14 minute read
SHPITZ SUITS
In Defense of the Summer Suit
BY: ANDREW LOCK
The first thing a clothier must do when meeting with a client is have a conversation about what the client needs. This way, their precious hour together can stay focused, without wasting time poring over swatches that might be irrelevant and needlessly confusing. The greater the number of fabric books taken out of the closet and laid on the table for perusal, the greater the chance that the client will have difficulty finding something he likes. Being overwhelmed with too many choices is never a good thing. One of the first questions for the clothier to ask is whether the client would like a seasonal fabric or something to wear year-round. Of course, the seasonality of a fabric is not just a matter of the fabric’s weight — there are heavy summer fabrics and lightweight winter fabrics. Color plays a part in determining seasonality, but there is nothing inherently wrong with wearing light grey or periwinkle blue in the winter or dark somber shades in the summer. While it is not recommended to wear a bright fabric to an evening wedding or to shul on Friday night, that same fabric can look fantastic on a sunny winter day. Be careful though — some fabrics are such a light shade that they may never look winter-appropriate. However, I am a firm believer in the old adage “you have to know
the rules to break the rules.” If you understand what works and what is expected in different situations, you can bend those rules to create your own personal style. I would be remiss not to mention that it is possible to stretch that concept too far, which is where the advice of a professional clothier can help you develop your unique look while still adhering to common fashion sense.
More often than not, clients request suits that can be worn year round. This seems to make sense because each custom suit is an investment and who wants to have a large part of his wardrobe hanging unused for several months of the year?
It actually may be worth approaching this question from a different perspective. Do you want to wear a year-round suit when it is frigid outside and you have to walk to shul in sub-freezing temperatures? Would it not be preferable to wear a handsome, durable flannel that drapes better than anything else you own? Think about the humid summer months. Wouldn’t you choose to wear a fabric that is light as air and doesn’t stick to your legs and make you sweat?
Additionally, it’s not as though a summer suit must be worn for strictly four to six months before being locked away. One may not want to wear a tropical suit in the dead of winter, but there are plenty of mild days on which a lightweight suit would work just fine. Fabric weight is measured in ounces per square yard or grams per square meter. Lightweight suiting fabrics generally range from 190240g and midweight fabrics range from 250-300g. Anything over 300g is fairly heavy and best reserved for colder seasons. Contrary to popular assumption, the “super number” has nothing to do with weight; it simply indicates the diameter of the fibers used.
For example, the term Super 150s means that the fibers are 16.25 microns in diameter while the fibers used for super 200s fabric are 13.75 microns around. A fabric with a higher super number will generally have a softer, more luxurious feel, at the expense of durability and drape. To make things more complex, the
weight of the fabric doesn’t give you all the information you need to tell you whether it will wear warm or cool.
A 240g twill with some cashmere in the blend and a brushed flannel finish can wear warmer than a 280g Fresco wool with a high-twist open weave that allows air to travel right through.
This is only one example of why it is so important to work with a clothier who understands more than just how to note an order form and take measurements. A good clothier listens to his or her clients’ needs and guides them to build wardrobes that are current and versatile. Sometimes it’s as simple as a gentle suggestion that the fabric in question is “nice but not necessarily what you need” or showing a new pattern or style that the client may not have considered in the past. (Such as pinstripes. I repeat: Pinstripes!)
Summer fabrics can be woven from a variety of raw materials such as linen, mohair, cotton, silk, wool, and an infinite number of blends of any of them. Each has its inherent strengths, weaknesses, and idiosyncrasies. Like a whisky that is blended to highlight the best aspects of its ingredients, blended fabrics intend to let the wearer enjoy the best features of each part of its composition.
Wool is breathable and widely available in the most colors and patterns. It is hygroscopic, which means that it can wick moisture away from the body. In fact, tests show that wool is less likely than other fabrics to carry an odor, and it can be freshened by just hanging and letting it air for a bit. Wool also tends to keep its shape, so it works well if one enjoys a crisp look.
Wool can be woven with an open weave that allows air to pass through and keep the wearer cool on hot, humid days. Minnis Fresco, woven in Huddersfield, England, is a perfect example. It is heavier than what one would expect from a typical summer cloth but the high twist of the fibers allows it to retain its shape remarkably well. It is one of the most durable suiting fabrics made and is a very smart choice for a summer wardrobe. The weight and drape make it an excellent candidate to be tailored with little or no lining, allowing even more air to pass through. Fresco is also popular as a travel suit since it can be treated less-than-gently, with few ill effects.
Lightweight wools such as Vitale Barberis 120s and Loro Piana Tropical Wish 170s are also excellent choices for summer suiting. A plain weave, also referred to as a tropical weave, has less fiber per inch than a typical twill, causing it to weigh less. Suits created from these fabrics can be tailored with a lightweight canvas interlining that will provide structure while still allowing a luxurious light-as-air feel.
While jackets tend to fare well in extra lightweight fabrics, it can be harder for trousers to maintain their structure and there is a bit of trade-off compared to a typical four-season twill. Linen is often the first fabric that comes to mind when thinking of summer suits. It certainly stays cool and breathes exceptionally well, but there is the very subjective question of whether the rumply nature of linen is a feature or a flaw. It does not belong at a formal wedding, but if some care is taken when it is worn, linen can stay somewhat crisp throughout the day. Heavier linen is less prone to rumpling but is less comfortable than lighter alternatives.
Hemp is functionally the same as linen, even though they come from completely different sources. Interestingly, the fibers can only be distinguished by the direction in which they twist when wetted: hemp turns counterclockwise, linen clockwise.
Mohair, made of the hair of the angora goat, is a fabric one might not associate with summer. It is rarely used on its own due to its rough feel and high cost. However, it truly shines when blended with wool, and not only because of the luster mohair gives the fabric. This luster is popular for tuxedos, but it can also create an eye-catching effect in a true blue or navy summer suit. Mohair is exceptionally durable and even just a bit of it blended into a fabric gives the fabric increased resilience and resistance to creasing. Most wool-mohair blends contain between two and fifteen percent mohair; more than that can make the fabric a bit too rough. Silk, which can add some stiffness and a bit of sheen, is also usually used as a small component of a blended fabric.
Cotton is another popular summer fabric, but like all the others, it has benefits as well as drawbacks. It tends to have good body, which allows it to be worn unlined, but it is quick to crease and is more likely than wool or linen to hold moisture. Because of this, cotton has to be dry cleaned more often than wool to keep it fresh. One nice feature of cotton is that it will fade a bit as it ages. This gives it a casual “lived in” look that pairs well with a knitted tie. Cotton is also used to make seersucker, one of the bestknown summer fabrics. Loro Piana makes a seersucker using a wool and silk blend that is an intriguing option for someone who wants a suit even lighter than cotton seersucker. All in all, when it comes to making a summer suit or sportcoat, there are plenty of options to accommodate every taste, fit, and style. While it may seem easier to limit oneself to classic year-round suits, doing so would be to ignore a world of summer (and winter) fabrics that would revitalize your wardrobe. It is certainly worthwhile to explore your options and make a knowledgeable decision when buying your next suit.
Andrew Lock is the proprietor of Andrew Lock Custom Menswear at 403 Central Avenue in Cedarhurst. His shop offers all manners of custom clothing as well as fine shoes, accessories, wardrobe consulting services, and the best cappuccino in town. Call 516.619.6264 or visit NYbespoke.com to schedule a fitting.
EATS, MEATS BY: SHLOMO ASSAYAG & THE Q
With warmer weather quickly approaching, one thing we can count on is getting back to the barbecue and enjoying time outdoors. I love grilling — it’s a pastime many of us enjoy and a great way to safely bring people together outdoors.
Although the art of grilling takes on many shapes and forms, everyone has their favorite item to throw on the grill and mine is steak. There's nothing like a delicious hunk of meat grilled perfectly and paired with your favorite sides to truly mark the start of the summer season (no pun intended). So which steaks are great for the BBQ and how do you achieve that perfect steak? It all starts with your choice of cut. My top picks are beef rib steaks, rib eye steaks, Tomahawk steaks, and cowboy steaks. Grilling can be a daunting task for some — despite what most people think, you are not simply born with the ability to grill perfectly. Having the right cuts, ingredients, and tips can make all the difference in the success of your grilling efforts.
Kitchen prep To start, the steaks should be at room temperature, not straight out of the fridge, before they hit the grill. Steak should be cooked briefly at a high temperature and if they're cold, it’ll take much longer to cook and your results will not be optimal. With a great cut of meat, all you need is salt and pepper, but if you want to get fancy, you can use the Kosher King's Steak Rub for a guaranteed trip to flavor town.
Pat your steaks dry before applying any spices or rubs to achieve the perfect sear. You can also spread a little oil to help your spices or rub adhere to the steak.
Make sure your grill is clean You should always keep your grill clean, and this includes the space underneath the grill rack and grates. Simple maintenance will prevent flare ups, which can really damage your cooking process and your grill. If a fire does pop up, simply close the lid to deprive the fire of oxygen and that should take care of it. If you don't have a lid, you can spray a small amount of water into the fire. Keep in mind that fires will happen if your grill isn't clean. If a fire proves difficult to extinguish, sprinkle salt or baking soda directly over the grates. onion. Make sure the grill is on and at least warm before you begin this process to draw out the natural cleaning agents found inside the layers of an onion. Slice the onion in half and skewer it with a long grilling fork, which will allow you the freedom of scraping the racks with a good grip on the otherwise slippery onion. You'll notice excess debris peeling right off as you run the freshly cut onion across the grill. The added flavor to the grill itself is a great bonus when using this method to clean. Not only does the onion clean well and add flavor, but it will also coat the racks with its oils to prevent future build up.
Grill Time Before you begin grilling, heat the grill to the desired temperature and grease the grates with some oil to make sure things don't stick. This is especially important when grilling chicken but is helpful for anything you choose to grill. Next, make sure the grill is HOT! Any experienced griller knows every grill has its own quirks and temperature variations. The perfect cooking temperature can vary based on the size and style of your grill so you can play around as you go. For a brand new grill, it’s always a good idea to test it out with chicken first. There's a lot more leeway and a longer cooking time
for chicken so it gives you a chance to get comfortable.
Keep cooking temperatures in mind when planning what will go on the grill first. Chicken cooks more slowly over low heat, so it has time to cook through thoroughly. If you’re grilling steaks as well, cook those at the end over high heat. Another commonly made mistake is making skewers with a combination of meat and vegetables. These items cook at different temperatures and the vegetables will often end up burnt or undercooked, depending on the protein they were cooked with. When cooked separately, each ingredient can be cooked for just the right length of time, resulting in perfectly cooked vegetables and meat.
Once grilling the steaks, make sure to only flip them once. A critical error many make is to keep flipping steaks over and over, which will surely affect your final result and not in a good way. Don't poke or stab the steak to check if it’s ready — this causes the juices in the center to escape and can result in rubbery results. When you do make the flip, especially with large pieces of meat, the easiest way is to use tongs. A good set of long grilling tongs are a must have to keep your hands away from the fire and give you lots of control. If you're not sure if the steak is ready to flip, use the tongs to gently lift a corner and take a peek at the cooking progress.
Meat continues to cook after it comes off the grill (through carryover heat), so it’s best to remove it just before it reaches your desired result so it doesn’t overcook. Let meat rest for 5 minutes before slicing it so the juices have a chance to settle back into the meat, then slice against the grain.
indulge Now that you have a good steak going, you’ll likely want to throw more things on the grill and I’m here to tell you to get creative! The grill can be used for so much more than meat and chicken. In my experience, you can pretty much throw anything on. Some of my unexpected favorites are watermelon, pineapple, and avocado. I also love grilled salami and......wait for it......kishka!!! Cut the kishka into thick slices and watch a delicious outer crust form for the ultimate crunch. Lastly, don’t forget to crack open a cold beer or a nice bottle of wine, whichever you prefer.
Whatever you throw on your grill, these simple tips will help you make the most of your grilling as you enjoy time outdoors with friends and family. Enjoy the season, stay safe, and happy grilling!
M
The Kosher King's Steak Rub: • ¼ cup coarse salt • 1 tablespoon coarse cracked black pepper • 1 tablespoon onion powder • 1 tablespoon paprika • 1 ½ teaspoons granulated garlic • 1 ½ teaspoons dried rosemary, lightly crushed • 1 ½ teaspoons crushed red chili flakes • 1 ½ teaspoons dried thyme
-The Kosher King
Shlomo Assayag Is a contributor for Mochers Magazine, follow him on Instagram and Facebook @thekosherking
