (threehummockisland.com.au) – it’s similar to Freycinet, without the crowds. 3. Stay in Stanley for a few days and unwind.
I worry about our wild marine environment. I’m the chair of the Tasmanian Alliance for Marine Protection, which fights to protect Tasmania’s wild fisheries and pristine coast. We lobby local, state and federal politicians to make sure the salmon industry is sustainable. The impacts of intensive salmon farming are massive but unseen because they exist below the surface of the water. When salmon farmers make a mistake, they go back to the hatchery to get more fish – but who is going to repair the wild fisheries? With my son, I am also building a new, high-tech tourist boat. We want to take people fishing off Stanley and run nature tours to the nearby islands, like Hunter Island and Three Hummock Island. We will tailor the tours to recreational fishers or to tourists who want to catch fish while taking in the natural beauty. This part of the world is worth sharing.
23
ROAD TRIP
THE BARNBOUGLE DRIVE
82K M
The extra wide fairways, steep bunkers and windswept ocean vistas of Barnbougle’s two golf courses may be less than 20 years old but they already have the attention of international golf addicts. Snaking its way along the dramatic north-east coast of Tasmania, its courses – The Dunes and Lost Farm – are ranked among the top 10 in Australia and The Dunes (with its killer eighth hole) sits at number 33 in the world. Wind your way through tempting wineries, an hour north of Launceston up the Tamar Highway, to play 18 holes and stay for local oysters washed down with a Little Rivers Tassie beer in the clubhouse or a visit to Barnbougle Spa (barnbougle.com.au).
N O R T H ER N TA S M A NI A
BARNBOUGLE
LAUNCESTON
25
S P E N D T H E D AY
From white sandy beaches to pink granite mountains, the compelling beauty of Freycinet National Park and its surrounds is unforgettable.
WINEGL AS S BAY LO OKO U T
FREYCINE T ADVEN T URES
GÉOGRAPHE Get your breakfast bearings on the breezy deck at this Coles Bay restaurant. It’s likely you’ll linger over the Hazards view as much as the delicious chorizo, mushroom and caramelised onion crepes. geographecolesbay.com WINEGL ASS BAY LOOKOUT Tasmania's prized coastal view comes at the end of a 45-minute climb through a pass in the Hazards mountains in Freycinet National Park. Here you’ll find a lookout platform set amidst granite boulders, where you can see the shapely white curve of Wineglass Bay. parks.tas.gov.au
167
KILOMETRES FROM LAUNCESTON (ABOUT A TWO-HOUR DRIVE)
CAPE TOURVILLE The wooden boardwalk that skirts below Cape Tourville's lighthouse offers a glimpse into the mouth of Wineglass Bay, as well as a vast Tasman Sea view. You might even see humpbacks or southern right whales passing below. parks.tas.gov.au
FREYCINET ADVENTURES Spend your morning paddling across Coles Bay and along the toes of the Hazards on this three-hour kayak trip. Giant rays bask in the sandy shallows and there's a tea stop on gorgeous Honeymoon Bay. freycinetadventures.com.au FREYCINET MARINE FARM At Great Oyster Bay, which runs along one side of the Freycinet Peninsula, is a working oyster farm with attached farm-gate café: the perfect place for lunch. Along with oysters straight from the leases, the café cooks up scallops, abalone, octopus, mussels and, of course, fish and chips. freycinetmarinefarm.com
SLEEPOVER FREYCINET LODGE Swank new Coastal Pavilions have added a stylish edge to this Freycinet National Park lodge, which sits on a beautiful section of coast at the base of the Hazards. Rooms are dotted through the bush so watch for wildlife: wallabies seem to await each time you step out. freycinetlodge.com.au
N O R T H ER N TA S M A NI A
LOCAL LEGEND
Ange Boxall O C C U PAT IO N SIN G ER-S O N G W R I T ER A N D FES T I VAL PR O D U CER S W A N SE A L O C AL F O R SI X YE ARS
MY HUSBAND MIKE AND I have been coming to this area for 20 years, ever since we started dating at art school in Hobart. We lived and worked in London for 12 years (for five of those years, I wrote and recorded music in Nashville, United States) and then in Melbourne for two. While we were in London, we bought a block of land in Tasmania overlooking Freycinet. Every year, we came to camp for the peace and solitude. It has always been a happy place for us – a place to rejuvenate and dream. When the historic Riversdale property (built in 1825) with its house and mill came on the market in 2013, we dropped everything to buy it. We quit our jobs in Melbourne and moved to Swansea with our daughter, Hattie, who was then aged two. The property is like an English oasis in the middle of our beloved East Coast and brought our two worlds together. The mill had always caught our eye and we imagined its potential, but the house hadn’t been properly lived in for a long time. As we renovated, we discovered a world of fun, family-oriented people around us, many working on farms and vineyards.
WHILE YOU’RE IN NORTHERN TASSIE … 1. Explore the area’s many vineyards, including Freycinet Vineyards (freycinetvineyard.com.au), Milton (miltonvineyard.com.au), Devil’s Corner Cellar Door (devilscorner.com.au), Craigie Knowe (craigieknowe.com.au), Gala Estate (galaestate. com.au) and Spring Vale (springvalewines.com). 2. Lunch on local oysters at Dolphin Sands’ Melshell Oysters (melshelloysters.com.au) or at Freycinet Marine Farm (freycinetmarinefarm.com). 3. Visit Bicheno’s beaches. Call into The Lobster Shack (lobstershacktasmania.com.au) while you’re there for a delicious lobster roll.
I always knew I’d end up here. My soul feels more at rest here than anywhere else on the planet. We keep busy, though – Mike with his design and branding business and I still write music, play the occasional gig and run house concerts at Riversdale. We’re co-owners, too, of The Splendid Gin, which uses local spring water from Spring Vale Vineyard. This year, I’m producing two festivals: a new, boutique event in April called East Coast Harvest Odyssey (ECHO) at Gala Estate and the annual Festival of Voices Coastal in June. Come spring, we will open our newly restored Riversdale Mill for events and weddings. This area is always a bit warmer and more serene than the rest of Tassie, and I love the beaches where gentle, sloping sand overlooks beautiful mountains. My favourite local spot is Dolphin Sands. It doesn’t matter if the weather is grey or misty, it’s still romantic. I take a walk on the beach and I feel whole again.
27
INTO THE BLUE [ 95 KILOMETRES FROM LAUNCESTON ]
Taking on Derby’s network of mountain biking trails taught Mark Daffey why north-east Tasmania has become a hotspot for adventure-seekers.
WHEELS AND THRILLS > Forests scented with hints of myrtle. Peaty mountain steppes affording views of the ocean. Farmhouses scattered among rolling dairy pastures. These are scenes you’d expect to find in Tasmania’s north-east. What you might not expect is to explore them on two wheels. I’m in Derby, a former tin mining town 95 kilometres north-east of Launceston, on one of the area’s exhilarating biking tracks. The 85-kilometre network of trails around the town and in the neighbouring Blue Tier Range is called Blue Derby; it opened in 2015 and has become a go-to mountain biking destination. You can come here to ride for any length of time but my adventure is with Blue Derby Pods Ride (bluederbypodsride.com.au) – a guided experience over three days. Accommodation is in luxe trailside “pods” surrounded by forest and there’s a communal “hub” where guests can relax and be served a decadent three-course meal each night, pre-prepared by Alps & Amici (alpsandamici.com.au) in Launceston.
N O R T H ER N TA S M A NI A
It’s winter and I was initially wary about riding Blue Derby (ridebluederby.com.au) in the cold season. Past experience has taught me that persistent rainfalls are rarely helpful and claggy mud sticks to tyres. Peak season is the daylight savings months but the conditions now, in June, are surprisingly spectacular. Cloudless nights morph into bluebird days that enable us to squeeze in kilometre upon kilometre, without the discomfort of summer’s sweaty heat. “It’s my favourite time of the year to be riding,” says Gareth Sutcliffe, one of our guides. “There’s some moisture in the trails, so it’s really grippy. And the daytime temperatures are perfect.” His assessments prove accurate. On our first morning, we labour up trails that weave between stringybarks to the Black Stump – a shuttle station allowing riders to bypass energy-sapping climbs in favour of extra gravity-fuelled hijinks on fresh legs. Then we tear down trails with names like Flickity Sticks and Sawtooth – intermediate and beginner-level trails that leverage a slope’s natural contours in order to minimise braking or pedalling. I couldn’t have wished for a better start. On our second morning, I find myself needing to work off some of last night’s duck confit and Tassie pinots. To that end, our head guide Lauren “Loz” Stranger nominates Dam Busters – a high-elevation trail skirting the
85
KILOMETRES OF BIKING TRAILS AT BLUE DERBY
29
Cascade Dam. For 10 kilometres, the track rolls and twists through fern-filled gullies, challenging us with uphill traverses before wooing us back with a lengthy downhill finish. There are four of us on this trip, with varying levels of experience and energy. One couple is content to exert themselves each morning and then retire to the pods to relax in the afternoon. My mate and I, on the other hand, eagerly trail behind our guides for as long as daylight lasts. That’s the plus of having more than one guide; it enables groups to easily split in two. The final day is reserved for riding down the Blue Tier. Experienced bikers cite the stunning scenery as one reason for Blue Derby’s status as a premier off-roading destination. Then there’s the ease of connection between the trails and town. But Derby’s greatest asset is arguably what ‘s referred to as “hero dirt”, a loamy soil that drains after rain yet retains moisture over dry summer months, allowing bikers the perfect grip on turns. Where skiers seek virgin powder, mountain bikers crave hero dirt. Blue Tier descends over 18 kilometres, ending outside the Weldborough Hotel (weldborough. com.au). In between is some of the finest trail riding you’ll find, with slippery tree roots and boulder fields giving way to enchanting rainforest scenery. At this point, the trail begins its descent with increased urgency, dipping and sweeping around perfectly angled bermed turns. It’s as much fun as you can have on two wheels. And it leaves me hankering for more.
30
N O R T HER N TA S M A NI A
LOCAL LEGEND
Belinda Cotton O C C U PAT IO N AR T S OFFICER L A U N CES T O N L O C AL F O R SI X YE ARS
LAUNCESTON IS A PLACE where creative people thrive. There’s a feisty, independent, can-do spirit that’s been carried through this city’s history. It’s a place of firsts: it had the first municipally-owned power station, the fi rst operation with anaesthetic in the southern hemisphere by Dr Russ Pugh in 1847 and it was the first Australian city with streets lit by hydro-electricity. I work for the City of Launceston council on their cultural strategy and I’m also a “connector” for things like festivals and events – kind of like a creative dating service. Launceston’s community is really active in the arts and the smaller nature of the city means that people can connect more easily. MONA Foma (aka MOFO) was held here for the first time this year, in January. MOFO is the perfect festival for this city because it invests in young performers and emerging artists, while also bringing in top performers like Neneh Cherry. There’s a transfer of energy between people starting out and those doing things out in the world.
WHILE YOU’RE IN NORTHERN TASSIE … 1. Stop by the Tebrakunna Visitors Centre at Musselroe Wind Farm (woolnorthwind. com.au) to learn about Tasmanian Aboriginal culture, their connection to country and continuing cultural practice. 2. Create your own sparkling wines trail: try Clover Hill (cloverhillwines.com.au), Jansz (jansz.com.au) and Delamere Vineyards (delamerevineyards.com.au). 3. Roam the Harvest Market (harvestmarket. org.au) for local produce.
I came here in 2013 from Canberra, where I worked at the National Gallery of Australia. My passion has always been visual arts but Launceston has allowed me to connect with art forms across the board, from music and comedy to ceramics, filmmaking and interactive media. I live centrally and can walk to work in 15 minutes – the whole city is walkable. It’s a very prett y place with beautiful parks; there isn’t the overbearing height of buildings to crowd you out. The city wraps around the Tamar and Esk rivers and that special spot: Cataract Gorge. What constantly bowls me over is just how spoiled we are – our quality of life – and how lucky we are with our fresh produce. There’s a beautiful dance of food and wine that all of us who live here want to preserve for the future. People want to live here because of the city’s proximity to nature. I love that the country and city are closer together than in most other cities, there’s a more porous barrier between the two. It gives me a sense of how fragile everything is – for me, that’s a personal driver to treat the place with respect, wonder and care.
CALENDAR
Put it in the diary Northern Tasmania’s annual line-up of events has something for everyone ‒ whether you want to rock out with local bands, sip fine wine or enjoy heart-pumping action in the wilderness.
M AY
TASMANIAN BREATH OF FRESH AIR (BOFA) FILM FESTIVAL Village Cinemas Launceston > This international film festival in mid May screens stories that challenge our thinking, examine the way we live and seek to bring about change. The festival’s upbeat party vibe keeps things fun. breath-of-fresh-air.com.au
SE P
JAN
MONA FOMA Various locations, Launceston > After a decade in Hobart, MOFO – MONA’s eccentric summer festival – moved to Launceston in 2018. The festival is known for exciting and sometimes uncomfortable performances, which curator Brian Ritchie calls “kick-ass musical anarchy and artistic abandon”. For 2020, expect a line-up featuring local Tasmanian and international musicians, plus plenty of bizarre surprises on the streets. mofo.net.au
FE B
FESTIVALE Launceston City Park > Tens of thousands of people flock to this three-day festival of food, wine and music. It’s one of the few times when Tasmania’s premium food, beer and wine producers gather together in one place. Come with friends to take advantage of the many tasting plates (that way you can sample and savour a bit of everything!), then kick back on the grass with a cider to take in a comedy show or top-shelf musical performance. festivale.com.au
M AR
CRADLE MOUNTAIN FILM FESTIVAL Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park > This isn’t just a place for those who want to brave the area’s incredible (and incredibly steep) trails and adventure activities. It’s a place where you can live vicariously through a film festival screen, watching epic local and international adventure films – even while relaxing in a yurt cinema in the forest. There’s also a host of other activities on offer, including yoga, film workshops, cold-water therapy and canyoning. cradlemountainfilmfest.com SHIMANO ENDURO TASMANIA Derby > At Enduro, in late March to early April, the world’s best mountain bikers race across the Blue Derby Mountain Bike trails through fern forests, over granite slabs and more. Cheer on the racers, take in the stunning views and stick around for the afterparty in the village. emsaustralia.net.au; enduroworldseries.com
JUNCTION ARTS FESTIVAL Various locations, Launceston > For nine years, the Junction Arts Festival has celebrated local and international musical, performing and visual arts talent. Events, held across the city in early September, run the gamut from roller-disco nights to feasts cooked over open fire. You’ll also groove along to alt-country and South-Sudanese hip hop performers – and that’s just for starters. junctionartsfestival.com.au
NOV
EFFERVESCENCE TASMANIA Relbia, Launceston, Tamar Valley > It’s no wonder that the small region becoming known as “Little Champagne” hosts a festival that is dedicated to bubbles. The midNovember event includes sparkling masterclasses, degustation lunches, tasting experiences and more. effervescencetasmania.com FARMGATE FESTIVAL Various locations, Tamar Valley > There is nowhere that epitomises farm-to-plate dining quite like the Farmgate Festival. In late November, head to the Tamar Valley to tour pig farms and apple orchards, collect freshly-laid eggs and sample honey straight from the hive. farmgatefestival.net.au
Dates may be subject to change. Check event websites for updates.
W H A T ’ S I N S T O R E ...
No matter the weather forecast, there’s always something exciting happening in Northern Tasmania. Here are the places to go and fun things to do year-round.
S TILLWATER RES TAUR A N T
H ARVES T M ARKE T
SUMMER
650K
NUMBER OF LAVENDER PLANTS AT BRIDESTOWE LAVENDER ESTATE
AUTUMN
BRIDES TO WE L AVENDER ES TATE
On average, daytime temperatures hover around the mid 20s, with long twilights and cooler nights. It’s the perfect time of year to explore Launceston’s Cataract Gorge (launcestoncataractgorge.com.au), where you can walk the trails and swim in the refreshing outdoor pool. Picturesque Bridestowe Lavender Estate (bridestowelavender.com.au) is in full and spectacular mauve bloom right now while the local bounty of berries, especially the raspberries, is at its ripe and juicy sweetest. Head to Hillwood Berry Farm (hillwoodberryfarm.com.au) to pick them fresh. Each January, the MONA Foma (mofo.net.au) festival infuses the city with culture, pushing boundaries in art and music.
AVERAGE TEMPERATURE RANGE
SUMMER 10-25ºC
AUTUMN 5-22ºC
The air is crisp now, so you will definitely need a coat. Spend Saturday mornings at the bustling Harvest Market (harvestmarket.org. au) in Launceston, sampling the cornucopia of autumnal produce, then walk it off at Hollybank Forest, one of Tasmania’s 60 Great Short Walks, just 20 minutes’ drive away. Take a wander around the boutiques and vintage stores in town – George Street is the hub for all things fashion and homewares. In May, Agfest (agfest.com.au) brings together 700 exhibitors showcasing the best of Tasmanian farm life. Warm up afterwards with a dinner at Stillwater restaurant (stillwater. com.au), where top-notch chefs create modern culinary wonders using the island’s best produce. WINTER 2-14ºC
SPRING 5-21ºC
N O R T H ER N TA S M A NI A
33
BRIDP ORT
WINTER
JU N C TIO N ARTS FES TIVAL
1572
SPRING
METRES – THE HIGHEST POINT OF BEN LOMOND
BREAD + B U T TER
Winter in Tasmania is nothing to fear – instead celebrate it in all its chilly glory. Bring warm layers; snow is common at Cradle Mountain and in the ski fields of nearby Ben Lomond. In early August, venture to Bridport for the Tassie Scallop Fiesta (fb.me/tassiescallopfiesta). This is also the perfect time of year to sip on pinot noir by the fire or catch an AFL game. Launceston is the second home of the Hawthorn Hawks and fans transform the town into a riot of brown and gold for matches. For an indulgent carbfest, head to Bread + Butter (breadandbuttertasmania. com.au) and fill up on moreish pastries and freshly baked sourdough or hit Kingsway Bar (fb.me/ thekingsway) where you can work your way through the extensive Tasmanian whisky and gin list.
As winter fades away, the weather changes but it’s still a good idea to carry a raincoat. Warm layers are still essential, too, as temperatures can drop quite low, especially at night. In spring, the plants and grapevines around Launceston burst into life and it’s the perfect time to explore the world-class vineyards of the Tamar Valley. It’s a time of year that also brings abundant produce, so seek out a little culinary guidance at the Red Feather Cooking School (redfeatherinn.com.au/cookingschool) or settle in for lunch at the historic Hazelbrae House (hazelbrae. com.au), located on a working hazelnut farm. In September, locals love the Junction Arts Festival (junctionartsfestival.com.au), an intimate celebration of art in unusual places around Launceston.
GETTING AROUND While Tasmania is Australia’s smallest state, much of the beautiful scenery and attractions are spread out across the countryside. A hire car is the most seamless way to do your touring. Pick one up at Launceston airport once you land.
START YOUR TASMANIAN ADVENTURE AT
LAUNCESTON AIRPORT With 59 direct Jetstar flights a week from Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane to Launceston Airport you are never far away from discovering all Tasmania has to offer...
