The Lausanner - The cinephile city by LAUSANNE TOURISME

ENGLISH

WINTER 2023/SPRING 2024 - N° 12

NICE TO MEE T YOU

THE CINEPHILE CITY Interview with filmmakers Véronique Reymond (left) and Stéphanie Chuat, here at the Cinémathèque Page 42

CINEMA IN THE SPOTLIGHT

Home to the Cinémathèque suisse and numerous festivals, the capital of Vaud has created a cinematic hub. Page 40

LOCAVORE FOOD, STARRING IN OUR PLATES Page 6

FRANCK PELUX, AWESTRUCK BY THE PANORAMIC VIEW Page 30

Carlos Leal, from Lake Geneva to the big screen

FOCUS ON PROTECTED HERITAGE BUILDINGS Page 52

Ferdinand Hodler, Le lac Léman vu de Chexbres, 1904, oil on canvas, 70,5 × 108,3 cm. Musée cantonal des Beaux-Arts de Lausanne. Acquisition, 1904

MUSÉE CANTONAL DES BEAUX-ARTS LAUSANNE The Collection

mcba.ch

Free admission

NICE TO MEE T YOU EDITORIAL

When art met the city

In this issue, we tell you a wonderful story. Just like at the cinema. It is a story about the art of filmmaking in Lausanne, home to the Cinémathèque suisse since 1948. It is the story told every year in March, through the success of the Rencontres 7e Art festival. It is also the story between the people of Lausanne and the Capitole, the country’s largest cinema, which for decades was embodied by the woman who ran it, Lucienne Schnegg, the heroine of the film La petite dame du Capitole. After three years of refurbishments, the institution, now almost a century old, has expanded and is starring in a new role. Now home to the Cinémathèque suisse, in February the Capitole will be a cinematic hub for all of Switzerland (page 40).

Despite its size, the Vaud capital has always dreamt big, following the example of its fashion designers. They prove that, from here, all roads can lead to success (page 12). In our pages, Mandrax remembers his emerging years as a DJ at La Dolce Vita, before his music went on to make audiences dance worldwide (page 34). Opened in 1964, Théâtre de Vidy was originally built as a temporary structure. Since then, it has taken centre stage as a space for artistic creation and achieved international renown (page 21).

The script of this 12th issue of Lausanner makes a few more detours through the art of gourmet cuisine, with French chef Franck Pelux and his wife Sarah Benahmed, who run the double Michelin-starred restaurant La Table du Lausanne Palace (page 30), and through the art of comics, with the major immersive Tintin exhibition at Palais de Beaulieu (page 28). Without giving it all away here, we now take you to experience the magic of the city, explore its hidden treasures, charming shops, expert artisans and rich history. Action!

ARCHIVES In 1962, the crowd left the Capitole on Avenue du Théâtre after a showing of the film The Longest Day, starring John Wayne, Henry Fonda, Robert Mitchum, Mel Ferrer and Sean Connery. Clint Eastwood made his debut as an extra.

The Capitole, the largest cinema in Switzerland, opened back in the days of silent films, on 29 December 1928. Under the management of the Cinémathèque suisse since 2010, the historical landmark is preparing to reopen after three years of renovation works (see p. 40). The illuminated sign, created in 1959, still shines bright on the front of the building.

IMPRESSUM

The Lausanner, a tourist welcome and information magazine about life in Lausanne

Image search: Sabrine Elias, Large Network

Cover: Véronique Reymond and Stéphanie Chuat photographed by Nicolas Schopfer

Editorial: Lausanne Tourisme

Direction: Steeve Pasche and Sermena Sulejmani

Advertising: Michel Chevallaz +41 79 213 53 15

Editorial production: Large Network

Printing: Gremper SA, Basel Available in French and English

Graphics: Saentys

Writing, administration and announcements: Lausanne Tourisme Av. de Rhodanie 2 Case postale 975 CH-1001 Lausanne +41 21 613 73 73 www.lausanne-tourisme.ch e-mail: direction@lausanne-tourisme.ch

Editorial Manager: Trinidad Barleycorn, Large Network

Production: Nathalie Roux and Marie-Laure Beausoleil

Writing: Trinidad Barleycorn, Carole Berset, Laurie Chappatte, Julien Crevoisier, Erik Freudenreich, Laurent Grabet, Patricia Lunghi, Michel Masserey

Photography: Collection Cinémathèque suisse (p. 2) – François Wavre/Lundi13 (p. 5, 24, 34) – Jean-Christophe Bott/Keystone (p. 6, 9, 10) – DR (p. 7, 10, 12, 13, 14, 48, 54) – Odile Meylan/24heures (p. 8) – LausanneTourisme (p. 13) – Trinidad Barleycorn (p. 15, 23) – Aurélien Barrelet/Large Network p. (16-17) – Sébastien Monachon/photo@bsc8.ch (p. 18-19) – Matthieu Gafsou (p. 21) – Dorian Rollin (p. 22) – Emilien Itim (p. 26) – Anoush Abrar (p. 26) – Gabriel Monnet/Keystone (p. 27) – Laura Gilli (p. 27) – Hergé/Tintinimaginatio 2023/ Culturespaces (p. 28) – Association Bains des Rives (p. 29) – Alicia Dubuis (p. 29) – Cécile Gretsch/Saentys (p. 30, 52) – Marc Schibler (p. 36) – Eddie Taz (p. 38) – Nicolas Schopfer (p. 43) – Nicolas Prahin (p. 45) – “La petite dame du Capitole”, a film by Jacqueline Veuve (p. 46) – Nicole Weber (p. 47) – Fanny Schertzer (p. 52) – www.dpicard.ch/LT (p. 53) – Liliane Übersax/LV (p. 54) © Photos Lausanne Tourisme – Swizterland Tourism/Lorenz Richard (p. 7, 61, 73) – Blake Production (p. 11) – Jordi Ruiz Cirera (p. 32-33) – LT/Laurent Kaczor (p. 59, 60, 65, 69, 73, 79) – LT/diapo.ch (p. 59, 60, 61, 63, 68, 69, 73, 79) – Switerland Tourism/Giglio Pasqua (p. 60) – P. Waterton (p. 60, 61) – LT/Maxime Genoud (p. 61) – Christian Meixner Fotografie (61, 73) – Switzerland Tourism/Colin Frei (p. 63) – Switzerland Tourism/Andre Meier (p. 67) – CIO/Lydie Nesvadba (p. 65) – William Gammuto sarl (p. 67) – LT/Alix Besson (p. 68) – Sarah Jacquemet (p. 69) – LT/Julien Dorol (p. 71)

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CONTENTS

WINTER 2023/SPRING 2024 - N° 12

TALK OF THE TOWN Lausanne serves the short food supply chain

INTERVIEW Electronic music precursor Mandrax is back with the group Shakedown

Page 6

LAUSANNE IN MOTION Top new spots

Page 34

Page 13

Satisfy your chocolate craving Page 15

How computer mice took shape in Lausanne Page 18

LAUSANNE ON THE SILVER SCREEN As the home of the Cinémathèque suisse and the birthplace of internationally acclaimed film artists, the city opens a genuine cinematic hub

BEHIND THE SCENES Inside the tropical greenhouse at the Jardin Botanique with its manager, Corine Décosterd

Page 40

Page 24

OUTING Exploring the city’s protected heritage buildings

MUST-VISITS Lausanne locales that are not to be missed

Page 52

Page 58

TA L K O F T H E TOW N

LAUSANNE GOES LOCAL Our food choices raise a host of environmental, economic and health concerns. For these reasons, people are paying closer attention to what they eat. In Lausanne, public authorities, food producers and distributors are working together to strengthen short supply chains.

For example, participatory or cooperative grocery shops have developed, such as Jardin Vivant, which opened on Avenue Louis-Ruchonnet in late 2020, and La Brouette, in operation on Avenue d’Échallens since 2016. La Brouette also offers a delivery service that puts producers and consumers in direct contact. This service, called Le Grenier, supplies seasonal products to individuals, school canteens, childcare facilities and retirement homes within a 70 km radius.

Julien Crevoisier

Locavores are people who like their food produced close to home. Over the past five years, new businesses have cropped up all over the Lausanne region, in the hopes of responding to the needs of a population that is increasingly conscious of the impact of its eating habits on the environment, on producers and on its own health.

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The Vaud capital is finding ways to satisfy every appetite, even the fussiest of eaters when it comes to origin and production conditions.

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OFFERING AN ALTERNATIVE

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In Chailly, Bio Bulk has been offering local residents a zero-waste alternative since October 2020. Meanwhile, opposite Place de Milan, Le Topinambour grocery shop opened more than 35 years ago as a forerunner in organic and locally sourced food. When it comes to restaurants, Lausanne’s locavores now have a go-to in Domani Pizza, for example, which makes authentic Neapolitan pizzas using local organic ingredients.

Community gardens installed amongst residential buildings cover almost 19,000 m2 throughout the city. In addition to the “plantings”, the authorities, aware of the undeniable demand, are seeking to develop alternative solutions to supermarkets (see also page 9). “We’ve noted that many city residents are consciously choosing to go through short circuits, so we’re trying to increase the supply,” says David Bourdin, head of the estate and heritage division at the City of Lausanne. The public authorities are not the only ones who want to seize the opportunity to support citizens seeking healthier, locally sourced food. →

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TA L K O F T H E TOW N

NO COOKING REQUIRED

For people who baulk at the idea of cooking or who like camping over the weekend, other solutions are available. The simplest and most effective is good old food prepared in a tin. Locavores will be thrilled to hear that this alternative is no longer the exclusive domain of big food companies. In Écublens, near Lausanne, sisters Léna and Pauline Maillard have taken up the challenge of combining homemade cooking using local ingredients with tinned preserves. The result is La Boète.

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Online platforms have emerged to facilitate the use of alternative distribution methods. Tanguy Ecoffey, an economist by training, joined forces with web developers and marketing experts to create a platform that would connect producers and communities. That is how Robin des Fermes got started in 2021. The interface enables consumers to buy directly from some 40 producers in the region. In just a few clicks, customers place their order, and it is off by post. At Robin des Fermes, vendors set the prices. “The idea is to allow producers some independence with their logistics and especially their pricing. Our goal is also to support producers by offering them an alternative to supermarkets, which negotiate prices downwards,” Tanguy Ecoffey says.

“Growing too fast would not be compatible with the way we operate.”

Originally from the Jura region, the cofounders decided to name their business after the word for “box” or “tin” in the Jura dialect. “Tinned meals are a bit like Proust’s madeleine for us. They used to come with us on hikes while we were on holiday. When we returned, we would always miss those tinned meals. This was an opportunity for us to launch a concept that was both innovative and rooted in our own personal experience,” explains Pauline Maillard.

Tanguy Ecoffey, Robin des Fermes

Organised around regional hubs, the first of which is located at the Tanière du Jorat in Moudon, around 15 km north of Lausanne, the platform was set up by people who are passionate about supporting farming practices. “For us, ‘local’ means that each distribution point sells products grown or prepared within a 30 km radius.” The company is hoping to attract new subscribers in Lausanne, but that does not mean pursuing the growth model at all costs. “Growing too fast would not be compatible with the way we operate.”

Papet vaudois, blanquette de porc, ratatouille, tofu couscous, chili con carne: La Boète’s recipes are designed to offer as wide a range of flavours as their industrial counterparts, while remaining firmly committed to local production. “The meat comes from a Jura farm, the vegetables from small market gardeners in the canton of Vaud, and the tofu is made in the canton of Geneva. The aim of our operation is to produce locally and distribute locally. We’re not looking to expand across borders.” → 8

Gilles Berger has been managing the Domaine de Rovéréaz organic farm since 2016.

LAUSANNE’S LAST FARMERS True to its reputation as a bohemian bourgeois town, between urban and country settings, Lausanne has managed to keep a green thumb. There are almost 900 hectares of arable land and a number of built-up plots in its enclaves in the heights of the city. Today, seven farms still exist and an eighth is about to launch operations: domaine du Châtelard et de la Blécherette, an estate located just a few metres from the city limits. The farmland has been rehabilitated as part of the municipality’s plan to bring consumers closer to producers and raise city residents’ awareness to the reality of farming.

After the demographic boom in the 1970s, which led to urban sprawl into surrounding farmland, the City of Lausanne wants to re-introduce agriculture into its landscape. “For the first time in several decades, the number of farms in the city has started to rise again. With farming activity being launched at the Châtelard and Blécherette estates, the decline has not only been halted, but is beginning to be reversed,”

delights David Bourdin, head of the estate and heritage division of the City of Lausanne.

Located close to the airport, this eighth estate was awarded in 2023 to Jonas Porchet. At the tender age of 28, this qualified farmer has already been running another farm for nearly six years. He is now looking forward to the first harvests of field crops (wheat, spelt and rye) and market garden produce managed by his partner Maxime Reuse on the Lausanne site, which plans to eventually add a pig farm. For him, being close to the city is a definite advantage when it comes to selling his goods, especially at the Riponne market, but also through a network of retailers and restaurants, which are inevitably easier to find in the urban centre. But beyond the business aspects, the young entrepreneur is also excited to be playing a part in bringing urban and rural areas closer together. “I’ve always noticed a sharp disconnect between the two worlds. You can see it for example in the way some urbanites view agriculture in terms of its impact on the 9

environment. For me, opening a farm shop in the middle of the city will be an opportunity to communicate more about our profession, to show that we are qualified engineers who obey strict rules and respect nature.”

This balance between city and country is also important to Gilles Berger, who runs the domaine de Rovéréaz estate in the heights of Lausanne (see also page 52). On his estate, which overlooks the city and features a breathtaking view of Lake Geneva, the thirty-something farmer grows grains, fruits and vegetables on land spanning nearly 35 hectares. All of his production is organic and distributed through short supply chains. In fact, most is sold at the city’s markets: Rue de l’Ale, La Sallaz and Parc de Milan. The farm is at its stand almost every day. It currently employs 25 people (8 full-time equivalents) and has just started operating the city’s only mill, recently built on site. “With the mill, we can now prepare bread that is 100% made in Lausanne,” Gilles Berger gushes.

The city’s farms focus on local, organic agriculture.

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On Rue Neuve, the family-run café Racines serves tasty vegan food. Cold-pressed juices, snacks, pastries and hot dishes are concocted using fresh, organic and local products. Catering services complete the offering.

At La Claie-aux-Moines, a hamlet high above Lutry, two other trailblazers have decided to put their love of fermented and plant-based foods to good use. In 2021, David Achard and his partner Sara Fernandez founded Ragi, a small business that produces a range of fermented foods and drinks: kombucha, water kefir, kimchi (fermented cabbage popular in Korea) and tempeh (from fermented beans).

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Vegetarian dishes are also going locavore, such as at L’Éc(h)o, a restaurant famous for its sumptuous view of La Cité and the Cathedral, but most well-known for its quiches, bowls, veggie burgers and Saturday brunches, all homemade with seasonal, locally grown or fair trade ingredients.

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ENCOURAGING VEGETARIAN COOKING

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TA L K O F T H E TOW N

Despite the exotic sound of its products, the company almost exclusively sources from local producers, and in rare cases from border countries. “All ingredients are available in the region, so our recipes change with the seasons,” David Achard explains. Today, the company supplies local shops and restaurants as well as individual consumers throughout Switzerland.

Locally sourced food has the reputation of being a luxury product. But does that mean it is not affordable? Not necessarily. In 2020, the Federal Statistical Office (FSO) reported that Swiss people spent an average of 6.5% of their budget on food. That figure stands well below the European average of 14.3% determined by Eurostat in 2021.

Furthermore, the series of lockdowns during the pandemic in 2020 and 2021 prompted many people to seek out food from small local farms. The result was an unprecedented surge in direct sales. The scramble may have subsided with things returning to normal, but the trend is far from over. ■

“It’s pretty easy to eat locally in Lausanne, with all the businesses, web platforms and markets.”

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Formerly based in London, where most restaurants include vegetarian and vegan options on their menu, the couple wanted to bring their passion for non-animal foods back to Switzerland. They feel these alternatives are not as common as they could be. “It’s pretty easy to eat locally in Lausanne, with all the businesses, web platforms and markets making that possible. However, restaurant menus sometimes lack satisfactory vegetarian or vegan options.” David Achard feels that the problem is not insurmountable, “I’ve met a lot of restaurant owners who sincerely want to add these types of dishes to their menus, but don’t know where to start. We hope to contribute, in our own small way, to making this diet more accessible.”

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LAUSANNE IN MOTION LAUSANNE STYLE, OUT TO CONQUER THE WORLD

Tiffany Bähler launched the brand of recycled jewellery In Visible.

These little brands are aiming to serve the global market and have chosen the Vaud capital as their starting point. Profiles: VANESSA SCHINDLER When the young British electropop singer Charli XCX released Crash, her fifth studio album, in March 2022, a detail on the cover was met with surprise in Lausanne. She was wearing earrings from the iconic Chains Earrings collection by local designer Vanessa Schindler. What a journey those earrings must have made, from Lausanne to Los Angeles, where the pop star currently lives, to end up pinned to her ear lobes? Quite simply, Vanessa Schindler’s talent did not escape the radar of the team of stylists behind Charli XCX. The move resonated internationally, artfully proving that social media transcends geographical barriers. vanessa-schindler.com LA BRUTTE The jewellery brand from Giulia D’Avenia started it all a few years ago. Since then, her creations have been donned by British

singer Peter Doherty and the Belgian rapper Roméo Elvis. @la_brutte

IN VISIBLE In the Vaud capital, Tiffany Bähler seems well on her way to achieving similar success with Tears of Sand, the first collection of recycled jewellery from her brand In Visible, which donates 20% of its sales revenue to the environmental protection organisation Surfrider Foundation Europe. tiffanybaehler.ch

GRAXKNITS Three years ago, Aurélie Sutter also resolved to create her clothing brand GraxKnits in Lausanne, where her pieces are made. To do that, she left her job at Balmain in Paris. But she has no regrets. “I’m based in the Parc de Mon-Repos, in the artists’ workshops provided by the City of Lausanne. It’s paradise,” she says. Far from the fashion capitals, she doesn’t feel invisible in Lausanne. Quite the opposite! “I started out selling online, and I’m in contact with people from around the world. 12

My biggest customers are in New York and Australia. And I like it that I’m not in the madness of the Paris fashion industry.” @graxknits AND ALSO... Several brands have developed in Lausanne in recent years, including Collection 66, Emyun, Nom Commun, Laboratoire and Le Tailleur sur Mars, launched by fashion designer Harald Péclat.

At the same time, Valentine Ebner, professor of fashion design at the Haute École d’Art et de Design (HEAD) in Geneva, stresses the importance of collaborations and mandates with other established brands, to harness the benefits of their reach and the heightened brand awareness that a celebrity can bring. “In 2015, Björk wore a headdress from the DYL label designed by a former student of ours, Jenifer Burdet from Vaud. Then, for her concert at the Montreux Jazz Festival in 2022, the Icelandic artist remembered this and asked DYL to style the outfit of her bandleader.”

L AUSA N N E I N M OTI O N | TOP NE W SP OTS

SHOPPING WITH A VIEW

The panoramic view is hard to beat. At Fanfan, the cosy and bright concept store that Fanny Pintat opened in July, you can shop opposite the Cathedral, overlooking the city below. You’ll find decorative items, tableware, cookery books, dried flowers and ready-to-wear clothing. “I mainly represent European brands that celebrate quality, bold craftsmanship and a distinct know-how,” the manager says. You can also come here to have a drink, for example one of the speciality coffees roasted by Vaga Bon Cafés in Lausanne, or a sweet treat that you can take away or enjoy in front of the bay window or in the small library at the back, which has the same view. Fanfan Café & Curiosities @fanfan_conceptstore Rue Caroline 7, Lausanne

Fanny Pintat opened her concept store in July.

AN EASY WAY TO DESIGN UNIQUE PIECES

The Ceramic Kanvas café makes it possible for anyone to make pottery. At the workshops, everyone chooses the piece they want to create from among the 50 models available and decorates it under the guidance of instructors. “Children are welcome from age 3. You can also reserve a room for private events,” says Charles Tercier, co-founder of the venue and of the Klayit workshop in Renens, with his wife Diana Bou Dakka. The price (starting at CHF 47/person) includes a drink and the glazing and firing of your artwork. Ceramic Kanvas is located in the Craft Factory, where you can also try your hand at woodworking at Knock on Wood or robotics at Next Academy. Fifty models of handmade ceramics and over 35 colours are available to express your creativity.

Ceramic Kanvas – ceramickanvas.ch Reservation only, Rue Pré-du-Marché 23, Lausanne

L AUSA N N E I N M OTI O N | TOP NE W SP OTS

AN INDEPENDENT AND INCLUSIVE BOOKSHOP

After leaving her career in banking, Céline Antelme made her childhood dream come true. In September, she opened her comic book store, L’Inopinée. The shelves are packed with children’s and adult illustrated stories, mangas, a wide selection of graphic novels and exclusive creations from Swiss artists. A section is devoted to disability, featuring a collection of books adapted for children with “dys-” problems (dyslexia, dyscalculia, etc.). “I’d like to gradually expand this section. It’s important to me to bring these topics out in the open, for my daughter, who has a disability,” the founder says. “It’s more than a shop. I wanted to create an inclusive meeting place for people who love comics.” Librairie L’Inopinée – linopinee.ch Avenue de Rumine 4, Lausanne

A NEW SPACE FOR SHARING

Lo-fi, like low-fidelity music. Like the quality of the old sound system at the Lo-Fi, which opened in late June in a renovated garage about a 10-minute walk from Place Chauderon. “We wanted to create an authentic bar, where people from the neighbourhood would want to come and hang out in a friendly atmosphere. We mostly serve dishes meant to be shared,” says Marc-André Favre, co-manager with Fabio Guida of this warm, welcoming place, decorated with bright colours and renovated flea market furniture. In their international, fusion-style dishes, they have opted for the short food supply chain model. And in glasses are mostly natural wines, either biodynamic or organic. Bar Lo-Fi – @lofi_lausanne Avenue d’Échallens 48, Lausanne

Open Wednesday to Sunday, 4 pm to midnight

PAIR IT WITH A LIVING WINE

“We chose the name Gala because it’s simple and festive, just like our bar and restaurant.” In September, Noémie Streuli and her partner Luca Battaglia took over Café du Pont, between Rue Centrale and Place Pépinet. New name, new setting and new special dish: pasta (with or without gluten). You can try a “pasta of the day” and in the evening “special pasta”, which changes depending on ingredient availability and the whimsy of the chef, Matthieu Gentile. “We also have a selection of charcuterie and starters, with or without meat,” Noémie Streuli adds. It all pairs marvellously with the “living” or natural wines from the Mosto cellar, which she runs in Le Flon district. Bar Gala – @bar_gala_ Rue Petit-Saint-Jean 7, Lausanne 14

L AUSANNE IN MOTION | STREE T INTERVIE W

LAUSANNE AND ITS CHOCOLATIERS

Chocolate lovers definitely have their fill in Lausanne. Did you know that hazelnut chocolate was actually invented here in 1830? Now the city boasts well over a dozen top-notch artisan chocolate makers. We asked customers to weigh in at three of them. Vicenzo Lo Giusto, 41, owner of Enzo’s Kiosque

Daniele Pannatier, 41, assistant principal at PrEP public school

“I’ve been a customer at Noz since I took over my business right nearby, 14 years ago. My parents also come here often. For me, not a day goes by when I don’t stop by here to pick up something up. Not just because we’re neighbours, but because I like the staff, the artisanal approach, and because Nicolas Noz, who is an amazing master chocolatier and confectioner, gives me incredible inspiration with his creations. He puts all his imagination into them. I often eat his pralines and give them as gifts. The top of the top for me is the one with whisky. I also love the ones with honey, lavender and rum, and I can never get enough of his caracs.”

“I’ve been a Blondel customer for 18 years, and I’ve been working just nearby for the last 14, so it’s really convenient! Their products are really high quality. My favourites? Chocolate-covered candied oranges and anything with hazelnuts. I also buy boxes of truffles and pralines to give as gifts at Christmas and Easter. I really appreciate the family atmosphere. The sales staff know you by name and know your tastes. Broadly speaking, I think it’s important to support artisans and defend their know-how. I hope that this shop, founded in 1850, will continue to exist for a long time to come.”

Noz Chocolatier – noz-chocolatier.ch Rue Marterey 11, Lausanne

Blondel – blondel.ch Rue de Bourg 5, Lausanne

AND ALSO...

Marie-Line Francey, 42, veterinarian

The artisan chocolate family has welcomed new members in the past few months, including Ackermann on Place de la Sallaz, Jorge Cardoso on Rue Pichard and ACarré on Rue Marterey.

“I’ve been buying my chocolate at Durig for five years. I only come to Lausanne every two or three months, so I always take the opportunity to stock up. Their chocolate bars from small producers in Ecuador and Venezuela are my favourites, and I also love the chocolatecoated orange pieces. Today I also bought some chocolate spread and two boxes of pralines to give as gifts. I like the broad selection that the shop offers; the products are fresh and high quality; the staff is friendly and always give us a praline to taste on our way out. It’s really pleasant!”

LAUSANNE CHOCO TOUR

The Lausanne Choco Tour offers a way to tour the city while tasting the specialities from five artisan chocolatiers of the ten participating in the event. At every shop, the ticket entitles tour participants to a souvenir chocolate and a 10% discount on a selection of products. A delicious experience that will delight people of all ages!

Price Adult CHF 29 Child CHF 16

Durig Chocolatier – durig.ch Rue Mercerie 3 and Av. d’Ouchy 15, Lausanne 15

More info

ONCE UPON A TIME IN LOUSONNA

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Open for self-guided visits, the Vidy archaeological site bears witness to the origins of Lausanne 20 centuries ago, back when the city was called Lousonna.

Temple 1

We take a close-up look at five vestiges located on the site, which has been listed as national cultural heritage, through objects unearthed here that are now on display at the Roman Museum (see inset).

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The Gallo-Roman temple This temple was dedicated to the mandatory worship of the Roman emperor and of Rome. Worshippers would use the gallery, which runs along all four sides of the building. The room in the centre was reserved for priests.

The forum The heart of the city, the main square was where all public activities took place, in particular the market. Gold coins from a treasure discovered near this forum are on display at the Roman Museum.

Ancient shoreline 4

The basilica Built as early as 40 AD, the largest building in Lousonna was used as the setting for political, judicial, administrative and economic activities of this settlement of 1,500 to 2,000 inhabitants.

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Roman Museum of Lausanne-Vidy Built in 1993 on the ruins of a Roman house, this museum immerses visitors into the daily lives of Lousonna’s residents 2,000 years ago, shortly after it was annexed to the Roman empire. Entry is free of charge every first Saturday of the month. Chemin du Bois-de-Vaux 24 museeromain.ch

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The ancient shoreline Not far from here, the excavations in 2016-2017 revealed the commercial port (on the present location of the International Olympic Committee). Piles formed the jetties. Some of them can be admired in the basin created to show the location of the lake’s ancient shorelines.

The house This large private residence featured baths and underfloor heating. Also built with an access ramp to the lake, the house probably belonged to an important figure. Sources: Karine Meylan, director of the Roman Museum of Lausanne-Vidy, Pauline Daragon, communication officer, and Marc Duret, curator/ mediator. Editorial content: Large Network, graphic design: Aurélien Barrelet

L AUSA N N E I N M OTI O N | HIS TORY

HOW THE COMPUTER MOUSE GOT STARTED IN LAUSANNE

The computer mouse is a key component in our interactions with technology. But did you know that researchers from École Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne (EPFL) contributed significantly to its development?

Smaky, Switzerland’s first microcomputer, with the Mouse 4, designed by engineer and watchmaker André Guignard.

4,500 units of the various versions of the machine were sold. “As a professor at EPFL, I was lucky enough to have both the resources and the freedom to participate in these advances and to attract talented students drawn to this innovative research.”

The history of the computer mouse began in the 1960s. Douglas Engelbart, an engineer at Stanford Research Institute in California, designed a device to control computer screen functions consisting of a small box with a button. This first device had two metal wheels and used potentiometers to measure their movement, which led to certain technical limitations.

Ping-pong ball and hemisphere In 1976, the two metal wheels on LAMI’s Mouse 2 were replaced with a ping-pong ball, which improved its usability. The adventure shifted to the next level in late 1979, when Niklaus Wirth, inventor of the programming language Pascal at École Polytechnique Fédérale de Zurich, ordered 30 mice from LAMI. Engineer and watchmaker by training, André Guignard designed and built the Mouse 4, with its more ergonomic hemispherical shape. The company Dépraz then took over production at its Vallée de Joux workshops. They were snapped up like hotcakes, especially in the United States, where they were distributed by a young company called Logitech. Since then, the Vaud-based firm has become one of the world’s leading manufacturers of computer accessories.

Over the next decade, in Lausanne, at what was to become the Microcomputer Laboratory (LAMI), directed by Jean-Daniel Nicoud, the computer mouse was to undergo a major transformation. “At the time, I was interested in making human-machine interfaces more efficient. I intuitively knew that we needed to focus on human interaction with the screen,” the researcher, now retired, explains.

Having had the opportunity to visit Douglas Engelbart, Jean-Daniel Nicoud set about improving the initial invention. In 1974, he and his team developed the first mouse with an optical encoder, breaking from the purely mechanical models available until that point. Meanwhile, the EPFL pioneer was also developing Smaky, Switzerland’s first microcomputer. More than 18

L AUSA N N E I N M OTI O N | HIS TORY

AN ARCHITECTURAL LANDMARK

The listed building at Chauderon 24 is distinctive for its turret, which for more than half a century has served as a base for Rolex signs.

“Logitech’s founders – Daniel Borel, Pierluigi Zappacosta and Giacomo Marini – successfully launched a more reliable manufacturing process, enabling them to deliver mice in larger quantities,” says Cédric Gaudin, president of the organisation Les Amis du Musée Bolo. Housed in an EPFL building, Musée Bolo is the Swiss museum of computer science, digital culture and video games. Its permanent collection exhibits some of these landmark pieces of computer history. The museum’s next exhibition will trace the history and development of the Smaky microcomputer.

The turret majestically stands out against the sky. Opened in 1909, during the major urban expansion projects that shaped Lausanne’s current cityscape, the building at Chauderon 24 is a landmark. Visible from afar, it calls out in all directions that Place Chauderon is near. Listed as a Class 2 Vaud heritage site since 1999, the edifice is the work of architect Jacques Gros. Born as Friedrich Jakob Gross, he is also famous for designing the Dolder Grand luxury hotel in Zurich. The design competition launched in the early 20th century for the construction of Chauderon 24 specified that the building should use the location “to its best advantage”, i.e., as The Swiss Inventory of Architecture 1850-1920 pointed out, including “a hotel, café-brasserie and stores, with apartments on the upper floors”. And that is how the building was used: as a boarding house for a long time, with the ground floor always occupied by restaurants. Today, Cavallo Bianco serves pizzas and pasta in a friendly atmosphere.

Musée Bolo EPFL – Building INF, Station 14, Lausanne museebolo.ch

LED signs The competition brief also specified, “It is recommended that a turret in the south-east corner be studied for the future installation of an illuminated sign.” However, this plan did not become a reality until 1960, when two large Rolex logos were placed at this strategic point. Today, along with that of the Clinique Cecil, they are the oldest evidence in Lausanne of the days when rooftop signs flourished everywhere. Except that they are not the originals: the two Rolex signs were changed in 2012 to bring the brand typeface up to date, but especially to replace the neon tubes with LEDs.

The various mice developed by Lausanne researchers. In the background, a replica of Douglas Engelbart’s mouse.

L AUSA N N E I N M OTI O N | HIS TORY

AN INTERNATIONALLY RENOWNED CREATIVE SPACE

Celebrating its 60th anniversary in 2024, Théâtre de Vidy, a built heritage site, has recently been enlarged, modernised and completely renovated.

The works included the creation of a new rehearsal studio, Salle 23. “It’s a laboratory dedicated to creation and research that is perfectly adapted to the needs of artists from all over the world, who can come here to create and rehearse their shows,” Vincent Baudriller says. “Théâtre de Vidy is one of Europe’s leading venues for the performing arts. Establishing it as a hub like this had become essential to ensure that the theatre could uphold its mission as a creative stronghold with international reach. It also guarantees that the theatre’s programming remains as diverse as ever, appealing to both local and visiting audiences.”

Originally intended to be a temporary structure, the silver showpiece designed by Swiss artist and architect Max Bill for the 1964 Swiss National Exhibition still overlooks Vidy beach. Partly saved from destruction thanks to the determination of stage director Charles Apothéloz, the original building – which became the Théâtre de Vidy in 1972 – has expanded continually over the years. Salles 76, 96 and 17, named for their year of construction, were added to Salle 64 at the initiative of the succession of theatre directors.

With the construction of this studio, they have been able to increase the number of performances, such as Le Jardin des délices by Philippe Quesne, Les Historiennes by Jeanne Balibar and Les Doyens de Christophe Honor, to name a few. “The individual venues are not blocked up as long for rehearsals. This means the theatre now has a broader offering, with more performances, festivals, debates and workshops,” Vincent Baudriller says. And the ultimate new feature is the pricing model. “We let the audience set the price! This major change is driven by our approach based on solidarity and accessibility, reflecting the spirit of open-mindedness that is so important to the Théâtre de Vidy.”

After an initial renovation in the very early 2000s, the theatre again benefited from other refurbishments, in particular the Kantina restaurant in 2014, before the large-scale renovation plan completed in 2023. “The building needed a comprehensive upgrade of its facilities to meet current technical and stage design standards,” says Vincent Baudriller, director of the “theatre by the water” since 2013. Carried out by the Vaud-based architectural firm PONT12, the work took two and a half years to complete and cost CHF 27 million. “The historic venue now has new stage machinery and 430 seats. The different spaces needed to be updated so that artists could dream up the theatre of tomorrow, while maintaining a friendly atmosphere in a medium-sized facility in line with the identity inspired by Max Bill.”

Théâtre Vidy-Lausanne Avenue Emile-Henri-Jaques-Dalcroze 5, Lausanne vidy.ch

L AUSANNE IN MOTION | IN PICTURES

WHAT DO THE VAUDOIS EAT? Vaud Cookbook (Manger vaudois) celebrates all things culinary in the canton with an anthology of recipes from five chefs. The bonus is that four of them are in Lausanne!

Gravlax with Arctic char from Lake Geneva, a dish created by chef François Grognuz for the Brasserie de Montbenon in Lausanne, is one of 25 recipes featured in the cookbook Manger vaudois.

Cédric Pilloud, in Orbe. “His chocolate-colza tartlet takes more serious cooking skills, but all the other recipes are easy to make.”

“A snapshot of what people are eating in the canton of Vaud today.” That is how David Moginier, food journalist and author of books on Michelin-starred chefs such as Franck Giovannini and Carlo Crisci, describes his original new cookbook, Vaud Cookbook, available in French and English. Original, because traditional recipes, such as cabbage sausage for papet vaudois, appear alongside more surprising dishes, such as apple and black garlic ice lollies or “Mango Tango”, sea bream with mango leche de tigre. “Unlike what the title may suggest, this is not a book of recipes from the peasant women of Vaud,” the author smiles. “In this collection published by Bergli, we present the region’s current gourmet scene and its array of dishes, through 25 recipes from five chefs.”

Local, age-old dishes also hold their place in this cookbook. An inventory of the canton’s specialities is featured, from boutefas (sausage) to malakoffs (balls of fried cheese), to salée au sucre (cream pie). And the recipes are mostly made with local produce. “Eating Vaud-style also means buying products from Vaud to cook with. We’re very lucky in our canton, because we have everything right here: fine lake and river fish, mountain cheeses, vineyards and a variety of local crops, which makes for a wide range of products. And the people of Vaud know how to make wonderful things with these products.”

To ensure a variety of recipes, David Moginier brought on board a traditional restaurant, Café du Grütli, a brasserie, Brasserie de Montbenon, a gourmet hotspot, Auberge de l’Abbaye de Montheron, and a fusion restaurant, Eat Me. “And, as luck would have it, all of these wonderful places are in Lausanne.” For that finishing touch, the author chose pastry chef

Vaud Cookbook (Manger vaudois), Bergli Books, 112 pages, on sale at the Lausanne Tourist Office (Av. Ruchonnet 1) for CHF 24.90 22

L AUSANNE IN MOTION | MARKE T

JAPANESE ART IN THE HEART OF LA PALUD In each edition, The Lausanner introduces you to a different stall from Lausanne’s markets. We met with Japanese artist Akiko Amiguet. Interview by Trinidad Barleycorn

Since 1979, the Artisans-Creators Market has been held every Friday in Place de la Palud. For the past eight years, Akiko Amiguet has been sharing her love of her native country, Japan, through her creations in origami, the ancient art of paper folding. Under the name of her workshop, Cre-Ako, she also designs fancifully poetic jewellery, accessories, boxes and greetings cards. How do you make your jewellery? Akiko Amiguet: I create earrings, brooches and necklaces in origami, which I then coat with Japanese resin to make them more resistant. I use a variety of papers, from very thin ones like kami, to make the many details in the tulip earrings, to thicker ones like washi paper. I also make necklaces with pearls and chirimen, a crepe fabric, which I fold into tiny flowers. I then sew them one by one. I love working with small things.

Akiko Amiguet sells her jewellery for between CHF 25 and 80 and also offers headbands and hair scrunchies.

What does this art form mean to you? It allows me to express myself and my state of mind through the difficulty of folding. It’s relaxing and good for your health because it forces you to use all ten of your fingers every day, and you also exercise your memory. For these reasons, they do a lot of folding in Japanese retirement homes.

What else do you do in origami? The boxes in which my jewellery is sold, cards and orizuru. These cranes are a symbol of peace, long life and healing.

What does a typical workday look like for you? In the morning, I answer emails from customers or students. I teach origami and furoshiki (technique of fabric gift wrapping - ed.). In the afternoon, I make what I sell at the market. I love it so much that sometimes I don’t see the time go by and I work until midnight. (Laughs)

Where do you buy the materials you use? In Japan. I stock up when I go home to see my family in Nara. Artisan crafts are very important in my country, so we have exacting standards when it comes to materials. By buying traditional products there, I’m sure to get the quality I want. I also like the idea that my creations really come from my home country. Even if I make everything here in Lausanne... but to Japanese standards! (Laughs)

What specifically do you like at the market? The contact with visitors and other artisans. I also like passing on my culture and talking to people who love Japan. I found it really touching during Covid, when I couldn’t go home to see my family. @creako_nippon

How did you get started? I was almost born into crafts. My mother and grandmother did a lot of knitting, sewing, embroidery, folding, and so on. When I was very young, I would watch them. Then, very quickly, I started doing it too, and it became a passion, especially origami.

Artisans-Creators Market Place de la Palud, Lausanne

March to November: Fridays, 10:00 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. December: 1, 8, 14 and 15, from 10:00 a.m. to 6:30 p.m., and 18, 19, 21 and 22, from 10:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.

“VISIT TO A MAGICAL PLACE”

L AUSANNE IN MOTION | BEHIND THE SCENES

Corine Décosterd presents the cantonal Jardin Botanique in Lausanne, a place that takes you on a world tour to admire several thousand native and exotic species.

was completely refurbished four years ago, and we now have much more space, especially in the gallery.

What are the challenges of the winter season? The main challenge is managing the cold and maintaining the temperature of at least 20°C required to keep our collections healthy. Not only do we have to keep them warm, but we also have to provide the right amount of humidity.

Interview by Erik Freudenreich

A mere 10-minute walk from the train station, Lausanne’s Cantonal Botanical Gardens conserves a plant heritage of over 4,000 plants. It is open every day, free of charge, and only closes for the Christmas school holidays. This winter, why not escape to warmer climes and explore its vast tropical greenhouse? Today, the botanist and gardener Corine Décosterd, who is the manager of the structure, gives us a tour.

What questions do you get most often from people visiting? Some people ask us for tips for their own plants, while others simply comment, “it’s a lot of work!”. One area that fascinates a lot of people is the carnivorous plants. We have one of the largest collections in Switzerland. They ask plenty of questions about what they eat and how they digest. In the tropical greenhouse, we are also finishing up the replacement of our signs, so that people can better identify certain less common plants. For example, our clove tree, Syzygium aromaticum, just looks like a simple ficus, but it’s actually a tropical plant that gives off the scent of cloves.

What makes a good gardener? Corine Décosterd: First of all, you have to love plants, nature and working outdoors, regardless of weather. You also have to be observant, for example, to pick out a plant that needs care. Gardening is quite a physical activity, so it’s best to be in good shape. What I like about this job is the contact with the earth and the natural elements. I’ve always loved walking in nature and being amazed by its beauty. So for that, the Jardin Botanique is the perfect place to get away from it all.

What’s your favourite plant at the Jardin Botanique? I don’t have a strong preference, because it’s our entire collection that makes a visit to this magical place so special. But if I had to name one, it would be the jade vine – Strongyloden macrobotys – a climbing plant that produces impressive clusters of jade green-coloured flowers. I always look forward to seeing it bloom in the spring. In the garden itself, there are two trees that I love: one is a Cercidiphyllum japonicum, or caramel tree, native to Japan. The other is a Cornus florida, or American Flowering Dogwood, a tree that has the unique feature of producing its flowers before its leaves.

What does a typical workday look like for you? It varies with the season and the collection you take care of. For the past year, I’ve been taking care of the tropical greenhouse, which features a large collection of spices from around the world. So I do a lot of watering and misting, in other words, spraying water on certain plants or roots. I also have to spot the tiny predators that attack some of our residents. When that happens, we introduce so-called “auxiliary” insects to get rid of them, because today only natural plant care methods are used. I also do all the cutting and pruning. The plants grow fast in our greenhouse.

Jardin botanique cantonal de Lausanne Naturéum – Muséum cantonal des sciences naturelles, Montriond – Parc de Milan, Lausanne botanique.vd.ch

What about the installation of new plants? We recently installed over 400 orchids. Another recent arrival is a collection of epiphytes bromeliads from South America that grow hanging from a wire or tree. Our tropical greenhouse 25

L AUSANNE IN MOTION | GA ZE T TE

VAUD HOLIDAY

Celebrities passing through the region over the past few months have also managed to squeeze in some downtime.

Sisters Awa, Sira and Binta Ndiaye (left to right) were hired to dance alongside Jon Batiste at his concert at the Montreux Jazz Festival.

JON BATISTE

The artist behind the hit “Freedom” enjoyed a long vacation on the Riviera this summer. At a chance meeting, he hired Sira, Awa and Binta Ndiaye from Lausanne to dance at his concert at the Montreux Jazz Festival.

“One week before, Awa and I were approached by Jon Batiste and his wife at the festival,” says Sira Ndiaye. “We didn’t know him. He asked if I was a dancer, saying he felt it when he saw me, and he hired us.” Even so, she wanted to show him a demo on Instagram. There he saw a photo of the triplets. “Then he wanted all three of us to come. My sisters aren’t dancers, so we rehearsed routines for their appearances.” The rest was covered by Sira, freestyling. “What an honour to dance with such a brilliant artist!”

This summer on 9 July, Jon Batiste became the stuff of legend at the Montreux Jazz Festival (MJF). His anthology concert ended with a surprising twist. The New Orleans singer and pianist wrapped up his show in the street, leading his musicians, backup singers and dancers like a marching band through the audience.

“Lausanne is very beautiful!” Winner of an Oscar, a Golden Globe and five Grammy Awards, Jon Batiste took advantage of his visit to the MJF to spend his vacation in Switzerland... for the fourth time. His wife, New York writer Suleika Jaouad, knows the area well. Her mother, painter and ceramist Anne Francey, is from Grandson (VD) and graduated from the Lausanne University of Art and Design (ECAL) before moving to New York. “We saw lots of concerts, swam in the lake, ate well and took a wonderful hike in the mountains,” Jon Batiste told journalists. “I know Lausanne too. It’s very beautiful!”

The evening was unforgettable for Lausanne triplets Sira Ndiaye, hip-hop dancer, co-organiser of the BCS urban dance battle and teacher at the Deekay Dance school, athlete Awa Ndiaye and judo champion Binta Ndiaye (see her interview in Lausanner issue No. 9), as they danced alongside the star, on stage and in the crowd.

L AUSANNE IN MOTION | GA ZE T TE

WE’RE GOING TO MAKE WAVES

NYJAH HUSTON

Launched in May 2023, the free app Docadom has helped adult Lausanne residents in an emergency (but not a lifethreatening emergency!) to organise an on-demand house call from a doctor. Doctors travel to their home by electric cargo bike, bringing their own equipment. Created by Dr Alexis Bikfalvi and Professor Éric Albrecht to try and relieve some of the pressure on emergency hospital services, Docadom is covered by basic health insurance and is available 7 days a week, from 10:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. Paediatric services will soon be available, and the system could be extended to other towns in the canton.

The 28-year-old star skateboarder drove the crowd wild in September when he won the World Skateboarding Tour Lausanne, the fourth qualifying event for the Paris 2024 Olympic Games. The American skater then took advantage of his free time to share with his 5 million Instagram followers some of the tricks he performed in the city, notably at Tour Galfetti in Chauderon. He also visited the Olympic Museum, along with other athletes, including Japan’s Momiji Nishiya, who won the women’s title at the age of just 16.

FABIEN OLICARD

From 8 to 18 November, some 100 French-speaking artists took the stage at the 34th Montreux Comedy Festival. For the first time, the event was held at the Palais de Beaulieu in Lausanne due to works at the usual host venue in Montreux. In the evening, celebs could be spotted at after-parties organised for them at the Lausanne Cocktail Club and the MAD. French mentalist Fabien Olicard, who presented the opening gala, also took some time off to savour the tasty dishes at the Auberge de Beaulieu and enjoy a “half-and-half” two-cheese fondue at the Café de l’Évêché.

The 35th edition of the festival will take place in Lausanne from 13 to 23 November 2024.

QUICK-FIRE Q&A

What is the longest bus line in Lausanne? Line 1. Linking La Blécherette, in the upper part of Lausanne, to La Maladière, right near Vidy, passing through the city centre and by the train station, it has 23 regular stops. But during weekday rush hours, it serves 30 stops, all the way to the terminus at the École Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne (EPFL), covering 22.55 kilometres return. That means it beats line 33 (21.75 kilometres between Saint-Sulpice and Prilly) and line 18 (19.51 kilometres).

TINTIN, DESTINATION LAUSANNE

An immersive 1,400 m2 exhibition at the Palais de Beaulieu uses cuttingedge technology to send visitors inside the adventures of the famous reporter.

Tintin still fascinates young and old alike, the director says, through its characters, sense of narrative and plot twists. However, the exhibition should also provide an opportunity to challenge the work. “There are questionable things in it, but leaving this record of an era as it is, without censoring it, while bringing the necessary critical distance to it, has the merit, in my view, of continuing to fuel a debate that is essential.”

At almost 100 years old, the character with the quiff hairstyle created by cartoonist Hergé has travelled to the four corners of the world, and even to the moon. But until 11 February, for the headline exhibition “Tintin, the immersive adventure”, he has chosen Lausanne to set down his (heavy) suitcases. Indeed, some 60 projectors animate more than 2,000 spectacularly sharp images, covering every inch from floor to ceiling of the 1,400 m2 devoted to the show.

BDFIL celebrates its 18th anniversary Comic book fans, mark your calendars! The 18th BDFIL Festival will be the key event in the first half of 2024, held from 15 to 28 April. Relocated to the Gare and Sous-Gare districts as of the 2023 edition, the festival welcomed 26,000 comic book fans with its new format, with an emphasis on Swiss authors.

Of course, Tintin is not alone: his faithful dog Snowy (Milou), Captain Haddock, Thomson and Thompson (Dupont and Dupond), Professor Calculus (Tournesol), Castafiore and all the villains in the story are there too. “This exhibition, currently on show only in Paris and Brussels, offers a complete experience that lets you see Tintin, his reports and the other characters create impressive movement,” says Vincent Sager, director of Opus One, the event organiser. The experience is amplified by a soundtrack featuring music from the 1960s and 70s, from Iggy Pop to Pink Floyd, with pieces by Alexandre Desplat. “As usual, we’ve added extras to the original format, including a timeline of the author’s work and life, documentaries about his work, and archives.”

Tintin, the immersive adventure Until 11 February Palais de Beaulieu, Lausanne tintin.opus-one.ch BDFIL 15 to 28 April, Lausanne bdfil.ch

L AUSANNE IN MOTION | GA ZE T TE

SWIMMING IN SUMMER AND... WINTER!

More and more beaches are popping up in Lausanne. As of the summer of 2024, two new access points to the water will open in Ouchy, in the Vieux Port and along the lakeside. But winter’s chill should not stop anyone from enjoying a swim. First tested from February to April 2023, the Bains des Rives were set up by the eponymous organisation following the City’s call for projects and met with resounding success. Some 3,200 people used the saunas, built in yurts on the water’s edge, before taking a dip in Lake Geneva.

KING ARTHUR’S ADVENTURE IN LAUSANNE

Le Chat de Lausanne L’aventure suisse du roi Arthur

The Knights of the Round Table, Lancelot, Merlin, the Grail, Excalibur: the adventures of King Arthur have captivated people the world over for centuries. Except for one: the cat of Lausanne, the devilish creature that Arthur is said to have fought during his only epic in Switzerland. Hélène Cordier, Doctor of Arts at UNIL, has made this little-known story the subject of her first children’s book, Le Chat de Lausanne, published in October. Readers are invited to explore the history of the Vaud capital in parallel.

Hélène Cordier Amélie Buri

JULIA CHRIST DECORATES TWO METRO STATIONS

The Lausanne architect has created two monumental frescoes to embellish the Vigie and Malley stations on the m1 metro line. Working from the colour palette of public transport signage in the Lausanne region, Julia Christ developed a range of blue, white and terracotta shades to create these mosaics that symbolise the movement of passengers. It took her team six months to lay the thousands of handmade ceramic tiles, one by one, on the 1,600 m2 of walls and columns in the two stations. 29

LAUSANNE EXPRESS

La Muette – espaces littéraires is a museum dedicated to CharlesFerdinand Ramuz that opened in September in his house at Chemin Davel 2 in Pully, where the Vaud writer lived for the last 17 years of his life. The City continues to honour women in public spaces: in October, it renamed eight streets and squares after women from Lausanne who made their mark on history. Place Centrale was renamed Place des Pionnières. The Pra Roman ecodistrict, built as a village in the heights of Lausanne to promote community living, was awarded the Binding Prize for Biodiversity 2023, in the amount of CHF 100,000. This national award selects outstanding projects in biodiversity achievement, mainly in urban areas. Located in the Lavaux region, the La Vigne – Swiss Wine Therapy spa in Chexbres won a Global Best of Wine Tourism award in Switzerland at the Great Wine Capitals event, held in Argentina in late 2022. In 2023, the Olympic Capital retained its ninth place in the ranking of the world’s most athletic cities, drawn up by the international communications agency BCW. Paris, Los Angeles and London topped the list.

L AU S A N N E I N M O T I O N | E X PAT

French chef Franck Pelux and his wife Sarah Benahmed fell in love with the Vaud capital in 2020. Their dream is for their daughter to grow up here and one day open their own restaurant. Interview by Laurent Grabet

Franck Pelux first became known as a finalist on France’s Top Chef television reality show in 2017. Three years ago, with his life partner Sarah Benahmed, he became head of La Table gourmet restaurant at the Lausanne Palace. He is the chef, working in the kitchen, and she is the host, working in the dining area. Since then, the French couple have enjoyed a string of successes, thanks to selfsacrifice, modesty and kindness. Their restaurant boasts two Michelin stars and was awarded a rating of 17 out of 20 by the Gault&Millau guide. How did you end up at Lausanne Palace? Franck Pelux: In 2019, a top IOC official came to eat at the Crocodile, the restaurant

“FATE BROUGHT US TO LAUSANNE!”

we had in Strasbourg. It was through him that someone approached us when chef Edgard Bovier retired from the Lausanne Palace. We thought it wouldn’t hurt to check it out. When we saw Lavaux and the lake on our way into town, we knew we were going to accept.

Sarah Benahmed: At the time, apart from the restaurant at the Hôtel de Ville in Crissier and a few other Michelin-starred restaurants, we knew nothing about Switzerland. The powerful nature, the beauty, we were in awe! F.P: There’s also a refined clientele of connoisseurs, who are lovely people and have an open culinary mind. You can find all the right products, even local saffron, and people always do what they say. It’s fantastic!

How do you feel about Lausanne? S.B: We live in the centre of town. We appreciate the easy-going lifestyle here. It really hits us every time we come back after being abroad. The beauty of the surroundings also helps 30

us to relax. We’re delighted that our little 8-month-old Siana is growing up here in a safe environment. Working four days a week, we have more time to enjoy her. F.P: Our dream is to buy a home to establish roots in the region and also one day open our own restaurant.

Where did your passion for the restaurant business come from? F.P: When my mother took over her brother’s restaurant, she caught the restaurant bug and took lots of training courses at the best schools to learn more. At the age of 5, I was already in the kitchen with her. I loved the noise, the smells, the hustle and bustle. I couldn’t have imagined becoming anything other than a chef. S.B: My father worked in the building industry and my mother stayed at home, but from age 6 I dreamt of working in the hotel business. I loved seeing my family feasting on the little dishes I would concoct. Hotel school seemed the only way forward.

L AU S A N N E I N M O T I O N | E X PAT

How did the two of you meet? S.B: In a restaurant in Burgundy, where I was doing a work placement and Franck was working at his first job. I was 16 and he was 19. It was love at first sight. We complement each other. We support each other. Our lives have always revolved around fate and love. And your career seems to have always revolved around a smooth flow... F.P: Opportunities have always come to us naturally. Right from the start, at La Pinède in St-Tropez in the summer

and Le Chabichou in Courchevel in the winter, we drew on the expertise and customer focus of our mentors. Then we were asked to open a new restaurant in Singapore. We returned to France after a year, because we still had a lot to learn.

How was your participation in Top Chef France a turning point? F.P: The show gave me visibility likened to three Michelin stars. People still talk to me about it. I had twice refused to participate, but I ended up agreeing, because I was looking for some fresh momentum.

S.B: At the time, we were running a restaurant in Beijing. We went there to understand Asian customers. We worked like robots, 7 days a week, overseeing 80 people. It was like a factory, even though our restaurant ended up being ranked No. 1 in China by Tripadvisor. In Lausanne, we totally feel as though we’re in the right place. La Table du Lausanne Palace Rue du Grand-Chêne 7-9, Lausanne lausanne-palace.ch

THEIR TOP SPOTS LE VIEUX-LAUSANNE

“The setting is gorgeous. They serve good food. The restaurant is run by a warm, hard-working family who use a lot of local products. It’s great! We love everything about it! We often go there to unwind.”

MOUTARLIER

“A must! We love having breakfast there, with a good juice and pastry. Their chaussons aux pommes are delicious. It’s one of the regular spots we hit at the weekend. You’re right in the heart of the city and life that passes before you.”

BREAD STORE

“At the weekends, we’ve made a ritual of having brunch at home, so we go there to buy our bread and pastries. It’s open on Sundays, and is run by one of the Best Craftsmen of France (Meilleurs ouvriers de France).”

Rue Pierre-Viret 6, Lausanne vieux-lausanne.ch R E S TAU R A NT

Place de la Palud 7, Lausanne moutarlier.ch CONFECTIONERY

BAKERY

Avenue d’Ouchy 15 and chemin des Eterpeys 2, Lausanne breadstore.ch

L AUSANNE IN MOTION

YOUR LOCAL GUIDE TO LAUSANNE

Keen to live like a local and get to know their favourite spots? Then you need the Lausanners – visit thelausanner.ch for the inside scoop. What’s your ideal weekend like? On Saturdays, I rehearse at the ballet. So my weekend starts at the end of the day with a Thai meal at Golden Mango, a small restaurant in the Malley district. I have a pad thai there then go for a cocktail at Nolf Bar in Le Flon. My Sunday begins with a pastel de nata from Chez Manu. Then, from 10:30 to 11:30, I’m at the Collège de St-Roch to give the Gym Poussette class. This activity is organised by the City of Lausanne for young parents who want to do some physical activity with their child. And last, I like to end my day on a cultural note at the Théâtre de Vidy-Lausanne.

The locals that make up the Lausanners community come from all sorts of different backgrounds. Throughout the year, they share their top tips to help you enjoy city life to the fullest. In this issue, we meet up with Jasmine Cammarota, dancer with Béjart Ballet Lausanne, and Luana Schoch, media and communications student. Interviews by Laurie Chappatte

JASMINE CAMMAROTA, THE DANCING QUEEN

In winter, what do you do to bring the Italian sunshine to Lausanne? I recommend going to Mauro’s, an Italian deli that makes the best pasta in town and offers several typical products such as Panettone and balsamic vinegar. Also, at Padula Food in the Place de la Riponne market, you can find a delicious local product: Mozzarella di Battipaglia. Try it with tomato, oil and a little basil. Delicious! Do you still see yourself in Lausanne in 10 years? Yes. I’d like to bring up my children in the city, because it has great amenities, and I feel safe here. It’s nice to live in a place with good energy, where people are generally friendly and smiling.

Jasmine, can you tell us about yourself? I was born in Italy and came to Lausanne 15 years ago to join the Rudra Béjart School. Now, I’m a professional dancer with the Béjart Ballet Lausanne. Passionate about art and music, and hyperactive by nature, I developed my own workout programme called Jazymoves. Twice a week online, the training helps women to regain physical and mental well-being through a mix of pilates, dance and cardio exercises.

Golden Mango Avenue de Morges 92, Lausanne Nolf Bar Rue du Port-Franc 11, Lausanne

What do you love most about Lausanne? I quickly felt at home in this city. It has lots of little green areas to explore on foot or by bike. I love walking through the Parc de Milan and the Sous-Gare district. From there, I walk to the lake’s shore, where the waves remind me of Italy. Each place I go gives off a different energy. And I love that.

Chez Manu Rue du Maupas 30, Lausanne

Théâtre de Vidy-Lausanne Av. Émile-Henri-JaquesDalcroze 5, Lausanne Mauro Traiteur Rue de l’AncienneDouane 4, Lausanne Padula Food Riponne market, Wednesdays and Saturdays

L AUSANNE IN MOTION

LUANA SCHOCH, THE CREATIVE SOUL

What does your perfect winter weekend look like? On Saturdays, I like to have coffee at the Académie Café, a cosy place that opened last summer. I go there either alone to read or with friends to chat. On Sundays, I like to go for a walk. My favourite walk starts at Lac de Sauvabelin. It takes me to the restaurant Le Chalet Suisse where I can enjoy a delicious fondue, before finishing at Parc de l’Hermitage.

Do you have any other restaurants to recommend? I love ramen. I think the best is served at Daisuki, on Avenue de France. For an excellent vegetarian wrap, made with falafels and hummus, I recommend the restaurant Le Levant. You can take it with you to eat in Parc de Montbenon, less than a 10-minute walk away, and enjoy the amazing view overlooking the lake.

Luana, can you tell us about yourself? I’m from Nyon and am currently doing my bachelor’s degree in media and communications at the University of Fribourg. Lausanne is equidistant from the two cities, so moving here felt like the obvious choice. I’m also a community manager in a communications agency and a keen photographer.

L’Académie Café Rue de l’Académie 3, Lausanne

Why did you join the Lausanners? I love creating content and documenting little things that happen in everyday life. I’ve been living in Lausanne for a year now, and joining the Lausanners has encouraged me to explore every nook and cranny in the city, so that I can share it with as many people as possible.

Photo Vision Rue Pichard 11, Lausanne

Le Chalet Suisse Route du Signal 40, Lausanne

What do you think is the best place for photography? Definitely Photo Vision. Located right in the centre of town, the shop lets you buy or rent photography equipment and has courses available. I go there regularly to ask questions or develop my photos from film. They also offer a service that sends images by email, which I like because I can also see them on my phone.

Daisuki Avenue de France 38, Lausanne Le Levant Rue de l’Ale 22, Lausanne

“To make music today, you have to be an entrepreneur”

INTE RVIE W

Stephan Kohler, aka the Lausanne DJ and producer Mandrax, is a pioneer of electronic music in Switzerland and has performed in some of the world’s biggest clubs. Nearly 40 years after he started out, he continues to write music and DJ in carefully selected venues.

You don’t actually like dancing much yourself... That’s true, but I like making people dance and I’ve always been sensitive to different types of music, which at first I thought was a problem, but then I realised it was a strength. I felt at home behind the turntables, otherwise, I never would have stayed in clubs for so long. What’s more, as a DJ, I could influence the music that was being played, rather than having to suffer through a set mixed by a bad DJ.

Interview by Michel Masserey

What brought you to the turntables? Mandrax: I was a member of Koprock, the collective that launched La Dolce Vita (ed. note: the legendary Lausanne club open from 1985 to 1999). I came along on the opening day with Francis, the owner of the Disc-à-Brac record shop, which still exists. I helped him carry his equipment. He showed me how to mix two records together to get the audience dancing. From then on, I started playing records at the club, and then at other places.

“You have to build a bond so that, after a while, everything comes together in a symbiosis around the music.”

Why did you choose the name Mandrax? It comes from Mandrake the Magician. It was just an adaptation of the name to Mandrax, to make it funnier. Soon after that were the Mandrax Dance Parties.

What makes a good DJ? In reality, I’ve never been much of a technician. But I have a musical approach, a point of view, and I’m very good at sensing what people feel when they dance. I know how to play with that, create an atmosphere and put on interesting tracks that people don’t necessarily want to listen to. You have to build a bond so that, after a while, everything comes together in a symbiosis around the music. →

What is it that appealed to you about DJ-ing? I’d been obsessed with music for years. Especially The Clash and the crossovers that followed. I started going out to wild parties all over Lausanne as of the early 1980s. Musically, it was very mixed. Later, I started DJ-ing at La Dolce Vita, which wasn’t just a rock club. All styles of music were played there. Then I went to the UK just before the house music explosion. When I came back, we started organising wild rave parties with Patrick Duvoisin, who went by the name of Rollercone. We started doing it as if our lives depended on it.

La Dolce Vita kept Lausanne’s nightlife vibrant from 1985 to 1999. The legendary club’s sign, by Keith Haring, is now on display at the Musée Historique Lausanne.

Based in New York in the 1990s, Mandrax regularly returned to DJ at clubs throughout French-speaking Switzerland.

Can that feeling for the audience be learnt? You must have a certain sensitivity and musical taste. And then you learn through failure. By trying things out, you realise what works or not with different types of music and energy. You learn to play without being afraid that people will leave the dance floor, and you manage to captivate sometimes the reluctant people in the crowd. It’s a bit scary at first, but then you figure out how to juggle with that. That’s the opposite of what you see nowadays with Instagram DJs and pre-recorded sets. It’s not something you can be good at just because you have a social media profile or because you have a technique, a computer that does everything. It’s a learning process that takes months, or even years, I think.

You lived in New York from 1992 to 2000, and from there you developed a worldwide profile. What did the city bring you? As I had started out in Lausanne and things were also going well for me elsewhere in Switzerland and in Europe, I wanted to take things to the next level and get involved in music creation. New York is the birthplace of all the musical genres I listened to, so I wanted to dive in. As the song goes, if you can make it there, you can make it anywhere. So I moved there to be in contact with all the styles of music I’d been playing since my early days as a DJ, from my La Dolce Vita years to my own parties, this mix of post-punk, rap, house and disco. It was pretty clear to me that I had to go there. I quickly caught on to the motto: it was do or die. When I arrived, the city wasn’t too gentrified yet. It was still chaotic in places and cheap, which meant a lot of musicians could develop there. So the arts scene was very healthy.

At what point did you think you could make a career out of it? I never thought it would happen. At first, I sort of tried to do it while I was in medical school. But because I was obsessed with music, it became impossible for me to study at the same time. And inevitably, as soon as we started throwing parties with hundreds, even thousands of people coming, all I wanted to do was immerse myself deeper and deeper into music, and then in production. It came to me gradually. I grew up at the same time as the development of electronic music.

Then you moved back to Lausanne. Why did you do that? I was often mixing in Europe, even though I was living in New York, and I was exhausted. Switzerland was a good hub. Lausanne was easy for me, close to the airport. I had to learn a lot and readjust to make things work here.

INTE RVIE W

KEY DATES

In the 2010s, you made a career change as a café owner, when you and several friends started running the Saint Pierre in Lausanne. That’s quite a shift! It started out as a joke with Christophe Roduit and Anne Pittet, who originally came from the For Noise Festival in Pully. The idea wasn’t simply to take over a café, but to turn it into a music bar, a scene for thirty-somethings and over, a meeting place for people interested in music but less keen on clubs. Teaming up with them also meant working with people from the music world. There’s always music at the source. That way, we can do things in a less commercial way, based more on culture or sound.

3 March 1966 “Born in Partille, a small town near

Göteborg, Sweden, where my parents lived before moving to Switzerland eight months later.”

September 1980 “Beginning of the Lôzane Bouge youth protests demanding social progress, which lasted several months.”

6 May 1981 “The Clash concert at Beaulieu. It was the first time I saw my favourite group growing up live.” 12 April 1985 “Opening of La Dolce Vita. I learnt a lot, and it played a big part in determining the direction my life would take.”

April 1992 “Move to New York. I lived in the East Village and Lower East Side for eight years, while continuing to DJ every month in Europe.”

May 2002 “Release of the first Shakedown album and success of the track ‘At Night’ in the UK, including an appearance on the BBC’s legendary show, ‘Top of the Pops’.”

“I grew up at the same time as the development of electronic music.”

December 2018 “Opening of Magneto Studio, an electro music laboratory and centre of expertise in contemporary music, where my brother and I work on our various projects.”

2024 “With Shakedown, we’re going to release a new album with more of a mix of influences, even though it will still be very electro and relatively groovy.”

You went on to work at the Haute École de Musique in Lausanne. Was that to share your musical experience? There are two things. First, I wanted to share experience, because, after all, I’d been working in the area for a very long time. To make music today, you have to be a bit like an entrepreneur. You have to be good at other jobs. What I wanted to do was to pool different training programmes into one contemporary music department. The other thing was to defend contemporary music, which is still overlooked by both education and culture.

Which Swiss artists do you like these days? In French-speaking Switzerland, there are several young artists I’m into, like Shuttle, a singer and musician who has created a whole universe around his music. There’s also the Italian-pop singer Valentino Vivace and La Machinerie, a collective of musicians that Valentino collaborates with. I also like emerging talents like Nvst and Alex Nantaya, young women techno DJs, and Geneva’s rap scene with artists such as Makala and Varnish La Piscine. →

INTE RVIE W

One of the Swiss artists that Mandrax says he likes is Valentino Vivace (pictured here, in 2023, at the Festival de la Cité, Lausanne).

And what does the future hold in terms of your work? Through our studio Magneto and the group Shakedown, two projects developed with my brother Sébastien. We’ve just released a new single in the UK on Glitterbox, a sub-label of Defected, which was our label when we started out. We’ve continued to make music in one way or another. This time round, Shakedown is making a big comeback, with several singles and an album due out in 2024. In terms of musical style, it will be different from the first two albums, more of a fusion of influences, even though it will still be very electro and relatively groovy. What about your DJ-ing? I’ve just slowed down the pace, really. I only do dates that I’m happy to do, where I know I’ll be playing in a good atmosphere before a receptive audience. ■ @mandrax007

HIS TOP SPOTS

CAFÉ

R E S TAU R A NT

CAFÉ – KIOSK

CULTURE CAFÉ

“It’s a fairly well-hidden place that doesn’t look like much. It’s my canteen, the place where I have lunch and eat healthy.”

CAFÉ DES ARTISANS

“The café is right in the middle of the city, perfect for summer evening drinks on the terrace and meals on Saturday when the market is on, and it’s run by people who are very into music.”

LE MONTRIOND

“Another very nice café, next to Place de Milan, its hill and its unusual dome at the top.”

Rue de Genève 6, Lausanne culturecafelausanne.com

Rue Centrale 16, Lausanne @ cafe_des_artisans

Avenue Dapples 25, Lausanne lemontriond.ch

Art, history & legends Visit Gruyères Castle Open every day

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LAUSANNE IN THE SPOTLIGHT

TEXTS PATRICIA LUNGHI

ILLUSTRATIONS AURÉLIEN BARRELET

From the Cinémathèque to the Manufacture, from festivals to production companies, Lausanne boasts a vibrant film scene that shines beyond the borders of Frenchspeaking Switzerland.

The Vaud capital loves cinema. Based in Lausanne since it was founded in 1948, the Cinémathèque suisse has made the city a cinematic hub. These national archives feature the world’s sixth-largest collection of films and film-related artefacts, as well as the country’s largest cinema, the Capitole, which will reopen in February after three years of renovation.

Every March since 2018, the city has also rolled out the red carpet for the many international celebrities invited to Rencontres 7e Art Lausanne (Think Cinema), the festival created by Vincent Perez, a native of the region. The passion for the silver screen is also kept strong by an ecosystem of personalities, actors, directors and production companies that have turned Lausanne into a cinematic hub. Several generations of filmmakers are hard at work here, including Ursula Meier, Stéphanie Chuat and Véronique Reymond. And while some have tried their luck elsewhere, such as actor Carlos Leal, they are all helping to raise the profile of the Lake Geneva region in international spheres. The world of cinema also includes education, notably at the Lausanne University of Art and Design (ECAL) and La Manufacture, not to mention the fact that the University of Lausanne has the only department of film history and aesthetics in Frenchspeaking Switzerland.

THE DOSSIER INTERVIEW

“Lausanne, and especially its lake, gives us a lot of inspiration”

Lausanne natives Véronique Reymond (left) and Stéphanie Chuat, photographed here in the Cinématographe cinema at the Casino de Montbenon, share the same passion for cinema.

Through the bonds of an unbreakable friendship and a thirst for creative freedom, filmmakers Véronique Reymond and Stéphanie Chuat are preparing the American adaptation of La petite chambre with a prestigious cast.

They have known each other since childhood and share the same passion for the stage. After training as actors, Lausanne natives Stéphanie Chuat and Véronique Reymond decided to take up directing. Their first feature film, La petite chambre, released in 2010, won several awards and represented Switzerland at the Oscars. Their documentary Les Dames, presented at the Visions du Réel film festival in Nyon in 2018, was also a big hit at the Swiss box office. Their second feature film, Petite Sœur (Schwesterlein), a Swiss entry for the 2021 Oscars, won five awards at the Swiss Film Awards the same year, including Best Film. You are currently working on The Little Bedroom, the American remake of La petite chambre, starring Morgan Freeman, Kate Mara and Laurence Fishburne. Can you tell us more about it? Stéphanie Chuat: It’s a long-term adventure. A very important step was taken

with the casting and the actors who said yes. The film is currently at the beginning of the financing phase, and that takes time. We don’t yet have any shooting dates.

Véronique Reymond: The American screenwriters and actors strike, and their power struggle with the studios for several months in 2023, slowed down the whole process. Are you used to big productions by now? V.R: The four episodes that we directed of the Netflix series Transatlantic definitely gave us a foothold in a major production, with an estimated total budget of €30 million. We loved immersing ourselves in 1940s Marseille, with actors from about ten countries and an outstanding crew. The experience gave us skills that will be valuable to us on other similar projects. S.C: But that doesn’t mean we’ve grown used to big productions, because no 42

matter how big they are, budget issues are always central to production, even on a series like this.

You’ve worked as a team since you started out. What are your respective roles? V.R: We work like a twinengine team. We’ve known each other for a long time, so we use each other’s strengths and skills to improve our collaboration. But most importantly, it’s about artistic creation and friendship. Together, we allow ourselves the freedom to dream up any new project,

“Together, we allow ourselves the freedom to dream up any

new project, without judgement. This freedom is essential to our creativity.” Véronique Reymond

without judgement. This freedom is essential to our creativity. We have to be both focused and flexible.

S.C: As we’re often working on developing several projects at the same time, Véronique can, for example, devote more time to writing the script,

which requires total immersion, while I work in parallel on the development and creation of current projects, such as putting together the film crew, making progress on casting, etc. But we don’t share the tasks during production, editing and all post-production. We really work as a pair. 43

Does Lausanne inspire you? S.C: Lausanne, and especially its lake, gives us a lot of inspiration. It features in almost all our films, except for Petite Sœur, which is set in the Vaud Alps and in Berlin. It appears and disappears at the turn of buildings, monuments, bridges, alleyways, etc. Lausanne is built on a hill overlooking Lake Geneva, so we’re constantly connected to its changing beauty →

THE DOSSIER depending on the season, the light and the weather.

V.R: We filmed La petite chambre, with Michel Bouquet and Florence Loiret Caille, in Lausanne. Then, for our series À livre ouvert, filmed in 2014, we transformed an abandoned restaurant on Place de la Riponne into a neighbourhood library for the summer. Passers-by regularly came to sign up, thinking that a new library had actually opened!

REYMOND

S.C: We’re very often in Lausanne, and this is where we write and prepare our projects. In fact, the city is the setting of our next series, Toxic, which follows the trail of a mysterious contamination of Lake Geneva.

CHUAT

Is it easier to shoot in Lausanne? V.R: Generally speaking, filming in Switzerland is expensive, in Lausanne or anywhere else. However, since we know the city so well, it’s sometimes easier for us to find shooting locations there. chuat-reymond.com

THEIR TOP SPOTS

Parc de l’Hermitage Avenue Louis-Vulliemin, Lausanne “We love this park for its stunning views over the city and lake, and its tall trees.”

Collection de l’Art Brut Avenue des Bergières 11, Lausanne artbrut.ch

“We like to go here for its offbeat works and the endless, unique creativity of the artists on display.” 44

Doki Doki Avenue du Tribunal-Fédéral 4, Lausanne dokidoki-fc.ch “The food is excellent, and the atmosphere generated by the team is very warm. The ramen is delicious, and the ice creams exceptional!”

A real place to experience cinema The country’s largest cinema, the Capitole, reopens in February. Now home to the Cinémathèque suisse, the almost century-old building has been expanded to include a second screening room, a bookshop and a café.

The Cinémathèque suisse, which has recently celebrated its 75th anniversary, will soon be moving from the Casino de Montbenon to its new home, the Capitole, on Avenue du Théâtre. Switzerland’s largest historic cinema, built in 1928, the Capitole has been completely renovated and extended. It will now have its original 750-seat auditorium, as well as a new 150-seat projection room in the basement. The renovation works included the installation of a lift, a public café, a media library where the

Cinémathèque’s collections can be consulted, and a bookshop offering books, Blu-rays and posters dedicated to the cinema. Renovated for the first time in 1959, the Capitole will retain its oldfashioned glory when it opens in 2024. Everything is being restored back to its original design: 1950s style, the large Murano glass chandeliers, the wall light fixtures and the bar. The WCs – the last remaining vestige from 1928 – have also been restored. But the whole building has now gone high-tech. 45

The legendary venue, scheduled to reopen on 24 February 2024, has seen scores of international stars pass through its doors, from Erich von Stroheim to Audrey Hepburn, who was accompanying her husband, actor Mel Ferrer in 1966, Anouk Aimée and Wim Wenders. The event will mark the culmination of a long-term project led by Frédéric Maire, who has been director since 2009. “As soon as I arrived, I started thinking about a cinema dedicated specifically to the Cinémathèque,” he says. “The Cinématographe theatre in Montbenon had no real →

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Lucienne Schnegg was the soul of the Capitole for generations of Lausanne residents. Hired as a secretary in 1949, she took over as manager of the theatre in 1956 and bought it in 1996. She was a fixture at the box office and behind the bar until 2010. She passed away in 2015 at the age of 90.

identity, and its neighbour, the Salle Paderewski, is a multipurpose venue.” At Locarno in 2005, when he was director of the festival, Frédéric Maire met Lucienne Schnegg, who had been running the Capitole since 1955. To attend the presentation of Jacqueline Veuve’s documentary La petite dame du Capitole, which was about

The new Cinématographe

her, she had exceptionally closed her cinema. “When I returned to Lausanne, Lucienne Schnegg told me that she wanted to sell, but with a guarantee that the Capitole would remain a cinema. Negotiations soon led to the cinema being bought by the City of Lausanne in 2010.”

The vintage experience As for the programming, Frédéric Maire intends “to maintain continuity and uphold our partnerships, in particular with the Rencontres 7e Art Lausanne festival, play heritage films, Swiss cinema and film premieres, such as the film Monster as part of the retrospective devoted to the musician and actor Ryuichi Sakamoto. I can also announce a major tribute to Jeanne Moreau, specifically as a director. These films often don’t find a venue to continue showing them, so from now on we’ll be able to play them at the Capitole.”

With a bright future ahead, having lived through the golden age of cinema, the Capitole will be “a real place to experience cinema,” its director adds. “There will always be something interesting happening there. Audiences will go there as much to see films as for the ‘Capitole experience’. Seeing a film in a real cinema that is almost 100 years old is not the same as seeing it in a multiplex. We’ve already had young cinemagoers who have come to enjoy a ‘vintage’ experience, not just for the films but also for the venue. We have a duty to defend cinema and its history, and at Le Capitole, we have everything we need to do just that.” One of the world’s largest collections At the centre of a network of national and international research and exchanges, the Cinémathèque suisse is one of the world’s top ten most important film libraries in terms of variety in its collection.

Since the Cinémathèque left the Casino de Montbenon and its Cinématographe cinema, management of the venue has been entrusted to a young collective made up of Meli Boss, Faye Corthésy, Gysèle Giannuzzi and Alice Riva. To carve out a place for itself in the Lausanne ecosystem, from February-March 2024 the Cinématographe will offer a diversified programme, a mix of new releases and revivals, independent and auteur films, aimed at all audiences, especially school groups and senior citizens. “We want to focus on films that reflect our values of inclusiveness, social and environmental justice, and that can be thoughtprovoking. Emphasis will be on mediation to make the Cinématographe a place where people can come together, discuss and share,” says Faye Corthésy. “We don’t want to be a niche cinema, we want to reach a wide audience, and to do that we’re going to implement different strategies.” 46

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The charm of independent cinemas

In Lausanne, alongside the big multiplexes, several intimate cinemas offer a rich variety in programming. Cinéma de Bellevaux Since 1959, the Cinéma de Bellevaux has been a showcase for art house films, shows and conferences relating to the visual and audio arts. cinemabellevaux.ch

On 24 October 1966, at the Capitole, Audrey Hepburn and her husband Mel Ferrer attended the premiere of the film El Greco, in which he played the starring role. The couple had just moved to Tolochenaz (VD).

On several occasions, Lausanne has also hosted the Congress of the International Federation of Film Archives (FIAF). The Cinémathèque’s missions are to conserve and restore its collection of over 10 million objects and to showcase this heritage. As part of that mission, a research and archiving centre opened in 2019 in Penthaz, about 15 km from Lausanne. “This has enabled us to become one of the most efficient centres in the world and has given the Cinémathèque a state-of-the-art facility.” The Cinémathèque holds some 85,000 films, as well as scripts, posters, publications, sets and more. Encompassing an extremely wide range of media, the collections present

an enormous preservation challenge. Staff have been working for several years to transfer the archives to digital format, with the aim of preserving them and making them accessible online. Frédéric Maire could not be happier, “Digital technology has helped form a new market of heritage films. Films that could no longer be seen, because they only existed on film, are now available in restored and digitised versions. And there is genuine interest among audiences of all ages in old films. What’s more, the Capitole remains one of the very few cinemas in Switzerland that can show copies of old films that have been restored, or recent films, on 35mm film, and soon even on 70mm film.” 47

Zinéma Opened in 2001, the Zinéma art house miniplex also offers private screenings on request (for 5 to 15 people). zinema.ch

Oblò Since 2003, the Oblò cinema has been showing documentaries, shorts, animated films and low-budget films. It also features Swiss productions. oblo.ch CityClub Founded in 1958, the CityClub cinema in Pully almost became no more in 2011. Saved by the organisation that still runs it today, the 200-seat cinema offers new films, meetings, film-concerts as well as screenings for children and senior citizens. cityclubpully.ch

THE DOSSIER INTERVIEW

Carlos Leal, between two continents For the past two decades, the former singer and co-founder of hip-hop group Sens Unik has appeared in countless TV series and films in the United States and Europe.

Music was his first love. And his first triumph. In the 1990s, with the Lausanne-based group Sens Unik, Carlos Leal released nine albums and earned five gold records. Then he set a new challenge for himself: he took to the stage in Lausanne and made his first films, including Snow White, which won him the Swiss Film Award for Best Actor in 2006 and the prestigious Shooting Star award at the Berlinale. Out of his love of acting, Carlos Leal moved to Paris, where he studied at the Actor’s Studio, then moved to Los Angeles in 2012. Since then, the Vaud native has worked with Al Pacino, Anne Hathaway, Willem Dafoe and Mark Wahlberg. He has appeared in over 100 international productions, including the James Bond film Casino Royale and the series The Rookie: Feds, Better Call Saul and The L Word: Generation Q. The American film industry came to a standstill. The unions and studios went head to head. Did you join the strike? Carlos Leal: Yeah, I took part in the strikes in Los Angeles. I’m one of 160,000 actors and other film professionals represented by the union SAGAFTRA. I was supposed to do

“The city has changed

a lot and become more

international, but for me, it retains the charm

of a small town with a

thousand opportunities.” 48

THE DOSSIER a few episodes for a new Marvel series, but I only shot for one day before the strike broke out and filming came to a sudden halt. Since then, nothing happened, there was no casting. It’s a huge loss in income, but I’m proud to be part of this movement, which is very important and could determine the future of many artistic professions.

Are you still between two continents? Yes, I’ve been lucky enough to work a lot in the United States in recent years, while continuing to work in Europe. I’ve made dreams come true that I wouldn’t have been able to achieve if I’d stayed in Switzerland. However, as far as my love for cinema is concerned, I’m more attached to auteur cinema than to Hollywood, and I prefer to have projects in Europe. I think they’re more interesting. For example, I loved my character in the RTS series La vie devant, written by Frédéric Recrosio (comedian, actor and co-director of the Théâtre Boulimie in Lausanne – Ed.). In Los Angeles, I often play gangsters or characters that are a bit cliché. It’s fun, but it doesn’t nourish me as much artistically. Keeping this balance between Hollywood and Europe, isn’t easy, and I’m increasingly keen to work

HIS TOP SPOTS

La Ferme des Tilleuls Rue de Lausanne 52, 1020 Renens fermedestilleuls.ch

“I’m delighted that there’s a growing art space in Renens. I’ve seen some good exhibitions there.”

more closely with Europe, where filmmaking is less popcorn and digs deeper.

What do you think of Lausanne? I grew up right nearby, in Renens, so Lausanne was sort of the “big city” for me. Sens Unik’s success was also due to the energy of this city, like a clique, the “Lôzane” family, at a time when new musical trends were fusing and coming together. It was a really interesting time. There was a lot of artistic activity, wild parties, art openings, festivals and small alternative clubs. It was fantastic. I’m still very attached to the Flon district, where Sens Unik’s offices were located. Lausanne is also where I began my acting career, in theatre, directed by Gianni Schneider and Marielle Pinsard. And I will always feel most at home, close to my friends, in Lausanne. Of course, the city has changed a lot and become more international, but for me, it retains the charm of a small town with a thousand opportunities. What are your next projects? I’ve just finished shooting Sisters, the new feature film by Zurich director Lisa Brühlmann, in Crete. Three months away from my wife and children

Le Café du Grütli Rue Mercerie 4, Lausanne cafedugruetli.ch

“When I come back to Lausanne, I’m always happy to go out and have a fondue!” 49

was very hard. At the end of the year, I’ll be in Lausanne to work on a play with actor Carlos Henriquez, directed by Jean-Luc Barbezat. That’ll be perfect for spending time with my family and friends! What’s more, returning to the stage in Renens is a bit symbolic, because this is where it all started for me. I enjoy acting in an American series that is watched around the world just as much as going back to my roots and working with local people.

You’ve also taken up photography... Yes, I got into it about four years ago. I’ve already exhibited my work at the Abstract gallery in Lausanne, as well as in Paris and at the Zurich Film Festival. Until 24 December, my work is on display at the Focale gallery in Nyon. I photograph the social fissures in the streets of Los Angeles, the contrast between the Hollywood fantasy made of glamour and glitter and the reality on the streets, which is starkly different. Photography is a space of freedom for me, because I don’t depend on anyone. I work on my own and decide on the artistic approach. carloslealpics.com carloslealartist.com

Le Lavaux

“I like walking and escaping out to the vineyards, especially the area above Chexbres. Back in the days of Sens Unik, I wrote a lot of songs there.”

THE DOSSIER

Cinema and Lausanne is also about... ... several films, including:

1980 Sauve qui peut (la vie) (Every Man for Himself) By Jean-Luc Godard

2005 La petite dame du Capitole (The Little Lady Of The Capitole) By Jacqueline Veuve

2013 L’amour est un crime parfait (Love Is the Perfect Crime) By Arnaud and Jean-Marie Larrieu

2021 Presque By Alexandre Jollien and Bernard Campan

2022 Ma rue de l’Ale By Jean-Stéphane Bron 50

Acclaimed directors and actors

Ursula Meier In 2009, the director co-founded the Bande à part Films production and distribution company in Lausanne with Lionel Baier, Jean-Stéphane Bron and Frédéric Mermoud.

Basil Da Cunha Filmmaker Basil Da Cunha who in 2023 presented his third feature film, Manga D’Terra, in the Locarno Festival competition.

2000 Merci pour le chocolat (Nightcap) By Claude Chabrol

Kacey Mottet-Klein Born in Lausanne in 1998, Kacey Mottet-Klein first came to prominence as a child in Ursula Meier’s film Home and has not stopped making films since. He has worked with many greats of French-speaking cinema, including Catherine Deneuve, Isabelle Huppert, Fabrice Luchini and, in Last Dance, in 2022, François Berléand.

Lionel Baier A Lausanne native, filmmaker Lionel Baier is head of the directing department at La Fémis school in Paris.

Several festivals

→ Les Rencontres 7e Art Lausanne → Lausanne Underground Film & Music Festival (LUFF) → Ciné-Festival → Festival Cinémas d’Afrique → Ciné au Palais → CinéMasala → Tourne-Films Festival Lausanne (TFFL) → Festival Cinéma Jeune Public (for children)

2014 Pause By Mathieu Urfer

Pulling stunts at school

2022 L’ilôt (Like an Island) By Tizian Büchi

In his 45-year career, Lausannebased stuntman Pavel Jancik has choreographed fights in over 120 films, including the James Bond film Quantum of Solace, as well as 400 plays. In October, he opened the European Stunt Academy (AEC) at the Palais de Beaulieu. It caters to film lovers and professionals age 12 and up, with self-defence courses also available. 51

OUTING

EXPLORING LAUSANNE’S HERITAGE Twenty or so of the city’s buildings have been awarded the top classification for importance (“Class 1”) in the list of Vaud heritage sites. Not all of them are household names, but they are all well worth a visit. Our walk takes you to six of the most beautiful sites, which make for a surprisingly coherent tour of the area, with some delightful anecdotes along the way. Laurent Grabet

“It’s not time that passes, it is us” wrote Facteur Cheval, a figure of naïve art architecture. This quote comes to mind as we set off to explore Lausanne’s historic monuments. Like the Cathedral and the Escaliers du Marché, they are listed as Class 1 Cantonal Heritage Sites but are far less well-known or visited.

▪1 We start in the heights of Lausanne towards the Domaine de Rovéréaz▪1 on Route d’Oron, where the countryside is making room for the city’s growth. Standing before the 27-hectare farm, which promotes local organic market farming and has a shop open to the public (see also page 6), is a beautiful manor house. This building was given a Class 1 rating, the highest out of 7. This indicates that the structure has architectural and/or historical features, is authentic and well-integrated into its environment, possesses rare charm and represents an era, style or movement.

“The estate surrounding this house dates back to at least the 15th century,” says Sylvie Costa, curator at the Lausanne History Museum. “In the 16th and 17th centuries, wealthy patrician families from Lausanne lived on their estates during the summer. These estates usually had a farm and farmers who grew their crops, as at Rovéréaz. Others employed winegrowers who produced Vaudois wine, which was very popular in the day and exported to German-speaking Switzerland.”

Around 1820, the owner of the land, CharlesSigismond de Cerjat, had the house built, which today serves as the offices of the NGO Mercy Ships. Around this time, he also redeveloped the farm and especially the park. “The wealthy local patrons invested heavily to make their estate as picturesque as possible so that it would inspire painters and spark the pre-Romantic musings of passers-by. So they would build ‘fabriques’, beautiful little buildings made to look like old-fashioned workshops. In Rovéréaz, there was a kiosk, a belvedere, a thatched cottage like the one Marie-Antoinette had built at Versailles, a medieval tower and a balustrade overlooking a precipice,” Sylvie Costa says with infectious enthusiasm. Unfortunately, none of that remains today, apart from the charming little paths winding through the woods. We take the path down a few metres towards Val-Vert, before catching the No. 7 bus to our next stop: château de Béthusy▪2.

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The castle now blends in so seamlessly with the urban landscape that nowadays we are more familiar with the beautiful, popular playground next door. The Court of Arbitration for Sport was located in the building for many years, but the Swiss Federal Supreme Court recently moved its offices here. The monument is not open to the public, but its grounds can still be explored freely. The site has existed since the Middle Ages. “In 1766, two wings and a turret were added. Then Paul d’Huc bought it in 1772 and finished rebuilding it. A Count of the Holy Roman Empire, he would regularly come to spend time with the powerful local families. They would meet in the salons to socialise, drink tea and coffee, engage in displays of wit, play cards and billiards, listen to music or dance.”

metro lines

▪3

THE OLD BEHIND THE NEW This form of socialising shares a common thread with our third stop, just a few minutes away on foot. These days, in the Parc de Mon-Repos▪3, people of Lausanne love to stroll around but do not always realise that the park itself is listed as a Class 1 site, like many of the structures inside it, such as its monumental staircase, gates and fountains. The Swiss Federal Supreme Court, the country’s highest legal body, sits here, along with a number

of “fabriques”, some of which bear witness to Voltaire’s long presence within Lausanne’s social circles. Around 1757, the Marquis de Langallerie moved to Mon-Repos, had the farm refurbished and created a theatre, inviting the French writer to put on a production of his play Zaïre using local actors. The small bistro now located in the small structure built at that time, Folie Voltaire, is physical testimony to this rich past. → 53

OUTING In the early 19th century, the Mon-Repos estate was bought by a banker, Vincent Perdonnet. He had the manor house▪3 rebuilt (long headquarters of the IOC in the 20th century), remodelled all the rooms and built the orangery, aviaries, farm, neo-Gothic tower and the entire rock it sits on, all listed as Class 1, as well as the greenhouses.

Our walk continues towards the old town, a 15-minute walk away. After crossing Pont Bessières, we arrive at the Gymnase cantonal de la Cité, which can be easily seen from the street. The school occupies two buildings, now listed as Class 1 in the list of Vaud heritage sites. The first is the former hospital▪4, designed by Dr Auguste Tissot. His goal was to build a hospital that would treat all people equally, but the spirit of his project was not ultimately kept. Opposite it is the Cathedral, as well as the P’tit Bar, a cute little place where you can enjoy excellent coffee, tea, fruit juice and salads. To reach the second building, we walk past the Cathedral towards Place du Château. There, to our left, we see the ancienne Académie▪5, built between 1579 and 1587 to house the school of theology. This was where the Protestant intellectual elite was educated. The building’s austere architecture suggests influences ▪4 of Bernese style.

“Even pastors from Geneva came here, until a similar institution was founded in their city. That’s rather paradoxical, given that Geneva is the Protestant Rome. Pierre Viret, an eminent professor at the Académie, celebrated the first Protestant baptism in Geneva,” says Justin Favrod, editor of the magazine Passé Simple. These days, the emblematic XIIIe Siècle bar and club, just a few metres away, is where people come to party.

A WORLD-FAMOUS INSTITUTION We reach Place de la Riponne via Avenue PierreViret. Then along Rue du Valentin, Avenue Vinet and the start of Avenue des Bergières, we come to our last stop, the château de Beaulieu▪6, where Germaine de Staël, better known by her pen name as a novelist and philosopher, Madame de Staël, lived as a child with her father who was from Geneva and her mother from the canton of Vaud. ▪6 Built between 1764 and 1776, the monument is now home to the world-renowned Collection de l’Art Brut. The works were donated to the City of Lausanne in 1971 by the French painter and sculptor Jean Dubuffet, founder of the concept of Art Brut. The museum was then created and the castle underwent a thorough renovation to welcome it. Next door to the museum, the Auberge de Beaulieu is another Lausanne must. Offering great food, it is the perfect place to wrap up our escapade. ■

OTHER LISTED CLASS 1 SITES AND FACILITIES 7▪ A ncienne Abbaye de Montheron

12▪ Abbaye de l’Arc bourgeois home

16▪ Hôtel de Ville & annexes

8▪ Château (former bishopric)

13▪ Bel-Air Métropole Tower and Salle Métropole

17▪ Church Saint-François

Route de l’Abbaye 2, Cugy

Place de la Cathédrale 4

9▪ Chapter Hall

(Salle capitulaire, Cathédrale) Place de la Cathédrale 13

10▪ Château Saint-Maire Place du Château 4

11▪ Manor House

(maison de Villamont) Avenue de Mon-Repos 3

Avenue de Montbenon 1

Place Bel-Air 1, rue des Terreaux 5-7-9 and rue de Genève 12

14▪ Tour de l’Ale Rue de la Tour

15▪ Statue (original at Musée Historique Lausanne) and

fontaine de la Justice Place de la Palud

Place de la Palud 2

Place Saint-François 18

18▪ Church Saint-Laurent Rue Saint-Laurent 13

19▪ CGN paddle boats Simplon III, Suisse II, Montreux, Rhône III, Savoie, Helvétie II, Italie II and Vevey

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REPERTOIRE

THE ADDRESSES IN THIS EDITION

BARS, CAFES & RESTAURANTS 1

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21

Auberge de l’Abbaye de Montheron Route de l’Abbaye 2 1053 Montheron

Bar Gala Rue Petit-Saint-Jean 7 1003 Lausanne

Brasserie de Montbenon Allée Ernest-Ansermet 3 1003 Lausanne Café du Grütli Rue Mercerie 4 1003 Lausanne

Culture Café Rue de Genève 6 1003 Lausanne

Daisuki Avenue de France 38 1004 Lausanne

Doki Doki Av. du Tribunal-Fédéral 4 1005 Lausanne Domani Pizza Rue du Petit-Chêne 9 1003 Lausanne Eat Me Rue Pépinet 3 1003 Lausanne

Golden Mango Avenue de Morges 92 1004 Lausanne L’Académie Café Rue de l’Académie 3 1005 Lausanne L’Éc(h)o Rue de Bourg 11 1003 Lausanne

La Table du Lausanne Palace Rue du Grand-Chêne 7-9 1002 Lausanne Le Café des Artisans Rue Centrale 16 1003 Lausanne Le Chalet Suisse Route du Signal 40 1018 Lausanne Le Levant Rue de l’Ale 22 1003 Lausanne

Le Montriond Avenue Édouard-Dapples 25 1006 Lausanne Le Vieux-Lausanne Rue Pierre-Viret 6 1003 Lausanne

Lo-Fi Avenue d’Échallens 48 1004 Lausanne Nolf Bar Rue du Port-Franc 11 1003 Lausanne Racines Rue Neuve 11 1003 Lausanne

RESTAURANT AND CULTURAL CENTRE 22

SHOPPING 39

La Ferme des Tilleuls Rue de Lausanne 52 1020 Renens

CHOCOLATIERS, BAKERIES, DELIS 23

24 25 26

27 28 29

30 31 32 33

ACarré Rue Marterey 38 1005 Lausanne

Ackermann Avenue du Temple 65 1012 Lausanne Blondel Rue de Bourg 5 1003 Lausanne

Bread Store Avenue d’Ouchy 15 1006 Lausanne Chemin des Eterpeys 2 1010 Lausanne

35 36 37 38

Photo Vision Rue Pichard 11 1003 Lausanne

Librairie L’Inopinée Avenue de Rumine 4 1005 Lausanne

La Vigne – Swiss Wine Therapy Rue du Bourg de Plaît 15 1071 Chexbres

MUSEUMS, VENUES, PARKS

Cédric Pilloud Grand-Rue 34 1350 Orbe

Chez Manu Rue du Maupas 30 1004 Lausanne

Durig Chocolatier Avenue d’Ouchy 15 1006 Lausanne Rue Mercerie 3 1003 Lausanne

Jorge Cardoso Chocolatier Rue Pichard 11 1003 Lausanne

Mauro Traiteur Rue de l’Ancienne-Douane 4 1003 Lausanne

Moutarlier Place de la Palud 7 1003 Lausanne

Noz Chocolatier Rue Marterey 11 1005 Lausanne

Bio Bulk Avenue de la Vallonnette 22 1012 Lausanne

Domaine de Rovéréaz Route d’Oron 127 1010 Lausanne La Brouette Avenue d’Échallens 79 1004 Lausanne

Fanfan Café Rue Caroline 7 1003 Lausanne

SPA

GROCERY SHOPS 34

Ceramic Kanvas Rue Pré-du-Marché 23 1004 Lausanne

CINEMAS, THEATRES

57 58

CityClub Pully Avenue de Lavaux 36 1009 Pully

Cinéma Bellevaux Route Aloys-Fauquez 4 1018 Lausanne Cinéma Oblò Avenue de France 9 1004 Lausanne

Le Capitole Cinémathèque suisse Avenue du Théâtre 6 1005 Lausanne

Le Cinématographe Allée Ernest-Ansermet 3 1003 Lausanne Théâtre Vidy-Lausanne Avenue Émile-HenriJacques-Dalcroze 5 1007 Lausanne Zinéma Rue du Maupas 4 1004 Lausanne

Collection de l’Art Brut Avenue des Bergières 11 1004 Lausanne

Jardin botanique cantonal de Lausanne Montriond, Parc de Milan 1007 Lausanne La Muette – espaces littéraires Chemin Davel 2 1009 Pully

Le Musée Olympique Quai d’Ouchy 1 1006 Lausanne Musée Bolo EPFL – Bâtiment INF, station 14 1015 Lausanne

Musée Historique Lausanne Place de la Cathédrale 4 1005 Lausanne Musée romain de Lausanne-Vidy Chemin du Bois-de-Vaux 24 1007 Lausanne Palais de Beaulieu Avenue des Bergières 10 1004 Lausanne Parc de l’Hermitage Avenue Louis-Vulliemin 1018 Lausanne

TRANSPORTATION Gare Lausanne-CFF Place de la Gare 1003 Lausanne Transports publics lausannois (tl) m1 Metro m2 Metro

DISTRICTS

TOWN CENTRE/ RÔTILLON/FLON CITÉ – MON-REPOS TRAIN STATION – OUCHY

Le Jardin Vivant Avenue Louis-Ruchonnet 33 1003 Lausanne

SAUVABELIN

Le Topinambour Avenue William-Fraisse 9 1006 Lausanne

PULLY

UNMISSABLE PLACES

The essentials on www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/highlights

Live music

docks.ch

Lausanne

UNMISSABLE PL ACES

DISTRICTS

CITÉ/MON-REPOS

It is around the Cité hill, sculpted by the Flon and Louve rivers, that the medieval town grew. Its cobble-stoned pedestrian streets as well as its monuments bear witness to this. Then, as soon as you cross the Bessières Bridge, the scenery changes completely. The Caroline district possesses a shopping mall, many bars, restaurants and boutiques. A bit further to the east, the Mon-Repos Park offers a green and tranquil haven, interrupted from time to time by the twittering of birds in its aviary.

PLACES YOU MUST VISIT

LAUSANNE CATHEDRAL

MUSÉE HISTORIQUE LAUSANNE

The Cathedral, considered one of the most beautiful Gothic buildings in Switzerland, was consecrated in 1275. Don’t miss the rose window, the painted portal, the 13th-century choir stalls, the ancient and modern stained glass windows and the great organs. The bravest will admire the panoramic view from the belfry (entrance fee) after climbing the 224 stairs. Open tours of the Cathedral and free guided tours during the summer.

Within the walls of the Old Bishop’s Palace, this Lausanne historical museum speaks of the town’s rich past and features a famous model that offers an exceptional view of the 17th-century Cité. Temporary exhibitions, inspired by the research conducted on its collections, explore the thousand years of this heritage. A novel approach to the town’s history: smart multimedia!

UNMISSABLE PL ACES

ESCALIERS DU MARCHÉ A direct but abrupt route between the Cathedral and the town centre, this wooden stairway first mentioned during the 13th century exists in its present form since the beginning of the 18th century:

MON-REPOS PARK

Open to the public, it’s one of the most popular parks for Lausanne inhabitants of all ages, with its huge lawns, aviaries of exotic birds, playgrounds and ephemeral sculptures.

roofed and winding, with a very steep cobbled street running alongside. An integral part of Lausanne’s popular iconography, it is lined on the west with a picturesque row of boutiques and cafés.

Stroll down its various alleys to catch a glimpse of an orangery as well as a neo-Gothic tower overlooking a cave and a waterfall.

PLACES YOU MUST VISIT

DISTRICT

TOWN CENTRE

This is where the city’s energy is most animated both by day and night.

From ancient buildings to trendy new districts, tread the cobblestones and broad avenues to make the most of shopping amongst major brands and local designers. It’s also the axis of nightlife with concert halls and an opera, plus bars and clubs that will keep you awake until the early hours of the morning.

PLACE SAINT-FRANÇOIS & CHURCH

Lausanne’s residents like to meet up in this central square dominated by a mediaeval church that has become a hub for music and dialogue with contemporary art in all its guises. The square welcomes every Wednesday and Saturday morning the famous market stands of Lausanne. 60

UNMISSABLE PL ACES

RÔTILLON NEIGHBOURHOOD

PLACE DE LA PALUD

PALAIS DE RUMINE

FLON DISTRICT

MONTBENON ESPLANADE

COLLECTION DE L’ART BRUT

In the intertwining lanes of one of Lausanne’s oldest neighbourhoods that was recently renovated, works of art, a Titeuf fresco, small, original shops and bohemian cafés now attract the trendy crowds. One of the trendy new neighbourhoods in Lausanne, the Rôtillon feels like a corner of Italy in the heart of the town.

It’s the town’s architectural success: this district of former warehouses that begins at the Place de l’Europe was rehabilitated as a living area with a wide array of restaurants, bars, clubs, boutiques, cinemas and exhibition spaces. A must is to enjoy a drink on one of the rooftop terraces.

A polychrome statue, symbolising justice, stands imposingly on the Renaissance fountain in the centre of this pedestrian square, where the Town Hall is also located. Opposite, tourists and children wait, every hour on the hour from 9 am to 7 pm, for the ballet of animated figures to the sound of the carillon.

Making the most of one of the town’s most beautiful openings on Lake Geneva and the Alps, you can lounge on the lawns in front of the District Court, where there is a statue of William Tell, Switzerland’s mythical hero.

Built at the end of the 19 th century on Place de la Riponne, this Italianatestyle edifice houses a host of treasures in its various science museums, such as the largest taxidermied great white shark in the world.

The town created this museum, unique in the world, in 1976 in exchange for the legacy of 5,000 works of outsider art belonging to artist Jean Dubuffet. Located opposite the Beaulieu Palace, this institution today owns over 70,000 works, 700 of which are displayed permanently, and exports its exhibitions all over the world.

EAT & DRINK SWISS

R IV A G E

L UT RY

SWITZERLAND

Grand-Rue 36, 1095 Lutry

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UNMISSABLE PL ACES

DISTRICTS

TRAIN STATION/OUCHY

The neighbourhoods located between the Ouchy quays, by the lakeside, and the Lausanne train station are perfect for a revitalising stroll.

They unveil several green oases, elegant Belle Époque dwellings bordering broad avenues and four internationally renowned museums. Since 2008, the rubber-tired m2 metro has replaced the “Ficelle” (the “String”), which was, in 1877, one of the first metropolitan railways in the world.

PLACES YOU MUST VISIT

CRÊT DE MONTRIOND & PLACE DE MILAN

BOTANICAL GARDEN

This magnificent place, overflowing with flowers and great trees, is located at the foot of the Montriond Hill, a stone’s throw from Milan Park. You can admire close to 4,000 plant species from all over the world. Alpine, medicinal, carnivorous and tropical plants have been brought together in this haven of greenery in the heart of town. The Vaud Museum of Natural Sciences organises science exhibitions during the year.

Inagurated at the end of the 19 th century, this square’s vast lawns, football fields, playgrounds, fountain and shady alley draw in families in all seasons. Reach the Crêt de Montriond by a winding path to discover a 360° panorama of the Lavaux vineyards, Lake Geneva and Alps.

Graphisme et organisation : trivialmass.com — Illustration : Tami Hopf / Hopf Studio

UNMISSABLE PL ACES

DENANTOU PARK

OLYMPIC MUSEUM & PARK

Unique in the world, the Olympic Museum forms Lausanne’s main cultural attraction. Each of its three levels is dedicated to a particular aspect of modern Olympism, largely featuring new interactive communication media. You may need several visits to explore everything. In any case, a pause at the TOM Café is welcome, with its terrace on the uppermost floor that offers a splendid view of Lake Geneva and the Alps. In the park, admire the collection of sculptures and test your speed on a proper running track. Strolling through the landscaped terraces, you’ll reach the monument on the shores of the lake.

Initially privately held, until opened to the public in 1928, this park was laid out during the 19 th century in the English fashion by a banker. Allow your children to caper about in the wild meadows surrounded by copses, flower bed displays and statues, or to play with the water from the pond. Since 2007, a Thai pavilion with a golden roof adorns this green area; it was given to the town by His Majesty the late King of Thailand in gratitude for the years he spent in Lausanne between 1933 and 1951.

CRUISES ON A BELLE ÉPOQUE BOAT

OUCHY QUAYS

For a romantic or gourmet cruise, or simply to cross Lake Geneva, the steamships of the Compagnie Générale de Navigation (CGN) are a must do during your holidays in western Switzerland. Step aboard in Lausanne-Ouchy and sail for instance to Chillon Castle or admire the terraced vineyards of Lavaux, always with the Alps as a backdrop.

On foot, on a bike or on roller-skates, follow the shores of Lake Geneva from the Old Port to the Haldimand Tower. You’ll discover no less than three major Lausanne parks along your way: the Élysée, the Olympic Park and Park Denantou, as well as the Place du Général Guisan’s rose garden that contains more than 130 different varieties of roses.

∑ √ RICHARD MOSSE BROKEN SPECTRE UNTIL 25.02.24

ELYSEE.CH Richard Mosse, Subterranean Fire, Pantanal, Mato Grosso, 2020 © Richard Mosse. Courtesy of the artist and Jack Shainman Gallery

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UNMISSABLE PL ACES

PL ATE FORM E 10

This new arts quarter, one of its kind in Switzerland, is located right next to the train station and is home to three internationally renowned museums: the MCBA, Photo Élysée and the mudac.

This new cultural platform brings together fine arts, photography, contemporary arts and design complemented by the presence of the Toms Pauli and Félix Vallotton Foundations. A welcoming and relaxing venue with catering facilities, its architectural design and the quarter’s atmosphere create a unique urban, modern and lively space.

M C B A – C A NTO N A L MUSEUM OF FINE A RT S

P H OTO É LYS É E – C A NTO N A L M U S E U M FO R P H OTO G R A P H Y

Inaugurated in 1841, the MCBA is one of the oldest museums in Switzerland to be dedicated exclusively to art. Ducros, Gleyre, Steinlen, Vallotton and Soutter are all Vaud painters who have established the reputation of the Vaud Museum of Fine Arts, both nationally and internationally. The Canton of Vaud’s artistic legacy is a fixture in the museum with nearly 200 works of art on display dating from the 18th century right up to today. The brick building with its monolithic shape pays tribute to the history of the site, which housed the old locomotives’ depot.

Photo Elysée is one of the major museums entirely dedicated to the photographic medium. It addresses the medium’s constant reinvention through the great figures that have left their mark on its history by imagining new ways of seeing or being seen, while revealing emerging photography in a privileged manner. The museum is also the custodian of a unique collection and of several photographic funds, among which those of Charlie Chaplin, Sabine Weiss and Jan Groover.

mudac – M U S E U M O F CO NTE M P O R A RY D E S I G N A N D A P P LI E D A RT S Resolutely contemporary, the mudac is interested in all forms of design and loves to build bridges between styles. Design, graphics, fashion: the museum challenges accepted notions and casts a fresh eye on art. In its permanent space, it presents the most important collection of contemporary glass art in Switzerland and Europe. As for the temporary exhibitions, they always go where we least expect them to, highlighting in turn ceramics, furniture, as well as media and jewellery.

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DISTRICTS

VIDY/UNIVERSITIES

The western part of Lausanne is dominated by the university campus that includes the University and the Federal Institute of Technology. A location close to the lakeside loved by the 28,000 students who can take part in a broad array of nautical sports.

PLACES YOU MUST VISIT

BELLERIVE SWIMMING POOL & MINI GOLF This outdoor swimming pool is equipped with large pools, up to 10-metre diving boards and fun paddling pools for children. Would you rather chill out? Lounge on the large lawns or on the (supervised) beach with direct access to the lake. Restaurants and refreshment stalls on the spot. Next to the pool, the Bellerive crazy golf is an invitation to playful relaxation ideal for families or friends.

PARC LOUIS-BOURGET & PLAGE DE VIDY Between shoreline forest and meadows, the Louis-Bourget Park is a nature park that hosts a bird sanctuary, a pond bordered with fireflies, a fitness trail and a large playground. It’s also an ideal destination for hot summer evenings: come and use the barbecues and grills set on the lawns before enjoying a game of football or relaxing on Vidy beach! You’ll also meet many walkers strolling on the pleasant path that runs along the lakeside. 68

UNMISSABLE PL ACES

OLYMPIC HOUSE With its shape inspired by the movement of an athlete, Olympic House is one of the most sustainable buildings in the world. Designed to reflect the IOC’s overarching mission to make the world a better place through sport, it brings together the entire staff of the IOC – that is 500 employees – under one roof. (Closed to the public.)

ROMAN MUSEUM & GALLO-ROMAN RUINS

The Lausanne-Vidy Roman Museum offers a presentation of the Gallo-Roman Lousonna (Lausanne), as well as various temporary exhibitions. In a bucolic setting that blends greenery, a body of water and ruins, don’t miss the walk around the remains of the Lousonna vicus (village) dating from 15 BC, one of the largest in Switzerland.

ESPACE DES INVENTIONS Are your children budding scientists? The Invention Space is a place for them! Housed in a strange building with a concave roof dating from the National Exhibition, its vocation is to arouse young people’s interest in science and technique thanks to interactive and entertaining exhibitions that are regularly renewed.

UNIVERSITY CAMPUS & ROLEX LEARNING CENTER

The university campus includes the Lausanne Federal Institute of Technology and Lausanne University, the first buildings of which were erected in the 1970s. Since then, the site has rapidly expanded and integrated buildings, the architecture of which is admired beyond Swiss borders. It’s the case of the Rolex Learning Center’s gentle undulations, created by the Japanese architecture firm SANAA, that serves as a place of learning, meeting and exchanges, and includes a library housing more than 500,000 volumes.

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DISTRICTS

SAUVABELIN/CHALET-À-GOBET

North of the town, vast expanses of forest, representing 40% of the municipal surface area, offer many opportunities for walks and outdoor sports activities.

At an altitude of 873 m, Le Chalet-à-Gobet is the culminating point of the Lausanne urban area, 500 m above Lake Geneva. Sauvabelin’s bucolic setting, with its lake, park and tower, will delight you.

PLACES YOU MUST VISIT

AQUATIS AQUARIUM-VIVARIUM This innovative architectural complex, easily reached by metro, integrates the largest freshwater aquarium in Europe and the Lausanne Vivarium.

Follow the discovery trail that includes 50 tanks displaying about 20 aquatic ecosystems from across the five continents.

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HERMITAGE COUNTRY ESTATE & FOUNDATION

CHALET-À-GOBET & MAUVERNAY SPORTS CENTRE This village includes a hotel school, a ski slope, an equestrian centre as well as a golf course. Its sports centre offers running and mountainbike trails (changing showers available).

In the centre of the Hermitage Estate sits an imposing mansion built around 1850 and which today houses a famous museum of paintings. In the English-style gardens populated with majestic trees, benches invite you to contemplate a unique panorama of the old town, the lake and the mountains.

SAUVABELIN PARK & LAKE

SAUVABELIN TOWER

Created in 1888 in the heart of an oak forest, the Sauvabelin lake rapidly became a soughtafter strolling area for Lausanne people. You can rent a small boat during the summer or walk along its shores. The surrounding park is very popular with children, who discover unusual animals such as woolly pigs, grey cows, booted goats and mirror sheep.

This tower built of solid, local wood in a spirit of environmental respect is one of the many destinations for a hike above the town since 2003. Enjoy the 360° view from a height of 35 metres after climbing the 151 steps of its double spiral staircase. Free access.

l a i c e p O ur s s offer

Foody tours

Push open the doors of our Lausanne culinary artisans for a unique experience

Guided tours

Walk the streets of the town to discover its historical or wine-growing heritage

Lausanne City Pass

Treasure hunt

Solve riddles to discover the city in an original way with family or friends

Discover the highlights in Lausanne and the area at an unbeatable price

Around wine

Spend a moment out of time at Lavaux, a UNESCO World Heritage site

Book your experience

www.lausanne-tourisme.ch

@thelausanner

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L AUSA N N E TR A NSPORT CA RD A card that offers you access to public transport and discounts!

If you’re staying in accommodation that pays the overnight tourist tax, you can freely use public transport (bus, train, metro) during your whole stay (maximum 15 days) in Lausanne and its surroundings with your Lausanne Transport Card. But that’s not all! Thanks to our partners, you benefit from exceptional discounts and advantages from many museums, shops and other leisure activity providers.

www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/ltc

Train Bus

Metro

ZO N E O F THE PUBLIC TR ANSPORT N E T W O R K VA L I D FO R H O L D E R S O F T H E L AU S A N N E TR ANSPORT CARD

CHESEAUXSUR-LAUSANNE

VUFFLENSLA-VILLE

15 BUSSIGNY

CHALETÀ-GOBET

ROMANELSUR-LAUSANNE

GRAND-MONT

ÉPALINGES

RENENS

PRILLY-MALLEY EPFL MALLEY

VERS-CHEZLES-BLANC

CHAUDERON

CROISETTES SALLAZ

CHUV

LAUSANNE-FLON

PULLY-NORD

OUCHY-OLYMPIQUE

PULLY

LAKE GENEVA

SAVIGNY

LA CONVERSION

LUTRY

BOSSIÈRES

VILLETTE

GRANDVAUX

CULLY

ÉPESSES

G E N E R A L IN FORM ATION Here are useful contact details to keep at hand and make your stay easier. You have access to all the necessary information at our two information offices.

EMERGENCY PHONE NUMBERS

CURRENCY Swiss franc (CHF) 1 euro = 1 CHF (indicative rate, base 2023)

112 International number for emergency calls

117 Police (crimes and theft, emergencies only) 118 Fire brigade

EXCHANG E OFFICE Lausanne train station

140 Roadside assistance service

Monday to Friday: 8 am → 6.30 pm; Saturday: 9 am → 6 pm; Sunday: 10 am → 6 pm

144 Ambulance

USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS

POST OFFICES

+41 21 314 11 11 CHUV Centre Hospitalier Universitaire Vaudois

IN THE TOWN CENTRE Pl. Saint-François 15 +41 848 888 888 Monday to Friday: 8 am → 6.30 pm; Saturday: 8 am → 11.30 am

+41 848 133 133 Centre for on-call doctors 1811 Directory enquiry services 162 Swiss weather forecast

163 Road traffic information

AT T H E T R A I N S TAT I O N Pl. de la Gare 1/Av. de la Gare 43 bis +41 848 888 888 Monday to Friday: 8 am → 6.30 pm; Saturday: 8 am → 4 pm; Sunday: 3.30 pm → 6.30 pm

LOST PROPERT Y OFFICE L AU S A N N E P O L I C E S TAT I O N Rue du Petit-Chêne 36 +41 21 315 33 85

L AU S A N N E R I P O N N E 4, place de la Riponne +41 848 888 888 Monday to Friday: 9 am → 6 pm; Saturday: 9 am → 1 pm www.poste.ch/en

(phone enquiries in the mornings only: 8.30 am → 11.30 am) Monday to Friday: 1 pm → 4 pm www.lausanne.ch/en U S E F U L M O B I L E A P P L I C AT I O N S Find here the applications that are useful for your stay in Lausanne. Calendar, hotels, self-service bike rentals, public transport and much more! M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N AT: www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/mobile-apps

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(RE) DISCOVER THE ADDRESSES OF

L AUSA N N E TO U R I S M E

Two information and welcome centres of the Tourist Office are at your service a stone’s throw from the train station and at the Cathedral. You will find a host of services at your disposal there – public transport passes, maps, recommended routes and excursions from Lausanne, various brochures, help and emergency services, etc. – as well as culture and leisure news. P U B L I C I N F O R M AT I O N O F F I C E S

T O W N O F L AU S A N N E – I N F O C I T É

T O U R I S T I N F O R M AT I O N P O I N T Lausanne Cathedral

Place de la Palud 2 1002 Lausanne

T O U R I S T I N F O R M AT I O N C E N T E R Av. Louis-Ruchonnet 1 Close to the CFF station

Find timetables on: www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/en/tourism-office

Information point for the town of Lausanne, the “info cité” office’s mission is to inform, orient and guide Lausanne people and passing guests.

Monday to Friday: 8 am → 5 pm +41 21 315 25 55 www.lausanne.ch infocite@lausanne.ch

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A TRAVEL JOURNAL FOR YOUR FAMILY VISIT TO LAUSANNE To entertain your children while you visit the town, Lausanne Tourisme offers them a Travel Journal packed with fun and creative activities. Come and pick up a Travel Journal for each of your children aged 5 to 12 in one of our tourist information offices. www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/en/travel-journal

A leisure offer accessible to all

ACTIVITIES FOR THOSE ON TIGHT BUDGETS The City of Lausanne puts on various activities for those on a modest budget. Here are a few examples of outings to be enjoyed as a family or among friends.

FREE OF CHARGE • Vidy Bowl for skaters

• Many multi-coloured birds at the Mon-Repos Park aviary • Free entry to most museums on the first Saturday of the month

• Mountain biking at Chalet-à-Gobet

• Climbing the Sauvabelin Tower

BETWEEN CHF 1 AND CHF 9 • Climbing the Cathedral tower (from CHF 1 to CHF 5) • Flon bowling alley (between CHF 5.50 and CHF 9 per person)

• Bellerive minigolf (free up to age 4, CHF 6 until age 16, then CHF 8)

• Vidy miniature train (CHF 3 per journey)

Tourist information: close to the train station, Cathedral

+41 21 613 73 73

info@lausanne-tourisme.ch

Lausanne Insider Tips

Find out more about the Lausanners and their insider tips on www.thelausanner.ch

PLATEFORME 10 ARTS DISTRICT, LAUSANNE

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