2
0
— teko graduate show 2014 — January 31st at Copenhagen City Hall
1
4
running order —1— Camilla Aleksandra —2— Lone Høfdinghoff Mathiasen —3— Lea Hedegaard —4— Heidi Jæger Jespersen —5— Sandra Wrochniak —6— Lise Weisbjerg Dahl —7— Henriette Moe Winsnes —8— Liselotte Pedersen —9— Lise Hansen — 10 — Amalie Fredslund Søjberg — 11 — Kim Felecia — 12 — Camilla Damkjær
—1—
—2—
—4—
—5—
—8—
—9—
—10 —
—3—
—6—
— 11 —
—7—
— 12 —
INTRO — TEKO AW14 Connecting past and present, connecting others, challenging the future, everything is about getting connected. In our present digital social hierarchy, the most powerful people are the ones that experience, interact and move people, they are our modern day influencers. We believe the future lies in the hands of those who know the importance of networking and engaging actively in society. This year’s newly graduated designers surely know how to interweave their technical skills with fashion. They all display a sense of proud individualism on a high aesthetic, artisan and craftsmanship level. Their education has provided them with a special tool-set of technical and commercial understanding, equipping them with a sense professionalism that now shapes the foundation to their dynamic futures. With a fashion degree in hand they shall step forward and engage with our industry with confident composure. We are convinced that the design industry more than ever, needs creative designers who understand the technical and commercial language of fashion design. Therefore, I would like to encourage design companies to embrace these
graduates. We wish for you to be that first unique connection they make in the fashion industry. We encourage you to allow room for their freedom of thoughts, conceptual ideas and fresh compelling energy. To conclude, I hope the fashion industry will find a place for these exceptional talents. I hope they will be met by open minds and shall be valued for their innovative thoughts, ideas and dynamic approach. Finally, allow them to voice their profound visions, diversifying the exciting future development of Danish fashion design in all its wonderful facets. This final show is the culmination of months of hard work by our graduates. Personally, I am thoroughly aware of the effort and the amount of time they have put into their collections. In addition to this, I have aimed to inspire them to maintain their focus in order to create a marvellous and unparalleled final show this winter. We look forward to showing you this season’s curated selection of fresh designers, with individually challenging collections, all connected comfortably in a fabulously flowing presentation.
Ingrid Søe — Director of Education — Design
—1—
We are led into an encounter between minimalism and nostalgia, comfort and sporty functionality. The collection is dissected into two parts, where white and transparent fabrics refer to elements of minimalism and utility, whereas checkered details embody familiar reassurance and nostalgia. We embrace the memories of our past. The collection, features sharp triangular lines, shaping the stern silhouette. Tailoring and craftsmanship are important, with a minimum of visible stitches used to construct each garment.
—2—
Imagine a cornucopia filled with print, humor, colors, sequins and logos all combined in one sportswear collection. Feminine, yet powerful, the garments feature hand painted brush strokes combined with graphic street art and the visibility of cutlines between the different prints enhanced by pipings. Fabrics are decorated with sequins, highlighting the directional shapes, whereas subtle embroidery underlines structure within the silhouette. This ‘Werewolf’ collection embraces 1980s inspired sportswear, noting a wonderful happy-go-lucky feeling, much needed after darker moody times. Join in and let the glittery carefree attitude refresh your mind.
—3—
Taking inspiration from the eclectic universe of the socially critical Danish punk poet, Michael Strunge and the contrasting mental states in which he worked, this unisex collection was crafted. Aptly named “The Nightmachine”, the garments are subjected to experiments with deconstruction, draping and the manipulation of surfaces. The differences in length, structures and the usage of contrasting colours refer to Strunge’s idolising relationship with David Bowie, which further inspired him to further explore androgenity. The collection has the ability to transform its expression, depending on the body it envelopes, be it a man or woman.
—4—
The concept of ‘Beyond the Pale’ is based on the contradiction between the concept of the mystified Geisha and a sensitive video exhibition ‘Unspoken Stories’ by Katja Bjørn. As they sway forward carefully, one can observe the silhouettes embracing their sensual femininity, without being overly revealing. Functional yet hidden details are inspired by the synthesis of powerful emancipation and feminine vulnerability, irreverently found in the duality of society. The collection is constructed with sleek silks, lush wools, floaty knits and stern jersey, thusly combining rigor with organic movement.
—5—
Composed, stern and fitted, this collection is centered around the premises of ‘less is more’, by carefully contrasting inserts and colours. Special colourblocking elements are visible on collars, closures and patterns, defining the modernity of the garments, aimed at independent women, ready to tackle the world. The mature and at times rather edgy look is shaped through simple silhouettes, combined with new details and unusual inner seams. Next to this, hidden closures and minimally considered detailing emphasize the simplicity and the refinement of the garments, thusly alluding to neatness and sophistication. Traditional materials such as wool, silk and cotton and the delicate interplay between these fabrics, contribute to an overall sophisticated feel.
—6—
A pensive collection, inspired by an isolated fishermen culture, on an island close to the Western shores, AW14 stands for a ‘Never Ending Story’. It is a tribute to an authentic, masculine and primitive way of living. Forlorn and forgotten, we return to the essence of craftsmanship. Handmade prints, specially designed textures and an unorthodox usage of plain fabrics, further make up this collection. The narrative is supported through a strong focus on details and material processing. Topically functional, the garments embrace visual identities by underlining simple yet meaningful expressions.
—7—
Composure and reflection. The collection ‘Silent Life’ pushes the boundaries of how garments are constructed by using this initial crafting process as a condition for the eventual design phase. Loosely based on Charlotte Posenenske’s artwork ‘Square Tubes’, the garments aim to visualize both the objective and the subjective impression of what constitutes art. The collection captures what you see, as well as it is a subjective interpretation of sentiments, profound echoes, silence, emptiness, longing and everlasting hope. The fabric selection merges soft leather and lush wools in experimental ways to develop a sheer, shiny feel, alluding to a tender yet strong silhouette.
—8—
Our skin is our diary and it bares the marks of the battles we have fought. The garments aim to translate the inside to our external shells. The collection is inspired by our internal physiology, industrious and buzzing on the inside, yet so calm and shapeless in its skinform on the surface. The silhouettes follow a unique personal idiom through the interaction between scientific physiological explanations of the body and our own sensory experience. Surfaces thus seem to display our body’s inner form, structure and texture to the outside as if forged directly from our inner core, showing even the most sincere of sentiments.
—9—
A specialist return to the ancient techniques of paper folding, both technical and colorful, can be observed in this line. Key to the garments is the process of developing something big into smallness and exploring the contrast between flat textures and 3-D. In the collection, a clear contrast is created between more rigid forms and loosely draped styles. Each item in the collection is multifunctional and can be changed in to many different shapes, which is also supported by the variations in the fabric selection. Special details include functional press buttons, that enable wearers to created folds and shapes freely. Both minimalistic and creative, the garments are designed for modern confident women.
— 10 —
Classic meets Punk. This irreverent collection is inspired by the intricate clash of classic tailoring and the outspoken punk movement of the 1970’s and early 80’s. The garments are loosely crafted, keeping in mind the laissez-fair attitude of forlorn freedom and sartorial rebellion. Movement is given new meaning, by using layering and deconstruction as means of breaking unwritten rules. These techniques are here applied to classic menswear garments, carefully thrifted in vintage stores and bohemian flea markets.
— 11 —
A collection that strives to investigate a merger of silhouette and textile. Knits and fur are contextualized and developed into unique handcrafted fabrics, as another dimension of designing by forming the textile. This meticulous process, allows for a profound investigation of creative tangents without forgetting the final product. Imagination and reality are refitted into a cohesive array of garments, loosely inspired by designers such as Paco Rabanne, Pierre Cardin, André Courrèges, Jean Voight and Mary Quant. Modern, yet classic, the collection boasts a sporty and edgy feel, mainly apparent in the special fabric treatments and the black metallic details.
— 12 —
A complex vision with contrasting elements and a rather provocative attitude. The gar-ments shape an expressive visualisation of reflections over volatile composed identities. For a backdrop; imagine a controlled clash of vulgar excessive club kids from the late 90s, the 60s Roberta Breitmore project and a dash of surreal imagery by photographer Claude Cahun from the 20s. Garments are intentionally wrapped in black tape, alluding to a voluminous and asymmetric silhouette that appears as a blend of crackled patent, quilt, chunky black plastic zippers and neon green terrycloth.
thanks to:
credits: Creative Direction + Production — Ulla Skjødt Graphic Design — JE;SU /jesu.dk Show Director + International Press — Marlo Saalmink PR + Front of House — Sebastian Atkins at Holm & Bertung Make-up — M.A.C. Hair — StyleBox by Matas Models — SCOOP MODELS Choreography — Katrine Engberg Music — Djuna Barnes
TEKO is Scandinavia’s largest design and management college within the fashion and lifestyle industry. www.viauc.dk/teko